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tourism after lockdown<br />
to po<br />
no <strong>118</strong><br />
2022<br />
s.<br />
PLACES<br />
– Travel with us to<br />
Bangkok, Barcelona,<br />
Dubrovnik, Hawaii,<br />
Iceland and Venice<br />
CITY MAKERS<br />
– Interviews with Luigi<br />
Brugnaro, Xavier Marcé<br />
and Yuthasak Supasorn<br />
$ COMPANIES<br />
– Reality check with<br />
Lonely Planet, FairBnB<br />
and cruise companies in<br />
times of pandemic and<br />
overtourism
COVER<br />
PHOTO: Filip Wolak<br />
A lonely, deserted Times Square in New York<br />
City. Who could have ever imagined that? In<br />
his aerial picture series “A Still Life - Pandemic<br />
Landscapes”, the photographer Filip Wolak<br />
captured once unimaginable situations during<br />
the pandemic in the US. Read more on page 16.<br />
What a crazy time!<br />
The pandemic is still<br />
raging around the<br />
world. After about<br />
two years of cuts and<br />
abandonment, more<br />
countries are nevertheless<br />
coming to the conclusion to relax Covid<br />
measures, sometimes drastically.<br />
It is time for global tourism to develop a new<br />
identity. After lockdown, will we ever be able to<br />
travel as we did before? What will the tourism of<br />
the future look like? How do we deal with the<br />
problems of overtourism in cities and regions?<br />
There are many question around tourism, and<br />
answers as well as solutions are unfortunately<br />
not yet sufficiently apparent in many places. For<br />
cities, the endless crowds of visitors were a real<br />
problem before Covid. Now it is a question of<br />
reactivating tourism in a way that is not only<br />
environmentally friendly, but also compatible<br />
with the inhabitants. What approaches are cities<br />
like Barcelona, Venice and Bangkok taking?<br />
How do Iceland and Hawaii want to deal with<br />
overtourism and what influence does social<br />
media have on tourist crowds? Of course, in this<br />
issue of topos, we are not just looking at ideas<br />
on how to deal with overtourism but trying to<br />
identify real solutions for sustainable tourism<br />
for the cities of the future.<br />
Some may wonder what topos magazine has to<br />
do with tourism. This question can be answered<br />
quite simply. Almost every metropolis on this<br />
planet has to deal with the effects of an evergrowing<br />
traveling crowd. Too many visitors can<br />
displace the inhabitants of cities and unfortunately<br />
often leave a swathe of devastation in<br />
their wake. Apparently, many people care more<br />
about producing memories than immersing<br />
themselves in foreign cultures or societies. Thus,<br />
whole areas of cities become more difficult for<br />
residents to access and swathes of land are destroyed.<br />
With topos, we want to look at future life<br />
in the sustainable city and discuss the responsibility<br />
of planners and city makers such as mayors<br />
and city councils, but also the social responsibility<br />
of companies in this. We want to play a part in<br />
answering the questions of overtourism.<br />
Now is the time to make tourism more<br />
sustainable. First and foremost, cities need to<br />
deal differently with visitor flows and develop<br />
new mobility concepts. Cities will also have to<br />
bring residents and tourists together. The city<br />
of the future offers space for everyone. We all<br />
carry part of the responsibility and must make<br />
our cities more liveable. Deplorable conditions<br />
and a lack of innovation must be overcome.<br />
We will all have a say in what the final<br />
solutions to overtourism issues look like. But<br />
if we do not manage to find a new way of<br />
dealing with urban tourism now, after the<br />
numerous lockdown phases, it will be difficult<br />
to develop solutions later.<br />
This topos is about addressing the elephant in<br />
the room and showing how it can work.<br />
Enjoy reading.<br />
TOPOS E-PAPER: AVAIL-<br />
ABLE FOR YOUR DESKTOP<br />
For more information visit:<br />
www.toposmagazine.com/epaper<br />
TOBIAS HAGER<br />
Chief Content Officer<br />
t.hager@georg-media.de<br />
topos 005
Contents<br />
THE BIG PICTURE<br />
Page 8<br />
OPINION<br />
Page 10<br />
CURATED PRODUCTS<br />
Page 100<br />
REFERENCE<br />
Page 106<br />
METROPOLIS EXPLAINED<br />
Page 12<br />
A STILL LIFE –<br />
PANDEMIC LANDSCAPES<br />
Page 16<br />
A STILL LIFE –<br />
PANDEMIC LANDSCAPES<br />
Picture series and text by Filip Wolak – Part 1<br />
Page 16<br />
THE END OF TOURISM?<br />
A look into the past, the present and<br />
the future of tourism<br />
Page 24<br />
PILGRIMS AND FOLLOWERS<br />
Venice between the needs of residents and<br />
the demands of tourists<br />
Page 62<br />
“USING DATA ALLOWS US TO (...) MAKE THE CITY<br />
MORE LIVEABLE FOR ITS RESIDENTS.”<br />
Interview with Luigi Brugnaro, Mayor of Venice<br />
Page 68<br />
ESCAPE PLAN<br />
Page 112<br />
EDGE CITY<br />
Page 114<br />
IMPRINT<br />
Page 113<br />
BOOSTING ALOHA IN TOURISM<br />
The pandemic brought Hawaii’s tourism industry to its<br />
knees, begging international visitors to delay their visit<br />
Page 34<br />
CHANGING COURSE<br />
Few tourism industries seem as controversial as the<br />
cruise ship industry. A reflection.<br />
Page 72<br />
BARCELONA – WHEN A CITY IS A BRAND<br />
The city of Gaudì between the tourist gaze and its<br />
search for a sustainable future<br />
Page 40<br />
“BARCELONA IS NO HOLIDAY DESTINATION,<br />
IT’S AN URBAN EXPERIENCE.”<br />
Interview with Xavier Marcé, the Councilor for Tourism<br />
and Creative Industries at Barcelona City Council<br />
Page 48<br />
ACCESSING VOLCANIC LANDSCAPES<br />
Iceland's tourism best practice – the Saxhöll stairway<br />
in Snaefellsjökull national park<br />
Page 52<br />
THE NONCONFORMISTS<br />
A portrait of FairBnB<br />
Page 58<br />
THE CHALLENGES OF TOURISM – IN A NUTSHELL<br />
Page 60/61<br />
RECOVERY IN PARADISE<br />
Thailand’s way to sustainable tourism<br />
Page 74<br />
“MASS TOURISM IS NO LONGER THE ANSWER FOR<br />
OUR SUSTAINABLE FUTURE”<br />
Interview with Yuthasak Supasorn, the Governor of the<br />
Tourism Authority of Thailand<br />
Page 82<br />
“WE DON’T STAY AWAY FROM DESTINATIONS THAT<br />
HAVE HAD LARGE NUMBERS OF VISITORS”<br />
Interview with Tom Hall from Lonely Planet<br />
Page 86<br />
A STILL LIFE –<br />
PANDEMIC LANDSCAPES<br />
Picture series and text by Filip Wolak – Part 2<br />
Page 90<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
Page 98<br />
ACCESSING VOLCANIC<br />
LANDSCAPES<br />
Page 52<br />
Photos: Filip Wolak (above); Landslag<br />
006 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>
OPINION<br />
Tobias Hager<br />
Journalist and Chief Content Officer<br />
“COLLECT<br />
MOMENTS,<br />
NOT<br />
SOCIAL MEDIA<br />
POSTS”<br />
International society has perfected the art of making itself “instagrammable”.<br />
We’re not just talking about Ariana Grande, Ronaldo and the like. Architects<br />
and planners – such as Bjarke Ingels and Norman Foster for example – have<br />
also perfected the art of presenting themselves on the social media platform<br />
Instagram. It’s hardly surprising, then, that social media also massively determines<br />
our travel behavior. The problem: the cities themselves still use the platforms<br />
far too little. Yet they would be ideal for better guiding tourist flows.<br />
010 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>
Opinion<br />
Even though it is hard to imagine – there was<br />
a time before the pandemic. A time when it<br />
was hardly possible to visit sights or worldfamous<br />
cities without crowds of people. After<br />
more and more people around the globe<br />
discovered the joy of traveling, it didn’t take<br />
long until many European cities in particular<br />
had more problems than benefits from the<br />
crowds of visitors. This was fuelled by social<br />
media. Instagram, TikTok and many other<br />
social networks were platforms for pictures in<br />
front of the same motifs and backgrounds.<br />
The so-called Instagram hotspots were a help<br />
at first, but then developed into a real problem<br />
for many cities and inhabitants. It was no<br />
longer possible to cope with the crowds and<br />
some regions were so badly affected that<br />
normal coexistence among the inhabitants no<br />
longer seemed possible. Then Covid came and<br />
suddenly the tourism industry worldwide was<br />
down. Some of the former tourist routes were<br />
reclaimed by their inhabitants. Travel posts<br />
and the influence of social networks on<br />
people’s travel behavior inevitably reduced.<br />
Experts now fear that with reduction of contact<br />
restrictions, the calm before the storm will come<br />
to an end and in a short time we will have to deal<br />
with even more tourists than before the<br />
pandemic. The memories are still there, of the<br />
horror stories in which an overwhelming<br />
number of tourists leave significant damage to<br />
the environment. Case in point: After pop singer<br />
Justin Bieber filmed a music video in Iceland<br />
and it went viral on social media in 2015, over a<br />
million people made their way to visit this particular<br />
gorge in a short period of time. In 2018,<br />
the authorities had to close access to give nature<br />
a rest. Something similar happened in Germany.<br />
A natural “infinity pool” attracted many tourists<br />
to Bavaria. Too many people wanted a photo in<br />
front of the breathtaking scenery. In 2021, the<br />
authorities closed the pool for five years.<br />
Social media are multiplication platforms.<br />
They do not only generate uncontrolled<br />
tourist flows. Nowadays, these platforms take<br />
on an important role in terms of information<br />
gathering. Many people choose their travel<br />
destinations and routes through cities only via<br />
Instagram and the like. Which restaurants are<br />
trending? Where are the best drinks? Which<br />
museums and exhibitions should I see in a<br />
foreign city? For many people, these and other<br />
questions are now only answered via social<br />
media. More and more cities have discovered<br />
social media for their own marketing activities.<br />
Unfortunately, however, these efforts are still<br />
in their infancy in many places.<br />
If one wants to seriously influence the streams<br />
of visitors that are channeled through the<br />
cities of the world via social networks, then<br />
cities need to understand where their visitors<br />
are. Data collected through social networks<br />
and other services needs to be better analyzed.<br />
Ultimately, there is no getting around one fact:<br />
too many cities still have a massive amount of<br />
catching up to do when it comes to digitalization.<br />
First and foremost, they need to better<br />
understand digital platforms. And no, a Facebook<br />
page alone is no longer enough. If cities<br />
understand the platforms on which they reach<br />
tourists, they can also place suitable offers. The<br />
poster in the underground station no longer<br />
cuts it.<br />
The fact is, the pandemic has offered us a small<br />
glimpse of the beauty of our sights and<br />
hotspots. We should take inspiration from<br />
this. Social media now plays a central role in<br />
tourists’ travel planning and leisure activities.<br />
Through social media, you can reach residents<br />
as well as tourists, and with clear thoughts as<br />
well as ideas, we can certainly find some<br />
exciting solutions on how to deal with the ever<br />
increasing number of tourists in the future<br />
and, above all, how to communicate digitally.<br />
Hopefully, at some point we will be able to<br />
ensure that visiting a city is no longer just<br />
about producing social media posts, but about<br />
experiences that break down barriers and<br />
prejudices and contribute to creating a more<br />
peaceful future for all of us.<br />
TOBIAS HAGER is a journalist and Chief Content<br />
Officer and member of the management board at<br />
GEORG Media. Responsible for all GEORG brands<br />
such as topos magazine, BAUMEISTER and<br />
Garten + Landschaft, his focus is on the areas of<br />
content, digital, marketing and entrepreneurship.<br />
topos 011
tourism after lockdown<br />
A Still Life –<br />
Pandemic<br />
Landscapes<br />
Emptied cities, skies, airports, stadiums, deserted parking lots, roads,<br />
schools, workplaces… 2020, a year where our world stood still, holding<br />
its breath and bracing for challenges unknown to the modern, developed<br />
world. This photo series is a visual story of human environments,<br />
but distanced from the personal and dramatic demise which the pandemic<br />
has caused to so many. Let this selection bear silent witness to<br />
the changes that have affected us all during the course of the past two<br />
years.These photographs were taken from a small airplane – (a Cessna<br />
172 nicknamed Rusty for it’s original 1973 paint) – whilst crossing the<br />
continent during the early months of the pandemic. The original series<br />
has been supplemented by images taken a year later, as the vaccination<br />
efforts were in full swing.<br />
PICTURE SERIES AND TEXT BY FILIP WOLAK<br />
016 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>
JFK AIRPORT, NEW YORK<br />
An unusually silent JFK airport during the peak of the COVID-19 crisis (May 2020). Over the course of this shoot, no movement<br />
was observed when just a few months earlier this was the usual hive of activity. A thick cloud layer had started moving in over<br />
the airport, and its sharp boundary revealed the unique partial sun / partial shade lighting conditions.<br />
topos 017
tourism after lockdown<br />
The end<br />
of<br />
024 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>
tourism?<br />
The pandemic has devastated global tourism, and many will say ‘good riddance’<br />
to overcrowded cities and rubbish-strewn natural wonders. Is there any way to<br />
reinvent an industry that does so much damage?<br />
CHRISTOPHER DE BELLAIGUE<br />
topos 025
tourism after lockdown<br />
Of all the calamities that befell tourists as the coronavirus<br />
took hold, those involving cruise ships stood<br />
apart. Contagion at sea inspired a special horror, as<br />
pleasure palaces turned into prison hulks, and rumours<br />
of infection on board spread between fetid<br />
cabins via WhatsApp. Trapped in close proximity to<br />
their fellow passengers, holidaymakers experienced<br />
the distress of being both victims and agents of infection,<br />
as a succession of ports refused them entry.<br />
When it began, the deadly situation at sea was<br />
seen as a freakish outgrowth of what many still<br />
thought of as a Chinese problem. The first ship to<br />
suffer a major outbreak was the Diamond Princess.<br />
By mid-February 2020, 355 cases had been confirmed<br />
aboard, and the ship was held in quarantine<br />
in the port of Yokohama. At the time, the ship accounted<br />
for more than half of reported cases outside<br />
China. Fourteen passengers on the Diamond<br />
Princess would die of the virus.<br />
The nightmare at sea continued for a long time.<br />
Even after passengers from more than 30 afflicted<br />
cruise ships were allowed to disembark, and flooded<br />
into hospitals, quarantine hotels or on to charter<br />
flights home, an estimated 100,000 crew and staff<br />
remained trapped at sea, some in quarantine, others<br />
blocked from disembarking until their employers<br />
could make onward travel arrangements. This<br />
second drama led to a mass hunger strike – by<br />
15 Romanian crew in limbo off the coast of Florida<br />
– and a police intervention to quell disturbances on<br />
a ship quarantined in the German port of Cuxhaven.<br />
As recently as 1st June 2020, crew and staff aboard<br />
20-odd cruise ships marooned in Manila Bay were<br />
reportedly clamouring to be allowed ashore.<br />
CRUISE SHIPS: Few tourism industries seem<br />
more controversial – learn more about<br />
it on page 72<br />
Cruises have become a symbol of the ravages that<br />
coronavirus has inflicted on tourism. A sector that<br />
until January 2020 was worth 150 billion U.S. Dollar,<br />
by its own estimate, cut jobs, issued debt and<br />
discounted furiously simply to survive. But even<br />
before the Covid crisis hit, cruising had become<br />
symptomatic of the damage that tourism wreaks on<br />
the world.<br />
Tourism is an unusual industry in that the<br />
assets it monetises – a view, a reef, a cathedral – do<br />
not belong to it. The world’s dominant cruise companies<br />
– Carnival, Royal Caribbean and Norwegian<br />
– pay little towards the upkeep of the public goods<br />
they live off. By incorporating themselves in overseas<br />
tax havens with benign environmental and<br />
labour laws – respectively Panama, Liberia and Bermuda<br />
– cruising’s big three, which account for<br />
three-quarters of the industry, get to enjoy low taxes<br />
and avoid much irksome regulation, while polluting<br />
the air and sea, eroding coastlines and pouring<br />
tens of millions of people into picturesque ports of<br />
call that often cannot cope with them.<br />
Pre-pandemic<br />
forecast:<br />
Chinese travellers<br />
were expected to<br />
make 160 million<br />
trips abroad<br />
What goes for cruises goes for to most of the travel<br />
industry. For decades, a small number of environmentally<br />
minded reformists in the sector have tried<br />
to develop sustainable tourism that creates enduring<br />
employment while minimising the damage it<br />
does. But most hotel groups, tour operators and<br />
national tourism authorities – whatever their stated<br />
commitment to sustainable tourism – continue to<br />
prioritise the economies of scale that inevitably lead<br />
to more tourists paying less money and heaping<br />
more pressure on those same assets. Before the pandemic,<br />
industry experts were forecasting that international<br />
arrivals would rise by between three and<br />
four per cent in 2020. Chinese travellers, the largest<br />
and fastest-growing cohort in world tourism, were<br />
expected to make 160 million trips abroad, a 27 per<br />
cent increase on the 2015 figure.<br />
The virus has given us a picture, at once frightening<br />
and beautiful, of a world without tourism. We<br />
saw what happens to our public goods when tourists<br />
aren’t clustering to exploit them. Shorelines enjoy a<br />
respite from the erosion caused by cruise ships the<br />
size of canyons. Walkers stuck at home cannot litter<br />
mountainsides. Intricate culinary cultures are no<br />
longer menaced by triangles of defrosted pizza. It is<br />
hard to imagine a better illustration of tourism’s<br />
effects than our current holiday away from it.<br />
Coronavirus has also revealed the danger of<br />
overreliance on tourism, demonstrating in brutal<br />
fashion what happens when the industry supporting<br />
an entire community, at the expense of any<br />
other more sustainable activity, collapses. On 7 May<br />
026 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>
2020, the UN World Tourism Organisation estimated<br />
that earnings from international tourism<br />
might be down 80 per cent in the year 2020 against<br />
2019’s figure of 1.7 billion U.S. Dollar, and that<br />
120 million jobs could be lost. Since tourism relies<br />
on the same human mobility that spreads disease,<br />
and will be subject to the most stringent and lasting<br />
restrictions, it is likely to suffer more than almost<br />
any other economic activity.<br />
As tourism’s impact on the world has deepened,<br />
so the global economy has come to depend on it.<br />
After the freeze forced upon foreign travel –<br />
unimaginable even some months ago – we have a<br />
rare opportunity to extract ourselves from this<br />
destructive cycle, and do things differently.<br />
To accusations that it is spoiling the planet, the<br />
tourism industry responds with an economic<br />
argument: one in ten jobs in the world depend on it.<br />
Governments tend to like tourism, because it<br />
creates jobs in the time it takes a hotel to open and<br />
the hot water to come on – and it brings in plenty of<br />
foreign money.<br />
Spain and Italy:<br />
When room<br />
occupation bottomed<br />
out at 5 per cent<br />
One industry advocate I spoke to quoted Lelei<br />
Lelaulu, a development entrepreneur who, in 2007,<br />
described tourism as “the largest voluntary transfer<br />
of cash from the rich to the poor, the ‘haves’ to ‘have<br />
nots’, in history”. Even if one allows for considerable<br />
“leakage” – whereby much of tourists’ expenditure<br />
doesn’t go to the destination country but to foreign<br />
tour agencies, airlines and hotel chains whose<br />
services they use – it cannot be denied that<br />
Australians have spent liberally in Bali, Americans<br />
in Cancún and Chinese in Bangkok.<br />
At the end of January 2020, when the flow of Chinese<br />
tourists to Europe dried up, Melissa Biggs<br />
Bradley – the founder of Indagare, a high-end US<br />
travel company, and a board member of the Center<br />
for Responsible Travel – was called by Italian colleagues<br />
who warned her: “Rome is empty. You have<br />
no idea how devastating this is going to be.” In those<br />
early days of the crisis, industry analysts reached for<br />
reassuring precedents. In 2009, international tourist<br />
arrivals fell by 4 per cent as a result of the global financial<br />
crisis. The following year the industry<br />
roared back with 6.7 per cent growth. After a series<br />
of terrorist attacks in Turkey in 2016, tourists stayed<br />
away, but Turkey’s loss was Spain’s gain, and the<br />
Costa Blanca experienced a surge in arrivals.<br />
It soon became clear that such comparisons<br />
were little help in understanding a global disease<br />
without a cure. In late March 2020, Bernstein, a<br />
leading research firm, sent a note to investors that<br />
replaced an earlier, merely gloomy assessment of<br />
the hotel industry’s prospects with a properly cataclysmic<br />
one. “Just two weeks ago we considered<br />
80 per cent revenue declines ‘highly unlikely’, and<br />
now adopt it as our base case,” the note ran. “How<br />
naive we were!” And that was before room occupation<br />
in Spain and Italy bottomed out at 5 per cent.<br />
Tourism accounts for around 15 per cent of<br />
Spain’s GDP and some 13 per cent of Italy’s. But<br />
painful though its loss is for the most diversified<br />
economies in southern Europe, it is life-threatening<br />
for tourism’s dependencies, such as the Maldives,<br />
where tourism contributes around a third of GDP,<br />
or for emerging destinations like Georgia, where<br />
visitor numbers have more than quadrupled in the<br />
past decade.<br />
Georgia: “One<br />
of Japaridze’s former<br />
guides, who used to<br />
take tour groups to<br />
the beautiful Svaneti<br />
region of Georgia,<br />
is now making ends<br />
meet by delivering<br />
food on his<br />
motorbike.”<br />
In April 2020, Edmund Bartlett, the tourism<br />
minister of Jamaica – where the industry brings<br />
in more than 50 per cent of the island’s foreign<br />
currency – bemoaned the fact that there had<br />
been “zero arrivals for Montego Bay’s airport,<br />
zero arrivals for Kingston’s airport and zero<br />
guests in hotels … on top of the 300,000 people<br />
who are without jobs because all of the transportation<br />
systems that support tourism are at a halt,<br />
[because] the farmers who support tourism have<br />
nowhere to sell their crops, [because] the attractions<br />
… are closed.”<br />
For all the money the industry usually brings<br />
in, one of the prices of allowing a place to be taken<br />
over by tourism is the way it distorts local development.<br />
Farmers sell their land to the hotel chain,<br />
only for the price of crops they once grew to<br />
inflate beyond their reach. Water is diverted to the<br />
golf course while the locals go short. The road is<br />
paved as far as the theme park, not the school. In<br />
its subordination of an economy to a powerful,<br />
capricious, external motor, tourism dependency<br />
has something in common with the aid dependency<br />
that I observed as a reporter in Afghanistan<br />
after the 2001 invasion. In both cases, the worst<br />
threat is the possibility of sudden withdrawal.<br />
topos 027
tourism after lockdown<br />
Boosting<br />
137 volcanic islands with beautiful beaches, lush nature,<br />
modern infrastructure, and a welcoming culture: Hawai’i<br />
is a dream destination for many. The 50th state of the<br />
United States of America has long welcomed millions of<br />
visitors every year. But the pandemic brought the island’s<br />
tourism industry to its knees, begging international<br />
visitors to delay their visit. Why was this necessary and<br />
what is the way ahead for Hawai’i?<br />
LAURA PUTTKAMER<br />
Aloha<br />
in Tourism<br />
Photos: Edmund Garman on flickr_Honolulu_Waikiki Beach<br />
034 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>
Hawai’i ’s capital<br />
Honolulu and its<br />
world-famous Waikiki<br />
Beach are a Mecca for<br />
tourists, whereas<br />
residents face challenges<br />
such as overcrowding,<br />
high cost of living and<br />
environmental damages.<br />
topos 035
tourism after lockdown<br />
Accessing<br />
Iceland’s volcanic activity has put the once anonymous<br />
North Atlantic island into the spotlight in recent years.<br />
Before the pandemic the vast wilderness and complexity of<br />
the landscape attracted tourists like never before, which<br />
eventually threatened to disbalance the fragile ecology of<br />
virgin sites. When it comes to tackling the side effects of<br />
tourism on the planners’ side, the Saxhöll stairway in<br />
Snaefellsjökull national park is a successful example. In a<br />
post-pandemic perspective, landscape architects and planners<br />
may need to develop ways to guide and educate visitors<br />
that include a greater awareness of the soul of a place.<br />
ANNA-MARIA PERSHAGEN<br />
Volcanic<br />
Landscapes<br />
052 topos ISSUE <strong>118</strong>
Photo: Landslag<br />
Saxhöll Stairway at<br />
Iceland's Snaefellsjökull<br />
glacier demonstrates how<br />
landscape architects can<br />
balance the conflict<br />
between preserving<br />
unique environments<br />
while still pro viding<br />
access to them.<br />
topos 053
tourism after lockdown<br />
Cruise Ship MS Azura<br />
anchored off<br />
Teignmouth during<br />
lockdown.<br />
Changing<br />
Course<br />
Only a few tourism sectors are as controversial as the<br />
cruise ship industry: some people strongly oppose it,<br />
others are fond of it. The latter group seems to be<br />
growing, as cruises are attracting more passengers<br />
every year. 2020 was supposed to be a record year,<br />
but the pandemic ended the season before it began.<br />
Yet the pandemic also marked a change of course for<br />
an industry that has always been in transition since<br />
its beginnings.<br />
MAGDALENA SCHMIDKUNZ<br />
Discussions about the cruise industry –<br />
ranging from environmental concerns to the<br />
very questions of how enjoyable holidays on<br />
a ship can be – split people into two<br />
camps: those who support it and those who<br />
oppose it. There is hardly a divide as black<br />
and white as cruise vacations, neither<br />
camping vacations nor hotel vacations on the<br />
Adriatic compare.<br />
Among other things, critics see the<br />
development of cruising into mass tourism<br />
as a problem for people and nature. For a<br />
long time, cruises were only affordable for<br />
the wealthy and offered an opportunity to<br />
celebrate a kind of high society lifestyle in<br />
America that had actually long been a thing<br />
of the past. Therefore, at the end of the 1960s,<br />
Carnival Corporation & plc (then: Carnival<br />
Cruise Lines), together with Royal Caribbean<br />
Group (then: Royal Caribbean Cruises) and<br />
Norwegian Cruise Line, decided to reorient<br />
cruise tourism; turning the privilege of a few<br />
into a vacation option for the masses. They<br />
had ships built for the American market that<br />
would appeal to the middle and working<br />
classes alike. The new cruise ships from<br />
Carnival, Royal Caribbean and Norwegian<br />
hailed the motto “fun and sun for everyone”.<br />
In this fashion, instead of fancy evening<br />
gowns and jackets, passengers now moved<br />
about the deck in jeans and T-shirts.<br />
Suitable Cruise for everyone<br />
The cruise giants continued to pursue their<br />
“fun and sun” concept with conviction, even<br />
though the industry increasingly suffered<br />
from a fusty image of pensioners in the 1980s<br />
and 90s. At the turn of the millennium,<br />
Carnival Corporation & plc actually<br />
succeeded in appealing to a new, young<br />
audience with its subsidiary AIDA. It<br />
Photo: Ray Harrington on Unsplash<br />
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invested billions of U.S. Dollars in the<br />
construction of new so-called “fun ships”<br />
along with targeted advertising campaigns.<br />
To great economic success. These “fun ships”<br />
offer an extensive entertainment program<br />
consisting of come- together events and<br />
exuberant parties – tailored to a wide variety<br />
of target groups. Everyone’s idea of fun is<br />
catered for: high-school graduates, heavy<br />
metal fans, wine lovers, young families – the<br />
list goes on and on, and there is a suitable<br />
cruise offer for everyone.<br />
The cruise crisis<br />
The influx of passengers and the associated<br />
construction of new and, above all, ever<br />
larger ships, have caused the cruise industry<br />
as a tourism sector to grow steadily since the<br />
turn of the millennium. According to<br />
cruisemarketwatch.com, an American<br />
website that publishes statistics on the cruise<br />
industry, passenger numbers increased by<br />
6.6 per cent annually between 1990 and 2019.<br />
But in 2020, the boom came to a halt. The<br />
shipping companies’ fleets were forced into a<br />
standstill for a total of eleven months. The<br />
Covid pandemic ended the cruise season<br />
before it could even begin. Two years later,<br />
cruises are still underutilized, and passengers<br />
are occasionally forced to terminate their<br />
cruises early because Covid has gotten on<br />
board unnoticed. Smaller shipping<br />
companies are suffering from a severe lack of<br />
revenue. Unlike the “big four” – Carnival<br />
Corporation & plc, Royal Caribbean Cruises,<br />
Norwegian Cruise Line and MSC Cruises –<br />
they can only rely to a limited extent on<br />
purely sea-based, so-called “blue voyages.”<br />
They rely financially on stops with shore<br />
excursions. Their ships can also only offer a<br />
comparatively limited range of bars, casinos,<br />
shopping and leisure facilities. The 5.000-bed<br />
ship AIDAnova, on the other hand, has a film<br />
studio, for example, which transmits<br />
in-house developed TV shows on board to<br />
screens in the cabins. Guests don’t even have<br />
to leave their private rooms on the ship for<br />
entertainment. Smaller liners simply cannot<br />
offer this level of comfort at sea.<br />
Although the major cruise companies<br />
have been able to draw on more resources<br />
and alternatives over the past two years, they<br />
too have suffered from the constraints of the<br />
pandemic. In 2020, the estimated revenue of<br />
the global cruise industry was 4.3 billion U.S.<br />
Dollars (see cruisemarketwatch.com).<br />
Compared to the previous year, 2019, the<br />
numbers represent an 88 per cent decline – a<br />
loss for the industry that spares no cruise<br />
line. But most cruise lines are nonetheless<br />
optimistic about the future. After all, they<br />
have already been able to increase their sales<br />
again by 81.8 per cent in the pandemic year<br />
2021 compared to 2020 – even if this growth<br />
means the industry is still a long way from<br />
reaching prepandemic levels.<br />
Old becomes new<br />
It may sound paradoxical, but not only<br />
tourist shipping could suffer from the cruise<br />
crisis in the longer term, but also the<br />
environment. Intuitively, one would have to<br />
say that the worse off the cruise industry is,<br />
the better it is for the environment and the<br />
climate. After all, every ship that doesn’t<br />
leave port means less fossil fuel consumption<br />
and fewer emissions of CO 2 , which accelerates<br />
climate change. However, it is not<br />
realistically foreseeable that cruises as an<br />
industry will come to a complete halt, and<br />
the pandemic-related, financial losses could,<br />
on top of that, condition shipping companies<br />
to invest less money in the future towards the<br />
implementation of truly green and sustainable<br />
cruise shipping. “All cruises to date are<br />
powered by fossil fuels, most of them by<br />
heavy fuel oil, the most toxic and dirty fuel<br />
there is in the world,” says Sönke Diesener,<br />
environmental officer of NABU, Germany’s<br />
environmental association with the largest<br />
membership. For cruise ships to be<br />
climate-neutral and for shipping companies<br />
to achieve the climate targets they have<br />
set themselves, however, investment in<br />
alternative propulsion systems and synthetic<br />
fuels based on renewable electricity<br />
would be imperative.<br />
And there is indeed hope: “The pandemic<br />
is a major challenge. But at least the shipping<br />
companies we have been in contact with have<br />
not put their environmental ambitions on<br />
hold for the time being. That’s good news,”<br />
says Sönke Diesener. As a trained geographer<br />
specializing in the maritime context, he takes<br />
a positive approach to these developments.<br />
By 2040, Diesener says, it is indeed expected<br />
that cruise shipping will be completely<br />
climate neutral – despite or perhaps even<br />
because of the pandemic? “Right now, we<br />
assume that the pandemic period also had a<br />
positive impact on the industry. Quite a few<br />
old, very inefficient, cruise ships were<br />
scrapped. Nearly 40 ships worldwide with the<br />
worst environmental performance were<br />
taken out of service.” They were either sold<br />
or scrapped, and in some cases replaced<br />
with new, more efficient ships – an important<br />
long-term step toward a climateneutral<br />
cruise industry.<br />
Nevertheless, Sönke Diesener responds<br />
with a definite “no” to the question if it is<br />
perfectly sensible to seek one’s “sun and<br />
fun” experience on a cruise ship several<br />
times a year.<br />
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