Amigos Edition 22 - Confraternity of St. James South Africa
Amigos Edition 22 - Confraternity of St. James South Africa
Amigos Edition 22 - Confraternity of St. James South Africa
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<strong>Amigos</strong><br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />
in this issue...<br />
From a Quiet Rut to a<br />
Busy Camino<br />
by Ron Teire (Born: 4/3/1925)<br />
Le Mont-<strong>St</strong>. Michel - Spectacular<br />
Vision <strong>of</strong> the New Jerusalem<br />
by Heinrich Brumfield<br />
Message for the Opening <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Compostela Holy Year - Vatican<br />
edition no. <strong>22</strong><br />
march 2010
Outdoor & Equipment<br />
Specialists Since 1989<br />
For more info on a stockist near you<br />
visit www.firstascent.co.za or phone 021-787 9380<br />
From the Editor’s Desk<br />
Silvia Nilsen Ron Teire (84) Dieter Daehnke<br />
Pat Foure<br />
<strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
Dear Pilgrim Friends,<br />
Any publication is as good as the amount <strong>of</strong><br />
planning, teamwork, research, investigation,<br />
interpretation and pr<strong>of</strong>essionalism that it gets from<br />
its contributors and editorial team.<br />
Similar to our well-organized <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong>, <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>, <strong>Amigos</strong> is establishing itself<br />
as a publication that carries the essence <strong>of</strong> the Camino Experiences <strong>of</strong><br />
our members that reside across the world.<br />
The HOLY year that <strong>of</strong>ficially started when the Holy door to the<br />
Cathedral in Santiago was opened with the knocking over <strong>of</strong> the brick<br />
wall with the staff <strong>of</strong> Archbishop Julian Barrio <strong>of</strong> Santiago de Compostela,<br />
Spain, presented us with a brand new opportunity to convey the<br />
Spirit Of The Way.<br />
In <strong>Edition</strong> <strong>22</strong> we begin to shift our focus to the HOLY YEAR as one <strong>of</strong> the<br />
aspects that kept the Spirit <strong>of</strong> The Camino alive for hundreds <strong>of</strong> years.<br />
From the many paths that lead to Santiago, we follow the Camino<br />
Aragones to where it connects with the Camino Francés in Puenta la<br />
Reina and we cross Northern Spain with Dieter Daehnke who shows us<br />
what it is like to walk the Camino Francés during winter-time.<br />
Please enjoy reading <strong>Amigos</strong>, <strong>Edition</strong> <strong>22</strong>.<br />
Abie Martin<br />
Meet some <strong>of</strong> our contributors to this edition<br />
John Joyce Heinrich Brumfield<br />
3
<strong>Amigos</strong><br />
From the Chairman<br />
Dear Pilgrim Friends,<br />
As new Chairman <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>James</strong>’s <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>,<br />
I sincerely thank Heinrich Brumfield, chairman for the last three years,<br />
for all the hard work and effort he has put into the <strong>Confraternity</strong>.<br />
Under his guidance, we became a well-organized and thriving<br />
organization. With the support <strong>of</strong> our members, sub committees and<br />
regional representatives, we will continue to grow the <strong>Confraternity</strong>, not<br />
only in numbers, but also in strength, assisting our members/pilgrims to<br />
equip themselves with the knowledge they need to set them on their next<br />
Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. I also thank our new Vice<br />
Chairman, Mark Pickering, our Treasurer Andree Lombard and Editor<br />
Abie Martin for making themselves available for <strong>of</strong>fice. Once again, we<br />
have a strong, well-skilled team, equipped to take the <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>.<br />
<strong>James</strong> forward.<br />
With 2010 being a Holy Year, we have already seen an enormous jump<br />
in new memberships and membership renewals and we anticipate an<br />
extremely busy year ahead. Our “new look” 2010 pilgrim passports,<br />
depicting the 2010 logo, have sparked great interest with international<br />
Confraternities. We are, as far as I know, the only <strong>Confraternity</strong> to use the<br />
2010 logo on our passports. We gratefully thank the Spanish Arch<br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> in Santiago de Compostela, for granting us the privilege to<br />
use it during the HOLY YEAR. One <strong>of</strong> our many success stories<br />
during 2009 was our photographic competition. It brought us our very<br />
first Camino Desk Calendar and I urge all pilgrims to participate in 2010.<br />
In so doing you not only share your Camino experiences with us, but all<br />
photographs submitted are regularly reviewed by the editorial team as an<br />
invaluable source <strong>of</strong> material for use in our <strong>Amigos</strong> Publication and on<br />
our Website. A substantial amount were budgeted so that our librarian,<br />
Elmara Willis, can expand our library through purchasing new and<br />
recently published books for exclusive use by our members. I also urge<br />
our members to donate any Camino related books that are gathering<br />
dust on your shelves so that they can be available for borrowing by other<br />
interested members. Included in our pilgrim passport package <strong>of</strong>fering<br />
is our brand-new luggage label. Extremely attractive, they will greatly<br />
enhance the look <strong>of</strong> your backpacks while walking.<br />
Buen Camino!<br />
Fran Parsons<br />
4 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />
04<br />
Main Articles<br />
06<br />
08<br />
09<br />
11<br />
14<br />
16<br />
18<br />
<strong>22</strong><br />
23<br />
From the Chairman<br />
<strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
CONTENTS<br />
From quiet rut to busy Camino - by Ron Tiere (84)<br />
My Lesson from my Dad’s Camino - by Pat Foure<br />
Memoirs for John Joyce, a Camino Veteran - by Sylvia Nilsen<br />
Reflections on my Winter Walk - by Dieter Daehnke<br />
2010 Holy Year Camino Poster - by Sylvia Nilsen<br />
The American Connection - by Ed Tennyson<br />
Le Mont-Saint-Michel Gothic Wonder<br />
Spectacular Vision <strong>of</strong> “The New Jerusalem” - by Heinrich Brumfield<br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> News<br />
25<br />
26<br />
27<br />
Reflections: “This too shall pass” - by Fr. Frank de Gouveia<br />
Routes: Lourdes to Pamplona on the Aragones Route - by Sylvia Nilsen<br />
National<br />
Member <strong>St</strong>atistics<br />
Photo <strong>St</strong>ories<br />
Patron <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />
Regional<br />
28 Gauteng<br />
International<br />
29 News from Spain and the Camino<br />
31 News from other Confraternities<br />
32 The Marketplace<br />
Camino News<br />
32<br />
Books, CD and DVD Reviews<br />
34 Pilgrim Images - Past and Present<br />
5
From quiet rut to busy<br />
Camino by Ron Tiere (84)<br />
“Each day, although going<br />
<strong>of</strong>f alone, I was soon joined<br />
by fellow travelers, most not<br />
going much quicker than me“<br />
In my eighty-fifth summer, I was living quietly, but kept busy as the<br />
main carer <strong>of</strong> my disabled wife. Then, we had a whirlwind visit from<br />
our Cape Town daughter Pat, who was on her way to a pilgrimage across<br />
Northern Spain. It was to take her six weeks and for the final week her<br />
son’s German girlfriend, Jen with her mother, Birgit were joining her for<br />
the last 120kms.<br />
At once she saw that I needed a break and a jolt out <strong>of</strong> my rut. So, within<br />
twelve hours, my wife was booked into a nursing home for a week and I<br />
was booked on to the same flight to Santiago as Jen and Birgit.<br />
Although I had previously enjoyed many walking trips, including several<br />
cross Scotland hikes and a Giant’s Cup trail, my increased daily<br />
responsibilities in the last couple <strong>of</strong> years had left me with little surplus<br />
energy and leisure time for either walking or even my usual golf, so I<br />
needed to spend the next month in some urgent fitness training. My<br />
training started badly and on my first walk I managed to trip up and was<br />
most embarrassed by the time it took to get myself back on my feet! It<br />
very soon became apparent that I wouldn’t manage the scheduled 20km<br />
daily walks and realising this, Pat increased her daily walks to enable her<br />
to complete her pilgrimage a week early. She was therefore able to meet<br />
our plane in Santiago and accompany us back to Sarria, 120km to the<br />
east and cover this stretch again.<br />
Each day, although setting <strong>of</strong>f alone, I was soon joined by a stream <strong>of</strong><br />
fellow travelers, most not going much quicker than me. Pat had sent me<br />
e-mails giving details <strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong> the interesting people <strong>of</strong> all<br />
nationalities she’d met and I was pleased to meet some <strong>of</strong> them and<br />
Ron in Santiago chatting to a Norwegian lady pilgrim<br />
they and Pat were happy to meet again. They included a couple who had<br />
started from Alsace in May with their donkey. They would reach<br />
Santiago in late September after 5 months and countless kilometres -<br />
some pilgrimage! Another unusual fellow traveler was a severely<br />
disabled man with a group <strong>of</strong> helpers. He was conveyed on an<br />
interesting carriage. It had one wheel over which he was perched, two<br />
men were walking alongside and keeping him upright while in front, a<br />
man was harnessed to pull and behind<br />
similarly another pushed like a<br />
wheelbarrow. They were making very<br />
good progress and he was well cared for at<br />
night. Our one night <strong>of</strong> luxury, not spent in<br />
bunk beds, we enjoyed the <strong>South</strong><br />
<strong>Africa</strong>n hospitality <strong>of</strong> Gordon Bell, who<br />
was renovating an old farm house into<br />
comfortable accommodation on the route.<br />
Summing up, I had a great holiday with<br />
enjoyable company, meeting interesting<br />
people and went home much improved in<br />
health and mind. Also my wife was very<br />
pleased to get back home again after her<br />
week in the nursing home. She now<br />
appreciates my caring efforts more than<br />
ever.<br />
Ron Teire<br />
Born : 4/3/1925<br />
Leaving the pack for Pat in Melide.<br />
6 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> <strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
7
My Lesson from my Dad’s Camino<br />
by Pat Foure<br />
When I met Dad in<br />
Santiago for his<br />
Camino I had just<br />
completed my month<br />
on the road. My Camino<br />
had been about the<br />
physical challenge <strong>of</strong><br />
walking every inch <strong>of</strong><br />
the Way carrying my<br />
own pack, together with<br />
the spiritual acceptance<br />
<strong>of</strong> reaching retirement.<br />
Dad and I with Jen &<br />
Birgit started out from<br />
Sarria, and reached<br />
Casa Banderas as<br />
planned for our first<br />
night together on the<br />
road. On arrival, I<br />
started by apologizing<br />
for the fact that Dad<br />
and I had taxied the<br />
first steep hills and just<br />
walked the final 8kms<br />
Arriving in Santiago - Birgit, Ron. Jen and Pat<br />
through to Vilachá. I<br />
was immediately silenced by Maggie, the lovely New Zealander who<br />
was helping Gordon Bell at his Albergue. She reminded me that we all<br />
have our own Camino’s and no Camino is more or less worthwhile than<br />
anyone else’s. Each one must be respected.<br />
Dad’s Camino was about the enjoyment <strong>of</strong> the Galician countryside, the<br />
simplicity <strong>of</strong> life on the road with just a few essentials in your pack, and<br />
the social interactions with us three lady fellow travelers and the<br />
fascinating pilgrims he met along the road. I hope that this journey<br />
helped to renew his enthusiasm and energies for the demanding physical<br />
responsibilities <strong>of</strong> caring so well for my mother.<br />
Well done Dad - not just for a good Camino - but also for your gentle,<br />
patient and loving journey through life.<br />
Memoirs for John Joyce,<br />
a Camino Veteran by Sylvia Nilsen<br />
You are never too old to walk the Camino!<br />
Since walking his first Camino in 2001<br />
at the age <strong>of</strong> 68, John has become a<br />
‘Camino-holic’. His favourite routes are<br />
the Primitivo and the Fistera-Muxia route<br />
which he does every year.<br />
Besides walking Camino routes, in<br />
2003 he joined Sylvia Nilsen to walk<br />
with the Breaking Free relay team from<br />
Durban to Cape Town in aid <strong>of</strong> abused<br />
women and children.<br />
In 2004 he tackled the Via Francigena<br />
from Lake Geneva to Rome. The 1800km<br />
VF starts in Canterbury and ends in<br />
Rome so the following year John decided<br />
to do the first half <strong>of</strong> the VF from<br />
Canterbury to Geneva.<br />
He then continued to Le Puy and down<br />
to Irun following the Camino Norte to<br />
Santiago - and Fistera-Muxia - an<br />
uber-marathon trek <strong>of</strong> about 3500km.<br />
He started walking the John O Groats to<br />
Lands End in April 2006 but bad weather<br />
forced him to abandon the walk.<br />
He flew to Italy and joined a group walking the Via Romea from Naples<br />
to Rome. In 2008, at age 75, he collapsed after running a marathon in<br />
Pietermaritzburg.<br />
His heart stopped and paramedics and a cardiologist worked on him for<br />
9 minutes before getting his heart beating again.<br />
He spent a week in hospital and a few months convalescing before<br />
tackling the Caminho Portuguese from Lagos in the south to Santiago as<br />
well as the Camino Ingles and down to Finisterre and Muxia.<br />
This year is a big year for John. After doing the Two-Oceans half<br />
marathon he will fly to Spain to walk the Madrid Route. In November,<br />
after he turns 77, he is planning on tackling the Annapurna circuit in<br />
Nepal.<br />
8 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> <strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
9
John Joyce’s Remarkable Camino Circuit<br />
2001 Camino Frances: Roncesvalles to Finisterre & muxia.<br />
Then to Fatima and back<br />
2002 Via de la Plata from Seville and on to Finisterre & Muxia<br />
2003 Camino Frances from Roncesvalles to Finisterre.<br />
2004 Geneva to Rome on the Via Francigena<br />
2005 Canterbury to Geneva - to Le Puy - to Irun - Camino Norte to<br />
Santiago then to Finisterre and Muxia<br />
2006 Via Romea from Naples to Rome<br />
2007 Lourdes to Santiago on the Aragones Route then Finisterre and<br />
Muxia<br />
2008 Lagos, Lisbon, Fatima to Santiago. A Coruna and el Ferrol to<br />
Santiago and Finisterre and Muxia<br />
2009 Camino Frances from Burgos, Primitivo to Santiago then Finisterre<br />
and Muxia<br />
2010 Will start the Madrid route to Sahagun on 29th April. He intends<br />
going to <strong>St</strong> Jean Pied de Port to walk the ‘first half’ <strong>of</strong> the Camino<br />
again, then get a bus or train to Santiago.<br />
You are never too old to walk the Camino!<br />
Thu 11 February 2010<br />
Alasdar MacCana <strong>of</strong> Galway in Ireland. thought to be one <strong>of</strong> the oldest<br />
pilgrims to walk the Camino, passed away last week.<br />
He would have been 102 years old on Tuesday. He remained physically<br />
adroit and was regularly seen walking from his home at Portacarron into<br />
the village <strong>of</strong> Oughterard. At the age <strong>of</strong> 97 he travelled to Northern Spain<br />
with his son to complete the 100-mile Santiago de Compostela<br />
pilgrimage, covering ten miles a day over ten days.<br />
Alasdar had an insatiable thirst for knowledge and completed a computer<br />
course last year driven by an ambition to start his own business as an<br />
educational adviser. He had also started to learn Ancient Greek.<br />
10 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />
Reflections on my Winter Walk<br />
by Dieter Daehnke<br />
What is it like to walk<br />
the Camino Francés in<br />
winter? One thing is<br />
certain. It is very<br />
different from walking<br />
in summer.<br />
had the good<br />
I fortune to walk in<br />
September 2009 from<br />
Fromista to Santiago<br />
de Compostela and I<br />
enjoyed every minute<br />
<strong>of</strong> it.<br />
The weather was kind<br />
to me, with very little<br />
rain near Triacastela.<br />
By end January this year, my wife and I had to travel to Germany for<br />
family reasons and I decided to take the opportunity to walk the Camino<br />
France’s either from <strong>St</strong> Jean Pied de Port (snow on Pyrenees permitting) or<br />
from Roncesvalles to Fromista - in order to complete the total length <strong>of</strong><br />
the Camino. Obviously, everyone thought I was mad, choosing the worst<br />
European winter recorded for decades was very questionable.<br />
For me it was either now or not at all this year - being the holy year with<br />
about 4 times more pilgrims expected on the road. I had most gear from<br />
the September walk to which I added thermal underwear, fleece and<br />
waterpro<strong>of</strong> boots. Sleeping bag yes or no was my most difficult decision.<br />
I am claustrophobic in a closed up bag and need to spread out for space<br />
and temperature control purposes.<br />
I finally bought a totally zip - open synthetic bag, good enough for<br />
12deg plus conditions. It was an essential choice, most albergues switch<br />
on their heaters at 17.00 and switch <strong>of</strong>f again during nighttime from<br />
<strong>22</strong>.00hrs. Therefore, you can imagine the temperature in dormitories as<br />
morning approaches.<br />
Some albergues had blankets - but not all, so thermal underwear was<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten a 24-hour necessity. Leaving Roncesvalles at 8am on the 6th<br />
February, (the Pyrenees were snowed under) it drizzled throughout the<br />
day and any walking <strong>of</strong>f the tar road was either through snow and ice or<br />
through very muddy sections.<br />
<strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
11
The next day to Pamplona - Cezur Menor was blessed with sunshine and<br />
I was again cursed with mud in places. The following days presented<br />
frost, snowing, drizzle rain, etc.<br />
All in all we had 2 days sunshine, 6 days drizzle rain, 6 days snow, with<br />
& without actual snowing. Temperatures at daytimes were between +7<br />
and -5 degrees C.<br />
But how beautiful can a landscape with snow be! Especially when one is<br />
all alone and just hears the footsteps squashing the snow or crushing the<br />
ice and the rustle <strong>of</strong> the hood around the ears. It is probably something<br />
I will never see and do again.<br />
Sometimes the wind drove snow flakes or rain into your face and a wide<br />
brimmed hat is the best protection against this, - head down, seeing no<br />
more than 2m in front <strong>of</strong> you (don’t forget looking for the yellow arrow in<br />
the process).<br />
We started <strong>of</strong>f with 7 pilgrims (from Slovenia, Costa Rica, Argentina,<br />
Canada, Spain & <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>) from Roncesvalles - with pilgrim’s mass<br />
being <strong>of</strong>ficiated by 4 priests. The Costa Rican was too fast for us and we<br />
lost sight <strong>of</strong> him immediately. Others were too slow or dropped out, so 4<br />
<strong>of</strong> us (later 3 <strong>of</strong> us) met most evenings until we reached Burgos.<br />
There, I took the bus to Santo Domingo de Silos to experience the about<br />
30 monks chanting during their Visperia, - a moving experience.<br />
From Burgos to Fromista (3 days), there was no other pilgrim on the way<br />
and in the Albergues. I felt left behind by my friends. Sleeping places<br />
are limited at this time <strong>of</strong> the year and I could not rely on my guidebook<br />
for accurate information. Therefore, it was essential to get advice from<br />
Hostelarios.<br />
In addition, a number <strong>of</strong> bars were closed and those open had a very<br />
limited selection <strong>of</strong> food available. Shops are even more difficult to find<br />
than in summer. In the mornings, I was on my way between 7.45 and<br />
8.30, not at 6.00 to 7.00, which was my practice in September.<br />
Darkness in the<br />
morning in summer<br />
was fine but darkness<br />
and the cold in winter<br />
is another story.<br />
(Due to winter time<br />
clock setting in<br />
Europe, the morning<br />
sunrise is very similar<br />
between summer and<br />
winter but the day is<br />
much shorter.)<br />
In the evening, it was<br />
getting dark at about<br />
6pm, very different<br />
from the long<br />
12 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />
evenings in summer. It was a pleasure to spread one’s belongings out<br />
over two, even 3 beds.<br />
Albergues were certainly not overloaded and solitude on the way was<br />
guaranteed. Walking the Camino is a resolve to reach Santiago de<br />
Compostela (or your chosen destination).<br />
The conditions one encounters are accepted without questioning - There<br />
is no thought <strong>of</strong> waiting for the rain to stop - one is free to continue and<br />
not burdened by choices. What makes a winter walk different to walking<br />
in summer?<br />
For one, writing my diary in September was something I really enjoyed.<br />
Any place was suitable to put your thoughts and experiences on paper,<br />
be it sitting in a church porch, on church steps, inside churches, on the<br />
side <strong>of</strong> the way, at a picnic spot, etc. When something came to mind,<br />
I was able to record it. In this way, my diary was written “in the moment”<br />
and presented a good reflection <strong>of</strong> my experiences. In addition, if I got<br />
tired, I could find a tree or bush to sleep under.<br />
Obviously, this is not possible in winter and for me, writing inside<br />
albergues with others around was not successful.<br />
Therefore, my choice is to walk in warmer conditions again in future.<br />
Having said that, I am so glad and privileged to have had experienced<br />
this winter walk. Been there, done it, as my daughter Kai would say.<br />
Have the (tee-shirt) and the pictures to prove it.<br />
<strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
13
2010 Holy Year Camino Poster<br />
Scq<br />
santiago de 2 1 compostela<br />
MMX<br />
“peregrinando hacia la luz”<br />
anneé sainté de saint jacques holy year from compostela anno santi compostelano<br />
año santo compostelano<br />
heiling von Compostela Jahr annus sanctus compostellanum ano santo compostelano<br />
diseñado por enxeño galicia para la archidiócesis de santiago de compostela<br />
Santiago te espera<br />
encamínate<br />
www.encaminate.com<br />
Interpretation <strong>of</strong> the Design<br />
Sylvia Nilsen collated information from several reputable sources and<br />
provided the summary below:<br />
Modesto Gomez, director <strong>of</strong> Enxeño Galicia Archdiocese Santiago de<br />
Compostela, The Company that designed the poster, explained its<br />
symbolism as follows:<br />
We envisioned the road as a melting pot <strong>of</strong> people who, with their<br />
multitude <strong>of</strong> colours, are pilgrims walking together towards a goal.<br />
We envisioned a destination and drew the Quintana with its threshold <strong>of</strong><br />
reconciliation, a prelude to the embrace that allows us to open ourselves<br />
to the world <strong>of</strong> Obradoiro Glory. We envisioned a style and decided to<br />
compose a mural that symbolized the plurality <strong>of</strong> the road.<br />
Rounded at the base and the lower line at the top it is colorful in its<br />
origin.<br />
The top half is full <strong>of</strong> space and chromatically clean. The Poster is<br />
decorated with a scheme that simplifies the interpretation <strong>of</strong> three distinct<br />
parts that intersect as a natural representation <strong>of</strong> the world.<br />
The World-View is full <strong>of</strong> life and colour and characterized by a<br />
multitude <strong>of</strong> pilgrims, driven by the spirit in an ethereal mix <strong>of</strong><br />
“chiaroscuro” (an Italian artistic technique that use light and dark to<br />
achieve a heightened illusion <strong>of</strong> depth).<br />
Unencumbered, the silhouette <strong>of</strong> the cross, and a central plane in which<br />
the Cathedral is the goal <strong>of</strong> the Path.Obradoiro blurring the towers in<br />
an overhead shot imaginary, we highlight the vision <strong>of</strong> la Quintana as a<br />
Plaza with the presentation <strong>of</strong> the Clock Tower and Holy Door in a composition<br />
<strong>of</strong> simple grey lines and adorned by colorful rounded lines.<br />
At the door are three elements that stand out: first the images that<br />
humanize the stone. On the other, forming a central axis, are two<br />
representations <strong>of</strong> the apostle. How could it be otherwise in the case <strong>of</strong><br />
la Quintana, place <strong>of</strong> living and dead, an apostle recumbent, which is<br />
the guiding light at the end <strong>of</strong> the road, rising above the door in its niche<br />
as a living witness <strong>of</strong> Christ and the pilgrim who, as a good host, awaits<br />
us.<br />
To his right, the clock tower stands as a beacon <strong>of</strong> hope, a symbol <strong>of</strong><br />
three essential elements: the clarity, the call and time. It is more symbolic<br />
<strong>of</strong> the temple tower. It represents, in descending order, a glimmer <strong>of</strong> hope<br />
that flows from its guiding light, a perennial call to conversion that<br />
resonates in each “badalada” <strong>of</strong> the Berengaria bell, and a gentle<br />
discourse <strong>of</strong> hours to the rhythm <strong>of</strong> the needles <strong>of</strong> a clock that evokes our<br />
lives and our history.<br />
At the base we wanted to establish a modern, simple and illuminating<br />
logo: from the Roman era to today, Pilgrim Church, at the hands <strong>of</strong> the<br />
cross and Vieira, icons <strong>of</strong> Jesus and <strong>James</strong>, pilgrimage guided by the light<br />
<strong>of</strong> Christ, walking together, hand in hand with faith, from 2010 years ago.<br />
14 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> <strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
15
The American Connection<br />
by Ed Tennyson<br />
We have been familiar with<br />
the CSJSA through the<br />
Camino de Santiago forum<br />
and have <strong>of</strong>ten been<br />
impressed with the<br />
commitment and dedication<br />
that the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />
members have shown.<br />
As an example, the<br />
litterbag program was<br />
particularly welcome and<br />
much needed.<br />
The amount <strong>of</strong> litter along<br />
the trail was sad in March <strong>of</strong><br />
2009 and we could imagine<br />
how much worse it must get<br />
after the crowds <strong>of</strong> people<br />
pass through later in the year. This commitment to giving back to the<br />
Camino was very impressive.<br />
Ed and Ellie Tennyson, American members <strong>of</strong> our <strong>Confraternity</strong><br />
The original thought <strong>of</strong> joining the CSJSA came about after I had posted a<br />
concern about the size <strong>of</strong> the pilgrim credential issued in Spain.<br />
There is only room for 40 sellos, which means that it is necessary to use<br />
more than one passport or to be very frugal in the stamps received.<br />
Last year we ran out <strong>of</strong> room toward the end and missed out on many<br />
that we would have liked to have as reminders <strong>of</strong> places visited.<br />
Sylvia Nilsen replied with a great description <strong>of</strong> the excellent CSJSA<br />
passport with 90 spaces for stamps. Sil put me in touch with Fran<br />
Parsons who helped us work through the membership necessities.<br />
The CSJSA patch and pin were a nice surprise and are now proudly<br />
displayed on our packs. It may be interesting to explain to other Pilgrims<br />
why Americans are members <strong>of</strong> the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>n <strong>Confraternity</strong>.<br />
My wife, Ellie, and I both retired and have been for about 10 years.<br />
We live in Seattle, Washington overlooking Puget Sound, which is a very<br />
large inland salt-water bay with a lot <strong>of</strong> ocean shipping and traffic.<br />
We have traveled very extensively around the world since retirement and<br />
have covered much <strong>of</strong> the world. <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> is still on our list <strong>of</strong> places<br />
to visit and hope to make it there at some point.<br />
16 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />
We had known <strong>of</strong> the Camino de Santiago for a long time and had<br />
always been a little drawn to it. We decided to go after realizing that the<br />
traveling we were doing was beginning to all seem to be the same.<br />
Neither <strong>of</strong> us were exercise oriented and, as most Americans, would<br />
drive a few blocks to a store rather than walk. No exercise program at all.<br />
We did walk a bit for about a month before we went in March <strong>of</strong> 2009.<br />
Ellie experienced severe blisters and foot problems the whole way and<br />
suffered every day but would not quit. I did not have any problems and<br />
was surprised that it seemed hard and grueling but not difficult in light <strong>of</strong><br />
my lack <strong>of</strong> physical conditioning.<br />
I am leaving from SJPP on 14 March and will walk some <strong>of</strong> the way with<br />
a friend from Belgium that we met in 2009. His wife is not going this year<br />
and we found that we had both planned to walk at about the same time.<br />
Ellie will not be able to walk the whole Camino this year with her serious<br />
feet problems and will meet me in Sarria and do the last stage with me.<br />
I hope that her feet will hold up for the shorter distance.<br />
Best regards,<br />
Ed Tennyson<br />
Benedict XVI to Visit Spain in November<br />
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA, Spain, MARCH 3, 2010 (Zenit.org)<br />
Benedict XVI will visit Santiago de Compostela this Nov. 6 for the<br />
Jacobeo Holy Year, and go to Barcelona the next day to consecrate<br />
that city’s church <strong>of</strong> the Sagrada Familia.<br />
The archbishops <strong>of</strong> the two cities, Cardinal Lluís Martínez Sistach <strong>of</strong><br />
Barcelona and Archbishop Julián Barrio <strong>of</strong> Santiago, announced this<br />
today.<br />
Archbishop Barrio said the Holy Father had expressed his desire to<br />
go to Santiago as a “pilgrim <strong>of</strong> faith.” The prelate was at the Vatican<br />
on Monday to invite the Holy Father to his country.<br />
The November trip will be Benedict XVI’s second to Spain, after the<br />
2006 World Meeting <strong>of</strong> Families he attended in Valencia.<br />
He is scheduled to visit Spain for a third time in August 2011 for<br />
World Youth Day in Madrid.<br />
<strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
17
Le Mont-Saint-Michel<br />
Gothic Wonder<br />
Spectacular Vision <strong>of</strong><br />
“The New Jerusalem”<br />
by Heinrich Brumfield<br />
Then I saw a new heaven and a new earth, for the first heaven and the<br />
first earth had passed away, and there was no longer any sea. I saw the<br />
Holy City, the new Jerusalem, coming down out <strong>of</strong> heaven from God,<br />
prepared as a bride beautifully dressed for her husband. And I heard a<br />
loud voice from the throne saying, “Now the dwelling <strong>of</strong> God is with<br />
men, and he will live with them. They will be his people, and God himself<br />
will be with them and be their God. He will wipe every tear from their<br />
eyes. There will be no more death or mourning or crying or pain, for the<br />
old order <strong>of</strong> things has passed away.” (Revelation 21:1-4 The New Jerusalem)<br />
The first time I<br />
visited the<br />
magnificent abbey<br />
church <strong>of</strong> Le Mont-Saint-<br />
Michel on the Normandy<br />
coast <strong>of</strong> France, was in<br />
the summer <strong>of</strong> 2003.<br />
Some months prior to my<br />
visit, I watched a BBC<br />
television documentary<br />
on this marvelous place<br />
and was immediately<br />
completely fascinated by<br />
this extraordinary feat <strong>of</strong><br />
architecture and<br />
engineering. I had to see<br />
it for myself in real life. I<br />
had to touch the stones<br />
from which it was built.<br />
My approach to the<br />
Mount was from a<br />
southerly direction. From<br />
a few kilometers away, I<br />
could initially only make<br />
18 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />
out a very unusual shape on the horizon. Getting closer, I was absolutely<br />
stunned and captivated by the fantastic and completely surreal vision that<br />
greeted me. There, against the pale blue sky, totally surrounded by water,<br />
was the abbey church and its supporting buildings. The entire ensemble<br />
<strong>of</strong> buildings that make up the abbey church were constructed on the<br />
peak <strong>of</strong> a pyramid-shaped rock. Other buildings around and below it is<br />
built on the terraced slopes <strong>of</strong> the site. The small island with its collection<br />
<strong>of</strong> built structures formed a perfect triangle, silhouetted against the early<br />
morning haze. It appeared to be completely disconnected from the earth;<br />
as if it was floating in the sky. A world unto itself.<br />
Cut <strong>of</strong>f from ordinary things - the mundane <strong>of</strong> every-day life. Something<br />
completely unique which radiated holiness. From a distance I could see<br />
the arc <strong>of</strong> the flying buttresses <strong>of</strong> the church. The golden statue <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>.<br />
Michael, in the act <strong>of</strong> slaying the dragon, gleaming in the sun, 500 feet<br />
high, on the spire <strong>of</strong> the church. I was captivated and momentarily in my<br />
own dream world.<br />
This was no mirage. After many years <strong>of</strong> reading about the Mount and<br />
dreaming and longing to see it in real life, I had arrived at the one site in<br />
Europe that probably best demonstrate the Medieval Benedictine<br />
interpretation <strong>of</strong> Revelation, chapter 21. This achingly beautiful place did<br />
not develop into its current shape by accident. It was built over centuries<br />
with meticulous attention to detail. The design and construction <strong>of</strong> the<br />
abbey church, with all its supporting structures, was a deliberate attempt<br />
by the Benedictine monks, who occupied the site throughout the Middle<br />
Ages, to construct the “New Jerusalem” here on earth.<br />
Mont-Saint-Michel, therefore, in the unformulated Medieval imagination,<br />
represents nothing less than the Jerusalem <strong>of</strong> the Apocalypse, descended<br />
from Heaven to welcome the Blessed for Eternity. From what I<br />
experienced, I can most definitely say that they have succeeded in<br />
reaching their goal, in spectacular fashion!<br />
The Mount is an immutable silhouette, standing in a landscape in<br />
constant transformation. It evokes an indestructible stability, an<br />
enormous, eternal strength, around which stirs the threatening, confused<br />
and dangerous forces <strong>of</strong> chaos.It also represents a vertical axis, linking<br />
together the three levels <strong>of</strong> the Universe – the Sky, the Earth and the<br />
Nether World. It is the ‘axis <strong>of</strong> the world’ – that is to say, a passage, an<br />
opening through which is established the communication between our<br />
world and that <strong>of</strong> the divine presences <strong>of</strong> above.<br />
The Benedictines occupied the rock since 966 and it was they who gave<br />
shape to these ideas, based on their interpretation <strong>of</strong> the book <strong>of</strong><br />
Revelation. Throughout the Middle Ages, Le Mont-Saint-Michel was<br />
visited most <strong>of</strong>ten by pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela,<br />
from Scandinavia, England and Northern Europe. After visiting the site,<br />
most <strong>of</strong> them would re-join the major pilgrim route through<br />
North-Western France, the Via Turonensis, at Tours. By that time it was<br />
already standard practice for pilgrims who were curious or wishing to<br />
<strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
19
satisfy a special devotion to pass from one route to another by taking<br />
bypasses or side-roads.<br />
Whatever itinerary was taken, stage by stage, the pilgrim accomplished<br />
a series <strong>of</strong> pilgrimages, recounted by Aimery Picaud in chapter VIII <strong>of</strong> his<br />
“Pilgrim’s Guide”, where he enumerates the “holy bodies that rest along<br />
the road to Santiago and that pilgrims should visit”. Some pilgrims did<br />
not hesitate to detour through famous pilgrimage sites more or less<br />
distant from the major routes, such as Le Mont-Saint-Michel,<br />
Rocamadour or Montserrat.<br />
The rocky outcrop that forms the foundation <strong>of</strong> Le Mont-Saint-Michel was<br />
formed 600 million years ago. It consists <strong>of</strong> a cone <strong>of</strong> granite, 80 meters<br />
high and is situated in a bay which covers 45,000 hectares.<br />
This is also the scene <strong>of</strong> the most spectacular spring high tides in the<br />
world.<br />
Twice per month during spring high tide, the entire Mont-Saint-Michel is<br />
completely surrounded by water. At dead low tide, the water can draw<br />
back as much as 18km. The tide height can fall and rise by as much as<br />
15 meters (the height <strong>of</strong> a 5 storey building). The speed <strong>of</strong> the incoming<br />
high tide is <strong>of</strong>ten equated to that <strong>of</strong> a “galloping horse”. Over the centuries,<br />
many pilgrims who were caught on the flood plain en route to the<br />
Mount, unaware <strong>of</strong> this phenomenon, met a gruesome end.<br />
The site consists <strong>of</strong> a village, a fortress and a sanctuary. These structures<br />
were primarily established through three major forces; a) political power<br />
(a gift <strong>of</strong> money from a powerful ruler), b) gifts made by the Faithful<br />
(<strong>of</strong>ferings according to one’s means, through a Will, to places <strong>of</strong><br />
pilgrimage which the testator has visited during his lifetime), and, c)<br />
capital gains produced by the monastery’s feudal and land-owing domain<br />
(farms, mills, forests).<br />
The general shape <strong>of</strong> the village below the abbey church is structured<br />
around a main street, starting in the south and looping upwards to the<br />
entry <strong>of</strong> the monastery, which looks east. A maze <strong>of</strong> little streets is grafted<br />
onto the main street.<br />
Except for a few stones taken from the Mount itself, all the other building<br />
material came from the Causey islands, 35km away. The building blocks<br />
were cut and shaped on site to save weight and then transported to the<br />
Mount on barges, as the tides permitted.<br />
The Revelatio ecclesiae sancti michaelis, written in the middle <strong>of</strong> the<br />
9th century tell that, according to oral tradition, in 708, Aubert, bishop<br />
<strong>of</strong> Avranches, saw the Archangel Michael in a dream, who asked him<br />
to build an oratory in his honour, on the north slope <strong>of</strong> Mount Tomb.<br />
This was the name given to a small island, favourable for meditation<br />
and prefiguring spiritual elevation, which were regularly visited by 7th<br />
century hermits who were attracted by the solitude <strong>of</strong> the peak emerging<br />
from the water. In 927, William Long-Sword, son <strong>of</strong> Rollon, 1st Duke <strong>of</strong><br />
Normandy, granted important donations to the abbey. The year 1154 saw<br />
the arrival <strong>of</strong> the great abbot Robert de Thorigny, under whose<br />
20 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />
leadership (1154 – 1186) the abbey reached the peak <strong>of</strong> its influence.<br />
Robert also tried to increase the renown <strong>of</strong> the Mount’s pilgrimage,<br />
attracting a growing number <strong>of</strong> pilgrims whose <strong>of</strong>ferings allowed the<br />
construction <strong>of</strong> new buildings. The “Gothic Wonder” was eventually<br />
completed in 1314. During the 100-Years War (1337 – 1453),<br />
Le Mont-Saint-Michel was the seat <strong>of</strong> a garrison and was transformed into<br />
an impregnable citadel. In 1789, the Revolution chased out the last <strong>of</strong> the<br />
monks. Transformed into a prison, the abbey sheltered rebellious priests<br />
or royalist rebels from Western France.<br />
Le Mont-Saint-Michel was classified as a historical monument in 1874.<br />
Its restoration was undertaken and completed in 1965 with the arrival <strong>of</strong><br />
monks from Saint-Wandrille and Bec-Hellouin. In 1979,<br />
Mont-Saint-Michel and its bay were added to the UNESCO list <strong>of</strong> World<br />
Heritage Sites and were listed with criteria such as cultural, historical,<br />
and architectural significance, as well as human-created and natural<br />
beauty.<br />
Related Information<br />
• <strong>St</strong>. Michael – (Hebrew: Mi/ka/el – “who {is} like unto God?”).<br />
Patron Saint <strong>of</strong> heights. In the literature <strong>of</strong> Revelation he was the warrior angel, fighting the Evil <strong>of</strong> the fallen Angel,<br />
<strong>of</strong> the Devil, embodied in a dragon.<br />
• <strong>St</strong>. Michael’s Mount, Cornwall, United Kingdom: http://www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk/<br />
Historically, <strong>St</strong> Michael’s Mount was a Cornish counterpart <strong>of</strong> Mont-Saint-Michel in Normandy, France. Religious<br />
roots: church built on the summit <strong>of</strong> the island after the Norman invasion when <strong>St</strong> Michael’s Mount was granted to<br />
the Benedictine Abbey <strong>of</strong> Le Mont-Saint-Michel in France. <strong>St</strong> Michael’s Mount (Cornish: Karrek Loos y’n Koos) is<br />
a tidal island located 366 m (400 yd) <strong>of</strong>f the Mount’s Bay coast <strong>of</strong> Cornwall, England, United Kingdom. It is united<br />
with the town <strong>of</strong> Marazion by a man-made causeway, passable only at mid to low tide, made <strong>of</strong> granite setts. The<br />
island exhibits a combination <strong>of</strong> slate and granite.<br />
• Chapel <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> Michael d’Aiguilhe, Le Puy-en-Velay, Auvergne, France<br />
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/france/le-puy-st-michael-chapel<br />
The Chapel <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> Michael d’Aiguilhe (Chapelle Saint Michel d’Aiguilhe) is a fascinating little pilgrimage chapel<br />
perched atop a needle (aiguilhe) <strong>of</strong> rock in Le Puy-en-Velay, Auvergne. Jutting dramatically towards heaven, the<br />
rock needle has been a sacred place for thousands <strong>of</strong> years: a prehistoric dolmen was built there and the Romans<br />
dedicated it to Mercury before the Christians built a chapel to <strong>St</strong>. Michael. The Chapel <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>. Michael was built by<br />
Bishop Godescalc and the deacon Trianus in 962AD. It was a simple shrine built on a central plan: a square<br />
sanctuary a tiny apsidole on each side. This original sanctuary and two <strong>of</strong> the apsidoles still survive today.<br />
The chapel attracted many pilgrims, especially since Le Puy was the starting point for one <strong>of</strong> the main routes to<br />
Santiago de Compostela.<br />
<strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
21
Reflections<br />
“This too shall pass”<br />
by Fr. Frank de Gouveia<br />
The middle part <strong>of</strong> the journey can be the<br />
hardest. On the French Camino it comes in<br />
the form <strong>of</strong> the long, flat, hot and boring Meseta.<br />
The excitement <strong>of</strong> the first stage <strong>of</strong> pilgrimage is<br />
over and the great expectation one feels on entering Galicia is still a long<br />
way <strong>of</strong>f. All one can do is to keep your head down, put one foot in front<br />
<strong>of</strong> the other and remind oneself <strong>of</strong> what a Zen friend once told me:<br />
Every advance is a dance!<br />
In her book, The Way <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>ars and <strong>St</strong>ones, <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>n-born Wilna<br />
Wilkinson tell the story <strong>of</strong> the bronze shield given to each soldier<br />
during the time <strong>of</strong> the Roman Empire. It was a valuable defence against<br />
the enemy and had many other ordinary uses as well. Like the scallop<br />
shell, for instance, it could also be used to scoop up refreshing water<br />
from streams along the way! On each soldier’s personal shield was<br />
inscribed the words: THIS TOO SHALL PASS. And this was a shield<br />
against the enemy within. No matter what the soldier was going through,<br />
he was always reminded <strong>of</strong> this comforting truth. Whatever the ‘this’ is, it<br />
will not last forever.<br />
The pilgrim knows this. Nothing is permanent. As we walk along the<br />
Way, the terrain changes, our companions change and we change.<br />
On those difficult stretches, when the load on our backs or in our hearts<br />
is weighing us down, when we are stuck in a rut or when what is going<br />
on around us or within us is just too overwhelming, then that is the time<br />
to remind ourselves: THIS TOO SHALL PASS. If we can remember it,<br />
then we can feel the comfort and reassurance this truth brings.<br />
The sixteenth century Spanish mystic, <strong>St</strong>. Teresa <strong>of</strong> Avila, reminded<br />
herself <strong>of</strong> this by writing it on her bookmark:<br />
Let nothing disturb you<br />
Let nothing frighten you<br />
All things pass away:<br />
God never changes.<br />
Patience obtains all things.<br />
One who has God<br />
Lacks nothing<br />
God alone suffices.<br />
Camino Routes<br />
Lourdes to Pamplona on the Aragones Route<br />
by Silvia Nilsen<br />
Routes<br />
The Camino Aragones is one <strong>of</strong> the most ruggedly beautiful Camino<br />
routes in Spain. From Pyrenean grandeur at the 1600m Col du Somport<br />
the path drops sharply, 400m in 7.5km, into an ancient, crumpled<br />
valley formed by a shallow sea that covered Aragon some 100 million<br />
years ago. In places the lunar landscape is spectacular with ingrained<br />
fossils <strong>of</strong> marine microorganisms in the grey rocks.<br />
Long before Charlemagne led his 3rd expedition across the Pyrenees in<br />
the 8th C to become Master <strong>of</strong> Spain, the “Summus Portus” was traversed<br />
by Romans, Vandals, Visigoths, Arabs and merchants.<br />
We started our journey on 5th June 2009 in the pilgrimage town <strong>of</strong><br />
Lourdes following the blue and yellow Amis <strong>St</strong> Jacques markers <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Via Tolosana for three days along muddy paths through the damp, heavily<br />
forested Pyrénées-Atlantiques as far as Oloron <strong>St</strong> Marie. From there we<br />
turned south, trekking through the green valley <strong>of</strong> the river Gave d’Aspe<br />
and the Parc National des Pyrénées to the Somport Pass.<br />
The first town we stopped at in Spain was Canfranc International<br />
Estación, which developed around a stunning (now abandoned) 1920’s<br />
art deco railway station featured in the film Dr Zhivago. Just below the<br />
Puerto are the ruins <strong>of</strong> the Hospital de Santa Cristina described by Aimery<br />
<strong>22</strong> <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> <strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
23
Picaud in the Codex Calixtinus, as one <strong>of</strong> the world’s three great pilgrim<br />
hospices after Jerusalem and the San Bernado (in the Swiss Alps).<br />
From Canfranc to Jaca the landscape is noticeably drier with rocky gorges<br />
and stony, gravel paths clinging to scree slopes barely held together by<br />
patches <strong>of</strong> dense gorse, heather and broom. Here the Camino markers<br />
change from blue and yellow to the ‘flechas amarilla’ <strong>of</strong> the Spanish<br />
Caminos.<br />
Jaca, one <strong>of</strong> two largish towns on the Aragones route, was the last to fall<br />
to the Moors in 715. It became the capital <strong>of</strong> the tiny Kingdom <strong>of</strong> Aragon<br />
and was an important pilgrimage town with at least four pilgrim<br />
hospices. From Jaca we did a detour to San Juan de la Pena – <strong>St</strong> John <strong>of</strong><br />
the Rock - a mountain monastery built under the overhang <strong>of</strong> an<br />
enormous sinclinal rock (the pena).<br />
The 7.5km path down the mountain is an incredibly steep, torturous trail<br />
to Santa Cruz de la Serós. Perched on impossible ledges, some only<br />
10cm wide, rough stone tracks twist downhill into the abyss with<br />
nothing to save you if you trip or slip.<br />
From Santa Cruz we followed the Rio Aragon to Santa Celia de Jaca,<br />
Artieda, Ruesta, Izco, Tiebas and Eunate. We walked against the pilgrim<br />
tide from Eunate to Pamplona.We flew to Toulouse on Iberia and got a<br />
train to Lourdes. Lourdes to Somport ± 100km and Somport to Pamplona<br />
± 170km. There is pilgrim accommodation on both routes.<br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> News - National<br />
Member <strong>St</strong>atistics<br />
From <strong>Edition</strong> <strong>22</strong> onwards, we publish the<br />
graphs that represent our national<br />
membership as per region.<br />
Our Membership List that appeared in our<br />
previous editions has found a permanent<br />
home on our<br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> Website, as has much <strong>of</strong> the<br />
repetitive information previously included<br />
in <strong>Amigos</strong>.<br />
Please visit our Web Page at<br />
http://www.csj<strong>of</strong>sa.za.org/ for the latest<br />
updates to the Membership List that the<br />
Webmaster will post on a regular basis.<br />
On the Right: <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> 2009 Membership Pr<strong>of</strong>ile -<br />
Per Region<br />
Western Cape<br />
Free <strong>St</strong>ate<br />
<strong>South</strong>ern Cape<br />
North West<br />
Eastern Cape<br />
Limpopo<br />
Kwazulu-Natal<br />
Northern Cape<br />
Gauteng<br />
Overseas<br />
Region No.<br />
Western Cape 172<br />
Free <strong>St</strong>ate 6<br />
<strong>South</strong>ern Cape 26<br />
North West Province 1<br />
Eastern Cape 13<br />
Limpopo 4<br />
Kwazulu-Natal 15<br />
Northern Cape 2<br />
Gauteng 61<br />
Overseas 4<br />
Total 304<br />
24 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> <strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
25<br />
2.0%<br />
0.3%<br />
1.3%<br />
0.7%<br />
4.3%<br />
1.3%<br />
8.6%<br />
4.9%<br />
20.1%<br />
56.6%
<strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
Photo <strong>St</strong>ories<br />
At the AGM: 21 February 2010 -<br />
Francine (seated far right), delivering her<br />
inauguration speech, as newly elected<br />
chairman<br />
Left to right:<br />
Andrée Lombard (Treasurer),<br />
Mark Pickering (Vice-Chairman) and<br />
Francine Parsons (Chairman)<br />
Ilmo. Señor D Ignacio Garcia -<br />
Valdecasas, Consul General <strong>of</strong> Spain,<br />
after Francine issued him with our<br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> pin badge. We extended a<br />
formal request to the Consul to become<br />
the Patron <strong>of</strong> our <strong>Confraternity</strong>.<br />
See letter <strong>of</strong> acceptance on right<br />
Elmara Willis and Andrée Lombard,<br />
organized our annual Cape Town<br />
“New Pilgrim” Workshop.<br />
2010 already marks the 5th Workshop<br />
which took place on 6 March in<br />
Milnerton. The well-attended workshop<br />
ran like clockwork and many<br />
well-equipped prospective pilgrims left<br />
with everything needed to ensure<br />
a blister-free Camino.<br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> Members attending the<br />
AGM at <strong>St</strong> Paul’s church in Somerset West<br />
on 21 February 2010<br />
25<br />
Patron <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />
Letter <strong>of</strong> acceptance by The Honourable, Senor D Ignacio Garcia-Valdecasas,<br />
Consul General <strong>of</strong> Spain<br />
Dear Members,<br />
We are honored to have the Spanish Consul General, Señor D. Ignacio<br />
García-Valdecasas, accepting our invitation to become the <strong>of</strong>ficial Patron to the<br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> SA. The relationship will be an ongoing one and the<br />
purpose <strong>of</strong> having an <strong>of</strong>ficial Patron is to lend their credibility and high pr<strong>of</strong>ile<br />
support to the <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong>. <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> SA. This honor will help us with<br />
fundraising, campaigning, public relations and attracting new supporters.<br />
He will be attending some <strong>of</strong> our most important functions like <strong>St</strong>. <strong>James</strong> day on<br />
25 July and our AGM.<br />
Francine Parsons<br />
<strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
27
<strong>Confraternity</strong> News - Regional<br />
Gauteng<br />
A Camino inspired Sunday morning<br />
in Pretoria<br />
On Sunday 14 March, about 40<br />
experienced and inexperienced<br />
pilgrims gathered at the<br />
Environmental Education Centre <strong>of</strong><br />
the Pretoria Botanical Gardens to<br />
attend a Camino workshop held by<br />
the Gauteng Chapter <strong>of</strong> the CSJ.<br />
The scenic venue had been<br />
Elmara giving the detail organized courtesy <strong>of</strong> Marinda<br />
Koekemoer and Hester <strong>St</strong>eyn. Hand painted scallop signs pointed the<br />
way to the Centre where we were treated to early morning tea and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
and fresh boccadillos for lunch. After the talks, we were refreshed with<br />
juice and sangria. A tortilla even graced the table, reminding me <strong>of</strong> some<br />
good meals shared along the Camino in Spain. Elmara Willis specially<br />
flew up from Cape Town to present the workshop. A seasoned peregrina,<br />
she has walked several routes <strong>of</strong> the Camino in extreme conditions. She<br />
shared some invaluable advice about her experiences, not to mention<br />
ingenious practical ideas for prospective travellers , rounding it <strong>of</strong>f with<br />
an inspiring presentation <strong>of</strong> photographs taken during her pilgrimages.<br />
Attendees had the opportunity to see first-hand, which items to pack in<br />
their backpacks and were advised on what and what not to take, and<br />
received sound financial and other practical advice in preparation for<br />
their journey. Bernice Brunette gave a heart-warming talk on networking,<br />
reminding us <strong>of</strong> the wonderful people you meet along the way and the<br />
friendships you make. She read some touching messages specially sent to<br />
her for her talk by her Camino amigos – a very special gesture!<br />
Sean closed the presentations, where after people could chat and eat<br />
together. Befitting for a Camino event, we then did a little walk around<br />
the beautiful Gardens together with Elmara.<br />
We were happy to have the opportunity to host the workshop in Pretoria.<br />
For the rest <strong>of</strong> the year, we are planning a possible event for <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> Day<br />
(Feast Day), 25 July 2010, and a hike and chat later in the year. We are<br />
also still looking for extra volunteers to help and welcome new ideas and<br />
assistance for the region.<br />
We wish the Gauteng pilgrims all the best for their journey. It seems as if<br />
most people will be going to Spain during September this year - but some<br />
are leaving next month already.<br />
Buen Camino!<br />
Marita Nortje & Sean <strong>St</strong>ephan, CSJ Gauteng<br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> News - International<br />
News from Spain and the Camino<br />
The timetable for services in the Cathedral this Holy Year is as follows:<br />
• Pilgrims’ Masses: 10:00, 12:00, 13:15, 18:00 and 18:30<br />
• Matins (laudatory morning service) at 9:30.<br />
• Individual confessions (in all languages) are from 8:00 to 13:00 and<br />
from 16:30 to 21:00 every day.<br />
• Communal confessions happen at 11:00 from Monday to Saturday.<br />
• Vespers (evening service) at 18:45<br />
• Prayer vigils at 20:30<br />
• Veneration <strong>of</strong> the tomb and embracing <strong>of</strong> the Apostle’s image are from<br />
9:00 to 14:00 and 16:00 to 20:30 every day.<br />
Tourism <strong>of</strong> the Cathedral complex is from 7:30 to 8:15 and from<br />
28 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> <strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
29<br />
•<br />
•<br />
14:00 to 16:30. No guides are allowed; instead, tourists must use<br />
audio-guides.<br />
Backpacks can no longer be brought into the Cathedral and must be<br />
left in the seminary across Azabacherias.<br />
Opening <strong>of</strong> the HOLY DOOR and Pilgrim <strong>St</strong>atistics<br />
A short video on the opening <strong>of</strong> the Holy Door can be viewed at<br />
http://www.lavozdegalicia.es/galicia/2010/01/01/000312623715957129<br />
83968.htm<br />
• Pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela grew by 16.6% in 2009<br />
• Pilgrims pursuing the Compostela volume issued by the Pilgrim Office<br />
increased from 125,141(2008) to 145,877.<br />
• According to the data handled by the Office <strong>of</strong> the Pilgrim, were<br />
85,945 men who completed the Camino by 59,932 women.<br />
• During 2009, 120,605 pilgrims arrived in Santiago on foot, 24,892 by<br />
bike, 341 on horseback and 39 in wheelchairs.<br />
•<br />
•<br />
Age distribution was as follows: 1,272 children under 12 years, 12,303<br />
between 12 and 18, 34,608 between 18 and 30, 28,670 between 30<br />
and 40, 25,483 between 40 and 50, 24,989 between 50 and 60, and<br />
over 18,552 60.<br />
262 <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>ns arrived in 2009, 274 during 2008 and 262 in 2007.<br />
As to the motive for the pilgrims made the Camino de Santiago, 62,188<br />
<strong>of</strong> the respondents replied that their pilgrimage was exclusively for
eligious reasons. A further 132,491, walked for other reasons while<br />
13,386 (9.18%) said that religion had nothing to do with the reason why<br />
they “hit the trail”.<br />
More than half (79,007) <strong>of</strong> the Compostela pilgrims who applied in 2009<br />
were Spanish and <strong>of</strong> foreign representation, Germany’s was the largest<br />
with 14,789 pilgrims, followed by Italy with 10,341, France 7459,<br />
Portugal in 4854 and 2540 from the U.S.<br />
The path followed by most <strong>of</strong> the pilgrims was the French Way (113,001)<br />
followed by the Portuguese Way (11,956), 9183 ventured on the<br />
Northern Way, 6,254 arrived along the Via de la Plata and 3388 followed<br />
the Primitive Way. The English Way attracted 1793 pilgrims and the<br />
remaining paths counted contributed 302 more.<br />
Camino Short Guides<br />
The CSJ - UK have added a number <strong>of</strong> free downloadable short guides on<br />
their website. http://www.csj.org.uk/guides-online.htm<br />
These include guides to:<br />
• The Voie Littorale: Soulac to Hendaye<br />
• Camino del Salvador - Leon to Oviedo<br />
• Camino Portugués Part 1, Lisbon to Porto and Part 2 Porto to Santiago<br />
• Tunnel Route<br />
• Camino Inglés - el Ferrol to Santiago; and<br />
• Finisterre - Santiago to Finisterre<br />
Please consider giving a donation when you download any <strong>of</strong> their guides.<br />
Organised Camino walk<br />
The Spanish Camino Association <strong>of</strong> Valdeorras (in El Bierzo at the start <strong>of</strong><br />
the Camino Invierno) has organized a 14-day walk, about 18 km a day,<br />
from Ponferrada to Santiago on the Camino de Invierno.<br />
They will organise lodging in albergues or polideportivos (sports centers),<br />
and hope to get a respectable crowd to publicize this new route. The<br />
route is approx 200km long. It leaves the Camino Frances at Ponferrada<br />
and runs south, through the Sil valley via Monforte de Lemos and<br />
Chantada, joining the Camino Sanabrés near Lalín. A guide in Castilian/<br />
Galician is available, with an English/French version planned.<br />
Walking begins on May <strong>22</strong>. Please visit their website for more<br />
information and the email address <strong>of</strong> the president <strong>of</strong> the organization,<br />
who is very responsive and helpful. http://Caminodeinvierno.es/<br />
News from other Confraternities<br />
Message for the Opening <strong>of</strong> the Compostela Holy Year<br />
4-January-2010 - Vatican Information Service<br />
VATICAN CITY, 31 DEC 2009 (VIS) - The Pope has sent a Message to<br />
Archbishop Julian Barrio <strong>of</strong> Santiago de Compostela, Spain, for the<br />
solemn opening <strong>of</strong> the Compostela Holy Year which took place this<br />
evening in the cathedral <strong>of</strong> Santiago. The Holy Year is celebrated in years<br />
in which the feast <strong>of</strong> the Apostle <strong>James</strong> (25 July) falls on a Sunday.<br />
In the message, which Archbishop Barrio read out during the course <strong>of</strong><br />
the Eucharistic celebration that followed the opening <strong>of</strong> the Holy Door,<br />
Benedict XVI writes that the theme <strong>of</strong> this latest Compostela Holy year<br />
- “On pilgrimage towards the light” - and the pastoral letter written for<br />
the occasion - “Pilgrims <strong>of</strong> faith and witnesses <strong>of</strong> the risen Christ” - are in<br />
faithful keeping with tradition and “re-present that tradition as a call to<br />
evangelisation to the men and women <strong>of</strong> today, recalling the essentially<br />
pilgrim nature <strong>of</strong> the Church and <strong>of</strong> Christians in this world”.<br />
“Pilgrims, open to wonder and to transcendence, must allow<br />
themselves to be instructed by the Word <strong>of</strong> God so as to divest their faith<br />
<strong>of</strong> ungrounded beliefs and fears”, the Pope writes. “This is what the Lord<br />
did with His disciples who, dazed and discouraged, traveled the road to<br />
Emmaus”.<br />
The Holy Father asks God “to accompany pilgrims, to make Himself<br />
known and enter their hearts. ... This is the true goal, the grace which the<br />
mere physical journeying <strong>of</strong> the Way cannot achieve alone, and which<br />
leads pilgrims to become witnesses before others to the fact that Christ<br />
lives and is our undying hope <strong>of</strong> salvation”.<br />
“During this Holy Year, in keeping with the current Year for Priests, a<br />
decisive role falls to the clergy, whose spirit <strong>of</strong> welcome and commitment<br />
to the faithful and to pilgrims has to be particularly generous”, writes<br />
Pope Benedict. In this context he calls on priests to pay particular heed<br />
to “the administration <strong>of</strong> the Sacraments <strong>of</strong> Penance and the Eucharist,<br />
because the most sought-after, valuable and characteristic element <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Holy Year is forgiveness and the encounter with the living Christ”.<br />
Benedict XVI likewise expresses his “particular closeness to the pilgrims<br />
who are arriving and will continue to arrive in Santiago”, inviting them<br />
“to treasure the pr<strong>of</strong>ound experiences <strong>of</strong> faith, charity and fraternity they<br />
encounter on their journey, and to seek especially to live the Way as an<br />
interior experience, responding to the call that the Lord makes to each<br />
one <strong>of</strong> them”.<br />
“I invite them too”, he concludes, “as they say their prayers, not to forget<br />
those who were unable to accompany them, their families and friends,<br />
the sick and the needy, emigrants, those whose faith is fragile and the<br />
People <strong>of</strong> God with their pastors”.<br />
From - EWTNnews - Global Catholic Network<br />
30 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> <strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
31
The Marketplace<br />
Dear friend,<br />
We have known you from http://www.santiago-compostela.net that<br />
you walked the Camino de Santiago. We are very glad you did, and<br />
hope you had a great experience. We are Academia Iria Flavia, a<br />
Spanish school in Santiago de Compostela, and we have something<br />
that may interest you or some <strong>of</strong> your friends: our Spanish on the<br />
Camino de Santiago Programme. From O Cebreiro to Santiago, 6<br />
days to enjoy the superb Galician gastronomy and the comfort <strong>of</strong> rural<br />
tourism; 6 days walking in the company <strong>of</strong> a pr<strong>of</strong>essional guide,<br />
learning about the origins and history <strong>of</strong> El Camino, the monuments<br />
we come across, the economy and folk culture <strong>of</strong> the places we go<br />
through... Please visit our website for further details:<br />
http://ifspanish.com/courses/pilgrimsway/<br />
Our next Camino programme will run from 09 to 15 May, and we<br />
are <strong>of</strong>fering a last minute discount <strong>of</strong> €150. If you are interested,<br />
or know anyone who could be, please remember that application<br />
deadline is 16 April.<br />
Thank you very much for your attention and greetings from Santiago<br />
de Compostela :)<br />
Victoria Vázquez<br />
Book, CD and DVD Reviews<br />
The characters in my fictional tale (see synopsis<br />
below) travel through the same towns and villages as<br />
the pilgrims who walk the Camino do and reading it<br />
might inspire them to follow the main character’s route<br />
as they walk the Camino de Santiago Trail.<br />
- Thea Hughes<br />
Buen Camino - beyond the journey, debut novel <strong>of</strong><br />
Thea Hughes, won first prize in A Woman’s Write<br />
Fiction Book Competition. It tells the story <strong>of</strong> Ana, a<br />
young woman rejected by her mother and sexually<br />
abused by her father as a child, who has carried the weight <strong>of</strong> her traumatic<br />
experiences long enough. At the age <strong>of</strong> thirty, she walks across<br />
Spain on the 764-kilometer medieval pilgrim trail, the Camino de Santiago,<br />
discovering its colourful history, myths, legends and beautiful Spanish<br />
countryside, on a life-changing quest to end her childhood pain.<br />
The overwhelming physical demands <strong>of</strong> the walk add to Ana’s emotional<br />
suffering. Through an unlikely friendship with Richard, a gentle, older<br />
man in the early stages <strong>of</strong> Alzheimer’s, she learns how to let go <strong>of</strong> the<br />
burden she has carried for so long. Richard teaches Ana to leave the past<br />
behind and to live in the here and now - as his illness has forced him to<br />
do. These two become improbable friends: one who cannot remember<br />
and one who cannot forget.<br />
It is along the Camino de Santiago path that Ana’s spiritual journey takes<br />
place, for it is here she finds acceptance, friendship and love, as well as<br />
the courage to take on her own journey <strong>of</strong> the rest <strong>of</strong> her life.<br />
If anyone wishes to purchase a copy <strong>of</strong> the book it can be ordered from -<br />
scintillabooksales@gmail.com. The cost to you would be NZ$20.00 plus<br />
postage.<br />
Thea has also sent a number <strong>of</strong> copies for distribution at our Camino<br />
workshops. Gordon Bell has about 30 copies on hand in Cape Town.<br />
Contact him at 021-7621776<br />
IN BETWEEN - Walking the Pilgrimage to<br />
Santiago de Compostela<br />
Producer: <strong>St</strong>urla Pilskog, Norwegian film-maker<br />
Genre: Documentary<br />
Running time: 48 minutes<br />
Languages: English subtitles:Norwegian, Spanish, French, German<br />
Cost: 21.90 euro (4.90 euro to watch it on the Internet.)<br />
IN BETWEEN is the film for whoever wants a unique and authentic<br />
insight to the pilgrimage to Santiago or for past pilgrims who would like to<br />
bring back good memories...<br />
With almost 25kg <strong>of</strong> camera equipment in his backpack, <strong>St</strong>urla walked the<br />
whole journey from <strong>St</strong>. Jean Pied de Port, in <strong>South</strong>ern France, to Santiago.<br />
On the road, he met pilgrims from all over the World. They had all different<br />
motives <strong>of</strong> walking, and in the film, we follow four <strong>of</strong> them more closely,<br />
walking in the great landscapes <strong>of</strong> the Camino. The result is a charming,<br />
beautifully filmed, 48-minute documentary with a musical soundtrack by<br />
Børge Petersen-Øverleir, well-known Norwegian guitarist. The film highlights<br />
four pilgrims he meets on the way - Mari, Andre, Heinz and Walter.<br />
Although this documentary is not intended to be a promotional video, it<br />
would have been useful to have named the villages, towns, monuments and<br />
other special places highlighted in the film. There is a lovely clip at the end<br />
with the nun singing in the cathedral during the Pilgrims’ Mass.<br />
Available from: www.Caminosantiago.no<br />
32 <strong>Confraternity</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>St</strong> <strong>James</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> <strong>Amigos</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> no. <strong>22</strong> - March 2010<br />
33
Pilgrim Images - Past and Present<br />
Photograph by Denise Hopkins, Hontanas, June 2005<br />
“Photo taken at the end <strong>of</strong> a long hot day. Thought I was going to finally use my bathing<br />
costume as the village had a swimming pool but it was not to be as it was locked and<br />
after taking a shower a “cerveza con limone” seemed more appealing.”<br />
<strong>South</strong> <strong>Africa</strong>ʼs Favourite<br />
Outdoor <strong>St</strong>ore for over 75 Years<br />
Call 08600-34000 or visit www.capeunionmart.co.za. <strong>St</strong>ores nationwide. Products subject to availability.
Contact information<br />
Executive Committee<br />
• Chairman: Francine Parsons 082 771 0500 or 021 852 6290<br />
e-mail: francineparsons@gmail.com<br />
• Vice-Chairman: Mark Pickering e-mail: mpi@somcol.co.za<br />
• Treasurer: Andreé Lombard tel 021 552 2525<br />
e-mail andreelombard@absamail.co.za<br />
Regional Representatives<br />
•<br />
•<br />
•<br />
Kwazulu/Natal:<br />
Vacant - Awaiting response from nominated member<br />
<strong>South</strong>ern Cape:<br />
Knysna: Denise Crain tel 044-382 2480<br />
e-mail: knysnabookexch@telkomsa.net<br />
George, Oudtshoorn and Mossel Bay Area:<br />
Philda Benkenstein tel 044 874 7999 or 082 <strong>22</strong>6 9466<br />
e-mail: benkenstein@mweb.co.za<br />
Gauteng:<br />
Sean <strong>St</strong>ephan tel 011 371 8684 (w) cell 0824184488<br />
e-mail: Sean.<strong>St</strong>ephan@fnb.co.za<br />
Marita Nortje tel 072 507 5188 e-mail: mapano50@hotmail.com<br />
Please visit our website at www.csj<strong>of</strong>sa.za.org for information about:<br />
•<br />
•<br />
•<br />
Working Groups and Subcommittees<br />
Membership and Pilgrim supplies<br />
<strong>Confraternity</strong> Library<br />
website: www.csj<strong>of</strong>sa.za.org