Itineraries - Comune di Perugia
Itineraries - Comune di Perugia
Itineraries - Comune di Perugia
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PERUGIA CORCIANO DERUTA TORGIANO<br />
<strong>Itineraries</strong><br />
Guide to the sites, museums and collections<br />
in the <strong>Perugia</strong> <strong>di</strong>strict<br />
sistema turistico locale del perugino
MAP OF CITY ITINERARIES<br />
17<br />
upa<br />
4<br />
Pellini<br />
Via dei Priori<br />
6<br />
5<br />
16<br />
15<br />
14<br />
3<br />
12<br />
2<br />
C o r s o V a n n u c c i 1<br />
7<br />
20<br />
9<br />
18<br />
12<br />
8<br />
1<br />
13<br />
Merc<br />
Cope
1<br />
ato<br />
rto<br />
19<br />
Via P i n t u r i c c h i o<br />
P i n t u r i c c h i o<br />
Briglie<br />
21<br />
S. Antonio<br />
10<br />
L.go <strong>di</strong><br />
Porta Pesa<br />
20<br />
C o r s o G . G a r i b a l d i<br />
V i a B o r g o x x G i u g n o<br />
19
General information<br />
PERUGIA – ITINERARY I<br />
Conca postern – free admission request –<br />
contact IAT<br />
Wall of the university at Piazza Ermini<br />
closed Saturdays, holidays and during<br />
lectures<br />
PERUGIA – ITINERARY II<br />
Pozzo Etrusco<br />
Piazza Danti, 18 - tel. +39 075 573-3669<br />
Admission charge<br />
Chapter Museum of the Cathedral<br />
of San Lorenzo<br />
Piazza IV Novembre - tel. +39 075 572-4853<br />
Admission charge<br />
Archaeological area<br />
Piazza Cavallotti - tel. +39 075 572-7141<br />
www.archeopg.arti.beniculturali.it<br />
free admission<br />
Roman mosaic<br />
Via Pascoli – courtyard of the University<br />
of <strong>Perugia</strong> – free admission<br />
Museum of Palazzo Della Penna<br />
Via Po<strong>di</strong>ani, 11 - tel. +39 075 571-6233<br />
Admission charge<br />
PLACES OF WORSHIP: churches-oratories<br />
Oratory of San Bernar<strong>di</strong>no<br />
Piazza San Francesco al Prato<br />
tel. +39 075 573-3957<br />
8 am-noon/4pm-sunset<br />
Church of Sant’Ercolano<br />
Via Sant’Ercolano - tel. +39 075 572-2297<br />
the church is currently closed for restoration<br />
Church of San Pietro<br />
Borgo XX Giugno, 74 - tel. +39 075 34770<br />
Church of Sant’Angelo<br />
Via Sant’Angelo (Corso Garibal<strong>di</strong>)<br />
tel. +39 075 572-2624<br />
NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM<br />
OF UMBRIA<br />
Piazza Giordano Bruno, 10<br />
tel. +39 075 572-7141<br />
www.archeopg.arti.beniculturali.it<br />
Admission charge<br />
THE ETRUSCAN NECROPOLISES<br />
AND THE TERRITORY – ITINERARY III<br />
Speran<strong>di</strong>o Necropolis<br />
private property<br />
admission by reservation through IAT<br />
Madonna Alta Necropolis – free admission<br />
Hypogeum of San Manno<br />
Ferro <strong>di</strong> Cavallo<br />
for visits, contact Opera Agnus Dei<br />
tel. +39 075 573-6776<br />
Hypogeum of the Volumni and<br />
the Palazzone Necropolis - Antiquarium<br />
Via Assisana, 53 – Ponte San Giovanni<br />
tel. +39 075 393-329<br />
www.archeopg.arti.beniculturali.it<br />
Admission charge<br />
Corciano<br />
Palaeontological Museum<br />
and Archaeological Collection<br />
Corso Car<strong>di</strong>nale L. Rotelli –<br />
Town Hall<br />
tel. +39 075 518-8254/5 – visits on request<br />
Etruscan Necropolis<br />
Strozzacapponi<br />
for visits, contact the owner<br />
of the shop on site<br />
tel. +39 075 514-0148/9<br />
Deruta<br />
Regional Ceramics Museum –<br />
archaeological collections.<br />
Largo San Francesco – tel. +39 075 971-1000<br />
www.museoceramicaderuta.it<br />
Admission charge<br />
Torgiano<br />
Lungarotti Foundation<br />
- Wine Museum – Palazzo Baglioni<br />
Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 11<br />
tel. +39 075 988-0200<br />
- Olive and Oil Museum<br />
Via Giuseppe Garibal<strong>di</strong>, 10<br />
tel. +39 075 988-0300<br />
www.lungarotti.it<br />
Admission charge<br />
Hours can vary. Phone ahead or contact the Tourist Information Office.<br />
Information compiled by Nicole Danner
Table of Contents<br />
The territory in ancient times<br />
I - <strong>Perugia</strong>. Circuit of the walls and gates<br />
II - <strong>Perugia</strong>. Urban archaeology<br />
The National Archaeological Museum of Umbria<br />
III - The Etruscan necropolises and the territory:<br />
Corciano - Deruta - Torgiano<br />
p. 5<br />
p. 8<br />
p. 15<br />
p. 19<br />
p. 24
Project and text<br />
Lorena Rosi Bonci<br />
Scientific collaboration<br />
Paolo Braconi<br />
Printed by<br />
Quattroemme, <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
Traslation by<br />
Stu<strong>di</strong>o Fünf s.n.c.<br />
Cover<br />
Urn from the Tomb of the Cutu.<br />
National Archaeological Museum<br />
of <strong>Perugia</strong>, third century BC<br />
(photo archives, Arch. Superintendence<br />
of Umbria)<br />
Page 3, top<br />
Segment of the Etruscan walls<br />
on Via della Canapina in <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
(photo by G. Aglietti – Quattroemme)<br />
Page 3, bottom<br />
Urn of Arunte Volumnio,<br />
Hypogeum of the Volumni<br />
(photo by G. Aglietti - Quattroemme)<br />
This page<br />
Urn with the Sacrifice of Iphigenia, from<br />
the necropolis of Ponticello <strong>di</strong> Campo,<br />
Ponte San Giovanni, <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
(photo by A. Scaleggi)<br />
Page 5<br />
“Arco Etrusco”, by U. Tarchi, L’arte<br />
etrusco-romana nell’Umbria e nella<br />
Sabina, Bergamo 1936<br />
Photographic references<br />
Archives of the Archaeological<br />
Superintendence of Umbria, <strong>Perugia</strong>:<br />
nos. 13, 16, 21.1-4,6,7,9-14, 23, 30.1-4<br />
Photographic Library of the Museum and<br />
Cultural Services of the Region of Umbria,<br />
<strong>Perugia</strong>: nos. 33, 34<br />
Wine Museum. Lungarotti Foundation,<br />
Torgiano: nos. 31.1-3<br />
Olive and Oil Museum. Lungarotti<br />
Foundation, Torgiano: no. 32<br />
Giovanni Aglietti – Quattroemme: nos. 1, 2,<br />
5-8, 11, 13, 14, 17, 19.a, 20, 21.1, 22,<br />
24-28, 30.1,3,4<br />
Paolo Braconi: nos. 10, 12.1-4<br />
Simona Cortona: no. 3<br />
Adamo Scaleggi: nos. 21.5-8<br />
Enrico Chianella: no. 7.a<br />
We are especially grateful<br />
to the Archaeological Superintendence<br />
of Umbria and to Simonetta Stopponi<br />
This guidebook is intended as a tool to help visitors learn about and enjoy<br />
the immense archaeological heritage of the city of <strong>Perugia</strong> and its outlying<br />
<strong>di</strong>stricts. It provides visitors interested in antiquity with a series of theme-based<br />
itineraries, which can be conducted independently or with tour guides.<br />
The itineraries can be completed on foot, or with public or private transportation,<br />
and can take one day or more. Naturally, the itineraries can be connected with<br />
each other and supplemented with other historic-artistic itineraries, for a more<br />
complete understan<strong>di</strong>ng of the city and its environs. Before starting on these<br />
itineraries, visitors are advised to check any practical information they may need<br />
(parking, roads, hours, accessibility, reservation requirements, admission fees) at<br />
the information and welcome points of the Territorial Tourism Service of <strong>Perugia</strong>.
The territory in ancient times<br />
The territory examined here is the central part of Umbria. Starting in the Archaic<br />
Age, it was organized into Etruscan cities and fortified Umbro settlements<br />
that were later transformed into municipia and coloniae by the Romanization<br />
process.<br />
The area marked the point of convergence of two milieus that were ethnically<br />
and culturally <strong>di</strong>stinct: the Umbro and the Etruscan populations, which<br />
respectively settled to the left and right of the Tiber. Indeed, for many centuries<br />
a long stretch of the river acted as the boundary between the two territories –<br />
albeit somewhat changeably – and, ultimately, it marked the frontier between<br />
regio VI (Umbria) and regio VII (Etruria) during the Augustan Age. Rather<br />
than being a true boundary, however, the Tiber was actually a key means of<br />
communication, trade and cultural exchange between the river populations<br />
and with Rome. The river was navigable by various means from Tifernum<br />
Tiberinum (modern-day Città <strong>di</strong> Castello) all the way to Ostia.<br />
Starting in very ancient times, <strong>Perugia</strong> played a dominant role in the surroun<strong>di</strong>ng<br />
area, due to its eminent geographical position (set at an altitude<br />
of 493 metres above sea level) overlooking the Tiber at the point where it flows<br />
into the Umbrian Valley, which was controlled by the ancient cities of Assisi,<br />
Spello and Spoleto. Disregar<strong>di</strong>ng the debate on whether the city was founded<br />
by the Umbro tribes or the Etruscans, starting in the Archaic Age (seventhsixth<br />
century BC) and particularly as of the fifth-fourth century BC, a period<br />
that is even more extensively documented, <strong>Perugia</strong> was one of the most important<br />
cities of inland Etruria, together with nearby Chiusi to the west and<br />
Orvieto to the south. With its outposts of Arna and Vettona to the left of the<br />
Tiber, it rapidly gained control over both banks of the river as well as its fords.<br />
To the west, through an extension of the Via Amerina from Perusia to Clusium<br />
and its numerous branches, <strong>Perugia</strong> was well connected with Lake Trasimeno,<br />
the Chiusi countryside and Cortona.<br />
7
CORTONA<br />
TRASUMENNUS<br />
Ad Statuas LACUS<br />
S. Albino - Montepulciano<br />
sia<br />
I A<br />
CLUSIUM<br />
Chiusi<br />
Clanis<br />
Via Cassia<br />
Corciano<br />
TIFERNUM TIBERINUM<br />
Città <strong>di</strong> Castello<br />
PERUSIA<br />
<strong>Perugia</strong><br />
Tiberis<br />
Via Amerina<br />
Tiberis<br />
HURVINUM<br />
HORTENSE<br />
Collemancio<br />
TUDER<br />
To<strong>di</strong><br />
IGUVIUM<br />
Gubbio<br />
Arna<br />
Civitella d’Arna<br />
VETTONA<br />
Bettona<br />
ASISIUM<br />
Assisi<br />
HISPELLUM<br />
Spello<br />
MEVANIA<br />
Bevagna<br />
<br />
Via Flaminia<br />
<br />
<br />
Ad Aesim<br />
Scheggia<br />
Forum Flaminii<br />
S. Giovanni Profiamma<br />
Vicus Martis<br />
Massa Martana<br />
<br />
<br />
Helvillum<br />
Fossato <strong>di</strong> Vico<br />
Via Flaminia<br />
Via Flaminia<br />
FULGINIA<br />
Foligno<br />
Judging by its socio-economic and cultural development, starting in the third<br />
century BC <strong>Perugia</strong> took over the leadership in Etruria that had been held by<br />
Orvieto before the Roman conquest (264 BC). The city walls, built in the second<br />
half of the third century BC, were monumentalized with the construction<br />
of two main gates. Moreover, through an extensive buil<strong>di</strong>ng programme the<br />
Pozzo Sorbello (well) was completed, and urban and suburban temples were<br />
erected. The number of necropolises around the city and in the area increased;<br />
these necropolises were characterized by the ritual of cremation in travertine<br />
urns, typically produced in the <strong>Perugia</strong> area. The bellum perusinum (War of<br />
<strong>Perugia</strong>, 41-40 BC), in which the city – which supported Mark Antony’s faction<br />
– was attacked and conquered by Octavian, the future Augustus, concluded<br />
the Romanization phase. The local Etruscan aristocracies were either<br />
completely eliminated or co-opted into the ranks of the Romans. Their lands<br />
were then confiscated and <strong>di</strong>stributed to the veterans of the victorious army,<br />
and the territory of <strong>Perugia</strong> was reduced to just one mile outside the city walls.
The Etruscan-Roman layout of <strong>Perugia</strong> hinged on the crossroads of two thoroughfares.<br />
The main one (cardo maximus) ran north-south from the Arco <strong>di</strong><br />
Augusto (Arch of Augustus) to the gate of Porta Marzia, through modern-day<br />
Corso Vannucci and Piazza IV Novembre. This was the centre of the ancient<br />
city, and the forum of the Roman era was located here. Another road (decumanus<br />
maximus) crossed the city from east to west, from the Arco dei<br />
Gigli to the Arco <strong>di</strong> Porta Trasimena through Via dei Priori (the remains of<br />
the large Roman paving stones, or basolato, are still visible at No. 69 of this<br />
street). Other routes have been identified through occasional fin<strong>di</strong>ngs, or<br />
they have been deduced based on other topographic elements.<br />
The three theme-based itineraries described below cover the walls and<br />
the city gates (I), the archaeological remains in the city (II) and the<br />
archaeological remains in the outlying area (III). Naturally they can<br />
overlap or cross each other: visitors can thus choose an itinerary based<br />
on their needs and the amount of time available.<br />
Nonetheless, it should be noted that visiting the two main gates and at<br />
least one of two best-preserved sections on Via Battisti or Via della Cupa<br />
(pp. 9-10) is essential for a “minimum” understan<strong>di</strong>ng of the city walls.<br />
With regard to the other monuments, particularly significant ones are the<br />
Pozzo Sorbello for the Etruscan era, and the mosaic of Santa Elisabetta<br />
and the temple of Sant’Angelo for the Roman era (see the Itinerary Map<br />
and General Information at the beginning of the book).<br />
9
I - <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
Circuit of the walls<br />
and gates<br />
Our itinerary starts in the historic<br />
centre of <strong>Perugia</strong>, encircled<br />
by Etruscan walls. The latter,<br />
which represent the city’s main<br />
archaeological monument, reflect<br />
the wealth and power<br />
achieved by the Etruscan metropolis,<br />
and they are among the<br />
oldest and most impressive examples<br />
in Central Italy. The<br />
walls extended for about 3 kilometres,<br />
following more or less the<br />
same level curve. The “cloverleaf”<br />
layout is due to the irregular<br />
shape of the two hills inside the<br />
walls (Colle del Sole to the north<br />
and Colle Landone to the south)<br />
and to the deep depressions<br />
carved into these hillsides.<br />
The square blocks of local travertine<br />
(probably from the Santa<br />
Sabina quarries) were laid<br />
without mortar in fairly even<br />
rows. The façade was well finished,<br />
whereas the blocks were<br />
coarsely hewn on the side set<br />
against the embankment. The<br />
chronology of the walls and<br />
gates is still being debated. Accor<strong>di</strong>ng<br />
to the most widely accepted<br />
theory, the monumental<br />
phase visible today dates back to<br />
the third century BC and work<br />
was done on the extant original<br />
walls (built in the mid-fourth<br />
century BC).<br />
Extensive segments are visible<br />
along the north and southeast<br />
sides; there are also six gates, the<br />
main one of which is the Arco<br />
Etrusco or Arco <strong>di</strong> Augusto (1).<br />
1<br />
This gate is 11 metres tall and<br />
has an opening of over 4 metres.<br />
It represents the monumental<br />
north entrance to the city, lea<strong>di</strong>ng<br />
into Piazza Braccio Fortebraccio<br />
located at the northern<br />
end of the cardo maximus (now<br />
Corso Vannucci-Via Rocchi).<br />
Two imposing towers that taper<br />
towards the top delimit the round<br />
arch, composed of two orders of<br />
voussoirs topped by a cornice.<br />
The inscription “AUGUSTA PE-<br />
RUSIA” was added more than two<br />
centuries after it was built, in order<br />
to commemorate the restructuring<br />
work ordered by Augustus<br />
following the bellum perusinum<br />
mentioned in the introduction.<br />
Above this is a second inscription,<br />
“COLONIA VIBIA”, commemorating<br />
the status of ius<br />
coloniae granted by the Roman<br />
emperor C. Vibius Trebonianus<br />
Gallus (251-253 AD), who was<br />
originally from <strong>Perugia</strong>. The remains<br />
of two sandstone sculptures<br />
– in rather poor con<strong>di</strong>tion –<br />
can be seen on the sides of the<br />
arch. A frieze with shields alter-
2<br />
nated with triglyphs (decoration<br />
in groups of three vertical<br />
grooves) separates the gate from a<br />
round arch, now closed, set between<br />
two Ionic pillars. Accor<strong>di</strong>ng<br />
to a recent hypothesis, this<br />
opening was used for weapons<br />
that were hurled to defend<br />
against assaults. Accor<strong>di</strong>ng to<br />
another hypothesis, the upper<br />
arch is what remains of a previous<br />
gate: the sandstone sculptures<br />
– subsequently transferred<br />
to the new gate – were the deities<br />
placed there to protect it. The upper<br />
part of the arch was restructured<br />
during the Renaissance, as<br />
demonstrated by the loggia<br />
crowning the east tower.<br />
To the right of the gate is one of the<br />
most striking segments of the city<br />
walls, located along Via Cesare<br />
Battisti (2), a road constructed at<br />
the beginning of the twentieth century.<br />
Along this well-preserved<br />
segment, there is a clearly evident<br />
stringcourse marking the walkways<br />
used for patrols. The cornice<br />
rises counterslope with respect to<br />
the road level and it is sustained<br />
by compact limestone ashlars<br />
that are clearly <strong>di</strong>fferent from the<br />
others. Evident on the upper and<br />
oblique band of the wall is the<br />
seam between the older wall and<br />
the ad<strong>di</strong>tion of the towered gate,<br />
which is more recent.<br />
Our itinerary continues to the<br />
me<strong>di</strong>aeval arch on Via Appia,<br />
near which the second gate of the<br />
Etruscan walls must have been<br />
located. The stairs lead to the<br />
me<strong>di</strong>aeval passageway of the<br />
aqueduct: from the time this<br />
passageway was built, it was<br />
connected with the postern<br />
3<br />
(small gate), known as the Conca<br />
(3), marking the pedestrian<br />
access to a steeply sloped route.<br />
The walls re-emerge to the west in<br />
the gardens under Via del<br />
Verzaro and in Piazza Ermini,<br />
inside the rooms of the university’s<br />
Department of Educational<br />
Sciences, where the only internal<br />
portion of the walls is visible. The<br />
surface of the blocks is uneven, as<br />
they were originally part of the<br />
foundation and were set against<br />
the embankment. The walls then<br />
continue on Via del Poggio, en<strong>di</strong>ng<br />
and then reappearing at the<br />
point where Via del Piscinello enters<br />
Porta Trasimena – also<br />
known as Porta San Luca (4) –<br />
11
at the end of Via dei Priori. The<br />
piers, which now serve as the imposts<br />
for the me<strong>di</strong>aeval arch, are<br />
all that remain of the original<br />
Etruscan structure.<br />
The walls continue on Via Tornetta<br />
and Via della Canapina (near<br />
Porta Santa Susanna, with a<br />
route going from Via della Sposa<br />
to Piazza del Drago). They then<br />
curve to the southwest on Via della<br />
Cupa, where one of the best-preserved<br />
portions can be admired.<br />
The stringcourse, which in<strong>di</strong>cates<br />
the probable internal level of the<br />
city, is noteworthy.<br />
As we descend to the base of the<br />
wall, we can see the Cupa postern<br />
(5), another pedestrian passageway<br />
entering the city. This small<br />
opening is equi<strong>di</strong>stant between<br />
Porta Trasimena and Porta della<br />
Mandorla, at the point where the<br />
walls were wedged deeply into the<br />
“slash” created by the Cupa trench,<br />
forming a steep route connected<br />
<strong>di</strong>rectly with the centre of town.<br />
5<br />
The remains of an Etruscan gate<br />
can be seen in the Arco della Mandorla<br />
(6), between Via Bruschi<br />
and Via San Giacomo. The original<br />
voussoirs are still visible on<br />
7<br />
6<br />
the right side of the arch, rising as<br />
far as the imposts of the top of the<br />
arch, which was replaced by an<br />
ogive.<br />
A lovely segment of the walls – albeit<br />
extensively restructured –<br />
continues to the left, along the<br />
stairs of Via del Para<strong>di</strong>so. Several<br />
fragmentary inscriptions regar<strong>di</strong>ng<br />
the Roman colony are visible.<br />
Well-preserved portions can also<br />
be seen under Torre Donati.<br />
The walls continued between Via<br />
Bonazzi and Via del Pozzo, but<br />
they are no longer visible.<br />
Procee<strong>di</strong>ng along Viale In<strong>di</strong>pendenza,<br />
we come to the second<br />
monumental gate, Porta Marzia,<br />
which Antonio Sangallo incorporated<br />
into a bastion of the Rocca<br />
Paolina fortress in 1540 (7).
The upper portion of the gate,<br />
which would have been destroyed<br />
by the work to construct<br />
the fortress, was <strong>di</strong>smantled and<br />
reassembled on the façade of the<br />
bastion. The original position of<br />
the gate, set back by four metres,<br />
is documented by the remains of<br />
the jambs inside the fortress.<br />
Made of travertine like the rest<br />
of the walls, it now has a round<br />
arch composed of an order of<br />
voussoirs, and it is accentuated<br />
by a projecting cornice. Above it<br />
is a balustrade with four small<br />
pilasters in an Italo-Corinthian<br />
style, with five statues jutting<br />
from it: they have been interpreted<br />
as Jupiter between the<br />
Dioscuri (7a), i.e. Castor and<br />
Pollux, and their respective<br />
horses at the ends.<br />
7a<br />
The decoration is set between two<br />
tall Italo-Corinthian pilasters<br />
that start from the base of the arch<br />
and support the upper cornice,<br />
which bears the inscription<br />
“COLONIA VIBIA”. This inscription,<br />
like the one in<strong>di</strong>cating “AU-<br />
GUSTA PERUSIA” at the base of<br />
the balustrade, repeats the epithets<br />
used to refer to the city, which also<br />
8<br />
appear on the Arco Etrusco.<br />
The Church of Sant’Ercolano is<br />
easy to reach from here. Inside,<br />
there is a lovely Roman marble<br />
sarcophagus decorated with lions<br />
(see Itinerary 2, p. 17). Another<br />
portion of the walls can be<br />
seen along Via <strong>di</strong> Sant’Ercolano,<br />
next to the church, but it is in<br />
rather poor con<strong>di</strong>tion, with<br />
buil<strong>di</strong>ngs from various eras constructed<br />
against it. Next to it is<br />
the Arco <strong>di</strong> Sant’Ercolano (8):<br />
only the jambs remain from the<br />
original Etruscan structure, over<br />
which a Gothic arch was built.<br />
At this point, we will go down<br />
Via Oberdan, where the remains<br />
of the walls have been preserved<br />
inside the Church of Santa<br />
Maria della Misericor<strong>di</strong>a (annexed<br />
to the former hospital,<br />
which was built <strong>di</strong>rectly against<br />
the city walls) and in the rooms<br />
under it at No. 52.<br />
Inside No. 28 of Via Oberdan,<br />
there is a well-preserved portion<br />
with perfectly straight rows.<br />
The walls originally followed the<br />
13
9<br />
western edge of Piazza Matteotti,<br />
along the side where the Post Office<br />
is now located. The square<br />
was originally known as Piazza<br />
del Sopramuro (9) – sopramuro<br />
means “above the walls” – to in<strong>di</strong>cate<br />
its position against the me<strong>di</strong>aeval<br />
walls that enclosed it. The<br />
old walls continued along Via<br />
Cartolari and Via della Viola,<br />
and certain portions are visible<br />
at No. 26 and No. 30 of Via Alessi,<br />
and on Via della Pazienza.<br />
Along Via Sdrucciola, a corner of<br />
the walls opens <strong>di</strong>agonally into<br />
the gate of Via Bontempi, known<br />
as the Arco dei Gigli (10).<br />
10<br />
The arch, which is well preserved<br />
up to a certain height,<br />
was mo<strong>di</strong>fied during the Middle<br />
Ages by the Gothic arch, to which<br />
lilies – gigli in Italian, hence the<br />
name – were added in honour of<br />
11<br />
the coat of arms of the Farnese<br />
pope, Paul III.<br />
From here, we can return to the Arco<br />
<strong>di</strong> Augusto, going up towards<br />
Porta Sole and then down the lovely<br />
stairs of Via delle Prome (11).<br />
The stairs lead to the slope of Via<br />
Bartolo, at the end of which we can<br />
admire the last portion of the walls,<br />
adjacent to the gate. As an alternative,<br />
we can take Via del Roscetto to<br />
Via Pinturicchio and return to Piazza<br />
Fortebraccio from there.
The city of suspended doors<br />
Paolo Braconi<br />
When an ancient city is perpetuated over the centuries, the signs of various<br />
eras normally become stratified and the ground level rises. Thus, by excavating<br />
one can find the vestiges of the “cities” that once existed. Instead, in <strong>Perugia</strong>’s<br />
case, a closer look reveals that the me<strong>di</strong>aeval levels are often beneath the<br />
older ones.<br />
It is important to note that the original layout of the rise on which <strong>Perugia</strong> was<br />
built was <strong>di</strong>vided into two hills, Colle del Sole (to the north) and Colle Landone<br />
(to the south), which were separated by a valley. Consequently, in ad<strong>di</strong>tion to<br />
the extensive fortification and terracing work represented by the city walls,<br />
there must have been other preparatory work that regulated the <strong>di</strong>stribution<br />
of urban space into stepped terraces and access ramps. However, the important<br />
works undertaken by the free commune to restructure the urban layout significantly<br />
altered both the original lay of the land and its ancient modelling. One<br />
of the most evident examples is in the heart<br />
of the city, where the me<strong>di</strong>aeval Platea<br />
Magna overlaid part of the ancient forum.<br />
Here, under the “Logge <strong>di</strong> Braccio”, the foundation<br />
of the bell tower of the older cathedral<br />
(12.1) reused ancient materials (and perhaps<br />
even the foundations), and it clearly<br />
shows that before the thirteenth century, the<br />
level of the square essentially coincided with<br />
the current flooring of the cathedral. Proof<br />
that the ancient level was higher is also provided<br />
by the doors, now blocked off, that are<br />
“suspended” at a height of about two metres<br />
12.1<br />
over No. 1 and No. 3 on Via della Gabbia<br />
(12.2). On the same street, attentive observers<br />
will also note that the foot of the tower<br />
of Madonna Dialdana, incorporated into<br />
Palazzo dei Priori, now shows bared foundations<br />
and openings that have clearly been<br />
lowered: an evident sign that they were designed<br />
in relation to an external level that<br />
was higher than the one from the late thirteenth<br />
century still used today.<br />
In short, it can be assumed that the ancient<br />
forum occupied an enormous terrace, part<br />
of which coincided with the foundation of<br />
the cathedral and originally extended far<br />
beyond towards the south. At the northwest<br />
corner of the forum terrace – and this was 12.2<br />
15
<strong>di</strong>scovered through the excavation<br />
work done by the ArchaeologicalSuperintendence<br />
– there must have<br />
been equally imposing substructions<br />
to the south, overlooking<br />
the valley between<br />
Colle del Sole and Colle Landone,<br />
and now buried under<br />
Corso Vannucci. Along the<br />
north-south road towards 12.3<br />
the Arco <strong>di</strong> Augusto, there is<br />
another example of the “excavation”<br />
of the ancient city on Via Ulisse Rocchi. Here, other openings that are<br />
now “suspended” and the re-clad<strong>di</strong>ng of the foundations of several me<strong>di</strong>aeval<br />
buil<strong>di</strong>ngs in<strong>di</strong>cate that the ancient ground levels were lowered dramatically.<br />
Final proof of this constant and intense “lowering” activity can be found in the<br />
city’s most important monument: the Arco Etrusco. Here, close examination<br />
clearly reveals that the level of the ancient “threshold” was more than 2 meters<br />
higher than the current one (12.3-4).<br />
The widespread “erosion” of the ancient levels inside the city corresponded to<br />
the creation of new levels, for which the material yielded by this “erosion<br />
process” must have been used. In ad<strong>di</strong>tion to being used to fill the valley between<br />
the two hills, as noted above, the <strong>di</strong>smantled foundation of the ancient<br />
forum was indubitably used to fill the square of Sopramuro, the plaza that the<br />
powerful me<strong>di</strong>aeval commune decided to juxtapose with the Etruscan walls.<br />
Indeed, it would be <strong>di</strong>fficult to separate these two events that, under the guidance<br />
of Fra Bevignate, ra<strong>di</strong>cally changed the city’s appearance. Moreover, this<br />
preparatory work also made it possible to lower the installation level of the new<br />
fountain in the square to a notable extent, thereby favouring (or permitting?)<br />
the “exhibition” of the long-awaited aqueduct.<br />
12.4
II - <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
Urban archaeology<br />
In ad<strong>di</strong>tion to the walls, various<br />
other parts of <strong>Perugia</strong> likewise<br />
show the remains of the Etrus -<br />
can and Roman city. To view<br />
them we will essentially move<br />
from north to south.<br />
The Pozzo Etrusco or Pozzo Sorbello<br />
(13), a well located inside<br />
Palazzo Ranieri <strong>di</strong> Sorbello in<br />
Piazza Dante, is coeval with the<br />
city walls, and it too was built<br />
using travertine. It is about 4<br />
metres below the current street<br />
level and was dug in what is referred<br />
to as tassello mandorlato,<br />
a conglomerate soil typical of<br />
the city. The well is supplied by<br />
spring water. This structure is<br />
unique, not only in its monumentality<br />
but also its inventive<br />
dual function as a well and cistern.<br />
It is about 35 metres deep,<br />
with a <strong>di</strong>ameter of 5.6 metres<br />
across the top of the well hole.<br />
The well hole is lined with 17<br />
rows of travertine blocks up to a<br />
depth of about 5.3 metres, and it<br />
narrows to a <strong>di</strong>ameter of about 3<br />
metres towards the bottom.<br />
The roofing system is notable: it<br />
13<br />
13<br />
is composed of two imposing<br />
trusses, each of which composed<br />
of five large travertine blocks<br />
(two horizontal ones, two transversal<br />
ones and keystone),<br />
which served as a support base<br />
for the flooring slabs on which<br />
the square well-curb was set. The<br />
well-curb enclosed the opening<br />
from which water was drawn.<br />
The well has a capacity of up to<br />
424,000 litres and can be considered<br />
the main water tank of the<br />
ancient city. There were other<br />
wells and cisterns inside the ancient<br />
city (like the one that closely<br />
resembles the Sorbello well, located<br />
on Via Caporali and incorporated<br />
into a Roman house<br />
after the Etruscan era), and<br />
they were used until the first<br />
public aqueduct was built in the<br />
thirteenth century.<br />
From Piazza Piccinino, our itinerary<br />
continues to Piazza IV Novembre,<br />
where we can visit the<br />
Chapter Museum of the Cathedral<br />
of San Lorenzo (there is an<br />
admission charge). In the underground<br />
area of the museum,<br />
recent excavations have uncovered<br />
Etruscan walls (14), inclu<strong>di</strong>ng<br />
part of what was probably<br />
a sacred buil<strong>di</strong>ng.<br />
17
14<br />
Nearby, a massive portion of the<br />
forum substruction walls was<br />
<strong>di</strong>scovered inside the buil<strong>di</strong>ngs<br />
at No. 12 of Via delle Cantine. It<br />
is set at a right angle to the one<br />
that has long been visible on Via<br />
Maestà delle Volte (Nos. 6 and<br />
10). The itinerary then continues<br />
to the archaeological area<br />
of Piazza Cavallotti (15), which<br />
marks a fascinating fragment<br />
in the history of <strong>Perugia</strong>’s urban<br />
layout. This area is visible under<br />
the square. Following<br />
repaving work in 1984, structures<br />
pertaining to various construction<br />
phases were <strong>di</strong>scovered<br />
here. The intersection of<br />
two road segments, paved with<br />
large blocks of white limestone<br />
and bearing traces of the ruts<br />
created by carriages, dates back<br />
to the Roman era or perhaps<br />
even earlier. The remains of a<br />
monumental fountain with a<br />
semicircular plan can be seen<br />
next to the road. Originally clad<br />
in marble, it was later refinished<br />
with a mosaic decoration<br />
in pink tesserae. The pipelines<br />
connected to it have also been<br />
preserved.<br />
From Piazza Cavallotti, our itinerary<br />
will turn down Via Baldeschi<br />
and Via Appia to skirt the<br />
pedestrian route of the old aque-<br />
16<br />
duct to Via Pascoli, where the Department<br />
of Biological Science is<br />
located. Inside this buil<strong>di</strong>ng is<br />
the Roman mosaic of Santa Elisa -<br />
betta (16), named after the<br />
church – later demolished – that<br />
was erected over the remains of<br />
public baths dating back to the<br />
Imperial Age. The mosaic, created<br />
using black and white tesserae,<br />
portrays a scene with Orpheus:<br />
the mythical Greek singer,<br />
seated on a boulder, is playing<br />
the cithara, while forty animals<br />
<strong>di</strong>vided into two groups ar rang ed<br />
in parallel lines come forward,<br />
attracted by the music. The mosaic,<br />
which was part of a vast<br />
complex of public baths, seems to<br />
date back to the second century<br />
AD. It was probably reused during<br />
the Christian era, as demonstrated<br />
by the remains of an apse
17<br />
and the signs of two crosses in the<br />
floor.<br />
From Via Pascoli, we will turn<br />
left to go up to Piazza <strong>di</strong> San<br />
Fran cesco al Prato (which can also<br />
be reached from Via dei Priori)<br />
and the Oratory of San Bernar<strong>di</strong>no<br />
(fifteenth century). Inside is<br />
the so-called Roman sarcophagus<br />
of “Blessed Giles” (17), reused as<br />
an altar. The sarcophagus was<br />
found a short <strong>di</strong>stance away, outside<br />
the city walls A striking example<br />
of early Christian art, it<br />
was probably crafted in Rome in<br />
360 AD. Scenes from the Old Testament<br />
(Jonah and Noah’s Ark)<br />
are sculpted on the lid between<br />
two profiled heads. There are seven<br />
niches along the front, each of<br />
which holds a figure: the central<br />
one is Christ enthroned; to the left<br />
is a female figure, probably symbolising<br />
the Church; the figures<br />
on the sides are dressed with a tunic<br />
and mantle (pallium), and<br />
may portray the community of<br />
saints.<br />
Our itinerary then returns up<br />
Via dei Priori to Corso Vannucci,<br />
Via Oberdan and then Via Sant’Ercolano.<br />
Another important Roman sarcophagus<br />
is preserved inside the<br />
Church of Sant’Ercolano (currently<br />
closed for renovation),<br />
where it has been used as the base<br />
for the main altar. The sarcophagus<br />
holds the relics of St. Herculanus,<br />
the patron saint of <strong>Perugia</strong>.<br />
The oval marble sarcophagus<br />
presents strigil ornamentation<br />
(slightly curved fluting in the<br />
shape of a strigil, the curved implement<br />
that ancient athletes<br />
used for scraping their skin when<br />
bathing). On the sides, there are<br />
hunting scenes (two lions savaging<br />
a fawn and a horse) and<br />
two human figures. This type of<br />
sarcophagus, from the area of the<br />
Church of Sant’Orfeto, is quite<br />
rare in the <strong>Perugia</strong> environs.<br />
This specimen dates back to the<br />
third century AD.<br />
Our itinerary continues down<br />
towards Corso Cavour and Via<br />
Po<strong>di</strong>ani, for a brief stop at the<br />
19
Museum of Palazzo Della Penna,<br />
where the only extant ruins of<br />
the Roman amphitheatre (18)<br />
are visible on the first floor below<br />
ground level.<br />
From here, our itinerary continues<br />
down Corso Cavour towards<br />
San Pietro, going past the Archaeological<br />
Museum (see p. 19). The<br />
Basilica of San Pietro (19), which<br />
is of extraor<strong>di</strong>nary historic and<br />
artistic interest, has important<br />
evidence of the prece<strong>di</strong>ng Roman<br />
and early Christian phases. The<br />
remains of a circular monument<br />
made of travertine blocks can be<br />
seen near the entrance. It is the<br />
nucleus of a Roman mausoleum<br />
that was subsequently used as the<br />
base for the bell tower. The interior<br />
is <strong>di</strong>vided into a nave and two<br />
aisles by 18 columns made of<br />
marble and granite, and dating<br />
back to the Roman era; all the capitals<br />
except the last pair are Ionic.<br />
The early me<strong>di</strong>aeval crypt (19.a)<br />
under the apse is accessible from<br />
the interior. Discovered in 1979,<br />
the circular crypt has an intriguing<br />
ambulacrum and plastered<br />
walls painted with geometric and<br />
figurative motifs.<br />
19.a<br />
20<br />
The early Christian church of Sant’Angelo<br />
(20), built towards the<br />
end of the fifth century AD, is located<br />
on the other side of the city, to<br />
the north, at the end of Corso<br />
Garibal<strong>di</strong>. This uncommon e<strong>di</strong>fice<br />
with a circular plan was originally<br />
located along the important<br />
“royal road” that extended from<br />
the Arco Etrusco. The drum that<br />
sustains the camp or tent ceiling of<br />
the church is set on 16 marble<br />
columns with Corinthian capitals<br />
that were recovered from Roman<br />
monuments. A Roman cippus de<strong>di</strong>cated<br />
to Emperor Marcus Aurelius<br />
is also preserved in the church.
The National Archaeological<br />
Museum of Umbria<br />
The museum’s current setup<br />
is temporary. Since<br />
1948, the museum has been<br />
based in the former convent<br />
of San Domenico (21.1).<br />
21.1<br />
Stone materials from the<br />
Etruscan-Roman section,<br />
which is on the upper floor, are exhibited in the entry courtyard under the portico.<br />
The room on the ground floor boasts exquisite Roman marble works, such<br />
as the one with the myth of Meleager and the well-curb depicting the battle between<br />
the Greeks and the Amazons – both of which are from Farfa Sabina –<br />
as well as the recently restored sarcophagus with a Dionysian scene sculpted<br />
in high relief and framed between two lion protomes.<br />
The portico also leads to the basement exhibition halls. Visitors can also see<br />
the tomb of the Cai Cutu (21.2), <strong>di</strong>scovered by chance at the Monteluce necropolis<br />
in 1983 and exhibited at the museum since 2000. The tomb has been reconstructed<br />
here and includes the tomb’s funerary accoutrements. Set<br />
against the back wall of the central cell is a sandstone sarcophagus containing<br />
the remains of the head of the family. Along the sides, there are 50 travertine<br />
urns with inscriptions about the Cai Cutu, a family of slave origins from<br />
Orvieto. The Etruscan gens name Cai Cutu was subsequently simplified to<br />
Cutu and, as can be seen on the later urns, it was finally Latinized to Cutius.<br />
The tomb was used uninterruptedly from the third to the first century BC.<br />
<strong>di</strong>segno <strong>di</strong> C. Ponzi<br />
21.2<br />
21
Travertine urns from <strong>Perugia</strong>’s necropolises are grouped in the upper loggia<br />
around the cloister. These urns are characteristic of the mass production<br />
by Etruscan craftsmen in <strong>Perugia</strong> during the Hellenistic Age (21.3).<br />
21.3<br />
On the north side is the entrance to the exhibition of repoussé bronze plates<br />
(21.4) and cast bronze figurines from Castel San Mariano (Municipality of<br />
Corciano). These items were part of the finishing and ornamentation of<br />
three parade chariots, datable between 570 and 520 BC, and they are considered<br />
among the most significant Archaic Etruscan bronze works. The<br />
chariots come from a princely tomb with a rich array of other precious<br />
items that are now in various European museums.<br />
21.4
21.5<br />
From the loggia, the gallery illuminated<br />
by the smaller courtyard<br />
has showcases with accoutrements<br />
from Etruscan tombs,<br />
exhibited based on the theme of<br />
cosmetics and ornamentation<br />
in the ancient world (such as the<br />
silver ointment jars from Civi -<br />
tella d’Arna) (21.5).<br />
At the end of the gallery, the seventeenth-century<br />
wing houses the<br />
oldest materials, such as the sandstone<br />
funerary stele from Mount<br />
Gualandro (late seventh-early<br />
21.7<br />
sixth century BC) (21.6) portraying<br />
two warriors facing each other,<br />
as well as the Speran<strong>di</strong>o sarcophagus<br />
(21.7). This is a notable<br />
item made of soft stone and it was<br />
produced in the Chiusi area. It<br />
dates back to around 510-500 BC,<br />
and the front portrays a long procession<br />
that has been given various<br />
interpretations, whereas the<br />
short er sides depict banquet scenes.<br />
21.5<br />
23
The room also houses other important<br />
bases and cippi from the<br />
Archaic Etruscan period. The funerary<br />
accoutrements and small<br />
urns from the Etruscan necropolises<br />
of Frontone, Monteluce and<br />
the area around the <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
cemetery are fascinating, notably<br />
the ones from the hypogeum of the<br />
Satna family at Ponticello <strong>di</strong><br />
Campo that, following recent<br />
restoration work, present wellpreserved<br />
polychrome decorations<br />
(21.8).<br />
The <strong>Perugia</strong> cippus (21.9) is extremely<br />
important for epigraphic<br />
documentation: its lengthy<br />
engraved text regulates the legal<br />
property relations between two<br />
Etruscan families, the Afuna of<br />
Chiusi and the Velthina of <strong>Perugia</strong>.<br />
21.9<br />
21.8<br />
An educational itinerary introduces<br />
the Prehistoric Section,<br />
composed of materials from the<br />
vast Bellucci Collection (21.10,<br />
11), arranged both by type and<br />
topography. These Palaeolithic<br />
and Neolithic artefacts from<br />
Umbria, Tuscany, the Marches<br />
and Abruzzo were collected by<br />
<strong>Perugia</strong> chemist, palaeoethnologist<br />
and ethnographer Giuseppe<br />
Bellucci (1844-1921).<br />
21.10<br />
21.11
21.12<br />
This exhibit is followed by the<br />
Umberto Calzoni Collection in<br />
the Salone dei Bronzi (21.12),<br />
which houses materials of various<br />
provenances spanning the<br />
Palaeolithic to the Iron Age. The<br />
materials from Cetona, the<br />
bronze items from <strong>Perugia</strong> and<br />
Central Italy, and the gold <strong>di</strong>scs<br />
from Gualdo Ta<strong>di</strong>no are particularly<br />
interesting.<br />
Since 2000, another section of the<br />
Bellucci Collection has also been<br />
open to visitors. This section <strong>di</strong>splays<br />
part of the rich collection of<br />
amulets and magic-religious instruments<br />
(21.13), comprising<br />
over 1700 objects, from the Central-Southern<br />
Italy, classified by<br />
type from the prehistoric era<br />
through the twentieth century.<br />
21.13 21.14<br />
Specimens from the Guardabassi<br />
Collection (21.14) are also <strong>di</strong>splayed,<br />
chiefly Roman artefacts<br />
that were collected over the years<br />
by <strong>Perugia</strong> painter and scholar<br />
Mariano Guardabassi (1823-80),<br />
who wrote the famous In<strong>di</strong>ce-<br />
Guida dei monumenti perugini<br />
[“Index and Guide to the Monuments<br />
of <strong>Perugia</strong>”]. Noteworthy<br />
artefacts include several Roman<br />
signet rings, Roman acorn-missiles,<br />
and an exquisite mirrored<br />
casket in gilded bronze from the<br />
Hellenistic Age.<br />
25
III - The Etruscan necropolises<br />
and the territory<br />
The necropolises represent important<br />
archaeological evidence<br />
in the <strong>Perugia</strong> area, and they<br />
are an extraor<strong>di</strong>nary source of<br />
knowledge about the city’s artistic<br />
culture and social order.<br />
They were located outside the<br />
city walls, on the sides of the<br />
main roads exiting the city<br />
gates, and thus they pertained to<br />
both the city and its suburbs.<br />
There are numerous necropolises,<br />
composed of underground<br />
chamber or trench burials –<br />
some of which date as far back<br />
as the sixth century BC – but the<br />
ones open to visitors are mainly<br />
the later tombs.<br />
To reach the Speran<strong>di</strong>o necropolis<br />
(22), we can set out from the<br />
Arco Etrusco and cross Corso<br />
Garibal<strong>di</strong> and Via dello Speran<strong>di</strong>o.<br />
This necropolis is composed<br />
mainly of chamber tombs,<br />
though there are also chest and<br />
trench tombs, and it was used<br />
uninterruptedly from the sixth<br />
to the second century BC.<br />
Though the practice of interment<br />
predominated, there is also<br />
evidence of cremation, as<br />
demonstrated by the numerous<br />
small travertine urns. Funerary<br />
cippi and pottery, bronze and<br />
iron materials have also been<br />
found at the necropolis and are<br />
now at museums in <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
and Florence, and at the British<br />
Museum in London. One of the<br />
more recent chamber tombs<br />
(late fourth-third century BC)<br />
can also be visited (see the Gen-<br />
22<br />
eral Information page). Recently<br />
restored, it still has the large<br />
stone slab that sealed the entrance.<br />
Inside is a simple sandstone<br />
sarcophagus pertaining to<br />
the wealthy owner of gold jewellery<br />
(now at the Florence museum),<br />
inclu<strong>di</strong>ng a priceless <strong>di</strong>adem,<br />
hence the name “Tomb of<br />
the Princess”.<br />
To get from the northern necropolises<br />
to the western ones at<br />
Madonna Alta and Ferro <strong>di</strong> Ca -<br />
vallo, head west out of the city.<br />
The necropolises can be reached<br />
by car or bus.<br />
The Madonna Alta necropolis<br />
was <strong>di</strong>scovered accidentally<br />
near Centova during work to<br />
build the E45 state road, and it<br />
can be reached from Via Cortonese<br />
or from the link to the<br />
E45. After crossing a viaduct, we<br />
come to a small square, above<br />
which – at the top of a hill –<br />
there are six chamber tombs,<br />
carved from the terrain. Their<br />
walls and ceilings are clad with<br />
blocks of travertine. Only one of
these tombs was found intact. It<br />
has a double-pitched roof and<br />
contained 16 travertine ciner -<br />
ary urns with inscriptions in<strong>di</strong>cating<br />
that they pertained to the<br />
Alfa family. The necropolis dates<br />
back to the second-first century<br />
BC.<br />
Hypogeum of San Manno<br />
The tomb was located along the<br />
important road that led to Lake<br />
Trasimeno and Chiusi, signal -<br />
led by the presence of various<br />
necropolises, about 5 kilometres<br />
from <strong>Perugia</strong> in the town of Ferro<br />
<strong>di</strong> Cavallo.<br />
It can currently be seen as the<br />
crypt of the Chapel of San Manno<br />
(23), inside the architectural<br />
complex owned by the Sovereign<br />
Military Order of Malta.<br />
23<br />
The church is decorated with<br />
fourteenth- and sixteenth-century<br />
frescoes. A staircase that was<br />
subsequently opened through<br />
the back wall leads to a tomb<br />
that is covered entirely with<br />
large travertine blocks arranged<br />
in even rows. The vast rectangular<br />
chamber (7.70 x 4.05 x 3.65<br />
m), with two small niches, is<br />
covered by a striking barrel<br />
vault. The inscription arranged<br />
in three lines on the wall to the<br />
left of the current entrance is<br />
particularly significant. It is<br />
one of the longest extant Etrus -<br />
can funerary texts (5 m), and it<br />
makes it possible to attribute the<br />
tomb to the Etruscan Precu family;<br />
the text names the father, the<br />
mother and two siblings, Aule<br />
and Larth. The hypogeum is the<br />
most important architectural<br />
example of the types constructed<br />
with barrel vaults, which were<br />
widespread in the area. It has<br />
been dated to the third-second<br />
century BC and is comparable<br />
to the tomb at Colle <strong>di</strong> Bettona.<br />
Restoration work is currently<br />
underway on it (see the General<br />
Information page).<br />
As we leave <strong>Perugia</strong> and head<br />
southwest along the current<br />
Pievaiola state road, near the<br />
town of Castel del Piano we<br />
come to the necropolis of Strozzacapponi<br />
(Municipality of Corciano)<br />
(24). The tombs, which<br />
were uncovered in stages starting<br />
in the nineteenth century<br />
24<br />
27
during agricultural and construction<br />
work, are part of an<br />
extensive necropolis that was<br />
used between the second and<br />
first century BC. This was the<br />
historic phase of the transition<br />
from the Etruscan civilization<br />
to the Roman one, as confirmed<br />
by the linguistic changes that<br />
can be noted on the urn inscriptions:<br />
the older ones are in E -<br />
trus can and the later ones in<br />
Latin. Their location near the<br />
quarries of Santa Sabina suggests<br />
the proximity of a settlement<br />
of travertine workers. This<br />
theory is also backed by the<br />
me<strong>di</strong>um-low social status of the<br />
deceased. The central part is<br />
composed of chamber tombs,<br />
carved into the travertine bed,<br />
with platforms along the side to<br />
hold the funerary accoutrements.<br />
A vestibule led to a<br />
door closed off with a travertine<br />
slab. The ceilings, mainly double-pitched,<br />
have given way in<br />
many cases. The part that is currently<br />
open to visitors is located<br />
under a shop buil<strong>di</strong>ng (see the<br />
General Information page).<br />
At this point, we can continue to<br />
Corciano, a delightful little me<strong>di</strong>aeval<br />
town. In the town hall,<br />
visitors can see the palaeontological<br />
collection (skeletons of<br />
animals from the Middle Lower<br />
Pleistocene and fossil fragments),<br />
and the archaeological<br />
collection, with fin<strong>di</strong>ngs from<br />
the area that include two large<br />
Villanovan vases, cinerary urns<br />
from the Etruscan-Roman era,<br />
funerary cippi and bases (25).<br />
Among these, the travertine one<br />
with an Etruscan votive inscription<br />
honouring an infernal deity,<br />
from Taverne <strong>di</strong> Corciano, is<br />
particularly important (26).<br />
26<br />
25<br />
The two travertine lions at the<br />
foot of the stairs lea<strong>di</strong>ng to Piazza<br />
dei Caduti are also noteworthy.<br />
They can probably be attributed<br />
to a Roman funerary monument<br />
datable between the first<br />
century BC and the first century<br />
AD (27).<br />
27
The Palazzone necropolis (named<br />
after the villa of Count Baglioni,<br />
who owned the estate on which the<br />
necropolis was found) is located<br />
outside <strong>Perugia</strong> to the southeast,<br />
on the road to Assisi along the Piscille-Ponte<br />
San Giovanni portion.<br />
It is about 7 kilometres from the<br />
centre of <strong>Perugia</strong>.<br />
It has nearly 200 chamber tombs<br />
cut into the hillside over the<br />
Tiber. With the exception of five<br />
attributable to the sixth-fifth<br />
century BC, the tombs date back<br />
to the Hellenistic Age. Most have<br />
simple chambers or cells with<br />
an entrance corridor, and they<br />
are closed off by a travertine<br />
slab. They are attributable to<br />
family groups belonging to the<br />
late Etruscan aristocracy, as<br />
can be deduced from the accoutrements<br />
and the inscriptions<br />
on the cinerary urns (28), which<br />
are preserved in the buil<strong>di</strong>ng at<br />
the entrance to the most famous<br />
28<br />
tomb at this necropolis, the Hypogeum<br />
of the Volumni.<br />
From Ponte San Giovanni, we<br />
can proceed to Torgiano, where<br />
the museums of the Lungarotti<br />
foundation also house important<br />
archaeological collections.<br />
At the village of Vecchio <strong>di</strong> Miralduolo<br />
near Torgiano, there is an<br />
important Roman chamber tomb<br />
that was <strong>di</strong>scovered by chance in<br />
1973. Extensively damaged, it has<br />
now been restored and protected.<br />
The tomb has a rectangular plan<br />
and was constructed in cement.<br />
Inside there is a barrel vault that<br />
was plastered and painted, and a<br />
platform along the back wall held<br />
the remains of the deceased. The<br />
jambs and architraves of the entrance,<br />
sealed by a travertine<br />
slab, are likewise made of travertine,<br />
like the tombs with barrel<br />
29<br />
vaults from the Hellenistic Age.<br />
The tomb was violated when it<br />
was <strong>di</strong>scovered, and as a result<br />
there is no information about the<br />
burial depositions or the number<br />
of accoutrements, of which there<br />
remain only a few objects belonging<br />
to a woman (gemstones and<br />
toilet articles) (29). The tomb,<br />
which is not open to the general<br />
public, has been dated to the first<br />
century AD.<br />
From Torgiano, we can go to<br />
Deruta, where archaeological<br />
collections are <strong>di</strong>splayed at the<br />
Regional Ceramics Museum.<br />
29
Hypogeum of the Volumni (30.1)<br />
A steep dromos (entrance corridor)<br />
leads to the door, whose<br />
jambs, architrave and closing<br />
slab are made of travertine.<br />
There is an Etruscan inscription<br />
on the right jamb, commemorating<br />
the foundation of<br />
the tomb by Arunte and Lars<br />
Volumnio. This complex underground<br />
architectural space reproduced<br />
the layout of a Roman-<br />
Italic house, with a central atrium,<br />
tablinum (correspon<strong>di</strong>ng to<br />
the chamber at the far end), and<br />
two small cells on each of the two<br />
sides (30.2). A perpen<strong>di</strong>cular<br />
room in front of the tablinum<br />
leads to two small rooms with<br />
platforms.<br />
The ceilings are decorated to<br />
imitate wooden beams and coffered<br />
ornamentation. The central<br />
panel of the ceiling of the<br />
chamber at the far end is deco-<br />
30.2<br />
30.1<br />
rated with a Medusa’s head. The<br />
relief work on the fronton of the<br />
entrance to the atrium reproduces<br />
a shield with a Gorgon’s<br />
head between two dolphins.<br />
Across from this, on the sides of<br />
the entrance to the tablinum,<br />
are the remains of what appear<br />
to be protomes of snakes with an<br />
apotropaic meaning. On the<br />
fronton over this is a shield with
30.3<br />
a Gorgon’s head between<br />
swords, surmounted by doves<br />
and two male protomes. The<br />
platforms of the chamber at the<br />
far end hold seven cinerary<br />
urns, the most notable of which<br />
is the one in the middle of the<br />
back wall; accor<strong>di</strong>ng to the inscription,<br />
it can be attributed to<br />
the head of the family, Arunte<br />
Volumnio, son of Aule (30.3). It<br />
is composed of a base with the<br />
gate of Hades painted in the<br />
middle, flanked by two Lasas, or<br />
infernal deities, in relief. Set on<br />
this is an urn in the shape of a<br />
kline (banqueting couch) with<br />
the deceased in a semi-recumbent<br />
position. One of the urns<br />
portraying a seated female figure<br />
pertains to Velia Volumnia<br />
(30.4), Arunte’s daughter. The<br />
only marble urn, in the shape of<br />
a small temple, pertains to<br />
Aulo’s son Publius Volumnius,<br />
and it has a Latin epigraph that<br />
can be dated to the early Imperial<br />
Age. The hypogeum is datable<br />
between the second half of<br />
the third century BC and the<br />
first century AD.<br />
30.4<br />
Visitors are urged to follow the<br />
path through the necropolis,<br />
marked by educational signs, to<br />
the Palazzone Antiquarium,<br />
which hosts temporary themebased<br />
exhibits of archaeological<br />
fin<strong>di</strong>ngs.<br />
31
Torgiano. Wine Museum (31.1)<br />
31.1<br />
The Wine Museum (in Palazzo Graziani Baglioni) is devoted to the production<br />
and spread of viticulture and wine around the Me<strong>di</strong>terranean, from antiquity<br />
through modern times.<br />
Room I <strong>di</strong>splays Cycla<strong>di</strong>c (31.2), Anatolian, Greek, Italiote,<br />
Etruscan and Roman wine receptacles. There are<br />
noteworthy Proto-Corinthian and Attic cups (31.1),<br />
bronzes, Bucchero ware, glassware and an interesting<br />
type of Greek and Roman amphorae, used to transport<br />
wine on ships (31.3).<br />
31.2<br />
Room IX has material<br />
from the Torgiano area,<br />
with the remains of cisterns,<br />
villae rusticae and<br />
Etruscan-Roman necropolises.<br />
31.3<br />
Foto Museo del Vino - Fondazione Lungarotti, Torgiano
Foto Museo dell'Olivo e dell'Olio - Fondazione Lungarotti, Torgiano<br />
Torgiano. Olive and<br />
Oil Museum<br />
The Olive and Oil Museum is<br />
de<strong>di</strong>cated to the botanical characteristics<br />
of the olive tree, various<br />
cultivation techniques from<br />
antiquity through today, and the<br />
spread of olive-growing around<br />
the Me<strong>di</strong>terranean.<br />
32<br />
In particular, Room V focuses on<br />
the sacred nature of the olive<br />
tree, the gift of the goddess<br />
Athena. Artefacts include an extraor<strong>di</strong>nary<br />
Daedalic oil lamp<br />
(620-610 BC) made of Parian<br />
marble (32), an Attic red-figure<br />
alàbastron (ointment vase) by<br />
the Foundry Painter (490-480<br />
BC), and an Apulian red-figure<br />
skyphos (deep cup). Showcase 1<br />
of Room VII holds an extraor<strong>di</strong>nary<br />
collection of oil lamps from<br />
the pre-Roman era to the early<br />
Middle Ages.<br />
Deruta.<br />
Regional Ceramics Museum<br />
Milziade Magnini Collection<br />
It comprises approximately<br />
1000 pieces from various regions,<br />
particularly Apulia and<br />
Lucania, inclu<strong>di</strong>ng a noteworthy<br />
series of Apulian pottery<br />
from the fourth century BC.<br />
33.1<br />
33.2<br />
Some of the most noteworthy<br />
items are a trozzella, a unique<br />
form of Messapian pottery<br />
(33.1), and a figured bellshaped<br />
krater (33.2).<br />
33<br />
© Fototeca del Servizio Musei e Beni Culturali della Regione dell’Umbria
The Faggeto Tomb<br />
Exiting the north<br />
part of the city and<br />
going through Elce,<br />
San Marco and<br />
Cenerente, we come<br />
to Colle Umberto,<br />
which is about 30<br />
minutes from the<br />
centre of <strong>Perugia</strong> by<br />
car or bus.<br />
From here, after taking<br />
the provincial<br />
road for Umbertide<br />
and then an unmarked<br />
route up the<br />
slopes of Mount<br />
Tezio, it is a 30- or<br />
40-minute walk to<br />
the summit of Cresta<br />
34<br />
della Fornace (607<br />
metres above sea level).<br />
Just past a small clearing, there is a narrow trail. From here, it is an<br />
easy five-minute walk to the Faggeto tomb (591 metres above sea level),<br />
which is visible inside a small enclosure circled by young cypress trees. It<br />
was <strong>di</strong>scovered by chance in 1920 on an estate that is private even today, in<br />
an enchanting natural setting. There is a sweeping view from south to west,<br />
from Mount Peglia to Montarale, Mount Cetona, Castel Rigone and Preggio.<br />
A corridor flanked by two walls leads to the door (34), composed of a heavy<br />
rectangular slab of sandstone (144 x 75 x 11 cm) still set on hinges in the architrave<br />
and threshold. It is a small burial chamber with a rectangular<br />
plan, with a barrel vault and ashlars arranged in a ra<strong>di</strong>al pattern. The<br />
tomb was built using blocks of local stone, set in rather even rows. On the<br />
sides there are traces of a platform, where a travertine cinerary urn was <strong>di</strong>scovered<br />
– based on the inscription, it can be attributed to Arnth Cairnina –<br />
and a few other accoutrements. The tomb is datable to the second half of the<br />
second century BC.<br />
Other trails, inclu<strong>di</strong>ng one from the town of San Giovanni del Pantano, also<br />
lead to the site.<br />
Interested hikers are urged to obtain Kompass Tourist Map n. 663 “<strong>Perugia</strong>-<br />
Deruta” (scale 1:5000) or visit the site www.montideltezio.it, which provides<br />
telephone numbers for ad<strong>di</strong>tional visiting information available from “Associazione<br />
Socioculturale Monti del Tezio”.
Tourist information<br />
SERVIZIO TURISTICO TERRITORIALE ASSOCIATO<br />
(Tourist services - Communes of <strong>Perugia</strong>, Corciano,<br />
Deruta, Torgiano)<br />
Via Mazzini, 6 - 06121 <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
Tel. +39 075 5728937 - Fax +39 075 5739386<br />
IAT <strong>di</strong> <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
Sala San Severo - Palazzo dei Priori<br />
Piazza IV Novembre, 3 - 06123 <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
Tel. +39 075 5736458 - Fax +39 075 5720988<br />
Opening hours: weekdays 8:30-13:30 a.m./3:30-6:30 p.m.<br />
Holidays 9:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m.<br />
www.perugia.umbria2000.it - info@iat.perugia.it<br />
www.comune.perugia.it - iat@comune.perugia.it<br />
Out-of-town infopoints<br />
Motorway junction (Madonna Alta exit):<br />
area in front of the Centro Congressi Aldo Capitini<br />
Ponte San Giovanni:<br />
Esso service station Route E45, 69 km + 670 m<br />
Tourist guide service<br />
Guides in Umbria - <strong>Perugia</strong> Cooperative<br />
Tel. +39 075 5732933 - Fax +39 075 5727235<br />
www.guideinumbria.com<br />
info@guideinumbria.com<br />
Tourist Guide Association of Umbria - Assisi<br />
Tel. +39 075 815228<br />
Fax +39 075 815229<br />
www.assoguide.it<br />
info@assoguide.it<br />
Sistema Museo<br />
Museum info-line<br />
Guided and educational visits<br />
(information and booking)<br />
199 101 330<br />
www.sistemamuseo.it
European Union<br />
Republic of Italy<br />
<strong>Perugia</strong> Municipality Corciano Municipality Deruta Municipality Torgiano Municipality<br />
Produced with the contribution of the European Union<br />
INFORMATION AND TOURIST WELCOME OFFICES<br />
IAT <strong>di</strong> <strong>Perugia</strong> (Communes of <strong>Perugia</strong>, Corciano,<br />
Deruta, Torgiano)<br />
Sala San Severo - Palazzo dei Priori<br />
Piazza IV Novembre, 3 - 06123 <strong>Perugia</strong><br />
Tel. +39 075 5736458 - 5772686<br />
Fax +39 075 5739386<br />
info@iat.perugia.it<br />
IAT <strong>di</strong> Terni (Communes of Terni, Acquasparta,<br />
Arrone, Calvi dell'Umbria, Ferentillo,<br />
Montefranco, Narni, Otricoli, Polino,<br />
San Gemini, Stroncone)<br />
Viale Cassian Bon, 2/4 - 05100 TERNI<br />
Tel. +39 0744 423047 - Fax +39 0744 427259<br />
info@iat.terni.it<br />
IAT <strong>di</strong> Amelia (Communes of Amelia, Alviano,<br />
Attigliano, Avigliano, Giove, Guardea, Lugnano<br />
in Teverina, Montecastrilli, Penna in Teverina)<br />
Via Orvieto, 1 - 05022 AMELIA<br />
Tel. +39 0744 981453 - Fax +39 0744 981566<br />
info@iat.amelia.tr.it<br />
IAT <strong>di</strong> Assisi (Communes of Assisi, Bastia<br />
Umbra, Bettona, Cannara)<br />
Piazza del <strong>Comune</strong> - 06081 ASSISI<br />
Tel. +39 075 812534 - Fax +39 075 813727<br />
info@iat.assisi.pg.it<br />
IAT <strong>di</strong> Cascia (Communes of Cascia, Cerreto<br />
<strong>di</strong> Spoleto, Monteleone <strong>di</strong> Spoleto, Norcia,<br />
Poggiodomo, Preci, Sant'Anatolia <strong>di</strong> Narco,<br />
Scheggino, Vallo <strong>di</strong> Nera)<br />
Piazza Garibal<strong>di</strong>, 1 - 06043 CASCIA<br />
Tel. +39 0743 71147 - Fax +39 0743 76630<br />
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IAT <strong>di</strong> Castiglione del Lago (Communes<br />
of Castiglione del Lago, Città della Pieve,<br />
Magione, Paciano, Panicale, Passignano<br />
sul Trasimeno, Piegaro, Tuoro sul Trasimeno)<br />
Piazza Mazzini, 10 - 06061 CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO<br />
Tel. +39 075 9652484 - 9652738<br />
Fax +39 075 9652763<br />
info@iat.castiglione-del-lago.pg.it<br />
DEL PERUGINO<br />
Region of Umbria<br />
Tourist Promotion<br />
Regional Agency<br />
IAT <strong>di</strong> Città <strong>di</strong> Castello (Communes of Città<br />
<strong>di</strong> Castello, Citerna, Lisciano Niccone, Monte<br />
Santa Maria Tiberina, Montone, Pietralunga,<br />
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Piazza Matteotti - Logge Bufalini<br />
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Tel. +39 075 8554922 - Fax +39 075 8552100<br />
info@iat.citta-<strong>di</strong>-castello.pg.it<br />
IAT <strong>di</strong> Foligno (Communes of Foligno, Bevagna,<br />
Gualdo Cattaneo, Montefalco, Nocera Umbra,<br />
Sellano, Spello, Trevi, Valtopina)<br />
Corso Cavour, 126 - 06034 FOLIGNO<br />
Tel. +39 0742 354459 - 354165<br />
Fax +39 0742 340545<br />
info@iat.foligno.pg.it<br />
IAT <strong>di</strong> Gubbio (Communes of Gubbio,<br />
Costacciaro, Fossato <strong>di</strong> Vico, Gualdo Ta<strong>di</strong>no,<br />
Scheggia, Sigillo, Valfabbrica)<br />
Piazza Oderisi, 6 - 06024 GUBBIO<br />
Tel. +39 075 9220693 - Fax +39 075 9273409<br />
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IAT <strong>di</strong> Orvieto (Communes of Orvieto, Allerona,<br />
Baschi, Castelgiorgio, Castel Viscardo, Fabro,<br />
Ficulle, Montecchio, Montegabbione,<br />
Monteleone <strong>di</strong> Orvieto, Parrano, Porano,<br />
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Piazza Duomo, 24 - 05018 ORVIETO<br />
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IAT <strong>di</strong> Spoleto (Communes of Spoleto, Campello<br />
sul Clitunno, Castel Rital<strong>di</strong>, Giano dell'Umbria)<br />
Piazza della Libertà, 7 - 06049 SPOLETO<br />
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IAT <strong>di</strong> To<strong>di</strong> (Communes of To<strong>di</strong>, Collazzone,<br />
Fratta To<strong>di</strong>na, Marsciano, Massa Martana,<br />
Monte Castello <strong>di</strong> Vibio)<br />
Piazza del Popolo 28/29 - 06059 TODI<br />
Tel. +39 075 8945416 - 8942526<br />
Fax +39 075 8942406<br />
info@iat.to<strong>di</strong>.pg.it<br />
ORGANIZZAZIONE TURISTICA REGIONALE<br />
Agenzia <strong>di</strong> Promozione Turistica dell’Umbria (Tourist promotion agency of Umbria)<br />
via Mazzini, 21 - 06121 PERUGIA - Tel. +39 075 575951 - Fax +39 075 5736828<br />
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