november-2011

Hemisphe heres 

THREE PERFECT DAYS IN MEXICO CITY 

BILL COSBY REVISITS 

THE EARLY YEARS IN 

THE HEMI Q&A 

A FOOLPROOF GUIDE 

TO THE BEST HOLIDAY 

GIFT IDEAS 

OLD-SCHOOL EATS ON 

HAMBURG’S BRAND-NEW 

WATERFRONT 

PORSCHE’S SLEEK 

TOURING CAR TAKES 

SAN SEBASTIÁN

Your Golden Angel 

No one else can see it, but you know the secret of your Wellendorff ring – 

a little golden angel is hidden inside. 

Read the whole story which inspired us to create this new collection at: 

www.wellendorff.com/goldenangel

A true story: 

“One day a raging fire destroyed everything I possessed, 

including my beloved jewellery. 

Only one piece survived the inferno practically 

undamaged: my Wellendorff necklace adorned with a 

golden angel. 

After this fire, jewellery has a completely different meaning 

for me; because it proves that miracles do happen.” 

Letter from Inga Lasmane of Riga, Latvia. 

This letter is the inspiration for our new collection. 

It came as a welcome reminder of the true value of jewellery: 

To offer joy and protection. 

Wellendorff-Boutique San Francisco at Shreve & Co., 200 Post Street, tel. 415.860.4010. 

For further details or how to find a Wellendorff jeweller near you, please contact 

Wellendorff, tel. 801.556.5206 or e-mail: usa@wellendorff.com, www.wellendorff.com

Inspirato Residence, Beaver Creek, Colorado 

Sleeps 21 from $500/night 

Inspirato is a private club which requires a non-refundable Initiation Fee. Reservations vary in price by property and 

date, and are subject to availability. Members-only rates as of 11/1/11 and subject to change. © 2011, Inspirato LLC.

THE GREATEST 

GIFT OF ALL 

Give an Inspirato membership and you’re sure to receive smiles and 

 

friends. That’s the emotional side of the equation. 

Here’s the rational side. Your vacation doesn’t have to cost a fortune. 

Our deeply discounted nightly rates say it loud and clear. 

Membership includes a growing list of vacation destinations, 

an unmatched service experience, and no complicated rules. 

Visit inspirato.com/thegreatestgift 

or call 888.546.5008.

* Our fiestas always 

finish early 

www.spain.info

PHOTOGRAPH BY HOLLY WILMETH 

NOVEMBER 

CONTENTS 

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

» 82 

TOIL AND TROUBLE 

In recent years, the world’s theater 

scene has been struggling. But 

amid the doldrums, one intrepid 

British stage company hit it very, 

very big by combining Macbeth, 

Hitchcock and, most important, 

you, all in the creaky confi nes of 

an abandoned Manhattan hotel. 

BY JENNA SCHERER 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SARAH WILMER 

» 91 

BEST BUYS 

Regifting—which occurs when a 

present misses the target so badly 

that the recipient can hardly bear 

to have it in her home—happens 

to the best of us. To help you avoid 

such a fate, we recruited experts 

from the tech, design, food, toy 

and sports worlds to off er can’tmiss 

picks this holiday season. 

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LISA SHIN 

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN JAY CABUAY 

» 102 

THREE PERFECT DAYS: 

MEXICO CITY 

From the leafy streets of Polanco 

to the bohemian haunts of Roma, 

we take you through the best of 

one of the world’s biggest and 

most vibrant cities. 

BY JOE KEOHANE 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY HOLLY WILMETH 

STANDING GUARD 

A traditional carving adorns 

the exterior of Mexico City’s 

Frida Kahlo Museum 

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011 7

WHORL OF POSSIBILITIES 

A “space portal” leads visitors 

into the newly renovated 

theater at Chicago’s Adler 

Planetarium, page 50 

NOVEMBER 

CONTENTS 

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

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SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES 

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facebook.com/UnitedHemispheres 

twitter.com/hemispheresmag 

ABOUT THE COVER: A vibrant 

example of the crafts on off er at 

Mexico City’s El Bazar del Sábado, 

this traditional beadwork was 

photographed by Holly Wilmeth 

8 NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 

10 CONTRIBUTORS 

13 CEO LETTER 

A word from Jeff Smisek 

14 VOICES 

A message to fl yers 

16 CONNECTIONS 

What’s new at United 

THE WORLD 

19 DISPATCHES 

Miami’s Art Basel, by the 

numbers; Japan’s fi rst 

foreign geisha simplifi es 

the kimono; Berlin’s scoring 

leader; the world’s smallest 

brewery; Kristin Chenoweth 

gets back to her roots 

29 STAY 

Indulge in the ultimate 

ski-free ski vacation 

BY CHRIS WRIGHT 

34 ROAD TRIP 

Taking the clan to San 

Sebastián in the four-door 

Porsche Panamera 

BY STEPHAN TALTY 

! 

38 FOOD & DRINK 

A taste of Hamburg’s culinary 

heritage; Germany’s 

spiciest currywurst 

BY JIFFER BOURGUIGNON 

43 HOW IT’S DONE 

Dubai’s record-shattering 

new bridge—built on 

shifting sand 


46 WHAT TO WEAR 

Looking sharp among 

the weeping willows of 

Savannah 

BY WAYMAN BANNERMAN 

CULTURE 

49 THE BIG TEN 

John Paul Gaultier fêted 

in Dallas, Lou Reed meets 

Metallica and what else to 

watch, read and listen to 

this month 

56 TECH 

The best of the nextgeneration 

newsreaders 

BY TOM SAMILJAN 

59 BRIGHT IDEAS 

Autoworker. Facebook wiz. 

Cancer researcher. Meet 

Jeff Hammerbacher, 29 

BY PETER COHAN 

70 THE HEMI Q&A 

Bill Cosby on honing his 

comedic style (plus: how 

not to apply cologne) 

BY DAVID CARR 

76 THE FAN 

A look at the thrilling run-up 

to this year’s Breeders’ Cup 

BY MICHAEL KAPLAN 

ENTERTAINMENT 

& INFORMATION 

125 Movies, Television and 

Audio Programming 

134 Crossword and Sudoku 

139 Route Maps, Customs 

& Immigration, Our Fleet, 

Terminal Diagrams, Safety 

& Travel Assistance, 

MileagePlus and Alliances 

& Partnerships 

160 Food & Beverages 

WRITE TO US: Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com • 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 

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FUJIFILM and FUJINON are trademarks of FUJIFILM Corporation and its affi liates. © 2011 FUJIFILM North America Corporation and its affi liates. All rights reserved.

The Right Stuff 

FOR THIS MONTH’S holiday gift guide (“Best Buys,” 

page 91), senior editor Jacqueline Detwiler tapped fi ve 

industry gurus and dozens of retailers to help assemble 

a spread of the season’s coolest and most distinctive presents. 

Wrangling experts—a chef, a toymaker, a designer, 

a golf pro and an executive at Google Chrome—was a 

challenge, but they ended up providing some inspired 

picks. “I edit the Goods section of Hemispheres every 

month, so I know a lot about the great new stuff 

that’s out there. I fi rst saw the pink Himalayan salt 

blocks in a food shop in Boston, for instance. But some 

of the things our experts came up with, like the 

handheld food smoker and those odd and adorable 

Sing-a-ma-jigs, I never would’ve thought of 

in a million years,” she says. “Now I want them.” 

? 

WHAT DO YOU THINK? 

WRITE TO US! Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com 

Hemispheres Magazine, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 

Contributors 

JENNA SCHERER 

is a writer based in 

Boston, where she 

covers arts, culture 

and ephemera for the 

Boston Herald, Time Out 

and other publications. 

Ever since attending a 

performance of Sleep 

No More in a fauxderelict 

Manhattan 

hotel (“Toil and 

Trouble,” page 82), 

she keeps seeing 

Prohibition-era witches 

lurking in the shadows. 


STEPHAN TALTY 

reports that driving 

to San Sebastián in 

a Porsche Panamera 

(“Flexible Flyer,” page 

34) was a highlight of 

his nine months living 

in Spain, surpassed only 

by body-surfi ng with his 

young son Asher off one 

of the city’s stunning 

beaches. A journalist 

now living in New York, 

Talty writes for Men’s 

Journal and Playboy. 

LISA SHIN 

is a digital still-life 

photographer who’s 

worked for Cover Girl, 

Vogue and Real Simple. 

But our annual gift 

guide (“Best Buys,” 

page 91) proved “one 

of the most challenging 

shoots I’ve ever done,” 

she says. “We shot the 

gifts, then mounted 

the images on cubes, 

painted them and shot 

the results to create the 

fi nal images—in just 

two days!” 

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Keohane 

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Sam Polcer 

MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer L. Johnson 

SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler 

FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti 

ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright 

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR 

Tim Vienckowski 

PHOTO EDITOR Jessie Adler 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, 

Michael Kaplan, Edward Lewine, 

Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis, 

Grant Stoddard, Matt Thompson 

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS 

Jeff rey Decoster, Peter James Field, 

Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, 

Steve Stankiewicz 

EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR 

Michael Keating 

U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

Orion Ray-Jones 

Ink, 68 Jay St., 

Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 

Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 

editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com 

hemispheresmagazine.com 

WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi 

ADVERTISING 

U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR 

Stephen Andrews 

VP STRATEGY AND BUSINESS 

DEVELOPMENT Andrea Alexander 

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS 

Ann Blach, Robbin Gordon, Kevin Green, 

Kristina Kurz, Dorie Leo, Danny Litton, 

Mary Anne MacLean, Dave Madonia, 

Joe McHugh, Jack Miller, Jeff Miller, 

Stu Opfer, Marshall Rubin, Scott Stone, 

Caryn Tanis 

NORTHEAST ADVERTISING DIRECTOR 

Brian McLaughlin 

HAWAII Robert Wiegand 

EUROPE Sarah Orme 

ASIA Jacqueline Ho 

LATIN AMERICA Alejandro Salas 

CARIBBEAN Francesca Mariani 

SOUTH AMERICA Olivier Capoulade 

PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey 

Tel: +1 678-553-8091 

PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS 

Grace Dinwiddie, Stacy Willis 

MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER 

Nikkole Wyrick 

SALES AND MARKETING 

COORDINATOR Melinda Hanna 

Ink (sales), Capital Building, 

255 E. Paces Ferry Rd., Ste. 400, 

Atlanta, GA 30305 

Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 

Ink 

CEO Jeff rey O’Rourke 

COO Hugh Godsal 

PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie 

HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is 

strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this 

publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the 

prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices 

and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions 

expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the 

Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not 

accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither 

United, its subsidiaries nor affi liates guarantees the accuracy, 

completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these 

facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment 

advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security 

or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a 

professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are 

supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines 

or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this 

publication does not imply endorsement of that company or 

its products or services by United Airlines. 

LISA SHIN (SING-A-MA-JIG)

NASDAQ GRMN 

©2011 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries 

Lifetime maps include up to four map updates per year for the useful life of your product or as long as Garmin receives map data from 

its supplier, whichever is shorter. Not transferable. Additional memory (purchase required) may be necessary for future map updates. 

Lifetime traffic applies for the useful life of your product or as long as Garmin receives traffic data from its supplier, whichever is shorter. 

Traffic and photoReal junction view not available for all areas. See www.garmin.com for lifetime maps and traffic details, coverage, 

terms and conditions. 

Help your business traveler 

make their next presentation. 

A Garmin nüvi is still the best navigator on the road. And it makes 

a great gift for road weary travelers. The new 2012 nüvi models 

are available with FREE Lifetime Map Updates, the best FREE Digital 

3D Traffic avoidance system, photoReal junction views, hands-free 

voice-activated navigation, and, as always, NEVER require a data 

plan or navigation service fee. They may worry about a meeting, but 

not about how to get to it. This Holiday, Give a Garmin. 

To learn more, visit Garmin.com 

Someone you know needs one

© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved. 

Your “go-to” app 

when you’re on the go. 

Make our new app your 

one-stop travel center. 

Scan this QR code for more information. 

The new United travel app is like a travel toolkit. You can book flights. Check in and 

store your Mobile Boarding Pass. Even see your flight status, including departure gate, 

seat map and upgrade priority list. It’s one travel app with many applications.

WELCOME ABOARD, and thanks for choosing 

United Airlines for your fl ight today. 

It’s no secret that the U.S. airline industry 

has been through rough times in the 

past decade, losing a total of $55 billion 

and laying off 160,000 workers during that 

time. We have endured high and volatile 

fuel costs, a global recession, and numerous 

natural disasters adversely aff ecting 

air travel. In the past year or so, we’ve 

seen some signs of hope. Industry trends 

like consolidation and capacity discipline 

have helped airlines begin to stabilize, 

but the industry continues to face serious 

challenges. On the rare occasions 

when airlines are profi table, they obtain 

only a razor-thin profi t margin. This is a 

sad state of aff airs for an industry that is 

such a powerful economic engine, driving 

$1.2 trillion in economic activity every year 

and connecting people, cargo and cultures 

around the world. 

Yet Washington continues to use airlines 

(and their employees, shareholders 

and customers) as a piggy bank to be 

CEO LETTER 

Stop Air Tax Now 

raided by government. 

Today, airlines and our passengers pay 

17 different federal aviation taxes and 

fees in the U.S., which totaled $16.5 billion 

in 2010. Federal taxes have increased 

from 7 percent of the price of a typical 

ticket in 1972 to 20 percent in 2011. And 

this excludes income tax! How would 

your business do if Washington took 

20 percent off the top before you saw a 

nickel? Our industry leads all others in 

having the greatest number of unique 

taxes and fees imposed upon it and its 

customers by Washington. Think about 

what you buy—milk, electronics, clothing, 

etc. None of these goods is taxed at a rate 

of 20 percent (and if they were, you might 

not buy them). Airlines are taxed as a sin, 

at a higher rate than alcohol, tobacco and 

fi rearms. Yet we are not a sin. We are an 

economic good that drives our economy 

and offers well-paying jobs. Moreover, 

airlines power the economies of hub cities 

and are economic lifelines to small and 

medium-sized communities. 

Yet Washington’s grab for our and our 

customers’ money is reaching unheard-of 

levels now. The Administration’s American 

Jobs Act proposes a new $100-per-fl ight 

tax that would cost $11 billion over 10 

years. The proposal also seeks to increase 

the passenger security tax from today’s 

minimum of $2.50 per customer per fl ight 

segment to $7.50. This proposed increase 

would cost nearly $25 billion over 10 years. 

More than half that amount would not 

fund security, but would instead be 

applied to Washington’s debt. Why should 

airlines and their passengers be singled 

out to pay for Washington’s profligacy? 

If these major tax increases occur, the 

big losers will not be just our customers, 

who will be saddled with these new and 

increased taxes, but also small communities 

all over the country that will 

lose service as airlines become unable 

to absorb the losses caused by these 

taxes. These proposed additional taxes 

(which are on top of the 20 percent tax 

level currently burdening the industry) 

are job killers, because if they become 

law, the industry will be forced to lay off 

thousands of employees as it downsizes to 

eliminate routes and service that become 

unprofitable. For more information on 

what these taxes would mean to communities, 

customers and airline employees, 

go to www.stopairtaxnow.com. 

In the global world we serve today, U.S. 

airlines compete not just against each 

other, but also against foreign fl ag carriers. 

Many nations have an enlightened 

aviation policy. The U.S. has a benighted 

policy. It’s critical that we have a national 

aviation policy that supports, rather than 

hinders, U.S. airlines so we can continue to 

provide you with the service you want and 

our country and economy need. 

Thanks again for your business. We 

look forward to seeing you again on a 

future fl ight. 

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, 

UNITED AIRLINES 


A Shining Example 

International Concierge Gloria ‘Glo’ Leitao brightens up 

the day for customers and co-workers alike BY A. AVERYL RE 

FRIENDS AND COLLEAGUES call Gloria 

Leitao “Glo.” The nickname is a fitting 

one, considering how the international 

concierge goes about her job at New York/ 

Newark Liberty International Airport 

(EWR), bringing a kind of shine to whatever 

she does. 

“When people have experience, they 

might become complacent about their 

work, but that’s not the case with Gloria,” 

says Michael Mitolo, EWR’s airport operations 

supervisor. “She’s enthusiastic and 

energetic, and she projects that to her coworkers. 

Gloria always looks at the upside.” 

Leitao has been with the airline since 

1987, working in a number of customer 


VOICES 

service positions both behind the scenes 

and on the front lines. Twelve years ago, 

she found her niche when she joined the 

Concierge Program, and today Leitao 

serves on an elite team of 52 concierges 

who handle primarily international 

BusinessFirst customers. 

“Our customers are premium-paying 

customers,” Leitao says. “When you’re 

paying that much to travel, you expect a 

service that meets that dollar amount. We 

uphold the integrity of the BusinessFirst 

cabin, no ma er the situation.” 

In addition to meeting the needs of 

passengers at the airport, the concierges 

monitor inbound and outbound flights 

to make sure passengers make their connecting 

flights, rebooking itineraries as 

needed to ensure each passenger has a 

smooth travel experience. Each concierge 

is responsible for as many as 200 passengers 

a day among the fl ights they’ve 

been assigned out of the 100 or so that go 

through Newark daily in peak season. 

Leitao says patience, a great attitude 

and the ability to listen well are her biggest 

assets in doing her job. “You have 

to keep things in perspective,” she says. 

“I’m grateful for everything I have—I’m 

grateful I can come to work, walk to my 

gate, support my customers. They may 

tell me about problems they have, and 

I hear them out. A customer may have 

a line behind him, but at that moment, 

he has my full a ention for as long as it 

takes. You can be positive or you can be 

negative. Positive is a be er state to be in, 

so I choose to be positive.” 

Because she works the same flights 

from day to day, Leitao has go en to know 

many loyal customers who fl y regularly, 

and considers them friends. Yet one of her 

favorite job experiences involved someone 

who not only doesn’t fl y United regularly, 

but also would not be strictly considered 

a passenger. 

“We had a Catholic monsignor coming 

in from Honolulu. My supervisor told me, 

‘I don’t know what he needs, but if anyone 

can handle it, it would be you.’ So I went off 

to fi nd the monsignor,” Leitao recalls. “He 

told me he was traveling with a reliquary 

of St. Thérèse of the Li le Flower, and ‘she’ 

could not be le alone. Well, I broke out 

in tears. I asked my supervisor if I could 

sit with her.” 

The monsignor had traveled with the 

reliquary throughout Guam and the 

Polynesian region, and was now passing 

through Newark on his way back to 

France. Leitao stayed in cargo with the 

remains of the saint until it was time to 

meet the monsignor at the airport lounge 

and escort him to his fl ight to Paris. 

“I wasn’t able to upgrade him,” Leitao 

says, “but he said, ‘If St. Thérèse can fly 

cargo, I can fl y coach.’ 

“It was the most amazing assignment 

ever given to me,” she says. “That’s what 

my job does for me: Every day, I come in 

and I never know what I’m going to do 

or who I’m going to meet. It’s like a new 

adventure every day. That’s what makes 

every day exciting.”

New Name, New Look, 

New Benefi ts 

United Club brings our airport lounges under one sleek, modern 

umbrella, while MileagePlus becomes even more rewarding 

IN SEPTEMBER, as part of our drive to provide a 

more consistent travel experience for our customers, 

we announced two more milestones in 

the integration of our two airlines’ products and 

services. On October 1, we marked the fi rst milestone 

when our airport lounges became United 

Clubs, replacing United’s Red Carpet Clubs and 

Continental’s Presidents Clubs. 

Encompassing more than 50 

lounges in 39 airports worldwide, 

United Clubs off er members and 

their guests complimentary bar 

service with snacks and beverages; business 

amenities such as Wi-Fi, conference rooms and 

workstations; and personalized assistance with 

reservations, seat selection, upgrades and boarding 

passes. In time, our remodeled clubs will 

provide even more business-friendly features 

that customers value, like additional workstations 

to enable them to be more productive. 

Red Carpet Club and Presidents Club 

members may continue to access any of the 

new United Clubs with their current membership 

credentials. Members also have access to 

participating Star Alliance–affi liated lounges 

located all around the globe. 


CONNECTIONS 

For more information about United Club 

and membership pricing, visit united.com/ 

unitedclub or continental.com/unitedclub. 

As for our second milestone, we recently 

announced the details of the 2012 MileagePlus 

loyalty program, including new benefi ts and 

services for United’s and Continental’s most 

frequent fl yers, more opportunities 

for members to redeem their 

award miles and additional recognition 

for customers who purchase 

tickets in premium cabins or at 

premium economy fares. 

Premier members enjoy benefi ts including 

upgrades, Premier Access, a checked-baggage 

allowance, Economy Plus seating and Premier 

bonus award miles. Premier-level status can be 

reached with as few as 25,000 Premier qualifying 

miles or 30 Premier qualifying segments. 

We are building the world’s most rewarding 

loyalty program, and we now have more than 

30 worldwide airline partners and thousands 

of participating hotels, car rental agencies, 

restaurants and retailers. To learn more about 

the program and all the benefi ts you can enjoy, 

go to mileageplus.com. 

ASK THE PILOT 

With Captain Mike Bowers 

Q: Why is it that fl ights 

going east to west 

within the U.S. take longer 

than fl ights going 

west to east, especially 

in the winter? 

A: The reason the 

fl ights take more time 

when heading west is 

because you’re fl ying 

into a headwind caused 

by the jet stream, which 

fl ows from west to east 

in the U.S. Conversely, 

when fl ying east you 

have a tailwind. The 

winds at fl ying altitude 

are normally in the 

range of 70 to 100 mph 

in the summer and can 

be even higher in the 

winter. That speed is 

directly added to or 

subtracted from the 

aircraft’s ground speed 

and, as a result, makes a 

signifi cant diff erence in 

fl ying time. 

Do you have a question 

for Captain Bowers? Write 

to him at askthepilot@ 

united.com

Your official 

HQ for TCB.* 

*Taking Care of Business 

From must-haves like complimentary Wi-Fi and 

printing to creature comforts like our exclusive 

Garden Sleep System bed, the most successful 

business trip is one spent at Hilton Garden Inn. ® 

And with Hilton HHonors , you can now earn more for all 

stays through 2011 with our Fast Ways to Free Stays promotion. 

Choose between a Free Night Certificate or double HHonors points. 

Enroll today to collect your rewards at HHonors.com/FastWays 

HGI.com 1-877-STAY HGI 

©2011 Hilton Worldwide

Matching Earrings 

available 

Palm Tree Pendant 

with Diamonds 

Various sizes available 

Available in 14K Yellow, 

White or Rose Gold 

OAHU: Ala Moana CenterOutrigger Waikiki on Kalakaua Avenue (across from International Market Place) 

Waikiki BeachwalkHilton Hawaiian Village 

MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu CenterLahaina CanneryThe Shops at Wailea Whalers Village 

Front Street (2 locations)Hyatt Regency MauiGrand Wailea Resort 

KAUAI: Poipu Shopping VillageGrand Hyatt Kauai 

BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona MarketplaceKings’ ShopsHilton Waikoloa Village 

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE: Pride of America 

BOSTON: Natick CollectionNorthshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook CenterWoodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center 

DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale GalleriaNorthridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field 

ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall 

PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion ValleyHorton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair 

SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center 

1-866-296-5462

PHOTO EXHIBITOR CREDIT INFORMATION TK - REMOVE CURRENT IF EMPTY AS OF 9/23/11 

THE WORLD 

FACTS TRENDS NEWS 

Painting 

the Town 

The most prestigious art 

show in the Americas, Art 

Basel Miami Beach turns 10 

this year—and in a city be er 

known for low-rise bikinis than 

highbrow art, it promises to be a 

world-class party. Here’s where 

the 260-plus exhibitors hail 

from (so you can be prepared to 

ask, “Can I buy you a mojito?” 

in all the right languages). 

ILLUSTRATION BY LA TIGRE 


Possessed by the magic of a great 

celebration, dancers attired in magnificent 

gold costumes, dance for days and days 

In the Mirror of the Sky, the Virgin conquered the demon by surrounding 

it with her burning flames, thus saving the inhabitants from destruction. 

That day she was consecrated as their protector and has ever since been 

venerated with the greatest celebration witnessed by the Land of the Sun. 

This celebration exists. You can see it, feel it. 

Peru. Live the legend. 

peru.travel/en/ 

Celebrate the spectacular Festival of 

the Virgin of Candelaria on the shores 

of Titicaca, the world’s highest 

navigable lake.

ACROSS THE WATER from Berlin’s Museum Island, the audience 

at the Zeughauskino waits for the lights to dim. A man in a red 

velvet jacket rises from the front row, crosses toward the grand 

piano underneath the movie screen and sits down. The theater 

goes dark, the fi lm starts, the man looks up at the screen and he 

begins to play. 

The fi lm is Frau im Mond (“Woman in the Moon”), a 1929 silent 

sci-fi classic by Austrian master Fritz Lang. It’s one that the cinephiles 

in the seats know and love, but that isn’t the only draw: The 

man at the piano is Carsten-Stephan Graf von Bothmer, and he’s no 

ordinary fi lm accompanist, as evidenced by his lack of sheet music. 

Von Bothmer has improvised music for hundreds of silent fi lms, 

his favorite being Lang’s futuristic masterwork, Metropolis, which 

he’s done 35 times. A decade ago, von Bothmer, who studied piano 

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI 

DISPATCHES 

BERLIN 

Silent Treatment 

Classic fi lms of yesteryear (along with the odd sporting event) 

get a new sound BY GIULIA PINES 

at the Universität der Künste (University of the Arts) in Berlin, was 

asked by a theater manager to score the fi lm. A er failing to write 

music to his own satisfaction, von Bothmer improvised a performance 

that enthralled the audience and launched his new career. 

One of his most talked-about performances was at Berlin’s 

Emmaus Church in July last year, during the fi nal four games 

of the World Cup. He improvised a commentary on the games’ 

action using the church organ, throwing in familiar riff s such as 

“The Imperial March” from Star Wars. The fans, he says, “had never 

experienced a game so intensely before.” 

Although no such feats are planned for the immediate future, 

von Bothmer recently returned from a tour of South America 

and a performance in the Philippines. So which fi lm will get his 

treatment next? “I’d really love to do The Lord of the Rings,” he says. 


Photo: Nathan Bilow Inset photos: Tom Stillo, Alex Fenlon 

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TOKYO 

Beginner’s Belt 

ONE OF THE GEISHA WORLD’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS IS REVEALED 

A woman dressed in a powder-blue kimono and wooden geta 

sandals makes her way through the crowd near Tokyo’s oldest 

temple, Sensoji, in what was once an infamous entertainment 

district. Her name is Sayuki. And while she prefers not to reveal 

her age or full name, Sayuki has been well known in her adopted 

country since 2007, when the Australian became the fi rst-ever 

foreign geisha. 

After gliding past the sweets stalls and tea shops lining the 

narrow streets, this social anthropologist (who holds both a Ph.D. 

and an M.B.A. from Oxford) arrives at her latest tradition-bucking 

venture: Sayuki no Kimonoya, a store that specializes in kimonos 

that wearers can easily put on by themselves. 

Opened in March, the tiny shop is fi lled with brightly colored, 

neatly folded kimonos, many of which are recycled, but all of which 

are immaculate. (A used kimono set begins at around $250, or 

about a 10th of the price of a new one.) Sayuki’s hottest seller, 

however, is her revolutionary take on the traditional belt known as 

an obi. Little known outside the geisha community, the revamped 

version is called a tsukeobi: Instead of the single stretch of material 

used in an obi, each tsukeobi is cut into two pieces, allowing even 

novices to fasten it in minutes. 

“Nearly every Japanese woman has 

an obi at home,” Sayuki says, “but 

92 percent of them are unable to 

fasten one on their own. It’s very 

diffi cult and requires strength 

and practice. The tsukeobi 

makes it easier and faster, 

and once it’s on, no one can 

tell the diff erence.” 

Sayuki notes with a polite 

smile that her product is 

perhaps not for kimono 

traditionalists. Considering 

the many customers who go 

straight from Sayuki no Kimonoya 

to the nearby Hello Kitty 

photo studio to have a picture taken 

in their new regalia, she’s probably 

right. —DANIELLE DEMETRIOU 

Dispatches || THE WORLD 

NEW YORK 

TINY BUBBLES 

Pu ing the “micro” 

in microbrewery 

Coney Island, meet your newest sideshow 

a raction. While Shmaltz Brewing Co. 

may brew more than 100,000 cases of beer 

a year, it’s debuting a side project, Coney 

Island Brewing Co., that claims to be the 

smallest commercially licensed brewery 

in the world. 

All of Shmaltz’s beers—which include 

a playful collection of brews featuring 

unlikely ingredients (pomegranate, for 

instance) and labels with freak-show 

imagery—are contract brewed by Mendocino 

Brewing Co. in Saratoga Springs, 

N.Y. But recently, Jeremy Cowan, who 

founded Shmaltz in 1996, got a hankering 

to dabble in small batches. This summer 

he offi cially opened a brewery of his own 

just steps from Coney Island’s legendary 

boardwalk. It’s a 175-square-foot box of 

a space where beer is brewed one gallon 

at a time in a ramshackle system of pots 

and burners on full display. “It’s a fun 

extension of the whole brewery experience,” 

says manager and art director Ma 

Polacheck. “We can do whatever we want 

without having to answer to anyone.” 

Beyond sampling Shmaltz’s usual 

lineup of beers at Coney’s endearingly 

clu ered sales counter, visitors can sip 

ever-changing, o en one-time-only 

concoctions. Cowan and his team 

rroutinely 

invite both professional 

an and amateur guest brewers to man 

the brew ke le, and nothing is too 

outlandish: Coney’s fridge recently 

stocked a Belgian-style ale made with 

apple and toasted coconut. Next up? A 

beer brewed with New Jersey–grown 

tomatoes and blueberries. 

Polacheck admits there are hits and 

misses, but that’s the beauty of it. “If 

something doesn’t work, we’re not fl ushing 

100 barrels of it,” he says. “It’s only a 

gallon! It will literally go down our drain 

in no time and be gone.” —BRET STETKA 


THE WORLD || Dispatches 

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND 

More Than Words 

REVISING THE LITERARY HAPPENING 

On a small stage in Edinburgh’s Forest Café, Colin 

Herd is attempting to growl. A soft-spoken Scot 

with the look of a college professor, he forces a 

breath into the microphone. He errs, laughs. Sitting 

at one of many tables covered with plastic cups and 

wine bottles, a spectator yells, “You can do it!” Herd 

is reading his poem titled “How to Growl: Starter 

Techniques,” and it culminates in a “ye-owl!!” 

The occasion for this strange bit of performance 

is the Golden Hour, a monthly “literary cabaret” that 

reimagines the literary event with live music and 

cartoons interspersed between poetry and prose 

performances. It’s hosted by Ryan Van Winkle, the 

American poet who launched it in 2006, and who 

hopes to expand it and take it on the road next year. 

Tonight’s roster also features Newcastle’s Degna 

Stone, who performs poems about divorce and illness, and Amy Burns, an Alabama native with a tale about going 

on a journey with her novel’s main character. An hour after Herd’s performance, a one-man electro-dance act 

called BenOffi cial appears onstage in a hooded rainbow bodysuit. Later, Olivia Salazar’s Spanish-Scottish accent 

enhances a few a cappella songs. The fi nal act is local darling Portnawak & the Woo, a folky, genre-busting band. 

“It feels like you’ve gone round to somebody’s house,” says regular Morag Edward, “somebody who’s popular 

and who’s got interesting friends.” The atmosphere is by turns convivial, arresting and, occasionally, messy: One 

slightly out-of-hand night ended with everyone being blasted with fi re extinguisher foam. 

This performance, however, ends with a dance party. The musicians, writers and audience get sweatier, the fl oor 

cozier and its boards shakier until, near midnight, the growling ceases and the band calls it quits. —COURTNEY BALESTIER 

THIS MONTH CALENDAR OF WORLDLY EVENTS 

NEW YORK 

NOVEMBER 9–13 

The Big Apple becomes a laugh 

riot as the New York Comedy 

Festival brings headliners Louis 

C.K., Ricky Gervais and Sarah 

Silverman to the city’s best 

theaters. nycomedyfestival.com 


SYDNEY 

NOVEMBER 11 

The Sydney Opera House’s 

Concert Hall is a fi ttingly sublime 

venue for “Way to Blue: The 

Songs of Nick Drake,” a starstudded 

tribute to the British folk 

hero. sydneyoperahouse.com 

PHOENIX 

OPENS NOVEMBER 19 

Want a new look? The exhibit 

“Native American Bolo Ties: 

Vintage and Contemporary” at 

the Heard Museum might inspire 

you to give Arizona’s distinctive 

neckwear a try. heard.org 

MONTSERRAT 

NOVEMBER 26 

You might be losing steam, but 

the live volcano you’re running 

past should be just the motivation 

you need to keep going during 

the strenuous Volcano Half- 

Marathon. volcanorunner.com 

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THE WORLD || Disp Dispatches spat at a ch ches es 


NASHVILLE, TENN. 

Country Home 

WITH HER NEW ALBUM, KRISTIN 

CHENOWETH GOES BACK TO HER ROOTS 

Fresh off a workout at the Hutton Hotel in 

Nashville, Kristin Chenoweth is wearing black 

yoga pants and a gray sweatshirt over her lean 

(and improbably tiny) frame. Her face is fl ushed, 

shining and, at 43—without much makeup at 

all—fl awless. 

She’s in town to perform at the annual CMA 

Music Festival. With the fall release of her fi rst 

country music record, Some Lessons Learned, the 

coloratura soprano and Broadway star has set off 

down a path that will bring her a li le closer to 

her Oklahoma roots. “I always wanted to make a 

country album, but I was afraid. I didn’t know if 

people would accept it,” she says. 

For all her anxiety, Chenoweth comes by country 

as honestly as any newly minted Music Row 

talent. She started out singing in church, and at 

the age of 19 chased her radio-dial dreams to 

Nashville’s now-defunct Opryland USA 

theme park, where she performed as 

a singer and dancer. 

Now, a er a blockbuster run on 

Broadway that included a Tonynominated 

turn in Wicked, as 

well as an Emmy-nominated 

cameo on “Glee,” she’s 

returned to Nashville— 

closer to country music’s 

beating heart and closer to family—thanks to an 

album that began as li le more than a clause she 

insisted on in her contract with Sony Masterworks. 

And this might not be any old stop on a tour. 

Like Nicole Kidman before her, Chenoweth is 

thinking about moving here. Music City could be 

the perfect home for this Oklahoman, who has 

for years split her time between New York and 

L.A. “It feels right,” she says. “It feels welcoming.” 

A er a brief but nonetheless learned discussion 

about regional barbecue, it’s time to go. 

Chenoweth steps out of the lobby, strides over to a 

modest midsize sedan and drives off , all the while 

looking right at home. —BRANTLEY HARGROVE 

JEREMY COWART

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STAY 

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The Ritz-Carlton, 

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THE WORLD || Stay 

THERE’S GENERALLY one in every ski party: 

the knock-kneed neophyte whose enthusiasm 

outstrips his ability, whose signature 

move turns out to be the Cla ering Cartwheel, 

a rapid descent that elicits gasps, 

groans and sometimes screams from 

onlookers. Luckily, the top ski resorts off er 

a variety of amenities that allow the most 

hapless among us to enjoy pristine winter 

wonderlands without risking injury or 

embarrassment. 

Everyone knows you can’t have a ski 

vacation—whether or not you actually 

ski—without hot tubs. The Ritz-Carlton, 

Bachelor Gulch, on the slopes of the 

Colorado Rockies, takes this principle very 

seriously. In addition to its oversize lazyriver 

hot tub (located in an atmospheric 

gro o), there are copper tubs, stargazing 

tubs, a heated outdoor pool and a “Roaring 

Rapids” hydrotherapy massage, all of 


... OR NOT TO SKI Clockwise from top left, the White Turf horse race in St. Moritz, Switzerland; the Clubhouse 

at Spanish Peaks in Big Sky, Mont.; the front entrance of the Waldorf Astoria in Park City, Utah 

There are copper tubs, stargazing tubs, 

a heated outdoor pool and a “Roaring 

Rapids” hydrotherapy massage, all of 

which combine to perish even the most 

fl eeting thought of ice. 

which combine to perish even the most 

fl eeting thought of ice. 

Also in Colorado, the town of Breckenridge 

has no shortage of ways to divert you 

from the expansive mountain playground 

that looms above. There’s a lively bar scene 

(try the margaritas at Mexican eatery Mi 

Casa), top-notch dining (don’t miss chefowner 

Matt Fackler’s Colorado-inspired 

cuisine at Relish) and lots of outdoor fun 

to be had (dogsledding, anyone?). 

But all that is moot, really, because you 

won’t actually need to leave the luxurious 

One Ski Hill Place (which is, incidentally, 

ski-in/ski-out). There’s a new bar (the 

T-Bar), two movie lounges, a game room, an 

aquatics center at the spa and—get this—a 

two-lane bowling alley made to look like a

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THE WORLD || Stay 

HOT SPOT Japan’s Joshinetsu Kogen National Park may play host to 100-plus hotels and 21 ski areas, but not everyone here is 

interested in hitting the slopes—some, like the local snow monkeys, prefer to spend all day at the spa 

mine sha . There’s also a bustling outdoor 

deck that’s the perfect se ing in which to 

tell your weary friends all about the funfi 

lled day you just had not endangering 

yourself and others by tumbling down 

the slopes. 

Meanwhile, the stately Waldorf Astoria 

in Park City, Utah, has enough rustic trappings 

to make you feel outdoorsy without 

having to venture outdoors. Sink into a 

plush fi reside sofa with a psychological 

thriller and a hot toddy. Try a yam-andpumpkin 

enzyme peel at the resort’s 

Golden Door spa. Then direct your glowing 

face at a pla er of fried dough—the 

beignets at the restaurant here are second 

only to those in New Orleans. If you do 

want to head outdoors, this year the hotel 

installed a “high-speed advanced zip line 

circuit” that stretches more than 2,100 feet 

and off ers a treetop ride across a canyon. 


At Spanish Peaks in Big Sky, Mont., the 

slopes can feel like an a erthought. This 

is especially true during warmer months, 

when the place abounds with outdoor 

activities, particularly golf, but Spanish 

Peaks is also no slouch when it comes to 

wintertime fun. Have a horse-drawn sleigh 

take you to dinner or, for the ultimate in 

relaxation, have the kids demonstrate 

what they learned in the resort’s “Kids 

in the Kitchen” program. In case that 

doesn’t work out the way you hoped, the 

Clubhouse has excellent Alpine cuisine (as 

well as a 1,300-bo le wine cellar). 

In Vermont, the Topnotch Resort and 

Spa recognizes that the secret to any successful 

getaway is keeping the “li le people” 

happy. There’s a Wii-equipped teen center, a 

tennis academy and a funky hair salon, plus 

board games, pool tables, pingpong and fi reside 

s’mores. The resort’s Bu ertub Bistro 

offers enough sweet cocktails to ensure 

that the big people can’t complain either. 

The U.S. doesn’t hold a monopoly on 

the lazy ski trip, of course. In addition to 

the many outlandish a ractions that St. 

Moritz, the Swiss winter playground of 

Europe’s elite, has to off er—including the 

White Turf, a horse race on a frozen lake— 

there’s Badru ’s Palace Hotel, which oozes 

old-time romanticism. Its King’s Club, Switzerland’s 

oldest discotheque, has catered 

to actual royalty. If you absolutely demand 

the sensation of crisp mountain air being 

blasted into your nostrils, the Haus am 

Bach in Ramsau am Dachstein, Austria, 

has rides on an Alpine roller coaster. And 

the Shiga Kogen resort, with more than 100 

hotels in Japan’s Joshinetsu Kogen National 

Park, invites guests to join the snow monkeys 

frolicking in local hot springs—with 

nary a ski boot nor snowboard to be seen.

BAY OF BISCAY 

ISLA DE 

SANTA CLARA 

ONDARRETA 

MADRID 

Flexible 

Flyer 

Porsche’s split-personality touring 

sedan takes San Sebastián 


SPAIN 

BY STEPHAN TALTY 

ROAD TRIP 

LA CONCHA 

AQUARIUM DE SAN 

SEBASTIÁN 

PLAYA DE LA CONCHA 

PARTE VIEJA 

(OLD TOWN) / 

PLAZA DE LA 

CONSTITUCIÓN 

SAN 

SEBASTIÁN 

CATEDRAL DEL 

BUEN PASTOR 

SAN SEBASTIÁN 

MY FIRST OBJECTIVE in driving a Porsche from Madrid to San Sebastián 

wasn’t to experience German engineering at its fi nest or to lay 

tracks at 200 mph with the wind blowing my hair straight back. 

It was to impress our doorman, Antonio. As we were free-spirited 

Americans living in the o en-formal Spanish capital, our casual 

style and rowdy children had given Antonio doubts as to whether we 

belonged in his bu oned-down building. I had the idea that gliding 

up in a white, outrageously gorgeous Panamera, Porsche’s touring 

car, might change all that. In America, the Panamera would look big. 

In Spain, a country of pocket-sized cars, it looked like the Concorde 

redesigned by Gaudí. 

A er I pulled around the block three times, then parked, Antonio 

came running over, eyes wide. 

“Muy bonita, Señor Talty. Es está su coche?” 

“Sí, Antonio.” 

First objective met. Once the car was loaded with two children and 

a wife, I got to judge it not as a symbol, but as an automobile. And 

from the fi rst mile, it killed. Driving it actually did feel like piloting 

a Concorde, giving the sensation of fl oating through space while 

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THE WORLD || Road Trip 

enclosed in rich leather and audiophile 

sound. Which isn’t to say it can’t still mash 

some pavement—just engage the sport 

suspension and the car seems to suction 

itself to the road. 

As I piloted it farther north, the barren 

landscape around Madrid gave way to 

a vista of white-foamed seas on our le 

and dramatic rock slopes angling down 

on our right. The highway signs suddenly 

changed to Basque. Then, as we came out 

of a dark tunnel, San Sebastián popped 

glamorously into view on our le . 

If you’re looking for the ideal European 

seaside town, San Sebastián has things 

that glossy Monte Carlo or even the seriously 

nautical Santander, down the coast, 

just can’t match. It has the stunning natural 

gem of its bay, La Concha, lined with 

open-air seafood restaurants and tony 

shops. But there’s real grit here, too: When 

we parked the Panamera and strolled 

2012 PORSCHE 

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The bells and whistles 

toward the world-class aquarium, a huge 

fi shing trawler glided up, just yards away. 

The ship’s crane li ed gli ering trays of 

mackerel onto the dock, where they were 

quickly wheeled away. San Sebastián isn’t 

like some Potemkin summer village. It’s 

real. It works. It sweats and dances. 

Starting Price: Performance: Perks: The sea seamless 

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The Panamera seven-speed PDK 

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features an elegantly 

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It’s both a smooth 

family sedan 

when you want to 

haul everyone to 

the beach, and a 

transmission lets you 

go from manual to 

automatic in a split 

second, while the 

walnut dashboard 

and creamy leather 

make you feel like 

rip-snorting German Gatsby motoring his 

racer that’s heavier way out to East Egg 

than the 911 but just 

as ferocious. 

(hastily). 


BASQUE AWHILE Off ering sheltered, sparkling-clear water in its bay and prime sunbathing on its 

beaches, San Sebastián has long been a lure for visitors to Spain’s Basque country 

We reboarded the Panamera and I 

guided it toward the old town, Parte Vieja. 

Traveling over cobblestone streets that 

refl ected a thousand years of love and war, 

we passed by the Gothic spire of the soaring 

Catedral del Buen Pastor San Sebastián 

and ended up at Plaza de la Constitución, 

the heart of the city, full of amorous locals 

evaluating the new crop of tourists. In 

past centuries this stone courtyard was 

a bullring; Spaniards would rent rooms 

in the surrounding hotels and hang over 

balconies to watch toreadors. And, in true 

Spanish fashion, criticize their work. 

As the sun burned in the sky, I steered 

the Panamera toward the water. The 

beaches of San Sebastián—from the 

people-watching Playa de la Concha to 

the quieter Ondarreta—are big and broad. 

We chose Ondarreta for the castle-making 

consistency of its sand, and from our 

beach towels watched sailboats glint in the 

sparkling water. Two men in black wetsuits 

holding spearguns emerged, dripping, out 

of the bay and marched casually down the 

beach, joining the socialites in their Chanel 

bikinis. Nobody ba ed an eye. 

Night fell, and the sunbathers streamed 

up the stone ramps, away from the beach, 

and San Sebastián slowly turned into a 

diamond necklace. Lights appeared all 

along the harbor, a loop of white sparks 

in the black night. We strolled the 

boardwalk, and did as the Spaniards do: 

gossiped, bar-hopped and picked freshly 

made tapas from their silver pla ers. The 

Panamera may be German, but it delivered 

us to Spain at its most Spanish: San 

Sebastián at dusk, swarming with those 

who eat life. 

Before leaving Madrid for New York, 

STEPHAN TALTY relished his new status in 

the eyes of his doorman.

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HAMBURG 

Lean Cuisine 

A historic—and famously slanted—eatery 

on Hamburg’s waterfront gives diners a taste of 

the city’s culinary heritage BY JIFFER BOURGUIGNON 

AMONG THE CONSTRUCTION sites and dockyards of Hamburg’s waterfront, the Oberhafen-Kantine 

crouches under a set of elevated train tracks, sinking noticeably into the ground. Inside, diners 

steady themselves in creaking wooden booths and dig into dishes of venerable culinary reputation, 

such as labskaus, a traditional seaman’s meal made of corned beef, red beets, pickled herring and 

potatoes and topped with a fried egg. Labskaus may lack a certain visual appeal, Kantine cook 

Stefan Classen admits, but the hearty hash with the subtly fi shy tang is sought out by those looking 

for “a true taste of the Hamburg harbor.” And you’d be hard-pressed to fi nd a more suitable se ing 


FOOD & DRINK 

THOMAS SCHWEIGERT

THE WORLD || Food & Drink 

KIN-DO SPIRIT 

Anita Haendel, 

who helped 

her father run 

the Oberhafen- 

Kantine 

than the Kantine in 

which to give it a try. 

The Oberhafen- 

Kantine opened its 

doors in 1925 on the 

banks of the Elbe 

River, in what was then 

Hamburg’s industrial 

shipping port, joining 

other canteens serving 

coffee and beef 

patties, or frikadellen, 

the quintessential 

dockworker’s breakfast 

(believed to be 

the inspiration for 

the modern American 

hamburger). In the 

early days, the friendly 

face behind the counter was Anita Haendel, 

the 12-year-old daughter of owner Hermann 

Sparr. She quickly became the heart 

and soul of the Kantine, and worked there 

until she died in 1997 at the age of 83. 

The Kantine’s now-trademark tilt is the 

result of 86 years of wear and tear, including 

wartime carpet bombings, railroad 

construction and regular floods. Today, 

the building that houses it is one of the 

few original structures left in an area 

recently dubbed HafenCity, the site of a 

major redevelopment eff ort that will bring 

glossy hotels and offi ce buildings to the 

once-scrappy industrial zone. 

Preserving the physical structure and 

the culinary traditions of the Kantine is 

a top priority for restaurateurs Tim Seidel 

and Sebastian Libbert, the duo behind 

some of Hamburg’s hippest eateries, who 

took over from former chef-owner Thorsten 

Gillert earlier this year. In addition to 

the labskaus and frikadellen, the Kantine 

will continue to feature such classic Hamburg 

staples as eel soup; matjes, soused 

North Sea herring served with onions 

and pickles; pan-fried scholle, white fi sh 

accompanied by sliced potatoes fried 

with cured pork; and weisswurst made 

from herring. 

While Seidel and Libbert did convert 

the former customs offi ce building next 

door into an open space, dubbed Zollamt, 

for exhibitions showcasing the work 

of young Hamburg artists, not much 

will change with the Kantine itself. “We 

didn’t want to make it chic, like our other 

restaurants,” Seidel says. “Blemishes 

add character.” 


HOT LINKS One of 

Curry Queen’s inventive 

takes on the Indian- 

German fl avor mash-up 

known as currywurst 

Have It Your Way 

Curry Queen lets Germans dial up the spice 

GERMANY’S FAVORITE fast food, currywurst, is synonymous with grab ’n’ go. 

So when Curry Queen’s lamb, bison and kobe-style beef sausages dressed in 

a choice of eight curries—all created by former Michelin-starred chef Ingo 

Holland—showed up in the esteemed Gault Millau culinary guide last year, 

foodies’ tongues started wagging. 

Whether or not critics agreed with the inclusion, the 3-year-old restaurant, 

which has a deli outpost elsewhere in Hamburg and a university cafeteria 

in Karlsruhe, has certainly spiced things up on the German culinary scene. 

Its curries ascend from the mild “Purple Curry,” a violet-colored mix of 

hibiscus, cardamom, cumin and cinnamon; to the “Curry Mumbai,” with 

jasmine, vanilla and orange peel; to the “Curry Anapurna,” a ho er off ering 

with garlic and turmeric. 

At the very top of the piquancy scale, however, is the notorious “King Chili 

Killer,” a dish so hot that the elderly and anyone younger than 18 are strongly 

advised against ordering it. Made with the bhut jolokia, an Indian pepper 

considered one of the ho est in the world, this concoction sent Curry Queen 

owner and head chef Sascha Basler out dancing in the streets the fi rst time 

he tried it. He’s probably not the only one, either. “You can tell what kind of 

curry diners have ordered by the mood at the table,” he says. “The spicier the 

chili, the more animated the customer!”

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DUBAI 

A Line in 

the Sand 

As if building the world’s tallest 

skyscraper weren’t enough, 

Dubai will soon add the tallest, 

longest, widest arch bridge on 

earth to its list of superlatives. 

Slated to open in 2015, the 

Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Crossing 

will encompass a 12-lane 

highway, a light rail line and a 

pedestrian walkway, all while 

being anchored in shi ing desert 

sands. Here’s how they’ll do it. 


ILLUSTRATION BY PETER AND MARIA HOEY 

2 

1 

HOW IT’S DONE 

667 meters 

1 The architects FXFowle 

initially conceived the bridge 

with the taller of the two arches 

off -center, mirroring Arabic 

calligraphy, but engineers 

were concerned that the shape 

would put undue stress on the 

arch (and an already unstable 

junction of bridge and sand). To 

fi x it, they moved the taller arch 

slightly back toward the center 

and added large foundations at 

each end. 

2 “You typically build arch 

bridges where there’s rock,” 

notes Parsons Corp. manager 

Ken Serzan, “because there’s 

a huge force at both ends that 

has to be transferred to the 

ground.” But in Dubai there 

is only sand, and under that, 

crumbly sandstone. To build 

a bridge on such precarious 

terrain, Parsons’ engineers plan 

to sink a series of 2-meter-wide 

concrete pylons along the 

length of the span. 

3 Around the time of the 

bridge proposal, another fi rm 

was designing an iconic opera 

house (think Sydney) on a 

nearby island. Early plans for 

the bridge would have resulted 

in its blocking views of this 

structure, so FXFowle proposed 

a solution: Why not build the 

bridge so that it would frame, 

even accentuate, the opera 

house? Problem solved. 

560 meters 

OPERA ISLAND 

3 


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ARTS MEDIA MARKETPLACE 

THE 

BIG 

TEN 

EXHIBIT 

Haute Topic 

Following on the 

success of the 

Metropolitan 

Museum of Art’s 

Alexander McQueen 

retrospective, the 

Dallas Museum 

of Art is hosting a 

traveling exhibition 

of haute couture 

created over the past 

40 years by fashion’s 

resident pop-culture 

interpreter (and 

outfi er) Jean 

Paul Gaultier. The 

designer, for his part, 

is both surprised 

and fl a ered that 

he’s being featured. 

“I didn’t think I was 

that old,” he says, 

“but I am taking it 

as a compliment.” 

NOVEMBER 13 


2 

culture || The Big Ten 

PRINT 

ACTIVE 

VOICE 

Winner of the 

National Book 

Award for 1989’s 

Spartina, John Casey ey 

isn’t the type to rest st 

on his laurels—or 

anywhere else, for 

that matter. His new w 

memoir, Room for 

Improvement: Notes s 

on a Dozen Lifelong 

Sports, describes 

more than half a cenentury of adventures 

and exertions: 

long-distance running, 

cross-country y 

skiing, rowing and 

more. Fortunately, 

Casey paces his 

book’s insights at 

a restful meander. 

NOVEMBER 8 


MULTIMEDIA 

OUT OF THIS WORLD 

America’s oldest planetarium is hardly 

showing its age. Having recently unveiled 

a $14 million revamp of its theater, 

Chicago’s Adler Planetarium is fl aunting 

all the cu ing-edge technology therein 

with its new “Deep Space Adventure”— 

a dazzling multimedia simulation of 

interstellar travel that provides a frontrow 

seat to the drama of the universe. 

Spoiler alert: Galaxies collide. ONGOING 

TV 

WESTWARD 

EXPANSION 

After AMC knocked the 

zombie genre out of the 

park with “The Walking 

Dead,” it was only a 

matter of time before 

the network tackled 

the Western. “Hell on 

Wheels” is the gritty tale 

of a former Confederate 

soldier out for revenge. 

NOVEMBER 6 

4 

5 

THEATER 

FAMILY FEUD 

In the Broadway-bound 

indie hit Other Desert 

Cities, starring Rachel 

Griffi ths (“Six Feet 

Under”), a family learns 

at Christmas that 

everyone’s dirty laundry 

is about to be aired 

in a memoir. As if the 

holidays weren’t enough 

of a production already. 

NOVEMBER 3 

FILM 

Puppet Love 

Once again, practically every working 

actor in Hollywood—including 

Jason Segel, Amy Adams and Chris 

Cooper—has signed up to get their 

scenes stolen by the world’s most 

beloved gang of puppets, in the 

eagerly awaited The Muppets. This 

time around, our fuzzy friends are 

on a quest to save their old movie 

studio from a greedy oil tycoon. 

NOVEMBER 23 

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ARCHITECTURE 

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Slicing through a 19th-century façade 

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anticipated new wing at the Military 

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fi nally opened last month. While generally 

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PRINT 

BLUE PERIOD 

One of America’s greatest est 

living writers and cultural al 

critics, Joan Didion fi rst 

made her name with the e 

essay “Goodbye to All That,” 

fi lled with coolly penetrating ating 

insights on youth. Now, 

following her 2005 memoir, moir, 

The Year of Magical Thinking, king, 

she off ers Blue Nights, a 

haunting meditation on 

family, loss and, especially, ally, 

aging—an inevitability 

she can’t quite accept. 

NOVEMBER 1 


PHERESMAGAZINE.COM COM C COM C COM C 

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FILM 

Method Men 

David Cronenberg, no stranger to bizarre psychological drama, goes 

straight to the source with A Dangerous Method, which examines the 

relationships between Carl Jung (Michael Fassbender), Sigmund Freud 

(Viggo Mortensen, in his third Cronenberg fi lm) and Sabina Spielrein 

(Keira Knightley), a troubled Russian patient who becomes Jung’s 

mistress. NOVEMBER 23 

10 

MUSIC 

Walk on the Wild Side 

For Lulu, one of the most surprising collaborations of the year, 

if not ever, Lou Reed joined forces with Metallica to record songs 

wri en for avant-garde theater director Robert Wilson. The project 

came together a er the metalheads backed Reed at a concert. “We 

were made for each other,” Reed says. NOVEMBER 1

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News (in a) Flash 

TMI? Four amazing next-generation newsreaders make it easier than ever 

to cope with information overload BY TOM SAMILJAN 

EVEN BEFORE THE days of tweets, Facebook 

links and iPhone notifi cations, I was 

addicted to news. Yet despite my absorbing 

fi ve daily newspapers and the “Today” 

show every morning, it was manageable. 

Today, it’s nearly impossible to keep up— 

especially now that I have 50-plus feeds 

inundating my Google Reader. 

Fortunately, spurred by the iPad’s 

navigability combined with 24/7 Internet 

connectivity, a new generation of newsreaders 

has emerged, each promising to 

fi lter out the noise and serve up exactly 

what I want. 

Flipboard grabs pictures and text from 

articles and displays them in a variety of 

magazine-style layouts, complete with a 

mix of fonts, sidebars and picture shapes 

and sizes. You can choose from curated 

feeds, ranging from food and travel to 

celebrity gossip and sports, or select 

feeds à la carte or import them from your 

Google Reader account. Flipboard is also 

an ideal way to view Twitter and Facebook 

feeds, turning a humdrum stream 

of link-laden updates into pages with 

newspaper-style layouts, in which each 

tech 

“article” is devoted to a news link shared 

by your friends. Downside: It works only 

on Apple platforms. 

Scrollers, which feature stacks of pictureand-headline 

feeds grouped according 

to individual media outlets or subjects, can 

be easily browsed by swiping from side 

to side, making it a cinch to scan dozens 

of stories quickly. The two best scrollers, 

Pulse and Taptu, work on all Android and 

iOS devices. Pulse lets users create up to 

fi ve pages of 12 feeds stacked on top of one 

another, which is handy for separating 

diff erent areas of interest. Taptu, on the 

other hand, opts for a limitless stack of 

side-scrolling feeds (which I prefer, since 

it satisfi es my need to dive head-fi rst into 

information overload). It won’t necessarily 

help you fi lter information, but it does 

allow you to take big bites quickly. 

Then there’s News 360. What it lacks 

in gloss it more than makes up for in 

innovation. When you link your Facebook, 

Twitter, Instapaper, Read It Later and 

Evernote accounts, News 360 will learn to 

unearth stories it thinks you might like. 

Users can click on a subject category in the 

le rail, and then scroll through an infi nite 

list of the latest topic-specifi c headlines. 

At the top of each story page, News 360 

inserts a list of links to every other media 

outlet’s version of the same story, while 

signifi cant terms, names and other words 

are automatically hyperlinked to pop-up 

defi nitions. Plus, it remembers your settings 

across platforms, so the experience 

and story list will look the same whether 

you’re viewing it on an iPhone, iPad, 

Android phone, Android tablet, Windows 

Phone 7 device or your PC’s web browser. 

Which of these will actually help fi nd 

what you want amid today’s ceaseless 

information barrage? Well, if you’re looking 

for a be er way to read Facebook and 

Twi er feeds, then Flipboard it is; if you 

spend as much time on your smartphone 

as on your computer, try News 360; and if 

you’re an info hound who still wants a bit 

of serendipity, you’ll likely get the most 

from Taptu. 

After several weeks of news-hounding, tech 

writer TOM SAMILJAN can’t wait to get back 

to reading his novel (via e-reader). 

56 NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM ILLUSTRATION BY GLUEKIT

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bright ideas 

Head 

in the 

Cloud 

At 29, Jeff Hammerbacher 

has been a pitcher, a poet, an 

autoworker, an investment 

banker and a Facebook 

wunderkind who walked 

away from a fortune. His 

next project? Curing cancer. 

BY PETER COHAN 

JEFF HAMMERBACHER is a man of 

varied interests. The son of an auto 

assembly-line worker from Kalamazoo, 

Mich., the 29-year-old has 

tried his hand at poetry, philosophy, 

psychology, venture capital, baseball 

and, yes, automaking. He began his 

academic career as an English major, 

but ended up graduating from Harvard 

with a degree in mathematics. 

As a teen he’d been a star pitcher and 

looked set for a career in the major 

leagues; he ended up working as an 

analyst at Bear Stearns. You could 

call him hopelessly sca ered, or you 

could say he’s a genius. Frankly, it’s a 

tough call. 

In 2006, with his stint at Bear 

Stearns but a memory, Hammerbacher 

was hired by Facebook 

founder Mark Zuckerberg (fi ingly, 

in a friend-of-a-friend scenario), 

and developed a wondrously efficient 

system to handle the massive 

amounts of data coursing through 

the website. Not only was Hammerbacher 

fast becoming an important 

player in the rarefi ed world of Silicon 

Valley, but he was also on his way to 

becoming very well-off . 

Then, in 2008, he chucked it all. 


culture || Bright Ideas 

Speaking from his Palo Alto office 

recently, Hammerbacher seems at a loss 

to explain his decision to quit Facebook 

(currently valued at upward of $100 billion). 

“To be honest, I didn’t run through 

any real calculus,” he says. “I just felt like 

it was time for something new.” 

Qui ing, he jokes, was “an egregious act 

of wealth destruction,” but he had faith in 

himself—and as it turned out, the move 

did little to diminish his reputation in 

IF YOU CAN TELL A HALF- 

BILLION SOCIAL NETWORKERS 

WHICH CELEBRITY THEY MOST 

OR LEAST RESEMBLE, MAYBE 

YOU CAN DO SIMILAR THINGS 

WITH CANCEROUS CELLS. 

the industry. Itamar Rosenn, a symbolicsystems 

analyst, calls Hammerbacher 

“scary-smart, a maverick, individualistic, 

dynamic and a sponge when it comes to 

new ideas. His interests evolve quickly.” 

Shortly a er leaving Facebook, Hammerbacher 

joined one of Silicon Valley’s 

top venture capital fi rms as an “entrepreneur 

in residence.” A month later, he quit. 

His mother, who had once shooed him out 

of a Michigan auto plant and back to Cambridge 

a er he’d dropped out of Harvard, 

couldn’t have been happy. He was starting 

to look like a man whose interests evolve 

maybe a li le too quickly. 

But he had a plan. In sifting through 

the trillions of bits of data that had 

threatened to overwhelm Facebook on 

a daily basis, he’d adopted a baby-steps 

ABOUT-FACE 

Four other restless 

brainiacs who quit 

Facebook 

Contrary to what 

you might expect, 

Facebook’s staggering 

market value 

and cultural icon 

status have not equaled 

employee retention. In 

recent years, many of 

its most veteran (and 

vested) employees 

have gone off to pursue 

new things. Here are 

just a few. 

CHRIS HUGHES 

After cofounding 

Facebook as a Harvard 

student, Hughes left in 

2007 to oversee social 

media strategy for the 

Obama campaign. Then, 

in 2010, he started 

Jumo, an “online platform 

to connect [those] 

working to change 

the world.” 


strategy, breaking impossible tasks into 

ever-smaller parts until each one became 

relatively simple. The same approach, he 

realized, could be applied to everything 

from telecoms to biotech to fi nancial services. 

So, with newfound focus, he founded 

a company of his own: Cloudera. 

Before long, Hammerbacher teamed 

up with another digital high-fl yer, Doug 

Cu ing, who’d developed data processing 

so ware called Hadoop, which provided the 

platform Cloudera needed to 

operate. The company has since 

a racted $36 million in venture 

capital, and its founder is again 

on course for dot-com riches. 

You’d assume, then, that this 

means he’ll be out within the 

month. But this project is different. 

While Hammerbacher 

is loath to portray himself as 

some sort of modern-day Marie Curie—he 

refuses to even comment on this aspect 

of his business—his talents are currently 

being applied to one of the greatest puzzles 

of human existence. The basic idea being 

this: If you can tell a half-billion social 

networkers which celebrity they most or 

least resemble, maybe you can do similar 

things with cancerous cells. 

To simplify it a bit, let’s say you’re asked 

to compare two 100-link chains and fi nd 

the single link that diff ers between them. 

You could compare the two chains one link 

at a time and fi nd that the 98th one diff ers 

(the serial approach), or you could cut the 

two chains into 10-link pairs, and give a 

pair to each of 10 people to search for the 

link that diff ers—all at the same time (the 

parallel approach). 

DUSTIN MOSKOVITZ 

Another Facebook 

cofounder, Moskovitz 

left in 2008 to launch 

his own software fi rm, 

Asana, meant to be 

“to your work life what 

Facebook is to your 

social life.” He took 

Justin Rosenstein, a 

top Facebook engineer/ 

evangelist, with him. 

Cloudera uses the parallel approach to 

help cancer researchers fi nd mutant proteins. 

The system breaks long DNA chains 

into chunks that it sends to small computers 

(instead of expensive and cumbersome 

supercomputers) that compare the smaller 

strands. As a result, researchers can fi nd 

the needle of mutant protein pairs in a haystack 

of normal ones much faster. And that 

can help them come up with be er tools 

to diagnose and, ultimately, treat cancer. 

For Hammerbacher, the wandering 

polymath, Cloudera has provided focus at 

long last—a mission. He quips, echoing the 

poet Allen Ginsberg, that “the best minds 

of my generation are thinking about how 

to make people click ads.” Chasing a cure 

for cancer, as it happens, may be just the 

thing to fi nally hold his a ention. 

PETER COHAN, president of Peter S. Cohan & 

Associates, is a former runner-up for the New 

England Poetry Prize (and a terrible pitcher). 

RUCHI SANGHVI 

Hired in 2005, 

Facebook’s fi rst female 

engineer was key in 

rolling out the site’s 

news feed—a hugely 

controversial feature at 

the outset, with much 

of the ire directed at 

Sanghvi. She left last year 

to become a freelance 

adviser and investor. 

NOVEMBER CROSSWORD ANSWERS 

CHRIS PUTNAM 

By pulling off a series of 

playful Facebook hacks, 

Putnam got more than 

the fi rm’s attention—he 

got a job as a software 

engineer. After creating 

Face book Chat and 

Facebook Video, though, 

he left last year, and has 

yet to reveal his next act. 

SEONGJOON CHO/BLOOMBERG/GETTY IMAGES (HUGHES), KIMBERLY WHITE/GETTY IMAGES (MOSKOVITZ), JAMES DUNCAN DAVIDSON/FLICKR (SANGHVI), TOSHIHITO KOBAYASHI (PUTNAM)

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THE HEMI Q&A 

Bill Cosby 

More than 20 albums, a dozen books and countless accolades have established him as bona fi de 

comedy royalty. With another book on the way, The Cos looks back on his early inspirations, 

his Philly childhood and one unfortunate mishap involving a whole lot of cologne. 

BY DAVID CARR 

ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER 

71

A GOOD COS 

From left, Bill 

Cosby at Temple 

University’s commencement 

this 

year; working it 

onstage at Radio 

City in 1986 

ENTERTAINMENT FIGURES, generally speaking, 

have problems with punctuality. Not 

so Bill Cosby. Two minutes before we were 

scheduled to call him about his new book, 

the phone rang. But what was expected to 

be a publicist apologetically postponing the 

interview turned out to be The Cos himself, 

announcing, in his best voice-of-God intonation, “You. Have. 

Two. Minutes. To. Call. Cosby.” 

Thus prompted, we dove right into I Didn’t Ask to Be Born 

(But I’m Glad I Was), Cosby’s new book, out this month. 

It would take a separate book just to enumerate the man’s 

accomplishments, but suffi ce it to say Cosby has led a full 

life. A er ge ing his start in standup, he broke through as 

the fi rst African-American co-star of a television series in “I 

Spy,” winning three consecutive Emmys. “Fat Albert and the 

Cosby Kids,” which Cosby created and produced, animated 

tales from his upbringing in Philadelphia and won an Emmy 

as well. His television work culminated in “The Cosby Show,” a 

sitcom that set aside racial stereotypes and found the comedy 

common to all families. The Huxtables and their day-to-day 

triumphs and travails spawned many imitators, as well as a 

spinoff (“A Diff erent World”), and reigned as the No. 1 show 

for fi ve years in a row. In between all that, and a whole lot of 

Jell-O commercials, Cosby found time to make more than 

20 comedy albums and write a dozen books, many of which 

sprang from his live shows, which he continues to perform. 

Talking to Cosby, 74, is less a ma er of fi nding things to 

discuss than it is of struggling to keep up as he riff s in the 

manner of his jazz heroes. (Let’s just say that in the conceit 

of the Q&A, there was more A than Q.) But we fi gured a good 

place to start would be his ill-fated fi rst date, with the “fi ne” 

Bernade e Johnson, recounted in the book to great eff ect. 


THE HEMI Q&A: Bill Cosby 

HEMISPHERES: When you were getting ready for your 

date with Bernadette, you didn’t just splash on a little 

bit of cologne—you took the whole bottle, dumped it 

in the tub and soaked in it. 

COSBY: My dad had this bo le of Canoe that was 

unopened and I thought that’s what you did with it. 

HEMISPHERES: But that was the least of your 

problems. You also had to get past her dad, who made 

it clear that, should anything happen, he knew exactly 

where you lived. 

COSBY: Whether it was a father or a mother, when 

you went to visit a girl, you came to that gauntlet. It 

happened at my house as well. 

HEMISPHERES: The book is full of such vivid recollections 

of things that happened when you were a kid. Do 

you have some kind of superhuman memory? 

COSBY: When I started out, we didn’t have all the 

television and computers that we have now. What 

you saw is what you remembered. I developed a style 

early on: from the mind, to the page, to the stage and 

back to the page. That has not changed. I don’t think 

it has anything to do with photographic memory; I 

think it has to do with a kid who loved comedy and 

tried to remember it all and talk about it. 

HEMISPHERES: Why comedy? 

COSBY: Well, back then, if you were black and 

wanted to be in the entertainment business, 

GILBERT CARRASQUILLO/GETTY IMAGES (TEMPLE); BETTMANN/CORBIS (COSBY)

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Since 1974

you didn’t run away to the circus. So I 

began studying comedy, listening to Jack 

Benny. I knew I loved it, I knew I loved to 

laugh with these people, and I wanted to 

retain some of the things they said and 

somehow learn to do it myself. 

HEMISPHERES: But you ended up in the 

Navy before you got into comedy, right? 

COSBY: I didn’t join the Navy to see the 

world. I was just trying to get off my 

block. I was 19 and I had mismanaged 

my life to the point where all the guys I 

played basketball and baseball with, and 

crashed parties with, were gone. There 

was no one le except li le kids and old 

people, and I couldn’t play with either of 

them. The children complained that I was 

cheating when I played ball with them, 

and the old people just drank. I didn’t 

drink, so I went down and joined the 

Navy. I had no high school diploma, I was 

stuck in the 11th grade and, judging by the 

way I was studying, which is to say not 

at all, I was on track to graduate at about 

age 23. But I got my GED in the Navy, and 

when I got out I was accepted by Temple 

University, which made me feel like the 

luckiest 23-year-old in the world. 

HEMISPHERES: And college added 

literature to your bag of comedic tricks. 

COSBY: When you read Mark Twain, you 

begin to view books as something to be 

enjoyed, something you don’t have to just 

plow through. I was assigned a composition 

about doing something for the fi rst 

time, and I decided to write about the 

fi rst tooth I’d ever pulled. And that’s 

where my approach to humor started to 

come to me, the very close observation of 

things that I knew. It was a lot like radio 

in those days. Radio was like listening to 

books. My humor is like listening to “The 

Lone Ranger” on the radio. You have to 

guide the action by what you say. 

HEMISPHERES: The approach you 

ultimately hit on was pretty novel. It ended 

up infl uencing some of the greats who 

followed you. 

COSBY: I’m a comedian. There are some 

comedians who really don’t want to be 

known as just the guy who’s on the stage 

telling jokes; they want to be thought of 

as someone deeper than that. 


THE HEMI Q&A: Bill Cosby 

THEO! Cosby, playing Dr. Heathcliff Huxtable 

on “The Cosby Show,” is not buying it 

“ I saw a fellow talking to friends in a 

restaurant. He wasn’t performing, and 

people were just having a ball laughing. 

I said, ‘That’s what I want to be.’” 

HEMISPHERES: Like Chris Rock. 

COSBY: Or like Flip Wilson—Flip would 

come off the stage and he was almost 

insular. Richard Pryor would be off stage 

a er his stories and become very so 

and quiet. George Carlin was sort of 

humble in the same way. 

HEMISPHERES: What about Cosby? 

COSBY: I’m the same no ma er where 

I am. I have people meet me and say 

to me, “You’re the same as when you’re 

onstage. That’s really you up there.” 

HEMISPHERES: So, no persona? 

COSBY: I don’t want one. My performing 

style came to me when I saw a fellow 

talking to friends in a restaurant. He 

wasn’t performing, and people were just 

having a ball laughing with and at him. 

I said, “That’s what I want to be—I want 

to be a friend.” 

HEMISPHERES: In the book, you point out 

that your children are not your friends, 

because you can’t get rid of them. If they 

borrow money from you and they don’t 

pay you back, you can’t fi re them or tell 

them to go away. 

COSBY: That’s right. You are stuck with 

them and they are stuck with you. 

You’re all in the same lifeboat. You might 

as well work together. 

HEMISPHERES: I’ve always thought that 

the thing that made your stuff work so 

well through the years was this ability you 

have to make people see each other in a 

diff erent light. 

COSBY: I’ve had the Jackie Robinson 

role put on me, but I’m not a hero. The 

only thing I really adhere to from my 

learning is not to embarrass my race, 

to make a point of sounding educated 

and to respond to negative behavior 

toward my color. Other than that, my 

job is to come to your town and hurt 

your face. To make you laugh so much, 

your face hurts. 

As a kid, New York Times media columnist 

DAVID CARR used to walk around saying, 

“Hey, hey, hey!” like he meant it. 

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BY MICHAEL KAPLAN 


the fan 

ON A BEAUTIFUL SUNDAY AFTERNOON at Monmouth Park on the northern 

Jersey Shore, the be ing windows absorb a crush of horse racing fanatics while, 

down below, jockeys steer thoroughbreds toward their stalls at the starting 

gate. As post time nears for the day’s big race, the Resorts Haskell Invitational, 

a tension se les along the trackside seats, where pastel-suited owners and their 

posses sit, painfully aware of the fact that they have more on the line in the next 

two minutes than the rest of the be ors at the track combined. 

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owners is telling. Today’s winner also snags an automatic berth in the 

Breeders’ Cup Classic, which takes place this month and ranks among the world’s 

most prestigious races. A horse that fi nishes fi rst in the Breeders’ is instantly 

imbued with so much credibility and celebrity that his breeding revenues typically 

eclipse the race money, and the owner becomes, as one past winner put it, 

“the equivalent of a rock star.” That the 2011 Breeders’ Cup takes place at Churchill 

Downs in Louisville, Ky., sacred ground for horsemen, only adds to the cachet. 

The anticipation can be grueling. “I woke up nervous, and it’s ge ing more 

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and a horse to watch in today’s event. Hall looks racetrack-stunning in a pink 

dress and a strawberry shortcake of a hat wrapped up in a complex arrangement 

of ribbon. She has a full entourage of friends and family in tow. “If our horse 

fi nishes fi rst,” she says, eyeing the group, “I can only imagine what the winner’s 

circle will look like. All I can say is that Monmouth might need to bend the 

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culture || The Fan 

rules a li le bit in terms of how many 

people are allowed down there.” 

Besides Ruler on Ice, there are two 

horses competing today that have strong 

shots at acing the Haskell, according to 

insiders: Preakness Stakes champ Shackleford, 

and Coil, a horse that has won three 

out of the four races he’s run. At the Turf 

Club, a semiprivate enclave with an expansive 

buff et and full bar, Peter Rotondo, a 

retired foreign-exchange trader draped in 

seersucker and buried in a pile of heavily 

notated racing forms, announces, “I’m 

going with Ruler on Ice. He’s been training 

well. Monmouth is the track where 

he’s stabled. He likes this track and he has 

something of a home-court advantage.” 

Considering Rotondo’s record, it’s no 

surprise that his opinions have weight: 

He correctly picked Ruler on Ice to win at 

Belmont, and he called the last winner of 

the Kentucky Derby. “I’ve been handicapping 

since I was 8 years old,” he says. “And 

in the end you’re still making an educated 

guess. You’re reliant on a horse! He can’t tell 

you whether or not he has a headache and 

doesn’t feel like racing today!” 

THE BREEDERS’ CUP, which launched in 

1984, was not, as it happens, created solely 

out of love of the sport. In the early ’80s, 

breeder John Gaines publicized the fact 

that he and his colleagues made more 

money in breeding than in racing. But to 

get the big bucks as breeders, they needed 

big wins on the track. In order to increase 

the visibility of top thoroughbreds, Gaines 

devised a string of races that would allow 

all the best horses to compete within 

their specifi c categories, concluding with 

the Breeders’ Cup Classic. “The Breeders’ 

Cup Classic is the richest race in North 

America,” says Breeders’ Cup senior vice 

2008 

Raven’s Pass becomes 

the fi fth European horse 

to win a Classic since 

1999. In the process, he 

sets a record for Santa 

Anita Park, the venue 

for the Breeders’ Cup 

that year. 

DOWN THE STRETCH Coil, second from right, with jockey Martin Garcia, just before launching into 

his winning stride during the Resorts Haskell Invitational at Monmouth Park in Oceanport, N.J. 

president Carter Carnegie. “It is a determining 

factor in terms of greatness for a 

horse. It’s the diff erence between a horse 

being worth $20,000 for [each session of] 

breeding and being worth $45,000.” And 

the Classic’s $5 million purse doesn’t hurt. 

Karl Watson, co-owner of Coil, is among 

those hoping to reproduce past Breeders’ 

Cup experiences. In 2007 and 2008, his 

horse Midnight Lute won the sprint. As 

for today, “We’re optimistic,” he says, standing 

outside his private box, where boosters 

lunch on crab cakes. “But this is a day of 

fi rsts. Coil is running on dirt for the fi rst 

time and running without blinkers for the 

first time. Bob [celebrity thoroughbred 

trainer Bob Baff ert] is trying to get him to 

relax a li le bit.” Taking a breath and smiling 

tightly, Watson, who supports his horse 

habit with a string of car dealerships, adds, 

“Coil is facing some major competition. He 

really needs to step it up this a ernoon.” 

Down below, the snowy-haired Baff ert, 

pulling off a bumblebee-yellow necktie/ 

pocket-square ensemble with élan, is oozing 

confi dence as he makes his way to the 

stables where Coil needs to be prepped. 

“The Breeders’ Cup is special,” he says. 

“Every great trainer and every great horse 

is there. You want to be there and you want 

HORSEPLAY A glance back at the past 

three Breeders’ Cup Classics 

2009 

Zenyatta wins the race 

as the fi rst fi lly to ace 

the Classic. Her performance 

is so stunning 

that star trainer Bob 

Baff ert claims to not 

mind that his own horse 

lost in the wake of the 

history-making run. 


2010 

Race fans were pulling 

for a repeat performance 

from Zenyatta, 

who had logged 19 wins 

in a row before the 2010 

Classic. Heartbreakingly, 

she’s beaten by a 

proverbial nose. 

to be there big.” That being said, he likes 

his chances. “With Coil,” he says, “I’ve got 

them over a barrel.” 

FANS BEGIN CHEERING as soon as the 

starting gate fl ies open and eight horses 

thunder down the opening stretch. Coil 

gets a bad jump and is having a hard time 

keeping up with the competition, appearing 

to be out for a morning constitutional 

while the other beasts run for all they’re 

worth. Shackleford threatens to take the 

lead at the half-mile point, coming up from 

the outside, and Ruler on Ice holds back 

in fi h place. 

Then, Shackleford bursts into the lead, 

Ruler on Ice steps up to second and, suddenly, 

at that moment, coming around on 

the outside, Coil locks in. He starts making 

up for lost time. Storming down the 

middle of the track, taking the normally 

inadvisable long way, he bears down. In 

no time, he’s chewing up the other horses. 

Then he’s past them. Then, amazingly, he 

wins the race. Winners in the stands are 

jumping up and down, screaming, hugging 

one another. 

It was a nail-biter for fans, but it was a 

heart-stopper for Karl Watson and Coil’s 

other owners. A er they celebrate in the 

winner’s circle, Watson wonders aloud 

why Coil got such an unpromising start. “I 

didn’t know what to think,” he says, accepting 

a glass of champagne. “I had never seen 

him running so slow.” Friends and reporters 

press in, wanting to hear what he has to 

say. He obliges them, but you can see that 

his mind is already somewhere else—at 

Churchill Downs in November, most likely, 

where he hopes to see Coil make one more 

run for glory. Anyway, he shrugs about the 

day’s drama, waving his champagne, “that’s 

a nice thing about owning a racehorse. It 

keeps life interesting.” 

Hemispheres contributing writer MICHAEL 

KAPLAN has yet to leave the track a winner. 

JULIO CORTEZ/ASSOCIATED PRESS (RACE), CHERYL ANN QUIGLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM (TROPHY)

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2011-12 

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as a “Best Hospital.” Honored in 11 specialties, Methodist earned the 

distinction of having the most specialties ranked in Texas for the fifth straight year. 

Serving patients in Houston, and from around the world, Methodist is Leading Medicine.

»82 

TOIL AND TROUBLE 

How one renegade British stage 

company’s hair-raisingly gonzo 

production of Macbeth (starring 

you) is changing the way the world 

thinks of theater. 

BY JENNA SCHERER 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SARAH WILMER 

NOVEMBER FEATURES 

»91 

BEST BUYS 

Just in time for the holidays, we 

asked experts from the worlds of 

sports, technology, design, toys 

and food to share their picks for the 

best gifts this season. 



»102 

THREE PERFECT DAYS: 

MEXICO CITY 

With deep culture, world-class food 

and boundless energy, Mexico’s 

capital is hands-down one of the 

most fascinating places on earth. 


PHOTOGRAPHS BY HOLLY WILMETH 

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTINE BERRIE HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011 81

82 NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

No seats, no stage, no intermission, 

no escape. scap 

How one renegade British stage troupe 

might just save theater. 

By Jenna Scherer 

and its wild production of Macbeth 

photographs By sarah wilmer 


I HAD TO PRESS MYSELF FLAT AGAINST THE WALL 

TO KEEP THE HOTEL CLERK FROM KICKING ME. 

HE AND A GUEST—A GLAMOROUS WOMAN IN A 

TRAVELING COAT—WERE WRESTLING ON THE 

RECEPTION DESK, FIGHTING OVER A SET OF ROOM 

KEYS. I PROBABLY HAD NO BUSINESS BEING BACK 

THERE IN THE FIRST PLACE, BUT NOBODY HAD TRIED 

TO STOP ME—OR, IF THEY HAD, I HADN’T NOTICED. 

I WAS TOO BUSY THINKING ABOUT THE SINISTER MAN 

I’D ENCOUNTERED A FEW MINUTES EARLIER, WASHING 

HIS HANDS IN A BATHTUB. A LITTLE LATER, I FOUND 

MYSELF WANDERING THROUGH A CEMETERY, FAIRLY 

CONFIDENT THAT THE SHAPES LOOMING IN THE 

DARKNESS WERE JUST STATUES—UNTIL ONE OF 

THEM MOVED. IT WAS A MAN, A HULKING FIGURE 

WEARING AN APRON, FUMBLING IN THE SOIL. 

This may sound like a dream brought on by bad seafood, but it’s not. It’s 

Sleep No More: a show that takes your preconceptions about what a night at 

the theater should entail and completely sha ers them. The work of pioneering 

British company Punchdrunk, Sleep No More is a sprawling, immersive 

performance piece that’s part Shakespeare, part vintage Hitchcock and part 

live-action video game. 

The show takes place in a renovated warehouse in New York’s Chelsea 

district. It’s a disconcertingly large venue, spread out over six fl oors and more 

than 100 rooms. Audience members—if that’s what you can call them—are 

invited not only to watch the events unfolding in the make-believe McKi rick 

Hotel, but also to throw themselves right into the thick of it all. 

Here’s how it works: Upon entering the set, you are led through a dimly lit 

maze into a Prohibition-era bar, complete with a lounge singer crooning the 

standards. A er a drink or two, a na ily dressed but nonetheless ominous 

man hands you a white beaked mask, which you’re required to wear for the 

duration of the show. From there, you’re ushered into an elevator, whose 

operator gives you the lowdown: no talking, don’t touch the actors, head back 

to the bar if you need a break. The elevator lurches to a halt and he adds, 

“Fortune favors the bold.” The door opens to a misty darkness. Showtime. 

The story loosely follows the plotline of Macbeth, Shakespeare’s twisted 

tragedy, with a bit of Hitchcock’s Rebecca thrown in. But that’s all I can tell 

you for sure, because the rest is up to you. No two playgoers’ experiences are 

ever the same. You may spend the evening wandering deserted rooms, picking 

through le ers, photographs and bits of macabre detritus. You may choose 

to follow a specifi c character all evening, chasing him from fl oor to fl oor, or 

to abandon that character for another one halfway through. You’ll be privy 

to very intimate moments. If you’re lucky, you might even get yanked into 

a secret room by one of the characters for a private tête-à-tête. The point is, 

it’s up to you. You shape your own 

narrative according to where you go 

and what you do. It’s an entertaining, 


WANT MORE? For cast interviews 

and other behind-the-scenes 

extras, download our iPad app. 

surprising and invigorating experience. 

Punchdrunk has been pu ing on shows 

like this since 2000, when a 22-year-old 

drama school graduate named Felix Barre 

fi rst founded the company. Its specialty is 

adapting dark, reality-bending tales, ranging 

from Edgar Allan Poe’s The Masque of 

the Red Death to Peter Weiss’ Marat/Sade, 

and the troupe stages its work in derelict 

tunnels and abandoned buildings, with the 

only constant being that the audience is 

fl ung headlong into the action. The shows 

sell out wherever they go, and the response 

has been so positive as to appear, at times, a 

bit unhinged. “All I can say is ‘WOW.’ I don’t 

believe that I’ve ever experienced anything 

remotely like this,” gushed a woman on a 

Broadway World discussion forum. “I can’t 

stop thinking about it.” 

THE PAST DECADE or so has not been 

kind to traditional stage productions. 

People are too busy poking, tweeting and 

texting to sit still in a theater for two hours. 

The public demands brevity, interactivity 

or at the very least a pair of 3-D goggles. The 

form has tried to update itself, but with the 

exception of a few brilliant outliers (The 

Book of Mormon, for instance), Broadway 

seems to have resigned itself to its fate. 

A endance is down, ticket prices are up 

and there’s li le relief on the horizon. 

Punchdrunk, on the other hand, fl ourishes, 

owing its success in part to the fact 

that it anticipated the tastes of a public 

saturated with media and bogged down by 

the demands of the digital age. Its shows 

provide the engagement of social networking, 

the visceral jolt of a Hollywood 

thriller, the blood-lurch of an amusement 

park ride. “Our whole desire is to put an 

audience at the heart of the action,” Barre 

says. “You’re completely empowered 

to make any decision you want to. It’s the 

opposite state to conventional theater: 

that amazing danger that’s inherent 

within giving the audience a choice.” 

Conceived and directed by Barrett 

and choreographer Maxine Doyle, the 

New York production of Sleep No More 

represents Punchdrunk’s most ambitious 

eff ort to date. The show opened in 2003 as 

a modest 10-person production in a former 

Victorian school in London. Six years later,

“We fight against 

the sitting there 

that only 

SOUND AND FURY 

Punchdrunk founder Felix 

Barrett, pictured, is redefi ning 

theater as we know it 



an expanded version came to another shuttered 

schoolhouse, this one in Brookline, Mass. 

Produced with Harvard Square’s highbrow 

American Repertory Theater, it was Punchdrunk’s 

fi rst show outside the U.K. 

Since Sleep No More hit New York, it’s been 

looking poised to make the leap from cult 

phenomenon to full-on sensation—in part 

because of its blockbuster production values 

and in part because, well, this is New York. 

“We always wanted to do a show in New York,” 

Barre says. “It’s such a vibrant, passionate 

theater city. We were really excited about that 

audience and how they might hurl themselves 

into the work.” 

YOU COULD ARGUE that the biggest star of 

Sleep No More’s New York run is the venue. 

Barre is drawn to spaces that reinforce the 

mood of a piece, and the warehouse on West 

27th Street could have been purpose-built for 

his needs. “I only saw it for an hour, but I knew 

it was the right place. It was love at fi rst sight,” 

he says. “It’s got that feeling of excess and 

decay, perfect for the power-hungry, obsessive 

elements of the storyline.” 

Another important element of Barre ’s productions 

is music. The fi lm noir soundtracks 

of the 1940s and the gilded tunes of the swing 

era were an early inspiration for this show,

KEY SCENES Sleep No More’s Nicholas 

Bruder, playing Macbeth, with Kelly Bartnik; 

opposite page, Tori Sparks as Lady Macbeth, 

with Bruder (top) and Bartnik (below)

DANSE MACABRE The cast of Sleep No More has a ball 

and, other than the occasional gasp, groan or mu ered verse, their eerie 

strains are pre y much the only sound you’ll hear. 

Punchdrunk aims for a physical, sensory style closer to interpretive dance 

than to scripted theater. Rather than expressing anguish or desire through 

words, performers crawl up walls, clamber onto furniture, wrestle on pool 

tables or suddenly take off at a dead run. 

Sleep No More plays with all the senses: Lady Macduff ’s neglected apartment 

smells like ro ing food, and the air in the graveyard is tangibly cool 

and damp. You’re invited to rifl e through drawers, steal a discarded piece of 

candy, pick up the phone to see if there’s anyone on the other end (sometimes 

there is). Barre ’s approach to theater means no lazing around or stepping 

back. The harder you work at Sleep No More, the more you’ll get out of it. “We 

fi ght against passive obedience, the formulaic si ing there quietly in a theater 

seat that only stimulates your brain,” he says. “If the body is stimulated as well, 

if you have to actually make decisions and have ownership, the repercussions 

fall on your shoulders.” 

Some people balk at this kind of participation, but most throw themselves 

into the experience. A few go a li le overboard. Conor Doyle, who plays several 

roles and is also the show’s assistant choreographer, once saw a woman 

a empt to stop a character giving another a glass of poison. “She’d completely 

forgo en that it was a show and it was fake,” he says. “She cared about the 

character in that moment. She genuinely wanted to save her.” Barre , for his 

part, recalls a night when a man made for an open coffi n, lay down inside it 

and slept through the entire show. 

“People have done some really amazing things. I look at them and I think, 

Wow, you’re doing that right now! OK,” says Tori Sparks, who plays Lady 

Macbeth. “It’s hard for a lot of people, to just be shot off into the dark and 

le to their own devices. I think that your reaction is very telling of who 

you are as a person.” 

PUNCHDRUNK ISN’T THE only company intent on demolishing traditional 

boundaries between audience and actor. The trend’s epicenter is in the U.K., 

where experimental outfi ts like Il Pixo Rosso, Belt Up Theatre and Shunt 

employ gimmicks such as video goggles, Victorian parlor games and wild 

goose chases beneath London Bridge. In the U.S., the American Repertory 

Theater’s The Donkey Show, a disco adaptation of A Midsummer Night’s 

Dream, is performed on and around a sweaty dance fl oor. 


Few, though, have generated the kind of 

enthusiasm that’s greeted Sleep No More. 

Celebs including Trey Parker, Kevin Spacey 

and Amy Adams have slipped behind the 

mask. The show has seen its run extended 

over and over since opening in March, and 

continues to sell out. There are online communities 

devoted to it, whose members, in 

an a empt to get to the heart of the show’s 

narrative, spend hours piecing together 

the fragments of their experiences. 

While Barre is quick to point out that 

Punchdrunk’s productions aren’t meant 

to supersede the traditional model of 

stage, actors and viewers in seats— 

“Conventional theater has its place, and I 

love it,” he says—he does seem intent on 

further deconstructing the form. This fall 

will see the launch of Punchdrunk Travel: 

Participants arrive at an airport, collect 

plane tickets and a bundle from a locker, 

and fl y off to a mystery venue for three 

days. “As soon as you leave the airport, 

you’re inside the show,” he says. “It’s going 

to be completely global.” 

Of course, secrecy being paramount to 

Punchdrunk’s mystique, Barre is loath 

to divulge any details on his forthcoming 

travel agency or the inevitable follow-up 

to Sleep No More—though he and his company 

are most assuredly up to something. 

“I can’t tell you when or where,” he says. 

“But it’s coming.” 

Boston-based drama critic JENNA SCHERER 

has to remind herself not to follow random 

strangers around actual hotels. 

SARA KRULWICH/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX


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CAUGHT 

DAD TRYING TO 

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YOU GAVE HIM LAST YEAR? 

TAKE HEART. OUR HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE IS FULL 

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BY BY JACQUELINE 

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ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN JAY CABUAY 


GIFT GUIDE: ELECTRONICS 


EXPERT PICK 

PRECIOUS METAL 

You can bet that most of what 

your college freshman will 

be doing with her brand-new 

computer is Googling and writing 

papers, so there’s no better 

person to ask what netbook to 

give her than Brian Rakowski, 

vice president of product management 

for Google Chrome. He 

recommends the new Samsung 

Series 5 Chromebook. “It’s 

incredibly simple to set up and 

it maintains itself, so you won’t 

end up with a second job as tech 

support for the lucky person you 

give it to,” he says. 

$430 / samsung.com 

ALL PROP STYLING: MEGUMI EMOTO

FRESH AIR 

Fast (and silver) as a speeding bullet 

and light enough to leap small desk 

obstacles in a single bound, Apple’s 

latest entry-level notebook, the 

amazing MacBook Air, which boasts 

Intel Core i5 and i7 processors, 

should be on the wish list of anyone 

who’s ever had to lug a heavy laptop 

around while on the road. 

$999 / store.apple.com 

TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT 

If you’re ready to get into the 

DSLR pool but think you’d rather 

wade in than do a cannonball off 

the diving board, ask for the Canon 

Rebel T3 Red 18-55mm IS II kit. 

It has a 12.2-megapixel sensor 

and all the ISO settings you 

could possibly need, yet is as 

user-friendly as a pool noodle. 

$900 / usa.canon.com 

DOUBLE TALK 

OF SOUND MIND 

Cell phones and Skype are great, but Collecting 13,000 international 

when you’re not at the offi ce, you radio stations, all your personal 

might miss the feeling of importance songs and an intelligent music 

conveyed by holding (and slamming) feature à la Pandora and playing 

a traditional banana phone. Enter everything on listening stations 

Native Union’s Moshi Moshi 03i, a throughout your house, Bang & 

Bluetooth adapter that can sync calls Olufsen’s Beosound 5 Encore might 

from two devices and transmit them be the most comprehensive home 

to a handset. 

music setup short of a house band. 

$150 / nativeunion.com 

$3,350 / bang-olufsen.com 


GIFT GUIDE: DÉCOR 

BEST VASE SCENARIO 

Brilliant, blue and big enough 

for long-stemmed roses, Weego 

Home’s weathered Siri vases look 

like larger versions of midcentury 

modern bud vases—lending them 

suffi cient presence to hold their own 

amid any vast open space (table, 

windowsill, mantel) in your home. 

$68, $84 / weegohome.com 


GREEN LIGHT 

Inspired by the vein networks that 

carry water through plants, Nervous 

System’s Hyphae lamps make lacy 

patterns on walls and serious 

impressions on dinner guests. Each 

lamp is from a limited edition of 

one of 24 designs, so they’re as 

unique as plants themselves. 

$600 / n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com 

A WORLD APART 

Butterfl ies, monsters, fl owers and 

quotes about life and travel adorn 

artist Wendy Gold’s antique globes, 

making them more useful for artistic 

inspiration than actual exploration. 

For instance, did you know there was 

a giant sea monster in the middle of 

the Pacifi c? Well, you do now. 

$350 / artonglobes.com 

NICE THROW 

Bright colors are great if you 

have white walls or need to upstage 

the carousel in your living room. 

For the rest of us, Missoni muted 

its signature zigzag pattern in the 

autumnal Morli blanket, which 

practically begs you to curl up under 

it with a cup of cocoa and a book. 

$455 / missoni.com

EXPERT PICK 

COCKTAILS, DRESSED 

British fashion designer Paul Smith recently 

teamed up with Danish design powerhouse Stelton 

to revamp the classic Arne Jacobsen Cocktail set, 

engraving cursive quotes like “Take pleasure seriously” 

and “Start something new” on the shiny black surfaces. 

Relative Space designer Tyler Greenberg loves the set 

for its wistfulness and whimsy. “Sometimes we must 

eschew formality for a few unbridled dreams,” he says. 

$1,953 / paulsmith.co.uk 


EXPERT PICK 

IN THE BAG 

What does a golf pro covet for 

the holidays? Holly Juergens, 

manager of the Pebble Beach 

Golf Links Pro Shop, wants a 

Callaway Hyper-Lite 4.0 golf 

bag. “It’s functional and sharp, 

has extra padding and fantastic 

balance and weighs only 4 

pounds,” she says. It also has a 

foam hip pad and a velourlined 

valuables pocket. Now, 

if only your approaches could 

look as stylish and eff ortless 

as you do when you’re 

strolling toward the green. 

$170 / callawaygolf.com 


GIFT GUIDE: SPORTS & ADVENTURE

HANGING BY A THREAD 

The big problem with hammocks— 

inasmuch as there is one—is that 

they don’t magically appear when 

you need them. Until that fateful day 

you happen upon a grove of them 

right at nap time, you’ll have to settle 

for the tie-anywhere Kammok. 

$99 ($29 for straps) / kammok.com 

WHAT A RACKET 

Whether you’re a tennis novice or 

Rafael Nadal himself, you can still 

benefi t from a larger sweet spot. 

That’s the idea behind Prince’s new 

EXO3 Tour Team 100 racket, which 

has a hitting area the size of a pony. 

OK, not really. But it is big. 

$189 / princetennis.com 

BOARD OF CORRECTIONS 

Ah, the age-old surf dilemma: It’s 

easier to catch a wave on a long 

board, but more fun to ride it on 

a short board. Not so with the 

Meyerhoff er 2, a long board with a 

short-board profi le cut into the side. 

Voilà: easy waves and tight turns. 

$895 / surfi ndustries.com 

EASY RIDER 

The blackout matte fi nish on Trek’s 

9th District city cruiser makes it look 

like the kind of bike Batman might 

ride if the Batmobile were in the shop. 

Plus, it has Bontrager all-weather 

tires and a nine-speed drivetrain. 

Now all you need is a bike cave. 

$750 / trekbikes.com 


WORTH ITS SALT 

There are few things that wouldn’t 

look fancier when placed atop this 

brick of Himalayan pink salt. It not 

only works as a serving dish, but also 

subtly cures the edges of whatever 

you put on it, from fruit to sushi. Just 

keep it away from your horse. 

$62 / atthemeadow.com 


TO YOUR HEALTH 

A bottle of wine doesn’t usually 

reveal much about the giver beyond 

his tastes. That’s not true of this 

92-point Napa cabernet, as 100 

percent of its purchase price 

is donated to cardiovascular 

research. Don’t you look nice? 

$95 / ehlersestate.com 

ON A ROLL 

Anthropologie’s rolling pin and 

dish are so adorable, you might be 

tempted to relegate them to the “look 

but don’t bake” part of your cupboard. 

Don’t! The classic Americana pattern 

becomes doubly charming when 

dusted with a layer of fl our. $18 (pin), 

$36 (dish) / anthropologie.com 

CULTURE CLUB 

The Cheese for the Connoisseur 

package from legendary NYC 

fromager Murray’s Cheese comes 

with soft Cremont, nutty Austrian 

Hittisau, Fromage de Meaux and 

other varieties, plus gourmet extras 

like pickled fi gs. Watch your fi ngers. 

$84 / gilttaste.com

EXPERT PICK 

TASTE MAKER 

Former “Top Chef” contestant Sam 

Talbot, executive chef of Surf Lodge 

in Montauk, N.Y., and Imperial No. 9 

in New York City, is a huge fan of 

PolyScience’s The Smoking Gun, a 

handheld cool-smoker that can add 

smoke fl avor to everything from 

oysters to butter. “The other day I 

had these berries picked fresh in 

Amagansett. I smoked them with a 

touch of cinnamon, Truvia and olive 

oil,” he says. “They were amazing.” 

$125 / cuisinetechnology.com 

GIFT GUIDE: FOOD & DRINK 


EXPERT PICK 

NOTEWORTHY 

Children’s toys, like children’s 

movies, require a certain degree 

of absurdity to hold the attention 

of adults as well as that of their 

target audience. These adorably 

ridiculous, award-winning Sing-ama-jigs 

Duets, which open their 

mouths to belt out notes like opera 

singers, have exactly that. “They’re 

cute monsters that sing and make 

strange sounds when you squeeze 

them,” says Barry Kudrowitz, toy 

designer and University of Minnesota 

assistant professor of 

product design. “Just like me!” 

$19 / thesingamajigs.com 


GIFT GUIDE: TOYS

ALL DOLLED UP 

What better way to learn the intricacies 

of modern home décor than 

with Brinca Dada’s contemporary 

Dylan dollhouse? Pick one up, and 

in no time at all, your kids will be 

walking into rooms and saying things 

like “Great space!” 

$149 / brincadada.com 

UP TO SPEED 

When your own kids are tearing 

around the living room on Acorn’s 

retro silver speedster, your father 

won’t be able to yell, “Slow down! 

When I was your age, we didn’t have 

speedy-lookin’ racers like that!” 

Because, honestly, they probably did. 

$110 / acorntoyshop.com 

BLOCK PARTY 

Like a combination of tangrams, 

Legos and origami but with a little 

more edge, Paper Punk building 

blocks are perfect for your budding 

Claes Oldenburg. Just keep an eye 

on his mohawk—most kindergarten 

teachers frown on those. 

$19 / paperpunk.com 

BRIGHT LIGHTS, LITTLE CITY 

Kids are always building cities out 

of building blocks, so why not give 

them a leg up with a prefabricated 

version of New York City or Tokyo 

from Muji? That should give them 

plenty of time to focus on building 

tiny bankers, taxi cabs and pigeons. 

$14 / muji.us 


One of the world’s biggest cities 

is bursting at the seams with 

energy, culture, great food 

and enough surreality to keep it 

endlessly fascinating 

THREE PERFECT DAYS 

MEXICO 

CITY 



PHOTOGRAPHS 

BY HOLLY WILMETH 

GOOD GOURD 

Lifting the lid on an 

artful dish (baby corn 

in coff ee mayonnaise) 

at upscale eatery Pujol; 

opposite, the Catedral 

Metropolitana

105 

DAY ONE 

Visiting Frida Kahlo 

107 

DAY TWO 

Communing with 

the Aztecs 

113 

DAY THREE 

When in Roma ...

MEXICO CITY, a.k.a. “El Monstruo.” The 

French poet André Breton called it the most 

surreal place on earth, while writer Salvador 

Novo said you don’t live in Mexico City, you 

merely practice it. For generations, writers, 

wanderers and musicians have flocked here 

from around the world, drawn by the city’s 

mad improvisational energy and deep culture, 

its free wheeling lifestyle and seeming lack of 

any organizing principle. 

Formerly Tenochtitlan, the Aztec capital, Mexico 

City still suff ers from a reputation earned 

in the later years of the past century, but the 

city known by the roughly 20 million 

residents in its metro area as “D.F.,” for 

Distrito Federal (akin to D.C. in the U.S.), 



MEXICO CITY 

is booming. Real estate prices are rising; the fi lm, 

publishing and music industries are among the 

strongest in the Spanish-speaking world; and 

a new mayoral administration has launched a 

slew of programs to cut smog, improve mass 

transit and enhance public safety, making it 

easier to enjoy the city’s 160 world-class museums, 

countless acres of beautiful parks and 

some of the best food going. 

An endlessly surprising, utterly fascinating 

mix of the sublime and the surreal, D.F. 

is beloved by its people, known as Chilangos. 

Come here and they’ll squander no opportunity 

WANT MORE? 

Download our 

iPad app. 

to tell you about it, argue about it, sing 

its praises. And here’s the thing: A er 

a few days, you will too.

DAY ONE | It’s Saturday morning, and the 

push of a bu on on the bedside console 

in your corner suite at Las Alcobas (1), a 

stylish new hotel in the wealthy Polanco 

neighborhood, opens the curtains, revealing, 

through the gracefully curved window, 

an uncharacteristically quiet street below. 

You have the front desk call you a taxi. By 

the time you get to the lobby—more like 

the front hall of a grand residence than a 

hotel foyer—the car is waiting to take you 

a few miles south to Coyoacán. 

Step out at the Frida Kahlo Museum (2), 

in the Casa Azul, the former home of 

painter and global cultural icon Frida 

Kahlo, where she learned to paint while 

bedridden after an accident and where 

she later lived with her equally iconic 

husband, Diego Rivera (and, for a time, 

an exiled Trotsky). The rambling home 

LOS COLORES DEL DISTRITO FEDERAL This page, from left, a VW Beetle takes a breather in 

Coyoacán; a waitress on the move with pulque, a sacred Aztec drink made from fermented cactus, 

at La Nuclear in Roma. Opposite, from left, a barista grinds the beans at Café El Jarocho; Frida and 

Diego’s whimsically autographed kitchen at the Frida Kahlo Museum 

is airy, full of light and clu ered with art, 

pre-Columbian po ery and books; on a 

kitchen wall, “Frida” and “Diego” are spelled 

out in hundreds of tiny teacups. 

After an hour of wishing you lived 

here, you walk out and follow Avenida 

Ignacio Allende past vendors se ing up 

stands of woolen plush toys, lucha libre 

masks, clothes and food. You follow the 

mariachi strains to El Jarocho (3), a lively 

corner café. Coffee in hand, you take a 

seat on a sidewalk bench and catch up on 

the local gossip. Farther down, you cross 

Plaza Hidalgo (4), a stately public space with 

the old city council building on one side, 

ringed by cafés and ice cream shops, and 

then pass through the shady, manicured 

Jardin Centenario to Francisco Sosa, a leafy 

street lined with colorful colonial homes. 

You cross the major avenue La Paz 

and make your way to the Plaza San 

Jacinto in San Angel, home of El Bazar del 

Sábado (5), D.F.’s legendary weekly art fair. 

Chilangos pack into the bazaar building 

to peruse handmade jewelry, iron solar 

system mobiles and impossibly detailed 

sculptures carved out of single toothpicks, 

while outside, hundreds of artists sell their 

paintings, which range from conventional 

to subversive to exuberantly kitschy. 

Wind your way along cobblestone 

residential streets to San Angel Inn (6), a 


STRING SECTION 

Roving musicians 

Samuel Lopez and 

Ignacio Lopes, at 

work in Coyoacán

RONALDO SCHEMIDT/AFP/GETTY IMAGES 

famed local institution housed in a sprawling, highclass 

hacienda. You take a table in the bar area, call 

for one of the house margaritas, poured from a silver 

decanter buried in a dish of crushed ice, and follow 

that with roasted poblano peppers stuff ed with cheese 

and beef in a sweet sauce with undertones of smoke. 

A er a brief nap back at the hotel (the city is 7,200 

feet above sea level, and the air is thin) and a shower, 

you stroll through Polanco, past mansions, embassies 

and streets named for great writers, to Pujol (7), considered 

by some to be Mexico City’s most important 

restaurant. The dizzying tasting menu marries the 

traditional with the avant-garde. There are the pumpkin 

fl owers stuff ed with bean paste; the baby corn in 

coff ee mayonnaise; the egg in a pastry puff drizzled 

with caterpillar sauce; fried dough and tomato crudités 

with fried tomato skin, queso fresco and a sprinkling 

of tiny, crunchy beetles; a raspberry sorbet served with 

salt and fl aming mezcal. It seems to go on forever. 

You’re half-delirious from food, but you’d be remiss 

if you didn’t take in some of the nightlife, so you have 

the waiter call a car and you head out to the Roma 

neighborhood. Per the urging of an expat, you stop 

first at La Nuclear (8), a narrow, noisy, brick-lined 

space that sells pulque, a traditional milky beverage 

made from fermented cactus that’s enjoying a revival 

among bohemians. Then it’s off to Mama Rumba (9), 

a popular salsa club. The place is slammed, with two 

levels of people dancing to a ferocious salsa band. You 

stake out a spot by the bar and order a mojito. You 

try to keep from being sucked in, but resistance is 

ultimately futile. 

DAY TWO | Start with breakfast at Las Alcobas, with 

the fresh fruit plate, a sculptural tower of kiwi, apple, 

melon and dragon fruit, sprinkled with pomegranate 

seeds and drizzled with honey. It is, without question, 

the lightest thing you’ll eat all week. To make sure your 

stomach doesn’t get the wrong idea, you chase the 

fruit with a plate of eggs in rich mole sauce. 


MEXICO CITY 

Paseo de la Reforma 

Constituyentes 

Sta Lucía 

De Las Águilas 

Alta Ten sión 

Anillo Perifé r ico (Blvd. Adolfo López Mateos) 

1 

6 

5 

Av. Rio San Joaquín 

7 

Circuito Interior 

Av. de los Insurgentes Sur 


Chapultepec 

9 8 

Viaducto Rio Piedad 

División del Nte 

Av. Cuauhtémoc 

2 

3 

4 

Miguel Ángel De Quevedo 

DAY ONE 

(1) Las Alcobas 390 Presidente Masaryk; Tel: 3300-3900 

(2) Frida Kahlo Museum 247 Londres; Tel: 5554-5999 

(3) Café El Jarocho 91 Centenario; Tel: 5554-6588 

(4) Plaza Hidalgo 

(5) El Bazar del Sábado Plaza San Jacinto 

(6) San Angel Inn 50 Diego Rivera; Tel: 5616-1402 

(7) Pujol 254 Francisco Petrarca; Tel: 5545-4111 

(8) La Nuclear 161 Orizaba; Tel: 5574-5367 

(9) Mama Rumba Eje 3 Pte. Medellín; Tel: 5264-4316 

SLIM PICKINGS 

The world’s richest man opens D.F.’s 

newest museum 

Eugenia 

Mexico City has no shortage of great museums, but none 

has inspired more buzz than Museo Soumaya, a shining, 

top-heavy $70 million structure in Polanco showcasing the 

personal collection of one Carlos Slim Helú: the world’s 

richest man. Named in honor of Slim’s late wife, who kindled 

his love of art, and designed by his son-in-law, the museum 

contains some 66,000 items, including Picassos, da Vincis, 

Renoirs and Rodins (most notably a version of The Kiss). 

Slim—whose net worth clocks in at more than $74 billion— 

claims he erected this temple not to show off that he has the 

means to amass such a collection, but for a purer reason. 

“All desirable things,” he has said, “must be accessible.” 

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011 107 

Calz de Tlalpan

HEADSTRONG This page, from top, Aztec art at 

the Museo Nacional de Antropología; a corner 

suite at Las Alcobas. Opposite, elote—corn on 

the cob with mayonnaise, chili powder, lime and 

salt—a street food staple 

Outside, you walk down Calle Oscar 

Wilde, past a park with a tranquil pool 

in which older men pilot their remotecontrolled 

boats on the weekends (one 

man with a submarine is wreaking havoc 

on a cheerful orange vessel piloted by 

another in a captain’s hat), and head for 

Bosque de Chapultepec (1), the main park 

in a city that should be be er known for 

its green spaces. Paseo de la Reforma, 

D.F.’s ordinarily congested central artery, 

is closed to cars on Sundays. Savor the 

peace and quiet while you admire the art 

exhibits mounted on the fences lining the 

park, and the sculpture garden running 

along the median. 

The next stop is the Museo Nacional 

de Antropología (2). Inside, you find an 

unmatched collection of Mayan and Aztec 

artifacts, including an otherworldly jade 

mask discovered in the tomb of seventhcentury 

Mayan ruler Pacal, and an exhibit on 

pulque. Here you learn that the Aztecs limited 

consumption of the highly alcoholic 

drink lest they fall under the spell of Cenzon 

Totochtin, or “Curse of the 400 Rabbits.” 



MEXICO CITY

ART OF THE CITY Opposite, clockwise from top left, a nicely 

crafted cappuccino at Café Toscana; a ceramic off ering at El 

Bazar del Sábado; Pujol’s avocado fl autas stuff ed with crystal 

shrimp; a Diego Rivera mural at Palacio de Bellas Artes 

Leaving the museum, you stop at one of the many 

food carts arrayed outside and order a cup of esquites. 

It’s nothing more than corn, hot peppers, lime, cheese 

and chili powder, served in corn liquid in a styrofoam 

cup, but it’s a terrifically flavorful meal unto itself 

(and, more important, a great vanquisher of residual 

pulque rabbits). You eat it on the way to El Centro, the 

historic center of Mexico City. When you get there, you 

navigate through the throngs of people to the Catedral 

Metropolitana (3), on the edge of the Zocalo, the main 

plaza in El Centro. When Hernán Cortés vanquished 

the Aztecs, he ordered their temples leveled, and had 

a Catholic church built here. The one standing today, 

consecrated in 1667, replaced that fi rst one. You take a 

look at the grand altar and the mammoth organ, and 

note how the chandeliers are hanging at an angle— 

the result of the sinking ground beneath El Centro. 

Next is the Palacio Nacional (4), the government 

headquarters built by Cortés on the site of Montezuma’s 

palace. You walk into the handsome courtyard 

and climb the staircase to take in several historical 

murals by Diego Rivera. Then travel back in time, 

via the intensely crowded and cacophonous street 

Moneda, to the Templo Mayor (5), one of the Aztecs’ 

main temples (and the site of some of the most copious 

sacrifi cial bloodle ing). It was built in the 14th 

century, and a er that, each succeeding ruler built a 

new layer on top in a representation of Aztec expansion. 

Lost for centuries, it was accidentally discovered 

by utility workers in 1978, and is still being excavated. 

Today, you can see the broken concentric shells and 

peer into its very core. 


MEXICO CITY 

Arquímedes 

Periférico Blvd. Manuel Ávila Camacho 

Ejercito Nacional Mexicano 

1 

2 

Constituyentes 

México-tacuba 

Marina Nacional 

Viaducto Miguel Al emán 

Interior (Calz. Melchor Ocampo) 


Chapultepec 

MASKED MEN 

The guilty pleasures of lucha libre 

Lowbrow, melodramatic and often 

hilarious, lucha libre is second only to soccer 

in the hearts of Mexican sports fans. Of 

course, it’s less sport than it is frenetic, 

muscular soap opera. Rudos (bad guys) and 

técnicos (good guys), clad in colorful masks 

and attended by beautiful women, clash 

in a series of elaborately scripted battles, 

while a rowdy all-ages crowd representing 

all points along the socioeconomic 

spectrum bellows its support. The fans at 

ringside tend to go for the técnicos, while 

those up in the cheap seats throw their 

support behind the rudos, particularly when 

the latter gang up on their goody-goody 

opponents, as they’re prone to do. Matches 

can be caught on Fridays and Tuesdays 

at the Arena Mexico or on Sundays at the 

Arena Coliseo, and tickets (and masks) are 

available online. 

Av. de los Insurgentes Norte 

Eje 1 Pte. Cuauhtémoc 

6 

5 

3 

4 

Fray Servando Teresa de Mier 

Dr. José María Vertiz 

Viaducto Rio Piedad 

DAY TWO 

(1) Bosque de Chapultepec 

(2) Museo Nacional de Antropología Tel: 5286-2960 

(3) Catedral Metropolitana Centro Histórico; Tel: 5510-0440 

(4) Palacio Nacional Centro Histórico; Tel: 3688-1255 

(5) Templo Mayor 8 Seminario; Tel: 4040-5600 

(6) Alameda Central Between Hidalgo and Juárez 


San Antonio Abad

¡QUÉ BELLO! The stunning Palacio de Bellas Artes, 

next to the lively Alameda Central, a park that’s full 

of food and music on weekends 

You amble west along Madero, taking in 

a pedestrian mall teeming with performers, 

riotous drum bands, mariachi musicians walking 

to work, teenagers and guys in homemade 

movie costumes posing for photos. (Batman 

is doing a brisk business; Predator, who is 

fashioned largely from washers and vacuum 

cleaner hoses, is less of a draw.) Pass the Palacio 

de Bellas Artes, and arrive at the Alameda 

Central (6). The park is packed with vendors 

and Chilangos hustling and hanging out on a 

pleasant Sunday. There are bands playing in 

diff erent corners of the park, each inspiring 

whirlpools of impromptu salsa dancing. 

The sun has gone down, and you’re feeling 

the altitude, so you make your way back to 

Chapultepec, buy some mango slices and 

roasted fava beans in chili powder from a vendor 

(most restaurants are closed on Sunday 

nights) and return to the hotel. Thus se led 

in, you order up a glass of wine, climb into the 

spacious tub by the window overlooking the 

street and call it a day. 

DAY THREE | Having go en a good night’s 

sleep, you call for a car to take you to bohemian 

Roma, and get out at Café Toscana (1), 

a coff ee shop popular with the local creative 

types, with windows that open to the sidewalk 

and excellent coff ee and baked goods. 

When you fi nish your cup, take a stroll past 

the neighborhood’s indie design stores, small 

bookstores and bike shops, plus a fi lm shoot. 

Though buzzing with energy today, Roma was 

nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1985, 

and even now many of the old colonial and 

beaux arts residences slump and lean. 

On Zacatecas, stop at La Valise (2), a store 

owned by a French expat that sells only design 

pieces and random curios that can fit in a 

suitcase. On the way out you smell something 

good, and step into Broka (3), next door. The 

li le year-old restaurant and bar (the space 

was previously a piñata store) serves one 

dish per day. Today, it’s chicken stuff ed with 

mushrooms and covered with spicy poblano 

salsa. Delicious. 

A 20-minute walk takes you to Roma’s 

trendier sister, Condesa, where you do a lap 

around Amsterdam, a street that circles the 

Parque Mexico, one of the city’s pre ier parks, 

then stray south down Tamaulipas to the 

Centro Cultural Bella Epoca (4), a vast, spotless 

bookstore and cultural center. You buy a CD by 

Chavela Vargas, one of Mexico’s great singers, 

then—to achieve that very Mexican balance 

of high- and lowbrow—proceed across the 


street to El Hijo del Santo (5), a small boutique and 

shrine to Mexico’s greatest lucha libre wrestler that’s 

full of T-shirts, toys, watches and posters bearing his 

visage. You can’t help it—you buy a silver mask. 

For dinner, you have a reservation at one of 

Condesa’s trendier eateries, Azul Condesa (6), a modern, 

colorful space popular with young, well-heeled 

types. You order the chile en nogada: a roasted poblano 

pepper stuff ed with spicy-sweet diced pork and 

smothered in walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds. 

For dessert you have the chocolate tamale with crème 

anglaise, chocolate sauce and almonds. The corn keeps 

telling you it’s not dessert, while the rest of the steaming 

dish defi nitively informs you otherwise. 

During your postprandial walk through Condesa, 

you spot a tiny concrete bunker of a mezcalería 

called La Botica (7). On one wall is a pop art cactus; 

on the other, a jukebox full of great Mexican rock 

’n’ roll. Dozens of varieties of mezcal are displayed 

in glass medicine bo les, behind a glass case of Star 

Wars figures posed with their arms held aloft in 

inscrutable triumph. You order the top-shelf añejo 

and the waitress climbs a ladder into a crawlspace 

over the bar to retrieve it, then serves it with a dish 

of sliced oranges coated in chili powder. It’s smooth 

and smoky, with no burn, completely delicious, and 

the fruit chases it beautifully. You had planned to do 

some more strolling, but instead you opt to end the 

night here, feet up, doing what you should be doing: 

feeling the pulse, pondering it, practicing it, watching 

the street life teem, here in one of the world’s most 

fascinating cities. 

JOE KEOHANE has been trying to replicate esquites at 

home. A breakthrough has proved elusive. 

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW • ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD 

David Lida 

AUTHOR, FIRST STOP IN THE NEW 

WORLD: MEXICO CITY, THE CAPITAL 

OF THE 21ST CENTURY 

“Have lunch at a cantina in El Centro 

for a true D.F. experience. At most 

cantinas, traditional food comes 

free with your drinks. At La Mascota, 

children and grandparents 

are welcome.” 



MEXICO CITY 

7 

5 4 


Mazatlan 

Juan Escutia 

Vincente Suarez 

Tamaulipas 

Atlixco 

Alfonso Reyes 

Gral Benjamin Hill 

Nuevo León 

Rose Mary Salum 

DIRECTOR OF LITERAL MAGAZINE 

Chapultepec 

Veracruz 

“One of the buildings downtown that 

surprises me is the Secretaría de 

Educación Pública. It was built during 

the 16th century, but between 1923 

and 1928 it was decorated, mainly by 

Diego Rivera, with some of the most 

magnifi cent murals you can fi nd in 

Mexico City.” 

Av. Sonora 

6 

Amsterdam 

Citlatépetl 

Eje 3 Pte. Salamanca 

México 

Oaxaca 

Av. de los Insurgentes Sur 

Eje 3 Pte. Medallin 

Tiaxcala 

Eje 3 Pte. Monterey 

Grant Cogswell 

OWNER, UNDER THE VOLCANO BOOKS 

“Be sure to try pulque, the Aztecs’ 

smoothie-like sacred beverage, 

at La Hija de los Apaches in the 

Doctores neighborhood, where retired 

lightweight boxer Epiphanio ‘Pifas’ 

Leyva warmly caters to students, 

punks, workers and grandmothers like 

an extended family.” 

3 

Eje 3 Sur (Av. Baja California) 

2 

Eje 2A Sur San Luis Potosi 

Coahuila 

1 

Álvaro Obregón 

Yucatan 

DAY THREE 

(1) Café Toscana Plaza Río de Janeiro; Tel: 5533-5444 

(2) La Valise 126 Zacatecas; Tel: 5564-9013 

(3) Broka 126B Zacatecas; Tel: 4437-4285 

(4) Centro Cultural Bella Epoca 202 Tamaulipas; Tel: 5276-7111 

(5) El Hijo del Santo 219 Tamaulipas; Tel: 5515-2186 

(6) Azul Condesa 68 Nuevo León; Tel: 5286-6380 

(7) La Botica Corner of Alfonso Reyes and Puerto Real; Tel: 5212-1167

Riviera Maya 

Riviera Maya 

Nestled between the white sand 

beaches along the eastern coast 

of Mexico, the Riviera Maya is a 

paradisiacal strip of land bordered by the 

turquoise blue waters of the Caribbean 

Sea. Surrounded by thousands of 

species of flora and fauna, it houses 

unique geological formations and hides 

extraordinary vestiges of the ancient 

Mayan civilization such as Coba and 

Tulum. 

It owns a unique and incomparable 

cosmopolitan atmosphere offering 

world class hotel infrastructure, top 

notch dining, shopping and nightlife 

to please the most demanding 

visitors. To complete the escape 

guests should experience the 

adventure in subterranean rivers, natural 

aquariums, swim with dolphins or 

slide on zip lines. 

Yucatan 

Yucatan 

Magical land where the past 

becomes the present every day, 

ancient land of eternal stories 

and wonders, of kind people and traditions 

that contrast with modernity. 

Its fascinating gastronomy, mixture of 

millenarian Mayan recipes and creole 

influence, opens an infinite range of 

possibilities for the palate. A place to 

lose oneself among the songs of birds 

and the music of snails that embellish 

the lyrics of its trova melodies. Yucatan 

is diverse; it carries its history all along 

its streets, its houses and museums. It 

owns impressive archaeological sites, 

like the great pyramid of Kukulkan, the 

monumental Uxmal and the mystic Ek 

Balam, as well as colonial cities, tropical 

forest and mysterious Cenotes. 

Campeche 

Campeche 

To experience the state of 

Campeche is to do more than 

just get in touch with the creative 

magic of the Mayan people; it is 

immersing yourself in an odyssey full 

of landscapes where water and vegetation, 

archaeological sites and colonial 

monuments abound. 

It is to enter into contact with a variety 

of flora and fauna and receive the warm 

hospitality of the campechanos themselves. 

Campeche’s cultural richness is 

determined by a fusion between Maya 

and Spanish which is the basis for 

tradition, folklore, music, customs and 

cuisine all of which can be considered 

unique in the world.

“ e FINANCIAL STABILITY of 

WEST VIRGINIA allows us 

to forecast and plan … 

The low cost of electricity provides a 

SIGNIFICANT COMPETITIVE 

Karl J. Boelter, Plant Manager 

DUPONT WASHINGTON WORKS Washington, W.Va. 

West Virginia Development Office WVDO.org 800.982.3386 

ADVANTAGE. It’s millions 

of dollars each year. ” 

See how 

West Virginia 

helps world-class 

businesses like 

DuPont succeed.

America’s Changing 

Energy Landscape 

New resources promise to change 

the way we think about power. 

FROM THE INTRODUCTION of new automotive fuels and propulsion 

systems to the development of new energy resources 

such as wind and solar energy, the face of energy across all of 

North America is changing rapidly. 

While many of today’s headlines surround the development 

of green energies, resources for more traditional 

energies such as oil and natural gas are being developed 

as well. The Athabasca oil sands in Canada, as well as the 

construction of a pipeline that will carry these tar sands to 

refineries on the Gulf Coast, will have a dramatic impact on 

U.S. energy in the very near future. 

Underlying New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio and West Virginia, 

Maryland and Virginia, the Marcellus Shale natural gas 

special advertising feature III Invest in the U.S. I Energy 

CATCH THE WIND Wind turbine in a wheatfield 

reserves are estimated to be in excess of 1.9 trillion cubic feet 

of natural gas. And while that is enough to make the region 

one of the largest natural gas producers on the planet, another 

benefit of the development of this deep ground resource is 

the production of ethane, which could be used as low-cost 

feeder stock for materials such as plastics and other chemicals. 

Indeed, the State of West Virginia is actively seeking to have a 

state-of-the-art “cracker” plant built within its borders. 

At some point – perhaps soon – it is likely that the United 

States no longer will be dependent upon the Middle East for 

energy, which will drastically change the geopolitical landscape. 

What emerging technologies or energy resources will come 

to the forefront? And how will it all impact our economy, let 

alone the environment? 

As with any revolutionary change, the future is not 

always clear. There are bound to be winners and losers. Here 

are some of the winners in the story of energy in the U.S., 

past and present. 

This Hemispheres special section is the first of a five-part series that focuses on industry 

sectors that are driving the U.S. economy. Entitled “Invest in the U.S.,” future sections 

will focus on technology, Wal-Mart, manufacturing and energy.

lanD 

in full 

color. 

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the Statue of Liberty and Ellis 

Island—welcomes you. Explore 

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destinationjerseycity.com 

Supported by a grant 

from New Jersey 

Department of State, 

Division of Travel 

and Tourism 

Invest in the U.S. I Energy III special advertising feature 

West Virginia’s 

Energy Strength 

When most people from outside of 

West Virginia think of the state, they 

usually think of the wild and wonderful 

mountains, whitewater raing on the 

Gauley or New Rivers, mountain biking, 

rock climbing and other eco-tourism 

activities. But West Virginia also has 

been an energy-producing state since 

before it joined the union in 1863. And 

most of that energy comes in the form 

of a reliable energy source that America 

has relied upon for centuries: coal. 

“We supply roughly the entire 

eastern third of the country with coal,” 

says Keith Burdee, West Virginia’s 

Secretary of Commerce. 

Coal, however, is not the only form 

of energy produced in this mountainous 

state. 

“We are also home to 

the largest wind power 

development in the 

Eastern United States,” 

says Burdee. “But it is 

only a small fraction of 

our energy production, 

not only in this state, but 

in our nation as a whole.” 

Every form of energy 

production has its downside, 

and wind energy, 

while perceived as being 

a very clean form of 

energy, does have its 

drawbacks. The turbines 

play havoc with birds, 

Burdee says. “Plus, in 

our state, because the 

turbines are so big and have to be placed 

up high on the mountains in order to 

work, people complain that they detract 

from the view,” Burdee adds. 

Underscoring the state’s energy 

dexterity, several large wind projects 

have been developed on former coal- 

KEITH BURDETTE Secretary of Commerce 

for the State of West Virginia 

WILD AND WONDERFUL West Virginia is 

home to the largest wind power development 

in the Eastern United States 

mining sites. 

“Reclaimed surface mine projects in 12 

counties have created more than 13,000 

jobs,” says Burdee. 

Mined lands have been redeveloped 

for schools, medical centers, malls, industrial 

parks and government facilities 

such as the FBI complex in Clarksburg, 

WV. Notably, the new permanent home 

of the National Scout Jamboree is transforming 

a prime post-mine site into a 

summer camp for more than 50,000 Boy 

Scouts near the New River Gorge. 

With all its eco-tourism, West Virginia 

is naturally interested in protecting 

its environment, as well as the many 

environments where coal is being 

consumed. There are 

many new emerging 

clean coal technologies, 

some of which are 

being developed at West 

Virginia University. 

Coal is also a lot safer 

and reliable than many 

energy sources. 

“You can say what 

you want about coal,” 

says Burdee. “But it’s 

abundant. It’s affordable. 

And it’s reliable. Rhetoric 

is cheap. But at the end of 

the day, people still want 

the lights to come on.” 

There is a new source 

of energy being tapped 

in West Virginia. It 

comes in the form of natural gas from 

the Marcellus Shale, an extensive 

deposit that underlies several states, 

including West Virginia. While West 

Virginia has always been a natural gas 

producing state, and the Marcellus 

Shale will only add to that production,

YOU CAN’T HOLD DOWN 

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Ranked 5TH IN THE NATION FOR JOB GROWTH, 

with strong growth PROJECTED THROUGH 2015. 

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CNN/Money Magazine, August 2010 

#1 FOR POPULATION GROWTH Out of the 

10 Largest Counties in Texas 

U.S. Census Bureau, 2010 

To receive more information about 

Fort Bend County, text FORT to 22333. 

FortBendCounty.com 

NOT YOUR TYPICAL 

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Invest in the U.S. I Energy III special advertising feature 

the real benefit will ultimately come from 

a byproduct of natural gas production 

called ethane. 

“That’s the real game changer,” says 

Burdee. “Ethane is the feeder stock for 

the production of a lot of different products, 

including chemicals and plastics.” 

By building a stable, low-tax environment 

for long-term business investment, 

West Virginia is now hoping that a new 

world-class ethane “cracker” plant will 

be built in the state. It’s a move that 

could bring tens of thousands of jobs 

to the state. The plant also will provide 

a low-cost and more energy efficient 

means of producing plastic and chemical 

products, which are used in everything 

from the automotive industry to everyday 

household products. 

“The competition for that plant is in full 

swing,” says Burdee. “We are competing 

well and are optimistic about our chances.” 

And for a lot of good reasons. Not only 

does West Virginia have good system of 

highways, rail and navigable rivers, it 

also has a history of working well with 

industry. It’s also built a very stable environment 

for business, having a balanced 

budget and cash reserves. 

“The fact is, we’re not raising taxes 

here, we’re lowering taxes,” says Burdee. 

“We’re not only lowering business 

income taxes, we’re eliminating business 

franchise taxes.” 

All of which makes the State of West 

Virginia an ideal location for responsible 

energy production well into the 

late 21st century. 

George H.W. Bush’s 

Energy Legacy 

As the 41st President of the United States, 

George Bush signed two major pieces of 

energy legislation. 

The first was the Clean Air Act Amendments 

of 1990, which was designed to curb 

threats to the nation’s environment and to 

the health of millions from acid rain, ur- 

ban air pollution and toxic air emissions. 

The proposal also established a national 

permits program to make the law more 

workable, and an improved enforcement 

program to help ensure beer compliance 

with the act. 

Signing the bill on Nov. 15, 1990, Bush 

said, “This legislation isn’t just the 

centerpiece of our environmental agenda. 

It is simply the most significant air pollution 

legislation in our nation’s history, and 

it restores America’s place as the global 

leader in environmental protection.” 

The second major piece of energy legislation 

enacted during Bush’s presidency 

was the Energy Policy Act of 1992. The act 

was designed to reduce U.S. dependence 

on imported petroleum and improve 

air quality by addressing all aspects of 

energy supply and demand, including 

alternative fuels, renewable energy and 

energy efficiency. 

Signing the act on Oct. 24, 1992, Bush 

said, “We must work to produce more of our 

energy here at home and import less from 

abroad. And our national strategy demands 

it. Future generations deserve it. And now 

we can make sure that it will be done.” 

Bush’s domestic agenda, energy 

policies, and his time as a Texas oil man 

can all be researched and explored at the 

George Bush Presidential Library and 

Museum in College Station, Texas. 

Energy Central: 

Fort Bend Co., TX 

Fortune 500 energy companies, high-tech 

research and development laboratories, 

and innovative energy start-ups all 

choose Texas’ premier address for energy: 

Fort Bend County. Fort Bend is in the 

southwestern part of the Greater Houston 

Metropolitan area, and is known not only 

by the companies it keeps, but also by the 

workforce talent it aracts. 

Fort Bend County is awarded unmatched 

accolades for its smart growth, 

business-friendly culture, and lifestyle 

LONESTARS From left, photos and artifacts from the 

Zapata Offshore Co. on display at the George Bush 

Presidential Library; Fluor in Fort Bend County 

amenities. Fort Bend’s leadership plans for 

the future with significant infrastructure 

upgrades, and award-winning masterplanned 

communities such as Cinco 

Ranch, Riverstone, Sienna Plantation and 

Telfair consistently rank as the very best 

in the country. 

Energy companies need unmatched 

infrastructure, global reach, and a 

highly trained workforce. Add a businessfriendly 

climate and superb quality of life 

amenities, and the case for choosing Fort 

Bend is clear. Convenience and proximity 

to multiple international airports – including 

Sugar Land Regional Airport, a fixed 

base operation airport with U.S. customs 

– three different rail systems and multiple 

transportation corridors give energy 

leaders immediate access to destinations 

around the globe. 

While oil and gas historically anchor 

the energy sector – for example, Fluor Corporation 

and Schlumberger Technology 

Corporation are the largest private sector 

employers in Fort Bend County – Fort 

Bend is home to a diverse cross-section of 

energy firms. 

Nalco Company’s Energy Services 

Division and Tyco Valves & Controls have 

pioneered new products via research and 

development. They join Puffer-Sweiven, 

National Oilwell Varco, Flextronics, Yokogawa 

Corporation, Hudson Products, 

FairfieldNodal, Champion Technologies, 

Noble Drilling Services, Thermo Process 

Instruments, Sunoco Logistics Partners, 

Suntron, Global Flow Technologies, 

and other firms providing products 

and services throughout the combined 

energy sectors. 

Interested in learning more about 

Fort Bend County? Call the Greater 

Fort Bend Economic Development 

Council at 281.242.0000 or visit www. 

FortBend County.com.

Costa Rica 

THE PALMS PRIVATE RESIDENCE CLUB 

Costa Rica’s most exclusive luxury private club on Playa 

Flamingo, the most prestigious beach on Costa Rica’s 

breathtaking Gold Coast. The Palms is a unique residence club 

where you can vacation as often as you like among gorgeous 

Villas just steps from the white sand beach with all the services 

and amenities you’d expect from a five-star resort. The Palms 

offers deeded beachfront ownership, infinity pool, fitness 

center, membership at a 7,400-yard Mike Young masterpiece 

golf course, and a global club reciprocity program. Contact us 

to book a special preview visit at a discounted rate and 

discover all the privileges of membership at The Palms Private 

Residence Club. 

Memberships starting at $129,000 

1-800-867-5762 or 011. 506.2654.5476 

info@palmscostarica.com 

www.palmscostarica.com


MileagePlus is growing. 

And so are your 

travel opportunities. 

Over 1,100 award destinations. 

Buenos Aires, Bermuda and Barcelona. Just a few of the exciting United award travel 

destinations, and more than 1,100 MileagePlus destinations worldwide. And with 

over 30 airline partners, thousands of participating hotels, car rentals, restaurants and 

retailers, it’s no wonder MileagePlus has been voted Best Frequent Flyer Program 

by seven years in a row. To learn more, go to mileageplus.com. 

The world’s most rewarding loyalty program. 

Includes destinations served by United Air Lines, Inc., 

Continental Airlines, Inc., United Express, Continental Express, 

Continental Connection and the Star Alliance Network.

Entertainment 

& Information 

ENTERTAINMENT 

126 DIRECTV® 

128 Film & Television 

132 Audio Programming 

134 Crossword 

136 Sudoku 

INFORMATION 

139 Route Maps 

144 Customs & Immigration 

145 Our Fleet 

146 Terminal Diagrams 

150 Safety & Travel Assistance 

152 MileagePlus 

153 Alliances & Partnerships 

160 Food & Beverages 

?

ENTERTAINMENT 

DIRECTV® 

What you want to watch 

OVER 100 CHANNELS 

You can get more than 100 of your 

favorite TV channels. Movies, sports, 

family programming—we have the best 

in entertainment. 

Your favorite TV channels 

INCLUDING: 

NETWORKS 

NEWS 

SPORTS 

ENTERTAINMENT 

FAMILY 

HOW TO USE 

1. Swipe your credit card* to begin. 

2. Select your channel or movie and start watching. 

3. Listen using your own headset or feel free to use 

the complimentary headset provided on board. Your 

purchase is good for the entire fl ight, even when the 

aircraft door is open before takeoff , and you can turn 

the TV on and off throughout your fl ight. 

* MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted. 

TV and movies are complimentary in First Class. 


DIRECTV® IS OUR LATEST UPGRADE, allowing you to select from 

more than 100 channels of live television along with blockbuster 

Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase 

DIRECTV® and stay entertained for your entire fl ight. 

Use your Continental Airlines Chase MasterCard and receive 

a special $2 discount. 

MOVIES 

Choose from four Hollywood movies: Harry 

Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 2, Nights 

in Rodanthe, The Island and Space Jam. Or, 

browse for movies on live TV. 

A&E 265 

ABC FAMILY 311 

ANIMAL 282 

BABY 293 

BBCA 264 

BET 329 

BIG TEN 610 

BIO 266 

BLOOMBERG 353 

BOOM 298 

BRAVO 237 

CARTOON 296 

CBS 390 

CENTRIC 330 

CHILLER 257 

CLOO 308 

CMT 327 

CNBC 355 

CNN 202 

COMEDY 249 

COOK 232 

C-SPAN 350 

C-SPAN2 351 

CW 394 

DISCOVERY 278 

DISNEY 290 

SATELLITE 

COVERAGE AREA 

Since the programming 

is live from DIRECTV®, 

a fl ight may take you out 

of the satellite coverage 

area. If this happens, 

prerecorded TV shows 

and movies will still be 

available. 

DISNEY XD 292 

DIY 230 

E! 236 

ESPN 206 

ESPN CLASSIC 614 

ESPN2 209 

ESPNEWS 207 

ESPNU 208 

FOOD 231 

FOX 398 

FOX BUSINESS 359 

FOX MOVIE 258 

FOX NEWS 360 

FOX SOCCER 619 

FUEL 618 

FX 248 

GALA 404 

GOL TV 426 

GOLF 218 

GOSPEL 338 

GREEN 286 

GSN 233 

HALLMARK 312 

HGTV 229 

H2 271 

HISTORY 269 

AND MORE! 

Never miss a play from inside the 20 on 

DIRECTV’s Red Zone Channel®, which 

brings you the fi nal yards of every scoring 

drive on one dedicated channel. 

HLN 204 

HUB 294 

INVESTIGATION 285 

LEARNING 280 

LIFETIME 252 

LIFETIME MOVIE 253 

LINK 375 

MILITARY 287 

MLB Network 213 

MOUNTAIN 616 

MSNBC 356 

MTV 331 

MTV2 333 

NAT GEO 276 

NBC 392 

NICK 299 

NICK JR 301 

NICK TOON 302 

NRB 378 

OUTDOOR 606 

OVATION 274 

OXYGEN 251 

QVC 275 

REDZONE 573 

SCIENCE 284 

SOAP 262 

Available on select 737 aircraft 

SPEED 607 

SPIKE 241 

SPORTSMAN 605 

STYLE 235 

SYFY 242 

TBS 247 

TEEN NICK 303 

TENNIS 217 

TNT 245 

TRAVEL 277 

TRUTV 246 

TURNER MOVIE 256 

TV GUIDE 273 

TV LAND 304 

TVG HORSE 602 

TWC 362 

UNI 402 

USA 242 

VERSUS 603 

VH1 335 

VH1 CLASSIC 337 

WGN 307 

WORD 373 

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on fl ights outside the continental United States. 

The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and Continental Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of 

nature, power failure, or any other cause. ©2011 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.


Creating a 

better flight plan. 

Building the world’s leading airline means centering it around you. The finest people in 

the industry providing superior service. World-class lounges and a modern aircraft fleet for 

reliability and comfort. And a frequent flyer program backed by an unparalleled route 

network means more rewards and more options. In other words, we’re building a better 

way to go. For information and reservations, go to united.com.

ENTERTAINMENT 

Film & Television 

ENJOY THESE MOVIES AND 

SHOWS ON THE MAIN SCREEN 

Films DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS WILL SHOW THE FOLLOWING MOVIES 

NORTH AMERICA 

HAWAII 

LATIN AMERICA 

& CARIBBEAN 


EASTBOUND WESTBOUND 

NOV 

1-15 Larry Crowne [T] Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T] 

NOV 

16-30 Monte Carlo [T] Life in a Day [T] 

NOV 

1-15 Monte Carlo [T] Life in a Day [T] 

NOV 

16-30 Larry Crowne [T] Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T] 

SOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND 

NOV 

1-15 Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T] Larry Crowne [T] 

NOV 

16-30 Life in a Day [T] Monte Carlo [T] 

• Flights between Chicago or Denver and Hawaii will show both fi lms. 

• Select fi lms are shown on fl ights within Micronesia and on intra-Asia fl ights on 737 aircraft. 

Television SELECT FLIGHTS MAY FEATURE THE FOLLOWING TELEVISION PROGRAMMING 

30 Rock [T] 

Rules of Engagement [T] 

Inside the Actors Studio [T] 

The Simpsons [T] 

Monk 

Hawaii Five-0 [T] 

The Big Bang Theory [T] 

The Offi ce [T] 

Suits [T] 

Rules of Engagement [T] 

Friday Night Lights [T] 

The Middle 

You may purchase a headset onboard Continental-operated 

fl ights for $3 and keep it for future travel. Applicable on all 

video-equipped fl ights of at least 1½ hours’ duration within 

the continental United States, Hawaii, Alaska and Canada, as 

well as to/from select destinations in Mexico, the Caribbean 

and the mid-Pacifi c. 

Headsets are 

complimentary on 

all aircraft equipped 

with DIRECTV®. 

FILMS ARE SHOWN on fl ights of three hours or 

longer. Movies are available on most 737, 747, 

757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft fl ights. 

Schedules and selections are subject to change. 

En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de 

televisión disponibles en Español. 

Suburgatory [T] 

Cash Cab 

Only in America With Larry the Cable Guy [T] 

Parks and Recreation [T] 

30 Rock [T] 

The Big Bang Theory [T] 

[T] = Adult themes

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED for 

airline use. However, customer 

discretion is still advised. Content 

guidelines are provided as a courtesy 

to help our customers decide 

whether to view a fi lm. 

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME to view 

their own video entertainment aboard 

a United aircraft as long as they are 

able to show that the programming 

has an MPAA rating of “R” or less. 

Larry Crowne [T] 

Having lost his job to corporate downsizing, Larry Crowne 

(Tom Hanks) heads to a local college to start over. There, he 

fi nds camaraderie among a colorful group of outcasts—and 

a romantic interest in the form of his teacher (Julia Roberts). 

FEATURING Tom Hanks, Julia Roberts, Sarah Mahoney 

DIRECTED BY Tom Hanks 

Monte Carlo [T] 

After embarking on their dream vacation to Paris, three 

young Americans become entangled in a case of mistaken 

identity and soon fi nd themselves leading the high life—and 

falling in love—in glamorous Monte Carlo. 

FEATURING Selena Gomez, Katie Cassidy, Leighton Meester 

DIRECTED BY Thomas Bezucha 

1 hr. 

38 min. 

1 hr. 

49 min. 

WHAT DO YOU THINK of our 

programming? We’re open to 

suggestions. Please send them 

to play@united.com or visit 

united.com/play. 

Life in a Day [T] 

Created from some 4,500 hours of footage submitted by 

YouTube users, this remarkable documentary chronicles 

July 24, 2010, as it was experienced by individuals living in 

nearly 200 countries. Exhilarating, moving and funny, Life in 

a Day is the story of our world—told by us. 

DIRECTED BY Kevin Macdonald 

Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T] 

Medical researchers unwittingly set off an epic battle 

between man and beast as one of their genetically enhanced 

test subjects, a chimp named Caesar, uses his heightened 

intelligence to lead other apes in a fi ght for freedom. 

FEATURING James Franco, Andy Serkis, Freida Pinto 

DIRECTED BY Rupert Wyatt 

1 hr. 

30 min. 

1 hr. 

45 min. 


ENTERTAINMENT 

Film & Television 

THE FOLLOWING FILMS ARE AVAILABLE 

ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS 

B747 Mainscreen Programming 

U.K. 

GERMANY 

AUSTRALIA 

JAPAN & 

SOUTH KOREA 

*JAPAN FLIGHTS ONLY 

CHINA & 

HONG KONG 

THAILAND 

& TAIWAN 

*THAILAND FLIGHTS ONLY 


FROM U.S. TO U.S. 

Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T] 1 hr., 45 min. 

Life in a Day [T] 1 hr., 30 min. 

2 hr. 

Captain America: The First Avenger [T] 2 hr., 1 min. 

2 hr. 

Rise of the Planet of the Apes (G) [T] 1 hr., 45 min. 

Life in a Day (G) [T] 1 hr., 30 min. 

2 hr. 

Captain America: The First Avenger (G) [T] 2 hr., 1 min. 

Cars 2 (G) 1 hr., 46 min. 

2 hr. 

Larry Crowne [T] 1 hr., 38 min. 

2 hr. 

Monte Carlo [T] 1 hr., 49 min. 

Mr. Popper’s Penguins 1 hr., 37 min. 

2 hr. 

Zookeeper [T] 1 hr., 42 min. 

2 hr. 

Larry Crowne (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 38 min. 

Monte Carlo (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 49 min. 

2 hr. 

Mr. Popper’s Penguins (J) 1 hr., 37 min. 

2 hr. 

Zookeeper (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 42 min. 

2 hr. 

Larry Crowne (C) [T] 1 hr., 38 min. 

Monte Carlo (C) [T] 1 hr., 49 min. 

2 hr. 

Mr. Popper’s Penguins (C) 1 hr., 37 min. 

Zookeeper (C) [T] 1 hr., 42 min. 

2 hr. 

Larry Crowne [T] 1 hr., 38 min. 

Monte Carlo [T] 1 hr., 49 min. 

2 hr. 

Mr. Popper’s Penguins 1 hr., 37 min. 

2 hr. 

Larry Crowne (G) [T] 1 hr., 38 min. 

Monte Carlo (G) [T] 1 hr., 49 min. 

2 hr. 

Mr. Popper’s Penguins (G) 1 hr., 37 min. 

Zookeeper (G) [T] 1 hr., 42 min. 

2 hr. 

(K) Korean 

(G) German 

(C) Chinese 

(J) Japanese 

Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T] 1 hr., 45 min. 

Life in a Day [T] 1 hr., 30 min. 

Captain America: The First Avenger [T] 2 hr., 1 min. 

2 hr. 

Cars 2 1 hr., 46 min. 

4 hr. 

Rise of the Planet of the Apes (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 45 min. 

Life in a Day (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 30 min. 

2 hr. 

Captain America: The First Avenger (J, K) [T] 2 hr., 1 min. 

Cars 2 (J, K) 1 hr., 46 min. 

2 hr. 

2 hr.* 

Rise of the Planet of the Apes (C) [T] 1 hr., 45 min. 

Life in a Day (C) [T] 1 hr., 30 min. 

2 hr. 

Captain America: The First Avenger (C) [T] 2 hr., 1 min. 

Cars 2 (C) 1 hr., 46 min. 

2 hr. 

FROM JAPAN TO JAPAN 

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (J, C) [T] 

2 hr., 10 min. 

Something Borrowed* (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 52 min. 

2 hr. 

INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte 

Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). 

(J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および3番でお聴き 

いただけます。(一部英語音声のみとなります。) (C) 如果可 

用,在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 

더빙버전이 제공됩니다 

Kung Fu Panda 2 (J, C) 1 hr., 31 min. 

Midnight in Paris* (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 40 min. 

2 hr. 

2 hr. = Two-hour block of television 

[T] = Adult themes

DIGITAL MEDIA LOADING occurs between 

the 25th of one month and the 5th of 

the following month. As a result, please 

understand if your fl ight features a 

diff erent lineup before or after the start 

of each month. 

Captain America: The First Avenger [T] 

Army scientists transform a scrawny but brave GI (Chris 

Evans) into a “super soldier” who takes on the Nazis. 

FEATURING Chris Evans, Tommy Lee Jones, Hugo Weaving 

DIRECTED BY Joe Johnston 

Kung Fu Panda 2 

Po’s new life is threatened by the emergence of a formidable 

villain who plans to use a secret weapon to destroy kung fu. 

VOICES BY Jack Black, Angelina Jolie, Gary Oldman 

DIRECTED BY Jennifer Yuh 

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] 

Captain Jack crosses paths with a former fl ame on her way 

to the Fountain of Youth, and ends up in trouble yet again. 

FEATURING Johnny Depp, Penelope Cruz, Geoff rey Rush 

DIRECTED BY Rob Marshall 

2 hr. 

1 min. 

1 hr. 

31 min. 

2 hr. 

10 min. 

Cars 2 

A shot at the World Grand Prix title lures Lightning McQueen 

and his pal Mater into international adventures. 

VOICES BY Owen Wilson, Larry the Cable Guy, John Turturro 

DIRECTED BY John Lasseter/Brad Lewis 

Mr. Popper’s Penguins 

Jim Carrey plays a workaholic divorcé who’s clueless about 

family—that is, until six little penguins waddle into his life. 

FEATURING Jim Carrey, Carla Gugino, Angela Lansbury 

DIRECTED BY Mark Waters 

Zookeeper [T] 

When a zookeeper (Kevin James) decides he needs a more 

glamorous job to land a girlfriend, the animals are not pleased. 

FEATURING Kevin James, Rosario Dawson, Leslie Bibb 

DIRECTED BY Frank Coraci 

1 hr. 

46 min. 

1 hr. 

37 min. 

1 hr. 

42 min. 


ENTERTAINMENT 

Audio 

Programming 

Audio Mixes 

Featuring songs by Roy 

Orbison, Cream, Fleetwood 

Mac and more 

Featuring a chronology of 

Michael Jackson songs 

Featuring songs by DJ Fresh, 

David Guetta, Duck Sauce 

and more 

Featuring songs by Johnny 

Pacheco, Sergio Mendes 

and more 

Featuring songs by Miley 

Cyrus, Justin Bieber, Selena 

Gomez and more 


Featuring songs by Meat Loaf, 

Toto, Cheap Trick and more 

Featuring compositions 

performed by orchestras from 

New York to Stuttgart 

Featuring songs by Joss 

Stone, Snow Patrol, Josh 

Groban and more 

Featuring songs by Paramore, 

Foo Fighters, Sublime With 

Rome and more 

Featuring songs by 

Adele, Beyoncé, Lady 

Gaga and more 


Duran Duran, Tiff any, 

Starship and more 

Featuring songs by Martina 

McBride, Trace Adkins, Toby 

Keith and more 

Featuring songs by Ella 

Fitzgerald, Julie London, 

George Benson and more 

Featuring songs by Akon, 

Jordin Sparks, John Legend 

and more 

Featuring songs by Femi Kuti, 

Annie Trousseau, Balkan Beat 

Box and more 

Featuring songs by Brian 

Eno, Enya, Runestone 

and more 

Featuring Chinese popular 

music including cantopop 

and mandopop 


Exile, AKB48, Sukima 

Switch and more 

Featuring songs by Elvis 

Presley, Bobby Darin, 

the Shirelles and more

Audio Channels by Aircra 

CHANNEL 777* 

1 

Movie 

(English) 

SELECT 

A320 

Movie 

(English) 

A319 

& A320 

Movie 

(English) 

2 Today’s hits Today’s hits Today’s hits 

3 R&B R&B R&B 

747 

Movie 

(English) 

Movie 

(Dubbed) 

Movie 

(Dubbed) 

737 

& 757-300 

Movie 

(English) 

757 & 767* 

Movie 

(English) 

Today’s hits Today’s hits 

R&B R&B 

4 Classical ’60s Classical Classical Classical Classical 

5 Country Country Country Country Country Country 

6 ’60s Classical — ’60s ’60s ’60s 

7 ’70s ’70s — ’70s ’70s ’70s 

8 ’80s ’80s — ’80s ’80s ’80s 

9 

10 

From the 

fl ight deck 

Movie 

(Dubbed) 

From the 

fl ight deck 

Movie 

(Dubbed) 

From the 

fl ight deck 

Movie 

(Dubbed) 

From the fl ight 

deck or R&B 

Today’s hits 

— 

Movie 

(Dubbed) 

From the 

fl ight deck or 

modern rock 

Movie 

(Dubbed) 

11 Modern rock Modern rock ’60s Teen pop Modern rock — 

12 Latin Latin ’70s World 

Latin or J-pop 

on Micronesia 

fl ights 

13 Dance Dance ’80s J-pop — — 

14 Ambient Ambient Modern rock C-pop — — 

15 Artist spotlight Artist spotlight Artist spotlight — — — 

16 Jazz — — — — — 

17 J-pop — — — — — 

18 Easy listening — — — — — 

19 Teen pop — — — — — 

*For aircraft with seatback entertainment, please refer to the Play guide for audio selections. 

CHANNEL 9 Listen for your fl ight number to hear live 

communication between the fl ight deck and FAA air traffi c 

control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available 

on all fl ights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio 

communication. Available at your captain’s discretion. 


—

ENTERTAINMENT 

Crossword 

OPPOSITES ATTRACT 

BY GREG BRUCE 


ACROSS 

1 Apostolical 

6 Physics calculation 

10 Retire from 

military service 

15 “Say ___!” 

19 Without company 

20 Atop 

21 In the know 

22 Place for an ace 

23 Small sample 

24 Widespread 

25 Excellence 

26 Look at fl irtatiously 

27 Curling surface 

28 Drug 

30 Fella 

32 Young Egyptian king 

33 Creole vegetable 

35 Part of w.p.m. 

36 Reiterate 

40 Game tally 

42 Sprite 

44 First-rate 

45 Bath alternative 

46 “It’s your ___” 

48 All fi red up 

49 G-rated 

50 Cart 

51 Small stream 

54 ___ and tie 

55 Seethe 

56 Lasso loop 

57 Varnish ingredient 

58 Object of devotion 

62 Stumble 

63 Program that runs in the 

background 

66 Shows appreciation to 

69 Paris’ ___ La Fayette 

70 Calphalon product 

71 Arctic ___ 

72 Host 

73 Graffi ti, to some 

74 A pint, maybe 

75 Eye bank donation 

77 Nikon or Canon 

78 Winter bug 

79 Elusive creature 

81 Bubkes 

82 Had control of 

the wheel 

84 “Cut it out!” 

85 Lace mat 

87 Frogmen 

89 Still-life piece 

90 Bad way to play 

91 Bird of peace 

92 Joined by treaty or 

agreement 

94 Went boldly 

96 Sandwich go-to 

97 Infl exible 

98 Box 

99 Breakfast cereal 

101 Large vat 

102 Band member 

106 Monopolize 

107 Mouth part 

109 Summer wear 

112 Bother 

113 Clickable image 

115 “Likewise” 

118 Hourglass fi ller 

119 Get off one’s behind 

121 “Beat it!” 

122 Great fear 

123 Fertilizer compound 

124 ’60s protest 

125 Darn 

126 Marsh plant 

127 Whirling water 

128 Out of gas 

DOWN 

1 Place for a barbecue 

2 “Dear me!” 

3 Model 

4 Picnic crasher 

5 Popular jeans 

6 Manslayer 

7 Queen’s home 

8 Overly lenient 

9 Contemptuous look 

10 Beaver’s work 

11 Lamb’s kin 

12 Aggie, for one 

13 Projecting window 

14 Phi ___ Kappa 

15 Reporter’s question 

16 Old Toronto nickname 

17 Charm 

18 Move unsteadily 

29 Like some proportions 

31 Groom’s man 

34 Run ___ of 

37 Overhangs 

38 Bowl with a lid 

39 Cut off 

41 Cousin of a raccoon 

43 Be bedridden 

45 City ___ 

46 Bach piece 

47 Cafeteria workers’ wear 

48 Soon, to a poet 

49 Last ___ 

52 Lacking in courage 

53 Not a soul 

54 Clink 

55 Make good on 

59 Conscript 

60 “___ ___ in the Attic” 

museum, Amsterdam 

61 Slow down 

63 Elmer, to Bugs 

64 Highly poisonous 

plant species 

65 Spookily 

67 Throw with eff ort 

68 Caribbean or 

Mediterranean, e.g. 

76 Extras 

77 Place to moor a boat 

80 Dostoyevsky novel, 

with “The” 

83 Competitor 

84 Prompt 

86 Command 

88 Sabbatum 

89 Little toymaker 

90 Soldier in the mounted 

infantry, once 

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD 

If you fi ll in the crossword, please take 

the magazine with you so it’s replaced. 

Answers found on page 60. 

91 Directly 

93 Fluff 

94 Discord can lead to this 

95 Cough drop 

96 Like some ottomans 

97 Pelted with rocks 

99 Wavelike pattern 

100 Matter of debate 

103 Join forces 

104 Place to wash up 

105 Ticket seller 

108 “What are the ___?” 

110 Like a diamond 

111 Back talk 

114 Doze (off ) 

116 It’s game 

117 “___ to Billie Joe” 

120 Upholstery problem 

CROSSWORD BY GREG BRUCE © PUZPUZ PUZZLES

THE LEADERS IN 

TM 

CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME 

U.S and foreign patients travel to the world renowned Brown Hand Center TM across America, 

inventors of The Brown Procedure® Endoscopic Carpal Tunnel Release and leaders in Hand/Upper extremity care. 

OPEN CARPAL TUNNEL 

First described in 1947 

NORMAL tissue layers are sliced through in 

order to divide the transverse carpal ligament 

Stitches for closure of wound 

Often, a painful scar results that can be permanent 

Recovery can take 6 weeks to 6 months or NEVER 

Considered by many to be antiquated, The Brown Procedure 

has been reported to be “treatment of choice” 

Since 1988, BROWN HAND CENTER has been the destination of choice for patients from around the world who expect world-class comfort and care. 

BROWN HAND CENTER is where The Brown Procedure was developed and where so many published medical journal articles originated, answering 

questions others could only ask. BROWN HAND CENTER is the leader in carpal tunnel treatment, as well as all problems affecting the hand and upper 

extremity, such as arthritic joint problems, injuries and secondary reconstruction, replantation of amputated parts, and congenital birth deformities. When 

possible, the approach is minimally invasive to reduce patient pain, suffering and recovery time. The Brown Endoscopic Trigger Release (BETR) is another of 

the many innovations from Brown Hand Center used to treat a common problem, trigger finger. Similar to The Brown Procedure, The BETR utilizes two 

tiny skin openings to insert instrumentation (designed by Michael G. Brown, MD) to divide the A1 pulley, rather than cutting through normal tissue 

layers. This “minimally invasive” approach at BROWN HAND CENTER has allowed countless thousands of patients to return to normal activity in a 

relatively short period following an outpatient procedure. Many have returned home, thousands of miles away to other countries, the following day. 

Brown Hand Center 

800.214.4263 (HAND) 

Nationwide Locations 

 

 

Austin 

At BROWN HAND CENTER, we maintain a philosophy of respect and kindness that guides everything 

we do. Often taken for granted, as we take our sight or hearing for granted, the hands are among the most 

complex parts of the body and loss of use is sorely missed and irreparable damage may be sustained if 

specialized care is not received. We want you to receive specialized care from the beginning, not just after 

a complication. 

BROWN HAND CENTER physicians, specialists in hand and upper extremity care, are available 24/7. 

From children born with congenital birth deformities, sports injuries, to arthritis and other intrinsic 

diseases of the hand...Brown Hand Center’s Hand and Microvascualr surgeons are LEADERS IN NOT 

ONLY HAND, BUT ALSO WRIST, ARM, ELBOW AND SHOULDER PROBLEMS. The emphasis 

is always on a minimally invasive approach, when possible, to minimize discomfort and recovery time. 

BROWN HAND CENTER’S ideal is to make available to all the specialized care of a highly skilled and 

trained hand/microvascular surgeon and to help others understand this specialized field. BROWN 

HAND CENTER’S message is seen in television and magazine ads worldwide. 

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PERU 

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9:00 am 

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GREENLAND 

to 

San Francisco 

to 

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to 

Denver 

to 

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to 

New York 

(Newark) 

to to 

New York New York 

(La Guardia) (Newark) 

PARAGUAY 

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HOUSTON 

to 

(INTERCONTINENTAL) 

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Hermosillo 

San 

Austin 

(Dulles) 

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Kingston 

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PACIFIC OCEAN 

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NORWAY 

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4:00 

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6:00 pm 

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INDIA 

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MALI 

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CHAD 

1:00 pm 

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SUDAN 

FASO 

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BENIN 

NIGERIA 

TOGO 

Cotonou 

Abuja 

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Juba 

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& PRINCIPE 

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Lubumbashi 

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Oslo 

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to Anchorage 

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INFORMATION 

Customs 

& Immigration 

U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record 

All travelers who hold a U.S. visa are required to complete 

an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including 

infants). Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include 

the street name and number, city and state of your address in 

the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write 

TRANSIT and your fi nal destination country. The Customs 

and Border Protection offi cer will place the I-94 Departure 

Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you 

return the Departure Record to the airline representative 

before boarding your return fl ight. 

U.S. Customs Declaration 

All passengers (or one passenger per family) are required 

to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. 

Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street 

name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If 

you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT 

and your fi nal destination country. Please read both sides of the 

declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form. 

Expedited Passport Control and Customs 

Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry 

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) off ers the Global 

Entry program in order to expedite the processing of preapproved, 

low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon 

returning from international travel, Global Entry-enrolled travelers 

may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed 

to the Global Entry kiosk. Global Entry program participants 

scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident 

card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fi ngertips on the scanner 

for fi ngerprint verifi cation and make a customs declaration. 

The kiosk will issue the traveler a transaction receipt and direct 

the traveler to baggage claim and exit. 

The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry: 

• Citizens and residents of the U.S. 

• Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa 

• Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium 

• NEXUS members 

• SENTRI members 

Application for enrollment in the Global Entry program is 

available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System (GOES): 

goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov. It costs only US$100, which covers 

enrollment in the program for a fi ve-year period. The 

government will review the applicant’s information while a 

background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo 

an interview with CBP offi cers at an Enrollment Center in the 

U.S. before fi nal approval is granted. 

Global Entry is available in the following cities: Atlanta 

(ATL), Boston (BOS), Chicago (ORD-O’Hare), Dallas 

(DFW), Detroit (DTW), Ft. Lauderdale (FLL), Honolulu 

(HNL), Houston (IAH-Intercontinental), Las Vegas 

(LAS), Los Angeles (LAX), Miami (MIA), New York (JFK), 

Newark (EWR-Liberty), Orlando (MCO-International and 

SFB-Sanford), Ottawa (YOW), Philadelphia (PHL), Seattle 

(SEA), San Francisco (SFO), San Juan (SJU), Toronto (YYZ), 

Washington, DC (IAD-Dulles) and Vancouver (YVR). 

For detailed information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border 

Protection site, globalentry.gov. 


DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY OMB No. 1651-0111 

U.S. Customs and Border Protection 

Welcome to the United States 

I-94 Arrival/Departure Record 

Instructions 

This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, 

aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. 

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the 

back of this form. 

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and 

the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). 

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. 

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are 

entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, 

including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to 

give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The 

information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes 

or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless 

otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the 

United States and result in your removal. 

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) 

OMB No. 1651-0111 

Arrival Record 

Admission Number 

000000000 00 

1. Family Name 

2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 

4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) 

8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 

10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 

12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 

15. City and State 

16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 

17. Email Address 

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY 

U.S. Customs and Border Protection 

Departure Record 

Admission Number 

000000000 00 

18. Family Name 

See Other Side 

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) 

OMB No. 1651-0111 

19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 

21. Country of Citizenship 

Left, U.S. Customs Declaration; right, U.S. I-94 form, which all 

U.S. visa holders must complete. 

Andorra 

Australia 

Austria 

Belgium 

Brunei 

Czech Republic 

Denmark 

Estonia 

Finland 

France 

Germany 

Greece 

Hungary 

Australia 

Brunei 

Hong Kong 

(SAR; with HKG 

identity card) 

Japan 

Countries participating in the U.S. 

Visa Waiver Program (VWP): 

Iceland 

Ireland 

Italy 

Japan 

Latvia 

Liechtenstein 

Lithuania 

Luxembourg 

Malta 

Monaco 

Netherlands 

New Zealand 

Norway 

Malaysia 

Nauru 

New Zealand 

Papua New Guinea 

Singapore 

South Korea 

Portugal 

San Marino 

Singapore 

Slovakia 

Slovenia 

South Korea 

Spain 

Sweden 

Switzerland 

United Kingdom 

(British citizen 

or with unrestricted 

right of abode) 

Countries participating in the Guam-CNMI 

Visa Waiver Program (VWP): 

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) 

STAPLE HERE 

Taiwan 

(direct fl ight to 

Guam with passport 

and national ID card) 

United Kingdom 

(including BNO)

Our Fleet 

787 UPDATE 

United has always been at the forefront of aviation developments; the fi rst airline to operate 

both the 767 and 777, United will also be the fi rst North American airline to put into service the 

revolutionary Boeing 787 Dreamliner. 

The 787’s innovative design will provide an unrivaled level of comfort. Larger windows off er a 

view to the horizon from any seat on the airplane, while a quieter cabin helps passengers feel less 

fatigued when they arrive at their fi nal destination. Sweeping arches arc and more natural light create 

a feeling of spaciousness. Additionally, the overhead bins are the largest in the industry, enabling 

every passenger to fi t a standard-size carry-on bag inside them. 

Fleet Facts 

AIRCRAFT 747-400 777-200/ 

-200ER 

767-200ER/ 

-300ER/ 

-400ER 

757-200/ 

-300 

737-500/ 

-700/-800/ 

-900/-900ER 

A319/A320 

CRUISE SPEED 567 mph 550 mph 540 mph 540 mph 530 mph 530 mph 

CAPACITY 374 passengers 

(12/52/310) 

PROPULSION Four Pratt & 

Whitney PW4062 

turbofan engines, 

rated up to 

63,300 pounds 

thrust each 

Between 253 and 

348 passengers 

(10/45/198) 

(12/49/197) 

(8/40/221) 

(50/226) 

(36/312) 

Two General 

Electric GE90 

or two Pratt 

& Whitney 

PW4077/4090 


rated up to 94,000 

pounds thrust each 



(25/149) 

(6/26/151) 

(35/200) 

(34/210) 

Two General 

Electric CF6- 

80C2B or Pratt & 

Whitney PW4060 


rated up to 

63,300 pounds 

thrust each 



(12/26/72) 

(16/159) 

(24/158) 

(24/192) 

Two Rolls-Royce 

RB211-535 or two 

Pratt & Whitney 

PW2040 turbofan 

engines, rated up 

to 43,700 pounds 

thrust each 



(8/106) 

(12/112) 

(16/144) 

(20/153) 

Two General 

Electric CFM56 


rated up to 

26,400 pounds 

thrust each 



(8/112) 

(12/126) 

(12/132) 

Two IAE 

V2500-A5 


rated up to 

27,000 pounds 

thrust each 

WINGSPAN 211 ft., 5 in. 199 ft., 11 in. Up to 170 ft., 4 in. 134 ft., 9 in. Up to 117 ft., 5 in. 111 ft., 11 in. 

PRODUCT INVESTMENT United recently announced an investment of more than $500 million to enhance our customers’ fl ying 

experience. We plan to roll out more fl at-bed seats in our United First and United Business cabins, further solidifying our position as 

the North American carrier with the most fl at-bed seats. In addition, we will be adding Wi-Fi to more than 200 Boeing 737 and 757 

aircraft as well as expanding Economy Plus across the entire mainline fl eet. 


INFORMATION 

Terminal Diagrams 

IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT 

TERMINAL A 

(North Concourse) 

Continental Connection 

Air Canada 

A14 

A12 

A10 

Bus Station (A2) 

A2 A1 

A26 A25 

A15 

A11 

A9 

A8 

A7 

A17 

A18 

A24 

A19 

A20 

TERMINAL A 

(South Concourse) 

US Airways 

P4 

B80 

B81A 

B81 

B83A 

B83 

B79A B79 

B77A 

B77 

B76A 

B76 

B68 

B69 

B70 

B71 

B71A 

TERMINAL B 

Continental Express 

United Express 

Station 

B86A 

B87 

B88 


B86 

B85A 

B85 B84A-S 

C27 

TerminaLink 

Connects Terminals 

A, B, C, D, & E via train 

(Lower Level) 

B67 

B75 

B60 B66 

B74 

B61 

B65 

B73 

B62 B64 

B72A 

B62A B63A 

B72 

B63 

C29 

TERMINAL A 


United 


Air Canada 

US Airways 

A3 

A2 

A1 

P1, P2, P3 

North 

Concourse 

C26 

C25 

Station 

C24 

C30 

C31 

C32 

C33 

South 

Concourse 

EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

TERMINAL C 

B3 

B2 

B1 

TERMINAL B 

Continental International Arrivals 

EVA Air 

LOT Polish Airlines 

Lufthansa 

Scandinavian Airlines 

Singapore Airlines 

SWISS 

TAP Portugal 

AirTrain 

Virgin Atlantic 

Newark Liberty International Airport 

Station — Connection with Amtrak 

and New Jersey Transit 

28/28A 

20/20A 

27/27A 

23/23A 

17 

16 

26/26A/26X 

25/25A 

24/24A 

TERMINAL C 

Continental 

United 


C18 

C19 C17 

C20 C16 

C21 C15 

C22 C14 

C23 

C43 

C34 C42 

C35 C41 

C36 C40 

C37 

C39 

USO 

D1 

D2 

D3 

(Lower Level) 

C44 

C45 

TERMINAL C 

Continental 

Continental International Arrivals 


128 

139 

138 

137 

136 

135 

134 

133 

127 

126 

125 

124 

123 

122 

121120 

132 

131 

130 

TERMINAL D 

Continental 

Lufthansa 


D4A 

D4 

D5 

D6 

E1 

E2 

E3 

E4 

E5 

112 

110 

108 

104 

102 

E6 

E9 

E8 

E7 

E10 

E11 

D6A 

D7 

D8 

D9 

D10 

D11 

D12 

International 

Arrivals 

E12 

TERMINAL E 

Continental 

Station 

E14 

E15 

E16 

E17 

E18 

E19 

111 

109 

105 

101 

70 

88 

(Upper Level) 

72 

98 

96 

94 

92 

91 

97 

95 

80 

81 83 85 

90 

82 84 86 

87 

71 

73 74 

115 

99 

114 113 

107 

103 

75 

(Lower Level) 

Continental Express flights may arrive/depart at Terminal C. 

E24 

E23 

E22 

E21 

E20

ORD | CHICAGO/O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

TERMINAL 3 

Continental 

United 


Concourse K 

Concourse L 

Concourse G 

Concourse H 

Concourse M 

78 

79 77 

76 

Concourse F 

TERMINAL 3 

TERMINAL 5 

International 

United, ANA, Asiana Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, 

Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines 

Gates 60-67 

68 

71 

TERMINAL 2 

80 

82 

84 

86 

81 

83 

72 

Shuttle 

(Lower 

88 

85 

90 87 

89 

75 

Secure 

Walkway G92 

G94 

G96 

G98 

Level) 

G100 

G91 

G102 

G93 

G101 

G95 

G99 

G97 

Concourse E 

Concourse C 

C2 

C1 C4C6C8C10 

C3 

C5 

C7 

C9 C12C16 

C11 

B2 C15 

C18 

C18A 

B1 

C17 

C20 

C19 C22 

C21 C24 

C23 

C26 

C25 

C28 

C30 

C27 

C32 

C29 

C31 

Elevated Airport 

Transport System 

Concourse B 

TERMINAL 1 

Continental 

(Gates B1-B4) 

United 


ANA 

Lufthansa 

B3 F14 

F12 

F11 F10 

F9 F8F6 

E10 

F7 

F5 

F4 

E3 

F3 E2A 

E2 

F2 

E1A 

F1 E1 

B4 

B5B6B7B8 

(Lower Level) 

B9 

B10B11 

TERMINAL 2 


B12 

Air Canada 

US Airways 

B13 

B14 

B15 

B16 

B17 

B18 

B19 

B20 

B22 B21 

INTERNATIONAL 

TERMINAL 

Gates 40-48 

United, Air Canada, Air China, 

Air New Zealand, ANA, 

Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa, 

Singapore Airlines, SWISS 

Gates A1-A12 

TE R M I N A L 1 

US Airways 

Gates 20-36 

Concourse B 

Continental 

United 


US Airways 

B15 B17B19B21B23B25B27B29 

B16 B18B20B22 

Concourse A 

Air Canada 

Lufthansa 

C28-C39 C40-C50 

B24 B31 

B26 

B33 

B28 B35 

B30 

B37 

B32 

B34 

B36 

A24-A39 A40-A53 

TERMINAL 

WEST 

Concourse C 

Continental 

United 


Train 

C2-4 C6-8 C10-14 C18-26 C28-30 

Train 

B39 B41B43B45B47B49B51B53 

B38 

B42 B44 

B46 B48B50B52 

Pedestrian 

Bridge 

TERMINAL 

EAST 

C1-3 C5-7 C9-11 C17-27 

D1-7 D9-11 

A2 A4 A6 

A14 A22 A25 A32 

A1 A3 A5 

Concourse A 



Copa Airlines 

South African Airways 


A15 A21 

Concourse C 

B55 

B57 B59 

A58-A68 

B35-B51 

B54 

B56 

B58 

B60 

B61 B63 

B65 

B67 

B69 

B71 

SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT IAD | WASHINGTON/DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

Z Gates 

US Airways 

1-4 

D2-8 

MAIN TERMINAL 

D10-16 

Shuttle Bus 

B80 

B82 

B84 

B86 

B81 

B83 

B85 

B87 

B73 

B75 

B79 


B77 

B88 

B90 

B92 

B94 

Concourse D 

Continental 

United 


D18-26 D28-32 

D15-21 D23-29 

B38-B48 

B63-B79 

B89 

B91 

Concourse B 

ANA 

Austrian 

Lufthansa 


Turkish Airlines 

B93 

B95

Terminal Diagrams CONT’D 

LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

TERMINAL 3 

TO M B RA D L EY 

INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL 

ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, 

Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, 

THAI, Turkish Airlines 

TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 1 

Air Canada 

US Airways 

Air China 

Air New Zealand 


12 

8 

4B 

61 

71A 

60 

70A 

63 

62 

71B 

70B 

65 

64 73 

67A 66 

72 

75A 

67B 68A 

75B 74 

69A 68B 

69B 77 76 

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 6 TERMINAL 7 TERMINAL 8 

Continental 

United 

Copa Airlines 


United 


80 

81 

82 

83 

84 

85 

86 

87 

88 

United 


CLE | CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

C18 C17 

C16 

C19 

C20 

C21 

C22 

C23 

C24 

D10 

D12 

D11 

D14 

D17 

C14 

C29 

C25 C27 

C26 

D9 

D8 D7 

D21 

Concourse C 

Continental 


United 


Air Canada 

C11 C9 C7 C5 

C3 

C10 C8 C6 C4 

Underground Tunnel 

D3 D2 

D6 

D5 D4 

D25 

D28 

C2 

(Lower Level) 

Concourse D 



US Airways and some Continental international 

flights arrive at Concourse A. 

NRT | TOKYO/NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT LHR | LONDON/HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

Gates 

E1-E26 

Pier E 

TERMINAL 2 

Sky Line Train 

Gates 

D1-D54 

Pier D 

Gates 

C1-C9 

Fourth Floor 

43 42 

44 

41 

37 35 33 31 

45 

38 36 34 

32 

46 47 

TERMINAL 1 

Continental 

United 

Air Canada 

South Wing 

Air China 

ANA 

53 52 

51 

Asiana Airlines 

Austrian 

54 

EGYPTAIR 

55 

Lufthansa 


56 


SWISS 

57 

THAI 


58 

Pier C 

Continental 

United 

Aegean Airlines 

Adria Airways 

Air Canada 

Air China 

ANA 


Third Floor 

27 26 

B47 

B46 

B48 

B45 B42 

B44 

B43 

B1-B41 

B27 

B26 

B28 

B23 B25 

B24 

B22 

B10-B20 

Pier B 

25 

TERMINAL 1 

Austrian 

Croatia Airlines 

EGYPTAIR 


Lufthansa 



Satellite 2 

24 

23 

21 

Air New Zealand flights 

arrive/depart at Terminal 2. 

22 

North Wing 

Pier A 

Gates 

A1-A65 

Pedestrian 

Tunnel 

18 

17 

16 

15 

11 

12 14 

Satellite 1 

Lufthansa Tower Lounge 

(Level 5) 


Spanair 

SWISS 

TAM 

TAP Portugal 

THAI 


US Airways 

4 

TERMINAL 5 

Security 

Checkpoint 

Heathrow Express 

TERMINAL 3 

Air Canada 

Air China 

ANA 

Blue1 

EGYPTAIR 



THAI 



Transfer 

Shuttle 

Secureside and non-secureside 

buses serve all terminals 

(Lower Level) 

Café 

Food 

Court 

11 

13 15 17 19 

21 

20 

5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 16 18 

(Lower Level) 

MAIN TERMINAL 

Continental 

TERMINAL 1 

United 

(ORD, IAD, SFO, LAX) 

Aegean Airlines 

Air New Zealand 


Austrian 

bmi 

Brussels Airlines 

Croatia Airlines 


Lufthansa 


SWISS 

TAM 

TAP Portugal 

US Airways 

TERMINAL 4 

Continental 

(EWR, IAH) 

Gates 1-25

INFORMATION 

Safety & 

Travel Assistance 

SAFETY INFORMATION 

NEED TO KNOW 

Customer safety is our primary 

concern. Our fl ight attendants 

are trained thoroughly in all 

safety procedures. But as expert 

as they are, in the event of an 

emergency they need help from 

you, the customer. You should 

be aware of the following: 

NEVER PERMITTED 

The Federal Aviation 

Ad min istra tion and 

the Transportation Security 

Administration prohibit 

hazardous materials in either 

checked or carry-on baggage. 

Sub stantial fi nes can be 

imposed for violations. 

Travel assistance for delayed or canceled fl ights 

At United and Continental, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time 

schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a fl ight is the only option to 

assure we maintain the highest safety standards. 

Flight canceled? We will automatically confi rm you on the next United or 

Continental fl ight with available seats. Kiosks located in the concourse will 

assist you with information and a boarding pass—they will also help you 

stand by for an earlier United or Continental fl ight if one is scheduled. If you 

want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the 

next United or Continental fl ight to your destination until you are onboard. 

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next fl ight if space is available. 

This means your bags may arrive before you. United or Continental 

will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. 

What if I have to stay overnight? If a fl ight is canceled to address a 

mechanical issue or a similar issue within our control, we will provide 

Staying Fit INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY 

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward 

chest, decreasing the amount 

of joint space at the back of the 

knee. Repeat with other leg. 

Knee Extension: Straighten 

knee, increasing the amount of 

joint space at the back of the 

knee to its full range. Repeat 

with other leg. 


EXIT 

Location of the nearest 

emergency exit 

Where your oxygen mask will 

appear, how to start the oxygen 

fl ow and how to use the mask 

Liquid and solid explosives 

Poisons 

The correct procedure for exiting 

the cabin in an emergency 

Please look carefully at the safety 

information card located in the 

seat pocket in front of you 

Flammable gases 

and compressed gas 

Radioactive and magnetic 

materials, corrosive and 

oxidizing agents 

you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as 

weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted 

rate; however, United and Continental do not cover hotel or meal expenses 

in this event. If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits 

containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. 

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or 

cancellation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800-UNITED-1) or 

Continental reservations (1-800-523-FARE) to get information on your options. 

Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for Trip Alert, our messaging 

service. If your fl ight is canceled or delayed, Trip Alert will inform you. 

Enroll at united.com or continental.com. At home? Go to united.com or 

continental.com for information or to check in and print your boarding pass. 

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business 

and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. 

Dorsifl exion: With heel on fl oor, 

point toes upward, decreasing 

the angle between the foot and 

the front of the leg. Repeat with 

other foot. 

Plantar Flexion: Lift heel and 

keep toes pointed toward the fl oor, 

increasing the angle between the 

top of the foot and the front of the 

leg. Repeat with other foot. 

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT Whether 

your next fl ight is on United or one of the Star Alliance 

partners around the world, you can use the terminal 

diagrams on pages 146-148 to plan your connection. 

In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket 

counters and interterminal transportation. 

Smoking is not permitted. Federal law 

imposes fi nes of $1,000 for smoking 

and up to $2,200 for any at tempt to 

disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We 

prohibit the use of electronic simulated 

smoking devices (cigarettes, pipes, 

cigars, etc.) on our fl ights. 

It is a violation of federal regulations to 

drink alcoholic beverages during a fl ight 

unless they are served by our personnel. 

Also, airlines are forbidden to serve 

alcoholic beverages to anyone who 

appears to be intoxicated. 

Eversion: With foot on fl oor, 

gently roll the sole of the foot 

inward. Repeat with other foot. 

Inversion: With foot on fl oor, 

gently roll the sole of the foot 

outward. Repeat with other foot.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES 

STAGE OF 

FLIGHT 

DEPARTURE: 

at gate, only when 

cabin door is open 

ARRIVAL: taxiing 

to gate area 

IN FLIGHT: 

above 10,000 feet 

in altitude 

ON GROUND: 

when main cabin 

door is open 

NEVER 

PERMITTED 

Noise-canceling 

headphones 

Cameras 

Shavers 

Mobile phones and 

two-way pagers 

CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing 

quality service, and we want to hear about your 

travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a 

certain employee or an action taken on your behalf 

deserves special recognition, please let us know. 

Please give us your feedback at ualsurvey.com. 

DEVICES PERMITTED 

PDAs and other 

electronic devices 

MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing 

GPS devices 

Personal computers* 

Aircraft power ports 

for laptops 

Entertainment 

players and recorders 

(audio and/or video, 

such as iPods; 

e-readers; tape/ 

CD/MiniDisc/MP3/ 

DVD players; and 

camcorders)* 

MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing 

TVs Radio receivers and/or transmitters (including 

AM/FM/SW, CB and scanners) 

ONBOARD PHOTO AND VIDEO 

The use of still and video cameras, fi lm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that 

have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. Photography or audio 

or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. 

Also, unauthorized photography or audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft 

equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any photography (video or still) or voice or 

audio recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, 

except to the extent specifi cally permitted by United Airlines. 

Calculators 

Electronic games* 

* must be used 

with sound off or 

with headsets at 

all times 

Remote-control toys 

and personal air 

purifi ers 

Rechargeable 

batteries have a risk 

of overload or fi re 

when not stored properly. 

Rechargeable batteries 

should be stored in their 

electronic devices or 

properly protected to avoid 

contact with metal or other 

batteries during fl ight. 

Advanced mobile phones, 

PDAs and other personal 

electronic devices with 

wireless capabilities may 

be used in fl ight when 

switched to “airplane” 

mode. A visible airplanedisabled 

mode should be 

identifi able and shown to a 

crew member upon request. 

Flight attendants will notify 

mobile phone and two-way 

pager users when it is safe 

to begin placing or receiving 

phone calls or pages after 

landing. One-way pagers 

may be used to receive 

messages at any time. 

PLEASE NOTE Customers 

may always use any 

medically prescribed 

physiological instrument, 

such as a hearing aid or 

a pacemaker. Customers 

wearing hearing assistance 

devices may request a 

special headset from a 

fl ight attendant. 

Passengers are allowed to 

use non-noise-canceling 

headphones during taxi, 

takeoff and landing on 

aircraft that are equipped 

with DIRECTV® and Audio 

Video On Demand (AVOD). 

The in-seat power system 

may be used only above 

10,000 feet, when other 

approved personal 

electronic devices are 

permitted. Use of the 

system is at your own risk. 

Do not remove batteries. 

We are not respons ible 

for loss of data or damage 

to computer hardware 

or software. 


INFORMATION 

MileagePlus 

THE WORLD’S MOST 

REWARDING LOYALTY PROGRAM 

Coming soon 

On December 31, 2011, 

the OnePass program 

will end, followed 

by a wind-down 

period during the fi rst 

quarter of 2012. After 

the wind-down, all 

OnePass members 

will automatically 

be enrolled in the 

MileagePlus program. 

Until December 31, 

all OnePass accounts 

will remain active, and 

enrollments will still 

be accepted. 

In 2012, MileagePlus looks forward to 

welcoming OnePass members into the 

program. With MileagePlus, members 

will enjoy the benefi ts of the world’s 

most rewarding loyalty program: more 

worldwide destinations, more comfort 

and more ways to earn and redeem award 

miles. Current members are encouraged 

to link their OnePass and MileagePlus 

accounts at united.com/linkmyaccounts. 

Stay up to date on the complete details of 

the 2012 MileagePlus program by adding 

a valid email address to your account or 

visiting mileageplusmergerupdates.com. 

About MileagePlus 

MileagePlus is our award-winning loyalty 

program. When you enroll, you earn 

award miles every time you fl y United, 


Continental or our partners—award 

miles for travel to more than 1,100 

destinations worldwide. You can also earn 

and redeem award miles with a variety 

of partners and programs. To enroll, pick 

up an application at the airport or go to 

mileageplus.com. 

Earn even more award miles 

Members can earn award miles around 

the world with: 

• Airlines 

• Hotels 

• Car rental companies 

• Communication partners 

• Credit/debit card companies 

• Cruises 

• Shopping and gift partners 

and many more 

Achieve status 

The more you fl y, the sooner you’ll 

achieve status, which provides additional 

benefi ts to our most valuable members. 

Your qualifying activity on United and 

Continental this year will be combined 

toward your MileagePlus status for 2012. 

Status benefi ts 

• Complimentary upgrades on both United 

and Continental fl ights 

• Generous mileage bonuses 

• Special reward privileges 

• Premier Access travel benefi ts, 

including priority check-in, boarding 

and baggage handling, as well as 

expedited security screening 

• Access to Economy Plus seating (coming 

to Continental aircraft in fall 2011)

Alliances 

& Partnerships 

Star Alliance 

Member Airlines 

Other Airline Partners 

You can earn and redeem award miles on many of our other airline 

partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for specifi c information 

about each of our other airline partners. 

• Aer Lingus 

• Avianca 

• Continental 

Connection 

• Copa Airlines 

• Great Lakes 

• Hawaiian Airlines 

• Island Air 

• Jet Airways 

• Qatar Airways 

• TACA Group 

GLOBAL REACH. WORLDWIDE RECOGNITION. EXCELLENT TRAVEL SERVICES. 

United and Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world. 

Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 21,000 daily 

fl ights departing to more than 1,100 destinations. United customers have access to a 

comprehensive global network, frequent-fl yer travel benefi ts and worldwide lounge 

access on all Star Alliance member airlines. 

The Star Alliance network 

Established in 1997 as the fi rst truly global airline 

alliance to off er customers a worldwide travel 

network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers 

with a seamless travel experience across multiple 

airlines. Today, the Star Alliance network off ers 

more than 21,000 daily fl ights to 1,100-plus 

destinations in 181 countries. 

Earn miles and status faster 

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles 

almost anywhere in the world you fl y. Miles can be 

earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance 

fl ight and can be credited to your MileagePlus or 

One Pass account. Plus, the fl ight miles will count 

toward status. 

Earn recognition around the world 

The more you fl y with United, Continental and 

the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status 

can be. MileagePlus status and OnePass status 

are recognized across the alliance as either Star 

Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel 

benefi ts worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance 

for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benefi ts 

you can receive. 

Award travel is now easier 

With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your 

MileagePlus or OnePass miles for award travel on 

any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or, use them 

for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a 

premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on 

most Star Alliance airlines). 


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Chef’s 

corner 

WELCOME ABOARD 

Sit back, relax and enjoy your flight. We are pleased to introduce our 

chefs who create tasty selections with regional and global influences. 

Their menus are designed exclusively for customers seated in our 

premium cabins. To complement your meal, be sure to sample one 

of our specially selected wines. 

AROUND THE VINE 

Guy Saget “La Petite Perriere” 

Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Loire Valley 

Sauvignon Blanc, while successful around the world, is most complex 

in its Loire Valley home and Saget is one of its masters: think melon, 

lemon and apple. 

Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine 

Chef Gerry Gulli 

Corporate Chef Gerry Gulli is responsible for United’s 

menu design and development. In this role, he combines 

his love of food with his interest in aviation. He has been 

widely recognized for his creativity in designing menus 

with broad international and regional appeal. In his free 

time, Chef Gerry enjoys trying new recipes with family 

and friends. We invite you to dive into cioppino by trying 

one of his favorite recipes. 

SAN FRANCISCO BAY-STYLE CIOPPINO 

¼ cup olive oil 

2-4 cloves garlic, minced 

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, optional 

1 large yellow onion, chopped 

1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped 

1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped 

½ cup dry white wine 

6 cups tomato sauce or diced canned tomatoes 

2 cups clam or fish stock 

1 pound cod or halibut, cut into 1 inch cubes 

1 pound clams (Manila or Littleneck) 

1 pound mussels, cleaned and debearded 

1 pound prawns (16-20 count), peeled and deveined 

1 pound jumbo lump crab meat, cooked 

12 ounces bay scallops 

Sea salt and pepper to taste 

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium high. Sauté 

garlic and pepper flakes (if desired) for 1 minute. Add 

the onions and sweat until translucent. Turn heat to 

high and deglaze with the wine. Cook for 2-3 minutes 

until wine is reduced by half. Reduce the heat and add 

the tomato sauce, fish stock, basil and oregano. Bring 

to a boil, and then reduce to a gentle simmer. Add all 

fish and shellfish except the crab meat. Bring to a boil, 

and then simmer for 5-7 minutes or until the clam and 

mussel shells open. Add the crab meat. Season with salt 

and pepper. If desired, add additional tomato sauce or 

stock to thin the cioppino. 

Ladle into large warmed bowls. Garnish with fresh basil 

leaves. Serve with toasted French or Sourdough bread to 

soak up the rich and flavorful broth. For a twist, serve in 

bread bowls. Recipe yields 8 servings. 

Chef’s tip 

When cooking with fresh clams and 

mussels, be sure to discard any shells 

that are broken or not fully closed. 

Also, discard any shells that have 

not opened after cooking.

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH AMERICA 

AND LATIN AMERICA FLIGHTS. MOST FLIGHTS ACCEPT 

CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS ONLY. 

à la carte 

ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2.5 HOURS 

PRINGLES® ORIGINAL POTATO CRISPS $2.99 

2.6 ounce can 

TWIZZLERS® STRAWBERRY TWISTS $2.99 

4 ounce box 

M&M’S® PRETZEL CHOCOLATE CANDIES $2.99 

2.8 ounce box 

TWO-BITE® CINNAMON ROLLS $2.99 

3 mini rolls 

BLUE DIAMOND® ROASTED SALTED ALMONDS $4.99 

6 ounce can 

breakfast 

ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS 

TWO-BITE® CINNAMON ROLLS $2.99 

3 mini rolls 

YOGURT PARFAIT $5.49 

Low-fat vanilla yogurt with mixed berries and granola. 

CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49 

Brie, Gouda, Muenster and cheddar cheeses, dried fruit 

and pecan halves. 

*HAM & CHEDDAR RUSTIC CIABATTA SANDWICH $5.79 

Shaved ham and cheddar cheese on a rustic ciabatta square 

served with Dijon mustard-mayo sauce (served cold). 

*HOT BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.99 

Jimmy Dean® sausage, egg and cheese sandwich, 

accompanied by fresh fruit and condiments. 

*These breakfast items are available on select flights only. 

lunch & dinner 

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS 

ASIAN NOODLE SALAD $5.49 

A chilled noodle salad topped with stir-fried vegetables, 

sweet chile chicken breast and green onions. 

GRILLED CHICKEN SPINACH SALAD $9.49 

Chicken, cherry tomatoes and carrots over spinach and 

romaine lettuce, topped with crispy onions and served 

with balsamic vinaigrette. 

CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49 

Brie, Gouda, Muenster and cheddar cheeses, dried fruit 

and pecan halves. 

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $8.59 

Chicken breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, and red and yellow 

bell peppers wrapped in a tortilla with Thai aïoli sauce. 

*TURKEY SANDWICH $7.99 

Smoked turkey with provolone cheese and lettuce on a 

pretzel roll with stone-ground mustard-mayo sauce. 

*ANGUS CHEESEBURGER $7.99 

Premium Angus beef with melted cheese, lettuce, tomato, 

pickles and onion, served with traditional condiments. 

*These lunch/dinner items are available on select flights only.

snackboxes 

ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2.5 HOURS 

TAPAS $8.49 

Oloves Marinated Olives 

Roasted Red Pepper Bruschetta Spread 

Wild Garden Hummus 

Rondelé® Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread 

Fratelli Laurieri Scrocchi Al Rosmarino Crackers 

Jacobs® Cream Crackers 

Partners® Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers 

Emerald® Natural Almonds 

Fantis® Ouzo Candy Mint 

CLASSIC $7.49 

Snyder’s® of Hanover Mini Pretzels 

Crackers 

Pepperidge Farm® Goldfish 

Hormel Homeland® Hard Salami 

Cheddar Gourmet Cheese Spread 

Jelly Belly® Assorted Flavors 

Chips Ahoy! 100-Calorie Thin Crisps 

SAVORY $7.29 

Tortilla Chips 

Mild Salsa 

Granola Bar 

Fruit & Nut Mix 

Dark Chocolate Covered Pretzel 

Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We 

apologize if your preferred choice is not available. 

beverages 

NON-ALCOHOLIC 

Complimentary and available on most flights. 

Coca-Cola, ® Coke Zero, ® 

Diet Coke ® 

Sprite, ® Sprite Zero ® 

® Minute Maid : Cranberry 

Apple Juice Cocktail, 

Orange Juice 

® Mott’s : Apple Juice, 

Tomato Juice 

Mr. & Mrs. T’s ® 

Bloody Mary Mix 

AVAILABLE ON SELECT ROUTES 

Cappuccino, Espresso and Specialty Regional Teas 

Seagram’s ® : Ginger Ale, 

Seltzer Water, Tonic Water 

Bottled Water 

Freshbrew Journeys Coffee 

Decaffeinated Coffee 

Hot Tea 

ALCOHOLIC 

Alcoholic beverages are available on most flights. Complimentary in 

premium cabins. Priced as shown in economy cabin. 

SPECIALTY COCKTAIL 

MOST NORTH AMERICA FLIGHTS EXCEPT HAWAII 

Salvador’s ® Margarita $7 

MOST U.S. MAINLAND FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII 

Trader Vic’s ® Mai Tai $9 

BEER $6 

Budweiser ® , Miller ® Lite, Heineken ® 

WINES $7 

House Red and White 

INTERNATIONAL & MOST FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII 

Sparkling Wine 

Special wine selections are available for premium cabin customers. Please ask your 

flight attendant about today’s selections. 

SPIRITS $7 

ABSOLUT ® Vodka 

® Bacardi Superior Light Rum 

® Bombay Sapphire Dry Gin 

® Canadian Club Whisky 

® ® Dewar’s “White Label ” 

Blended Scotch Whisky 

® 

Jack Daniel’s 

Tennessee Whiskey 

Jim Beam Black ® Kentucky 

Straight Bourbon Whiskey 

LIQUEURS & COGNAC $7 

® Bailey’s Irish Cream 

® Courvoisier VSOP Fine 

Champagne Cognac 

MOST INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS 

Crown Royal ® 

Canadian Whisky 

DISARONNO ® Amaretto* 

* Also domestic premium cabins 

® The Glenlivit Single Malt 

Scotch Whisky 

® 

Grand Marnier 

Kahlua ® * 

Alcohol is complimentary in economy class on United-operated flights within Asia 

and trans-Pacific international flights. 

Save $2 on alcoholic beverages when you use your Continental Airlines Chase 

MasterCard ® on Continental-operated flights. 

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. Customers are limited to one 

alcoholic beverage at a time during service. 

We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers, and plastic bottles on 

eligible flights. 

 

 

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model, confi guration, power management settings, applications used, and wireless settings. The maximum capacity of the battery will decrease with time and use. Test results based on independent third party Mobile Mark 2007 tests. Specifi cations and designs are subject to change without notice.

november-2011

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