C&K mag #31ss- final - Canoe & Kayak

SEA KAYAKING
Mayor Island / Tuhua
by Lesley Noel
After several aborted attempts the Bay
of Plenty Yakity Yak club finally made
it to Mayor Island via the Ali J 1. a
charter boat, skippered by Tony . The
trip normally takes fifty minutes as
opposed to the three hours the
Tauranga ferry takes, however our
trip was slightly longer as the seas
were massive and the bar raging.
Our fearless five were Roger McQuitty and Tony
Cox Smith from Tauranga, Peter Scammell,
Hamilton, Marama Clarke, Gisborne and myself.
Seventy minutes after take off we had our first
introduction to the Island. As we unloaded the
Puffin, Tui, Tasman Express, Penguin and Cobra
Tourer from the charter boat backed to the
beach, we all ended up wet to our waists. Zane
the Island’s caretaker was there to help. During
our stay he told us the history of Tuhua, their
plans for the future and gave us a map of
the Island.
We pitched our tents, unpacked, and then took
off in our kayaks from South East Bay for South
West Bay. The beaches looked benign but
within two to three metres of the shore you
register the swell. The sea breaks and drags you
away almost as fast as you can pull your deck
tag. We had a few laughs at our landings. Bodies
half in and half out of the kayaks were swept
seaward and then unceremoniously dumped
in again. A few bruised shins! Assisted landings
become the norm. Once landed we donned
masks and went snorkelling around the rocks.
The waters were fantastically clear and revealed
much sea life. Further around the coast we had
fun going through an archway at Turuturu rock.
That evening we walked to a massive
pohutukawa tree, then out to the lighthouse
and down to South West Bay . We skirted fig
and stone fruit trees ,evidence of past occupation.
The bush and pohutukawa trees were awesome.
There are cabins for rent with bunk beds, basic
but adequate. However we tented. The furnace
was firing all day making our evening shower
just off cold, but the dishwater was hot!
The following day in large swells we circumnavigated
the Island, anticlockwise. The first
third of the Island is bayed. We crossed from
headland to headland as the seas didn’t allow
for any rock gardening. Where the Marine
Reserve starts the seas got quite interesting.
16 ISSUE THIRTYone • 2005
Two metre swells broke on the cliffs, one metre
swells retreated and a cross swell from behind
kept us on our toes.
The next third of our paddle was past huge
obsidian banded cliffs going straight down into
the sea. A puff of wind got up but died just as
quickly. Rounding Tumutu Point the seas were
calmer, a pleasant change after going every
which way for two and a half hours. Half an
hour later we landed on Oira beach. On went
the masks and snorkels for more awesome
underwater scenes in some of the clearest
waters I have experienced in New Zealand.
We rounded Tokimataa Point into South East
Bay. Roger wished to try Pete’s Cobra Tourer so
I gave him a hand line and a dead orange
roughy I’d picked out of the water. He paddled
out to the entrance, baited up and bang! Caught a
nice kingfish. All triumphant he paddled back
and was pounded on the shore amidst much
laughter and picture taking. We ate his catch
just before leaving the next day. It was delicious.
Our last day dawned just as beautiful as the
previous two. We set off decked out in sun tops
and t-shirts through dense bush and didn’t see
the sun until two hours later at the cliff top and
then very briefly. What an exercise though. After
forty minutes of a steep walk we came to
crossroads and had to decide whether to go via
the Devils staircase or come back that way.
Choosing the latter, as we preferred to go up
the tougher sounding stretch, we hit the crater
wall and thought they had their signs mixed -
but no. Up till now the track had been covered
in leaves and was quite slippery but this was
nothing. Going down in one spot on a sheer
cliff on a small ladder held in place with steel
rope made the legs shake. Our wonderful
native trees with their amazing root systems
were such a help. Once in the Crater Lake, Te
Paritu ( Black Lake ) became visible on our left
through overhanging trees. It was swampy and
covered with pollen so it looked yellow not
black. Some way past from another cross road,
five minutes takes you down to the Green Lake
Aroaritamahine. You can swim in this lake but I
chose not to. More pics and on to the Devils
staircase which started five minutes up the track.
This took us up to the cliff face overlooking
Taratimi Bay , awesome, and up a narrow windy
ledge. Great views. The last part of the tramp
was downhill and returned us to South East bay
where a swim was in order. From the calls we
could hear, bird life was abundant, but to see
them was a different story as the canopy was
very high.
Before the charter boat arrived to pick us up,
we had one last kayak around to Turuturu Rock,
a quick snorkel and more rock gardening as
the seas were lovely and calm.
Things to watch out for; bees and wasps. We
could have operated and given a tracheotomy
but had nothing in our first aid kit for stings!
Nor major bruises, but here the Island
provided leaves , which we steeped and bound
on to the affected part.
Mayor Island is a fantastic destination,
awesome paddling, snorkelling and fishing and
for those who tramp anything from a half hour
walk to six hours around the Island. I
understand there are some huge caves to
explore through the Marine Reserve area should
you be lucky enough to have the sea cooperate.
How to get there:
Waihi Beach Boat Charters, with Tony and
Robyn Prujean, phone 07 863 5385
Tony skippers the Ali J 1 which takes about
50 mins from Bowentown to Mayor Island.
Minimum of 4, Maximum of 6. Safe car
parking and shuttle service included in the
$70 return fee inc. kayak. Booking essential.
Camping - Phone 07 579 5655
Cost $ 6 a campsite or $10 a night for a bunk.
Photos by Simon Greig