Anniversary - MyHorse Daily

A Gift To You~
Celebrating Our
20th
Anniversary
20TOP
Trail Rides
www.MyHorse.com/trailrider
ReadeRs like you shaRe theiR favoRite Riding adventuRes

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Pacific Region
19
20 Top Trail Rides
1 Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona .................................................................page 3
2 Bar W Guest Ranch, Whitefish, Montana ............................................................page 4
3 Salt Grass Trail Ride, Houston, Texas ..................................................................page 5
4 Monongahela National Forest, West Virginia .......................................................page 6
5 Merritt British Columbia, Canada .......................................................................page 7
6 AHA Jack Monroe Horseback Beach Ride, Myrtle Beach, South Carolina ..............page 8
7 Coldwater Recreation Area, Florida ....................................................................page 9
8 Nebraska/South Dakota ..................................................................................page 10
9 Cloud Peak Wilderness, Wyoming ....................................................................page 12
10 Outlaw Trail Ride, Thermopolis, Wyoming .........................................................page 14
11 Gunpowder Falls State Park, Maryland .............................................................page 15
12 Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona .................................................page 16
13 Elk Country, Pennsylvania ................................................................................page 18
14 Copper Canyon, Chihuahua, Mexico .................................................................page 20
15 Ironwood Ranch, Hawaii ..................................................................................page 22
16 Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota/Big Horn National Forest, Wyoming .....page 23
17 Horse Heaven Ranch, Oklahoma ......................................................................page 24
18 Shawnee National Forest, Illinois ......................................................................page 25
19 V6 Ride, Parkfield, California ...........................................................................page 26
20 Stehekin, Washington .....................................................................................page 28
Resource Guide .................................................................................page 30
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2
Rocky Mountain
Region
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9 10
Canada
Southwest Region
14
Mexico
16
8
Midwest Region
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The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
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South/Southeast
Region
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Mid-Atlantic/
Northeast
Region
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On the cover: Michelle Schmidtke, DVM, on the Rainbow Loop Trail at the Lake Chelan Overlook in Washington’s Lake Chelan
National Recreation Area. See “Stehekin, Washington,” on page 28. Cover photo by George Schoenfeld.
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Grand Canyon National Park,
Arizona
For years, I wanted to
take the overnight mule
excursion into one of the
world’s most awesome
physical features, the Grand
Canyon.
The day before the ride,
we reported to Bright Angel
Lodge on the canyon’s
South Rim to receive gear
and be weighed. (People
weighing more than 200
pounds are prohibited to
spare the mules from being
overtaxed.) We were
given small plastic bags for
personal items, yellow rain
slickers with the words
“mule rider” emblazoned
on the backs, and canteens. We were directed
to report to the mule corral adjacent to the
lodge no later than 6:30 the next morning.
At the corral, a group of anxious people began
congregating and offering moral support
and suggestions about how to successfully
complete the trip. The consensus was that it
would be advisable not to look down.
The livery manager soon delivered a serious
talk about how strenuous the trip would
be and how there would be seven hours of
hard work ahead. “The mules need to be encouraged
at every step, because they’re not
overly eager to trek the 10 miles down,” he
told us. “After all, they’d been there before.”
The livery manager added that if folks wanted
to change their minds about going down,
their money would be refunded. There were no
dropouts this morning, as all 16 people were
eager to begin. The riders were divided into
two groups of eight riders each, and a wrangler
was assigned to lead each group. Both groups
story and photo By ann nEVILLE
www.MyHorse.com/trailrider
consisted of six women and
two men.
As we began our descent
of the Bright Angel Trail,
we cast out our decision
not to look down. We were
enthralled with the magnificent
views with color hues
ranging from purple to pink.
Some folks were clutching
their saddle horns with
white-knuckled grips. I casually
remarked that if mules
went over the side, it would
be of no benefit to hang onto
the horn. My remark wasn’t
well-received!
But, as our wrangler
pointed out, “The mules
don’t want to fall over the edge, either, and
there has never been a fatality on the mule
trips.” This is extraordinary since they’ve been
in operation for more than 100 years.
Near the canyon bottom, we entered a tunnel,
then crossed a suspension bridge over the Colorado
River. The temperature rose to 100 degrees.
The trail followed the river’s sandy bank before
turning up a side canyon to Phantom Ranch, a
rustic oasis settled deep in the canyon.
The next morning, the huge dining-hall
bell was sounded at 6:30 to summon us to a
hearty breakfast. By 7:30, we were at the corral
to mount up. The trail that day was the South
Kaibab; at seven miles long, it was shorter
than the Bright Angel, but steeper. We completed
the climb out by 12:30 p.m.
In the winter, there’s a mule trip that includes
a two-night stay at Phantom Ranch on
the canyon floor. We echo the thousands who
claim the Grand Canyon mule trip is “the experience
of a lifetime.” TTR

At Bar W Guest Ranch, you can have a true
Montana wilderness experience, yet be close
enough to the resort town of Whitefish to take
advantage of great shopping, fine dining, theater,
and nightlife. Or, you can just sit back at
the ranch and let the Montana experience surround
you. As you explore the ranch, you may
see deer, moose, geese, bears, eagles, coyotes,
and other abundant wildlife.
Located on Spencer Lake, the Bar W offers
riding lessons for all levels of experience. Trail
riders can enjoy the entire million or so acres
where the Bar W holds permits.
The ranch has a stable of trained horses.
The full-week vacation on horseback begins
with the proper matching of each guest to one
of the Bar W’s well-trained ranch horses, followed
by a morning horsemanship clinic.
Riding in the mountains involves paying
Bar W Guest Ranch,
Whitefish, Montana
By tImothy r. KEEfE
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
attention to going up and down in elevation
while keeping an eye open for wildlife and
the next spectacular view of the Rockies just
ahead. Riding the foothills is generally a more
aggressive, faster ride, moving through more
open country, with a trot or a lope thrown in.
Even as winter approaches, riding activities
continue, thanks to the Bar W’s state-of-theart,
heated indoor arena. The ranch’s barn and
arena can stall up to 30 horses.
Bar W Ranch packages include accommodations,
incredible meals, maid service, all
ranch activities and facilities, horse and tack,
guided trail riding, rodeo action, cookouts, use
of boats, hiking in wilderness areas, fishing on
the lake — essentially the run of the property.
The ranch also offers overnight accommodations
with a hearty breakfast for those just
passing through. TTR
Beautiful vistas with mountains and rolling ridges in all directions decorate the countryside of Bar W Guest Ranch,
with 3,000 acres for riding and wilderness activities.

My friend and his wife, Doug and Lynn Calvin,
hadn’t ridden horses since they were kids,
so I told them that if they wanted
to have some fun combined with
a horse adventure, they should
join me and my wife, Carol, for a
week-long Salt Grass Trail Ride
in Houston, Texas.
The Salt Grass Trail Ride was
initiated in 1951 by four individuals
as a means to promote what
was then called the Houston
Fat Stock Show and Rodeo. The
original ride was from Brenham,
Texas, to Houston.
Today, the Salt Grass begins
in Cat Spring, Texas, and travels
90-plus miles to Houston, culminating
with the Houston Livestock
Show and Rodeo Parade,
which formally kicks off the
show and rodeo.
On any given day during the
ride, 900 to 1,400 riders trek
their way to Houston. A small
city of horse rigs and other vehicles,
cook shacks, and Porta-
Potties must be moved each
morning before the riders, their
horses and wagons move out. It’s
an amazing sight.
To my surprise, the Calvins
took us up on the offer and drove
to our home outside Houston to
begin the adventure. They first
had to brush up on trail-riding
basics, not the least of which was
how to saddle and bridle a horse.
At ride’s end, our friends were
exhausted, but recovered rapidly.
Funny, poignant memories still
Salt Grass Trail Ride,
Houston, Texas
By JaCK hoLt
www.MyHorse.com/trailrider
resonate from their first taste of the Salt Grass
Trail. TTR
Cowboy Up
By Lynn Calvin
Houston, Texas, has an event of great tradition.
Old West trail rides with some new additions.
There are pickup trucks and huge motor homes,
Cowboys and cowgirls, on horses, using cell phones.
My hubby and I were invited to “get some kicks,”
Riding the Salt Grass, along with Wagon Six.
A privilege for us, the oldest ride we’d take.
As we are out-of-towners, Wisconsin is our state.
A thousand riders, for a week, a hundred miles they go.
Skinners and their mules have covered wagons that they tow.
The horses crow hop and have a hissy fit;
A red ribbon in a tail means a horse will kick.
Slickers, hat covers, stampede strings for wind and rain,
A galley wagon for our meals, and Porta-Potties hitched like a train.
Our trail boss and his crew were all the best.
The cooks were the greatest, better than all the rest.
The Houston Rodeo Parade awaited us at the end;
We headed for tall buildings with horses and new friends.
With jet planes flying overhead, the crowds would make us smile,
The past and present converged that day, for those last few miles.
And when it came time to part, I even saw some tears.
I hope this tradition will continue through the years.
Then the Old West will live in our hearts and minds,
And we can return to “cowboy up” one more time.

Monongahela National Forest,
West Virginia
Just like the opening
lyric from John Denver’s
song, Country Roads, I
honestly believe the
mountains of the Virginias
can truly be described
as “almost heaven,” especially
when highlighted in
their peak fall splendor.
This year, we decided
to explore a portion of the
nearly one-million-acre
Monongahela National
Forest of West Virginia. I
located a rental cottage near the town of Glady,
situated very close to several mapped trails
within the national forest.
Glady Fork Cabins provided us with an adjacent
acre of fenced pasture for the horses.
On a rainy October morning, we arrived at
Glady Fork. I’d purchased a United States Forest
Service map and contacted several ranger districts,
but with the enormous amount of riding
possibilities open to us, I took this brief opportunity
to chat with cabin owner Gary Ransbottom
about any recommended local trails.
Gary offered to walk with us on the trail
leading down to the river to show us the best
place to make the crossing into the national
forest. We happily accepted, and agreed to
meet him after we unloaded the horses and
settled into our cabin. After a quick lunch, my
dad and I caught two “reluctant horses” enjoying
themselves in the pasture, and rode down
to meet Gary at the water crossing. Unfortunately,
within minutes, the clap of thunder
rolled across the mountaintop, and the rain
returned with a serious intent on soaking us
right down to our boots.
The following morning, we saddled up the
horses and hit the trail early. It was a blustery
story and photo By daVE paup
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
Wayne Paup crossing a creek
on the scenic McCray Trail, off
the Allegheny Trail.
day, but thankfully, the
rain had finally ended and
a much more seasonable
temperature graced the
mountain air.
We crossed the river
and followed the Allegheny
Trail north, paralleling
the shoreline for
several miles before the trail changed course
up a steep grade along the hillside. After leveling
off just long enough to give the horses a
brief respite, the trail then headed back down
toward the river to the turnoff for the eastern
branch of the McCray Trail.
This route then took us up a hollow along
the creek bed, providing scenic views of the
Frazier and McCray Ridge lines above us. The
trail eventually joined a primitive forest road,
allowing us to make another three-mile loop
before returning to McCray Creek.
On our return trip, we rode along the riverbank,
making our crossing at the westward
branch of the McCray Trail, continuing on
until reaching Glady Road. This return route
required us to ride several miles of hard road
— my least favorite venue. But with little traffic
and numerous meadows set beneath the
colorful background of Shavers Mountain, it
was still an enjoyable final leg of our ride.
The entire family agreed this was a wonderful
trip with “stellar accommodations.” One
which we’ll certainly repeat in years to come,
as there are many more miles of trails yet to
explore in the beautiful Monongahela National
Forest of West Virginia. TTR

Merritt, British Columbia,
Canada
Nestled in the heart
of British Columbia’s
Nicola Valley is a cow
town called Merritt, a
community of just under
7,500 people. Merritt’s
downtown is Westernstyle,
reminiscent of the
early 20th century. Visitors
are often charmed
by the down-home, generous
hospitality of this community.
Forestry campsites in the Merritt area accommodate
the horsemen and their steeds. One
of my favorite rides is at the Lundbom Lake
Grasslands forestry site, located only minutes
from downtown Merritt. It’s situated in rolling
hills and is surrounded by small fishing lakes.
The campsites are well set up for horsemen.
The corrals were built by Back Country Horsemen
of British Columbia. There are picnic
tables and fire pits at every site, with beautiful
lake views. There’s a camp host there from May
though September. The cost is $10 per night;
maximum stay is 14 days.
The surrounding trails, built and maintained
by local mountain-bike riders, range
from easy to difficult. They’re well-marked, and
it’s easy to find your way back to camp. (Note:
Make sure your horse is used to cows, which
run loose in the area.)
One of my favorite trails is the Déjà Vu Trail.
You ride past a lake, then you ride past another
lake that looks just like the first one. It feels
like déjà vu. Another good ride is the Cocobonk
Trail; just off the trail is a viewpoint overlooking
Nicola Valley and Nicola Lake.
Minutes from Lundbom are the Kane Valley
cross-country trails. This area offers many
trails and loops. There are no corrals, but you
can highline your horse or use a portable cor-
story and photo By KELLy aLLEn
www.MyHorse.com/trailrider
Writer Kelly Allen on the Lundbom
Lake Grasslands forestry site.
ral. Like Lundbom, there’s a
camp host who’ll collect $10
per night.
Every year, a group of
horsemen from all over
British Columbia gather
together to celebrate Canadian
Thanksgiving. Most are
members of Back Country Horsemen of B.C.,
but all are welcome. We have community potluck
Thanksgiving Dinner that would make
most five-star hotel buffets look wimpy.
The menu includes a whole prime rib full
rack, wild Pacific salmon, salads, and desserts.
I make my famous double-creamed pumpkin
cheesecake.
We meet in a large meadow in an area
called Rainbow Trails, just outside of Merritt,
off the Coldwater Rd. turnoff. The trails are
named after an endurance ride held there every
July called “Over the Rainbow,” in which
all the trails are marked with colored ribbon.
The trails are very well-marked and can range
from easy to difficult. They go as high as 5,000
to 6,000 feet above sea level. Colored horseshoes
or plastic ribbons indicate length of each trail.
White and blue loops offer a few hours of riding.
Orange loops offer all-day riding.
You can ride to alpine meadows where
cattle graze, to Lilly Lake, or through birch
forests. Area wildlife includes deer, elk, black
bear, and even herds of wild horses.
No trip to Merritt is complete without a
visit to Nicola Ranch, founded in 1919. It was
once the center of the area’s ranching community;
today it’s still a working ranch, and
offers accommodations and ranch experiences
to visitors. TTR

AHA Jack Monroe Horseback Beach
Ride, Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
The thrill of riding a
horse through whitecaps
and across hard-packed
sandy ocean front was
threatened to the brink
of extinction. It was a
full 25 years ago that
horseback-riding enthusiasts
took a stand in
South Carolina.
The first structured
defenders of beach riding
were members of various
equine organizations
and local riding clubs.
Aware of the precious
luxury of oceanfront
land, they organized
around a civic leader and
fellow horse enthusiast,
Jack Monroe, Senior.
According to many accounts,
it was his notion
to begin a formal
horseback ride along the
beaches of South Carolina,
to add a degree of
credibility to the use of
local beaches by riders.
The equestrians
gained a reputation for
treating Myrtle Beach’s
oceanfront respectfully, with genuine concern
for the environment. In time, this event
became a greatly-anticipated annual experience.
Through the past 25 years, the affair has
grown steadily and has distinguished itself as
the largest organized ride in South Carolina.
Not only has the annual AHA Jack Monroe
Horseback Beach Ride encouraged thousands
of people to enjoy the once-in-a-lifetime feeling
story and photo By donna harrIson
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
If you’ve ever dreamed of
riding along a stretch of
sandy beach, the annual Jack
Monroe Horseback Beach
Ride in Myrtle Beach, South
Carolina, is a “must do” this
October.
of cantering through the
surf with their horses, it
has become a significant
fundraiser for the American
Heart Association.
For many years, the
Lakewood Camping Resort
has accommodated
ride participants. The
oceanfront/lakefront
campground provides
complete services in
a family-oriented atmosphere.
Large, pullthrough
campsites offer
full hookups and tropical
palm tree shade.
A five-mile stretch
of beach and surf riding
is permitted as often as
desired daily while the
actual organized ride
is held on the fourth
scheduled day. This is a
10-mile beach ride to the main pavilion area
of the city.
Ride organizers provide water, apples, and
carrots for the horses, while riders and wagon
drivers are provided with lunch. The 10-mile
return trip makes for a memorable ride as you
share the scenery with dolphins and sea birds.
The 2009 ride will take place October 28-
November 1. TTR

Coldwater Recreation Area,
Florida
story and photo By donna harrIson
Coldwater Recreation Area
is located north of Pensacola
in the western part of the
Florida Panhandle. While summer
temperatures may push
the mercury too high for truly
comfortable riding, spring, fall,
and winter riding seems ideal.
We chose a mid-April visit
and feel the timing couldn’t
have been better. With daytime
highs in the low 80s and evening
temperatures around 65,
we enjoyed balmy daylight skies
and perfect fireside evenings.
Managed by the Florida Division
of Forestry and manned
in large part by friendly, horse-loving volunteers,
this camp is clean, orderly, safe, and attractively
kept. It’s also well laid out. Equine
accommodations include barn stalls; large,
covered paneled stalls; and open paneled stalls.
There are free shavings, plus wheelbarrows
and forks. Water hoses are easily accessible.
Another nice feature is the one-acre-plus paddock
provided free for a 30-minute turnout
per horse. After a long ride, what a treat for
our mares to roll, graze, and just relax in the
shade of trees before being confined. A 50-foot
round pen and several concrete wash racks
complete the horse facilities.
The trailer sites are just as pleasant and
easily accessible via a paved loop that runs
through the camp. Coldwater is situated
alongside a minor vein of the Blackwater River.
Several campsites are located adjacent to this
quiet, clear creek, and offer access to a small,
sandy beach.
Many sites are tree covered, providing
cool shade. Water and electrical hookups are
provided, although primitive camping is also
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The scenery is varied at Coldwater
Recreation Area. Huge
stands of long-needle pine are
particularly stunning.
available. A dump station is
located at the exit drive, and
day parking is available. Horses
aren’t allowed in the trailer
campsites, so the sites remain
debris free.
Coldwater Recreation Area
advertises 69 miles of trails.
These, coupled with USFS
roads, provided more than
enough riding to keep us and
the horses busy.
For the most part, these trails are flat and
easily ridden. They’re well-marked, although efforts
are underway to rework the guiding colors.
While maps are provided at the USFS office, we
found that after riding the perimeter trail, we
could easily negotiate the interior trails.
Several trails are crossed by clean, shallow,
streams. Our horses had ample access to water
during the rides. Some of the largest, oldest
stands of long-needle pine around are found
here. We crossed huge forested areas, riding
on large, open tracts and weaving through
thicker, shaded woodlands.
Carnivorous pitcher plants were a uncommon
sight, and we enjoyed trying to identify
various wildlife. Spotting only a couple of
black snakes, we kept our eyes open for other,
more-threatening types, including rattlers and
coral snakes, of which we were warned.
Pleasant and affordable, Coldwater Recreation
Area gets a “Happy Hoof” from us. Give this
great place a call as you plan your next southern
outing. You’ll be glad you did! TTR

Nebraska/
South Dakota
story By suzan fItzsImmons ~ photos By KatE LEhnEr
Dedicated readers of The Trail Rider, our
group of friends (the Steel Magnolias) never
runs out of ideas on where to ride. Last year’s
choice was Fort Robinson State Park in the
northwestern corner of Nebraska. A closer
study of the map revealed its close proximity
to both Custer State Park and Mount Rushmore
National Memorial in the southwestern
corner of South Dakota. So the plan was made.
June was chosen in hopes of avoiding
the summer heat. Trails were measured and
mapped, lists of equipment and supplies typed,
printed, and distributed. Past issues of The
Trail Rider provided good lists of daily supplies
and emergency equipment to be packed. There
was also a good article on trailer safety that I
memorized before the trip.
Riders and horses — including a Morgan,
a mule, an Arabian, a Missouri Fox Trotter, a
Paint Horse, and assorted Quarter Horses,
ages 4 to 21 — began conditioning in Febru-
0 The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
ary. There was no way to duplicate the altitude
we would experience, but our leisurely drive
and two-day layover in Nebraska seemed to be
enough time to acclimate before we reached
the higher altitudes.
While on the road, we used walkie-talkies to
keep in touch with other vehicles in our caravan.
This arrangement was practical and fun.
We spent the first night of our 620-mile journey
at the fairgrounds in Ogallala, Nebraska. Jeanie
Borgraden met us and showed us the horse accommodations:
small indoor stalls and rodeo
pens, with plenty of room, plus water nearby.
We were able to lock the area for the night.
Ladies spent the night in the local hotel.
By the next afternoon, we pulled into
beautiful, historic Fort Robinson, Nebraska,
elevation 3,380 feet. What a welcoming sight!
Well-kept grounds and beautifully restored
military buildings greeted us. There’s a museum
at the fort well worth a visit. Nearby Craw-
Mount Rushmore and the Steel Magnolias. “There are good-sized hitching posts across the road under the pines
where the horses had a good rest before starting back to camp,” says writer Suzan Fitzsimmons.

ford is home to The Ranch House Restaurant
that serves very good drinks and meals.
The Fort Robinson stables were clean and
beautiful. We had reserved stalls for our group
and were asked to clean our own, just like
home! The restored brick floors and interiors
were quite comfortable, and water spigots
were centrally located.
Our first ride at Fort Robinson was made
much more interesting by a group of riders familiar
with the area who graciously invited us
to ride with them. They shared local history and
pointed out the “ladies club” the officers kept.
The terrain was moderately steep, a little
rocky, and very open with sensational vistas,
due to past forest fires.
The next morning, we again rode along the
bluff overlooking the fort, then packed and
drove on toward South Dakota. We felt honored
to see Native American riders along the
highway, an annual ride in memory of Chief
Crazy Horse, who was killed at Fort Robinson.
Heading to our next stop — Mount Rushmore
KOA campground and the Palmer Gulch
Lodge, we drove through Custer State Park,
where buffalo grazed along the road’s edge.
Palmer Gulch is nestled in the pines near the
Peter Norbeck Wildlife Preserve on Highway
244, between Hill City and Mount Rushmore.
Our first ride started at a trailhead from the
campground leading to Harney Peak, elevation
7,242 feet, the highest point between the East
Coast and the Rocky Mountains. This was a
tough ride, steep and rocky. Horses would nor-
www.MyHorse.com/trailrider
The last ride at Deerfield
Lake, South Dakota. “We
circled the lake on trails
leading through pine
forests and were excited
to see a cougar before
she ambled over the hills,”
says Fitzsimmons.
mally be shod for this ride. My horse, Clue, wore
Old Mac boots on his front feet, which worked
out very well. The other horses slipped some on
the rocks. The breathtaking views of the surrounding
forests and hills were incredible.
The second day, we rode from our campground
to Mount Rushmore! I can’t begin to
describe the thrill of rounding a mountain
trail and having those magnificent sculptures
pop into view. This ride was long, challenging,
and absolutely worth all the hours spent conditioning
my horses. We left our horses tied
to sturdy hitching rails in the shade with our
guides, while we took lots of photographs.
The next day, we trailered to nearby Custer
State Park to ride French Creek. What a
beautiful spot — a valley with a crisp, rockybottomed
creek running through it and an
abundance of flora and fauna. We thoroughly
enjoyed crossing French Creek 32 times.
This was our third and last day with our
guides, Dave and Harold, both retired local
gentlemen who spend many of their days trail
riding. They saved us valuable time by knowing
the roads and trails. After three days of
riding with our group, the Steel Magnolias,
I think they were ready to retire again!
Our last ride was at Deerfield Lake. We
were threatened by stormy weather, but enjoyed
the beautiful lake just the same. The
trails were very well-marked and groomed.
This was a fabulous, once-in-a-lifetime ride.
I recommend it unconditionally. We were exhausted
and happy all the way home. TTR

Cloud Peak Wilderness,
Wyoming
It was an intensely hot July afternoon, the
temperature topping 105 degrees, when we
arrived at the Aldinger homestead situated
just outside the town of Worland, Wyoming.
Our hosts, Bobby and Sue, had graciously welcomed
their former Pennsylvania neighbors
into their home.
After a brief barnyard introduction following
breakfast the next morning, we saddled
up our chosen horses and took them out for a
short ride in the surrounding high desert.
We passed a herd of free-grazing sheep,
careful to avoid provoking an attack by the
large llama intent on guarding her flock.
Climbing to the top of a bald, sandstone knoll,
we stopped to view the surrounding countryside
before turning back for the corral, anxious
to make our final preparations for the
high country.
I packed my gear into my saddlebags, filled
with anticipation for the
long-awaited trip into
the Cloud Peak Wilderness.
I knew nothing of
the grandeur awaiting
us, only the area’s topography
plainly displayed
as black-and-white lines
on my GPS’ tiny screen.
At dawn, we loaded
up two horses and two
mules into the trailer
and headed east out of
Worland. Our destination
within the Big Horn
Writer Dave Paup was filled
with anticipation before
setting out on the first ride
into Cloud Peak Wilderness.
story and photos By daVE paup
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
National Forest was about 50 miles away, close
to the small town of Tensleep. We found this
location convenient since the trailer had very
small sleeping quarters.
George Zeigler, Marvin Spahr, and I had
reserved a room at a bunkhouse in town, and
our host, Bobby, agreed to stay up on the
mountain with the horses. I know it doesn’t
sound much like “the cowboy way,” but on
this occasion, we decided not to transport
from home all the gear needed for a pack trip.
Arriving at the trailhead, I completed the
backcountry permit tag, a requirement for
anyone entering the wilderness area, and we
saddled up the horses and hit the trail.
We chose a destination we believed was
achievable for our first trek into the mountains,
given the high elevation and conditioning
level of our horses and ourselves. The Lost
Twin Lakes are located just above 10,000 feet

in elevation; the trail
up to them following
Middle Creek is about
six miles long.
From the trailhead
at West Tensleep Lake,
we rode up through
the pines and into the
open grassland along
the creek basin. We’d
hoped to spot mule
deer or moose grazing
in these meadows,
but the late-morning
hour was obviously past
prime viewing time for
wildlife.
As the trail cut back along the creek, we
spotted a waterfall and stopped for some
pictures. From here, the trail crossed into
the wilderness area, and began to climb up
through more pine forest toward Mirror Lake.
Upon reaching this small lake, we tied our
horses for a brief rest and scrambled down the
rocks to the lakeshore to stretch our legs.
As we continued up the mountain, the trail
became very narrow, with a steep drop off to
the creek bed below. We had to carefully cross
over several areas of bare rock face, the horses
treading attentively to keep their footing.
As I checked the GPS coordinates, it appeared
that we should be within a stone’s
throw of the lakes, but the trail suddenly ended,
and they were nowhere in sight. Securing
our horses to shrubs, we scaled the rock pile
before us hoping to see two pools of water hiding
on the opposite side.
Upon cresting this mound, our efforts were
rewarded: The Lost Twin Lakes had once again
been found. I took in the view, mindful that
our horses might decide to head back on their
own. We scurried down, grabbed the reins,
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Bobby, the trail host,
and George Ziegler
cross West Tensleep
Creek. “From the trailhead
at West Tensleep
Lake, we rode up
through the pines and
into the open grassland
along the creek basin,”
writes Paup.
and started home for
base camp.
On our second
morning out, we set
our goal a bit higher.
Marvin and I would
ride to the base of
Bomber Mountain,
resting site of a B-17
bomber that crashed
en route to England in June 1943.
Heading up the trail, it was soon obvious
that this route would be far less challenging
than the previous day’s ride, and the scenery
exceeded my wildest expectations. As we traveled
up above the West Tensleep Creek basin,
we enjoyed the spectacular views of the alpinelike
mountains rising around us, and the scenic
vistas of the valley below.
As incredible as the surrounding landscape
had appeared until now, when we arrived at
Lake Helen we’d truly found nature’s masterpiece.
The crystal-clear water was surrounded
by green pines mixed with deadwood, all set
beneath a backdrop of craggy mountain peaks.
We passed Lake Marion, then Mistymoon,
finally reaching the Fortress Lakes beneath
Bomber Mountain by early afternoon. Achieving
our objective at nearly 11,000 feet, we
enjoyed the wildflowers scattered among the
glacial boulders above the tree line, then began
our return descent down the trail.
This was one of most beautiful places
we’ve ever ridden, and I’d recommend it to
everyone. TTR

Outlaw Trail Ride, Thermopolis,
Wyoming
For some, the Outlaw Trail Ride is a weeklong
vacation of a lifetime, riding the outlaw
trails of Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid, and
the Wild Bunch.
The 100-mile trek crosses the southern
slopes of the spectacular Big Horn Mountains.
Riders experience the diversity of Wyoming’s
backcountry — sagebrush-covered rolling
hills, rocky canyons, elk trails, and wooded
mountains. First-timers quickly learn that this
isn’t a ride for the novice rider or unfit horse.
The terrain can be rugged and challenging,
with long hours in the saddle.
Everyone is ready to kick back and relax
when they get into camp each night. And
relax they can, as they’re treated to delicious
catered meals and campfire entertainment,
including cowboy poetry, history, music, and
historical-character impersonators.
A live band provides dancing music during
the Wednesday-night gala, held far from
civilization, under the canopy of the moon
and millions of stars in the Wyoming sky.
First-timers
quickly learn
that this isn’t
a ride for the
novice rider
or unfit horse.
The terrain
can be rugged
and challenging,
with long
hours in the
saddle.
story and photo By sandy CLousE
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
After four long days of riding and a night of
dancing, both horses and riders welcome a day
of relaxation. Last year, folks were occupied
with horsemanship clinics, an equine massage
demonstration, horseshoes, a poker run, visiting,
resting, and swimming in the pond.
Ride proceeds (more than $35,000 since
the first ride) have been donated to select organizations
and individuals. The money has
been used to erect a historical monument at
The Hole-in-the-Wall Hideout, for educational
scholarships, and to support local youth programs,
area museums, and more.
The 2009 Outlaw Trail Ride will be
held August 2 to 8. The ride fee is $1,550.
The fee includes horse pens at the Hot
Springs County Fairgrounds before and
after the ride, an orientation dinner, Sunday
breakfast in Thermopolis before leaving for
the trailhead, ride organization, transportation
from Thermopolis, on-trail meals, hay
and grain for horses, campfire entertainment,
and more. TTR

Gunpowder Falls State Park,
Maryland
Gunpowder Falls State
Park in Hereford, Maryland,
is within an hour’s drive
of South Central Pennsylvania.
This beautiful park
contains about 20 miles of
trails that traverse the area,
and parallel both the north
and south sides of the Gunpowder
Falls River. The
parking area is located off
of Exit 27 on I-83. I would
highly recommend parking
at the pull off area, where
you can easily access the
trailheads for either the
Mingo Forks or Bunker Hill trails.
Before heading to Gunpowder, purchase a
detailed trail guide from the Maryland Department
of Natural Resources. The guide will
help you to navigate the 3,620-acre park, and
all trails are marked with a blaze that corresponds
to the color code on the map.
I’d rate many of the trails of the Hereford
Area to be of moderate difficulty, and not wellsuited
for beginners. There are numerous
small stream crossings, and the water level
can sometimes reach stirrup height.
A ride on the Gunpowder North Trail that
follows the river is one of my personal favorites.
Even on a warm summer day, the cool
water seems to chill the surrounding hillsides,
filled with river birch, oaks, hemlocks, and
mountain laurel.
Rock outcroppings add to the backdrop,
and give the area a feeling of seclusion. If
you’re lucky, you may even spot a beaver. If
you take the Gunpowder South Trail from the
bridge at Masemore Road, you’ll encounter
some tricky spots along the river where the
trail narrows with a steep drop-off.
story and photo By daVE paup
www.MyHorse.com/trailrider
Writer Dave Paup and his
Paint Horse, Gracie, cool off
while riding the trails of Sweet
Air in Gunpowder State Park,
Maryland. Paup reports that
the park’s trails are “filled with
river birch, oaks, hemlocks, and
mountain laurel.”
If you prefer a much less challenging trail
ride, the Gunpowder Falls Sweet Air Area is
also an excellent choice. This section of the
park watershed system is a bit farther south,
in Harford County.
In late summer, my wife, Janell, and I
rode out of the Sweet Air parking area on the
Boundary Trail, which runs southwest for
about a mile before reaching the river. This
trail passed through some open cornfields bordering
the north side of the park.
Upon reaching Gunpowder Falls, we headed
south following the Little Gunpowder Trail
for about a mile and a half, before fording the
river. About a mile after crossing the river, we
picked up a connecting trail taking us in the
direction of Green Glade Pond.
We continued on the Boundary Trail taking
us back toward the river, heading north
along the opposite shore. Much to our disappointment,
however, the trails at Sweet Air
did not offer the dramatic aquatic backdrop
you’ll find at Hereford. However, the trails
are well-marked and maintained, and will
provide you with many hours of scenic woodland
travel. TTR

Canyon de Chelly National Monument,
Arizona
story and photos By ChrIstInE duVaL-sEnty
Canyon de Chelly (pronounced
d’SHAY) National
Monument is located in
the heart of the Navajo Indian
reservation in Northeast
Arizona, near Chinle.
The monument is really
made up of three canyons:
Canyon de Chelly, Canyon
del Muerto, and Monument
Canyon.
At the canyon mouth,
the rock walls are only
30 feet high. Deeper into
the canyon, the walls rise
dramatically, until they
tower more than 1,000
feet above the floor. Elevation
ranges from 5,500
feet at the visitor center to just over 7,000 feet
at the last overlook. The best time of the year to
ride is spring and late fall. In the summer, temperatures
can climb to the triple digits; in the
winter, the canyon does get snow.
Canyon de Chelly’s physical nature has always
had a profound effect on the people who
lived there. The canyon has harbored some of
the most fascinating and complex Indian cultures
in America.
In 1931, Canyon de Chelly National Monument
was established to preserve archeological
ruins within the canyon walls and their important
record in human history. Embracing
84,000 acres within the Navajo Indian Reservation
and comprised entirely of Navajo Tribal
Trust Land, the monument is administered by
the National Park Service in partnership with
the Navajo Nation.
All except one in our party brought our
own horses. (The monument rents horses to
those who don’t have their own.) Canyon de
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
“At the canyon mouth,
the rock walls are
only 30 feet high,”
writes Christine Duval
Sentry. “Deeper into the
canyon, the walls rise
dramatically.”
Chelly has strict health
requirements for horses
and mules. All documents
must be submitted to the
National Park Service a
minimum of two weeks
prior to arrival.
Some in our party
camped in the Coolidge-
Martin Campground,
while others stayed in the Thunderbird Lodge
close to the Visitor’s Center and across the
street from the campground. I admit I stayed
in the lodge, where I thoroughly enjoyed a hot
shower every night and ate a hearty breakfast
every morning.
To enter the monument, you must be accompanied
by an authorized Navajo guide. The
park requires one guide per 10 riders. James Jr.
and Perry Yazzie, who are brothers, were our
official guides for several days of canyon exploration.
Here’s my account of our journey.
Day One: We rode out from camp into
the canyon mouth. As we rode deeper into the
canyon, the sheer cliffs got higher and higher.
We rode primarily along a wash, sloshing
through water.
Along the way, we stopped at significant archeological
sites, and gathered round to hear
stories about Navajo culture and Anasazi history
from our Navajo guides. We examined pictographs,
petroglyphs, and ruins. Our final destina-

“Along the way, we stopped at significant archeological sites, and gathered round to hear stories about Navajo
culture,” reports Duval-Sentry.
tion was Standing Cow Ruins where the Navajo
etched drawings into the canyon walls depicting
the Spaniards’ arrival in the late 1700s.
Day Two: We decided to take a shorter ride;
as it turned out, it was shorter by just six miles.
One visible, striking geologic phenomenon
within Canyon de Chelly is the “desert varnish,”
the long, uneven streamers that stain
the vertical walls at almost every turn and
view. These dark lines look like wet streaks left
by a recent rainstorm, but are actually chemical
deposits that have taken several thousand
years to accumulate.
Our destination this day was White House
ruins, the second largest Anasazi ruins in the
canyon. Occupied about 1,000 years ago, it’s
the only place in the canyon that visitors can
see without a guide — after hiking down from
the rim about 500 feet.
Day Three: We trailered to a spot on the
canyon rim and snaked our way down Bat
Canyon — a side canyon of Canyon de Chelly.
What a ride! The canyon walls towered over
1,000 feet, and we experienced very different
vegetation and countryside. The washes and
sand floor were replaced by Douglas firs and
rocky, steep trails.
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The main attraction was Spider Rock, an
800-foot spire that rises from the canyon floor
at the junction of Canyon de Chelly and Monument
Canyon.
Day Four: We trailered to the opposite
rim and slowly made our way down a side
canyon. The trail was tremendously beautiful
and definitely not for beginners. It consisted of
narrow, steep switchbacks over slick rock with
sheer drop-offs on one side.
In fact, it was so steep that after traveling
about 20 yards, the trail behind us seemed to
disappear. We couldn’t see the switchbacks in
front or behind us.
Our final destination was Mummy Cave,
the largest Anasazi ruins site. In the early
1900s, archeologists discovered three mummies
in this cave and confirmed the Anasazi
people were only about three feet tall.
In all, we rode nearly 65 miles in four days.
The mysterious canyon was powerful and
beautiful. The riding was varied and presented
an interesting challenge at times for even our
most experienced horse-and-rider teams. What
began as a trail-riding adventure with friends
and family became a spiritual journey through
a mystical land. TTR

Each autumn, as shorter days and cooler
temperatures approach, a familiar sound begins
to echo across the fields and forests in Elk
Country, Pennsylvania, near the small township
of Benezette. It is, of course, the bugle of the
bull elk. A call of the wild from Penn’s Woods
that everyone should have the opportunity to
experience, while seated around the fire ring at
horse camp after a long day in the saddle.
The herd today now numbers near 600,
with their primary range comprising about
225 square miles of Cameron and Elk Counties.
The “elk ride” into Pennsylvania’s big
north woods is enjoyed by both horse and
rider.
During my first few years of travel to Benezette,
I was fortunate to be able to tag along
with friends who knew the area well, and
stayed at private camping sites owned by Elk
Elk Country,
Pennsylvania
story and photos By daVE paup
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
Foundation volunteer Don “Woody” Wood.
Woody also has two organized trail rides each
year (June and September). These three-day
rides are great opportunities to experience and
learn a portion of the trail system available in
the Benezette area.
Horses are also welcome at The Big Elk
Lick, a private campground located just outside
of town along PA Route 555. There’s also
an outstanding horse trail located in the Elk
State Forest, just north of Benezette. The
Thunder Mountain Equestrian Trail is a 26mile
double loop, with trailhead access along
the East Branch of the Hicks Run Rd., approximately
3.75 miles north of PA Route 555.
The trailhead parking area is a day-use facility
only, but you can obtain a free camping
permit from the district office for two sites
located along Bell Draft Rd. Both sites provide
connecting trails to
Thunder Mountain.
Bring water for your
horses, as these are
primitive sites. I’d recommend
staying at the
north site (west of Bell
Draft), which is far less
exposed and provides
much more shade for
“Numerous food plots
along Game Land trails
increase the opportunity
to view elk, as well
as other wildlife, such
as whitetail deer, wild
turkey, and black bear,”
writes Dave Paup.

your horses and rig
than other areas.
We made our elkcountry
base camp
in the quiet little
town of Dent’s Run,
just seven miles east
of Benezette.
With the designation
of trails for
horseback riding on
State Game Lands
in 2003, there are now approximately 20 miles
of marked trails available on Game Land No.
311, which adjoins the state forest just north
of Benezette. You can access these trails from
a parking area at the Winslow Hill viewing
area, as well as a connecting trail from Thunder
Mountain.
These trails are closed from the last Saturday
in September to the third Saturday in January,
and from the second Saturday in April to
the last Saturday in May (except on Sundays).
All routes are clearly posted by green-triangle
markers with illustrations of a mountain bike
and horseback rider.
The opening of the Game Land trails allows
riders to access an additional portion of
the elk’s primary range. These trails consist
of dirt roads and narrow paths, through natural
forest and reclaimed strip mine planted
in evergreens. There are several challenging
trails with steep drop-offs along the mine
spoil banks, which offer great views of the surrounding
landscape.
Numerous food plots along these trails
also increase the opportunity to view elk, as
well as other wildlife, such as whitetail deer,
wild turkey, and black bear. We’ve also had
several close encounters with our state bird,
the Ruffed Grouse, thundering out from the
grassy trail.
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“Each autumn, as shorter
days and cooler temperatures
approach, a
familiar sound begins
to echo across the
fields and forests in Elk
Country, Pennsylvania,”
writes Dave Paup. “It
is, of course, the bugle
from a bull elk.”
To save valuable daylight hours, we made
the drive to Dent’s Run, arriving at camp after
dusk the evening before our scheduled ride, and
headed straight for the parking area at Winslow
Hill at daybreak the following morning.
We unloaded the horses, grabbed the saddles
and gear, and hit the trail. It was an unseasonably
cold September morning, and my fingers
tingled as I held the reins. This minor discomfort
would soon be forgotten, as I noticed the
perk in my horse’s ears as she listened to something
in the distance. It was obvious that the
ride on this day was about to get much more
interesting.
Directing our horses towards the sound of
bugling elk, we located the first dominant bull,
keeping a watchful eye on his group of cows.
We spent the entire morning following area
trails, careful not to spook the elk, a practice
that everyone should follow while enjoying
this incredible spectacle of nature. By day’s
end, we’d spot nearly a dozen bulls, large and
small, watching several as they sparred with
one another over the cows.
Pennsylvania’s magnificent elk country is
a tremendous resource, providing those who
live and ride in the eastern mountain region
just a small taste of this annual display of
nature that our Rocky Mountain friends find
commonplace. TTR

Riding the Copper
Canyon may not be
for everyone, but for
those who seek an ultimate
adventure, the
ride is well worth the
risk. Terry and Randy
Palmer, owners and
operators of Over the
Hill Outfitters of Durango,
Colorado, offer
a unique riding experience
in November in
conjunction with Doug
“Diego” Rhodes, the
caballero of the Copper
Canyon out of
Rancho del Oso, Chihuahua,
Mexico.
The Copper Canyon
lies in northwest Mexico in the state of
Chihuahua. We were to explore two of the six
massive gorges: the Urique, 6,165 feet deep,
and the Batopilas, 5,905 feet deep. By comparison,
the Grand Canyon is approximately 5,000
feet deep. The six gorges cover 25,000 square
miles. Elevations range from 9,500 feet to
1,300 feet above sea level.
The group consisted of Randy Palmer, outfitter;
Diego, our knowledgeable guide; his
son, Hugo, who served as wrangler and packer;
Ryan Hawkins, a seasonal employee and construction
engineer; Dave Nelson, an electrical
engineer employed at Los Alamos National
Laboratory and a lifelong friend of Diego; Fred
Whitehurst, an ophthalmologist, and myself, a
retired attorney.
Being a native of Southwest Colorado and
having ridden since age 5, I thought that the
rugged San Juan Mountains would have prepared
me for any type of terrain an equine
Copper Canyon,
Chihuahua, Mexico
story and photos By JIm anEsI
0 The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
Before embarking
on his ride, writer
Jim Anesi stayed at
Hotel Paraiso del Oso,
named for Yogi Bear
Rock (shown).
could handle. My
opinion was about to
change. While I have
ridden on as steep
trails and as rocky, I
didn’t expect to remain
vertical for hours on
end going straight up
and down. The Tarahumara
Trail System follows
ridges and has very few switchbacks. The
natives prefer to walk or run rather than ride.
The first day, our ride took us into the Sierra
Madre Occidental following the famous
Camino Real Trail System. We passed quaint
Tarahumara ranchitos, climbed 1,500 feet to
the pinnacle of The Arroyo Hondo, and began
a 3,500-foot descent into the isolated village of
Naranjo.
A seven-hour ride that day brought us to
the welcome sight of the ranchito where Diego
had arranged for us to spend the night. Diego
had purchased some rainbow trout and cooked
it over open fire wrapped in tin foil with our
hosts preparing a local rice and squash dish
along with fresh grapefruit margaritas mixed
with Fresca. We spread out bedrolls under the
grapefruit trees to gaze up into the constellations.
All in all, it was a great day.
The next day, a five-hour descent brought
us to the small pueblo of Urique where a mod

est hotel and a hot
shower was a much-anticipated
reward for a
day’s travel.
It was Thanksgiving
Day, and I’d hoped
our bill of fare would
be enchiladas, but to
our surprise, Diego and
Ana had prepared for
the first time a rolled
turkey roast with potatoes
and gravy, dressing,
cranberries, and
pumpkin pie.
Diego had decided
that because our group
was small and he was comfortable with our
riding skills, he would offer a more rugged
and picturesque route than their normal one;
he warned that he hadn’t been on the trail for
more than four years. After some discussion
we opted for the route.
Diego has extensive knowledge of the numerous
trail systems. One sees many trails
traversing the mountainsides but appearing to
lead nowhere. The terrain is steep and dense
with pines and live oak, as well as numerous
native plants. It’d be next to impossible to attempt
the trip without a knowledgeable guide
and surefooted animals.
Days 3 and 4 of our ride consisted of five
hours in the saddle each day over steep, narrow
trails where vertical ascents and descents
were the norm. Walking from time to time
gave our legs a break and rested the animals.
Nothing prepared us for the nine-hour marathon
of the last day of our ride.
The Fox Trotters and mules I use for my
sojourns in the San Juan Mountains could’ve
handled the terrain but would’ve surely
starved. Grazing isn’t available in these steep
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“Riding the Copper Canyon
may not be for everyone,
but for those who seek an
ultimate adventure, it was
well worth the risk,” writes
Jim Anesi.
hills and what little
does exist is consumed
by the domesticated
goats, isolated milk
cow, and wandering
burros. Diego had
packed alfalfa pellets
and local corn for feed.
We had only two
pack mules. One primarily
carried our duffel
and food, the other
carried grain. The tough, sturdy Mexican
mounts with very little provisions packed us
five hours up the 4,000-foot ascent and then
the 3,500-foot descent to the final destination
of Batopilas.
Riding on razor-thin ridges with a panoramic
view of the magnificent canyon gorges
was breathtaking. When we finally reached
the summit on our last day, a sigh of relief was
sounded by the group. But it was short-lived.
Upon viewing the descent and being aware
that there was little daylight left, we tried
to pick up the pace. Because of the steep inclines
and ledges, riding wasn’t practical, so
we walked three of the four remaining hours.
Again, as luck would have it, we arrived in Batopilas
as the last ray of sunlight left the gorge.
After unsaddling the horses and giving them
well-deserved feed, we headed for the cantina
for margaritas and exquisite Mexican cuisine.
If you dream of a unique adventure riding
in Mexico’s canyons, this trip should top your
list. Go with a spirit of adventure, and be ready
for great riding memories that will last a lifetime.
TTR

Ironwood Ranch,
Hawaii
story and photo By KathErInE ChansKy
Trail riding in Hawaii on the
island of Maui is about getting
off the beach and away from
golf courses, crowds, and highways.
It’s the sight of vast ocean
views from high mountainside
fields; it’s walking the horses
on red clay roads through pineapple
plantations; it’s the quiet
and peace you look for in a getaway-from-it-all
vacation.
I spent the first days in Maui
on the beach, but the horse
lover in me wanted to ride. I called Ironwood
Ranch, the closest stable to the resort area of
Kaanapali, where I’d been staying. The brochure
promised, “Maui’s best horseback riding.”
Gina, the ranch manager, described the
choice of rides: a sunset ride, a leisurely ride
into Ironwood forests, or a faster, guided tour
for the experienced rider. I chose the walk
through the forest. I’m an experienced rider,
but I wanted to enjoy the entire vacation without
any risk of trouble on the trail.
When the other guests and I arrived at the
ranch, Gina called us over to the stable. She
took a minute to size us up and began to assign
horses to each rider.
“At Ironwood Ranch, our guests are given
the names of the horses,” she said. “It’s safer
for us to direct you and the horse this way.”
A retired schoolteacher and his wife were
assigned Brad Pitt, a fit, bay Quarter Horse,
and Queen Latifah. I was given a trim, gray
Arabian Horse cross.
Kate, our guide, rode a Paint Horse named
Orlando Bloom. Kate and Orlando led us in
single file past the shady paddocks into the
bright sunlight of the pineapple fields.
Pineapples and sugar cane are becoming a
rare sight on Maui, as land is sold to developers
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
Kate and Orlando Bloom take in
the Maui scenery. “The view from
the fields of the ocean below and
the distant, hazy brown cliffs of
Lana’i Island are panoramic and
beautiful,” says writer Katherine
Chansky.
for resorts. The view from
these fields of the ocean
below and the distant, hazy
brown cliffs of Lana’i Island
are panoramic and beautiful.
The surefooted horses carefully took us into
the shady green of a tropical forest. We passed
wild coffee plants, pepper trees with bright-red
berries, oranges out of reach in the trees, and
lilies that border the trail on the forest floor.
At the lowest point on the trail, our horses
splashed through a muddy stream — something
my fine dressage horse at home would
never cross without plenty of encouragement.
At one point, Kate asked us to stop to look
up the sides of the ravine at an ancient Hawaiian
rock wall built to keep out wild pigs. Then
we headed into a dense jungle and the famous
Ironwood forests, where soft light filters
through the trees.
At the trail’s end, we left our horses and
gathered on the screened porch for a cold
drink and snacks. I left the group to ask Gina
about her life on Maui. As ranch manager,
she’s conducted 23,000 trail rides. Celebrity
guests have included Britney Spears, Kelsey
Grammer, Rachael Ray, Toby Maguire, Leonardo
DiCaprio, and Natalie Portman.
The horses come from Canada and Southern
California. While many are warmblood/
draft crosses, Gina also tends to prefer Paint
and Quarter Horses. All the horses are fit, obedient,
healthy, and a pleasure to ride. TTR

Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota/
Big Horn National Forest, Wyoming
Broken Arrow Campground
is a new horse camp near
Custer, South Dakota; it’s surrounded
by the Black Hills National
Forest. It offers covered
pens, full hookups, trail access
from camp, plus a rental trailer
to get to other trailheads.
The Black Hills area has
miles of marked, fairly easy
trails. We rode three hours
from the campground to the
Blue Bell Lodge in Custer
State Park for lunch.
Another day, we hauled
24 miles to the Willow Creek
Trailhead on Highway 244.
From there, we rode Trail #9
to Harney Peak (elevation,
7,242 feet), which took 2½ hours. Harney Peak
is a historic fire lookout that offers spectacular
views.
The final mile has numerous switchbacks
and rocks, but isn’t dangerous. Near the top
are rope tie rails to secure horses. We hiked
the rest of the way on stone and then metal
stairs. It was worth the ride!
We took another day ride from the Iron
Creek Trailhead on the north side of Custer
State Park heading north on the Centennial
Trail #89 and then to Blackberry Trail to
Mount Rushmore, which took two hours. The
last half-mile is steep and requires climbing
over and around large rocks, but it’s doable!
At Mount Rushmore (www.mtrushmore.
net), there are pipe rails to tie horses located
in a secluded area at the far edge of the gravel
parking lot. I’d advise driving rather than riding
to fully tour the monument and museum.
We continued from Mount Rushmore north
on the Centennial Trail to Big Pine Trailhead
story and photo By suzIE smIth
www.MyHorse.com/trailrider
Writer Suzie Smith and her 3-yearold
homebred Morgan, Higgins,
at the Mount Rushmore Pipe
Rails.
on Highway 244, which took
2½ hours.
After a week in the Black
Hills, we hauled to the Bighorn
National Forest west of
Buffalo, Wyoming. Our horses
had no problem adjusting
to the high altitude (7,000 to
10,600 feet).
Our day rides consisted of
long loops through the mountains.
We rode south about a
half-mile on Forest Rd. #24
from Battle Park Trailhead to
the first all-terrain-vehicle trailhead going east
toward Misty Moon Lake. Near Misty Moon Lake,
we connected with the Solitude Lake Trail to
loop back to Battle Park Trailhead (a nine-hour
loop). We saw glacial lakes, stunning waterfalls,
and patches of snow on the mountaintops. Wildlife
included elk, deer, moose, and an owl.
Our longest day started at 6:20 a.m. from
Hunter Trailhead. We headed up the trail to Florence
Pass at 11:00 a.m. Our easy trail became
dangerous, with 10-inch talus (broken rock) and
big boulders. Time constraints made us backtrack
toward camp. We took an hour-long side
trip up Trail #24 to view Seven Brothers (a chain
of seven glacial lakes) and returned to camp at
4:45 p.m., just ahead of the outfitter strings.
This is magnificent country, but plan ahead.
Call ranger districts and camps for more information.
Know your and your horse’s abilities
and needs. Carry emergency supplies, and get
contact information in advance for area veterinarians
and farriers. TTR

Horse Heaven Ranch,
Oklahoma
story and photo By shErrI BoatrIght
Horse Heaven Ranch, a
100-acre horse camp, offers
direct access to endless
miles of trails. It lies in the
western portion of the Ouachita
Mountains, off Highway
63, about seven miles
east of Talihina.
The Ouachita National
Forest, with more than 1.7
million acres of pristine
beauty, is the oldest and largest
national forest in the southern United States.
The Ouachita National Recreation Trail stretches
192 miles from Talihina to Little Rock, Arkansas.
You can’t miss the entrance to the horse
camp: a grand circle-drive entry decorated with
a well-manicured green lawn, white-wood fencing,
and a magnificent stone wall built from
natural rock and adorned with the camp logo.
It’s about a one-mile drive to the actual
camp, along a smooth, well-graded gravel road.
Trees towered above us on both sides. As we
entered the campground, we saw a very large
arena with steel railing on our left.
As though the “grand entrance” weren’t
enough, the campground was a masterpiece.
A well-lit, smooth gravel road runs through
the middle. Several one-way roads branch off
and loop through the campsites.
At the end of the center road, at the northerly
end of the camp, there are six cabins with
horse facilities for rent. Trash cans are plentiful
throughout the camp, and you can either
bag your manure or scatter it. At the camp
center is a large bath house built of stone.
The restrooms are immaculate, and the showers
offer plenty of hot water.
Campsites vary in size and are comfortably
spaced throughout the camp. Each of the 32
recreational-vehicle sites has a level concrete
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
Appaloosas Chase and Chester
enjoy the sunset from their
“room with a view.” Each of the
32 campsites has two 10-by-10foot
corrals.
pad to park your rig, and offers
shade trees, green grass,
and a gravel picnic area. The
picnic area has a table, barbeque
grill, and campfire
ring. For your horses, there
are two white 10-by-10-foot corrals.
Along with water and electric hookups,
there’s a central dump station — and some sites
even have a septic station right there at your
pad! We’d never seen a horse camp like this one.
The trails close to the horse camp are level
and wide enough for two riders. Deeper into
the mountains, the trails narrowed and became
rockier. If you shoe your horses, make
sure they’re freshly shod; if your horse is
barefoot, take along hoof boots if his hooves
haven’t yet toughened up.
Along the trails are numerous ponds and
water crossings, mostly large creeks lined with
river rock. In spring, water is plentiful, but the
creeks can disappear in the drier months.
Another day, we went all the way up to the
Talimena Scenic Drive and came back down
the mountain on a different trail, making a
great loop back to camp. Some trails have
good, steady climbs and switchbacks, but not
one trail has ledge; all the climbs are gradual.
You can also find sections good enough to lope
on, if you choose.
We found the most scenic trails to be the
Southface, Black Jack, Lords, Outrider, and
the upper section of the “A” trail. They climb
up the mountains through lush, green forest
with views at the top. TTR

Shawnee National Forest,
Illinois
story and photos By Kathy a. WaLsh
We’ve been horse owners for more than
half our lives and used to live outside of Chicago.
Everyone talked and dreamed abut riding
in the Shawnee National Forest, or “the Shawnee”
in southern Illinois. But without a trailer,
it was a tough go.
My husband suggested we find a rental stable
in the Shawnee area to ride for a day. We
did much better: We found Honey Bee Stables
in Golcanda, Illinois, run by Wendy Daugherty.
Wendy offers guided rides for a half-day, a full
day, or several days.
We chose to book two days. Wendy’s horses
are calm and easy to
ride. (Prior riding experience
is preferred, but not
required.) We opted for
the all-day rides, which
include a great packed-in
lunch. As a bonus, Wendy
spoiled us with handmade
chocolates for dessert!
The first day, we rode
off from the stable into
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beautiful forest, crossing creeks and lunching
at a waterfall in a small canyon. The colors
were just changing, and it was fantastic.
The second day, we trailered out to Lusk
Creek and rode to an area called Indian Kitchen,
which has unique rock formations. While
we ran into several large groups, everyone was
very nice and the horses were well-mannered.
Some trails are narrow, but there are places to
pass. The woods are deep and quiet, making
this a must-ride area.
This is a great way to see the Shawnee, and
check out the trails and camps before taking
your own horse. Although,
with the high price of gas,
we might just pay Wendy
another visit. TTR
“The colors were just changing,
and it was fantastic,” writes Kathy
Walsh of her ride. “The woods
are deep and quiet.” Inset:
Walsh’s husband aboard one of
Honey Bee Stables’ mounts.

V6 Ride, Parkfield,
California
story and photos By LIsa thompson
Conversation and chatter quieted and soon
stopped. A few horses shifted their weight;
you could hear their hooves on the soft earth
below. The full moon above allowed only the
brightest stars to shine in the clear night sky,
but allowed us the view for miles across the
rolling golden hills of central California.
We were here in this place at the invitation
of our host, Jack Varian. During dinner, he’d
asked the group, “How about a moonlight ride?”
I thought that was pretty sporty of him,
seeing as how the 50 of us had just arrived
at the V6 Ride in Parkfield, California. Most
guests had trailered their own horses to
camp. Jack’s wife, Zee, had brought 13 of
their ranch horses for visitors who couldn’t
bring their own.
Gathering in the shadows of the oak trees
at 9:00 p.m., we’d ridden down the dry creek
bed, then up to the top of a hill, where Jack
had suggested we stop — and listen — to the
quiet. I tell you, it was almost religious.
The ride was organized through the Arabian
Horse Association. All sorts of horses and
people had signed up. Show horses, endurance
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
horses, and backyard horses — young and old,
feisty and calm.
Thursday morning, we climbed hills and
crossed creeks, we got to know each other and
enjoyed the warm day. Early in the ride, a few
of the horses jumped around a bit, but soon
settled in. I discovered that some of the horses
— and riders, too — had never been up a hill
or ridden out across country.
Back at the barn, we enjoyed a delicious
lunch. In the afternoon, participants could
either rest, take a short ride with Zee, or rope
a fake calf “running” behind an ATV, its back
legs loping exactly like a calf’s would.
Just prior to the afternoon activities, Jack’s
cousin, Sheila Varian — the renowned Arabian
Horse breeder, Cowgirl Museum and Hall
of Fame inductee, and all-around great lady
— presented the group with a clinic on opening
a gate. This seemingly simple task, if done
correctly, can teach you to master complete
control and communication with your horse.
Friday was our cattle drive. The morning
was cool and the sky gray as we crossed the
road and began our search. With coaching from
All V6 participants line up for a photo. “All sorts of horses and people signed up,” notes writer Lisa Thompson.
“Show horses, endurance horses, and backyard horses — young and old, feisty and calm.”

Jack and Zee, their son John, and his kids, we
bunched the cattle together and marched them
to the big arena below their house.
While we ate our lunch, Sheila gave a
talk about horsemanship, and the traditional
methods and tack of the early California vaqueros.
Her fine Arabian Horse, Jubilation,
standing calmly behind her, she talked about
spurs and bits, how to take a horse from a
hackamore to a bosal to a bridle with two
reins, and finally to a finished bridle horse.
One person asked Sheila why a horseman
would want his horse “finished” that way. “The
difference is like driving an old Jeep around or
driving a nice Mercedes; I prefer the Mercedes,”
Sheila replied.
Saturday was the long ride. A perfect day
followed us as we climbed more than 2,000
feet to the skyline. From our lunch spot on
the ridge top, we looked out toward the east.
We could just barely make out the tops of the
Sierra Nevada Mountains.
There’s no nose-to-tail riding at the V6
Ranch; you can fan out and cover wide expanses
of sloping hillsides. Trees, bushes, and rocks
become your training aids, helping you learn
to better maneuver your horse.
Sheila and I split off from the group and
took a steeper route. Knowing that there was
one spot ahead that would be a challenge for
some riders, we positioned ourselves at a good
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Participants in the Arabian
Horse Association’s V6 Ride in
Parkfield, California, gather cattle.
“At the V6 ranch, you’re not
hustled around by a bunch of
employees; it’s all family fun,”
notes writer Lisa Thompson.
vantage spot. All came
through safely, but we
couldn’t help but notice
the ones who raced up the
hill on the other side of
the crossing. The horses
took their riders to a spot
of their choosing, rather
than the riders controlling the horses.
Sheila began to turn sort of gray-green.
She’s a teacher in her soul. There are times
when a teacher needs to take control of the
classroom and get everyone’s attention.
She did a fine job of doing just that.
Her lesson was on ranch etiquette. No
matter what your discipline or sport is at
home, there are rules of ranch riding that are
as important as wearing a nice dress to high
tea. The rules are simply mannerly conduct
that focuses on not only controlling your own
horse, but considering the minds of the horses
near you, as well.
The last few minutes of the ride, I spoke to
riders about their experience on the V6. Jeff
told me that he thought he’d learned more
about riding in four days than he’d learned
with 10 years of lessons. Anne told me that all
the things she’d been learning at the trainers
now made sense. Another man told me it was
a life-changing experience.
Dinner that night may’ve been the best
steak dinner I’ve ever had. After dinner, we
watched a slide show of our experiences. A
cowboy from town came with his guitar and
played around the campfire. He was still playing,
with all singing along, while I took my
hot shower. (Yes — a hot shower in a horse
camp.) He kept playing till after my sleepy self
snuggled into bed. TTR

Stehekin,
Washington
story and photos By mIChELLE sChmIdtKE, dVm
The remote community
of Stehekin lies at
the north end of the 55mile
long trench of Lake
Chelan in north central
Washington state. The
easiest way to get there
is by boat from the town
of Chelan, 190 miles east
of Seattle, at the lake’s
south end.
If you’re more adventurous,
you can ride your
horse to Stehekin along
a wilderness trail. When
you get there, treat yourself
to the comforts and
camaraderie of a stay
at the Stehekin Valley
Ranch.
Last summer, I rode
to the ranch with my husband. Before we left
home, we called the National Park Service and
the United States Forest Service for information
about trail conditions.
Our route passed through the North Cascades
National Park and the Lake Chelan National
Recreation Area, so we made sure we were in
compliance with their respective regulations.
You need a permit to camp in the national
park. You can get a permit, free of charge, at a
national park ranger station. Only 12 “heartbeats”
— human, horse, or dog — are allowed
in a designated wilderness area.
Our point of departure was the Bridge
Creek trailhead between Rainy and Washington
Pass, elevation 4,500 feet, on State Route
20, the North Cascades Scenic Hwy., 67 miles
from Seattle. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses
the highway here.
The trailhead is right off the highway.
The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
Writer Michelle Schmidtke,
DVM, on the trail at
McAlester Pass, the long
way back to Bridge Creek
trailhead.
You’ll find plenty of
room for trucks and
horse trailers.
In the coolness of
the early morning, we
started south on the
PCT. We rode down the
heavily forested valley
of Bridge Creek, occasionally
catching sight
of snow-covered peaks.
Streams, tumbling
down from the mountains
around us, crossed
the trail frequently and
provided plenty of water for the horses.
The PCT from State Route 20 to the Stehekin
Valley was safe for horses and well-
maintained. In the first nine miles, we crossed
water, went over several bridges, and experienced
minimal elevation changes.
We stopped for lunch at the junction with
the North Fork trail. This is a good place to tie
horses, about nine miles from the trailhead.
After lunch, we crossed to the other side of
Bridge Creek and gently descended into the
Stehekin River Valley at Mile 12.
Shortly after entering the valley, we passed
Bridge Creek Camp, a park service horse camp
with corrals, hitch rails, and water. This is the
only designated horse camp in the Stehekin
Valley and a great place to stay if you don’t
plan to continue on to the Stehekin Valley
Ranch, seven miles farther. After 19 miles of
trail riding, we reached our destination.
GEORGE SCHOENFELD PHOTO

The Stehekin Valley Ranch is a wonderful
place to stay. Meals, lodging, and transportation
are included in the price. We stayed in a
tent cabin, simple but very comfortable. Also
available are cabins that sleep up to six people,
with bathrooms and electricity. Rates vary,
depending on the number of nights you stay,
your age, and lodging choice.
The food is plentiful and delicious. I’d
characterize it as Western-style comfort food:
plenty of meat and potatoes, but an ample
spread of salads and fruit. Meals are served
family-style in the main ranch house.
On our second day, we explored the trails
surrounding the ranch. In retrospect, we
should’ve taken it easy and rested up for our
ride out the next day.
All too soon, we had to saddle up our horses
and head back. The shorter way out was
the way we came. A longer, more scenic loop
goes over McAlester Pass and ties into the PCT
about three miles from State Route 20.
Gluttons for punishment, we opted for the
scenic route. It was definitely not the easy way
out; we recommend it only for experienced
trail riders on very fit horses.
After a four-mile ride down the Stehekin
www.MyHorse.com/trailrider
MICHELLE SCHMIDTKE, DVM, PHOTO
George Schoenfeld,
husband of
writer Michelle
Schmidtke, DVM,
poses on the
Rainbow Loop
Trail at the Lake
Chelan Overlook
in the Lake
Chelan National
Recreation Area.
River Road, the only road servicing the valley,
we reached the Rainbow Loop trailhead. Forest
fires were raging in the mountains above
us. The scent of smoke filled the air. The trails
accessing the Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness
from here were closed due to fire hazard, but
the trail to McAlester Pass was still open.
The only way out of the valley was up. We
reached a stunning overlook of Lake Chelan
after about a 1,000-foot elevation gain in two
miles.
The trail continued to climb as it followed
a stream for another two miles, then dropped
as we approached the junction with the Rainbow
Lake trail. Beside us, the rushing torrent
of Rainbow Creek cascaded down from the
mountains surrounding Lake Chelan.
After we crossed Rainbow Creek, the
trail climbed even higher. At 6,000 feet,
we reached the lovely meadowlands of
McAlester Pass and the junction with the
South Pass and McAlester trails. We’d gained
more than 5,000 feet since leaving the valley.
We reined left on the McAlester trail. We
rode past McAlester Lake, and the next four
miles dropped gently to our loop’s completion
at the PCT. TTR

AHA Jack Monroe Horseback Beach Ride
For more information, call (843) 282-2930, or visit
www.horsebackbeachride.kintera.org/myrtlebeachsc.
For more on Lakewood Camping Resort, call
(877) 525-3966, or visit www.lakewoodcampground.com.
Bar W Guest Ranch
For more information, call (866) 828-2900, or visit
www.guestranches.com/barw.
Black Hills National Forest/Bighorn National Forest
For more information on Broken Arrow Campground, call
(605) 673-4471, or visit www.brokenarrowcampground.
com. For more on Black Hills National Forest, call
(605) 673-9200, or visit www.fs.fed.us/r2/blackhills.
For more on the Bighorn Mountains, call (307) 674-2600,
or visit www.fs.fed.us/r2/bighorn.
Canyon de Chelly
National Monument
For more information, call
the National Park Service at
(928) 674-5500, or visit
www.nps.gov/cach.
For more on Thunderbird
Lodge, call (800) 679-2473,
or visit www.tbirdlodge.com.
For more on the Coolidge-
Martin Campground, call
(928) 550-1311.
The best time of the
year to ride in Canyon
de Chelly National
Monument in Arizona
is spring and late fall. In
the summer, temperatures
can climb to the
triple digits; in the winter
the canyon can get
snow. (See page 16.)
Resource Guide
0 The Trail Rider Magazine 20 Top Trail Rides
Cloud Peak Wilderness
For more information, visit www.fs.fed.us/r2/bighorn/
recreation/wilderness.
Coldwater Recreation Area
For more information, contact the Florida Division of Forestry
(850) 957-6161, or visit www.fl-dof.com.
Copper Canyon
For more information, visit www.mexicohorse.com and
www.overthehilloutfitters.com.
Elk Country
For more information on the trail ride, call (570) 278-4747,
or visit www.pennsylvaniarmef.org. For more on Big Elk Lick,
call (814) 787-4656. For more on Thunder Mountain Equestrian
Trail, visit www.dcnr.state.pa.us/forestry/equestrian/
thunder_mountain.aspx.
CHRISTINE DuVaL-SENTy PHOTO

Grand Canyon National Park
For more information on the mule trip, visit www.grand
canyon.com/gcnmule.html. For reservations, call Xanterra
Parks & Resorts (888) 297-2757, or visit www.grand
canyonlodges.com.
Gunpowder Falls State Park
For more information, call (888) 432-CAMP [2267], or visit
www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/central/gunpowder.html.
Horse Heaven Ranch
For more information, call (254) 289-2242, or visit
www.horseheavenranchresort.com.
Ironwood Ranch
For more information, call (808) 669-4991, or visit
www.ironwoodranch.com.
Merritt, British Columbia
For more information, visit www.tourismmerritt.com.
For more on riding in British Columbia, visit www.camping
andhorses.com. For more on the Back Country Horsemen
of British Columbia, visit www.bchorsemen.org. For more
information on the Nicola Ranch, call (888) 708-7388,
or visit www.nicolaranch.com.
Monongahela National Forest
For more information, call (304) 636-1800, or visit
www.fs.fed.us/r9/mnf/rec/horse_backopportunities.html.
For more on Glady Fork Cabins, call (877) 636-6574,
or visit www.gladyforkcabins.com.
Nebraska/South Dakota
For more information on Fort Robinson State Park, call
PHOTO COuRTESy OF baR W RaNCH
www.MyHorse.com/trailrider
(308) 665-2660, or visit www.stateparks.com/
fortrobinson.html. For more on Custer State Park, visit
www.sdgfp.info/parks. For more on Palmer Gulch Lodge,
visit www.palmergulch.com. For more on Mount Rushmore
National Memorial, call (605) 5740-2523, or visit
www.nps.gov/moru.
Outlaw Trail Ride
For more information, call (307) 864-2287, visit
www.rideoutlawtrail.com, or send an e-mail to
outlaw@tribcsp.com.
Salt Grass Trail Ride
This ride is held annually in late February. For more
information, visit www.saltgrasstrailride.org.
Shawnee National Forest
For more information on Honey Bee Stables, call
(618) 949-3791, or visit www.honeybeestables.com.
For more on the Shawnee National Forest, visit
www.fs.fed.us/r9/forests/shawnee.
Stehekin, Washington
For more information on Stehekin Valley Ranch, call
(800) 536-0745, or visit www.courtneycountry.com.
For lodgings and attractions in the Stehekin Valley, visit
www.stehekinvalley.com. For more on North Cascades
National Park, visit www.north.cascades.national-park.com.
V6 Ride
For more information, call the Arabian Horse Association at
(303) 696-4500, or visit www.arabianhorses.org/activities/
trailride/V6ranch.asp. All breeds are welcome. TTR
Beautiful vistas with
mountains and
rolling ridges in all
directions decorate
the countryside
of Bar W Ranch in
Whitefish, Montana,
which offers 3,000
acres for riding and
wilderness activities.
(See page 4.)

P.O. Box 420235
Palm Coast, FL 32142
TRD-PTTT9