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Report on the Textiles from Burgos Cathedral - Middelalder Centret

Report on the Textiles from Burgos Cathedral - Middelalder Centret

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<str<strong>on</strong>g>Report</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Textiles</strong> in Patrim<strong>on</strong>io Naci<strong>on</strong>al,<br />

Palacio Real:<br />

Textile Analysis<br />

From textile studies in Palacio Real, Madrid, 4-6.9.2006<br />

Marianne Vedeler, Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo<br />

On September 4-6th, 2006, a simple tecniqual<br />

analysis of silk bands with frilled edges was<br />

undertaken by Marianne Vedeler, under supervisi<strong>on</strong><br />

of c<strong>on</strong>servator C<strong>on</strong>cha Herrero Carretero. Camilla<br />

Luise Dahl and myself were shown 11 textiles <strong>from</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> m<strong>on</strong>astery Santa Maria la Real de Huelgas in<br />

<strong>Burgos</strong>. The bands have most likely been used for<br />

head dressing, and sec<strong>on</strong>darily as part of <strong>the</strong> burial<br />

costume. The bands are primarily made of silk,<br />

some of <strong>the</strong>m with elements of metalwork. Four of<br />

<strong>the</strong> presented textiles where examined in regard to<br />

textile analysis by me: No 653742, No 653737, No<br />

651983 and No 651981.<br />

No 653742<br />

From unidentified grave in <strong>the</strong> m<strong>on</strong>astery Santa<br />

María la Real de Huelgas, <strong>Burgos</strong>.<br />

Material: Silk<br />

1<br />

A band with frilled edges. Length: 267 cm, width:<br />

13 cm. Edges with thicker warp in 1, 5-1, 6 cm<br />

width <strong>from</strong> each selvedge. The textile is pleated in<br />

both sides. A ribb<strong>on</strong> is sewn to <strong>on</strong>e of <strong>the</strong> bands<br />

selvages. The ribb<strong>on</strong> is also pleated, but here <strong>the</strong><br />

pleating is tighter than in <strong>the</strong> primary band. The<br />

ribb<strong>on</strong> is probably pleated separately form <strong>the</strong> main<br />

band.<br />

There are five stripes in red, brown and white in <strong>on</strong>e<br />

end of <strong>the</strong> band.<br />

Fig. 1<br />

Central part of <strong>the</strong> band:<br />

Golden silk made in tabby, z/z-spun, with 36-38/24-<br />

26 threads pr cm in warp and weft. The thickness of<br />

<strong>the</strong> threads are approximately 0, 1-0, 2 mm in both<br />

thread systems.<br />

Fig. 2<br />

Fig. 1<br />

No 653742. A band with<br />

frilled edges. Length: 267<br />

cm, width: 13 cm. Edges<br />

with thicker warp in 1,<br />

5-1, 6 cm width <strong>from</strong> each<br />

selvedge.<br />

Photograph: Marianne<br />

Vedeler.

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