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TRAVELLER<br />
Just<br />
Dessert<br />
A SUGAR-COATED<br />
GUIDE TO AMSTERDAM’S<br />
BEST SWEET TREATS<br />
Where to fi nd early snow<br />
Party like it’s 1969 in Berlin<br />
Art at the Hadron Collider<br />
Our network’s best Xmas gifts<br />
An ode to Thessaloniki<br />
NOVEMBER <strong>2011</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU
NOVEMBER <strong>2011</strong> | ISSUE 119<br />
THE WORD WHICH<br />
JUMPS to mind when<br />
looking through the<br />
Autumn edition of<br />
Boutique and Bistro is,<br />
simply, gorgeous.<br />
Indulge in a present<br />
for yourself, or spoil<br />
someone special.<br />
For the ladies we<br />
have the fantastic and<br />
feminine Jimmy Choo<br />
fragrance or the luxurious<br />
Bvlgari Jasmin<br />
Noir Jewel Charm.<br />
New onboard we<br />
also have ck Shock<br />
for him and for her; be<br />
sure to take advantage<br />
of a great saving by<br />
buying both for just<br />
£48/€62.<br />
Spoil your skin with<br />
Clarins Multi Active<br />
day and night creams.<br />
You can buy both for<br />
just £60/€77.50.<br />
We also have some<br />
gorgeous gifts and<br />
fashion accessories on<br />
page 16 and the latest<br />
travel technology on<br />
pages 22 and 23 of<br />
Boutique and Bistro.<br />
Take advantage and<br />
enjoy our great value<br />
wine deal, two bottles<br />
of white, red or rose for<br />
just £7/€8.50.<br />
Don’t forget to check<br />
out our menu options<br />
at the back of the<br />
brochure, as there are<br />
some great savings.<br />
Now sit back, relax<br />
and enjoy the comfort<br />
of shopping from your<br />
own seat.<br />
92<br />
FEATURES<br />
46 Meat Market<br />
Get a taste for fl esh<br />
in Stockholm<br />
48 Portrait of<br />
an Artist<br />
An audience with<br />
Ferran Adrià, the<br />
world’s best chef<br />
54 City of Dreams<br />
Author Victoria Hislop<br />
on why she fell in love<br />
with Thessaloniki<br />
62 A-Z of<br />
Christmas Gifts<br />
Your present list –<br />
sorted by the network!<br />
68 Art Collider<br />
Take a trip to the<br />
Geneva laboratory<br />
where artists are<br />
inspired by antimatter<br />
74 Hollywood on<br />
the Tiber<br />
As Rome’s legendary<br />
Cinecitta studio opens<br />
its doors to the public,<br />
we tell its story<br />
80 Just Dessert<br />
Why Amsterdam is in<br />
the midst of a sweettoothed<br />
revolution<br />
92 Maroc Rock<br />
Music producer Nick<br />
Wilde on fi nding new<br />
sounds in Marrakech<br />
96 Viennese Whirl<br />
Vienna’s newest hotspot<br />
with a boho edge<br />
80<br />
COVER IMAGE MARIANO HERRERA. PHOTOS TIM WHITE, HUGH RHODES contents<br />
TRAVELLER | 3
NOVEMBER <strong>2011</strong> | ISSUE 119<br />
contents<br />
THE BUZZ<br />
10 Lyon festival of lights<br />
12 Gossip from across the network<br />
15 Endangered birds | Christmas markets<br />
17 Amsterdam bikes | Stockholm caverns |<br />
kids festivals<br />
18 Istanbul shopping | Malaga retreat |<br />
Performance in Antwerp<br />
20 Ernest Hemingway’s lost pics<br />
22 The must see, no 1: Sphinxes<br />
25 Neighbourhood Watch: Barcelona<br />
26 Beaujolais nouveau | Manchester BBQ |<br />
Portuguese horse fair<br />
28 Where to fi nd the best early snow<br />
30 Get into Berlin’s GDR nostalgia<br />
32 We meet artist Jorge Rodriguez-Gerada<br />
34 European City of Culture 2012<br />
37 Book ahead and don’t miss out<br />
38 Hotel and hostel news and reviews<br />
42 Restaurant reviews<br />
LAST WORD<br />
181 Meet the crew<br />
182 Passenger info<br />
184 España<br />
185 Italia<br />
186 Suisse/<br />
Schweiz<br />
187 Deutschland<br />
4 | TRAVELLER<br />
188 France<br />
189 UK<br />
190 Business travel<br />
192 Winning wine<br />
194 Comedian<br />
Rachel Arieff on<br />
Barcelona<br />
28<br />
18<br />
22<br />
EDITORIAL & ART<br />
Editor Simon Kurs<br />
Deputy Editor Sarah Warwick<br />
Art Directors Blue Buxton, Mat Wiggins<br />
Destinations Editor Amy Dennis<br />
Picture Editor Patrick Llewellyn<br />
Fashion Director Nino Bauti<br />
Sub-Editor Liz Granirer<br />
Destinations Sub-Editor Julie Alpine<br />
Design Intern Nick Doyle<br />
Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />
easyJet Brand Livery Executive<br />
(General contact for magazine) Natalie Yeung<br />
Flight Bookings easyJet.com<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
Group Publishing Director Mark Duke<br />
Associate Publisher Kevin Smith<br />
European Key Account Manager<br />
Darren Paternoster<br />
European Sales Team Tara Brady, Phil Castle,<br />
Nishan Gumani, Manuela Festa,<br />
Irving Landeros, Katja Kunka<br />
Sales recruitment<br />
joinus@ink-global.com<br />
INK<br />
CEO Jeff rey O’Rourke<br />
Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />
Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal<br />
Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />
easyJet TRAVELLER is published<br />
on behalf of easyJet by Ink<br />
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Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
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Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser<br />
in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company, or<br />
its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.<br />
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IS PRINTED ON 100%<br />
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hotels<br />
Bali • Biloxi • Chicago • Hollywood, FL<br />
Las Vegas • Macau • Orlando • Pattaya • Penang<br />
Punta Cana • San Diego • Singapore • Tampa<br />
casinos<br />
Biloxi • Hollywood, FL • Las Vegas<br />
Macau • Punta Cana • Tampa<br />
live<br />
Biloxi • Hollywood, FL<br />
Las Vegas: The Joint • Orlando<br />
cafes<br />
United States<br />
Atlanta<br />
Atlantic City<br />
Baltimore<br />
Biloxi<br />
Boston<br />
Chicago<br />
Cleveland<br />
Dallas<br />
Denver<br />
Destin<br />
Detroit<br />
Foxwoods<br />
Gatlinburg<br />
Hollywood, CA<br />
on Hollywood Blvd.<br />
Hollywood, CA<br />
at Universal CityWalk<br />
Hollywood, FL<br />
Honolulu<br />
Houston<br />
Indianapolis<br />
Key West<br />
Lake Tahoe<br />
Las Vegas<br />
Las Vegas<br />
at Hard Rock Hotel<br />
Louisville<br />
Maui<br />
Memphis<br />
Miami<br />
Myrtle Beach<br />
Nashville<br />
New Orleans<br />
New York<br />
Niagara Falls<br />
Orlando<br />
Philadelphia<br />
Phoenix<br />
Pittsburgh<br />
San Antonio<br />
San Diego<br />
San Francisco<br />
Seattle<br />
St. Louis<br />
Tampa<br />
Washington, DC<br />
Yankee Stadium<br />
Canada<br />
Niagara Falls<br />
Ottawa<br />
Toronto<br />
Mexico<br />
Central America<br />
Acapulco<br />
Cabo San Lucas<br />
Cancún<br />
Costa Maya<br />
Cozumel<br />
Mexico City<br />
Panama<br />
Puerto Vallarta<br />
Punta Langosta<br />
Caribbean<br />
Aruba<br />
Cayman Islands<br />
Nassau<br />
Punta Cana<br />
Santo Domingo<br />
St. Maarten<br />
South America<br />
Belo Horizonte<br />
Bogotá<br />
Buenos Aires<br />
Caracas<br />
Cartagena<br />
Margarita Island<br />
Medellin<br />
Pacific Rim<br />
Fiji<br />
Guam<br />
Saipan<br />
Surfers Paradise<br />
Sydney<br />
Europe<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Athens<br />
Barcelona<br />
Berlin<br />
Bucharest<br />
Cologne<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Dublin<br />
Florence<br />
Glyfada<br />
Gothenburg<br />
Hamburg<br />
Krakow<br />
Lisbon<br />
Madrid<br />
Mallorca<br />
Malta<br />
Marbella<br />
Moscow<br />
Munich<br />
Oslo<br />
Paris<br />
Prague<br />
Rome<br />
Stockholm<br />
Venice<br />
Warsaw<br />
UK<br />
Edinburgh<br />
London<br />
Manchester<br />
Middle East<br />
Africa<br />
Bahrain<br />
Beirut<br />
Hurghada<br />
Kuwait City<br />
Sharm El Sheikh<br />
Asia<br />
Bali<br />
Bangkok<br />
Beijing<br />
Bengaluru<br />
Fukuoka<br />
Ho Chi Minh City<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Hyderabad<br />
Jakarta<br />
Kuala Lumpur<br />
Makati<br />
Mumbai<br />
Narita<br />
New Delhi<br />
Osaka<br />
Osaka, Universal<br />
Pattaya<br />
Penang<br />
Phuket<br />
Pune<br />
Sentosa<br />
Singapore<br />
Singapore Changi Airport<br />
Tokyo<br />
Tokyo, Uyeno-Eki<br />
Yokohama<br />
hotels coming soon<br />
Abu Dhabi • Dubai • Hungary • Panama Megapolis<br />
casinos coming soon<br />
Hungary<br />
cafes coming soon<br />
Brussels • Budapest • Chennai • Colombo • Dubai<br />
Hanoi • Limassol • Macau • Melaka • Nabq<br />
Nicosia • San José • Santiago
Does the taxman<br />
owe you money?<br />
We can help<br />
you collect it.<br />
0121 228 7178<br />
info@hedge-tax.co.uk<br />
www.hedge-tax.co.uk<br />
Do you own a buy-to-let, commercial or<br />
holiday let property?<br />
If so, the taxman could owe you money.<br />
If you pay income tax on income<br />
from any source and want to<br />
claim back tax paid in the last<br />
two years, or cut future tax bills,<br />
we could help.<br />
Please don’t assume your<br />
accountant has claimed<br />
this allowance for you.<br />
Our experience indicates<br />
he probably hasn’t.<br />
Call us to fi nd out how much<br />
tax you could get back.<br />
We can quickly provide<br />
a free illustration.<br />
We do not replace your<br />
accountant but provide the<br />
reports for a claim to HMRC.<br />
You could claim between<br />
7.5% and 25% of the purchase<br />
price as a tax allowance. On a<br />
holiday let costing £200,000<br />
this could mean a tax allowance<br />
of £50,000 to offset against<br />
your taxable income.<br />
You need to act quickly to claim<br />
back tax from 2009/10 and<br />
2010/11 before the tax paid is<br />
lost forever.<br />
USE IT<br />
OR<br />
LOSE IT<br />
If you own buy-to-let, commercial<br />
or holiday let property, the taxman<br />
could owe you money.<br />
The legislation is about to change –<br />
claim now or lose your tax<br />
rebate forever.<br />
Call or email for<br />
more information.<br />
Tel: 0121 228 7178<br />
Email: info@hedge-tax.co.uk
*The arrangements for a holiday booked on the easyJet holidays website are made by easyJet, acting as principal for fl ights and as disclosed<br />
agent for travel insurance, car rental and airport parking; and by Lowcostbeds acting as agent for accommodation and transfers.<br />
BIENVENIDO | BIENVENUE | BENVENUTO | WILLKOMMEN<br />
WELCOME<br />
WE’RE ALWAYS THINKING about just what<br />
it is that makes a great passenger experience.<br />
The answer is: several things.<br />
Firstly, we fi rmly believe that people make a<br />
diff erence. Our cabin crew and pilots are not<br />
only the face of this airline, they’re also there to<br />
ensure your fl ight is safe and pleasant. That’s<br />
why we run the easyJet Spirit Awards, where<br />
our passengers can nominate those on board<br />
who have excelled. You can see this month’s<br />
winner on p.182, and also make your own<br />
nomination.<br />
Of course, value for money is also crucial.<br />
The easyJet Holidays website has now<br />
launched its fi rst ski-holiday programme with<br />
resorts to suit all, including Tignes, Val Thorens<br />
and Les Arcs. Not only is it great value, it’s<br />
fl exible too: as well as traditional seven- and<br />
Siempre nos preguntamos<br />
qué es lo que hace que un<br />
vuelo sea extraordinario. Y la<br />
respuesta es: varias cosas.<br />
Primero, creemos que las personas<br />
marcan la diferencia. Por ello<br />
celebramos los easyJet Spirit Awards,<br />
en los que nuestros pasajeros pueden<br />
nominar al personal de cabina y a los<br />
pilotos que más les han gustado.<br />
Puedes consultar el ganador de<br />
este mes en la pág. 184, y votar a tu<br />
candidato.<br />
El tiempo es fundamental,<br />
especialmente para los pasajeros de<br />
negocios. Hemos invertido en nuestra<br />
red- por ejemplo, ahora operamos hasta<br />
150 vuelos a Londres Gatwick, 79 a<br />
Ginebra y 43 a Ámsterdam.<br />
Por último, está la puntualidad. Me<br />
complace anunciar que, en septiembre,<br />
el 81,9% de nuestros vuelos salieron en<br />
un margen de 15 minutos respecto a<br />
la hora anunciada. Confi amos tanto en<br />
nosotros que te haremos una promesa:<br />
si un pasajero vuela con Flexi Fare entre<br />
el 1 de octubre y el 30 de noviembre<br />
de <strong>2011</strong> se le retrasa el vuelo, llegando<br />
al destino más de 15 minutos tarde,<br />
recibirá un vuelo gratuito a cualquier<br />
destino donde vuela la aerolínea.<br />
¡Que tengas un buen vuelo!<br />
If you have any thoughts<br />
or suggestions, email us at<br />
carolyn@easyJet.com<br />
14-night holidays, skiers can secure a short<br />
midweek or weekend break.<br />
For business passengers, in particular, a<br />
high frequency of daily fl ights is important. So,<br />
we have invested in our network – we now<br />
have up to 150 fl ights a day to London<br />
Gatwick, 79 to Geneva and 45 to Amsterdam.<br />
And fi nally: punctuality. Over the last year<br />
we’ve worked hard to ensure our fl ights take<br />
off and arrive on time. I’m pleased to reveal<br />
that in September, 81.9% of our fl ights<br />
departed within 15 minutes of the advertised<br />
time. We’re so confi dent, we’ll make a promise:<br />
if a passenger fl ying on a Flexi fare between 1<br />
October and 30 November <strong>2011</strong> is delayed on<br />
arrival by over 15 minutes, they’ll receive a free<br />
leisure fl ight to any destination on the network.<br />
Have a great fl ight.<br />
Ci chiediamo sempre cosa<br />
può rendere fantastico un<br />
volo. La risposta è: molte<br />
cose.<br />
Innanzitutto crediamo che le<br />
persone facciano la diff erenza. Ecco<br />
perché abbiamo creato gli easyJet<br />
Spirit Awards, per off rire ai passeggeri<br />
la possibilità di segnalare il personale<br />
di bordo e i piloti che off rono un<br />
servizio eccellente. A pagina 182<br />
troverai il vincitore del mese e potrai<br />
esprimere una tua preferenza.<br />
Inoltre, è fondamentale rispettare<br />
i programmi, soprattutto quelli di chi<br />
viaggia per lavoro. Abbiamo investito<br />
sui nostri collegamenti e, per esempio,<br />
ora abbiamo fi no a 150 voli al giorno<br />
per Londra Gatwick, 79 per Ginevra e<br />
45 per Amsterdam.<br />
Infi ne, è importante la puntualità.<br />
Siamo felici di informarti che a settembre<br />
l’81,9% dei nostri voli è partito<br />
puntuale o entro 15 minuti dall’ora<br />
prevista. Siamo così sicuri del nostro<br />
servizio da fare una promessa: se un<br />
passeggero che viaggia con tariff a<br />
Flexi tra il 1° ottobre e il 30 novembre<br />
<strong>2011</strong> arriverà in ritardo di oltre 15<br />
minuti, riceverà un volo gratuito verso<br />
una nostra destinazione.<br />
Buon volo.<br />
For any queries or further<br />
information, visit easyJet.com<br />
Nous essayons toujours<br />
d’identifi er ce qui fait de votre<br />
voyage une réussite.<br />
Cela réside en plusieurs points :<br />
Tout d’abord, nous pensons que<br />
notre personnel fait la diff érence.<br />
Nous avons ainsi créé les easyJet<br />
Spirit Awards : nos passagers peuvent<br />
désigner les meilleurs équipages et<br />
pilotes. Découvrez notre gagnant du<br />
mois en page 182 et soumettez votre<br />
nomination.<br />
Particulièrement pour nos voyageurs<br />
d’aff aires, l’emploi du temps est<br />
primordial. Nous avons investi dans<br />
notre réseau : par exemple, nous avons<br />
jusqu’à 150 vols par jour pour Londres<br />
Gatwick, 79 pour Genève et 45 pour<br />
Amsterdam.<br />
La ponctualité est aussi essentielle.<br />
Je suis heureuse de vous annoncer<br />
qu’en septembre, 81,9 % de nos vols<br />
ont décollé dans les 15 minutes suivant<br />
l’heure d’affi chage. Nous prouvons<br />
notre confi ance en nous engageant<br />
à off rir un vol standard gratuit vers<br />
toutes les destinations du réseau à<br />
tout passager ayant voyagé avec un<br />
billet Flexi Fare entre le 1er octobre et<br />
le 30 novembre <strong>2011</strong> et ayant subi un<br />
retard à l’arrivée de plus de 15 minutes.<br />
Bon vol.<br />
Turn to pages 181–192 for<br />
our latest news.<br />
Carolyn McCall<br />
easyJet Chief Executive<br />
Wir fragen uns ständig, was<br />
macht eigentlich ein angenehmes<br />
Reiseerlebnis für<br />
Passagiere aus? Die Antwort: verschiedene<br />
Dinge. Als Erstes glauben wir, dass die Menschen<br />
den Unterschied machen. Darum<br />
haben wir die easyJet Spirit Awards ins<br />
Leben gerufen, bei denen unsere Passagiere<br />
Kabinenpersonal und Piloten nominieren<br />
können, die ihnen besonders positiv aufgefallen<br />
sind. Den Gewinner dieses Monats<br />
erfahren Sie auf S. 184. Dort können Sie<br />
auch Ihre Nominierung abgeben.<br />
Vor allem für Geschäftsreisende ist der<br />
Flugplan entscheidend. Wir haben in unser<br />
Streckennetz investiert und fl iegen nun<br />
beispielsweise bis zu 150 Flüge täglich nach<br />
London Gatwick, 79 nach Genf und 45 nach<br />
Amsterdam.<br />
Und schließlich zur Pünktlichkeit: Ich<br />
freue mich, Ihnen mitteilen zu können, dass<br />
im September 81,9 % unserer Flüge innerhalb<br />
von +/-15 Minuten der geplanten Zeit<br />
gestartet sind. Wir sind so zuversichtlich,<br />
dass wir versprechen: Wenn sich der Flug<br />
eines Passagiers mit FLEXI Ticket zwischen<br />
dem 1. Oktober und 30. November <strong>2011</strong><br />
bei Ankunft mehr als 15 Minuten verspätet,<br />
schenken wir ihm einen Gratis-Standardfl ug<br />
zu einem beliebigen Zielort in unserem<br />
Streckennetz.<br />
Wir wünschen Ihnen einen guten Flug.<br />
Received great service<br />
on board? Please tell us!<br />
Turn to page 182 to share<br />
the Orange Spirit!<br />
TRAVELLER | 9
WORDS WILLIAM TURVILL | PHOTO © MURIEL CHAULET/ LYON TOURISM AND CONVENTIONS<br />
47<br />
INSPIRING<br />
IDEAS FOR<br />
YOUR DIARY<br />
THE<br />
BUZZ<br />
Fête des Lumières<br />
LYON<br />
Bright enough for you?<br />
This annual light festival’s<br />
dazzling illuminations have<br />
been a literal highlight for<br />
visitors to France’s second<br />
city since 1852. Once again,<br />
from 8-11 December, all the<br />
city’s main sights – like Place<br />
des Terreaux, seen here – will<br />
be brightened by 80 ambitious<br />
lighting projects. What’s more,<br />
millions of candles will be sold for<br />
local window displays.<br />
fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr<br />
10 | TRAVELLER
THE BUZZ | VIEWFINDER<br />
TRAVELLER | 11
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
GOSSIP FROM THE NETWORK<br />
WORD OF MOUTH<br />
Giving Wales<br />
a Wave<br />
BRISTOL Surf’s up in the south-west.<br />
Or at least, hopefully it will be soon, after<br />
the announcement that an indoor surf<br />
centre is coming to Cardiff Bay. Planning<br />
permission has been requested for<br />
the £2m (€2.3m) Surf Rider complex<br />
to be built alongside the International<br />
White Water centre, an hour from Bristol<br />
airport. All being well, Surf Rider will open<br />
in 2013 and visitors will be able to hit the<br />
standing waves for a totally gnarly ride.<br />
NETWORK IN NUMBERS<br />
100,000<br />
LONDON<br />
Number of people<br />
who attended<br />
the unveiling of<br />
Europe’s biggest<br />
urban shopping<br />
centre – Westfi eld<br />
Stratford City<br />
in east London<br />
– which covers<br />
176,515m 2 . The<br />
crowds were so<br />
large that security<br />
staff had to be<br />
drafted in to<br />
monitor queues.<br />
12 | TRAVELLER<br />
€12,000<br />
MALAGA<br />
Value of a<br />
diamond found<br />
in a thief’s<br />
stomach after<br />
a British tourist<br />
had her jewellery<br />
stolen from a<br />
restaurant in<br />
Marbella. The<br />
gem snatcher<br />
was X-rayed after<br />
offi cers saw him<br />
put his hand to<br />
his mouth during<br />
the arrest.<br />
€7,000<br />
PARIS<br />
Price per square<br />
metre of shopfl<br />
oor rental along<br />
the Avenue des<br />
Champs-Élysée,<br />
which has been<br />
confi rmed as the<br />
most expensive<br />
commercial space<br />
in Europe. It has<br />
overtaken New<br />
Bond Street in<br />
London, which<br />
held the previous<br />
rent record.<br />
446<br />
BUDAPEST<br />
Age in years of<br />
the Király Baths in<br />
Budapest, which<br />
has announced<br />
plans for a face-lift<br />
and renovation –<br />
its fi rst in over 60<br />
years. Budapest<br />
has more than<br />
100 thermal<br />
springs which<br />
provide around<br />
70m litres of water<br />
every day, ranging<br />
from 14-96°C.<br />
WORDS SARAH WARWICK | PHOTOS © ALAMY, CATERS, GETTY
Vans for the<br />
Memories<br />
BERLIN Summer has returned to the<br />
German capital, where the world’s fi rst<br />
indoor caravan park, Hüttenpalast<br />
(meaning “cottage palace”), is helping<br />
visitors enjoy the great outdoors indoors.<br />
Located in the production hall of a<br />
disused vacuum-cleaner factory in the<br />
old industrial Neukölln district, this quirky<br />
hotel has caravans and cabins instead<br />
of rooms, and communal living spaces<br />
complete with swings and “trees”, just like<br />
an outdoor caravan park.<br />
Owners Silke Lorenzen and<br />
Sarah Vollmer say they wanted to<br />
invoke the very German feeling of<br />
Schrebergartenglück (meaning “the joy<br />
of spending some time in a small garden<br />
plot in the middle of many other small<br />
garden plots”) and retain the architecture<br />
of the original building, while creating “a<br />
space where people actually meet each<br />
other”. Van rental starts at €40 a night.<br />
huettenpalast.de<br />
Peep Sea Show<br />
TEL AVIV More than 1,000 naked people spent the day<br />
frolicking in the Dead Sea recently and all for a good<br />
cause. Photographer Spencer Tunick, who is known for<br />
his use of mass nudes, planned his latest shoot to raise<br />
awareness of dwindling water levels. Let’s hope it wasn’t<br />
too chilly. spencertunick.com
Crédit photo : Julien Knaub/TV5MONDE<br />
LE WEEK-END<br />
SUR TV5MONDE<br />
Voyagez avec le chef Guy Martin, à la découverte des<br />
meilleurs produits de terroir.
WORDS SOPHIE LEWIS | PHOTO © ALAMY | ILLUSTRATIONS © RALPH STEADMAN <strong>2011</strong><br />
Flight From Extinction<br />
LONDON The style is unmistakable<br />
– though the subject matter is not the<br />
fi rst thing you’d expect from Ralph<br />
Steadman. The illustrator, best known<br />
for his partnership with author Hunter S<br />
Thompson, has created these portraits of<br />
extinct species – printed exclusively here<br />
– as part of a new multimedia art show to<br />
support endangered birds. Hundreds of<br />
artists, musicians and performers have<br />
contributed to Ghosts of Gone Birds,<br />
taking place at the Rochelle School in<br />
Shoreditch from 2-23 November.<br />
More than 12% of the<br />
world’s bird species are<br />
currently facing extinction.<br />
If you want to help save<br />
them, CERI LEVY, co-founder of Ghosts<br />
of Gone Birds, explains how:<br />
1. One of the main threats to birds<br />
is habitat loss. If you have a garden,<br />
No longer with us are, clockwise<br />
from top left, the Jamaican red<br />
macaw, atitlan grebe, Martinique<br />
Amazon parrot and Chatham rail,<br />
drawn by Ralph Steadman<br />
consider leaving a small wild area as<br />
shelter for young birds to forage for food.<br />
2. From autumn, when insect-food levels<br />
decrease, put a feeder in your garden<br />
fi lled with nuts, seeds, suet and soft fruit.<br />
3. Keep a birdbath. In cold or freezing<br />
conditions, birds need a place to bathe<br />
more than food, as well-kept plumage<br />
insulates them against the cold. Change<br />
the water daily and keep it ice free.<br />
4. In the wild, many species of birds<br />
nest in holes in old, rotten trees, but<br />
in well-kept urban parks and gardens<br />
such nesting places are hard to fi nd.<br />
Encourage breeding by providing<br />
sheltered boxes as warm roosting sites.<br />
5. Join the Preventing Extinctions<br />
Programme through your national<br />
BirdLife Partner organisation. Sign up to<br />
receive free email alerts on all the latest<br />
news and ways in which you can help.<br />
birdlife.org<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
What’s going on?<br />
CHRISTMAS<br />
MARKETS<br />
26 NOVEMBER-8 JANUARY<br />
Christmas Market<br />
PRAGUE<br />
Incorporating magical fairy tales and<br />
elaborate folklore, the Czech fl avour<br />
of Christmas markets will please<br />
adults and children alike. Rummage<br />
through traditional handicrafts,<br />
munch giant sausages or buy chic<br />
Bohemian crystal baubles for your<br />
tree while sipping hot wine.<br />
pragueexperience.com<br />
25 NOVEMBER-18 DECEMBER<br />
Feria de Santa Lucia<br />
BARCELONA<br />
Despite the sunshine, there’s still<br />
a festive feeling at this fun market<br />
next to the cathedral in the Gothic<br />
quarter. Art and music fi ll the streets,<br />
which are lit with thousands of tiny<br />
lights and decorated with local crafts.<br />
The cathedral’s nativity scene is well<br />
worth a visit. barcelonaturisme.com<br />
UNTIL 2 JANUARY<br />
Winterwelt<br />
BERLIN<br />
You’ll fi nd traditional seasonal foods,<br />
glittering decorations and elaborate<br />
gifts at Potsdammer Strasse during<br />
Berlin’s Winter World, along with<br />
the largest mobile toboggan run in<br />
Europe. Treat yourself to a sticky<br />
toff ee apple and experience a true<br />
winter wonderland. visitberlin.de<br />
TRAVELLER | 15
WORDS MARK SMITH, TAMARA HINSON, ANNIE DARLING<br />
Buried Treasures<br />
STOCKHOLM It’s rare that an exhibition<br />
space is even half as exciting as the<br />
objects on display in it, but, as you can<br />
see from the picture above, Stockholm’s<br />
Skeppsholmen caverns are the<br />
exception. Dug for military use during<br />
World War II, these underground tunnels<br />
now provide an atmospheric setting for<br />
archaeological displays. Until 12 February<br />
next year, they’re hosting Inca – Gold<br />
Re: Cycle<br />
AMSTERDAM Bike ownership can be<br />
beset with problems in a temperate<br />
climate, so it’s little wonder that the<br />
VANMOOF – a rust-free, aluminiumframed<br />
take on the classic Dutch bike –<br />
has been the hot mode of transport since<br />
its launch in 2009. At fi rst, the bikes,<br />
with their good looks and solar-powered<br />
lights, were strictly the preserve of media<br />
types and beardy design enthusiasts.<br />
Now all manner of locals, from mums to<br />
students, are trading in trusty pushbikes<br />
for these good-looking younger models,<br />
which can be found prettying-up bike<br />
racks all over the city. vanmoof.com<br />
Beneath Stockholm’s<br />
Skeppsholmen Island,<br />
old WWII tunnels are<br />
now used for exhibitions<br />
The latest is a display<br />
of gold artefacts, below,<br />
from the Incas of Peru<br />
Treasures in the Rock Galleries,<br />
a display of 300 artefacts on loan from<br />
Peruvian museums, many of them made<br />
of solid gold.<br />
For project manager Katarina Stigwall,<br />
the setting is especially apt, as the gold<br />
lay buried for centuries before being<br />
discovered. “To receive this material from<br />
Peru feels like fi nding treasures from a<br />
lost world,” she says. smvk.se<br />
VANMOOF No. 5 features<br />
a built-in lock and wide tyres<br />
for a smooth ride (from €528)<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
What’s going on?<br />
KIDS’ FESTIVALS<br />
12-13 NOVEMBER<br />
Gioco dell’Oca<br />
VENICE This goose fair off ers<br />
many delights, but children<br />
will particularly enjoy watching<br />
men dressed in medieval garb<br />
compete against each other<br />
in a life-size game of snakes<br />
and ladders. Instead of snakes,<br />
though, the men have to jump<br />
over live geese. giocodelloca.it<br />
10-27 NOVEMBER<br />
Fairy Tale Days<br />
BERLIN Every year, this<br />
storytelling extravaganza sees<br />
authors, illustrators, actors,<br />
musicians and puppeteers<br />
take part in an array of familyfriendly<br />
shows at Berlin’s<br />
Fairytale Land. This year’s focus<br />
is on North American stories.<br />
maerchenland-ev.de<br />
24-27 NOVEMBER<br />
South Ken Kids Festival<br />
LONDON Come for fi lms,<br />
talks, workshops, theatre,<br />
a drawing duel between<br />
illustrators and more in this<br />
celebration of children’s<br />
literature. institut-francais.org.<br />
uk/southkenkidsfest<br />
TRAVELLER | 17
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
Water World<br />
BRUSSELS If you haven’t seen the post-modern theatrics of Argentinian<br />
troupe Fuerzabruta, with their overhead water performance, prepare to be<br />
dazzled. The next date on their tour takes them to Hangar 29 at Waagnatie<br />
in Antwerp, less than an hour’s drive from Brussels, from 3-27 November.<br />
Beware: audience participation is demanded. fuerzabruta.net<br />
Peace of the East<br />
MALAGA Asian health spas may be wonderful, but they<br />
are rather far away, so here’s a thought: why not bring<br />
the essence of them closer? So goes the happy logic<br />
behind Shanti-Som, a recently opened Thai-style retreat<br />
near Malaga. With its fusion Asian restaurant and<br />
Buddha-rich decor, it’s easy to forget it’s in Spain.<br />
Owner Kezia Jacobsen founded the spa in the hope of<br />
fi nding peace after her son was injured in a serious<br />
accident. “However much money you have, if your spirit<br />
isn’t calm, you have nothing,” is her mantra. To make it<br />
accessible to as many people as possible, Kezia has kept<br />
the fi ve-star resort’s prices comparatively low, as well as<br />
off ering free treatment days to local carers. Visitors can<br />
choose from detox, weight-loss and yoga retreats – or<br />
custom make their own. Prices start from €1,595 for<br />
seven days. shantisom.com<br />
18 | TRAVELLER<br />
Öney All Hours<br />
ISTANBUL The days of fi nding bargain<br />
Byzantine relics might be over, but a new<br />
wave of design-shop openings have made<br />
the Turkish city a great place to pick up chic<br />
and unusual interiors. Now architecture<br />
power couple Mustafa and Handan Öney<br />
have got in on the action, launching their<br />
own boutique, called Öney (what else?), in<br />
the building where they once had their fi rm’s<br />
offi ces. With handmade furniture, one-off<br />
antiques and lamps sourced from around<br />
the world, there’s nothing, ahem, bazaar<br />
about this grand boutique. Prices from TRY<br />
250 (€99). Öney, 45/47 Abdi Îpekçi Caddesi,<br />
Nisantasi, Sisli, Istanbul; oneymimarlik.com<br />
WORDS CATHERINE COOPER
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
Hemingway<br />
and Chums<br />
BARCELONA A war-torn country, a<br />
famous novelist and lost possessions<br />
regained: the dramatic story of the<br />
“Mexican Suitcase” has it all – as visitors<br />
to a new show in Barcelona will testify.<br />
This image of Ernest Hemingway<br />
(centre) enjoying a smoke with two<br />
soldiers, is just one of 4,500 35mm<br />
negatives of the Spanish Civil War, taken<br />
by renowned war photographers Robert<br />
Capa, Gerda Taro and Chim (David<br />
Seymour) which were lost for 70 years.<br />
When Capa fl ed his adopted Paris<br />
home in 1939 ahead of the Nazi invasion,<br />
he entrusted a suitcase of fi lms to a<br />
friend with instructions to hide it.<br />
Somehow the suitcase, by then emptied<br />
into three cardboard boxes, was found –<br />
after travelling thousands of miles by<br />
boat, plane and bicycle – in a dusty<br />
Mexican basement in 2007.<br />
Now, 75 years after the start of the Civil<br />
War, a selection of these powerful images<br />
has gone on display for the fi rst time at<br />
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya,<br />
giving a rare insight into the movements<br />
of Hemingway, soldiers and civilians<br />
during the confl ict. mnac.cat<br />
20 | TRAVELLER<br />
Ernest Hemingway<br />
(centre) having a<br />
smoke with New<br />
York Times’<br />
correspondent<br />
Herbert Matthews<br />
(background) and<br />
two Republican<br />
soldiers, 1937<br />
SEND YOUR PHOTOS TO WIN FLIGHTS!<br />
Who doesn’t love taking pictures of<br />
their holidays? Now you can show off<br />
your photographic prowess with our<br />
monthly competition. Kicking off in<br />
our December issue, the contest will<br />
give you the chance to win a pair of<br />
return fl ights every month, plus see<br />
your snaps in print. Just send your<br />
best holiday photos of friends and<br />
family that capture a special moment<br />
(high resolution, 300dpi or above) to<br />
competition.easyJet@ink-global.<br />
com with your name, address and<br />
phone number. Good luck!<br />
Entries must be your own original work,<br />
must not violate the rights of any other<br />
person or organisation and must not<br />
contain any content that is illegal or<br />
deemed off ensive. For full terms<br />
and conditions of entry, see traveller.<br />
easyJet.com/T&Cs<br />
BE A MOVIE<br />
MAKER<br />
Now you can create your<br />
own holiday movie with our<br />
Facebook app memory maker!<br />
Upload your favourite holiday<br />
snaps to Facebook, choose<br />
your selection using the<br />
memory-maker app and then<br />
share your fi nished fi lm with<br />
friends. You can also check<br />
out other people’s movies<br />
and vote for the ones you<br />
like the best. Look out on our<br />
Facebook pages this month or<br />
see whereareyougoing.info<br />
Visit Facebook to join<br />
our communities in<br />
your local language<br />
PHOTOS © ESTATE OF DAVID SEYMOUR/MAGNUM
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
22 | TRAVELLER<br />
VIEWING NOTES<br />
NO. 1<br />
What’s going on?<br />
An open-air museum containing<br />
650 Egyptian sphinxes has been<br />
unveiled in Luxor. The leonine<br />
monuments face each other along<br />
a 2.7km-long parade built by the<br />
dynasty king Nectanebo I as a place<br />
for religious worship.<br />
Since when?<br />
Well, it’s been here for years (over<br />
3,000 to be more specifi c), but<br />
after being gradually covered by<br />
silt and built over, it has now been<br />
excavated and is open to the public.<br />
Who cares?<br />
Indiana Jones types, like<br />
archaeologists, Egyptologists – and<br />
anyone fascinated by the pharaohs.<br />
Does it do anything else?<br />
Yes. The avenue connects two<br />
UNESCO World Heritage temples<br />
– Luxor and Karnak. There are<br />
also the remains of a Roman wine<br />
factory along the route.<br />
THE MUST SEE<br />
AVENUE<br />
OF THE<br />
SPHINXES<br />
LUXOR<br />
When can you go?<br />
It’s open all year round.<br />
What to do<br />
Soak up the history and try to spot<br />
the six chapels built by Queen<br />
Hatshepsut along the route, circa<br />
1500BC, and not yet unearthed.<br />
What not to do<br />
Put anything in your pocket. These<br />
relics are pretty valuable: excavation<br />
cost the Egyptian government EGP<br />
60 million (€7 million).<br />
WORDS BY AMY DENNIS | PHOTO © GETTY IMAGES
design www.thomasoak.fr - photos © Groupe Lucien Barrière<br />
HÔTEL<br />
Gray d’Albion<br />
CANNES
INTERVIEWS AND PHOTOS XENIA ALONSO, BARCELONETTE.NET<br />
Neighbourhood Watch: L’Eixample<br />
BARCELONA Home to the city’s two most famous boulevards – Las Ramblas and<br />
Paseo de Gracia – L’Eixample is crammed with markets and modernist architecture,<br />
with high-end outlets next to young designers’ indie boutiques.<br />
CRISTINA EXARCHOU, 24, STUDENT<br />
Favourite local restaurant? “Cup & Cake<br />
[145 Carrer d’Enric Granados; tel: +34<br />
932 002 872] is the best place to go for<br />
afternoon tea on a Saturday. Cakes are<br />
having a revival and this is the best place<br />
for them.”<br />
Favourite shop? “In my opinion, Uterque<br />
[65 Paseo de Gràcia; tel: +34 934 872<br />
010] has L’Eixample’s best accessories –<br />
shoes, bags, jewellery, everything! I would<br />
buy the lot if I could.”<br />
Secret tip? “Wandering along the<br />
picturesque Carrer d’Enric Granados is<br />
an absolute delight.”<br />
BERNARD RODRIGUEZ, 31, WAITER<br />
Favourite bar in the area? “Café Berlin [240<br />
Calle Muntaner; tel: +34 932 006 542]<br />
has a great vibe in the early evening, just<br />
before nightfall. It’s after-work drinking,<br />
but with a huge dose of cool.”<br />
Favourite local restaurant? “Hàbaluc [41<br />
Carrer d’Enric Granados; tel: +34 934<br />
522 928] is the only restaurant in the<br />
area that serves delicious, locally sourced<br />
organic food.”<br />
Secret tip? “My top spot for a few quiet<br />
drinks with friends is the bar-cum-gallery<br />
Cosmos [3 Carrer d’Enric Granados; tel:<br />
+33 934 537 007], a hidden gem.”<br />
OLIVIA FRANQUÉS, 16, STUDENT<br />
Favourite café in the area? “Farggi [94<br />
Paseo de Gràcia; tel: +34 934 870 999]<br />
has a few tables out on the narrow side<br />
street in front. Even in the colder months,<br />
it’s a lovely spot and the hot chocolate is<br />
unmissable.”<br />
Favourite shop? “Hakei [57 Rambla de<br />
Catalunya; tel: +34 934 961 540] is where<br />
I go for the latest clothing trends. All their<br />
pieces go together and the prices are<br />
reasonable.”<br />
Secret tip? “It’s so much more fun touring<br />
L’Eixample by bike. It’s a great way to<br />
avoid the packed pavements.”<br />
THE BUZZ | STREET STYLE<br />
on trend<br />
trendwatching.com scans the<br />
globe for the latest emerging<br />
consumer trends. Here, the<br />
company’s head of research and<br />
analysis, Henry Mason, tells us<br />
what to look out for this month.<br />
reCOMMERCE<br />
Want to buy the latest gadgets, but<br />
not sure what to do with your old<br />
ones? reCommerce is the latest<br />
answer, according to consumer<br />
fi gures, which show that trading-up<br />
has become the new buying.<br />
Although fl ogging old stuff to<br />
aff ord shiny, new things is a process<br />
as old as money itself, a growing<br />
environmental and economic<br />
awareness means that buybacks<br />
are becoming big business. Trade-in<br />
initiatives from super brands, and<br />
marketplaces on smartphone apps,<br />
mean that unlocking cash from past<br />
purchases has never been easier.<br />
eBay’s Instant Sale (instantsale.<br />
ebay.com), for example, allows<br />
users to sell electronic gadgets back<br />
to them, while Gazelle.com and<br />
NextWorth.com will buy any iPad in<br />
reasonable condition.<br />
Fashionistas can cash in too.<br />
Mango for Mango is an initiative from<br />
Spanish retailer Mango that allows<br />
customers who sign up for a loyalty<br />
card to return items within 12 months<br />
of purchase for a 20% discount on<br />
new purchases.<br />
Even experiences are being resold:<br />
Turkish site Kuponomi.com allows<br />
people to resell or trade their unused<br />
daily-deal coupons.<br />
To subscribe to a free monthly trend<br />
briefi ng, available in English, Dutch,<br />
German, French, Spanish, Turkish and<br />
Portuguese, go to trendwatching.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 25
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
Things you never knew about<br />
BEAUJOLAIS<br />
NOUVEAU<br />
LYON Celebrations are often<br />
accompanied by the sound of<br />
popping corks, but it’s not every day<br />
that wine is the reason for the party.<br />
On 17 November, however, when the<br />
fi rst bottles of this year’s wine<br />
harvest go on sale in the village of<br />
Beaujeu, an hour north of Lyon, the<br />
locals will be painting the town<br />
burgundy. Want to join in? Here’s<br />
what you’ll need to know...<br />
1. Beaujolais nouveau is a vin de<br />
primeur, meaning a wine that has<br />
been fermented for just a few weeks.<br />
2. Released on the third Thursday of<br />
November each year, its corking sees<br />
celebrations across France. Les<br />
Sarmentelles, a four-day festival in<br />
Beaujeu, is the biggest tasting event<br />
in France.<br />
3. Steel wheelbarrows fi lled with<br />
fl aming vines kick-start the<br />
celebrations at 11.15pm on the<br />
Wednesday, ensuring the crowd<br />
is more than ready for the fi rst<br />
corking at 12.01am on the Thursday.<br />
4. By law, all the grapes must be<br />
harvested by hand, be of the Gamay<br />
Noir à Jus Blanc grape variation and<br />
be grown in the Beaujolais region.<br />
5. In the 1970s, the wine was<br />
celebrated with a race to Paris,<br />
runners carrying the fi rst bottles.<br />
6. There are nearly 4,000 growers<br />
who make their living from the<br />
Beaujolais nouveau trade.<br />
7. More than 65-million bottles each<br />
year are shipped out and drunk<br />
around the world.<br />
8. The wine won’t keep for more than<br />
a year, but that’s no problem, as it’s<br />
usually fi nished off by Christmas.<br />
26 | TRAVELLER<br />
Love Me Tender<br />
MANCHESTER Ever ordered a cocktail<br />
and then had to wait for ages while some<br />
cocky bartender shakes, stirs and shows<br />
off ? Well, at the newly opened Southern<br />
Eleven, you can avoid the problem<br />
entirely. In a UK-fi rst, drinkers can choose<br />
to have shakers and shots brought to<br />
their table so that they mix their own.<br />
This neat trick also extends to the<br />
food, with pots of BBQ sauce and special<br />
brushes on-hand for diners to add a<br />
bespoke touch to chef James Hitchen’s<br />
house special: racks of hickory-woodsmoked<br />
pork ribs. And if you fancy a bit<br />
of this DIY action from home, the kind<br />
What is there to do at...<br />
FEIRA DO CAVALOS<br />
Southern Eleven:<br />
home of good ol’ BBQ<br />
and self-mixed cocktails<br />
MIX YOUR OWN<br />
Ingredients<br />
40ml cranberry vodka<br />
20ml cranberry juice<br />
20ml violet liqueur<br />
10ml violet syrup<br />
15ml lemon juice<br />
Shake all the ingredients with ice and<br />
serve in a chilled martini glass. Garnish<br />
with an edible fl ower.<br />
Dating back to the 18th century, the annual Portuguese National Horse Fair turns<br />
Golegã, an hour north of Lisbon, into a hub of equine activity. From 4-13 November,<br />
enjoy demonstrations and shows, as well as traditional treats...<br />
LUSITANO<br />
The Portuguese horse has<br />
become famous for its athletic<br />
dressage skills.<br />
COZIDO À<br />
PORTUGUESA<br />
A rich local stew of pork,<br />
sausage and vegetables.<br />
people there have even devised a<br />
cocktail, especially for us.<br />
3 Hardman Street, Spinningfi elds, tel: +44<br />
(0)161 832 0482, southern11.co.uk<br />
ÁGUA-PÉ<br />
Literally “foot water”, a light<br />
wine made by adding water to<br />
grape residue.<br />
WORDS AMY DENNIS I PHOTOS © GETTY
THE BUZZ | BIG QUESTION<br />
“Where can I<br />
fi nd the best<br />
early snow?”<br />
IT’S THE START T of the<br />
European ski season on and<br />
early birds will soon be<br />
winging it to the slopes. Here,<br />
ski-holiday expert Alf Alderson suggests<br />
the ideal early-snow trips for families,<br />
adrenaline junkies and party animals.<br />
FOR FAMILY FUN...<br />
LES ARCS, FRANCE<br />
The snow Part of Paradiski, one of the<br />
biggest ski resort complexes in the Alps,<br />
Les Arcs is high enough to be snow-sure<br />
early on and has great facilities for kids.<br />
The scene While the young ones are<br />
occupied, parents will fi nd a massive<br />
selection of pistes for all abilities, from<br />
wide-open intermediate cruisers to<br />
challenging off -piste terrain, especially<br />
in the high-altitude Aiguille Rouge area.<br />
The stay Grand Paradiso (Village de<br />
Charmettoger, Les Arcs 1800; tel: +33<br />
(0)4 7907 6500, grandhotelparadiso.<br />
com) is a good, child-friendly option.<br />
Getting there Les Arcs is accessed<br />
easily from Geneva, Lyon and Grenoble.<br />
28 | TRAVELLER<br />
FOR OFF-PISTE ACTION...<br />
VAL THORENS, FRANCE<br />
The snow Val Thorens, part of the<br />
massive Three Valleys ski domain,<br />
is a top choice for the fl uff y stuff ,<br />
since it’s the highest resort in Europe.<br />
The scene The combination of high<br />
altitude and masses of terrain makes<br />
this resort a great bet for any keen<br />
off -pister. Ease yourself in with the<br />
gentle slopes off the Pierre Lory pass,<br />
then hire a guide to fi nd hidden havens.<br />
The stay Val Chavière Hotel (Rue de<br />
la Lombarde, Val Thorens, tel: +33 (0)4<br />
7900 0033, hotel-valthorens.com) is a<br />
top ski in/ski out choice.<br />
Getting there Val Thorens is accessed<br />
easily from Geneva, Lyon and Grenoble.<br />
FOR APRÉS ADVENTURES...<br />
VERBIER, SWITZERLAND<br />
The snow Verbier’s early skiing is as<br />
renowned as its nightlife, with its Mont<br />
Fort Glacier, 3,330m above sea level,<br />
attracting an international crowd.<br />
The scene For anyone making the<br />
most of Verbier, sleep is the last thing<br />
on the menu. Hit the slopes hard all day,<br />
before heading out to rub shoulders<br />
with Richard Branson, David Beckham<br />
and the like at ice-cool Coco night club.<br />
The stay Three-star Hotel Farinet<br />
(Place Centrale, Verbier, tel: +41 (0)27<br />
771 6626, hotelfarinet.com) is great for<br />
the ski-hard, play-hard contingent.<br />
Getting there Verbier is accessed<br />
easily from Geneva.<br />
PHOTOS © GETTY, HUGH RHODES
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THE BUZZ | OSTALGIE MAP<br />
GDR-chic with, clockwise<br />
from top left, the reception<br />
of the retro Ostel Hostel;<br />
plenty of plastic, in<br />
telephones and<br />
sunglasses; the legendary<br />
Kaff ee Burger bar; and<br />
iconic styles of furnishings<br />
and lighting<br />
30 | TRAVELLER<br />
Past Life<br />
Regression<br />
Half a century after the Berlin Wall went up, trendy locals<br />
are enjoying a revival of interest in all things “Ost”<br />
THIS YEAR, GERMANY marks the<br />
50th anniversary since the Berlin<br />
Wall was built – and it’s got locals<br />
refl ecting again about life behind the wall.<br />
In the city, there’s been a return to<br />
smoky, candle-lit bars serving up<br />
old-fashioned drinks, a rush on retro<br />
furnishings at antique fl ea markets, and<br />
new restaurants and hotels decked out<br />
in traditional East German kitsch.<br />
Known as Ostalgie (from the German<br />
words for “east” and “nostalgia”),<br />
the trend fi rst emerged in the 1990s<br />
in former eastern-bloc Germany,<br />
culminating in various campaigns<br />
for the return of vintage foodstuff s,<br />
like Vita Cola, the survival of Ossie<br />
Crosswalk Man (the fedora-wearing,<br />
East German traffi c-light symbol)<br />
and fi lms like 1999’s Sonnenallee.<br />
It harks back to the era from 1961,<br />
when the Wall was built, and East<br />
Berlin was controlled by the German<br />
Democratic Republic (GDR), through<br />
to 1989 when it came down. Now a new<br />
generation of Germans are enjoying a<br />
second wave of the Ostalgie trend and<br />
partying like it’s still 1969.
WORDS LAURA MARTIN | ILLUSTRATION © MARC ASPINALL I PHOTOS © ALAMY<br />
GO “OSTALGIE”<br />
1. Clärchens Ballhaus<br />
This historic venue has been hosting<br />
balls and dances since 1913, but now<br />
the oldies on the dance fl oor are being<br />
joined by a younger crowd, with the likes<br />
of DJ T-INA Darling hitting the decks and<br />
playing anything from jive to house. Be<br />
sure to tip cloakroom attendant Günther<br />
– he’s been working here for 40 years.<br />
Clärchens Ballhaus, 24 Augustraße,<br />
tel: +49 (0)30 282 9295, ballhaus.de<br />
2. Arkonaplatz fl ohmarkt<br />
Every Sunday, from 10am to 6pm, the<br />
Arkonaplatz fl ea market in Mitte is where<br />
Berlin hipsters fl ock to pick up retro<br />
furnishings: antique chairs, old-fashioned<br />
suitcases, vintage clothing and cool<br />
knick-knacks. Stock up on originals and<br />
take a piece of the GDR home with you.<br />
Arkonaplatz, Mitte. Nearest U-bahn:<br />
Bernauer Straße<br />
3. Themroc<br />
Tired of modern-day anxiety over menu<br />
choice? This cult restaurant is a kickback<br />
to the old days of communal dining,<br />
when guests were only off ered one<br />
choice of starter, main and dessert. The<br />
intimate setting and change from €30<br />
for a three-course dinner with wine also<br />
makes it feel happily historical.<br />
Themroc, 183 Torstraße, tel: +49 (0)30<br />
282 4474, themroc-berlin.de<br />
4. Trabi Safari<br />
The Trabant – or Trabi – car was once<br />
seen as the symbol of the GDR in East<br />
Germany. Several have now been lovingly<br />
restored, giving fans old and new the<br />
chance to wrestle with an ancient engine<br />
on a self-drive Trabi Safari tour of Berlin.<br />
97 Zimmerstraße; tel: +49 (0)30 2759<br />
2273, trabi-safari.de<br />
5. Kaff ee Burger<br />
This late-night bar and gig venue fi rst<br />
opened in 1890. It was a drinking den for<br />
theatrical and literary types throughout<br />
the years hinter der Wand (behind the<br />
Wall), but a new generation now come for<br />
raucous gigs and club nights.<br />
60 Torstraße; tel: +49 (0)30 2804 6495,<br />
kaff eeburger.de<br />
6. Volkskammer<br />
A design restaurant which marries sleek,<br />
high-end East German and Soviet décor<br />
with a wide and varied menu of classic<br />
dishes and drinks, Try peppered steak<br />
washed down with a Vita Cola – the<br />
GDR’s anti-Western version of Coca Cola.<br />
18b Straße der Pariser Kommune; tel:<br />
+49 (0)30 2068 7549, volkskammer.de<br />
THE BUZZ | OSTALGIE MAP<br />
Q&A<br />
Daniel Helbig<br />
He joined the zeitgeist when he<br />
opened Ostel, a designer boutique<br />
hostel with a twist. Set up to recreate<br />
the lifestyle of the GDR in the<br />
1970s (think East German chic),<br />
the concrete tower-block hotel has<br />
rooms decorated in orange and<br />
brown, with retro plastics and heavy<br />
use of linoleum.<br />
Why a hotel themed on the past?<br />
“We wanted to give a bit of love back<br />
for the GDR-inspired décor. It’s been<br />
a really popular concept since we<br />
opened, and those who lived through<br />
the time who have visited think it’s<br />
really authentic.”<br />
Why do you think people like it?<br />
“I was born during the GDR myself<br />
and lived in the Mitte area of Berlin.<br />
For me, it’s certain types of furniture,<br />
a lamp or particular wallpaper that<br />
really take me back. We’ve tried to<br />
re-create this in the hotel.”<br />
Why is this trend happening?<br />
“I think part of the reason this<br />
old-East trend is returning now<br />
is the idea of nostalgia and the desire<br />
to experience a simpler and calmer<br />
time. It’s unique to Berlin – it’s not<br />
a concept that’s transferable to<br />
other cities.<br />
“There’s romanticism, looking at it<br />
now from a present-day perspective,<br />
as there were no emails, no faxes –<br />
not even enough telephones to go<br />
around! You had quality time for the<br />
real things in life.”<br />
At Ostel Hostel, choose from a family<br />
apartment, double room or a bed in a<br />
dorm room. 5 Wriezener Karree;<br />
tel: +49 (0)30 2576 8660, ostel.eu<br />
TRAVELLER | 31
WORDS CHRIS BEANLAND<br />
THE BUZZ | THE Q&A<br />
Q&A<br />
In the Land<br />
of Giants<br />
On the eve of his new show, artist Jorge Rodríguez-Gerada reveals just why size matters<br />
JORGE RODRIGUEZ-GERADA is no<br />
stranger to notoriety. In early 1990s New<br />
York, the Cuban-American painter was<br />
something of a Banksy-esque rebel, part<br />
of the culture-jamming movement that<br />
tampered with signposts and advertising<br />
billboards in the name of art. His work<br />
with guerrilla groups like ArtFlux won<br />
the admiration of some – most notably<br />
No Logo author Naomi Klein – but it also<br />
garned condemnation (UK newspaper<br />
the Daily Mail was one notable detractor).<br />
Over the past fi ve years, his Identity<br />
Series – elephantine wall murals painted<br />
in various European cities, some as large<br />
as football pitches – has captured world<br />
media attention, particularly 2008’s<br />
Expectation, a giant sand-and-gravel<br />
representation of Barack Obama.<br />
32 | TRAVELLER<br />
This November, the former bad<br />
boy of the art world is set to join the<br />
establishment with his fi rst solo show in<br />
his adopted city of Barcelona.<br />
You are most famous for your giant murals.<br />
What inspired you to work on such a<br />
massive scale?<br />
I am critical of the marketing that has<br />
crept in to so many facets of our lives.<br />
I decided to do work that would counter<br />
it by using the same codes used by<br />
advertisers, such as scale, visibility and<br />
eye-catching images.<br />
Do you feel that making public art should be<br />
a right, rather than being policed?<br />
There should be limits. Public art needs<br />
to take into consideration where it is<br />
made: for instance, placing pieces on an<br />
architectural surface that has historical<br />
importance is diff erent from working<br />
on degraded surfaces that have been<br />
ignored. The end justifi es the means.<br />
Have you ever been arrested?<br />
A couple of times. The most memorable<br />
one was when a TV news crew came<br />
to fi lm us and called the police to<br />
sensationalise the story. At the police<br />
station, the offi cer told us that he wasn’t<br />
against us changing the get-drunk-quick,<br />
cheap-alcohol billboards that saturated<br />
the minorities’ areas of the city, so he<br />
ripped up the fi ne and let us go.<br />
What do you think of street art becoming<br />
more mainstream?<br />
I think it’s a good sign, because it shows<br />
a sign of maturity both in the general<br />
population and in the artists.
For your next exhibition, you’re taking your<br />
work inside. What will you be showing?<br />
My solo show at Ignacio de Lassaletta<br />
will have work in various sizes. I’ll be<br />
showcasing a new series using historical<br />
materials. I have removed old interior<br />
wall surfaces from 200-year-old<br />
abandoned buildings and transferred<br />
those textures onto wood panels.<br />
How does the new work, which brings the<br />
wall to the painting, inform your old work,<br />
which brought the painting to the wall?<br />
They are parallel directions. In both<br />
cases, I’m talking about the intrinsic<br />
beauty of the wall surface and the<br />
passage of time that it portrays.<br />
What is your inspiration?<br />
My empathy towards humanity. I paint<br />
ordinary people to create work that<br />
questions how we are being aff ected by<br />
the marketing and advertising industries.<br />
These industries sell values and concepts<br />
of success, worth, love, sexuality,<br />
popularity and normality.<br />
I’m inspired by the realities of the world<br />
we live in and the changes I consider<br />
necessary for the future I want to off er<br />
my children.<br />
Jorge Rodríguez-Gerada’s work will be<br />
on show at the Ignacio Lassaletta Gallery<br />
(47 Rambla de Catalunya; tel: +34 93<br />
488 0221, galeriaignaciodelassaletta.<br />
com) from November 24 – January 13.<br />
His murals can be seen in Barcelona,<br />
Granada, Ljubljana, London, Madrid<br />
and Valencia. Find out more at<br />
jorgerodriguezgerada.com<br />
Left, Tina,<br />
painted on the<br />
side of a<br />
building in<br />
Ljubljana by the<br />
artist, below,<br />
Jorge<br />
Rodríguez-<br />
Gerada
THE CITY<br />
OF CULTURE<br />
KNOCK-OUT!<br />
On the eve of<br />
their inaugeration, we<br />
compare the two new<br />
European Cities of<br />
Culture 2012<br />
★<br />
IN THE<br />
ORANGE<br />
CORNER<br />
“The city’s Mestni Park is a<br />
MUST SEE<br />
real paradise, especially in<br />
summer, when there are<br />
workshops for children<br />
and great concerts. There’s a really positive vibe from<br />
morning right through to evening.” maribor-pohorje.si<br />
FAMOUS FACES<br />
ARCHDUKE JOHANN – 19TH CENTURY<br />
PHILANTHROPIST<br />
DANILO TURK – CURRENT PRESIDENT<br />
ZLATKO ZAHOVIC – FOOTBALLER<br />
PARTY HERE<br />
“Tildo’s (13<br />
Slomškov Trg,<br />
Maribor; tel:<br />
+386 (0)41<br />
796 964), opposite the National Theatre, is my second home.<br />
It’s always full of actors, artists and musicians.”<br />
NEED TO KNOW<br />
POPULATION: 157,947<br />
LOCALS WHO FEEL SAFE WALKING AT NIGHT: 89%<br />
FLY TO: LJUBLANA (85 MINUTES AWAY)<br />
34 | TRAVELLER<br />
MARIBOR<br />
“THE JEWEL OF SLOVENIA”<br />
MATJAZ LATIN, THEATRE AND FILM DIRECTOR<br />
“I love Maribor, especially its peculiarities and its people. It has an industrial<br />
past and a great cultural future. Its location is perfect, too: we are close to<br />
the mountains, countryside and coast.”<br />
CLAIMS TO FAME<br />
LARGEST SKI RESORT IN SLOVENIA!<br />
WORLD’S OLDEST VINE!<br />
VINAG WINE CELLAR: 5.5M LITRES OF WINE!<br />
MUST DO<br />
“The Lent Festival in summer<br />
has outstanding concerts and<br />
street theatre. It’s the most<br />
social event of the year. Music<br />
lovers should visit the Maribor Festival in September, and in<br />
October the town hosts the Boršnik theatre festival.”<br />
EAT THIS<br />
PICKLED CHEESE<br />
“Try it at Rozmarin<br />
(8 Gosposka Ulica, Maribor;<br />
rozmarin.si), which has<br />
a good, aff ordable mix of Mediterranean and traditional<br />
Slovenian food and wine.”<br />
COST OF VISIT<br />
HOTEL, DOUBLE ROOM €80 | MEAL FOR TWO €34<br />
THEATRE PERFORMANCE €17<br />
BOTTLE OF WINE €16 | BUS TICKET €1.10<br />
v<br />
WORDS: JONATHAN KNOTT, SARAH WARWICK | PHOTOS © ALAMY, GETTY
THE BUZZ | CITY KNOCK-OUT<br />
s GUIMARÃES<br />
★<br />
IN THE<br />
BLUE<br />
CORNER<br />
JOSÉ BASTOS, DIRECTOR OF THE VILA FLOR CULTURAL CENTRE<br />
“It’s exciting to be part of the urban renewal in this city of extraordinary heritage.<br />
Half the population of Guimarães is under 30, which brings a creative energy<br />
that shows up in every corner of town.”<br />
“The UNESCO World<br />
MUST SEE<br />
Heritage city centre and<br />
the ancient Citânia de<br />
Briteiros site, about 15km<br />
away, are must sees, as is Penha Mountain and the cable car<br />
that carries you to the top.” guimaraesturismo.com<br />
FAMOUS FACES<br />
KING ALONSO I – FIRST KING OF PORTUGAL<br />
FRANCISCO MARTINS SARMENTO<br />
– EARLY ARCHAEOLOGIST<br />
ELISABETE MATOS – OPERA SINGER<br />
PARTY HERE<br />
“The<br />
historical<br />
centre is<br />
where locals<br />
and visitors gather. Projecto Bar (in Parque das Hortas) near<br />
the Guimarães cable way, hosts DJ sessions and live music.”<br />
NEED TO KNOW<br />
POPULATION: 52,181<br />
GREEN SPACE PER CAPITA: 21m 2<br />
FLY TO: PORTO (40 MINUTES AWAY)<br />
“THE CRADLE OF PORTUGAL”<br />
CLAIMS TO FAME<br />
UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE!<br />
FIRST CITY FOUNDED IN PORTUGAL!<br />
HOSTS MAJOR JAZZ FESTIVAL IN NOVEMBER!<br />
MUST DO<br />
“The Vila Flor Cultural<br />
Centre (701 Avenida D Afonso<br />
Henriques; ccvf.pt) for<br />
exhibitions and performances,<br />
and the beautiful Alberto Sampaio Museum (Rua Alfredo<br />
Guimãraes; masampaio.imc-ip.pt) for art and local history.”<br />
EAT THIS<br />
TRIPE IN PORT<br />
“Try it at São Gião<br />
(Avenida Comendador<br />
Joaquim de Almeida Freitas,<br />
Moreira de Cónegos: tel: +351 (0)253 561 853). It has a<br />
creative menu and exceptional wine cellar.”<br />
COST OF VISIT<br />
HOTEL, DOUBLE ROOM €85 | MEAL FOR TWO €30<br />
THEATRE PERFORMANCE €20<br />
BOTTLE OF WINE €10 | BUS TICKET €0.90<br />
TRAVELLER | 35
WORDS CHRIS BEANLAND | PHOTOS © ADAMAN.IT, PATRICK VISSER<br />
MARCH<br />
Transgrancanaria<br />
GRAN CANARIA<br />
If your idea of a Canary Islands<br />
holiday involves sun, sea and<br />
sangria, then the North Face<br />
Transgrancanaria isn’t for you.<br />
But if you’d eschew lazy days<br />
on a lounger for the challenge<br />
of a lifetime, then book now<br />
for an unforgettable run. The<br />
eponymous race is a bonecrunching<br />
123km monster run<br />
over elevations of 11,000m, but<br />
entrants can also choose from<br />
distances of 24, 42 or 96km.<br />
JANUARY<br />
Eurosonic Noorderslag<br />
AMSTERDAM<br />
Catch the sounds of the future<br />
at the little town of Groningen, a<br />
few hours’ drive from Amsterdam.<br />
From 11-14 January, new bands<br />
and cutting-edge DJs will give a<br />
glimpse into what 2012 has to<br />
off er music-wise. Traditionally<br />
a barometer for the upcoming<br />
European music scene, the<br />
BOOK AHEAD<br />
Planning a trip over the<br />
next few months? Make a<br />
note in your diary and get<br />
to one of these events<br />
From its humble origins in 2003<br />
– when 65 runners took part –<br />
it’s grown into a major date on the<br />
running calendar, with more than<br />
1,400 participants expected for<br />
this year’s 2-4 March event.<br />
transgrancanaria.net<br />
festival has previously broken<br />
out acts including Everything<br />
Everything and Norway’s<br />
diskJokke, while Dutch dubstep<br />
dude 2562 stormed the place<br />
two years ago. Bands are booked<br />
close to the time to ensure the<br />
hottest talent, and all the town’s<br />
bars boom with beats and breaks.<br />
festival.eurosonic-noorderslag.nl<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
FEBRUARY<br />
Festival Del<br />
Fumetto<br />
MILAN<br />
Kids (and big kids), get ready for<br />
one of the biggest animation events<br />
in Europe. Cartoon fans can enjoy<br />
fi lm screenings, book signings and<br />
Q&A sessions, plus computergame<br />
competitions and displays of<br />
graphic art from all over the world<br />
on 4-5 February. Life-size models of<br />
Superman will adorn exhibition halls,<br />
while speeches from illustrators<br />
and animators bring their graphic<br />
novels to life. This year there’s a<br />
Japanese theme, so expect Mangaesque<br />
treats and anime galore in<br />
Milan’s COMIS exhibition centre.<br />
festivaldelfumetto.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 37
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
HOTEL REVIEWS | NEWS & OFFERS<br />
sleep easy<br />
NHOW HOTEL<br />
BERLIN<br />
Perfect for those who prefer turntables<br />
to dining tables, the newly opened nhow<br />
hotel is the place to hang out with other<br />
music lovers in one of Europe’s hippest<br />
cities. Mixing the surreal interiors of<br />
designer Karim Rashid with state-ofthe-art<br />
technology, the hotel’s décor is a<br />
dynamic, multi-sensory experience.<br />
Entertainment, especially of the<br />
musical kind, is an integral part of<br />
38 | TRAVELLER<br />
The dell’Orologio<br />
off ers a glimpse<br />
of the real Pisa<br />
the experience. In the 304 rooms and<br />
suites you can choose to watch from 100<br />
music stations, 5,000 online movies or,<br />
with a quick call to room service, get<br />
your own slick Gibson electric guitar to<br />
strum a few power chords on.<br />
There are also two fully equipped<br />
recording studios for guests who are<br />
musically talented, though you may<br />
have to wait in line – the opportunity<br />
to work and play in the same space is<br />
already attracting Europe’s top groups.<br />
From €97.75. Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
HOTEL RELAIS<br />
DELL’OROLOGIO<br />
PISA<br />
Forget the stereotype of Pisa as a tourist<br />
city. Not far from Piazza dei Miracoli,<br />
where the resplendent Duomo and<br />
leaning tower lie, you’ll fi nd that the<br />
town has a relaxed, authentic vibe<br />
of its own. The real Pisa is a blend of<br />
charming cobble-stoned alleyways, with<br />
locals sipping mid-morning espressos,<br />
sun-dappled piazzas and laid-back<br />
hotels, such as the Relais dell’Orologio.<br />
This exclusive hotel is set in a regal<br />
14th-century building on a quiet street<br />
just 100m from the tower, but nestled<br />
between a homely osteria (café) and<br />
grand, residential homes, it feels miles<br />
away. All the hotel’s 21 rooms have been<br />
sensitively remodelled to make the most<br />
of the original features and are kitted<br />
out with sumptuous furniture.<br />
Weather permitting, enjoy<br />
breakfast in the pretty courtyard or<br />
the airy garden room. Dine at Hallet’s<br />
restaurant and you’ll be rewarded<br />
with Tuscan cuisine prepared and<br />
served with a fl ourish. Stuffed ravioli,<br />
indulgent truffl e pastas and beautifully<br />
prepared meat dishes all look like works<br />
of art – and taste even better. From<br />
€135. Book at hotels.easyJet.com
WORDS AMY DENNIS, CLAIRE MARTIN, SCOTT ADAMS<br />
3<br />
OF THE<br />
BEST<br />
PARIS<br />
Cool it in the city of romance’s fi rst ice<br />
bar, set in this 41-room design hotel. The<br />
Greygoose Vodka bar serves up a menu of<br />
vodka-only cocktails, light meals and a DJ<br />
every night. If you feel the chill, the beds<br />
upstairs include faux fur details that should<br />
help to warm things up. From €167.50. Book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
BERLIN<br />
Based in Mitte, this art hotel does everything<br />
with eff ortless cool and its bar area is no<br />
exception. Award-winning staff rustle up the<br />
best cocktails in town to a DJ soundtrack.<br />
The rooftop terrace off ers terrifi c panoramic<br />
views, but culture lovers may just stay inside<br />
to enjoy the extensive art collection. From<br />
€84. Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
KUBE AMANO THE TRAFALGAR<br />
LATEST NEWS<br />
HOTELS WITH DESTINATION BARS<br />
ISTANBUL<br />
With its minimalist design and seriously<br />
convenient city-centre location, the<br />
latest addition to the reliably-cool<br />
Barceló family ticks many of the right<br />
boxes for urban travellers. The newlyopened<br />
hotel also boasts splendid<br />
panoramic views of the Blue Mosque<br />
and other sights that can be enjoyed<br />
from the rooftop. From €102. Book at<br />
barcelosaray.com<br />
BUCHAREST<br />
The small town of Pitesti is about an<br />
hour’s drive from the Romanian capital,<br />
in the heart of the beautiful Wallachian<br />
countryside. An often over-looked gem<br />
on the banks of the Arges River, it’s now<br />
home to Ramada’s newest four-star<br />
offering. With 135 rooms, a fi tness<br />
centre and two restaurants, it provides<br />
a scenic base from which to explore the<br />
surrounding area. From €73.85. Book<br />
at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
LONDON<br />
Located just off Oxford Street, the<br />
693-room super-hotel Thistle Marble<br />
Arch has fi nished refurbishing its<br />
Glenn Miller bar and Marmor Grill<br />
restaurant. With its aesthetic nod to the<br />
hotel’s classic 1930s art deco décor and<br />
a menu that’s all locally sourced, the<br />
restaurant certainly sounds promising,<br />
while the traditional bar, named after<br />
an American jazz musician, includes<br />
memorabilia from his era. From<br />
€233.42. Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
LONDON<br />
Located on Trafalgar Square, addresses<br />
don’t get much better than this in London,<br />
and the Vista bar is unsurprisingly popular.<br />
With such fantastic views out across the city<br />
skyline, it wouldn’t really matter what the<br />
waiters served here, but they do dish out<br />
terrifi cally more-ish cocktails. From €352.<br />
Book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
End your day with<br />
a relaxing meal<br />
overlooking the Blue<br />
Mosque in Istanbul<br />
THIS MONTH’S<br />
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Until recently, Tenerife<br />
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At LOS AMIGOS, you’ll<br />
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person per night. Book at<br />
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You may struggle to<br />
pull yourself away from<br />
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HOSTELONE PRAGUE,<br />
with its cool kitchen-dining<br />
area and comfy couch. But<br />
the delights of the Old Town<br />
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away. From €12.35 per<br />
person per night. Book at<br />
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TRAVELLER | 39
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
YOUR BUSINESS<br />
WILL TAKE FLIGHT<br />
GERMANY’S NEWEST AIRPORT WILL OFFER UNRIVALLED<br />
COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES, AND THE BERLIN BRANDENBURG<br />
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THE YEAR 2012 marks the opening of<br />
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(BER), which is set to be the most advanced<br />
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Berlin, its excellent connections to major<br />
regional and international transport routes<br />
and its enviable location in the centre of<br />
Europe are the airport’s trademark features.<br />
The Berlin Brandenburg Airport is destined<br />
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The new airport will connect the Berlin<br />
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A special freeway interchange, a high-speed<br />
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The terminals’ ‘Airport City’ includes<br />
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The airport’s initial capacity will be more<br />
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REGIONAL ADVANTAGES<br />
As many as 34 industrial parks with high<br />
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With its many scientifi c and R&D facilities,<br />
the Berlin Brandenburg region also boasts the<br />
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The team of the Airport Region offi ce<br />
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Together with their partners, the team<br />
provides comprehensive individual<br />
consultation, from choosing a location<br />
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XDummy caption style<br />
dummy caption here<br />
XDummy caption style<br />
ATTRACTIVE COMMERCIAL<br />
LOCATIONS RIGHT IN THE<br />
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ECONOMIC AREA<br />
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Germany<br />
Tel: +49 30 63 499 399 0<br />
airport-region.de<br />
contact@airport-region.de<br />
PHOTO © BJÖRN ROLLE / BERLINER FLUGHÄFEN
**<br />
Get<br />
yourself to<br />
Val Tho !<br />
*6 nights accommodation in a 4 person studio (full occupancy) + 5-day Val Thorens/Orelle ski<br />
passes - for weeks from the 17/12 to the 22/12/<strong>2011</strong>. Offers subjected to conditions.<br />
Für mich gemacht<br />
/person 250 /week<br />
€*<br />
From<br />
www.valthorens.com<br />
The perfect place to stay in Munich<br />
With free parking and 101 fully fitted rooms featuring a fresh, contemporary design, B&B Hotel München-Airport<br />
has a lot to offer. Most of all: peace and quiet. The hotel may be next to the airport, but as all windows are soundproofed,<br />
you won’t hear a thing. B&B Hotel München-Airport offers air-conditioned rooms with free Wi-Fi and free Sky satellite TV.<br />
An all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet is provided each morning in the modern dining room. If you fancy exploring Munich,<br />
the city centre is just 20 minutes away by car.<br />
To find out more or make a reservation, visit www.hotelbb.de<br />
B&B Hotel Munich Airport:<br />
Messerschmittstrasse 1 (Navi: Dornierstraße) · 85399 Hallbergmoos<br />
0811 99885-0 muenchen-airport@hotelbb.com<br />
www.hotelbb.de<br />
OFFICE DE TOURISME DE VAL THORENS. Crédit photo : P.Lebeau.<br />
*Marre des stations sans neige ? Va plutôt à Val Tho.
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
Leib<br />
TALLINN<br />
Kristjan Peäske and Janno Lepik<br />
opened Leib, which means “bread” in<br />
Estonian, because they longed to serve<br />
good, simple food using fresh, local<br />
ingredients at sensible prices.<br />
A noble ambition indeed, but the<br />
setting charms even before you make it<br />
to the dining room: through wroughtiron<br />
gates, past the busts of Robert<br />
Burns and Sean Connery (this site is<br />
also home to Estonia’s Scottish Club)<br />
and into a garden overlooked by an<br />
Old Town stone tower. Sit on the pretty<br />
terrace or in the colonnaded interior,<br />
with a wonderful roaring fi re.<br />
Then the food arrives. White rolls<br />
and sweet black bread, both made<br />
to Leib’s own recipes, are a perfect<br />
complement to the deliciously creamy<br />
chanterelle soup (€5). The organic beef<br />
fi llet’s blackcurrant sauce adds interest<br />
without overwhelming (€16), while<br />
Sassotondo<br />
PARIS<br />
While there may be many places serving<br />
pasta and pizza in Paris, newly opened<br />
Sassotondo goes well beyond simply<br />
serving up the usual Italian mainstays.<br />
Owner Frédéric Hubig has worked hard<br />
to capture the true essence of Tuscany, a<br />
region he admires for its cuisine and its<br />
character, both in the food and décor.<br />
Inside, you’ll fi nd a cosy atmosphere<br />
and quirky elements, such as a collage of<br />
black-and-white images of 1960s Italy.<br />
Hubig and his Tuscan-born chef,<br />
Michele Dalla Valle, have created a<br />
menu that will transport you, through<br />
sight, taste and smell, to the Italian<br />
hills. The chef has sourced recipes from<br />
locals, and even family members, to<br />
produce dishes that have never graced<br />
a Parisian restaurant table before.<br />
Starters include a selection of<br />
antipasti, the highlight being the fennel<br />
seed-fl avoured salami and the extra<br />
42 | TRAVELLER<br />
the catch of the day, pike perch (€12),<br />
served on fennel and extraordinarily<br />
fl uffy mashed potatoes, is a delight.<br />
Do be sure to leave room for one of<br />
the desserts as well; these use regional<br />
ingredients to delicious effect – as seen<br />
in the trio of black bread, cottage cheese<br />
and sea-buckthorn ice creams (€4).<br />
creamy burrata cheese marinated<br />
with aubergine and fresh mint. The<br />
homemade pasta has guests in raptures<br />
– a particular favourite is spaghetti with<br />
clams, artichokes and spring onions.<br />
However, with winter coming, you may<br />
not want to miss the juicy roast pigeon<br />
served with a side dish of tender Savoy<br />
Peäske and Lepik seem to have done<br />
exactly what they set out to do, but you<br />
don’t have to take our word for it – ask<br />
Estonian president Toomas Hendrik,<br />
who was sitting at the next table.<br />
31 Uus Tänav, tel: +372 611 9026,<br />
leibresto.ee<br />
Liz Granirer<br />
cabbage, a backbone of Italian cooking.<br />
A selection of sensual desserts, (my<br />
pick was the cannoli fi lled with velvety<br />
mascarpone and rhubarb) concludes the<br />
impressivel menu.<br />
40 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud,<br />
tel: +33 (0)1 4355 5700.<br />
Scott Adams
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CELSIUS:<br />
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Celsius S.cons.r.l<br />
Via degli orti 8 - 55100 Lucca<br />
info@celsius.lucca.it, Tel. 0583.469729<br />
www.celsius.lucca.it<br />
www.unipi.it<br />
OFFICE DE TOURISME DE VAL THORENS. Crédit photo : P.Lebeau.<br />
*Marre des remontées interminables ? Va plutôt à Val Tho.
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
WINTER<br />
WONDERLAND<br />
WITH CHARMING RESORTS, THRILLING<br />
ACTIVITIES AND A BREATHTAKING MOUNTAIN<br />
BACKDROP, THE LAKE GENEVA REGION<br />
HAS YOUR WINTER HOLIDAY SORTED<br />
THE SWISS ALPS are an adventure<br />
playground par excellence, hosting a<br />
range of sports and fun activities across<br />
225km of slopes that give panoramic<br />
views across the region’s awesome<br />
landscape. Downhill and cross-country<br />
skiing, snowshoeing and snowboarding<br />
are among visitors’ favourites, as well<br />
as tobogganing, skating and curling.<br />
Glacier 3000, the highest peak in<br />
the Les Diablerets area, has slopes<br />
and a snow park open from October<br />
to May. Whether you’re travelling on<br />
foot, in a snow bus or with a dog sled,<br />
it’s a stunning destination. The whole<br />
family will love the 7km tobogganing<br />
track in Les Diablerets, which is open<br />
every day and several nights a week.<br />
Chic Villars has panoramic views of the<br />
Alps and Rhone Valley. In winter, the<br />
100km of slopes in the Villars-Gryon-<br />
Les Diablerets and Glacier 3000 area<br />
mean you can leave and return without<br />
taking your skis off. For the non-skier,<br />
there’s an ice rink, winter walking, cog<br />
railway and sports centre.<br />
Over in Leysin, a revolving restaurant<br />
offers breathtaking views of the<br />
surrounding mountains — at an<br />
altitude of over 2,000m, it’s powered<br />
by solar energy. Less relaxed, but more<br />
exciting, the Tobogganing Park lets you<br />
whizz down special tracks on infl ated<br />
air tubes. For the brave, an impressive<br />
jump has been built this year.<br />
This wonderful winter region also<br />
plays host to various festivals and<br />
events. The International Hot-Air<br />
Balloon Festival, in Château-d’Oex,<br />
(21-29 January 2012) welcomes over<br />
100 hot air balloons from around<br />
the world. In February and March,<br />
the Villars Night Show runs a<br />
stunning sound and light extravaganza<br />
on the snow, with fi reworks, sporting<br />
feats, laser shows and performances<br />
by artists.<br />
The alpine resorts of the Lake<br />
Geneva Region are also close to<br />
Lausanne, Montreux-Riviera and<br />
Yverdon-les-Bains, where traditional<br />
Christmas markets showcase regional<br />
wares and high-quality handicrafts.<br />
lake-geneva-region.ch<br />
BRING THE KIDS<br />
The Lake Geneva Region welcomes<br />
children throughout the season with<br />
free ski passes and accommodation<br />
(for children up to nine years).<br />
Conditions and further information<br />
are available at alpes.ch<br />
PHOTOS © STEPHAN ENGLER AND L RYSER
die<br />
Get<br />
yourself to<br />
Val Tho !<br />
P.Lebeau. :<br />
/person<br />
photo<br />
250 /week<br />
Crédit THORENS.<br />
*6 nights accommodation in a 4 person studio (full occupancy) + 5-day Val Thorens/Orelle ski VAL DE<br />
passes - for weeks from the 17/12 to the 22/12/<strong>2011</strong>. Offers subjected to conditions.<br />
TOURISME DE<br />
www.valthorens.com<br />
** OFFICE €*<br />
From<br />
Individuelle Firmen-/<br />
Weihnachtsfeiern!<br />
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Silvester-Dinner & Gala (31.12.)<br />
Infos & Karten: madi-zelt.de | 030 - 43 00 42 72<br />
YOU WILL BE TOTALLY MOVED<br />
Peer Gynt<br />
BALLETT BY HEINZ SPOERLI<br />
Musik by Edvard Grieg | Brett Dean | Mark-Anthony Turnage<br />
Conductor Robert Reimer<br />
With Vladimir Malakhov and Dancers of Staatsballett Berlin<br />
Actor Sebastian Hülk<br />
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20 | 25 | 28 | 29 NOVEMBER | 2 DECEMBER <strong>2011</strong><br />
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN<br />
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**Marre des soirées ringardes ? Va plutôt à Val Tho.
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
MEAT<br />
MARKET<br />
FROM GOURMET BURGERS TO RESTAURANTS WHERE YOU CAN LITERALLY MEET<br />
YOUR MEAT, A RED-BLOODED REVOLUTION IS TAKING PLACE IN STOCKHOLM<br />
46 | TRAVELLER<br />
VICTORIA LARSSON<br />
DALE EDWIN MURRAY
IT MIGHT BE COLD OUTSIDE, BUT<br />
meat is sizzling hot on the Stockholm<br />
culinary scene right now. While food<br />
critics solemnly argue over burgers,<br />
bickering about how to grind the meat<br />
and whether buns need to be sprinkled<br />
with sesame seeds or not, nose-to-tail<br />
eating has become the latest gourmet<br />
vogue across town and many eateries<br />
now offer a variety of exotic animals on<br />
their menus.<br />
Indeed, meat is the revered focus of<br />
nearly every new, high-profi le restaurant<br />
venture currently opening its doors in<br />
the Swedish capital and it’s turning the<br />
the city into a carnivore’s must-visit.<br />
With all this delicious protein on offer,<br />
just be sure to eat your vegetables too.<br />
MEET THE MEAT<br />
Serious food connoisseurs want to know<br />
as much as possible about the meat and<br />
this is the inspiration for the new wave<br />
of eateries where you see the cuts before<br />
they’re cooked. See them at:<br />
KÖTTBAREN It doubles as a deli selling<br />
bacon chips at the counter, but before<br />
you move into the bistro section, be sure<br />
to study the steaks and sausages in the<br />
refrigerated display window.<br />
32 Tegnérgatan; tel: +46 (0)8 5052<br />
4426, kottbaren.se<br />
AG (below) After going up two fl ights<br />
of residential stairs, the fi rst thing that<br />
meets you is a large glass refrigerator<br />
displaying dry-aged cuts of beef. The<br />
porterhouse with creamed spinach and<br />
hash browns for two is the big seller,<br />
despite the price tag of SEK 875 (€95).<br />
37 Kronobergsgatan; tel: +46 (0)8 4106<br />
8100, restaurangag.se<br />
“GREEN” MEAT<br />
Nose-to-tail eating was pioneered<br />
by Fergus Henderson of the St John<br />
restaurant in London. His idea of<br />
using all the parts of an animal (locally<br />
sourced and organicaly reared, of<br />
course) has been hailed as the most<br />
humane and sustainable way to enjoy<br />
meat, and now the trend has come to<br />
Stockholm. Give it a go at:<br />
DJURET Swedish for “the animal”,<br />
this forest-green restaurant, decorated<br />
with meat charts, bull’s-eye tablecloths<br />
and stuffed animals serves the whole<br />
beast, one at a time. On a recent visit, a<br />
cow from acclaimed local organic beef<br />
producer Upplandsbonden was on offer.<br />
5 Lilla Nygatan; tel: +46 (0)8 5064<br />
0084, djuret.se<br />
SVARTENGRENS All the meat<br />
hails from local, free-range farms that<br />
raise animals on natural diets and<br />
have their own slaughtering facilities<br />
to bypass stressful transports, which<br />
can harm the animal and the taste.<br />
Sausages are house-made to minimise<br />
waste and you might fi nd gizzards<br />
on the menu. On a recent visit, lamb<br />
sweetbreads and marrow were on offer,<br />
as well as T-bone steak and pork belly.<br />
24 Tulegatan; tel: +46 (0)8 612 6550,<br />
svartengrens.se<br />
EXOTIC BARBECUE<br />
Some attribute the current meat<br />
craze to actor-turned-celebrity-chef<br />
and proud hunter Per Moberg, as his<br />
macho TV shows and cookbooks revolve<br />
around big hunks of meat. As a result,<br />
grill houses serving BBQ-style foods<br />
have been popping up across the city,<br />
often offering exotic cuts. For he-man<br />
eating, you can try:<br />
STOCKHOLM STEAKHOUSE<br />
Head here for a more home-grown<br />
approach to exoticism, where<br />
you’ll fi nd wild things from<br />
the Nordic forests paired with<br />
Swedish spirits, such as akvakvit<br />
(aquavit) and brännvin (a vodka<br />
liqueur). Game is the name of the<br />
game here – how about an elk<br />
sausage or smoked reindeer?<br />
67 Drottninggatan; tel: +46 (0)8<br />
102 953, stockholmsteakhouse.se<br />
GRILL (above right) Breaking all the<br />
rules of Scandinavian minimalism,<br />
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
this gaudy Alice-in-Wonderland-esque<br />
restaurant serves meats from fi ve<br />
different parts of the world, prepared<br />
on fi ve types of grills, in eight kitschy<br />
dining rooms modelled on, for example,<br />
Versailles or the Moulin Rouge. Kobe<br />
beef from Japan, strip loin from<br />
North Dakota and Black Angus from<br />
Argentina are some of the imported<br />
delicacies on offer.<br />
89 Drottninggatan; tel: +46 (0)8 314<br />
530, grill.se<br />
GOURMET BURGERS<br />
Previously associated with greasy<br />
fast-food joints, the burger has been<br />
upgraded and now even Michelinstarred<br />
restaurants in the capital are<br />
serving them. Enjoy one at:<br />
MATHIAS DAHLGREN At 65g,<br />
Stockholm’s priciest hamburger is small<br />
but juicy, coated in melted Gruyère<br />
cheese and served on a butter-soaked<br />
piece of toast. It will set you back a<br />
whopping SEK 350 (€38). Grand Hôtel,<br />
6 Södra Blasieholmshamnen; tel: +46<br />
(0)8 679 3584, mathiasdahlgren.com<br />
PUBOLOGI This designer gastro-pub<br />
in touristy Gamla Stan (the Old Town)<br />
serves a 300g, charcoal-grilled, Comtécheese-draped<br />
burger (SEK 260 [€28])<br />
to fi ll even the hungriest soul. We have<br />
an important tip for you though: avoid<br />
the communal table if you don’t want<br />
strangers to see you with juices dripping<br />
down your chin.<br />
20 Stora Nygatan; tel: +46<br />
(0)8 5064 0086, pubologi.se<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
Stockholm from Geveva.<br />
See our insider guide on page 174.<br />
Book online at easyJet.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 47
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
XX | TRAVELLER
“I’M GOING TO ASK YOU A QUESTION,” says Ferran<br />
Adrià, in prickly response to a question that I’ve just<br />
asked. “Can you explain to me the difference between<br />
molecular cuisine and molecular gastronomy?”<br />
After a lengthy silence, the chef-cum-philosopher,<br />
who is widely regarded as the fi nest cook of his<br />
generation, fi nally puts me out of my misery: “The<br />
problem is, one exists, the other doesn’t. The other is<br />
just a name people have given. This revolution, which<br />
you call molecular cuisine, was born in 1994. It’s a very<br />
local movement. It started in el Bulli.”<br />
The question I’d asked had felt innocent enough to<br />
me – “What is your reaction to the word ‘molecular’?”<br />
– but to Adrià it was like a red rag to a bull. It’s<br />
probably because he’s been hearing it – or a variation<br />
thereof – for quite some time.<br />
El Bulli was Adrià’s triple-Michelin-starred<br />
restaurant located near the sleepy resort of Roses<br />
on the Costa Brava, a couple of hours’ drive north<br />
of Barcelona. The winner of the S Pelligrino World’s<br />
Best Restaurant Award in 2002, and four more times<br />
from 2006 to 2009, the restaurant was famed for its<br />
highly experimental cuisine – referred to as molecular<br />
gastronomy by the media (though not Adrià).<br />
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
Portrait<br />
of an<br />
Artist<br />
EL BULLI RESTAURANT MAY BE NO MORE, BUT ITS GUIDING GENIUS,<br />
FERRAN ADRIÀ, REMAINS A BUSY MAN. AS HIS FIRST COOKBOOK<br />
LAUNCHES, WE WENT TO MEET THE WORLD’S GREATEST CHEF<br />
DUNCAN RHODES<br />
LORENA ROS<br />
And what an experience it was... At least for<br />
the 8,000 people who managed to get a table (out<br />
of the two million who applied each season). For<br />
these lucky few, el Bulli’s 75 staff would conduct<br />
a gastronomic symphony over 40 courses in what<br />
Adrià refers to as “performances” or “concerts”, rather<br />
than meals. Diners would be presented with such<br />
improbable dishes as tender almond turnover with<br />
Szechuan button and cucumber balls in liquorice<br />
and yuzu; lychee soup with spherical capsules and a<br />
spoonful of frozen tarragon powder with, perhaps,<br />
eucalyptus water-ice for dessert. In a restaurant that<br />
knew no creative limits, ordinary foodstuffs were<br />
transmogrifi ed into new shapes and textures, and<br />
bullied into balls, foams, airs and capsules, with some<br />
dishes evaporating before diners’ eyes or disappearing<br />
into their mouths, only to reappear as clouds of<br />
nitrogen through their nostrils.<br />
The restaurant closed its doors for the last time<br />
earlier this year, but it’s there that we’re sitting – in<br />
the nerve centre of the very operation. It’s a place that<br />
few, barring Adrià’s own staff, have seen: the kitchen<br />
of el Bulli. Is it some kind of space-age lab manned by<br />
silver-suited technicians wielding hand-me-down<br />
TRAVELLER | 49
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
lasers from NASA? Well, no, actually.<br />
It’s a surprisingly small space, occupied<br />
by four or fi ve ordinary-looking<br />
work surfaces and densely populated<br />
by men and women in plain white<br />
shirts and black aprons (the same<br />
apparel favoured by Adrià, incidentally),<br />
most of whom are armed with nothing<br />
more mysterious than pots, pans and<br />
wooden spoons.<br />
Though Adrià is credited with<br />
kicking off molecular cooking (he calls<br />
it “avant garde cuisine”), using scientifi c<br />
theory to complement traditional<br />
kitchen techniques, to him it’s a<br />
meaningless tag. “It makes no sense,”<br />
he says. “If using modern technology<br />
makes me a molecular chef, then you<br />
are a molecular journalist.” He points<br />
at my digital recorder to illustrate his<br />
point. “The technology we are using is<br />
not that advanced. The microwave oven,<br />
which dates back to the 1980s, is more<br />
advanced than most of the equipment<br />
we have.”<br />
Hailing from L’Hospitalet de<br />
Llobregat, a rough, working-class district on the<br />
outskirts of Barcelona, it’s fair to say that Adrià’s<br />
culinary background is somewhat at odds with his<br />
achievements. After leaving school in 1980, he got<br />
a job as a dishwasher at a hotel. A year later, he was<br />
drafted into military service, where he worked as a<br />
cook. Following that, he found work at el Bulli by<br />
chance (then a one-star Michelin restaurant). But the<br />
then head chef clearly liked what he saw. In 1984, after<br />
just 18 months in the kitchen and aged 22, Adrià was<br />
promoted to head chef.<br />
Back then, the food at el Bulli was far more<br />
conventional. It was only in the mid-1990s that Adrià<br />
DO IT YOURSELF<br />
MACKEREL AND<br />
POTATO STEW<br />
This dish, from Adrià’s<br />
forthcoming book, is a susquet<br />
(fi sh stew) with a tomato,<br />
paprika and parsley sauce. Ask<br />
your fi shmonger to clean and<br />
gut the fi sh for you if you prefer.<br />
You can add picada (a garlic,<br />
saff ron and parsley seasoning)<br />
and use plain mayonnaise<br />
instead of aioli if you like.<br />
50 | TRAVELLER<br />
INGREDIENTS<br />
Mackerel<br />
350g each<br />
New potatoes<br />
Tomatoes<br />
coarsely grated<br />
Olive oil<br />
Garlic cloves<br />
Fresh parsley<br />
fi nely chopped<br />
Sweet paprika<br />
Fish stock<br />
Cornfl our<br />
Aioli<br />
“From that moment, it<br />
was about giving diners a<br />
gastronomical experience”<br />
FOR 2 FOR 6<br />
1 3<br />
250g<br />
1½ tbsp<br />
1½ tbsp<br />
2<br />
1½ tbsp<br />
1 tsp<br />
400ml<br />
1 tsp<br />
½ tsp<br />
began to develop the style that he’s now known for.<br />
“There was one specifi c year, 1994, when we started<br />
our very personal concept of cuisine,” he says. “From<br />
that moment, we changed our attitude and it was<br />
about giving the diners a gastronomical experience.”<br />
Since then the restaurant has never looked back,<br />
but the reason I’m here today is to experience a more<br />
down-to-earth fare that was served daily at el Bulli.<br />
Namely, the “family meal”, a long-standing and fairly<br />
widespread restaurant tradition: before service each<br />
evening, waiting staff and chefs come together to eat.<br />
Not only is it a way for staff to bond, but it ensures<br />
the team is well fuelled before a long shift. Every<br />
750g<br />
4 tbsp<br />
3 tbsp<br />
5<br />
4 tbsp<br />
3 tsp<br />
1.2L<br />
2 tsp<br />
1 tsp<br />
Cut the head and tail off the<br />
mackerel. Cut along the belly of<br />
the fi sh and remove the insides<br />
using your hands or a spoon.<br />
el Bulli staff enjoying<br />
the three-course<br />
family meal before<br />
their shift begins<br />
Rinse under cold water to<br />
remove any blood, then cut the<br />
body into three equal pieces.
Chop the garlic, then cut<br />
the potatoes into pieces about<br />
3cm across.<br />
Put the fl esh of the grated<br />
tomatoes into a sieve and<br />
leave to drain over a bowl for 15<br />
minutes. Discard the juice.<br />
Ferran Adrià serves<br />
up a simple but<br />
delicious fi rst course<br />
of pasta with tomato<br />
and basil sauce<br />
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
restaurant has its own way of doing things, but at<br />
el Bulli, the family meal was just as meticulously<br />
planned as that night’s “performance”. It had to be,<br />
as preparing and eating this three-course supper had<br />
to be juggled with the arduous daily task of providing<br />
the 40-plus avant garde courses.<br />
After solving all manner of timing and budgeting<br />
restraints in order to feed his troops, Adrià realised the<br />
sum of this know-how was well worth sandwiching in<br />
a book cover, as an aid to both fellow restaurateurs and<br />
home cooks alike. “The basic idea [for the book] was<br />
born out in looking for recipes for our crew that were<br />
bueno, bonito y barato (healthy, tasty and cheap) and<br />
easy to make. We found it wasn’t that easy.” However,<br />
after much experimentation, which included sending<br />
el Bulli staff to the supermarket to buy for two, four<br />
and six people, Adrià’s team compiled a cookbook of<br />
31 three-course menus. And, while few of the book’s<br />
individual recipes are the groundbreaking fare that<br />
el Bulli is famous for (you can fi nd many of them on<br />
the internet), according to Adrià, one of the main<br />
aims of the The Family Meal is to lead budding<br />
home economists step-by-step through the entire<br />
preparation process of each menu.<br />
“If you have a menu, where do you start? Take<br />
what we’re eating today. You have the spaghetti with<br />
sauce, the fi sh and the dessert. Most people would not<br />
know where to begin. The fi rst thing to do would be<br />
the mousse. You need time for it to sit and if you cook<br />
something else fi rst, that dish will get cold.”<br />
As it’s a stomach-rumbling fi ve o’clock by the time<br />
we sit down to eat lunch, I’m happy to discover that<br />
the aforementioned starter, served with a simple<br />
tomato sauce and fresh basil, is of main-course<br />
proportions; and true to the family-meal<br />
philosophy, it’s healthy, tasty and cheap – but it<br />
isn’t mind-blowing. So it’s not a surprise when Adrià<br />
stipulates that the three courses should cost less<br />
than €3.50 per head – the equivalent of a street-<br />
Pour the oil into a large pan<br />
over medium heat. Add the<br />
garlic and, as it turns golden, the<br />
tomato and most of the parsley.<br />
Cook for fi ve minutes, then stir<br />
in the paprika. Add the potatoes<br />
and stir until well coated in the<br />
garlic, tomato and paprika mix.<br />
TRAVELLER | 51
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
side hamburger – and take no more than an hour<br />
to prepare. The next dish, however, is as delicious as<br />
anything you’d expect from an upscale restaurant.<br />
And, as it’s served on shared platters on the kitchen<br />
worktops, I’m able to slyly help myself to a second<br />
helping of succulent fi sh with olive oil and garlic chips.<br />
My favourite dish of the day, though, turns out to<br />
be the dessert: a caramel mousse served straight from<br />
a siphon – the meal’s one slight allusion to the world<br />
of molecular gastronomy. Adrià demonstrates his<br />
mischievous side by insisting I serve my own portion.<br />
After fi rst holding the fl ask-like container the wrong<br />
way round (you’re supposed to invert it), I proceed<br />
to furnish the tabletop with a bigger portion than<br />
my plate as I misjudge the pressure. If Adrià found<br />
this funny, I’m at least equally amused at having the<br />
world’s greatest chef hand me a squeezy plastic bottle<br />
of the kind you’d expect to see on a cheap hot-dog<br />
stand, and encourage me to squirt a liberal helping of<br />
chocolate sauce over my dessert. I feel like a child being<br />
indulged by a good-humoured dinner lady.<br />
Sitting with members of staff in a plastic chair that<br />
is too low for the kitchen’s elevated work surfaces, the<br />
celebrated chef seems more relaxed than during any<br />
other part of the day. And, by the time you read this, he<br />
will have closed el Bulli the restaurant and embarked<br />
on a three-year working holiday before launching the<br />
el Bulli Foundation on the same premises. Is he sad to<br />
close this chapter of culinary history?<br />
“I’m happier than ever!” he says. “I am going to<br />
do what everybody hopes to do: almost three years<br />
to travel, to learn, to meet incredible people and to<br />
start this project [the el Bulli Foundation] which is a<br />
dream come true.”<br />
While foodies will bemoan the lost opportunity to<br />
dine at the world’s best table, the gastronomic world<br />
as a whole stands to benefi t. No longer held back by<br />
the burden of performing 145 “concerts” a year (el Bulli<br />
was only open six months in 12), Adrià explains that<br />
Pour in the stock and simmer<br />
for 20 minutes or until the<br />
potatoes are just tender.<br />
52 | TRAVELLER<br />
Season the fi sh with salt and<br />
pepper. Add to the pan. Cook<br />
gently for fi ve minutes. Mix the<br />
cornfl our with a little cold water.<br />
Ferran Adrià in the kitchen of<br />
el Bulli back in 2004, when<br />
the restaurant was still<br />
“performing” 145 times a year<br />
“The scenario will change<br />
slightly, but the el Bulli<br />
soul will remain”<br />
his work emphasis will switch from “90% production<br />
and 10% creativity to 90% creativity and 10%<br />
production”, focusing on inventing new recipes with<br />
the results put on the internet daily for all to see.<br />
“It will still be el Bulli – it will always be el Bulli,” he<br />
says. “No one will say El Bulli restaurant any longer.<br />
The scenario will change slightly, but the el Bulli soul<br />
will remain.”<br />
The Family Meal: Home Cooking with Ferran Adrià,<br />
published by Phaidon, £19.95 (€23); phaidon.com<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
Barcelona from 13 destinations. See our insider<br />
guide on page 114. Book online at easyJet.com<br />
Carefully stir in the cornfl ower<br />
until the sauce thickens slightly.<br />
Cook until the fi sh fl akes easily<br />
from the bone. Stir in the aioli.<br />
Finish by sprinkling with<br />
the remaining parsley and<br />
GETTY<br />
©<br />
seasoning with salt. Serve the<br />
stew in shallow bowls. PHOTO
FEATURE | THESSALONIKI<br />
The Arch of Galerius<br />
has been standing for<br />
over 1,700 years and<br />
originally spanned the<br />
Roman road through<br />
the city<br />
54 | TRAVELLER
FEATURE | THESSALONIKI<br />
FIVE YEARS AGO, AUTHOR VICTORIA HISLOP FELL IN LOVE WITH THE<br />
CITY OF THESSALONIKI. SHE’S NOW SET HER LATEST NOVEL THERE; AND,<br />
WRITING HERE EXCLUSIVELY, SHE REVEALS HOW THE CITY INSPIRED HER<br />
RAMA KNIGHT<br />
TRAVELLER | 55
FEATURE | THESSALONIKI<br />
MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF THESSALONIKI was on a<br />
damp November day about fi ve years ago. I had been<br />
invited to talk at the university and had fl own there for<br />
the night with a change of clothes in my hand luggage<br />
and a few notes. It had not even occurred to me to buy<br />
a guidebook.<br />
As I was taken by taxi to the campus, I peered<br />
through a thick grey mist and saw very little apart<br />
from people scurrying along dark, tree-lined streets,<br />
men and women alike in black puffa jackets hunched<br />
against the rain. I distinctly remember thinking, “I’m<br />
glad I won’t be here long.”<br />
The next morning, everything changed. The fog<br />
had lifted and Thessaloniki’s magic revealed itself.<br />
From my hotel window, I found myself looking across<br />
a huge, glittering bay to Mount<br />
Olympus, Greece’s highest<br />
mountain, and I began to be<br />
amazed by this city on the sea.<br />
In the bright sunshine of that day<br />
(this is a city where the weather<br />
is almost as constant a topic of<br />
conversation as it is in the UK),<br />
I decided to take a walk.<br />
It was right then that my love<br />
affair began – and the fi rst seeds<br />
were sown for the idea of writing<br />
a novel about the city. Like most<br />
metropolises, Thessaloniki has<br />
sprawled in recent years but,<br />
unlike many, it has discernible<br />
boundaries: the sea on one side<br />
and a steep slope on another.<br />
I knew I could wander without<br />
getting lost because there would always be a glimpse<br />
of a sparkling bay to orient me.<br />
And what I saw captivated me: Thessaloniki<br />
seemed to have a little of every period and style. There<br />
were magnifi cent 3rd century remains, including<br />
a massive triumphal arch on which are carved the<br />
achievements of the Emperor Galerius and also a<br />
perfect rotunda, reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome.<br />
Called the Church of Agios Georgios, it stands at the<br />
crossroads of what are now Egnatia and Dimitriou<br />
Gounari streets. I learned that it has had many<br />
56 | TRAVELLER<br />
different chapters in its history: originally<br />
it was a polytheistic temple, then a church,<br />
afterwards a mosque and it was then<br />
reconsecrated as a church in 1912.<br />
There were plenty of quickly erected,<br />
1970s, fi ve- or six-storey concrete blocks<br />
which are ubiquitous in all Greek cities,<br />
but I also saw magnifi cent neo-classical<br />
mansions, with pillars and double stairways leading<br />
to grand front doors, and many art-deco buildings as<br />
well. In contrast, there was an atmospheric district<br />
full of Turkish-style houses and cobbled streets<br />
(known as the Upper Town), an area of old oil<br />
warehouses that had been converted into restaurants –<br />
Zythos (5 Katouni, Ladadika; tel: +30 231 054 0284)<br />
became one of my favourites – and dozens of bars.<br />
There was also a building which had been the<br />
old Ottoman baths and the atmospheric Modiano<br />
Market (32 Vasileos Irakleiou; tel: +30 231 023 7315),
I was looking across a<br />
huge glittering bay to<br />
Mount Olympus and I<br />
began to be amazed<br />
a huge, glass-topped construction built in 1922,<br />
where there are tavernas tucked between stalls<br />
laden with fresh produce. It is the noisiest, most<br />
aromatic place I have ever been and well worth a visit.<br />
When I got home after that fi rst trip, I read Mark<br />
Mazower’s Salonica: City of Ghosts, which explains<br />
why Thessaloniki developed the way it has. I found<br />
the 20th-century events that shaped it particularly<br />
enthralling. And the kernel of an idea for a novel began<br />
to form in my mind.<br />
In 1917, the 150,000-strong population was<br />
split between Greek Orthodox Christians, Jews<br />
and Muslims. During the Middle Ages, the latter<br />
formed the majority and you can see the legacy in<br />
the form of a minaret next to the Church of Agios<br />
Georgios and in the many Turkish-style buildings,<br />
including one in the centre (75 Apostolou Pavlou<br />
Street), which was the birthplace of Kemal Atatürk,<br />
founder of the Turkish Republic.<br />
From left, enjoying a<br />
coff ee in one of<br />
Ladadika’s cafés; you<br />
can walk for kilometres<br />
along the seafront<br />
esplanade; and below,<br />
colourful spices on sale<br />
at Modiano Market<br />
FEATURE | THESSALONIKI<br />
For almost the whole of the 20th century,<br />
Thessaloniki was torn apart by a series of dramatic<br />
events that shaped the place and left much behind,<br />
forcing a large proportion of both the Muslim and<br />
Jewish populations into exile.<br />
This history seemed very present on its streets<br />
– making it a perfect setting for my imaginary<br />
characters. The questions that I asked myself were:<br />
“What would it have been like to live through these<br />
times?” “How did people survive?” and “What does<br />
their history mean to people today?” In my many<br />
subsequent visits to Thessaloniki, these were the<br />
things that preoccupied me as I began to form the<br />
story for The Thread.<br />
Visitors should begin with a trip the White Tower,<br />
the city’s landmark monument. Climbing to the top,<br />
you get a good view of the city, so you can get your<br />
bearings. However, the best way to get oriented is to<br />
walk, and much of my research comprised simply<br />
wandering the streets. For me, there was no greater<br />
pleasure than to stroll alone, making frequent stops<br />
for coffee and one of the triangular, cream-fi lled<br />
pastries that the city is famous for – usually at<br />
Terkenlis (on theccorner of Tsimiski and Aristotelous<br />
Streets; terkenlis.gr), near Aristotelous Square.<br />
TRAVELLER | 57
FEATURE | THESSALONIKI<br />
Every kind of<br />
weather seems to<br />
suit it and the place<br />
constantly changes<br />
58 | TRAVELLER<br />
This page, the Church of<br />
Agios Georgios and the<br />
minaret left over from<br />
when the city was<br />
mostly Muslim;<br />
opposite page, cafés<br />
line Nikis Avenue along<br />
the seafront; and one of<br />
Thessaloniki’s many<br />
seamstresses, on whom<br />
Victoria Hislop based<br />
the main character<br />
of her new novel
For lunch, I was drawn<br />
time and again to a<br />
taverna called Pinaka<br />
(Ouzo Ston Pinaka, 32<br />
Balanou; tel: +30 (0)231<br />
028 0076), which has<br />
a vaguely retro feel.<br />
Everything tasted as if it<br />
had been bought from<br />
the nearby market and<br />
put straight on my plate.<br />
On my meanderings,<br />
I also noticed that there<br />
are a huge number of<br />
shops selling fabric,<br />
buttons and ribbons, and<br />
even shops that just sold sewing machines.<br />
Thessaloniki has enough clothes shops to satisfy any<br />
shopaholic and one day I fell in love. With a dress –<br />
I might add. It was in the window and I couldn’t<br />
resist. It was dark-blue satin with beading on the<br />
bodice and my excuse was that I needed something<br />
for a wedding. It seemed perfect but, alas, was much<br />
too big. However, a tailor appeared with her mouth<br />
full of pins and, in less than two minutes, had used<br />
them to fi t the dress. Within 24 hours, it was ready. As<br />
beautiful and well-fi tted as haute couture, but a mere<br />
€80. I treasure this dress, not just because it’s the only<br />
tailored thing in my wardrobe, but because it gave me<br />
the inspiration for my new novel’s main character, who<br />
is a seamstress.<br />
I’ve read that Thessaloniki was the centre of a huge<br />
fabric trade and the making of army uniforms, so this<br />
was a tradition that went back many centuries, with<br />
thousands of women skilled in sewing and tailoring.<br />
On my visits, I saw Thessaloniki in rain, snow<br />
and fog, storm and sunshine. Every kind of weather<br />
seems to suit it and the place constantly changes, with<br />
different moods and a variety of atmospheres. There<br />
are wonderful things to look at on rainy days: superb<br />
museums, such as the Museum of Byzantine Culture<br />
(2 Stratou Avenue; mbp.gr) and the Archaeological<br />
Museum (6 Manoli Andronikou Street; amth.gr).<br />
Along the paved esplanade that runs for several<br />
kilometres round the massive bay, there are two<br />
particular sights. Halfway along there’s a huge statue<br />
of Alexander the Great on a rearing horse. Impressive,<br />
powerful and solid, it’s a glimpse of the ancient world.<br />
A little further along is its antithesis, by 20th-century<br />
sculptor George Zongolopoulos and perhaps the most<br />
magical sculpture I have ever seen: dozens of metal<br />
umbrella skeletons dance like kites, 12m up. Both<br />
sculptures seem equally emblematic of this enthralling<br />
city on the sea.<br />
Now I realise how similar my initial response to<br />
Thessaloniki was with other fi rst encounters. Quite<br />
often, people I have disliked on fi rst meeting have<br />
turned into my best friends. It was just like this<br />
with Thessaloniki. In short, it has become one of my<br />
favourite cities in the world.<br />
Victoria Hislop’s novel The Thread is published by<br />
Headline in hardback at £18.99 and is out now<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
FEATURE | THESSALONIKI<br />
Thessaloniki from six destinations. See our insider<br />
guide on page 176. Book online at easyJet.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 59
FEATURES | THESSALONIKI<br />
THESSALONIKI BASICS<br />
THE CITY BY NUMBERS HAVE A WORD (OR TWO)<br />
790,824<br />
THE CITY’S POPULATION<br />
111.7km 2<br />
THE SURFACE AREA<br />
OF THE CITY<br />
11<br />
THE AVERAGE TEMPERATURE<br />
IN CELSIUS IN NOVEMBER<br />
250m<br />
HIGHEST POINT OF THE CITY<br />
ABOVE SEA LEVEL<br />
16,000,000<br />
ANNUAL CAPACITY OF THE<br />
PORT IN TONNES<br />
27m<br />
HEIGHT OF THE ICONIC<br />
WHITE TOWER<br />
7<br />
PERCENTAGE OF GREEK<br />
CITIZENS WHO LIVE IN<br />
THESSALONIKI<br />
60 | TRAVELLER<br />
THE THESSALONIKI TIMELINE<br />
315BC<br />
The city is founded<br />
by King Cassander<br />
of Macedon and<br />
named after his<br />
wife, Thessalonike,<br />
Alexander the Great’s<br />
half-sister<br />
168BC<br />
Thessaloniki becomes<br />
capital of the new<br />
Roman province of<br />
Macedonia, following<br />
the fall of the Kingdom<br />
of Macedon, and is<br />
known as Salonica<br />
Despite increasing immigration, Thessaloniki is still a fairly homogeneously<br />
Greek-speaking city. Although English is widely spoken, a few words uttered in the<br />
local language are always appreciated.<br />
HELLO AND GOODBYE (LITERALLY “YOUR HEALTH”)<br />
YIASOU (“YA-SOO”)<br />
PLEASE<br />
PARAKALO (“PA-RAH-KA-LO”)<br />
THANK YOU<br />
EFHARISTO (“EF-HA-RIS-TO”)<br />
GOOD MORNING<br />
KALIMERA (“KA-LEE-MEH-RA”)<br />
HAVE A GOOD MEAL<br />
KALI OREXI (“KA-LEE OR-EX-EE”)<br />
HOW’S IT GOING? (LITERALLY “WHAT’S HAPPENING?”)<br />
TI YINETAI (“TI-YIN-EH-TEH”)<br />
WHERE IS …?<br />
POU EINAI (“POO EEN-EH”)<br />
56AD<br />
On his second visit to<br />
the city, St Paul founds<br />
a church to whose<br />
early members he<br />
subsequently writes<br />
his two Epistles to the<br />
Thessalonians<br />
298<br />
Roman Emperor<br />
Galerius commissions<br />
a triumphal arch<br />
to commemorate<br />
his victory over the<br />
Persians. It still stands<br />
on the Via Egnatia<br />
1204<br />
During the Fourth<br />
Crusade, the city briefl y<br />
becomes the capital<br />
of the Latin Empire<br />
of Salonica, before<br />
being restored to the<br />
Byzantine Empire
WORDS BY NICK EDWARDS | PHOTO © CORBIS | MAP ILLUSTRATION © JASON PICKERSGILL/ ACUTEGRAPHICS.CO.UK<br />
GETTING<br />
AROUND<br />
You can walk around most of the<br />
interesting areas of Thessaloniki,<br />
though there is a good bus network,<br />
and taxis are plentiful and inexpensive.<br />
THE SEAFRONT<br />
Thessalonians love to take an evening<br />
volta (stroll) along their promenade,<br />
and the cafés between the port and<br />
the White Tower are always packed.<br />
LADADIKA<br />
The small maze of streets around<br />
the old port has become the city’s<br />
trendiest nightlife district, with many<br />
tavernas, ouzeris (cafés) and bars.<br />
Some of the old warehouses have<br />
been converted into nightclubs.<br />
N<br />
1430<br />
The city falls to the<br />
Turks, who call it<br />
Selanik. In the following<br />
centuries, it becomes<br />
one of the most<br />
cosmopolitan cities in<br />
the Ottoman Empire<br />
EGNATIA<br />
LADADIKA<br />
THE SEAFRONT<br />
1912<br />
Thessaloniki becomes<br />
part of modern Greece<br />
when the Turkish<br />
army surrenders on<br />
26 October, the feast<br />
day of the city’s patron<br />
saint, Saint Demetrios<br />
ANO POLI<br />
The name means “upper city” and<br />
it’s an apt description, being a steep<br />
climb from the city centre. Within the<br />
14th-century Byzantine ramparts are<br />
Ottoman dwellings, restaurants and<br />
cafés, many with amazing views.<br />
EGNATIA<br />
A stretch of the Roman Via Egnatia<br />
forms one of the city’s main streets.<br />
The Forum, the Arch of Galerius and<br />
the beautiful Rotonda, plus many<br />
Byzantine churches, lie on or just off it.<br />
MODIANO<br />
This area takes its name from the<br />
covered market, with its colourful<br />
stalls of fi sh, meat, fruit, vegetables<br />
and spices. There are plenty of nearby<br />
ouzeri for mezedes (small plates of<br />
food) and a fl ower market beside the<br />
old Turkish hamam.<br />
MODIANO<br />
ANO POLI<br />
THESSALONIKI<br />
1917<br />
Most of the old<br />
city, including the<br />
warren-like Ottoman<br />
and Jewish areas, is<br />
destroyed in a fi re that<br />
leaves over 70,000<br />
people homeless<br />
200m<br />
1943<br />
After a two-year<br />
occupation, the Nazis<br />
start sending the<br />
city’s 60,000 Jews to<br />
concentration camps<br />
– barely a thousand<br />
remained after the war<br />
FEATURES | THESSALONIKI<br />
FOOTBALL CRAZY<br />
Just a game? Don’t say that to<br />
the inhabitants of this city, for<br />
whom football is more a religion.<br />
Most of the glory goes to Athenian<br />
teams, but locals would doubtless<br />
insist that fans of the three big<br />
Thessaloniki clubs – Iraklis, Aris<br />
and PAOK – are more passionate.<br />
Iraklis formed in 1908 and play<br />
at Kaftanzoglio Stadium. This<br />
season they have been demoted<br />
to the second division for only the<br />
second time in their history.<br />
Aris play at Kleanthis Vikelidis<br />
Stadium and have been crowned<br />
Greek champions three times,<br />
though not since 1946.<br />
PAOK are by far the biggest<br />
club, with fanatical support<br />
across northern Greece. Formed<br />
in 1926 by Greek refugees from<br />
Asia Minor – the K in the name<br />
stands for Konstantinoupolitón<br />
(Constantinople) – the team’s<br />
black and white colours are<br />
ubiquitous. They’ve been Greek<br />
Champions twice and Cup<br />
winners four times, most recently<br />
in 2003, and their Toumba<br />
Stadium is a bastion of fanaticism.<br />
1997<br />
After decades of<br />
recovery from post-war<br />
gloom, Thessaloniki<br />
becomes European<br />
Capital of Culture,<br />
sealing its place as a<br />
thriving, modern city<br />
TRAVELLER | 61
62 | TRAVELLER<br />
FEATURES | XMAS SHOPPING<br />
MERRY<br />
CHRISTMAS<br />
From around the network<br />
LOOKING FOR FESTIVE INSPIRATION? WE’VE SCOURED<br />
OUR DESTINATIONS FOR AN A-Z OF PRESENT IDEAS<br />
A<br />
IS FOR AMBER<br />
PENDANT, AROUND €108<br />
FROM TALLINN<br />
Amber washes up on the<br />
shores of the Baltic Sea, B<br />
IS FOR BAKEL<br />
COOL EYES, €95<br />
FROM CATANIA<br />
Trendy Italian cosmetics<br />
brand Bakel makes luxurious C<br />
IS FOR CARDBOARD<br />
STOOL, €16.90<br />
FROM DUSSELDORF<br />
This funky stool was created<br />
by Keppler & Fremer at the<br />
which is why you’ll fi nd so much of it in treats that busy mums will appreciate. Remember design company. These seats,<br />
the jewellery that’s for sale at the stalls This regenerating eye cream is a favourite which are designed to look like everyday<br />
and shops in Tallinn. Head to the Town for its instant cooling and tightening objects, pack away easily, making them<br />
Hall Square market or, for handmade, eff ects, with ingredients that target dark a great present for those in need of space-<br />
unique pieces, visit the website below. circles and under-eye bags. As an added saving seating solutions.<br />
Merevaik ja Hõbesuveniirid, 10 Raekoja bonus, there are no perfumes or alcohol. Keppler & Fremer GmbH, 27-29<br />
plats, Tallinn, Estonia;<br />
Farmacia Croceverde, 43 Via D’Annunzio, Weggenhofstraße, Krefeld, Germany;<br />
corazonlatino.com/amber.asp<br />
Catania, Sicily, Italy; bakel.it<br />
remember.de<br />
COMPILED BY ANNA SMITH AND CAROLINE MCLAREN
D<br />
IS FOR DUVEL<br />
BEER GLASSES, €8 EACH<br />
FROM BRUSSELS<br />
Belgium is well known for<br />
its beers, including those<br />
brewed since 1871 by pale-ale specialists<br />
Duvel. Now the company has produced<br />
these limited-edition glasses by artists<br />
across the country. A great present for<br />
anyone who loves a swift thirst-quencher.<br />
Duvel, 66 Breendonkdorp, Puurs, Belgium;<br />
duvel.be<br />
G<br />
IS FOR GREEK<br />
IS F<br />
BOUZOUKI<br />
INSTRUMENT, FROM €190<br />
FROM ATHENS<br />
Live music in Greece would<br />
be nothing without the sound of the<br />
bouzouki. Its pear-shaped body produces<br />
a sweet sound similar to a mandolin.<br />
These handmade instruments are the<br />
real thing and make a decorative, melodic<br />
gift for music lovers.<br />
Mousika Organa, 36 Ifestou, Monastiraki,<br />
Athens, Greece, tel: +30 (0)210 321 2433<br />
E IS<br />
FOR EXTRA VIRGIN<br />
OLIVE OIL, €46<br />
FROM MILAN<br />
Armando Manni’s organic<br />
Per Me olive oil is made from<br />
a rare Tuscan olive and the fl avour will<br />
delight foodies. Drizzle over fi sh or pasta,<br />
or muddle with balsamic vinegar for a<br />
delicious dip. It’s only made in small<br />
quantities, so there are limited outlets.<br />
Eats, 3 Galleria del Corso, Milan, Italy;<br />
manni.biz<br />
H<br />
IS FOR HAMPER<br />
CELEBRATION HAMPER,<br />
£80 (APPROX €91)<br />
FROM ISLE OF MAN<br />
Packed full of the fi nest<br />
produce from local, family-run<br />
businesses, this is a true Isle of Man<br />
experience. Treat someone special to<br />
special cheese, honey, tea, handmade<br />
truffl es, the famous local kippers and the<br />
(infamous!) Manx Knobs boiled sweets.<br />
Available online only,<br />
isleofmanhampers.com<br />
FEATURES | XMAS SHOPPING<br />
F<br />
IS FOR FIG<br />
BOMBONS, €6.45 (£9.90)<br />
FROM MURCIA<br />
Filled with a truffl e liquor<br />
cream mousse and dipped in<br />
dark chocolate, Rabitos Royale are no<br />
ordinary fi gs. Creators Raquel and<br />
Señador Valero transform the fruit grown<br />
in the orchards of Murcia, southern Spain,<br />
into a pure taste indulgence.<br />
El Corte Ingles, 1 Avenida de la Libertad,<br />
Murcia; delimann.co.uk<br />
I<br />
IS FOR INNIS & GUNN<br />
HIGHLAND CASK BEER, £2.50<br />
FROM EDINBURGH<br />
This award-winning Scottish brewer,<br />
launched in 2003, has taken the<br />
real-ale world by storm. This particular<br />
limited edition is matured in oak barrels<br />
previously used to mature 18-year-old<br />
single malt Scotch whisky, which<br />
produces a smooth, complex beer.<br />
The Innis & Gunn Brewing Company,<br />
6 Randolph Crescent, Edinburgh,<br />
Scotland; innisandgunn.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 63
FEATURES | XMAS SHOPPING<br />
J<br />
IS FOR JUMPER<br />
TRADITIONAL KNIT, €280<br />
FROM COPENHAGEN<br />
Make like The Killing’s Sarah Lund<br />
with this hand-knitted sweater<br />
from the Faroe Islands. The colour range<br />
of the organic alpaca wool is limited to the<br />
natural shades of the animals. Each one<br />
is made to order and comes with the<br />
name of the knitter.<br />
Sabine Poupimel & Co, 34 Pilestræde;<br />
gudrungudrun.com<br />
M<br />
IS FOR MARSEILLE<br />
SOAP BY COMPAGNIE<br />
DE PROVENCE, €5.90<br />
FROM MARSEILLE<br />
Founded 20 years ago, N<br />
IS FOR NATURAL<br />
GIFT SET BY TOUS, €67<br />
FROM BARCELONA<br />
Make a change from<br />
the usual smellies with this<br />
Compagnie de Provence captures the joie<br />
de vivre of France’s oldest city, where the<br />
thought-provoking gift. The Tous H O gift<br />
2<br />
set contains fragrance inspired by<br />
fi rst French soap was produced. Its jewellery, while the soap contains leaf<br />
versions are made in the traditional block juices and aloe vera to help moisturise<br />
shape and scents include fi g, grapefruit skin, and lavender to aid relaxation.<br />
and wild cherry.<br />
A portion of the proceeds goes to Oxfam.<br />
Boutique Marseille, 18 rue Francis Davso; Tous, 18 Passeig de Gràcia, Barcelona,<br />
compagniedeprovence.com<br />
Spain; tous.com<br />
64 | TRAVELLER<br />
K IS<br />
FOR KASTENHELMI<br />
SERVING PLATE, £36<br />
(APPROX €41)<br />
FROM LEEDS BRADFORD<br />
Designer Oiva Toikka,<br />
whose timeless designs are informed by<br />
everyday life, took inspiration from water<br />
droplets for his Kastenhelmi collection<br />
– the name means “dewdrops” in Finnish.<br />
David Mellor Country Shop, The Round<br />
Building, Hathersage, Sheffi eld, England;<br />
davidmellordesign.com<br />
L<br />
IS FOR LEATHER<br />
TAN iPAD CASE, £195 (€225)<br />
FROM BIRMINGHAM<br />
Surely the ultimate iPad<br />
accessory for discerning<br />
travellers, this smart case is designed and<br />
made in England from premium-quality<br />
bridle leather. The smart buckle-andstrap<br />
detail is pretty as well as protective.<br />
Daines & Hathaway, Daines House,<br />
Bridgeman Street, Walsall;<br />
dainesandhathaway.com<br />
O<br />
IS FOR OPTIK<br />
BINOCULARS BY<br />
SWAROVSKI, €1,780<br />
FROM INNSBRUCK<br />
The world’s largest<br />
Swarovski shop, in the heart of<br />
Innsbruck’s Old Town, has the best<br />
selection of jewellery, fi gurines and optics<br />
by the leading cut-crystal producer. These<br />
sleek binoculars make a special present<br />
for keen walkers or bird watchers.<br />
Swarovski Innsbruck, 39 Herzog-Friedrich-<br />
Straße; innsbruck.swarovski.com
P Q<br />
IS FOR PLAY<br />
IS<br />
RUG, FROM TL 309.97<br />
(FROM £110)<br />
FROM ISTANBUL<br />
Turkey is famous for carpets,<br />
but these multi-level play rugs are like no<br />
other. Made in Istanbul by local<br />
craftsmen, the clever designs brighten<br />
bedrooms and provide the base for<br />
imaginative small-world play.<br />
Joker Maxi Toys, 65 Cayir Caddesi, Istinye,<br />
Sariyer, Istanbul, Turkey; ganderkids.co.uk<br />
S T<br />
IS FOR SERGEANT<br />
IS<br />
PEPPER MILL, £12.99<br />
(APPROX €15)<br />
FROM LIVERPOOL<br />
A little military help for the<br />
daily grind! The Beatles put Liverpool on<br />
the map, so why not take away a souvenir<br />
that will give the recipient a smile and is<br />
also a handy utensil? Plus, it doubles as a<br />
microphone for Beatles sing-alongs.<br />
Paperchase, The Met Quarter,<br />
43 Whitechapel, Liverpool, England;<br />
lakeland.co.uk<br />
FOR QUEEN<br />
DIAMOND JUBILEE<br />
CHESS SET, £200<br />
(APPROX €230)<br />
FROM LONDON<br />
This handcrafted chess set has been<br />
designed by Anne Carlton to<br />
commemorate the Queen’s Diamond<br />
Jubilee in 2012. Ma’am and her family are<br />
immortalised alongside choirboy pawns.<br />
Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road,<br />
Knightsbridge; sac-games.com<br />
FOR TAGINE<br />
COOKWARE, £55<br />
FROM AGADIR<br />
Spread the taste of Morocco<br />
by giving a terracotta serving<br />
pot, which is most commonly used for the<br />
national dish of the same name. The<br />
beautiful market square in Agadir is a<br />
great opportunity to buy an authentic one<br />
from a stall – or try this designer version.<br />
Le Medina d’Agadir Coco Polizzi, BP 230<br />
Bensergao, Agadir, Morocco;<br />
blisshome.co.uk<br />
FEATURES | XMAS SHOPPING<br />
R<br />
IS FOR RETRO<br />
CLASSIC CAR, €159<br />
FROM CORSICA<br />
Three to fi ve year olds can<br />
pretend to be the star of the<br />
famous Corsica classic-car rally with their<br />
own 1933-inspired model car. Crafted<br />
from metalwork by French company<br />
Baghera, each vintage car takes many<br />
hours to make and is built to last.<br />
Joué Club Ajaccio, 25 Rue Fresch, Ajaccio,<br />
Corsica; baghera.fr<br />
U<br />
IS FOR UNDERWEAR<br />
HALF CUP BRA, £75 (€87)<br />
FROM PARIS<br />
In 1948, corset maker<br />
Simone Pérèle began plying<br />
her trade from a dimly lit workshop near<br />
the Paris Opera House. Now her<br />
seductive underwear is world famous,<br />
totally stunning and worn by discerning<br />
women everywhere.<br />
La Pince a Linge, 13 Avenue Saint Jean,<br />
Le Touquet, Paris Plage, France;<br />
simone-perele.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 65
FEATURES | XMAS SHOPPING<br />
V W<br />
IS FOR VODKA<br />
IS<br />
MIODULA PRESIDENTIAL<br />
LIQUEUR, PLN 160 (€23.95)<br />
FROM KRAKOW<br />
This vodka-based liqueur<br />
uses an age-old recipe fl avoured with<br />
honey from southern Poland. Just 4,000<br />
bottles are made each year, with 500<br />
going to the Polish president to use as<br />
diplomatic gifts.<br />
Restauracja Wierzynek Delikatesy, 15<br />
Rynek Głowny; thewhiskyexchange.com<br />
Y Z<br />
IS FOR YAVA<br />
IS<br />
VASE, FROM £50<br />
(APPROX €58)<br />
FROM VENICE<br />
Italy is renowned for chic<br />
furniture design and Natuzzi has been<br />
setting standards for more than 50 years.<br />
This Yava vase in smoky grey has been<br />
hand blown in the famous forges of<br />
Venice – perfect for a design affi cianado.<br />
Natuzzi, 1 Via Salomonio, Centro<br />
Commerciale, Le Panorama, Marghera;<br />
natuzzi.co.uk<br />
66 | TRAVELLER<br />
FOR WALLET<br />
DOCUMENT<br />
HOLDER, €255<br />
FROM ROME<br />
Francesco Pineider<br />
opened his fi rst shop in 1774 and for<br />
centuries was the stationer of choice<br />
for authors, artists and the aristocracy.<br />
Made from the fi nest leather, this<br />
document wallet continues the tradition.<br />
Francesco Pineider, 8 Via dei Due Macelli,<br />
Rome, Italy; pineider.com<br />
FOR ZÜRICH<br />
CLOCK-TOWER REPLICA,<br />
€250<br />
FROM ZÜRICH<br />
For the past 60 years, visitors<br />
to Zürich’s railway station have been<br />
fortunate to check the time on a bona fi de<br />
design classic. Now replicated for the<br />
home, the Mondaine clock is as<br />
distinctive a slice of Swiss timekeeping as<br />
you’ll fi nd on any kitchen wall.<br />
Schweizer Heimatwerk, 1 Uraniastrasse,<br />
Zürich, Switzerland; mondaine.com<br />
X<br />
IS FOR XXS<br />
OR XXS<br />
LEATHER THER MOBILE HARD<br />
DRIVE, VE, €109.95 €109.95<br />
FROM OM BERLIN<br />
Created ated in the heart of<br />
Berlin’s business ss district by German<br />
innovators Freecom, ecom, this discreet and<br />
compact XXS 500GB hard drive uses the<br />
latest USB 3.0 0 technology to back up<br />
faster than ever. ver. Ideal for any tech geek.<br />
Conrad Electronic, tronic, 14-15 Hasenheide,<br />
Berlin; shop.freecom.com<br />
p.freecom.com
AND 18% VAT REFUND<br />
Request your discount at<br />
our Customer Service<br />
Department (SAC).<br />
* Only valid for foreign non resident tourists.<br />
* Must register and present valid passport or identification card with photograph.<br />
* VAT refund for non EU member countries.<br />
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DEPARTMENT STORES - GRANDES ALMACENES<br />
Y ADEMÁS, 18% DE<br />
DEVOLUCIÓN DEL I.V.A.<br />
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FEATURES | GENEVA<br />
WHEN<br />
SCIENCE<br />
PHOTO © CERN<br />
68 | TRAVELLER
FEATURES | GENEVA<br />
& ART<br />
COLLIDE<br />
AND IT’S NOT JUST SCIENCE. THE HOME OF THE LARGE HADRON<br />
CHRIS BEANLAND<br />
STRANGE THINGS ARE AFOOT AT THE CERN LABORATORY IN GENEVA<br />
COLLIDER (LHC) HAS BEEN INSPIRING EXPERIMENTAL CULTURE TOO...<br />
TRAVELLER | 69
FEATURES | GENEVA<br />
A ballet troupe uses<br />
an image of the<br />
collision from the<br />
DELPHI particle<br />
detector to inform<br />
their dance<br />
SOMETHING UNIQUE IS HAPPENING at a laboratory<br />
on the outskirts of Geneva. It’s not the usual stories<br />
you hear in relation to CERN – about the search for<br />
antimatter, the invention of the World Wide Web<br />
by Tim Berners-Lee or the recent news of particles<br />
travelling faster than the speed of light – it’s about the<br />
unlikely relationship that is blossoming there between<br />
art and science. Amid the dials and the quarks and<br />
the quantum physics, for much of the past decade, this<br />
most international of labs has been inviting all manner<br />
of creative types to exhibit and perform work there.<br />
Rap acts, jazz bands and even a small symphony<br />
orchestra have appeared. But that’s not all. In 2005,<br />
Lombardy artist Gianni Motti walked the 27km of<br />
the infamous LHC tunnel as a performance piece,<br />
accompanied by physicist Jean-Pierre Merlo. Last<br />
year, American artist Josef Kristofoletti painted a<br />
pop-art mural on the side of the building, depicting<br />
the collider, and back in March, choreographer Gilles<br />
Jobin premiered a contemporary dance piece based on<br />
the Large Hadron Collider (LHC), Spider Galaxies.<br />
70 | TRAVELLER<br />
American artist Josef<br />
Kristofoletti painted this<br />
mural on the side of the<br />
building, which houses<br />
the Large Hadron<br />
Collider at CERN<br />
“Science provides understanding,<br />
Its soundtrack was made up of noises generated by<br />
synthesising the data collected from the collider.<br />
The latest venture between the laboratory and the<br />
art world is taking this relationship to an even higher<br />
level. Collide@CERN is a residential arts programme<br />
that pairs artists with scientist mentors. A diverse<br />
platform of cultural ambassadors, including sculptor<br />
Antony Gormley, artist Mariko Mori, photographer<br />
Andreas Gursky and the musician Brian Eno – all of<br />
whom have been inspired by the facility – have been<br />
appointed patrons of the project and tasked with<br />
creating art for the lab.<br />
Anyone can visit CERN for a tour and see temporary<br />
exhibitions (cern.ch). The current one, curated by<br />
comic-book artist Fiami, uses graphic art to depict the<br />
history of women in science runs until 20 December.<br />
“What I am trying to do at CERN is to<br />
create artistic engagement that is not driven by<br />
communicating the science but, rather, driven by<br />
the inspiration of the ideas which science offers to<br />
the imagination of artists,” says Ariane Koek,
art provides meaning”<br />
PHOTOS © CERN;JOSEF KRISTOFOLETTI; PATRICK HUGHES, COURTESY FLOWERS, LONDON<br />
A piece inspired<br />
by the ATLAS<br />
particle detector<br />
FEATURES | GENEVA<br />
Nature and Culture, by<br />
British artist Patrick<br />
Hughes, is based on the<br />
CERN control rooms<br />
TRAVELLER | 71
Installing the Antony<br />
Gormley sculpture<br />
donated by the artist<br />
“Physics triggered great artistic movements”<br />
international arts development director at CERN and<br />
the person responsible for much of this activity.<br />
“This doesn’t just respect the differences between<br />
science and the arts. Really great artistic work can<br />
emerge: work that breaks boundaries and inspires us –<br />
as well as opening new doors for scientifi c thinking.”<br />
Despite some early teething problems, CERN’s<br />
most famous piece of lab equipment, the LHC, is<br />
now going great guns. Yet the ultimate search for the<br />
Higgs Boson – the rare subatomic particle it was built<br />
to look for – may not be so fruitful. CERN scientists,<br />
presenting a report in India in August, speculated<br />
that they will have either found the Higgs Boson by<br />
the end of this year or else will have confi rmed that<br />
it doesn’t exist in the form it was previously thought.<br />
Whether or not the discovery is forthcoming, the giant,<br />
subterranean tube has certainly piqued an artistic<br />
interest that shows no sign of waning.<br />
“Physics triggered some of the great artistic<br />
movements of the 20th century – take Einstein’s<br />
theories, which gave birth to modernism,” points out<br />
Koek. “Who knows? Perhaps this will be the start of a<br />
new creative revolution.”<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
Geneva from 50 destinations. See our insider<br />
guide on page 136. Book online at easyJet.com<br />
72 | TRAVELLER<br />
A scene from the play<br />
Oracle at Delphi,<br />
performed by the<br />
Miméscope theatre<br />
group at CERN<br />
PHOTOS © CERN
Edenarc<br />
1800
FEATURES | CINECITTÀ<br />
74 | TRAVELLER
HOLLYWOOD<br />
ON THE TIBER<br />
Off -camera on the<br />
legendary Ben-Hur<br />
(1959), which fi lmed<br />
for three months at<br />
Rome’s Cinecittà<br />
studio using 15,000<br />
extras and the<br />
largest set ever built<br />
BEN-HUR, LA DOLCE VITA,<br />
CLEOPATRA... ALL WERE FILMED AT<br />
ROME’S LEGENDARY CINECITTÀ<br />
STUDIO. AS IT OPENS ITS DOORS TO<br />
THE PUBLIC, WE TELL THE STORY<br />
NICK BRUNO<br />
THERE’S A SCENE in his 1987 fi lm Intervista, where<br />
Federico Fellini is describing to a Japanese fi lm crew<br />
a dream-sequence scene he is about to shoot. “I found<br />
myself in a dark place,” says the renowned Italian<br />
director, “unsettling, but at the same time familiar,<br />
with never-ending walls.” Perched on high, he watches<br />
as lights fi re up across the landscape in front of him,<br />
wisps of dry ice and wind sound effects accompany<br />
an aerial view of ochre buildings and pine trees that<br />
spread out. “Is the territory below a prison, university<br />
campus or nuclear bunker?” asks Fellini, before<br />
answering his own question. “It’s Cinecittà.”<br />
Pronounced chee-nay chee-TAH, which translates<br />
as “cinema city”, the subject of Fellini’s fi lm is a<br />
sprawling 40 hectare (99 acre), 22-studio complex,<br />
located 9km south-east of Rome. Since it opened<br />
in 1937, it has established itself as Europe’s largest,<br />
most iconic fi lm studio – a place that has inspired<br />
cinema legends, from the 1950s neo-realists to today’s<br />
Hollywood greats, including Martin Scorsese and<br />
Woody Allen; and where over 3,000 fi lms have been<br />
shot, 48 of which have won Oscars.<br />
This month, fi lm fans are in for a rare treat. To mark<br />
the 74th anniversary, the studio is opening its doors<br />
to the public with a host of exhibitions and shows.<br />
Until 30 November, visitors on the Cinecittà Si Mostra<br />
tour can move amid epic sets and diva’s wardrobes,<br />
and wander between 1930s pastel villas, cavernous<br />
soundstages and atmospheric sets – including a<br />
fi breglass Broadway and an Ancient Rome.<br />
People talk about the golden age of Italian cinema<br />
in the 1950s and 1960s, when fi lms such as Fellini’s<br />
TRAVELLER | 75
FEATURES | CINECITTÀ<br />
La Dolce Vita won world acclaim, cementing Rome’s<br />
status as a buzzing city full of beautiful people. The<br />
studio was at the centre of this movement, but it<br />
wasn’t only Europe’s fi nest directors and actors who<br />
fl ocked to the hallowed gates on Via Tuscolana.<br />
Cinecittà also attracted American fi lm makers, which<br />
is why it became known as<br />
“Hollywood on the Tiber”.<br />
Audrey Hepburn and<br />
Gregory Peck whizzed<br />
around the city in Roman<br />
Holiday (1953), hanging<br />
out with Sophia Loren and<br />
Errol Flynn. William<br />
Wyler shot MGM’s Ben-<br />
Hur there in 1957, with a<br />
then record-breaking $7m<br />
budget: shooting Charlton<br />
Heston’s Circus Maximus<br />
chariot race took over fi ve<br />
weeks and involved 15,000<br />
extras. Cleopatra (1963) was<br />
a money-haemorrhaging,<br />
30-month saga (budgeted:<br />
$2m; actual: $44m) that<br />
spawned Richard Burton<br />
and Elizabeth Taylor’s boozy<br />
love affair.<br />
It’s all a far cry from<br />
the origins of the studio.<br />
In the 1930s, Italian futurist artists were embracing<br />
the new dynamic medium of cinema and then prime<br />
minister, Benito Mussolini, recognised it could be a<br />
powerful ideological weapon. So, in 1936, he decided<br />
to build a studio. The new Cinema City had everything<br />
for fi lm making – theatre studios, technicians,<br />
artists, a cinematography school – and, headed up by<br />
politician Luigi Freddi, the complex began to churn<br />
out propaganda fi lms at a rapid rate. This went on for<br />
several years until, in September 1943, as World War<br />
II approached its peak, the studio was closed after<br />
Allied bombing reduced it to near ruins. By then, some<br />
300 Fascist fi lms and historical dramas had been shot.<br />
But this wasn’t the end – in fact, in many ways,<br />
it marked a new beginning for Cinecittà. In the<br />
aftermath of the war, and with no studio to shoot in,<br />
a new wave of Italian directors hit the streets instead.<br />
This inspired the neo-realist movement, where fi lm<br />
makers such as Roberto Rossellini and Luchino<br />
Visconti shot documentary-style fi lms depicting the<br />
harsh reality of post-war Italy. The success of these<br />
fi lms helped sow the seeds for a new fi lm industry;<br />
and when, in the 1950s, the studio was rebuilt, Fellini<br />
and a number of other directors were on hand to take<br />
advantage, ushering in what become known as the<br />
golden age of Italian cinema.<br />
It was during this time that Franco Mariotti would<br />
regularly cross Rome to visit the studio, for a chance<br />
76 | TRAVELLER<br />
to catch a glimpse of a fi lm being shot – or even gain a<br />
small role. Today he is Cinecittà’s cultural ambassador,<br />
but back then he was one of many people drawn by<br />
the allure of the studio. Cinema was a potent escape<br />
from the harsh post-war realities for the people of<br />
Italy, and while Fellini was fi lming the Oscar-winning<br />
La Strada in 1954, Mariotti got a bit part in Carmine<br />
Gallone’s Casa Ricordi.<br />
In between his ceremonial duties at the recent<br />
Venice Film Festival, we caught up with Mariotti, who<br />
recalls Fellini’s spiritoso (witty) side and an obsession<br />
with hair loss. “‘Mariottino,’ he would say (Fellini loved<br />
the diminutive), ‘when did you lose your hair and how<br />
did it happen?’” Mariotti also waxes warmly about
PHOTO © SCALA ARCHIVE, ALAMY, MIRAMAX, CINECITTA/CRISTALDI FILM, MOMENTUM, FC PRODUZIOI, WARNER<br />
“I said it wasn’t possible.<br />
Not even Fellini would have<br />
asked such a thing”<br />
Fellini’s impact. “He went around observing humanity,<br />
then painted pictures on the screen, inventions so vivid<br />
they became reality.”<br />
Indeed, Fellini relished the on-set circus. In Damian<br />
Pettigrew’s illuminating documentary Fellini: I’m a<br />
Born Liar (2002), Donald Sutherland describes the<br />
director on the set of Fellini’s Casanova (1976) as<br />
“a martinet, dictator, Tartar, demon… tormenting<br />
everyone. The fi rst fi ve weeks of shooting were hell on<br />
earth. He was the medium and I was the mannequin.”<br />
Behind-the-scenes footage shows Fellini’s<br />
hands-on approach and brusqueness. He would shout<br />
instructions hysterically and manhandle the actors<br />
and extras. Fellini said, “Puppets are happy to be<br />
puppets, if the puppet has a good puppeteer.”<br />
Today, Fellini’s presence is everywhere on the<br />
Si Mostra tour. There’s Venusia’s colossal crowned<br />
head – seen emerging menacingly from the Venetian<br />
lagoon in Casanova – plonked by the pavillion<br />
Palazzina Presidenziale. Inside are more surreal<br />
props and sculptures, made by members of the De<br />
Angelis family, who have been working here for 70<br />
years. Historic costumes in nearby Palazzina Fellini<br />
Clockwise from top,<br />
Elizabeth Taylor<br />
performs a scene in<br />
Cleopatra;<br />
Leonardo DiCaprio<br />
and Martin<br />
Scorsese during the<br />
fi lming of Gangs of<br />
New York at<br />
Cinecittà; on the set<br />
of Ben-Hur with,<br />
from left, Charlton<br />
Heston, Jack<br />
Hawkins and<br />
director William<br />
Wyler in 1957<br />
FEATURES | CINECITTÀ<br />
FIVE MUST-SEE<br />
CINECITTÀ<br />
CLASSICS<br />
Unfamiliar with the work of<br />
this studio? Start with these...<br />
I SOLITI IGNOTI<br />
1958<br />
Mario Monicelli’s<br />
stylish masterpiece<br />
heralded an era of<br />
Italian comedies. Persons Unknown –<br />
starring Vittorio Gassman and Marcello<br />
Mastroianni (and introducing the gorgeous<br />
Claudia Cardinale) – follows petty criminals’<br />
bungled attempts to plunder a pawn shop.<br />
LA DOLCE VITA<br />
1960<br />
Fellini’s celebration<br />
and critique of cinema<br />
and consumerism<br />
introduced a celebrity snapper called<br />
Paparazzo. Ennui and immorality had never<br />
looked cooler, from the opening sequence’s<br />
fl ying statue of Jesus to Ekberg and<br />
Mastroianni’s Trevi fountain frolicking.<br />
AMARCORD 1973<br />
Meaning “I remember”<br />
in Romagnolo<br />
dialect, Amarcord is a<br />
semi-autobiographical<br />
tale featuring events from Fellini’s own<br />
fumbling adolescence in 1930s Rimini, set<br />
to a wistful Nino Rota soundtrack.<br />
ONCE UPON A TIME<br />
IN AMERICA 1984<br />
Spaghetti Western<br />
director Sergio Leone<br />
– who also shot Once<br />
Upon a Time in the West at Cinecittà –<br />
teamed up with prolifi c composer Ennio<br />
Morricone for this epic gangster movie<br />
starring Robert De Niro and James Woods.<br />
IL POSTINO 1994<br />
Neapolitan comic<br />
genius Massimo<br />
Troisi plays the iconic<br />
island postman. Troisi<br />
postponed heart surgery to fi nish Michael<br />
Radford’s poignant opus and died the day<br />
after the Cinecittà wrap.<br />
TRAVELLER | 77
FEATURE | CINECITTÀ<br />
include Sutherland’s dandy Casanova garb and Anita<br />
Ekberg’s La Dolce Vita dress. Nino Rota’s emotive<br />
soundtracks, which captured Fellini-esque magic<br />
and nostalgia, chime around every corner. Fellini’s<br />
reconstructed offi ce from Teatro 5 – the legendary<br />
2,787m 2 soundstage that was most favoured by the<br />
director – has his hat, scarf and coloured pens.<br />
For production director Maurizio Sperandini,<br />
the artisan ingenuity at Cinecittà lives on through<br />
today’s impressive sets. “Life at Cinecittà is always<br />
frenetic,” he says. “There are sometimes four sets<br />
being built simultaneously by a group of 50 fulltimers<br />
plus temps. For the Rome TV set we had 200<br />
workers, including carpenters, painters, scaffolders<br />
and painters.” Building a 19th-century Broadway<br />
for Scorsese’s Gangs of New York was “the most<br />
challenging”, but one of Sperandini’s career highlights<br />
came on the set of The Life Aquatic (2004), when the<br />
director, Wes Anderson, asked him to demolish the<br />
wall of Teatro 5 so his new lens, shipped from LA,<br />
could fi lm the entire cross-section of a 50m-long ship.<br />
“I said it wasn’t possible. Not even Fellini would<br />
have asked such a thing. There was panic. I proposed<br />
that we move the ship back fi ve metres, but it seemed<br />
impossible without dismantling it – lights, fi ttings…”<br />
Then, using a special system of hydraulic pistons<br />
usually employed for raising bridges, Sperandini’s crew<br />
78 | TRAVELLER<br />
shifted the ship 10cm at a time. “In less than 48 hours,<br />
we managed to move it fi ve metres. Wes Anderson and<br />
the American producers were amazed.”<br />
Of course, these days times are tough, even in the<br />
multimillion-dollar fi lm industry. However, Cinecittà<br />
hopes tax breaks will woo more international fi lm<br />
makers back – Woody Allen and Bertolucci have<br />
both just shot fi lms here. In the meantime, the studio<br />
can cherish its position as the birthplace of Italian<br />
cinema and the place where Fellini plied his trade.<br />
“For me, every journey starts and ends at the studios of<br />
Cinecittà,” the director said. “It’s my ideal world. The<br />
cosmic space before the Big Bang.”<br />
Cinecittà Si Mosta tour tickets must be pre-booked.<br />
Visit scinecittasimostra.it<br />
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guide on page 170. Book online at easyJet.com<br />
Sylvia, played<br />
by Anita Ekberg,<br />
in La Dolce Vita (1960);<br />
below, part of the current<br />
Cinecittà Si Mostra tour<br />
takes in an exhibit of<br />
historical costumes
80 | TRAVELLER<br />
Just<br />
Dessert<br />
PUDDING IS THE MAIN COURSE IN<br />
AMSTERDAM RIGHT NOW, THANKS TO<br />
AN ARMY OF ARTISAN CONFECTIONERS<br />
MARIANO HERRERA MARK SMITH<br />
FASHION BY NINO BAUTI<br />
FORGET PARIS AND BRUSSELS; when it comes to chocolate,<br />
Amsterdam is the city that’s breaking the, ahem, mould.<br />
Having fi rst brought the sweet stuff to the masses back in<br />
1828, when CJ Van Houten invented the hydraulic cocoa<br />
press, the Netherlands’ capital is now enjoying a second sugar<br />
rush as a new generation of pâtissiers and chocolatiers are<br />
raising the bar, the cake and the tart to the level of pop art.<br />
Indeed, Amsterdammers are nowadays seduced by<br />
all manner of delicious dessert options – from marzipan<br />
apples to Manolo Blahnik-inspired shoe sculptures. When<br />
Damien Hirst’s diamond-encrusted skull, For the Love of<br />
God, appeared at the Rijksmuseum in 2008, it was only a<br />
matter of days before a saccharine recreation, For the Love of<br />
Candy, appeared in the window of Papabubble (papabubble.<br />
com), one of the self-dubbed “caramel artisans” in the city.<br />
There’s even a restaurant, Sucre (sucrerestaurant.nl), where<br />
diners can eat from a menu infused with surprising sugary<br />
fl ourishes. Reindeer meat with chocolate sauce, anyone?<br />
POMPADOUR<br />
Situated in the<br />
fashionable Nine<br />
Streets shopping<br />
district, the counter<br />
display at this refi ned<br />
pâtisserie-slashtearoom<br />
is nothing<br />
short of astonishing.<br />
Straining under<br />
the weight of a<br />
hundred varieties of<br />
indulgent pastries<br />
and handmade tarts<br />
– think dried orange<br />
segments dipped in<br />
feather-light icing –<br />
the shelves here boast<br />
endless dollops of<br />
fresh whipped cream<br />
to boot. Quintessential<br />
Dutch treats such<br />
as apple tart can<br />
be wrapped up and<br />
taken away or eaten<br />
here, served on bone<br />
china in the exquisite<br />
Louis XVI-style<br />
tearoom panelled<br />
with 18th-century<br />
wood imported from<br />
Antwerp. A second<br />
branch, across town<br />
on Kerkstraat, offers a<br />
similar experience.<br />
12 Huidenstraat<br />
and 148 Kerkstraat;<br />
tel: +31 (0)20 623 9554.
FEATURES | AMSTERDAM<br />
Outside Pompadour<br />
HE WEARS<br />
Hat, Urban Outfi tters, £15;<br />
jumper, Uniqlo, £99.90;<br />
cardigan, Lacoste, £120;<br />
jeans, Calvin Klein Jeans,<br />
£119; socks, Falke, £15;<br />
shoes, Topman, £85<br />
TRAVELLER | 81
FEATURES | AMSTERDAM<br />
82 | TRAVELLER
FEATURES | AMSTERDAM<br />
Inside De Taart Van M’n Tante<br />
SHE WEARS<br />
Dress, Lala Berlin, £325;<br />
cardigan, H&M, £29.99;<br />
tights, £5, and clutch, £15,<br />
Dorothy Perkins; shoes,<br />
LK Bennett, £160<br />
HE WEARS<br />
Top, Uniqlo, £99.90; cardigan,<br />
Paul & Joe, £180; trousers,<br />
Tommy Hilfi ger, £95; socks,<br />
Falke, £15; shoes, Tommy<br />
Hilfi ger, £160<br />
DE TAART VAN M’N<br />
TANTE<br />
Translating as “The<br />
cake of my aunt”, this<br />
über-kitsch café is<br />
owned by cake makers<br />
Siemon de Jong and<br />
Noam Offer, who<br />
believe that every cake<br />
should tell a story.<br />
At least, that’s their<br />
explanation for their<br />
tragi-comic “jilted<br />
bride” and saucy Red<br />
Light District-inspired<br />
“bondage” cakes.<br />
The pair work to<br />
commission, but a<br />
team of acolytes serve<br />
up more conventional<br />
fare – think Victoria<br />
sponge or Dutch<br />
apple pie – amid<br />
soft toys, vintage tat<br />
and framed celebrity<br />
endorsements. Back<br />
in 2004, they opened<br />
a B&B upstairs. Sweet<br />
dreams, it seems, are<br />
made of this.<br />
10 Ferdinand<br />
Bolstraat; tel: +31<br />
(0)20 776 4600,<br />
detaart.com<br />
TRAVELLER | 83
FEATURES | AMSTERDAM<br />
84 | TRAVELLER<br />
Inside De Taart Van M’n Tante<br />
SHE WEARS<br />
Top, Uniqlo, £24.90; dress,<br />
Paul & Joe Sister, £160;<br />
tights, Dorothy Perkins, £5;<br />
shoes, Offi ce, £65; ring,<br />
Swarovski, £130; bag, Mimco,<br />
£175<br />
OPPOSITE PAGE<br />
HE WEARS<br />
Jumper, Paul Smith, £145;<br />
trousers, Paul & Joe, £250;<br />
backpack, Topman, £30
FEATURES | AMSTERDAM<br />
TRAVELLER | 83
FEATURES | AMSTERDAM<br />
This page, inside Pompadour;<br />
opposite, Puccini Bomboni<br />
THIS PAGE<br />
SHE WEARS<br />
Hat, Anthropologie, £48; top,<br />
Uniqlo, £14.90; jumper,<br />
Benetton, £27<br />
OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP<br />
HE WEARS<br />
Shirt, Paul & Joe, £150;<br />
jumper, H&M, £29.99;<br />
trousers, Topman, £36;<br />
socks, Falke, £15; shoes,<br />
Tommy Hilfi ger, £!60<br />
OPPOSITE PAGE, BOTTOM<br />
HE WEARS<br />
Hat, Urban Outfi tters, £15;<br />
sweater, Cheap Monday at<br />
Urban Outfi tters, £45; gilet,<br />
Polo Ralph Lauren, £255<br />
XX | TRAVELLER
PUCCINI BOMBONI<br />
Leave your dignity at<br />
the door – to set foot<br />
inside these temples<br />
to artisan chocolatemaking<br />
is to submit<br />
to uncontrollable<br />
drooling. Beneath<br />
enormous glass vases<br />
of raw chocolate<br />
drops imported from<br />
Belgium, long white<br />
tables showcase<br />
fragrant stacks of<br />
fresh, handmade<br />
pralines and truffl es,<br />
laced with a host<br />
of unexpected<br />
fl avours such as<br />
thyme, rosemary<br />
and cinnamon, and<br />
topped, in some cases,<br />
with decorative fl akes<br />
of pure gold.<br />
The stores have a<br />
no-preservatives rule,<br />
which means you’re<br />
obliged to eat all your<br />
purchases within<br />
seven to 10 days. That<br />
said, they’re likely<br />
to disappear within<br />
seven to 10 minutes.<br />
17 Staalstraat; tel:<br />
+31 (0)20 626 5474<br />
and 184 Singel; tel:<br />
+31 (0)20 427 8341,<br />
puccinibomboni.com<br />
FEATURES | AMSTERDAM<br />
TRAVELLER | 87
FEATURES | AMSTERDAM<br />
This page, outside Puccini<br />
Bomboni; opposite page,<br />
‘t Goede Soet<br />
THIS PAGE<br />
SHE WEARS<br />
Top, Eric Bompard, £285;<br />
jacket, Monki, £38; shorts,<br />
Comptoir des Cotonniers,<br />
£95; tights, Dorothy Perkins,<br />
£5; shoes, Clarks, £79.99<br />
OPPOSITE PAGE<br />
HE WEARS<br />
Shirt, Tommy Hilfi ger, £75;<br />
cardigan, Paul Smith, £405;<br />
jeans, Wrangler, £170; shoes,<br />
Superdry, £44.99<br />
PHOTOGRAPHER<br />
Mariano Herrera<br />
FASHION DIRECTOR<br />
Nino Bauti<br />
PRODUCTION<br />
Amy Dennis<br />
HAIR & MAKE-UP<br />
Ellen Van Exter, using<br />
Ellis Faas Cosmetics<br />
(faasveronique.com)<br />
FASHION ASSISTANT<br />
Normandie Hoche<br />
MODELS<br />
Sarah (egosmodels.com)<br />
Simon F (tonyjonesmodel<br />
management.com)<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
calvinkleinjeans.com<br />
canali.it<br />
chanel.co.uk<br />
etro.it<br />
fi lippa-k.com<br />
fogal.com<br />
gloverall.com<br />
hm.com<br />
hollandesquire.com<br />
loudalton.com<br />
m-c-q.com<br />
paulandjoe.com<br />
paulsmith.co.uk<br />
pringlescotland.com<br />
sandro-paris.com<br />
stiglorgan.com<br />
topman.com<br />
uk.tommy.com<br />
uniqlo.com<br />
zara.com<br />
SPECIAL THANKS<br />
Egon Knops<br />
stayamsterdam.com<br />
Piet van Duijn – cycle hire<br />
etzwartefi etsenplan.nl<br />
88 | TRAVELLER<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
Fly to Amsterdam from 16 destinations. See<br />
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’T GOEDE SOET<br />
Her sleek blonde<br />
bob and sassy<br />
snakeskin boots<br />
speak of the modern<br />
businesswoman, but<br />
Mireille Krützmann’s<br />
popular canal-side<br />
chocolate shop is<br />
born of childhood<br />
obsession. Formerly<br />
a ground hostess at<br />
Schiphol airport,<br />
in November 2001,<br />
Krützmann jumped at<br />
the chance to acquire<br />
a commercial unit<br />
across from the site of<br />
the long-gone sweet<br />
shop she frequented<br />
as a schoolgirl in the<br />
neighbourhood.<br />
“I even named the<br />
place in its honour,”<br />
she recalls fondly.<br />
With its marble<br />
fl oors and live-in Jack<br />
Russell, ’t Goede Soet<br />
(the Good Sweet) may<br />
seem straight out of<br />
the pages of Joanne<br />
Harris’s Chocolat,<br />
but the store retains<br />
a distinctly Dutch<br />
sensibility. Amid the<br />
chocolate-covered<br />
shards of freezedried<br />
mango and<br />
immaculate marzipan<br />
apples, you’ll fi nd bags<br />
of the national staple<br />
hagelslag: sprinkles<br />
of white, milk and<br />
dark chocolate to be<br />
scattered liberally onto<br />
your breakfast bread.<br />
95 Keizersgracht; tel:<br />
+31 (0)20 420 8807.
FEATURES | AMSTERDAM<br />
TRAVELLER | 89
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
LITTLE DISHES,<br />
GRAND TOURS<br />
WITH GORGEOUS PRODUCE AND A LONG GASTRONOMIC TRADITION, THE<br />
BASQUE COUNTRY IS A TRUE FOODIE HAVEN – AND ITS BITE-SIZED ‘PINTXOS’<br />
ARE THE CHEEKY WAY TO SAVOUR IT ALL IN THE ONE DAY-TRIP<br />
ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS of Basque<br />
cuisine is pintxos – a bite-size culinary<br />
creation you’ll fi nd in every bar and<br />
eatery. These traditional house specials<br />
have created a bar culture of their<br />
own, with lively pintxo bar districts<br />
spreading out in most Basque cities.<br />
A pintxo bar-crawl offers the<br />
ultimate gourmet experience of these<br />
destinations, taking in all the hustle and<br />
bustle of the top food districts along<br />
with the locals favourites and regional<br />
specialties. It’s all about ‘txikiteo’ – the<br />
tradition of going from bar to bar with<br />
a group of friends, sipping small glasses<br />
of wine (or ‘txikitos’, whence the name)<br />
and eating delicious matching dishes.<br />
Each bar has its own speciality, so it’s<br />
important to visit as many as possible!<br />
FLAVOURS OF SAN SEBASTIAN<br />
The capital of the Gipuzkoa province,<br />
San Sebastian has the highest number<br />
of Michelin stars per square metre –<br />
which makes it a paradise for gourmets.<br />
The local cuisine offers a stunning<br />
mix of fl avours, aromas and textures,<br />
and enjoys a tradition of innovation<br />
which fi nds the city at the forefront<br />
of global gastronomy. The Old Town<br />
hosts an array of gourmet pleasures,<br />
and a pintxo tour of its streets is an<br />
unforgettable experience.<br />
Guided walking tours are the perfect<br />
way to explore the area, soak up the<br />
atmosphere, learn about the city and<br />
discover the traditions of Basque<br />
culture. One such tour starts at the<br />
Boulevard – which is the entrance
to the Old Town of San Sebastian<br />
– where you’ll fi nd the city’s highest<br />
concentration of pintxo bars. The tour<br />
continues through La Bretxa market,<br />
to the Plaza de la Constitución, and<br />
includes a visit to the church of San<br />
Vicente, the Basilica of Santa Maria<br />
and the port. Along the way you can<br />
sample three pre-selected pintxos and<br />
drinks in three associated bars, for a<br />
wonderful mix of regional specialties.<br />
PINTXO ROUTES: BILBAO AND<br />
VITORIA-GASTEIZ<br />
Bilbao, the capital of Biscaye, has<br />
become an exciting, cosmopolitan city<br />
while preserving its charming heritage<br />
and traditional cultural attractions.<br />
A pintxo barcrawl<br />
offers<br />
the ultimate<br />
gourmet<br />
experience<br />
Vitoria-Gasteiz, the capital of Alava, is<br />
a small city with numerous parks and<br />
wide pedestrian boulevards, making it<br />
a gorgeous place to explore.<br />
And organising your trip couldn’t<br />
be easier, with a range of accommodation<br />
packages in both cities, including entry<br />
into a leading museum as well as a<br />
booklet of pintxo routes. These plot<br />
out carefully selected bars and eateries<br />
showcasing the delights of the regional<br />
cuisine in bite-size pieces, with various<br />
pintxo options offering you the freedom<br />
to tailor-make your bar-hopping route.<br />
The booklet includes several vouchers<br />
that can be redeemed at bars of your<br />
choice, providing 10 pintxos and fi ve<br />
drinks for a truly gastronomic day out.<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
TOURS<br />
FLAVOURS OF SAN SEBASTIAN<br />
Duration: 2 hours<br />
Languages: Spanish and English<br />
Frequency: Please enquire<br />
Minimum group: Any<br />
PINTXOS ROUTES: BILBAO AND<br />
VITORIA-GASTEIZ<br />
Duration: Full day<br />
Languages: Spanish and English<br />
Frequency: Daily. (Departure times vary)<br />
Minimum group: 2 people<br />
For more information about these or<br />
other cities and tours in the Basque<br />
Country, or to book your pintxo tour,<br />
visit tourism.euskadi.net/en
BUSINESS | MARRAKECH MUSIC<br />
92 | TRAVELLER
BUSINESS | MARRAKECH MUSIC<br />
WHAT DO YOU DO IF YOUR UK MUSIC BUSINESS BURNS DOWN? FOR NICK<br />
WILDE THE ANSWER WAS SIMPLE: START AGAIN AMID THE SOUKS<br />
DEREK WORKMAN<br />
TIM MARRS<br />
WHEN THE GODS of rock and roll tell you it’s time<br />
to move on – by fl ooding your recording studio twice<br />
in six months and then, just to be sure you get the<br />
message, setting fi re to it – you start to take notice.<br />
Nick Wilde lost everything in 2007 when his<br />
London-based production house, Fat Fox, went up in<br />
fl ames; so he and his wife, Tatiana, decided to step<br />
back for six months and see where life took them.<br />
Following in the footsteps of countless hippies, poets<br />
and bon viveurs, they found themselves in Marrakech<br />
where they were immediately seduced by the mixture<br />
of hedonism and history. With its ancient, narrow<br />
streets, on the one hand, and the upbeat modernity<br />
of Guéliz (the new town) on the other, the Red City is<br />
a hard place to resist and the couple decided to stay.<br />
They bought the shell of a riad in the Medina, making<br />
the decision to begin restoring it with no thought<br />
whatsoever for their former life in London.<br />
But then that life caught up with them in an<br />
unexpected way. As Wilde worked on his new home,<br />
he got to know his neighbours in the tiny alleyways<br />
and his ears pricked up. “ I discovered that there<br />
were some brilliant young musicians living in the<br />
Medina,” recalls Wilde, “but most of them come from<br />
very meagre backgrounds and there was no way they<br />
could ever get produced. It seemed an obvious idea to<br />
convert part of our riad into a studio.”<br />
Soon youngsters started to arrive at his door and<br />
Wilde quickly realised he was onto something special.<br />
By mixing the rhythms of rebab (a North African<br />
stringed instrument), the Berber and Sufi songs of the<br />
Gnawa people and traditional African beats from the<br />
souks with his own experience of house, electronic and<br />
hip-hop, he soon created a cross-cultural blend that<br />
he knew was unique.<br />
“We didn’t intend to start a business, but once<br />
I got a bit known, more and more people began to<br />
come to the studio. There’s a very rich network of<br />
talent here and eventually I was working with some<br />
TIM WHITE<br />
very interesting musicians from the Sahara, Agadir,<br />
Casablanca – all over Morocco. The whole thing just<br />
came together organically. I didn’t particularly plan it,”<br />
he says. And so Marrakchi Records was born.<br />
The studio got its fi rst major break in 2009, when<br />
Ibiza’s Café del Mar contacted Wilde to produce a<br />
number of tracks for them. He brought together a<br />
group of young musicians who became Blue Medina<br />
Although the material wasn’t used in the end, the<br />
band sent a copy of the CD to 2M, Morocco’s national<br />
radio and TV station. Their track, Edge of the World,<br />
did very well on Moroccan radio and found its way on<br />
to several compilations in Europe.<br />
From there, Wilde received a phone call from<br />
Younes Lazrak, one of the main presenters at the<br />
station, who loved the work he was doing. Lazrak<br />
TRAVELLER | 93
offered him a 40-minute TV programme based on<br />
the bands and musicians working with Marrakchi<br />
Records. “That was Monday and I was in England,”<br />
recalls Wilde. “The live show was on Saturday in<br />
Casablanca. We had four days to rehearse. These were<br />
kids who had never performed live, never mind in<br />
front of a camera. They went down an absolute storm.”<br />
According to Wilde, it’s this casual networking that<br />
is the essence of business in Morocco. “Here, almost<br />
everything is done through word of mouth, family and<br />
friends. So much happens out of the blue. It’s much<br />
more diffi cult to approach someone in London, but<br />
here everyone is helpful. They know it’s diffi cult to<br />
operate in the music business in Morocco, because it’s<br />
actually a very small industry.”<br />
It was through Lazrak that Wilde found some of<br />
the musicians for his new album, Caravane, which he<br />
describes as down-tempo and laid-back, a mixture of<br />
electronic and acoustic with a lot of Moroccan sounds.<br />
The vocals are in Arabic, but done in a way that is<br />
accessible to an international audience.<br />
During its recording, he was surprised to fi nd that,<br />
no matter how contemporary the music was he came<br />
across, it was still highly infl uenced by traditional<br />
themes. “Moroccans are highly patriotic people and<br />
have enormous respect for their musical traditions. It<br />
even shows itself in the rap scene, which is huge here.”<br />
At fi rst glance, it’s not particularly easy to uncover<br />
the music scene in Marrakech, beyond the Westernised<br />
versions of Moroccan music found in the main clubs<br />
and hotels, but for Wilde, that can be a good thing. “It’s<br />
part of travel; you don’t always want to be spoon-fed<br />
everything. It can be a lot more interesting to go and<br />
fi nd things yourself. Some of the smaller bars and<br />
clubs are beginning to put on traditional music, often<br />
mixed with European beats, but some of the best<br />
events are spontaneous.<br />
“Occasionally, you’ll hear of a group of Gnawa<br />
musicians taking over an old warehouse or large space,<br />
and playing and dancing through the night. These<br />
events are incredible, but never publicised. Perhaps<br />
that’s why there’s no recognised scene as such – there is<br />
no listings guide.”<br />
Like anywhere in the world, throughout Marrakech<br />
there are hundreds of kids recording music on<br />
computers in bedroom studios, but these are mainly<br />
backing tracks for rap. Apart from Marrakchi Records,<br />
there are only a handful of studios in the city that can<br />
take budding musicians on to the next step. “There’s<br />
a brilliant Moroccan producer called DJ Van, who’s<br />
probably the top producer for rap in the country. He’s<br />
having a lot of success with the band Fnaire.<br />
94 | TRAVELLER<br />
“Kamar Studios are also in the Medina. They’ve<br />
just released a three-CD set of minimal trance called<br />
The Black Album, but they work mainly with bigger<br />
names, and most of their work is for fi lms and major<br />
soundscapes. They did the music for the opening of<br />
La Mamounia, Marrakech’s iconic hotel, after its<br />
€40-million refi t.<br />
“Apart from them, I’m the only small, independent<br />
producer in the city and the only one who actually<br />
works a lot with local kids. On the other hand,<br />
Marrakech is becoming a major destination for<br />
international acts to record in, because it’s such a great<br />
place. There are a number of top-fl ight – and very, very<br />
expensive – studios springing up around the city.”<br />
Marrakchi is now so highly regarded that Wilde<br />
has been able to call on two of Morocco’s top musical<br />
talents: the amazing vocals of Oum, and the rebab and<br />
violin of Foulane. But earning the respect of the local<br />
establishment and the funds to keep going has been a<br />
slow process.<br />
“It took about three years to begin to make any<br />
money. Even now, four years since I began producing<br />
in Marrakech, I still have to rely on about 50% of my<br />
income from the work I do in the UK.”<br />
Seeking out North African music for a wider<br />
audience takes time. Wilde spent more than a year
travelling around Morocco recording the music for<br />
Caravane, which comes out this month, and he’s keen<br />
to continue his musical explorations. “Essaouira is a<br />
great place to look for music. There’s always live music<br />
on somewhere there, but one of the best times to go<br />
is in June, for the World Music Festival. It’s incredible<br />
and bands come from all over the world.<br />
“Agadir is also good, but for me the most interesting<br />
place at the moment is M’hammid, a town on the<br />
edge of the Sahara, about a 10-hour drive south of<br />
Marrakech. There’s music everywhere there – every<br />
street corner has someone playing on it. They have the<br />
Nomads Festival every March, with both international<br />
musicians and nomadic bands from the desert playing.<br />
That’s my next project – I’m going to go with a camera<br />
crew to record the desert rock that’s coming out of the<br />
region for release on CD and as a TV programme.”<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
Caravane is available from<br />
1 November at iTunes, Amazon,<br />
UK record shops and facebook.com/<br />
caravanemusic<br />
Marrakech from eight destinations. See our insider<br />
guide on page 160. Book online at easyJet.com<br />
Nick Wilde hits the<br />
Sahara desert and,<br />
below, a recording<br />
session in the courtyard<br />
of his riad<br />
BUSINESS | MARRAKECH MUSIC<br />
“I’m the only small<br />
independent producer<br />
who actually works a lot<br />
with local kids”
PROPERTY | DORDOGNE<br />
New buildings<br />
are changing the<br />
skyline of Vienna’s<br />
second district<br />
98 | TRAVELLER
Born Again<br />
VIENNA’S ONCE-CRUMBLING SECOND DISTRICT IS IN THE MIDST OF<br />
A PROPERTY BOOM, WITH SMART SHOPS, RESTAURANTS AND SHINY<br />
NEW BUILDINGS ENTICING A NEW BREED OF RESIDENT<br />
GERAINT WILLIAMS<br />
LUKAS SCHALLER<br />
WHEN COMPARED TO THE classical grandeur of<br />
Vienna’s fi rst district, Innere Stadt, it’s no surprise that<br />
Leopoldstadt has always come off behind. Though<br />
only minutes away on foot, the city’s second district<br />
could not feel more different to the historical heart of<br />
the ancient metropolis.<br />
Unlike the Baroque palaces and ornate coffee<br />
houses of the central area, the view here is dominated<br />
by an unappealing array of offi ce blocks and bleak<br />
1950s housing, while the location – situated on what’s<br />
effectively an island created by the Danube River to<br />
the north and the Danube Canal to the immediate<br />
south – has always added to a sense of dislocation<br />
from the rest of the city.<br />
Look a little more closely, though, and you’ll notice<br />
that changes are afoot – not least to the skyline.<br />
Between the crumbling church spires and post-war<br />
eyesores, you’ll now see the glass-clad structure<br />
of architect Jean Nouvel’s fi ve-star Sofi tel Vienna<br />
Stephansdom. Opened last December, complete with<br />
an Antoine Westermann-supervised restaurant, Le<br />
Loft, a vertical garden by French landscape architect<br />
Patrick Blanc and three fl oors of high-end design<br />
shops, Nouvel’s landmark tower is a welcome addition.<br />
It’s also a sure sign of the gentrifi cation process<br />
that’s happening in Leopoldstadt, centred around<br />
the Karmeliterviertel area of the district. This onceshabby<br />
locale, at the heart of Vienna’s historic Jewish<br />
community and named after a nearby Carmelite<br />
cloister, has been tipped since the early noughties as an<br />
area on the up, but it’s only recently that things have<br />
really started to happen.<br />
Accelerated by the arrival of the U2 underground<br />
line on Taborstrasse in 2008, the district’s cool has<br />
been cemented by the arrival of elegant boutiques and<br />
restaurants, attracting artists, students and young,<br />
creative professionals.<br />
Drawn by its ethnic mix (the local Jewish and<br />
Turkish communities make their homes here),<br />
proximity to the city centre and reasonable rents,<br />
PROPERTY | VIENNA<br />
The condominiums<br />
and single-family<br />
homes in the<br />
K-2 development<br />
feature<br />
underground<br />
parking and<br />
spacious terraces<br />
these new residents, with their thick-rimmed<br />
spectacles, laptops and bicycles, are easy to spot on the<br />
terraces of the Karmelitermarkt’s bars and cafés.<br />
Among them is Kozva Rigaud, whose photographic<br />
agency has offi ces in the Karmeliterviertel and Berlin’s<br />
Prenzlauer Berg. She appreciates the growing number<br />
of chic stores and, as a young mum, the abundance<br />
of green spaces and liberal outlook. “There are lots<br />
of young couples with kids,” she says. “People have a<br />
very tolerant mindset here, and there’s a sort of fusion<br />
between the different religions and cultures.”<br />
IT’S NO SURPRISE THAT families are moving in. Only<br />
four blocks away, overlooked by some of the area’s most<br />
desirable properties, you can stroll in the vast Baroque<br />
Augarten park and sip coffee in the bucolic Augarten<br />
Contemporary (belvedere.at) – an outpost of the<br />
Belvedere Palace gallery.<br />
It’s a far cry from the area’s colourful past.<br />
Leopoldstadt has a long Jewish tradition dating<br />
back to the 17th century. In the 1800s, Jews fl eeing<br />
the pogroms in the east settled here, earning it the<br />
nickname of “matzo island”. In no other district of<br />
Vienna is the memory of World War II so noticeable.<br />
The sight of the fl ak towers in the Augarten is a stark<br />
reminder of the aerial bombing that Vienna endured<br />
TRAVELLER | 97
PROPERTY | VIENNA<br />
in the fi nal year of the war. All through Leopoldstadt,<br />
and particularly in the Karmeliterviertel, small brass<br />
plaques have been embedded in the pavements in<br />
front of doorways naming former residents and<br />
detailing their fates. After the war, Leopoldstadt fell<br />
under Russian control in the four-power division of<br />
the city, a fact refl ected in one of the area’s current<br />
nicknames, Bobograd. The 1960s and 1970s saw<br />
a new wave of immigration from Turkey and the<br />
Balkans, and the district became synonymous with<br />
urban decline, delinquency and prostitution. Since the<br />
fall of the Berlin Wall, Orthodox Jews from the former<br />
Soviet Union have gradually found a foothold here too,<br />
and their population now numbers around 4,000. In<br />
March 2007, owing to a common Jewish migratory<br />
heritage, Leopoldstadt was offi cially twinned with<br />
Brooklyn, New York.<br />
Now you’ll fi nd an increasing number of non-Jewish<br />
residents living side by side with this community. Over<br />
a mint tea at Madiani (Stand 21-24, Karmelitermarkt;<br />
tel: +43 (0)664 456 1217), Mia Eidlhuber, features<br />
editor on the quality Viennese daily Der Standard,<br />
points out the homes of some of the quarter’s most<br />
illustrious new residents.<br />
A new penthouse overlooking the market belongs<br />
to the Vienna council’s head of arts and culture, while<br />
a nearby fl at in an imposing 19th-century mansion<br />
building is home to the city’s most prestigious milliner,<br />
Klaus Mühlbauer. Another familiar face around<br />
Karmelitermarkt is Robert Menasse, one of Austria’s<br />
most fêted novelists, and Erwin Wurm, a star on the<br />
international art circuit, has his studio nearby on<br />
Taborstrasse. Eidlhuber herself settled here after a long<br />
stretch in Berlin and says its village feel has much in<br />
common with parts of the German capital.<br />
“Johann Strauss<br />
composed the Blue<br />
Danube Waltz here”<br />
Property near the<br />
Karmelitermarkt is<br />
attracting Vienna’s<br />
illustrious residents<br />
98 | TRAVELLER<br />
The swanky new<br />
Sofi tel Vienna<br />
Stephansdom hotel<br />
has confi rmed the<br />
second district’s<br />
gentrifi cation<br />
Although the buying of property, as opposed to<br />
renting, is still in its infancy here, the area’s property<br />
market has taken off dramatically. “Prices in the<br />
Karmeliterviertel are now comparable to more<br />
established districts, such as the Naschmarkt or even<br />
the eighth district,” says estate agent Doris Rotschopf<br />
(immobilien-rot.at). Since 2009, prices have risen<br />
by about 20%. This still represents remarkably good<br />
value, especially when compared to the nearby fi rst<br />
district, which has enjoyed a 15% increase in prices<br />
over the past year alone. According to a report by<br />
estate agents Engel & Völkers (engelvoelkers.com),<br />
prices are now as high as €17,000 per m 2 in the most<br />
desirable inner-city areas.<br />
In comparison, in the Karmeliterviertel, to purchase<br />
a sunny, well laid-out fl at in a 19th-century building,<br />
prices range from €3,500 to €4,000 per m 2 . For<br />
rooftop conversions or fl ats with terraces, prices are<br />
around €6,000 per m 2 . For fl ats built between the<br />
1950s and 1970s, expect to pay around 25% less.<br />
At the higher end of the spectrum, a 153m 2<br />
penthouse with a 75m 2 terrace in the luxury new<br />
K-2 development just off Karmelitermarkt, due for<br />
completion at the end of <strong>2011</strong>, is going for €962,000<br />
(viennaimmobilien.com).<br />
In many ways, the Karmeliterviertel represents a<br />
new, more vibrant face of this venerable city. And for<br />
those who may argue that it’s not like the “real” Vienna<br />
of museums and coffee shops, here’s a small factoid for<br />
you. It was actually in an apartment on Praterstrasse,<br />
in the heart of the district, that Johann Strauss<br />
composed the Blue Danube Waltz in 1866. Widely<br />
regarded as the city’s theme tune, you can’t really get<br />
more Viennese than that…<br />
easyJet fl ies to...<br />
Vienna from London. See our insider<br />
guide on page 178. Book online at easyJet.com
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DIRECTORY | SKI<br />
Hola St. Anton! Mallorca goes skiing!<br />
Grand Opening 2/12<br />
VALLUGA HOTEL<br />
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Visit wwww.maiensee.com<br />
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DIRECTORY | SKI
5 reasons to visit the<br />
Chamonix Mont-Blanc Valley<br />
DIRECTORY | SKI<br />
A SNOW SURE DESTINATION<br />
90% of Chamonix’s skiing is located above 2000m<br />
offering exceptional conditions from December<br />
through until early May.<br />
A WIDE VARIETY OF TERRAIN, SPECTACULAR SCENERY<br />
The Chamonix Valley is considered a Mecca for<br />
freeriders, but there’s also plenty of great family skiing,<br />
fun terrain parks for all ages and unrivalled panoramas<br />
of the Mont-Blanc Massif.<br />
A BEAUTIFUL ALPINE TOWN<br />
Sit on a sunny terrace in the pedestrian centre and<br />
soak up the atmosphere of this vibrant Alpine town.<br />
Discover a thriving music and artistic scene and a vast<br />
gastronomic choice including Michelin star restaurants!<br />
GREAT FOR SIGHTSEEING AND ACTIVITIES<br />
Take the cog railway to the Mer de Glace (sea of ice) or<br />
soar to the dizzy heights of 3842m with the Aiguille du<br />
Midi cable car. Enjoy winter walks on prepared trails,<br />
dog sledding, skijoring (with horses), ice skating ... the<br />
choices are endless.<br />
EASY ACCESS, GREAT LOCATION<br />
Just one hour from Geneva airport with regular shuttle<br />
services to resort.<br />
FROM £185 (213€). Book before 30 th November. www.chamonix.com
VALLÉE D’AULPS PHOTO © M. VITRÉ/PORTES DU SOLEIL<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
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FOR DIVINE SKIING AND THE ULTIMATE APRÈS SCENES, HEAD TO THE ALPS<br />
NEVAÏ, VERBIER, SWITZERLAND<br />
This four-star ‘Design Hotel’ is the ultimate in comfort<br />
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suites are not to be missed, while the hotel is also home to<br />
one of the resort’s most fashionable restaurants, where an<br />
attractive menu combines with stunning views of the<br />
Alps for a truly spectacular meal. The Nevaï Bar enjoys<br />
a four-metre-long open fi replace, sunken seating and<br />
cosy ‘boudoir’ – the perfect place for drinks before moving<br />
on to Verbier’s legendary Farm Club.<br />
Verbier, +41 (0)27 775 4000, www.hotelnevai.com,<br />
nevaihotel@kingsverbier.ch<br />
VILLARD RECULAS, FRANCE<br />
Enjoy all the charm of a village ski station in the Alpe d’Huez<br />
Grand Domaine Ski, where picturesque chalets are dotted<br />
through a preservation area. Right in the heart of the Alps,<br />
the station offers 250km of runs and the steepest slopes in<br />
the world. The station has a ski school, sports shops, bars,<br />
restaurants and more – plus there are numerous other<br />
activities and cultural offerings in the region. Take advantage<br />
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Tourism Offi ce, 1 route des Pistes, 38114 Villard Reculas,<br />
+33 (0)476 804 569, villard-reculas.com<br />
VALLÉE D’AULPS, FRANCE<br />
Just 75 minutes from Geneva airport, la Vallée d’Aulps offers<br />
three ski stations covering all levels of ability. From the largest<br />
resort, Montriond-Avoriaz, to the family-oriented St Jean<br />
d’Aulps, to the small and tranquil Le Biot Drouzin le Mont,<br />
there’s something here for everyone and every budget. La<br />
Vallée d’Aulps also offers access to the Portes du Soleil ski area<br />
with 650km of runs across 12 stations. Great deals for 2012<br />
are available on the website – such as this: one week for two<br />
(accommodation plus a six-day ski package) at Roc d’Enfer,<br />
Saint Jean d’Aulps, just £315; conditions apply.<br />
+33 (0)450 721 515, valleedaulps.com<br />
SERRE CHEVALIER VALLÉE, FRANCE<br />
With over 250km of snow-sure slopes, Serre Chevalier<br />
Vallée offers skiers and snowboarders amazing altitudes<br />
of up to 2,830m. Stretching 15km along the Guisane<br />
Valley, there’s a wide range of good-value hotels,<br />
restaurants and chalets. The region is great for families,<br />
with ski school facilities in every village – plus those<br />
under six qualify for a free lift pass. The valley is just<br />
a short drive from Grenoble and Lyon’s airports, and<br />
self-catering accommodation starts from as little as<br />
£209pp/week, including lift-pass.<br />
serre-chevalier.com
UNDER THE HIGH PATRONAGE OF H.S.H. PRINCE ALBERT II OF MONACO<br />
CASINO DE MONTE-CARLO PRESENTS<br />
24 "MONTE-CARLO GUITAR SUMMIT" WITH JOHN McLAUGHLIN + MIKE STERN + BIRÉLI LAGRÈNE + SYLVAIN LUC<br />
+ PHILIP CATHERINE + RICHARD BONA + STEVE GADD + ANDRÉ CECCARELLI + JOEY DeFRANCESCO<br />
25 MICHEL PORTAL "BAÏLADOR" + ALDO ROMANO "COMPLETE COMMUNION" ALEX TERRIER<br />
26 AVISHAI COHEN "SEVEN SEAS" TIGRAN HAMASYAN TRIO<br />
JEAN-CHRISTOPHE DI COSTANZO QUARTET<br />
T. (377) 98 06 36 36<br />
montecarloresort.com I digitick.com I ticketnet.fr I fnac.com<br />
THE NEW RENTAL WEBSITE FOR HOME OWNERS<br />
AND PROPERTY MANAGERS ALIKE.<br />
The site has been designed in such a way that owners are<br />
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rental potential.<br />
Our one off annual subscription fee is highly competitive<br />
and offers two separate packages, one for owners<br />
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Photo : © Jérôme Kélagopian
IN THE LAP OF LUXURY<br />
THE MONTE-CARLO SBM group is<br />
synonymous with luxury, and offers a<br />
fantastic stay at the best leisure venues<br />
in the Principality. These include hotels,<br />
casinos, 33 bars (such as Buddha Bar),<br />
restaurants and spas. The soothing,<br />
sun-soaked climate is perfect for<br />
de-stressing, and Monte-Carlo SBM’s<br />
‘Marine Stay’ package (from €597) is the<br />
ultimate wellness escape, offering:<br />
› Two nights in a double room with<br />
breakfast at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-<br />
Carlo or Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo.<br />
› Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo spa<br />
will arrange an ‘energy check-up’ to<br />
personalise your treatments.<br />
› Six marine treatments over two days<br />
taking advantage of the sea water rich<br />
in minerals and trace elements, plus the<br />
healing Mediterranean sun.<br />
› Free admission to group classes<br />
(aquagym, body sculpt, stretch, abdos,<br />
FAC, special back, kiné form).<br />
› The ‘Carte Monte-Carlo SBM’, offering<br />
free admission to the Casino de<br />
Monte-Carlo, free use of Resort shuttles,<br />
a 50% reduction on playing fees at the<br />
Monte-Carlo Golf Club and Monte-Carlo<br />
Country Club, and the convenience of<br />
charging expenses to your hotel bill.<br />
Tel. +377 (0)9 806 2525;<br />
montecarloresort.com<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
THE SUBLIME ‘MARINE STAY’ PACKAGE FROM THE MONTE-CARLO SBM<br />
GROUP TAKES WELLNESS ESCAPES TO THE NEXT BLISSFUL LEVEL<br />
The fi ve-star Hôtel<br />
Hermitage Monte-Carlo;<br />
above: the Thermes<br />
Marins Monte-Carlo spa
A-Z | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
DESTINATION<br />
GUIDES<br />
A-Z<br />
europe and beyond<br />
108 | TRAVELLER<br />
Madeira<br />
Tenerife South<br />
Lanzarote<br />
Gran Canaria<br />
Fuerteventura<br />
Agadir<br />
Santiago de Compostela<br />
Lisbon<br />
Casablanca<br />
Marrakech<br />
Porto<br />
Faro<br />
PORTUGAL<br />
MOROCCO<br />
Seville<br />
Gibraltar<br />
Tangier<br />
Málaga<br />
Fez<br />
Asturias<br />
SPAIN<br />
Madrid<br />
Brest<br />
Almería<br />
Belfast<br />
Isle of Man<br />
Glasgow<br />
Liverpool<br />
Aberdeen<br />
UK<br />
Birmingham<br />
Inverness<br />
Edinburgh<br />
Newcastle<br />
Leeds Bradford<br />
Manchester<br />
Bristol<br />
London STN<br />
LTN SEN<br />
Bournemouth<br />
LGW<br />
Bilbao<br />
Murcia<br />
Jersey<br />
Nantes<br />
La Rochelle<br />
Paris CDG<br />
FRANCE<br />
Amsterdam<br />
BELGIUM<br />
Brussels Int<br />
Paris ORY<br />
Bordeaux Lyon<br />
Biarritz Grenoble<br />
Valencia<br />
Alicante<br />
Dortmund<br />
NETHERLANDS<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
Cologne/<br />
Bonn<br />
Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg<br />
Zürich<br />
SWITZERLAND<br />
Geneva<br />
Toulouse<br />
Nice<br />
Montpellier<br />
Marseille<br />
Barcelona<br />
Ibiza<br />
Majorca<br />
NEW<br />
Menorca<br />
Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio)
DENMARK<br />
Hamburg<br />
SWEDEN<br />
Gothenburg<br />
GERMANY<br />
ITALY<br />
Stockholm<br />
Prague<br />
CZECH REPUBLIC<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
Milan<br />
MXP<br />
Verona<br />
SLOVENIA<br />
Ljubljana Zagreb<br />
Venice CROATIA<br />
Milan LIN<br />
Pisa<br />
Corsica<br />
(Bastia)<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Berlin<br />
Dresden<br />
Munich<br />
Salzburg Vienna<br />
Innsbruck<br />
Bologna<br />
Rome FCO<br />
Olbia<br />
Naples<br />
Cagliari<br />
Rome CIA<br />
Palermo<br />
Malta<br />
Lamezia<br />
Catania<br />
Split<br />
Bari<br />
POLAND<br />
Krakow<br />
HUNGARY<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
Brindisi<br />
Budapest<br />
KOSOVO<br />
Corfu<br />
Tallinn<br />
ESTONIA<br />
Pristina<br />
GREECE<br />
ROMANIA<br />
Sofi a<br />
Thessaloniki<br />
Bucharest<br />
BULGARIA<br />
Izmir<br />
Istanbul<br />
TURKEY<br />
Athens<br />
Antalya<br />
Bodrum<br />
Zante<br />
Mykonos<br />
Kos<br />
Dalaman<br />
Santorini<br />
Rhodes<br />
Crete (Chania) Crete (Heraklion) Cyprus<br />
(Paphos)<br />
EGYPT<br />
A-Z | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
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with easyJet.com, for<br />
all your travel needs<br />
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TRAVELLER | 109
110 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Aberdeen<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £15.<br />
Up to three<br />
buses an hour go<br />
to the city centre from<br />
5.05am–11.39pm<br />
Monday–Saturday<br />
and 10.05am–9.49pm<br />
on Sunday. Tickets:<br />
from £1.40.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Carmelite (Stirling<br />
Street, tel: 01224<br />
589 101) Come for<br />
an afternoon tea<br />
with a twist – munch<br />
your way through<br />
three tiers of goodies<br />
including scones,<br />
dainty sandwiches,<br />
homemade tray bakes<br />
and sip Havana Mojito<br />
or Cosmopolitan<br />
Gin cocktails from<br />
vintage china.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Zen<br />
Oriental (16–17 Bon<br />
Accord Crescent,<br />
tel: 01224 212 702)<br />
Head to Zen Oriental<br />
for a taste of the East<br />
in this beautifully<br />
decorated restaurant,<br />
where fl avoursome<br />
traditional dishes are<br />
served alongside an<br />
extensive selection<br />
of wine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
The Blue Lamp (121<br />
Gallowgate, tel: 01224<br />
619 769) For a real<br />
jazz club atmosphere<br />
catch a show at The<br />
Blue Lamp. Cosy and<br />
sophisticated, the city<br />
centre venue has a<br />
number of shows to<br />
entertain you while<br />
you escape the winter<br />
chills in the snug bar.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bad Apple (2 Justice<br />
Mill Lane) The big<br />
sister to the cool<br />
Amicus Apple bar,<br />
Bad Apple nightclub<br />
is the perfect venue to<br />
dance the night away.<br />
Great party nights are<br />
held here including<br />
the 1970s inspired<br />
Soul Train Sunday.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Wrap up warm<br />
and head to the<br />
Aberdeen beach on<br />
5 November for the<br />
Aberdeen Firework<br />
Display. The fi reworks<br />
start at 8pm, but get<br />
there early to soak up<br />
the atmosphere<br />
(tel: 01224 522 956).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Around 18100m 3<br />
of Aberdeen granite<br />
went into the<br />
construction of the<br />
Forth Rail Bridge.<br />
Beverley Tricker<br />
Agadir<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A taxi costs MAD200.<br />
Bus No.22 runs<br />
every hour to<br />
Inezgane. Tickets:<br />
MAD4. From there take<br />
a bus to Agadir.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le<br />
Vendome (Boulevard<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Veneziano<br />
(Boulevard<br />
Mohamed V) Drinks,<br />
shisha pipes, pizza,<br />
live music and a<br />
wonderful view over<br />
Agadir: Veneziano,<br />
with its lovely terrace<br />
seems to have it all!<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
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du 20 Août, tel: 0528<br />
824 816) Le Vendome’s<br />
new owner has given<br />
the restaurant a<br />
makeover and provided<br />
a very relaxing seafront<br />
dining area.<br />
EXCLUSIVE So<br />
Good (Hotel Sofi tel,<br />
Baie des Palmiers, tel:<br />
0528 820 088) Listed<br />
in the Best Restaurants<br />
Maroc guide and true<br />
to its name, the food<br />
in this restaurant is<br />
absolutely delicious.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Atlantic Palace (Hotel<br />
Atlantic Palace, Secteur<br />
Balneaire) Enjoy an<br />
evening at the superb<br />
Hotel Atlantic Palace.<br />
Take your pick from<br />
the casino, restaurant<br />
or disco with top<br />
DJs, comedians and<br />
variety acts.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The strong waves<br />
off Morocco’s Atlantic<br />
coast provide an<br />
exhilarating experience<br />
for surfers. Even for<br />
beginners, it’s not<br />
expensive to hire a<br />
surfboard and wetsuit<br />
and pay for some<br />
lessons. Anchor point<br />
near Taghazout is<br />
where the pros go.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
This month is the<br />
Berber olive harvest,<br />
when villagers gather<br />
to shake the boughs of<br />
the trees, dropping the<br />
ripe olives. The fruits<br />
are then collected<br />
and transported off<br />
by donkeys.<br />
Anne Imisliou<br />
IF YOU FIND CHEAPER WE’LL REFUND<br />
DOUBLE THE DIFFERENCE * – GOOD LUCK!<br />
Alicante<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW,<br />
LTN, SEN, STN),<br />
Manchester, Newcastle<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
An airport bus to<br />
Alicante City<br />
goes to the railway<br />
station. ALSA runs<br />
a bus service to<br />
Benidorm and takes<br />
45 minutes. Buy<br />
onboard, tickets: €8.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Ray’s<br />
Fish & Chips<br />
(Calle Derramador,<br />
Benidorm) A homely<br />
long-established<br />
venue, redolent of the<br />
aromas of frying cod<br />
and halibut and hot<br />
sizzling chips. Have<br />
a dish to take away or<br />
eat on the premises<br />
– salt and vinegar<br />
shakers and ketchup<br />
are supplied. The<br />
service is very friendly<br />
and wine or beer<br />
is on off er.<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Eagle’s Nest (CV70<br />
between Guadalest<br />
and Alcoi, tel: 96<br />
588 5911) This rustic<br />
restaurant serves the<br />
best lamb in the valley.<br />
Enjoy the stunning<br />
mountain scenery<br />
and the wine that’s<br />
served for free. They’ll<br />
even pick up your<br />
party of six or more if<br />
you’re staying in the<br />
Benidorm area.<br />
UP TO €50 Ta Casa<br />
(36 Ferrería, Alfaz del<br />
Pi, tel: 96 588 7469)<br />
This is a beautiful<br />
location with ample<br />
parking. Taste the<br />
pan-baked sea bream,<br />
which is a delight. This<br />
venue also serves<br />
the best tournedos<br />
rossini (steaks) on the<br />
coast. There’s a good<br />
selection of Spanish<br />
wines, too.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Options (Edifi cio<br />
Cap D’Or, Local 2,<br />
Avendia de la Paz,<br />
Moraira, tel: 96 649<br />
1899) This is a refi ned<br />
restaurant boasting<br />
classic international<br />
dishes and an<br />
excellent selection of<br />
wines. Classy service<br />
and attentive but<br />
unobtrusive waiters<br />
make this an ideal<br />
rendezvous for lovers<br />
of good food and drink.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Bodhran (Calle Dr<br />
Orta Llorca, Principado<br />
Playa, Benidorm, tel:<br />
96 586 0093) Head<br />
to The Bodhran for<br />
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ANH 4R<br />
Anhar<br />
BE55 ELL<br />
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BLY 70N<br />
Blyton<br />
80 ON<br />
Boon<br />
BO55 LEY<br />
Bossley<br />
BOU 6H<br />
Bough<br />
80 ULT<br />
Boult<br />
BOY 3R<br />
Boyer<br />
CAR 3N<br />
Caren<br />
600 MBS<br />
Coombs<br />
COW 3Y<br />
Cowey<br />
COW I3Y<br />
Cowley<br />
CRO 77Y<br />
Crotty<br />
D4 NDO<br />
Dando<br />
D4 SEY<br />
Dasey<br />
D3 NNE<br />
Denne<br />
DOB 8S<br />
Dobbs<br />
DOU 5E<br />
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DUN 570N<br />
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Hoult<br />
LED 63R<br />
Ledger<br />
LOX I3Y<br />
Loxley<br />
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Lucian<br />
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MER 50N<br />
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PR06 TOR<br />
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112 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Alicante<br />
Spain<br />
a lively pub with a<br />
cool atmosphere and<br />
a dark interior, just<br />
a step or two from<br />
Benidorm’s Levante<br />
Beach. Excellent beers<br />
are served on tap and<br />
friendly staff make for<br />
a pleasant evening.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Bentley’s Bar (Paichi<br />
Centre, Moraira) A<br />
great venue for live<br />
music throughout<br />
the week, Bentley’s<br />
Bar attracts a young<br />
crowd who fl ock to see<br />
the local bands that<br />
play regular gigs.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Penelope (Avenida<br />
de la Communidad<br />
Valenciana) Located<br />
on Benidorm’s disco<br />
strip, Penelope thumps<br />
out music until the<br />
early hours. Great DJs,<br />
sounds and lasers<br />
will keep you going<br />
throughout the night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Alicante’s<br />
famous department<br />
store El Corte Inglés<br />
stands on the Avenida<br />
Maisonnave. Here<br />
you can buy almost<br />
anything from chic<br />
perfumes and colognes<br />
to fashionable leather<br />
goods, electronics<br />
and crystalware. A<br />
smart restaurant and<br />
café off er refreshments<br />
between forays.<br />
SEE From 6–10<br />
November Alfaz<br />
del Pi celebrates its<br />
patronal fi esta with<br />
colourful processions,<br />
fl oral off erings, and<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
Just<br />
Dessert<br />
A SUGAR-COATED<br />
GUIDE TO AMSTERDAM’S<br />
BEST SWEET TREATS<br />
Where to fi nd early snow<br />
Party like it’s 1969 in Berlin<br />
Art at the Hadron Collider<br />
Our network’s best Xmas gifts<br />
An ode to Thessaloniki<br />
NOVEMBER <strong>2011</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />
001 Cover Final.indd 1 13/10/<strong>2011</strong> 08:52<br />
fi reworks. There’s<br />
lots to see so<br />
take a camera.<br />
GO Check out the<br />
Fountain Square in<br />
Polop and drink a<br />
glass of wine at a<br />
nearby bar as you<br />
watch dozens of<br />
artesian fountains<br />
named after local<br />
towns bringing water<br />
down from the sierras.<br />
ESCAPE Take<br />
a trip up into the<br />
Sierra Aitana behind<br />
Benidorm to visit the<br />
old Moorish village<br />
of Finestrat. Stroll<br />
around the narrow<br />
streets with their<br />
tiny shops selling the<br />
village’s traditional<br />
bread and glazed<br />
fruit and check out<br />
the famous hanging<br />
houses overlooking<br />
the valley. Follow the<br />
tourist trail sponsored<br />
by the local council.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Spain has over<br />
8,000km of beaches.<br />
Danny Collins<br />
PUEBLO<br />
ACANTILADO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
With a cliff -side<br />
location, the relaxed<br />
Pueblo Ancantilado<br />
has unbeatable<br />
views over the<br />
Costa Blanca. From<br />
€40, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Almería<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €13.<br />
Route 20 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Asador<br />
Calle Mayor (12 Calle<br />
General Segura, tel:<br />
950 239 772) Delicious<br />
tapas are served free<br />
with every drink. If<br />
you’re thirsty, dinner<br />
will cost you nothing.<br />
Otherwise, choose<br />
from a traditional<br />
Spanish menu with<br />
barbecued meats and<br />
local fried fi sh.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Costa Sol (58 Paseo<br />
Almería, tel: 950<br />
236 665) A luxurious<br />
hotel restaurant with<br />
a wide and varied<br />
menu presented in<br />
a formal setting. The<br />
sea bream is highly<br />
recommended.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Baviera<br />
(10 Calle Tenor<br />
5m passengers per month?<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Iribarne, tel: 950 273<br />
008) As well as the<br />
tasty fi sh and seafood<br />
tapas that are served<br />
up with any drink<br />
you choose, the main<br />
draw here is the<br />
local wine, which is<br />
strong and lively.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Port of Spain (50<br />
Calle Reina) Get your<br />
toes a’tapping to the<br />
cool jazz played here,<br />
one of the city’s most<br />
chilled-out bars.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE One of Spain’s<br />
favourite solo<br />
artists, David Bisbal,<br />
is playing at the<br />
Teatro-Auditorio in<br />
Roquetas de Mar<br />
on 9 November.<br />
Tickets to see the<br />
charismatic singer,<br />
who is something<br />
of a pin-up, start at<br />
€30 (2930 Boulevard<br />
Adolfo Lopez Mateos,<br />
teatroauditorio<br />
roquetas.org).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Encarnación<br />
cathedral in the<br />
Old Town was<br />
constructed in the<br />
16th century after<br />
an earthquake<br />
reduced the previous<br />
church to rubble.<br />
The extraordinary<br />
building of today is<br />
more fortress than<br />
place of worship.<br />
There are turrets<br />
and areas once<br />
used to mount<br />
cannons, which<br />
were used to<br />
repel the raids<br />
of Corsair pirates<br />
David Jones<br />
Amman<br />
Jordan<br />
DIALLING CODE +962<br />
CURRENCY JOD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
The bus takes 50<br />
minutes from the<br />
airport. Tickets: €3.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Tawaheen Al-Hawa<br />
(Wasfi al-Tal Road,<br />
tel: 06 534 9986)<br />
Authentic and<br />
delicious Arabic food<br />
served in a relaxed<br />
traditional setting.<br />
In hot weather,<br />
meals can be taken<br />
outside under the<br />
shade of a Bedoiun<br />
tent. Particularly<br />
renowned for<br />
great mezze.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Maison Vert<br />
(Shmeisani, tel: 06<br />
568 5746) A French<br />
restaurant with the<br />
emphasis on fi ne<br />
dining. The food is<br />
gourmet and the<br />
décor sophisticated,<br />
yet the atmosphere<br />
is deliberately<br />
Are you interested in advertising to<br />
Please contact our advertising sales team<br />
on +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
relaxed. When the<br />
weather is warm,<br />
meals can be served<br />
on the sundeck.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Time<br />
Out Sports Bar<br />
(Kempinski Hotel,<br />
Abdul Hamid<br />
Shouman Street, tel:<br />
07 9610 5571) Head<br />
to this chilled-out<br />
sports bar for bigscreen<br />
TVs to watch<br />
the big events going<br />
on in the sporting<br />
world while you sip a<br />
cool beer. For those<br />
less interested in the<br />
week’s goals, there<br />
are pool tables, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Terminal (7th Circle,<br />
tel: 07 9521 2566)<br />
Head to Terminal<br />
for live music, DJ<br />
nights and live sports<br />
coverage on the big<br />
screen. Get there on<br />
a Thursday for<br />
a night of rock.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Visit the citadel’s<br />
ancient ruins. Not<br />
only is it a fantastic<br />
historic spot, but the<br />
views over Amman are<br />
spectacular, and it’s an<br />
ideal way to get your<br />
bearings for a day’s<br />
exploration of this city<br />
built on seven hills.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Archeologists believe<br />
that there have<br />
been people living<br />
in Petra since at<br />
least 1500BC, making<br />
it one of the most<br />
important historic<br />
cities in the world.<br />
Huw J Williams<br />
00000 EasyJet Sales 5mil Banner.indd 1 17/10/<strong>2011</strong> 16:17<br />
TAXI
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Netherlands<br />
DIALLING CODE +31<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Barcelona, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
SEN, STN), Madrid,<br />
Manchester, Milan<br />
(MXP), Prague,<br />
Rome, Split<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €40.<br />
Regular trains<br />
run to Centraal<br />
station. Tickets:<br />
€4 single; €7<br />
same-day return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Café<br />
Latei (143 Zeedijk,<br />
tel: 020 625 7485)<br />
Don’t be put off by the<br />
ramshackle vibe; this<br />
low-key café is right<br />
on the money when<br />
it comes to hearty<br />
omelettes and tasty<br />
sandwiches fi lled<br />
with delicacies<br />
from the nearby<br />
farmers’ markets.<br />
UP TO €30 Bar<br />
Moustache (141<br />
<br />
Utrechtsestraat,<br />
tel: 020 428 1074)<br />
Decked out in quirky<br />
mismatched furniture,<br />
Moustache is earning<br />
a reputation among<br />
the cool kids of the<br />
Canal District. Serving<br />
comfort food (think<br />
ravioli fi lled with goats’<br />
cheese and beetroot),<br />
it’s the perfect place<br />
to down tools.<br />
UP TO €50 Diga<br />
(137 Amsteldijk, tel:<br />
020 404 4360) Chef<br />
Richenel Doekhi<br />
seems to have taken<br />
his lead from the fl air<br />
cocktail bartending<br />
that attracts large<br />
numbers to this slick<br />
waterside venue. The<br />
after-hours business<br />
crowd enjoys a fi nely<br />
tuned array of Italianinspired<br />
dishes<br />
that taste as good<br />
as they look.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Anna<br />
(111 Warmoesstraat,<br />
tel: 020 428 111)<br />
Granted, the prices<br />
may not be in keeping<br />
with the otherwise<br />
cheap and cheerful<br />
Old Centre district, but<br />
you get what you pay<br />
for at this chic new<br />
addition to the most<br />
bustling part of town.<br />
Make sure you leave<br />
room for dessert;<br />
the homemade<br />
strawberry sorbet<br />
served with shards of<br />
chocolate brownie is<br />
worth a visit in itself.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY De<br />
Balie (10 Klein<br />
Gartmanplantsoen)<br />
Nestled between the<br />
bustling Leidseplein<br />
square and the<br />
amphitheatrical Max<br />
Euweplein (home<br />
of one of the city’s<br />
popular open-air chess<br />
boards), this multilevel<br />
arts space is a great<br />
place to unwind. After<br />
a reviving coff ee you<br />
may feel ready for one<br />
of the regular in-house<br />
fi lm screenings.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
People’s Place (5<br />
Stadhouderskade,<br />
tel: 020 589 2800)<br />
Originally the canteen<br />
for the European hub<br />
of streetwear brand<br />
Tommy Hilfi ger (that’s<br />
their fl ag on the roof),<br />
this cavernous venue<br />
hosts smaller-scale<br />
gigs in conjunction<br />
with the nearby<br />
Paradiso music hall.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Café Luxenmbourg<br />
(24 Spui, tel: 020<br />
620 6264) A recent<br />
change of ownership<br />
has seen an overhaul<br />
at this wood-panelled<br />
favourite on one of the<br />
city’s most ebullient<br />
CORA<br />
KERPERMAN<br />
SHOP Find<br />
fl attering, brightlyhued<br />
womenswear<br />
at Cora Kerperman’s<br />
own-label store,<br />
which has earned<br />
praise on British<br />
television recently<br />
(72 Leidsestraat).<br />
streets. The perfect<br />
place to sample some<br />
of Amsterdam’s<br />
famous bar snacks<br />
(croquettes or<br />
bitterballen) over<br />
a refreshing beer,<br />
Luxembourg also<br />
hosts live music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Running from<br />
16–27 November, IDFA<br />
is the world’s largest<br />
and most inspiring<br />
documentary fi lm<br />
festival, showcasing<br />
talent from all around<br />
the planet. From<br />
student shorts to the<br />
work of big-hitters<br />
the food for thought<br />
comes thick and<br />
fast (idfa.nl).<br />
GO Around 70%<br />
of the world’s cacao<br />
travels through<br />
Amsterdam’s port,<br />
which is the fi fth largest<br />
in Europe. Take a walk<br />
along the waterfront<br />
for a fascinating insight<br />
into the city.<br />
ESCAPE It may lack<br />
the quainter charms<br />
of the capital, but the<br />
second biggest city in<br />
the Netherlands off ers<br />
a welcome contrast<br />
nonetheless. One of<br />
Europe’s most vibrant<br />
and multicultural<br />
destinations,<br />
Rotterdam (a short<br />
train ride) is famous for<br />
its cube houses built<br />
in the 1980s.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
A short stroll from the<br />
city’s Centraal Station,<br />
Amsterdam’s Stock<br />
Exchange is the oldest<br />
in the world.<br />
Mark Smith<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 113<br />
Antalya<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY TRY<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Bus No.202 runs<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Parlak<br />
Restaurant (Kazım<br />
Özalp Caddesi, 7<br />
Zincirli Han, tel: 0242<br />
241 9160) Sample<br />
traditional Turkish food<br />
in a quiet courtyard<br />
just outside the city<br />
walls. This place is<br />
good for lunch, but at<br />
night they fi re up the<br />
charcoal grill, adding<br />
a wider selection of<br />
barbecued dishes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Antalya Balıkevi<br />
(Caglayan Mah<br />
Eski Lara Yolu, 2061<br />
Sokak, tel: 0242 323<br />
1823) Come here for<br />
the best seafood in<br />
Antalya. Choose from<br />
an amazing variety<br />
of dishes and a good<br />
selection of wines.<br />
Add in great views<br />
over the sea from the<br />
expansive garden and<br />
you have a real treat<br />
on your hands.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Yamaç<br />
Nargile Café<br />
(Konlaaltı Cad, Atatürk<br />
Parkı, tel: 0242 248<br />
1480) With its park<br />
setting and sea views,<br />
this place is ideal<br />
for drinking Turkish<br />
coff ee over a game of<br />
backgammon and, if<br />
you smoke, sampling<br />
a traditional nargile<br />
water pipe. Other<br />
refreshments are<br />
available, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Jolly Joker Pub (10B<br />
Lider Plaza, tel: 0242<br />
316 7515) Within this<br />
crowded, excitable<br />
atmosphere, soft rock<br />
is blasted out live<br />
every night. Join the<br />
lively crowd until<br />
the early hours<br />
of the morning.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Situated 16km<br />
to the east of Antalya<br />
are the splendid<br />
antique city ruins<br />
of Perge, which was<br />
thought to be founded<br />
by survivors of the<br />
Trojan War.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The famous Arabic<br />
traveller Ibn Battuta<br />
visited Antalya<br />
between 1321–1340.<br />
He described a city<br />
divided between<br />
Christian, Jewish and<br />
Muslim inhabitants,<br />
each living in their<br />
own walled precincts.<br />
Jon Stigner
114 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Asturias<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva,<br />
London (STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Oviedo is<br />
€50; Gijón €45; and<br />
Avilés €23.<br />
The Express bus<br />
runs hourly from<br />
6am–10pm to Oviedo<br />
and Gijón. Tickets:<br />
€7.50. There are<br />
less frequent buses<br />
to Avilés (alsa.es).<br />
Tickets: €1.40.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Bajo<br />
Cero (20 Avenida de<br />
Galicia) Dine at this<br />
stylish bistro with<br />
modern décor, which<br />
serves an excellent<br />
value three-course<br />
lunchtime set menu<br />
of typical local fare.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Pondala (Dionisio<br />
Cifuentes, Somió,<br />
Gijón, tel: 985 361 160)<br />
Asturian to the bone,<br />
this award-winning<br />
restaurant’s reputation<br />
is based on a century<br />
of success. Try the<br />
house speciality, hake<br />
with clams, or its<br />
famous roast beef.<br />
<br />
<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Coctelería del Centro<br />
Niemeyer (Avenida<br />
del Zinc, Ria de Avilés,<br />
tel: 984 833 086)<br />
The top of the tower<br />
of the new Niemeyer<br />
Centre is undoubtedly<br />
the coolest place for<br />
an evening drink in<br />
Avilés. From 6pm sip<br />
an innovative Asturianinspired<br />
cocktail with<br />
impressive views.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Café Bar Bambara<br />
(9 Marqués de San<br />
Esteban, Gijón, tel:<br />
985 347 887) Siesta<br />
all day and fi esta<br />
all night: the beat<br />
goes on until 5am in<br />
Gijón’s most popular<br />
dancing venue.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Foreign visitors to<br />
Avilés this August<br />
increased by 95%<br />
compared to the same<br />
period last year and<br />
84.7% more Spanish<br />
tourists hit town.<br />
Karen Thomas<br />
AMAGÜESTU<br />
FESTIVAL<br />
SEE Don’t miss the<br />
festival held during<br />
the second and<br />
third weekends of<br />
November in Avilés.<br />
Locals celebrate<br />
autumn by roasting<br />
chestnuts in the<br />
open air.<br />
Athens<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin,<br />
Edinburgh, London<br />
(LGW), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris<br />
(ORY), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
Proastiako<br />
and metro line<br />
trains service the city.<br />
Tickets: €8 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Dafni<br />
(86 M Alexandrou,<br />
Bournazi, tel: 210 577<br />
3721) This taverna<br />
puts a modern twist<br />
on tradition and is<br />
always busy, so book<br />
in advance or be<br />
prepared to wait.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
GB Roof Garden<br />
(Syntagma Square &<br />
Panepistimiou Street,<br />
tel: 210 333 0000)<br />
On the summit of<br />
the Grande Bretagne<br />
Hotel, this has the best<br />
address and one the<br />
best views in Athens,<br />
especially if you’re<br />
seated at a table on the<br />
balcony. The fantastic<br />
food compliments<br />
the views.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Gazarte<br />
(32–34 Voutadon<br />
Street, Gazi, tel:<br />
210 346 0347) The<br />
industrial décor fi ts<br />
nicely with the view<br />
of the old gasworks<br />
funnels that dominate<br />
the nightscape from<br />
the bar and the roof<br />
beside it. The walls are<br />
lined with bookshelves<br />
carrying luxury<br />
volumes, while the<br />
lower fl oor doubles<br />
as a bookshop and<br />
reading room.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Nipiagogeio (8<br />
Kleanthous Street &<br />
Elasidon, Gazi, tel: 210<br />
345 8534) This bar<br />
has two stages: one<br />
mellow and laidback<br />
in an open courtyard<br />
at the back, and one<br />
that can pretty quickly<br />
turn electric.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Attica Park<br />
near Yalou, Spata, is<br />
a private zoological<br />
park on the outskirts<br />
of Athens that makes<br />
an ideal activity<br />
for young and old.<br />
Originally notable<br />
for its bird collection,<br />
the zoo has acquired<br />
an impressive<br />
array of large<br />
mammals, including<br />
some dolphins.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Athens is possibly<br />
the oldest city in<br />
Europe, with signs<br />
of continuous<br />
settlement dating<br />
as far back as<br />
7,000 years ago.<br />
Eva Webster<br />
Barcelona<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Dortmund,<br />
Geneva, Lisbon,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, SEN,<br />
STN), Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Newcastle<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Trains service the<br />
Sants Estació.<br />
Tickets: €2.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Buenas<br />
Migas (6 Placa<br />
Bonsucces, tel: 93 318<br />
3708) Located on a<br />
shady plaza in Raval,<br />
try out Genovese<br />
focaccias, quiches,<br />
soups and cakes at<br />
the fi rst of the Buenas<br />
Migas cafés. Started<br />
by an Italian-British<br />
duo, the café’s success<br />
means they’re now<br />
dotted all over town.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Sésamo (52 Carrer<br />
Sant Antoni Abat,<br />
tel: 93 441 6411)<br />
Something of a rarity,<br />
Sésamo is a vegetarian<br />
restaurant that boasts<br />
an avant garde sevendish<br />
tasting menu,<br />
including the likes of<br />
black cherry gazpacho,<br />
avocado tempura and<br />
roasted peach and<br />
hazel nut salad.<br />
UP TO €50 Big<br />
Fish (9 Carrer<br />
Comercial, tel: 93 268<br />
1728) Try this trendy<br />
but unpretentious<br />
restaurant nestled<br />
away in the back<br />
streets of El Born.<br />
They serve a mix of<br />
Mediterranean-style<br />
dishes, which are<br />
prepared with the<br />
fresh catch of the day<br />
and Japanese sushi.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Cinc<br />
Sentits (58 Carrer<br />
Aribau, tel: 93 323<br />
9490) Stylish Cinc<br />
Sentits matches<br />
local cuisine with<br />
international fl air.<br />
The tasting menu<br />
includes the likes of<br />
foie gras “coca” with<br />
balsamic-glazed leeks<br />
and mouthwatering<br />
Iberian suckling pig<br />
with hazelnut-glazed<br />
apple and botifarra<br />
(Catalan sausage).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cassette<br />
Bar (11 Carrer de l’Est)<br />
Head to Cassette<br />
Bar to mingle at this<br />
hipsters’ favourite in<br />
a seedy Raval side<br />
street, where you’ll<br />
fi nd trendy youngsters<br />
drinking beers and<br />
comparing body art.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Sala Monasterio (4<br />
Passeig Isabel II,
For Christmas, bring your dreams<br />
to life in PortAventura<br />
www.portaventura.com<br />
www portaventura com<br />
1 hour<br />
south of<br />
Barcelona
116 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Barcelona<br />
Spain<br />
tel: 93 319 1988)<br />
Brazilian beats,<br />
jazz, rock, techno,<br />
folk and blues are<br />
among the diverse<br />
genres that get aired<br />
at this underground<br />
live music joint near<br />
Barceloneta. Prices<br />
vary depending on<br />
the act, but most are<br />
about €10 a ticket.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Sutton Club (13<br />
Carrer Tuset, tel: 93<br />
414 4217) Pretty boys<br />
and party girls brave<br />
the queues at this posh<br />
venue in Eixample,<br />
with Thursday nights<br />
particularly popular.<br />
This is a great place if<br />
you consider yourself<br />
to be among the<br />
glitterati – and the<br />
doorman agrees.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Every<br />
Thursday, underneath<br />
the Gothic Cathedral,<br />
you’ll fi nd an antiques<br />
market that’s well<br />
worth perusing for<br />
original souvenirs.<br />
Among the mix of<br />
genuine antiques and<br />
modern accessories<br />
you’ll fi nd lace,<br />
jewellery, shawls,<br />
sepia postcards and<br />
pocket watches<br />
(1 Plaça Nova).<br />
SEE Taking place in<br />
the CCCB cultural<br />
centre, Barcelona’s<br />
L’Alternativa Film<br />
Festival’s mission is<br />
to promote new<br />
directors and<br />
original works from<br />
the world of fi lm<br />
Juliet<br />
before<br />
treatment<br />
(11–19 November,<br />
alternativa.cccb.org).<br />
GO Tibidabo means<br />
“I will give to you”<br />
in Latin, and the<br />
peak just behind<br />
Barcelona is thus<br />
named because it is<br />
(allegedly) from here<br />
that the Devil tried to<br />
lure Jesus to the dark<br />
side. Despite this, it<br />
makes a delightful<br />
day out thanks to its<br />
amusement rides and<br />
views from the top<br />
of the magnifi cent<br />
Sagrat Cor Church.<br />
ESCAPE Cadaques<br />
is a popular point of<br />
call on the Costa Brava<br />
and ticks all the boxes<br />
if a romantic coastal<br />
village is what you’re<br />
after. A favourite of<br />
Dalí and Picasso,<br />
Cadaques owes part<br />
of its charms to the<br />
“Americanos” (locals<br />
who emigrated to<br />
Cuba and came back<br />
richer) who erected<br />
beautiful and ornate<br />
townhouses here.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
If Rome is “the Eternal<br />
City” and Paris “the<br />
City of Light”, what<br />
is Barcelona? The<br />
City of Counts, no<br />
less. A one-time<br />
County established<br />
by French King Louis<br />
the Pious in 801 AD<br />
(after defeating the<br />
Arabs), Barcelona was<br />
ruled by successive<br />
Counts until Ramon<br />
Berenguer IV<br />
married into the<br />
Spanish House<br />
of Aragon in 1150.<br />
Duncan Rhodes/<br />
barcelona-life.com<br />
Bari<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Route 16 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Braceria Recchia<br />
(324 Calle da<br />
Cozzana, Monopoli,<br />
tel: 080 803 123) In<br />
this famous Monopoli<br />
eatery, diners are able<br />
to select which cut of<br />
meat they like at the<br />
table, and exactly how<br />
they like the chef to<br />
prepare it for them.<br />
They really know<br />
their meat.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Vineria (78 Via<br />
Imbriani, tel: 080<br />
558 3489) This bar is<br />
many things at once:<br />
minimalist in design<br />
yet warm and inviting.<br />
The food looks like an<br />
art installation but is<br />
simple and delicious;<br />
the wine is excellent<br />
and when the bill<br />
arrives you’ll be<br />
pleasantly surprised.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Barcollo<br />
(70 Piazza Mercantile,<br />
tel: 080 521 3889)<br />
Perfectly situated<br />
for people-watching,<br />
this comfy bar does<br />
good cocktails and<br />
tasty snacks. A good<br />
spot to lounge about<br />
on a warm evening.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Gargà (58 Via<br />
Palazzo di Città)<br />
There’s live music<br />
here on Sundays and<br />
DJs play on Friday<br />
and Saturday night.<br />
You never know<br />
quite what to expect,<br />
but then that’s<br />
half the fun.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Pinacoteca<br />
Provinciale is an art<br />
gallery well worth<br />
a visit in a land<br />
where beach culture<br />
presides. The pieces<br />
span from the 11th<br />
century right through<br />
to the 19th, although<br />
the stand-out works<br />
are the Bellini’s and<br />
Caravaggio-inspired<br />
Vaccaro’s from the<br />
17th century<br />
(27 Lungomare<br />
Nazario Sauro,<br />
tel: 080 541 2422).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Primitivo wine gets its<br />
name from a church<br />
priest from Puglia<br />
who fi rst noticed a<br />
grape variety that is<br />
ready to harvest in<br />
August, well before<br />
other varieties.<br />
Max Keep<br />
Basel/<br />
Mulhouse/<br />
Freiburg<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Barcelona, Berlin,<br />
Bordeaux, Cagliari,<br />
Copenhagen, Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio), Dresden,<br />
Düsseldorf, Edinburgh,<br />
Fuerteventura, Gran<br />
Canaria, Hamburg,<br />
Istanbul, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW), Madrid,<br />
Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Marrakech, Nantes,<br />
Naples, Nice, Olbia,<br />
Rome, Porto, Pristina,<br />
Split, Tel Aviv, Tenerife,<br />
Thessaloniki, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI A local taxi costs<br />
CHF40 to Basel<br />
and €40 to Mulhouse.<br />
Route 50 takes<br />
you to Basel’s<br />
main train station.<br />
Tickets: CHF4. Shuttles<br />
go to the station in<br />
Saint-Louis for trains to<br />
Mulhouse. Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Zum<br />
Roten Engel (15<br />
Andreasplatz, Basel,<br />
tel: 061 261 2008)<br />
Tucked away in a<br />
quaint little courtyard,<br />
Roten Engel is one<br />
of the best places<br />
in town for a hearty<br />
bowl of soup or a nice<br />
healthy breakfast.<br />
The Swiss muesli is<br />
particularly good.<br />
UP TO €30 Wistub<br />
Brenner (1 Rue<br />
Turenne, Colmar, tel: 03<br />
8941 4233) Authentic<br />
Alsatian cuisine is on<br />
off er here, from tripes<br />
au riesling to escargot<br />
and Munster cheese.<br />
There’s also a great<br />
selection of local wines.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Le Rapp (5 Rue<br />
Weinemer, Colmar, tel:<br />
03 8941 6210) Start<br />
your night by selecting<br />
your choice from the<br />
fi ne Alsatian wines on<br />
off er at Le Rapp.<br />
The menu boasts a<br />
wealth of Alsatian<br />
culinary specialities,<br />
from sauerkraut to<br />
trout and venison.<br />
The surroundings<br />
are elegant<br />
and relaxing.<br />
NATIONAL<br />
CAR MUSEUM<br />
SEE The Schlumpf<br />
collection, is<br />
certainly the world’s<br />
most impressive<br />
car museum, with<br />
more than 500 cars,<br />
from the 19th–21st<br />
centuries (15 Rue de<br />
l’Epée, Mulhouse).<br />
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with 26 weeks<br />
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0844 8001209 www.alizonne.co.uk<br />
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118 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Basel/<br />
Mulhouse/<br />
Freiburg<br />
Switzerland<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurant<br />
Schloss Bottmingen<br />
(9 Schlossgasse,<br />
Bottmingen, tel: 061<br />
421 1515) This castle<br />
surrounded by a moat<br />
is one of Basel’s most<br />
romantic spots to dine<br />
out. Takers of the fi vecourse<br />
Menu Château<br />
won’t be disappointed,<br />
with courses like<br />
Andalusian scampi and<br />
fresh apricot compote.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Charlie’s<br />
Bar (26 Rue de la<br />
Sinne, Mulhouse, tel:<br />
03 8966 1222) This<br />
bar, with authentic<br />
art-nouveau décor<br />
and piano music from<br />
1920s Paris, is the<br />
perfect place to start<br />
the evening with a glass<br />
of chilled Champagne.<br />
LIVE MUSIC The<br />
Bird’s Eye Jazz Club<br />
(20 Kohlenberg, Basel,<br />
tel: 061 263 3341)<br />
The best jazz acts<br />
from Switzerland, and<br />
many big names from<br />
all over Europe, play<br />
four or fi ve nights a<br />
week at this club sunk<br />
into the cellars<br />
of Basel’s old prison.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bar du Nord (200<br />
Schwarzwaldallee,<br />
Basel, tel: 061<br />
683 1313) Eclectic<br />
surroundings give<br />
this bar the edge<br />
over other local<br />
nightspots. Housed in<br />
the old buff et canteen<br />
at the German<br />
train station, it still<br />
has many of the<br />
original fi ttings.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The<br />
Petersplatz, in the<br />
middle of Basel<br />
University, is the place<br />
to gorge yourself on<br />
sweets, fried food,<br />
and to stock up on<br />
Christmas presents,<br />
especially if your<br />
friends like scarves,<br />
essential oils and<br />
handmade toys.<br />
GO Since 1471, the<br />
Basel Herbstmesse<br />
(Autumn Fair) has been<br />
Basel’s best autumn<br />
attraction. While the<br />
fattened pigs and<br />
prize cows have given<br />
way to roller-coasters<br />
and candy fl oss, kids<br />
and adults seem to<br />
love it, fi lling the streets<br />
for the fi rst two weeks<br />
of November.<br />
ESCAPE In that<br />
limbo between<br />
summer and ski<br />
season, it’s worth<br />
taking a trip to Bern,<br />
Switzerland’s capital.<br />
The green-stone<br />
city off ers stunning<br />
UNESCO-certifi ed<br />
street-scapes, as well<br />
as the the chance to<br />
visit the Bundeshaus,<br />
Switzerland’s<br />
parliament building<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The 1356 Basel<br />
earthquake is<br />
considered to be<br />
the most signifi cant<br />
seismological event<br />
in central Europe<br />
in recorded history.<br />
Richard Harvell<br />
Belfast<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Barcelona, Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,<br />
Krakow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN, SEN), Málaga,<br />
Malta, Manchester,<br />
Newcastle, Majorca,<br />
Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £25.<br />
The airport<br />
express takes<br />
25 minutes to the city<br />
centre. Buy onboard,<br />
tickets: £10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 The<br />
Grill Room at Ten<br />
Square (10 Donegall<br />
Square South, tel: 028<br />
9024 1001) The Grill<br />
Room is situated at<br />
the rear of the City Hall<br />
and is buzzing most<br />
nights of the week.<br />
The food is excellent<br />
and great value.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Drennans (43<br />
University Road, tel:<br />
Let’s spend the night together<br />
028 9020 4556) This<br />
large restaurant is a<br />
great place to dine on<br />
a cold winter’s night.<br />
The menu is pretty<br />
basic but the food is<br />
tasty and is largely<br />
homemade. You<br />
might even be lucky<br />
enough to catch<br />
some live music.<br />
UP TO €50 Ink<br />
Restaurant (111<br />
Newton Park, tel:<br />
028 9070 7970)<br />
This restaurant has<br />
arguably the best<br />
view in Belfast and the<br />
food is also not to be<br />
sniff ed at. It’s part of a<br />
complex of bars called<br />
The Four Winds. It’s a<br />
great place to go for a<br />
romantic meal for two.<br />
EXCLUSIVE No.27<br />
Talbot Street (27<br />
Talbot Street, tel:<br />
028 9031 2884) The<br />
Cathedral Quarter<br />
is home to a lot of<br />
Belfast’s best bars<br />
and restaurants and<br />
No.27 is at the heart of<br />
the action. It’s a bistrostyle<br />
restaurant that<br />
THE PARK<br />
AVENUE HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Promising comfort<br />
and enjoyment, this<br />
hotel is in a central<br />
location yet close<br />
to the airport.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €80, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
hostelboat berlin<br />
serves terrifi c modern<br />
cuisine. It tends to be<br />
busy at weekends so<br />
book in advance.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bittles<br />
Bar (103 Victoria<br />
Street, tel: 028<br />
9031 1088) This<br />
tiny triangular bar is<br />
situated next door to<br />
the massive Victoria<br />
Square shopping<br />
centre, but it might as<br />
well be a world away.<br />
Its walls are adorned<br />
with paintings of<br />
famous Irish artists<br />
and it has a very<br />
friendly atmosphere.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Limelight (17 Ormeau<br />
Avenue, tel: 028 9032<br />
5968) Although many<br />
live venues have come<br />
and gone over the<br />
years, the Limelight<br />
has been putting on<br />
great live music over<br />
the last couple of<br />
decades. Bands such<br />
as Blur, Oasis and the<br />
Happy Mondays all<br />
played here before<br />
they hit the big time.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Parlour<br />
(Elmwood Avenue, tel:<br />
028 9068 6970) In any<br />
city the bars and clubs<br />
close to the university<br />
are usually a safe bet<br />
if you are looking for a<br />
bit of craic. The Parlour<br />
bar is a case in point as<br />
it’s situated a stone’s<br />
throw from Queen’s.<br />
It’s busy most nights<br />
of the week and has<br />
several fl oors.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For fresh food<br />
and arts and crafts<br />
make your way to St<br />
George’s Market. The<br />
old Victorian market<br />
is packed full of<br />
interesting stalls and<br />
lots of local character<br />
every Friday, Saturday<br />
and Sunday.<br />
SEE Irish icon Christy<br />
Moore has released<br />
over 30 albums over<br />
a career spanning 40<br />
years. He will perform<br />
with Declan Sinnott<br />
on 20–21 November<br />
at Waterfront Hall.<br />
GO Head to Queen’s<br />
Quarter for a stroll<br />
around this elegant<br />
part of town. It’s<br />
chock full of great old<br />
buildings and leafy<br />
boulevards, as well as<br />
the Botanic Gardens.<br />
ESCAPE If you are<br />
heading to the northwest<br />
from Belfast<br />
why not stop off at<br />
the bustling town of<br />
Magherafelt. Around<br />
40 minutes from<br />
Belfast, it boasts loads<br />
of great shops<br />
and restaurants.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The British Museum<br />
owes much to Sir<br />
Hans Sloane, born<br />
in Killyleagh, County<br />
Down. He began<br />
collecting plants and<br />
birds’ eggs on the<br />
shores of Strangford<br />
Lough and his<br />
accumulation grew into<br />
a priceless collection<br />
that formed the<br />
nucleus of the British<br />
Museum. Sloane<br />
Square, Hans Place<br />
and a tube station were<br />
named after him.<br />
Chris Sherry/<br />
Ulster Tatler
We transfer you further.<br />
SwissTravelSystem.com<br />
Once you arrive in Switzerland, we offer regular, reliable and relaxing connections. Nationwide – with the<br />
Swiss Transfer Ticket. From the airport, all the way to your holiday destination. And back again. By rail, road<br />
or waterway. With the additional Swiss Family Card, children under 16 even travel free of charge. The Swiss<br />
Transfer Ticket cannot be purchased after arrival in Switzerland. So book now on board. For more<br />
information, check the “Transfers section of the Bistro & Boutique brochure”.<br />
Train to St. Moritz – enjoy your trip with the Swiss Transfer Ticket
120 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Berlin<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Barcelona, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Bristol,<br />
Brussels, Budapest,<br />
Cagliari, Copenhagen,<br />
Corfu, Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Naples,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Paris<br />
(ORY), Pisa, Rome,<br />
Split, Tenerife,<br />
Thessaloniki, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Berlin Welcome<br />
Card allows 72<br />
hours of travel on<br />
city transport. Buy<br />
onboard, tickets: €25.<br />
The S-Bahn train<br />
leaves from the<br />
airport. Tickets: €3.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Manouche (23<br />
Grimmstrasse) This<br />
crazy candelit cavern<br />
THE MOST FAMOUS<br />
IRISH PUB IN BERLIN<br />
cooks up generously<br />
sized savoury galettes<br />
and sweet crêpes, and<br />
some great salads.<br />
There are board games<br />
for the bored, friendly<br />
waiters, and nostalgic<br />
French tunes.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Wilson’s (Crowne<br />
Plaza Berlin City<br />
Centre, 65 Nürnberger<br />
Strasse, tel: 030 2100<br />
7991) This expansive<br />
restaurant specialises<br />
in prime rib, that<br />
delicious slow-cooked<br />
speciality made from<br />
US free-range beef,<br />
served with a plethora<br />
of well-prepared sides<br />
and salads. Expect<br />
professional service<br />
and a formidable list<br />
of American wines.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Fischers Fritz (49<br />
Charlottenstrasse,<br />
tel: 030 2033 6363)<br />
The only restaurant<br />
in Berlin with two<br />
Michelin stars,<br />
Fischers Fritz in The<br />
Regent hotel is a<br />
gourmet’s delight. True<br />
haute cuisine in lavish,<br />
classical surroundings.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Gainsbourg (5<br />
Savignyplatz, tel: 030<br />
313 7464) This tiny<br />
cocktail bar dedicated<br />
to the French pop icon<br />
Serge Gainsbourg<br />
has a reputation as<br />
a watering hole for<br />
people working in<br />
theatre and the fi lm<br />
industry. The perfect<br />
place to smoke a cigar<br />
over a whiskey.<br />
LIVE MUSIC NBI<br />
(Kulturbrauerei Centre,<br />
36 Schönhauser Allee,<br />
tel: 030 4405 1681)<br />
From Danish indie to<br />
German country to<br />
some compositions<br />
performed on a laptop,<br />
you never quite know<br />
what you’re going to<br />
get at NBI. Generally<br />
speaking, it is always<br />
a good night though.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
SO36 (190<br />
Oranienstrasse, tel:<br />
030 6140 1306)<br />
A classic, SO36<br />
arose amid the wild<br />
Kreuzberg nights of<br />
the 1980s. Monday’s<br />
Electric Ballroom night<br />
is legendary, as is the<br />
monthly gay Turkish<br />
night, Gayhane.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Berlin is famed<br />
for its numerous fl ea<br />
markets. The biggest<br />
and most popular<br />
remains the sprawling<br />
market at Mauerpark<br />
in Prenzlauer Berg,<br />
where you can clutch<br />
a hot mulled wine while<br />
browsing through<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Chipps (35<br />
Jägerstrasse, tel: 030<br />
3644 4588) This<br />
casual, stylish joint<br />
was launched last<br />
year. Don’t be misled<br />
by the name. Here a<br />
chipp is a wafer-thin<br />
potato pancake.<br />
endless piles of<br />
fashion, homeware and<br />
other random stuff .<br />
SEE The Helmut<br />
Newton Museum<br />
shows works by the<br />
Berlin-born master of<br />
fashion photography.<br />
An exhibition of<br />
Newton’s kinky<br />
experiments with<br />
Polaroid cameras in<br />
the 1970s is showing<br />
‘til 20 November<br />
(2 Jebensstrasse).<br />
GO The street<br />
between<br />
Oranienburger Strasse<br />
and Torstrasse in Mitte<br />
is home to dozens of<br />
galleries – including<br />
the charming CO<br />
Berlin photography<br />
centre (35–36<br />
Oranienburger),<br />
the infl uential KW<br />
Berlin art space (69<br />
Auguststrasse) and<br />
the neighbouring ME<br />
Collector’s Room<br />
(68 Auguststrasse).<br />
ESCAPE Teufelsberg<br />
(Devil’s Mountain), an<br />
artifi cial hill made from<br />
World War II rubble in<br />
the western Grunewald<br />
forest, is well-suited<br />
for an autumnal stroll.<br />
At the top enjoy a view<br />
over the city. There<br />
you’ll also encounter<br />
an abandoned former<br />
US military listening<br />
post from the Cold War.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Pink Floyd’s 1990 The<br />
Wall concert on the<br />
border of east and<br />
west Berlin was<br />
the only concert in<br />
history at which<br />
the stage straddled<br />
two countries.<br />
exberliner.com<br />
Biarritz<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
The STAB runs<br />
hourly from<br />
7.30am. Tickets: €1.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Bistrot<br />
Ahizpak (13 Avenue<br />
de Verdun, tel: 05 5922<br />
0926) Owned and run<br />
by three sisters, this<br />
bistro-style restaurant<br />
in the town centre<br />
off ers good French<br />
cooking without too<br />
much fuss.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Les<br />
Frères Ibarboure<br />
(Chemin de<br />
Ttaliena, Bidart,<br />
tel: 05 5954 8164)<br />
A well-established<br />
countryside inn<br />
serving delicious<br />
home-cooked meals.<br />
Specialities include<br />
lamb, fi sh and foie<br />
gras beautifully<br />
presented and<br />
served in refi ned<br />
surroundings.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Le Ponton (30<br />
Avenue de La Milady,<br />
tel: 05 5923 8303)<br />
This chilled-out bar<br />
and restaurant is<br />
set inside the Hotel<br />
le Biarritz. Large<br />
windows overlook the<br />
fantastic Côtes des<br />
Basques, making it an<br />
ideal place to come<br />
for an apéritif.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Play Boy Club (15<br />
Place Clemenceau, tel:<br />
05 5924 3846) The<br />
Play Boy nightclub is<br />
frequented by a mix<br />
of all ages looking for<br />
a party atmosphere<br />
after the other bars<br />
close. Several dance<br />
fl oors play rock, 1980s<br />
and techno music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Take a day trip<br />
across the border to<br />
the Spanish part of the<br />
Basque Country. Buses<br />
run regularly between<br />
Biarritz and San<br />
Sebastian. Stroll along<br />
La Concha beach, go<br />
window shopping in<br />
the Old Quarters of the<br />
city and enjoy some of<br />
the best tapas in the<br />
north of Spain.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 1905 Biarritz<br />
chocolate makers<br />
invented a special<br />
bon bon for visiting<br />
Russian nobility.<br />
The choco-caramel<br />
kanouga continues to<br />
be popular today and<br />
can be found in all of<br />
the best chocolate<br />
shops around the city.<br />
Steve Bilsborough
122 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Bilbao<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Ibiza, Geneva,<br />
London (STN),<br />
Manchester, Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €28.<br />
Buses go to the<br />
city every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.25.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Deustoarrak (9<br />
Avenida Madariaga,<br />
tel: 94 475 4154)<br />
One of several typical<br />
restaurants in the<br />
Deusto area of the<br />
city. Two can eat a<br />
lunchtime set meal<br />
with wine for €30.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurante Cubita<br />
(30 Carretera La<br />
Galea, tel: 94 491<br />
1700) For something<br />
a bit diff erent, visit<br />
this quaint restaurant<br />
located inside a<br />
windmill overlooking<br />
the sea. Get the metro<br />
to Bidezabal then walk<br />
along the cliff tops<br />
to work up a bit of<br />
an appetite.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Kasko<br />
(16 Calle Santa María,<br />
tel: 94 416 0311) A<br />
popular piano bar in<br />
the heart of the Old<br />
Quarters. It opens at<br />
about midnight as<br />
a bar, but operates<br />
as a restaurant<br />
during the day.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Brick (29 Calle Elcano,<br />
tel: 94 444 8970)<br />
Music from the 1980s,<br />
a friendly atmosphere,<br />
an interesting cocktail<br />
menu and a good<br />
choice of food make<br />
this venue hugely<br />
popular with a<br />
thirtysomething<br />
crowd of revelers.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Catch one of<br />
the fi lms showing<br />
at the international<br />
festival of<br />
documentary and<br />
short fi lm of Bilbao.<br />
Held from 11–19<br />
November at the<br />
Arriaga Theatre<br />
and other venues<br />
throughout the city,<br />
the Zinebi festival<br />
has been attracting<br />
crowds since 1959.<br />
A great opportunity<br />
to do something<br />
a bit diff erent.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although you are<br />
travelling to Bilbao,<br />
don’t be surprised to<br />
see signs for “Bilbo”.<br />
This is the Basque<br />
word for Bilbao.<br />
Most signs for<br />
streets and towns<br />
names are written<br />
in both languages.<br />
Katherine Bilsborough<br />
Bologna<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
The Aerobus<br />
runs every 15<br />
minutes. Tickets: €5<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Trattoria Boni (22–23<br />
Via Don Luigi Sturzo,<br />
tel: 051 615 4337)<br />
One of Bologna’s<br />
longest established<br />
trattorias, family-run<br />
Boni is worth the<br />
short trip out of the<br />
centre for its delicious<br />
home cooking<br />
and welcoming<br />
atmosphere.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Diana<br />
(24 Via Indipendenza,<br />
tel: 051 231 302)<br />
Dating from the<br />
1920s, this famous<br />
restaurant in the city’s<br />
central shopping<br />
street maintains an<br />
atmosphere of times<br />
gone by. The menu<br />
is full of authentic<br />
local recipes such<br />
as tortellini in brodo<br />
(broth) and lasagne.<br />
Whatever you order,<br />
be ready to enjoy<br />
a memorable meal.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Birreria<br />
del Pratello (24A Via<br />
del Pratello, tel: 051<br />
238 249) One of a<br />
dozen or so bars and<br />
restaurants in this<br />
picturesque cobbled<br />
street, the beer-house<br />
stays open till 3am<br />
providing a relaxing<br />
environment and<br />
plenty of good beer.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kinki (1 Via Zamboni,<br />
tel: 051 266 028)<br />
Just 20m from the<br />
landmark towers in<br />
central Bologna, this<br />
well-established club<br />
never goes out of<br />
fashion. Join students<br />
and locals here to<br />
party the night away.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Top-name bands<br />
performing at the<br />
Bologna Jazz Festival<br />
this November include<br />
The Manhattan<br />
Transfer and the<br />
Pat Metheny Trio<br />
(9–19 November,<br />
festivaljazzbologna.it).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Centuries ago Bologna<br />
was criss-crossed by<br />
a complex network<br />
of canals. They’ve<br />
since been covered<br />
over but you can still<br />
catch glimpses of<br />
the waterways from<br />
various spots around<br />
town – seek out the<br />
window in Via Piella.<br />
Sarah Lane<br />
Bordeaux<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Bristol, Geneva,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Line 1 Bus goes<br />
to Place des<br />
Quinconces every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le Petit<br />
Commerce (22 Rue<br />
Parlement St Pierre,<br />
tel: 05 5679 7658)<br />
Try eating out at this<br />
low-key fi sh restaurant<br />
in the lively St Pierre<br />
district, which serves<br />
specialities such as<br />
stuff ed crab, fresh<br />
turbot and crevettes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Chez<br />
Tonino (209 Rue<br />
Fondaudège, tel: 09<br />
5287 7341) A short<br />
stroll from the centre,<br />
but well worth the<br />
eff ort, Chez Tonino<br />
wine shop doubles as<br />
an oyster bar. There’s<br />
a wide selection of<br />
excellent wines from<br />
the local region and<br />
further afi eld as well.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Café Brun (45 Rue<br />
Saint Remi) With a<br />
relaxed atmosphere<br />
and welcoming staff ,<br />
Café Brun is a great<br />
after-dinner spot. It’s<br />
the perfect place to<br />
congregate with<br />
a group of friends.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The seventh Art<br />
Chartrons exhibition<br />
is on from 10–20<br />
November when<br />
artists exhibit their<br />
work free of charge<br />
at 27 diff erent points<br />
across the city (artschartrons.info).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Bordeaux belonged<br />
to the English for 301<br />
years following the<br />
marriage of Eleanor<br />
of Aquitaine to King<br />
Henry II in 1152.<br />
Caroline Matthews<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Le Gabriel (10 Place<br />
de la Bourse, tel: 05<br />
5630 0080) From its<br />
stunning location, Le<br />
Gabriel is where chef<br />
François Adamski is<br />
at his most creative,<br />
producing classical<br />
but original dishes.<br />
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124 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Brest<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Buses stop at<br />
Saint Luc and<br />
the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €5.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Creperie Ble Noir<br />
(Vallon du Strang-<br />
Alar, tel: 02 9841<br />
8466) One of the<br />
oldest pancake<br />
shops in Brest, this<br />
place specialises in<br />
savoury crêpes<br />
made from dark<br />
hardwheat fl our.<br />
Try the rustique:<br />
goat’s cheese and<br />
shallots in cider.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Kube (2 Rue de la<br />
2e DB, tel: 02 9844<br />
0010) Modern<br />
décor, banquette<br />
seating and a relaxed<br />
atmosphere sets off<br />
the menu perfectly.<br />
Try the steak with foie<br />
gras or opt for one of<br />
their gourmet salads.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Aux<br />
Quatre Vents (18<br />
Quai de la Douanne,<br />
tel: 02 9844 4284)<br />
Shells, ropes, bare<br />
wood: this port bar<br />
is amazingly<br />
un-touristy and the<br />
regulars are real<br />
characters. A great<br />
place to listen to tall<br />
tales and watch the<br />
world go by while<br />
you work your<br />
way through the<br />
whisky list.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
La Villa (Le Relais,<br />
Guipavas, tel: 02<br />
9884 6189) Take a<br />
taxi to this club and<br />
you can get it for free.<br />
Non-drinkers get<br />
cheap entrance plus<br />
unlimited soft drinks<br />
are on the house. It’s<br />
only open on Friday<br />
and Saturday<br />
nights, though.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Salon<br />
des Vins et de la<br />
Gastronomie at the<br />
Park de Penfeld runs<br />
from 11–14 November<br />
and is a paradise<br />
for foodies (and<br />
drinkies). Tastings,<br />
demonstrations,<br />
stalls, a bar, and<br />
a restaurant are<br />
all on off er.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The city of Brest was<br />
almost completely<br />
destroyed during<br />
World War II as the<br />
Allies were attempting<br />
to bomb the German’s<br />
submarine fl eet, which<br />
was based there.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Brindisi<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Local STP buses<br />
leave every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Trattoria da Vito<br />
(72–76 Corso<br />
Garibaldi, tel: 0831<br />
564 214) A must<br />
for the serious fi sh<br />
lovers among you.<br />
Try the schiuma di<br />
mare (foam of the<br />
sea) a mass of tiny<br />
lemony fi sh. There are<br />
also plenty of other<br />
delights from the<br />
nearby sea. Delicious.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Il Giardino della<br />
Signora (Contrada<br />
Fedele Grande,<br />
Ceglie Messapica, tel:<br />
0831 381 361) In the<br />
lavish grounds of the<br />
Masseria Pisciacalze,<br />
this sophisticated<br />
restaurant serves<br />
both meat and<br />
fi sh and has a<br />
good selection of<br />
antipasti. Locally<br />
recommended.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Pub<br />
Aragonese (97 Viale<br />
Regina Margherita)<br />
On the waterfront is<br />
this comfy bar with<br />
leather armchairs<br />
and nice lighting. It’s<br />
a bit off the beaten<br />
track but worth it<br />
once you are there.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Big Ben (14 Via<br />
Carmine) If any<br />
Londoners get<br />
homesick they can<br />
go for a pint here.<br />
Actually a fun and<br />
popular place for a<br />
beer and to see an<br />
Italian version of an<br />
English pub.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Take a boat<br />
trip to the Monument<br />
for fallen Sailors.<br />
This Mussolini-built<br />
war memorial is<br />
situated on the bay<br />
and the trip gives you<br />
a completely diff erent<br />
view of Brindisi<br />
(boats leave from<br />
Brindisi harbour).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
A stag’s head is a<br />
popular symbol<br />
in Brindisi and<br />
comes from the<br />
latin “brundisium”<br />
– meaning “stag’s<br />
head” in Greek<br />
dialect. This comes<br />
from the shape of the<br />
harbour and you’ll<br />
see the stag on the<br />
Brindisi coat of arms.<br />
Max Keep<br />
Sitting S comfortably?<br />
Bristol<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bodrum,<br />
Bordeaux, Corfu,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Cyprus (Paphos),<br />
Dalaman, Edinburgh,<br />
Faro, Fuerteventura,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Grenoble, Ibiza,<br />
Innsbruck, Inverness,<br />
Krakow, La Rochelle,<br />
Lisbon, Lyon, Madeira,<br />
Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Marseille,<br />
Menorca, Murcia,<br />
Naples, Newcastle,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Paris<br />
(CDG), Pisa, Prague,<br />
Rome, Salzburg, Split,<br />
Tenerife, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £26.<br />
The Bristol<br />
Airport Flyer runs<br />
a service between<br />
2.30am–00.45am<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: £7 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Pieminister (Glass<br />
advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
Arcade, St Nicholas<br />
Market, tel: 0117 302<br />
0070) Pieminister is a<br />
pie-making company<br />
with a passion for<br />
locally reared produce.<br />
Try the chicken of<br />
aragon pie, moo<br />
& blue pie or the<br />
vegetarian heidi pie.<br />
UP TO €30 Raj Bari<br />
(183 Hotwell Road, tel:<br />
0117 922 7617) One<br />
of the fi nest Indian<br />
restaurants in the<br />
city, Raj Bari off ers a<br />
relaxed atmosphere in<br />
a stylish setting. Each<br />
tasty dish is made<br />
from freshly prepared<br />
spices, creating the<br />
best curry in town.<br />
UP TO €50 The<br />
River Grille (The<br />
Bristol Hotel, Prince<br />
Street, tel: 0117 923<br />
0333) If you’re looking<br />
to dine in vibrant<br />
surroundings and<br />
indulge in fi ne West<br />
Country ingredients,<br />
then relax in The River<br />
Grille. Overlooking<br />
the Harbourside, the<br />
restaurant changes its<br />
THE GRAND<br />
THISTLE<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
In a convenient and<br />
central location, The<br />
Grand is a modern<br />
hotel housed in an<br />
impressive Victorian<br />
building. From<br />
€68, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Imagine over<br />
5 million people looking<br />
at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />
Make ppart<br />
of your plan today<br />
150x28 (5 MILLION) 14.10.11.indd 1 14/10/<strong>2011</strong> 15:01<br />
TAXI
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
menu regularly<br />
to refl ect the best<br />
in seasonal and<br />
local produce.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Moreton’s<br />
Restaurant (Tortworth<br />
Court Hotel, Tortworth,<br />
Wotton-under-Edge,<br />
tel: 0145 426 3000) In<br />
a nutshell, Moreton’s<br />
is swish. Step out in<br />
style and dine within<br />
grand surroundings in<br />
the oak-panelled library<br />
at this country house.<br />
The Tortworth Estate<br />
fi llet steak is highly<br />
recommended.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY WooWoo<br />
(South Buildings,<br />
Harbourside, tel: 0845<br />
293 2860) Kick-start<br />
your night out with<br />
a selection of fi ne<br />
cocktails and a cool<br />
ambience in WooWoo,<br />
in association with<br />
Oceana. Open from<br />
5pm seven nights<br />
a week, WooWoo<br />
off ers two-for-one on<br />
cocktails all night.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Mr<br />
Wolf’s (33 St Stephens<br />
Street, tel: 0117 927<br />
3221) Providing a<br />
platform for Bristol’s<br />
most exciting acts<br />
on the gig circuit, Mr<br />
Wolf’s has established<br />
itself as one of the<br />
city’s premier live<br />
music venues.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Start The Bus (7–9<br />
Baldwin Street) Head<br />
to Start The Bus for an<br />
eclectic mix of music<br />
every night from local<br />
DJs. The walls display<br />
work from local artists<br />
and the venue is open<br />
until 1am during the<br />
week and later at<br />
the weekends.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP From 11<br />
November, Bristol’s<br />
shopping area will<br />
be lit up with festive<br />
lights, activities and<br />
markets. The quaint<br />
wooden chalet-style<br />
stalls will off er unique<br />
gift ideas, original<br />
handmade crafts and<br />
decorative items.<br />
SEE Bristol and West:<br />
Photography by Martin<br />
Parr is a free exhibition<br />
at Bristol’s newest<br />
museum, the M Shed,<br />
until 27 November. The<br />
collection contains<br />
an eclectic mix of<br />
photographs from<br />
Martin Parr’s<br />
30-year career.<br />
GO Head to the<br />
centre of Bristol where<br />
a new art phenomenon<br />
has taken over a whole<br />
street. The See No Evil<br />
project has resulted in<br />
Bristol’s Nelson Street<br />
becoming one of<br />
the world’s largest<br />
outdoor art exhibitions<br />
and it’s free.<br />
ESCAPE Enjoy a<br />
leisurely stroll to<br />
Cabot Tower, the<br />
century-old 32m-high<br />
tower that sits at the<br />
top of Brandon Hill<br />
and off ers panoramic<br />
views of Bristol.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Chocolate has an<br />
important role to play<br />
in Bristol. Joseph Fry<br />
of Fry’s Chocolate<br />
opened a sweet shop<br />
in Small Street in 1756.<br />
Anna Slade<br />
Brussels<br />
Belgium<br />
DIALLING CODE +32<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Geneva,<br />
Liverpool, Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Nice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Trains depart<br />
every 15 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €5 single.<br />
Visit the<br />
Europcar desk for<br />
special easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Le Pain<br />
Quotidien (16 Rue<br />
Antoine Dansaert, tel:<br />
02 502 2361) This is<br />
always a great place<br />
for brunch. Sit around<br />
a communal table and<br />
order an assortment<br />
of pastries. This<br />
particular branch is<br />
the fi rst one that Alain<br />
Coumont opened in<br />
1990. His objective was<br />
to open a place that<br />
makes organic bread in<br />
a traditional way.<br />
UP TO €30 Bozar<br />
Brasserie (Palais des<br />
Beaux-Arts, Rue Baron<br />
Horta, tel: 02 503<br />
0000) With a fantastic<br />
art nouveau interior,<br />
the menu of the<br />
recently restored Fine<br />
Art Museum restaurant<br />
off ers many Franco-<br />
Belgian temptations<br />
from crisp North Sea<br />
shrimp croquettes<br />
to rich rice pudding<br />
dusted with cinnamon.<br />
UP TO €50 L’Idiot<br />
du Village (19 Rue<br />
Notre-Seigneur, tel: 02<br />
502 5582) The warm<br />
dining rooms, one red<br />
and the other blue,<br />
look like the baroque<br />
attic of a country<br />
chateau with antique<br />
tables and funky<br />
chandeliers. There are<br />
only 35 places so book<br />
early if you want to<br />
indulge in anchovies<br />
in a garlic mousse.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Comme Chez Soi<br />
(23 Place Rouppe, tel:<br />
02 512 2921) One of<br />
the top restaurants in<br />
town with two Michelin<br />
stars to its name and<br />
a wine cellar of repute,<br />
the extensive menu<br />
is slightly longer than<br />
the guest list, which<br />
features royalty,<br />
top Eurocrats and<br />
celebrities. The six- or<br />
seven-course tasting<br />
menu off ers oyster<br />
and pigeon and a<br />
coulis of velvet crab.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La Fleur<br />
en Papier Doré (53<br />
Rue des Alexiens, tel:<br />
02 511 1659) René<br />
Magritte’s former<br />
local, the suitably<br />
surrealist yet cosy<br />
décor has little<br />
changed since he last<br />
downed a drink here<br />
in the 1960s. Not far<br />
from the Grand Place<br />
it has a bewildering list<br />
WHETHER LAST MINUTE OR PEAK SEASON, WE ALWAYS<br />
GUARANTEE AVAILABILITY WHEN YOU BOOK ONLINE.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 125<br />
of very strong bottled<br />
and draught beers.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Madame Moustache<br />
(5–7 Quai au Bois à<br />
Brûler, tel: 04 8553<br />
4494) The mindblowing<br />
interiors,<br />
including a 1920s<br />
fairground set and an<br />
American diner, are as<br />
varied as the sounds<br />
here. The young and<br />
the not so young dance<br />
the night away to the<br />
latest funk, Balkan beat<br />
and rock ‘n roll.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Marquee (20–22<br />
Rue St Anne, Sablon)<br />
This place is packed<br />
out on Friday and<br />
Saturday nights with<br />
the trendiest folk of<br />
the super-chic Sablon<br />
quarter dancing on<br />
three fl oors to house,<br />
electro, indie plus<br />
much more.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP From 26<br />
November head to the<br />
Marché aux Poissons<br />
(Sainte Catherine) for<br />
THE EUROSTARS<br />
GRAND PALACE<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Close to the city’s<br />
historical and<br />
commercial centres,<br />
the hotel is perfect<br />
for all types of stay.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €109, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
the Christmas Market.<br />
The 19th-century<br />
square is packed<br />
with more than 230<br />
stalls, selling frites and<br />
mulled wine to keep<br />
the autumn chill at bay.<br />
SEE Keep up with<br />
culture every Thursday<br />
night when fi ve top<br />
museums in the<br />
capital stay open until<br />
10pm, with specialist<br />
workshops, tours and<br />
guided visits (brussels<br />
museumsnocturnes.<br />
be). Alternatively, the<br />
Skoda Jazz Festival<br />
runs throughout the<br />
month, and has a starstudded<br />
international<br />
cast (skodajazz.be).<br />
GO Châtelain is a<br />
smart quarter that<br />
boasts prosperous<br />
terraced houses set<br />
around leafy squares<br />
with many small<br />
shops and friendly<br />
bars. On Wednesday<br />
nights have a glass of<br />
wine at the market in<br />
Place du Châtelain,<br />
which is the best place<br />
to get organic food,<br />
handmade chocolates<br />
and delicious pastries.<br />
ESCAPE Take a<br />
30-minute ride on the<br />
No.44 tram to Tervuren<br />
and the Colonial Palace<br />
of the Royal Museum<br />
of Africa. The palace<br />
was built by King<br />
Leopold II in 1897 to<br />
show off his treasures<br />
and trophies from the<br />
Belgian Congo.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
With so many<br />
parks and forests,<br />
Brussels is Europe’s<br />
greenest capital.<br />
Nick Haslam<br />
Europcar guarantees easyJet<br />
passengers great car rental deals.<br />
For your discounted price book<br />
at easyJet.com or visit the<br />
Europcar desk.
126 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Bucharest<br />
Romania<br />
DIALLING CODE +40<br />
CURRENCY Leu (RON)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to the centre<br />
is about RON100.<br />
Bus 783 leaves<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: RON7 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Caru<br />
cu Bere (3–5 Strada<br />
Stavropoleos, tel: 021<br />
313 7560) Gorgeous<br />
interiors and a<br />
century-long history<br />
make this the most<br />
visited restaurant in<br />
the city. The food is<br />
classical Romanian<br />
– try the sarmale<br />
(stuff ed cabbage<br />
leaves) followed by<br />
a tasty baked apple.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Escargot Bistro<br />
(101 Strada Toamnei,<br />
tel: 021 201 7133)<br />
Easily the best<br />
French restaurant<br />
in Bucharest. The<br />
pot-roasted duck is<br />
wonderfully tender,<br />
the staff are friendly,<br />
<br />
<br />
and the whole<br />
experience is one big,<br />
happy, gastronomic<br />
adventure.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Atelier<br />
Mecanic (12 Strada<br />
Covaci, tel: 0726<br />
767 611) On one of<br />
the quieter streets<br />
in the Old Town, this<br />
place gets livelier<br />
as the evening wears<br />
on, transforming<br />
from Parisian café<br />
to sophisticated<br />
cocktail bar. There’s<br />
a DJ at weekends<br />
spinning tunes for<br />
a crowd of casually<br />
dressed locals.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
True Club (Splaiul<br />
Independentei) This<br />
popular venue has<br />
live music (of all<br />
kinds) every night,<br />
while also hosting<br />
one of the rowdiest,<br />
most fun karaoke<br />
sessions in the city.<br />
The crowd is young<br />
and a bit more<br />
style-conscious<br />
than in other<br />
places in the area.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Don’t miss the<br />
new-look Natural<br />
History Museum at<br />
Piata Victoriei. It’s<br />
now one of the best<br />
of its kind in Europe.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Bucharest is entirely<br />
surrounded by a<br />
ring of (sadly long<br />
abandoned) 19thcentury<br />
forts, built<br />
to defend the city in<br />
case of attack.<br />
Craig Turp<br />
Budapest<br />
Hungary<br />
DIALLING CODE +36<br />
CURRENCY Forint (HUF)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin,<br />
Dortmund, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
HUF3,500–HUF5,400.<br />
Trains leave<br />
Terminal 1 for<br />
Western station.<br />
Tickets: HUF455.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Centrál<br />
Kávéház (9 Károly<br />
Mihály Utca, V, tel: 266<br />
2110) This gorgeously<br />
restored coff eehouse<br />
has a strong literary<br />
pedigree. It not only<br />
serves great coff ee and<br />
sweets, but has a full<br />
menu with a bargainpriced<br />
lunch special.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Babel<br />
Delikát Étterem<br />
(1 Szarka Utca, tel:<br />
338 2143) Most<br />
restaurants on the Váci<br />
Utca shopping strip<br />
are tourist traps, but<br />
Babel is the exception.<br />
Only open for dinner,<br />
meals can be ordered<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
á la carte, but ordering<br />
a tasting menu (with<br />
wine pairings) is the<br />
way to go.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Farger<br />
Cafe (18 Zoltán<br />
Utca) After exploring<br />
Szabadság tér, pay<br />
a visit to the lovely<br />
Café Farger and<br />
sample a coff ee, tasty<br />
snack or drink.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Csendes (5 Ferenczy<br />
Itsvn Utca) The décor<br />
at this funky, smokefi<br />
lled bar could occupy<br />
your eyes for hours.<br />
Walls are covered with<br />
random toys, salvaged<br />
junk, furniture, bicycles<br />
and more. Drinks<br />
are inexpensive.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Budapest’s Great<br />
Synagogue, also<br />
known as Dohány<br />
Street Synagogue, is<br />
the largest in Europe<br />
and the secondlargest<br />
in the world.<br />
Carolyn Bánfalvi<br />
GOZSDU<br />
MARKET<br />
GO Every Sunday<br />
between 10am–7pm<br />
the seven courtyards<br />
inside the Gozsdu<br />
Udvar complex<br />
fi ll with jewellers,<br />
booksellers, and<br />
other traders<br />
(gouba.hu).<br />
Cagliari<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Geneva,<br />
London (STN), Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJetcom.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
ARST buses<br />
to the city<br />
centre leave every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €5.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Da<br />
Valerio (9 Via Eleonora<br />
D’Arborea, tel: 342<br />
162 3573) Young and<br />
committed owner<br />
Valerio has opened up<br />
this new pizzeria near<br />
the centre of Cagliari,<br />
off ering tasty pizzas<br />
and meat dishes at<br />
competitive prices.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Peccato di Gola in<br />
Mare (Molo S Elmo,<br />
Calata dei Trinitari, tel:<br />
340 565 6797) This<br />
is a restaurant inside<br />
a boat at the marina,<br />
which was once used<br />
to transport prisoners<br />
to the old prison island<br />
Isola dell’Asinara. But<br />
it’s not just about the<br />
location; the good<br />
cooking makes this<br />
restaurant worth a visit.<br />
There are plenty of<br />
tasty seafood options.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Barcellona (84 Via<br />
Barcellona, tel: 070<br />
858 3850) Run by<br />
the Mascia family<br />
since 1949, the Café<br />
Barcellona is a relaxed<br />
meeting point for<br />
people in the marina<br />
quarter near the port<br />
of Cagliari.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Charlie Disco Club<br />
(Via dei Carroz) This<br />
large late-night venue<br />
has three dancefl oors<br />
playing diff erent kinds<br />
of popular music,<br />
so you’re bound to<br />
fi nd something you<br />
want to dance to. It<br />
gets very busy at the<br />
weekend and attracts<br />
a lively crowd of<br />
twentysomethings.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Cagliari’s<br />
medieval defence<br />
towers are a<br />
spectacular sight<br />
by day or night,<br />
surrounded by little<br />
bars and cafés in<br />
which you can sit back<br />
and take in the view.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Italy’s oldest tree<br />
stands on Sardinia,<br />
near the village of<br />
Luras. Estimated at<br />
3,000–4,000 years<br />
old, it might even<br />
be the oldest tree<br />
in Europe.<br />
Dario Henke
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Casablanca<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
Just<br />
Dessert<br />
A SUGAR-COATED<br />
GUIDE TO AMSTERDAM’S<br />
BEST SWEET TREATS<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A taxi costs MAD250.<br />
Trains depart<br />
every hour<br />
to Casa Voyageur.<br />
Tickets: MAD60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Fresh<br />
& Co (2 Rue Théophile<br />
Gautier, tel: 0522 260<br />
081) A selection of<br />
sumptuous, tastefully<br />
composed salads,<br />
sandwiches, wraps<br />
and quiches, the<br />
organic-rich menu<br />
caters for both the<br />
greedy and the health<br />
conscious. Prices are<br />
oh-so-reasonable, and<br />
ingredients top quality.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Ocean<br />
View Cabestan (90<br />
Route de la Corniche,<br />
tel: 0522 391 190)<br />
Book a table at this<br />
gorgeous seafood<br />
restaurant, which has<br />
been popular since<br />
opening in 1965. With<br />
Where to fi nd early snow<br />
Party like it’s 1969 in Berlin<br />
Art at the Hadron Collider<br />
Our network’s best Xmas gifts<br />
An ode to Thessaloniki<br />
NOVEMBER <strong>2011</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />
001 Cover Final.indd 1 13/10/<strong>2011</strong> 08:52<br />
jaw-dropping views,<br />
mouth-watering<br />
dishes and welcoming<br />
hospitality, diners<br />
come back time and<br />
time again.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Trica (5<br />
Rue Moutanabbi, tel:<br />
0522 491 565) Inspired<br />
by New York’s Tribeca<br />
area, the trendy Trica<br />
restaurant has a very<br />
popular stand-up bar,<br />
which is the perfect<br />
hangout for preclubbing<br />
drinks or just<br />
meeting with friends.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Urban Villa (Royal<br />
Club Equestre d’Anfa,<br />
Ain Diab) At Urban Villa<br />
you can start early at<br />
the pool tables, then<br />
graduate to the bar and<br />
fi nally the dancefl oor,<br />
where there’s often<br />
live music playing.<br />
The edgy décor and<br />
smiley people keep this<br />
a lively yet down-toearth<br />
option.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Admire the French<br />
art deco architecture<br />
while strolling the<br />
city centre. Many<br />
buildings are in need<br />
of repair, but you<br />
can still appreciate<br />
their beauty.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Romans were<br />
producing wines in<br />
Morocco centuries<br />
ago, and the tradition<br />
continues. Weather<br />
conditions and soil<br />
quality in the Meknes<br />
region make its wines<br />
particularly delicious.<br />
Cara Warkentin<br />
Catania<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London<br />
(LGW)Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 457 leaves<br />
every 20 minutes<br />
stopping in the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.50.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Ristorante Fratelli<br />
La Bufala (24 Via<br />
Giacomo Puccini, tel:<br />
095 313 105) This<br />
is one of the many<br />
restaurants and<br />
pizzerias recently<br />
opened all over Italy by<br />
La Bufala brothers, an<br />
old Neapolitan family.<br />
Advice: do not miss the<br />
superb antipasti.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Taverna dei Conti<br />
(43 Via Guglielmo<br />
Oberdan, tel: 095<br />
310 035) This is a<br />
tiny restaurant with a<br />
great reputation in the<br />
city. Expect amazing<br />
fi sh and seafood<br />
dishes and friendly,<br />
knowledgeable<br />
staff . Local wines<br />
are available.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Platania<br />
Bar e Caff è (58 Via<br />
Cifali, tel: 095 439<br />
627) A family-run bar,<br />
Platania off ers indoor<br />
and outdoor seating.<br />
Delicious ice cream<br />
is available. If you are<br />
hungry, don’t<br />
miss the special<br />
weekend sandwiches.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Mithical’s (4 Via Gulli)<br />
Elegant and bizarre,<br />
this is the newest pub<br />
in the city. It off ers a<br />
young atmosphere and<br />
a great environment.<br />
Open until late on<br />
weekends; live music<br />
on Saturdays.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The city of<br />
Taormina is an ancient<br />
Greek city, and the<br />
most famous Sicilian<br />
spot for foreigners.<br />
Come to admire<br />
historical buildings,<br />
archeological sites and<br />
a panorama to the sea<br />
and to Mount Etna.<br />
Alessandro Di Maio<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Palermo Football<br />
Team is to get a<br />
new stadium. The<br />
structure will host<br />
more than 35,000<br />
people. It will be the<br />
most expensive<br />
stadium in Italy,<br />
at a cost of €2m!<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 127<br />
Cologne<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Edinburgh,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A taxi to Cologne is<br />
€25 and €40 to Bonn.<br />
S-bahn trains take<br />
you to Cologne.<br />
Tickets: €2.50.<br />
For Bonn, the<br />
bus leaves every<br />
30 minutes to one<br />
hour. Tickets: €7.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Bei<br />
Oma Kleinmann (9<br />
Zülpicher Strasse,<br />
tel: 0221 232 346)<br />
Named for the<br />
legendary woman<br />
who ran it for decades,<br />
Bei Oma Kleinmann,<br />
is a stalwart of the<br />
studenty Kwartier<br />
Lateng and one of<br />
the best places to eat<br />
schnitzel in Cologne.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Vision (2 Kaygasse, tel:<br />
0221 20080) Classic<br />
gourmet cooking<br />
comes with a side<br />
order of spectacular<br />
views at La Vision, on<br />
the 11th fl oor of the<br />
Hotel Wasserturm in a<br />
converted water tower.<br />
Are you interested in advertising to<br />
5m passengers per month?<br />
Please contact our advertising sales team<br />
on +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Klimperkasten<br />
(50–52 Alter Markt,<br />
tel: 0221 258 2132)<br />
The world’s fi rst<br />
self-playing tuba and<br />
accordion orchestra,<br />
a collection of historic<br />
games machines, and<br />
décor reminiscent<br />
of the roaring 1920s<br />
make Klimperkasten<br />
a genuine one-off in<br />
Cologne’s Old Town.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Underground<br />
Cologne (200<br />
Vogelsängerstrasse,<br />
Ehrenfeld, tel: 0221<br />
9542 9910) The<br />
gloriously grungy<br />
Underground is a<br />
legendary live venue<br />
specialising in rock<br />
and punk, but it’s also<br />
a club venue with DJs<br />
spinning everything<br />
from rap to indie or<br />
drum ‘n’ bass.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Four free shuttle<br />
buses and one historic<br />
train zip between<br />
the 40-odd venues<br />
participating in<br />
Cologne’s Long Night<br />
of the Museums on 5<br />
November, when the<br />
city’s cultural hotspots<br />
will be swinging<br />
into the early hours<br />
(museumsnachtkoeln.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Cologne is Germany’s<br />
television metropolis,<br />
with a bigger<br />
concentration of<br />
broadcasters than<br />
anywhere else in<br />
the country.<br />
Neville Walker<br />
00000 EasyJet Sales 5mil Banner.indd 1 17/10/<strong>2011</strong> 16:17<br />
TAXI
128 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Denmark<br />
DIALLING CODE +45<br />
CURRENCY Krone (DKK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW,<br />
STN), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your<br />
taxi at easyJet.<br />
com. A local taxi<br />
costs DKK220.<br />
Metro trains go to<br />
Nørreport station.<br />
Tickets: DKK35.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Jo & The<br />
Juice (12 Nørregade)<br />
Hugely popular Danish<br />
chain where young<br />
trendy barmen serve<br />
up juices, smoothies,<br />
coff ee and toasted<br />
sandwiches to<br />
pumping tunes.<br />
UP TO €30 BioMio<br />
(19 Halmtorvet, tel:<br />
3331 2000) Laidback,<br />
eco-friendly café in<br />
the meat packing<br />
district off ering a wide<br />
selection of healthy<br />
dishes from soups<br />
and dips, to salads<br />
and curries.<br />
UP TO €50 Lê<br />
Lê Nhà Hàng (56<br />
<br />
Vesterbrogade, tel:<br />
3322 7135) Authentic<br />
Saigon-style<br />
Vietnamese food<br />
served in a modern,<br />
trendy Vesterbro<br />
restaurant that’s<br />
always busy. Get there<br />
early for a pre-dinner<br />
cocktail – the mango<br />
em oi is delicious –<br />
and then either share<br />
a set meal or order<br />
from the extensive<br />
á la carte menu.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Krogs<br />
Fiskerestaurant<br />
(38 Gammel Strand,<br />
tel: 3315 8915)<br />
Copenhagen’s oldest<br />
fi sh restaurant was<br />
established in 1910<br />
on Gammel Strand,<br />
the site of the city’s<br />
old fi sh market, which<br />
now enjoys views<br />
across the canal to the<br />
Parliament building.<br />
Earlier this year chef<br />
Boris Buono took<br />
the helm, combining<br />
classic dishes that<br />
have been on the<br />
menu for decades<br />
with modern seasonal<br />
ORDRUPGAARD<br />
GALLERY<br />
ESCAPE Tucked<br />
away in suburban<br />
Charlottenlund, north<br />
of the city, you’ll fi nd<br />
Ordrupgaard, an art<br />
gallery housed in the<br />
early 20th-century<br />
home of the founder<br />
Wilhelm Hansen.<br />
dishes such as the<br />
delicious black lobster,<br />
Danish tenderloin and<br />
truffl e combo. Set<br />
menus are available<br />
with accompanying<br />
wines by the glass.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Ricco’s<br />
(119 Istedgqde, tel:<br />
3312 1106) This<br />
small chain of hip<br />
coff ee shops founded<br />
by Ricco Harder<br />
Sorensen provide<br />
a great option for a<br />
steaming Americano<br />
or a devilishly rich hot<br />
chocolate after an<br />
afternoon in the brisk<br />
autumn air.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Global<br />
(7 Norre Alle) As the<br />
name suggests this<br />
small venue plays<br />
a variety of world<br />
music from folk<br />
and desert blues to<br />
rumba and reggae.<br />
On club nights when<br />
dancing becomes<br />
a prerogative, more<br />
mainstream hip hop<br />
and electronic tunes<br />
are played by local<br />
musicians and DJs.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Falernum (16<br />
Værnedamsvej, tel:<br />
3322 3089) One of<br />
the best wine bars<br />
in Copenhagen, the<br />
long wooden tables at<br />
Falernum stay packed<br />
until 2am on Fridays<br />
and Saturdays with<br />
fashionable Danes<br />
gossiping over tapas<br />
and wine.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Royal<br />
Copenhagen has<br />
been producing<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
hand-painted porcelain<br />
since 1775 and its<br />
intricate designs have<br />
become synonymous<br />
with Denmark. To pick<br />
up a bargain head to<br />
the Royal Copenhagen<br />
Factory Outlet<br />
where seconds and<br />
discontinued ranges<br />
are sold on the cheap<br />
(9 Sondre Fasanvej).<br />
SEE The 8 Tallet (or 8<br />
houses) is a futuristic<br />
housing development<br />
built in Orstad and<br />
has been attracting<br />
architecture junkies<br />
since it was completed<br />
last year. Now it’s<br />
housing a pop-up<br />
art gallery, Projekt8,<br />
where students<br />
from art schools<br />
are displaying their<br />
work (62A Richard<br />
Jacobsens Vej).<br />
GO For pictureperfect<br />
Copenhagen<br />
head to Nyhavn, the<br />
17th-century harbour.<br />
It’s lined with colourful<br />
historic buildings and<br />
from 11 November it<br />
holds an atmospheric<br />
Christmas market<br />
selling decorations<br />
and small gifts. Try the<br />
Danish seasonal treat,<br />
aebleskiver – spherical<br />
pancakes that you<br />
dip in jam and icing<br />
sugar – at one of the<br />
many cafés before<br />
heading to the end of<br />
the harbour for a great<br />
view of Christianshavn.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
There are 5,560,628<br />
people living in<br />
Denmark, 539,542<br />
of whom call<br />
Copenhagen home.<br />
Cathy Strongman<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio)<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25<br />
No. 8 buses go<br />
to the centre<br />
from 5.55am–11.15pm.<br />
Tickets: €4.50.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le<br />
Temps des Oliviers<br />
(1 Rue Halles, tel: 04<br />
9528 3672) Situated<br />
in Ajaccio’s Old Town<br />
district, this Italian-<br />
Corsican restaurant<br />
off ers aff ordable meals<br />
in a pleasant terrace<br />
setting. There are a<br />
variety of adventurous<br />
Mediterranean dishes<br />
on off er, but the pizzas<br />
are delicious.<br />
EXCLUSIVE L’Altru<br />
Versu (Route des<br />
Sanguinaires, tel: 04<br />
9550 0522) For total<br />
indulgence on this<br />
beautiful island, this<br />
restaurant is the only<br />
place to go. The waiters<br />
will ensure you’re well<br />
looked after and guide<br />
you through the vast<br />
menu and wine list.<br />
Go for an extravagant<br />
lobster or eat citrus<br />
pork medallions.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Safari<br />
(18 Boulevard Lantivy)<br />
A tranquil setting<br />
overlooking the<br />
promenade of the<br />
Ligurian waterfront.<br />
This bar is the perfect<br />
place to go for a<br />
relaxing evening of<br />
cocktails and for a spot<br />
of people-watching.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Lamparo<br />
(Résidence Diamant,<br />
1 Boulevard Lantivy,<br />
tel: 04 9551 4705)<br />
Opening at 7am,<br />
this venue attracts<br />
more and more faces<br />
throughout the day,<br />
and is the life of the<br />
town by nightfall.<br />
Overlooking the bay<br />
of Ajaccio, Le Lamparo<br />
attracts crowds<br />
of people with its<br />
regular DJ sets.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO A Mela Nostra<br />
is Corsica’s apple<br />
festival, and this year it<br />
will take place on 5–6<br />
November in the village<br />
of Bastelica. As well<br />
as having the pick of<br />
a wide range of foods,<br />
visitors will also be<br />
encouraged to sample<br />
other local specialities.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Ajaccio is separated<br />
from the neighbouring<br />
island of Sardinia<br />
by only 11km, yet<br />
one is French and<br />
the other Italian.<br />
William Turvill
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Corsica<br />
(Bastia)<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Manchester,<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
Catch the bus to<br />
the Préfecture.<br />
Tickets: €9.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Maison des Pizzas<br />
(Place du Monument,<br />
tel: 04 9537 0852)<br />
The eclectic pizza<br />
menu here off ers<br />
both the usual<br />
classics and original<br />
Corsican recipes. A<br />
regional twist on the<br />
Italian staple will<br />
have you coming<br />
back for more.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Citadelle (6 Rue<br />
du Dragon, tel: 04<br />
9531 4470) Locals<br />
come to this gourmet<br />
restaurant to see and<br />
be seen, and for some<br />
of the best food in<br />
Bastia. Save room for<br />
one of the excellent<br />
desserts on off er.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le LVP<br />
Café (12 Rue Spinola,<br />
tel: 04 9531 2136)<br />
Sit back and relax<br />
with a glass of Pietra<br />
(Corsican chestnut<br />
beer) or local wine<br />
while admiring Bastia’s<br />
most picturesque port<br />
as the sun disappears<br />
over the mountains.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Pulpe (11 Rue<br />
Sisco, tel: 04 9531<br />
7669) A hot nightclub<br />
in the winter season,<br />
Le Pulpe’s DJs pump<br />
out R’n’B, reggae and<br />
hip hop to the crowd<br />
that keep the place<br />
hot and sweaty even<br />
though it can be chilly<br />
outside. Open till 5am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE This year the<br />
29th Festival du<br />
Film et des Arts<br />
Méditerranéens<br />
showcases seven<br />
long métrages along<br />
with exhibitions,<br />
music, conferences<br />
and more, all with<br />
a mystery theme<br />
(Théatre de Bastia,<br />
Rue Favalelli,<br />
tel: 04 9534 9800,<br />
arte-mare.eu).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although Corsica<br />
is renowned for its<br />
idyllic beaches, the<br />
mountains comprise<br />
two-thirds of the<br />
island. In fact, Corsica<br />
boasts more than<br />
120 summits over<br />
2,000m high.<br />
Stacy Jouve<br />
Cyprus<br />
(Larnaca)<br />
Cyprus<br />
DIALLING CODE +357<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Camel<br />
Park Restaurant<br />
(Mazotos Road,<br />
Mazotos, tel: 24 991<br />
243) This restaurant<br />
off ers a good<br />
selection of Cypriot<br />
dishes. Situated next<br />
to the camel park,<br />
it is also an<br />
interesting place to<br />
visit during the day.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Gefseis en Lefko<br />
(8 Piale Pasha, tel: 24<br />
655 664) A traditional<br />
restaurant off ering<br />
many vegetarian<br />
options. Fish and meat<br />
mezzes bring Cypriot<br />
cuisine to your table.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY JJ’s<br />
Lounge and Sports<br />
Bar (16–17 Galaxias<br />
Street, Dhekelia<br />
Road) Great music<br />
and entertainment<br />
including Friday-night<br />
karaoke make this<br />
a popular bar with<br />
all age groups. A<br />
friendly welcome<br />
always awaits you.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Preserve Lounge Bar<br />
(89 Ermou Street)<br />
Located in an old<br />
building, Preserve<br />
also off ers an evening<br />
venue with a touch<br />
of glamour, including<br />
good music, DJs and<br />
regular events.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE On 1–15<br />
November choirs,<br />
orchestras, dancers<br />
and theatre groups<br />
will take part in the<br />
annual Larnaca<br />
Amateur Artistic<br />
Creation at Larnaca<br />
Municipal Theatre.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The 21 wind turbines<br />
outside Larnaca, create<br />
enough power to<br />
supply 18,000 homes.<br />
Bev Orton Jennings<br />
PANORAMIC<br />
VILLAGE<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Nearby to Larnaca<br />
airport, and close<br />
to the beach, this<br />
collection of spacious<br />
self-catering<br />
apartments are ideal.<br />
From €35, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Sitting S comfortably?<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 129<br />
Cyprus<br />
(Paphos)<br />
Cyprus<br />
DIALLING CODE +357<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, London<br />
(LGW, LTN),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Buses leave after<br />
the fl ights to<br />
Coral Bay. Tickets: €3<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Georgie Porgie<br />
(34 Griva Dighenis, tel:<br />
96 571 932) A great<br />
place for homemade<br />
pies and cakes by<br />
the slice and all-day<br />
breakfasts. Sunday<br />
lunch also on off er.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Colosseum I<br />
Restaurant and Wine<br />
Lounge (Danaes<br />
Avenue, Kato Paphos,<br />
tel: 26 962 415) A<br />
romantic restaurant<br />
with a pleasant<br />
Mediterranean terrace<br />
and a menu that<br />
includes Italian cuisine<br />
cooked to perfection<br />
and fi ne wines.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Testa Cossa (17<br />
Neofytou Nikolaidi,<br />
Pitokopides Centre,<br />
tel: 26 910 055)<br />
Popularly known as<br />
Fifth Floor, come to<br />
enjoy a selection of<br />
cocktails, coff ees and<br />
wines with fantastic<br />
views over Paphos.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Flairs (Centre of Bar<br />
Street, tel: 99 452<br />
372) Some of the best<br />
entertainers and DJs<br />
play at the lively Flairs<br />
Cocktail Bar, which<br />
is popular with<br />
locals and tourists.<br />
Free club entrance.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE A day trip to<br />
the capital, Nicosia,<br />
provides a fascinating<br />
insight into Cypriot<br />
history and culture.<br />
The Old Town provides<br />
a mix of history with<br />
plenty of spots to<br />
enjoy lunch and<br />
coff ee. Nicosia is the<br />
only divided city in<br />
Europe: the north is<br />
governed by Turkey<br />
and the south by the<br />
Republic of Cyprus.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Greek-Cypriot<br />
dialect diff ers from<br />
mainland Greek and<br />
is closer to the<br />
ancient Greek<br />
language. It contains<br />
a rich blend of<br />
vocabulary from<br />
the many diff erent<br />
cultures that have<br />
lived here. If you only<br />
say kalimera (hello),<br />
it’s a good start!<br />
Lucie Robson/lintv.eu<br />
Imagine over 5 million people looking<br />
at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />
Make ppart<br />
of your plan today<br />
150x28 (5 MILLION) 14.10.11.indd 1 14/10/<strong>2011</strong> 15:01<br />
TAXI
130 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Dortmund<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Barcelona,<br />
Budapest, London<br />
(LTN), Majorca,<br />
Thessaloniki, Zagreb<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
Just<br />
Dessert<br />
A SUGAR-COATED<br />
GUIDE TO AMSTERDAM’S<br />
BEST SWEET TREATS<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €22.<br />
The Airport<br />
Express leaves<br />
every hour. Tickets: €6.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Kawado (45 Grosse<br />
Heimstrasse, tel: 0231<br />
858 109) Stylish café,<br />
bar and restaurant<br />
with plenty of<br />
artworks. Great salads,<br />
famed breakfasts and<br />
select wines. Closed<br />
on Mondays.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Zum Treppchen<br />
(21 Fassstrasse,<br />
Hörde, tel: 0231<br />
496 8065) Despite<br />
the post-industrial<br />
surroundings, this<br />
18th-century house<br />
is a fantastic place<br />
to come for good<br />
quality German<br />
meals. The menu<br />
changes regularly.<br />
Where to fi nd early snow<br />
Party like it’s 1969 in Berlin<br />
Art at the Hadron Collider<br />
Our network’s best Xmas gifts<br />
An ode to Thessaloniki<br />
NOVEMBER <strong>2011</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />
001 Cover Final.indd 1 13/10/<strong>2011</strong> 08:52<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Bergmann Kiosk<br />
(36 Hoher Wall) A<br />
fantastic outlet for<br />
beers produced by<br />
Dortmund’s newest<br />
brewery, this retro 1956<br />
kiosk boasts friendly<br />
staff and a good<br />
selection of excellent<br />
Bergmann beers.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Fizzgeraldo (26 Kleine<br />
Beurhausstrasse, tel:<br />
0231 141 300) Inspired<br />
by the fi lm Fitzcarraldo<br />
starring Klaus Kinski<br />
and set in the tropics,<br />
this new colonial-style<br />
bar in an elegant<br />
white building off ers<br />
fantastic cocktails,<br />
snacks and a very<br />
lively atmosphere.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Take a trip to the<br />
medieval Hansemarkt<br />
festival, held in<br />
Dortmund city centre<br />
from 2–6 November,<br />
with music, food, drink,<br />
livestock, jousting,<br />
sword fi ghting, crafts<br />
demonstrations and<br />
a display of historical<br />
agricultural machines<br />
(and some steam<br />
tractors) on the<br />
Sunday (hansemarktdortmund.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Dortmunder<br />
Weihnachtsmarkt, or<br />
Christmas market,<br />
which opens in the<br />
city centre on 17<br />
November, is set<br />
to attract over two<br />
million visitors from<br />
Germany and abroad.<br />
Jeroen van Marle/<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
Dresden<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
The S-Bahn<br />
leaves every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €2.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
La Fourchette (87<br />
Wittenberger Strasse,<br />
tel: 0351 312 0371)<br />
The French-Caribbean<br />
cooking at La<br />
Fourchette draws a<br />
crowd as diverse as<br />
the ever-changing<br />
menu. Gilthead bream<br />
with lobster sauce<br />
on spinach couscous<br />
is one of the more<br />
popular creations.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Gourmetrestaurant<br />
Caroussel (14<br />
Königstrasse, tel: 0351<br />
180 030) This is an<br />
elegant retreat for the<br />
discerning gourmet.<br />
Chef Dirk Schröer’s<br />
creations, such as<br />
Saxony venison, delight<br />
national politicians,<br />
and theatre-goers<br />
alike, and have earned<br />
the restaurant<br />
a Michelin star.<br />
FILLER and cannot take ADVERT<br />
it with you, visit<br />
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Gaststätte Zum<br />
Bautzner Tor (37<br />
Hoyerswerdaer<br />
Strasse) A true<br />
neighbourhood bar,<br />
Bautzner has outlived<br />
every other local joint<br />
with its decent food,<br />
comfortable chairs,<br />
a pool table and<br />
a beer selection from<br />
a local brewer.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Onlyone Dresden<br />
(83 Alaunstrasse)<br />
The name refers to its<br />
status as Dresden’s<br />
only molecular cocktail<br />
bar, mixing alcohol<br />
with things like liquid<br />
nitrogen and chlorides.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
What do the coff ee<br />
fi lter, wristwatch,<br />
coaster, fridge,<br />
mouthwash, washing<br />
machine, toothpaste<br />
and the bra all have<br />
in common? They<br />
were all invented in or<br />
around Dresden.<br />
Chris Bush<br />
JAZZTAGE<br />
DRESDEN<br />
SEE This month<br />
jazz performers<br />
from around the<br />
globe will bring their<br />
unique styles to the<br />
“Jazztage Dresden”<br />
festival (2–15<br />
November, jazztagedresden.de).<br />
If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />
traveller.‰.com .com<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London (LGW), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Trains to<br />
Düseldorf<br />
Hauptbahnhof leave<br />
every 10–15 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €2.30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ess<br />
Klasse (12 Erftstrasse,<br />
tel: 0174 300 1299) No<br />
frills, no pudding and<br />
not even any seats –<br />
but the daily-changing<br />
lunch specials at Ess<br />
Klasse are wholesome,<br />
healthy and cheap<br />
enough to keep Media<br />
Harbour trendies<br />
coming back for more.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Menuett (1A<br />
Königsallee, tel: 021<br />
113 810) With dishes<br />
like iced vichysoisse<br />
with salmon tartare or<br />
lobster and scallops<br />
on caulifl ower puree,<br />
the menu at Menuett<br />
is as elegant as the<br />
old-money setting.<br />
00000 EasyJet WEBSITE 10.02.11.indd 1 17/10/<strong>2011</strong> 16:21<br />
TAXI<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Zum Uerige (1<br />
Bergerstrasse, tel:<br />
0211 866 990) No<br />
visit to Düsseldorf’s<br />
Altstadt is complete<br />
without a visit to<br />
the labyrinthine yet<br />
cosy brauhaus Zum<br />
Uerige, to sample<br />
the traditional local<br />
“Alt” beer.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Rotkompot (23C<br />
Pinienstrasse, tel:<br />
0173 246 0004)<br />
Small but quirky<br />
and worth checking<br />
out, Rotkompot<br />
originally catered<br />
to the youth of<br />
Düsseldorf’s Russian<br />
community. These<br />
days weekends see<br />
DJs spinning anything<br />
from drum ‘n’ bass to<br />
electro, breakcore<br />
and techno.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE There’s a<br />
focus on traditional<br />
Japanese art at<br />
the Museum Kunst<br />
Palast this autumn,<br />
where the exhibition<br />
Samurai, Stars of the<br />
Stage and Beautiful<br />
Women shows 80<br />
stunning colour<br />
woodcut prints<br />
by 19th-century<br />
artists Kunisada and<br />
Kuniyoshi. Until 15<br />
January (smkp.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Düsseldorf is<br />
Germany’s fashion<br />
capital. Its elegant<br />
main shopping street<br />
Königsallee is known<br />
as Kö for short.<br />
Neville Walker
DIE SCHÖNSTE<br />
FRAU DER WELT<br />
WIRD 500.<br />
Die Sixtinische Madonna —<br />
Raffaels Kultbild feiert Geburtstag.<br />
Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister,<br />
Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden<br />
www.skd.museum<br />
26.5. – 26.8.2012<br />
156x105_SKD_MagEasyJet_Madonna.indd 1 17.10.11 15:17
132 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Edinburgh<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Bristol,<br />
Cologne, Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
Geneva, Grenoble,<br />
Krakow, Lisbon, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />
Munich, Majorca,<br />
Naples, Nice, Paris<br />
(CDG), Tenerife<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £15.<br />
The Airlink 100<br />
goes to the<br />
centre. Tickets: £3.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Henderson’s @ St<br />
John’s (94 Hanover<br />
Street, tel: 0131 229<br />
0212) The vaulted café<br />
below St John’s at the<br />
west end of Princes<br />
Street is home to a new<br />
outpost of Edinburgh’s<br />
long-serving vegetarian<br />
venture. Great for<br />
a light lunch or<br />
coff ee and cake away<br />
from the crowds.<br />
Nigel<br />
before<br />
treatment<br />
UP TO €30 Indaba<br />
(3 Lochrin Terrace, tel:<br />
0131 221 1554) Tastes<br />
of Spain, Venezuela<br />
and South Africa meet<br />
in this small local<br />
restaurant in Tollcross.<br />
Handy for the King’s<br />
Theatre, the homecooked<br />
plates come<br />
tapas-style,<br />
with a healthy choice<br />
for vegetarians.<br />
The torta llorona<br />
(“crying cake”) is one<br />
to save room for.<br />
UP TO €50 The<br />
Grain Store (30<br />
Victoria Street, Old<br />
Town, tel: 0131 225<br />
7635) There’s a<br />
surprisingly homely<br />
and rustic charm to<br />
these upstairs grain<br />
vaults situated in the<br />
heart of the Old Town,<br />
thanks to the alcoves<br />
and bare stone walls.<br />
The menu is brief and<br />
focuses on Scottishsourced<br />
ingredients,<br />
with the saddle of<br />
Perthshire Venison<br />
a highlight of the<br />
á la carte menu.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Rhubarb<br />
(Prestonfi eld House,<br />
Southside, tel: 0131<br />
225 1333) The<br />
opulent dining rooms<br />
of this hotel provide<br />
a fantasy setting<br />
for a decadent<br />
dining experience.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bow<br />
Bar (80 West Bow,<br />
Victoria Street, tel:<br />
0131 226 7667) This<br />
authentically recreated<br />
one-room Scottish bar<br />
is CAMRA’s Edinburgh<br />
pub of the year. There<br />
is always a good<br />
range of beers on tap,<br />
but the fi ne gantry is<br />
what draws the<br />
eye, with over 100<br />
diff erent whiskies<br />
to choose from.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Sandy<br />
Bell’s (25 Forrest<br />
Road, tel: 0131 225<br />
2751) Often packed<br />
and always lively, the<br />
nightly free music<br />
sessions in the corner<br />
of this central bar show<br />
off traditional Scottish<br />
music. The playing<br />
may not be technically<br />
perfect, but it is at its<br />
most vibrant<br />
and immediate.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Espionage (4 India<br />
Buildings, Victoria<br />
Street, tel: 0131 477<br />
7007) Five fl oors of<br />
night-time cavorting,<br />
with a diff erent club on<br />
each. Stays open until<br />
the wee small hours,<br />
making it a favourite<br />
with students,<br />
backpackers and<br />
locals alike. The drinks<br />
are (relatively) cheap<br />
and the music policy is<br />
all-embracing.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Old<br />
Children’s Bookshelf<br />
is a treasure trove<br />
of nostalgia on the<br />
Royal Mile. You’ll fi nd<br />
old and collectable<br />
books for children,<br />
Weight Reduction Skin Retraction &<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
with a strong focus on<br />
Scottish books, as well<br />
as prints, postcards<br />
and posters (175<br />
Canongate, Royal Mile,<br />
tel: 0131 558 3411).<br />
SEE The King’s<br />
Theatre has a month<br />
of great performances<br />
before it shuts for a<br />
major refurbishment.<br />
It kicks off with Simon<br />
Callow in Dr Marigold<br />
and Mr Chops,<br />
continuing with the<br />
National Theatre of<br />
Scotland’s production<br />
of Men Should Weep<br />
(2 Leven Street).<br />
GO Dean Village<br />
provides more than<br />
the two buildings of<br />
the Scottish National<br />
Gallery of Modern Art,<br />
situated on either side<br />
of Belford Road. The<br />
sprawling Victorian<br />
Dean cemetery is great<br />
for a wander, while the<br />
water of Leith is<br />
easily accessible.<br />
ESCAPE Rising up to<br />
the south of Edinburgh,<br />
just beyond the city<br />
bypass, the Pentland<br />
Hills are convenient for<br />
a day’s walking escape<br />
in the country and<br />
accessible by public<br />
transport. LRT buses<br />
No.10, to Torphin,<br />
and No.15, to Hillend,<br />
are convenient.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sir Alexander Dick<br />
of Prestonfi eld<br />
introduced rhubarb to<br />
Scotland in the early<br />
18th century, receiving<br />
a medal from the<br />
Royal Society for his<br />
innovative horticultural<br />
endeavours.<br />
Thom Dibdin<br />
Faro<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast (BFS),<br />
Bristol, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
SEN, STN), Newcastle,<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Faro is<br />
about €10, Vilamoura<br />
€25, and Albufeira and<br />
Tavira €40.<br />
Eva buses<br />
go to various<br />
destinations.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
capital, Paquete sits<br />
right on a raised<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Fim do<br />
Mundo (53 Rua Vasco<br />
da Gama, tel: 289 826<br />
299) Unfl atteringly<br />
called “the end of the<br />
world”, this plain but<br />
characterful local does<br />
what the Portuguese<br />
do so well: simple,<br />
good-value grilled<br />
chicken, meats and<br />
fi sh, which are best<br />
washed down with a<br />
fl agon of the local wine.<br />
UP TO €30 Chá<br />
Com Água Salgada<br />
(Apoio de Praia, Manta<br />
Rota, tel: 281 952<br />
856) The beautifully<br />
positioned Chá Com<br />
Água Salgada sits on<br />
the broad sands at<br />
Manta Rota, east of<br />
Faro. The smart beach<br />
restaurant specialises<br />
in the best local fi sh<br />
and seafood, including<br />
shrimps, tiger prawns,<br />
lobster, açorda de<br />
lingeuirão (bread<br />
sauce with razor<br />
clams) and various<br />
rice and meat dishes<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Restaurante<br />
Visconde (Pousada<br />
do Palácio de Estoi,<br />
Rua São José, tel: 289<br />
990 150) Set in the<br />
plush peach-coloured<br />
Palácio do Visconde<br />
de Estoi, just north<br />
of Faro, the pousada<br />
restaurant serves<br />
some fantastic local<br />
novelties: try the razor<br />
fi sh samosas, hare<br />
soup with white beans,<br />
Algarvian salads or<br />
the memorable boar<br />
cataplana with clams,<br />
sweet potatoes<br />
and pumpkin.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Vila<br />
Joya (Estrada da<br />
Praia da Galé, tel: 289<br />
591 795) Portugal’s<br />
only two Michelin star<br />
restaurant faces the<br />
beautiful sands of Praia<br />
da Galé. The Frenchinspired<br />
menu from<br />
chef Dieter Koschina<br />
uses local ingredients<br />
to create memorable<br />
dishes such as guinea<br />
fowl with truffl es<br />
and artichokes, black<br />
pork and chocolate<br />
mousse with<br />
ginger jelly.<br />
"Alizonne has transformed my life!"<br />
Nigel<br />
Lost 12st 7lbs<br />
with 34 weeks<br />
of treatment<br />
Contour Shaping WITHOUT SURGERY<br />
A Revolutionary Medical Treatment Programme<br />
0844 8001209 www.alizonne.co.uk<br />
(uk)<br />
preventative & cosmetic medicine<br />
Clinics Nationwide
134 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Faro<br />
Portugal<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Columbus Lounge<br />
Bar (13 Praça Dr<br />
Francisco Gomes, tel:<br />
917 776 222) Faro’s<br />
most “in” bar blends<br />
modern décor with<br />
the bare stone of a<br />
500-year-old former<br />
hospital. It has outdoor<br />
seating under arcades.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Sociedade<br />
Recreativa Artistica<br />
Farense (10 Rua do<br />
Montepio, tel: 289<br />
822 988) This small<br />
but arty Faro society<br />
showcases the best<br />
up and coming<br />
Portuguese bands,<br />
from rock and pop to<br />
folk and acoustic.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kadoc (Estrada de<br />
Vilamoura, tel: 912 222<br />
241) As the Algarve’s<br />
biggest club, Kadoc<br />
pulls in fun-seeking<br />
revellers from across<br />
the whole country for<br />
its legendary weekend<br />
sessions, which<br />
include various DJs.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For beautiful<br />
locally produced<br />
embroidery, ceramics,<br />
cork products, bags<br />
and knitted jumpers,<br />
try the two branches<br />
of F Carminho on<br />
Faro’s main shopping<br />
street (28–29 Rua de<br />
Santo António).<br />
SEE On 11 November,<br />
São Martinho is<br />
honoured with the first<br />
tastings of the year’s<br />
wine and roasted<br />
chestnuts. Portimão has<br />
an extended fair with<br />
food and events nightly<br />
(6–15 November).<br />
GO The engagingly<br />
low-tech Museu<br />
Regional showcases<br />
the Algarve’s crafts,<br />
complete with<br />
reconstructions of<br />
traditional house<br />
interiors, models of<br />
fi shing boats and<br />
traditional dress<br />
(2 Praça de Liberdade).<br />
ESCAPE Head to<br />
Vilamoura marina<br />
where various boat<br />
trips run up and down<br />
the coast. You can take<br />
excursions to watch<br />
dolphins or try your<br />
hand at catching your<br />
own supper on<br />
a fi shing trip.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Romans believed<br />
that the sun sank<br />
into the ocean every<br />
night off Cabo de São<br />
Vicente, the most<br />
southwesterly point<br />
of the Algarve.<br />
Matthew Hancock<br />
REAL<br />
BELLAVISTA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This luxury hotel is<br />
conveniently located<br />
in the centre of<br />
Albufeira, close to<br />
the beach. Breakfast<br />
included. From<br />
€55, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
restaurant gut<br />
C/ perill 13 BARCELONA<br />
T. 0034 931 866 360<br />
Fez<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about 120MAD.<br />
Buses run to<br />
the train station<br />
in the New City.<br />
Tickets: 20MAD.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Chicken Mac (Avenue<br />
Lalla Meryem) Make<br />
like the locals and<br />
head for this simple<br />
pavement eatery for<br />
succulent spit-roast<br />
chicken with a fi ery<br />
harissa dipping sauce.<br />
It comes with fresh<br />
chips, fl uff y bread and<br />
a plate of salad.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Trois<br />
Sources (Route<br />
d’Immouzer, tel: 0535<br />
606 532) Snuggle up in<br />
front of the enormous<br />
fi replace at this<br />
country club, where<br />
the food is excellent<br />
and the mood mellow.<br />
Choose the succulent<br />
prawns or a hearty<br />
steak with a bottle of<br />
good Moroccan wine.<br />
There’s also lovely live<br />
music at weekends.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cafe<br />
Firdaous (Place de<br />
l’Istiqlal, Batha) For a<br />
good pot of mint tea<br />
or nuss-nuss (coff ee<br />
with milk), this café is<br />
the ideal spot to while<br />
away an afternoon and<br />
watch the world go by<br />
in busy Batha. There’s<br />
free Wi-Fi, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cafe Clock (Derb<br />
Margana, Tala’a Kebira,<br />
tel: 0535 637 855)<br />
There’s standing room<br />
only at Cafe Clock<br />
on Sunday nights<br />
when the hip café<br />
hosts local musicians<br />
on djembe, hajhouj<br />
and krakub. There<br />
are music sessions<br />
on Wednesdays and<br />
Saturdays, too.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Saunter down<br />
Tala’a Kebira from<br />
the famous Blue Gate<br />
(Bab Boujloud) all<br />
the way down to the<br />
Qarayouine Mosque.<br />
You’ll be entranced by<br />
markets, tiny shops,<br />
medieval buildings,<br />
fountains and cafés to<br />
stop off for a refreshing<br />
glass of mint tea.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Every family<br />
slaughters a sheep for<br />
the most important<br />
festival, Eid el-Adha, on<br />
6 November. The smell<br />
of barbecuing heads<br />
might put you off your<br />
lamb chops, though.<br />
Helen Ranger<br />
Fuerteventura<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel, Bristol,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The local taxi fare to<br />
Corralejo is €60, Caleta<br />
de Fuste €15 and Costa<br />
Calma €90.<br />
Route 3 goes to<br />
Caleta de Fuste.<br />
Tickets: €1.40. Route 6<br />
buses, to Corralejo, run<br />
every hour. Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Pura<br />
Vida (Grandes Playa<br />
Corralejo) This beachfront<br />
bar overlooks<br />
Lobos. Its fantastic<br />
setting, great food and<br />
atmosphere make it<br />
the perfect spot for a<br />
quick bite. Saturday<br />
night is BBQ night and<br />
there is also some<br />
great entertainment.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Scarpetta (8 Centro<br />
Comercial La Menara,<br />
Calle Juan de Austria,<br />
tel: 928 535 887) In<br />
this exceptional Italian<br />
restaurant you should<br />
ignore the menu<br />
and ask Mario about<br />
his specials. The<br />
owner prides himself<br />
on outstanding cuisine<br />
– all of the dishes<br />
are cooked with<br />
local ingredients<br />
and each main<br />
course has a fantastic<br />
wine to match.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY El<br />
Toston (Old Harbour,<br />
El Cotillo, tel: 928 538<br />
489) This is a fabulous<br />
early-evening venue<br />
in a really superb<br />
location, where you<br />
can enjoy a glass of<br />
your favourite tipple<br />
watching the sun go<br />
down over the sea.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Robins Nest (20 Calle<br />
de Aristides Hernadez<br />
Maron) A comfortable<br />
but busy bar, Robins<br />
Nest has live music<br />
by local bands. They<br />
often play music<br />
from the 1960s and<br />
1970s, creating a great<br />
cheerful atmosphere.<br />
Sing along and dance<br />
the night away.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Head to the 24th<br />
International Kite<br />
Festival, on 10–13<br />
November, on the<br />
Dunes of Corralejo.<br />
There’s a beautiful<br />
display of kites from<br />
around the world.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The fi rst camels were<br />
brought to this island<br />
between the end of the<br />
15th and the beginning<br />
of the 16th century.<br />
Penny Melville<br />
International &<br />
vegetarian cuisine<br />
Elegant simplicity with an easy going atmosphere
134 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Faro<br />
Portugal<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Columbus Lounge<br />
Bar (13 Praça Dr<br />
Francisco Gomes, tel:<br />
917 776 222) Faro’s<br />
most “in” bar blends<br />
modern décor with<br />
the bare stone of a<br />
500-year-old former<br />
hospital. It has outdoor<br />
seating under arcades.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Sociedade<br />
Recreativa Artistica<br />
Farense (10 Rua do<br />
Montepio, tel: 289<br />
822 988) This small<br />
but arty Faro society<br />
showcases the best<br />
up and coming<br />
Portuguese bands,<br />
from rock and pop to<br />
folk and acoustic.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kadoc (Estrada de<br />
Vilamoura, tel: 912 222<br />
241) As the Algarve’s<br />
biggest club, Kadoc<br />
pulls in fun-seeking<br />
revellers from across<br />
the whole country for<br />
its legendary weekend<br />
sessions, which<br />
include various DJs.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For beautiful<br />
locally produced<br />
embroidery, ceramics,<br />
cork products, bags<br />
and knitted jumpers,<br />
try the two branches<br />
of F Carminho on<br />
Faro’s main shopping<br />
street (28–29 Rua de<br />
Santo António).<br />
SEE On 11 November,<br />
São Martinho is<br />
honoured with the first<br />
tastings of the year’s<br />
wine and roasted<br />
chestnuts. Portimão has<br />
an extended fair with<br />
food and events nightly<br />
(6–15 November).<br />
GO The engagingly<br />
low-tech Museu<br />
Regional showcases<br />
the Algarve’s crafts,<br />
complete with<br />
reconstructions of<br />
traditional house<br />
interiors, models of<br />
fi shing boats and<br />
traditional dress<br />
(2 Praça de Liberdade).<br />
ESCAPE Head to<br />
Vilamoura marina<br />
where various boat<br />
trips run up and down<br />
the coast. You can take<br />
excursions to watch<br />
dolphins or try your<br />
hand at catching your<br />
own supper on<br />
a fi shing trip.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Romans believed<br />
that the sun sank<br />
into the ocean every<br />
night off Cabo de São<br />
Vicente, the most<br />
southwesterly point<br />
of the Algarve.<br />
Matthew Hancock<br />
REAL<br />
BELLAVISTA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This luxury hotel is<br />
conveniently located<br />
in the centre of<br />
Albufeira, close to<br />
the beach. Breakfast<br />
included. From<br />
€55, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
restaurant gut<br />
C/ perill 13 BARCELONA<br />
T. 0034 931 866 360<br />
Fez<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about 120MAD.<br />
Buses run to<br />
the train station<br />
in the New City.<br />
Tickets: 20MAD.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Chicken Mac (Avenue<br />
Lalla Meryem) Make<br />
like the locals and<br />
head for this simple<br />
pavement eatery for<br />
succulent spit-roast<br />
chicken with a fi ery<br />
harissa dipping sauce.<br />
It comes with fresh<br />
chips, fl uff y bread and<br />
a plate of salad.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Trois<br />
Sources (Route<br />
d’Immouzer, tel: 0535<br />
606 532) Snuggle up in<br />
front of the enormous<br />
fi replace at this<br />
country club, where<br />
the food is excellent<br />
and the mood mellow.<br />
Choose the succulent<br />
prawns or a hearty<br />
steak with a bottle of<br />
good Moroccan wine.<br />
There’s also lovely live<br />
music at weekends.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cafe<br />
Firdaous (Place de<br />
l’Istiqlal, Batha) For a<br />
good pot of mint tea<br />
or nuss-nuss (coff ee<br />
with milk), this café is<br />
the ideal spot to while<br />
away an afternoon and<br />
watch the world go by<br />
in busy Batha. There’s<br />
free Wi-Fi, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cafe Clock (Derb<br />
Margana, Tala’a Kebira,<br />
tel: 0535 637 855)<br />
There’s standing room<br />
only at Cafe Clock<br />
on Sunday nights<br />
when the hip café<br />
hosts local musicians<br />
on djembe, hajhouj<br />
and krakub. There<br />
are music sessions<br />
on Wednesdays and<br />
Saturdays, too.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Saunter down<br />
Tala’a Kebira from<br />
the famous Blue Gate<br />
(Bab Boujloud) all<br />
the way down to the<br />
Qarayouine Mosque.<br />
You’ll be entranced by<br />
markets, tiny shops,<br />
medieval buildings,<br />
fountains and cafés to<br />
stop off for a refreshing<br />
glass of mint tea.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Every family<br />
slaughters a sheep for<br />
the most important<br />
festival, Eid el-Adha, on<br />
6 November. The smell<br />
of barbecuing heads<br />
might put you off your<br />
lamb chops, though.<br />
Helen Ranger<br />
Fuerteventura<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel, Bristol,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The local taxi fare to<br />
Corralejo is €60, Caleta<br />
de Fuste €15 and Costa<br />
Calma €90.<br />
Route 3 goes to<br />
Caleta de Fuste.<br />
Tickets: €1.40. Route 6<br />
buses, to Corralejo, run<br />
every hour. Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Pura<br />
Vida (Grandes Playa<br />
Corralejo) This beachfront<br />
bar overlooks<br />
Lobos. Its fantastic<br />
setting, great food and<br />
atmosphere make it<br />
the perfect spot for a<br />
quick bite. Saturday<br />
night is BBQ night and<br />
there is also some<br />
great entertainment.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Scarpetta (8 Centro<br />
Comercial La Menara,<br />
Calle Juan de Austria,<br />
tel: 928 535 887) In<br />
this exceptional Italian<br />
restaurant you should<br />
ignore the menu<br />
and ask Mario about<br />
his specials. The<br />
owner prides himself<br />
on outstanding cuisine<br />
– all of the dishes<br />
are cooked with<br />
local ingredients<br />
and each main<br />
course has a fantastic<br />
wine to match.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY El<br />
Toston (Old Harbour,<br />
El Cotillo, tel: 928 538<br />
489) This is a fabulous<br />
early-evening venue<br />
in a really superb<br />
location, where you<br />
can enjoy a glass of<br />
your favourite tipple<br />
watching the sun go<br />
down over the sea.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Robins Nest (20 Calle<br />
de Aristides Hernadez<br />
Maron) A comfortable<br />
but busy bar, Robins<br />
Nest has live music<br />
by local bands. They<br />
often play music<br />
from the 1960s and<br />
1970s, creating a great<br />
cheerful atmosphere.<br />
Sing along and dance<br />
the night away.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Head to the 24th<br />
International Kite<br />
Festival, on 10–13<br />
November, on the<br />
Dunes of Corralejo.<br />
There’s a beautiful<br />
display of kites from<br />
around the world.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The fi rst camels were<br />
brought to this island<br />
between the end of the<br />
15th and the beginning<br />
of the 16th century.<br />
Penny Melville<br />
International &<br />
vegetarian cuisine<br />
Elegant simplicity with an easy going atmosphere
136 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Geneva<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Asturias,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bilbao, Birmingham,<br />
Bordeaux,<br />
Bournemouth,<br />
Brindisi, Bristol,<br />
Brussels, Budapest,<br />
Cagliari, Copenhagen,<br />
Corsica (Ajaccio),<br />
Corsica (Bastia), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Glasgow, Hurghada,<br />
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
Leeds-Bradford,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN), Madrid,Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Manchester,<br />
Marrakech, Mykonos,<br />
Nantes, Naples,<br />
Newcastle, Nice,<br />
Olbia, Paris (ORY),<br />
Porto, Pristina,<br />
Rome, Santiago de<br />
Compostela, Sharm<br />
El Sheikh, Split,<br />
Stockholm,<br />
Tel Aviv, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about CHF50.<br />
Trains go to<br />
Cornavin station.<br />
Pick up a free ticket<br />
from the machine<br />
in baggage reclaim,<br />
which lasts an hour.<br />
A Swiss Transfer<br />
ticket off ers open<br />
returns on buses,<br />
trains and boats. Buy<br />
onboard, tickets: £95.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Inkafe<br />
(Place de la Fusterie,<br />
tel: 022 840 1515)<br />
For a taste of South<br />
America go for a<br />
Latin lunch. Inkafe<br />
specialises in Peruvian<br />
cuisine such as<br />
ceviche, empanadas<br />
and salchipapa (chips<br />
with sausage slices).<br />
UP TO €30 Luigia<br />
(24A Rue Adrien<br />
Lachenal, tel: 022 840<br />
1515) Boasting the<br />
buzziest atmosphere<br />
in town where groups<br />
and families are<br />
equally welcome,<br />
the warehouse-style<br />
interior sets the scene<br />
for a feast of stonebaked<br />
pizza and grilled<br />
meat and fi sh.<br />
UP TO €50 Café<br />
Leo (12 Rue Pierre-<br />
Fatio, tel: 022 311<br />
5307) Occupying a<br />
LES NATIONS<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This well-located<br />
hotel provides<br />
luxurious super<br />
king-size beds and<br />
has a fi tness club.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €124, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
www.skipower.co.uk<br />
Tel: 0044 1737 30 60 29 | info@skipower.co.uk<br />
Follow us on @SkiPower<br />
prime corner spot,<br />
Chez Leo is great for<br />
lunches and dinners.<br />
For something more<br />
substantial, the<br />
regulars agree that the<br />
pièce de résistance<br />
is the enormous<br />
escalope a la Milanese.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Chez<br />
Kei (6 Route de<br />
Malagnou, tel: 022 346<br />
4789 ) Geneva’s wellto-do<br />
residents have<br />
been feasting on duck<br />
and dumplings at this<br />
restaurant for decades.<br />
As well as the delicious<br />
Chinese classics<br />
there’s fi ne wines and<br />
attentive service, too.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La<br />
Zinguerie (4 Ruelle<br />
de la Vinaigrerie) This<br />
wine lover’s lair is ideal<br />
for enjoying an apéritif<br />
with a selection of<br />
wines from Swiss<br />
Sauvignons to<br />
Argentinian Malbecs.<br />
The canteen-style<br />
layout creates a<br />
modern environment.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Le<br />
KAB de l’Usine (4<br />
Place des Volontaires,<br />
tel: 022 781 4057)<br />
Forming part of<br />
a factory-turnedcultural<br />
centre by the<br />
Rhône river, le Kab is<br />
dedicated to hardcore<br />
music fans. The party<br />
runs with anything<br />
from 1970s disco to<br />
reggae or Latin beats.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Moulin à Danse (20<br />
Bis Rue du Stand)<br />
Don your dancing<br />
shoes for an evening<br />
at MaD, where funk,<br />
soul and salsa moves<br />
Receive a 10% discount<br />
on your holiday,<br />
quote eJ12 when<br />
obtaining your quote<br />
rule. Founded 35 years<br />
ago as somewhere<br />
for dancing divas to<br />
indulge their passion,<br />
this has grown into<br />
one of Geneva’s<br />
favourite night spots.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you want to<br />
brighten up your home,<br />
the beautiful shop<br />
AShopWithNoName<br />
specialises in painted<br />
silk, with a range<br />
of wall-mounted<br />
fabrics (45 Rue<br />
Jacques-Dalphin).<br />
SEE Les Automnales<br />
takes over Palexpo in<br />
November. In addition<br />
to exhibitors from<br />
all over Switzerland<br />
showcasing everything<br />
from cheese to<br />
furniture, there will be<br />
some added spice from<br />
this year’s honorary<br />
guest, Tunisia.<br />
GO Brimming with<br />
ethnic restaurants,<br />
shisha bars and cheap<br />
hotels, the district of<br />
Pâquis is a bustling<br />
neighbourhood with<br />
a wealth of quirky<br />
shops to explore.<br />
ESCAPE With winter<br />
on the horizon, but not<br />
yet cold enough to ski,<br />
November is a good<br />
time to visit Evian.<br />
Walk around town to<br />
appreciate the Alpine<br />
views and architectural<br />
splendour and<br />
pay a visit to the<br />
thermal baths.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 2007 Swiss people<br />
took an average of<br />
47 train journeys, a<br />
European record!<br />
Laura Mathew<br />
Gibraltar<br />
UK Territory<br />
DIALLING CODE +350<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £5.<br />
Routes 3, 9 and<br />
10 run every 10<br />
minutes. Tickets: £1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Roy’s Cod Place<br />
(2 Watergate House,<br />
Gibraltar, tel: 200<br />
76662) The word on<br />
the street is that this<br />
is the best place for<br />
fi sh and chips in town<br />
– say no more. Except<br />
to those who are not<br />
the fi shy kind of folk,<br />
but there is other fare,<br />
including chicken and<br />
mushroom pie.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Parrilla (17–18<br />
Watergardens, tel:<br />
200 66555) This a<br />
carnivore’s heaven<br />
with superb-quality<br />
Argentinean and New<br />
Zealand steaks on<br />
the menu. If you are<br />
not a big meat eater,<br />
there is a tasty spicy<br />
gambas pil pil and, for<br />
the chilli lightweights,<br />
tasty vegetablestuff<br />
ed peppers.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Barbary<br />
Bar (The Rock Hotel, 3<br />
Europa Road, tel: 200<br />
73000) It should still<br />
be warm enough to<br />
enjoy the wisteria-clad<br />
terrace at The Rock<br />
Hotel. Enjoy fabulous<br />
views of Africa across<br />
the straits while<br />
sipping from a glass<br />
of Pimms.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Savannah Lounge<br />
(27 Leisure Island,<br />
Ocean Village, tel: 200<br />
66666) Cool music,<br />
mood lighting and<br />
killer cocktails make<br />
this a chilled-out<br />
space, especially on<br />
Friday and Saturday<br />
nights when the<br />
clubbing vibe carries<br />
on until early morning.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Get a taste of<br />
the quintessential<br />
Costa del Sol by taking<br />
a trip to Estepona,<br />
which combines an<br />
attractive Old Town<br />
with great beaches<br />
and a sophisticated<br />
port lined with<br />
see-and-be-seen<br />
waterfront bars<br />
and restaurants.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Gibraltar is nicknamed<br />
The Rock for good<br />
reason. It essentially<br />
consists of a long<br />
limestone mountain<br />
studded with as many<br />
as 140 caves.<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
Book your Winter <strong>2011</strong>/12<br />
Ski Holiday NOW from £139pp<br />
Your holiday is as important to US as it is to YOU
Ariex<br />
Immobilier S.A.<br />
LEYSIN<br />
Résidence “Les Arolles”<br />
Best opportunity for<br />
a new apartment<br />
next to the ski slopes!<br />
INVEST NOW<br />
in the Swiss Alps!<br />
FROM ONLY CHF 440,000<br />
ONE HOUR FROM GENEVA AIRPORT<br />
47, Route des Acacias, 1227 Genéve | T: +41 22 343 50 31<br />
www.ariex.ch<br />
<br />
<br />
PROPERTIES AVAILABLE TO NON RESIDENTS:<br />
FROM 3-BEDROOMED APARTMENTS TO YOUR<br />
OWN TAILOR-MADE CHALET<br />
Your home in the heart of the Swiss Alps (Crans-Montana,<br />
4 Valleys resorts link with Verbier, Nendaz, Veysonnaz, etc)<br />
<br />
<br />
Le Fer à Cheval<br />
HÔTEL I RESTAURANTS I SPA I MEGÈVE<br />
<br />
Ideally nestled in the heart of town, Le Fer A Cheval is an<br />
exclusive cluster of chalets with 54 uniquely decorated<br />
bedrooms and suites, blending contemporary aesthetics<br />
with chic and cozy furnishings. 2 restaurants: our<br />
Gastronomic restaurant offers a modern and inventive<br />
cuisine, and rotisseries. At the Alpage: enjoy Savoyard<br />
specialties by the fireplace. Discover our 450m 2 SPA<br />
Decléor, relax in one of our 6 cabins for a SPA treatment,<br />
access to indoor pool, gym, sauna, steam room, sign up<br />
yoga classes or for aquabiking. Parkings & corporate events.<br />
36 route du Crêt d’Arbois - 74120 Megève<br />
+33 (0)4 50 21 30 39 - contact@feracheval-megeve.com Graphic<br />
www.feracheval-megeve.com CIA<br />
YOUR BUILDER IN VALAIS FOR 30 YEARS<br />
VOTRE CONSTRUCTEUR EN VALAIS DEPUIS 30 ANS<br />
T. +41 27 323 21 56 | E. info@sovalco.ch | www.sovalco.ch<br />
RESIDENCES SECONDAIRES DISPONIBLES POUR<br />
LES NON DOMICILIES: DE L’APPARTEMENT 3<br />
CHAMBRES AU CHALET SUR MESURE<br />
Votre chez-vous au coeur des Alpes Suisses (Crans-Montana,<br />
Domaine des 4 Vallées, Nendaz, Veysonnaz, etc)
138 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Glasgow<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Belfast,<br />
Berlin, Bristol, Faro,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Jersey,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN), Málaga,<br />
Majorca, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £17.<br />
Arriva Glasgow<br />
Flyer Bus leaves<br />
every 10 minutes.<br />
£4.20 single; £6.50<br />
open return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 The<br />
Chippy Doon the<br />
Lane (84 Buchanan<br />
Street, McCormick<br />
Lane, tel: 0141 225<br />
5615) Casual dining at<br />
its very best, serving up<br />
monkfi sh and lobster,<br />
alongside traditional<br />
cod and haddock. Dine<br />
out on the fi nest wine<br />
and Champagne at<br />
very reasonable prices.<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Bothy (11 Ruthven<br />
Lane, tel: 0845 166<br />
6032) Service at this<br />
reasonably priced<br />
restaurant is by kilted<br />
waiting staff . It has<br />
great grub: think fi sh<br />
and chips, haggis and<br />
neeps and bangers and<br />
mash. There is also a<br />
good á la carte evening<br />
and lunch menu plus<br />
chef’s specials.<br />
UP TO €50 The<br />
Corinthian Club (191<br />
Ingram Street, tel: 0141<br />
552 1101) Dine in one<br />
of the many diff erent<br />
themed bars and<br />
lounges throughout<br />
this amazing<br />
establishment. Topclass<br />
service makes<br />
eating out here an<br />
amazing experience.<br />
Just soak up the<br />
beauty of the place.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Gamba<br />
(225A West George<br />
Street, tel: 0141 572<br />
0899) This intimate<br />
basement restaurant,<br />
with friendly yet formal<br />
service, continues to be<br />
consistently excellent<br />
in serving unbeatable<br />
fi sh dishes. It has a<br />
strong reputation as<br />
one of the best seafood<br />
GRASSHOPPERS<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
In a prime citycentre<br />
location, this<br />
is a luxury hotel<br />
within easy reach<br />
of all Glaswegian<br />
tourist attractions.<br />
From €109, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
restaurants in the city,<br />
and off ers an à la carte<br />
menu, lunch menu<br />
and post- and pretheatre<br />
dining.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Lismore<br />
Bar (206 Dumbarton<br />
Road, tel: 0141 576<br />
0103) Near Kelvinhall<br />
tube station, this is<br />
the place to come if<br />
you fancy a fantastic<br />
whisky from a stock of<br />
125 diff erent varieties.<br />
It has an unusual<br />
interior, plus a great<br />
mix of folk music.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Barrowlands (244<br />
Gallowgate, tel: 0141<br />
552 4601) The worldfamous<br />
Barrowlands<br />
has had some of<br />
the most famous<br />
acts on stage – the<br />
legendary venue just<br />
oozes charisma.<br />
November sees Within<br />
Temptation, Friendly<br />
Fires, The Vaccines<br />
and Frank Turner<br />
treading the boards.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Viper Bar and<br />
Club (500 Great<br />
Western Road,<br />
Kelvinbridge, tel: 0141<br />
334 0560) The Viper<br />
is renowned as one of<br />
Glasgow’s best-loved<br />
student clubs and is<br />
found right in the heart<br />
of the West End. Enjoy<br />
DJs and live bands<br />
from 10.30pm–2am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Princes<br />
Square, just off<br />
Buchanan Street, is a<br />
beautiful, sophisticated<br />
shopping centre over<br />
three fl oors with<br />
a mix of shops from<br />
high-street brands<br />
and designer labels<br />
to independent<br />
boutiques. Plus it’s a<br />
great place to peoplewatch<br />
with a host of<br />
cafés, restaurants<br />
and bars.<br />
SEE The Hampden<br />
Experience at the<br />
Scottish Football<br />
museum boasts<br />
over 2,500 artefacts<br />
including the Scottish<br />
Cup. First won in<br />
1874, the trophy is<br />
offi cially the oldest<br />
national football<br />
trophy in the world<br />
(tel: 0141 616 6139).<br />
GO November is<br />
a bumper month<br />
for fantastic gigs<br />
at Glasgow’s Royal<br />
Concert Hall, with Tori<br />
Amos starting things<br />
off on 6 November<br />
and Eddie Reader<br />
plays on the 20th,<br />
plus there’s a host of<br />
classical concerts, too<br />
(tel: 0141 353 8000).<br />
ESCAPE Cameron<br />
House is a fi ve-star<br />
resort located on<br />
the bonnie banks of<br />
Loch Lomond just 30<br />
minutes from Glasgow.<br />
Try a round on their<br />
71-par championship<br />
course or their<br />
“manly” Glengoyne<br />
Whisky Afternoon Tea<br />
(tel: 01389 755 565).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Offi cial fi gures have<br />
confi rmed Glasgow’s<br />
status as one of the<br />
world’s top conference<br />
destinations, placing<br />
the city 29th in ICCA’s<br />
world rankings.<br />
Evelyn McKechnie<br />
Gothenburg<br />
Sweden<br />
DIALLING CODE +46<br />
CURRENCY Krona (SEK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about 320SEK.<br />
Flygbussarna<br />
buses depart<br />
every 30 minutes<br />
to the centre from<br />
4am–11pm. Tickets:<br />
150SEK return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Familjen (7 Arkivgatan,<br />
tel: 031 207 979) With<br />
an innovative take on<br />
traditional west-coast<br />
fare, this cosy venue<br />
is the perfect place<br />
for a casual dinner.<br />
The three-course<br />
set menu changes<br />
every two weeks.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Kometen (58<br />
Vasagatan, tel: 031 137<br />
988) Kometen was<br />
established in 1934 as<br />
a housing experiment<br />
– since the 20 fl ats<br />
in the house had no<br />
kitchen. The initiative<br />
failed, and the<br />
restaurant opened its<br />
doors to the public in<br />
1938. The traditional<br />
Scandinavian menu<br />
has captured the<br />
hearts of the Swedish<br />
cultural elite.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Two<br />
Little Birds (5 Andra<br />
Långgatan, tel: 031<br />
121 260) Enjoy organic<br />
sandwiches and<br />
rich, frothy, ethically<br />
sourced coff ee in this<br />
combined café and art<br />
gallery with a cosy yet<br />
stylish retro interior.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Nefertiti<br />
(6 Hvitfeldsplatsen)<br />
Established in 1978,<br />
this legendary jazz<br />
club is more popular<br />
than ever. Live bands<br />
and DJs play jazz,<br />
blues and tango as well<br />
as the latest electro,<br />
house, techno, indie<br />
and soul. The cave-like<br />
venue makes it a<br />
perfect refuge for rainy<br />
November nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE This autumn<br />
Göteborgs<br />
Konstmuseum is<br />
putting on a large<br />
exhibition covering<br />
the life and work of<br />
Swedish cartoonist<br />
Jan Lööf. Let the<br />
colourful playfulness<br />
bring out the child in<br />
you (Götaplatsen).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Gothenburg has over<br />
600km of bike lanes<br />
making it a perfect<br />
city to explore on<br />
two wheels.<br />
Hedvig Andersson<br />
The World of Personal Number Plates<br />
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GRAN CANARIA<br />
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Recommended in the Michelin Guide<br />
Air conditioning | Smoking allowed on the terrace<br />
Shopping Centre San Agustin, Level 2, Unit 82-85, Maspalomas<br />
OPEN DAILY FOR DINNER (6.30 PM - 11.30 PM)<br />
+34 928762915 | www.restaurantannodomini.com<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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handcrafted — just for you
140 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Gran Canaria<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Route 60 runs<br />
from 7am–11pm.<br />
Tickets: €2.50 (Parque<br />
Santa Catalina); €1.95<br />
(Parque San Telmo).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Las<br />
Camelias (5 Avenida<br />
Tirajana, Playa del<br />
Inglés, tel: 928 760<br />
236) Eat as much<br />
as you like at this<br />
extensive buff et, which<br />
includes platters of<br />
prawns, fi sh and meat,<br />
salads and a selection<br />
of potatoes, followed<br />
by pastries and fruits.<br />
Enough to satisfy the<br />
largest appetite.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Aquarela<br />
(Aquamarina,<br />
Patalavaca, tel: 928<br />
735 891) Aquarela<br />
is a truly exquisite<br />
restaurant. Its menu<br />
includes a delicious roll<br />
of roast beef stuff ed<br />
with foie gras royale,<br />
and a sautéed lobster<br />
noisette. The excellent<br />
food is complemented<br />
by the outstanding<br />
wine cellar and<br />
spectacular views.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Sugar<br />
Lounge (Centro<br />
Comercial Puerto<br />
Rico, 2nd Floor) Relax<br />
with a cocktail here,<br />
though, if you’re<br />
looking to get the<br />
party started, you<br />
should order the<br />
speciality – an unusual<br />
but delicious mix<br />
of strawberry, vodka<br />
and Red Bull.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Disco Jokers (Puerto<br />
Rico Shopping Centre)<br />
Dance until dawn in<br />
one of the wildest<br />
discos in Puerto Rico<br />
with top international<br />
DJs in a cosmopolitan<br />
atmosphere with<br />
elegant surroundings.<br />
Here every night is<br />
party night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE For sailing<br />
enthusiasts, the<br />
Arc race is not to be<br />
missed. Taking place<br />
on the last Sunday in<br />
November, you will<br />
see hundreds of<br />
yachts leaving Las<br />
Palmas de Gran<br />
Canaria and sailing off<br />
into the Caribbean.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Crime writer<br />
extraordinaire Agatha<br />
Christie often stayed in<br />
Las Palmas.<br />
Jan Cooney/<br />
sunnews.es<br />
Hamburg<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Manchester, London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €22.<br />
S1 S-Bahn<br />
trains run from<br />
4.30am–midnight.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Bavaria<br />
Blick (99 Bernhard-<br />
Nocht-Strasse, tel:<br />
040 3116 3116) The<br />
menu at this cosy<br />
eatery is incredibly<br />
tempting: it’s the<br />
perfect spot for a<br />
rainy winter’s night.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Fayette (30<br />
Zimmerstrasse, tel:<br />
040 225 630) Lovers<br />
of good German and<br />
European cuisine<br />
are in safe hands at<br />
La Fayette, a gorgeous<br />
venue next to<br />
the Alster Lake.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Layback<br />
(113 Lange Reihe,<br />
tel: 040 2805 6677)<br />
This stylish bar, in the<br />
shadow of the main<br />
train terminal, comes<br />
courtesy of a pair of<br />
Germans who honed<br />
their hospitality<br />
skills overseas. They<br />
have killer martinis<br />
including their own,<br />
the “Layback Martini”,<br />
made with Grey<br />
Goose vodka<br />
and frangelico.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Lola Kulturzentrum<br />
(8 Lohbrügger<br />
Landstrasse, tel: 040<br />
724 7735) The stately<br />
brick-clad façade<br />
belies the hubbub<br />
inside this popular<br />
venue in the eastern<br />
district of Bergdorf,<br />
which plays host to<br />
regular off erings<br />
of pop, folk and<br />
jazz concerts.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The petite<br />
Café du Passage on<br />
Lattenkampsteig is<br />
the secret hangout<br />
of writers and poets<br />
and stylish young<br />
mothers, who while<br />
away the hours<br />
browsing magazines<br />
and listening to<br />
melodic jazz (cafedu-passage.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Hamburg’s birth as<br />
a metropolis is fi rmly<br />
rooted in 7 May, 1189.<br />
That’s when Emperor<br />
Barbarossa declared<br />
seagoing merchants<br />
could use the city’s<br />
inland harbour and<br />
Elbe River to trade<br />
freely and without<br />
being taxed.<br />
Farhad Heydari<br />
Hurghada<br />
Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Sakalla is<br />
about EGP15, El Dahar<br />
EGP20, and further<br />
afi eld EGP30.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Da<br />
Nanni (La Perla Hotel,<br />
Hadaba Road, tel:<br />
065 344 7018) This<br />
classic Italian trattoria<br />
serves the best pizzas<br />
and pastas in town, as<br />
well as stone-grilled<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
bandera restaurante & tapas<br />
best tapas bar in Meloneras<br />
Di Vino (El Hadaba<br />
Road, tel: 010 138<br />
3147) Great food in<br />
an intimate, relaxed<br />
atmosphere. The<br />
rucola and blue<br />
cheese salad is divine,<br />
and the escalope is<br />
mouth-watering.<br />
CC OASIS BEACH, MAR MEDITERRÁNEO Nº 2 MELONERAS GRAN CANARIA<br />
<br />
QUOTE EJ TO RECEIVE A FREE BOTTLE OF WINE WITH YOUR MEAL!<br />
steaks, juicy salads and<br />
creamy tiramisu. There<br />
are smoking and nonsmoking<br />
areas, plus a<br />
playroom for the kids.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Grenada<br />
Bistro (Sheraton<br />
Road, Hadaba, tel: 010<br />
003 3464) Expect<br />
awesome views here<br />
and watch the light<br />
change as the sun<br />
sets. There’s a wide<br />
selection of local and<br />
international dishes<br />
– try the fajitas – plus<br />
a full drinks list and<br />
never-ending shisha!<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Havana Club<br />
(Opposite Dana<br />
Beach Hotel, tel: 065<br />
3460 401) This place<br />
rocks, especially<br />
at weekends, with<br />
regular, internationally<br />
renowned DJs spinning<br />
the tunes. Check<br />
listings for their famous<br />
foam parties and dance<br />
the night away, having<br />
outrageous fun.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Every craft<br />
is represented at<br />
the Akhenatoun,<br />
including papyrus,<br />
carpets, ceramics,<br />
and brassware.<br />
There’s a fantastic<br />
selection – but avoid<br />
the late-afternoon tour<br />
groups (2 Moubarak,<br />
El Kawther).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The date palm is<br />
valued for its fruit as<br />
well as its leaves that<br />
are used to make<br />
baskets and roofs.<br />
Denise Fletcher
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Innsbruck<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Bus F runs to<br />
the city every 15<br />
minutes. Tickets: €2.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Stiftskeller (1<br />
Stiftgasse, tel: 0512<br />
570 706) Lots of wood<br />
and a fi replace create<br />
a cosy atmosphere at<br />
this traditional eatery.<br />
Try the game served<br />
with cranberry sauce<br />
and fresh spaetzle<br />
or a trout fi llet with<br />
horseradish cream<br />
and toast.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Villa Blanka (8<br />
Weiherburggasse, tel:<br />
0512 276 070) Part<br />
of the local academy<br />
where the future star<br />
chefs are trained,<br />
this restaurant off ers<br />
the fi nest of the local<br />
cuisine: go for the<br />
canard breast with<br />
lemon risotto and<br />
a rose parfait<br />
with berries.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Magistrat (18 Maria<br />
Theresien Strasse,<br />
Centre, tel: 051 257<br />
3280) This Italianstyle<br />
bar with friendly<br />
staff off ers a variety<br />
of original Italian<br />
coff ee specialities,<br />
cocktails, beers and<br />
brandies, including<br />
delicious sandwiches<br />
or small pasta dishes.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Gössers (3 Adolf<br />
Pichler Platz, tel: 051<br />
257 2629) Beer and<br />
a lively atmosphere<br />
are the key words<br />
here. Each Thursday<br />
and Monday are<br />
cocktail nights: you<br />
can enjoy them all<br />
at only €5.50.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Interesting<br />
ecclesiastic<br />
exhibits of the late<br />
Romanesque and<br />
early Gothic styles<br />
are on show at the<br />
Ferdinandeum<br />
Museum. The<br />
exhibition shows<br />
Tyrolean frescoes,<br />
statues and jewellery<br />
of the 13th century.<br />
Throughout<br />
the month (15<br />
Museumstrasse,<br />
tel: 051 259 489).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The national hero<br />
Andreas Hofer, who<br />
led the rebellion<br />
against Napoleon,<br />
is buried at the<br />
Hofkirche church.<br />
Jovana Urosevic<br />
Inverness<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £19.<br />
Jet buses run<br />
to Nairns<br />
and Inverness.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Artysans (7 Strothers<br />
Lane, tel: 01463<br />
729 793) Stop off at<br />
Artysans for breakfast<br />
lunch or coff ee.<br />
Off ering full Scottish<br />
breakfasts, salads,<br />
main meals, cakes and<br />
deep-fi lled rolls, it is<br />
the perfect place to<br />
meet with friends for<br />
all occasions.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Chandlery<br />
Restaurant at The<br />
Maple Court Hotel<br />
(12 Ness Walk, tel:<br />
01463 230 330) Enjoy<br />
the delicious food<br />
and garden views in<br />
the restaurant at The<br />
Maple Court Hotel.<br />
Head chef Stevie<br />
Moff ett utilises the<br />
Original<br />
Italian Kitchen!<br />
fi nest local produce,<br />
preparing dishes with<br />
a European twist.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar One<br />
(1 Academy Street, tel:<br />
01463 714 471) If you<br />
are looking for a bar<br />
with a touch of class,<br />
head down to Bar One.<br />
Sumptuous cocktails<br />
are on the extensive<br />
drinks list and are<br />
shaken up by highly<br />
trained mixologists,<br />
however, if you fancy<br />
something unique,<br />
just ask!<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cake (Rose Street)<br />
Boasting the fi nest<br />
bass in the Highlands,<br />
whatever type of<br />
music you are into,<br />
you will be well<br />
catered for at Cake.<br />
With a well-stocked<br />
bar, great music and<br />
service, you are sure<br />
to have a great night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Wrap up warm<br />
and head on down<br />
to Bught Park on 5<br />
November for the<br />
annual Inverness<br />
Winter Festival.<br />
Entertainment includes<br />
Falcom Drummers<br />
and Fly Agaric Fire<br />
Twirlers and, of course,<br />
a fi rework display. The<br />
entertainment kicks<br />
off at 7.30pm.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In the mid-12th century<br />
King David built the<br />
fi rst stone castle of<br />
Inverness, which was<br />
destroyed in the Wars<br />
of Independence.<br />
Beverley Tricker<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 141<br />
Isle of Man<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £19.<br />
Buses run every<br />
half an hour<br />
to Douglas. Tickets:<br />
£2.30; single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Coast<br />
Bar and Brasserie<br />
(Loch Promenade,<br />
tel: 01624 698 888) A<br />
spacious restaurant<br />
THE SEFTON<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
In a Victorian<br />
building with a<br />
beautiful interior,<br />
this hotel combines<br />
elegance and<br />
beauty in Douglas.<br />
From €138, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Universitätsstraße 15b<br />
T: +43/512 587206<br />
with stunning sea<br />
views, where local<br />
fi sh and steaks are<br />
the specialities.<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
Gallery (Sefton Hotel,<br />
Harris Promenade, tel:<br />
01624 645 500) The<br />
modern menu at this<br />
restaurant, housed<br />
within a four-star<br />
hotel, aims to pack a<br />
punch with its fl avours.<br />
Tantalise your taste<br />
buds with fi ve-spiced<br />
duck breast with<br />
caramel sauce.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Creek Inn (The<br />
Quayside, tel: 01624<br />
842 216) A locals’<br />
favourite that provides<br />
a warm welcome on<br />
a winter’s night,<br />
off ering a selection<br />
of ales, including<br />
Manx brew Okells.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Colours Sports Bar<br />
(Palace Hotel & Casino,<br />
Central Promenade,<br />
Douglas, tel: 01624<br />
662 662) Multiple big<br />
screens attract sports<br />
fans to this hotel bar,<br />
which turns into a lively<br />
venue for socialising<br />
until 3.30am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Manx<br />
Museum’s Our<br />
Sporting Life exhibition<br />
celebrates the<br />
island’s sporting stars<br />
(Kingswood Grove,<br />
tel: 01624 648 000).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Manx Gaelic<br />
name for the island<br />
is Ellan Vannin.<br />
Kate Youde<br />
Starters - Pasta - Fish - Steaks - Sweets More than 250 diff erent Italian Wines! OPEN: Tue - Sat 11:30 - 24:00
142 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Istanbul<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY Lira (TRY)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London (LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about TRY50.<br />
E3 buses run<br />
hourly to<br />
Levent, from where<br />
the metro goes to<br />
Taksim Square.<br />
Tickets: TRY4.50<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Siirt<br />
Seref Buryan (4 Itfaiye<br />
Caddesi, tel: 0212 635<br />
8085) Situated on a<br />
quiet tree-lined square,<br />
Siirt Seref Buryan<br />
off ers specialities<br />
from the south-east<br />
Turkish district of Siirt.<br />
Go for something<br />
really unusual such as<br />
pit-roast lamb and “rice<br />
with curtains” – a spicy<br />
pilaf baked in pastry.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Pecheur (80 Yenikoy<br />
Caddesi, tel: 0212 262<br />
7070) Perched on the<br />
Bosphorus, this rather<br />
elegant fi sh restaurant<br />
off ers Turkish and<br />
<br />
<br />
French specialities.<br />
Book a table and<br />
sample dishes such<br />
as grilled sea bass<br />
and tasty moules<br />
marinières (mussels).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cafe<br />
Grand Boulevard<br />
(Hazzo Pulo Pasaji<br />
No 116 Hengecidi<br />
Sokak, tel: 0212 293<br />
3446) This brand new<br />
unlicensed café is<br />
located in the beautiful,<br />
historic Hazzopulu<br />
Pasaj. Pull up a chair<br />
and drink a strong hot<br />
cup of coff ee.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Ghetto (10 Kalyoncu<br />
Kulluk Sokak, tel:<br />
0212 251 7501) This<br />
concert hall has a faux<br />
19th-century style and<br />
off ers a selection of<br />
live music and latenight<br />
dancing events,<br />
as well as a lovely<br />
terrace restaurant.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO At 125 years old,<br />
Vefa Bozaci is Turkey’s<br />
oldest purveyor of<br />
Boza – a traditional<br />
drink made from<br />
fermented millet (104<br />
Katip Celebi Caddesi,<br />
vefa.com.tr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Most of Istanbul’s<br />
24,000-strong<br />
Jewish population are<br />
descendents of Jews<br />
expelled from Spain by<br />
the Spanish Inquisition<br />
in 1492. Many have<br />
Spanish sounding<br />
surnames and still<br />
speak a Spanish dialect<br />
known as “Ladino”.<br />
David O’Byrne<br />
Jersey<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Glasgow,<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (SEN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £16.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 De<br />
Gruchy’s Brasserie<br />
(King Street, St Helier,<br />
tel: 01534 818 818)<br />
The elegant brasserie<br />
on the ground fl oor of<br />
one of Jersey’s poshest<br />
stores, A de Gruchy, is<br />
open for breakfast and<br />
lunch and is popular<br />
with well-heeled<br />
shoppers. Light snacks<br />
include fi sh pie and<br />
seafood crêpe.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Saff rons (St Saviour’s<br />
Road, St Helier, tel:<br />
01534 614 450)<br />
A totally original<br />
restaurant in the Hotel<br />
de France, Saff rons<br />
combines fresh local<br />
produce with Indian<br />
spices. From the<br />
Tandoor, you can try<br />
the home smoked<br />
salmon with cucumber,<br />
red onion and dill<br />
raita with tamarind<br />
dressing. Follow with<br />
slow-cooked black<br />
cardamom-spiked<br />
venison faggot.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Trafalgar Hotel<br />
(Le Mont Vaux, St<br />
Brelade, tel: 01534<br />
741 334) Surrounded<br />
by restaurants, the<br />
comfortable, historic<br />
Trafalgar pub in St<br />
Aubin is a good place<br />
for a relaxing drink<br />
before dinner. The<br />
friendly atmosphere<br />
and quality beer<br />
attracts regulars<br />
and visitors.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Club 72 (69<br />
Esplanade, St Helier,<br />
tel: 01534 720 289)<br />
There’s live music<br />
most nights in this<br />
club close to the St<br />
Helier waterfront.<br />
Check the listings but<br />
Thursday is usually<br />
swing night, with<br />
cabaret on Friday<br />
and Saturday.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO You can stock up<br />
with cheeses, wine<br />
and other goodies<br />
on a day trip to the<br />
attractive French port<br />
of St Malo. The ferry<br />
takes about an hour<br />
(Condor Ferries, tel:<br />
08456 091 027).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Jersey’s only railway<br />
closed in 1936, but<br />
most of the eight-mile<br />
track is now used by<br />
cyclists and walkers.<br />
Peter Body<br />
Krakow<br />
Poland<br />
DIALLING CODE +48<br />
CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast (BFS),<br />
Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A taxi costs PLN80.<br />
Trains leave every<br />
30 minutes from<br />
4.30am–00.15am.<br />
Tickets: PLN6.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
U Babci Maliny (17<br />
Ulica Slawkowska, tel:<br />
012 422 7601) Expect<br />
great cuisine based on<br />
QUEEN<br />
BOUTIQUE<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
In the heart of<br />
Krakow, this hotel<br />
combines Polish<br />
tradition with<br />
modernity, visible<br />
in its design. From<br />
€56, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
the recipes of<br />
dear old Babci<br />
Maliny (translated<br />
as Grandma<br />
Raspberry) where<br />
the menu is full of<br />
hearty dishes to ward<br />
off the winter cold.<br />
UP TO €30 Miod<br />
Malina (40 Ulica<br />
Grodzka, tel: 012 430<br />
0411) Danny DeVito<br />
is among those who<br />
have tucked into the<br />
fodder here at Miod<br />
Malina. That said,<br />
the atmosphere<br />
is decidedly more<br />
homely than<br />
Hollywood glitz, with<br />
a rustic décor setting<br />
the tone and it serves<br />
Polish and Italian fare.<br />
UP TO €50 Hard<br />
Rock Cafe (Plac<br />
Mariacki, tel: 012 429<br />
1155) Regardless of<br />
whether you’ve seen it<br />
all before, this brandnew<br />
outlet does indeed<br />
boast one of the most<br />
sensational views in<br />
the city, making the<br />
second-fl oor bar and<br />
restaurant, with its<br />
sweeping panorama<br />
of St Mary’s, feel<br />
every inch a stairway<br />
to heaven.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Gessler we<br />
Francuskim (13 Ulica<br />
Pijarska) Irrepressible<br />
restaurateur Magda<br />
Gessler recently won<br />
a fi ve-star review from<br />
The Sunday Times’<br />
feared foodie AA Gill.<br />
With restaurants in<br />
Warsaw and London,<br />
now she’s trying to<br />
crack Krakow, setting<br />
up shop in the<br />
fancy fi n-de-siecle<br />
Hotel Francuski.
HAMBURG – ALL INCLUDED<br />
Hamburg’s must-see sights<br />
Alster Lake, Elbe River, Elbphilharmonic Hall, St. Pauli, BEATLEMANIA<br />
Hamburg’s Culture<br />
Hamburg State Opera, Hamburg Art Gallery, Bucerius Art Forum<br />
Hamburg’s Shopping<br />
Mönckebergstrasse, Neuer Wall, Karolinenviertel, Schanze<br />
Hamburg’s Port<br />
Historic Warehouses, Harbour City, Miniature Wonderland<br />
Hamburg’s Events 201<br />
DOM Beer Festival, Port’s Birthday, ELBJAZZ, Reeperbahn Festival<br />
Fish Market Experience Hamburg<br />
– incl. one night at the hotel of your choice<br />
– incl. breakfast<br />
– incl. captain´s brunch in the fish auction hall<br />
– incl. two-hour harbour boat trip<br />
– incl. Hamburg-CARD – your discovery ticket<br />
– incl. 15% discount at selected restaurants<br />
Information and bookings.<br />
+49 (0)40.300 51 300<br />
www.hamburg-tourism.de<br />
from 109 *,– €<br />
*Price p. p. in a double<br />
Wenn nach Hamburg, dann mit uns.
144 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Krakow<br />
Poland<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Mostowa<br />
ArtCafe (8 Ulica<br />
Mostowa) The hip<br />
Kazimierz district has a<br />
hive of inviting bars and<br />
cafés. This new kid on<br />
the block is a bar and<br />
gallery rolled into one,<br />
with a carefully chosen<br />
range of bottled beers<br />
and Polish fruit wines.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Harris Piano Jazz<br />
(28 Rynek Glowny,<br />
tel: 012 421 5741)<br />
There’s barely enough<br />
room to swing a sax<br />
in here, but that adds<br />
to the atmosphere of<br />
Krakow’s most famous<br />
jazz club. Get there<br />
early and you might<br />
just be able to grab<br />
a much sought after<br />
spot on the balcony.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Prozak (6 Plac<br />
Dominikanski, tel: 012<br />
429 1128) Remains<br />
one of the most<br />
redoubtable ports of<br />
call for frisky Friday<br />
night frolics. House,<br />
hip hop and more<br />
inside a labyrinth of<br />
subterranean rooms.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Pick yourself<br />
out a glossy memento<br />
of your stay at House of<br />
Albums, which boasts<br />
all kinds of treats for<br />
the bibliophile, with<br />
books on Krakow,<br />
Poland and beyond (17<br />
Ulica Zwierzyniecka).<br />
SEE The Krakus<br />
Mound, the southern<br />
district of Podgorze<br />
now also contains the<br />
newly modernised<br />
Schindler Factory<br />
Museum, which is<br />
well-worth a visit. The<br />
newly built pedestrian<br />
bridge connects this<br />
district to Kazimierz for<br />
a picturesque return<br />
across the Vistula River,<br />
too (4 Lipowa Street).<br />
GO For the fi rst<br />
week of November<br />
graveyards across<br />
the country fl icker<br />
with thousands of<br />
candles with the<br />
coming of All Saints<br />
Day and All Souls (1–2<br />
November). Romantic<br />
travellers should<br />
head for the 19thcentury<br />
necropolis<br />
of Rakowicki, where<br />
tombs of artists,<br />
writers and war heroes<br />
jostle side by side.<br />
ESCAPE Banking on<br />
wonderful weather is<br />
unwise in November,<br />
so your safest bet for<br />
a day-trip would be<br />
the UNESCO World<br />
Heritage-listed salt<br />
mines at Wieliczka.<br />
The guided tour can<br />
drag in places, but it’s<br />
worth it to see vasr<br />
chapel of St Kinga –<br />
all carved from salt.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Krakow has a clutch<br />
of catacombs where<br />
a rare microclimate<br />
has preserved a<br />
parade of mummies<br />
for posterity. Tags tell<br />
eerie tales behind each<br />
corpse. The crypts<br />
are only open to the<br />
public on 2 November,<br />
so as to preserve<br />
the mummies.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
cracow-life.com<br />
WHERE HAMBURG AND<br />
THE WORLD GET TOGETHER<br />
www.grand-elysee.com<br />
Lamezia<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Routes 4 and<br />
5 go to the city<br />
centre throughout the<br />
day. Tickets: €0.77.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Ristorante La<br />
Tavernetta (12<br />
Contrada Campo San<br />
Lorenzo, tel: 0984<br />
579 026) There is no<br />
shortage of goodquality<br />
restaurants in<br />
Camigliatello, but chef<br />
Pietro’s La Tavernetta<br />
is probably the best.<br />
Try anything with<br />
porcini mushrooms<br />
and prepare to be<br />
impressed by the<br />
sumptuous fl avours.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Abbruzzino (Località<br />
S Janni, tel: 0961<br />
799 008) This<br />
restaurant, owned by<br />
Calabrian-born chef<br />
Antonio Abbruzzino,<br />
is one of the most<br />
opulent restaurants<br />
in Catanzaro. There’s<br />
a fi ve-, six- or sevencourse<br />
tasting menu<br />
to choose from and<br />
you can watch the chef<br />
perform behind glass.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Gran<br />
Caff è Renzelli (46<br />
Corso Telesio, tel: 098<br />
426 814) This is the<br />
original Gran Caff è<br />
Renzelli, it’s located a<br />
block from the Duomo<br />
and is the place to<br />
go in Cosenza for an<br />
evening aperitivo or<br />
after-dinner drinks.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
City Bar (8–10 Via<br />
A Barbaro, tel: 096<br />
106 1279) City Bar<br />
in Catanzaro hosts a<br />
variety of live music<br />
and aperitivi events<br />
and is a really fun<br />
place to relax with<br />
friends after a day out<br />
sightseeing in the city.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Look for the big<br />
mushroom on the<br />
main street in Villagio<br />
Mancuso and inside<br />
you’ll fi nd “Solo Funghi”.<br />
It’s a mushroom-lovers<br />
pot of gold and a must<br />
for all gourmands –<br />
they sell both dried and<br />
sott’olio mushrooms<br />
(Villaggio Mancuso).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Calabria is Italy’s<br />
largest producer of<br />
dried porcini. The<br />
mushrooms are<br />
prized all over the<br />
world for their rich,<br />
earthy fl avour and<br />
delicious aroma.<br />
Cherrye Moore/<br />
my-bellavita.com<br />
Lanzarote<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Madrid<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €12.<br />
On routes 22 and<br />
23, buses stop at<br />
Playa del Reducto and<br />
Arrecife’s bus station.<br />
Tickets: €1.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ca’Pipo<br />
(5C Centro Comercial<br />
Hiperdino, tel: 928 518<br />
225) With its incredibly<br />
cheap menu anticrisi<br />
and delicious tapas,<br />
Ca’Pipo off ers one of<br />
the best value-formoney<br />
lunches<br />
on the island.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Cabaña (Macher)<br />
English chef Darren<br />
Spurr off ers some of<br />
the most immaculately<br />
presented and<br />
seriously tasty<br />
international cuisine<br />
on the island. This is<br />
without doubt one<br />
of Lanzarote’s<br />
fi nest restaurants.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Yum<br />
Yum (Avenida<br />
Maritima) Enjoy a<br />
chilled-out Mojito<br />
at Yum Yum while<br />
you enjoy the<br />
beautiful views of<br />
Fuerteventura. Relax<br />
and watch the boats<br />
come and go at this<br />
laidback hangout.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Tropical (Centro<br />
Atlantico, Avenida de<br />
las Playas) The latest<br />
incarnation of Puerto<br />
del Carmen’s largest<br />
disco space, Tropical<br />
plays commercial<br />
house music until well<br />
into the early hours.<br />
Fans of dance music<br />
will fi nd plenty here.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although Lanzarote<br />
was actually one of the<br />
last of the Canaries to<br />
start producing wine,<br />
it is now home to the<br />
oldest working winery<br />
in the region.<br />
Ashley Wootton/<br />
DiscoverLanzarote.com<br />
CUEVA DE<br />
LOS VERDES<br />
GO Cueva de los<br />
Verdes was formed<br />
some 3,000 years<br />
ago during the<br />
eruptions of the<br />
nearby Corona<br />
volcano. It’s one of<br />
the longest volcanic<br />
tunnels in the world.
146 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Lisbon<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Barcelona,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Lyon, Madeira, Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris<br />
(CDG), Rome, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
between €15 and €25.<br />
The Aerobus<br />
leaves every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €3.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
A Licorista (222 Rua<br />
dos Sapateiros, tel: 21<br />
343 1415) Just through<br />
the archway on the<br />
south side of Rossio<br />
Square, this is a cheap<br />
and bustling, authentic<br />
Portuguese restaurant.<br />
Head to A Licorista<br />
for its no-frills but<br />
pleasant atmosphere<br />
and brisk service.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Picanha das Janelas<br />
Verdes (96 Rua<br />
das Janelas Verdes,<br />
tel: 21 397 5401)<br />
Picanha is a delicious<br />
cut of Brazilian beef<br />
traditionally served<br />
with black beans.<br />
This new restaurant is<br />
dedicated to this and<br />
other specialities from<br />
the other side of the<br />
Atlantic. The menu<br />
includes a light version<br />
of the dish and also<br />
a seafood version.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
A Travessa (12<br />
Travessa do Convento<br />
das Bernardas, tel:<br />
21 390 2034) A longestablishedBelgianrun<br />
restaurant,<br />
A Travessa has a<br />
deserved reputation<br />
for its thoughtful<br />
cuisine. The location’s<br />
a real treat, too – a<br />
17th-century convent<br />
and cloister for<br />
outside dining when<br />
the weather is fi ne.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Bico<br />
do Sapato (Avenida<br />
Infante Dom Henrique,<br />
Santa Apolónia, tel:<br />
21 881 0320) This<br />
fantastically glitzy<br />
restaurant has been<br />
VIP INN<br />
BERNA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Within easy reach of<br />
Lisbon’s historical<br />
and fi nancial<br />
centres and<br />
airport, this hotel is<br />
convenient for all.<br />
From €40, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
going for quite a few<br />
years now, but it is<br />
still the place where<br />
the glitterati come<br />
to enjoy modern<br />
Portuguese cuisine<br />
and sushi. Its elite<br />
reputation may be due<br />
to the fact that actor<br />
John Malkovich is one<br />
of the partners.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Chafariz<br />
do Vinho (Rua Mãe<br />
D’Água, tel: 21 342<br />
2079) Unusually<br />
located in an 18thcentury<br />
water cistern,<br />
this fascinating space<br />
is dedicated to wine.<br />
Visit for its quirky<br />
surroundings and a<br />
wonderful selection<br />
of good wines.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Grapes and Bites<br />
(81 Rua do Norte, tel:<br />
91 936 1171) A new<br />
venue in the heart of<br />
the bustling Bairro<br />
Alto with a good<br />
selection of wines,<br />
cocktails, bar food and<br />
with live music every<br />
night from 10pm.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Spock (34 Rua de<br />
São Bento, tel: 21 807<br />
8509) A beautiful<br />
and highly cool<br />
new bar boasting a<br />
selection of smallish<br />
rooms, each with a<br />
diff erent atmosphere.<br />
Also come here for<br />
occasional live music,<br />
fi lm sessions and<br />
fashion shows.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP With<br />
Christmas on the<br />
horizon, and perhaps<br />
with little ones to be<br />
provided with gifts, A<br />
Vida Portuguesa has a<br />
selection of traditional<br />
Portuguese toys, which<br />
are sure to delight and<br />
amaze. There’s nice<br />
stuff for grown-ups,<br />
too (11 Rua Anchieta).<br />
SEE Check out<br />
the second part of<br />
the Gulbenkian’s<br />
acclaimed still-life<br />
exhibition, In the<br />
Presence of Things,<br />
which continues<br />
throughout the month<br />
(43A Avenida de Berna,<br />
tel: 21 782 3000).<br />
GO It’s easy to get<br />
lost in the labyrinthine<br />
alleys of the largely<br />
traffi c-free Alfama<br />
district but the<br />
occasional glimpse<br />
of the Tagus, the<br />
discovery of a quiet<br />
square or a simple<br />
taverna make a<br />
wander through its<br />
vertiginous streets a<br />
rewarding experience.<br />
ESCAPE Pay a visit<br />
to the gardens of<br />
Monserrate in Sintra,<br />
originally laid out by<br />
English writer and<br />
collector, William<br />
Beckford in the late<br />
18th century, followed<br />
by afternoon tea at the<br />
stupendous Seteais<br />
Palace Hotel. You can<br />
get there in under<br />
an hour by train or<br />
car from Lisbon.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Águas Livres<br />
Aqueduct is said to<br />
be the largest stone<br />
structure in Europe<br />
and, amazingly, it<br />
survived the 1755<br />
earthquake unscathed.<br />
Jonathan Weightman<br />
Liverpool<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bodrum,<br />
Bordeaux, Brussels,<br />
Faro, Fuerteventura,<br />
Geneva, Gibraltar,<br />
Grenoble, Ibiza,<br />
Innsbruck, Isle of<br />
Man, Jersey, Krakow,<br />
Lanzarote, Lisbon,<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta,<br />
Menorca, Naples, Nice,<br />
Paris (CDG), Rhodes,<br />
Salzburg, Tallinn<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £15.<br />
The 500 departs<br />
every 30<br />
minutes for the city<br />
centre. Tickets: £2.60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Mezzanine Cafe Bar<br />
(Liverpool Cathedral,<br />
tel: 0151 709 6271)<br />
Munch on salads with<br />
speciality breads<br />
and freshly made<br />
pastries while<br />
looking out across<br />
the heavenly central<br />
space of the world’s<br />
fi fth-largest cathedral.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Eastzeast (Kings<br />
Dock, tel: 0151 707<br />
9377) The fourth<br />
branch of this<br />
upmarket Indian<br />
restaurant is on the<br />
waterfront. Eastzeast<br />
mixes modern décor<br />
with traditional<br />
Punjabi cuisine, with<br />
plenty of spicy and<br />
creamy curries.<br />
UP TO €50 Caveau<br />
(59 Allerton Road,<br />
Woolton, tel: 0151<br />
428 6966) Chef Dave<br />
Roberts has been<br />
serving fi ne French<br />
cuisine for more than<br />
30 years. His latest<br />
reincarnation, in<br />
lovely Woolton<br />
village, is attracting<br />
enthusiastic reviews.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Marco Pierre White<br />
Steakhouse Bar &<br />
Grill (10 Chapel Street,<br />
tel: 0151 559 0555)<br />
Another restaurant<br />
from star chef Marco<br />
Pierre White provides<br />
the focal point of a<br />
boutique hotel in the<br />
commercial district. It<br />
promises “aff ordable<br />
glamour” and steaks<br />
such as a 16oz,<br />
28-day aged T-bone<br />
with chips cooked<br />
in beef dripping.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Grapes (60 Roscoe<br />
Street, tel: 0151 708<br />
6870) With its quirky<br />
and atmospheric<br />
surroundings, this<br />
family-run pub in the<br />
Georgian quarter<br />
is popular with
DIRECTORY | UK CHRISTMAS MARKETS<br />
<br />
Unique gifts, festive treats and food for everyone to<br />
enjoy in the heart of London’s riverside cultural quarter.<br />
The Cologne Christmas Market 18 November – 24 December<br />
Winter Tea & Coffee Festival 18 – 20 November<br />
‘Free From’ Food Festival 25 – 27 November<br />
Real Food Christmas Markets 2 – 4 & 16 – 23 December<br />
Christmas Chocolate Festival 9 – 11 December<br />
0844 847 9910<br />
southbankcentre.co.uk<br />
CHRISTMAS IN LIVERPOOL IS ALWAYS A MAGICAL OCCASION BUT THIS YEAR’S<br />
FESTIVITIES WILL SHINE ON BRIGHTER THAN EVER BEFORE.<br />
Boasting brand new decorations, the city centre will be bedecked with its biggest Christmas<br />
lights display to guide you on your shopping way.<br />
Liverpool’s Christmas Market is set to be its best yet featuring more than 50 of the fi nest craft<br />
and food stalls from across fi ve continents, off ering treats from as far as China and South<br />
America to a traditional German glühwein bar. A Curious Garden also awaits you...!<br />
So, go on, treat yourself. Visit Liverpool. It’s Christmas.<br />
LIVERPOOL’S KEY CHRISTMAS HIGHLIGHTS:<br />
CHRISTMAS GROTTO – Rapid, 4th fl oor: Nov 5 – Dec 24. £5 per child / 60p for adults.<br />
CLAYTON SQUARE XMAS WORKSHOPS – Every Thurs, Fri, Sat – Nov 24 – Dec 17. FREE.<br />
CHRISTMAS MARKET – Lord Street, Church Street, Whitechapel: Nov 24 – Dec 22.<br />
CURIOUS GARDEN – Williamson Square: Dec 1 – Jan 5. £4.99 per child. Adults – FREE.<br />
CINDERELLA – Rock ‘N Roll Panto, Liverpool Playhouse: Dec 3 – Jan 21.<br />
SNOW WHITE – Royal Court – Roe Street: Dec 9 – Jan 8.<br />
Visit www.citycentralbid.com to fi nd out more.
148 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Liverpool<br />
England<br />
real ale lovers. It<br />
features jazz nights<br />
and 12 varieties of gin.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Philharmonic Hall<br />
(Hope Street, tel: 0151<br />
709 3789) November’s<br />
musical off erings at<br />
the splendid art deco<br />
hall include Englebert<br />
Humperdinck and<br />
Grammy awardwinning<br />
Toumani<br />
Diabate. Home to the<br />
world-renowned Royal<br />
Liverpool Philharmonic<br />
Orchestra, it also hosts<br />
comedy and fi lms.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Krazyhouse (16<br />
Wood Street, tel: 0151<br />
708 5016) With doors<br />
open from 10pm to<br />
4am and a bar until<br />
6am, you really can<br />
party all night at one of<br />
the longest-established<br />
and most diverse<br />
nightclubs in town.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Almost as<br />
legendary on the<br />
Liverpool musical<br />
scene as the Beatles,<br />
Probe has fed a broad<br />
range of alternative<br />
tastes for four decades.<br />
Vinyl is venerated,<br />
but they also stock a<br />
comprehensive range<br />
of CDs covering psych,<br />
prog, soul, funk, punk<br />
and many more (The<br />
Bluecoat, School Lane,<br />
tel: 0151 708 8815).<br />
SEE A major<br />
exhibition revealing<br />
the life of the dinosaur<br />
65 million years ago<br />
leaves London for<br />
the fi rst time. Sights,<br />
sounds and smells<br />
of the Jurassic and<br />
Cretaceous periods<br />
include life-like<br />
animatronic dinosaurs<br />
and real dinosaur<br />
poo (World Museum,<br />
William Brown Street,<br />
tel: 0151 478 4393).<br />
ESCAPE If you love<br />
designer clothes<br />
but hate the prices,<br />
Cheshire Oaks is<br />
for you. At the UK’s<br />
biggest fashion outlet<br />
village, 145 stores off er<br />
permanent reductions<br />
on designer goods,<br />
from diamond rings<br />
to dungarees. It’s<br />
about 45 minutes<br />
from Liverpool (Kinsey<br />
Road, Ellesmere Port,<br />
tel: 0151 348 5600).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Liverpool’s Gladstone<br />
Dock was home to the<br />
world’s fi rst port radar<br />
system. Installed in<br />
1948, it allowed the<br />
monitoring of shipping<br />
in the River Mersey and<br />
approach channels.<br />
Gerry Corner<br />
SEFTON<br />
COASTAL PATH<br />
GO A coastline<br />
featuring beaches,<br />
impressive sunsets<br />
and sculptor Anthony<br />
Gormley’s 100 iron<br />
men is a 15-minute<br />
train ride from the<br />
city centre (Sefton<br />
Coastal Path).<br />
Ljubljana<br />
Slovenia<br />
DIALLING CODE +386<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (STN),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
around €45.<br />
Buses leave<br />
every hour till<br />
8pm. Tickets: €4.10.<br />
Visit the<br />
Europcar desk for<br />
special easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Cutty<br />
Sark (1 Knafl jev<br />
Prehod, tel: 01 425<br />
1477) Long held as the<br />
city’s favourite ex-pat<br />
pub, this friendly<br />
city-centre oasis also<br />
attracts plenty of<br />
locals. They come for<br />
the beer and the<br />
decent pizzas.<br />
EXCLUSIVE River<br />
House (31 Gallusovo<br />
Nabrezje, tel: 01 425<br />
4090) No staid old<br />
timer, this fresh,<br />
young restaurant<br />
off ers quality and a bit<br />
of a funky vibe down<br />
by the river in the Old<br />
Town. Enjoy properly<br />
cooked pasta,<br />
excellent fi sh from<br />
Slovenia’s Adriatic<br />
coastline and some<br />
lovely wines.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Neboticnik (1<br />
Štefanova, tel: 040 60<br />
1787) You don’t have<br />
to order food to get<br />
the chance to summit<br />
what was once<br />
Yugoslavia’s tallest<br />
building. They have<br />
a café at Neboticnik,<br />
so you can just chill<br />
out and take in the<br />
city skyline over<br />
a cup of coff ee.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Ultra Club (6<br />
Nazorjeva) This<br />
popular club may<br />
attract mostly locals,<br />
but it’s a friendly place<br />
so you should feel<br />
welcome, especially<br />
if you enjoy fun<br />
dance music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Head to the Art<br />
Nouveau Quarter,<br />
which is a charming<br />
oasis right in the city<br />
centre. Make sure to<br />
look up to view the<br />
architecture as you<br />
walk along Miklosiceva.<br />
The ornate art<br />
nouveau touches are<br />
unmistakable as are<br />
the distinctive, bright<br />
colour schemes.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
France Preseren is<br />
Slovenia’s romantic<br />
and tragic poet whose<br />
odes to lost love<br />
have captured the<br />
national heart. His<br />
A Toast even became<br />
the national<br />
anthem in 1989.<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
London<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Aberdeen, Agadir,<br />
Alicante, Almería,<br />
Amman, Amsterdam,<br />
Antalya, Asturias,<br />
Athens, Barcelona,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />
Belfast, Biarritz, Bilbao,<br />
Bodrum, Bologna,<br />
Bordeaux, Budapest,<br />
Cagliari (Sardinia),<br />
Catania, Cologne/<br />
Bonn, Copenhagen,<br />
Corfu, Corsica (Ajaccio),<br />
Corsica (Bastia),<br />
Crete (Chania), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Corfu,<br />
Cyprus (Larnaca),<br />
Cyprus (Paphos),<br />
Dalaman, Dortmund,<br />
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />
Gibraltar, Glasgow,<br />
Gothenburg, Gran<br />
Canaria, Grenoble,<br />
Hamburg, Hurghada,<br />
Ibiza, Innsbruck,<br />
Istanbul, Inverness,<br />
Izmir, Jersey, Kos,<br />
Krakow, Lanzarote,<br />
La Rochelle, Lisbon,<br />
Ljubljana, Luxor, Lyon,<br />
Madeira, Madrid,<br />
Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Malta, Marrakech,<br />
Marseille, Menorca,<br />
Milan (MXP, LIN),<br />
Montpellier, Munich,<br />
Murcia, Mykonos,<br />
Nantes, Naples, Nice,<br />
Olbia, Palermo, Paris<br />
(CDG), Pisa, Porto,<br />
Prague, Rhodes,<br />
Rome, Salzburg,<br />
Santorini, Seville,<br />
Sharm El Sheikh, Sofi a,<br />
Split, Tallinn, Tel Aviv,<br />
Tenerife, Thessaloniki,<br />
Toulouse, Valencia,<br />
Venice, Verona, Vienna,<br />
Zagreb, Zante, Zürich<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
LUTON<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £100.<br />
National Express<br />
tickets can be<br />
bought onboard.<br />
Tickets: £14 single;<br />
£19 return. Ask your<br />
cabin crew for details.<br />
Trains from Luton<br />
Airport Parkway<br />
go to London St<br />
Pancras. Tickets: £12<br />
(fi rstcapital<br />
connect.co.uk).<br />
GATWICK<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
£100 to London.<br />
The Gatwick<br />
Express to<br />
London Victoria runs<br />
every 15 minutes from<br />
4.35am–1.35am.<br />
Exclusive easyJet<br />
discounted fares<br />
available when<br />
you buy onboard.<br />
SOUTHEND<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
£115 to London.<br />
Up to eight trains<br />
an hour run<br />
to Liverpool Street.<br />
Tickets: £14 single.<br />
STANSTED<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
£120 to London.<br />
National Express<br />
runs a bus service<br />
to London Victoria.<br />
Tickets: £17 return.
The Skin Oasis clinic in<br />
London’s West end. We<br />
are able to advise and<br />
treat all your skin and<br />
beauty needs.<br />
Our experienced<br />
Doctors, Nurses and<br />
Therapists will help<br />
you to rediscover<br />
and maintain your<br />
natural beauty. Many<br />
laser and medical<br />
treatments including<br />
Skin rejuvenation, sun<br />
damage, aging, acne,<br />
Laser hair removal,<br />
Laser Lipo, minor<br />
surgery, wrinkle<br />
treatments, Fillers,<br />
Microdermabrasion<br />
and Hydrafacial at our<br />
beautiful clinic fully<br />
CQC registered.<br />
020 7486 5134<br />
0845 094 2015<br />
www.skin-oasis.co.uk<br />
CHECK OUR WEBSITE<br />
FOR GREAT OFFERS<br />
We can’t guarantee sunshine<br />
all day We can guarantee<br />
faster just got better<br />
Brand new trains have arrived<br />
Stansted Airport direct to central London<br />
Fast and fuss free every 15 minutes*<br />
*Early and late trains are every 30 minutes.<br />
For detailed timetable information visit stanstedexpress.com<br />
Buy your discounted<br />
tickets on board now<br />
fastersgettingbetter.com
150 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
London<br />
England<br />
The Stansted<br />
Express runs<br />
every 15 minutes until<br />
00.30am. Exclusive<br />
easyJet discounted<br />
fares available when<br />
you buy onboard.<br />
For transport in<br />
London, Oyster<br />
cards are available to<br />
with £20 of credit. Buy<br />
on board, tickets: £23.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Satsuma (56 Wardour<br />
Street, W1, tel: 020<br />
7437 3389) Famed<br />
for its katsu curry, this<br />
Japanese restaurant<br />
has just had a refurb<br />
and has great satsumacoloured<br />
booths to<br />
dine in. A katsu curry<br />
is a must, as the menu<br />
has more than 10<br />
varieties on off er, but<br />
also try a selection<br />
of tempura and the<br />
miso aubergine to<br />
start your meal.<br />
UP TO €30 Wright<br />
Brothers (13 Kingly<br />
Street, W1, tel: 020<br />
7434 3611) One of<br />
the fi rst importers of<br />
oysters to the city, the<br />
Wright Brothers have<br />
a popular outpost on<br />
Borough market, but<br />
this opening is a nice<br />
mix for those who are<br />
not as keen on the<br />
molluscs. The delightful<br />
fi sh restaurant boasts<br />
great half pints of<br />
prawns and fabulous<br />
daily specials.<br />
UP TO €50 Ora (6<br />
Little Portland Street,<br />
W1, tel: 020 7637 0125)<br />
For genuine Thai food<br />
just a hop from Oxford<br />
Circus, Ora is your best<br />
bet. In a warm, low-lit<br />
basement the perfectly<br />
attentive staff will be<br />
happy to tell diners<br />
what to order. Those<br />
who listen will<br />
be rewarded with<br />
delicious calamari and<br />
a fi ery red curry.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Yauatcha (15–17<br />
Broadwick Street,<br />
W1, tel: 020 8968<br />
0202) Delicate dim<br />
sum and seafood<br />
dishes are what won<br />
the restaurant a<br />
Michelin star when it<br />
opened in 2004. The<br />
experience has only<br />
been improved since<br />
then, and as you graze<br />
through dish after<br />
dish of dim sum – the<br />
fi nest with venison –<br />
sip light Chinese teas<br />
while gazing at the<br />
fi sh tank, which runs<br />
under the bar.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Village<br />
East (171 Bermondsey<br />
Street, SE1, tel: 020<br />
7357 6082) A chilledout<br />
bar-restaurant<br />
close to London<br />
Bridge in an old cloth<br />
factory warehouse.<br />
Take the load off your<br />
feet down this quiet<br />
street and choose<br />
a luscious cocktail,<br />
wine or beer from the<br />
extensive menu, or for<br />
the brave there’s<br />
a 20-strong vodka list.<br />
LIVE MUSIC The<br />
Garage (20–22<br />
Highbury Corner, N5,<br />
tel: 020 7619 6721)<br />
The Garage presents<br />
nightly live music of all<br />
genres up on Highbury<br />
corner, a perfect<br />
location, not far from<br />
the bars of Angel. Enjoy<br />
indie, rock and techno<br />
music, plus DJ sets and<br />
weekly club nights.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Volupté (9 Norwich<br />
Street, EC4, tel: 020<br />
7831 1622) One of<br />
the capital’s gems,<br />
if you like your<br />
late-night supper<br />
clubs to be a mix of<br />
fl air and fl irtatious<br />
fl amboyance. Ground<br />
level is a chic and<br />
atmospheric cocktail<br />
bar; downstairs is an<br />
intimate showcase for<br />
fi ne dining followed<br />
by the best cabaret,<br />
burlesque and tonguein-cheek<br />
decadence.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Bicester Village<br />
is just an hour from the<br />
centre of London, and<br />
can be combined with<br />
a trip to Oxford. For 15<br />
years this shopping<br />
village has been<br />
selling great brands<br />
GRANGE TOWER<br />
BRIDGE HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Opened in June, this<br />
hotel has a variety<br />
of modern facilities<br />
and is situated in<br />
London’s famous<br />
Tower Bridge district.<br />
From €165, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
at bargain prices. The<br />
outlet houses top UK<br />
fashion names such as<br />
Dunhill, Mulberry, Paul<br />
Smith and Alexander<br />
McQueen, among<br />
others (Bicester).<br />
SEE Until 26<br />
November, catch the<br />
Playboy of the Western<br />
World at the Old<br />
Vic. One of Ireland’s<br />
greatest plays,<br />
performed under John<br />
Crowley’s direction,<br />
the play follows the<br />
troubled times of<br />
Christy, a young man<br />
who has apparently<br />
just killed his father<br />
(The Cut, SE1).<br />
GO Find everything<br />
you need at upmarket<br />
Bond Street in the<br />
West End. Steeped<br />
in London history,<br />
its renowned as the<br />
place to go for couture<br />
fashion by designers<br />
including Chanel and<br />
Alexander McQueen.<br />
A host of shops,<br />
restaurants, museums<br />
and beauty salons are<br />
sure to catch your eye.<br />
ESCAPE Head off for<br />
the day to Cambridge,<br />
the famous university<br />
city just 90 minutes<br />
from London. As well as<br />
being able to soak up<br />
the student life, visitors<br />
may also go to the<br />
Fitzwilliam Museum,<br />
a grand building with<br />
an extensive range<br />
of art and artefacts<br />
(Trumpington Street).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Arsenal is the only<br />
football club to have<br />
its own, eponymous<br />
tube station.<br />
Amy Dennis<br />
Luxor<br />
Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
50LE to the East<br />
Bank, and 100LE<br />
to the West Bank.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Nile<br />
Valley (Near the ferry,<br />
tel: 010 618 5684)<br />
Perfectly located on<br />
the banks of the Nile,<br />
with a panoramic view<br />
overlooking Luxor<br />
temple, this is a great<br />
place for a meal.The<br />
menu features<br />
a mixture of Egyptian<br />
and international<br />
dishes, with regional<br />
specialities such as<br />
stuff ed pigeon.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
1886 Restaurant<br />
Old Winter Palace<br />
(Corniche el Nile,<br />
tel: 095 238 0422)<br />
This wonderful hotel<br />
was the home of the<br />
upper-class tourist<br />
in the days of Agatha<br />
Christie and Lord<br />
Carnarvon. The wines<br />
are expensive but the<br />
food is surprisingly<br />
reasonable, though it’s<br />
Do you own a holiday let, commercial<br />
property or buy-to-lets?<br />
Yes? The taxman could owe you money.<br />
still a special place for<br />
a special meal. Formal<br />
dress required.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Space<br />
Observers Luxor<br />
(Desert, tel: 010 606<br />
0319) Explore the<br />
wonders of space and<br />
the night sky of Egypt.<br />
This unique experience<br />
takes place in a remote<br />
desert location with<br />
state-of-the-art GPS<br />
telescopes. You’ll need<br />
to call ahead and ask<br />
for a pick-up.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Tutotel Disco (Sharia<br />
Salah ad-Din, tel: 095<br />
237 7990) The disco<br />
is located in the cellar<br />
of this building, and<br />
it is one of the most<br />
popular dancing<br />
places in town.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The tomb of<br />
Ramose in the Valley<br />
of Nobles is unique,<br />
having both the<br />
traditional Pharaoh<br />
Amenhotep III and the<br />
“heretic” Akhenaton<br />
with his wife Nefertiti<br />
depicted. It also has<br />
the most exquisite<br />
limestone carving,<br />
wonderful colourful<br />
pictures and as it is<br />
unfi nished, there<br />
are guidelines for<br />
the artists.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
At the South Assasif<br />
project they are using<br />
the same equipment<br />
they use to investigate<br />
glaciers to check<br />
for underground<br />
structures.<br />
Jane Akshar<br />
0121 228 7178<br />
info@hedge-tax.co.uk<br />
www.hedge-tax.co.uk
Carl<br />
Lost 3st 8lbs<br />
& underwent total<br />
body reshaping<br />
with 10 weeks<br />
of treatment<br />
Carl<br />
Before<br />
Treatment<br />
Husband & Wife Carl & Anna<br />
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• Body contouring without surgery as<br />
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• Supervised by our on site team of<br />
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•<br />
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Anna<br />
Lost 6st<br />
& underwent total<br />
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with 22 weeks<br />
of treatment<br />
Anna<br />
Before<br />
Treatment<br />
Connective tissue treatments to<br />
firm and tighten the skin.<br />
Specialised nutritional supplements<br />
to prevent hunger or lack of energy<br />
during treatment.<br />
A Revolutionary Medical<br />
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www.alizonne.co.uk<br />
Alizonne Maidenhead<br />
Court House Clinics, 55 Saint Lukes Road,<br />
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Coming Soon<br />
to Brighton<br />
Alizonne Aberdeen<br />
Temple Aesthetics, 9 The Courtyard,<br />
North Deeside Road, Cults,Aberdeen AB15 9S.
152 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Lyon<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir,<br />
Barcelona, Berlin,<br />
Biarritz, Bordeaux,<br />
Brest, Bristol,<br />
Brussels, Casablanca,<br />
Corsica (Ajaccio)<br />
Corsica (Bastia),<br />
Edinburgh, Ibiza,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Madrid, Marrakech,<br />
Milan (MXP), Nantes,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Palermo,<br />
Porto, Prague, Rome,<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €55.<br />
The Rhônexpress<br />
Tram goes to the<br />
Lyon Part Dieu train<br />
station. Tickets: €13.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
L’Harmonie des<br />
Vins (6th Gare des<br />
Brotteaux, tel: 04 7298<br />
8559) This month sees<br />
the arrival of Beaujolais<br />
Nouveau at this cosy<br />
convivial haunt much<br />
loved by wine buff s.<br />
Quaff alongside a<br />
tasty plate of Lyonnais<br />
charcuterie and<br />
creamy local<br />
cheeses, including<br />
gooey St Marcellin.<br />
UP TO €30 Chris<br />
Restaurant Urbain<br />
Café (39 Rue de la<br />
Bourse, tel: 04 7240<br />
2840) Great central<br />
stop-off for lunch<br />
situated next to<br />
Europe’s oldest stock<br />
exchange – La Bourse.<br />
The chalkboard menu<br />
changes regularly<br />
making place for<br />
the best of seasonal<br />
local produce.<br />
UP TO €50 Les<br />
Muses De L’Opera (1<br />
Place de la Comedie,<br />
1st , tel: 04 7200 4558)<br />
Book a table for stylish<br />
and innovative cuisine<br />
accompanied by one<br />
of the most fabulous<br />
panoramic views of<br />
the city, high above<br />
the opera house.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Christian Tetedoie<br />
(Montée du Chemin<br />
Neuf, tel: 04 7829<br />
4010) This is one of<br />
Lyon’s latest ventures<br />
by Christian Tetedoie,<br />
one of the city’s most<br />
well-known chefs.<br />
A former hospital,<br />
the site has the best<br />
views of the city. The<br />
emporium includes<br />
a wine bar serving<br />
innovative tapas.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Le Broc’Bar (20<br />
Rue Lanterne, tel: 04<br />
7830 8261) This local<br />
bar spills onto<br />
a heated terrace when<br />
the crowds descend<br />
for an early drink<br />
and nibbles.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Le Claks (3 Rue de<br />
Cronstadt, tel: 04 7280<br />
8500) A young mix of<br />
rockers and clubbers<br />
unite under one roof<br />
with the help of two<br />
resident DJs who get<br />
the fl oor vibrating<br />
over two large<br />
dancefl oors. There is<br />
a live music hall where<br />
local bands kick off<br />
the fun before the<br />
serious dancing starts.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Georgia (18 Rue<br />
Longue, tel: 04 7828<br />
1146) Great little place<br />
to move, shake and<br />
socialise over three<br />
fl oors. Music both live<br />
and compiled by the<br />
“maison” goes on until<br />
the early hours. Owner<br />
José Cusimano really<br />
knows how to make<br />
his guests feel at<br />
home, which is why<br />
locals fl ock here.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP In Halles de<br />
Lyon, Paul Bocuse<br />
was renovated in<br />
CITADINES<br />
PRESQU’ÎLE<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
On the peninsula<br />
between the Rhône<br />
and Saône Rivers,<br />
this hotel is ideally<br />
positioned for<br />
tourists. From<br />
€102, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
2006 and remains an<br />
international institution<br />
for locals and visitors.<br />
With over 50 stalls<br />
selling the very best<br />
food produce including<br />
charcuterie and cheese<br />
(102 Cours Lafayette).<br />
SEE Focusing on<br />
science, society and<br />
the impact each has on<br />
the other, the Musée<br />
des Confl uences off ers<br />
10 exhibition halls<br />
that answer questions<br />
such as, where do<br />
we come from? and<br />
where are we going?<br />
The building itself is an<br />
attraction – made of<br />
steel and transparent<br />
crystal (museedes<br />
confl uences.fr).<br />
GO Throughout<br />
the month, the 11th<br />
Biennale de Lyon will<br />
include around 70<br />
artists from around the<br />
globe, spanning over<br />
14,000 square meters<br />
of its four venues: La<br />
Sucrière, the Fondation<br />
Bullukian, the Musée<br />
d’Art Contemporain<br />
de Lyon, and the<br />
T.A.S.E. factory<br />
(biennale-de-lyon.org).<br />
ESCAPE The verdant<br />
Beaujolais region, just<br />
30 minutes’ drive from<br />
Lyon, off ers everything<br />
you might expect<br />
from Le Vrai France<br />
(beaujeu.fr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Cervelle de canuts, a<br />
local delicacy seen<br />
on menus, means<br />
silk factory worker’s<br />
brains – a delicious<br />
hors d’oeuvre based<br />
on fresh cheese,<br />
herbs and spices.<br />
John Brown<br />
Madeira<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW, STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Aerobus goes<br />
to the main hotel<br />
area, with 13 services<br />
daily. Tickets: €5.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Portão<br />
(Rua do Portão de<br />
São Tiago , tel: 291<br />
221 125) Portão has<br />
outdoor tables on<br />
one of the quaintest<br />
streets in the Old<br />
Town, as well as a cosy<br />
rustic interior. Serving<br />
typical Madeiran fi sh<br />
and meats, it also<br />
specialises in fl ambées.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Tokos (169 Estrada<br />
Monumental, tel: 291<br />
771 019) In one of the<br />
few historic buildings<br />
in the hotel zone,<br />
Tokos is charming in<br />
many ways. Start with<br />
a paté de fois grás or<br />
lobster, and move onto<br />
the fresh fi sh of the<br />
day or the extremely<br />
fi lling meat platter:<br />
pork, beef and mutton<br />
with garlic butter.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Chega<br />
de Saudade (20 Rua<br />
dos Aranhas, tel: 291<br />
242 289) Facing an<br />
enclosed square, this<br />
fashionable split-level<br />
bar-restaurant<br />
serves a range of<br />
cocktails and also has<br />
occasional live music.<br />
It attracts Funchal’s<br />
fashionable set.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
FX Bar (39 Largo das<br />
Fontes) A tranquil<br />
pizza restaurant by<br />
day, this attractive<br />
building opposite the<br />
promenade morphs<br />
in to a lively music<br />
bar late at night.<br />
Occasional DJs, live<br />
music and catchy<br />
sounds keep the night<br />
long and happy.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Forte de São<br />
Tiago has something<br />
for whatever the<br />
weather: a museum<br />
of contemporary art, a<br />
Military Room detailing<br />
the fort’s role in the<br />
Napoleonic Wars,<br />
and various terraces<br />
off ering stunning views<br />
across the Old Town<br />
and the Atlantic.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Madeira has just one<br />
indigenous mammal:<br />
the bat, although<br />
it also has three<br />
endemic species of<br />
birds: Zino’s Petrel, the<br />
Trocaz pigeon and the<br />
Madeira Firecrest.<br />
Matthew Hancock
Every afternoon till sunset<br />
DJ Kevin Martin gets the party started!<br />
“YOUR AFTERNOONS WILL NEVER BE THE SAME AGAIN”<br />
Sunny terrace, live music & karaoke every night.<br />
We have the friendliest staff:<br />
Mario, Dani, Toni, Carlos, Nico, David, Nassar and Hector<br />
Piano Bar Roundabout<br />
Av. Magalluf n o 2<br />
Magalluf (Calvia) España<br />
tel: +34 971 132 355<br />
www.pianobarroundabout.com
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Madrid<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bordeaux,<br />
Bristol, Bucharest,<br />
Casablanca,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Ibiza, Lanzarote,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Lyon, Manchester,<br />
Marrakech, Menorca,<br />
Milan (MXP), Naples,<br />
Paris (CDG),<br />
Rome, Tangier,<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
A three-day<br />
travel card gives<br />
you unlimited use<br />
within zone A. Buy<br />
onboard, tickets: €13<br />
Metro line 8<br />
connects to<br />
many other lines and<br />
trains. Tickets: €2<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 100<br />
Montaditos (6 Plaza<br />
de Puerta Cerrada, tel:<br />
913 652 724) Refuel<br />
on the run from no<br />
less than 100 varieties<br />
of crusty rolls stuff ed<br />
with delicious Spanish<br />
fi llings including spicy<br />
chorizo, Iberian ham<br />
and smoked salmon.<br />
Quench your thirst<br />
with a Mahou beer.<br />
UP TO €30 Estado<br />
Puro (4 Plaza Cánovas<br />
del Castillo, tel: 913 302<br />
400) The gastronomic<br />
genius of Chef Paco<br />
Roncero comes to life<br />
in this innovative tapas<br />
bar decorated with<br />
traditional Spanish<br />
hair combs and fi lled<br />
with a cosmopolitan<br />
crowd. Take your time<br />
to enjoy a selection of<br />
Iberian ham, seafood<br />
croquettes or tempura<br />
asparagus all washed<br />
down with excellent<br />
Spanish wines.<br />
UP TO €50 Seven<br />
& Six (76 Paseo<br />
Pintor Rosales,<br />
tel: 915 497 536)<br />
With its trendy New<br />
York-styled interior,<br />
this recently opened<br />
restaurant, with<br />
verdant park views, is<br />
already causing a stir<br />
with foodies. Feast<br />
on scallops, lobster<br />
cerbiche or lamb<br />
chops. Linger with a<br />
cocktail in the lounge<br />
area accompanied<br />
by some of Madrid’s<br />
most heavenly bodies.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Nikkei 225 (15 Paseo<br />
Castellana, tel: 913 190<br />
390) If you love new<br />
experiences, you must<br />
try this fabulous fusion<br />
restaurant, which<br />
brings together the<br />
fl avours of Japan and<br />
Peru. The décor is as<br />
exciting as the cuisine<br />
from renowned chef<br />
Luis Arévalo. Indulge in<br />
sashimi, sushi, teriyaki<br />
with truffl es and fruity<br />
desserts, all prepared<br />
with a creative twist.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Viva<br />
Madrid (7 Calle<br />
Manuel Fernández<br />
y Gonzalez, tel: 914<br />
293 640) One of<br />
Madrid’s oldest and<br />
most interesting bars<br />
for wine and cocktails,<br />
Viva Madrid is a great<br />
place for starting the<br />
evening before moving<br />
on to nearby Plaza<br />
Santa Ana for tapas.<br />
The ancient wooden<br />
ceiling and tiled façade<br />
are stunning and,<br />
depending on what<br />
time you arrive, you’ll<br />
fi nd the atmosphere<br />
chilled or buzzing.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Sala Taboo (23 San<br />
Vicente Ferrer, tel:<br />
915 241 189) Friday,<br />
Saturday and Sunday<br />
nights see this popular<br />
club come alive with<br />
international and<br />
local talent, which<br />
could include African<br />
rhythms soul or funk.<br />
Let the music and vibe<br />
move you as you enjoy<br />
a few beers.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Lamiak (42 Cava<br />
Baja, tel: 915 306<br />
727) This small, but<br />
very popular, bar in<br />
La Latina district has<br />
high-quality tapas<br />
piled high on the<br />
counter. From around<br />
9pm it turns into a<br />
well-attended pub.<br />
The perfect spot to<br />
kick off your night<br />
on the town.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Start at Plaza<br />
España and wander<br />
along the length of<br />
Calle de la Princesa<br />
towards Moncloa<br />
station to discover<br />
great shopping. Don’t<br />
miss the enormous<br />
Zara at No.45 or<br />
Massimo Dutti at<br />
No.77. Finish your<br />
journey with a stroll<br />
through the pretty<br />
Parque del Oeste.<br />
SEE Don’t miss the<br />
landmark exhibition,<br />
The Hermitage in the<br />
Prado Museum. More<br />
than 70 masterpieces,<br />
including works by<br />
Picasso, Rubens and<br />
Caravaggio, showcase<br />
the treasures of one<br />
of Russia’s most<br />
important museums.<br />
GO La Latina is home<br />
to the enormous<br />
Rastro Flea Market<br />
every Sunday<br />
morning, but it’s also<br />
where to discover<br />
one of Madrid’s<br />
most authentic<br />
neighbourhoods.<br />
ESCAPE Just 40<br />
minutes by train from<br />
Madrid’s Atocha train<br />
station, Aranjuez is a<br />
pretty royal town with<br />
an impressive 17thcentury<br />
palace, formal<br />
gardens, a river and<br />
a good selection of<br />
restaurants and bars.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Madrid’s Plaza Mayor<br />
was, during the 17th<br />
and 18th centuries, the<br />
scene of bullfi ghts<br />
and the gruesome<br />
burning of religious<br />
heretics at the stake.<br />
Scott Adams<br />
MARRIOTT GOLF RESORT HOTELS IN EUROPE<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 155<br />
Majorca<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Dortmund, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, SEN,<br />
STN), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Naples,<br />
Newcastle, Paris<br />
(CDG), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 1 goes to<br />
central Palma.<br />
Tickets: €2. For Arenal<br />
take bus No.21.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Fish<br />
and Chips Palma (7<br />
Placa La Drassana, tel:<br />
971 425 333) It’s not<br />
exactly local cuisine but<br />
if you have a craving<br />
for fi sh and chips, this<br />
new take-away just a<br />
stone’s throw from La<br />
Lonja is already proving<br />
a massive hit, despite<br />
only being open since<br />
the end of July.<br />
UP TO €30 Koh (15<br />
Carrer Servet, tel: 971<br />
287 039) This Thai<br />
fusion restaurant is<br />
exceedingly lucky as<br />
it’s situated on the<br />
Choose one of our unique five star hotels in Spain for your next golf getaway abroad.<br />
Mallorca Marriott Son Antem Golf Resort & Spa | Denia Marriott La Sella Golf Resort & Spa<br />
Visit Marriott.com | Marriott.es<br />
doorstep of one of<br />
Palma’s best markets,<br />
Santa Catalina.<br />
Beautifully decorated<br />
throughout, this place<br />
is a must for those<br />
who love their food<br />
fl avoursome and with a<br />
kick. For your main try<br />
one of their delicious<br />
Panaeng curries.<br />
UP TO €50 Misa<br />
(1A Can Macanet, Hotel<br />
Mision de San Miguel,<br />
tel: 971 595 301) Misa<br />
Braseria & Bar is the<br />
latest restaurant to be<br />
opened by renowned<br />
chef Marc Fosh. With<br />
a more informal<br />
atmosphere than his<br />
gourmet restaurant<br />
Simply Fosh, Marc<br />
offers extremely<br />
high-quality cuisine and<br />
impeccable service.<br />
Dishes range from<br />
Catalan-style fish soup<br />
with monkfish and<br />
mussels to slowcooked<br />
fi llet of<br />
beef baked in<br />
hay and mountain<br />
herbs and classic<br />
chocolate marquise.<br />
DALT MURADA<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Home to a large<br />
variety of fi ne art,<br />
this family-owned<br />
manor has a<br />
fantastic Old<br />
Town location.<br />
From €97, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.
156 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Majorca<br />
Spain<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Es Fum (St Regis<br />
Mardavall Hotel,<br />
Passeig Calviá, tel:<br />
971 629 629) This<br />
luxurious restaurant,<br />
set in the sumptuous<br />
surroundings of the<br />
fi ve-star hotel, is the<br />
epitome of good taste.<br />
Specialities include<br />
the creative loin of<br />
venison with a masala<br />
nut-crust and sea<br />
bass on a ragout of<br />
beans and chorizo.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Hostal<br />
Corona (22 Josep<br />
Villalonga) This<br />
courtyard bar<br />
boasts modern<br />
art installations,<br />
cool clientèle and a<br />
laidback ambience<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Bluesville (3 Ma del<br />
Moro) Hosting great<br />
live acts seven nights<br />
a week, this spit-andsawdust<br />
venue caters<br />
for all music tastes,<br />
from punk to pop,<br />
blues to bluegrass.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Sunset Club (54<br />
Avenida Gabriel Roca,<br />
tel: 971 405 500) By<br />
day, the Sunset Club<br />
serves breakfast,<br />
lunch then dinner and<br />
after the sun goes<br />
down you can enjoy<br />
delicious cocktails<br />
overlooking the port<br />
and dance until dawn.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP B connected<br />
is really two stores<br />
rolled into one. In<br />
one half you have the<br />
concept store, where<br />
you’ll fi nd innovative<br />
and quirky household<br />
items, while next<br />
door you have the<br />
fashion store. Very<br />
cool indeed (4–6<br />
Carrer Dameto,<br />
Santa Catalina).<br />
SEE Head to the<br />
fabulous arts & crafts<br />
fair in Pollensa held<br />
during the second<br />
weekend in November.<br />
It’s beautifully laid out<br />
and you’ll fi nd quality<br />
produce. A defi nite<br />
don’t miss event.<br />
GO Take a stroll down<br />
the Passeig d’es Born,<br />
a historic tree-lined<br />
promenade. Known as<br />
“El Born”, it’s a scaleddown<br />
version of<br />
Barcelona’s Rambla.<br />
ESCAPE Just a<br />
few miles past Soller<br />
in the north-west<br />
lies the picturepostcard<br />
village of<br />
Fornalutx. Nestled<br />
among the mountains,<br />
this place is a<br />
popular destination<br />
for walkers.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Deep inside one of<br />
the towers of Bellver<br />
Castle known as the<br />
“Torre del Homenaje”<br />
(Homage Tower) is<br />
a round hole with a<br />
stone lid, known as La<br />
Olla or The Pot. This<br />
is no water cistern or<br />
storeroom but the<br />
entrance to a gloomy<br />
dungeon in which all<br />
kinds of prisoners<br />
met their fates from<br />
medieval times up to<br />
the late 19th century.<br />
David Anderson<br />
Málaga<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
SEN, STN), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP),<br />
Newcastle, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €16.<br />
Buses go to<br />
Málaga, with<br />
links to all the coastal<br />
resorts. Tickets: €1.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 La<br />
Espuela (Avenida<br />
del Mar, Pasaje<br />
Mackintosh, Marbella,<br />
tel: 951 968 002) A<br />
great little place with<br />
hams hanging over<br />
the bar and carafe<br />
loads of traditional<br />
atmosphere. Tucked<br />
down a side street,<br />
come here for homely<br />
dishes like tortilla,<br />
paella and daily<br />
changing specials.<br />
UP TO €30 Bodega<br />
La Solera (17 Calle San<br />
Antonio, Fuengirola,<br />
tel: 952 467 708)<br />
This traditional-style<br />
bodega and restaurant<br />
with its dark wood and<br />
dusty bottles has an<br />
appealing rustic charm.<br />
Located in a quiet<br />
street near the main<br />
square, the menu is<br />
typical Andalusian with<br />
a wide choice of meat<br />
and fi sh mains<br />
and exceptionally<br />
good starters.<br />
UP TO €50 La<br />
Casa del Ángel (29<br />
Calle Madre de Dios,<br />
tel: 952 608 750)<br />
Beret-and-smock<br />
types will appreciate<br />
the owner’s laudable<br />
art collection on the<br />
walls, while everyone<br />
will enjoy the delicious<br />
combination of<br />
Moroccan and<br />
Andalusian dishes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Tragabuches (1 Calle<br />
José Aparacio, Ronda,<br />
tel: 952 190 291) This<br />
celebrated Michelinstarred<br />
restaurant<br />
serves innovative and<br />
well-crafted dishes<br />
ALHAMBRA<br />
TOURS<br />
GO Don’t miss a<br />
visit to Granada’s<br />
fabulous Alhambra<br />
(Moorish palace)<br />
while you are here.<br />
It is just two speedy<br />
hours drive away or<br />
you can book a tour<br />
through your hotel.<br />
such as ajo blanco<br />
(white garlic soup)<br />
with pistachios, foie<br />
gras with goats’<br />
cheese and a choice of<br />
several game dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Las Garrafas (5<br />
Calle Méndez Núñez,<br />
tel: 902 416 641)<br />
This cavernous bar<br />
has a timeless feel<br />
with its original tiles,<br />
giant barrels and<br />
peeling paintwork.<br />
It’s a great place to<br />
get into Andalusian<br />
mode before a night<br />
out. Ask for an icecold<br />
fi no along with<br />
the specialty: tapa<br />
berenjas con miel<br />
(fried aubergine slices<br />
drizzled with honey).<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Buddha Marbella<br />
(3 Avenida del Mar,<br />
Marbella) A supercentral<br />
nightclub, right<br />
on Avenida del Mar,<br />
between the Old Town<br />
and the paseo, this<br />
place has lots going<br />
on with Cuban nights,<br />
salsa classes, live<br />
music and just a great<br />
feel-good atmosphere.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Maná (Puerto<br />
Benalmádena) A<br />
heaving latenight<br />
disco in<br />
Benalmadena’s<br />
moving and shakin’<br />
port, Puerto<br />
Benalmádena. In the<br />
heart of the action,<br />
you can easily start<br />
the evening at the port<br />
at one of the many<br />
nearby bars with their<br />
sprawling terraces<br />
under the stars.<br />
Simply visit Type eJ15 in the promotion code box when you select and book your City Sightseeing tour.<br />
www.city-sightseeing.com<br />
15% DISCOUNT<br />
Choose from<br />
over 90 towns and<br />
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Hop on -<br />
Hop off<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Head to pretty<br />
Parque de la Paloma<br />
in Arroya de la Miel on<br />
Wednesday mornings,<br />
when the adjacent fl ea<br />
market is in full swing.<br />
You can fi nd just<br />
about everything here,<br />
from second-hand<br />
fl amenco dresses to<br />
cut-price DVDs.<br />
SEE If you fancy<br />
a slug of culture,<br />
get down to the<br />
city’s superb Teatro<br />
Cervantes, where<br />
the local Orquestra<br />
Filarmonica are<br />
performing a<br />
concert dedicated<br />
to Beethoven on the<br />
18–19 of the month<br />
(teatrocervantes.com<br />
for tickets).<br />
ESCAPE Just<br />
28km northwest of<br />
Ronda is Grazalema,<br />
arguably the prettiest<br />
spot in the region.<br />
Its cobbled streets<br />
are fl anked by<br />
whitewashed houses<br />
decorated by brilliant<br />
red geraniums, while<br />
the surrounding<br />
natural park is home<br />
to the rare ibex,<br />
as well as various<br />
birds of prey.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Traditional garlic soup<br />
is a heart-warming<br />
starter at this time<br />
of year. Surprisingly,<br />
despite around six<br />
garlic cloves being<br />
used to make a<br />
batch, because<br />
they are roasted fi rst<br />
the end result is not<br />
as pungent as you<br />
may expect.<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
City Sightseeing’s open top double deck tour buses offer full commentary or live guides and usually offer 24 hour tickets. Main tours are year round, others seasonal.
Viste<br />
la Diferencia<br />
Viste<br />
Galgo Blanco<br />
Conoce GalgoBlanco.es la nueva<br />
firma de ropa para el hombre que<br />
cruza fronteras, que viste cómodo y<br />
con estilo allá a donde vaya. Galgo<br />
Blanco despega y quiere volar<br />
contigo a través de su colección de<br />
polos y camisas de diseño clásico y<br />
actual, con pinceladas de las últimas<br />
tendencias. Nuestras prendas de alta<br />
calidad están concebidas en España<br />
y confeccionadas en Portugal.<br />
Visitanos en www.galgoblanco.es<br />
y siguenos en http://www.<br />
facebook.com/GalgoBlanco<br />
M E N S W E A R<br />
Dress<br />
the Difference<br />
Dress<br />
Galgo Blanco<br />
Meet GalgoBlanco.es, the new<br />
menswear firm that crosses frontiers,<br />
that dresses comfortably with a<br />
style of its own wherever it goes.<br />
Galgo Blanco takes off, and flies<br />
with you, as it presents a collection<br />
of polos and shirts of classic design<br />
with splashes of the latest trends.<br />
Our clothing is of superb quality<br />
and is conceptually created in Spain<br />
and manufactured in Portugal.<br />
Visit us at www.galgoblanco.es<br />
and follow us on http://www.<br />
facebook.com/GalgoBlanco
158 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Malta<br />
Malta<br />
DIALLING CODE +356<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester,<br />
Newcastle, Milan<br />
(MXP), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €16.<br />
Buses Nos.<br />
X1, X2, X3, X4<br />
service destinations<br />
all over the island.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Canas<br />
Y Tapas (St George’s<br />
Bay, St Julian’s) It<br />
may not be Maltese<br />
as such, but tapas<br />
has really taken off<br />
locally – and this is<br />
one of your best bets<br />
for authentic dishes,<br />
pleasingly peppered<br />
with local fl avours<br />
to boot.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ta French (Marsalforn<br />
Road, Xaghra, Gozo,<br />
tel: 21 553 888)<br />
Widely regarded as<br />
one of Malta’s best<br />
restaurants, it’s well<br />
worth the trip to Gozo<br />
just for a taste of the<br />
Juliet<br />
before<br />
treatment<br />
chef’s fi ve-course<br />
luxury set menu,<br />
which changes weekly.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Luna<br />
Lounge (Palazzo<br />
Parisio, Naxxar, tel:<br />
21 412 461) Part of<br />
the exclusive Luna<br />
Collection within<br />
this magnifi cent<br />
palazzo, Luna Lounge<br />
is a haven of plush<br />
surroundings and<br />
cocktails. A hit with<br />
the island’s it-crowd.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Nordic Bar<br />
(St Rita’s Steps, St<br />
Julian’s) On the busy<br />
steps up to Paceville,<br />
this is one of the<br />
most popular spots<br />
to dance the night<br />
away. Party hard to<br />
the cheesiest pop<br />
anthems from days<br />
gone by. Great for stag<br />
and hen parties.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO If you think Gozo<br />
isn’t the place to<br />
catch great opera,<br />
think again. Head<br />
to the Aurora Opera<br />
House in Victoria<br />
on 19 November<br />
to enjoy the music<br />
of Bellini, Verdi,<br />
Puccini, Mascagni,<br />
Leoncavallo, Bizet,<br />
Cilea, and Giordano<br />
(tel: 21 559 452).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Malta’s fl ag is red<br />
and white. According<br />
to legend these hues<br />
were “donated” to<br />
the island by Norman<br />
Count Roger in<br />
1090AD.<br />
Jo Caruana<br />
Manchester<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Belfast, Berlin, Bilbao,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />
Corsica (Bastia), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
Geneva, Gothenburg,<br />
Hamburg, Madrid,<br />
Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Malta, Marrakech,<br />
Menorca, Munich,<br />
Sharm El Sheikh,<br />
Sofi a, Tenerife, Zürich<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £20.<br />
Trains depart for<br />
the city centre<br />
every 10 minutes.<br />
Tickets: £5.40 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Kebabish (170–172<br />
Cheetham Hill Road,<br />
tel: 0161 834 4544)<br />
Choose from BBQ<br />
lamb ribs, whole<br />
baby chicken with<br />
peri peri sauce and<br />
veggie options like<br />
okra with ginger<br />
at this Pakistani<br />
grill house.<br />
UP TO €30 Olive<br />
Press (4 Lloyd Street,<br />
tel: 0161 832 9090)<br />
This tiled trattoria<br />
serves relaxed Italian<br />
fare. Dishes to look<br />
out for include<br />
smoked duck<br />
antipasto, traditional<br />
tiramisu and stonebaked<br />
pizzas. The<br />
wine list leans towards<br />
the New World.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Restaurant Bar &<br />
Grill (14 John Dalton<br />
Street, tel: 0161 839<br />
1999) A favourite with<br />
local celebrities, the<br />
extensive wine and<br />
Champagne list at this<br />
Manhattan-inspired<br />
grill is just part of its<br />
allure. Chateaubriand<br />
is a house special,<br />
alongside gargantuan<br />
salads, lobster<br />
with fries and a<br />
range of risottos.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Yang<br />
Sing (34 Princess<br />
Street, tel: 0161 236<br />
2200) Chinatown’s<br />
Yang Sing is the city’s<br />
fi nest Cantonese<br />
HOLIDAY INN<br />
MEDIA CITY<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
In the heart of the<br />
MediaCityUK hub,<br />
this hotel is perfectly<br />
positioned for a<br />
number of modern<br />
tourist attractions.<br />
From €103, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
restaurant. Dressed in<br />
rich, lacquered tones<br />
and hand-sourced<br />
vintage prints, choose<br />
from razor clams<br />
with mint or dim<br />
sum in the shape of<br />
Manchester’s mascot,<br />
the bumble bee.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Sand Bar<br />
(120 Grosvenor Street,<br />
tel: 0161 273 3141)<br />
Designed by architects<br />
from the nearby<br />
university, you’ll fi nd<br />
an arty, older crowd at<br />
this independent bar.<br />
House specials include<br />
German lager, whisky<br />
and quirky snugs.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Ruby<br />
Lounge (26–34<br />
High Street, tel: 0161<br />
834 1392) Former<br />
lap-dancing club<br />
Ruby Lounge is all<br />
plush carpets and<br />
cosy corners now.<br />
Guests in November<br />
include Acid Mother’s<br />
Temple, Little Dragon<br />
and provocative US<br />
rappers Das Racist.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Warehouse<br />
Project (Store<br />
Street, tel: 0161 835<br />
3500) Housed in the<br />
1,800-capacity vaults<br />
under Piccadilly train<br />
station, the industrial<br />
superclub kicks off<br />
with guests like<br />
Jamie XX, Aphex<br />
Twin and the cream<br />
of the international<br />
dance scene.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For fashionforward<br />
casuals check<br />
out Me & Yu on the<br />
top fl oor of Affl ecks<br />
emporium. This store<br />
sells everything from<br />
vintage shades and<br />
brooches to slash-neck<br />
tees and party dresses<br />
(52 Church Street).<br />
SEE This month<br />
the People’s History<br />
Museum opens<br />
Picturing Politics.<br />
From 12 November<br />
see political posters<br />
from the 20th<br />
century, which helped<br />
propel the country’s<br />
politicians to success<br />
(phm.org.uk).<br />
GO Manchester’s<br />
Northern Quarter<br />
off ers the best in<br />
vintage, music and<br />
designer shopping.<br />
Beatin’ Rhythm and<br />
Piccadilly Records are<br />
musts for music fans,<br />
while hip hangouts<br />
include Common,<br />
North Tea Power<br />
and Soup Kitchen.<br />
Pick up keepsakes<br />
at Manchester<br />
Craft Centre.<br />
ESCAPE Take a trip<br />
out to Whaley Bridge<br />
and stop off at the<br />
historic Lyme Park’s<br />
estate. Around an<br />
hour by car, there are<br />
a number of country<br />
walks up and down<br />
the Goyt Valley to<br />
embark on. Grab a bite<br />
to eat at the awardwinning<br />
Red Lion in<br />
High Lane en route,<br />
where local beef stew<br />
and real ale are the<br />
specials of the house.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Until 1860, the Mark<br />
Addy on Stanley Street<br />
was a popular spot for<br />
public executions.<br />
Ruth Allan<br />
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with 26 weeks<br />
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160 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Marrakech<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Manchester, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about MAD60.<br />
The hourly L19<br />
bus goes to the<br />
Jemaa el Fna.<br />
Tickets: MAD20.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Le Jacaranda (32<br />
Boulevard Zerktouni,<br />
Gueliz, tel: 0524 447<br />
215) A charming<br />
restaurant in a French<br />
bistro style. Under the<br />
helm of chef Philippe<br />
Coustal, the kitchen<br />
cooks up a storm<br />
that surpasses<br />
all expectations.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
L’Abyssin (Palais<br />
Rhoul, Route De Fes,<br />
Dar Tounsi, tel: 0524<br />
328 584) A series<br />
of white tents set in<br />
a gorgeous garden,<br />
L’Abyssin provides<br />
elegant simplicity<br />
to complement the<br />
fabulous cuisine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Koz’i<br />
Bar (47 Place des<br />
Ferblantiers, Medina<br />
South, tel: 0524 380<br />
324) This is what<br />
regular visitors have<br />
been waiting for:<br />
an intimate place<br />
where tourists and<br />
Moroccans can<br />
pull up a stool to<br />
enjoy fi ne wines,<br />
cognacs and cigars.<br />
Needless to say, it’s<br />
extremely popular.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Plage Rouge<br />
(Route de l’Ourika<br />
10km, tel: 0524 378<br />
086) Located 10km<br />
outside the city on<br />
the road to Ourika,<br />
The Red Beach is<br />
an all-singing, alldancing<br />
complex with<br />
an enormous pool.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Culture<br />
vultures descend<br />
on Marrakech in<br />
November for<br />
Arts in Marrakech<br />
International<br />
Biennale, which<br />
exhibits works from<br />
artists across the<br />
globe at the Bahia<br />
Palace every two<br />
years to great<br />
critical acclaim<br />
and local interest.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Towering over the<br />
Jemaa el Fna, the<br />
Koutoubia Mosque<br />
is not only the highest<br />
point in the city, it<br />
was also the model<br />
for the Giralda of<br />
Sevilla and Hassan<br />
Tower of Rabat.<br />
Nick Clarke/Hg2.com<br />
Marseille<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
A shuttle bus<br />
to the Gare St<br />
Charles train station,<br />
leaves every 20 mins.<br />
Tickets: €8.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
La Table Ronde (24<br />
Rue Sylvabelle, 6th,<br />
tel: 04 9104 6883)<br />
A traditional Breton<br />
creperie off ering<br />
delicious savoury<br />
or sweet crêpes<br />
with accompanying<br />
regional products.<br />
Try the Druid<br />
menu or for the<br />
adventurous, the<br />
Roquefort cheese and<br />
puréed leeks or fresh<br />
mussels and prawns<br />
fl ambéed in cognac.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Côte de Boeuf<br />
(35 Cours d’Estienne<br />
d’Orves, 1st, tel: 04<br />
9154 8908) Known for<br />
quality meat dishes<br />
including duck, rabbit,<br />
pigeon and lamb, this<br />
is a favourite with<br />
locals for its romantic<br />
ambience and has<br />
one of the best wine<br />
cellars around.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La Tasca<br />
(102 Rue Ferrari, 5th,<br />
tel: 04 9042 2602)<br />
Tastefully decorated<br />
tapas bar with a<br />
winter garden serving<br />
good sangria and<br />
a variety of nibbles.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Baron de l’Opéra<br />
(10 Rue Beauvau,<br />
tel: 06 6165 0555)<br />
This intimate, chic,<br />
glamorous and<br />
festive venue is one<br />
of the city’s bestkept<br />
secrets. Dare<br />
to discover it.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE See a concert<br />
at The Dome,<br />
Marseille’s ultimate<br />
concert venue.<br />
Experience French<br />
legends Jean-Louis<br />
Aubert and Charles<br />
Aznavour or Laurent<br />
Gerra’s one man<br />
show accompanied<br />
by his Big Band of 20<br />
musicians (48 Avenue<br />
de Saint-Just).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Hip, innovative<br />
and trend-setting,<br />
Marseille is home to<br />
the oldest Chamber<br />
of Commerce in<br />
France, founded in<br />
1599 in response to<br />
exotic and luxurious<br />
trade through its<br />
international port.<br />
Claire McAlpine<br />
Milan<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Barcelona, Bari, Berlin,<br />
Bordeaux, Brindisi,<br />
Bucharest,<br />
Brussels, Cagliari,<br />
Casablanca, Catania,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Edinburgh,<br />
Ibiza, Lamezia, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta,<br />
Marrakech, Menorca,<br />
Mykonos, Naples,<br />
Olbia, Palermo, Paris<br />
(CDG, ORY), Porto,<br />
Prague, Rhodes,<br />
Rome, Santorini,<br />
Split, Thessaloniki,<br />
Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
LINATE<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
ATM’s route<br />
73 connects<br />
with the metro at<br />
San Babila. Tickets:<br />
€1. The Starfl y goes<br />
to Centrale station,<br />
roughly every 30<br />
minutes from 6.10am-<br />
11.30pm. Tickets: €5.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
MALPENSA<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €70.<br />
The Malpensa<br />
Shuttle departs<br />
for Centrale station<br />
every 20 minutes from<br />
5.30am–1.20am. Buy<br />
onboard. Tickets: €7.50.<br />
The Malpensa<br />
Express departs<br />
for Cadorna station<br />
every 30 minutes<br />
from 5.50am–1.30am.<br />
Tickets: €11.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Non<br />
Solo Pizza (14 Via<br />
Raff aello Sanzio, tel:<br />
02 436 708) The<br />
menu items other than<br />
pizza are pretty basic,<br />
but the pizzas, in both<br />
thin and thick crust<br />
versions, are quite<br />
delicious. Excellent<br />
value at around €10 a<br />
head including drink.<br />
Crota Piemunteisa<br />
(9 Via Gian Giacomo<br />
Mora, tel: 02 839<br />
5992) This lively<br />
budget trattoria<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Verger (1 Via Varese,<br />
tel: 02 8699 8276)<br />
This intriguing venue<br />
is a clothes shop<br />
by day but off ers<br />
cocktails in the<br />
evening and there’s<br />
an upmarket picnic<br />
delivery service.
162 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Milan<br />
Italy<br />
in the Porta<br />
Ticinese area caters<br />
for a youngish crowd,<br />
serving traditional<br />
fare including pasta<br />
with beans, ravioli<br />
and gnocchi. Choose<br />
carefully and you can<br />
spend very little.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Mykonos (5 Via<br />
Tofane, tel: 02 261<br />
0209) This Greek<br />
restaurant off ers<br />
great value and<br />
mouthwatering<br />
moussaka and<br />
souvlaki, made<br />
according to<br />
authentic traditions.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Sant’Ambrogio (8 Via<br />
Vincenzo Foppa, tel:<br />
02 3656 8287) Named<br />
after Milan’s patron<br />
saint and situated a<br />
couple of blocks from<br />
the ancient basilica<br />
dedicated to him,<br />
this traditional<br />
restaurant off ers<br />
quality and value.<br />
L’Osteria di<br />
Lambrate (18 Via<br />
degli Orombelli,<br />
tel: 02 7063 8310)<br />
There’s a creative<br />
spin to traditional<br />
cookery at this<br />
recently revamped<br />
wine bar-restaurant<br />
in the Lambrate<br />
area. Try baccalà,<br />
a type of dried salted<br />
fi sh originating<br />
from Venice.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Don<br />
Carlos (Grand Hotel<br />
et de Milan, 29 Via<br />
Manzoni, tel: 02 7231<br />
4640) This plush<br />
opera-themed eatery<br />
is set inside the hotel<br />
where composer<br />
Giuseppe Verdi stayed<br />
when his operas<br />
were performed at<br />
La Scala. Modern<br />
Italian cuisine is<br />
delivered with<br />
impeccable service.<br />
Antica Trattoria<br />
Monluè (75 Via<br />
Monluè, tel: 02 761<br />
0246) It’s well worth<br />
the trip outside the<br />
city to sample this<br />
traditional eatery set<br />
in an old farmhouse.<br />
Dishes come from<br />
ancient recipes<br />
of Lombardy, the<br />
region of which<br />
Milan is capital.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Zoom (26 Via Panfi lo<br />
Castaldi, tel: 02<br />
2952 9006) This<br />
disco in the Porta<br />
Venezia district is set<br />
on two levels with a<br />
basement that throbs<br />
to underground<br />
sounds till late –<br />
both live music and<br />
selected local DJs.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Zoe Club (13 Piazza<br />
Anita Garibaldi,<br />
tel: 347 879 0658)<br />
Exhilarating but not<br />
for the faint-hearted,<br />
this club opens on<br />
Friday and Saturday<br />
nights to celebrate<br />
hard rock in all forms<br />
with DJ sets as well<br />
as live gigs.<br />
Codice a Barre<br />
(98 Alzaia Naviglio<br />
Grande, tel: 02<br />
4549 3702) This<br />
big urban and edgy<br />
ex-industrial space is<br />
split into three stages<br />
where you can dance<br />
all night to electronic<br />
and house music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Milan’s<br />
answer to Harrods<br />
is Rinascente, an<br />
eight-storey megalith<br />
selling practically<br />
anything you can<br />
carry home (tel: 02<br />
88521, rinascente.it).<br />
SHOP Trussardi is<br />
one of the fashion<br />
capital’s leading<br />
brands for men and<br />
women’s clothes and<br />
accessories. It off ers a<br />
memorable shopping<br />
experience from the<br />
elegant leather bags<br />
on the ground fl oor<br />
to the latest<br />
fashions upstairs (5<br />
Piazza della Scala).<br />
SEE Motorbike<br />
enthusiasts from<br />
all over Europe will<br />
be fl ocking to the<br />
annual EICMA<br />
motorbike trade fair<br />
at the Fiera Milano<br />
exhibition site on 8–13<br />
November (eicma.it).<br />
GO Head to Isola-<br />
Garibaldi, historically<br />
one of Milan’s more<br />
humble quarters,<br />
but today it has a<br />
youthful vibe. Full<br />
of funky boutiques,<br />
antique shops, bars<br />
and restaurants,<br />
the district stretches<br />
north from<br />
Garibaldi station.<br />
ESCAPE Easily<br />
reached by car or<br />
train, Parma’s main<br />
attractions are<br />
the cathedral<br />
and battistero<br />
(baptistry). Parma is,<br />
of course, the home<br />
of Parma ham<br />
and the region<br />
produces the worldfamous<br />
Parmigiano-<br />
Reggiano cheese.<br />
ESCAPE Set along<br />
the autostrada, about<br />
40km north-east<br />
of Milan, Bergamo<br />
is really two cities<br />
in one: the higher,<br />
older part, the Città<br />
Alta, perches on a hill<br />
overlooking the more<br />
recent Città Bassa.<br />
The Old Town is full<br />
of atmosphere and<br />
the central square,<br />
the Piazza Vecchia,<br />
is known for its<br />
historic architecture,<br />
including the<br />
Renaissance Palazzo<br />
della Ragione. The<br />
bell tower has a<br />
memorable view over<br />
the Po river.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although rocked by<br />
occasional scandals,<br />
Milan is traditionally<br />
known as “the moral<br />
capital of Italy”.<br />
Charles Searson<br />
ACCA PALACE<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This stylish hotel,<br />
redefi nes comfort<br />
and modernity, and<br />
is just minutes from<br />
Milan’s attractions.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €72, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Montpellier<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Take the shuttle<br />
bus to Place<br />
de l’Europe. Tickets:<br />
€1.50 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
La Kitchenette (19<br />
Rue du Palais-des-<br />
Guilhem, tel: 04<br />
6760 6165) A tiny<br />
restaurant with a<br />
fresh menu every<br />
day, with dishes<br />
including Thai beef<br />
salad, sweet onion<br />
tart and moussaka.<br />
It’s only open at<br />
weekday lunchtimes,<br />
but serves sushi<br />
Saturday lunchtime<br />
and evening. Reserve<br />
ahead because it’s<br />
very popular.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Le Clos Des Oliviers<br />
(53 Rue de l’Aven,<br />
St Gely du Fesc, tel:<br />
02 6784 3636) The<br />
roasted giant prawns<br />
and the smoked<br />
haddock pastries<br />
make this worth the<br />
10-minute drive out<br />
of town. The partridge<br />
with chestnuts is<br />
also delicious.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
La Fabrik (12 Rue<br />
Boussairolles, tel:<br />
04 6758 6211)<br />
Furnished with an<br />
eclectic selection of<br />
bargains and junk,<br />
this is a good place<br />
to wind down at<br />
the end of the day.<br />
Belgian beers, local<br />
wines, cocktails and<br />
bar snacks are all<br />
reasonably priced.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Inglorious Bar (6<br />
Rue Cope-Cambes,<br />
tel: 04 9963 5410)<br />
Happy hours, billiard<br />
tournaments, free<br />
Wi-Fi, a big terrace<br />
and cheap beer! Rock<br />
and roll, from Elvis to<br />
Alice, takes over and<br />
gets louder as the<br />
evening rolls on.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Make your<br />
way to Equi-Sud,<br />
on 10–13 November,<br />
the biggest horse<br />
show in France and<br />
an unmissable<br />
event for horselovers(equisudmontpellier.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Montpellier was<br />
originally situated<br />
inland from the coast<br />
in order to avoid<br />
being raided<br />
by pirates.<br />
Samantha David<br />
www.lfblivigno.com DISCOUNT UPON PRESENTATION OF BOARDING CARD<br />
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More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Munich<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Edinburgh,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €60.<br />
The S1 and S8<br />
leave for the city<br />
between 4.30am and<br />
midnight. Tickets: €10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Königsquelle (2<br />
Baaderplatz, tel: 089<br />
220 071) It may look<br />
like your average bar<br />
from the outside, but<br />
this place is renowned<br />
for its fabulous wiener<br />
schnitzels, which<br />
are cooked to<br />
perfection by the<br />
bar’s Austrian chef.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
G Munich (52<br />
Geyerstrasse, tel: 089<br />
7474 7999) Holger<br />
Stromberg, one of<br />
Germany’s up-andcoming<br />
young chefs, is<br />
behind this restaurant.<br />
The décor and the<br />
food are the very<br />
defi nition of style.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Bar Corso (51<br />
Muellerstrasse, tel:<br />
089 2421 6115) Take<br />
a touch of urban<br />
charm, add some cool<br />
minimalism and a<br />
hint of Italian fl air and<br />
you’ve got Bar Corso.<br />
Try one of the homeinfused<br />
cocktails,<br />
such as rosemary<br />
and sage rum.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Holy Home (21<br />
Reichenbachstrasse)<br />
This tiny bar in the<br />
Glockenbach district<br />
is buzzing by the early<br />
hours most nights.<br />
Sip chilled Augustiner<br />
beer and dance to<br />
a live DJ in the kitsch<br />
but cool surroundings.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The vast Deutsches<br />
Museum on an island<br />
in the River Isar is the<br />
world’s largest science<br />
and technology<br />
museum, with over<br />
13km of corridors.<br />
Jill Henne<br />
ALTER PETER<br />
CHURCH<br />
GO No trip to<br />
Munich would be<br />
complete without<br />
a look around the<br />
Old Town. Get<br />
your bearings by<br />
climbing the 306<br />
steps of the Alter<br />
Peter church tower.<br />
Murcia<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Murcia<br />
costs €45 and to<br />
Torrevieja €35.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
El Pincho de Castilla<br />
(53 Calle Jiménez de<br />
la Espada, Cartagena,<br />
tel: 968 508 987)<br />
Great salads and some<br />
tasty local specialities<br />
such as hake in cider<br />
or ribs from the grill.<br />
Top tapas are served<br />
in the bar, too.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
El Mesón de la Costa<br />
(27 Calle Ramon y<br />
Cajal, Torrevieja, tel:<br />
966 703 598) One of<br />
the best restaurants<br />
in the region, located<br />
close to Torrevieja’s<br />
port. Just inside the<br />
entrance, examples<br />
of the catch of the<br />
day are laid out in an<br />
iced showcase next to<br />
a large lobster tank.<br />
Expect an extensive<br />
wine list and<br />
fi rst-class service.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Mesón<br />
de la Plaza Mayor<br />
(Plaza Mayor) Next to<br />
the vast San Nicolás<br />
church, the Mesón<br />
off ers some top tapas<br />
and great sherry for an<br />
early-evening tipple.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Auditorio y Centro<br />
de Congresos Victor<br />
Villegas (Avenida<br />
Primero de Mayo, tel:<br />
968 341 060) This<br />
fantastic venue hosts<br />
all kinds of concerts,<br />
ranging from jazz<br />
to indie rock. It’s a<br />
good-sized bar so<br />
you can either relax at<br />
the back with a drink<br />
or join the dancing<br />
locals at the front.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The eclectic<br />
Cartagena jazz festival<br />
takes place this month<br />
with some top names<br />
lined up including the<br />
Pat Metheny Trio on<br />
20 November. The<br />
concerts are held at<br />
a number of venues in<br />
the historic port city<br />
(jazzcartagena.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
A €2.3m restoration<br />
programme at Murcia’s<br />
historic cathedral has<br />
been completed. It<br />
has taken workers<br />
fi ve years. The refurb<br />
includes the bell tower<br />
and three chapels –<br />
Los Vélez, Las Ánimas<br />
and Junterones – and<br />
furniture inside the<br />
place of worship.<br />
David Jones<br />
WE PROMISE THE PRICE YOU SEE IS THE PRICE YOU PAY,<br />
SO NO UNEXPECTED EXTRA CHARGES. GREAT!<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 163<br />
Nantes<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The shuttle<br />
bus runs to<br />
Nantes South SNCF<br />
train station, Cité des<br />
Congress and the<br />
centre. Tickets: €7<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Le Bistro (15 Place<br />
du Pilori, tel: 02 5182<br />
8091) A fabulous<br />
lunchtime place<br />
serving cheap and<br />
cheerful steak and<br />
chips, fresh fi sh,<br />
carpaccio, burgers<br />
and salads. A huge<br />
terrace gets the<br />
sun all year round,<br />
and the daily papers<br />
are available for<br />
your perusal.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Le Quai 7 (7 Quai<br />
Marcel-Boissard-<br />
Trentemoult, Reze,<br />
tel: 02 4075 6631)<br />
This restaurant has<br />
a fabulous view over<br />
the Loire and a menu<br />
to match. If you’ve<br />
never tasted them,<br />
this is the place to<br />
try a fricassee of<br />
frogs’ legs in garlic.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
L’Auguste (13<br />
Rue Kervegan, tel:<br />
02 4020 1317) A<br />
little soft jazz in<br />
the background, a<br />
relaxed atmoshere<br />
and an extensive<br />
wine list make<br />
L’Auguste a great<br />
place to end the<br />
day and start the<br />
evening. Try the<br />
sangria with a plate<br />
of smoked ham.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Dynamo Cafe<br />
(91 Rue du Marechal-<br />
Joff re, tel: 02 4048<br />
7918) This restaurant<br />
morphs into a club<br />
later in the evening,<br />
off ering rock and<br />
live bands until<br />
4am. There’s a<br />
covered smoking<br />
room and a drinks<br />
list as long as<br />
your arm.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Culture<br />
Bar Bars festival on<br />
24–26 November<br />
fi lls bars across<br />
town with concerts,<br />
art, board games,<br />
stand up comedians,<br />
theatre and DJs (barbars.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Brasserie La<br />
Cigale in Nantes has<br />
been described as<br />
“perhaps the most<br />
beautiful brasserie in<br />
the world”.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Europcar guarantees easyJet<br />
passengers great car rental deals.<br />
For your discounted price book<br />
at easyJet.com or visit the<br />
Europcar desk.
164 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Naples<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Ibiza, Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, STN), Madrid,<br />
Majorca, Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (ORY), Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
The shuttle<br />
stops at the train<br />
station and Piazza<br />
Municipio. Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Brandi<br />
(1–2 Salita Santa Anna<br />
di Palazzo, tel: 081 416<br />
928) From Bill Clinton<br />
to Pavarotti, the walls<br />
of this friendly pizzeria<br />
are lined with famous<br />
faces. A plaque outside<br />
commemorates the<br />
invention of the Pizza<br />
Margherita here.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Bersagliera (10–11<br />
Borgo Marinari, tel:<br />
081 764 6016) Fresh<br />
pasta and pastries<br />
are part of the primo<br />
Neapolitan cuisine you<br />
will fi nd here. Popular<br />
with locals for<br />
special occasions.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Teatro<br />
Sannazaro (157<br />
Via Chiaia, tel: 081<br />
418 824) Located<br />
along the popular<br />
Via Chiaia shopping<br />
street, this humble<br />
joint off ers some of<br />
the best peoplewatching<br />
in town.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Dug Out (6 Via<br />
Mergellina, tel: 081<br />
662 183) Dug Out is<br />
so named because the<br />
multilevel rooms of this<br />
trendy disco were dug<br />
right out of the ancient<br />
tufa stone hillside.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Home to so<br />
many of the city’s<br />
attractions, such as<br />
Spaccanapoli and the<br />
Santa Chiara cloister,<br />
it’s no wonder that<br />
Naples’ historic city<br />
centre is a UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site.<br />
Tui Cameron<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The poet Virgil<br />
allegedly hid a<br />
magical egg in the<br />
foundation of<br />
Naples’ Castel<br />
dell’Ovo (Egg<br />
Castle), which is<br />
how it earned that<br />
odd name.<br />
Newcastle<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Bristol, Faro,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta, Menorca,<br />
Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £18.<br />
The Metro<br />
goes to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: £2.70.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Café<br />
Paradiso (1 Market<br />
Lane, tel: 0191 232<br />
8923) A cosmopolitan<br />
menu, heavy on the<br />
Italian, but with<br />
strong infl uences<br />
from North Africa<br />
and Thailand and<br />
more than a hint of<br />
traditional English.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Grand Hotel (Grand<br />
Parade, Tynemouth,<br />
tel: 0191 293 6666)<br />
An aptly named<br />
hotel overlooking the<br />
rugged North Sea<br />
coastline. Dine in<br />
elegant surroundings,<br />
enjoying seafood<br />
specialities such<br />
as deep-sea John<br />
Dory with tiger<br />
prawns, lemon and<br />
parsley butter, and<br />
vanilla mash.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Anson (Station Road,<br />
Wallsend, tel: 0191<br />
262 3012) A great<br />
place to relax and<br />
watch sport on the big<br />
screen, play pool or<br />
simply enjoy a decent<br />
pint with your good<br />
old-fashioned roast<br />
on a Sunday.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Apartment (28–<br />
32 Collingwood Street,<br />
tel: 0191 230 4114)<br />
This contemporary<br />
bar is a perfect fi t for<br />
the beautiful crowd.<br />
Add to that musicians,<br />
vocalists and cuttingedge<br />
DJs supplying<br />
easy-listening<br />
background sounds,<br />
and it’s possibly the<br />
chicest bar in town.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Ouseburn<br />
area of the city has a<br />
thriving art scene and<br />
some nice little pubs.<br />
The Cluny boasts live<br />
bands, while children<br />
will love Seven Stories,<br />
a gallery and archive<br />
celebrating children’s<br />
books (ouseburn<br />
newcastle.org).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Newcastle United<br />
defender Billy<br />
McCracken invented<br />
football’s notorious<br />
off side trap back<br />
in 1908.<br />
Michelle Ord<br />
Nice<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Brussels,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,<br />
Newcastle, Paris (CDG,<br />
ORY), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local costs €30.<br />
Bus 98 stops at<br />
Nice’s Old Town<br />
and the Gare Routière.<br />
Bus 99 heads to the<br />
Gare SNCF. Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 La<br />
Pizzaïola (10 Rue<br />
Marceau, Cannes, tel:<br />
04 3399 5799) One<br />
of the best pizzerias<br />
in Cannes. The<br />
restaurant’s speciality<br />
is pizza, but salads,<br />
pasta, fi sh and grills<br />
are also on the menu.<br />
UP TO €30 Le 20<br />
sur Vin (18 bis Rue<br />
Biscarra, tel: 04 9392<br />
9320) This petite<br />
pavement café off<br />
Avenue Jean-Médecin<br />
pairs stuff ed sea<br />
bream, beef tartare<br />
and platters of<br />
regional cheeses<br />
with excellent French<br />
wines, many available<br />
by the glass.<br />
UP TO €50 Don<br />
Camillo Creations<br />
(5 Rue des<br />
Ponchettes, tel: 04<br />
9385 6795) Chef<br />
Marc Laville puts<br />
an elegant spin on<br />
traditional Niçoise<br />
cuisine. There is a<br />
well-priced lunchtime<br />
menu and you’ll<br />
fi nd Asian spices<br />
woven into more<br />
complex dishes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Auberge de la<br />
Madone (2 Place<br />
Auguste-Amulf,<br />
Peillon, tel: 04<br />
9379 9117) For fi ve<br />
generations, the Millo<br />
family have slaved<br />
over hot stoves.<br />
Lucky for you and<br />
me, they’re still<br />
serving their<br />
famous, authentic<br />
Provençal dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar at<br />
the Grand Hotel (45<br />
La Croisette, tel: 04<br />
9338 1545) The oldest<br />
hotel on the Croisette<br />
has had a facelift. Its<br />
lounge bar is ideal for<br />
pre-dinner drinks<br />
and also off ers an<br />
intimate and relaxing<br />
piano-bar area.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Cave<br />
Romagnan (22 Rue<br />
d’Angleterre, tel: 04<br />
9387 9155) Local<br />
artists and musicians<br />
make up the clientèle<br />
of this great little<br />
watering hole.
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Jazz sessions<br />
take place at the<br />
weekends and local<br />
bands perform<br />
on Thursdays.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Café Grand Prix<br />
(Quai Antoine 1er,<br />
Monaco, tel: 377<br />
9325 5690) Close to<br />
the harbour on the<br />
Rascasse bend of the<br />
Grand Prix racetrack,<br />
here you can choose<br />
from the groundfl<br />
oor Pit Bar with<br />
happy hour, DJ and<br />
live music until late<br />
into the night, or<br />
the Rascasse<br />
restaurant on the fi rst<br />
fl oor (open Tuesdays<br />
to Saturdays).<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP In the heart<br />
of the Old Town, Aux<br />
Parfums de Grasse<br />
is an ambassador<br />
for nearby Grasse’s<br />
fl ourishing perfume<br />
industry. Sniff<br />
out your favourite<br />
fragrances and have<br />
them transformed by<br />
a local craftsman “sur<br />
place” into unique<br />
perfumes (10 Rue<br />
Saint Gaetan).<br />
SEE Nice Manca<br />
Music Festival,<br />
organised by Nice’s<br />
National Centre of<br />
Musical Creation<br />
(CIRM) and taking<br />
place on 17–24<br />
November, hosts<br />
performances in<br />
selected venues<br />
across Nice, Monaco<br />
and Grasse<br />
(cirm-manca.org).<br />
GO Grab a glass of<br />
mulled wine and join<br />
the locals at Cagnes<br />
Sur Mer’s annual<br />
Fête de la Châtaigne<br />
(chestnut festival) on<br />
10 November. Live<br />
music and animal<br />
processions are just<br />
some of the festivities<br />
that accompany<br />
chestnut tastings.<br />
ESCAPE The coastal<br />
village of Cap d’Ail<br />
has been a classifi ed<br />
health resort since<br />
1921. Recognised by<br />
the environmental<br />
label Pavillon Bleu<br />
for its clean waters,<br />
the rocky coastlines<br />
off er the chance<br />
to see some of the<br />
Mediterranean’s<br />
rarest fl oras and<br />
pungent maritime<br />
pines. Bus No.100<br />
leaves Nice<br />
regularly from<br />
Place Garibaldi.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Nice has 1,200<br />
bicycles available<br />
on which to enjoy<br />
the 34km of cyclepaths<br />
available.<br />
John Brown<br />
HOTEL<br />
EXCELSIOR<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
With a warm family<br />
atmosphere, this<br />
hotel is the perfect<br />
platform from<br />
which to explore<br />
the Cote D’Azur.<br />
From €63, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Olbia<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bristol, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
The Linea Urbana<br />
bus goes to Olbia<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Da<br />
Paolo (22 Via Cavour,<br />
tel: 0789 21675) Da<br />
Paolo, nestled in<br />
Olbia’s historic centre,<br />
serves up freshly<br />
caught sea urchins and<br />
clams thrown together<br />
with homemade pasta.<br />
An intimate spot with<br />
just a few tables but<br />
ambience galore.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ristorante Gallura<br />
(145 Corso Umberto,<br />
tel: 0789 24648)<br />
High cuisine and an<br />
elegant environment<br />
are accompanied<br />
by fi ve-star service<br />
at the Gallura Hotel<br />
Restaurant, one of<br />
the best restaurants<br />
in Italy. The menu<br />
reads like a dictionary<br />
of Gallurese dishes,<br />
and Rita Denza, the<br />
maestro behind it all,<br />
fl its from table to table<br />
in her apron making<br />
sure her customers<br />
can navigate the<br />
multitude of choices.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Nord Est (87 Viale A<br />
Moro, tel: 0789 53456)<br />
Relax with an Italian<br />
espresso or a local<br />
glass of wine. This bar<br />
has also added a large<br />
menu of food for the<br />
lively crowd<br />
on weekends.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Villa Pascià (Via<br />
dei Maniscalchi)<br />
A fashionable club<br />
where you can drink<br />
the best cocktails<br />
and listen to nice live<br />
Latin-American music<br />
– either chilled out or<br />
racing hot.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Barbagia<br />
area, just to the south<br />
of Olbia, is the heart of<br />
Sardinia. It is perfect<br />
for trekking, free<br />
climbing, canyoning,<br />
mountain biking and<br />
excursions by quad.<br />
Its lovely little villages<br />
are very typical and<br />
characteristic, too.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
After-dark partying on<br />
the Costa Smeralda<br />
is mostly aboard<br />
massive super-yachts<br />
or at marina bars.<br />
Anna Barbieri<br />
Sitting S comfortably?<br />
advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 165<br />
Palermo<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (ORY), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
The Trinacria<br />
Express arrives at<br />
Palermo Notarbartolo.<br />
Tickets: €5.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
La Gondola (144<br />
Via Principe di<br />
Scordia, tel: 091 331<br />
748) Despite the<br />
Venetian name, this<br />
is probably the last of<br />
the authentic Sicilian<br />
taverns, with nononsense<br />
traditional<br />
home-cooking<br />
and atmosphere.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Il<br />
Ghiottone Raffi nato<br />
(3 Via Salvatore Vigo,<br />
tel: 091 251 4744)<br />
In the “living room”<br />
of Palermo, this tiny<br />
restaurant off ers<br />
refi ned, delectable<br />
creations made using<br />
the freshest fi sh and<br />
fi nest ingredients,<br />
accompanied by a<br />
formidable list of wines<br />
and good service.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Schiticchio (5–6<br />
Piazza Marina, tel:<br />
091 611 4868) Right<br />
on Piazza Marina,<br />
Schiticchio off ers a<br />
splendid view of the<br />
square and plenty<br />
of fi ne wines from<br />
the cellar.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Reloj (5 Via Pasquale<br />
Calvi, tel: 091 611<br />
9698) Housed in a<br />
former cinema, this<br />
is one of the see-andbe-seen<br />
places in<br />
Palermo. Eat, drink<br />
and listen to live music<br />
or just people-watch<br />
the night away.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The 53rd annual<br />
Festival of Sacred<br />
Music assembles<br />
musicians from<br />
all over the world<br />
to perform classic<br />
pieces in the majestic<br />
cathedral of Monreale,<br />
creating a delight<br />
to the ears as well<br />
as the eyes (12–21<br />
November, settimana<br />
musicasacra.info).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Among those who<br />
joined Garibaldi’s<br />
Mille army in Palermo<br />
during the process<br />
of Unifi cation was<br />
the celebrated writer<br />
Alexandre Dumas<br />
Sr, who penned such<br />
classics as The Three<br />
Musketeers and The<br />
Count of Montecristo.<br />
Conchita Vecchio<br />
Imagine over<br />
5 million people looking<br />
at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />
Make ppart<br />
of your plan today<br />
150x28 (5 MILLION) 14.10.11.indd 1 14/10/<strong>2011</strong> 15:01<br />
TAXI
166 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Paris<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir, Athens,<br />
Biarritz, Belfast (BFS),<br />
Berlin, Bologna, Brest,<br />
Brindisi, Bristol,<br />
Budapest, Cagliari,<br />
Casablanca, Catania,<br />
Copenhagen, Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio), Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Dubrovnik,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro, Fez,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Ibiza, Krakow, Lisbon,<br />
Liverpool, Ljubljana,<br />
London (LTN), Madrid,<br />
Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Marrakech, Menorca,<br />
Milan (MXP, LIN),<br />
Mykonos, Naples,<br />
Newcastle, Nice, Olbia,<br />
Palermo, Pisa, Porto,<br />
Prague, Rhodes, Rome<br />
(FCO), Split, Tangier,<br />
Thessaloniki, Toulouse,<br />
Venice, Verona, Zagreb<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
ORLY<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
The Orly bus<br />
stops at Place<br />
Denfert-Rochereau<br />
from 5.45am-11.30pm.<br />
Tickets: €6.80.<br />
CHARLES DE<br />
GAULLE<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €45.<br />
Take the RER<br />
B3 – trains leave<br />
every 15 minutes from<br />
5.25am–midnight.<br />
Tickets: €9.40.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Bar de<br />
l’Entracte (47 Rue<br />
du Montpensier,<br />
1st, tel: 01 4297<br />
5776) Located on<br />
a tiny street near<br />
the Jardins du<br />
Palais Royal, this<br />
scruff y, minuscule<br />
wine bar has a few<br />
mismatched tables<br />
where friendly<br />
locals cosy up<br />
for croque monsieur<br />
sandwiches and<br />
inventive salads.<br />
UP TO €30 Le<br />
Sporting (3 Rue des<br />
Récollets, 10th, tel:<br />
01 4607 0200) This<br />
is one of the more<br />
popular neo-bistros<br />
on the bohemian<br />
Canal Saint<br />
Martin, attracting<br />
a boisterous mix<br />
of thirtysomething<br />
locals and hipsters<br />
HILTON<br />
LA DEFENSE<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This Hilton hotel, just<br />
seven-minute metro<br />
ride from the Arc de<br />
Triomphe, is home<br />
to a top French<br />
gourmet restaurant.<br />
From €209, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
<br />
from across town.<br />
With wooden fl oors,<br />
crystal chandeliers,<br />
and daily specials<br />
written on the<br />
blackboard, grilled<br />
fi sh, steak fi llets and<br />
meaty salads round<br />
out the menu. The<br />
homemade foie gras<br />
starter can easily be<br />
shared by two.<br />
UP TO €50 Fish,<br />
La Boissonnerie (69<br />
Rue de Seine, 6th,<br />
tel: 01 4354 3469)<br />
Fresh Mediterranean<br />
cuisine and<br />
an excellent<br />
international wine<br />
list make this<br />
restaurant stand out<br />
among the bland<br />
cafés and takeaway<br />
eateries of the<br />
Marché Buci. Behind<br />
the colourful mosaic<br />
façade is a casual<br />
dining room with<br />
wooden benches,<br />
which are usually<br />
packed full of local<br />
gallery owners and<br />
well-to-do diners.<br />
Get there early<br />
or book ahead.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Arpège (84 Rue<br />
de Varenne, tel:<br />
01 4705 0906)<br />
Alain Passard’s<br />
three-star restaurant<br />
specialises in highquality<br />
vegetarian<br />
cuisine, whose<br />
ingredients are<br />
sourced from the<br />
chef’s own organic<br />
garden outside Paris,<br />
although there are<br />
some delicious meat<br />
options on the menu,<br />
too. Located near<br />
the Musée Rodin,<br />
the venue is intimate<br />
and perfect for<br />
a romantic meal.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
L’Entracte des<br />
Gobelins (75 Avenue<br />
des Gobelins, tel: 01<br />
4331 0229) Located<br />
opposite two movie<br />
theatres, this typical<br />
French bar is a<br />
great place to stop<br />
for a quick meal, a<br />
baguette sandwich<br />
or just a drink, and is<br />
open every day from<br />
7am to 2am. There<br />
are newspapers,<br />
magazines, several<br />
TV screens and<br />
friendly staff .<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Le Caveau des<br />
Oubliettes (52 Rue<br />
Galande, 5th, tel:<br />
01 4634 2309) The<br />
bar upstairs isn’t<br />
remarkable, but the<br />
narrow stairs at the<br />
back lead down to<br />
the cellar, a former<br />
prison – oubliettes<br />
means “dungeon”.<br />
Now it’s a popular<br />
Latin Quarter music<br />
bar, with regular<br />
jazz, blues and<br />
rock concerts.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The New VIP Room<br />
(188 Rue de Rivoli,<br />
1st, tel: 01 5836<br />
4600) The most<br />
exclusive club in<br />
Paris has moved<br />
from the Champs-<br />
Elysées to the old<br />
Scala Club across<br />
from the Tuileries<br />
Gardens, but expect<br />
the same tough entry<br />
policy, bling-bling<br />
clientèle and bigname<br />
DJs.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Harry’s New<br />
York Bar (5 Rue<br />
Daunou, 2nd, tel:<br />
01 4261 7114) Join<br />
the Parisian posttheatre<br />
crowd at<br />
this boisterous bar<br />
between the Opéra<br />
Garnier and Place<br />
Vendôme until the<br />
wee hours. Famed as<br />
one of Hemingway’s<br />
haunts and the<br />
birthplace of the<br />
Bloody Mary, the bar<br />
also has live piano<br />
music downstairs,<br />
where Gershwin<br />
composed An<br />
American in Paris.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Most of the<br />
shops along the ritzy<br />
Champs Elysées<br />
carry brands you<br />
could fi nd on any<br />
major city’s high<br />
street. But Le 66 is<br />
a unique concept<br />
store with a<br />
pronounced street<br />
vibe selling clothing<br />
and accessories from<br />
the latest up-andcoming<br />
designers<br />
from around the<br />
world and with<br />
something to suit<br />
all budgets (66<br />
Avenue des Champs-<br />
Elysées, 8th, tel:<br />
01 5353 3380).<br />
SEE The 15th<br />
annual Paris Photo<br />
exhibition takes<br />
place on 10–13<br />
November, featuring<br />
the works of over<br />
500 photographers<br />
and 117 galleries from<br />
23 countries at the<br />
Grand Palais (Avenue<br />
Winston Churchill,<br />
parisphoto.fr).<br />
GO Bercy was<br />
rebuilt from the<br />
old wine-bottling<br />
district, and is<br />
now home to the<br />
romantic Bercy Park,<br />
the Cinémathèque<br />
Française, and Bercy<br />
Village, a pedestrianonly<br />
street lined with<br />
bars, boutiques and<br />
cafés. It’s accessible<br />
via the driverless<br />
Météor (metro line<br />
14), making it a<br />
snap to reach from<br />
the centre in just<br />
a few minutes.<br />
ESCAPE Chantilly<br />
is a perfectly<br />
preserved town in<br />
the centre of one of<br />
the largest forests<br />
near Paris. It has a<br />
prestigious Living<br />
Horse Museum<br />
in 18th-century<br />
stables and a worldrenowned<br />
collection<br />
of paintings at the<br />
Musée Condé<br />
(in the Château de<br />
Chantilly). The town<br />
is just 30 minutes<br />
by train from<br />
Paris Gare du<br />
Nord (chantillytourisme.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Paris metro has<br />
245 stations, but<br />
only one is named<br />
after a woman:<br />
Louise Michel<br />
(1830–1905) was<br />
an anarchist and<br />
school teacher who<br />
made a name for<br />
herself fi ghting on<br />
the barricades of<br />
the French civil war<br />
known as the Paris<br />
Commune in 1871.<br />
Heather Stimmler-Hall
Nouveau Monde DDB Toulouse - The Pink Panther & © 1964-2009<br />
Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios Inc. All Rights Reserved. www.pixteur.com<br />
BEST VALUE IN PARIS<br />
THE HOTEL TAYLOR WILL DELIGHT BOTH YOU AND YOUR WALLET<br />
ON THE RIGHT BANK, in a peaceful,<br />
secluded position on a quiet one-way<br />
street just outside the bustling centre<br />
of Paris and within walking distance<br />
of Notre Dame, the family-run<br />
boutique Hotel Taylor is the perfect<br />
base from which to enjoy a romantic<br />
8 days / 7 nights<br />
in a Village club<br />
“full board with<br />
ski pass” from<br />
€ 369<br />
per pers*<br />
* Special conditions<br />
and offers stays<br />
www.ax-ski.com<br />
www.ax-ski.com<br />
SPECIAL<br />
OFFER<br />
Special rates<br />
for November, visit<br />
paristaylorhotel.com<br />
for more info<br />
break in the City of Light. Just a<br />
short walk from the lively Marais<br />
district and close to major department<br />
stores, the Place des Vosges, Bastille<br />
and Canal Saint Martin, the hotel’s<br />
location is unbeatable.<br />
With a charming and cosy ambience<br />
Ax,<br />
le blanc tendance<br />
by la panthère rose<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
as well as 37 newly refurbished,<br />
sound-proofed guestrooms and<br />
modern, romantic interiors, you’ll<br />
be tempted to stay in, as well as<br />
to go out. Hotel amenities include<br />
free WiFi, a fl at-screen TV in every<br />
bedroom and a sumptuous buffet<br />
breakfast. And the hotel’s attentive<br />
and experienced staff are always<br />
on hand to help with restaurant<br />
suggestions, taxi bookings and more.<br />
Last but not least, Hotel Taylor is<br />
outstanding value for money – with<br />
single rooms from just €80 and<br />
doubles from €91, it is the hotel of<br />
choice for savvy travellers.<br />
Hôtel Taylor, 6 rue Taylor, 75010<br />
Paris, tel: +33 (0)1 4240 1101<br />
Email: contact@paristaylorhotel.com<br />
paristaylorhotel.com<br />
Available l bl in the h best b<br />
European airports<br />
PROTECTION<br />
The special plastic film ensures total<br />
physical protection of the luggage.<br />
BAGGAGE TRACKING<br />
The luggage traceability is guaranteed<br />
from boarding to delivery.<br />
REFUNDS UP TO € 3.000<br />
www.safe-bag.com
168 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Pisa<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €7.<br />
CPT buses go<br />
to the centre.<br />
Route 3 stops at<br />
Pisa Central. Tickets:<br />
€0.80 (at the airport).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Antica<br />
Trattoria Il Campano<br />
(19 Piazza delle<br />
Vettovaglie, tel: 050<br />
580 585) Friendly<br />
owner and chef Gian<br />
Piero is a huge fan<br />
of the truffl e and it<br />
shows at his charming<br />
restaurant. Try it<br />
with tagliolini pasta,<br />
carpaccio of meat,<br />
or with a fi llet steak.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Le Repubbliche<br />
Marinare (8 Vicolo<br />
Ricciardi, tel: 050<br />
20506) A seafood<br />
restaurant that pays<br />
homage to Pisa’s<br />
past as a maritime<br />
republic. The menu<br />
is as delectable as<br />
it is varied, from the<br />
seafood antipasto<br />
to the main courses<br />
featuring lobster,<br />
swordfi sh, bass and<br />
baby octopus.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar/<br />
Pasticceria Siciliana<br />
(29 Via Garibaldi, tel:<br />
050 970 146) After<br />
dinner, have dessert<br />
and a glass of prosecco<br />
at this Sicilian bar. The<br />
cannoli and cassata<br />
siciliana (cream cake)<br />
are heavenly.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Caff e Dell’Ussero<br />
(27 Lungarno<br />
Pacinotti) This historic<br />
café started out as a<br />
university haunt, but<br />
is now frequented by<br />
locals and tourists<br />
alike. It gets noisy<br />
and animated<br />
when students and<br />
professors engage<br />
in lively debate.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Leaning<br />
Tower in alabaster<br />
is over one metre<br />
long. Artistic alabster<br />
craftsman have<br />
spent three years<br />
constructing it and<br />
now it is being shown<br />
to the public for free in<br />
Volterra at the Salone<br />
Espositivo of the<br />
former Ospedale Civile<br />
in Piazza San Giovanni.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Historically Pisa has<br />
always attracted<br />
poets. English poet<br />
Byron rhapsodized<br />
of its beauty.<br />
Silvia Falsaperla<br />
Porto<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Paris<br />
(CDG), Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Metro trains take<br />
you to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.50 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Casa<br />
Agrícola (241–243<br />
Rua Bom Sucesso,<br />
tel: 22 605 3350) A<br />
friendly atmosphere<br />
is generated in this<br />
wonderfully restored<br />
building. Try the<br />
smoked duck breast<br />
with blackberry sauce.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurante Dona<br />
Filipa (Hotel Infante<br />
Sagres, 62 Praça Dona<br />
Filipa de Lencastre,<br />
tel: 22 339 8500) This<br />
opulent restaurant<br />
off ers a fi ne mix<br />
of Portuguese and<br />
international dishes,<br />
with quality service<br />
and piano music.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Contagiarte (372 Rua<br />
Álvares Cabral, tel: 22<br />
200 0682) This place<br />
is all about the music<br />
and it goes on all<br />
night long, with bands<br />
blasting out jazz and<br />
rock tunes.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The ancient<br />
town of Guimarães<br />
is hosting its 20th<br />
annual jazz festival<br />
on 10–19 November.<br />
The city is one of<br />
Portugal’s treasures,<br />
so will put on a great<br />
show for the public.<br />
Buy tickets before<br />
the day of events<br />
(ccvf.pt).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Porto’s São Bento<br />
railway station has<br />
been voted by the<br />
American Travel+<br />
Leisure Magazine as<br />
one of the 16 most<br />
beautiful stations in<br />
the world. The 19thcentury<br />
masterpiece<br />
includes 20,000<br />
splendid azulejo tiles.<br />
Joseph Guerra<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Café Majestic (112<br />
Rua Santa Catarina,<br />
tel: 22 200 3887)<br />
This local institution<br />
is one of Europe’s<br />
most historic<br />
coff ee houses.<br />
Enjoy indulgent<br />
chocolate cake.<br />
Prague<br />
Czech Republic<br />
DIALLING CODE +420<br />
CURRENCY CZK<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Bristol, London (LGW,<br />
STN), Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
Cedaz van costs CZK90<br />
per person.<br />
Catch bus 119<br />
to Dejvicka then<br />
take the metro to the<br />
city. Tickets: CZK26.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
U Pravdu (15 Zitna,<br />
tel: 222 233 915) The<br />
charming old-school<br />
décor, complete<br />
with wood panelling,<br />
dusty bric a brac and<br />
sepia photographs,<br />
gives U Pravdu its<br />
cosy, welcoming<br />
atmosphere. The<br />
hearty Czech cuisine<br />
isn’t too bad either!<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Allegro (Four<br />
Seasons Hotel, 2A<br />
Veleslavinova, tel: 221<br />
427 000) Allegro is<br />
the proud owner of<br />
Prague’s fi rst Michelin<br />
star. Serving exquisite<br />
Mediterranean<br />
fl avours with<br />
traditional Czech<br />
ingredients, it off ers<br />
an impressive<br />
dining experience.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Erra (11<br />
Konviktska, tel: 222<br />
220 568) This chilledout,<br />
gay-friendly café<br />
is a real local’s haunt.<br />
Make sure to head<br />
downstairs to the cosy<br />
cellar fi replace – it’s<br />
the perfect place to<br />
warm up on a chilly<br />
autumn night.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Ocko Music Club (5<br />
Kvetna 1640, Prague<br />
4, tel: 773 299 992)<br />
This classy club is<br />
a good example of<br />
the modern Czech<br />
disco, with hired go-go<br />
dancers to boot. Put<br />
on your smartest shirt<br />
and highest high heels<br />
to fi t in with the crowd.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Prague’s O2<br />
arena will host several<br />
exciting musical<br />
events this month,<br />
from the Transmission<br />
dance music night<br />
on 19 November,<br />
to the symphonybacked<br />
croonings of<br />
George Michael on<br />
14 November (460<br />
Ocelarska, o2arena.cz).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The degree symbol<br />
on your Czech beer<br />
doesn’t indicate<br />
temperature, but rather<br />
the amount of malt<br />
extracted. Ten-degree<br />
beers, such as a pale<br />
lager, are typically the<br />
lightest and sweetest.<br />
Dana Dramowicz /<br />
prague-life.com<br />
Cumbria boasts the perfect<br />
package for investors<br />
For more information and to see what business sites and premises<br />
are on offer visit www.investincumbria.co.uk
Hotel Castle Residence Praha<br />
Květinářská 755, 182 00 Praha 8<br />
Czech Republic<br />
Tel: +420 283 881 604,<br />
Fax: +420 284 689 840<br />
E-mail: info@castleresidence.cz<br />
mon-sat<br />
8am-8pm<br />
Our newly renovated 18th century<br />
mansion is located in the picturesque<br />
wine growing area of Prague-Troja. With<br />
an easy 15 min. access to the very heart<br />
of the famous Old Town, our former<br />
wine estate offers the privacy and the<br />
space you deserve after an exciting day<br />
of sightseeing or a busy working day.<br />
• private garden (25 acres)<br />
• free secure parking<br />
• free transfer to Metro or Tram<br />
(2 min.)<br />
• non smoking restaurant<br />
• summer terrace<br />
• 240 sqm wellness area<br />
• indoor pool<br />
• historic wine cellar<br />
www.castleresidence.cz<br />
• bowling<br />
• children’s playground<br />
• 28 spacious rooms and suites<br />
• 180sqm separate Baroque<br />
residence in the garden<br />
• family accommodation<br />
• free WiFi<br />
• air conditioning<br />
• free coffee and tea facilities<br />
atmosphere<br />
campus<br />
Asian market<br />
www.prague-market.cz<br />
Unique atmosphere of old market places,<br />
colorful streets full of merchandise, farmers'<br />
market, souvenirs or trendy club SaSaZu.<br />
Bubenské nábřeží 306 - PRAHA 7<br />
For groups up to 8 guests<br />
we recommend our 180 sqm<br />
separate Baroque Garden<br />
House, special packages<br />
available.<br />
Rates starting at 85 EUR for a<br />
double and 75 EUR for single.<br />
metro C<br />
st. Vltavská<br />
tram<br />
1,2,5,25<br />
st. Pražská<br />
tržnice
170 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Pristina<br />
Kosovo<br />
DIALLING CODE +381<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
PanExpert (1 Rruga<br />
Bajram Kelmendi,<br />
tel: 044 197 520) For<br />
a quick and healthy<br />
snack, there’s no<br />
better place than this<br />
German bakery in<br />
central Pristina, which<br />
has delicious fresh<br />
bread, sandwiches,<br />
cake and more.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Puro<br />
(Veternik, tel: 038 602<br />
099) A short taxi drive<br />
south of town, mingle<br />
with ambassadors<br />
and business bigwigs<br />
at this sleek gourmet<br />
restaurant and cocktail<br />
bar. Try some of the<br />
excellent homemade<br />
cakes and pastries.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Studio<br />
53 (5 Rruga Rexhep<br />
Luci, tel: 045 611<br />
111) As if there are<br />
not enough great<br />
places to get coff ee<br />
in this city of café<br />
connoisseurs, this<br />
new bar is the local<br />
embassy for the<br />
Italian Attibassi<br />
coff ee brand. Sip your<br />
excellent espresso<br />
or cappuccino,<br />
people-watch from<br />
the terrace, or dig<br />
into a meal.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Ninety-One<br />
(Rruga Luan<br />
Haradinaj, tel: 044 221<br />
991) Pristina’s premier<br />
pub has everything<br />
you need for a night of<br />
debauchery: decent<br />
food, various beers<br />
on tap, cocktails<br />
and occasional<br />
karaoke nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Peja Street<br />
Fair <strong>2011</strong> is held on<br />
10 and 11 November,<br />
from around noon<br />
until 7pm. A trade<br />
fair with information<br />
on what to see and<br />
do in the region,<br />
visitors can<br />
expect cultural<br />
performances, crafts,<br />
wine tasting and<br />
plenty of traditional<br />
food and drink.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Pristina grew from<br />
a small rural town to<br />
a national capital in<br />
just a few decades.<br />
Wonderful old photos<br />
comparing before<br />
and after can be<br />
viewed online and<br />
there’s also a book.<br />
Jeroen van Marle,<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
<br />
Holiday House Bocci - Foligno - Umbria<br />
Rome<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Athens, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />
Bilbao, Bristol, Corfu,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Malta, Milan (MXP),<br />
Mykonos, Nice,<br />
Palermo, Paris (ORY),<br />
Split, Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about €40.<br />
The Bus Shuttle<br />
takes you to<br />
Termini station. Buy<br />
onboard, tickets: €15.<br />
Metropolitan<br />
FM1 trains go to<br />
Tiburtina until 12am.<br />
Tickets: €5.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Mario’s<br />
(53 Via del Moro,<br />
tel: 06 580 3809) A<br />
traditional low-key and<br />
inexpensive family-run<br />
restaurant in the<br />
heart of Trastevere.<br />
Go for the excellent<br />
ravioli and vegetable<br />
antipasti, but take<br />
an extra pullover<br />
because, like many<br />
places in Rome, it is<br />
not heated very well<br />
at this time of year.<br />
UP TO €30 Osteria<br />
dell’Angelo (24 Via<br />
G. Bettolo, tel: 06 372<br />
9470) Bordering the<br />
Prati and Trionfale<br />
districts, Angelo<br />
Croce’s restaurant is<br />
buzzing and popular,<br />
especially, bizarrely<br />
enough, among<br />
the city’s rugby<br />
fans. The cooking is<br />
typically Roman with<br />
traditional delicacies<br />
such as cow’s tail.<br />
UP TO €50 Uno<br />
e Bino (58 Via degli<br />
Equi, San Lorenzo,<br />
tel: 06 446 0702)<br />
Outstanding gourmet<br />
food that refl ects the<br />
Gravina family roots<br />
in Umbria and Sicily.<br />
Try their wonderful<br />
Parmiggiano souffl é<br />
or if you are feeling<br />
adventurous, the<br />
octopus salad.<br />
Edy (4 Vicolo del<br />
Babuino, tel: 06<br />
3600 1738) An<br />
elegant family-run<br />
establishment. The<br />
tagliatelli all Greca<br />
(fresh pasta with<br />
aubergine, feta and<br />
olives) is delicious,<br />
and their house red<br />
is more than passable.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Le Sans Souci (20<br />
Via Sicilia, tel: 06<br />
4201 4510)<br />
Dine in beautiful<br />
surroundings on<br />
delights such as duckdove<br />
in a millefeuille<br />
crust, tortelli with<br />
truffl es, or steamed<br />
sea bass prepared<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
under the exacting<br />
gaze of chef<br />
Bruno Borghesi.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Latteria<br />
del Gallo (4 Vicolo<br />
del Gallo, tel: 06 686<br />
5091) Take a trip back<br />
to the 1950s and<br />
1960s in the<br />
city centre’s last<br />
old-style milk bar. Old<br />
football posters peel<br />
off the walls along<br />
with the paint.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Be Bop Jazz and<br />
Blueslive Club (14<br />
Via Giulietti, tel: 06<br />
5728 8959) In the<br />
thankfully pong-free<br />
surroundings of<br />
a former cheese<br />
factory, this warm<br />
and welcoming club<br />
is great for live music,<br />
largely jazz and blues.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Saponeria (20 Via<br />
degli Argonauti, tel:<br />
06 574 6999) La<br />
Saponeria (the Soap<br />
Factory) is host to<br />
some of Italy’s leading<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Camponeschi (50<br />
Piazza Farnese, tel:<br />
06 687 4927) Enjoy a<br />
fi rst course of superb<br />
tagliolini souffl é<br />
fl avoured with porcini<br />
mushrooms and<br />
then for main try<br />
the partridge.<br />
DJs. Only open from<br />
Thursday–Saturday,<br />
but always teeming<br />
with customers on<br />
those nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Antonella<br />
& Fabrizio is a<br />
discount store selling<br />
big labels such as<br />
Calvin Klein Jeans,<br />
DKNY and Armani<br />
Jeans (Corso Vittorio<br />
Emmanuele II).<br />
SEE Don’t miss the<br />
Rome Jazz Festival.<br />
An array of<br />
international artists<br />
will be in town to<br />
perform at the ultramodern<br />
Auditorium<br />
Parco della Musica<br />
on 11–30 November.<br />
GO Take refuge for<br />
an evening in Piazza<br />
San Lorenzo in Lucina<br />
with its fashionable<br />
wine bars, historic<br />
cafés, and altogether<br />
more chilled-out vibe.<br />
ESCAPE Carved<br />
out of an enormous<br />
plateau of volcanic<br />
rock, the centre<br />
of Orvieto is a<br />
wonderful place for<br />
lunch, an afternoon<br />
passeggiata (stroll)<br />
or a glass of wine.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Many people still<br />
talk the old Roman<br />
way, which among<br />
other things means<br />
chopping the ends<br />
off most words. For<br />
example, “let’s eat”<br />
in standard Italian is<br />
andiamo a mangiare,<br />
while in Romanaccio<br />
it becomes namo<br />
a magna.<br />
Alan Goldwater
Italian cuisine, modern bar, Cigar<br />
Point, former factory premises,<br />
all this and more can be found in<br />
restaurant BÍLKOVA 13, which is<br />
situated in the Bílkova Street that<br />
you will find right near Pařížská<br />
Street in Prague 1.<br />
SPECIAL TIP<br />
Beef Wednesday<br />
Shrimp Wednesday<br />
Family Brunch<br />
www.bilkova13.cz
GO THE<br />
XL MILE<br />
A V A I L A B L E O N B O A R D<br />
PROMOTION PRICE<br />
TWO FOR<br />
£15.00/€19.50<br />
FOLLOW US:
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Santiago de<br />
Compostela<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
Just<br />
Dessert<br />
A SUGAR-COATED<br />
GUIDE TO AMSTERDAM’S<br />
BEST SWEET TREATS<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20<br />
A bus goes to<br />
the centre every<br />
half hour. Tickets: €3<br />
single; €5 return<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Cre-<br />
Cotteê (1 Praza da<br />
Quintana, tel: 981 577<br />
643) Tired and hungry<br />
after walking around<br />
the cathedral? The<br />
premium location of<br />
this crêperie and its<br />
choice of light dishes<br />
– mainly crêpes, but<br />
also pasta, salads and<br />
more – makes it a<br />
good option for lunch.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Texturas Galegas<br />
(33 Algalia de Abaixo,<br />
tel: 981 168 228) The<br />
name says it all: this<br />
smart tavern serves<br />
up innovative cuisine<br />
made using traditional,<br />
high-quality Galician<br />
products. Their original<br />
tapas and the variety<br />
Where to fi nd early snow<br />
Party like it’s 1969 in Berlin<br />
Art at the Hadron Collider<br />
Our network’s best Xmas gifts<br />
An ode to Thessaloniki<br />
NOVEMBER <strong>2011</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />
001 Cover Final.indd 1 13/10/<strong>2011</strong> 08:52<br />
of the wine menu are<br />
earning a name for the<br />
place among locals.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Soul<br />
& Sombra (30 Fray<br />
Rosendo Salvado)<br />
If you’re looking<br />
for a relaxed, warm<br />
atmosphere for a<br />
chat and a drink to<br />
relax in, then this is<br />
the place for you. If<br />
you are into jazz and<br />
soul music, so much<br />
the better.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Los Malditos (16<br />
Galeras) This place<br />
was founded by two<br />
Argentinian friends<br />
and named after<br />
the French “damned<br />
poets”. It features a<br />
good musical choice,<br />
a friendly atmosphere<br />
and Wi-Fi in case you<br />
can’t live without<br />
your smartphone.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE If you want to<br />
learn a bit more about<br />
Galician culture, then<br />
visit the pavilion as it<br />
was shown at the World<br />
Exhibition in Seville,<br />
1992. Find out all about<br />
local heritage, tradition<br />
and the St Jacques<br />
Way at this building on<br />
Fernando de Casas<br />
Novoa Avenue.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
You have probably<br />
heard about the St<br />
Jacques Way. However,<br />
depending on the<br />
route you follow,<br />
there are at least 10<br />
ofi cially recognised<br />
diff erent ways.<br />
Pablo Carballo<br />
Seville<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €22.<br />
The bus to the<br />
city runs from<br />
5.45am–12.45am.<br />
Tickets: €2.40<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Vineria<br />
San Telmo (4 Paseo de<br />
Catalina de Ribera, tel:<br />
954 410 600) Off ering<br />
a refreshing Basque<br />
take on traditional<br />
cuisine, this is one of<br />
the best restaurants in<br />
the Santa Cruz area.<br />
Try the foie gras with<br />
quails’ eggs, lychees<br />
and black pudding.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurante La<br />
Albahaca (Plaza de<br />
Santa Cruz 12, tel: 954<br />
220 714) This place is a<br />
gem, located in a pretty<br />
square with several<br />
rooms, all decked out<br />
with antiques and<br />
traditional tilework. The<br />
menu includes meaty<br />
choices like pig trotters<br />
with mushrooms.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
Europa (Siete<br />
Revueltas 35, tel: 954<br />
217 908) Just off the<br />
charmingly named<br />
Plaza de Pan (Bread<br />
Square), this corner<br />
bar is atmospheric<br />
and welcoming with<br />
its half-tiled interior,<br />
hams hanging over<br />
the bar and superb<br />
range of wines.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Robotica (Calle<br />
Alfalfa) There is plenty<br />
of clubbing choice in<br />
this area, including<br />
Robotica, which has<br />
entertaining comic<br />
book wallpaper and<br />
cocktails including<br />
(reputedly) the best<br />
mojito in town.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Ask for an Agua de<br />
Sevilla at a bar here<br />
and you’ll be treated to<br />
a potent concoction of<br />
four diff erent liquors,<br />
cava, pineapple juice<br />
and cream.<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
GIRALDA<br />
PANORAMIC<br />
SEE It’s a cooler<br />
time of year so<br />
there’s no excuse not<br />
to climb the Giralda<br />
and enjoy one of<br />
the most stunning<br />
vistas in the city<br />
with its eclectic and<br />
historic skyline.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 173<br />
Sharm El<br />
Sheikh Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW, LTN),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about EGP120.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Onions<br />
(Na’ama Bay, La Strada<br />
and Il Mercato, tel:<br />
069 3600 050) This<br />
popular chain serves<br />
consistently good food<br />
at very reasonable<br />
prices. Burgers, pizza,<br />
pasta and sandwiches<br />
all feature on the<br />
extensive menu.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Il Frantoio (Four<br />
Seasons Resort, tel:<br />
069 360 3555) The<br />
outdoor terrace here<br />
overlooks a courtyard<br />
complete with fi replace<br />
and fountain. Fine<br />
Italian dishes include<br />
pan-seared scallops,<br />
artichokes and smoked<br />
duck breast. From the<br />
dessert menu, choose<br />
chocolate semifreddo<br />
with a cherry<br />
Are you interested in advertising to<br />
5m passengers per month?<br />
Please contact our advertising sales team<br />
on +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
centre and<br />
kumquat compote –<br />
absolute heaven!<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Oxygen<br />
Bar (Soho Square,<br />
tel: 010 160 9544)<br />
Inhale your choice of<br />
fl avoured gas at the<br />
Oxygen Bar in Soho<br />
Square and reap the<br />
benefi ts of a clear<br />
mind, increased energy<br />
levels and vanishing<br />
headaches. Prices<br />
range according to the<br />
length of your session,<br />
with fi ve minutes being<br />
the shortest.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Pangaea Club<br />
& Lounge (Soho<br />
Square, tel: 069<br />
360 2752) Pangaea<br />
fuses African, Asian<br />
and European décor<br />
to create a stylish<br />
clubbing environment.<br />
Each night features a<br />
diff erent theme, from<br />
urban grooves to funky<br />
house and electro, club<br />
classics and salsa.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Take a riding<br />
lesson if you’re a<br />
beginner, while more<br />
experienced riders<br />
can enjoy a ride<br />
along the beach or<br />
through the desert on<br />
horseback (book with<br />
Omar Riding Club,<br />
tel: 012 3493 830).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Nabq<br />
Protectorate in Sharm<br />
el Sheikh is home to<br />
the most northerly<br />
mangrove forest in<br />
the world.<br />
Penny Orford<br />
00000 EasyJet Sales 5mil Banner.indd 1 17/10/<strong>2011</strong> 16:17<br />
TAXI
174 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Sofia<br />
Bulgaria<br />
DIALLING CODE +359<br />
CURRENCY Leu (BGN)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about BGN14.<br />
Catch bus Nos.<br />
84 or 284.<br />
Tickets: BGN1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Pavilion (37<br />
Oborishte Ulitsa, tel:<br />
087 616 7080) The<br />
perfect place for a<br />
good start to the day<br />
or a delicious lunch:<br />
a daily menu of fi sh,<br />
salads and soups.<br />
The bread made<br />
here is amazing.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Cabra Natural<br />
Foods & Bar (18<br />
Oborishte Ulitsa,<br />
tel: 02 846 8687)<br />
Here you will fi nd<br />
only vegetarian<br />
dishes, cooked by<br />
recipes mainly from<br />
South America –<br />
from the highest<br />
points of the Andes,<br />
to the coast of<br />
Brasil’s beaches.<br />
The products the<br />
chefs use here are<br />
100% natural.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Mara (62 Neofi t<br />
Rilski Ulitsa, tel:<br />
02 981 2001) This<br />
artisticly decorated<br />
place is perfect for<br />
anyone who just<br />
wants to sit and<br />
drink something<br />
without noisy crowds<br />
around: quiet, cosy<br />
and pleasant.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Karabas Barabas<br />
(23 Pop Bogomil<br />
Ulitsa) Hidden in the<br />
narrow streets of the<br />
city centre, this place<br />
off ers very good<br />
alternative music,<br />
paintings on the<br />
walls and sausages<br />
for tapas.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Rila<br />
Monastery is situated<br />
in a deep gorge in the<br />
heart of the majestic<br />
Rila Mountain, about<br />
120km from Sofi a,<br />
and close to the<br />
Greek border. The<br />
country’s largest<br />
spiritual and cultural<br />
temple is one of<br />
the most popular<br />
attractions in<br />
all of Bulgaria.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Bulgaria has the<br />
third highest<br />
number of valuable<br />
archaeological<br />
monuments in<br />
Europe, just behind<br />
Greece and Italy.<br />
Maya Kozareva<br />
Stockholm<br />
Sweden<br />
DIALLING CODE +46<br />
CURRENCY Krona (SEK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about SEK450.<br />
Flygbussarna<br />
coaches depart<br />
for the city centre.<br />
Tickets: SEK219 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Steam<br />
(1 Kungsbroplan,<br />
Vasastan, tel: 08<br />
268 162) This pale<br />
pastel kiosk serves<br />
soft and succulent<br />
steamed dumplings.<br />
No mysterious<br />
ingredients, green<br />
thinking and low<br />
prices have made<br />
this Asian street food<br />
outlet a smash hit.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Svartengrens (24<br />
Tulegatan, Vasastan,<br />
tel: 08 612 6550) This<br />
purveyor of locally<br />
produced meat has an<br />
adoring following. The<br />
great selection of wine<br />
and beer and the cosy<br />
dining rooms make it<br />
a real winner. Four or<br />
more people should<br />
order the meat platter<br />
for a real feast.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
Brooklyn (4 Hornstull<br />
Strand, Södermalm)<br />
Americana rules at<br />
the latest addition to<br />
Strand’s riverfront<br />
empire of hipness.<br />
Brooklyn Lager on<br />
tap, country on the<br />
stereo and USA diner<br />
staples to fi ll up on.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Strand (4 Hornstull<br />
Strand, Södermalm,<br />
tel: 08 658 6350)<br />
After enjoying a<br />
drink or two at Bar<br />
Brooklyn, head to<br />
Strand, its livelier<br />
older sibling, which<br />
is just next door.<br />
Expect edgy rock,<br />
electronica and hip<br />
hop, and a hipper than<br />
thou crowd.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE What happens<br />
in translations<br />
between cultures and<br />
languages, between<br />
viewer and artwork?<br />
Head to The Spiral<br />
and the Square at<br />
Bonniers Konsthall, a<br />
large group exhibition<br />
that is attempting to<br />
answer that question<br />
(bonnierskonsthall.se).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Fika is a very Swedish<br />
thing. It’s impossible<br />
to translate, but it<br />
basically means to<br />
meet up with friends<br />
for a cup of coff ee<br />
and a piece of cake or<br />
pastry, or a sandwich.<br />
Victoria Larsson<br />
Tallinn<br />
Estonia<br />
DIALLING CODE +372<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €10.<br />
Bus No. 2 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1 from the<br />
kiosk. A new route by<br />
Hansabuss connects<br />
the airport with the city<br />
centre twice an hour<br />
8am–6pm. Tickets: €2.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Korsaar (5 Dunkri,<br />
Old Town, tel: 666<br />
8064) Tuck into Creole<br />
cuisine that would<br />
please any hardened<br />
sailor at this piratethemed<br />
restaurant.<br />
Worth every penny, the<br />
food on off er is perfect<br />
for a relaxing dinner.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Horisont (Swissôtel<br />
Tallinn, 3 Tornimäe,<br />
tel: 624 2416) The<br />
chic and sophisticated<br />
Horisont Restaurant,<br />
Bar and Cigar Lounge<br />
off ers a modern<br />
and eclectic mix of<br />
dining underlined by<br />
great service, with<br />
spectacular views (it’s<br />
on the 30th fl oor).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Musi<br />
(6 Niguliste, tel: 644<br />
3100) Enjoy a drink or<br />
two and share some<br />
nibbles in this romantic<br />
bar. The name Musi<br />
also means “kiss”<br />
in Estonian.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Venus Club (14 Vana-<br />
Viru) A former fi re<br />
station that has been<br />
redecorated to remind<br />
you of the 1,001<br />
Nights. Rub shoulders<br />
with local party-goers<br />
in their mid-twenties.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Estonians consider<br />
Vana Tallinn liqueur<br />
their national potion.<br />
The locals add Vana<br />
Tallinn Cream into a<br />
shot glass already<br />
half-full of the original<br />
tipple, then light the<br />
surface layer.<br />
Ain Hinsberg<br />
NO WAY!<br />
GO World cinema is<br />
the focus of annual<br />
fi lm event PÖFF now<br />
on its 15th edition<br />
– Black Nights Film<br />
Festival, bringing<br />
plenty of fi lmmakers<br />
to the city(16–30<br />
November, poff .ee).
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Tangier<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Madrid, Paris<br />
(CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
la Kasbah) For an<br />
authentic taste of<br />
old-school Tangier<br />
come and watch<br />
these musicians<br />
sing and play lute to<br />
traditional Andalucian<br />
arrangements in a<br />
casual space from<br />
around 5pm every<br />
night. Visitors are<br />
welcome for the<br />
price of a tea.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Cube (Boulevard<br />
Mohamed V) One of<br />
the newest additions to<br />
the club scene on the<br />
beach strip, this ultramodern<br />
venue off ers a<br />
glass dancefl oor. While<br />
particularly popular<br />
with the underground<br />
gay set, everyone is<br />
welcome. Thumping<br />
house tunes get people<br />
moving after 1am.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about MAD120.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Agadir<br />
Restaurant (21 Rue<br />
du Prince Héritier)<br />
This tiny restaurant<br />
with retro furniture is<br />
a great place to try a<br />
delicious, home-style<br />
couscous or lamb and<br />
prune tagine alongside<br />
a bottle of wine or beer.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ô Saveur (15 Angle<br />
Boubana, tel: 0539<br />
949 660) With inside<br />
or garden seating,<br />
this elegant eatery<br />
off ers imaginative<br />
French cuisine. Try the<br />
mushroom or seasonal<br />
vegetable cappuccino,<br />
a light frothy starter.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Andalucian Music<br />
Circle Place de la<br />
Kasbah (Place de<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Perdicaris House<br />
is a mysterious ruin<br />
that used to be the<br />
US ambassador’s<br />
eponymous residence<br />
at the turn of the 20th<br />
century. It is also the<br />
site where scenes for<br />
horror fi lms like The<br />
Exorcist were shot<br />
(Parc Nautrel Ramilat,<br />
Route de Cap Spartel).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Legend has it that<br />
Tangier got its name<br />
when it was fi rst<br />
discovered by the<br />
biblical Noah, who sent<br />
a raven from the Ark<br />
to test fl ood waters.<br />
The raven returned<br />
clutching a lump of<br />
clay, the word for which<br />
in Berber is tanja.<br />
Aman te Water<br />
Tel Aviv<br />
Israel<br />
DIALLING CODE +972<br />
CURRENCY ILS<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs ILS150.<br />
Trains run from<br />
Terminal 3 to<br />
the city centre every<br />
20– 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: ILS14.5.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Sabich<br />
Frishman (42<br />
Frishman Street, tel:<br />
05 4734 0950) Cheap,<br />
fast, always busy, and<br />
off ering arguably the<br />
best sabich sandwich<br />
in the city. A sabich is<br />
a quintessential and<br />
very satisfying Middle<br />
Eastern street food<br />
of hard boiled egg,<br />
roasted aubergine,<br />
salad, tahini, and a<br />
touch of secret amber<br />
sauce stuff ed into<br />
a fresh pitta.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Orna and Ella (33<br />
Sheinkin Street,<br />
tel: 03 525 2085) A<br />
local institution and<br />
a Sheinkin Street<br />
original that still<br />
attracts the city’s artsy<br />
elite with its pareddown<br />
vibe and simple<br />
homemade desserts.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La La<br />
Land (131 Herbet<br />
Samuel Drive, tel:<br />
03 529 3303) Dimly<br />
lit tables and chairs<br />
on the warm white<br />
sand make La La one<br />
of the dreamiest<br />
spots to savour the<br />
Tel Aviv sunset and<br />
usher in the evening<br />
with a platter of<br />
fresh watermelon<br />
and a cocktail.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Nanuchka (28<br />
Lilenblum Street, tel:<br />
03 516 2254) The bar<br />
at this beloved and<br />
eccentric Georgian<br />
restaurant loses all<br />
sense of restraint as<br />
the night progresses.<br />
If you’ve ever<br />
hankered to jump up<br />
on the bar and dance,<br />
this is your place.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Tel Aviv Fashion<br />
Week, the city’s fi rst<br />
in more than 20<br />
years, will take place<br />
on 21–24 November.<br />
Catwalk shows, parties<br />
and special events will<br />
be open to the public.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Tel Aviv is one of the<br />
most gay-friendly<br />
cities in the world,<br />
with the annual<br />
Pride Parade in June<br />
attracting revelers in<br />
their thousands from<br />
across the globe.<br />
David Dalley<br />
Sitting S comfortably?<br />
advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 6268<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 175<br />
Tenerife<br />
South Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel, Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Route 487 stops<br />
at Los Cristianos<br />
and Playa de Las<br />
Americas. Tickets: €3.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Pig Farm (Plaza de la<br />
Iglesia, Cabo Blanco,<br />
tel: 922 720 170)<br />
Join the locals at this<br />
restaurante típico,<br />
which specialises in<br />
succulent suckling pig<br />
and a good choice of<br />
regional wines. Great<br />
for large groups, so<br />
expect a good, raucous<br />
atmosphere and a real<br />
Canarian experience.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Raffl es<br />
(Apollo Centre, Los<br />
Cristitanos) This<br />
luxurious piano lounge<br />
off ers comfort, style<br />
and elegance at<br />
credit-crunch prices.<br />
Food is available day<br />
and night, as well as<br />
inventive cocktails.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Agua de Coco (San<br />
Telmo, Los Cristianos)<br />
Situated on one of Los<br />
Cristianos’ trendiest<br />
rows, enjoy chilled<br />
caipiriñas and the<br />
warmest of welcomes<br />
at this popular bar with<br />
indoor and outdoor<br />
seating and great views<br />
of the beach below.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Take the No.470<br />
bus to Granadilla to<br />
see the impressive<br />
Mount Guajara, the<br />
second highest peak<br />
in Tenerife behind<br />
Mount Teide. You can<br />
even hike up it if you’re<br />
feeling fi t enough.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Tenerife’s fl ag is<br />
identical to the Scottish<br />
national fl ag because<br />
Saint Andrew is the<br />
island’s patron saint.<br />
Natasha Laming<br />
Imagine over 5 million people looking<br />
at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />
Make ppart<br />
of your plan today<br />
150x28 (5 MILLION) 14.10.11.indd 1 14/10/<strong>2011</strong> 15:01<br />
TAXI<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
El Torre del Mirador<br />
(Playa del Duque,<br />
tel: 922 712 209)<br />
An exceptional<br />
restaurant serving<br />
fi ve-star food in a<br />
magical atmosphere.<br />
Try the Basquestyle<br />
hake.
176 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Thessaloniki<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Dortmund,<br />
London (LGW), Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 78 goes to<br />
the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.80 (€0.90<br />
on board).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Nea<br />
Ilyssia (17 Leondos<br />
Sofou, tel: 2310 514<br />
162) This fi ne cross<br />
between an old-style<br />
restaurant with food<br />
in trays and a grill<br />
house does tasty<br />
and inexpensive<br />
baked meat dishes,<br />
souvlaki and excellent<br />
house wine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Pergola (10<br />
Bagdamali, Platia<br />
Athonos, tel: 2310 224<br />
548) Cosy, welcoming<br />
ouzeri which serves<br />
a huge range of dips,<br />
salads and both meat<br />
and fi sh mezedes,<br />
some of which are<br />
pleasantly inventive.<br />
You can drink Cretan<br />
wine or a selection of<br />
bottled varieties.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Balkan<br />
(3 Proxenou Koromila,<br />
tel: 2310 265 050)<br />
A favourite haunt<br />
that exemplifi es<br />
the cosmopolitan<br />
atmosphere of<br />
Thessaloniki. Expect<br />
traditional décor and<br />
frequent live jazz<br />
sounds, to which you<br />
can sample an array<br />
of cocktails.<br />
LATE & LIVELY On<br />
the Road (61 Leoforos<br />
Nikis, tel: 2310 271<br />
240) This small bar<br />
near the White Tower<br />
has the air of a yacht in<br />
its decoration and thus<br />
draws the sailing crowd<br />
among its regulars.<br />
Listen to an appealing<br />
mix of rock, reggae and<br />
world music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Greece’s most<br />
prestigious cinema<br />
award, the Golden<br />
Alexander, is bestowed<br />
upon the winner at the<br />
end of the country’s<br />
premier annual bigscreen<br />
event, which<br />
takes place across<br />
the city’s cinemas on<br />
4–13 November.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although it is barely<br />
a quarter of the<br />
size of Athens, as<br />
well as being the<br />
capital of Macedonia,<br />
Thessaloniki boasts<br />
the honorary title of<br />
co-capital of Greece.<br />
Nick Edwards<br />
Toulouse<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lisbon, Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP), Nantes,<br />
Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />
Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Toulouse-<br />
Blagnac Navette<br />
goes to the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €5 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
La Bombilla (8 Rue<br />
des Blanchets, tel:<br />
05 6122 7825) If<br />
you’ve ever wanted<br />
to eat tapas for<br />
breakfast while<br />
listening to live Latino<br />
music, this is the bar<br />
for you (on Thursday<br />
mornings). You can<br />
also enjoy tapas<br />
and cool sounds<br />
every evening!<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
L’Auberge de l’Hers<br />
(Route de Gibel,<br />
Mazeres, tel: 05<br />
6169 4522) It’s worth<br />
the trip out of town<br />
for the fabulous<br />
traditional décor, the<br />
open log fi re and the<br />
duck stuff ed with<br />
foie gras. But leave<br />
room for the<br />
homemade desserts.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
L’Interlude (14–15<br />
Place Jeanne d’Arc,<br />
tel: 05 6162 4356)<br />
L’Interlude off ers<br />
free Wi-Fi and a<br />
whole bunch of<br />
board games you can<br />
borrow and play with<br />
your mates, which<br />
is particularly good<br />
when the weather’s<br />
not all that hot.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Cri de la<br />
Mouette (78 Allees<br />
de Barcelone, tel:<br />
05 6230 0528)<br />
There’s live music<br />
every night at 10pm<br />
and a DJ after that.<br />
Programming is<br />
eclectic meaning<br />
anything from jazz<br />
to rock to hip hop.<br />
You can keep<br />
dancing until 5am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE The Festival<br />
International<br />
Sequence Court-<br />
Metrage runs from<br />
11–27 November<br />
and spotlights short<br />
fi lms including<br />
fi ction, animation,<br />
experimental and<br />
documentary fi lm.<br />
Free entrance<br />
(sequence-court.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Thales Alenia Space,<br />
Europe’s largest<br />
space satellite<br />
manufacturer, is<br />
based in Toulouse.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Valencia<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €16.<br />
Metro lines 3 and<br />
5 run straight to<br />
the city centre (Colón)<br />
and train station<br />
(Xativa). Tickets: €1.90<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
La Parpadella (5<br />
Calle Bordadores) The<br />
walls of this Italian<br />
eatery are covered<br />
with photographs of<br />
the great and good<br />
who have dined here<br />
over the years. It’s<br />
best to book ahead.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
El Surcursal (118<br />
Guillem de Castro, tel:<br />
964 746 665) A highly<br />
rated restaurant based<br />
in IVAM (Valencia’s<br />
modern art gallery)<br />
and a great location to<br />
try some of the most<br />
innovative food in the<br />
city. Five- and sevencourse<br />
tasting menus<br />
are available.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Sherlock<br />
Holmes (3 Plaza<br />
Manises, tel: 963<br />
918 342) Serving<br />
a wide range of<br />
specialist beers, the<br />
Sherlock Holmes is<br />
one of the best pubs<br />
in Valencia. Weekly<br />
live music, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
La Claca (3 Calle de<br />
San Vicente Mártir)<br />
Located very centrally<br />
this small-looking<br />
venue on the outside<br />
opens up into a large<br />
bar and dancing area<br />
where the DJ will<br />
plays anything from<br />
fl amenco to disco.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Plaza de Toros<br />
itself is well worth a<br />
visit. This majestic<br />
building next to the<br />
main train station has<br />
been there since 1851.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Spanish hero El Cid<br />
lived the latter part<br />
of his life in Valencia<br />
before eventually<br />
dying here.<br />
Andy McNicoll<br />
ACTA<br />
ATARAZANAS<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This simple and<br />
elegant hotel, is<br />
located near to<br />
the city’s Royal<br />
Shipyards.Breakfast<br />
included. From<br />
€65, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Venice<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Ibiza, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Naples, Paris (CDG,<br />
ORY), Rome<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €100.<br />
The ATVO airport<br />
bus takes 20<br />
minutes to Piazzale<br />
Roma. Tickets: €5.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Osteria I Rusteghi<br />
(5513 Corte del<br />
Tentor, San Marco,<br />
tel: 041 523 2205)<br />
This atmospheric,<br />
traditional hostelry<br />
is located in a quiet<br />
piazza not far from<br />
the Rialto bridge.<br />
Tuck into a selection<br />
of delicious minipanini<br />
and a glass<br />
or two of fi ne wine.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Enoiteca Mascareta<br />
(5183 Calle Lunga<br />
Santa Maria Formosa,<br />
Castello, tel: 041 523<br />
0744) Colourful local<br />
character Mauro is<br />
passionate about<br />
wines and his clients<br />
sometimes come as<br />
much for him as for<br />
the food and wine!<br />
Standards are high,<br />
however, so you won’t<br />
be disappointed. An<br />
interesting menu<br />
and an even more<br />
interesting wine list.<br />
UP TO €50 La<br />
Bitta (2753A Calle<br />
Lunga San Barnaba,<br />
Dorsoduro, tel:<br />
041 523 0531) If<br />
you’re looking for an<br />
excellent meal that<br />
doesn’t have a whiff of<br />
seafood about it, look<br />
no further than this<br />
small restaurant set<br />
in a lively part of town.<br />
La Bitta specialises<br />
in exquisite dishes<br />
with meat, pasta<br />
and vegetables –<br />
and there’s not a<br />
shellfi sh in sight!<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Osteria alle Testiere<br />
(5801 Calle del Mondo<br />
Novo, Castello, tel: 041<br />
522 7220) Fresh local<br />
produce, exquisite<br />
seafood and carefully<br />
selected wines make<br />
each meal a winner<br />
at this friendly and<br />
welcoming place<br />
located on a bustling<br />
alley. Understandably<br />
there’s a regular local<br />
clientèle so its best<br />
to book as tables<br />
are limited.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Cantinone Già<br />
Schiavi (992<br />
Fondamenta Nani,<br />
Dorsoduro, tel: 041<br />
523 0034) With<br />
intriguing views of<br />
the San Trovaso<br />
gondola boatyard<br />
just opposite, this<br />
traditional wine bar<br />
is full of atmosphere.<br />
Join the locals for a<br />
glass or two and relax.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Blues Café (3778<br />
Calle San Pantalon,<br />
Dorsoduro, tel: 348<br />
240 6444) Regular<br />
concerts – mainly jazz<br />
– are held at this lively<br />
bar that stays open<br />
till 2am.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bacaro Jazz (5546<br />
Salizada del Fontego<br />
dei Tedeschi, San<br />
Marco, tel: 041 528<br />
5249) Chill out to the<br />
sound of jazz and<br />
people having fun<br />
in all languages. If<br />
hunger bites you<br />
can eat here until the<br />
early hours as well.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you like<br />
the look of those<br />
gondolier hats, why<br />
not get yourself one<br />
from the milliner who<br />
BEST WESTERN<br />
SANT’ELENA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
A hotel next to the<br />
Biennale Gardens.<br />
There’s a garden and<br />
a charming Venetian<br />
feel. Breakfast<br />
included, From<br />
€169, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
supplies the pros,<br />
Giuliana Longo<br />
(4813 Calle del<br />
Lovo, San Marco,<br />
giulianalongo.com).<br />
SEE To celebrate the<br />
festival of All Saints<br />
on 1 November – a<br />
national holiday in<br />
Italy – the I Virtuosi<br />
Italiani ensemble<br />
brings the Chiesa<br />
della Pietá, the<br />
church where Vivaldi<br />
worked, to life with<br />
a concert of music<br />
by the 18th-century<br />
composer (8.30pm,<br />
3701 Castello, tel:<br />
041 522 2171).<br />
GO Get away from<br />
the crowded centre<br />
with a stroll around<br />
the atmospheric<br />
area surrounding the<br />
Arsenale, Venice’s<br />
impressive 12thcentury<br />
boatyard. The<br />
Museo Storico Navale<br />
museum nearby has<br />
some interesting naval<br />
artefacts (2148 Riva<br />
San Biasio, Castello).<br />
ESCAPE Take a trip<br />
across to the pretty<br />
town of Chioggia<br />
– you can get here<br />
by combined public<br />
transport from Venice<br />
Lido. Full of character,<br />
it’s a bustling fi shing<br />
port with a host<br />
of colourful boats<br />
lining the canals.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
If you want to test<br />
the eff ects of all that<br />
pizza and gelato on<br />
your waistline, seek<br />
out Calletta Varisco in<br />
Cannaregio – Venice’s<br />
narrowest alley at<br />
just 53cm across.<br />
Sarah Lane<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 177<br />
Verona<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €22.<br />
The Aerobus<br />
runs to the<br />
city centre every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €5.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Antica<br />
Trattoria La Pigna<br />
(4B Via Pigna, tel: 045<br />
800 4080) A cosy,<br />
traditional trattoria<br />
in the historic centre<br />
between Piazza Erbe<br />
and the cathedral, this<br />
is an ideal choice for a<br />
good dinner of hearty<br />
local dishes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Trattoria I Masenini<br />
(34 Via Roma, tel:<br />
045 806 5169) With<br />
appealing historic<br />
décor and views<br />
of picturesque<br />
Castelnuovo, this place<br />
is full of atmosphere.<br />
Specialities include<br />
delicious spit-roast<br />
meats and tasty<br />
pasta and there’s an<br />
excellent selection<br />
of local wines to<br />
choose from.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Caff è<br />
Filippini (26 Piazza<br />
Erbe, tel: 045 800<br />
4549) Right at the<br />
centre of Verona’s<br />
famous Piazza Erbe,<br />
this smart bar has<br />
been a favourite for<br />
pre- and post-dinner<br />
drinks since 1901.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Berfi ’s (1 Via<br />
Lussemburgo, tel:<br />
045 508 024) Not<br />
far from central<br />
Verona, this supercool<br />
club is only open<br />
at weekends. While<br />
the main room pulls<br />
in the crowds with<br />
mainstream sounds,<br />
the VIP room off ers<br />
more experimental<br />
vibes. Live concerts<br />
are sometimes<br />
held, too.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Horse lovers<br />
from all around the<br />
world converge on the<br />
city each November<br />
to attend the city’s<br />
historic International<br />
Horse Festival, fi rst<br />
held in 1898<br />
(3–6 November,<br />
fi eracavalli.it).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Don’t miss the<br />
massive good-luck<br />
cypress at Giardino<br />
Giusti. The 4m-wide<br />
tree is known as the<br />
Cypress of Goethe<br />
as the German writer<br />
took some twigs<br />
for good fortune.<br />
Nowadays newlyweds<br />
come to have their<br />
photo taken under the<br />
branches for luck.<br />
Sarah Lane
178 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Vienna<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Catch the CAT<br />
to the centre.<br />
Trains leave every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €9.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Gigerl<br />
(3 Rauhensteingasse,<br />
tel: 01 513 4431) This<br />
is a solid bet for a<br />
square meal, Viennese<br />
style. A homely, rustic<br />
vibe sets the tone,<br />
complemented by<br />
whopping schnitzels.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Silvio Nickol at<br />
Palais Coburg (4<br />
Coburgbastei, tel: 01<br />
5181 8800) Renowned<br />
chef Silvio Nickol has<br />
taken over the reins<br />
at the Palais Coburg<br />
boutique hotel, adding<br />
a new spring in the<br />
step of a distinctive<br />
Vienna venue.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Palmenhaus Bar<br />
(1 Burggarten) With<br />
November upon us,<br />
you won’t fi nd a more<br />
light and airy spot<br />
than the Palmenhaus,<br />
once a private<br />
Habsburg hothouse<br />
and now a chic cafécome-brasserie.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Loos American<br />
Bar (10 Karntner<br />
Durchgang, tel: 01<br />
512 3283) For a<br />
late-night session in a<br />
speakeasy, Humphrey<br />
Bogart-style, try the<br />
world-renowned<br />
American Bar, rustled<br />
up by modernist<br />
guru Adolf Loos in<br />
1908. Expect expertly<br />
mixed cocktails,<br />
of which “Bogey”<br />
would approve.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SEE Head over<br />
to the imperial<br />
Kunsthistorisches<br />
Museum, one of the<br />
grandest national<br />
galleries in Europe.<br />
The current exhibition<br />
couldn’t be more<br />
seasonal: Winter<br />
Tales – Depictions of<br />
Winter in European<br />
Art, from Bruegel to<br />
Beuys (1010 Maria-<br />
Theresien-Platz).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Archaeologists are<br />
currently at work<br />
excavating the fi rst<br />
Roman Gladiators’<br />
school ever to be<br />
discovered outside<br />
Italy. The site, just a few<br />
miles east of Vienna<br />
was found by a team of<br />
experts this summer.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
vienna-life.com<br />
Zagreb<br />
Croatia<br />
DIALLING CODE +385<br />
CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Dortmund,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about HRK250.<br />
The airport bus<br />
is run by Pleso<br />
Prijevoz to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: HRK30.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Gostionica Purger<br />
(23 Petrinjska, tel:<br />
01 481 0713) This is<br />
the sort of cheap and<br />
cheerful bolthole that<br />
can make a budget<br />
traveller’s day. The<br />
food is not bad at all, a<br />
sort of mix of Croatian<br />
comfort food.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Mano<br />
(2 Medvedgradska, tel:<br />
01 466 9432) To call<br />
Mano a steakhouse<br />
is doing it a massive<br />
disservice. This smooth<br />
operator uses the<br />
fi nest cuts, beautifully<br />
marinated and cooked<br />
over charcoal.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Eli’s<br />
Caff e (63 Ilica, tel:<br />
091 527 9990) The<br />
fact they roast their<br />
own coff ee tells you<br />
all you need to know<br />
about this popular<br />
hangout. Arguably the<br />
best place in town for<br />
a caff eine fi x.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Jazz Bar Bacchus (16<br />
Trg Kralja Tomislava,<br />
tel: 01 492 2218)<br />
This fun venue in<br />
the lower town does<br />
shared platters of<br />
Dalmatian food and<br />
decent cocktails,<br />
alongside smooth jazz<br />
sounds on the stereo.<br />
Weekends see regular<br />
live music events.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Furore erupted in<br />
1993 when the city’s<br />
beloved Dinamo<br />
Zagreb changed<br />
their name to Croatia<br />
Zagreb. To much<br />
relief the city’s<br />
most successful<br />
football team are now<br />
once again called<br />
Dinamo Zagreb.<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
CENTRAL<br />
SQUARE<br />
GO Make your way<br />
to Trg Ban Jelacica,<br />
a lavish square that<br />
is very much the<br />
beating heart of<br />
Zagreb. Take a seat in<br />
one of the numerous<br />
cafés and watch the<br />
trams whizz by.<br />
KITESWISS The School, The Shop, The Safari-Adventure<br />
<br />
<br />
Zürich<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW,<br />
LTN), Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
You will probably have the greatest time of your life!!<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about CHF60.<br />
Trains go to the<br />
city centre every<br />
10 minutes. Tickets:<br />
CHF6.40 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 eCHo<br />
(42 Neumühlequai,<br />
tel: 044 360 7000)<br />
Located in the<br />
Marriott hotel,<br />
this place serves<br />
authentic Swiss<br />
dishes beyond<br />
raclette and fondue,<br />
such as bündner<br />
gerstensuppe<br />
(barley soup from the<br />
Grison Alps)<br />
and chalbsbäggli<br />
(braised veal cheeks).<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Lindenhofkeller (4<br />
Pfalzgasse, tel: 044<br />
211 7071) Slightly<br />
hidden on the way up<br />
to Lindenhofplatz in<br />
the Old Town is the<br />
Lindenhofkeller. Their<br />
speciality is roast<br />
Swiss “prime” rack<br />
of veal cooked at<br />
a low temperature.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
James Joyce (8<br />
Pelikanstrasse, tel:<br />
044 221 1828) The<br />
James Joyce is a<br />
classy pub with an<br />
Art Nouveau bar built<br />
in the 19th century.<br />
The beer list features<br />
10 beers including<br />
Murphy’s Irish Stout.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Icon (Augustinerhof,<br />
tel: 044 448 1133)<br />
The small Icon club<br />
aims to attract<br />
an exclusive clientèle.<br />
To fi t in, you should<br />
dress up and be at<br />
least 24 years of<br />
age. The music is<br />
usually somewhere<br />
between house<br />
and R’n’B.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO If the city is<br />
covered with a thick<br />
layer of fog, take the<br />
SZU train and escape<br />
to the Uetliberg,<br />
Zürich’s own little<br />
mountain. The peak<br />
is often in the sun<br />
even when the city<br />
isn’t (uetliberg.ch).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Polyterrasse<br />
cable railway has<br />
been carrying<br />
students up to the<br />
Federal Institute<br />
of Technology<br />
since 1889, and the<br />
terrace also off ers<br />
some great views<br />
of the city.<br />
Lukas Füglister<br />
marc@ kiteswiss.ch • www.kiteswiss.ch
ZürichCARD.<br />
So much pleasure for<br />
so little money.<br />
Free travel on trains, trams, buses, trains, boats<br />
and cableways<br />
Free admission to all museums in the city of Zürich<br />
Discounts at selected Zürich shops and restaurants<br />
Various other reductions<br />
24 hours for CHF 20.–<br />
72 hours for CHF 40.–<br />
www.zuerichcard.ch<br />
TIMELESS, LAID-BACK AND INTERNATIONAL – THE DESIGN HOTEL IN THE CITY CENTRE<br />
FROM COMPACT TO SUPER-SPACIOUS – 285 ROOMS AND SUITES, ELEGANT AND MODERN<br />
FROM CONFERENCE MEETINGS TO BANQUETS – ROOMS AVAILABLE FROM 40 TO 640 M 2<br />
WITH CUTTING-EDGE FACILITIES LUNCH OR DINNER BE DAZZLED BY THE CULINARY CREATIONS<br />
FROM OUR STUNNING SHOW KITCHEN AN OASIS OF CALM – THE »DUKE« RESTAURANT,<br />
SUMMER GARDEN, COCKTAIL BAR AND LOUNGE STYLISH AND RIGHT IN THE HEART OF BERLIN<br />
ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN | NÜRNBERGER STR. 50 - 55 | 10789 BERLIN | PHONE +49 (30) 68 31-50 | WWW.ELLINGTON-HOTEL.COM
The latest trends for the new season<br />
Autumn<br />
arrivals<br />
Morgan & Oates<br />
Houndstooth Scarf<br />
Houndstooth check is popping up all<br />
over the Autumn/Winter <strong>2011</strong> catwalks,<br />
ranging from head-to-toe outfits<br />
to accessories. If you’re looking for<br />
something chic yet versatile, why<br />
not check out the Morgan & Oates<br />
Houndstooth scarf onboard – made<br />
from cashmere and merino wool, it’s set<br />
to be bang on-trend this season.<br />
Buy onboard £39.00/€50.50<br />
See page 18 in Bistro and Boutique<br />
for more details.<br />
Jimmy Choo<br />
Eau de Parfum 60ml<br />
Always fancied a pair of Jimmy Choo<br />
shoes, but haven’t quite got the budget<br />
to stretch that far? Then why not treat<br />
yourself to the next best thing? The<br />
debut fragrance from Jimmy Choo<br />
is for women with a sense of fashion<br />
and a taste for luxury. Glamorous in<br />
attitude, Jimmy Choo Eau de Parfum is<br />
a modern fruity scent with warm, rich,<br />
woody depths.<br />
Buy onboard £39.50/€51.00<br />
See page 5 in Bistro and Boutique<br />
for more details.<br />
Products subject to availability.<br />
YSL Saharienne<br />
Eau de Toilette 50ml<br />
Named after Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic<br />
safari jacket, this citrus, floral fragrance<br />
is like a refreshing oasis in the heart of<br />
the Sahara desert. Yves Saint Laurent<br />
was renowned for designing clothes that<br />
made women look powerful, yet feminine.<br />
The Saharienne jacket was no exception<br />
to that rule. Based on the “African” theme,<br />
he created a “Safari” suit for his spring/<br />
summer 1968 collection, transforming the<br />
functional hunting outfit into town-wear<br />
for women.<br />
Buy onboard £35.00/€45.00<br />
See page 11 in Bistro and Boutique<br />
for more details.
PHOTO © KATHRYN COOK/AGENCE VU<br />
11<br />
PAGES OF<br />
NEWS AND<br />
UPDATES<br />
FROM<br />
BEHIND THE SCENES<br />
Cabin Crew Christian Fondacaro explains why he loves working in the sky<br />
EVER SINCE I WAS A BOY, I’ve wanted<br />
to be a pilot. I’m passionate about<br />
fl ying and love everything to do with the<br />
aviation world. My greatest achievement<br />
was getting my commercial pilot’s<br />
license in 1998. After that, I worked as a<br />
pilot for Italian airlines.<br />
Sadly, due to the recession, my<br />
airline went bankrupt and many airlines<br />
were reducing their employees, so it<br />
wasn’t possible to fi nd another job as<br />
a pilot. But, last February, I was lucky<br />
enough to fi nd a cabin-crew position at<br />
easyJet and I’ve been here ever since.<br />
As I’ve been in the airline industry<br />
for 13 years, I’m used to our diff erent<br />
lifestyle. I generally arrive at Rome’s<br />
Fiumicino airport early in the morning<br />
or afternoon. I meet the rest of the crew<br />
one hour before departure time and get<br />
to know them so that I can start being<br />
part of the team. Then we go to the<br />
aircraft to greet passengers.<br />
The in-fl ight time is great fun,<br />
especially when the crew interacts<br />
well, as this makes passengers feel<br />
comfortable. At the end of the working<br />
day we discuss what we have done.<br />
My favourite thing about the job<br />
is working with people from diff erent<br />
cultures. It’s a challenging job, but<br />
thanks to our training, we deal with<br />
situations in the best way we can to<br />
make passengers happy.<br />
If I could choose one destination<br />
to visit it would be Lisbon. It’s a place<br />
where history, culture and amusements<br />
come together.<br />
When I’m not working, I try to spend<br />
time with my family, hanging out at the<br />
beach with them and my dog, or maybe<br />
playing football. I’m a big Roma fan.<br />
NEWS | OUR PEOPLE<br />
Cabin-crew<br />
member Christian<br />
Fondacaro is glad<br />
to be back in the air<br />
The advent of low-cost airlines<br />
means that everybody – students,<br />
families, those with little previous<br />
experience of travel – can move around<br />
Europe more easily and inexpensively.<br />
However, due to the economic crisis<br />
and the cost of fuel, the airline industry<br />
has changed a lot. Now airlines must<br />
fi nd a balance between saving money<br />
and maintaining a good service for the<br />
passengers – something I think easyJet<br />
does very well.<br />
After losing my previous job, working<br />
for easyJet has meant being part of a<br />
stable airline, which has given me the<br />
opportunity to grow professionally. It<br />
has also meant coming back into this<br />
fantastic industry.<br />
I love my job and would like to stay in<br />
it for a long time. Hopefully, one day I’ll<br />
get to be a pilot again.<br />
TRAVELLER | 181
CUSTOMER | CARE<br />
Great<br />
customer<br />
service<br />
We want you to have a superb<br />
experience onboard<br />
It’s important for us to know which of our<br />
pilots and cabin crew really shine – so we<br />
have created The easyJet Spirit Awards,<br />
to reward our people for the great service<br />
you receive.<br />
Please visit spirit.easyJet.com to let us<br />
know which of our crew have the “orange<br />
spirit”. We value your help! You’ll fi nd<br />
further details of how to get in touch with<br />
us in the yellow box below.<br />
We Need Your Help!<br />
Think any of our people have the<br />
orange spirit? Then let us know!<br />
★ Find out the name of the cabin crew<br />
member or pilot.<br />
★ Log on to spirit.easyJet.com and vote<br />
for them, giving your fl ight details, name,<br />
and email address. It’s as simple as that!<br />
Say “THANK YOU” and share the<br />
orange spirit!<br />
Wir brauchen Ihre Hilfe!<br />
Wer von uns hat den besten<br />
“Orange Spirit”?<br />
★ Der “Spirit Award” ist eine interne<br />
Auszeichnung, um denjenigen Kollegen<br />
How to Contact Us easyJet.custhelp.com<br />
Our customer<br />
experience team<br />
is available to help<br />
you. They are open<br />
8am–8pm Monday<br />
to Friday and<br />
9am–5pm Saturday<br />
182 | TRAVELLER<br />
and Sunday<br />
(local times).*<br />
0871 244 2366<br />
0826 103 320<br />
899 234 589<br />
902 599 900<br />
01805 029 292<br />
Customer Star<br />
Of The Month<br />
GARY FULFORD, FLIGHT<br />
ATTENDANT FROM LUTON, tells us:<br />
“Customer service is very important<br />
to me. It’s about making everyone’s<br />
fl ight a pleasurable experience, going<br />
that extra mile and treating<br />
customers with care and respect.<br />
The easyJet Spirit Awards are a great<br />
way of praising cabin crew and pilots<br />
for excellent customer service.”<br />
If you think any of our crew on<br />
board today have shown their orange<br />
spirit, please let us know about it via<br />
spirit.easyJet.com<br />
oder Kollegin zu nominieren, der den<br />
besten Kundenservice leistet.<br />
★ Bitte helfen Sie uns, dieses Mitglied der<br />
Kabinenbesatzung bzw. diesen Piloten<br />
ausfi ndig zu machen, der diese Kriterien<br />
am besten erfüllt. Bitte besuchen Sie<br />
folgende Website: spirit.easyJet.com<br />
Vielen Dank, dass Sie Ihren “Orange<br />
Spirit” mit uns teilen.<br />
Nous avons besoin de vous!<br />
Qui a l'Orange Spirit?<br />
★ Les Spirit Awards est notre façon<br />
de reconnaître l'équipage de cabine<br />
et les pilotes qui offrent le meilleur<br />
service client.<br />
★ S'il vous plaît, n’hésitez pas à nous<br />
aider en visitant « spirit.easyJet.com » et<br />
nous communiquer le nom des personnes<br />
méritant une reconnaissance particulière.<br />
Merci de partager l'Orange Spirit!<br />
Abbiamo Bisogno del tuo aiuto!<br />
Chi ha lo Spirito Arancione?<br />
0900 000 258<br />
0900 265 8020<br />
0703 203 025<br />
0900 000206<br />
Rest of the world<br />
+44 871 244 2366<br />
* Please refer to<br />
easyJet.com for call<br />
charges. Calls may be<br />
recorded to improve<br />
your experience<br />
when travelling with<br />
or contacting us.<br />
★ La Spirit Awards è il nostro modo di<br />
riconoscere il personale di cabina ed i<br />
piloti che offrono il miglior servizio ai<br />
nostril clienti.<br />
★ Vi preghiamo di aiutarci visitando<br />
il sito spirit.easyJet.com e dirci chi<br />
dei nostri equipaggi si merita un<br />
riconoscimento speciale.<br />
Grazie per aver condiviso lo Spirito<br />
Arancione!<br />
Necesitamos tu ayuda!<br />
Quien tiene el espiritu Naranja?<br />
★ Los premios “Spirit Awards”<br />
son nuestra forma de reconocer a aquellos<br />
de nuestros tripulantes de cabina y<br />
pilotos que ofrecen la mejor atencion<br />
al cliente.<br />
★ Ayudenos por favor visitando<br />
spirit.easyJet.com y diciendonos que<br />
individuos cree usted que merecen un<br />
reconocimiento especial.<br />
Gracias por compartir con nosotros el<br />
espiritu naranja!<br />
In case of emergency while you are abroad, you can use one common number all over the EU free of charge: 112.<br />
This enables you to reach all emergency services (fi re, police, medical) in the 27 countries of the EU.<br />
Follow us on Twitter<br />
@easyJetCare<br />
We’re on Twitter – follow<br />
us to receive information<br />
on how to make your<br />
travel experience better.
Your Conduct Onboard<br />
Please consider your fellow<br />
passengers while onboard this<br />
fl ight and in particular the following<br />
information, which is in place in the<br />
interests of your safety and comfort.<br />
★ Smoking<br />
Smoking on any easyJet<br />
fl ight is strictly forbidden.<br />
★ Alcohol<br />
As explained in our retail brochure,<br />
alcoholic drinks are available onboard.<br />
These are served at the crew’s<br />
discretion to passengers of legal<br />
drinking age. While onboard, you can<br />
consume alcoholic drinks purchased<br />
at the easyJet Bistro only. Duty-free<br />
alcohol can be purchased from the<br />
easyJet Boutique but cannot be<br />
consumed onboard.<br />
★ Safety Equipment<br />
In accordance with UK and<br />
international law, the captain is in<br />
command of the aircraft and every<br />
Quick Facts<br />
★ We have 582<br />
routes, fl y to 129<br />
airports and operate<br />
in 29 countries!<br />
★ easyJet employs<br />
4,526 cabin crew<br />
across the network,<br />
with a further 416<br />
Swiss cabin crew.*<br />
★ We operate 201<br />
aircraft, including 199<br />
Seating capacity<br />
Number of crew<br />
Take-off speed<br />
Cruising speed<br />
Range<br />
person onboard shall obey his or her<br />
lawful commands. In fact, captains<br />
have the authority to take any actions<br />
they deem necessary to manage<br />
passengers who are disruptive or<br />
cause problems during fl ights.<br />
Please be reminded not to tamper<br />
with or remove any safety equipment<br />
onboard this aircraft, including the<br />
lifejackets. Any unauthorised actions<br />
may jeopardise the safety of other<br />
passengers and lead to prosecution.<br />
As explained in the safety<br />
announcement, lifejackets are<br />
provided only in the event of<br />
passengers landing on water.<br />
★ Sharps Boxes<br />
Hypodermic needles<br />
are permitted<br />
onboard for medical<br />
use and should always<br />
be disposed of in a sharps box.<br />
Hypodermic<br />
syringes<br />
If you need to dispose of a needle,<br />
please contact a member of the<br />
cabin crew.<br />
Airbus and two<br />
Boeing 737s. Our fl eet<br />
is one of the youngest<br />
in the world, with an<br />
average aircraft age<br />
of 3.8 years!<br />
★ easyJet has been<br />
unveiled as Business<br />
Traveller Magazine’s<br />
Best Low-Cost<br />
Airline for the 10th<br />
consecutive year.<br />
Boeing 737-700<br />
149<br />
2 pilots and 3 cabin crew<br />
260 km/h<br />
853 km/h<br />
6,115km<br />
★ easyJet was named<br />
the Best Low-Cost<br />
Airline in Europe for<br />
customer Product and<br />
Service Quality at the<br />
★ Use of Electronic Devices<br />
Electronic devices, including mobile<br />
phones, cannot be used while<br />
walking to/from the aircraft and<br />
must be switched off during take-off<br />
and landing.<br />
However, electronic devices that you<br />
can use during the fl ight after<br />
take-off and before landing include:<br />
★ Bluetooth devices, excluding<br />
telephones<br />
★ Devices that have a “fl ight mode”<br />
or “fl ight-safe” setting, provided the<br />
fl ight-safe mode setting is enabled<br />
before the aircraft doors are closed<br />
★ Laptops, including those with<br />
built-in WLAN/Wi-Fi, provided the<br />
WLAN/Wi-Fi is turned off<br />
★ Electronic games, MP3, DVD<br />
and CD players<br />
If in doubt, please keep devices<br />
switched off for the duration of the<br />
fl ight as they may interfere with<br />
our systems<br />
Airbus A319<br />
156<br />
<strong>2011</strong> World<br />
Airline Awards.<br />
*correct as of 1 July <strong>2011</strong><br />
★ ‘easyJet has been<br />
announced as<br />
2 pilots and 4 cabin crew<br />
240 km/h<br />
805 km/h<br />
4,830km<br />
Europe’s Leading<br />
Low-Cost Airline at<br />
the <strong>2011</strong> World Travel<br />
Awards, for the third<br />
consecutive year.<br />
Airbus A320<br />
180<br />
2 pilots and 4 cabin crew<br />
240 km/h<br />
837 km/h<br />
4,910km<br />
PASSENGER | INFO<br />
TRAVELLER | 183
NOTICIAS | ESPAÑA<br />
Una escapada<br />
otoñal<br />
Los días calurosos de verano han<br />
quedado atrás, pero el frío no<br />
debe asustarte. Viajar en Otoño<br />
tiene muchas ventajas, así que<br />
prepara la maleta y toma nota de<br />
nuestras propuestas.<br />
Viaja a una de las ciudades<br />
más liberales de Europa,<br />
Ámsterdam, conocida también<br />
por sus numerosos canales y<br />
museos. Si estás preparando un<br />
viaje inolvidable con tus amigos,<br />
la capital de Holanda es una<br />
muy buena opción. Una vez allí,<br />
lo mejor es que os alquiléis una<br />
bicicleta para recorrer su casco<br />
antiguo, hacer una visita a la casa<br />
de Ana Frank o pasearos por el<br />
conocido Barrio Rojo. Disfruta<br />
de la ciudad de los canales con<br />
easyJet desde tan sólo 26,99€<br />
(tasas incluidas).<br />
Revive los momentos más<br />
importantes de la historia<br />
en Berlín. Cruza la puerta de<br />
Brandemburgo, disfruta del<br />
contacto directo con la naturaleza<br />
en uno de sus magnífi cos parques<br />
o sé testigo del fi nal de la Segunda<br />
Guerra Mundial al lado del famoso<br />
Muro de Berlín con easyJet desde<br />
tan sólo 29,99 € (tasas incluidas).<br />
Escápate a la Ville Rose<br />
francesa, Toulouse. Piérdete por<br />
sus estrechas calles medievales<br />
o da largos paseos por el Canal<br />
du Midi. Además, en la Ciudad del<br />
Espacio podrás sentirte por unos<br />
momentos como un verdadero<br />
astronauta o pilotar ¡un Airbus!.<br />
Deja tus obligaciones por unos<br />
días y viaja Toulouse desde tan<br />
sólo 19,99€ (tasas incluidas).<br />
184 | TRAVELLER<br />
Una ciudad que estimula<br />
todos los sentidos<br />
La llaman la Perla del Sur y no por<br />
casualidad. Marraquech esconde<br />
muchas joyas entre sus murallas.<br />
Una de las que atrae más miradas es,<br />
sin duda, la mezquita de Koutoubia,<br />
con un minarete de nada más y<br />
nada menos que ¡77 metros de<br />
altura! Este imponente monumento<br />
se encuentra anclado en medio<br />
de la llamada ciudad antigua, la<br />
Medina, rodeada por quilómetros<br />
y quilómetros de murallas de color<br />
rojizo, dónde un paseo a carroza al<br />
atardecer se ha convertido en una<br />
experiencia única.<br />
Continua el recorrido por su<br />
milenario zoco: un laberinto hecho a<br />
base de calles estrechas y repletas<br />
de vendedores ambulantes,<br />
donde decenas de especias se<br />
entremezclan con todo tipo de<br />
tejidos, reliquias de cuero o incluso<br />
construcciones de madera y hierro.<br />
Entre el apretado mercadillo<br />
y la alta Mezquita, se erige la<br />
espaciosa plaza Djemma-el-Fna,<br />
el centro neurálgico de la vida<br />
marroquí. Un espacio grande donde<br />
coinciden durante el día decenas<br />
de ilusionistas, encantadores de<br />
serpientes o incluso narradores de<br />
Si eres un apasionado de las tradiciones<br />
más antiguas, la arquitectura o la música,<br />
en Basilea te lo pasarás en grande. Esta<br />
ciudad, situada al norte de Suiza, puede<br />
presumir de concentrar gran parte de la<br />
actividad cultural del continente, con más<br />
de 40 museos dedicados a la música, al<br />
arte, a la historia, a la naturaleza e incluso<br />
al cómic.<br />
Además, esta romántica y cultural<br />
ciudad acoge magnífi cos monumentos<br />
arquitectónicos que merecen, sin duda,<br />
una visita con algo de tiempo. Entre<br />
ellos, destaca su monumental Catedral,<br />
conocida como Münster, que sobrevivió<br />
a un terremoto en 1356. Pero, sin duda,<br />
el lugar más pintoresco de la ciudad y el<br />
cuentos con la fi nalidad de distraer<br />
a los turistas. A media tarde, éstos<br />
desaparecen para dejar paso a<br />
cocineros que se pelean por dar<br />
de comer cuscús a los afamados<br />
visitantes.<br />
En las afueras de Marraquech,<br />
los jardines de Menara son el lugar<br />
perfecto para tomarse un respiro y<br />
dejar atrás el bullicio de la ciudad.<br />
Coger algo para picar y tumbarse<br />
debajo de uno de sus centenarios<br />
olivos es la mejor opción para acabar<br />
de pasar el día. Vive la magia de<br />
Marraquech desde tan sólo 9,99€<br />
(tasas incluidas) con easyJet.<br />
Basilea, la capital cultural de Europa<br />
que atrae más miradas es el pintoresco<br />
edifi co del Ayuntamiento Rathaus,<br />
construido en piedra arenisca de color<br />
rojo oscuro, situado junto a la plaza del<br />
mercado (Marktplatz).<br />
Basilea tiene también uno de los<br />
mejores teatros de ópera de Europa, el<br />
Theater Basel, dónde aquellos amantes<br />
de la buena música podrán disfrutar en<br />
vivo y en directo de las mejores obras<br />
contemporáneas. Pero para vivir como<br />
un auténtico suizo, lo mejor es adentrarse<br />
en uno de sus magnífi cos parques o<br />
jardines botánicos y disfrutar de un<br />
auténtico picnic a orillas del Rin. Vuela<br />
a Basilea con easyJet desde 23,99€<br />
(tasas incluidas).
Il Natale arriva<br />
prima<br />
A PRAGA (da Malpensa a partire da<br />
22,99€ tasse incluse)<br />
La capitale della Repubblica Ceca<br />
non ha un mercatino di Natale. Ne ha<br />
ben quattro. Verso fi ne mese vedrai le<br />
tipiche bancarelle riempire le piazze<br />
e le pance dei visitatori di specialità<br />
locali e svarák, il vino caldo. E siamo<br />
solo all’antipasto. Al Grand Hotel Praha,<br />
da giovedì a domenica, si mangia<br />
accompagnati dalla musica jazz<br />
suonata dal vivo. Buon ascolto<br />
e buon appetito.<br />
A BRUXELLES (da Malpensa da<br />
23,99€ tasse incluse)<br />
In Belgio il Natale porta i “Plaisirs<br />
d’Hiver”. Quali sono questi piaceri? Lo<br />
scoprirai andando al Food Plaza davanti<br />
alla Borsa o alla Medina marocchina di<br />
Place Sainte-Catherine. Le attrazioni<br />
principali restano comunque la pista<br />
di pattinaggio e la ruota panoramica.<br />
Per non parlare dello spettacolo off erto<br />
dalla Nuits d’Electrabel, l’installazione<br />
della Grand-Place. Cerca di essere a<br />
Bruxelles per il 26 novembre, il giorno<br />
della sfi lata d’inaugurazione.<br />
Uniamo<br />
l’Europa<br />
Immagina di svegliarti con le campane<br />
del Big Bang e fare jogging lungo il<br />
Tamigi. Fai presto però: hai un pranzo<br />
di lavoro da “A la petite chaise”, vicino<br />
alla Tour Eiff el. Ti hanno consigliato di<br />
provare il suo gâteau au chocolat e hai<br />
intenzione di seguire il suggerimento.<br />
Anche perché hai bisogno di energie in<br />
vista della serata da movida spagnola.<br />
Una giornata così non sarebbe un<br />
sogno? Rendilo reale. easyJet ti off re<br />
tutta la fl essibilità di cui hai bisogno.<br />
Ogni giorno per Londra partono<br />
8 voli da Malpensa (da 23,99€) e<br />
4 da Fiumicino (da 31,99€). E per<br />
Parigi abbiamo 7 aerei al giorno da<br />
Malpensa (a partire da 20,99€) e 4<br />
da Roma (da 35,99€). Per concludere,<br />
abbiamo 3 voli al giorno per la tratta<br />
Milano-Barcellona (da 21,99€).<br />
Partiamo?<br />
Copenhagen in 5 passi<br />
IL PIÙ GRANDE MIX DI GENERI<br />
MUSICALI: la capitale danese<br />
accontenta qualsiasi gusto. Non<br />
stiamo esagerando. Per gli amanti<br />
dello swing e delle blue note c’è il<br />
Jazz Festival d’Autunno, sparso tra<br />
i pub e le vie della città. Ti basterà<br />
tenere le orecchie aperte per<br />
riconoscerlo. Preferisci qualcosa<br />
di più forte? Il 5 novembre gli<br />
Smashing Pumpkins si esibiscono<br />
al Den Grå Hal, nel quartiere hippy<br />
di Christiania. E dal 3 al 6 novembre<br />
ce n’è anche per gli appassionati di<br />
folk, grazie all’Irish Festival. Preparati<br />
a ballare.<br />
IL SOUVENIR DA PORTARE A<br />
CASA (FORSE): il primo venerdì di<br />
novembre è un giorno sacro per<br />
i copenhagesi. Si celebra infatti il<br />
J-Dag, il giorno in cui nei negozi fa<br />
la sua comparsa la birra di Natale,<br />
lo Juleøl. Il suo sapore è dolce e<br />
speziato e tradizione vuole che<br />
venga consumato durante le<br />
festività. Sempre che ci arrivi, a<br />
Natale.<br />
NOBILI, MA NON SNOB: anche<br />
la Danimarca ha la sua famiglia<br />
reale, che alloggia nel Castello<br />
Amalienborg. Come in Inghilterra,<br />
anche qui ogni giorno si assiste<br />
al cambio della guardia. Ma le<br />
NOTIZIE | ITALIA<br />
somiglianze con i più noti – e<br />
ingessati – Windsor fi niscono qui.<br />
I nobili danesi sono molto più easy.<br />
Non è raro infatti incontrarli in giro in<br />
bicicletta. E hanno pure un sito web<br />
dove condividono l’album di famiglia.<br />
Tra le immagini uffi ciali e composte,<br />
puoi trovare scene più “plebee”,<br />
come quella del principino sporco di<br />
cioccolata di fronte alla torta del suo<br />
(primo) compleanno.<br />
GUIDE NON CONVENZIONALI:<br />
Copenhagen è a misura d’uomo<br />
e puoi visitarla anche a piedi. Devi<br />
solo scegliere la compagnia che<br />
preferisci. Puoi prenotare una<br />
visita della città con i guardiani<br />
notturni o una passeggiata con i<br />
fantasmi. A te la scelta.<br />
LE SFORTUNE DELLA SIRENETTA:<br />
è una delle statue<br />
più conosciute, ma probabilmente<br />
non è tra le più amate. Dalla sua<br />
nascita a oggi la Sirenetta è<br />
stata più volte decapitata, imbrattata<br />
di vernice, segata e persino sradicata<br />
dalla roccia. D’altronde, il suo destino<br />
poco felice era già stato segnato<br />
dalla favola di Andersen.<br />
Ti è venuta voglia di Copenaghen?<br />
Vola con easyJet a partire da<br />
Milano Malpensa da 26,99€<br />
tasse incluse.<br />
TRAVELLER | 185
DERNIÈRES INFOS/NEUIGKEITEN | SUISSE/SCHWEIZ<br />
Frankreich erleben<br />
ab Basel-Freiburg<br />
Mit Bordeaux, Nantes, Nizza und<br />
Korsika haben wir das breiteste Angebot<br />
nach Frankreich ab dem Flughafen<br />
Basel-Freiburg im Vergleich zu anderen<br />
Fluggesellschaften. Mit uns geht es<br />
bis zu fünfmal pro Woche nach<br />
Bordeaux, bis zu zweimal täglich an<br />
die Côte d’Azur und bis zu dreimal<br />
wöchentlich nach Nantes. Ab Ende April<br />
2012 geht es dann wieder dreimal in der<br />
Woche nach Ajaccio auf Korsika.<br />
Wie wäre es mit einem Spaziergang<br />
über die Dune de Pyla, die größte Wanderdüne<br />
Europas bei Bordeaux oder mit<br />
einem Besuch im Casino von Monaco,<br />
direkt neben Nizza? Nantes lockt<br />
mit beeindruckenden Schlössern im<br />
Loiretal und Korsika bietet im Frühjahr<br />
und Sommer den perfekten Urlaub für<br />
Sonnenhungrige und Wanderlustige.<br />
Nichts wie ab nach Frankreich!<br />
Ab Basel-Freiburg jetzt<br />
auch nach Faro<br />
Schon den Sommerurlaub geplant?<br />
Dann nichts wie los, denn ab dem<br />
nächsten Sommer geht es ab Basel-<br />
Freiburg nicht mehr nur nach Porto und<br />
Lissabon sondern auch nach Faro. Die,<br />
im Süden Portugals gelegene, Stadt<br />
lockt mit dem portugiesischen Lebensstyle<br />
und mit noblen Barockbauten aus<br />
dem 18. Jahrhundert. Abgesehen von<br />
dem Kloster dos Capuchos und dem<br />
Bischoftspalast Paço Episopal, lohnt<br />
sich ein Besuch der Stadtmauer und<br />
des Stadtparks.<br />
Gönne dir ein paar sonnige Tage in<br />
Faro und Umgebung. Die Sommerfl üge<br />
2012 stehen ab sofort auf easyJet.com<br />
für dich zur Buchung bereit.<br />
Grande offre vers l’Italie<br />
Nous sommes heureux d’annoncer<br />
qu’easyJet off re le plus grand nombre<br />
de destinations en Italie au départ de<br />
l’aéroport de Genève. Off rez-vous un<br />
weekend à Rome ou visitez la côte<br />
est avec point de départ Brindisi. Nos<br />
deux destinations estivales Cagliari<br />
et Olbia, vous permettent de découvrir<br />
la Sardaigne, à raison de 10 vols par<br />
semaine, à partir de fi n Avril 2012. Avec<br />
186 | TRAVELLER<br />
Neu : Ibiza ab Basel-Freiburg<br />
Neuigkeiten für den Sommer 2012. Ab<br />
sofort kannst du deinen Flug ab Basel-<br />
Freiburg nach Ibiza buchen. Gönne dir ein<br />
paar sonnige Tage auf der Baleareninsel,<br />
die für ihre biologische und historische<br />
Vielfalt 1999 zum Weltkulturerbe erklärt<br />
wurde. Lange Strände und paradiesische<br />
Buchten laden zum Sonnenbaden ein<br />
und hügelige Landschaften im Inneren<br />
der Insel eignen sich zu interessanten<br />
Spaziergängen mit schönen Ausblicken.<br />
4 vols par semaine en été, vous pouvez<br />
aussi visiter Naples et ses alentours.<br />
N’hésitez pas et réservez dès maintenant<br />
vos vols de printemps et d’été vers l’Italie.<br />
Escapade en ville<br />
Profi tez de notre off re au départ de<br />
Genève et off rez-vous quelques jours<br />
dans les villes européennes. Faîtes la<br />
tournée des capitales et (re)découvrez<br />
Londres (jusqu’à 6 vols par jour),<br />
Paris (4 vols par jour), Madrid (jusqu’à<br />
2 vols par jour), Berlin (jusqu’à 2 vols<br />
par jour), Bruxelles (jusqu’à 3 vols par<br />
jour), Rome (jusqu’à 2 vols par jour),<br />
Budapest (jusqu’à 6 vols par semaine),<br />
Ibiza ist aber auch ein beliebter<br />
Urlaubsort für Partylöwen. Legendäre<br />
Clubs wie das Pacha oder Space bieten<br />
nicht nur nachts sondern auch tagsüber<br />
einen gelungenen Mix aus Lounge Bar<br />
und Diskothek.<br />
Lust bekommen? Dann sicher dir die<br />
günstigsten Flüge und buche jetzt schon<br />
deinen Frühjahrs- oder Sommerurlaub<br />
ab Basel-Freiburg auf die Sonneninsel<br />
Ibiza.<br />
Copenhague (jusqu’à 4 vols par<br />
semaine) et Stockholm (jusqu’à 4 vols<br />
par semaine). Découvrez notre off re au<br />
départ de Genève sur easyJet.com et<br />
réservez vos vols dès maintenant.<br />
Été 2012 : plus de vols<br />
vers le soleil<br />
Nos vols d’été sont en vente et comme<br />
chaque année nous avons changé<br />
et amélioré nos fréquences vers les<br />
meilleures destinations au départ de<br />
Genève. Envolez-vous vers les îles de la<br />
méditerranée. Pour les longs weekends<br />
de Mai nous avons augmenté les<br />
fréquences pour vous proposer une<br />
petite escapade en Sardaigne ou en<br />
Corse. De plus vous aurez la possibilité<br />
de vous envoler jusqu’à 4 fois par jour<br />
vers Barcelone. Pour les amateurs de<br />
sports nautiques nous off rons deux vols<br />
par semaine vers Charme el Cheikh<br />
et Hurghada, deux villes égyptiennes<br />
situées au bord de la Mer Rouge.<br />
Réservez dès maintenant vos vacances<br />
pour le printemps et l’été 2012.
* One-Way, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge.<br />
Holland zur Winterzeit<br />
Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Utrecht und Den<br />
Haag – Hollands Städte bieten dir auch<br />
im Winterhalbjahr ein vielfältiges Kultur-,<br />
Stadt- und Nachtleben! Der Ankunft des<br />
weißbärtigen Sinterklaas mit seinem<br />
Boot am 13. November <strong>2011</strong> am IJhaven<br />
von Amsterdam fi ebern die Amsterdamer<br />
jedes Jahr mit großer Begeisterung<br />
entgegen, bevor vom 8. Dezember <strong>2011</strong><br />
bis 8. Januar 2012 Amsterdams Straßen<br />
und Grachten im Rahmen des „Winter<br />
Magic Amsterdam“ in prachtvollem<br />
Lichterglanz erstrahlen. Festlicher<br />
Höhepunkt ist jährlich die große Boots-<br />
Parade, die von der Prinsengracht zur<br />
Amstel segelt. Bewundere noch bis zum<br />
11. Dezember <strong>2011</strong> die Meisterwerke<br />
Weihnachtsmärkte von<br />
Manchester bis Basel<br />
Festlich beleuchtet öff nen sie im<br />
November ihre Pforten: die schönsten<br />
Weihnachtsmärkte Europas bringen<br />
Licht in die dunkle Jahreszeit und der<br />
Duft nach Glühwein, Bratwurst und<br />
Lebkuchen erfüllt die kalte Winterluft!<br />
Die Basler Weihnacht beginnt mit<br />
der Ouvertüre auf dem Marktplatz<br />
und verzaubert die malerische<br />
Altstadt in ein stimmungsvolles<br />
Winterwunderland. „Plaisirs d‘Hiver“,<br />
heißt es in Brüssel vom 25. November<br />
<strong>2011</strong> bis 1. Januar 2012, wenn<br />
Europas Jugendstil-Hauptstadt zum<br />
vorweihnachtlichen Städtetrip einlädt.<br />
Wenn du nach deinem Besuch auf dem<br />
Weihnachtsmarkt in heiße Quellen<br />
eintauchen möchtest, empfehlen<br />
wir dir den Weihnachtsmarkt mit<br />
von Dalí und Vermeer im Mauritshuis<br />
in Den Haag sowie bis zum 16. März<br />
2012 Rubens, Van Dyck und Jordaens<br />
in der Hermitage in Amsterdam und<br />
bis Mitte Februar 2012 den „Rotterdam<br />
Designpreis <strong>2011</strong>“ im Museum Boijmanns<br />
van Beuningen in Rotterdam! Kleine<br />
Geschäfte und gemütliche Cafés sorgen<br />
in den holländischen Städten für idyllische<br />
Einkaufsbummel und Wohlfühlstunden.<br />
Das Lion Noir in Amsterdam ist perfekt<br />
für einen romantischen Abend zu zweit!<br />
Starte mit uns zur Städtetour oder zum<br />
winterlichen Strandspaziergang nach<br />
Holland! Wir fl iegen dich bis zu zweimal<br />
täglich von Berlin nach Amsterdam bereits<br />
ab 26,99 €*.<br />
traditionellem Kunsthandwerk auf dem<br />
Vörösmarty Platz von Budapest und<br />
ein anschließendes Bad in Budapests<br />
historischen Bädern. Oder wie wäre<br />
es mit Weihnachtsshopping in den<br />
festlich geschmückten Kaufhäusern<br />
und Einkaufsstraßen Londons und<br />
Manchesters? Etwa in Manchesters<br />
Traff ord Centre, bevor du auf<br />
Manchesters Weihnachtsmärkten zum<br />
Bratwurst-Testen antrittst oder du beim<br />
Laternenumzug im weihnachtlichen<br />
Tatton Park am 9. Dezember den<br />
Weihnachtsmann begrüßt? Lass dir die<br />
vielfältigen Weihnachtsmärkte nicht<br />
entgehen und buche deine Flüge mit<br />
uns nach Basel-Freiburg, Budapest,<br />
London, Manchester und Brüssel<br />
einfach unter easyJet.com ab 24,99 €*.<br />
Neu: Rhodos und Mykonos<br />
Damit du gar nicht erst in den grauen<br />
Winterblues verfällst, haben wir grandiose<br />
Nachrichten für dich! Unsere neuen<br />
Sommerstrecken ab Berlin Brandenburg<br />
stehen ab sofort zur Buchung bereit! Auf<br />
den beiden griechischen Inseln Rhodos<br />
und Mykonos locken Sommersonne pur<br />
und jede Menge Wasserspaß! Mit rund<br />
3.000 Sonnenstunden im Jahr zählt<br />
Rhodos zu den sonnigsten Regionen<br />
Europas und der Künstlerort Lindos<br />
mit seinen weißen Häusern, kleinen<br />
Gassen und der Akropolis ist einer<br />
der beliebtesten Ausfl ugsziele auf der<br />
viertgrößten griechischen Ferieninsel. Die<br />
Kykladeninsel Mykonos wurde bereits in<br />
den 1950er Jahren vom internationalen<br />
Jetset erobert, darunter Filmstars wie<br />
NEUIGKEITEN | DEUTSCHLAND<br />
Reisen<br />
gewinnen<br />
und mehr<br />
Wie alle deine Freunde fi ndest<br />
du auch uns natürlich auf<br />
Facebook! Auf unserem<br />
Facebook Profi l erfährst<br />
du aktuelle Neuigkeiten<br />
rundum unser Angebot,<br />
unsere Strecken und unseren<br />
Service. Darüber hinaus<br />
gibt es bei uns auf Facebook<br />
regelmäßig attraktive<br />
Gewinnspiele mit tollen Preisen<br />
zu entdecken. Teile mit uns<br />
einfach deine spannendsten<br />
Urlaubserlebnisse und<br />
gewinne mit ein wenig Glück,<br />
deinen Urlaubsfotos und dem<br />
schönsten Urlaubsfi lm beim<br />
aktuellen Gewinnspiel bis<br />
Mitte November <strong>2011</strong> eine<br />
Wochenendreise für zwei<br />
Personen inklusive Unterkunft!<br />
Halte einfach nach der<br />
Applikation Memory Maker<br />
auf unserer Facebookseite<br />
Ausschau. Wir sind gespannt,<br />
wohin dich deine Reise mit<br />
uns geführt hat!<br />
Anthony Perkins und Liz Taylor, und hat<br />
bis heute mit ihren traumhaften<br />
Stränden, malerischen<br />
Sehenswürdigkeiten und ihrem<br />
lebensfrohen Partyleben nicht an<br />
Faszination verloren. Sichere dir schon<br />
jetzt deine Sommerfl üge zu unseren<br />
beiden neuen Zielen ab Berlin nach<br />
Rhodos und Mykonos unter easyJet.com!<br />
TRAVELLER | 187
DERNIERES INFOS | FRANCE<br />
Un été<br />
chaud,<br />
chaud,<br />
chaud !<br />
Cagliari au départ de Paris-<br />
Orly et Palerme au départ de<br />
Lyon Il n’y a pas de<br />
concurrence entre Sardaigne<br />
et Sicile mais il ne va pas être<br />
facile de choisir l’été prochain.<br />
Désolé pour vous : on ne<br />
vous facilite pas le travail en<br />
proposant des prix d’appel<br />
assez proches (37€ et 41€<br />
aller simple taxes incluses<br />
respectivement pour<br />
Cagliari et Palerme). Des prix<br />
qui vont vous faire regretter<br />
votre dernier voyage en train.<br />
Il est tellement agréable<br />
de visiter toute l’Europe<br />
à prix easyJet. 300 jours<br />
d’ensoleillement par an. Des<br />
plages superbes. Des<br />
produits locaux délicieux.<br />
Des paysages de caractère.<br />
L’année prochaine, off rezvous<br />
un grand moment<br />
d’authenticité qui n’exclut pas<br />
le confort!<br />
188 | TRAVELLER<br />
NOUVEAU !<br />
Ajaccio au départ de Lyon<br />
Prenez tout le monde de vitesse et<br />
bénéfi ciez des meilleurs prix.<br />
Si vous aimez la Corse, c’est le<br />
moment d’en profi ter. Les horaires<br />
et tarifs de tous nos vols sont<br />
disponibles jusqu’à fi n septembre<br />
<strong>2011</strong>.<br />
Partez par exemple le samedi en<br />
début d’après-midi, passez trois<br />
jours sur l’Île de Beauté, le temps de<br />
vous ressourcer avant d’attaquer de<br />
nouveau la vie trépidante de Lyon.<br />
Dès le 7 avril 2012, profi tez d’une<br />
douceur sans pareil et évitez la<br />
foule des vacanciers hors période<br />
Rhodes, à partir de 37€ aller simple,<br />
taxes incluses.<br />
Du 3 juillet au 1er septembre 2012<br />
Autant vous le dire tout de suite : il<br />
ne reste rien du colosse de Rhodes,<br />
une des sept merveilles de l’Antiquité<br />
dont on raconte qu’il fallut plusieurs<br />
centaines de chameaux pour le<br />
transporter.<br />
De nos jours, un seul avion vous<br />
suffi ra à partir d’Orly pour vivre des<br />
vacances exceptionnelles. La ville<br />
des Chevaliers de Rhodes alterne<br />
quartiers traditionnels et espaces<br />
estivale !<br />
Pour vous simplifi er la vie, jetez<br />
d’abord un coup d’œil sur les<br />
dizaines d’hôtels et hébergements<br />
proposés sur notre site, des plus<br />
économiques aux plus luxueux.<br />
Avez-vous encore besoin d’être<br />
convaincu des multiples attraits de<br />
la Corse ?<br />
Si vous réservez bien à<br />
l’avance et que vous prenez tout<br />
le monde de vitesse, vous n’aurez<br />
aucun mal à acheter des allers<br />
simples à moins de 40€ taxes<br />
incluses.<br />
Souvenirs colossaux, prix riquiqui !<br />
modernes mais fl euries avec une off re<br />
de services digne des plus grandes<br />
stations balnéaires. L’île s’étend sur<br />
1400km2 et off re une diversité de<br />
paysages étonnante. Elle conviendra<br />
aussi bien aux noctambules les plus<br />
eff rénés qu’aux touristes amoureux de<br />
la nature, de randonnées ou de pêche<br />
sous-marine.<br />
Si vous voulez éviter la foule, faites<br />
le tour de l’île… et, peut-être au détour<br />
d’un chemin, aurez-vous la chance de<br />
découvrir un point de vue hors norme,<br />
seul face à la mer.
Snow<br />
Business<br />
As winter draws in so does another ski<br />
season and with a fl urry of Europe’s<br />
top resorts in easy reach of our great<br />
array of ski airports, we’ll help you slope<br />
off to your dream alpine getaway. With<br />
over 2.5 million passengers fl ying with<br />
us each and every season, it’s clear to<br />
see that we’re mountains above other<br />
airlines when it comes to taking the<br />
independent UK skier to the slopes.<br />
Here’s just fi ve of the 19 airports you<br />
can fl y to, to grab a piste of the action.<br />
GENEVA FOR CHAMONIX<br />
Perfectly nestled between the French<br />
and Swiss Alps, it’s easy to see why<br />
Geneva airport is the most popular of<br />
all our ski airports. Fly to Geneva and<br />
you’ll be less than an hour away from<br />
Chamonix, the world renowned French<br />
winter sports Mecca of the mighty<br />
Mont Blanc Valley. Here you’ll fi nd a<br />
stupendous selection of slopes from<br />
family friendly runs for beginners of<br />
all sizes, to daring off -piste and glacier<br />
options for the more advanced skier.<br />
We fl y to Geneva from Gatwick,<br />
Luton, Stansnted, Bristol,<br />
Bournemouth, Birmingham, Liverpool,<br />
Manchester, Glasgow, Edinburgh and<br />
Belfast International from £29.99 one<br />
way including taxes.<br />
GRENOBLE FOR LES DEUX ALPES<br />
If you’re looking for a buzzing après ski<br />
scene, then look no further than Les<br />
Deux Alpes, as famed for its buzzing<br />
clubs and bars as its fresh powder.<br />
It’s a great resort for beginners and<br />
experts, and is regarded as the hub of<br />
the European freestyle scene, where<br />
many snowboarders gather to practice<br />
and show off their carefully crafted<br />
skills. The resort is based at the point<br />
were the north and south Alps meet and<br />
is blessed with an altitude of 1,650m,<br />
meaning that regular snowfalls can be<br />
expected throughout the season.<br />
We fl y to Grenoble from Gatwick,<br />
Luton, Stansted, Bristol, Birmingham,<br />
Liverpool and Edinburgh from £25.99<br />
one way inc. taxes.<br />
INNSBRUCK SKI VALLEY<br />
Internationally known as the ‘heart<br />
of the Alps’, the Austrian city of<br />
Innsbruck played host to the Winter<br />
Olympics 1964 and again in 1976. Fly<br />
here and you’ll be right in the midst<br />
of the action, with excellent shuttle<br />
bus services taking you straight to<br />
the town’s nine main ski resorts.<br />
Beginners can fi nd their feet on the<br />
slopes of Innsbruck-Inglis, just six<br />
kilometres from the airport, while<br />
those with more experience can test<br />
their skills at Nordpark, which off ers<br />
challenging runs and excellent views of<br />
the city. Be sure to also sample a few of<br />
Innsbruck’s cultural delights, including<br />
a range of museums and galleries and<br />
the stunning Ambras Castle.<br />
We fl y to Innsbruck from Gatwick,<br />
Bristol and Liverpool from £27.99 one<br />
way inc. taxes.<br />
MILAN FOR PILA.<br />
For a ski trip with a view, hit the slopes<br />
of Pila. This well groomed Italian resort<br />
has one of the loveliest locations on<br />
the Alps, from which you’ll see a<br />
range of famous peaks including<br />
Switzerland’s Monte Rosa, France’s<br />
Mont Blanc and Germany’s<br />
Matterhorn. Pila has a friendly and<br />
NEWS | UK<br />
welcoming atmosphere, is great for<br />
families, beginners and intermediate<br />
skiers and also has a good selection<br />
of half-pipes for those looking to enjoy<br />
spot of snowboarding.<br />
We fl y to Milan Malpensa from<br />
Gatwick, Luton and Edinburgh and<br />
to Milan Linate from Gatwick from<br />
£27.99 one way inc. taxes.<br />
ZURICH FOR KLOSTERS<br />
Fly to Zurich and put a little bit of<br />
luxury in your winter with a visit<br />
to the exclusive resort of Klosters.<br />
With an abundance of Alpine charm,<br />
it’s not hard to see why this pretty<br />
Swiss village is the skiing destination<br />
of choice for senior Royal family<br />
members including Princes Charles<br />
and Harry, and the newlywed Duke<br />
and Duchess of Cambridge. Take your<br />
pick of the area’s 97 runs, off ering<br />
a good split for all abilities, or watch<br />
little ones eyes light up with a magical<br />
ride on a reindeer sleigh. And don’t<br />
leave without enjoying a wonderful<br />
evening in the village’s many fabulous<br />
restaurants including the Michelinstarred<br />
Walserhof.<br />
We fl y to Zurich from Gatwick, Luton<br />
and Manchester from £29.99 one way<br />
inc. taxes.<br />
TRAVELLER | 189
NEWS | BUSINESS TRAVEL<br />
DON’T CHANGE<br />
THE WAY YOU<br />
DO BUSINESS,<br />
CHANGE YOUR<br />
BUSINESS FLIGHTS<br />
As one of the largest<br />
airlines in Europe,<br />
easyJet offers<br />
inexpensive business<br />
travel on more of the<br />
top 100 European routes<br />
than any other airline.<br />
What’s more, our<br />
high-frequency fl ights<br />
and network of 500<br />
routes across 29<br />
countries mean you<br />
now have more choice<br />
and fl exibility. So<br />
next time, book at<br />
easyJet.com or<br />
via your business<br />
travel agency for<br />
business fl ights at<br />
economy prices.<br />
190 | TRAVELLER<br />
Why does flying with us<br />
make business sense?<br />
No weight limit on hand baggage – we won’t charge<br />
you for hand baggage, no matter how much it weighs<br />
We fl y you to main airports – save time and expense<br />
by fl ying direct to the major airport close to the heart<br />
of your destination<br />
Get an earlier fl ight home on the same day for free – we<br />
know you’ve got a busy schedule, so if you get to the<br />
airport early for your return fl ight and there’s space available,<br />
we’ll get you on an earlier fl ight home at no additional cost<br />
Speedy Boarding – for a small fee you can beat the<br />
queues and be among the fi rst to board<br />
NEW FLEXI Fare – unlimited free date changes<br />
within a four-week period, plus additional benefi ts<br />
like free Speedy Boarding. Now available to book directly on<br />
easyJet.com or via business travel agents<br />
Find out more good reasons to fl y with<br />
us on business at easyJet.com/business
E25 Dual SIM<br />
Tri-Band Mobile Phone<br />
Enables two SIM cards to be used<br />
in one handset. Purchase an<br />
additional SIM to your own SIM<br />
from a local service provider and<br />
only pay the local tariff saving<br />
you money. The E25 has all the<br />
features of a normal phone such<br />
as Bluetooth, FM radio, video,<br />
music player all in a sleek casing.<br />
The Advantages of the<br />
E25 Dual SIM mobile phones<br />
Dual SIM mobile phones are phones which allow you to fit two<br />
different SIM (Subscriber Identity Modules) cards in the same<br />
phone. With a dual SIM mobile phone you can easily call from<br />
either SIM card. As both SIM cards are in standby at the same<br />
time you can receive a call from either at any time. The same<br />
applies with messages as you can also send or receive from<br />
either SIM card without having to switch. The only time that only<br />
one SIM is active is if you are actually engaged in a call.<br />
Cost savings<br />
Support for two different SIM cards allows you to save money by<br />
using the SIM that represents the best value. An example of this is<br />
if you are in a foreign country, you can use a local SIM card in your<br />
dual SIM phone for calls to that country. This traditionally gives you<br />
far cheaper calls than the roaming SIM card.<br />
Only carry one mobile phone<br />
Dual SIM mobile phone owners do not have to carry two mobile<br />
phones, they have the benefit of being able to receive calls from<br />
business on SIM 1 and friends and family on SIM 2 at all times.<br />
Check out<br />
Page 22 in the<br />
Boutique & Bistro<br />
Magazine<br />
Cheaper call rates<br />
Phones with dual SIM allow you to choose between two different SIM<br />
cards from different networks and rates. This allows you to use the<br />
SIM that represents the best value to make cheaper calls.<br />
Dual SIM mobiles phones allow business travellers to insert a SIM from<br />
a foreign phone network. This means that they can use their dual SIM<br />
mobile to make local calls for cheaper rates. Meanwhile, they are still<br />
reachable all the time by friends and family on their home SIM.<br />
Who are dual SIM mobile phones suitable for?<br />
Business users really appreciate the way that dual SIM mobile phones<br />
make it easier for them to juggle their home and working lives.<br />
However, dual SIM mobile phones have also found favour with everyday<br />
users due to the impressive cost savings they can offer.<br />
What is the difference between a<br />
dual SIM phone and a dual SIM card?<br />
With a dual SIM card device you cannot have both SIM cards active at<br />
the same time. Dual SIM cards work by switching from one SIM card to<br />
the other but not both active at the same time.
NEWS | AWARD-WINNING WINE<br />
★<br />
AVAILABLE<br />
ONBOARD<br />
THE WINNER<br />
BY A NOSE<br />
It’s offi cial – we serve the best white wine in the skies:<br />
our aromatic Côtes de Gascogne is an award winner<br />
IT CAN TOAST a new business deal,<br />
take the edge off nerves or mark the<br />
start of a well-earned holiday. Yes,<br />
kicking back and relaxing with a glass<br />
of vino is a fi ne way to begin a fl ight. But<br />
even though you’re in the air, you’ll still<br />
want to drink something decent.<br />
Enter Louis Mondeville Côtes<br />
de Gascogne. It’s not just good, it’s<br />
the best white wine you can buy on<br />
any fl ight, according to a recent<br />
award from fl ight-comparison site<br />
Skyscanner. “It has a wonderfully<br />
exuberant aroma – one of those<br />
wines that leap from the glass,”<br />
says head judge Tom Cannavan.<br />
So what does it take to make<br />
a passenger sit up and take notice<br />
at 30,000ft? “It’s clean as a whistle<br />
and has plenty of energy in the<br />
mouth, making it quite a nice<br />
192 | TRAVELLER<br />
wine to relax with and anticipate the<br />
journey ahead,” explains Cannavan, a<br />
top wine writer, broadcaster and also<br />
frequent fl yer. He encouraged his fellow<br />
judges to look for a “genuine reaction<br />
to what they found in the glass, to<br />
concentrate on aroma and fl avour,<br />
and how much they would want a<br />
second glass”.<br />
Cabin pressure can dull down<br />
the taste buds, so wine available<br />
in-fl ight needs to be particularly<br />
punchy. This wine comes from<br />
Gers, a region of rolling chalk hills<br />
and coastal breezes in south-west<br />
France. Not a bad workplace for<br />
wine maker Thierry Coulon, who<br />
remembers easyJet’s visit to<br />
taste the wine, a mixture of ugni<br />
blanc and colombard grapes. “We<br />
tried to do our best to create a<br />
Aromatic, punchy, lots of sauvignon blanc-ish character with some pea-pod crunch and<br />
plenty of fruit. On the palate a bold, orange and grapefruit-fl avoured wine with a long fi nish.<br />
Wine maker Thierry<br />
Coulon and the<br />
grapes that go into<br />
the award-winning<br />
Côtes de Gascogne;<br />
below, the<br />
Gers region of<br />
France is cooled by<br />
Atlantic breezes all<br />
year round<br />
wine that passengers would enjoy. We<br />
thought it should be clean, easy to drink<br />
and fruity. Not complicated.” The award,<br />
he says, was a bonus.<br />
Two main factors give the wine its<br />
winning aroma. Fresh winds from the<br />
Atlantic roll over the vineyard year<br />
round, with cold summer nights that<br />
make locals don warm coats despite<br />
the hot, sunny days. The grapes do the<br />
same, growing thick skins to cope with<br />
the drop in temperature, and it’s in this<br />
outer layer that the aroma develops.<br />
During production, Coulon leaves the<br />
grapes in big vats for an unusually long<br />
time to ensure that as much fl avour and<br />
aroma as possible is extracted, and a lot<br />
of care is taken to protect the wine from<br />
the air, which can taint it.<br />
It’s time and eff ort that pays off . Once<br />
bottled, Coulon’s Côtes de Gascogne is<br />
ready to tickle the taste buds of easyJet<br />
passengers and any other experts<br />
who come to judge it. And now for that<br />
second glass…<br />
Gers is 95km from Toulouse, where<br />
easyJet fl ies to from ten destinations<br />
WORDS: MARIE CLELAND
LAST WORD | BARCELONA<br />
Comedian<br />
Rachel Arieff<br />
on Barcelona PHOTO<br />
“Barcelona’s greatness lies in its power of seduction. People fall in love with it and the lucky<br />
ones end up staying. Café de l’Òpera was the very fi rst place I came to when I moved here<br />
in 2004 and I’ve loved it ever since. Like the city, it’s original, completely unforgettable. It’s<br />
also one of the best places to have a beer and a tapa, meet friends and hang out all night.”<br />
Rachel runs Anti-Karaoke, a cross between a rock concert, a Broadway musical and an anything-goes party, every Monday night<br />
at Sala Apolo (anti-karaoke.com); cafeoperabcn.com<br />
194 | TRAVELLER<br />
© MARIANO HERRERA
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