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Café-restaurant in <strong>the</strong> domed hall <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kunsthistorisches Museum<br />

www.VIENNA.INfo<br />

2011


2011 REASoNS FoR VIENNA<br />

Every year, one thought occupies <strong>the</strong><br />

editorial team more than any o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

when it comes to compiling this journal<br />

<strong>for</strong> you: “We must be prepared<br />

to leave copy on <strong>the</strong> cutting room<br />

floor.” <strong>The</strong> big question is always<br />

what to leave out. We have to decide<br />

which events, news and interesting<br />

angles can’t be touched on at all <strong>for</strong><br />

space reasons. Iamalways pleased<br />

to see <strong>the</strong> jockeying <strong>for</strong> position that<br />

surrounds this publication. It shows<br />

how lively Vienna is, and how much<br />

is going on in <strong>the</strong> city. It also demonstrates<br />

that Vienna understands <strong>the</strong><br />

importance not just <strong>of</strong> preserving its<br />

beauty and rich cultural heritage, but<br />

<strong>of</strong> using and revitalizing it to create<br />

new visitor experiences.<br />

Vienna is truly unique, and <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

something special <strong>every</strong> day. If you<br />

want to make sure that you don’t<br />

miss out on any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s attractions<br />

Istrongly recommend visiting<br />

www.vienna.info. <strong>The</strong> site will give<br />

you 2011 great reasons <strong>for</strong> Vienna in<br />

2011 –ifnot more!<br />

Iwish you apleasurable and inspiring<br />

read as you browse <strong>the</strong> topics that<br />

made it into this year’s Vienna Journal,<br />

and hope we will be seeing you<br />

soon. Welcome to Vienna!<br />

Norbert Kettner<br />

Vienna Tourist Board


2,141 bistro cafés, patisseries, espresso<br />

bars, café restaurants and classic<br />

<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>s await visitors to <strong>the</strong><br />

capital. <strong>The</strong> average Viennese drinks<br />

2.6 cups <strong>of</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> each day, and <strong>every</strong><br />

third person visits his or her favorite<br />

café two or three times aweek. C<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

and <strong>every</strong>thing that goes with it<br />

shapes <strong>life</strong> in <strong>the</strong> city and <strong>the</strong> local<br />

culture. <strong>The</strong> term “<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>”<br />

stands <strong>for</strong> alot more than you might<br />

suspect at first.<br />

ThE VIENNESE<br />

CoFFEE hoUSE –<br />

MICRoCoSM<br />

AND lIVING<br />

RooM<br />

PAGE4<br />

PAGE14<br />

VIENNESE<br />

CUISINE AND<br />

VIENNA’S WINES<br />

Vienna is <strong>the</strong> only city in <strong>the</strong> world<br />

to have given its name to aparticular<br />

style <strong>of</strong> cookery. And with good reason.<br />

From time immemorial <strong>the</strong> city’s<br />

chefs have used influences from<br />

many different countries to compose<br />

new dishes and create avaried cuisine<br />

that appeals to <strong>the</strong> imagination<br />

and all <strong>the</strong> senses. <strong>The</strong> fact that you<br />

can enjoy it with aglass <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local<br />

wine –<strong>the</strong>re are over 700 hectares <strong>of</strong><br />

vineyards inside <strong>the</strong> city limits –may<br />

also have something to do with <strong>the</strong><br />

quality <strong>of</strong> Viennese Cuisine.<br />

Green spaces account <strong>for</strong> more than<br />

half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> greater Vienna area –<br />

51 percent, to be precise. <strong>The</strong>y include<br />

<strong>the</strong> world-famous Vienna<br />

Woods, baroque <strong>for</strong>mal gardens, <strong>the</strong><br />

Prater park presented to <strong>the</strong> people<br />

by <strong>the</strong> Emperor, and <strong>the</strong> various<br />

parks included in <strong>the</strong> original plans<br />

<strong>for</strong> Vienna’s showpiece Ringstrasse<br />

boulevard. Not to mention 20 th -century<br />

developments such as opening<br />

up <strong>the</strong> Danube beaches and <strong>the</strong> creation<br />

<strong>of</strong> numerous recreation zones,<br />

nature reserves, and sport and leisure<br />

facilities.<br />

URBAN AND<br />

GREEN SPACES<br />

IN PERFECT<br />

hARMoNY<br />

PAGE6<br />

PAGE16<br />

IMPERIAl<br />

VIENNA –<br />

DREAMS AND<br />

REAlITY<br />

“When it comes to <strong>the</strong> harking back<br />

to <strong>the</strong> past, <strong>the</strong> Viennese are world<br />

champions. But <strong>the</strong> city has stopped<br />

playing its sweet, melancholic dirge,<br />

and instead it is trilling merrily along<br />

in an upbeat major. <strong>The</strong> <strong>for</strong>mer imperial<br />

residence hankers after past<br />

greatness like no o<strong>the</strong>r major city, yet<br />

it also has amodern, cult appeal and<br />

exudes baroque sensuality,” wrote<br />

Monika Czernin in <strong>the</strong> Merian travel<br />

guide. We couldn’t have put it better<br />

ourselves!<br />

Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Sigmund<br />

Freud, ludwig Wittgenstein,<br />

Josef h<strong>of</strong>fmann, Arthur Schnitzler<br />

and Gustav Mahler –just some <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> big names behind Vienna’s artistic<br />

renaissance around 1900. <strong>The</strong>se<br />

geniuses have had an enduring influence<br />

on modern <strong>life</strong>, and evidence<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir legacy can still be found all<br />

over Vienna in 2011. <strong>The</strong> same goes<br />

<strong>for</strong> contemporary artists in <strong>the</strong> city<br />

today.<br />

VIENNESE<br />

MoDERNISM<br />

AND<br />

MoDERNISM IN<br />

VIENNA<br />

PAGE8<br />

PAGE18<br />

MUSIC IS IN ThE<br />

AIR<br />

<strong>The</strong> fact that music is in <strong>the</strong> air in<br />

Vienna is not just down to <strong>the</strong> capital’s<br />

world-famous opera <strong>house</strong>s,<br />

concert halls and musical <strong>the</strong>aters –<br />

festivals, outdoor concerts, <strong>the</strong> ball<br />

season, traditional heuriger wine tavern<br />

music, live opera broadcasts and,<br />

increasingly, clubs and dance locations<br />

all help set <strong>the</strong> tone <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city.<br />

<strong>The</strong> 5.2-kilometer-long Ringstrasse<br />

encircles Vienna’shistoric city center.<br />

<strong>The</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> this showpiece boulevard<br />

following <strong>the</strong> demolition <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> medieval city walls from 1858<br />

marked anew chapter in <strong>the</strong> history<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> capital, and not just in terms<br />

<strong>of</strong> urban planning. <strong>The</strong> Ringstrasse is<br />

<strong>the</strong> ideal place to study and experience<br />

one and ahalf centuries <strong>of</strong> cultural<br />

and social change in Vienna and<br />

Central Europe.<br />

ASTREET,<br />

AN ERA,<br />

AFEElING<br />

PAGE10<br />

PAGE20<br />

FoRM AND<br />

FUNCTIoN<br />

“To love and beautify something<br />

is one and <strong>the</strong> same thing.” <strong>The</strong>se<br />

words come from Robert Musil, one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most influential German-language<br />

authors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 20 th century and<br />

aconnoisseur <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Austrian soul.<br />

Countless Viennese manufacturers<br />

and shops follow this maxim as <strong>the</strong>y<br />

apply <strong>the</strong>ir traditions and expertise to<br />

<strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> making <strong>the</strong> objects that surround<br />

us more beautiful.<br />

Contents3<br />

What is aFaxi? Do Ireally want to<br />

follow in <strong>the</strong> footsteps <strong>of</strong> Josefine<br />

Mutzenbacher? Where will Vienna’s<br />

boats and wheels take me? Turn to<br />

pages 12 and 13 <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> answers to<br />

questions like <strong>the</strong>se, and in<strong>for</strong>mation<br />

on some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> countless ways to<br />

experience Viennese joie de vivre at<br />

first hand.<br />

DISCoVERING<br />

VIENNA, WITh A<br />

TWIST!<br />

PAGE12<br />

PAGE22<br />

2011 IN VIENNA<br />

This page contains even more recommendations<br />

<strong>of</strong> what to do in Vienna<br />

in 2011. From <strong>the</strong> New Year’s Trail<br />

to Christmas markets, from summer<br />

concerts to picnics in <strong>the</strong> park,<br />

and from Sisi’s summer palace to<br />

<strong>the</strong> stage where Johann Strauss once<br />

played –and much else besides.


MICRoCoSM<br />

AND PRIVATE<br />

lIVING RooM<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>right</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> <strong>for</strong><br />

<strong>every</strong><strong>walk</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>life</strong> ...<br />

oK, <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> is drunk all over <strong>the</strong> world,<br />

and <strong>the</strong>re are o<strong>the</strong>r places where<br />

people know how to make acup <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong>. <strong>The</strong> Viennese cannot claim<br />

to have invented <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong>. But <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

no denying that <strong>the</strong>y have perfected<br />

<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> culture –and <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />

café shows why <strong>the</strong> words <strong>for</strong> “culture”<br />

and “cult” are so close to one<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r. <strong>The</strong>re are endless possibilities<br />

to combine varieties (a melange,<br />

einspänner or schale gold?), settings<br />

(classic 19 th century, art nouveau or<br />

contemporary?), side orders (pair <strong>of</strong><br />

frankfurters, slice <strong>of</strong> Sachertorte or<br />

goulash?), occupations (seeing and<br />

being seen, reading <strong>the</strong> papers or<br />

chatting) and choices <strong>of</strong> company.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Viennese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> is acosmos<br />

that has yet to be charted in full<br />

–and <strong>every</strong> cup <strong>of</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> you enjoy<br />

in Vienna will taste alittle different<br />

to <strong>the</strong> one be<strong>for</strong>e.<br />

Architect Gregor Eichinger<br />

created an “aromatic <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong><br />

jar” <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> MAK Design<br />

Shop. <strong>The</strong>se jars (designed<br />

by Oskar Strnad), filled with<br />

freshly roasted <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> beans<br />

release an intense aroma<br />

when <strong>the</strong>y are opened.<br />

Youcan go <strong>for</strong> marble at <strong>the</strong> Café Central<br />

(above), wood paneling and art at <strong>the</strong> Hawelka<br />

(left), terrace and art nouveau at <strong>the</strong> Palmenhaus,<br />

mirrors at <strong>the</strong> Savoy (both <strong>right</strong>). But it is<br />

more than <strong>the</strong> interiors that sets Vienna <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong><br />

<strong>house</strong>s apart.


One <strong>of</strong> many classic items <strong>of</strong> furniture originally<br />

created <strong>for</strong> aViennese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> –<strong>the</strong><br />

bentwood chair that Adolf Loos designed <strong>for</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Café Museum in 1899. Today it is on display<br />

at <strong>the</strong> H<strong>of</strong>mobiliendepot, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> largest<br />

furniture museums in <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

MUCh MoRE<br />

ThAN JUST<br />

CoFFEE CoFFEE hoUSE...<br />

Vienna’scafés<br />

hold amirror to<br />

its history, soul,<br />

people and culture<br />

“Because Mr hawelka does not renovate,”<br />

is writer heimito von Doderer’s<br />

explanation <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> enduring popularity<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> legendary Café hawelka.<br />

And even if that is not entirely true<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hawelka, <strong>the</strong> fact is that <strong>every</strong><br />

Viennese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> has its own<br />

unique character that barely changes<br />

over <strong>the</strong> years, and leaves alasting<br />

impression on its patrons. Traditions<br />

are passed down from one generation<br />

to <strong>the</strong> next and closely guarded like<br />

family secrets. For instance, at <strong>the</strong><br />

hawelka talking until <strong>the</strong> sun goes<br />

down (or up) is <strong>the</strong> order <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day.<br />

It was closed <strong>for</strong> 43 years, but that’snot<br />

enough to keep atrue institution like<br />

<strong>the</strong> Café Central down. Apopular artists’<br />

café, <strong>the</strong> Central opened in 1868<br />

in what is now known as <strong>the</strong> Palais<br />

Ferstel –one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’smost modern<br />

buildings at <strong>the</strong> time. <strong>The</strong> café, one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> centers <strong>of</strong> intellectual <strong>life</strong> in <strong>the</strong><br />

capital, shut up shop in 1943 and did<br />

not reopen until 1986. But it has been<br />

business as usual ever since: “a good<br />

mind behind <strong>every</strong> paper,<strong>every</strong> argument<br />

aliterary gem, and <strong>every</strong> drop <strong>of</strong><br />

cream aworld view.”<br />

Vienna’s <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>s are also living<br />

architectural history. <strong>The</strong> country’s<br />

leading architects are well represented.<br />

<strong>The</strong> interior <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Café Wunderer<br />

was created by Josef h<strong>of</strong>fmann, and<br />

oswald haerdtl designed <strong>the</strong> Café<br />

A new spin on apple<br />

strudel: strudel: Xocolat has used used<br />

<strong>the</strong> classic ingredients <strong>of</strong><br />

this highlight highlight <strong>of</strong> Viennese Viennese<br />

pastry<br />

cooking to conjure<br />

up anew a new kind <strong>of</strong>confec- tionary (handmade, like<br />

<strong>every</strong>thing <strong>the</strong>y do).<br />

Prückel. Even Adolf loos’ American<br />

Bar, aprototype <strong>of</strong> today’s nightclub<br />

that has been copied around <strong>the</strong><br />

world, adapted classic <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> architecture<br />

to <strong>the</strong> demands <strong>of</strong> night<strong>life</strong>.<br />

C<strong>of</strong>fee culture in Vienna dictates that<br />

no cultural institution can be without<br />

its own café. <strong>The</strong> Kunsthistorisches<br />

Museum, Museum <strong>of</strong> Applied Art/<br />

Contemporary Art (MAK), <strong>the</strong> Jewish<br />

Museum, <strong>the</strong> Burg<strong>the</strong>ater, <strong>the</strong> MuseumsQuartier<br />

and even <strong>the</strong> home <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> lipizzan thoroughbreds all have<br />

cafés, and each is an institution in its<br />

own <strong>right</strong>. <strong>The</strong> Viennese know how<br />

to combine business and pleasure,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> precise destination is always<br />

decided at <strong>the</strong> last minute according<br />

to personal preferences.<br />

Not even <strong>the</strong> imperial family was immune<br />

to <strong>the</strong> passion <strong>for</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>s<br />

and patisseries. This is reflected in<br />

<strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> establishments honored<br />

with <strong>the</strong> title <strong>of</strong> “purveyor to<br />

<strong>the</strong> imperial court”, many <strong>of</strong> which,<br />

including Gerstner,Demel, Sluka and<br />

heiner,are still open to this day.<br />

...with aview:C<strong>of</strong>fee at 160m altitude<br />

(and 360 degree views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city) can<br />

only mean <strong>the</strong> Danube Tower, completed<br />

in 1964 and Vienna’s tallest<br />

building.<br />

...as astatement: <strong>The</strong>ir terraces are<br />

just two meters apart but <strong>the</strong> Café<br />

Korb (*1904) and Café Delias (*2002)<br />

could hardly be more different. one<br />

is consciously artsy and quirky, <strong>the</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>r abastion <strong>of</strong> urban chic. Some<br />

people have even been known to<br />

cross <strong>the</strong> invisible border from time<br />

to time.<br />

...alternative: operngasse is home to<br />

an elegant salon de thé which provides<br />

afrancophile alternative to <strong>the</strong><br />

home grown <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>.<br />

...crossovers: <strong>The</strong> trendy Freihaus<br />

district is home to Point <strong>of</strong> Sale<br />

which is aViennese take on <strong>the</strong> deli,<br />

and Kiosk which successfully combines<br />

<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> shop atmosphere with<br />

typical sausage stand products.<br />

...en rose:B<strong>right</strong> pink can only mean<br />

one thing in Vienna – one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

28 branches <strong>of</strong> Aida. <strong>The</strong> chain features<br />

original fifties espresso bar decor<br />

and <strong>the</strong> famous iced punch cakes<br />

–presumably <strong>the</strong> inspiration behind<br />

<strong>the</strong> corporate color scheme.<br />

...and afeast <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> eyes: Marcus <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Café Marcusplatz is widely rated<br />

as <strong>the</strong> city’s best looking <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> shop<br />

CoFFEE FoR<br />

All ThE SENSES<br />

<strong>The</strong> genuine Viennese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong><br />

atmosphere is inextricably linked to<br />

<strong>the</strong> city, but some aspects do travel<br />

well.<br />

Take chocolate <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> beans and Empress<br />

Elisabeth’s favorite, candied<br />

violets from Demel. And probably<br />

<strong>the</strong> smallest sweets in <strong>the</strong> world,<br />

unchanged since 1928, still come in<br />

Wiener Werkstätte designed packaging.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Viennnese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> – microcosm and living room5<br />

owner.But we’ll leave that to each individual<br />

to decide <strong>for</strong> him or herself.<br />

...with asurvival instinct: originally<br />

intended as a temporary solution<br />

when it opened in 1992, <strong>the</strong> café at<br />

<strong>the</strong> Kunsthalle Karlsplatz soon became<br />

afirm favorite, and is still going<br />

strong now.<br />

...<strong>for</strong> Dr Jekyll &MrHyde:Afavorite<br />

hangout <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> gay and lesbian scene<br />

in <strong>the</strong> evenings, <strong>the</strong> opulent Café Savoy<br />

leads adouble <strong>life</strong>. on Saturdays<br />

it turns into afavorite family meeting<br />

place thanks to its proximity to <strong>the</strong><br />

flea market.<br />

Aroma researcher and praline artist Michael<br />

Diewald creates his Blühendes Konfekt (blossoming<br />

confectionary) from wild fruits, herbs<br />

and dried flowers. <strong>The</strong> seasonal range includes<br />

lime and elderberry marzipan in turmeric,<br />

camomile flower chocolates and chocolate<br />

mint leaves.<br />

<strong>The</strong>n <strong>the</strong>re are unusual echoes <strong>of</strong><br />

abygone age at places like Knopfkönig,<br />

where asupplier <strong>of</strong> buttons<br />

and zips by appointment to <strong>the</strong> court<br />

began selling his goods back in 1844.<br />

Virtually unchanged to this day, it<br />

is now home to Schokoladekönig<br />

which sells cakes, confectionary and<br />

pralines.<br />

And <strong>the</strong>re are <strong>the</strong> insights <strong>of</strong>fered by<br />

star chef Christian Petz at <strong>the</strong> Xocolat<br />

workshop where visitors can watch<br />

<strong>the</strong> chocolatiers at work or sign up<br />

<strong>for</strong> acourse to learn <strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> pastry<br />

and chocolate making. Book early to<br />

avoid disappointment.<br />

late check out is <strong>the</strong> apt title <strong>of</strong> aCD<br />

which ventures into <strong>the</strong> worlds <strong>of</strong><br />

jazz, bossa nova, hip-hop, soul, broken<br />

beat and electronic music. This<br />

appetizer <strong>for</strong> Austrian music was<br />

released to coincide with <strong>the</strong> Café<br />

Drechsler’s 90 th birthday. <strong>The</strong> legendary<br />

café is not just famous <strong>for</strong> its<br />

opening hours (it only closes from<br />

2–3 a.m.) and amixed crowd (<strong>every</strong>one<br />

from market traders to party<br />

girls can be found <strong>the</strong>re). ATerence<br />

Conran &Partners makeover has created<br />

acafé <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> 21 st century that is<br />

unique and familiar at once.<br />

ANAToMY oF<br />

AN INSTITUTIoN<br />

Virtually <strong>every</strong> Viennese bar has a<br />

touch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> café about it –one more<br />

reason <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s legendary congeniality.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Vienna <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong>-<strong>house</strong><br />

has <strong>the</strong> following variants:<br />

•Café-Konditorei /Acelebration <strong>of</strong><br />

all things sweet. Uncontested doyenne<br />

–<strong>for</strong>mer purveyors to <strong>the</strong> imperial<br />

court, Demel.<br />

•Café-Restaurant /This is <strong>of</strong>ten a<br />

gross understatement <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> culinary<br />

case, as many cafés have a<br />

loyal following thanks to <strong>the</strong> quality<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir food. Examples range from<br />

Zum Schwarzen Kameel (which<br />

runs <strong>the</strong> gamut from luxury restaurant<br />

to snack bar) to trendy Babu,<br />

which is one <strong>of</strong> many places along<br />

<strong>the</strong> Gürtel beltway – <strong>the</strong> newest<br />

center <strong>of</strong> city night<strong>life</strong>.<br />

•Nacht-Café /aka bar.Decked out in<br />

red plush wallpaper, <strong>the</strong> Eden Bar<br />

is atrue classic. <strong>The</strong> Volksgarten<br />

disco club is acontemporary variation<br />

on <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me, and has long<br />

been aMecca <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Vienna party<br />

crowd.<br />

•Tanz-Café / <strong>The</strong>re are very few<br />

genuine Tanzcafés (dance cafés) left<br />

today, as most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m have since<br />

been rebranded as discos or clubs.<br />

At least <strong>the</strong> Tanzcafé Jenseits is not<br />

ashamed <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> name –this <strong>for</strong>mer<br />

red-light bar is a magnet <strong>for</strong> late<br />

night party people.<br />

And that’s be<strong>for</strong>e you even mention<br />

concert cafés, bridge cafés, internet<br />

cafés and <strong>the</strong> rest.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> side<strong>walk</strong> cafés reopen<br />

and Vienna emerges<br />

from its slumber without<br />

fail on <strong>the</strong> first sunny<br />

Saturday in March each<br />

year. A new <strong>life</strong> begins.<br />

Ice <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> comes back on<br />

<strong>the</strong> menu. People wander<br />

from one <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> to<br />

<strong>the</strong> next in aday brimming<br />

with fresh discoveries.”


Perhaps it is because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>usion <strong>of</strong> flowers in Vienna that<br />

<strong>the</strong> floral designs are one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> glories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Art Nouveau movement.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Blumenball at City Hall also has an illustrious history.<br />

January14, 2011 marks <strong>the</strong> 89 th installment.<br />

GREEN,<br />

ENVIRoNMENTAllY<br />

FRIENDlY AND<br />

lIVEABlE<br />

Atotal <strong>of</strong> 850 parks and 1,100 km <strong>of</strong><br />

cycle paths, eco-friendly hospitality<br />

at 81 environmentally certified restaurants,<br />

and clear spring water direct<br />

from <strong>the</strong> tap. Where can you get<br />

all that? In Vienna, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

livable cities on earth!<br />

Statistically speaking, <strong>the</strong>re are<br />

120 square meters <strong>of</strong> green space <strong>for</strong><br />

each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Vienna’s 1.7 million inhabitants.<br />

With open space making<br />

up 51 percent <strong>of</strong> its total area, <strong>the</strong><br />

Austrian capital is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />

greenest big cities. <strong>The</strong>re is <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />

park to suit <strong>every</strong> taste. highlights<br />

include <strong>the</strong> <strong>for</strong>mal French gardens<br />

at Schönbrunn Palace, <strong>the</strong> refined<br />

English-garden-style Stadtpark, <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s oldest Alpine garden with<br />

some 4,000 species <strong>of</strong> Alpine flora<br />

at <strong>the</strong> Belvedere Palace, 400 varieties<br />

<strong>of</strong> roses in <strong>the</strong> Volksgarten, one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s oldest surviving baroque<br />

<strong>for</strong>mal gardens at <strong>the</strong> Augarten, <strong>the</strong><br />

10-m-high treetop trail at Schönbrunn<br />

Zoo, and <strong>the</strong> romantic ponds<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Türkenschanzpark.<br />

Leisure and<br />

Relaxation<br />

over acentury ago Vienna’s mayor <strong>The</strong> Donau Auen National Park was<br />

Karl lueger laid <strong>the</strong> groundwork <strong>for</strong> created to protect one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> largest<br />

a19,000 hectare greenbelt, which vir- natural wetlands in Central Europe.<br />

tually encircles <strong>the</strong> city today. A third <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> park is accounted<br />

<strong>for</strong> by <strong>the</strong> lobau in Vienna, an area<br />

In 2005 <strong>the</strong> Vienna Woods were which incorporates parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> New<br />

designated a biosphere reserve by Danube and <strong>the</strong> Danube Island.<br />

UNESCo –atitle given to outstanding<br />

cultural and natural landscapes.<br />

An area <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> 110,000 football<br />

pitches provides a habitat <strong>for</strong><br />

2,000 types <strong>of</strong> plants, 150 species <strong>of</strong><br />

breeding birds and many o<strong>the</strong>r endangered<br />

animals.


VIENNA<br />

AND WATER<br />

<strong>The</strong> Danube has always shaped<br />

Vienna. Immortalized in Johann<br />

Strauss’s Blue Danube Waltz, Vienna<br />

is indelibly linked with <strong>the</strong> river<br />

in <strong>the</strong> minds <strong>of</strong> people all over <strong>the</strong><br />

world. <strong>The</strong> Danube and <strong>the</strong> 21-km<br />

Danube island –originally constructed<br />

as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s flood defenses<br />

–plays aspecial role in <strong>every</strong>day<br />

<strong>life</strong> in <strong>the</strong> capital. Vienna also has <strong>the</strong><br />

Danube to thank <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Graveyard <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Unknown. This burial ground is<br />

named <strong>for</strong> 104 bodies washed ashore<br />

at <strong>the</strong> confluence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Danube and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Danube Canal, most <strong>of</strong> which<br />

could not be identified.<br />

But <strong>the</strong>re is more to water in Vienna<br />

than just <strong>the</strong> Danube:<br />

•17 million years ago Vienna was<br />

surrounded by salt water –itwas in<br />

midst <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pannonian sea.<br />

•Vienna has 29 wetland lakes, and<br />

four rivers and canals, as well as<br />

29 streams in <strong>the</strong> Vienna Woods,<br />

and about 40 ponds and lakes.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> 60,000-square-meter <strong>The</strong>rme<br />

Wien spa is unique in Europe. It is<br />

surrounded by <strong>the</strong> Kurpark and <strong>the</strong><br />

Kurkonditorei oberlaa, which gets<br />

through some 16.5 metric tons <strong>of</strong><br />

chocolate each year.<br />

•Twospringwater pipelines from <strong>the</strong><br />

Schneeberg, Rax, Schneealpe and<br />

hochschwab regions supply Vienna<br />

with 400,000 cubic meters <strong>of</strong> fresh<br />

spring water each day.<br />

•Vienna’s spring water also flows<br />

from 700 drinking water fountains.<br />

<strong>The</strong> astronomical fountain<br />

on Schwarzenbergplatz recalls <strong>the</strong><br />

first Vienna spring water main. <strong>The</strong><br />

365 small jets around <strong>the</strong> rim <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> basin symbolize <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong><br />

days in <strong>the</strong> year,<strong>the</strong> 12 high jets <strong>the</strong><br />

months, <strong>the</strong> 24 low jets <strong>the</strong> number<br />

<strong>of</strong> hours in <strong>the</strong> day, and afur<strong>the</strong>r<br />

30 jets <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> days in <strong>the</strong><br />

month. Vienna’s 54 monumental<br />

fountains shape <strong>the</strong> cityscape. <strong>The</strong><br />

marriage fountain on hoher Markt<br />

is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s most important<br />

baroque fountains.<br />

•Vienna has four times as many<br />

bridges as Venice – 1,716 in all.<br />

<strong>The</strong> bijoux Konstantinsteg in <strong>the</strong><br />

Prater Park, completed in 1873, is<br />

Vienna’soldest bridge.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> 1910 Strudlh<strong>of</strong>stiege, with its<br />

curved stone steps and green balustrades,<br />

is acharming example <strong>of</strong><br />

Viennese art nouveau. <strong>The</strong> centerpiece<br />

is acopper fish with water<br />

gushing out <strong>of</strong> its mouth.<br />

oRGANIC<br />

DElIGhTS<br />

Vienna is <strong>the</strong> <strong>right</strong> destination <strong>for</strong><br />

holidaymakers in search <strong>of</strong> health<br />

and sustainability. From organic<br />

body care products to fair-trade fashion<br />

boutiques, and organic stores and<br />

delis –Vienna has it all. <strong>The</strong> 81 businesses<br />

that carry <strong>the</strong> Ecolabel contribute<br />

to <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>life</strong> in <strong>the</strong> city<br />

by pursuing policies such as energy<br />

saving and organic purchasing. <strong>The</strong><br />

Vienna City Council is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

largest organic farmers in Austria.<br />

Its three organic farms have over<br />

860 hectares <strong>of</strong> land.<br />

Sustainable fashion tips<br />

•Göttin des Glücks:<br />

www.goettindesgluecks.com<br />

•Modus Vivendi:<br />

www.modusvivendi.at<br />

•herr und Frau Klein:<br />

www.herrundfrauklein.com<br />

•Prumo: www.prumo.at<br />

•ebenBERG: www.ebenberg.at<br />

•GuterSt<strong>of</strong>f: http://guterst<strong>of</strong>f.com<br />

•pagabei: www.pagabei.at<br />

•Terra Plana: www.terraplana.com<br />

Sustainable food tips<br />

•Tewa organic restuarant:<br />

www.tewa672.com<br />

•Eating and cooking at Wrenkh:<br />

www.wiener-kochsalon.com<br />

•Saint Charles Alimentary pharmacy<br />

restaurant: www.saint.info<br />

•Weltcafé: www.weltcafe.at<br />

•Experience <strong>life</strong> as afarmer at <strong>the</strong><br />

landgut Wien Cobenzl:<br />

www.landgutcobenzl.at<br />

•homemade bread at Motto am<br />

Fluss, at <strong>the</strong> Vienna City riverboat<br />

terminal<br />

VIENNA IS ABED<br />

oF RoSES<br />

Wherever you go, Vienna is in bloom.<br />

<strong>The</strong> hirschstetten nursery alone cultivates<br />

some 300,000 spring, 1.4 million<br />

summer and 50,000 autumn<br />

flowers, as well as one million bulbs,<br />

135 trees and 11,000 shrubs each<br />

year.Its rosarium is home to 1,700 varieties<br />

<strong>of</strong> roses. Magnolia trees go<br />

back along way in <strong>the</strong> Austrian capital.<br />

one particularly old specimen<br />

stands near <strong>the</strong> Strauss memorial in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Stadtpark. Planted towards <strong>the</strong><br />

end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 19 th century, it is still flowering<br />

to this day.<br />

AMoNUMENT<br />

To MoThER<br />

NATURE<br />

Natural monuments can be protected<br />

in Vienna by acity law passed on<br />

July 5, 1935. Today <strong>the</strong>re are more<br />

than 400 natural monuments in <strong>the</strong><br />

city.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> “Thousand-Year-Old Yew” at<br />

Rennweg 12, in <strong>the</strong> third district, is<br />

Vienna’s oldest natural monument.<br />

It is <strong>the</strong> sole survivor from an ancient<br />

yew grove planted in Roman<br />

times.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> courtyard <strong>of</strong> Schlossgasse 15<br />

in <strong>the</strong> 5 th district is home to one <strong>of</strong><br />

ABuddha’s Hand citron in <strong>the</strong> 300-year-old Federal Gardens collection, which originated<br />

with <strong>the</strong> Imperial orangeries.<br />

Urban and green spaces in perfect harmony7<br />

<strong>the</strong> last examples <strong>of</strong> Maria <strong>The</strong>resa‘s<br />

mulberry trees. her affection <strong>for</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>se trees was chiefly due to its<br />

suitability <strong>for</strong> breeding silkworms.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> 750-meter-long Schönbrunner<br />

Allee leading from Schönbrunn Palace<br />

to hetzendorf Palace goes back<br />

to <strong>the</strong> latter years <strong>of</strong> Maria <strong>The</strong>resa’s<br />

reign and that <strong>of</strong> Joseph II.<br />

•Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart regularly<br />

passed <strong>the</strong> oriental plant (Platanus<br />

orientalis) at Rennweg 14 in <strong>the</strong><br />

3 rd district on his way to give piano<br />

lessons in <strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> next door.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> intoxicating aroma <strong>of</strong> hundreds<br />

<strong>of</strong> citrus plants fills <strong>the</strong> orangery<br />

at Schönbrunn Palace. A<br />

large number <strong>of</strong> plants from <strong>the</strong><br />

Federal Gardens’ historic collection,<br />

some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m over 180 years<br />

old, will be on show during <strong>the</strong><br />

Vienna Citrus Days (May 13–15,<br />

2011). horticultural experts will<br />

be on hand to provide in<strong>for</strong>mation<br />

and give gardening tips.”


“RESTRAINING<br />

ARTISTS IS A<br />

CRIME” EGoN SChIElE<br />

“Art cannot be modern; art is<br />

timeless.”<br />

Egon Schiele<br />

Apair <strong>of</strong> major museum exhibitions<br />

in Vienna during 2011 are dedicated<br />

to <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> central artistic<br />

personalities in turn-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>the</strong>century<br />

Vienna; Egon Schiele (1890-<br />

1918). Along with Gustav Klimt,<br />

Schiele was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most famous<br />

Austrian painters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 20 th century<br />

and pioneer who paved <strong>the</strong> way <strong>for</strong><br />

Modernism. Schiele’s works will be<br />

on display in <strong>the</strong> baroque Belvedere<br />

palace from January to June 2011<br />

and in <strong>the</strong> Leopold Museum in <strong>the</strong><br />

MuseumsQuartier (MQ) from September<br />

2011 to January 2012.<br />

Although <strong>the</strong> whole <strong>of</strong> Europe was a<br />

hive <strong>of</strong> creativity between 1890 and<br />

1910/1920 some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important<br />

discoveries and innovations <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> age were made in <strong>the</strong> Austrian<br />

capital. <strong>The</strong> Wiener Moderne period<br />

is associated with names such<br />

as Sigmund Freud, ludwig Wittgenstein,<br />

otto Wagner, Adolf loos, Josef<br />

h<strong>of</strong>fmann, Arthur Schnitzler,Gustav<br />

Mahler and Arnold Schönberg.<br />

Egon Schiele also belongs to this list<br />

<strong>of</strong> luminaries. At <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> sixteen<br />

he became astudent at <strong>the</strong> Academy<br />

<strong>of</strong> Fine Arts only to leave again two<br />

years later, disappointed by <strong>the</strong> dogmatic<br />

teaching methods. <strong>The</strong> art collector<br />

heinrich Benesch described<br />

Schiele as “slightly shy, alittle timid<br />

and alittle self-conscious.” he was a<br />

serious character without being dark<br />

or melancholy; “Schiele was not one<br />

to let things get him down.”<br />

In 1909 agroup <strong>of</strong> young artists associated<br />

with Schiele, <strong>the</strong> Neukunstgruppe,<br />

caused astir with its hotly<br />

debated debut exhibition. “Nobody<br />

may ever find out that Ihave seen this<br />

filth,” <strong>the</strong> heir to <strong>the</strong> throne, Archduke<br />

Franz Ferdinand is supposed<br />

to have said. In 1912 Schiele spent<br />

24 days in prison <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> distribution<br />

<strong>of</strong> obscene drawings.<br />

Straightened circumstances and a<br />

suggestion by <strong>the</strong> famous architect<br />

otto Wagner led Schiele to paint<br />

portraits <strong>of</strong> personalities from <strong>the</strong><br />

Viennese arts scene. he was encouraged<br />

above all by <strong>the</strong> highly successful<br />

Gustav Klimt, 28 years his senior.<br />

<strong>The</strong> result was afriendship and<br />

meeting <strong>of</strong> kindred artistic spirits that<br />

Schiele commemorated in his painting<br />

<strong>The</strong> hermits (1912) which is now<br />

on display in <strong>the</strong> leopold Museum.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> 49 th exhibition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />

Secession in 1918, Schiele had<br />

19 paintings and 29 drawings on<br />

show in <strong>the</strong> main gallery. It was his<br />

first artistic and material success.<br />

only afew months later, inoctober<br />

1918, he died from <strong>the</strong> Spanish influenza,<br />

three days after <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong><br />

his wife Edith, who was six months<br />

pregnant.<br />

Schiele’s international recognition<br />

owes much to <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Austrian<br />

gallerist otto Kallir and his<br />

St. Etienne gallery in New York,<br />

as well as Viennese doctor Rudolf<br />

leopold, who began collecting <strong>the</strong><br />

artist’s works in <strong>the</strong> 1950s, atime<br />

when his oeuvre was less wellknown.<br />

leopold’scomprehensive art<br />

collection is now part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> leopold<br />

Museum and includes 44 paintings<br />

and some 180 works on paper. <strong>The</strong><br />

Albertina also has numerous Schiele<br />

drawings and watercolours. It also<br />

manages <strong>the</strong> Egon Schiele Archive<br />

which has an extensive collection<br />

<strong>of</strong> documentary materials, letters,<br />

sketchbooks and early works.<br />

Schiele created around 300 paintings<br />

and between two and three<br />

thousand works on paper during his<br />

short <strong>life</strong>. Today <strong>the</strong>y command top<br />

prices. Self-Portrait with Checkered<br />

Shirt, <strong>for</strong> example, was sold in New<br />

York in 2007 <strong>for</strong> USD 11.353 million.<br />

<strong>The</strong> current auction record <strong>for</strong><br />

aSchiele oil painting was posted in<br />

2006, when Einzelne häuser, häuser<br />

mit Bergen fetched USD 22.4 million.


VIENNA’S<br />

STRoNG WoMEN<br />

It’s high time –and now is <strong>the</strong> best<br />

opportunity –toget to know <strong>the</strong>se<br />

influential, individual and exciting<br />

women. Vienna proudly presents:<br />

•VALIE EXPORT (*1940). Amedia<br />

artist who is untiring in her struggle<br />

<strong>for</strong> an equal and gender-neutral<br />

evaluation <strong>of</strong> media <strong>the</strong>mes. In <strong>the</strong><br />

process she interrogates <strong>the</strong> communicative<br />

and cultural codification<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> human body. <strong>The</strong> exhibition<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Belvedere (16 october<br />

2010 to 30 January 2011) brings<br />

toge<strong>the</strong>r more than 40 years <strong>of</strong> her<br />

work including per<strong>for</strong>mances, photography,<br />

film and media installations<br />

in acomprehensive overview<br />

<strong>of</strong> her entire output.<br />

VALIE EXPORT„Einkreisung“ (Encircling), 1976<br />

©VBK, Vienna, 2010<br />

•Kiki Kogelnik (1935-1997). Kogelnik<br />

is considered Austria’s most<br />

important Pop artist, although she<br />

always resisted that label because <strong>of</strong><br />

her European roots. Andy Warhol<br />

and Roy lichtenstein were among<br />

her friends. <strong>The</strong> subtle and joyful<br />

works <strong>of</strong> this exceptional woman<br />

challenge traditional gender portrayals.<br />

“Art comes from artifice”,<br />

she once said. Kunsthalle Wien is<br />

exhibiting Kiki Kogelnik in an international<br />

context as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

exhibition “Power Up! – Female<br />

Pop Artists” (5 November 2010 to<br />

20 February 2011).<br />

Kiki Kogelnik with Loverboy,<br />

Atelier New York, ca. 1965 ©Kiki Kogelnik<br />

Foundation Wien New York<br />

•Eugenie Schwarzwald (1872–1940).<br />

Schwarzwald was –from 1911 –<strong>the</strong><br />

director <strong>of</strong> Austria’s only school<br />

that prepared girls <strong>for</strong> university.<br />

<strong>The</strong> teaching staff included oskar<br />

Kokoschka, Adolf loos and Arnold<br />

Schönberg. Vicky Baum, Alice<br />

herdan-Zuckmayer, Anna Freud<br />

and helene Weigel were among her<br />

best-known students. She worked<br />

to create a“school <strong>of</strong> joy” under<br />

<strong>the</strong> motto “boredom is poison.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> Jewish Museum Vienna is hosting<br />

aSchwarzwald solo show from<br />

24 November 2010 to March 2011.<br />

•Erika Giovanna Klien (1900-1957),<br />

My Ullmann (1905-1995), Elisabeth<br />

Karlinsky (1905-1994). During<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1920s <strong>the</strong>se three emancipated<br />

women developed Austria’s most<br />

important contribution to <strong>the</strong> international<br />

avant-garde <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time.<br />

As students at Vienna’s school <strong>for</strong><br />

applied arts (Wiener Kunstgewerbeschule)<br />

under Franz Cizek <strong>the</strong>y<br />

created Viennese Kineticism, an<br />

eclectic mix <strong>of</strong> Expressionism, Cubism,<br />

Constructivism and Futurism.<br />

<strong>The</strong>ir work is on show at <strong>the</strong> Belvedere<br />

from February to June 2011.<br />

•Birgit Jürgenssen (1949-2003). Art<br />

magazine described <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong><br />

Jürgenssen as “exquisite, sophisticated,<br />

elegant” and “chic, even<br />

urbane.” As early as <strong>the</strong> late 1960s<br />

Birgit Jürgenssen began subtly and<br />

subversively questioning social<br />

dogmas and <strong>the</strong> cultural construction<br />

<strong>of</strong> femininity. <strong>The</strong> Bank Austria<br />

Kunst<strong>for</strong>um presents work by<br />

this feminist pioneer from 16 December<br />

2010 to 6March 2011.<br />

•Eva Schlegel (*1960). Schlegel’s<br />

photographs, objects, installations<br />

and architectural interventions<br />

have made her one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most successful<br />

Austrian artists <strong>of</strong> our time.<br />

She has participated at <strong>the</strong> Venice<br />

Biennale on a number <strong>of</strong> occasions.<br />

“In Between” is <strong>the</strong> name Eva<br />

Schlegel has chosen <strong>for</strong> her exhibition<br />

at MAK that runs from 8December<br />

2010 to 1May 2011.<br />

FAVoRITE<br />

SCANDAlS<br />

In Vienna an endearing nickname is<br />

<strong>the</strong> best pro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> acceptance. Sometimes<br />

it is afine line between agreat<br />

scandal and heartfelt love. For example<br />

…<br />

•<strong>The</strong> “House without Eyebrows”.<br />

In 1911 <strong>the</strong> building on Michaeler<br />

Platz caused a sensation because<br />

it dispensed with historistic or Art<br />

Nouveau ornamentation. Even <strong>the</strong><br />

window lintels (<strong>the</strong> “eyebrows”)<br />

were bare. Emperor Franz Joseph,<br />

so <strong>the</strong> story goes, had <strong>the</strong> curtains<br />

in <strong>the</strong> palace across <strong>the</strong> street closed<br />

permanently to shield him from <strong>the</strong><br />

view. Today it is unquestionable<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important buildings<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> early Modernist era.<br />

Eva Schlegel, In Between, 2009 ©VBK, Vienna, 2010<br />

Birgit Jürgenssen, Untitled (Self with Small<br />

Fur), 1974 ©Estate <strong>of</strong> Birgit Jürgenssen VBK,<br />

Vienna, 2010<br />

•<strong>The</strong> “Cabbage”. <strong>The</strong> young architect<br />

Joseph Maria olbrich designed<br />

this exhibition space <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> avantgarde<br />

artist group figureheaded by<br />

Gustav Klimt. But when <strong>the</strong> city<br />

fa<strong>the</strong>rs saw <strong>the</strong> designs <strong>the</strong>y withdrew<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fer <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original site<br />

on <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse, and only gave<br />

approval <strong>for</strong> a“temporary building<br />

that was to last no more than ten<br />

years”. That was in 1898. Today <strong>the</strong><br />

Secession building is regarded as a<br />

key work <strong>of</strong> Viennese Art Nouveau<br />

or Jugendstil, in particular thanks<br />

to <strong>the</strong> golden floral dome affectionately<br />

known as <strong>the</strong> “cabbage”. It is<br />

now one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’smost frequently<br />

photographed buildings.<br />

Viennese Modernism and Modernism in Vienna9<br />

Franz Xaver Messerschmidt (1736-1783),<br />

Zweiter Schnabelkopf. Messerschmidt<br />

was apr<strong>of</strong>essor at <strong>the</strong> Vienna Academy<br />

from 1769 to 1774 and created afamous<br />

series <strong>of</strong> 69 “character heads”. Fifty-four<br />

have survived with sixteen original heads<br />

and thirteen plaster casts in <strong>the</strong> Belvedere<br />

collection.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> “Jonas Reindl” (reindl: Viennese<br />

<strong>for</strong> “cooking pot”). Franz Jonas<br />

was Mayor <strong>of</strong> Vienna when this pioneering<br />

public transport exchange<br />

was opened in 1961. <strong>The</strong> tramway<br />

loop and underpass below <strong>the</strong> Ring<br />

helped acquaint Vienna with <strong>the</strong><br />

idea <strong>of</strong> an underground rail system.<br />

<strong>The</strong> shape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> entry ramp reminded<br />

<strong>the</strong> Viennese <strong>of</strong> acasserole<br />

dish. Today <strong>the</strong> Schottentor station<br />

is a protected historical structure<br />

and around 154,000 passengers use<br />

it <strong>every</strong> day.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> “Dreimäderlhaus” (<strong>The</strong> House<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Three Girls). Awealthy Viennese<br />

family with three attractive<br />

daughters engaged <strong>the</strong> young composer<br />

Franz Schubert as amusic tutor.Asaresult<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> at Mölkersteig<br />

1 became a meeting place<br />

<strong>for</strong> Viennese art-lovers, and <strong>the</strong><br />

vivacious young ladies apparently<br />

became popular muses <strong>for</strong> artists.<br />

This was all too much <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> prim<br />

and proper Viennese at <strong>the</strong> beginning<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> nineteenth century. <strong>The</strong><br />

magic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ladies has survived,<br />

along with <strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> that was built<br />

in 1803 on asection <strong>of</strong> Vienna’scity<br />

walls.<br />

Museums at Night. “Vienna, anight in<br />

october and almost 200,000 visitors<br />

at around 100 cultural institutions including<br />

star attractions such as <strong>the</strong> Albertina,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Kunsthistorisches and <strong>the</strong><br />

Natural history Museum as well as<br />

specialist collections like <strong>the</strong> Imperial<br />

Furniture Collection or <strong>the</strong> Funeral<br />

Museum and Torture Museum. <strong>The</strong><br />

long Night <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museums.”


<strong>The</strong> “Markart style”, named after <strong>the</strong><br />

painter Hans Makart (1840–1884),<br />

is not only <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> an artistic<br />

movement, it is also synonymous<br />

with <strong>the</strong> spirit <strong>of</strong> late 19 th -century<br />

Vienna.<br />

Pomp, plush and abit on top –this<br />

sums up <strong>the</strong> <strong>life</strong> and work <strong>of</strong> aman<br />

who left an indelible mark on Austrian<br />

art in <strong>the</strong> second half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

19 th century. Makart is widely regarded<br />

as <strong>the</strong> key painter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse<br />

period. Aversatile decorative<br />

artist, successful businessman and<br />

bon vivant, Markart embodied <strong>the</strong><br />

spirit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gründerzeit era. <strong>The</strong> Belvedere<br />

is showing a representative<br />

cross-section <strong>of</strong> his work from June to<br />

october 2011.<br />

Makart, who headed <strong>the</strong> school <strong>of</strong><br />

historical painting at <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />

Academy <strong>of</strong> Fine Arts from 1878,<br />

was heavily influenced by Titian and<br />

Rubens. “Drama, baby!” could have<br />

been his personal motto, as <strong>every</strong>thing<br />

he did had astrong <strong>the</strong>atrical<br />

bent. In 1879 Makart’s reputation<br />

earned him aspecial honor when he<br />

was entrusted with <strong>the</strong> organization<br />

<strong>of</strong> alavish procession –attended by<br />

several hundred people in opulent<br />

costumes –tomark <strong>the</strong> silver wedding<br />

anniversary <strong>of</strong> Emperor Franz<br />

Joseph and Empress Sisi. <strong>The</strong>re is<br />

a statue commemorating <strong>the</strong> artist,<br />

who died in 1884, in <strong>the</strong> Stadtpark<br />

on Parkring. Makart’s influence on<br />

Vienna (and later artists such as<br />

Gustav Klimt) is in evidence along<br />

<strong>the</strong> entire length <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse<br />

boulevard.<br />

Hans Makart’sportraits, such as this one <strong>of</strong> his<br />

favorite sitter,his cousin Clothide Beer (ca. 1874),<br />

shaped <strong>the</strong> ideal <strong>of</strong> female beauty <strong>of</strong> his age.<br />

A<br />

STREET,<br />

AN ERA,<br />

A FEElING<br />

This renaissance costume, designed by Hans<br />

Makart and Franz Gaul (shown today at<br />

<strong>the</strong> Austrian <strong>The</strong>ater Museum) was worn<br />

by Charlotte Wolter at <strong>the</strong> H<strong>of</strong>burg<strong>the</strong>ater<br />

on 10 May 1879. <strong>The</strong> actress was famed <strong>for</strong><br />

her costumes which were always her own.<br />

Makart’sportrait <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> celebrated diva –<br />

currently in <strong>the</strong> Wien Museum –became an<br />

icon <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Viennese belle époque.


PAlACE lIVING,<br />

ThEN AND NoW<br />

Once home to <strong>the</strong> nobility and <strong>the</strong><br />

rich, most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> palaces that line <strong>the</strong><br />

Ringstrasse now serve very different<br />

purposes, as illustrated by <strong>the</strong> examples<br />

below.<br />

on 20 December 1857, Emperor<br />

Franz Joseph approved <strong>the</strong> construction<br />

<strong>of</strong> anew showpiece boulevard<br />

<strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> capital. In <strong>the</strong> decades that followed<br />

<strong>the</strong> opulent Ringstrasse boulevard<br />

took shape. This also triggered<br />

a rush among <strong>the</strong> aristocracy and<br />

upper echelons <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> middle class<br />

to be among <strong>the</strong> first to build agrand<br />

<strong>house</strong> at this new top address. And<br />

<strong>the</strong>re <strong>the</strong>y remained until <strong>the</strong> end<br />

<strong>of</strong> empire called time on <strong>the</strong>ir dolce<br />

vita. <strong>The</strong> original owners are mostly<br />

long <strong>for</strong>gotten, but <strong>the</strong> palaces are<br />

still standing, and now have awide<br />

variety <strong>of</strong> occupants.<br />

Archduke Ludwig Viktor’s palace<br />

on <strong>the</strong> corner <strong>of</strong> Schubertring and<br />

Schwarzenbergplatz is today home to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Kasino am Schwarzenbergplatz.<br />

Constructed between 1863 and 1866,<br />

<strong>the</strong> building now <strong>house</strong>s one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

stages <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> famed Vienna Burg<strong>the</strong>ater.<br />

Astone’sthrow away, at Schwarzenbergplatz<br />

2, is <strong>the</strong> Palais Wiener von<br />

Welten.<strong>The</strong> space in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> palace<br />

on <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse is particularly<br />

interesting as it contains Vienna’s<br />

smallest vineyard, which measures<br />

just afew square meters. Each year<br />

NATURE AND ART,<br />

SIDE BY SIDE<br />

<strong>The</strong> imposing twin buildings that<br />

stand opposite one ano<strong>the</strong>r on <strong>the</strong><br />

Ring are among <strong>the</strong> boulevard’s best<br />

known landmarks. <strong>The</strong> Natural history<br />

Museum (NhM) and Kunsthistorisches<br />

Museum (KhM), built to<br />

plans by architects Gottfried Semper<br />

and Karl Freiherr von hasenauer,<br />

opened in 1889 and 1891, respectively.<br />

<strong>The</strong> 16 million bricks used to<br />

build <strong>the</strong> Natural history Museum<br />

were all supplied by <strong>the</strong> famous Drasche<br />

brickworks in <strong>the</strong> south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

City.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se two museums are an Aladdin’s<br />

cave <strong>of</strong> treasures. here are just afew<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highlights:<br />

Once astock exchange<br />

trading room and <strong>the</strong>n<br />

asports venue, today<br />

<strong>the</strong> Grosser Ferstelsaal<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Palais Ferstel is<br />

one <strong>of</strong> Vienna’sfinest<br />

halls.<br />

<strong>the</strong> mayor <strong>of</strong> Vienna harvests <strong>the</strong><br />

grapes in person; <strong>the</strong>y yield around<br />

50 bottles <strong>of</strong> wine.<br />

Palais Wer<strong>the</strong>im (built from 1864–<br />

1868) is directly opposite. In 1910 it<br />

was trans<strong>for</strong>med into an <strong>of</strong>fice and<br />

residential building, and in 1977 it<br />

welcomed <strong>the</strong> first Austrian branch<br />

<strong>of</strong> an international burger chain.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>for</strong>mer Palais Lieben-Auspitz on<br />

Dr.-Karl-lueger-Ring, whose <strong>for</strong>mer<br />

residents include writer Berta Zuckerkandl,<br />

is definitely worth taking time<br />

over.<strong>The</strong> ground floor is home to <strong>the</strong><br />

famous Café Landtmann, <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />

place <strong>for</strong> adelicious pastry washed<br />

down with a mélange or perhaps<br />

a kleiner brauner. Famous patrons<br />

over <strong>the</strong> years include Gustav Mahler<br />

and Sigmund Freud. With wonderful<br />

views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Burg<strong>the</strong>ater and City<br />

hall it is ideal <strong>for</strong> aquick break during<br />

atour <strong>of</strong> Ringstrasse.<br />

www.landtmann.at<br />

•<strong>The</strong> KhM has 12 paintings by<br />

Dutch Renaissance painter Pieter<br />

Bruegel <strong>the</strong> Elder –<strong>the</strong> world‘s largest<br />

and most important collection <strong>of</strong><br />

his works.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> Collection <strong>of</strong> Greek and Roman<br />

antiquities, featuring sculptures,<br />

bronzes, glassware and<br />

golden treasures from <strong>the</strong> third<br />

century BC to 1,000 AD, is one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> most important <strong>of</strong> its kind. <strong>The</strong><br />

KhM’s Egyptian and Near Eastern<br />

Collection, with its holdings <strong>of</strong> antiquities<br />

from <strong>the</strong> old Kingdom,<br />

is among <strong>the</strong> largest <strong>of</strong> its kind in<br />

<strong>the</strong> world. <strong>The</strong> NhM has one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> largest collections <strong>of</strong> “types” <strong>of</strong><br />

any museum in <strong>the</strong> world. Atype<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most striking buildings on <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse: <strong>the</strong> State Opera<br />

House, built between 1861–1869 to plans by August<br />

Sicard von Sicardsburg and Eduard van der Nüll.<br />

is defined as aspecimen or series <strong>of</strong><br />

specimens on which ataxonomic<br />

species or subspecies is based –in<br />

some ways comparable to <strong>the</strong> international<br />

prototype meter bar. <strong>The</strong><br />

NhM’s millipede collection alone<br />

comprises more than 2,000 types.<br />

While not all specimens are on display,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are available to researchers<br />

all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> 50 perfectly executed, true-to<strong>life</strong><br />

glass models <strong>of</strong> invertebrates<br />

completed by leopold and Rudolf<br />

Blaschka <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> NhM between <strong>the</strong><br />

1860s and <strong>the</strong> 1930s are aunique<br />

highlight.<br />

www.khm.at,<br />

www.nhm-wien.ac.at<br />

Traditionally held<br />

in May at City Hall,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Life Ball is a<br />

celebration <strong>of</strong> <strong>life</strong> and<br />

love. Each year around<br />

40,000 people attend<br />

<strong>the</strong> opening ceremony<br />

which takes on <strong>the</strong><br />

section <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ring<br />

between City Hall and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Burg<strong>the</strong>ater.<br />

VIENNA’S<br />

STUNNING<br />

TRAFFIC ARTERY<br />

Over <strong>the</strong> years, <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse has<br />

become one <strong>of</strong> Vienna’s busiest thoroughfares.<br />

1868: <strong>The</strong> first Wiener Tramway-Gesellschaft<br />

horse drawn streetcars start<br />

running from Stubenring to Schottentor.Itonly<br />

takes ayear <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> service<br />

to circle <strong>the</strong> whole Ring.<br />

1898: <strong>The</strong> tram line is electrified. As<br />

<strong>the</strong> Emperor refuses to allow <strong>the</strong> Ring<br />

to be defaced by overhead power<br />

lines <strong>the</strong> locomotive cars have to be<br />

battery powered. 1901: Aground-level<br />

power supply is introduced.<br />

1915: overhead power lines are installed<br />

after all, as batteries and power<br />

rails turn out to cause too many<br />

operational problems.<br />

1926: <strong>The</strong> steady growth <strong>of</strong> car traffic<br />

necessitates <strong>the</strong> installation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

city’s first traffic lights at <strong>the</strong> opera<br />

crossroads (intersection <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse<br />

and Kärntner Strasse).<br />

“<strong>The</strong> Ringstrasse<br />

shows how important<br />

a good backdrop<br />

can be when<br />

it comes to largescale<br />

parades.<br />

Events such as <strong>the</strong><br />

Rainbow Parade on<br />

2 July, <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />

City Marathon in<br />

April with 30,000<br />

runners, <strong>the</strong> Street<br />

Festival in August<br />

with 10,000 dance<br />

lovers, and <strong>the</strong> harley<br />

Days on 14 May<br />

with 1,500 bikers<br />

are truly unique.”<br />

one street, one era, one feeling<br />

11<br />

1929: <strong>The</strong> city’sfirst pedestrian crossing<br />

is marked out at this intersection<br />

as well as at <strong>the</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ring and<br />

Wollzeile.<br />

1955: <strong>The</strong> opernpassage becomes <strong>the</strong><br />

city’sfirst pedestrian underpass.<br />

1972: <strong>The</strong> Ringstrasse becomes oneway,<br />

with traffic traveling clockwise.<br />

2009: <strong>The</strong> Vienna Ring Tram is<br />

launched. This special tram service<br />

<strong>for</strong> tourists circles <strong>the</strong> Ring <strong>every</strong><br />

half hour, taking just over 23 minutes<br />

<strong>for</strong> afull circuit. Passengers are<br />

given background in<strong>for</strong>mation on <strong>the</strong><br />

various sights via monitors and headphones.<br />

<strong>The</strong> audio guides are in seven<br />

languages (English, French, German,<br />

Italian, Japanese, Russian and<br />

Spanish). AViennese dialect version<br />

has also recently been introduced.<br />

A fiacre is <strong>the</strong> perfect way to explore<br />

<strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse at leisure. Pick-up<br />

points <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> famous horse-drawn<br />

carriages include <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg and<br />

Stephansplatz.


DISCoVER<br />

VIENNA<br />

... BY BUS<br />

AND TRAM<br />

•Want to explore all <strong>the</strong> main sights<br />

<strong>the</strong> easy way, by bus? hop-on,<br />

hop-<strong>of</strong>f buses are <strong>the</strong> answer.<br />

www.viennasightseeing.at<br />

www.redbuscitytours.at<br />

www.cityrama.at<br />

•like to experience Vienna’sshowpiece<br />

boulevard aboard a streetcar,<br />

with an audiovisual guide?<br />

Take <strong>the</strong> Vienna Ring Tram.<br />

www.wienerlinien.at<br />

•Want to discover contemporary<br />

architecture from <strong>the</strong> com<strong>for</strong>t <strong>of</strong> a<br />

luxury 15-seater minibus with onboard<br />

crew and catering? Take <strong>the</strong><br />

Donau City to T-Center tour from<br />

<strong>the</strong> Architekturzentrum Wien.<br />

www.azw.at<br />

... BY BoAT<br />

•like to cruise <strong>the</strong> Danube and <strong>the</strong><br />

Danube Canal? Take a sightseeing<br />

tour on board <strong>the</strong> DDSG Blue<br />

Danube cruisers (April–october).<br />

<strong>The</strong>med cruises with live music<br />

and buffet available.<br />

www.ddsg-blue-danube.at<br />

•Fancy atrip on <strong>the</strong> oldest Danube<br />

passenger ship?<strong>The</strong> MS ANA entered<br />

service in 1894, as apleasure<br />

cruiser <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Viennese nobility.<br />

Available <strong>for</strong> hire today:<br />

www.museumsschiff.at/rundfahrten.html<br />

•Want to explore <strong>the</strong> scenery <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Donau Auen national park? Travel<br />

direct from <strong>the</strong> city centre aboard<br />

<strong>the</strong> National Park Boat (May–<br />

october).<br />

www.wien-vienna.at/bootstaxi1.<br />

php<br />

•like to row down <strong>the</strong> old Danube?<br />

Boat hire until 11 p.m. (wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

permitting); romantic full moon<br />

trips.<br />

www.alte-donau.info<br />

•Dream <strong>of</strong> discovering Bratislava?<br />

Journey from Vienna to Bratislava<br />

on <strong>the</strong> Twin City liner in just<br />

75 minutes.<br />

www.twincityliner.com<br />

... oN WhEElS<br />

•Citybikes are available from more<br />

than 60 docking stations throughout<br />

<strong>the</strong> city –and <strong>the</strong> first hour<br />

is free <strong>of</strong> charge! All you need is<br />

acredit card or aCitybike Tourist<br />

Card.<br />

www.citybikewien.at<br />

•FAXI is <strong>the</strong> environmentallyfriendly<br />

bike taxi that cuts through<br />

<strong>the</strong> city in double quick time.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se rickshaw-like vehicles can<br />

also be booked <strong>for</strong> city sightseeing<br />

trips.<br />

www.faxi.at<br />

•Experience Vienna at aleisurely<br />

2.7 kilometers per hour on <strong>the</strong><br />

Giant Ferris Wheel.<strong>The</strong> 64.75-meter-tall<br />

wheel <strong>of</strong>fers unique views<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city.<br />

www.wienerriesenrad.com<br />

... BY hoRSE<br />

AND CARRIAGE<br />

•Vienna tours unchanged since<br />

imperial days start from six fiacre<br />

stands in <strong>the</strong> historic city center.<br />

<strong>The</strong> trips take 20 (city center only)<br />

or 40 minutes (around <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse<br />

and through <strong>the</strong> old town).<br />

Custom tours, and awheelchair<br />

friendly fiacre are also available.<br />

... oN FooT AND<br />

WITh ATWIST<br />

•Modern<br />

Empress Elisabeth and Mozart are<br />

your guides on acity tour with a<br />

difference. Take a 35-stop tour<br />

<strong>of</strong> Vienna with aspecial iGuide<br />

pocket computer to show you <strong>the</strong><br />

way. Sisi and Mozart <strong>walk</strong> you<br />

through <strong>the</strong> city, sharing <strong>the</strong>ir take<br />

on Vienna. <strong>The</strong> tour lasts around<br />

three hours, including <strong>walk</strong>ing between<br />

features.<br />

http://de.itour.de<br />

•Macabre<br />

“From Imperial to Paupers’ Funerals”<br />

tour gives an insight into <strong>the</strong><br />

city’s morbid side. <strong>The</strong> magnificent<br />

sarcophaguses <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Imperial<br />

Vault and atour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bestattungsmuseum<br />

(Funeral Museum)<br />

are among <strong>the</strong> highlights. <strong>of</strong> special<br />

interest: ahatch-bottom c<strong>of</strong>fin<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 18 th century.<br />

www.stadtfuehrungen.at<br />

•Seamy<br />

<strong>The</strong> Spittelberg district outside<br />

<strong>the</strong> old city walls was once better<br />

known as a“temple <strong>of</strong> Venus” –<br />

58 <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 138 buildings <strong>house</strong>d<br />

dive bars. <strong>The</strong> area’s trans<strong>for</strong>mation<br />

from ared-light district to one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most enchanting parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

city is documented in <strong>the</strong> “Den <strong>of</strong><br />

Iniquity to Suburban Gem” tour.<br />

www.stadtfuehrungen.at<br />

•Seedy<br />

Josefine Mutzenbacher was <strong>the</strong><br />

greatest courtesan <strong>of</strong> 19 th century<br />

Vienna, albeit only as afictional<br />

figure. her “memoirs” are attributed<br />

to Felix Salten, author <strong>of</strong><br />

world best-seller Bambi. This special<br />

tour (unsuitable <strong>for</strong> children<br />

under 14) takes alook at Vienna’s<br />

seedier side.<br />

www.wienfuehrung.com<br />

•Mystical<br />

<strong>The</strong> Da Vinci Code in Vienna? <strong>The</strong><br />

city is full <strong>of</strong> myths and legends<br />

that are just waiting to be uncovered.<br />

Amosaic copy <strong>of</strong> Da Vinci’s<br />

last Supper with all its secret messages;<br />

stories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> holy Grail; secret<br />

symbols at <strong>the</strong> ca<strong>the</strong>dral, and<br />

<strong>the</strong> blood line <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> habsburgs are<br />

just some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highlights <strong>of</strong> this<br />

tour.<br />

www.wienfuehrung.com


ANEW TAKE oN<br />

VIENNA?<br />

•Dancing<br />

learn (or perfect) <strong>the</strong> Viennese<br />

waltz in an intensive course in<br />

its city <strong>of</strong> origin: <strong>the</strong> Rueff dance<br />

school runs waltz courses <strong>for</strong><br />

visitors virtually <strong>every</strong> day. Even<br />

one-time students are welcomed<br />

with open arms. lessons in German<br />

and English, no registration<br />

required.<br />

www.vienna.info<br />

•Playing<br />

<strong>The</strong> maze at Schönbrunn has been<br />

afavorite spot <strong>for</strong> young and old to<br />

play since <strong>the</strong> days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> baroque<br />

era. Completed in 1720, <strong>the</strong> maze<br />

was progressively scaled back until<br />

it was abandoned in 1892. In<br />

1999 it reopened with an area <strong>of</strong><br />

2,700 square meters –agreat place<br />

<strong>for</strong> visitors <strong>of</strong> all ages to explore<br />

and have agood time.<br />

www.kaiserkinder.at<br />

•C<strong>of</strong>fee tasting<br />

learn <strong>the</strong> high art <strong>of</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> drinking<br />

at Schönbrunn Palace. Regular<br />

<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> tasting events are held amid<br />

<strong>the</strong> regal splendor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> orangery.<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essional <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> tasters share<br />

brewing and serving secrets.<br />

www.lavera.at<br />

VIENNA CARD<br />

over 210 discounts and unlimited<br />

travel on <strong>the</strong> city’s underground,<br />

bus and tram network <strong>for</strong><br />

72 hours –your personal pass <strong>for</strong><br />

just EUR 18.50.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Vienna Card is <strong>the</strong> ideal way<br />

to discover <strong>the</strong> city. It includes unlimited<br />

travel on <strong>the</strong> Wiener linien<br />

public transportation network <strong>for</strong><br />

72 hours, and over 210 discounts<br />

and concessions at selected museums,<br />

tourist attractions, exhibitions,<br />

<strong>the</strong>aters, concerts, stores, cafés, restaurants<br />

and heuriger wine taverns.<br />

<strong>The</strong> 120-page coupon booklet that<br />

comes free with <strong>the</strong> Vienna Card is<br />

packed with in<strong>for</strong>mation on how<br />

to get <strong>the</strong> most out <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />

Available <strong>for</strong> EUR 18.50 from <strong>the</strong><br />

tourist in<strong>for</strong>mation <strong>of</strong>fice, hotels,<br />

Wiener linien ticket counters and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Vienna Card website,<br />

www.wienkarte.at<br />

INFoRMATIoN<br />

Online<br />

•www.vienna.info<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficial web travel guide <strong>for</strong><br />

Vienna, features in<strong>for</strong>mation on<br />

sights, events and online hotel<br />

reservations<br />

•Mobile internet:<br />

m.vienna.info<br />

•Facebook:<br />

www.facebook.com/<br />

ViennaTouristBoard<br />

•YouTube:<br />

www.youtube.com/ViennaTB<br />

•www.vienna.at<br />

<strong>The</strong> Vienna City<br />

Council website<br />

Telephone/e-mail<br />

•Wien-hotels &Info<br />

Tel. (+43 1) 24 555<br />

Fax (+43 1) 24 555-666<br />

9a.m. –7p.m. daily<br />

E-mail: info@vienna.info<br />

Face to face<br />

•Tourist Info Vienna<br />

Corner <strong>of</strong> Albertinaplatz and<br />

Maysedergasse,<br />

1010 Vienna,<br />

behind <strong>the</strong> State opera <strong>house</strong><br />

9a.m. to 7p.m. daily<br />

In<strong>for</strong>mation, hotel reservations,<br />

Vienna Card, city maps, brochures,<br />

pamphlets, souvenirs.<br />

Ticket sales by Jirsa ticketing<br />

<strong>of</strong>fices.<br />

•Tourist in<strong>for</strong>mation at Vienna<br />

International Airport<br />

Arrivals hall<br />

6a.m. to 11 p.m. daily<br />

CREDITS<br />

Published by<br />

Vienna Tourist Board<br />

obere Augartenstrasse 40,<br />

1020 Vienna<br />

www.vienna.info<br />

Idea and editorial:<br />

Vienna Tourist Board,<br />

Andrea Kostner; Partners in PR<br />

Copy<br />

Paul Ferstel, Susanne Kapeller,<br />

Susanna Nikel, Susanne<br />

Schneeberger,Robert Seydel<br />

Picture editor<br />

Anna-Elisabeth Menz<br />

Art direction and layout<br />

Christian Begusch (JvM/Donau)<br />

PICTURE<br />

CREDITS<br />

Cover<br />

WTV/Peter Rigaud<br />

Page 2<br />

WTV/F3<br />

Page 3<br />

(l-r)<br />

WTV/Claudio Alessandri, WTV/KhM/Peter Rigaud, WTV/<br />

lois lammerhuber and MAXUM, all o<strong>the</strong>r images: WTV/<br />

Peter Rigaud<br />

Page 4<br />

(l-r)<br />

WTV/Peter Rigaud, WTV/Gerhard Weinkirn, WTV/ Karl<br />

Thomas, MAK/Georg Mayer<br />

Page 5<br />

(l-r)<br />

Bundesmobilienverwaltung/h<strong>of</strong>mobiliendepot/Fritz Simak,<br />

WTV/Peter Rigaud, Blühendes Konfekt, Xocolat/Coppeneur,<br />

WTV/Peter Rigaud, WTV/Peter Koller,WTV/Peter Koller<br />

Page 6<br />

WTV/Peter Rigaud, WTV/hertha hurnaus<br />

Page 7<br />

(l-r)<br />

WTV/hertha hurnaus, WTV/MAXUM, SKB/lois lammerhuber,WTV/Willfried<br />

Gredler-oxenbauer,Bundesgärten<br />

Schönbrunn<br />

Page 8<br />

Egon Schiele, Four Trees, 1917/Belvedere, Vienna, Egon<br />

Schiele, Self-Portrait Pulling Cheek /1910 Albertina, Vienna<br />

Page 9<br />

WTV/Peter Koller,WTV/Peter Koller,WTV/hedwig Zdrazil,<br />

Valie Export, Einkreisung, 1976/©VBK, Vienna, 2010, Eva<br />

Schlegel, In Between, 2009/©VBK, Wien, 2010, Kiki Kogelnik<br />

mit loverboy, Atelier New York, ca. 1965, Kiki Kogelnik<br />

Foundation Wien New York, ©Kiki Kogelnik, Birgit Jürgenssen,<br />

untitled, 1974 ©Nachlass Birgit Jürgenssen/VBK, Vienna, 2010,<br />

Franz Xaver Messerschmidt, zweiter Schnabelkopf ©Belvedere,<br />

Vienna<br />

Page 10<br />

hans Markart, portrait <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> artist’scousin Clothilde Beer,<br />

1880, Belvedere, Vienna, Austrian <strong>The</strong>atre Museum (KhM with<br />

MVK and öTM)<br />

Page 11<br />

(l-r)<br />

Palais Ferstel, <strong>life</strong> Ball/Jürgen hammerschmied, <strong>life</strong> Ball/<br />

Andreas h. Bitesnich, WTV/F3, WTV/Karl Thomas<br />

Pages 12/13:<br />

WTV/Popp &hackner<br />

Page 14<br />

WTV/ Popp &hackner,WTV/Claudio Alessandri<br />

Page 15<br />

(l-r)<br />

WTV/Karl Thomas, WTV/Gerhard Weinkirn, WTV/Peter<br />

Rigaud, WTV/Robert ostmark, WTV/Peter Rigaud, Staud’s/ Johannes<br />

Kittel, WTV/lukas Beck, stock.chng/Image ID: 1266300<br />

Page 16<br />

Schloß Schönbrunn Kultur-und Betriebsgesmbh, WTV/<br />

MAXUM<br />

Page 17<br />

(l-r)<br />

Children’sboots worn by Empress Elisabeth/Schloß Schönbrunn<br />

Kultur-und Betriebsgesmbh., WTV/Peter Rigaud, ÖW/<br />

Wiesenh<strong>of</strong>er,ÖW/Trumler,Albertina, Wien, WTV/Gerhard<br />

Weinkirn<br />

Page 18<br />

lukas Beck<br />

Page 19<br />

(l-r)<br />

WTV/Bryan Duffy, WTV/Karl Thomas, WTV/Karl Thomas,<br />

Ismael Ivo, ImPulsTanz, WTV/heinz Angermayr,WTV/Willfried<br />

Gredler-ochsenbauer,www.fotoschuster.com<br />

Page 20<br />

Both images WTV/Peter Rigaud<br />

Page 21<br />

lobmeyr,Peter Rigaud, Foto/Sam Scott Schiavo, WTV/Peter<br />

Rigaud, FSB/Eoos, mano design, MAK/Gerald Zugmann, mano<br />

design, Marlowe Design, WTV/Robert omark<br />

Page 22<br />

WTV/ heinz Angermayr,WTV/MAXUM<br />

Page 23<br />

WTV/lois lammerhuber,WTV/MAXUM


VIENNA<br />

TASTES...<br />

…<strong>of</strong>young wines and<br />

old traditions<br />

Wine is as much apart <strong>of</strong> Vienna<br />

as apple strudel or Sachertorte. It<br />

shapes <strong>the</strong> cityscape and is <strong>the</strong> focus<br />

<strong>of</strong> countless events each year.<br />

With some 700 hectares <strong>of</strong> vineyards<br />

within <strong>the</strong> city limits, wine is<br />

central to <strong>the</strong> Viennese way <strong>of</strong> <strong>life</strong>.<br />

local wine is traditionally <strong>the</strong> preserve<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s wine taverns, or<br />

heurigers. only abona fide heuriger<br />

that serves Viennese wine from its<br />

own vineyard is permitted to hang<br />

a green sprig <strong>of</strong> pine outside and<br />

display <strong>the</strong> words “Ausg’steckt”<br />

on aboard to show that it is open.<br />

Vienna is largely known <strong>for</strong> white<br />

wines, and Grüner Veltliner is <strong>the</strong><br />

most common variety. <strong>The</strong> Viennese<br />

use it to make <strong>the</strong>ir beloved “Gspritzter”,<br />

or white wine spritzers, which<br />

is simply half aglass <strong>of</strong> wine, topped<br />

up with sparkling water. When <strong>the</strong><br />

temperatures soar it is time to switch<br />

to a “Sommerspritzer”, with more<br />

water than wine –<strong>the</strong> perfect excuse<br />

<strong>for</strong> ordering that extra glass …<br />

AVIENNESE<br />

INSTITUTIoN<br />

<strong>The</strong> Gemischter Satz or blended wine<br />

is aspecialty that can only be found<br />

in Vienna. It stems from traditional<br />

growing methods that go back along<br />

way. In <strong>the</strong> past, different varieties <strong>of</strong><br />

wine would be planted side by side to<br />

reduce <strong>the</strong> risk <strong>of</strong> damage by pests or<br />

bad wea<strong>the</strong>r.<strong>The</strong> result was aunique<br />

<strong>house</strong> wine. Today ageneration <strong>of</strong><br />

young wine growers is breathing<br />

new <strong>life</strong> into this tradition and taking<br />

<strong>the</strong> Gemischter Satz to new heights.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se historic techniques are now<br />

being employed in about one-tenth <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> city‘s total winegrowing area.<br />

This is <strong>the</strong> sign that<br />

local wine from <strong>the</strong><br />

grower’s own vineyard<br />

is<br />

on sale at <strong>the</strong> tavern.


oFF To ThE<br />

hEURIGER FoR A<br />

GlASS oF WINE<br />

<strong>The</strong> heuriger is aViennese institution.<br />

<strong>The</strong> recipe <strong>for</strong> success is wine<br />

from <strong>the</strong> tavern’s own vineyards,<br />

delicious snacks and abeautiful garden.<br />

Patrons come from all <strong>walk</strong>s <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>life</strong>, from families with small children<br />

to pensioners, students and<br />

captains <strong>of</strong> industry.<br />

•Traditional: Kierlinger is aheuriger<br />

cast in <strong>the</strong> traditional mold. Ahistoric<br />

setting and aconvivial atmosphere<br />

in <strong>the</strong> 19 th district.<br />

www.kierlinger.at<br />

•Chic: Wiltschko in Mauer is anextgeneration<br />

heuriger with aloungelike<br />

feel (23 rd district).<br />

www.weinbau-wiltschko.at<br />

•Organic: Weingut hajszan on <strong>the</strong><br />

Nussberg hill in <strong>the</strong> 19 th district<br />

serves its own organic wine.<br />

www.hajszan.com<br />

•Purist: Clear lines, plain design<br />

and light snacks in <strong>the</strong> heuriger<br />

tradition at Göbel in Stammersdorf<br />

(21 st district).<br />

www.weinbaugoebel.at<br />

•Rustic: heuriger Wolff in <strong>the</strong><br />

19 th district is apicture <strong>of</strong> old-world,<br />

cozy charm, with atiled oven, candlelit<br />

tables and adelightful garden.<br />

www.wienerheuriger.at<br />

•Young: Zum Zawodsky in <strong>the</strong><br />

19 th district is popular among a<br />

young, urbane clientele. Beautiful<br />

views <strong>of</strong> Vienna. www.zawodsky.at<br />

WINE AND<br />

SNAIlS<br />

Vienna has along tradition <strong>of</strong> snail<br />

breeding. <strong>The</strong> Austrian capital was<br />

aMecca <strong>for</strong> lovers <strong>of</strong> escargots <strong>right</strong><br />

up until <strong>the</strong> early 20 th century. Snails<br />

were aparticularly popular lenten<br />

food. <strong>The</strong>re was even aspecial escargot<br />

market behind <strong>the</strong> Peterskirche.<br />

Rumored to have aphrodisiac properties,<br />

escargots from <strong>the</strong> vineyards<br />

were also dubbed “Viennese oysters.”<br />

Market traders sold boiled and<br />

candied snails as snacks, and <strong>the</strong>y<br />

also came deep fried, or wrapped in<br />

bacon and served with weinkraut<br />

(sauerkraut with apples).<br />

A number <strong>of</strong> ambitious cooks are<br />

now bringing <strong>the</strong> escargot back on<br />

to <strong>the</strong> city’smenus. Snail tastings are<br />

just one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highlights <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> annual<br />

Genussfestival held at <strong>the</strong> Stadtpark<br />

in early May. (Not only) <strong>for</strong> escargot<br />

aficionados:<br />

•Artner am Franziskanerplatz:<br />

www.artner.co.at<br />

•Stadtgasthaus Eisvogel:<br />

www.stadtgasthaus-eisvogel.at<br />

•Steirereck im Stadtpark:<br />

www.steirereck.at<br />

•Schwarzes Kameel:<br />

www.kameel.at<br />

•Gaumenspiel:<br />

www.gaumenspiel.at<br />

•Restaurant Vestibül:<br />

www.vestibuel.at<br />

DIVERSITY AT ThE<br />

NASChMARKT<br />

Although vegetables play something<br />

<strong>of</strong> a supporting role in traditional<br />

Viennese cuisine, enough fresh produce<br />

is grown in <strong>the</strong> city to feed <strong>the</strong><br />

entire population if need be. Agricultural<br />

land devoted to fruit, vegetable,<br />

wine and cereal growing occupies<br />

some 17 percent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

city. <strong>The</strong> market gardeners supply cucumbers,<br />

tomatoes, bell peppers and<br />

lettuce to Vienna’s markets, where<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are sold alongside specialties<br />

sourced from countries around <strong>the</strong><br />

globe. Vienna’s markets are awhole<br />

world in <strong>the</strong>mselves, and always<br />

worth avisit. <strong>The</strong> best known is <strong>the</strong><br />

Naschmarkt. With around 120 stalls,<br />

bars and restaurants this market has<br />

it all, from Viennese to Indian and<br />

from Vietnamese to Italian.<br />

<strong>The</strong> local population’s love <strong>of</strong> food<br />

can take strange <strong>for</strong>ms. Where else<br />

would an orchestra come up with<br />

<strong>the</strong> idea <strong>of</strong> per<strong>for</strong>ming on flutes made<br />

from carrots, bass drums fashioned<br />

from pumpkins and celeriac bongos?<br />

<strong>The</strong> 1 st Vienna Vegetable Orchestra,<br />

<strong>for</strong>med in 1998, is certainly good <strong>for</strong> a<br />

surprise. www.gemueseorchester.org<br />

MAPPING ThE<br />

WoRlD oF<br />

ThE WIENER<br />

SChNITZEl<br />

When it comes to deep frying, no one<br />

can hold acandle to Viennese cuisine.<br />

<strong>The</strong> wiener schnitzel is acase in<br />

point. Figlmüller dishes up <strong>the</strong> city’s<br />

biggest schnitzel –itis34centimeters<br />

across on average, and contains<br />

250 grams <strong>of</strong> pork. oK, atrue wiener<br />

schnitzel is actually made <strong>of</strong> veal,<br />

but all <strong>the</strong> schnitzels at Figlmüller<br />

are tenderized by hand, and specialist<br />

schnitzel beaters are hired <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

purpose. An installation by artist Ken<br />

lum in <strong>the</strong> Karlsplatz Passage (www.<br />

koer.or.at) reveals how many schnitzels<br />

have been eaten in <strong>the</strong> city since<br />

<strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year on an lED display<br />

that is updated each day. <strong>The</strong><br />

total <strong>for</strong> 2009 reached 21 million.<br />

Viennese cuisine and Vienna’s wines... 15<br />

APPlE STRUDEl<br />

DIPloMA<br />

<strong>The</strong> apple strudel is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bestknown<br />

dishes in <strong>the</strong> Viennese cuisine<br />

repertoire. An apple strudel<br />

master class at Schönbrunn Palace’s<br />

Café Residenz shows how it’s done.<br />

Each year <strong>the</strong> café processes some<br />

1.5 metric tons <strong>of</strong> apples. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />

apple strudel seminars <strong>for</strong> budding<br />

bakers hoping to graduate with adiploma<br />

and <strong>the</strong> title <strong>of</strong> Viennese Strudel<br />

Baker.<br />

www.cafe-residenz.at<br />

“Can wine exude ‘youthful charm’? In Vienna it<br />

can. Each fall <strong>the</strong> ‘Junger Wiener’ provides a<strong>for</strong>etaste<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new vintage. This fruity young wine is<br />

unveiled at various events across <strong>the</strong> capital at <strong>the</strong><br />

end <strong>of</strong> october.highly recommended.”<br />

www.wienerwein.at<br />

Old established<br />

Viennese firm<br />

Staud preserves<br />

fruits<br />

andveg<br />

etables. <strong>The</strong> range<br />

includes<br />

fruity<br />

jams, pickled<br />

vegetables and<br />

syrups. <strong>The</strong><br />

prod-prod- ucts are typically<br />

Viennese, and in<br />

demand all over<br />

<strong>the</strong> world. You<br />

can taste <strong>the</strong>m at<br />

Staud’s Pavillon<br />

at <strong>the</strong> Brunnen- Brunnen-<br />

markt market.


DREAMS<br />

AND REAlITY<br />

<strong>The</strong> fact that Vienna is such alivable<br />

city is perhaps because it strikes exactly<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>right</strong> balance between big<br />

and small –albeit notalways entirely<br />

<strong>of</strong> its own free will.<br />

Schönbrunn Palace and <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg<br />

stand out among all <strong>the</strong> city’s grand<br />

buildings as bastions <strong>of</strong> imperial<br />

power. <strong>The</strong>se mighty and splendid<br />

buildings draw several million visitors<br />

each year. But if <strong>the</strong> imperial<br />

builders had had <strong>the</strong>ir way each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

habsburgs’ residences would have<br />

been still more imposing. Shortage <strong>of</strong><br />

cash ultimately led to <strong>the</strong> conclusion<br />

that sometimes less is more.<br />

If it had been built to <strong>the</strong> original<br />

plans Schönbrunn Palace would<br />

have been larger than Versailles, and<br />

at <strong>the</strong> time this would have been seen<br />

as ademonstration <strong>of</strong> power. For all<br />

<strong>the</strong> centuries-old rivalry between <strong>the</strong><br />

Bourbons and <strong>the</strong> habsburgs, when<br />

it came down to it, <strong>the</strong> habsburgs<br />

were simply too poor. In <strong>the</strong> end<br />

Schönbrunn took on somewhat<br />

more modest dimensions. Ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />

than <strong>the</strong> original 2,300 rooms –as<br />

many as Versailles –itwas designed<br />

<strong>for</strong> amere 1,441. Which hardly mattered.<br />

After all, who was supposed to<br />

live in <strong>the</strong>m? Despite <strong>the</strong> downsizing,<br />

Schönbrunn with its stunning<br />

grounds ranks among <strong>the</strong> most magnificent<br />

palace complexes in Europe.<br />

<strong>The</strong> plans <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg also envisaged<br />

something different –animperial<br />

<strong>for</strong>um. This would have linked<br />

<strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg with <strong>the</strong> Kunsthistorisches<br />

Museum, <strong>the</strong> Natural history<br />

Museum and <strong>the</strong> Imperial stables<br />

(now <strong>the</strong> MuseumsQuartier). Ultimately<br />

just one wing, <strong>the</strong> Neue h<strong>of</strong>burg,<br />

was completed at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

19 th century. It <strong>house</strong>s <strong>the</strong> Austrian<br />

National library and <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />

<strong>of</strong> Ethnology. <strong>The</strong> site <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> picturesque<br />

Volksgarten where locals and<br />

tourists come to relax and admire <strong>the</strong><br />

stunning rose gardens was originally<br />

earmarked <strong>for</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r monumental<br />

building that never left <strong>the</strong> drawing<br />

board. Imperial builders had to trade<br />

grass <strong>for</strong> cement –ablessing today.


UNICoRNS,<br />

MURDER<br />

WEAPoNS AND<br />

ThE holYGRAIl<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are many treasures at <strong>the</strong><br />

H<strong>of</strong>burg as this look at <strong>the</strong> wonders<br />

owned by <strong>the</strong> Habsburgs shows.<br />

<strong>The</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg is home to various museums<br />

and institutions that are devoted<br />

to <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> habsburgs.<br />

<strong>The</strong> biggest draws are <strong>the</strong> Sisi Museum<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Schatzkammer (Imperial<br />

Treasuries), which are brimming<br />

with unusual exhibits from <strong>the</strong> days<br />

<strong>of</strong> empire. Atour is ahighly rewarding<br />

experience, as afew extracts from<br />

<strong>the</strong> inventory reveal.<br />

For instance, <strong>the</strong> Imperial Treasuries<br />

<strong>house</strong> apair <strong>of</strong> objects that were<br />

deemed so valuable that <strong>the</strong>y were declared<br />

“inalienable patrimony <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>house</strong> <strong>of</strong> Austria”: agiant narwhal<br />

tooth and a late antique agate bowl<br />

from <strong>the</strong> fourth century AD. <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>for</strong>mer was originaly thought to be<br />

<strong>the</strong> horn <strong>of</strong> aunicorn and <strong>the</strong> latter<br />

<strong>the</strong> legendary holy Grail. <strong>of</strong> course,<br />

nei<strong>the</strong>r claim was true, but <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

no denying that both exhibits are still<br />

well worth seeing.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> exhibits is in keeping<br />

with <strong>the</strong> Viennese penchant <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

macabre –an1895 cabinet containing<br />

<strong>the</strong> keys to <strong>the</strong> habsburgs’ sarcophaguses.<br />

Each was locked with<br />

two keys, one <strong>of</strong> which was held by<br />

<strong>the</strong> Capuchin monks at <strong>the</strong> Kaisergruft<br />

crypt, and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r was kept in<br />

this cabinet at <strong>the</strong> Imperial Treasuries.<br />

All <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> keys still work, even<br />

though <strong>the</strong> oldest dates back to <strong>the</strong><br />

17 th century.<br />

Just afew steps away you arrive at<br />

<strong>the</strong> Sisi Museum, which introduces<br />

visitors to <strong>the</strong> original surroundings<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> legendary empress, and also<br />

boasts some ra<strong>the</strong>r curious mementos.<br />

For example, <strong>the</strong>re is a cocaine<br />

syringe used by <strong>the</strong> eccentric monarch.<br />

She was not addicted –inthose<br />

days cocaine was used as apain killer<br />

and anti-depressant. <strong>The</strong> file that<br />

killed Elisabeth on <strong>the</strong> shore <strong>of</strong> lake<br />

Geneva in 1898 is unusual in that<br />

murder weapons are normally prohibited<br />

from going on public display.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Sisi Star,apiece <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> empress’s<br />

jewelry set with priceless pearls and<br />

diamonds, was returned to <strong>the</strong> museum<br />

three years ago. It was stolen<br />

in <strong>the</strong> 1990s, and eventually traced<br />

to Canada after alengthy investigation.<br />

–All in all, <strong>the</strong>n, <strong>the</strong> imperial<br />

museums should always be part <strong>of</strong><br />

any traveler‘s itinerary.<br />

ThE NUMBERS<br />

GAME AT ThE<br />

Zoo<br />

Emperor Franz IStephan, known to<br />

many only as Empress Maria <strong>The</strong>resa’s<br />

consort, was no mean ma<strong>the</strong>matician.<br />

less well known is <strong>the</strong> fact<br />

that his many interests included hermeticism,<br />

alchemy and freemasonry.<br />

It was at Schönbrunn Zoo, which<br />

he founded in 1752 –making it <strong>the</strong><br />

world’soldest –that he gave his love<br />

<strong>of</strong> numerology free rein. he hoped to<br />

streng<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> <strong>of</strong> habsburg by<br />

embuing it with mystical powers in<br />

this way. Aclose look at <strong>the</strong> 1759 Imperial<br />

Breakfast Pavilion turns up a<br />

number <strong>of</strong> secrets:<br />

•<strong>The</strong> pavilion was surrounded by<br />

12 animal enclosures when it was<br />

built, each standing <strong>for</strong> adifferent<br />

sign <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> zodiac.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> pavilion has eight sides: <strong>the</strong><br />

figure eight symbolizes eternity, as<br />

well as power and happiness.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> plinth <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pavilion is square,<br />

and represents <strong>the</strong> four elements<br />

and <strong>the</strong> four cardinal Platonic virtues<br />

– wisdom, courage, moderation<br />

and justice.<br />

•Nine steps lead to <strong>the</strong> pavilion, a<br />

number that denotes wisdom and<br />

completion in <strong>the</strong> Kabbalah.<br />

•Three avenues which <strong>for</strong>m an equilateral<br />

triangle lead to <strong>the</strong> pavilion.<br />

<strong>The</strong> number three stands <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

harmony <strong>of</strong> body, spirit and soul.<br />

Today visitors can explore <strong>the</strong> numerological<br />

puzzles <strong>the</strong>mselves, as<br />

<strong>the</strong> pavilion was converted into a<br />

café and restaurant in 1949. <strong>The</strong>re<br />

are excellent views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> surrounding<br />

enclosures from <strong>the</strong> terrace. And<br />

after taking time out <strong>for</strong> asnack, it’s<br />

<strong>of</strong>f to see <strong>the</strong> pandas, elephants and<br />

lions.<br />

Twounique crowns are on display at <strong>the</strong> Imperial Treasuries. <strong>The</strong><br />

Imperial Crown <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Holy Roman Empire <strong>of</strong> German Nation is over<br />

1,000 years old. And although <strong>the</strong> crown <strong>of</strong> emperor Rudolf II was<br />

<strong>the</strong> Austrian Empire‘s crown no emperor was ever crowned with it.<br />

SoNG CoNTEST<br />

AND IMPERIAl<br />

BoYS’ ChoIR<br />

With a little help from Udo Jürgens,<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best known singercomposers<br />

in <strong>the</strong> German-speaking<br />

world, pop music took <strong>the</strong> imperial<br />

h<strong>of</strong>burg by storm. Strange, but true.<br />

<strong>The</strong> singer won <strong>the</strong> 1966 Grand Prix<br />

de la Chanson in luxembourg with<br />

his song Merci Chéri, meaning that<br />

in 1967 <strong>the</strong> 12 th GP would be held in<br />

Vienna, or <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg’sGrosser Festsaal,<br />

to be precise. Sandie Shaw representing<br />

<strong>the</strong> United Kingdom won<br />

with her hit Puppet on aString.<br />

<strong>The</strong> interval featured an appearance<br />

by <strong>the</strong> Vienna Boys’ Choir.<strong>The</strong>y still<br />

per<strong>for</strong>m at <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg to this day –<br />

but in <strong>the</strong> Burgkapelle. <strong>The</strong> origins<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world-famous Boys’ Choir go<br />

back to Emperor Maximilan I(1459–<br />

1519). In September 2011 <strong>the</strong> Albertina<br />

is mounting amajor exhibition<br />

dedicated to this habsburg – who<br />

is remembered as <strong>the</strong> “last knight”–<br />

and <strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> his time.<br />

An exhibition entitled<br />

Emperor Maximilian I<br />

(1459–1519) and <strong>the</strong> Art<br />

<strong>of</strong> his Time is due to open<br />

on 16 September 2011.<br />

Maximilian was atrue<br />

renaissance prince –a<br />

leading patron <strong>of</strong> learning<br />

and <strong>the</strong> arts, he spoke seven<br />

languages and his alliance<br />

with <strong>the</strong> kings <strong>of</strong> Spain<br />

laid <strong>the</strong> groundwork <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

subsequent greatness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

House <strong>of</strong> Habsburg.<br />

Dreams and reality17<br />

Equestrian statues are nothing out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ordinary, but <strong>the</strong>re is certainly something unusual about <strong>the</strong><br />

one on Heldenplatz. <strong>The</strong> monument to Archduke Karl is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> few examples <strong>of</strong> astatue where<br />

<strong>the</strong> full weight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> horse and rider is supported on <strong>the</strong> back legs.<br />

Where better to say “Merci Chérie”<br />

than <strong>the</strong> romantic surroundings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

H<strong>of</strong>burg?<br />

Every Saturday<br />

at 10.45 a.m.<br />

between May<br />

and october<br />

<strong>the</strong> hoch- und<br />

Deutschmeister<br />

band marches<br />

up Kohlmarkt<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Innerer<br />

Burgh<strong>of</strong> courtyard<br />

to give a<br />

40-minute concert.


MUSIC<br />

IS IN<br />

ThE AIR<br />

…and with 415 square kilometers<br />

<strong>of</strong> airspace above Vienna <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

plenty <strong>of</strong> room <strong>for</strong> allkinds <strong>of</strong> music.<br />

Every night in Vienna around<br />

10,000 music lovers are treated to live<br />

classical music –something no o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

city in <strong>the</strong> world can rival. <strong>The</strong> variety<br />

<strong>of</strong>fered by an annual 15,000 concerts<br />

is unbelievable. <strong>The</strong> Vienna concert<br />

program ranges from ancient music<br />

(baroque and earlier) to <strong>the</strong> Viennese<br />

classics (Mozart, haydn, Beethoven)<br />

and contemporary compositions.<br />

And <strong>the</strong> city‘s cellar joints, clubs and<br />

bars are alive with <strong>the</strong> rarest grooves,<br />

<strong>the</strong> heaviest bass and <strong>the</strong> coolest<br />

sounds. Jazz, rock, pop, world and<br />

electronic music are served straight<br />

up or mixed, but absolutely danceable.<br />

And <strong>the</strong>re is no fear <strong>of</strong> mixing<br />

old and new. Waltz King Johann<br />

Strauss and pleasure loving Wolfgang<br />

Amadeus Mozart would be delighted<br />

with what <strong>the</strong> young generation are<br />

making out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir melodies.<br />

Photographer Lukas Beck took <strong>the</strong> idea <strong>of</strong> “music<br />

in <strong>the</strong> air” literally when he organised apicture<br />

session with <strong>the</strong> Vienna Boys’ Choir on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Natural HistoryMuseum.


VIENNA IS NoT ShoRT<br />

oF SUPERlATIVES<br />

Do you know who <strong>the</strong> most photographed<br />

Viennese is? Waltz king<br />

Johann Strauss, whose golden monument<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Stadtpark appears in<br />

photo albums with unparalleled frequency.<br />

he even outdoes fellow musician<br />

Mozart, whose statue is in <strong>the</strong><br />

Burggarten.<br />

<strong>The</strong> city’s opera <strong>house</strong>s per<strong>for</strong>m a<br />

total <strong>of</strong> around 100 different works<br />

each season. Vienna’s flagship opera<br />

<strong>house</strong>, <strong>the</strong> State Opera, has <strong>the</strong><br />

fullest program. And it also has <strong>the</strong><br />

largest number <strong>of</strong> permanent residents,<br />

thanks to <strong>the</strong> 60,000 bees that<br />

live on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>. <strong>The</strong>re is apremiere<br />

<strong>every</strong> month at <strong>the</strong> <strong>The</strong>ater an der<br />

Wien, which stages <strong>every</strong>thing from<br />

baroque to modern works. <strong>The</strong> Volksoper<br />

is <strong>the</strong> city‘s top operetta venue,<br />

but is no stranger to opera and musicals.<br />

Gustav Mahler is very much in <strong>the</strong><br />

headlines at <strong>the</strong> moment, as 2011<br />

marks <strong>the</strong> 100 th anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

great composer and conductor‘s<br />

death. Mahler was musical director<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court opera (today’s State<br />

opera) <strong>for</strong> ten years. his wife Alma<br />

No oNE IS<br />

UNMoVED<br />

BY MUSIC<br />

It’s amazing what music can do.<br />

Vienna has music that ...<br />

... brings people toge<strong>the</strong>r: At <strong>the</strong><br />

1814/15 Vienna Congress <strong>the</strong> novel<br />

waltz music put aspring in <strong>the</strong> assembled<br />

diplomats’ step, indirectly<br />

helping central Europe to half acentury<br />

<strong>of</strong> peace. Napoleon’sadmiration<br />

<strong>for</strong> haydn even crossed <strong>the</strong> lines<br />

<strong>of</strong> warfare, and he posted aguard<br />

<strong>of</strong> honor in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> composer’s<br />

<strong>house</strong> to protect him during <strong>the</strong> siege<br />

<strong>of</strong> Vienna.<br />

was averitable femme fatale, turning<br />

<strong>the</strong> heads <strong>of</strong> alegion <strong>of</strong> artists,<br />

including painter oskar Kokoschka.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Vienna Boys’ Choir is a<br />

100-strong ensemble with long traditions.<br />

<strong>The</strong> oldest boy group in <strong>the</strong><br />

world is also <strong>the</strong> most enduring, and<br />

with 300 appearance to its name, <strong>the</strong><br />

busiest.<br />

Not just boy groups, but bands representing<br />

just about <strong>every</strong> imaginable<br />

style are on <strong>the</strong> bill at <strong>the</strong> annual<br />

Danube Island festival, held at<br />

<strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> summer. Attracting<br />

three million visitors each year, <strong>the</strong><br />

three-day event is Europe‘s largest<br />

free open-air party. <strong>The</strong>re are almost<br />

400 hours <strong>of</strong> entertainment and a<br />

dozen different stages to enjoy.<br />

Vienna is multi-cultural. <strong>The</strong> past<br />

few years have seen <strong>the</strong> birth <strong>of</strong><br />

a number <strong>of</strong> new festivals whose<br />

names tell you <strong>every</strong>thing you need<br />

to know. <strong>The</strong>re are <strong>the</strong> Accordion<br />

and KlezMoRE festivals, Balkan Fever,Salam<br />

orient and <strong>the</strong> Wean hean<br />

festival (dedicated to <strong>the</strong> Wienerlied<br />

song –<strong>the</strong> city’sown musical genre).<br />

… makes ladies go weak at <strong>the</strong><br />

knees: <strong>The</strong> waltz leaves no room <strong>for</strong><br />

female emancipation. <strong>The</strong> gentleman<br />

leads and <strong>the</strong> trusting lady puts herself<br />

in his hands.<br />

… amazes: Acapella festival Voice<br />

Mania is all about virtuoso vocal<br />

acrobatics. Besides trilling, purring,<br />

chirruping, humming and growling,<br />

per<strong>for</strong>mers whisper, pant and generally<br />

play <strong>the</strong> goat. <strong>The</strong>y even sing, as<br />

well.<br />

…fills dance floors: Music gets <strong>the</strong><br />

toes tapping, especially at <strong>the</strong> capital‘s<br />

hottest clubs and discos. Popular<br />

haunts include Pratersauna, Flex<br />

and Praterdome, Austria‘s largest<br />

disco. ImPulsTanz, Europe’s largest<br />

contemporary dance festival, serves<br />

up around 200 dance workshops and<br />

top per<strong>for</strong>mances each summer. <strong>The</strong><br />

dancers at <strong>the</strong> Vienna State opera<br />

Ballet are <strong>the</strong> ultimate in poise.<br />

…brings out <strong>the</strong> best in <strong>every</strong>one:<br />

At <strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> <strong>of</strong> Music, Vienna’s interactive<br />

sound museum, <strong>of</strong>fbeat<br />

experiments await budding composers<br />

(CDs <strong>of</strong> your work are available<br />

to take away) and conductors (<strong>the</strong><br />

Vienna Philharmonic follow your<br />

virtual baton).<br />

“A free concert by <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />

Philharmonic on astage in front<br />

<strong>of</strong> Schönbrunn Palace, in front <strong>of</strong><br />

an audience <strong>of</strong> 100,000 –though<br />

<strong>the</strong> Summer Night Concert is televised<br />

worldwide, you have to be<br />

<strong>the</strong>re to experience <strong>the</strong> unique atmosphere.”<br />

Music is in <strong>the</strong> air<br />

19<br />

ANATIoN oF<br />

MUSIC ADDICTS<br />

Now it’s<strong>of</strong>ficial. AVienna University<br />

<strong>of</strong> Music study confirms <strong>the</strong> received<br />

wisdom that music plays akey role<br />

in Austrian <strong>life</strong>.<br />

<strong>The</strong> research found that people<br />

spend more time listening to music<br />

than <strong>the</strong>y devote to sport. Every second<br />

person is musically active, and<br />

fully 85 percent indicated that music<br />

played an indispensible role in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

<strong>life</strong>. It is hardly surprising that music<br />

thrives in such fertile soil.<br />

YoU WANT IT,<br />

VIENNA’S GoT IT<br />

Tips <strong>for</strong><br />

... classical music lovers: Musikverein,<br />

Konzerthaus, Festival oster-<br />

Klang.<br />

…autograph hunters: meet Anna<br />

Netrebko!<br />

…musical fans: addict alert! one<br />

Elisabeth fan managed 450 per<strong>for</strong>mances.<br />

2011 latest: Tanz der<br />

Vampire, Ich war noch niemals in<br />

New York.<br />

…jazz lovers: Vienna Blues Spring<br />

(<strong>the</strong> world’slongest jazz festival),<br />

Vienna Jazz Festival, Vienna Jazzfloor<br />

Festival.<br />

…talent scouts: up and coming<br />

rock, pop, hip-hop and electronic<br />

acts in <strong>the</strong> bars along <strong>the</strong> Gürtel<br />

beltway.<br />

…per<strong>for</strong>mers: choirs at Voices <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> World in front <strong>of</strong> Schönbrunn<br />

Palace.<br />

…bon vivants: afeast <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> ears,<br />

eyes and palate at <strong>the</strong> Music Film<br />

Festival on City hall Square.<br />

…beginners: free opera <strong>for</strong> all<br />

courtesy <strong>of</strong> live broadcasts from <strong>the</strong><br />

State opera <strong>house</strong> on <strong>the</strong> big screen<br />

outside.<br />

…party people: raise your glass to<br />

<strong>the</strong> New Year’sTrail.<br />

…visual artists: images <strong>of</strong> dance at<br />

<strong>the</strong> sound:frame Festival


Twentieth centuryAustrian design was also<br />

outstanding, as seen at <strong>the</strong> 700 square meter lichterloh<br />

showroom<br />

Traditional milliner Mühlbauer (estd. 1903)<br />

is one <strong>of</strong> countless Viennese companies that<br />

is apast master at combining experience,<br />

craftsmanship, style and design.<br />

CREATIVE<br />

MINDS DIG<br />

DEEP<br />

<strong>The</strong> Wien Museum will be showing<br />

design highlights from <strong>the</strong> last decade<br />

at an exhibition entitled “2000-<br />

2010 –Design in Vienna” between<br />

7October 2010 and 9January 2011.<br />

“In <strong>the</strong> last ten years alively, and<br />

globally-acclaimed product design<br />

scene has evolved in Vienna”, explains<br />

Peter Stuiber from <strong>the</strong> Wien<br />

Museum. “A new generation <strong>of</strong> –<br />

mostly Vienna-trained – creatives<br />

is developing innovative methods,<br />

setting up networks and working<br />

internationally.” <strong>The</strong> allure <strong>of</strong> working<br />

in Vienna stems from <strong>the</strong> fact<br />

that traditional businesses are always<br />

looking to join <strong>for</strong>ces with young designers,<br />

and <strong>of</strong>fer aquality <strong>of</strong> manufacturing<br />

that is rarely found <strong>the</strong>se<br />

days. Among <strong>the</strong>se companies are<br />

big names such as <strong>the</strong> glass manufacturer<br />

lobmeyr, founded in 1823, <strong>the</strong><br />

300-year old porcelain manufacturer<br />

Augarten, and <strong>the</strong> textile company<br />

Backhausen, renowned as <strong>the</strong> main<br />

supplier <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Wiener Werkstätte.<br />

Many smaller Viennese workshops<br />

also stand <strong>for</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highest<br />

order.”<br />

Visitors to Vienna can trace <strong>the</strong> fascinating<br />

history <strong>of</strong> design <strong>right</strong> back<br />

to its industrial beginnings around<br />

1900. outstanding exhibits include<br />

Wiener Werkstätte pieces at <strong>the</strong> MAK<br />

and in <strong>the</strong> leopold Museum. <strong>The</strong>re<br />

are Backhausen textile designs from<br />

historicist through Art Nouveau to<br />

contemporary on show at <strong>the</strong> Wiener<br />

Werkstätte Museum. And <strong>the</strong> Imperial<br />

Furniture Collection is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s largest furniture museums.<br />

<strong>The</strong> exhibitions at <strong>the</strong> design<strong>for</strong>um<br />

and quartier21 (both in <strong>the</strong> Museums-<br />

Quartier), <strong>the</strong> shop/café “das möbel”,<br />

<strong>the</strong> open <strong>house</strong> at Walking Chair<br />

Design Gallery and <strong>the</strong> Klaus Engelhorn<br />

Gallery <strong>of</strong>fer agood overview <strong>of</strong><br />

young design. And, <strong>of</strong> course, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is <strong>the</strong> design market, which is held at<br />

<strong>the</strong> historic Adolf loos <strong>house</strong> be<strong>for</strong>e<br />

Christmas each year.<br />

<strong>The</strong> tight-knit but vibrant Vienna design<br />

scene holds up well against its<br />

international peers and keeps attracting<br />

young talent to <strong>the</strong> city. Seemingly,<br />

<strong>the</strong> great tradition <strong>of</strong> loos, h<strong>of</strong>fmann<br />

and co. is seen as enrichment<br />

ra<strong>the</strong>r than aburden.<br />

NoT oNlY<br />

“WhAT” –<br />

ThE “WhERE”<br />

AND “hoW”<br />

MATTER, Too<br />

Trend and marketing researchers<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten categorise people according<br />

to <strong>the</strong>ir shopping preferences. Dedicated<br />

followers <strong>of</strong> fashion, bargain<br />

hunters, brand loyalists and spontaneous<br />

shoppers are all part <strong>of</strong> it. Each<br />

target group has its own shopping<br />

district or even its own shopping<br />

city. But shopping in Vienna caters<br />

to all desires and tastes and best <strong>of</strong><br />

all, <strong>the</strong>re are no strict categorizations.<br />

With <strong>the</strong> main shopping areas close<br />

to <strong>the</strong> center, all <strong>the</strong> hotspots are<br />

within <strong>walk</strong>ing distance from each<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r. <strong>The</strong> boundaries between style<br />

and cult, one-<strong>of</strong>f pieces and brand<br />

products, avant-garde and tradition<br />

are fluent.<br />

Brand lovers will feel at home in <strong>the</strong><br />

heart <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city. All <strong>the</strong> big names<br />

have <strong>the</strong>ir flagship stores in <strong>the</strong> district<br />

around Kärtner Strasse, Graben<br />

and Kohlmarkt. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s<br />

hippest stores are beyond <strong>the</strong> Ringstrsse<br />

which encircles <strong>the</strong> old town.<br />

<strong>The</strong> second to ninth districts are<br />

home to anew breed <strong>of</strong> mostly young<br />

designers. <strong>The</strong> Freihausviertel (near<br />

Naschmarkt) and Neubaugasse are<br />

always worth alook. From <strong>the</strong>re, it<br />

is only ashort <strong>walk</strong> to Vienna’s largest<br />

shopping strip, <strong>the</strong> Mariahilfer<br />

Strasse.


ThE BEAUTIFUl<br />

IS AS USEFUl AS<br />

ThE USEFUl<br />

•Famous Famous <strong>for</strong><br />

his<br />

uncompromising<br />

stance on <strong>for</strong>m, architect Adolf<br />

Loos was aman ahead <strong>of</strong> his time.<br />

In 1929 he designed abar set with<br />

diamond pattern on <strong>the</strong> base <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

American Bar in Vienna. It is still<br />

part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lobmeyr range today.<br />

In 2010 Marco Dessi came up with<br />

•Floor design in <strong>the</strong> Kunsthistorisches<br />

Museum Vienna, according<br />

to drawings by Gottfried Semper and<br />

Karl Freiherr von hasenauer,1891.<br />

•A pair <strong>of</strong> drinking icons: Wiener<br />

Werkstätte tea set from 1903, designed<br />

by Josef h<strong>of</strong>fmann, crafted<br />

by Konrad Koch, from <strong>the</strong> MAK<br />

collection. Double-cup Divina by<br />

<strong>the</strong> “grip” series <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> same company.<br />

This glassware shows just<br />

how handcrafting can bring apareddown<br />

design to <strong>life</strong>. Similar to loos’<br />

design, <strong>the</strong> detailing on <strong>the</strong> base<br />

protects <strong>the</strong> objects from scratches.<br />

•Ceiling design, Skopik &Lohn restaurant.Byotto<br />

Zitko, 2006.<br />

designer hedwig Rotter. Perfect <strong>for</strong><br />

a“kleiner schwarzer or amelange”.<br />

hand made in Vienna.<br />

www.manodesign.at<br />

•<strong>The</strong> original Scheer workshop produces<br />

amaximum <strong>of</strong> just 300 pairs<br />

<strong>of</strong> made-to-measure, handcrafted<br />

shoes each year.Ittakes sixty hours<br />

to make one pair, explains Markus<br />

Scheer, <strong>the</strong> seventh-generation<br />

owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> company.<br />

•Wittgenstein’s fingerprint. This fufuturist door<br />

handle<br />

was<br />

designed<br />

by<br />

EooS (Gernot<br />

Bohmann,<br />

harald<br />

Gründl<br />

and<br />

Martin<br />

Bergmann,<br />

graduates<br />

<strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong><br />

University<br />

<strong>of</strong><br />

Fine<br />

Arts<br />

Vienna)<br />

<strong>for</strong><br />

aaworkshop<br />

workshop run<br />

by<br />

German<br />

manufacturer<br />

fsb.<br />

It<br />

pays<br />

homage<br />

to<br />

<strong>the</strong><br />

philosopher<br />

ludwig<br />

Wittgenstein who also made architectural<br />

history with his radical<br />

minimalist design <strong>for</strong> his sister’s<br />

<strong>house</strong> in Vienna. <strong>The</strong> handle<br />

features an integrated sensor that<br />

recognises biometric fingerprint<br />

data and works as a“key”.<br />

•<strong>The</strong> contemporary furniture on sale<br />

at Marlowe also bears witness to<br />

<strong>the</strong> enduring popularity <strong>of</strong> Vienna’s<br />

distinctive fin de siècle design signature.<br />

•Superated’s clear lines, fine materials<br />

and original cuts have been<br />

turning heads since <strong>the</strong> label was<br />

launched in 2005. For men who<br />

have <strong>the</strong> confidence and humor to<br />

carry <strong>of</strong>f extraordinary fashion. <strong>The</strong><br />

superated team has astore called<br />

Samstag in Margaretenstrasse in<br />

Vienna (open Fri noon –7p.m. Sat<br />

10 a.m. –7p.m.) which carries international<br />

and Austrian fashion <strong>for</strong><br />

men and women, from designers including<br />

hartmann Nordenholz and<br />

<strong>house</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Very Island’s.<br />

“During <strong>the</strong> Vienna Design Week<br />

(29 September –9october 2011)<br />

<strong>the</strong> whole city will become a<br />

showroom <strong>of</strong> contemporary Austrian<br />

and international product,<br />

furniture and industrial designs.<br />

As part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Passionswege design<br />

trails, designers will create<br />

site-specific installations in shops<br />

and businesses around <strong>the</strong> city.”<br />

Form and function21<br />

oRIGINAlS<br />

FRoM VIENNA<br />

Manner Schnitten<br />

how do you measure worldwide<br />

success? one Manner wafer (first<br />

mentioned in <strong>the</strong> Manner product<br />

catalogue in 1898) weighs 7.5 grams.<br />

And with annual production <strong>of</strong> about<br />

10,000 metric tons that makes about<br />

1.3 billion wafers each year! Each<br />

wafer measures 47x17x17mm, which<br />

equates to 61,000 kilometres <strong>of</strong> Manner<br />

wafers per year –easily enough<br />

to stretch round <strong>the</strong> planet one and<br />

ahalf times. or have we made amistake<br />

somewhere?<br />

<strong>The</strong> Snow Globe<br />

<strong>The</strong>y have featured in films such as<br />

Citizen Kane, True lies and home<br />

Alone. Slow globes were invented by<br />

Viennese toolmaker Erwin Perzy in<br />

1900. <strong>The</strong> original workshop produces<br />

around 300,000 units each year,<br />

including anumber <strong>of</strong> custom orders<br />

such as <strong>the</strong> “confetti globe.” This<br />

one-<strong>of</strong>f featured confetti from Bill<br />

Clinton’s inauguration and a silver<br />

base by Cartier. <strong>The</strong> original Viennese<br />

Snow Globe Museum adjoins<br />

<strong>the</strong> workshop.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Thonet Chair no. (2)14<br />

With around 50 million made so far,<br />

no o<strong>the</strong>r chair has been produced<br />

on <strong>the</strong> same scale as Thonet’s no. 14<br />

model (today no. 214). <strong>The</strong> classic<br />

café chair, isone <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most enduring<br />

industrial products <strong>of</strong> all time,<br />

and undeniably one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most successful.<br />

Nonja<br />

She is <strong>the</strong> first orang-utan with aFacebook<br />

account and acamera <strong>of</strong> her<br />

own – Schönbrunn Zoo’s leading<br />

lady Nonja. Renowned <strong>for</strong> her painting,<br />

her works have fetched prices <strong>of</strong><br />

up to EUR 2,000. Now she has exchanged<br />

her palette and brush <strong>for</strong> a<br />

digital camera, sharing her photos on<br />

her Facebook site.


SWING INTo<br />

SPRING ...<br />

is <strong>the</strong> watchword as Vienna comes to<br />

<strong>life</strong> in spring. Your Vienna spring can be:<br />

•eastery: at <strong>the</strong> city’s Easter markets in<br />

April, in front <strong>of</strong> Schönbrunn Palace<br />

and on Freyung in <strong>the</strong> old town. or <strong>the</strong><br />

osterKlang music festival at <strong>the</strong> <strong>The</strong>ater<br />

an der Wien and <strong>the</strong> Musikverein<br />

from 16–24 April 2011.<br />

•contemporary: at Viennafair,<strong>the</strong> international<br />

fair <strong>for</strong> contemporary art with<br />

afocus on CEE, 12–15 May 2011.<br />

•fashionable: at Modepalast, <strong>the</strong> cutting-edge<br />

sales exhibition <strong>for</strong> fashion,<br />

jewelry and accessories in April 2011:<br />

street couture, ready to wear and ec<strong>of</strong>ashion.<br />

•sporty: at <strong>the</strong> Vienna City Marathon on<br />

17 April –anun<strong>for</strong>gettable experience<br />

<strong>for</strong> competitors and spectators alike.<br />

ThE DANUBE So<br />

BlUE –AND ThE<br />

SKY,ASWEll<br />

Vienna has oceans <strong>of</strong> space <strong>for</strong> sun worshippers<br />

and open-air fans:<br />

•along <strong>the</strong> Danube Canal with <strong>the</strong> Summer<br />

Stage, Badeschiff, TelAviv Beach<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Arabian Beach (planned <strong>for</strong><br />

2011).<br />

•at Motto am Fluss, located at <strong>the</strong><br />

new Twin City liner boat terminal.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> best looking dockside bar in <strong>the</strong><br />

world” is how architect Stephan Ferency<br />

(BEhF) terms <strong>the</strong> city’s newest<br />

café, restaurant, bar, and business and<br />

event hotspot.<br />

•on <strong>the</strong> Danube Island, where <strong>the</strong> options<br />

range from unspoilt nature to<br />

party central.<br />

•in<strong>the</strong> parks,from picnics to <strong>the</strong> Wiener<br />

Genussfestival in <strong>the</strong> Stadtpark.<br />

•on <strong>the</strong> Gürtel beltway, where <strong>the</strong> late<br />

night party crowd go bar hopping.<br />

•musical/visual: at sound:frame, <strong>the</strong><br />

festival <strong>for</strong> visualising electronic music<br />

–aglobal summit <strong>for</strong> international<br />

visual artists, VJs, video artists, sound<br />

producers, DJs and media artists in<br />

March/April.<br />

•musical/technical: at <strong>the</strong> Museum <strong>of</strong><br />

Technology, <strong>the</strong> “Macht Musik!” exibition<br />

gives visitors achance to try out<br />

and experience instruments, stages,<br />

computers, syn<strong>the</strong>sizers, sound mixing<br />

desks and cutting-edge studio technology.<br />

•moving: on tours <strong>of</strong> Vienna’s green<br />

spaces such as <strong>the</strong> lainzer Tiergarten<br />

wild<strong>life</strong> preserve with Empress Sisi’s<br />

summer palace, <strong>the</strong> hermesvilla.<br />

•in<strong>the</strong> Prater,where highlights include<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1May celebrations and <strong>the</strong> Praterrummel<br />

at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> August.<br />

•in <strong>the</strong> MuseumsQuartier, which turns<br />

into acity center open-air venue each<br />

year during “summer at <strong>the</strong> MQ”.<br />

•at <strong>the</strong> open-air cinemas in <strong>the</strong> Augarten<br />

and on Karlsplatz.<br />

•atone <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> many outdoor swimming<br />

pools,many <strong>of</strong> which are architectural<br />

gems.


AUTUMNAl<br />

DElIGhTS ...<br />

<strong>for</strong> lovers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> good things in <strong>life</strong>.<br />

Choose from:<br />

•young wine, which goes on sale at <strong>the</strong><br />

city’sheuriger taverns in fall.<br />

•freshly-harvested produce at <strong>the</strong> harvest<br />

festival on heldenplatz.<br />

•selected per<strong>for</strong>mances at <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />

State opera <strong>house</strong> which are broadcast<br />

live on <strong>the</strong> big screen next to <strong>the</strong> opera<br />

<strong>house</strong> in September and october.<br />

•cinematic highlights at <strong>the</strong> Viennale<br />

international film festival, held in october<br />

•contemporary music at <strong>the</strong> Wien Modern<br />

festival in october/November.<br />

•<strong>the</strong> marked footpaths that criss-cross<br />

<strong>the</strong> Vienna Woods and o<strong>the</strong>r easily accessible<br />

recreation zones –<strong>the</strong> blend <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> great outdoors, city living and culinary<br />

delights.<br />

“VIENNA IS<br />

ChRISTMAS” ...<br />

as <strong>the</strong> German version <strong>of</strong> “1000 Places<br />

to See be<strong>for</strong>e YouDie” puts it. And it is<br />

true, yuletide magic is <strong>every</strong>where:<br />

•sparkling lights: during <strong>the</strong> run up to<br />

Christmas Vienna’s shopping streets<br />

try to outdo each o<strong>the</strong>r with creative<br />

and atmospheric lighting.<br />

•Advent markets: yuletide magic and<br />

shopping in front <strong>of</strong> Schönbrunn Palace,<br />

and on Am h<strong>of</strong> and City hall<br />

Square in <strong>the</strong> historic city center; or<br />

with aview, on<strong>the</strong> Cobenzl hill (bio<br />

Advent market).<br />

•New Year’sTrail: aseries <strong>of</strong> show stages<br />

that trans<strong>for</strong>m <strong>the</strong> entire old town<br />

into one big party zone.<br />

•Kaiserball: anyone looking to end <strong>the</strong><br />

year on atruly festive note dances in<br />

<strong>the</strong> New Year in <strong>the</strong> staterooms at <strong>the</strong><br />

h<strong>of</strong>burg.<br />

•on a special tour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city: <strong>the</strong><br />

120-kilometer-long Rundumadum trail<br />

encircles <strong>the</strong> city in 24 easily manageable<br />

stages. <strong>The</strong> start and finish <strong>of</strong> each<br />

stage is accessible by public transportation.<br />

•New Year’s Concert: if you are not<br />

<strong>for</strong>tunate enough to experience <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s most-famous concert live in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Golden hall <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Musikverein<br />

on 1January, <strong>the</strong>re is always <strong>the</strong> video<br />

wall on City hall Square.<br />

•Vienna Ice World: from 20 January to 6<br />

March City hall Square is trans<strong>for</strong>med<br />

into a giant ice landscape complete<br />

with an romantic ice trail through <strong>the</strong><br />

historic Rathauspark.<br />

•ball season: it doesn’t have to be <strong>the</strong><br />

opera Ball (3 March 2011) –Vienna<br />

has something <strong>for</strong> <strong>every</strong>one.<br />

•Resonanzen: <strong>the</strong> ancient music festival<br />

will bring <strong>the</strong> music <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> periods<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Middle Ages to <strong>the</strong> Baroque<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Konzerthaus from 15–2 January.<br />

Vienna in 201123


GriechiScher<br />

Wein<br />

Merci<br />

chérie<br />

Das Musical mit den Songs von<br />

Udo Jürgens<br />

iMMer WieDer Geht<br />

Die Sonne aUf<br />

aber bitte<br />

Mit Sahne<br />

www.musicalvienna.at<br />

Mit 66<br />

Jahren<br />

Siebzehn Jahr,<br />

blonDeS haar U.V.M.

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