85 local Brews inside!! - The MARKETING Awards

marketingnwawards.com

85 local Brews inside!! - The MARKETING Awards

Beer BUZZ

WITh KRISTeN RuSSell, WeS SImoNS, PATRIcK

huTchISoN, JANA moSeleY ANd JeSSIcA oRR

by Kendall Jones

and Shannon Borg

In the early 1980s, you could count the number of American microbreweries on two

hands, and two of them were in Washington: Redhook Ale Brewery in Ballard (now

in Woodinville) and Grant’s Brewery Pub in Yakima (now closed). Since that time, a

craft beer revolution has swept across the nation; these days, you can find craft beer

in every city and backwater burg in the country. But a new generation of Northwest

brewers now leads the second wave of the revolution, creating the most refreshing

and satisfying beers in the world, rekindling our international reputation as craft beer

pioneers. From crisp, light, delicately balanced pilsners to robust, rich, chocolaty imperial

stouts, Washington’s 150-plus breweries continue to raise the bar. This month, we

celebrate some of the local breweries and brewers making noise in the craft beer world.

PhoToGRAPhS BY hAYleY YouNG & AdAm ReITANo

85 local

Brews

inside!!

october 2011 seattle 105


New Brew

Masters BuzzwoRthy

local

Breweries

Microbreweries

by official definition, a microbrewery

produces less than 465,000 gallons of

beer per year. Around here, we simply

think of a microbrewery as one of our

local breweries producing delicious beers.

even the largest local microbreweries, such

as redhook in Woodinville, produce a

minuscule amount of beer compared to

the nationally recognized brands. the

smallest microbreweries (often referred to

as nanobreweries) operate out of studiosize

spaces, selling beer one-half gallon at

a time. Some microbreweries produce beer

exclusively for their own pubs. Some beers

that are wildly popular around Seattle,

such as Manny’s Pale Ale, are unknown

in distant lands like Portland, oregon.

While they come in all shapes and sizes,

microbreweries make the good stuff.

Black Raven BRewing

Big, Bold and uncommon

{ r e d m o n d } Step inside the raven’s Nest,

the taproom at black raven brewing

company in redmond, and let the beer

and the ambiance cast their spell. Surrounded

by muted tones and dark, rich

A mellow ambiance and

outstanding brews

command cult-like

devotion at Black Raven

wood, you will soon forget that you are in

a boring redmond business park. Leave

the kids at home: no minors allowed.

order some pizza or pasta, delivered by

nearby Flying Saucer Pizza, and wash it

down with a tamerlane brown Porter or

trickster IPA. black raven was opened in

2009 by robert “beaux” bowman, who

honed his brewing skills at Mac & Jack’s

brewing, the now-defunct Far West Ireland

brewing and a few other local breweries.

black raven immediately needed

to expand because of the instantaneous

popularity of its beers and tasting room.

A new, larger brewery is being planned

for redmond, but the raven’s Nest will

remain at its current location, where there

are plans to add a barrel room as well.

While the regular lineup of beers pleases

the palate, the select beers that black

raven barrel-ages (conditioning the beer

in repurposed wine and whiskey barrels

adds richness and complexity) are especially

popular. In two short years, the brewery

has earned an almost cult-like following.

on occasion, you will find black raven’s

beers on tap at bars around the Seattle

area, but visit the raven’s Nest to enjoy

the full spectrum of what this brewery

offers. Plans to bottle the beer are still

in the works.

hayley young

Co-owner Don Webb (left)

kicks back at Naked City in

Greenwood, named for a

famous film noir

naked city BReweRy

and taphouse

BeeRs of eveRy genRe

{ g r e e n w o o d } Not many people ask,

but the name comes from a 1948 awardwinning

film noir: The Naked City. that

explains the televisions playing classic

movies with the volume turned down.

Ask one of the beer-savvy bartenders to

recommend a beer to go with Gone with

the Wind, or contemplate which sandwich

to pair with Citizen Kane. Most

patrons hardly notice the televisions: the

focus here is on beer and food. Donald

Averill, one of the owners, can often be

found delivering beers to thirsty patrons,

while his business partner, Don Webb,

is most often found manning the brewery.

Named after the movie character

immortalized by Jeff bridges, the big

Lebrewski is a rich and complex imperial

stout beloved by local beer enthusiasts.

Dinner hour attracts its share of young

families while unencumbered grownups

converse late into the evening. In

a neighborhood replete with dive bars,

Naked city is a favorite destination for

Greenwood’s well-heeled imbibers. (Perhaps

it is a first stop on one of those epic

nights out? there is plenty of karaoke

nearby.) Unlike most brewpubs, Naked

city complements its own creations with

beers from other breweries. At least half

of the 24 taps are dedicated to a rotating

selection of thoughtfully selected guest

The SoDo Connection

Something about Seattle’s SoDo district is attracting new breweries. Maybe

it’s the water. More likely, it’s the high availability of the right kind of real

estate at the right kind of price. Also, the proximity to downtown and the easy

freeway access provide a great, centralized location from which a brewery

can deliver its beer. SoDo is home to four young breweries: Emerald City

Beer Company operates its Beer Lab tasting room in the Old Rainier Brewery

building on Airport Way; Epic Ales (page 111) operates out of the K.R. Trigger

Building on First Avenue S; Schooner Exact Brewing (also page 111) is

just south of the Spokane Street Viaduct on First Avenue S; and Two Beers

Brewing (at right) is just off East Marginal Way on Ohio Avenue S.

beers, primarily from the western United

States. Naked city began pouring beer

in 2008, but didn’t start brewing its own

beers (generally only available in-house)

until 2009.

two BeeRs BRewing

unexpected date-night flavoRs

{ g e o r g e t ow n } When you think of datenight

destinations, you probably don’t

think of SoDo, but we think you should.

A trip to the taproom at two beers brewing

is a lovely way to score big points

with your suds-loving sweetheart. If it

is not date night, you can bring the kids

and even the dog. the taproom, which is

106 seattle october 2011 october 2011 seattle 107

hayley young


Two Beers' assistant

brewer Kevin Smith

stands in krausen, a

foamy fermentation

byproduct

actually in the brewery, opened in 2009.

You will find it a block off e Marginal

Way in that part of town where SoDo

transitions into Georgetown. Sidle up to

the bar, share a table with other beer fans

or grab a seat on the west-facing loading

dock, which is a lovely way to enjoy

the late-day sun when Seattle has such

a thing. Wet your whistle with one of

brewmaster Joel Vandenbrink’s creative

masterpieces, such as the evolutionary

IPA, which is often infused with various

fruits. tease your appetite with a bowl of

peanuts and then head to Georgetown for

dinner since you’re in the neighborhood.

Don’t be afraid of SoDo—and don’t be

afraid of beers infused with things like

mango, lemongrass or peach.

fRemont BRewing

family happy houR

{ f r e m o n t } Matt Lincecum needed a

reprieve from his hectic life as an attorney

and set out to refocus his career on

the things that really matter: family

and beer. realizing that the center of

the Universe needed a new brewery, he

opened Fremont brewing company in

2009. roll a few blocks down the street

from the Fremont troll, park the bike

or baby stroller outside the Urban beer

Garden, and enter a bare-bones taproom

that screams, “It’s all about the

beer!” Makeshift tables and benches

fashioned from planks and kegs, along

with semicircular vinyl booths rescued

from the remodel of nearby red Door,

are frequently packed with locals enjoying

the laid-back atmosphere and outstanding

beer. We are particularly fond

of the Interurban IPA, but during the

winter months, look for the Abominable

Winter Ale. the taproom is separated

from the brewery by nothing more than

a line of kegs. toddlers with watchful

parents in tow gaze wide-eyed at the

brewery’s gleaming stainless steel. So

do some of the parents. beer to go and

conversational pints are the sole attraction

at this comfortable neighborhood

gathering spot. You are welcome to bring

dinner with you or order it in from one

of the local pizza places. to avoid standing

in line with beer geeks toting thirsty

growlers, find Fremont’s beer in pubs,

bottle shops and better grocery stores

around Seattle.

ameRican BRewing

hopheads’ delight

{ e d m o n d s } this is not rocket science;

it’s beer. the formula for success is fairly

simple. It begins with a great brewer

making great beer. When owner Neil

Fallon wanted a diversion from his career

as a real estate developer and decided to

open a brewery, his first move was his

best. He hired Skip Madsen (page 119),

one of the Northwest’s most revered

brewers, who built his reputation brewing

exceptionally well-hopped beers for

Oustanding brews and a

laidback vibe make Fremont

Brewing a fave among locals

boundary bay brewing, big time brewery

and Pike brewing. Located across

the street from the Port of edmonds

Marina, the breakaway room—a tasteful

and subdued bar with windows to the

brewery, where fishermen and businessmen

mingle with marine mechanics and

retirees—started brewing beer in January

2011. It’s a bit tricky to find, but

the outstanding beers make it worth the

effort. be sure to try the breakaway IPA,

the hoppy creation of which Madsen

is proudest. A few snacks are available

108 seattle october 2011 october 2011 seattle 109

opposite page: hayley young; this page: adam reitano


tapped

in

geoRgetown BRewing

a singulaR focus on tasty BeeR

In 2002, Roger Bialous and Manny Chao

opened a brewery in Seattle’s Georgetown

neighborhood. Bialous came from

a background in biology and health care

administration, and Chao was a home

brewer who also enjoyed success as a

beer salesman for Mac & Jack’s Brewery.

The two friends approached the craft

beer business with an uncommon strategy.

They did not build a brewpub or a

suite of beers. Instead, they introduced

and marketed one single beer: Manny’s

Pale Ale. It quickly became one of the

most ubiquitous craft beers around

Seattle. For many less-than-hardcore

beer drinkers, this slightly sweet, mildly

bitter, draft-only product is the only

craft beer they will drink. For others,

Manny’s serves as a gateway beer to

the larger world of craft beer. Over the

years, Georgetown has successfully

added other beers to its lineup, such

as Georgetown Porter (formerly known

as 9 lb. Porter) and Lucille IPA. The retail

store, open Monday through Saturday,

is always lively with customers buying

growlers and merchandise. Unlike many

other breweries, Georgetown offers

something more like an all-ages retail

outlet and less like a tasting room or

pub. Look for Manny’s Pale Ale on tap

everywhere and other Georgetown

beers on tap at the area’s better beer

Elysian’s flagship pub

on Capitol Hill

What’s new

with the established

microbrewers?

bars. When tourists visit Seattle, they

must see the Space Needle and Pike

Place Market. When your beer-loving

cousin comes to town, he must drink

Manny’s Pale Ale and visit Georgetown

Brewing.

elysian

local sensiBilities on the national stage

The three locations of Elysian’s brewpubs

are unique unto themselves.

Enjoy some of the city’s most colorful

and entertaining people watching at

Elysian Brewing Company’s flagship

pub on Capitol Hill. At Elysian’s spot

across the parking lot from CenturyLink

Field, thirsty fans lubricate their vocal

chords before the game. In a peaceful

neighborhood between Green Lake

and Wallingford, locals relax quietly at

Elysian-Tangletown, which offers a more

family-friendly neighborhood pub experience.

Since opening in 1996, Elysian’s

popularity, reputation and production

volume have all grown steadily. Elysian

cofounder, co-owner and brewmas-

At Georgetown, it's

less a pub than a retail

store for beloved

Manny's Pale Ale

ter Dick Cantwell (page 119) is one of

America’s rock star brewers, brewing

straightforward favorites like The Wise

ESB as well as eyebrow-raising creations

like Avatar Jasmine IPA. With the recent

opening of a new production-only brewery

in Georgetown, Elysian now stands

poised to become the next big thing

from Seattle. In the face of impending

stardom, the brewery remains true to

its Seattle roots and will stay focused

on brewing great beer. When it hits

the big time on the national stage, it

will be more Sub Pop Records and less

American Idol.

Big time BReweRy

and alehouse

Back to school

Sit at the bar, listen to the conversations

around you and imagine you had

actually stayed in school just a few more

years to pursue that graduate degree.

While the frat boys shotgun beers somewhere

else, the faculty and grad stu-

top: hayley young; bottom adam reitano

dents gather around oversized library

tables to savor delicious beers at Big

Time Brewery and Alehouse on University

Avenue, where kids of all ages

are welcome before 8 p.m. Since Big

Time’s opening in 1988 as Seattle’s first

brewpub, the timeless cycle of matriculation

and commencement provides

Big Time with a dynamic crowd that

includes a group of neighborhood regulars.

In the face of constant change,

there is tradition at Big Time. Adhering

to time-honored recipes, Coal Creek

Porter and Bhagwan’s Best IPA forever

amaze new generations. Occasionally,

these beers make it outside of the pub’s

hallowed walls to a handful of other

establishments. Drew Cluley (page 119),

who took over as head brewer in June,

continues a tradition of excellence and

innovation, mixing a rock-solid lineup

of regular beers with inspired, creative

offerings. At last count, Big Time’s

recipe book featured an impressive

83 specialty brews.

elliott Bay BRewhouse

& puB

BoosteR seats and oRganic BeeRs

Since 1997 the Elliott Bay Brewhouse &

Pub has been a fixture in West Seattle.

It is so embraced by the locals that

it is simply known as “the pub.” It’s

the kind of place where the servers

know you and your kids by name. Any

night of the week, expect a line at

the door as families wait for dinner

tables. At Elliott Bay’s Burien location,

which opened in 2007, expect a similar

scene. All indications are that when

the company opens its third location

in Lake City this winter, the trend will

continue. In addition to top-notch pub

grub, the beer is flawless. While the

kids nibble on hamburgers made with

local, all-natural beef, parents savor

organic ales, such as Alembic Pale Ale

and No Doubt Stout. Elliott Bay is the

first and only brewery in King County

to earn USDA-certified Organic status.

Does that make the beer taste better?

Visit one of the pubs—or a handful of

local alehouses—to find out.

on site, and a nearby pizza joint delivers

right to your table. Lunch pails and

picnics are welcome; minors are not.

American brewing’s beers are distributed

to bars around the Seattle area. A limited

number of bottles make it out to local

bottle shops and to the QFc stores in

bothell and everett.

schooneR exact BRewing

oveRachieveR that plays well with otheRs

{ s o d o } Imagine your kindergarten

teacher and your high school chemistry

teacher running off and starting a brewery.

Meet Matt and Heather Mcclung,

owners of Schooner exact brewing. In

2007, the couple started one of Washington’s

first nanobreweries—very small

breweries typically operated on a parttime

basis. they brewed in their spare

time and delivered beer to local accounts,

such as West 5 and the beveridge Place

Pub in West Seattle, from the backseat

of their Subaru. In 2010, the couple

quit their teaching jobs and went pro.

Schooner exact’s rise defines nanobrewery

success: the ever-expanding brewery in

SoDo, which now boasts eight full-time

employees, is one of the most popular in

the Seattle area. At the taproom, you will

find tasters, pints, growlers and a lively

after-work crowd sipping sharply hopped

3-Grid IPA and rich, savory Profanity Hill

Porter. their beer is also at pubs, bottle

shops and grocery stores around Seattle.

At local beer festivals, Matt now encounters

former students who still call him Mr.

Mcclung. Heather puts her kindergarten

teaching skills to good use as president of

the Washington brewers Guild.

Former nanobrewery

Schooner Exact in

Sodo has grown up

and gone pro

Nanobreweries

these diminutive brewing ventures represent

an increasingly common type of

microbrewery that is especially popular

around Seattle, where locals value handson

artisan beers over flashy, big-budget

brews. there are currently more than

a dozen nanobreweries in Washington.

typically, the owner/brewer still works

a day job. While there is variation from

one to the next, most nanobreweries produce

one keg at a time, once or twice

per week. Small scale enables creativity

and experimentation. Some operate

out of homes; others, out of commercial

spaces. Some are a first step toward a

larger brewery and a new career. Some are

purely a labor of love. but the common

thread between them all is a longing to

share their beer.

epic ales

the foodie’s BRew

{ s o d o } What is your favorite beer-andfood

pairing? Most beer lovers mention

something obvious like amber ale with

pizza, but not cody Morris. His favorite

pairing is a rustic saison beer served with

an equally rustic goat cheese. by day,

he is a cheesemonger for Whole Foods,

but by night, Morris is epic’s creative

and daring nanobrewer, quickly earning

a reputation for his use of unexpected

ingredients and producing beers that

are larger than life. one of the beers,

beatrice, includes Szechuan peppercorns

and cinnamon, while the mushroom

110 seattle october 2011 october 2011 seattle 111

hayley young


Braving the shed

in Bothell to get

to Foggy Noggin's

Bit O'Beaver

stout (called Project one) is brewed

using shiitake mushrooms. Imaginative

but balanced, the beers never lose sight

of the fact that they are beer. epic’s beers

are available at the brewery’s tasting

room and at local bottle shops. the

brewery is small, but the chatter is enormous,

and epic now teeters on the brink

of becoming too big to be a nanobrewery.

Its newly expanded space, slated

to open this month, includes room for

a “gastropod”: the nano version of a

gastropub (not to be confused with the

class of mollusk). the small kitchen

will soon produce small plates designed

to pair with the beers. to ensure the

food is on par with the beer, Morris is

teaming up with the well-traveled chef

travis Kukull, who has worked at restaurants

in brooklyn, Maui, and more

recently, at Seattle’s tilikum Place cafe,

elemental and Solo bar.

noRthwest peaks BReweRy

the BeeR of the month cluB BeeR

{ b a l l a r d } Kevin Klein is a mountaineer

by hobby, a molecular biologist by trade

and now the owner of a nanobrewery.

Northwest Peaks brewery invites the

public to support its efforts by enjoying

Cody Morris pioneers

beer and food infusions

at Epic Ales in SoDo

brewery-fresh beer by subscription. based

on the community-supported agriculture

model, members of the Mountainbeers

club prepay for a certain number of

growlers over a period of time. Lay down

your money, and the fresh beer is waiting

for you at the brewery in ballard as soon

as it is ready. on occasion, a keg finds its

way to the Naked city brewery and taphouse

(page 107). try the redoubt red,

a smooth, copper-colored ale sporting

a firm and rich malty backbone. While

his friends are sad he no longer serves

beer from the “kegerator” in his basement,

they are happy Klein stepped up

his game and found a larger audience to

appreciate his beer.

foggy noggin BReweRy

the BackyaRd BReweR

{ b o t h e l l } In 1992, Jim Jamison’s wife

bought him a home-brew kit as a gift.

Now, nearly 20 years later, there’s a brewery

in his Snohomish county back yard.

Housed inside a shed in a quiet neighborhood

is the home of Foggy Noggin brewing.

Where most suburbanites keep the

lawnmower, Jamison brews traditional

english-style ales, which are available

on site and at select eastside pubs, such

as the Malt & Vine in redmond. We

recommend the bit o’beaver english

bitter. Keep an eye on Facebook to find

out when you can visit the Foggy Noggin

taproom, which most people would refer

to as Jamison’s garage. obey the speed

limit, leave driveways unblocked, and

the neighbors will not mind you visiting

this nanobrewery. And yes, it is all

perfectly legal.

top: adam reitano; bottom: amand wilson

Beer, ales, lagers.

washington Beer Blog’s

kendall Jones breaks

it all down for you

112 seattle october 2011 october 2011 seattle 113

hayley young

Best Brews

Washington brewers produce a wide variety of delicious beers

that span virtually all beer styles. Our favorite picks are from

the styles that are most common around here and represent

a range of beers—light, heavy, low alcohol, high alcohol, etc.

For your drinking pleasure, we provide two or three suggested

beers: one that is common, one that is less common, and one

that is an exceptional representation of the style.

*

Beer

101

All beer is essentially the

same. it is brewed using

grains, hops and yeast. The

brewer steeps grains, typically

malted barley, in hot water until

proteins convert to sugars. The

resulting sugar water is boiled as

other ingredients, typically hops,

are added for seasoning. The

brewer then cools the resulting

concoction, referred to as wort,

and adds the yeast, which converts

the sugars to alcohol (fermentation).

The amount and type

of grain, the variety and amount

of hops, and the type of yeast the

brewer uses create a beer’s flavor

profile, appearance and alcohol

content. All beer is in the same

family, but the family tree forks,

dividing beer into two major categories:

ales and lagers. There is

a rudimentary difference between

ale yeast and lager yeast. Ale

yeast ferments faster and at

higher temperatures. Lager yeast

ferments slower and at lower

temperatures. Each type of fermentation

imparts certain characteristics

to the beer. Ales tend to

be heavy and robust, while lagers

tend to be light and crisp.

ales

pale ale

Based on a traditional English

style, a style of ale that has

been commonly brewed in

Britain for more than 100 years,

pale ale describes a broad

spectrum of beers that can be

sweet or dry, bitter or floral,

or any combination of those

characteristics. Pale ales range

from 5.0 to 6.0 percent alcohol

content and are usually dark

gold or copper colored.

Expect to find: MAnny’S PALE

ALE, GEORGETOWn BREWinG

Crisp, clean and smooth,

with a hint of citrus and a

snappy hop finish

Take it up a notch: DiCK’S

PALE ALE, DiCK’S BREWinG A

mild, lightly hopped ale with a

touch of residual sweetness

Impress your bartender: Uni-

VERSALE PALE ALE,

FREMOnT BREWinG

A hop-centered pale ale with

herbal qualities and a dry,

drinkable finish

ipa

According to legend, brewers in late-18th-century England created a beer specifically

to endure the long and tumultuous voyage to India, increasing the alcohol

and hop content to help preserve the beer. Modern IPA is strong (6.5 to 7.5 percent

alcohol content) and very aggressively hopped, but otherwise has nothing to

do with the legend. There is wide variation within this very popular beer style.

Expect to find: BOUnDARy BAy iPA, BOUnDARy BAy BREWinG Balanced floral

aromas and citrus overtones

Take it up a notch: BREAKAWAy iPA, AMERiCAn BREWinG A malty IPA with

plenty of dry hopped flavor to balance the sweetness

Impress your bartender: TRiCKSTER iPA, BLACK RAVEn BREWinG A light fruit,

citrus and piney hop aroma with a full hop flavor


porter

Don’t be afraid of the dark. Porter is

a dark, rich and flavorful style of ale

that is generally not as strong as it

looks. The alcohol content is typically

between 5.5 and 6 percent, putting

it on par with many beers sporting a

much lighter appearance. The use of

darker grains, such as roasted barley

and chocolate malt, lend porter its

intimidating hue.

Expect to find: PROFAniTy HiLL

PORTER, SCHOOnER ExACT BREWinG

Flavors of chocolate and walnuts,

along with subtle fruity notes and a

hint of cherry

Take it up a notch: PACEMAKER

PORTER, FLyERS BREWinG A robust

porter with notes of roasted barley, coffee

and bittersweet chocolate

Impress your bartender: COAL CREEK

PORTER, BiG TiME BREWinG A light,

malty porter with a slight sweetness

and a higher alcohol content (6

percent)

hefeweizen

Most beers are brewed using malted

barley exclusively, but hefeweizen

is brewed using malted wheat. This

traditional German-style beer is typically

lighter bodied, 4.5 to 5.5 percent

alcohol, appears cloudy and features

refreshing citrus notes that many

people enhance with a lemon wedge.

Expect to find: HAySTACK HEFEWEizEn,

SnOqUALMiE FALLS BREWinG

Citrus and spicy notes with a clean,

mellow flavor

Take it up a notch: HiGH-FiVE HEFE,

iROn HORSE BREWinG Clove and

banana notes with a hint of orange

citrus and ginger

Impress your bartender: ALPinE HEFE-

WEizEn, ALPinE BREWinG Brewed

by German brewmaster Bart Traubeck,

this authentic Bavarian-style hefe has

flavors of bananas and cloves

stout

Stouts are not for the faint of heart.

These very dark beers are rich, complex,

bitter and strong. The alcohol

content is usually above 7.0 percent.

Many people think of Guinness when

they think of stout, but American stout

is much more robust and intense.

Expect to find: PiKE xxxxx STOUT,

PiKE BREWinG COMPAny

Chocolate, licorice and espresso are

present along with a velvety texture in

this full-bodied stout

Take it up a notch: DRAGOnSTOOTH

STOUT, ELySiAn BREWinG

Smooth with dark chocolate and coffee

notes; satisfying without being heavy

Impress your bartender: BiG LEB-

REWSKi iMPERiAL STOUT, nAKED CiTy

BREWinG Imperial cream stout aged on

Kahlúa-soaked oak. Big, creamy flavor

with chocolate and coffee overtones

esB

Extra special bitter is an English-style

ale with a bit of extra hops for a nice

bitterness, as opposed to the maltier

porter or mild ales. This ale usually has

an alcohol level of about 4.8 percent by

volume or higher.

Expect to find: ESB, REDHOOK A

traditional medium-bodied British extra

special bitter with a red apple fruitiness

and good floral hop finish

Take it up a notch: BEST BiTTER,

BOUnDARy BAy Clean and fresh with

a balance of moderate hop character

against a rich, smooth maltiness

Impress your bartender: THE WiSE,

ELySiAn Well balanced with caramel,

honey and citrus against a strong malt

backbone

hayley young

choose your

Brew

you’ve read our experts’ opinions

on the best beers in town.

But perhaps you’d rather go with

the flow when choosing

a brew. Here’s a handy chart.

By Krißten Rußßell

114 seattle october 2011 october 2011 seattle 115

Are you

under 40?

yes

Prime

Time

Pale Ale

Are you in a

fraternity?

woot!

Buttface

Amber Ale

Humboldt

Brown

Hemp Ale

Designated

driver?

yes

India

Session Ale

no

no

yes

Are you

paying in

change?

no

Homesick for

Portland?

yes

Henry

Weinhard's

Private

Reserve

is your

clothing made

from locallysourced

organic soy

fiber?

Breakaway

IPA

Are you

wearing a

Utilikilt?

yes

no

yes

yes

yes

Ave Rat

Malt

Liquor

Doing the

ironic hipster

thing?

no

Do you tweet

more than 10

times a day?

no

Sporting a

spare tire?

no

Ride your bike

to Hempfest?

no

Does

Battlestar

galactica

totally rule?

negatory

One eye

on your

Kickstarter

account?

Kilt Lifter

Scotch Ale

frack, yes! no

yo! yEP

yes

Rainier

Put a

Bird on It

IPA

Fat

Scotch

Ale

is it in your

front yard?

Universale

Pale Ale

Ever use

"incentivized"

in a

sentence?

affirmative

Lazy

Boy IPA


amber ale

These beers are typically low in alcohol

(4 to 5 percent) and reddish in color.

Amber ales are usually mild, smooth

and malt-forward offering little hop

bitterness. These beers are a favorite

choice of chefs looking to create beerand-food

pairings because they are

flavorful but not overpowering.

Expect to find: AFRiCAn AMBER, MAC

& JACK’S BREWinG Floral, hoppy taste

is followed by a malty middle. Finishes

with an unfiltered organic hop flavor

Take it up a notch: SCUTTLEBUTT

AMBER ALE, SCUTTLEBUTT BREWinG

Medium bodied with a caramel flavor

and herbal hop finish

Impress your bartender: LAzy BOy

AMBER, LAzy BOy BREWinG

Subtle sweetness and slight biscuit

notes with a light floral aroma

winter Beer

When the days get short, strong ale can

warm you from the inside out. There is

wild variation in winter beers, but by

definition, they are all brewed exclusively

for the winter months. Most

winter beers are spiced with ginger,

clove, nutmeg or cinnamon; they

are rich in flavor and high in alcohol

(6.0–9.0 percent).

Expect to find: JOLLy ROGER

CHRiSTMAS ALE, MARiTiME PACiFiC

BREWinG An English strong ale with

rich malt character, a blend of hops and

a flavorful yet smooth finish

Take it up a notch: ABOMinABLE Win-

TER ALE, FREMOnT BREWinG Dark,

roasty, chocolaty, malt flavors balanced

by hop aroma and subtle hoppy spice

Impress your bartender: HOPPy THE

WOODSMAn, SCHOOnER ExACT

BREWinG A bourbon-barrel-aged beer

and a malty winter warmer with roasted

oak and bourbon flavors

lageRs

Lagers are different than ales because

of the way they are brewed (see page

113). Within the category of lager, there

are dozens of different styles, ranging

from very light beers like pilsner

to darker beers like bock. The beers

that you see advertised during football

games are all lagers; however, the lagers

our local breweries produce have very

little in common with those brewed by

the huge, nationally recognized brands.

The big-box lagers are brewed in

extremely large batches using adjuncts

and fillers, while our locally brewed

lagers rely on pure, natural ingredients

and are brewed on a much smaller

scale. Our favorite local lagers:

CHUCKAnUT KOLSCH, CHUCKAnUT

BREWERy Gentle and slightly fruity;

wild hops add an accent to this easy

drinker

ALPinE MARzEn, ALPinE BREWinG

A faint hop aroma complements the

slightly sweet flavor and the rounded

finish

ROGER’S PiLSnER, GEORGETOWn

BREWinG A refreshing pilsner with a

spicy, earthy hop aroma

DOTTiE SEATTLE LAGER, EMERALD

CiTy BEER COMPAny A crisp, refreshing

and biscuit-y amber lager, balanced

with spice

Belgian-style

Belgian-style beers, which, by definition,

imitate a broad array of traditional

styles brewed in Belgium, have become

increasingly popular around Seattle in

recent years as our collective beer palate

has grown more sophisticated and

learned to enjoy more intense flavor

profiles. Some Belgian-style beers

are lagers, but our favorites are ales.

There is no single descriptor to define

Belgian-style beers except to say that

they provide brewers with a lot of room

for creativity. Our favorite Belgian-style

beers range from dry to sweet, from

sour to bitter, and from light to dark.

TRiPLE 7 BELGiAn-STyLE ALE,

SCUTTLEBUTT BREWinG Tart clove

and banana flavor is complemented by

a high alcohol content that creates a

warming sensation

DOUBLE EnTEnDRE ABBEy-STyLE

ALE, SOUnD BREWinG Chocolate malt

and dark toffee with a hint of banana

and stone fruit

CROOKED WiT BELGiAn-STyLE WiT

ALE, TWO BEERS BREWinG Spicy,

sweet and bitter with orange peel and

coriander notes

HOP VOn BOORiAn BELGiAn-STyLE

iPA, ELLiOTT BAy BREWinG Strongly

bitter Belgian IPA with a slightly sour

finish

hayley young

can-do BRews

At first glance, it seems retro:

high-end local craft beers

packaged in cans. But to Travis

Guterson of Gig Harbor's 7 Seas

Brewing (page 120), canning

beer is a natural. For one thing,

cans offer extra protection

against beer-skunking ultraviolet

light. For another, cans are

easier on the environment. “it’s

much cheaper to turn recycled

aluminum into cans than it is to

turn recycled glass into bottles,”

says Guterson, a Bainbridge

island native. “We are a distinctly

northwest brewery that uses

malts and hops from Washington

and Oregon. We thought that

the cans were inherently cool

and a good representation of

our style.” Two of 7 Seas' beers

are available in cans: Ballz Deep

Double iPA and British Pale Ale.

Canning isn’t without challenges,

admits Guterson. “you

have to overcome a lot of logistics."

Still, canning appears to be

catching on. Seattle’s Two Beers

Brewing offers three brews in

cans, and Big E Ales and Fremont

Ales have plans to begin canning

soon. Still, Guterson says, canning

still gets a bad rap, thanks

to the common belief that cans

impart a metal flavor Guterson

says it doesn't. "We want everyone

to know that you can get the

same quality, shelf life and taste

from a can that you can from a

bottle." w.s.

strange Brews

Walk on the wilder side with our picks for

several distinctive, less-common styles to

complete your beer bucket list by wES SImonS

Barley wine: Named so

because it has an alcohol content

similar to wine (around 8–12

percent), barley wine falls into

the beer category because it is

made with barley, not grapes.

Most barley wines feature strong

fruit and alcohol notes with

toffee flavors and hoppiness,

although they differ greatly from

the palette presented by an IPA.

Barley wines are a big-tasting

beer traditionally only offered in

winter. Try: Ten Squared, Fish

Brewing Company, Olympia

session Beer: There are no formal

parameters that describe a session ale, but

it's generally moderate to low in alcohol,

around or below 5 percent by volume,

and that it has a clean and crisp finish.

The name comes from England, where a

“session” refers to an evening-long conversation

at the pub for which people want

to be able to drink all night long without

getting inebriated. Try: Baron Pilsner,

Baron Brewing, Seattle or India Session

Ale, Two Beers Brewing, Seattle

cask ale: Any beer can be cask conditioned.

In producing this style, the brewer

moves the nearly completed beer into the

keg without carbonating or filtering. Any

carbonation, which is typically very low,

is naturally occurring. Cask-conditioned

beers, often referred to as cask ale or real

ale, are typically served at room temperature.

To give the beer more character, local

craft brewers often add special ingredients

to the keg (the cask), such as additional

hops, spices, citrus rinds and even chili

peppers. Many local beer bars and brewpubs

have regular cask nights, where they

feature a particular beer—whatever the

brewer makes available—served in this

manner. Try: Big Time Brewery taps a

cask every Friday afternoon (beers vary),

and the beer flows until it is gone.

sour Beer: Sour beers date back hundreds

of years, when naturally occurring

airborne yeast was used to ferment beer.

Because brewing was primitive, occasionally

things would go wrong—sometimes in

a good way. Eventually, brewers learned

to harness the yeasts that made beer go

sour. Today, sour beers make use of special

yeasts and enzymes that impart a

noticeably sour flavor to the beer. Try:

Naked City Cherry Pi, Naked City Brewing,

Seattle or Sourlicious Sour Berry Ale, Big

Al Brewing, Seattle

Barrel aged: A beer that is allowed

to condition in a barrel draws complexities

from whatever was previously stored

in the barrel. For instance, conditioning

a beer in a bourbon barrel will give the

beverage a warm alcoholic flavor. Using

a wine barrel will give the beer a fruity

taste. Barrel-aged beers are typically bigger,

higher-alcohol beers and are available

on a seasonal or limited basis only.

Often, barrel-aged beers are one-offs that

may never be duplicated. Try: Pike Entire

Wood-Aged Stout, Pike Brewing Company,

Seattle or Bourbon Barrel Abominable,

Fremont Brewing, Seattle (released annually

in the winter)

116 seattle october 2011 october 2011 seattle 117

hayley young


The Pioneers

THE ORIGINAL PIKE BREWING CROWD

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Brewer KEvIN FORHAN is now head brewer at The Ram at Northgate; Brewer DREW CLULEy is now

at Big Time in the University District; Brewer SKIP MADSEN is now at American Brewing in Edmonds; JASON PARKER (original head brewer),

now working for the Gates Foundation and opening Derby’s distillery; DICK CANTWELL also a brewer, started Elysian Brewery in 1996;

BILL JENKINS, brewer and “spiritual leader,” is now head brewer at Elliott Bay Brewing in Lake City;

AT LEFT: A visionary in the world of beer, CHARLES FINKEL brought

together a motley crew of young brewers in 1989 who would collectively

change the world of brewing. in his miniscule brewery under Pike Place

Market, Finkel’s artisan brewers experimented with new styles, yeasts and

hops to produce a lineup of the best of traditional styles, such as Pike

xxxxx Extra Stout as well as new favorites, such as Monk’s Uncle Tripel

Ale. Along with his wife, ROSE ANNE, in the early days, Finkel employed

a slew of brewers, many of whom have gone on to brew at other places.

Most are shown here with the exception of brewer Fal Allen (see page

128), now head brewer at Anderson Valley Brewing in Boonville, California.

pHotogrApHS by DAniEl CArillo

118 seattle october 2011 october 2011 seattle 119


the RevolutionaRies

BREAKinG BREW RULES AnD BLAzinG nEW TRAiLS

TRAvIS GUTERSON (LEFT): Cofounding 7 Seas Brewing in Gig Harbor in

2008 at the ripe old age of 24, Guterson rocked the beer world when he

broke with tradition and became the first Washington craft brewer to put

his beer into aluminum cans (see page 117). in fact, Guterson walks a fine

line between tradition and innovation, creating English-style ales that are

uniquely his own. His sensibilities lie somewhere between tweed jackets

and body piercings, and if the name rings a bell, it could be because his

father is David Guterson, the celebrated Bainbridge island author of the

best-seller snow falling on cedars. ROBERT “BEAUx” BOWMAN: Walk to

the front of the longest line at any brewfest and you might find Bowman

there, serving up his cult-beloved Black Raven Brewing beers (page 117). His

beers are not just big and uncommon; they are challenging, contemplative

and sometimes even confusing. Some of Bowman’s most popular

creations are aged to perfection in whiskey barrels. Grizzled brewmasters

wonder how he is doing it; aspiring young brewers just want to be him.

120 seattle october 2011 october 2011 seattle 121

opposite and this page: hayley young

LEFT TO RIGHT: PILSNER GLASS, DIRECTION 17-OUNCE PILSNER GLASS, $9.95; HEFEWEIzEN GLASS, 22-OUNCE

PORTLAND BEER GLASS, $3.95; BELGIAN GLASS, BRUGES 16-OUNCE BEER GLASS, $6.95; AMERICAN PINT GLASS,

BIGGS GLASSES, $3.95;. ALL GLASSWARE FROM CRATE & BARREL, UNIVERSITy VILLAGE.

BaRwaRe

Raising the Glass

Just as with wine, beer purists know it’s not just what you

pour, it’s also what you pour into that matters. Gary Sink,

of West Seattle’s Beveridge Place Pub, shows us how the

proper glass brings out the best in beer Jana Moseley

pilsner glass

HISTORy: For

enjoying pilsners and

fruity or bubblier beers

THE PHySICS: The tall,

narrow shape enhances

the clarity and maintains

the beer’s effervescence.

BARTENDER’S

TIP: These glasses

usually have a pour line

to allow space for a

good amount of head.

hefeweizen glass HISTORy: Traditional hefe glasses are

similar to a pilsner glass but thicker and less flared. THE PHyS-

ICS: The larger bulb at the top allows for more head space, which

helps the drinker enjoy the banana and clove aromas. BAR-

TENDER’S TIP: Forget the lemon! If you’re drinking a traditional

Bavarian hefeweizen, you’ll already get the fruit taste. Drinking

an American hefe? They're less fruity, so add the slice.

Belgian glass HISTORy: Used

for all varieties of Belgians and

dark beers—although most Belgian

breweries design a specific glass

for their brew. THE PHySICS: The

chalice-like shape allows aromas

to be released while tasting. Some

are designed to maintain head by

etching the bottom of the glass.

This keeps it bubbling and retains

the head throughout. BAR-

TENDER’S TIP: Serve with a lot of

head—almost half of the glass—so

that you get the aroma while tasting

the maltiness of the beer.

pint glass HISTORy: The most versatile and

widely used glass. The Brits and Germans have

taken it a little further, adding a notch and handle

respectively, making the pint glass easier to hold.

THE PHySICS: Pints can hold a lot of beer and are

easy to handle. BARTENDER’S TIP: Allow for a

good two fingers’ worth of foam.


A Grate Pair

THE LATEST CULinARy DARLinGS? BEER AnD CHEESE

Beer has found its place in the culinary world, with beer

dinners, pairings and other events on restaurant schedules

around town. you’ll even find food in beer (see Epic Ales’

exotic beer and food infusions on page 111). But beer and

cheese? Absolutely, says Warren Peterson, chef and so-called

“beer czar” of Tom Douglas’ new beer-centric Brave Horse

Tavern in South Lake Union. “Beer is food friendly and doesn’t

have the acidity that wine has,” says Peterson. “you can pair

a hoppy beer with something rich, and the hops clean your

palate so you aren’t overwhelmed by fattiness of cheese.” To

get started, Peterson says to start the beer you love. “Come

October, there will be so many seasonal beers, so find something

that looks exciting to you.” Then, go to your favorite

cheese counter (his picks: The Calf & Kid on Capitol Hill and

DeLaurenti in Pike Place Market). Pair flavors that are either

similar in flavor or vastly different. And have fun. “Talk to the

people behind the counter and bounce some ideas around.”

BeeR + food

BeeR &

cheese

101

GOAT CHEESE: Pair this mild cheese with something

that isn’t too big, like a lager or even a porter, since

those beers are dark and rich but not really intense.

BLUE CHEESE: Its intense flavor can stand up to

bigger beers like an IPA or a big stout with character.

GOUDA: This nutty, caramelly and butterscotch-y

cheese pairs well with beers that mimic the flavor, like

brown ale or nut ale.

FARM-STyLE ENGLISH CHEDDAR: Amber ale,

brown ale, IPA—this cheese is easy to pair with beer.

waRRen peteRson's paiRing picks

cheese

Tumalo Farms’ (Bend,

Oregon) Pondhopper, an

aged goat cheese made

with an Oregon pale

ale, from The Calf & Kid;

$28.95/pound

Oregon’s Willamette

Valley Cheese Company’s

Boerenkaas Gouda-style

cow’s milk cheese aged

five months from The Calf

& Kid; $26.95/pound

Dutchman’s Fat, a moldripened

chèvre from

Juniper Grove Farms

in Redmond, Oregon.

Available at The Calf & Kid;

$27.95/pound

Willapa Hills’ Two-Faced

Blue sheep and cow’s milk

cheese, made in Doty,

Washington; from The Calf

& Kid; $32.95/pound

Mt. Townsend Creamery

(Port Townsend,

Washington) Off Kilter

cow’s milk cheese with

rind washed in Pike

Brewing Kilt Lifter Scotchstyle

ale, from DeLaurenti;

$14.99/pound

BeeR

White Center’s Big Al

Brewing Brougham Bitter

(available by the growler)

Elliott Bay Brewing

Company’s B. Town

Brown, available

in growlers at the West

Seattle and Burien

locations

Maritime Pacific dry

hopped Old Seattle

Lager, available by the

growler at its Ballard

brewpub

Georgetown Brewing

Company’s porter

available by the growler in

its Georgetown brewery

White Pike Brewing’s Kilt

Lifter or Big Al Brewing

Brougham Bitter (both

available by the growler)

the calf & kid: capitol Hill, melrose market, 1531 melrose avenue;

206.467.5447; Delaurenti: Pike Place market, 1435 1st ave.; 206.622.0141

Beer + Chocolate!

Chocolate and wine have always made a pretty couple—

but maybe you’re not a fan of the grape. Check out Theo

Chocolate's “Chocolate & Beer pairing kit." The kit includes

a selection of 2- and 3-ounce Theo bars, along with recommendations

for which style of beer best complements

each, so you can easily assemble a tasting. The $24 kit

provides enough chocolate for six to 10 people; beer is not

included. theochocolate.com Jessica orr

beerfloats

A heavenly blend

of your two favorite

indulgences is the

latest grown-up

treat around town

Pike's perfect

pairing: A scoop

of vanilla afloat in

Extra Stout

ROOT BEER FLOATS might remind

you of your childhood; now malty,

adult versions of that beloved treat

are suddenly floating all over town.

The Pike Pub (Pike Place market,

1415 first ave.; 206.622.6044; pikebrewing.com) serves its Pike xxxxx

Extra Stout with vanilla or chocolate gelato ($3.50 schooners, $6.50

pints). Elliott Bay Brewhouse and Pub (two locations, including west

seattle, 4720 california ave. sw; 206.932.8695; elliottbaybrewing.

com) makes coffee stout floats (with its no Doubt Stout; $3.95),

so you can get an after-work caffeine buzz and sweet tooth fix in

one nightcap. Bluebird Homemade ice Cream & Tea Room (capitol

Hill, 1205 e Pike st.; 206.588.1079; bluebirdseattle.blogspot.com),

collaborated with neighbor Elysian Brewing Company, floats any of

its ice creams with your choice of Elysian beer ($6). We hope the

soon-to-open Greenwood location will do the same. Full Tilt ice

Cream serves your choice of ice cream with any of its beers on tap (it

recommends darker brews, like stout) at its Columbia City and White

Center locations (white center, 9629 16th ave. sw; 206.767.4811;

columbia city, 5041 rainier ave. s; 206.226.2740; fulltilticecream.com;

not available at the University District location). And Maritime Pacific

Brewing Co. (1111 nw Ballard way; 206.782.6181; maritimebrewery.

com) makes a beer float with Jolly Roger Christmas Ale (served yearround)

and seasonal ice creams, such as vanilla macadamia nut. J.o.

122 seattle october 2011 october 2011 seattle 123

opposite page: hayley young; this page adam reitano


Beer + food

There’s Beer in ThaT?

Local kitchens are brewing up delicacies that use

beer to enhance natural flavors in their foods. You

won’t feel tipsy, because alcohol burns out during

the cooking process, so get ready to experience beer

cooking in its strangest forms. J.O.

Washed: River Valley Ranch’s raw cow’s milk tomme cheese is rindwashed

in Pike Brewing’s Naughty Nellie Ale. You’ll find it at The Calf &

Kid cheese shop on Capitol Hill (1531 Melrose Ave., Suite C2; 206.467.5447;

calfandkid.com); $19.95/pound.

Baked: Cougar Mountain Baking Company makes Double Chocolate

XXXXX Stout cookies with Pike Brewing Company stout, giving the

cookies their rich flavor. They are available this month only, to coincide

with Oktoberfest. You’ll find them at QFC, Whole Foods, Metropolitan

Markets, PCC Natural Markets or Haggen/Top Foods, or buy online at

cmbc.com.

Steamed: Try Pike Pub’s beer-steamed mussels or clams. Pick your mollusk—and

your poison from its list of beers. If sea critters aren’t your

thing, indulge in the mac ’n’ cheese with Scotch ale cheese sauce or the

homemade pretzel with stout mustard.

Creamed: Bluebird Homemade Ice Cream & Tea Room (Capitol Hill, 1205

E Pike St.; 206.588.1079; bluebirdseattle.blogspot.com) befriended nextdoor

neighbors Elysian Brewing Company to create its stout-infused

ice cream. Port Orchard–based Carter’s Chocolates (160 Bethel Ave.;

carterschocolates.com) also makes a beer ice cream, using Pike

Brewing Company’s stout and Kilt Lifter Ale.

124 seattle october 2011

Bluebird's

stout-infused

ice cream

Chocolate! Carter’s Chocolates makes three different

kinds of beer truffles infused with beer from Pike

Brewing Company: organically grown Colombian

dark chocolate with stout; milk chocolate

with Pike’s Kilt Lifter Ale; and a mixture of dark

and milk chocolates infused with Pike’s Tandem

Ale. These treats are available at Pike’s pub and

brewery (see directory) and at The Chocolate Box

(Downtown, 108 Pine St.).

naming

conventions

w e ’ r e b o o k i s h and brewish, so inevitably,

as we sit in a warm pub on a

rainy day drinking a pint of Big Time

Dark Days Black IPA at the Fiddler’s

Inn, the two tendencies collide. For

years, my fellow beer (and word)

lovers have been keeping a list of

the most amusing names for beer.

We’re not interested in the obvious,

the Moose Drools of the world. Our

interests lie elsewhere—in the subtle,

the double entendre, the call and

response. My friends Kevin Forhan

and Bill Jenkins, who have brewed

at the Pike, Big Time, Elysian, Elliott

Bay and other breweries, shared their

lists. by Shannon borg

First, inspired by Old Leghumper

(Thirsty Dog Brewing Company,

Akron, Ohio), there’s the “Old”

or “Olde” category, harking back

to Theakston’s Old Peculier: Old

Wooly (Big Time Brewery) and Old

Bawdy (Pike Brewing Company)...

Then, the Literary Call and Response:

California’s Russian River Brewing’s

much-awarded aged beer Pliny the

Elder (and of course, older than its

Pliny the Younger) was answered by

Jenkins at the Big Time with Whiny

the Complainer, in response to the

oft-heard gripe at beer festivals,

“I’ve waited in line for 45 minutes,

and you ran out!” Jenkins’ Ave Rat

Malt Liquor at the Big Time Brewery,

an attempt to capture the zeitgeist

of the University District, prompted

Forhan, mocked among his peers for

brewing at The Ram at the Northgate

Mall, to produce The Mall Walker.

Finally, not to put too fine a point on

it, Walking Man Brewing seamlessly

combines the two concepts in its

Street Walker Malt Liquor... Then

there’s the Encouraging: Along these

lines, we have Pike Kilt Lifter (Pike

Brewing), 7 Seas Brewing’s Ballz

Deep Double IPA and Skookum

Brewing’s Amber’s Hot Friend...

And conversely, the Discouraging:

Astoria Brewing’s (Astoria, Oregon)

Bitter Bitch IPA might deter. Slip

Point Brewing’s Spicy Fish Wife

(Clallam Bay, Washington) invokes

cringe-worthy connotations. Finally,

there is this one, which is best said

out loud: Athletixa Porter. Jenkins

is holding that one hostage until his

boss goes on vacation.

adam reitano


The Rainier Brewery in

Georgetown (shown here

in 1939) produced the most

popular beer in the Northwest

for decades.

our fermenTed hisTory

The Life and Times

of the Seattle Pint

Or, how a motley crew of local hippies,

brew nerds, aficionados and accidental

chemists forever changed American beer

by Shannon Borg

the story of beer in the Northwest is the story of people—people who love

beer. the dedicated souls who made Seattle a bastion of all things brewed are not only

some of the most passionate about their chosen subject, but also come from different

places, walks of life and generations, bound by their love of one of the oldest and most

diverse beverages on the planet. the explosion in Northwest craft brewing began in

the early to mid-1980s and focused on “Northwest”-style ales—generously hopped and

bold in flavor. but our history with beer dates to well before the craft movement.

In the 19th century, German-style beers—light lagers such as olympia and rainier—

reigned. olympia brewing company in tumwater produced from 1896 until 2003

(first as the capital brewing company). the Schmidt family sold it in 1982, and the

brewery changed hands several times, finally shutting down in 2003.

the rainier brewery was the culmination of the merger and sale of several breweries

at various times in the late 19th century, including claussen-Sweeney brewing com-

126 seattle october 2011

pany, bay View brewery, Seattle Malting

and brewing company, and Sick’s

rainier brewing company. the dates are

foggy, but most accounts set a brewery

on the rainier site in Georgetown beginning

around 1883, producing the most

popular beer in the Northwest for more

than a half-century. eventually, rainier

was sold to Pabst, which closed the Seattle

facility in 1999. Still, the sense of loyalty

and identification with the Northwest

remains; though it was “just rainier,”

it was ours.

that sense of ownership still resonates

with Seattleites, and Seattle brewers old

and young. the old guard waxes rhapsodic;

Kevin Forhan (page 119), one of

the Pike Place brewery’s original brewers

who now brews at the ram at Northgate,

says, “the first big brewery in town is still

the big one we remember—the one you

could smell from the freeway, the one

whose owner’s name was stuck on the old

ballpark. You might know someone who

had an uncle who drove a forklift down

there. It was better than that beer from

a couple of towns away, maybe better

than the big national brands from the

Midwest—sure, there was a difference!

PemCo Webster & stevens ColleCtion, museum of History & industry


Fal Allen, shown

here in 1991, was a

head brewer at Pike's

original location in

the Market

It was named for the local mountain. We

were loyal; it felt like ours.”

Alas, there are no more “Artesians,”

no more “rrrrrraiin-eeeeer beeeeer,”

as we remember from the commercials

during Gunsmoke or The Munsters, but

both Vitamin r and oly live on, still

some of the kings of American-style

lager, being produced in their retro

aluminum cans in california. rainier

has even popping up in the Twilight

movies, securing its place in the current

teen-hipster lexicon.

The new wave

While the big boys of beer catered to the

blue-collar palate, the “Seattle Sound”

of beer exploded in the mid-1980s. the

late english beer writer and historian

Michael Jackson credits Scottish-American

brewer bert Grant with establishing

the Northwest style of a hoppier India

pale ale style. Grant’s brewery Pub was

founded in Yakima in 1982 and is widely

considered to be the first microbrewery

in the Northwest. Grant was known for

his flamboyant ways—roaring around

in a white rolls-royce with “real Ale”

vanity plates, malting (toasting) his own

barley in a skillet on his kitchen stove, and

128 seattle october 2011

downing many a pint at his pub while

dressed in full Scottish regalia, including

kilt and sporran. A huge flirt with ruddy

cheeks, he truly enjoyed the conviviality

of the public house. His pub was in the

old railway station, and he held court at

a table in the middle of the room, into

his 70s. When he died in 2001, we lost

the godfather of Northwest brewing,

and a true bon vivant. the pub closed

in 2005.

but luckily, there were forces already

at work growing the Northwest beer

Seattle’s brewers operate on a sort of informal

apprenticeship model—brewers learn from each

other and then move on to other breweries, leading to

experimentation and the birth of new developments.

scene. In the late 1960s, oklahoman

charles Finkel (page 118), a passionate

young aficionado of all things fermented,

established the country’s first boutique

wine and beer importing company called

bon Vin, and later, Merchant du Vin.

As Finkel tells it, he tasted Ste. Michelle

wine in 1969 (before the company added

the “chateau”), called up the winery

and asked if he could be its distributor.

Finkel then began traveling throughout

the U.K., Germany and belgium to find

beers to import. Samuel Smith’s was one

of his most notable discoveries, and he

worked with the brewery to revive a few

old historical beer styles. Samuel Smith’s

oatmeal Stout became a huge

hit in the states, with a label

that Finkel, also a graphic

designer, created to reflect

the Victorian roots of this

dark, dry stout. Another

beer he encouraged was the

tadcaster old brewery’s “the

Famous taddy” Porter. If you

look closely at that label, you’ll see

a diamond-shaped center not unlike the

current logo for Pike brewing company,

the brewery he opened in 1989, perhaps

best known for its XXXXX Stout, a nod

to the english stouts he loved.

today’s young guns on the current

Seattle scene—black raven, Schooner

exact, epic Ales—owe much to the old

guard of Finkel’s Pike brewing company

(formerly named Pike Place brewery).

Pike wasn’t the first microbrewery in Seattle—redhook

was—but the Finkels had

a vision, and loved Pike Place Market in

all its communal craziness. “We were not

exactly ‘in’ the Market,” Finkel says, “but

‘under’ the Market in the La Salle Hotel

on Western.” the hotel was known for

being a “bawdy house” and the headquarters

of the notorious “Naughty Nellie,”

a madame whose name graces Naughty

Nellie Golden Ale. the Finkels created a

sort of Willie Wonka–style brewery that

ran 24/7, and in 1994, moved the brewery

into its current space on First Avenue. the

brewery runs on steam from the Seattle

Steam co. plant just down the street, and

the Finkels are dedicated to sustainable

brewing practices. In the early days, the

brewery employed a slew of brewers, many

of whom have gone on to brew at other

places (see page 119).

to those in the industry, the early days

of Seattle’s first wave of craft brewing were

exciting on a creative level. brewers were

constantly collaborating and competing

to make the hoppiest IPA, or the best

barley wine, or to find a new way to use

their favorite hops. beer is something created;

it is a recipe, constantly tweaked.

More hops; different hops. New yeasts;

a little bit of this, a little bit of that. New

styles were being created constantly, using

herbs, spices, fruit, coffee, barrel aging

and more. back then, bill Patterson, the

chef and owner of chimayo on orcas

Island, worked for Murphy’s Pub in Wallingford.

He fondly recalls the “first wave.”

(continued on page 149)


washingTon crafT

Beer direcTory

So many beers, such a long bucket list! We asked our panel of beer

experts to list their favorite local and regional breweries in the state, their

outstanding brews (available year-round) and where to find them

* = usually only available at brewery

seaTTle microBrews

Baron Brewing/

Tree SkullS aleS/

PillagerS PuB

Greenwood, 8551 Greenwood Ave.

N, No. 5

pillagerspub.com

Best Brew: three skulls Blood

Orange wit

Big al Brewing

white Center, 9832 14th Ave. sw

bigalbrewing.com

Best Brew: Brougham Bitter

Big Time Brewing &

alehouSe

U District, 4133 University way Ne

bigtimebrewery.com

Best Brew: Coal Creek Porter

ellioTT Bay BrewhouSe

& PuB*

west seattle, 4720 California

Ave. sw

Lake City, 12537 Lake City way Ne

Burien, 255 sw 152nd st.

elliottbaybrewing.com

Best Brew: Alembic Pale Ale

elySian Brewing ComPany

Capitol Hill, 1221 e Pike st.

soDo, 542 First Ave. s

tangletown, 2106 N 55th st.

elysianbrewing.com

Best Brew: Avatar Jasmine IPA

emerald CiTy Beer

ComPany

soDo, 3100 Airport way s

emeraldcitybeer.com

Best Brew: Dottie seattle Lager

FremonT Brewing

ComPany

Fremont, 3409 woodland Park

Ave. N

fremontbrewing.com

Best Brew: Interurban IPA

georgeTown Brewing

ComPany

Georgetown, 5200 Denver Ave. s

georgetownbeer.com

Best Brew: Lucille IPA

hale’S aleS

Brewery & PuB

Fremont, 4301 Leary way Nw

halesbrewery.com

Best Brew: supergoose IPA

130 seattle october 2011

mariTime PaCiFiC Brewing

Co./Jolly roger TaProom

Ballard, 1111 Nw Ballard way

maritimebrewery.com

Best Brew: Nightwatch Dark

Amber Ale

naked CiTy Brewery &

TaPhouSe*

Greenwood, 8564 Greenwood

Ave. N

nakedcitybrewing.com

Best Brew: Big Lebrewski Imperial

stout

odin Brewing ComPany

south Park, 9130 15th Place s,

suite F

odinbrewing.com

Best Brew: Freya’s Gold Kolsch

Pike Brewing ComPany

Pike Place Market, 1415 First Ave.,

seattle

pikebrewing.com

Best Brew: Pike tandem Double

Ale

SChooner exaCT Brewing

ComPany

soDo, 3901 First Ave. s

schoonerexact.com

Best Brew: Profanity Hill Porter

Two BeerS Brewing Co.

soDo, 4700 Ohio Ave. s, Unit A

twobeersbrewery.com

Best Brew: evolutionary IPA

Beyond seaTTle

7 SeaS Brewing Co.

Gig Harbor, 3207 57th st. Court Nw

7seasbrewing.com

Best Brew: rude Parrot IPA

airwayS Brewing ComPany

Kent, 6644 s 196th st., #t-100,

airwaysbrewing.com

Best Brew: sky Hag IPA

alPine Brewing Co.

Oroville, 821 14th Ave.

alpine-brewing.com

Best Brew: Alpine Marzen

ameriCan Brewing

ComPany

edmonds, 180 w Dayton st.,

warehouse 102

americanbrewing.com

Best Brew: Breakaway IPA

anaCorTeS Brewery &

roCkFiSh grill

Anacortes, 320 Commercial Ave.

anacortesrockfish.com

Best Brew: Anacortes Brewery IPA

Big e aleS/ellerSiCk

Brewing Co.

Lynnwood, 5030 208th st. sw,

suite A

ellersickbrewing.com

Best Brew: Hoppy red Head

BlaCk raven Brewing Co.

redmond, 14679 Ne 95th st.

blackravenbrewing.com

Best Brew: trickster IPA

Boundary Bay Brewery

& BiSTro

Bellingham, 1107 railroad Ave.

bbaybrewery.com

Best Brew: Boundary Bay Imperial

IPA

ChuCkanuT Brewery &

kiTChen

Bellingham, 601 w Holly st.

chuckanutbreweryandkitchen.com

Best Brew: Chuckanut Kolsch

der Blokken Brewery

Bremerton, 1100 Perry Ave.

Best Brew: Pactolian Pale Ale

diamond knoT Brewing

ComPany

Mukilteo, 621A Front st.

diamondknot.com

Best Brew: Industrial IPA

diCk’S Brewing Co.

Centralia, 3516 Galvin road

dicksbeer.com

Best Brew: Dick Danger Ale

ellioTT Bay BrewhouSe

& PuB

Burien, 255 sw 152nd st.

elliottbaybrewing.com

Best Brew: Alembic Pale Ale

everyBody’S Brewing

white salmon, 151 e Jewett Blvd.

everybodysbrewing.com

Best Brew: Country Boy IPA

FiSh Brewing ComPany

Olympia, 514 Jefferson st. se

fishbrewing.com

Best Brew: Fish tale Organic wild

salmon Pale Ale

FlyerS reSTauranT &

Brewery

Oak Harbor, 32295 s.r. 20

eatatflyers.com

Best Brew: Pacemaker Porter

grove STreeT BrewhouSe*

shelton, 233 s First st.

grovestreetbrewhouse.wordpress.

com

Best Brew: IPAcalypse

harmon Brewing Co.

tacoma, including

1938 Pacific Ave.

203 tacoma Ave. s

204 saint Helens Ave.

harmonbrewingco.com

Best Brew: Point Defiance IPA

hood Canal Brewery

Kingston, 26499 Bond road Ne

hoodcanalbrewery.com

Best Brew: Agate Pass Amber

iron horSe Brewery

ellensburg, 416 N Main

ironhorsebrewery.com

Best Brew: Quilter’s Irish Death

lazy Boy Brewing

everett, 715 100th st. se, suite A-1

lazyboybrewing.com

Best Brew: Lazy Boy IPA

maC & JaCk’S Brewing

redmond, 17825 Ne 65th st.

macandjacks.com

Best Brew: African Amber

norTh Sound Brewing Co.

Mount Vernon, 17406 s.r. 536,

Unit A

northsoundbrewing.com

Best Brew: Hop Chops IPA

old SChoolhouSe

Brewery

winthrop, 155 riverside Drive

oldschoolhousebrewery.com

Best Brew: ruud Awakening IPA

PorT TownSend Brewing

ComPany

Port townsend, 330 10th st.

porttownsendbrewing.com

Best Brew: Hop Diggidy IPA

SCuTTleBuTT Brewing

ComPany

everett, 1205 Craftsman way,

suite 101

scuttlebuttbrewing.com

Best Brew: tripel 7 Belgian-style

Ale

Silver CiTy Brewery

silverdale, 2799 Nw Myhre road

silvercitybrewery.com

Best Brew: ridgetop red Ale

SkagiT river Brewery

Mount Vernon, 404 s third st.

skagitbrew.com

Best Brew: Gospel IPA

Skookum Brewery

Arlington, 19529 17th Drive Ne

skookumbrewing.com

Best Brew: Olde tom IPA

SniPeS mounTain Brewery

& reSTauranT

sunnyside, 905 Yakima Valley Hwy.

snipesmountain.com

Best Brew: IPA

Sound Brewery

Poulsbo, 650 Nw Bovela Lane,

suite 3

soundbrewery.com

Best Brew: Dubbel entendre

Abbey-style Ale

Snoqualmie FallS

Brewery & TaProom

snoqualmie, 8032 Falls Ave. se

fallsbrew.com

Best Brew: wildcat IPA

Trade rouTe Brewing

ComPany

Pacific, 1091 Valentine Ave. se

traderoutebrewing.com

Best Brew: Joker Ale

valhöll Brewing Co.*

Poulsbo, 20186-B Front st. Ne

valhollbrewing.com

Best Brew: stouty stouterson

walking man Brewing Co.

stevenson, 240 sw First st.

Best Brew: Knuckle Dragger

Pale Ale

yakima CraFT Brewing Co.

Yakima, 2920 river road, #6

yakimacraftbrewing.com

Best Brew: 1982

nano-Breweries

ePiC aleS

soDo, 3201 First Ave. s, suite 104

epicales.com

Best Brew: Beatrice

Foggy noggin Brewing

Bothell, 22329 53rd Ave. se

foggynogginbrewing.com

Best Brew: Bit O’Beaver

norThweST PeakS

Brewery*

Ballard, 4912 17th Ave. Nw, suite B

nwpeaksbrewery.com

Best Brew: redoubt red

wingman BrewerS

tacoma, 1727 Fawcett Ave.

wingmanbrewers.com

Best Brew: P-51 Porter

naTional chains wiTh

seaTTle rooTs

Pyramid alehouSe,

Brewery & reSTauranT

soDo, 1201 First Ave. s

pyramidbrew.com

Best Brew: Pyramid Hefeweizen

The ram reSTauranT

and Brewery

eight locations, including

2650 University Village

theram.com

Best Brew: total Disorder Porter

redhook Brewery/

ForeCaSTerS PuB

woodinville, 14300 Ne 145th st.

redhook.com

Best Brew: redhook esB


Seattle Beer History

(continued from page 128)

“I remember happening into the offices at

[what was then] Pike Place brewery and

tasting from a table covered with pints of

beer with owner charles Finkel and [english

beer writer] Michael Jackson.” Jackson

was the strongest advocate for Northwest

beer in the early days, and demanded that

the world take these beers—brewed at Pike

Place brewery, bert Grant’s in Yakima,

the early redhook brewery and others—

seriously.

Paul Shipman, who established redhook

brewery with Gordon bowker in

1981, first brewed their ales in an old

transmission shop in ballard. “He would

deliver kegs himself [to Murphy’s] in the

back of his pickup,” says Patterson. “At

first, it had a banana flavor from whatever

yeast he was using.” but Shipman—as

well as many young brewers—modified

his formula and hit the jackpot with redhook’s

eSb, and came to produce some of

the most popular beer in the Northwest—

and the country. He moved his brewery

from Fremont to Woodinville, and

merged with Widmer in 2003 under the

craft brewers Alliance (Anheuser-busch

owns about 35 percent of the company),

but the now-classic Northwest-style ale

has become a standard for microbrews

in Seattle, such as Pyramid (which is no

longer brewed here), and later the elysian

brewing company and other breweries

across the country.

With the rise in craft brewing as a

national movement, Seattle lost some of

its cachet to Portland, Denver, boulder,

San Diego, Maine and other places, perhaps

partly because most of our small

breweries don’t distribute much out of

state. but Seattle’s brewers operate on a

sort of informal apprenticeship model—

brewers learn from each other and then

move on to other breweries, leading to

experimentation and the birth of new

developments. this centuries-old process,

more than anything else, may have contributed

to the current resurgence in

Seattle brewing, with new microbreweries

and nanobreweries opening every

month, and unique beer-focused bars,

gastropubs and bottle shops popping up,

once again securing Seattle’s status as a

beer lover’s paradise. S

october 2011 seattle 149

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