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Food & Home Entertaining

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ED'S LETTER<br />

WHEN IN ROME<br />

ave you ever<br />

thought you<br />

knew superior<br />

quality, only to<br />

be shown what<br />

true five-star<br />

stuffismadeof?<br />

It’s a humbling<br />

experience that also makes you<br />

laugh a little at yourself. Just like<br />

shelling out for 500-thread-count<br />

Egyptian cotton sheets and then<br />

sleeping on 100% mulberry silk,<br />

coveting cashmere until you rub up<br />

against ultrafine merino wool, and<br />

eating pasta anywhere in the world<br />

untilyou’vetwirledyourforkin<br />

Italy,asIwasremindedonarecent<br />

trip to The Eternal City.<br />

And while I delight in the freedom<br />

of being unashamedly greedy in<br />

Italy by using the excuse that it’s<br />

only polite to follow their meal tradition<br />

of having antipasto, primo, secondo,<br />

contorno and dolce, every one of these<br />

courses could, for me, be pasta – solo.<br />

Since I’m confessing, I may as well<br />

admit that up until a year ago (okay,<br />

six months), I didn’t know that adding<br />

cream to a carbonara sauce is on<br />

a par with serving pork chops at<br />

a bar mitzvah.<br />

So, with the memory of all of those<br />

Roman pastas I ate – nay, suctioned –<br />

still as fresh as the Parmesan I sprinkled<br />

with abandon over them, I think I’m<br />

qualiied to vouch for the deliciousness<br />

of our cover dish – while it wasn’t made<br />

inItaly,ourfoodeditor,Claire,hascreated<br />

a ragù worth raving about.<br />

In case pasta’s not your thing (which<br />

isanalienconcepttome),wehavelots<br />

of other Italian-inspired dishes – check<br />

out Dianne Bibby’s ‘festa’ to celebrate<br />

Italian National Day on page 82, plus an<br />

irresistible breakfast pizza on page 62,<br />

whichIguaranteewillgetFather’sDay<br />

on 19 June off to a cracking start.<br />

As for me, I’ll be perfecting my<br />

cream-free carbonara this month –<br />

trust me, once you’ve seen and tasted<br />

the way it should be, you’ll never go back.<br />

Here’s to la dolce vita and the words<br />

ofthelate,greatFedericoFellini:“Life<br />

is a combination of magic and pasta.”<br />

Ciao for now,<br />

X<br />

I thought it only itting to share recommendations of some of my latest<br />

favourite pasta spots in Roma! Pictured below left is a delectable beef<br />

ragù with fettuccine, savoured at Ristochicco (ristochicco.it) – while it’s<br />

a matchbox-sized bistro, its portion sizes are anything but! Booking is<br />

essential. Next, taking centre stage, is a bona-fide carbonara that was so<br />

good,InearlyweptwhileIateit–atCucina&Vista(cucinaevista.com).Its<br />

Piazza di Spagna position means its close to the fashion-forward set who<br />

swan down Via Condotti in a constant stream, but its first-floor location<br />

allows you to rise above it all in a white-washed haven of tranquillity. On<br />

therightisspaghettiwithlobster,freshtomatoandgarlicatCostaParadiso<br />

(ristorantecostaparadiso.com).AssoonasIspottedthisrestaurant–<br />

Costabeingmypreciouslatedad’sname–Itook<br />

it as a sign that I was meant to go there. And, boy<br />

oh boy, was it buonissimo! Costa definitely would<br />

have approved.<br />

Ed’s photograph by Dylan Swart<br />

2 JUNE 2016

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