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featUre Cuisine
Although I was animatedly welcomed to the
‘kingdom’ and gestured towards my private
table, I was immediately distracted by the
hypnotic beat of a djembe drum and began to follow
its reverberations like a rat after the Pied Piper.
After a venture through a host of trees bearing
myriads of little lights, I found more than just
my elusive djembe. A whole performing troupe,
complete with actors, singers, musicians and
even an acrobat, delighted me with a wonderfully
resurrected version of an old Xhosa folk song. I
spent a good half hour watching the shadows of
their movements around a fire that only an African
could ignite. It was only when the spectacle calmed
to the soothing voice of a single singer that I
remembered that I had come here to eat.
Once I finally sat down on my private dining
platform in the trees (of course I first had to survey the view as if I
were Mufasa surveying his kingdom), I was delighted by another
sensual experience as my hands were gently washed in rosewater and
my face painted in traditional Xhosa and Zulu celebratory custom.
I was finally encouraged to make my way to the generous buffet
spread, and I soon saw why. The fact that it was a bitterly cold night
did not keep the crowds away from the big-top style tented outdoor
venue that manages to keep the cold at bay with its fires, cozy blankets
and the pure energy of its staff. Luckily the buffet that was feeding
so many never seemed to run dry, as each time I saw a dish reach the
After a few indulgent glasses of the Spier Estate’s own
rich Merlot, I sat back and reveled in the spirit of Africa
that was unfolding all around me.
bottom of its pot, more of the freshly-prepared creation was generously
ladled in. It’s no wonder each buffet station has its own residing chef!
I was guided from station to station by Head Chef Colin Oldham,
who handed me over with dismay to his deputy, Mavis Goba, on
hearing the evidently disappointing news of my vegetarian habits.
Originally from Idutywa in the Eastern Cape, Mavis is a beautiful and
warm woman who fits her surroundings at Moyo perfectly. She loves
to cook traditional African dishes for visiting foreigners and laments
the fact that many restaurants call themselves ‘African’ when they
in fact serve more Malay-type dishes. Although she is very proud of
her traditional oxtail or ‘wors’ (sausage) with mielie pap and tomato
and onion sauce, she carefully explains each of the many colorful
vegetarian salad and main course offerings to me. I finally settle on
a vegetable briyani with an aubergine and spinach side. This was a
winner for me, with the steak and calamari proving to be favorites
amongst the other diners, one of whom excitedly declared her meal
to be ‘the best calamari in Africa!’ Mavis, who also has a passion for
experimenting with seasonal seafood dishes, was duly chuffed by this.
I must admit, though, that the dessert station was by far my favorite
stop. I ploughed my way through most of the treats on offer, from
the traditional Afrikaans ‘koeksister’ (dough dipped in syrup) to the
16
standards like pecan nut pie and chocolate brownies to the crowning
glory – the Moyo Mojo upside-down malva pudding. While I did
appreciate Mavis’s musings on how she likes to ‘play around’ with the
fruits of the season, I must say I went straight for the decadence.
After a few indulgent glasses of the Spier Estate’s own rich Merlot,
I sat back and reveled in the spirit of Africa that was unfolding all
around me. Entertainers at a table behind me were trying to teach
a group of Jamaicans how to ‘click the right way’, my host was filling
me in on the developments in his home country of Zimbabwe, a
German diner was learning the ins and outs of the Cape township of
Khayelitsha and a brave South African guest was called up to stage to
partake in the virtuosic percussion presentation unfolding beneath top
hats and sequins on the stage.
Ah, Africa. Energetic, incomprehensible, magical Africa. I really did
not expect to find it at a restaurant.
For more information or to book, visit www.moyo.co.za or contact
Moyo Stellenbosch directly on +27 21 809 1133
Oh, and here’s a little starter to get you in the mood.
If you are not planning a visit to Stellenbosch or
even the Western Cape, do not despair! There is an
array of Moyo restaurants throughout South Africa,
with each one presenting its own unique energy
and surprises.
GAUTENG KWAZULU-NATAL WESTERN CAPE
Zoo Lake
Johannesburg
+27 11 646 0058
Melrose Arch
Johannesburg
+27 11 684 1477
Fountains
Pretoria
+27 12 341 5729
uShaka
Durban
+27 31 332 0606
uShaka Pier Bar
Durban
+27 31 332 0606
Blouberg
Cape Town
+27 21 554 9671
Spier Estate
Stellenbosch
+27 809 1133