Cover story - NZ Gardener

Cover story 

20 

worst 

WEEDS 

Our experts have joined forces with the national 

Weedbusters programme to name and shame 

20 of the worst weeds in the nation – most of 

which were introduced as popular garden plants. 

Find out how to stop these noxious nasties now 

12 

INTRODUCTION: RUUD KLEINPASTE 

PHOTOS: WERNER BOLLMANN/STOCKCENTRAL, WEEDBUSTERS 

ost gardeners are familiar with 

our strict quarantine regulations. 

Over the years we’ve opened our 

borders to enough exotic pest 

species to keep us scientifi cally employed for 

the next millennium… or three. Although 

quarantine offi cers now do a magnifi cent job 

keeping the nasties out, in the past there was 

no such thing as “biosecurity”. As a result, our 

gardens and native bush ended up playing 

host to wattles, ginger, hawthorn, gorse, 

blackberries, broom, selaginella – and a heap 

of small herbaceous buggers. 

Of course, we’re not the only country with 

weeds. Travel through Europe, the US or Asia 

and expect to see the world’s great leveller: 

eucalyptus. It’s hideous outside of Australia. 

So, what about New Zealand native trees? 

Are there any species that have become a 

weed elsewhere? The answer is yes – and 

there are some surprisingly spectacular ones. 

The islands of Hawaii tend to have quite 

specifi c and fragile ecological systems, which 

are open to invasion by interlopers. In the 

late 1800s, someone there thought it would 

be a “good idea” to introduce our karaka 

(Corynocarpus laevigatus) to Kaua’i. Thanks 

to pigs and birds eating and spreading the 

nutritious seeds, it is now considered an 

“aggressive coloniser”. It grows in shade 

and forms even deeper shade underneath its 

glossy green leaves, suppressing the growth 

of one of Hawaii’s rarest plants, the heau. 

In Hawaii, our tea trees (Leptospermum 

and Kunzea) are also regarded as weeds. They 

behave – just like at home – as very competent 

pioneer species. Any bare patch of soil is 

colonised immediately, thereby excluding 

Hawaii’s native pioneer species. 

Other islands bothered by our tangata fl ora 

include St Helena and Tristan da Cunha in 

the south Atlantic. Flax (Phormium tenax) was 

planted there as a crop for the fi bre industry. 

But when the market collapsed in the 1960s, 

St Helena was left overrun with the stuff and, 

as a result, its endemic plants are threatened. 

Even our most beautiful native trees, 

like pohutukawa, can become a nuisance. 

Metrosideros excelsa was introduced to South 

Africa as an eye-catching ornamental and 

you can see magnifi cent specimens in the 

streets of Cape Town. But our metrosideros 

didn’t confi ne itself to a life in the city: aided 

by its small, windblown seeds, it invaded the 

local ecosystems, or “fi jnbos”, and its status is 

now “invasive alien”. In the global war of the 

weeds, nature’s proving a tough opponent. 

Moth plant 

Araujia sericifera 

This banned plant is also known as kapok 

vine, moth vine, cruel plant and wild choko 

vine. The poisonous, rampant, evergreen 

vines form large, heavy, tangled masses 

that smother trees and bushes. When cut, 

the vines bleed milky sap – hence the 

common name of milk vine or milk weed. 

The choko-like green pods split open to 

release thousands of airborne seeds that 

spread long distances. 

HOW TO KILL IT 

Moth plant is poisonous and can cause skin 

irritations so always wear gloves to protect 

against contact with sap. Seedlings can be 

pulled out year round. For large vines, always 

remove and destroy (burn) the ripe pods fi rst 

to minimise seeding and seed contamination 

of clothing. Chop down the vines (this is best 

done summer/autumn) and coat the stump 

with Tordon Brushkiller, Banvine, Yates 

Woody Weedkiller or McGregror’s Weed Out 

for Woody and Scrub Weeds. Stumps can 

resprout, so follow up six-monthly and 

replant bare spots to stop seeding. 

1 2 3 

Montbretia 

Crocosmia x crocosmiifl ora 

Although this once popular garden plant 

fl owers profusely in summer, it produces 

few seeds. The real problem is caused by 

its corms and rhizomes – they multiply 

rapidly and even a small fragment will 

sprout into a sturdy plant. The strappy, 

sword-shaped leaves rise from the base 

and the tall, zig zag-shaped orange fl owers 

appear from January to February. It tolerates 

frost and heat, damage and grazing, damp, 

and moderate shade. Montbretia competes 

mainly with groundcovers and small shrubs 

and it will invade low-growing habitats and 

roadsides. If you love crocosmia fl owers, 

plant the named variety ‘Lucifer’ instead. 


Dig out small infestations and burn any 

corms you collect. However, this approach 

can prove futile when tackling big areas as 

any corms left in the ground will resprout. 

Cut back and coat stumps with Roundup. 

For large spots, spray the foliage with 

Roundup or Escort after fl owering. Add 

some spraying oil so the weedkiller sticks. 

4perennial, mat-forming groundcover has 

Artillery plant 

Galeobdolon luteum 

Also known as aluminium plant, this 

square, purplish stems and stolons that 

are densely hairy and smell mint-like. 


Dig out small patches and burn. For larger 

infestations, wipe leaves with Roundup, 

Escort or McGregor’s Weed out General 

Purpose spray. You’ll need to follow up 

with another spray every three months 

until eradication is achieved. 

Blue morning glory 

Ipomoea indica 

Its very fast growth rate, longevity, dense 

smothering habit and ability to climb to the 

top of high canopies makes blue morning 

glory a dominant vine wherever it occurs. 

It can smother forest growth with a low 

weedy blanket, with tough, hairy, twining, 

running stems and tough fi brous roots 

without rhizomes. Creeping stems spread 

this plant locally, and stem fragments are 

accidentally moved in dumped vegetation. 

In New Zealand it rarely seeds. 


Where it is not too far advanced, hand pull 

and dig out the roots before burning. 

Otherwise, cut the vines down and paint 

the stumps with Roundup, Escort or 

McGregor’s Weed Out General Purpose. In 

summer and autumn you can cut the vines 

at waist height and spray the remaining 

foliage. A good trick to limit any potential 

spray drift is to pour systemic weedkiller 

into a container, place inside a plastic bag 

and tie around part of the vine so the stems 

slowly soak up the weedkiller. 

WAR AGAINST WEEDS 

This article focuses on noxious and nasty 

weeds that, largely, were once loved garden 

plants. In our March 2007 issue, we featured 

20 common lawn and soil weeds including: 

onion weed, dandelions, wild carrot, oxalis, 

lawn daisies, groundsel, bristly ox-tongue, 

plantain, fathen, thistles, buttercup, puha, 

milkweed, clover wall fumitory, cleavers, 

hawksbeared, dock and assorted grasses. 

To fi nd out how to control these weeds, 

visit our website (www.nzgardener.co.nz) 

to download a PDF copy of the article. 

13

Monkey apple 

Acmena smithii 

Also known as lilly pilly and acmena, this 

banned Australian import eventually grows 

into a smooth-barked tree up to 15m tall 

with oval, leathery leaves that are very 

aromatic when crushed. Monkey apples 

can live for a century or more and were 

once a very popular option for hedging and 

shelterbelts. However, when left unpruned, 

whitish fl owers appear from October to 

January, followed by bunches of pink or 

white berry-like fruit with large seeds that 

are greedily scoffed and then spread widely 

by birds – including our native wood pigeon. 

In bush, monkey apple seedlings can form 

dense carpets under the canopy and they 

quickly claim any gaps created by windfall 

or possum damage. 


This one’s a toughie. You can pull or dig 

seedlings and leave on site to rot down, 

but, be warned, bare areas reseed quickly. 

For mature trees, drill a hole every 10cm 

around the trunk and apply a slurry of a 

metsulfuron-based weedkiller (Escort, 

Meturon or Mustang) to each hole. Or cut 

down and paint the stump with the above. 

14 

5 6 7 

Darwin’s barberry 

Berberis darwinii 

Originally from Chile and Argentina, this 

spiny, evergreen, yellow-wooded shrub has 

hairy stems with tough, needle-sharp spines. 

It tolerates moderate to cold temperatures, 

damp and dry conditions, high wind, salt, 

shade, damage and a range of soils. From 

July until February, the plants produce 

hanging clusters of deep orange-yellow 

fl owers, followed by oval purplish-black 

berries with a bluish-white surface. The 

fruit of Darwin’s barberry is eaten by birds 

who spread the seed into native bush. The 

plants (occasionally dense stands) replace 

shrubland and regenerating forest, 

sometimes permanently in open habitats. 


Grub out young plants (although be careful 

of the sharp spines) and leave to rot down. 

For larger specimens, cut down and coat 

the stump with Roundup, Escort, Vigilant 

gel or Tordon Brushkiller. From spring until 

autumn, when the plants are actively 

growing, spray with Escort or Tordon 

Brushkiller. Cut stumps resprout quickly 

and are hard to kill, so follow up every six 

months and keep an eye out for seedlings. 

8forest fl oor and heads up into the canopy, 

Jasmine 

Jasminum polyanthum 

This evergreen climber grows rapidly over 

forming dense, long-lived masses. The 

runners spread long distances – even under 

buildings and over rocks – and because it’s 

highly shade-tolerant, it’s extremely hard to 

kill. The white fl owers (pink in bud) appear 

year round and are very fragrant, hence its 

initial popularity. 

Mexican daisy 

Erigeron karvinskianus 

This sprawling perennial daisy has long, 

thin stems, small leaves and masses of 

white-to-pink fl owers from January to 

December, followed by fl uffy seeds. Seed 

sources can include contaminated topsoil 

and potting mix. In the bush, dense mats of 

Mexican daisies are crowding out native 

plants and opening the way for invasion by 

vines and other weeds. They are also 

pushing aside vulnerable plants on bluffs, 

coastal zones, islands and herb fi elds. 


Convince your fellow gardeners to stop 

growing it, for starters. Their well-travelled 

seeds are constantly creating new colonies 

in bush many miles away. Tell them they’re 

harbouring terrorists! (It is illegal to sell, 

propagate or distribute Mexican daisy 

under the Biosecurity Act 1993.) Dig out 

small plants, avoiding unnecessary soil 

disturbance, and leave to rot or, if seed is 

present, burn. A range of herbicides is 

suitable for controlling Mexican daisy, 

including glyphosate-based sprays such 

as Roundup Renew, McGregor’s Weed out 

and Watkins Weedkiller. 


Cut down the snaking vines (always dry 

and burn the cut vines or take them to your 

local refuse transfer station) and swab the 

stump with Escort, Banvine or Yates Woody 

Weedkiller. Add a penetrant (such as 

Sprayfi x) to ensure the weedkiller sticks to 

the glossy foliage. Spray any regrowth with 

Roundup Renew, Escort, Banvine, McGregor’s 

Weed Out for Woody and Scrub Weeds or 

Yates Woody Weedkiller. 

Ivy 

Hedera helix 

About 75 per cent of New Zealand’s weeds 

are garden escapees. Ivy, which can cling 

to and climb almost any surface, forming 

dense, long-lived masses and completely 

smothering tree trunks and branches, is 

right up there as one of the worst threats 

to native bush. Ivy especially destroys 

vulnerable epiphyte niches. The sheer 

weight of an infestation can bring down 

branches or whole trees. 

How to kill it 

Be aware that ivy can cause skin irritations 

so avoid contact. Small infestations can be 

controlled by removing all stems in contact 

with the ground, and digging up the roots. 

Burn or bury deeply. When ivy has climbed 

into the canopy, or around a favourite tree, 

the cut stump method is best. Cut vines to 

ground level and apply herbicide to the cut 

stump. Suitable herbicides include Vigilant, 

Grazon, Escort and glyphosate-based 

herbicides such as Roundup and McGregor’s 

Weed Out for Woody and Scrub Weeds. 

Because of the way ivy clings to host trees, 

it is best to leave the remaining stems on to 

die. Pulling them off can damage the tree. 

NO 

Spray, NO Mess, NO Weeds 

• WWoolly 

nightshade • Cotoneaster • Gorse 

• OOld 

man’s beard • Kahili ginger • Agapanthus 

• WWandering 

Jew (Willie) 

Ask for Vigilant Herbicide Gel at your 

local garden centre or rural supply outlet. 

9 10 11 

Japanese honeysuckle 

Lonicera japonica 

A vigorous evergreen (semi-evergreen in 

cold regions) climber with long, tough, wiry 

stems that twine clockwise, Japanese 

honeysuckle has sweetly scented, tubular, 

white flowers that turn yellow as they age. 

It flowers from September until May. The 

dense, long-lived plants climb over and 

smother most plants from the ground up to 

the mid-canopy, even causing canopy 

collapse and subsequent invasion of grasses 

or ground vines. Japanese honeysuckle also 

provides support for faster growing weedy 

vines such as morning glory and moth plant. 


Small sites can be cleared by removing the 

stems and digging out the roots. Because 

Japanese honeysuckle is a light seeder, 

sites usually remain clear after treatment. 

A number of chemical controls can be 

used, including Vigilant gel, Grazon, Escort, 

and glyphosate-based herbicides such as 

Roundup Renew and McGregor’s Weed Out 

General Purpose. The best method of 

control is the cut stump method: cut vines 

to ground level and apply herbicide to the 

cut stump immediately. 

Herbicide Gel 

www.hortresearch.co.nz/bet/products/vigilant 0800 VIGILANT (0800 8444 526) 

Agapanthus 

Agapanthus praecox 

This prolific seeder is long-lived and 

tolerates heat, damp, drought, wind, salt... 

even a dip in the sea. Although not a 

problem in frosty climates, it’s an invasive 

beast in northern regions. Seeds blow short 

distances, cover banks and are also carried 

in flowing water. Seed and root fragments 

are spread in contaminated soil, dumped 

vegetation and deliberate planting in our 

gardens. Agapanthus is commonly found in 

gardens, roadsides and banks and seems 

capable of growing in no soil at all. If you 

love agapanthus, there are a number of 

sterile varieties to choose from. 


First, cut off the flower heads before any 

seeds can form. Because agapanthus does 

not respond well to herbicide, hard labour’s 

pretty much the only option – dig out the 

plants, getting as much of the roots as you 

can, and burn or take to your local refuse 

transfer station for disposal. An application 

of Vigilant gel may also help. Prune all the 

shoots off just above ground level and 

apply a 3mm-5mm layer of Vigilant gel 

across the cut surface. 

 

15

You get back to enjoying life. 

We’ll take care of the lawn. 

Irene is fl at-out. Netball champion, TV adverts, magazine shoots, 

pick up the kids from school, weed the lawn and fi nd time to relax 

(if she gets a chance). 

We can’t pick the kids up from school, but we can certainly help you 

with weeding the lawn. It no longer has to be hard or time consuming. 

Simply connect the hose to the sprayer and we’ll mix the water & 

concentrate as you spray, ensuring exactly the right proportions of 

liquid fertiliser and weedkiller is distributed onto the lawn.* 

Yates Weed ‘n’ Feed kills broadleaf weeds and promotes a lush green 

lawn in one application. 

We’ll take care of the garden stuff. You get back to enjoying life. 

*Always read the product label before using. 

16 

More information? 

DPP34857 

12 

Wild ginger 

Hedychium gardnerianum and Hedychium flavescens 

Don’t let its good looks fool you. Wild ginger threatens to 

smother our native forests. Introduced to New Zealand from 

India in the 1890s, it rapidly spread throughout Auckland, the 

Coromandel and Northland. It is now a problem in parts of the 

top of the South Island, and on the West Coast. 

There are two types of wild ginger. Kahili ginger (Hedychium 

gardnerianum, above) grows up to 2m, has large cream flowers 

with long red stamens, is strongly perfumed and produces up to 

100 seeds per flower head. Of the two types of wild ginger, this 

is the worst, because of its ability to successfully spread by 

seed. The roots also spread outwards to sprout new plants. 

Yellow ginger (Hedychium flavescens) has cream flowers in 

late autumn/early winter but doesn’t set seed or multiply as 

fast as Kahili ginger. Make its removal a second priority. 

Both wild gingers produce massive branching rhizomes. 

These horizontal underground stems produce new buds and 

form a dense layer up to a metre thick, which invades forest 

remnants and which other plants cannot penetrate. Extremely 

shade-tolerant, wild ginger tolerates most soil types and is 

drought and frost-tolerant once established. The dense rhizome 

beds replace all other species and are shallow rooted, so when 

they become heavy with rain they can slip on steep sites and 

streambanks, causing erosion. 


Pull out small seedlings by hand. Isolated plants can be grubbed 

out, but you must get all the rhizomes. The stalks and roots are 

hard to burn and should not be composted. Take them to your 

council dump or transfer station. If in doubt, check with your 

council. Spray with Amitrole, Escort, Roundup or McGregor’s 

Weed Out General Purpose spray from spring to late autumn. 

Spray lightly on the leaves and roots. Do not remove the leaves 

or stalks until they have gone brown and dried out. This takes up 

to four months. For larger plants, the cut-stump method can be 

used. Cut the plant close to the ground with a straight, flat cut. 

The cut must be horizontal so the herbicide will stay on the cut 

area and be absorbed. Apply any of the above herbicides or 

Vigilant gel immediately, as the sap ceases to flow once the 

tissues are severed. This method uses less spray and reduces 

the risk to non-target plants. 

13 14 15 

Wandering Jew 

Tradescantia fl uminensis 

Named for John Tradescant – gardener to 

King Charles I – this South American nasty 

produces no fruit or seed in New Zealand, 

but that doesn’t hold it back a bit. It creeps 

and rapidly forms dense mats from even 

the tiniest fragments and is also very 

tolerant to dense shade. It has dark green, 

shiny, oval leaves with pointed tips and 

white fl owers in summer. Wandering jew, 

also known as wandering willie, smothers 

bare ground, preventing the seedlings of 

native species from establishing. 


In small spots simply rake, roll up, burn and 

dispose of at your local refuse transfer 

station. But be very careful as any dropped 

fragments will simply spread infestation. 

Usually a follow-up spray is needed. Use a 

triclopyr-based spray (Grazon, Victory or 

Brush Off) or a glyphosate spray such as 

Roundup. Spray raked-up piles of the plant 

to ensure you fi nish them off. Spray in spring 

when dry. The paint-roller technique is also 

effective: put a capful of Vigilant gel in a 

roller tray and use a paint roller to apply 

over the weed (a capful covers 1-sqm.) 

Chilean fl ame creeper 

Tropaeolum speciosum 

This climbing perennial, often found in the 

high canopy in the bush, is a banned beauty. 

Related to the common nasturtium, it has 

a thick rootstock and slender stems with 

curling tendrils and watery sap. The dull, 

soft, light green leaves have fi ve leafl ets. 

The solitary, tubular, scarlet fl owers have 

fi ve irregular petals with the bottom three 

having a very slender claw. Flowers appear 

from November to April followed by a thin, 

fl eshy, deep blue seed capsule made up of 

three round parts. Birds spread the seed. 

The Chilean fl ame creeper climbs up into 

native bush canopy, alters light levels and 

prevents the establishment of regenerating 

native species. 


If you have it growing in your garden, 

admire it for the last time, then pull this 

pest plant out and dispose of the vines. 

Check every few months for new seedlings. 

No fully effective herbicide treatment is 

known, however you could try cutting it back 

in spring and summer and coating the base 

with Roundup, Escort, Tordon Brushkiller or 

McGregor’s Weed Out General Purpose. 

16fern, 

this ground-dwelling or epiphytic fern 

Tuber ladder fern 

Nephrolepis cordifolia 

Also known as the sword fern and Boston 

grows to 1m tall with small, erect, scaly 

rhizomes producing many long runners and 

hundreds of round, 1cm-3cm, potato-like 

tubers. (The rare native ladder fern – 

Nephrolepis novae-zelandii – is similar, but 

it doesn’t have tubers.) The pesky tuber 

ladder fern spreads by spores, runners and 

Periwinkle 

Vinca major 

This scrambling groundcover has short 

rhizomes and trailing stems that take root 

when they come in contact with the soil. 

The blue fl owers don’t seem to produce 

much seed – this plant spreads through 

rhizome and stem fragments instead. 

Sources of infestation include many old 

homestead gardens, cemeteries, woodlots 

and farms. Periwinkle prevents seedlings of 

native species establishing and opens up 

habitats so that they are more vulnerable 

to weedy vines and grasses. 


Vinca major is extremely diffi cult to kill. For 

very small sites, dig it out and burn. Check 

for regrowth. Mow with your lawnmower’s 

blades set low and then, as it regrows, grub 

out the obvious roots. On other sites that 

are steep or lack access, try smothering it 

with black plastic or weedmat. Or spray 

with a glyphosate-based herbicide 

(Roundup Renew or McGregor’s Weed Out 

General Purpose) and follow up as required 

to eventually win the battle. Periwinkle 

takes a few years to eradicate, so spray 

twice a year, in spring and in autumn. 

tubers to form dense, long-lived patches 

that are often large. It crowds out 

groundcovers, shrubs and other ferns, and 

can contribute to streamside erosion. 


This one’s easy – well, if you don’t mind a 

little hard slog. Pull it out, and burn the 

tubers and runners. If you spray, use Escort 

and leave for three to four months to allow 

the herbicide to translocate to the tubers 

before clearing or replanting. 

17

Pampas Grass 

18 

17 18 19 

Cortaderia selloana 

Also known as cutty grass, Prince-of-Wales 

feathers and – incorrectly – toetoe. Our 

native toetoe species do look similar, 

however the exotic imposter has a number 

of recognisable differences. Its fl uffy fl owers 

are more upright and dense and appear 

from February to June (whereas the native 

species fl owers from September until 

January). Native toetoe leaves also don’t 

snap readily and have distinct secondary 

leaf veins and the dead leaves don’t spiral. 

Pampas grass grows up to 6m tall, produces 

massive amounts of wind-borne seed and 

colonises sprayed, burnt and eroded sites. 


Dig or grub out seedlings or small plants. 

Take a chainsaw to small plants and leave 

to compost or rot down on site. Burn any 

fl owerheads. Chainsawing and slashing can 

be combined with chemical spraying. Spray 

with Gallant, Roundup Renew or Touchdown 

from spring to autumn. Make sure you leave 

the plants in the ground until the roots have 

died off. Do not re-apply herbicide too soon 

after the initial treatment. Wait until the 

plant actively begins growing again. 

20 

Arum Lily 

Zantedeschia aethiopica 

The so-called death lily is a common sight 

in farm paddocks and old homestead 

gardens. This evergreen, clump-forming, 

tuberous plant is long-lived and persists 

under regenerating canopy, forming dense 

patches excluding other vegetation. Arum 

lilies can tolerate damp, windy and coastal 

sites and, once established, they’re also 

drought-resistant. Because arum lilies are 

poisonous, the clumps are left to their 

own devices by stock in grazing areas and 

slowly expand by producing new shoots. 

The seed is spread by dumped vegetation 

and soil movement. 


Mowing gives no control and digging out 

can leave root fragments and small pieces 

of tubers to resprout. So be prepared for 

a physical battle. Slash down the tops and 

leave on site to rot down. Dig out tubers, 

dry and burn or bury deeply. Repeat for any 

regrowth. Cutting down and painting the 

stumps with Escort may also work. Exclude 

all livestock from the area when treating. 

White-veined Italian arum (Arum italicum) 

is similarly weedy. Kill it this way too. 

Blue passion fl ower 

Passifl ora caerulea 

This vigorous, evergreen, high-climbing 

vine has long stems with spiralling tendrils. 

The leaves are very thin. Hanging whitish 

purple fl owers with purple fi laments appear 

from December to April, followed by hanging 

round fruit that ripens to yellow. The large 

masses smother native bush and the blue 

passion fl ower can also strangle host plants 

and stop native seedlings from establishing. 

Old man’s beard 

Clematis vitalba 

Made famous by David Bellamy’s “Old 

man’s beard must go” TV advertisements, 

this deciduous, layering vine can grow up 

to 20m long. It grows rapidly, forming a 

dense, heavy, permanent, tangled mass 

that smothers its host. It produces many 

long-lived seeds that are spread by water 

and wind. It kills all plants to the highest 

canopy and prevents the establishment 

of native plant seedlings. 

HOW DO I KILL IT 

The best method of control is to cut vines 

to ground level or waist level in winter or 

spring. Then spray the regrowth in March 

with Roundup, Escort or McGregor’s 

Weedout General Purpose. For larger 

specimens, chop down and immediately 

apply herbicide (Vigilant gel is especially 

suitable) to the stump. Burn all cutaway 

segments. Old man’s beard will not be 

eradicated in one season. 

For more information 

about weed control, visit 

the informative website 

www.weedbusters.org.nz. 


Pull up the roots and cut off the vines 

above ground or tie their stems together in 

the air to prevent them coming in contact 

with the ground and taking new roots. 

Otherwise cut down and paint the stump 

with Roundup, Escort, Tordon Brushkiller, 

Banvine, Woody Weedkiller or McGregor’s 

Weed Out for Woody and Scrub Weeds. Use 

herbicide only when roots cannot be pulled 

out. The stumps may resprout.

Cover story - NZ Gardener

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?