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Concierge close up: Nha Trang, Vietnam
A bustling city with a long stretch of beachfront with mountain peaks to the west as a dramatic backdrop,
Nha Trang is no longer the idyllic, deserted hideaway it once was; instead, it’s a booming international
and domestic tourist destination. Older hotels share the waterfront with an assortment of flashy Westernstyle
joint-venture establishments, and petty crime is on the rise. But the beach retains its charms: swarms
of high school students bike to and from classes, and hordes of teenagers play soccer on the white sand.
Recreational activities are mostly water-based, include swimming, scuba diving, snorkeling, sailing, and
excursions to neighboring Mieu, Tam, and Monkey islands—lush enclaves with isolated beaches and
groves of palm trees.
Sights
The easiest way to get around Nha Trang is by
bicycle or cyclo (bicycle rickshaw). For trips
outside town, hire a car and driver. It’s also
possible—though not advisable—to rent a
motorbike (with or without a driver).
Alexander Yersin Museum. ($) Exhibits here
are dedicated to one of the most respected foreigners
in Vietnam’s modern history. A close
associate of Louis Pasteur, Swiss-born Dr. Alexander
Yersin arrived in Vietnam in 1891 to
found the Pasteur Institute in Vietnam, which
shares its premises with the museum (often
simply called the Pasteur museum) and still
provides public health services. Yersin learned
Vietnamese and spent the rest of his life in
the country. He is credited with introducing
rubber and quinine production to Vietnam,
encouraging the development of Dalat in the
central highlands, developing animal vaccines,
and advancing bubonic plague research. The
museum highlights his career and offers guided
tours in English and French as well as Vietnamese.
E10 Tran Phu St.
Nha Trang
Le Hong
Phong Phong
Phuong Sai
Long Son
Pagoda
TO
HO CHI MINH CITY
Hon Chong Promontory. ($) On the same side
of the river as the Po Nagar Cham Towers,
this overlook provides good views of the coastline
and the surrounding islands. Climb up
the promontory for a view of Tortoise Island
(Hon Rua) as well as the city, both to the northeast. Look
northwest to see Fairy Mountain (Nui Co Tien), said to
resemble a reclining fairy. To get here from the Po Nagar
ruins, head north on 2 Thang 4 St. (the name of the street,
not an address) and take a right on Nguyen Dinh Chieu St.
EAbout ¾ km (½ mi) from intersection of Nguyen Dinh
Chieu and 2 Thang 4 Sts.
Long Son Pagoda. At this beautiful pagoda built in the late
19th century and reconstructed a number of times since, a
giant, serene white Buddha beckons visitors up a flight of
stairs, at the top of which is a panoramic view of Nha Trang.
Le Hong Phong
Cao Ba Quat
Van Don
River
Cai
Long-distance
Bus Station
Yersin
Thai Nguyen
Train
Station
Tran Nhat Duat
Qui Cap
Tran
Long Thanh
Gallery
Hong Bang
Nguyen Trai
Ngo Ngo Gia Gia Tu Tu
2 Thang 4
Local Bus
Station
Quang Trung
Thong Nhat
Sinh Trung
Hoang Van Thu
Le Thanh Phuong
Ly Thanh Ton
Nha Trang
Cathedral
Tran Nguyen Han
Vietcom
Bank
Le Qui Don
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai
0
0
Ng.
Hong Son
Ng. Thai Hoc
Cai River
Ng.
Cong Tru
Phan Boi Chau
Dinh Phung
Phan Chu Trinh
Yersin
Trong
Tu Ly
1/4 km
Central Market
Le Thanh Ton
To Hien Thanh
1/4 mi
Binh Khiem
Nguyen
Le Loi
South China Sea
The entrance to the pagoda itself is below. Resident monks
happily give guided tours, sometimes in English, of the main
sanctuary. The pagoda attracts destitute beggars as well as
scammers who claim to work for the monks, aiming to coax
money from tourists by any means necessary, so be on guard.
To reach the site from town, follow Yersin Street—by foot,
bike or motorbike—inland about 2 km (1 mi) from the coast.
At No. 15 on 23 Thang 10 St. (called Thai Nguyen St. as you
get closer to the water), make a right (continuing inland).
>EAbout 550 yards west of railroad station, opposite No.
15 on 23 Thang 10 St.
Hai Hai Ba Trung
Hoang Thoa Tham
Pasteur
Nguyen Chanh
Nguyen Thien Thuat
Tran Hung Dao
Hung Vuong
Biet Thu
Post Office
Alexander
Yersin
Museum
Tran Phu
Tran Phu
War
Memorial
National
Oceanographic
Museum
Vinpearl
Cable Car
Hon Chong
Promontory
Po Nagar
Cham Towers
Thap Ba Hot
Spring Center
KEY: $ Admission charged E Physical address s Mailing address

National Oceanographic Museum. ($) The main attraction
here is the aquarium with a full range of colorful reef fish,
sharks, turtles, and other tropical species. The museum section
also includes exhibits of stuffed birds and sea mammals,
plus thousands of marine specimens in jars. Some signage is
in English. E1 Cau Da St., just north of the Cau Da harbor
entrance at the south end of town .
Nha Trang Cathedral. Enjoy good views of the city from
outside this hilltop Catholic shrine. The French Gothic style
church completed in 1933 features vibrant modern Vietnamese
lighting touches inside. E Intersection of Nguyen Trai
and Thai Nguyen Sts.
Po Nagar Cham Towers. ($) The Nha Trang Huu Duc, also
known as the Mother Goddess or Lady of the City Towers,
are among the best-preserved Cham ruins in Vietnam.
Hindu worship at this site dates back to the 2nd century;
the present buildings were constructed between the 7th and
12th centuries. Today, Po Nagar remains an active shrine
for Vietnam’s minority Cham community and for Chinese
and Vietnamese Buddhists. Of the original eight towers, four
remain in various states of preservation. The North Tower
(Thap Chinh), built during King Harivarman I’s reign in ad
817, originally housed a linga (phallic stone). After the linga
was stolen and replaced, the statue of the goddess Uma seen
today was finally substituted for it. The towers are a long
and rather unpleasant walk from the center of town, so take
a cyclo or a motorbike. Be prepared for swarms of hawkers
congregating at the site. EOn north side of Cai River over
Ha Ra and Xom Bong Bridges.
Thap Ba Hot Spring Center. ($) If your idea of relaxation
involves soaking in a mineral mud bath, head to this hot
spring on the northern outskirts of town. In addition to mud
baths, there are hot mineral pools and a mineral swimming
pool with a thermal waterfall. Choose to soak solo, with a
partner, or in a group. A canteen and guest house are available
for longer stays. ECell 25, Ngoc Son, Ngoc Hiep Ward,
about 3km (2 mi) from Nha Trang’s center.
Vinpearl Cable Car. ($) You’ll find a five-star resort and a
small amusement park on the island of Hon Tre (Bamboo
Island), both carrying the Vinpearl brand. The world’s longest
cable car over open sea provides spectacular views of
the harbor, outlying islands, Nha Trang, and surrounding
mountains. Buy a ticket for the cable-car trip only, or get
it included in an admission ticket to the amusement park,
where waterslides are the top attractions. EDepartures just
south of Cau Da Harbor .
Nearby Sights
No visit to Nha Trang is complete without a boat trip to the
surrounding scenic islands, such as Hon Mieu (Tri Nguyen
Island), Hon Mun, and Hon Tam. Hon Mieu, often advertised
as an “outdoor aquarium,” is really an important commercial
aquaculture center, with more than 40 marine species
bred here. Boat trips can be arranged through local hotels
and travel agencies or directly at the port on the south end
of town.Hon Mun (Ebony Island) and Hon Mot have the best
snorkeling.
About 16 km (10 mi) outside of Nha Trang on Highway
1 is Monkey Island (Hon Lao), named for its wild macaques
now inured to handouts from visitors (and thefts of their
sunglasses, bags, and other items). To get here, hire a car
and driver or take a 15-minute boat ride from the pier in
the south part of town. Many tourists visit Monkey Island
as part of a day-trip to the beach at Doc Let.
A unique option for exploring the islands is chartering
a sailing yacht with a captain and crew from the Nha Trang
Sailing Club (E72-74 Tran Phu St.). For landlubbers, the
club offers one of Nha Trang’s best beaches for loafing plus
restaurants serving Vietnamese, Indian, Italian, and international
dishes, all available on the alluring beachfront terrace
and all open to the public.
Shopping
Nha Trang’s souvenir shops are mainly clustered around the
intersection of Tran Quang Khai and Hung Vuong streets.
Bargaining is part of the shopping experience.
To buy something unique—or just to look—visit Long Thanh
Gallery (E126 Hoang Van Thu St.), showing the work of
friendly and talented local photographer Long Thanh. Since
1964, Long has specialized in stunning black and white images
of Vietnamese daily life.
Activities
Beaches. Forty kilometers (25 mi) north of town is relatively
isolated and largely undeveloped Doc Let Beach. The beach
is clean, with white sand and fewer tourists than in Nha
Trang, a fine spot for a day-trip. Hire a car and driver or
take a taxi, though guided tours often offer an optional trip
to Monkey Island.
Bai Dai (Long Beach), about 22 km (14 mi) south of
Nha Trang, can be more easily reached thanks to the new,
extremely scenic airport road. This fabulous white-sand beach
is at the northern end of Cam Ranh Bay, a spectacular harbor
that once housed a vast U.S. naval base, followed by a Soviet
naval base after the fall of South Vietnam, which became a
Russian base after the fall of the Soviet Union. The roadside
is still littered with war materiel, and the Vietnamese military
is in charge of the coastline now, which has kept most of area
undeveloped and pristine. But the government is encouraging
tourism expansion here, so things are likely to start changing
fast. Your best bet to get here is a car and driver or taxi.
Water Sports. Nha Trang has all kinds of water-related activities,
including snorkeling, jet skiing, scuba diving, and boating.
It’s the main scuba center in Vietnam, so if you are a
certified diver, this is the place to take a plunge. You can
rent equipment through most hotels or operators right on
the beach. Dives may be disappointing during the rain and
windy season, mid-October through January, when sediment
stirred off the bottom limits visibility.
© 2010 Fodor’s Travel