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Report on the Textiles from Burgos Cathedral - Middelalder Centret

Report on the Textiles from Burgos Cathedral - Middelalder Centret

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Fig. 2<br />

Inv. No 00653742 and<br />

00651983. Photograph:<br />

C<strong>on</strong>cha Herrero Carretero.<br />

to make a double band of half that width. N<strong>on</strong>e of<br />

<strong>the</strong> fragments can be characterized as veils but are<br />

instead various types of head- and chinbands.<br />

All of <strong>the</strong> examined pieces are made of silk but in<br />

different quality, thickness of thread, density and<br />

tightness. All pieces have various types of ruffled<br />

and pleated edges.<br />

Fig. 1-2<br />

The pieces may overall be grouped as four different<br />

types according to shape and style of <strong>the</strong> frilled<br />

edges:<br />

Type 1: L<strong>on</strong>g narrow pleats al<strong>on</strong>g <strong>the</strong> selvedges<br />

This type is characterized by rows of l<strong>on</strong>g, narrow<br />

pleats formed as part of <strong>the</strong> fabric. The pleats are<br />

neatly made an very even in appearance. Most have<br />

sharp, folded pleats c. 4-5mm deep. The width of<br />

<strong>the</strong> selvedges with this type of pleats is c. 1,5 to 2<br />

cm with a midsecti<strong>on</strong> of about 10-12 cm.<br />

Type 2: Overall pleated surface of fabric<br />

This type of textiles has <strong>the</strong> overall appearance of<br />

13<br />

having been pleated in small, sharps pleats (knife<br />

pleats) <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> entire width of <strong>the</strong> fabric and not just<br />

al<strong>on</strong>g <strong>the</strong> selvedges.<br />

Type 3: Sharp pleats <strong>on</strong> additi<strong>on</strong>al bands<br />

This type has additi<strong>on</strong>al pleated bands sewn to <strong>the</strong><br />

edge of <strong>the</strong> fabric. These bands are thicker and<br />

more coarse than <strong>the</strong> fabrics <strong>the</strong>y aresewn to. The<br />

aditi<strong>on</strong>al bands are c. 2 cm in width.<br />

The bands are folded in sharp, crisp pleats forming<br />

a zigzag-shaped appearance.<br />

Group 4: Small ruffles<br />

This type has small, rounded ruffles al<strong>on</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />

selvedges formed as part of <strong>the</strong> fabric. In this group<br />

<strong>the</strong> ruffles are tiny and appears as a narrow edge of<br />

frills. The width of <strong>the</strong> ruffles edges are no more<br />

than 5-7mm with a midsecti<strong>on</strong> of c. 10-12cm.<br />

Some of <strong>the</strong> fragments of this type have<br />

characteristics of more than <strong>on</strong>e type, for instance<br />

two of <strong>the</strong> fragments had features of both Type 1<br />

and 3. In some cases it was difficult to determine if<br />

some of <strong>the</strong> pieces of Type 1 were actually Type 2 as

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