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tourism after lockdown<br />

to po<br />

no <strong>118</strong><br />

2022<br />

s.<br />

PLACES<br />

– Travel with us to<br />

Bangkok, Barcelona,<br />

Dubrovnik, Hawaii,<br />

Iceland and Venice<br />

CITY MAKERS<br />

– Interviews with Luigi<br />

Brugnaro, Xavier Marcé<br />

and Yuthasak Supasorn<br />

$ COMPANIES<br />

– Reality check with<br />

Lonely Planet, FairBnB<br />

and cruise companies in<br />

times of pandemic and<br />

overtourism


COVER<br />

PHOTO: Filip Wolak<br />

A lonely, deserted Times Square in New York<br />

City. Who could have ever imagined that? In<br />

his aerial picture series “A Still Life - Pandemic<br />

Landscapes”, the photographer Filip Wolak<br />

captured once unimaginable situations during<br />

the pandemic in the US. Read more on page 16.<br />

What a crazy time!<br />

The pandemic is still<br />

raging around the<br />

world. After about<br />

two years of cuts and<br />

abandonment, more<br />

countries are nevertheless<br />

coming to the conclusion to relax Covid<br />

measures, sometimes drastically.<br />

It is time for global tourism to develop a new<br />

identity. After lockdown, will we ever be able to<br />

travel as we did before? What will the tourism of<br />

the future look like? How do we deal with the<br />

problems of overtourism in cities and regions?<br />

There are many question around tourism, and<br />

answers as well as solutions are unfortunately<br />

not yet sufficiently apparent in many places. For<br />

cities, the endless crowds of visitors were a real<br />

problem before Covid. Now it is a question of<br />

reactivating tourism in a way that is not only<br />

environmentally friendly, but also compatible<br />

with the inhabitants. What approaches are cities<br />

like Barcelona, Venice and Bangkok taking?<br />

How do Iceland and Hawaii want to deal with<br />

overtourism and what influence does social<br />

media have on tourist crowds? Of course, in this<br />

issue of topos, we are not just looking at ideas<br />

on how to deal with overtourism but trying to<br />

identify real solutions for sustainable tourism<br />

for the cities of the future.<br />

Some may wonder what topos magazine has to<br />

do with tourism. This question can be answered<br />

quite simply. Almost every metropolis on this<br />

planet has to deal with the effects of an evergrowing<br />

traveling crowd. Too many visitors can<br />

displace the inhabitants of cities and unfortunately<br />

often leave a swathe of devastation in<br />

their wake. Apparently, many people care more<br />

about producing memories than immersing<br />

themselves in foreign cultures or societies. Thus,<br />

whole areas of cities become more difficult for<br />

residents to access and swathes of land are destroyed.<br />

With topos, we want to look at future life<br />

in the sustainable city and discuss the responsibility<br />

of planners and city makers such as mayors<br />

and city councils, but also the social responsibility<br />

of companies in this. We want to play a part in<br />

answering the questions of overtourism.<br />

Now is the time to make tourism more<br />

sustainable. First and foremost, cities need to<br />

deal differently with visitor flows and develop<br />

new mobility concepts. Cities will also have to<br />

bring residents and tourists together. The city<br />

of the future offers space for everyone. We all<br />

carry part of the responsibility and must make<br />

our cities more liveable. Deplorable conditions<br />

and a lack of innovation must be overcome.<br />

We will all have a say in what the final<br />

solutions to overtourism issues look like. But<br />

if we do not manage to find a new way of<br />

dealing with urban tourism now, after the<br />

numerous lockdown phases, it will be difficult<br />

to develop solutions later.<br />

This topos is about addressing the elephant in<br />

the room and showing how it can work.<br />

Enjoy reading.<br />

TOPOS E-PAPER: AVAIL-<br />

ABLE FOR YOUR DESKTOP<br />

For more information visit:<br />

www.toposmagazine.com/epaper<br />

TOBIAS HAGER<br />

Chief Content Officer<br />

t.hager@georg-media.de<br />

topos 005


Contents<br />

THE BIG PICTURE<br />

Page 8<br />

OPINION<br />

Page 10<br />

CURATED PRODUCTS<br />

Page 100<br />

REFERENCE<br />

Page 106<br />

METROPOLIS EXPLAINED<br />

Page 12<br />

A STILL LIFE –<br />

PANDEMIC LANDSCAPES<br />

Page 16<br />

A STILL LIFE –<br />

PANDEMIC LANDSCAPES<br />

Picture series and text by Filip Wolak – Part 1<br />

Page 16<br />

THE END OF TOURISM?<br />

A look into the past, the present and<br />

the future of tourism<br />

Page 24<br />

PILGRIMS AND FOLLOWERS<br />

Venice between the needs of residents and<br />

the demands of tourists<br />

Page 62<br />

“USING DATA ALLOWS US TO (...) MAKE THE CITY<br />

MORE LIVEABLE FOR ITS RESIDENTS.”<br />

Interview with Luigi Brugnaro, Mayor of Venice<br />

Page 68<br />

ESCAPE PLAN<br />

Page 112<br />

EDGE CITY<br />

Page 114<br />

IMPRINT<br />

Page 113<br />

BOOSTING ALOHA IN TOURISM<br />

The pandemic brought Hawaii’s tourism industry to its<br />

knees, begging international visitors to delay their visit<br />

Page 34<br />

CHANGING COURSE<br />

Few tourism industries seem as controversial as the<br />

cruise ship industry. A reflection.<br />

Page 72<br />

BARCELONA – WHEN A CITY IS A BRAND<br />

The city of Gaudì between the tourist gaze and its<br />

search for a sustainable future<br />

Page 40<br />

“BARCELONA IS NO HOLIDAY DESTINATION,<br />

IT’S AN URBAN EXPERIENCE.”<br />

Interview with Xavier Marcé, the Councilor for Tourism<br />

and Creative Industries at Barcelona City Council<br />

Page 48<br />

ACCESSING VOLCANIC LANDSCAPES<br />

Iceland's tourism best practice – the Saxhöll stairway<br />

in Snaefellsjökull national park<br />

Page 52<br />

THE NONCONFORMISTS<br />

A portrait of FairBnB<br />

Page 58<br />

THE CHALLENGES OF TOURISM – IN A NUTSHELL<br />

Page 60/61<br />

RECOVERY IN PARADISE<br />

Thailand’s way to sustainable tourism<br />

Page 74<br />

“MASS TOURISM IS NO LONGER THE ANSWER FOR<br />

OUR SUSTAINABLE FUTURE”<br />

Interview with Yuthasak Supasorn, the Governor of the<br />

Tourism Authority of Thailand<br />

Page 82<br />

“WE DON’T STAY AWAY FROM DESTINATIONS THAT<br />

HAVE HAD LARGE NUMBERS OF VISITORS”<br />

Interview with Tom Hall from Lonely Planet<br />

Page 86<br />

A STILL LIFE –<br />

PANDEMIC LANDSCAPES<br />

Picture series and text by Filip Wolak – Part 2<br />

Page 90<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

Page 98<br />

ACCESSING VOLCANIC<br />

LANDSCAPES<br />

Page 52<br />

Photos: Filip Wolak (above); Landslag<br />

006 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>


OPINION<br />

Tobias Hager<br />

Journalist and Chief Content Officer<br />

“COLLECT<br />

MOMENTS,<br />

NOT<br />

SOCIAL MEDIA<br />

POSTS”<br />

International society has perfected the art of making itself “instagrammable”.<br />

We’re not just talking about Ariana Grande, Ronaldo and the like. Architects<br />

and planners – such as Bjarke Ingels and Norman Foster for example – have<br />

also perfected the art of presenting themselves on the social media platform<br />

Instagram. It’s hardly surprising, then, that social media also massively determines<br />

our travel behavior. The problem: the cities themselves still use the platforms<br />

far too little. Yet they would be ideal for better guiding tourist flows.<br />

010 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>


Opinion<br />

Even though it is hard to imagine – there was<br />

a time before the pandemic. A time when it<br />

was hardly possible to visit sights or worldfamous<br />

cities without crowds of people. After<br />

more and more people around the globe<br />

discovered the joy of traveling, it didn’t take<br />

long until many European cities in particular<br />

had more problems than benefits from the<br />

crowds of visitors. This was fuelled by social<br />

media. Instagram, TikTok and many other<br />

social networks were platforms for pictures in<br />

front of the same motifs and backgrounds.<br />

The so-called Instagram hotspots were a help<br />

at first, but then developed into a real problem<br />

for many cities and inhabitants. It was no<br />

longer possible to cope with the crowds and<br />

some regions were so badly affected that<br />

normal coexistence among the inhabitants no<br />

longer seemed possible. Then Covid came and<br />

suddenly the tourism industry worldwide was<br />

down. Some of the former tourist routes were<br />

reclaimed by their inhabitants. Travel posts<br />

and the influence of social networks on<br />

people’s travel behavior inevitably reduced.<br />

Experts now fear that with reduction of contact<br />

restrictions, the calm before the storm will come<br />

to an end and in a short time we will have to deal<br />

with even more tourists than before the<br />

pandemic. The memories are still there, of the<br />

horror stories in which an overwhelming<br />

number of tourists leave significant damage to<br />

the environment. Case in point: After pop singer<br />

Justin Bieber filmed a music video in Iceland<br />

and it went viral on social media in 2015, over a<br />

million people made their way to visit this particular<br />

gorge in a short period of time. In 2018,<br />

the authorities had to close access to give nature<br />

a rest. Something similar happened in Germany.<br />

A natural “infinity pool” attracted many tourists<br />

to Bavaria. Too many people wanted a photo in<br />

front of the breathtaking scenery. In 2021, the<br />

authorities closed the pool for five years.<br />

Social media are multiplication platforms.<br />

They do not only generate uncontrolled<br />

tourist flows. Nowadays, these platforms take<br />

on an important role in terms of information<br />

gathering. Many people choose their travel<br />

destinations and routes through cities only via<br />

Instagram and the like. Which restaurants are<br />

trending? Where are the best drinks? Which<br />

museums and exhibitions should I see in a<br />

foreign city? For many people, these and other<br />

questions are now only answered via social<br />

media. More and more cities have discovered<br />

social media for their own marketing activities.<br />

Unfortunately, however, these efforts are still<br />

in their infancy in many places.<br />

If one wants to seriously influence the streams<br />

of visitors that are channeled through the<br />

cities of the world via social networks, then<br />

cities need to understand where their visitors<br />

are. Data collected through social networks<br />

and other services needs to be better analyzed.<br />

Ultimately, there is no getting around one fact:<br />

too many cities still have a massive amount of<br />

catching up to do when it comes to digitalization.<br />

First and foremost, they need to better<br />

understand digital platforms. And no, a Facebook<br />

page alone is no longer enough. If cities<br />

understand the platforms on which they reach<br />

tourists, they can also place suitable offers. The<br />

poster in the underground station no longer<br />

cuts it.<br />

The fact is, the pandemic has offered us a small<br />

glimpse of the beauty of our sights and<br />

hotspots. We should take inspiration from<br />

this. Social media now plays a central role in<br />

tourists’ travel planning and leisure activities.<br />

Through social media, you can reach residents<br />

as well as tourists, and with clear thoughts as<br />

well as ideas, we can certainly find some<br />

exciting solutions on how to deal with the ever<br />

increasing number of tourists in the future<br />

and, above all, how to communicate digitally.<br />

Hopefully, at some point we will be able to<br />

ensure that visiting a city is no longer just<br />

about producing social media posts, but about<br />

experiences that break down barriers and<br />

prejudices and contribute to creating a more<br />

peaceful future for all of us.<br />

TOBIAS HAGER is a journalist and Chief Content<br />

Officer and member of the management board at<br />

GEORG Media. Responsible for all GEORG brands<br />

such as topos magazine, BAUMEISTER and<br />

Garten + Landschaft, his focus is on the areas of<br />

content, digital, marketing and entrepreneurship.<br />

topos 011


tourism after lockdown<br />

A Still Life –<br />

Pandemic<br />

Landscapes<br />

Emptied cities, skies, airports, stadiums, deserted parking lots, roads,<br />

schools, workplaces… 2020, a year where our world stood still, holding<br />

its breath and bracing for challenges unknown to the modern, developed<br />

world. This photo series is a visual story of human environments,<br />

but distanced from the personal and dramatic demise which the pandemic<br />

has caused to so many. Let this selection bear silent witness to<br />

the changes that have affected us all during the course of the past two<br />

years.These photographs were taken from a small airplane – (a Cessna<br />

172 nicknamed Rusty for it’s original 1973 paint) – whilst crossing the<br />

continent during the early months of the pandemic. The original series<br />

has been supplemented by images taken a year later, as the vaccination<br />

efforts were in full swing.<br />

PICTURE SERIES AND TEXT BY FILIP WOLAK<br />

016 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>


JFK AIRPORT, NEW YORK<br />

An unusually silent JFK airport during the peak of the COVID-19 crisis (May 2020). Over the course of this shoot, no movement<br />

was observed when just a few months earlier this was the usual hive of activity. A thick cloud layer had started moving in over<br />

the airport, and its sharp boundary revealed the unique partial sun / partial shade lighting conditions.<br />

topos 017


tourism after lockdown<br />

The end<br />

of<br />

024 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>


tourism?<br />

The pandemic has devastated global tourism, and many will say ‘good riddance’<br />

to overcrowded cities and rubbish-strewn natural wonders. Is there any way to<br />

reinvent an industry that does so much damage?<br />

CHRISTOPHER DE BELLAIGUE<br />

topos 025


tourism after lockdown<br />

Of all the calamities that befell tourists as the coronavirus<br />

took hold, those involving cruise ships stood<br />

apart. Contagion at sea inspired a special horror, as<br />

pleasure palaces turned into prison hulks, and rumours<br />

of infection on board spread between fetid<br />

cabins via WhatsApp. Trapped in close proximity to<br />

their fellow passengers, holidaymakers experienced<br />

the distress of being both victims and agents of infection,<br />

as a succession of ports refused them entry.<br />

When it began, the deadly situation at sea was<br />

seen as a freakish outgrowth of what many still<br />

thought of as a Chinese problem. The first ship to<br />

suffer a major outbreak was the Diamond Princess.<br />

By mid-February 2020, 355 cases had been confirmed<br />

aboard, and the ship was held in quarantine<br />

in the port of Yokohama. At the time, the ship accounted<br />

for more than half of reported cases outside<br />

China. Fourteen passengers on the Diamond<br />

Princess would die of the virus.<br />

The nightmare at sea continued for a long time.<br />

Even after passengers from more than 30 afflicted<br />

cruise ships were allowed to disembark, and flooded<br />

into hospitals, quarantine hotels or on to charter<br />

flights home, an estimated 100,000 crew and staff<br />

remained trapped at sea, some in quarantine, others<br />

blocked from disembarking until their employers<br />

could make onward travel arrangements. This<br />

second drama led to a mass hunger strike – by<br />

15 Romanian crew in limbo off the coast of Florida<br />

– and a police intervention to quell disturbances on<br />

a ship quarantined in the German port of Cuxhaven.<br />

As recently as 1st June 2020, crew and staff aboard<br />

20-odd cruise ships marooned in Manila Bay were<br />

reportedly clamouring to be allowed ashore.<br />

CRUISE SHIPS: Few tourism industries seem<br />

more controversial – learn more about<br />

it on page 72<br />

Cruises have become a symbol of the ravages that<br />

coronavirus has inflicted on tourism. A sector that<br />

until January 2020 was worth 150 billion U.S. Dollar,<br />

by its own estimate, cut jobs, issued debt and<br />

discounted furiously simply to survive. But even<br />

before the Covid crisis hit, cruising had become<br />

symptomatic of the damage that tourism wreaks on<br />

the world.<br />

Tourism is an unusual industry in that the<br />

assets it monetises – a view, a reef, a cathedral – do<br />

not belong to it. The world’s dominant cruise companies<br />

– Carnival, Royal Caribbean and Norwegian<br />

– pay little towards the upkeep of the public goods<br />

they live off. By incorporating themselves in overseas<br />

tax havens with benign environmental and<br />

labour laws – respectively Panama, Liberia and Bermuda<br />

– cruising’s big three, which account for<br />

three-quarters of the industry, get to enjoy low taxes<br />

and avoid much irksome regulation, while polluting<br />

the air and sea, eroding coastlines and pouring<br />

tens of millions of people into picturesque ports of<br />

call that often cannot cope with them.<br />

Pre-pandemic<br />

forecast:<br />

Chinese travellers<br />

were expected to<br />

make 160 million<br />

trips abroad<br />

What goes for cruises goes for to most of the travel<br />

industry. For decades, a small number of environmentally<br />

minded reformists in the sector have tried<br />

to develop sustainable tourism that creates enduring<br />

employment while minimising the damage it<br />

does. But most hotel groups, tour operators and<br />

national tourism authorities – whatever their stated<br />

commitment to sustainable tourism – continue to<br />

prioritise the economies of scale that inevitably lead<br />

to more tourists paying less money and heaping<br />

more pressure on those same assets. Before the pandemic,<br />

industry experts were forecasting that international<br />

arrivals would rise by between three and<br />

four per cent in 2020. Chinese travellers, the largest<br />

and fastest-growing cohort in world tourism, were<br />

expected to make 160 million trips abroad, a 27 per<br />

cent increase on the 2015 figure.<br />

The virus has given us a picture, at once frightening<br />

and beautiful, of a world without tourism. We<br />

saw what happens to our public goods when tourists<br />

aren’t clustering to exploit them. Shorelines enjoy a<br />

respite from the erosion caused by cruise ships the<br />

size of canyons. Walkers stuck at home cannot litter<br />

mountainsides. Intricate culinary cultures are no<br />

longer menaced by triangles of defrosted pizza. It is<br />

hard to imagine a better illustration of tourism’s<br />

effects than our current holiday away from it.<br />

Coronavirus has also revealed the danger of<br />

overreliance on tourism, demonstrating in brutal<br />

fashion what happens when the industry supporting<br />

an entire community, at the expense of any<br />

other more sustainable activity, collapses. On 7 May<br />

026 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>


2020, the UN World Tourism Organisation estimated<br />

that earnings from international tourism<br />

might be down 80 per cent in the year 2020 against<br />

2019’s figure of 1.7 billion U.S. Dollar, and that<br />

120 million jobs could be lost. Since tourism relies<br />

on the same human mobility that spreads disease,<br />

and will be subject to the most stringent and lasting<br />

restrictions, it is likely to suffer more than almost<br />

any other economic activity.<br />

As tourism’s impact on the world has deepened,<br />

so the global economy has come to depend on it.<br />

After the freeze forced upon foreign travel –<br />

unimaginable even some months ago – we have a<br />

rare opportunity to extract ourselves from this<br />

destructive cycle, and do things differently.<br />

To accusations that it is spoiling the planet, the<br />

tourism industry responds with an economic<br />

argument: one in ten jobs in the world depend on it.<br />

Governments tend to like tourism, because it<br />

creates jobs in the time it takes a hotel to open and<br />

the hot water to come on – and it brings in plenty of<br />

foreign money.<br />

Spain and Italy:<br />

When room<br />

occupation bottomed<br />

out at 5 per cent<br />

One industry advocate I spoke to quoted Lelei<br />

Lelaulu, a development entrepreneur who, in 2007,<br />

described tourism as “the largest voluntary transfer<br />

of cash from the rich to the poor, the ‘haves’ to ‘have<br />

nots’, in history”. Even if one allows for considerable<br />

“leakage” – whereby much of tourists’ expenditure<br />

doesn’t go to the destination country but to foreign<br />

tour agencies, airlines and hotel chains whose<br />

services they use – it cannot be denied that<br />

Australians have spent liberally in Bali, Americans<br />

in Cancún and Chinese in Bangkok.<br />

At the end of January 2020, when the flow of Chinese<br />

tourists to Europe dried up, Melissa Biggs<br />

Bradley – the founder of Indagare, a high-end US<br />

travel company, and a board member of the Center<br />

for Responsible Travel – was called by Italian colleagues<br />

who warned her: “Rome is empty. You have<br />

no idea how devastating this is going to be.” In those<br />

early days of the crisis, industry analysts reached for<br />

reassuring precedents. In 2009, international tourist<br />

arrivals fell by 4 per cent as a result of the global financial<br />

crisis. The following year the industry<br />

roared back with 6.7 per cent growth. After a series<br />

of terrorist attacks in Turkey in 2016, tourists stayed<br />

away, but Turkey’s loss was Spain’s gain, and the<br />

Costa Blanca experienced a surge in arrivals.<br />

It soon became clear that such comparisons<br />

were little help in understanding a global disease<br />

without a cure. In late March 2020, Bernstein, a<br />

leading research firm, sent a note to investors that<br />

replaced an earlier, merely gloomy assessment of<br />

the hotel industry’s prospects with a properly cataclysmic<br />

one. “Just two weeks ago we considered<br />

80 per cent revenue declines ‘highly unlikely’, and<br />

now adopt it as our base case,” the note ran. “How<br />

naive we were!” And that was before room occupation<br />

in Spain and Italy bottomed out at 5 per cent.<br />

Tourism accounts for around 15 per cent of<br />

Spain’s GDP and some 13 per cent of Italy’s. But<br />

painful though its loss is for the most diversified<br />

economies in southern Europe, it is life-threatening<br />

for tourism’s dependencies, such as the Maldives,<br />

where tourism contributes around a third of GDP,<br />

or for emerging destinations like Georgia, where<br />

visitor numbers have more than quadrupled in the<br />

past decade.<br />

Georgia: “One<br />

of Japaridze’s former<br />

guides, who used to<br />

take tour groups to<br />

the beautiful Svaneti<br />

region of Georgia,<br />

is now making ends<br />

meet by delivering<br />

food on his<br />

motorbike.”<br />

In April 2020, Edmund Bartlett, the tourism<br />

minister of Jamaica – where the industry brings<br />

in more than 50 per cent of the island’s foreign<br />

currency – bemoaned the fact that there had<br />

been “zero arrivals for Montego Bay’s airport,<br />

zero arrivals for Kingston’s airport and zero<br />

guests in hotels … on top of the 300,000 people<br />

who are without jobs because all of the transportation<br />

systems that support tourism are at a halt,<br />

[because] the farmers who support tourism have<br />

nowhere to sell their crops, [because] the attractions<br />

… are closed.”<br />

For all the money the industry usually brings<br />

in, one of the prices of allowing a place to be taken<br />

over by tourism is the way it distorts local development.<br />

Farmers sell their land to the hotel chain,<br />

only for the price of crops they once grew to<br />

inflate beyond their reach. Water is diverted to the<br />

golf course while the locals go short. The road is<br />

paved as far as the theme park, not the school. In<br />

its subordination of an economy to a powerful,<br />

capricious, external motor, tourism dependency<br />

has something in common with the aid dependency<br />

that I observed as a reporter in Afghanistan<br />

after the 2001 invasion. In both cases, the worst<br />

threat is the possibility of sudden withdrawal.<br />

topos 027


tourism after lockdown<br />

Boosting<br />

137 volcanic islands with beautiful beaches, lush nature,<br />

modern infrastructure, and a welcoming culture: Hawai’i<br />

is a dream destination for many. The 50th state of the<br />

United States of America has long welcomed millions of<br />

visitors every year. But the pandemic brought the island’s<br />

tourism industry to its knees, begging international<br />

visitors to delay their visit. Why was this necessary and<br />

what is the way ahead for Hawai’i?<br />

LAURA PUTTKAMER<br />

Aloha<br />

in Tourism<br />

Photos: Edmund Garman on flickr_Honolulu_Waikiki Beach<br />

034 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>


Hawai’i ’s capital<br />

Honolulu and its<br />

world-famous Waikiki<br />

Beach are a Mecca for<br />

tourists, whereas<br />

residents face challenges<br />

such as overcrowding,<br />

high cost of living and<br />

environmental damages.<br />

topos 035


tourism after lockdown<br />

Accessing<br />

Iceland’s volcanic activity has put the once anonymous<br />

North Atlantic island into the spotlight in recent years.<br />

Before the pandemic the vast wilderness and complexity of<br />

the landscape attracted tourists like never before, which<br />

eventually threatened to disbalance the fragile ecology of<br />

virgin sites. When it comes to tackling the side effects of<br />

tourism on the planners’ side, the Saxhöll stairway in<br />

Snaefellsjökull national park is a successful example. In a<br />

post-pandemic perspective, landscape architects and planners<br />

may need to develop ways to guide and educate visitors<br />

that include a greater awareness of the soul of a place.<br />

ANNA-MARIA PERSHAGEN<br />

Volcanic<br />

Landscapes<br />

052 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>


Photo: Landslag<br />

Saxhöll Stairway at<br />

Iceland's Snaefellsjökull<br />

glacier demonstrates how<br />

landscape architects can<br />

balance the conflict<br />

between preserving<br />

unique environments<br />

while still pro viding<br />

access to them.<br />

topos 053


tourism after lockdown<br />

Cruise Ship MS Azura<br />

anchored off<br />

Teignmouth during<br />

lockdown.<br />

Changing<br />

Course<br />

Only a few tourism sectors are as controversial as the<br />

cruise ship industry: some people strongly oppose it,<br />

others are fond of it. The latter group seems to be<br />

growing, as cruises are attracting more passengers<br />

every year. 2020 was supposed to be a record year,<br />

but the pandemic ended the season before it began.<br />

Yet the pandemic also marked a change of course for<br />

an industry that has always been in transition since<br />

its beginnings.<br />

MAGDALENA SCHMIDKUNZ<br />

Discussions about the cruise industry –<br />

ranging from environmental concerns to the<br />

very questions of how enjoyable holidays on<br />

a ship can be – split people into two<br />

camps: those who support it and those who<br />

oppose it. There is hardly a divide as black<br />

and white as cruise vacations, neither<br />

camping vacations nor hotel vacations on the<br />

Adriatic compare.<br />

Among other things, critics see the<br />

development of cruising into mass tourism<br />

as a problem for people and nature. For a<br />

long time, cruises were only affordable for<br />

the wealthy and offered an opportunity to<br />

celebrate a kind of high society lifestyle in<br />

America that had actually long been a thing<br />

of the past. Therefore, at the end of the 1960s,<br />

Carnival Corporation & plc (then: Carnival<br />

Cruise Lines), together with Royal Caribbean<br />

Group (then: Royal Caribbean Cruises) and<br />

Norwegian Cruise Line, decided to reorient<br />

cruise tourism; turning the privilege of a few<br />

into a vacation option for the masses. They<br />

had ships built for the American market that<br />

would appeal to the middle and working<br />

classes alike. The new cruise ships from<br />

Carnival, Royal Caribbean and Norwegian<br />

hailed the motto “fun and sun for everyone”.<br />

In this fashion, instead of fancy evening<br />

gowns and jackets, passengers now moved<br />

about the deck in jeans and T-shirts.<br />

Suitable Cruise for everyone<br />

The cruise giants continued to pursue their<br />

“fun and sun” concept with conviction, even<br />

though the industry increasingly suffered<br />

from a fusty image of pensioners in the 1980s<br />

and 90s. At the turn of the millennium,<br />

Carnival Corporation & plc actually<br />

succeeded in appealing to a new, young<br />

audience with its subsidiary AIDA. It<br />

Photo: Ray Harrington on Unsplash<br />

072 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>


invested billions of U.S. Dollars in the<br />

construction of new so-called “fun ships”<br />

along with targeted advertising campaigns.<br />

To great economic success. These “fun ships”<br />

offer an extensive entertainment program<br />

consisting of come- together events and<br />

exuberant parties – tailored to a wide variety<br />

of target groups. Everyone’s idea of fun is<br />

catered for: high-school graduates, heavy<br />

metal fans, wine lovers, young families – the<br />

list goes on and on, and there is a suitable<br />

cruise offer for everyone.<br />

The cruise crisis<br />

The influx of passengers and the associated<br />

construction of new and, above all, ever<br />

larger ships, have caused the cruise industry<br />

as a tourism sector to grow steadily since the<br />

turn of the millennium. According to<br />

cruisemarketwatch.com, an American<br />

website that publishes statistics on the cruise<br />

industry, passenger numbers increased by<br />

6.6 per cent annually between 1990 and 2019.<br />

But in 2020, the boom came to a halt. The<br />

shipping companies’ fleets were forced into a<br />

standstill for a total of eleven months. The<br />

Covid pandemic ended the cruise season<br />

before it could even begin. Two years later,<br />

cruises are still underutilized, and passengers<br />

are occasionally forced to terminate their<br />

cruises early because Covid has gotten on<br />

board unnoticed. Smaller shipping<br />

companies are suffering from a severe lack of<br />

revenue. Unlike the “big four” – Carnival<br />

Corporation & plc, Royal Caribbean Cruises,<br />

Norwegian Cruise Line and MSC Cruises –<br />

they can only rely to a limited extent on<br />

purely sea-based, so-called “blue voyages.”<br />

They rely financially on stops with shore<br />

excursions. Their ships can also only offer a<br />

comparatively limited range of bars, casinos,<br />

shopping and leisure facilities. The 5.000-bed<br />

ship AIDAnova, on the other hand, has a film<br />

studio, for example, which transmits<br />

in-house developed TV shows on board to<br />

screens in the cabins. Guests don’t even have<br />

to leave their private rooms on the ship for<br />

entertainment. Smaller liners simply cannot<br />

offer this level of comfort at sea.<br />

Although the major cruise companies<br />

have been able to draw on more resources<br />

and alternatives over the past two years, they<br />

too have suffered from the constraints of the<br />

pandemic. In 2020, the estimated revenue of<br />

the global cruise industry was 4.3 billion U.S.<br />

Dollars (see cruisemarketwatch.com).<br />

Compared to the previous year, 2019, the<br />

numbers represent an 88 per cent decline – a<br />

loss for the industry that spares no cruise<br />

line. But most cruise lines are nonetheless<br />

optimistic about the future. After all, they<br />

have already been able to increase their sales<br />

again by 81.8 per cent in the pandemic year<br />

2021 compared to 2020 – even if this growth<br />

means the industry is still a long way from<br />

reaching prepandemic levels.<br />

Old becomes new<br />

It may sound paradoxical, but not only<br />

tourist shipping could suffer from the cruise<br />

crisis in the longer term, but also the<br />

environment. Intuitively, one would have to<br />

say that the worse off the cruise industry is,<br />

the better it is for the environment and the<br />

climate. After all, every ship that doesn’t<br />

leave port means less fossil fuel consumption<br />

and fewer emissions of CO 2 , which accelerates<br />

climate change. However, it is not<br />

realistically foreseeable that cruises as an<br />

industry will come to a complete halt, and<br />

the pandemic-related, financial losses could,<br />

on top of that, condition shipping companies<br />

to invest less money in the future towards the<br />

implementation of truly green and sustainable<br />

cruise shipping. “All cruises to date are<br />

powered by fossil fuels, most of them by<br />

heavy fuel oil, the most toxic and dirty fuel<br />

there is in the world,” says Sönke Diesener,<br />

environmental officer of NABU, Germany’s<br />

environmental association with the largest<br />

membership. For cruise ships to be<br />

climate-neutral and for shipping companies<br />

to achieve the climate targets they have<br />

set themselves, however, investment in<br />

alternative propulsion systems and synthetic<br />

fuels based on renewable electricity<br />

would be imperative.<br />

And there is indeed hope: “The pandemic<br />

is a major challenge. But at least the shipping<br />

companies we have been in contact with have<br />

not put their environmental ambitions on<br />

hold for the time being. That’s good news,”<br />

says Sönke Diesener. As a trained geographer<br />

specializing in the maritime context, he takes<br />

a positive approach to these developments.<br />

By 2040, Diesener says, it is indeed expected<br />

that cruise shipping will be completely<br />

climate neutral – despite or perhaps even<br />

because of the pandemic? “Right now, we<br />

assume that the pandemic period also had a<br />

positive impact on the industry. Quite a few<br />

old, very inefficient, cruise ships were<br />

scrapped. Nearly 40 ships worldwide with the<br />

worst environmental performance were<br />

taken out of service.” They were either sold<br />

or scrapped, and in some cases replaced<br />

with new, more efficient ships – an important<br />

long-term step toward a climateneutral<br />

cruise industry.<br />

Nevertheless, Sönke Diesener responds<br />

with a definite “no” to the question if it is<br />

perfectly sensible to seek one’s “sun and<br />

fun” experience on a cruise ship several<br />

times a year.<br />

topos 073

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