24.03.2013 Views

Do it yourself worm farming - City of Onkaparinga.

Do it yourself worm farming - City of Onkaparinga.

Do it yourself worm farming - City of Onkaparinga.

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

<strong>Do</strong> <strong>it</strong> <strong>yourself</strong> <strong>worm</strong> <strong>farming</strong><br />

Worm farms are simple structures that<br />

you can easily and affordably do <strong>yourself</strong>.<br />

They consist <strong>of</strong> 3-4 stackable layers made<br />

up <strong>of</strong> plastic, wood or any other<br />

lightweight material. (Polystyrene boxes<br />

are perfect and can be obtained from<br />

your local fru<strong>it</strong> and vegetable shop).<br />

The <strong>worm</strong>s live in the layers and simply<br />

wriggle up from the lower level to the one<br />

above feeding on the food and veggie<br />

scraps that might have otherwise gone to<br />

waste.<br />

The base layer should have a solid floor to<br />

catch the liquid fertilizer that percolates<br />

down from the living and feeding layers.<br />

Ideally <strong>it</strong> is great to have a tap, although<br />

a hole that you can plug will certainly<br />

make do. Simply tilt the stack to allow the<br />

liquid to run through and collect.<br />

The upper layers will need to be<br />

perforated to allow the <strong>worm</strong>s to move<br />

through to reach the food supplies on the<br />

next level. These layers need to lock into<br />

each other and need to be deep enough to<br />

leave enough room w<strong>it</strong>hout being<br />

squashed.<br />

1. On the top layer f<strong>it</strong> an upper (holey) bin 1<br />

and line w<strong>it</strong>h newspaper or cardboard (as per<br />

diagram).<br />

2. Purchase a block <strong>of</strong> peat or coconut oil from<br />

local hardware store and pre-soak to create<br />

bedding for your new friends.<br />

3. Purchase red or tiger <strong>worm</strong>s from Council or<br />

local supplier (1 - 2000) and place in the<br />

bedding.<br />

4. Give the <strong>worm</strong>s a small amount <strong>of</strong> food<br />

scraps and cover to keep dark and protect<br />

from sunlight w<strong>it</strong>h hessian, carpet or a thick<br />

layer <strong>of</strong> newspaper.<br />

5. Allow <strong>worm</strong>s to settle a couple <strong>of</strong> weeks<br />

before lifting the cover and adding the next<br />

layer, bin 2 (as per diagram).<br />

6. Start placing food in bin 2 making sure not<br />

to over feed. Only ever have half the tray<br />

filled w<strong>it</strong>h food and then cover as before to<br />

keep dark.<br />

The <strong>worm</strong>s will move up to the next layer<br />

to feed and eventually fill bin #1 w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

castings which you can then put out on<br />

the garden and start the process again.


<strong>Do</strong> <strong>it</strong> <strong>yourself</strong> mulch<br />

Mulch is a terrific water and garden saver,<br />

helps to reduce weeds and most importantly<br />

improves the qual<strong>it</strong>y <strong>of</strong> sandy and clay like<br />

soils by improving the amount <strong>of</strong> organic<br />

matter and encouraging earth <strong>worm</strong>s. You<br />

can recycle your would be waste at home to<br />

save money and benef<strong>it</strong> both your garden<br />

and the environment.<br />

Mulching materials found at home<br />

• Grass and leaves can be used for mulch,<br />

but <strong>it</strong>s best if they are dried first or<br />

mixed w<strong>it</strong>h coarse materials like twigs to<br />

prevent them from forming a waterpro<strong>of</strong><br />

layer when they are tightly packed<br />

together. Lawn clippings are actually best<br />

left on the lawn (but that is dependant on<br />

how you like the appearance <strong>of</strong> your lawn<br />

to be). Fallen leaves are also useful. If you<br />

have problems w<strong>it</strong>h them decomposing too<br />

slowly, run the lawnmower over the top<br />

and mix w<strong>it</strong>h cut grass or twigs.<br />

• Compost and manure are some <strong>of</strong> the best<br />

materials that you can use. These will<br />

decay quickly and provide lots <strong>of</strong> nutrients<br />

for the soil. Mix manure w<strong>it</strong>h other<br />

mulches especially when fresh.<br />

• Newspaper makes a perfect weed mat<br />

when soaked and layered in the garden,<br />

newspaper works best when combined w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

another mulch that is heavier to go on top<br />

and prevent the newspaper from flying<br />

away. Woodchips, pine-bark and even peastraw<br />

are ideal to do this.<br />

How to go about <strong>it</strong><br />

Clear away any weeds from around your<br />

plants, break up the soil crust, and water<br />

the area. Spread the mulch evenly around<br />

the plants until <strong>it</strong> is approximately 7cm deep.<br />

Always remember to leave a space around<br />

the plant stem to prevent stem rot. Top up<br />

every season, as most mulches will break<br />

down quickly to become part <strong>of</strong> the soil.<br />

When to apply mulch<br />

The time <strong>of</strong> application depends on what you<br />

hope to achieve by mulching. Mulches, by<br />

providing an insulating barrier between the<br />

soil and the air, moderate the soil<br />

temperature. This means that a mulched soil<br />

in the summer will be cooler than an<br />

adjacent unmulched soil. However, since<br />

mulch acts as an insulating layer, mulched<br />

soils tend to warm up more slowly in the<br />

spring and cool down more slowly in autumn<br />

than unmulched soils.<br />

Please contact Tess Sapia, Waste and<br />

recycling Education Officer on 8384 0128<br />

for further information.

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!