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Navigation officers used observation watches,
also known as deck watches, to help determine
a ship’s position at sea. The town of Glashütte,
Germany produced marine chronometers
and observation watches until well into the
1970s. Taking great pride in this tradition, last
year Glashütte Original presented a new
version of the observation watch: a limited
edition in white gold honoring the memory
of Julius Assmann and Roald Amundsen.
This year the firm follows the limited edition
model with a stainless steel version, available
with two elegant variants of the dial.
Julius Assmann was one of the extraordinary
watchmakers who established the industry
senator observer
in Glashütte. His firm specialized in the
manufacture of these handmade wonders.
The precision and reliability of its observation
watches - in particular under extreme weather
conditions — made them indispensable to
navigation officers, pilots, and pioneering
explorers such as Roald Amundsen, who took
a number of Julius Assmann observation
watches with him on his legendary expedition
to the South Pole in 1911.
The design of the Senator Observer takes
its inspiration directly from the observation
watches made in Assmann’s Glashütte atelier.
There are two stainless steel models, one
with a lacquered silver grained dial, the other
with a lacquered gray grained dial.
The dials of both are built up slowly from
three separate layers of lacquer and present
a finely textured, grained surface, showing a
subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o’clock and the
power reserve display at 3 o’clock. Glashütte
Original’s compelling panorama date display
is featured prominently at 6 o’clock. Blued
steel hands and a milled railroad chapter ring
frame black and white Arabic numerals.
The Senator Observer features a 44mm case
fashioned of polished and satin-brushed
stainless steel and is available with either a
black Louisiana alligator leather strap or a
“vintage” brown calfskin strap, both available
with a stainless steel fold-over clasp.
At the heart of the Senator Observer is
the automatic Caliber 100-14, an exquisitely
finished self-winding movement with a 55
hour power reserve. Although traditional
observation watches used hand-wound
movements, Glashütte Original has chosen
to outfit the Senator Observer with a
contemporary automatic movement in order
to maximize comfort for the wearer. Thus,
the Ab Auf indicator on the dial represents
a true power reserve, rather than a simple
indication of running time. The exquisite
finishing of the automatic Caliber 100-14 is
easily visible through the sapphire case back.
The movement features a characteristic
three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing,
polished steel components and beveled
edges that distinguish high-end mechanical
watches from Glashütte Original.
the eclipse onyx | grande heure onyx
Creations bearing the Jaquet Droz signature
are grounded in excellence and poetic
imagination. They spring from a matrix where
history joins forces with innovation and the
gleam of metal enhances the rare beauty of
mineral dials. In keeping with this exclusive
legacy, Jaquet Droz pursues its quest by introducing
two new timepieces of unprecedented
elegance.
THE ECLIPSE ONYX
True to its creative tradition, Jaquet Droz
continues to fuel a rich dialogue between
its various models, a surprising give-and-take
of materials and colors. Building on its unrivalled
experience with minerals, Jaquet Droz
fashioned The Eclipse Onyx with the moon
phase complication and a dial cut from a disc
of black onyx. The magical color of the stone
provides a marvelous foil for the bright rhodium-plated
metal of the eight stars and the
moon, whose vintage-style design remains
unchanged. Also cut from black onyx, the index
reinforces this striking contrast and takes
the game of hide-and-seek to a new level in
its high-precision interaction with the smiling
moon face.
The Eclipse Onyx retains its perfect overall
balance, featuring streamlined hours and minutes
hands, the graphic yet sensuous curves
of the date hand topped with a silvery crescent
moon, and apertures displaying the day
and month appearing in white against a black
background. Although its visual harmony has
been fully preserved, The Eclipse Onyx takes
liberties with the codes of watchmaking: for
the first time, a steel case is used for a watch
with complications. Reflecting the strength of
metal and the forcefulness of minerals, The
Eclipse Onyx asserts its evocative powers
and its aura of masculinity with utmost refinement.
GRANDE HEURE ONYX
Surprising the eye with its artistic prowess
and technical excellence, the Grande Heure
Onyx takes a revolutionary step in luxury
watchmaking. A disc of onyx, cut with great
care by the master dialmakers at Jaquet
Droz, brings out the magic of monochromatic
black. It's as if time had been completely reinvented
on a dark night, full of dreams and
poetic imaginings. True luxury implies a large
measure of freedom: no connoisseur will begrudge
the minutes or seconds needed for its
appreciation. Here, the minutes and seconds
have vanished from the face of the watch, until
all that remains is a majestic hours hand,
making its rounds once a day. Completely
redesigned to accommodate index markers
in the form of Arabic numerals, the dial
reflects this new take on the philosophy of
time. A visual image whose impact relies on
simplicity – black onyx versus bright steel, the
balance contributed by its single hand versus
the generous curves of the case – the Grande
Heure Onyx expresses the purity favored by
Jaquet Droz and is certain to delight watch
aficionados. For these connoisseurs, there is
much more to time than taking the frenzied
pulse of everyday life: the mystery of its passing
and the magic of its daily rebirth are an
endless source of fascination.
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