artists & crafts - Departures

artists & crafts - Departures






It’s business as unusual.

Gone are the stiff attaché, the

buttoned-up blazer, the heavy

shoe. Instead, it’s LOUIS VUITTON’s

unstructured Doctor bag ($3,870),

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s unconstructed

silk-and-linen jacket

($1,695), and JOHN LOBB’s cream

linen shoe ($975). For details,

see page 148.

Set deSign by Jocelyne beaudoin at art department; Set conStruction by richard balado; hair by WeSley o’meara for treSemme at the Wall group; makeup by hung Vanngo at the Wall group; faShion aSSiStant, toure gaddiS

Thierry Hermès founded

his French saddle shop in

1837. In 1956 HERMES named

the Kelly bag after Princess

Grace of Monaco; in 1984 it

christened the Birkin. This

year a similarly understated

and unadorned calfskin clutch

joins the pantheon. Its name?

Goodlock ($5,400).

L ondon’s Jermyn Street

has been home to the world’s

best shirtmakers since the

17th century. EMMA WILLIS

opened shop there a bit more

recently—December 1999, to

be exact—but continues the

tradition in fine Italian and

Swiss cotton. Her bespoke

Swiss voile shirt ($320) is

matched in subtlety by solidiron

cuff links from LONGMIRE,

located, conveniently enough,

just around the corner on Bury

Street (from $550 in iron).

homeSpun linen Sheet from paula rubenStein, ltd

Kazumi Yoshida


“The textiles I create for

Clarence House can be

quite whimsical. One

called Jules et Jim was

inspired by mythological

creatures on a Pompeii

wall drawing. But right

now the pattern I love

most is a subtle take on the

color and geometry of

Le Corbusier.”

Kazumi Yoshida wears his own

Comme des Garçons shirt,

Dolce & Gabbana cargo pants,

and a watch by Issey Miyake.


True luxury,” a wise woman

once said, “is having what no

one else does.” Which is perhaps

why the most coveted items

are one-of-a-kind pieces not

available at stores but through

appointment only at private

ateliers. Current favorites: a

natural pearl and sandalwood

prayer lariat ($295) and handtie-dyed

cashmere scarf ($650)

from I PEZZI DIPINTI, and a South

Africa croc cuff from LOYAPAN

LEMARTI (from $275).


antique leather chair from the prop company—maxine kaplan & aSSociateS


conjures a world constructed

from equal parts clean architecture,

casual elegance,

and subtle drama. All are on

view at the designer’s new

40,000-square-foot Manhattan

flagship on Fifth Avenue

(com plete with an Armani

chocolate shop and an Italian

restaurant on the third floor).

And though we may live in an

electronic age, the crocodile

agenda ($8,495) and document

case (exclusive to the

store; $17,000) remind us

how wonderfully reliable—and

chic—pen and paper can be.

ogan gregorY


“I believe in a soulful

minimalism. Modern

shapes with a patina that

embody the perfection

of imperfection. Not a

gleaming glass high-rise

but Jean Nouvel chairs

from a schoolhouse in the

West Indies, slightly

corroded with salt.”

Rogan Gregory wears a Rogan

shirt ($190) and pants ($275) with

a Japanese cashmere wristband

from A Litl Betr ($100).

B ling redefined. Paris-

based artisan HERVE VAN DER

STRAETEN crafts his Ghost

cuffs from brass ($270 each).


strings large beads of natural

dendritic agate ($7,800). And

Istanbul-based jeweler GILAN

sets rose-cut diamonds using

15th-century Ottoman techniques

(price upon request).



M an versus machine is

an ancient battle, but BOTTEGA

VENETA’s handmade microcrocheted

satchel ($5,200) wins

this round. Equally triumphant

are FRANCESCO LAUDATO’s artisanal

sandals ($90), crafted in

his small workshop in Oltrarno,

Florence, and the hand-strung,

one-of-a-kind picture jasper

necklace from VERDURA ($6,500).

oppoSite page: Vintage toolS from paula rubenStein, ltd

michele oKa doner


“Accessories are wonderful

decoys. They speak

volumes about what we

would like to project

about ourselves. But when

simply put together, one’s

energy expresses itself

more clearly. A long-gone

tailor made this dress for

me in multiple materials.

It’s a kind of uniform,

free of contrivance. No

zippers. No buttons. Just

fabric that allows you to

move through space, safe

from the elements.”

Michele Oka Doner wears her own custom

dress and a one-of-a-kind bronze

and diamond bracelet of her own design.

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