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Itineraries - Comune di Perugia

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PERUGIA CORCIANO DERUTA TORGIANO<br />

<strong>Itineraries</strong><br />

Guide to the sites, museums and collections<br />

in the <strong>Perugia</strong> <strong>di</strong>strict<br />

sistema turistico locale del perugino


MAP OF CITY ITINERARIES<br />

17<br />

upa<br />

4<br />

Pellini<br />

Via dei Priori<br />

6<br />

5<br />

16<br />

15<br />

14<br />

3<br />

12<br />

2<br />

C o r s o V a n n u c c i 1<br />

7<br />

20<br />

9<br />

18<br />

12<br />

8<br />

1<br />

13<br />

Merc<br />

Cope


1<br />

ato<br />

rto<br />

19<br />

Via P i n t u r i c c h i o<br />

P i n t u r i c c h i o<br />

Briglie<br />

21<br />

S. Antonio<br />

10<br />

L.go <strong>di</strong><br />

Porta Pesa<br />

20<br />

C o r s o G . G a r i b a l d i<br />

V i a B o r g o x x G i u g n o<br />

19


General information<br />

PERUGIA – ITINERARY I<br />

Conca postern – free admission request –<br />

contact IAT<br />

Wall of the university at Piazza Ermini<br />

closed Saturdays, holidays and during<br />

lectures<br />

PERUGIA – ITINERARY II<br />

Pozzo Etrusco<br />

Piazza Danti, 18 - tel. +39 075 573-3669<br />

Admission charge<br />

Chapter Museum of the Cathedral<br />

of San Lorenzo<br />

Piazza IV Novembre - tel. +39 075 572-4853<br />

Admission charge<br />

Archaeological area<br />

Piazza Cavallotti - tel. +39 075 572-7141<br />

www.archeopg.arti.beniculturali.it<br />

free admission<br />

Roman mosaic<br />

Via Pascoli – courtyard of the University<br />

of <strong>Perugia</strong> – free admission<br />

Museum of Palazzo Della Penna<br />

Via Po<strong>di</strong>ani, 11 - tel. +39 075 571-6233<br />

Admission charge<br />

PLACES OF WORSHIP: churches-oratories<br />

Oratory of San Bernar<strong>di</strong>no<br />

Piazza San Francesco al Prato<br />

tel. +39 075 573-3957<br />

8 am-noon/4pm-sunset<br />

Church of Sant’Ercolano<br />

Via Sant’Ercolano - tel. +39 075 572-2297<br />

the church is currently closed for restoration<br />

Church of San Pietro<br />

Borgo XX Giugno, 74 - tel. +39 075 34770<br />

Church of Sant’Angelo<br />

Via Sant’Angelo (Corso Garibal<strong>di</strong>)<br />

tel. +39 075 572-2624<br />

NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM<br />

OF UMBRIA<br />

Piazza Giordano Bruno, 10<br />

tel. +39 075 572-7141<br />

www.archeopg.arti.beniculturali.it<br />

Admission charge<br />

THE ETRUSCAN NECROPOLISES<br />

AND THE TERRITORY – ITINERARY III<br />

Speran<strong>di</strong>o Necropolis<br />

private property<br />

admission by reservation through IAT<br />

Madonna Alta Necropolis – free admission<br />

Hypogeum of San Manno<br />

Ferro <strong>di</strong> Cavallo<br />

for visits, contact Opera Agnus Dei<br />

tel. +39 075 573-6776<br />

Hypogeum of the Volumni and<br />

the Palazzone Necropolis - Antiquarium<br />

Via Assisana, 53 – Ponte San Giovanni<br />

tel. +39 075 393-329<br />

www.archeopg.arti.beniculturali.it<br />

Admission charge<br />

Corciano<br />

Palaeontological Museum<br />

and Archaeological Collection<br />

Corso Car<strong>di</strong>nale L. Rotelli –<br />

Town Hall<br />

tel. +39 075 518-8254/5 – visits on request<br />

Etruscan Necropolis<br />

Strozzacapponi<br />

for visits, contact the owner<br />

of the shop on site<br />

tel. +39 075 514-0148/9<br />

Deruta<br />

Regional Ceramics Museum –<br />

archaeological collections.<br />

Largo San Francesco – tel. +39 075 971-1000<br />

www.museoceramicaderuta.it<br />

Admission charge<br />

Torgiano<br />

Lungarotti Foundation<br />

- Wine Museum – Palazzo Baglioni<br />

Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 11<br />

tel. +39 075 988-0200<br />

- Olive and Oil Museum<br />

Via Giuseppe Garibal<strong>di</strong>, 10<br />

tel. +39 075 988-0300<br />

www.lungarotti.it<br />

Admission charge<br />

Hours can vary. Phone ahead or contact the Tourist Information Office.<br />

Information compiled by Nicole Danner


Table of Contents<br />

The territory in ancient times<br />

I - <strong>Perugia</strong>. Circuit of the walls and gates<br />

II - <strong>Perugia</strong>. Urban archaeology<br />

The National Archaeological Museum of Umbria<br />

III - The Etruscan necropolises and the territory:<br />

Corciano - Deruta - Torgiano<br />

p. 5<br />

p. 8<br />

p. 15<br />

p. 19<br />

p. 24


Project and text<br />

Lorena Rosi Bonci<br />

Scientific collaboration<br />

Paolo Braconi<br />

Printed by<br />

Quattroemme, <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

Traslation by<br />

Stu<strong>di</strong>o Fünf s.n.c.<br />

Cover<br />

Urn from the Tomb of the Cutu.<br />

National Archaeological Museum<br />

of <strong>Perugia</strong>, third century BC<br />

(photo archives, Arch. Superintendence<br />

of Umbria)<br />

Page 3, top<br />

Segment of the Etruscan walls<br />

on Via della Canapina in <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

(photo by G. Aglietti – Quattroemme)<br />

Page 3, bottom<br />

Urn of Arunte Volumnio,<br />

Hypogeum of the Volumni<br />

(photo by G. Aglietti - Quattroemme)<br />

This page<br />

Urn with the Sacrifice of Iphigenia, from<br />

the necropolis of Ponticello <strong>di</strong> Campo,<br />

Ponte San Giovanni, <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

(photo by A. Scaleggi)<br />

Page 5<br />

“Arco Etrusco”, by U. Tarchi, L’arte<br />

etrusco-romana nell’Umbria e nella<br />

Sabina, Bergamo 1936<br />

Photographic references<br />

Archives of the Archaeological<br />

Superintendence of Umbria, <strong>Perugia</strong>:<br />

nos. 13, 16, 21.1-4,6,7,9-14, 23, 30.1-4<br />

Photographic Library of the Museum and<br />

Cultural Services of the Region of Umbria,<br />

<strong>Perugia</strong>: nos. 33, 34<br />

Wine Museum. Lungarotti Foundation,<br />

Torgiano: nos. 31.1-3<br />

Olive and Oil Museum. Lungarotti<br />

Foundation, Torgiano: no. 32<br />

Giovanni Aglietti – Quattroemme: nos. 1, 2,<br />

5-8, 11, 13, 14, 17, 19.a, 20, 21.1, 22,<br />

24-28, 30.1,3,4<br />

Paolo Braconi: nos. 10, 12.1-4<br />

Simona Cortona: no. 3<br />

Adamo Scaleggi: nos. 21.5-8<br />

Enrico Chianella: no. 7.a<br />

We are especially grateful<br />

to the Archaeological Superintendence<br />

of Umbria and to Simonetta Stopponi<br />

This guidebook is intended as a tool to help visitors learn about and enjoy<br />

the immense archaeological heritage of the city of <strong>Perugia</strong> and its outlying<br />

<strong>di</strong>stricts. It provides visitors interested in antiquity with a series of theme-based<br />

itineraries, which can be conducted independently or with tour guides.<br />

The itineraries can be completed on foot, or with public or private transportation,<br />

and can take one day or more. Naturally, the itineraries can be connected with<br />

each other and supplemented with other historic-artistic itineraries, for a more<br />

complete understan<strong>di</strong>ng of the city and its environs. Before starting on these<br />

itineraries, visitors are advised to check any practical information they may need<br />

(parking, roads, hours, accessibility, reservation requirements, admission fees) at<br />

the information and welcome points of the Territorial Tourism Service of <strong>Perugia</strong>.


The territory in ancient times<br />

The territory examined here is the central part of Umbria. Starting in the Archaic<br />

Age, it was organized into Etruscan cities and fortified Umbro settlements<br />

that were later transformed into municipia and coloniae by the Romanization<br />

process.<br />

The area marked the point of convergence of two milieus that were ethnically<br />

and culturally <strong>di</strong>stinct: the Umbro and the Etruscan populations, which<br />

respectively settled to the left and right of the Tiber. Indeed, for many centuries<br />

a long stretch of the river acted as the boundary between the two territories –<br />

albeit somewhat changeably – and, ultimately, it marked the frontier between<br />

regio VI (Umbria) and regio VII (Etruria) during the Augustan Age. Rather<br />

than being a true boundary, however, the Tiber was actually a key means of<br />

communication, trade and cultural exchange between the river populations<br />

and with Rome. The river was navigable by various means from Tifernum<br />

Tiberinum (modern-day Città <strong>di</strong> Castello) all the way to Ostia.<br />

Starting in very ancient times, <strong>Perugia</strong> played a dominant role in the surroun<strong>di</strong>ng<br />

area, due to its eminent geographical position (set at an altitude<br />

of 493 metres above sea level) overlooking the Tiber at the point where it flows<br />

into the Umbrian Valley, which was controlled by the ancient cities of Assisi,<br />

Spello and Spoleto. Disregar<strong>di</strong>ng the debate on whether the city was founded<br />

by the Umbro tribes or the Etruscans, starting in the Archaic Age (seventhsixth<br />

century BC) and particularly as of the fifth-fourth century BC, a period<br />

that is even more extensively documented, <strong>Perugia</strong> was one of the most important<br />

cities of inland Etruria, together with nearby Chiusi to the west and<br />

Orvieto to the south. With its outposts of Arna and Vettona to the left of the<br />

Tiber, it rapidly gained control over both banks of the river as well as its fords.<br />

To the west, through an extension of the Via Amerina from Perusia to Clusium<br />

and its numerous branches, <strong>Perugia</strong> was well connected with Lake Trasimeno,<br />

the Chiusi countryside and Cortona.<br />

7


CORTONA<br />

TRASUMENNUS<br />

Ad Statuas LACUS<br />

S. Albino - Montepulciano<br />

sia<br />

I A<br />

CLUSIUM<br />

Chiusi<br />

Clanis<br />

Via Cassia<br />

Corciano<br />

TIFERNUM TIBERINUM<br />

Città <strong>di</strong> Castello<br />

PERUSIA<br />

<strong>Perugia</strong><br />

Tiberis<br />

Via Amerina<br />

Tiberis<br />

HURVINUM<br />

HORTENSE<br />

Collemancio<br />

TUDER<br />

To<strong>di</strong><br />

IGUVIUM<br />

Gubbio<br />

Arna<br />

Civitella d’Arna<br />

VETTONA<br />

Bettona<br />

ASISIUM<br />

Assisi<br />

HISPELLUM<br />

Spello<br />

MEVANIA<br />

Bevagna<br />

<br />

Via Flaminia<br />

<br />

<br />

Ad Aesim<br />

Scheggia<br />

Forum Flaminii<br />

S. Giovanni Profiamma<br />

Vicus Martis<br />

Massa Martana<br />

<br />

<br />

Helvillum<br />

Fossato <strong>di</strong> Vico<br />

Via Flaminia<br />

Via Flaminia<br />

FULGINIA<br />

Foligno<br />

Judging by its socio-economic and cultural development, starting in the third<br />

century BC <strong>Perugia</strong> took over the leadership in Etruria that had been held by<br />

Orvieto before the Roman conquest (264 BC). The city walls, built in the second<br />

half of the third century BC, were monumentalized with the construction<br />

of two main gates. Moreover, through an extensive buil<strong>di</strong>ng programme the<br />

Pozzo Sorbello (well) was completed, and urban and suburban temples were<br />

erected. The number of necropolises around the city and in the area increased;<br />

these necropolises were characterized by the ritual of cremation in travertine<br />

urns, typically produced in the <strong>Perugia</strong> area. The bellum perusinum (War of<br />

<strong>Perugia</strong>, 41-40 BC), in which the city – which supported Mark Antony’s faction<br />

– was attacked and conquered by Octavian, the future Augustus, concluded<br />

the Romanization phase. The local Etruscan aristocracies were either<br />

completely eliminated or co-opted into the ranks of the Romans. Their lands<br />

were then confiscated and <strong>di</strong>stributed to the veterans of the victorious army,<br />

and the territory of <strong>Perugia</strong> was reduced to just one mile outside the city walls.


The Etruscan-Roman layout of <strong>Perugia</strong> hinged on the crossroads of two thoroughfares.<br />

The main one (cardo maximus) ran north-south from the Arco <strong>di</strong><br />

Augusto (Arch of Augustus) to the gate of Porta Marzia, through modern-day<br />

Corso Vannucci and Piazza IV Novembre. This was the centre of the ancient<br />

city, and the forum of the Roman era was located here. Another road (decumanus<br />

maximus) crossed the city from east to west, from the Arco dei<br />

Gigli to the Arco <strong>di</strong> Porta Trasimena through Via dei Priori (the remains of<br />

the large Roman paving stones, or basolato, are still visible at No. 69 of this<br />

street). Other routes have been identified through occasional fin<strong>di</strong>ngs, or<br />

they have been deduced based on other topographic elements.<br />

The three theme-based itineraries described below cover the walls and<br />

the city gates (I), the archaeological remains in the city (II) and the<br />

archaeological remains in the outlying area (III). Naturally they can<br />

overlap or cross each other: visitors can thus choose an itinerary based<br />

on their needs and the amount of time available.<br />

Nonetheless, it should be noted that visiting the two main gates and at<br />

least one of two best-preserved sections on Via Battisti or Via della Cupa<br />

(pp. 9-10) is essential for a “minimum” understan<strong>di</strong>ng of the city walls.<br />

With regard to the other monuments, particularly significant ones are the<br />

Pozzo Sorbello for the Etruscan era, and the mosaic of Santa Elisabetta<br />

and the temple of Sant’Angelo for the Roman era (see the Itinerary Map<br />

and General Information at the beginning of the book).<br />

9


I - <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

Circuit of the walls<br />

and gates<br />

Our itinerary starts in the historic<br />

centre of <strong>Perugia</strong>, encircled<br />

by Etruscan walls. The latter,<br />

which represent the city’s main<br />

archaeological monument, reflect<br />

the wealth and power<br />

achieved by the Etruscan metropolis,<br />

and they are among the<br />

oldest and most impressive examples<br />

in Central Italy. The<br />

walls extended for about 3 kilometres,<br />

following more or less the<br />

same level curve. The “cloverleaf”<br />

layout is due to the irregular<br />

shape of the two hills inside the<br />

walls (Colle del Sole to the north<br />

and Colle Landone to the south)<br />

and to the deep depressions<br />

carved into these hillsides.<br />

The square blocks of local travertine<br />

(probably from the Santa<br />

Sabina quarries) were laid<br />

without mortar in fairly even<br />

rows. The façade was well finished,<br />

whereas the blocks were<br />

coarsely hewn on the side set<br />

against the embankment. The<br />

chronology of the walls and<br />

gates is still being debated. Accor<strong>di</strong>ng<br />

to the most widely accepted<br />

theory, the monumental<br />

phase visible today dates back to<br />

the third century BC and work<br />

was done on the extant original<br />

walls (built in the mid-fourth<br />

century BC).<br />

Extensive segments are visible<br />

along the north and southeast<br />

sides; there are also six gates, the<br />

main one of which is the Arco<br />

Etrusco or Arco <strong>di</strong> Augusto (1).<br />

1<br />

This gate is 11 metres tall and<br />

has an opening of over 4 metres.<br />

It represents the monumental<br />

north entrance to the city, lea<strong>di</strong>ng<br />

into Piazza Braccio Fortebraccio<br />

located at the northern<br />

end of the cardo maximus (now<br />

Corso Vannucci-Via Rocchi).<br />

Two imposing towers that taper<br />

towards the top delimit the round<br />

arch, composed of two orders of<br />

voussoirs topped by a cornice.<br />

The inscription “AUGUSTA PE-<br />

RUSIA” was added more than two<br />

centuries after it was built, in order<br />

to commemorate the restructuring<br />

work ordered by Augustus<br />

following the bellum perusinum<br />

mentioned in the introduction.<br />

Above this is a second inscription,<br />

“COLONIA VIBIA”, commemorating<br />

the status of ius<br />

coloniae granted by the Roman<br />

emperor C. Vibius Trebonianus<br />

Gallus (251-253 AD), who was<br />

originally from <strong>Perugia</strong>. The remains<br />

of two sandstone sculptures<br />

– in rather poor con<strong>di</strong>tion –<br />

can be seen on the sides of the<br />

arch. A frieze with shields alter-


2<br />

nated with triglyphs (decoration<br />

in groups of three vertical<br />

grooves) separates the gate from a<br />

round arch, now closed, set between<br />

two Ionic pillars. Accor<strong>di</strong>ng<br />

to a recent hypothesis, this<br />

opening was used for weapons<br />

that were hurled to defend<br />

against assaults. Accor<strong>di</strong>ng to<br />

another hypothesis, the upper<br />

arch is what remains of a previous<br />

gate: the sandstone sculptures<br />

– subsequently transferred<br />

to the new gate – were the deities<br />

placed there to protect it. The upper<br />

part of the arch was restructured<br />

during the Renaissance, as<br />

demonstrated by the loggia<br />

crowning the east tower.<br />

To the right of the gate is one of the<br />

most striking segments of the city<br />

walls, located along Via Cesare<br />

Battisti (2), a road constructed at<br />

the beginning of the twentieth century.<br />

Along this well-preserved<br />

segment, there is a clearly evident<br />

stringcourse marking the walkways<br />

used for patrols. The cornice<br />

rises counterslope with respect to<br />

the road level and it is sustained<br />

by compact limestone ashlars<br />

that are clearly <strong>di</strong>fferent from the<br />

others. Evident on the upper and<br />

oblique band of the wall is the<br />

seam between the older wall and<br />

the ad<strong>di</strong>tion of the towered gate,<br />

which is more recent.<br />

Our itinerary continues to the<br />

me<strong>di</strong>aeval arch on Via Appia,<br />

near which the second gate of the<br />

Etruscan walls must have been<br />

located. The stairs lead to the<br />

me<strong>di</strong>aeval passageway of the<br />

aqueduct: from the time this<br />

passageway was built, it was<br />

connected with the postern<br />

3<br />

(small gate), known as the Conca<br />

(3), marking the pedestrian<br />

access to a steeply sloped route.<br />

The walls re-emerge to the west in<br />

the gardens under Via del<br />

Verzaro and in Piazza Ermini,<br />

inside the rooms of the university’s<br />

Department of Educational<br />

Sciences, where the only internal<br />

portion of the walls is visible. The<br />

surface of the blocks is uneven, as<br />

they were originally part of the<br />

foundation and were set against<br />

the embankment. The walls then<br />

continue on Via del Poggio, en<strong>di</strong>ng<br />

and then reappearing at the<br />

point where Via del Piscinello enters<br />

Porta Trasimena – also<br />

known as Porta San Luca (4) –<br />

11


at the end of Via dei Priori. The<br />

piers, which now serve as the imposts<br />

for the me<strong>di</strong>aeval arch, are<br />

all that remain of the original<br />

Etruscan structure.<br />

The walls continue on Via Tornetta<br />

and Via della Canapina (near<br />

Porta Santa Susanna, with a<br />

route going from Via della Sposa<br />

to Piazza del Drago). They then<br />

curve to the southwest on Via della<br />

Cupa, where one of the best-preserved<br />

portions can be admired.<br />

The stringcourse, which in<strong>di</strong>cates<br />

the probable internal level of the<br />

city, is noteworthy.<br />

As we descend to the base of the<br />

wall, we can see the Cupa postern<br />

(5), another pedestrian passageway<br />

entering the city. This small<br />

opening is equi<strong>di</strong>stant between<br />

Porta Trasimena and Porta della<br />

Mandorla, at the point where the<br />

walls were wedged deeply into the<br />

“slash” created by the Cupa trench,<br />

forming a steep route connected<br />

<strong>di</strong>rectly with the centre of town.<br />

5<br />

The remains of an Etruscan gate<br />

can be seen in the Arco della Mandorla<br />

(6), between Via Bruschi<br />

and Via San Giacomo. The original<br />

voussoirs are still visible on<br />

7<br />

6<br />

the right side of the arch, rising as<br />

far as the imposts of the top of the<br />

arch, which was replaced by an<br />

ogive.<br />

A lovely segment of the walls – albeit<br />

extensively restructured –<br />

continues to the left, along the<br />

stairs of Via del Para<strong>di</strong>so. Several<br />

fragmentary inscriptions regar<strong>di</strong>ng<br />

the Roman colony are visible.<br />

Well-preserved portions can also<br />

be seen under Torre Donati.<br />

The walls continued between Via<br />

Bonazzi and Via del Pozzo, but<br />

they are no longer visible.<br />

Procee<strong>di</strong>ng along Viale In<strong>di</strong>pendenza,<br />

we come to the second<br />

monumental gate, Porta Marzia,<br />

which Antonio Sangallo incorporated<br />

into a bastion of the Rocca<br />

Paolina fortress in 1540 (7).


The upper portion of the gate,<br />

which would have been destroyed<br />

by the work to construct<br />

the fortress, was <strong>di</strong>smantled and<br />

reassembled on the façade of the<br />

bastion. The original position of<br />

the gate, set back by four metres,<br />

is documented by the remains of<br />

the jambs inside the fortress.<br />

Made of travertine like the rest<br />

of the walls, it now has a round<br />

arch composed of an order of<br />

voussoirs, and it is accentuated<br />

by a projecting cornice. Above it<br />

is a balustrade with four small<br />

pilasters in an Italo-Corinthian<br />

style, with five statues jutting<br />

from it: they have been interpreted<br />

as Jupiter between the<br />

Dioscuri (7a), i.e. Castor and<br />

Pollux, and their respective<br />

horses at the ends.<br />

7a<br />

The decoration is set between two<br />

tall Italo-Corinthian pilasters<br />

that start from the base of the arch<br />

and support the upper cornice,<br />

which bears the inscription<br />

“COLONIA VIBIA”. This inscription,<br />

like the one in<strong>di</strong>cating “AU-<br />

GUSTA PERUSIA” at the base of<br />

the balustrade, repeats the epithets<br />

used to refer to the city, which also<br />

8<br />

appear on the Arco Etrusco.<br />

The Church of Sant’Ercolano is<br />

easy to reach from here. Inside,<br />

there is a lovely Roman marble<br />

sarcophagus decorated with lions<br />

(see Itinerary 2, p. 17). Another<br />

portion of the walls can be<br />

seen along Via <strong>di</strong> Sant’Ercolano,<br />

next to the church, but it is in<br />

rather poor con<strong>di</strong>tion, with<br />

buil<strong>di</strong>ngs from various eras constructed<br />

against it. Next to it is<br />

the Arco <strong>di</strong> Sant’Ercolano (8):<br />

only the jambs remain from the<br />

original Etruscan structure, over<br />

which a Gothic arch was built.<br />

At this point, we will go down<br />

Via Oberdan, where the remains<br />

of the walls have been preserved<br />

inside the Church of Santa<br />

Maria della Misericor<strong>di</strong>a (annexed<br />

to the former hospital,<br />

which was built <strong>di</strong>rectly against<br />

the city walls) and in the rooms<br />

under it at No. 52.<br />

Inside No. 28 of Via Oberdan,<br />

there is a well-preserved portion<br />

with perfectly straight rows.<br />

The walls originally followed the<br />

13


9<br />

western edge of Piazza Matteotti,<br />

along the side where the Post Office<br />

is now located. The square<br />

was originally known as Piazza<br />

del Sopramuro (9) – sopramuro<br />

means “above the walls” – to in<strong>di</strong>cate<br />

its position against the me<strong>di</strong>aeval<br />

walls that enclosed it. The<br />

old walls continued along Via<br />

Cartolari and Via della Viola,<br />

and certain portions are visible<br />

at No. 26 and No. 30 of Via Alessi,<br />

and on Via della Pazienza.<br />

Along Via Sdrucciola, a corner of<br />

the walls opens <strong>di</strong>agonally into<br />

the gate of Via Bontempi, known<br />

as the Arco dei Gigli (10).<br />

10<br />

The arch, which is well preserved<br />

up to a certain height,<br />

was mo<strong>di</strong>fied during the Middle<br />

Ages by the Gothic arch, to which<br />

lilies – gigli in Italian, hence the<br />

name – were added in honour of<br />

11<br />

the coat of arms of the Farnese<br />

pope, Paul III.<br />

From here, we can return to the Arco<br />

<strong>di</strong> Augusto, going up towards<br />

Porta Sole and then down the lovely<br />

stairs of Via delle Prome (11).<br />

The stairs lead to the slope of Via<br />

Bartolo, at the end of which we can<br />

admire the last portion of the walls,<br />

adjacent to the gate. As an alternative,<br />

we can take Via del Roscetto to<br />

Via Pinturicchio and return to Piazza<br />

Fortebraccio from there.


The city of suspended doors<br />

Paolo Braconi<br />

When an ancient city is perpetuated over the centuries, the signs of various<br />

eras normally become stratified and the ground level rises. Thus, by excavating<br />

one can find the vestiges of the “cities” that once existed. Instead, in <strong>Perugia</strong>’s<br />

case, a closer look reveals that the me<strong>di</strong>aeval levels are often beneath the<br />

older ones.<br />

It is important to note that the original layout of the rise on which <strong>Perugia</strong> was<br />

built was <strong>di</strong>vided into two hills, Colle del Sole (to the north) and Colle Landone<br />

(to the south), which were separated by a valley. Consequently, in ad<strong>di</strong>tion to<br />

the extensive fortification and terracing work represented by the city walls,<br />

there must have been other preparatory work that regulated the <strong>di</strong>stribution<br />

of urban space into stepped terraces and access ramps. However, the important<br />

works undertaken by the free commune to restructure the urban layout significantly<br />

altered both the original lay of the land and its ancient modelling. One<br />

of the most evident examples is in the heart<br />

of the city, where the me<strong>di</strong>aeval Platea<br />

Magna overlaid part of the ancient forum.<br />

Here, under the “Logge <strong>di</strong> Braccio”, the foundation<br />

of the bell tower of the older cathedral<br />

(12.1) reused ancient materials (and perhaps<br />

even the foundations), and it clearly<br />

shows that before the thirteenth century, the<br />

level of the square essentially coincided with<br />

the current flooring of the cathedral. Proof<br />

that the ancient level was higher is also provided<br />

by the doors, now blocked off, that are<br />

“suspended” at a height of about two metres<br />

12.1<br />

over No. 1 and No. 3 on Via della Gabbia<br />

(12.2). On the same street, attentive observers<br />

will also note that the foot of the tower<br />

of Madonna Dialdana, incorporated into<br />

Palazzo dei Priori, now shows bared foundations<br />

and openings that have clearly been<br />

lowered: an evident sign that they were designed<br />

in relation to an external level that<br />

was higher than the one from the late thirteenth<br />

century still used today.<br />

In short, it can be assumed that the ancient<br />

forum occupied an enormous terrace, part<br />

of which coincided with the foundation of<br />

the cathedral and originally extended far<br />

beyond towards the south. At the northwest<br />

corner of the forum terrace – and this was 12.2<br />

15


<strong>di</strong>scovered through the excavation<br />

work done by the ArchaeologicalSuperintendence<br />

– there must have<br />

been equally imposing substructions<br />

to the south, overlooking<br />

the valley between<br />

Colle del Sole and Colle Landone,<br />

and now buried under<br />

Corso Vannucci. Along the<br />

north-south road towards 12.3<br />

the Arco <strong>di</strong> Augusto, there is<br />

another example of the “excavation”<br />

of the ancient city on Via Ulisse Rocchi. Here, other openings that are<br />

now “suspended” and the re-clad<strong>di</strong>ng of the foundations of several me<strong>di</strong>aeval<br />

buil<strong>di</strong>ngs in<strong>di</strong>cate that the ancient ground levels were lowered dramatically.<br />

Final proof of this constant and intense “lowering” activity can be found in the<br />

city’s most important monument: the Arco Etrusco. Here, close examination<br />

clearly reveals that the level of the ancient “threshold” was more than 2 meters<br />

higher than the current one (12.3-4).<br />

The widespread “erosion” of the ancient levels inside the city corresponded to<br />

the creation of new levels, for which the material yielded by this “erosion<br />

process” must have been used. In ad<strong>di</strong>tion to being used to fill the valley between<br />

the two hills, as noted above, the <strong>di</strong>smantled foundation of the ancient<br />

forum was indubitably used to fill the square of Sopramuro, the plaza that the<br />

powerful me<strong>di</strong>aeval commune decided to juxtapose with the Etruscan walls.<br />

Indeed, it would be <strong>di</strong>fficult to separate these two events that, under the guidance<br />

of Fra Bevignate, ra<strong>di</strong>cally changed the city’s appearance. Moreover, this<br />

preparatory work also made it possible to lower the installation level of the new<br />

fountain in the square to a notable extent, thereby favouring (or permitting?)<br />

the “exhibition” of the long-awaited aqueduct.<br />

12.4


II - <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

Urban archaeology<br />

In ad<strong>di</strong>tion to the walls, various<br />

other parts of <strong>Perugia</strong> likewise<br />

show the remains of the Etrus -<br />

can and Roman city. To view<br />

them we will essentially move<br />

from north to south.<br />

The Pozzo Etrusco or Pozzo Sorbello<br />

(13), a well located inside<br />

Palazzo Ranieri <strong>di</strong> Sorbello in<br />

Piazza Dante, is coeval with the<br />

city walls, and it too was built<br />

using travertine. It is about 4<br />

metres below the current street<br />

level and was dug in what is referred<br />

to as tassello mandorlato,<br />

a conglomerate soil typical of<br />

the city. The well is supplied by<br />

spring water. This structure is<br />

unique, not only in its monumentality<br />

but also its inventive<br />

dual function as a well and cistern.<br />

It is about 35 metres deep,<br />

with a <strong>di</strong>ameter of 5.6 metres<br />

across the top of the well hole.<br />

The well hole is lined with 17<br />

rows of travertine blocks up to a<br />

depth of about 5.3 metres, and it<br />

narrows to a <strong>di</strong>ameter of about 3<br />

metres towards the bottom.<br />

The roofing system is notable: it<br />

13<br />

13<br />

is composed of two imposing<br />

trusses, each of which composed<br />

of five large travertine blocks<br />

(two horizontal ones, two transversal<br />

ones and keystone),<br />

which served as a support base<br />

for the flooring slabs on which<br />

the square well-curb was set. The<br />

well-curb enclosed the opening<br />

from which water was drawn.<br />

The well has a capacity of up to<br />

424,000 litres and can be considered<br />

the main water tank of the<br />

ancient city. There were other<br />

wells and cisterns inside the ancient<br />

city (like the one that closely<br />

resembles the Sorbello well, located<br />

on Via Caporali and incorporated<br />

into a Roman house<br />

after the Etruscan era), and<br />

they were used until the first<br />

public aqueduct was built in the<br />

thirteenth century.<br />

From Piazza Piccinino, our itinerary<br />

continues to Piazza IV Novembre,<br />

where we can visit the<br />

Chapter Museum of the Cathedral<br />

of San Lorenzo (there is an<br />

admission charge). In the underground<br />

area of the museum,<br />

recent excavations have uncovered<br />

Etruscan walls (14), inclu<strong>di</strong>ng<br />

part of what was probably<br />

a sacred buil<strong>di</strong>ng.<br />

17


14<br />

Nearby, a massive portion of the<br />

forum substruction walls was<br />

<strong>di</strong>scovered inside the buil<strong>di</strong>ngs<br />

at No. 12 of Via delle Cantine. It<br />

is set at a right angle to the one<br />

that has long been visible on Via<br />

Maestà delle Volte (Nos. 6 and<br />

10). The itinerary then continues<br />

to the archaeological area<br />

of Piazza Cavallotti (15), which<br />

marks a fascinating fragment<br />

in the history of <strong>Perugia</strong>’s urban<br />

layout. This area is visible under<br />

the square. Following<br />

repaving work in 1984, structures<br />

pertaining to various construction<br />

phases were <strong>di</strong>scovered<br />

here. The intersection of<br />

two road segments, paved with<br />

large blocks of white limestone<br />

and bearing traces of the ruts<br />

created by carriages, dates back<br />

to the Roman era or perhaps<br />

even earlier. The remains of a<br />

monumental fountain with a<br />

semicircular plan can be seen<br />

next to the road. Originally clad<br />

in marble, it was later refinished<br />

with a mosaic decoration<br />

in pink tesserae. The pipelines<br />

connected to it have also been<br />

preserved.<br />

From Piazza Cavallotti, our itinerary<br />

will turn down Via Baldeschi<br />

and Via Appia to skirt the<br />

pedestrian route of the old aque-<br />

16<br />

duct to Via Pascoli, where the Department<br />

of Biological Science is<br />

located. Inside this buil<strong>di</strong>ng is<br />

the Roman mosaic of Santa Elisa -<br />

betta (16), named after the<br />

church – later demolished – that<br />

was erected over the remains of<br />

public baths dating back to the<br />

Imperial Age. The mosaic, created<br />

using black and white tesserae,<br />

portrays a scene with Orpheus:<br />

the mythical Greek singer,<br />

seated on a boulder, is playing<br />

the cithara, while forty animals<br />

<strong>di</strong>vided into two groups ar rang ed<br />

in parallel lines come forward,<br />

attracted by the music. The mosaic,<br />

which was part of a vast<br />

complex of public baths, seems to<br />

date back to the second century<br />

AD. It was probably reused during<br />

the Christian era, as demonstrated<br />

by the remains of an apse


17<br />

and the signs of two crosses in the<br />

floor.<br />

From Via Pascoli, we will turn<br />

left to go up to Piazza <strong>di</strong> San<br />

Fran cesco al Prato (which can also<br />

be reached from Via dei Priori)<br />

and the Oratory of San Bernar<strong>di</strong>no<br />

(fifteenth century). Inside is<br />

the so-called Roman sarcophagus<br />

of “Blessed Giles” (17), reused as<br />

an altar. The sarcophagus was<br />

found a short <strong>di</strong>stance away, outside<br />

the city walls A striking example<br />

of early Christian art, it<br />

was probably crafted in Rome in<br />

360 AD. Scenes from the Old Testament<br />

(Jonah and Noah’s Ark)<br />

are sculpted on the lid between<br />

two profiled heads. There are seven<br />

niches along the front, each of<br />

which holds a figure: the central<br />

one is Christ enthroned; to the left<br />

is a female figure, probably symbolising<br />

the Church; the figures<br />

on the sides are dressed with a tunic<br />

and mantle (pallium), and<br />

may portray the community of<br />

saints.<br />

Our itinerary then returns up<br />

Via dei Priori to Corso Vannucci,<br />

Via Oberdan and then Via Sant’Ercolano.<br />

Another important Roman sarcophagus<br />

is preserved inside the<br />

Church of Sant’Ercolano (currently<br />

closed for renovation),<br />

where it has been used as the base<br />

for the main altar. The sarcophagus<br />

holds the relics of St. Herculanus,<br />

the patron saint of <strong>Perugia</strong>.<br />

The oval marble sarcophagus<br />

presents strigil ornamentation<br />

(slightly curved fluting in the<br />

shape of a strigil, the curved implement<br />

that ancient athletes<br />

used for scraping their skin when<br />

bathing). On the sides, there are<br />

hunting scenes (two lions savaging<br />

a fawn and a horse) and<br />

two human figures. This type of<br />

sarcophagus, from the area of the<br />

Church of Sant’Orfeto, is quite<br />

rare in the <strong>Perugia</strong> environs.<br />

This specimen dates back to the<br />

third century AD.<br />

Our itinerary continues down<br />

towards Corso Cavour and Via<br />

Po<strong>di</strong>ani, for a brief stop at the<br />

19


Museum of Palazzo Della Penna,<br />

where the only extant ruins of<br />

the Roman amphitheatre (18)<br />

are visible on the first floor below<br />

ground level.<br />

From here, our itinerary continues<br />

down Corso Cavour towards<br />

San Pietro, going past the Archaeological<br />

Museum (see p. 19). The<br />

Basilica of San Pietro (19), which<br />

is of extraor<strong>di</strong>nary historic and<br />

artistic interest, has important<br />

evidence of the prece<strong>di</strong>ng Roman<br />

and early Christian phases. The<br />

remains of a circular monument<br />

made of travertine blocks can be<br />

seen near the entrance. It is the<br />

nucleus of a Roman mausoleum<br />

that was subsequently used as the<br />

base for the bell tower. The interior<br />

is <strong>di</strong>vided into a nave and two<br />

aisles by 18 columns made of<br />

marble and granite, and dating<br />

back to the Roman era; all the capitals<br />

except the last pair are Ionic.<br />

The early me<strong>di</strong>aeval crypt (19.a)<br />

under the apse is accessible from<br />

the interior. Discovered in 1979,<br />

the circular crypt has an intriguing<br />

ambulacrum and plastered<br />

walls painted with geometric and<br />

figurative motifs.<br />

19.a<br />

20<br />

The early Christian church of Sant’Angelo<br />

(20), built towards the<br />

end of the fifth century AD, is located<br />

on the other side of the city, to<br />

the north, at the end of Corso<br />

Garibal<strong>di</strong>. This uncommon e<strong>di</strong>fice<br />

with a circular plan was originally<br />

located along the important<br />

“royal road” that extended from<br />

the Arco Etrusco. The drum that<br />

sustains the camp or tent ceiling of<br />

the church is set on 16 marble<br />

columns with Corinthian capitals<br />

that were recovered from Roman<br />

monuments. A Roman cippus de<strong>di</strong>cated<br />

to Emperor Marcus Aurelius<br />

is also preserved in the church.


The National Archaeological<br />

Museum of Umbria<br />

The museum’s current setup<br />

is temporary. Since<br />

1948, the museum has been<br />

based in the former convent<br />

of San Domenico (21.1).<br />

21.1<br />

Stone materials from the<br />

Etruscan-Roman section,<br />

which is on the upper floor, are exhibited in the entry courtyard under the portico.<br />

The room on the ground floor boasts exquisite Roman marble works, such<br />

as the one with the myth of Meleager and the well-curb depicting the battle between<br />

the Greeks and the Amazons – both of which are from Farfa Sabina –<br />

as well as the recently restored sarcophagus with a Dionysian scene sculpted<br />

in high relief and framed between two lion protomes.<br />

The portico also leads to the basement exhibition halls. Visitors can also see<br />

the tomb of the Cai Cutu (21.2), <strong>di</strong>scovered by chance at the Monteluce necropolis<br />

in 1983 and exhibited at the museum since 2000. The tomb has been reconstructed<br />

here and includes the tomb’s funerary accoutrements. Set<br />

against the back wall of the central cell is a sandstone sarcophagus containing<br />

the remains of the head of the family. Along the sides, there are 50 travertine<br />

urns with inscriptions about the Cai Cutu, a family of slave origins from<br />

Orvieto. The Etruscan gens name Cai Cutu was subsequently simplified to<br />

Cutu and, as can be seen on the later urns, it was finally Latinized to Cutius.<br />

The tomb was used uninterruptedly from the third to the first century BC.<br />

<strong>di</strong>segno <strong>di</strong> C. Ponzi<br />

21.2<br />

21


Travertine urns from <strong>Perugia</strong>’s necropolises are grouped in the upper loggia<br />

around the cloister. These urns are characteristic of the mass production<br />

by Etruscan craftsmen in <strong>Perugia</strong> during the Hellenistic Age (21.3).<br />

21.3<br />

On the north side is the entrance to the exhibition of repoussé bronze plates<br />

(21.4) and cast bronze figurines from Castel San Mariano (Municipality of<br />

Corciano). These items were part of the finishing and ornamentation of<br />

three parade chariots, datable between 570 and 520 BC, and they are considered<br />

among the most significant Archaic Etruscan bronze works. The<br />

chariots come from a princely tomb with a rich array of other precious<br />

items that are now in various European museums.<br />

21.4


21.5<br />

From the loggia, the gallery illuminated<br />

by the smaller courtyard<br />

has showcases with accoutrements<br />

from Etruscan tombs,<br />

exhibited based on the theme of<br />

cosmetics and ornamentation<br />

in the ancient world (such as the<br />

silver ointment jars from Civi -<br />

tella d’Arna) (21.5).<br />

At the end of the gallery, the seventeenth-century<br />

wing houses the<br />

oldest materials, such as the sandstone<br />

funerary stele from Mount<br />

Gualandro (late seventh-early<br />

21.7<br />

sixth century BC) (21.6) portraying<br />

two warriors facing each other,<br />

as well as the Speran<strong>di</strong>o sarcophagus<br />

(21.7). This is a notable<br />

item made of soft stone and it was<br />

produced in the Chiusi area. It<br />

dates back to around 510-500 BC,<br />

and the front portrays a long procession<br />

that has been given various<br />

interpretations, whereas the<br />

short er sides depict banquet scenes.<br />

21.5<br />

23


The room also houses other important<br />

bases and cippi from the<br />

Archaic Etruscan period. The funerary<br />

accoutrements and small<br />

urns from the Etruscan necropolises<br />

of Frontone, Monteluce and<br />

the area around the <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

cemetery are fascinating, notably<br />

the ones from the hypogeum of the<br />

Satna family at Ponticello <strong>di</strong><br />

Campo that, following recent<br />

restoration work, present wellpreserved<br />

polychrome decorations<br />

(21.8).<br />

The <strong>Perugia</strong> cippus (21.9) is extremely<br />

important for epigraphic<br />

documentation: its lengthy<br />

engraved text regulates the legal<br />

property relations between two<br />

Etruscan families, the Afuna of<br />

Chiusi and the Velthina of <strong>Perugia</strong>.<br />

21.9<br />

21.8<br />

An educational itinerary introduces<br />

the Prehistoric Section,<br />

composed of materials from the<br />

vast Bellucci Collection (21.10,<br />

11), arranged both by type and<br />

topography. These Palaeolithic<br />

and Neolithic artefacts from<br />

Umbria, Tuscany, the Marches<br />

and Abruzzo were collected by<br />

<strong>Perugia</strong> chemist, palaeoethnologist<br />

and ethnographer Giuseppe<br />

Bellucci (1844-1921).<br />

21.10<br />

21.11


21.12<br />

This exhibit is followed by the<br />

Umberto Calzoni Collection in<br />

the Salone dei Bronzi (21.12),<br />

which houses materials of various<br />

provenances spanning the<br />

Palaeolithic to the Iron Age. The<br />

materials from Cetona, the<br />

bronze items from <strong>Perugia</strong> and<br />

Central Italy, and the gold <strong>di</strong>scs<br />

from Gualdo Ta<strong>di</strong>no are particularly<br />

interesting.<br />

Since 2000, another section of the<br />

Bellucci Collection has also been<br />

open to visitors. This section <strong>di</strong>splays<br />

part of the rich collection of<br />

amulets and magic-religious instruments<br />

(21.13), comprising<br />

over 1700 objects, from the Central-Southern<br />

Italy, classified by<br />

type from the prehistoric era<br />

through the twentieth century.<br />

21.13 21.14<br />

Specimens from the Guardabassi<br />

Collection (21.14) are also <strong>di</strong>splayed,<br />

chiefly Roman artefacts<br />

that were collected over the years<br />

by <strong>Perugia</strong> painter and scholar<br />

Mariano Guardabassi (1823-80),<br />

who wrote the famous In<strong>di</strong>ce-<br />

Guida dei monumenti perugini<br />

[“Index and Guide to the Monuments<br />

of <strong>Perugia</strong>”]. Noteworthy<br />

artefacts include several Roman<br />

signet rings, Roman acorn-missiles,<br />

and an exquisite mirrored<br />

casket in gilded bronze from the<br />

Hellenistic Age.<br />

25


III - The Etruscan necropolises<br />

and the territory<br />

The necropolises represent important<br />

archaeological evidence<br />

in the <strong>Perugia</strong> area, and they<br />

are an extraor<strong>di</strong>nary source of<br />

knowledge about the city’s artistic<br />

culture and social order.<br />

They were located outside the<br />

city walls, on the sides of the<br />

main roads exiting the city<br />

gates, and thus they pertained to<br />

both the city and its suburbs.<br />

There are numerous necropolises,<br />

composed of underground<br />

chamber or trench burials –<br />

some of which date as far back<br />

as the sixth century BC – but the<br />

ones open to visitors are mainly<br />

the later tombs.<br />

To reach the Speran<strong>di</strong>o necropolis<br />

(22), we can set out from the<br />

Arco Etrusco and cross Corso<br />

Garibal<strong>di</strong> and Via dello Speran<strong>di</strong>o.<br />

This necropolis is composed<br />

mainly of chamber tombs,<br />

though there are also chest and<br />

trench tombs, and it was used<br />

uninterruptedly from the sixth<br />

to the second century BC.<br />

Though the practice of interment<br />

predominated, there is also<br />

evidence of cremation, as<br />

demonstrated by the numerous<br />

small travertine urns. Funerary<br />

cippi and pottery, bronze and<br />

iron materials have also been<br />

found at the necropolis and are<br />

now at museums in <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

and Florence, and at the British<br />

Museum in London. One of the<br />

more recent chamber tombs<br />

(late fourth-third century BC)<br />

can also be visited (see the Gen-<br />

22<br />

eral Information page). Recently<br />

restored, it still has the large<br />

stone slab that sealed the entrance.<br />

Inside is a simple sandstone<br />

sarcophagus pertaining to<br />

the wealthy owner of gold jewellery<br />

(now at the Florence museum),<br />

inclu<strong>di</strong>ng a priceless <strong>di</strong>adem,<br />

hence the name “Tomb of<br />

the Princess”.<br />

To get from the northern necropolises<br />

to the western ones at<br />

Madonna Alta and Ferro <strong>di</strong> Ca -<br />

vallo, head west out of the city.<br />

The necropolises can be reached<br />

by car or bus.<br />

The Madonna Alta necropolis<br />

was <strong>di</strong>scovered accidentally<br />

near Centova during work to<br />

build the E45 state road, and it<br />

can be reached from Via Cortonese<br />

or from the link to the<br />

E45. After crossing a viaduct, we<br />

come to a small square, above<br />

which – at the top of a hill –<br />

there are six chamber tombs,<br />

carved from the terrain. Their<br />

walls and ceilings are clad with<br />

blocks of travertine. Only one of


these tombs was found intact. It<br />

has a double-pitched roof and<br />

contained 16 travertine ciner -<br />

ary urns with inscriptions in<strong>di</strong>cating<br />

that they pertained to the<br />

Alfa family. The necropolis dates<br />

back to the second-first century<br />

BC.<br />

Hypogeum of San Manno<br />

The tomb was located along the<br />

important road that led to Lake<br />

Trasimeno and Chiusi, signal -<br />

led by the presence of various<br />

necropolises, about 5 kilometres<br />

from <strong>Perugia</strong> in the town of Ferro<br />

<strong>di</strong> Cavallo.<br />

It can currently be seen as the<br />

crypt of the Chapel of San Manno<br />

(23), inside the architectural<br />

complex owned by the Sovereign<br />

Military Order of Malta.<br />

23<br />

The church is decorated with<br />

fourteenth- and sixteenth-century<br />

frescoes. A staircase that was<br />

subsequently opened through<br />

the back wall leads to a tomb<br />

that is covered entirely with<br />

large travertine blocks arranged<br />

in even rows. The vast rectangular<br />

chamber (7.70 x 4.05 x 3.65<br />

m), with two small niches, is<br />

covered by a striking barrel<br />

vault. The inscription arranged<br />

in three lines on the wall to the<br />

left of the current entrance is<br />

particularly significant. It is<br />

one of the longest extant Etrus -<br />

can funerary texts (5 m), and it<br />

makes it possible to attribute the<br />

tomb to the Etruscan Precu family;<br />

the text names the father, the<br />

mother and two siblings, Aule<br />

and Larth. The hypogeum is the<br />

most important architectural<br />

example of the types constructed<br />

with barrel vaults, which were<br />

widespread in the area. It has<br />

been dated to the third-second<br />

century BC and is comparable<br />

to the tomb at Colle <strong>di</strong> Bettona.<br />

Restoration work is currently<br />

underway on it (see the General<br />

Information page).<br />

As we leave <strong>Perugia</strong> and head<br />

southwest along the current<br />

Pievaiola state road, near the<br />

town of Castel del Piano we<br />

come to the necropolis of Strozzacapponi<br />

(Municipality of Corciano)<br />

(24). The tombs, which<br />

were uncovered in stages starting<br />

in the nineteenth century<br />

24<br />

27


during agricultural and construction<br />

work, are part of an<br />

extensive necropolis that was<br />

used between the second and<br />

first century BC. This was the<br />

historic phase of the transition<br />

from the Etruscan civilization<br />

to the Roman one, as confirmed<br />

by the linguistic changes that<br />

can be noted on the urn inscriptions:<br />

the older ones are in E -<br />

trus can and the later ones in<br />

Latin. Their location near the<br />

quarries of Santa Sabina suggests<br />

the proximity of a settlement<br />

of travertine workers. This<br />

theory is also backed by the<br />

me<strong>di</strong>um-low social status of the<br />

deceased. The central part is<br />

composed of chamber tombs,<br />

carved into the travertine bed,<br />

with platforms along the side to<br />

hold the funerary accoutrements.<br />

A vestibule led to a<br />

door closed off with a travertine<br />

slab. The ceilings, mainly double-pitched,<br />

have given way in<br />

many cases. The part that is currently<br />

open to visitors is located<br />

under a shop buil<strong>di</strong>ng (see the<br />

General Information page).<br />

At this point, we can continue to<br />

Corciano, a delightful little me<strong>di</strong>aeval<br />

town. In the town hall,<br />

visitors can see the palaeontological<br />

collection (skeletons of<br />

animals from the Middle Lower<br />

Pleistocene and fossil fragments),<br />

and the archaeological<br />

collection, with fin<strong>di</strong>ngs from<br />

the area that include two large<br />

Villanovan vases, cinerary urns<br />

from the Etruscan-Roman era,<br />

funerary cippi and bases (25).<br />

Among these, the travertine one<br />

with an Etruscan votive inscription<br />

honouring an infernal deity,<br />

from Taverne <strong>di</strong> Corciano, is<br />

particularly important (26).<br />

26<br />

25<br />

The two travertine lions at the<br />

foot of the stairs lea<strong>di</strong>ng to Piazza<br />

dei Caduti are also noteworthy.<br />

They can probably be attributed<br />

to a Roman funerary monument<br />

datable between the first<br />

century BC and the first century<br />

AD (27).<br />

27


The Palazzone necropolis (named<br />

after the villa of Count Baglioni,<br />

who owned the estate on which the<br />

necropolis was found) is located<br />

outside <strong>Perugia</strong> to the southeast,<br />

on the road to Assisi along the Piscille-Ponte<br />

San Giovanni portion.<br />

It is about 7 kilometres from the<br />

centre of <strong>Perugia</strong>.<br />

It has nearly 200 chamber tombs<br />

cut into the hillside over the<br />

Tiber. With the exception of five<br />

attributable to the sixth-fifth<br />

century BC, the tombs date back<br />

to the Hellenistic Age. Most have<br />

simple chambers or cells with<br />

an entrance corridor, and they<br />

are closed off by a travertine<br />

slab. They are attributable to<br />

family groups belonging to the<br />

late Etruscan aristocracy, as<br />

can be deduced from the accoutrements<br />

and the inscriptions<br />

on the cinerary urns (28), which<br />

are preserved in the buil<strong>di</strong>ng at<br />

the entrance to the most famous<br />

28<br />

tomb at this necropolis, the Hypogeum<br />

of the Volumni.<br />

From Ponte San Giovanni, we<br />

can proceed to Torgiano, where<br />

the museums of the Lungarotti<br />

foundation also house important<br />

archaeological collections.<br />

At the village of Vecchio <strong>di</strong> Miralduolo<br />

near Torgiano, there is an<br />

important Roman chamber tomb<br />

that was <strong>di</strong>scovered by chance in<br />

1973. Extensively damaged, it has<br />

now been restored and protected.<br />

The tomb has a rectangular plan<br />

and was constructed in cement.<br />

Inside there is a barrel vault that<br />

was plastered and painted, and a<br />

platform along the back wall held<br />

the remains of the deceased. The<br />

jambs and architraves of the entrance,<br />

sealed by a travertine<br />

slab, are likewise made of travertine,<br />

like the tombs with barrel<br />

29<br />

vaults from the Hellenistic Age.<br />

The tomb was violated when it<br />

was <strong>di</strong>scovered, and as a result<br />

there is no information about the<br />

burial depositions or the number<br />

of accoutrements, of which there<br />

remain only a few objects belonging<br />

to a woman (gemstones and<br />

toilet articles) (29). The tomb,<br />

which is not open to the general<br />

public, has been dated to the first<br />

century AD.<br />

From Torgiano, we can go to<br />

Deruta, where archaeological<br />

collections are <strong>di</strong>splayed at the<br />

Regional Ceramics Museum.<br />

29


Hypogeum of the Volumni (30.1)<br />

A steep dromos (entrance corridor)<br />

leads to the door, whose<br />

jambs, architrave and closing<br />

slab are made of travertine.<br />

There is an Etruscan inscription<br />

on the right jamb, commemorating<br />

the foundation of<br />

the tomb by Arunte and Lars<br />

Volumnio. This complex underground<br />

architectural space reproduced<br />

the layout of a Roman-<br />

Italic house, with a central atrium,<br />

tablinum (correspon<strong>di</strong>ng to<br />

the chamber at the far end), and<br />

two small cells on each of the two<br />

sides (30.2). A perpen<strong>di</strong>cular<br />

room in front of the tablinum<br />

leads to two small rooms with<br />

platforms.<br />

The ceilings are decorated to<br />

imitate wooden beams and coffered<br />

ornamentation. The central<br />

panel of the ceiling of the<br />

chamber at the far end is deco-<br />

30.2<br />

30.1<br />

rated with a Medusa’s head. The<br />

relief work on the fronton of the<br />

entrance to the atrium reproduces<br />

a shield with a Gorgon’s<br />

head between two dolphins.<br />

Across from this, on the sides of<br />

the entrance to the tablinum,<br />

are the remains of what appear<br />

to be protomes of snakes with an<br />

apotropaic meaning. On the<br />

fronton over this is a shield with


30.3<br />

a Gorgon’s head between<br />

swords, surmounted by doves<br />

and two male protomes. The<br />

platforms of the chamber at the<br />

far end hold seven cinerary<br />

urns, the most notable of which<br />

is the one in the middle of the<br />

back wall; accor<strong>di</strong>ng to the inscription,<br />

it can be attributed to<br />

the head of the family, Arunte<br />

Volumnio, son of Aule (30.3). It<br />

is composed of a base with the<br />

gate of Hades painted in the<br />

middle, flanked by two Lasas, or<br />

infernal deities, in relief. Set on<br />

this is an urn in the shape of a<br />

kline (banqueting couch) with<br />

the deceased in a semi-recumbent<br />

position. One of the urns<br />

portraying a seated female figure<br />

pertains to Velia Volumnia<br />

(30.4), Arunte’s daughter. The<br />

only marble urn, in the shape of<br />

a small temple, pertains to<br />

Aulo’s son Publius Volumnius,<br />

and it has a Latin epigraph that<br />

can be dated to the early Imperial<br />

Age. The hypogeum is datable<br />

between the second half of<br />

the third century BC and the<br />

first century AD.<br />

30.4<br />

Visitors are urged to follow the<br />

path through the necropolis,<br />

marked by educational signs, to<br />

the Palazzone Antiquarium,<br />

which hosts temporary themebased<br />

exhibits of archaeological<br />

fin<strong>di</strong>ngs.<br />

31


Torgiano. Wine Museum (31.1)<br />

31.1<br />

The Wine Museum (in Palazzo Graziani Baglioni) is devoted to the production<br />

and spread of viticulture and wine around the Me<strong>di</strong>terranean, from antiquity<br />

through modern times.<br />

Room I <strong>di</strong>splays Cycla<strong>di</strong>c (31.2), Anatolian, Greek, Italiote,<br />

Etruscan and Roman wine receptacles. There are<br />

noteworthy Proto-Corinthian and Attic cups (31.1),<br />

bronzes, Bucchero ware, glassware and an interesting<br />

type of Greek and Roman amphorae, used to transport<br />

wine on ships (31.3).<br />

31.2<br />

Room IX has material<br />

from the Torgiano area,<br />

with the remains of cisterns,<br />

villae rusticae and<br />

Etruscan-Roman necropolises.<br />

31.3<br />

Foto Museo del Vino - Fondazione Lungarotti, Torgiano


Foto Museo dell'Olivo e dell'Olio - Fondazione Lungarotti, Torgiano<br />

Torgiano. Olive and<br />

Oil Museum<br />

The Olive and Oil Museum is<br />

de<strong>di</strong>cated to the botanical characteristics<br />

of the olive tree, various<br />

cultivation techniques from<br />

antiquity through today, and the<br />

spread of olive-growing around<br />

the Me<strong>di</strong>terranean.<br />

32<br />

In particular, Room V focuses on<br />

the sacred nature of the olive<br />

tree, the gift of the goddess<br />

Athena. Artefacts include an extraor<strong>di</strong>nary<br />

Daedalic oil lamp<br />

(620-610 BC) made of Parian<br />

marble (32), an Attic red-figure<br />

alàbastron (ointment vase) by<br />

the Foundry Painter (490-480<br />

BC), and an Apulian red-figure<br />

skyphos (deep cup). Showcase 1<br />

of Room VII holds an extraor<strong>di</strong>nary<br />

collection of oil lamps from<br />

the pre-Roman era to the early<br />

Middle Ages.<br />

Deruta.<br />

Regional Ceramics Museum<br />

Milziade Magnini Collection<br />

It comprises approximately<br />

1000 pieces from various regions,<br />

particularly Apulia and<br />

Lucania, inclu<strong>di</strong>ng a noteworthy<br />

series of Apulian pottery<br />

from the fourth century BC.<br />

33.1<br />

33.2<br />

Some of the most noteworthy<br />

items are a trozzella, a unique<br />

form of Messapian pottery<br />

(33.1), and a figured bellshaped<br />

krater (33.2).<br />

33<br />

© Fototeca del Servizio Musei e Beni Culturali della Regione dell’Umbria


The Faggeto Tomb<br />

Exiting the north<br />

part of the city and<br />

going through Elce,<br />

San Marco and<br />

Cenerente, we come<br />

to Colle Umberto,<br />

which is about 30<br />

minutes from the<br />

centre of <strong>Perugia</strong> by<br />

car or bus.<br />

From here, after taking<br />

the provincial<br />

road for Umbertide<br />

and then an unmarked<br />

route up the<br />

slopes of Mount<br />

Tezio, it is a 30- or<br />

40-minute walk to<br />

the summit of Cresta<br />

34<br />

della Fornace (607<br />

metres above sea level).<br />

Just past a small clearing, there is a narrow trail. From here, it is an<br />

easy five-minute walk to the Faggeto tomb (591 metres above sea level),<br />

which is visible inside a small enclosure circled by young cypress trees. It<br />

was <strong>di</strong>scovered by chance in 1920 on an estate that is private even today, in<br />

an enchanting natural setting. There is a sweeping view from south to west,<br />

from Mount Peglia to Montarale, Mount Cetona, Castel Rigone and Preggio.<br />

A corridor flanked by two walls leads to the door (34), composed of a heavy<br />

rectangular slab of sandstone (144 x 75 x 11 cm) still set on hinges in the architrave<br />

and threshold. It is a small burial chamber with a rectangular<br />

plan, with a barrel vault and ashlars arranged in a ra<strong>di</strong>al pattern. The<br />

tomb was built using blocks of local stone, set in rather even rows. On the<br />

sides there are traces of a platform, where a travertine cinerary urn was <strong>di</strong>scovered<br />

– based on the inscription, it can be attributed to Arnth Cairnina –<br />

and a few other accoutrements. The tomb is datable to the second half of the<br />

second century BC.<br />

Other trails, inclu<strong>di</strong>ng one from the town of San Giovanni del Pantano, also<br />

lead to the site.<br />

Interested hikers are urged to obtain Kompass Tourist Map n. 663 “<strong>Perugia</strong>-<br />

Deruta” (scale 1:5000) or visit the site www.montideltezio.it, which provides<br />

telephone numbers for ad<strong>di</strong>tional visiting information available from “Associazione<br />

Socioculturale Monti del Tezio”.


Tourist information<br />

SERVIZIO TURISTICO TERRITORIALE ASSOCIATO<br />

(Tourist services - Communes of <strong>Perugia</strong>, Corciano,<br />

Deruta, Torgiano)<br />

Via Mazzini, 6 - 06121 <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

Tel. +39 075 5728937 - Fax +39 075 5739386<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

Sala San Severo - Palazzo dei Priori<br />

Piazza IV Novembre, 3 - 06123 <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

Tel. +39 075 5736458 - Fax +39 075 5720988<br />

Opening hours: weekdays 8:30-13:30 a.m./3:30-6:30 p.m.<br />

Holidays 9:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m.<br />

www.perugia.umbria2000.it - info@iat.perugia.it<br />

www.comune.perugia.it - iat@comune.perugia.it<br />

Out-of-town infopoints<br />

Motorway junction (Madonna Alta exit):<br />

area in front of the Centro Congressi Aldo Capitini<br />

Ponte San Giovanni:<br />

Esso service station Route E45, 69 km + 670 m<br />

Tourist guide service<br />

Guides in Umbria - <strong>Perugia</strong> Cooperative<br />

Tel. +39 075 5732933 - Fax +39 075 5727235<br />

www.guideinumbria.com<br />

info@guideinumbria.com<br />

Tourist Guide Association of Umbria - Assisi<br />

Tel. +39 075 815228<br />

Fax +39 075 815229<br />

www.assoguide.it<br />

info@assoguide.it<br />

Sistema Museo<br />

Museum info-line<br />

Guided and educational visits<br />

(information and booking)<br />

199 101 330<br />

www.sistemamuseo.it


European Union<br />

Republic of Italy<br />

<strong>Perugia</strong> Municipality Corciano Municipality Deruta Municipality Torgiano Municipality<br />

Produced with the contribution of the European Union<br />

INFORMATION AND TOURIST WELCOME OFFICES<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> <strong>Perugia</strong> (Communes of <strong>Perugia</strong>, Corciano,<br />

Deruta, Torgiano)<br />

Sala San Severo - Palazzo dei Priori<br />

Piazza IV Novembre, 3 - 06123 <strong>Perugia</strong><br />

Tel. +39 075 5736458 - 5772686<br />

Fax +39 075 5739386<br />

info@iat.perugia.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Terni (Communes of Terni, Acquasparta,<br />

Arrone, Calvi dell'Umbria, Ferentillo,<br />

Montefranco, Narni, Otricoli, Polino,<br />

San Gemini, Stroncone)<br />

Viale Cassian Bon, 2/4 - 05100 TERNI<br />

Tel. +39 0744 423047 - Fax +39 0744 427259<br />

info@iat.terni.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Amelia (Communes of Amelia, Alviano,<br />

Attigliano, Avigliano, Giove, Guardea, Lugnano<br />

in Teverina, Montecastrilli, Penna in Teverina)<br />

Via Orvieto, 1 - 05022 AMELIA<br />

Tel. +39 0744 981453 - Fax +39 0744 981566<br />

info@iat.amelia.tr.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Assisi (Communes of Assisi, Bastia<br />

Umbra, Bettona, Cannara)<br />

Piazza del <strong>Comune</strong> - 06081 ASSISI<br />

Tel. +39 075 812534 - Fax +39 075 813727<br />

info@iat.assisi.pg.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Cascia (Communes of Cascia, Cerreto<br />

<strong>di</strong> Spoleto, Monteleone <strong>di</strong> Spoleto, Norcia,<br />

Poggiodomo, Preci, Sant'Anatolia <strong>di</strong> Narco,<br />

Scheggino, Vallo <strong>di</strong> Nera)<br />

Piazza Garibal<strong>di</strong>, 1 - 06043 CASCIA<br />

Tel. +39 0743 71147 - Fax +39 0743 76630<br />

info@iat.cascia.pg.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Castiglione del Lago (Communes<br />

of Castiglione del Lago, Città della Pieve,<br />

Magione, Paciano, Panicale, Passignano<br />

sul Trasimeno, Piegaro, Tuoro sul Trasimeno)<br />

Piazza Mazzini, 10 - 06061 CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO<br />

Tel. +39 075 9652484 - 9652738<br />

Fax +39 075 9652763<br />

info@iat.castiglione-del-lago.pg.it<br />

DEL PERUGINO<br />

Region of Umbria<br />

Tourist Promotion<br />

Regional Agency<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Città <strong>di</strong> Castello (Communes of Città<br />

<strong>di</strong> Castello, Citerna, Lisciano Niccone, Monte<br />

Santa Maria Tiberina, Montone, Pietralunga,<br />

San Giustino, Umbertide)<br />

Piazza Matteotti - Logge Bufalini<br />

06012 CITTÀ DI CASTELLO<br />

Tel. +39 075 8554922 - Fax +39 075 8552100<br />

info@iat.citta-<strong>di</strong>-castello.pg.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Foligno (Communes of Foligno, Bevagna,<br />

Gualdo Cattaneo, Montefalco, Nocera Umbra,<br />

Sellano, Spello, Trevi, Valtopina)<br />

Corso Cavour, 126 - 06034 FOLIGNO<br />

Tel. +39 0742 354459 - 354165<br />

Fax +39 0742 340545<br />

info@iat.foligno.pg.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Gubbio (Communes of Gubbio,<br />

Costacciaro, Fossato <strong>di</strong> Vico, Gualdo Ta<strong>di</strong>no,<br />

Scheggia, Sigillo, Valfabbrica)<br />

Piazza Oderisi, 6 - 06024 GUBBIO<br />

Tel. +39 075 9220693 - Fax +39 075 9273409<br />

info@iat.gubbio.pg.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Orvieto (Communes of Orvieto, Allerona,<br />

Baschi, Castelgiorgio, Castel Viscardo, Fabro,<br />

Ficulle, Montecchio, Montegabbione,<br />

Monteleone <strong>di</strong> Orvieto, Parrano, Porano,<br />

San Venanzo)<br />

Piazza Duomo, 24 - 05018 ORVIETO<br />

Tel. +39 0763 341772 - Fax +39 0763 344433<br />

info@iat.orvieto.tr.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> Spoleto (Communes of Spoleto, Campello<br />

sul Clitunno, Castel Rital<strong>di</strong>, Giano dell'Umbria)<br />

Piazza della Libertà, 7 - 06049 SPOLETO<br />

Tel. +39 0743 238920 - Fax +39 0743 238941<br />

info@iat.spoleto.pg.it<br />

IAT <strong>di</strong> To<strong>di</strong> (Communes of To<strong>di</strong>, Collazzone,<br />

Fratta To<strong>di</strong>na, Marsciano, Massa Martana,<br />

Monte Castello <strong>di</strong> Vibio)<br />

Piazza del Popolo 28/29 - 06059 TODI<br />

Tel. +39 075 8945416 - 8942526<br />

Fax +39 075 8942406<br />

info@iat.to<strong>di</strong>.pg.it<br />

ORGANIZZAZIONE TURISTICA REGIONALE<br />

Agenzia <strong>di</strong> Promozione Turistica dell’Umbria (Tourist promotion agency of Umbria)<br />

via Mazzini, 21 - 06121 PERUGIA - Tel. +39 075 575951 - Fax +39 075 5736828<br />

info@apt.umbria.it - www.umbria2000.it

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