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RISE OF A CITY<br />
a photographic take on dubai
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We still remember the first time we saw Christopher Reeve don<br />
the blue and red Superman suit, and this summer the Man of<br />
Steel returns, with British actor Henry Cavill set to fill Reeve’s red<br />
boots. We look back at the behind-the-scenes shenanigans that<br />
ensured life on set was almost as eventful as life in Metropolis.<br />
Matthias Heiderich is gaining attention as one of the best young<br />
photographers in Europe, and his stunning shots of Dubai will<br />
show you the city as you have never seen it. Elsewhere, we walk<br />
down one of Toronto’s longest – and most interesting – streets. We<br />
also meet legendary architect Norman Foster, and ask him what<br />
he is doing curating an art show. And in Madrid, we discover a<br />
wonderful pastry shop that is still going strong 99 years after it<br />
was founded. If you ever needed an excuse to visit the Spanish<br />
capital, La Duquesita is it. Enjoy the issue.<br />
edItor-In-ChIef Obaid humaid Al Tayer ManagIng partner & group edItor In ChIef Ian Fairservice<br />
edItorIal dIreCtor Gina Johnson • gina@motivate.ae group edItor Mark Evans • marke@motivate.ae<br />
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senIor sales exeCutIve Rahul Shivaprakash edItorIal Consultants for eMIrates: edItor Jonathan hill<br />
arabIC edItor hatem Omar deputy edItor Andy grant websIte • emirates.<strong>com</strong> ContrIbutors Kausar<br />
Shahab, connie Tsang, caro Emerald, gemma correll, gabriella Maj, Matthew Lightner, John Reid, Tina Reid, Paddy<br />
Smith, Vicky hayward, Pablo herranz, Jay Merrick, Adam Smith, Matthias heiderich, Edward Mcgowan, Daniel huffman<br />
Cover IMage: Matthias heiderich<br />
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17<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong>
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contents / june <strong>2013</strong><br />
32<br />
A new limitededition<br />
travel<br />
book with a<br />
difference<br />
38<br />
A walk<br />
through one of<br />
Toronto’s most<br />
interesting<br />
streets<br />
44<br />
Dutch jazz<br />
singer Caro<br />
Emerald shares<br />
her top tunes<br />
46<br />
A slice of<br />
luxury in the<br />
Maldives<br />
21<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
50<br />
A tour of<br />
Dublin’a<br />
burgeoning<br />
<strong>com</strong>edy scene<br />
61<br />
A shot of<br />
Venice, the City<br />
of Light<br />
62<br />
One of<br />
Madrid’s<br />
longestrunning<br />
cafes,<br />
La Duquesita
contents / june <strong>2013</strong><br />
68<br />
The inside<br />
story of the<br />
making of<br />
Superman<br />
Front (31)<br />
Bits 32<br />
Question/Grid 34<br />
Calendar 36<br />
The Street 38<br />
Skypod 44<br />
Room 46<br />
Main (67) news (103)<br />
Superman Uncovered 68<br />
WTTC 78<br />
Norman Foster 82<br />
Dubai Photos 92<br />
22<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
92<br />
Matthias Heiderich showcases Dubai<br />
in some stunning photographs<br />
82<br />
An exclusive<br />
interview with<br />
Norman Foster<br />
Consume 49<br />
Our Man 50<br />
BLD 55<br />
Mapped 56<br />
Place 61<br />
Store 62<br />
News 105<br />
Green 108<br />
Visa Guide 110<br />
Fleet 118
CONFIDENCE IN ANY LANGUAGE.<br />
Carat Weight<br />
1.53<br />
Natural Diamond<br />
Not Synthetic<br />
Color Grade<br />
E<br />
Clarity Grade<br />
VS1<br />
Cut Grade<br />
Excellent<br />
Laser Inscription<br />
Registry Number<br />
GIA 16354621<br />
Wherever you go, a GIA report means assurance of diamond quality.<br />
Before you buy, look for confi rmation from the world’s foremost gem authority and creator of the 4Cs.<br />
Learn more at www.4cs.gia.edu<br />
THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.
contributors<br />
Vicky<br />
Hayward<br />
Vicky is a journalist<br />
and writer who<br />
lives in Madrid.<br />
Her book on<br />
Spanish monastic<br />
cooking is due to<br />
be published in<br />
2014. She managed<br />
to satisfy her sweet<br />
tooth in one of<br />
Madrid’s oldest<br />
bakeries.<br />
connie<br />
Tsang<br />
Connie is a<br />
Toronto-based<br />
event and<br />
documentary<br />
photographer who<br />
has worked with<br />
the likes of the<br />
CBC, Globe & Mail,<br />
and the Museum<br />
of the City of New<br />
York.<br />
adam<br />
smiTH<br />
Adam Smith is<br />
senior writer for<br />
Empire movie<br />
magazine and is a<br />
regular broadcaster<br />
on BBC Radio 4<br />
and the World<br />
Service. His first<br />
book, The Rough<br />
Guide to 21st<br />
Century Cinema, is<br />
available now.<br />
26<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Jay<br />
merrick<br />
Jay Merrick,<br />
architecture<br />
critic of The<br />
Independent<br />
in London, has<br />
also written for<br />
Architects’ Journal<br />
and produced<br />
monograph texts<br />
for a number of<br />
major architectural<br />
practices.<br />
maTTHias<br />
HeidericH<br />
Matthias is a<br />
Berlin-based<br />
photographer<br />
whose vivid urban<br />
photography has<br />
seen him published<br />
around the<br />
world. His use of<br />
geometric shapes<br />
and colours is<br />
exceptional.
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serving treats to Madrid’s<br />
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(62)<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
38<br />
TORONTO<br />
A walk through<br />
Spadina Avenue,<br />
one of the city’s<br />
longest streets<br />
FRONT<br />
50<br />
DUBLIN<br />
A guide<br />
to Dublin’s<br />
growing <strong>com</strong>edy<br />
club scenwwe<br />
56<br />
MANILA<br />
We check out<br />
the Filipino<br />
capital, Asia’s<br />
rising star
Bits<br />
StarS / Sabio Azadi with his book; an original take on the guide book concept<br />
For You The Traveller<br />
A hAnd-bound trAvel guide with A difference thAt<br />
covers the globe, one personAl story At A time<br />
As far removed from<br />
the ‘clichéd’ travel<br />
guide as is possible,<br />
For You The Traveller<br />
is a hand-bound book (covered in<br />
salvaged rabbit fur) that features<br />
the names, stories and telephone<br />
numbers of people across the<br />
world. each contributor tells a<br />
personal story about the place<br />
they call home (all beautifully<br />
illustrated) and their telephone<br />
number. if you buy the book and<br />
are passing through their city,<br />
they promise to be a ‘port-of-call’.<br />
it’s a wonderful idea, beautifully<br />
executed, and all profits go to the<br />
swiss charity nouvelle planete.<br />
the cities include tehran, los<br />
Angeles, sapporo and Antwerp,<br />
and the chapters are written<br />
by a wide variety of people: a<br />
Wel<strong>com</strong>e<br />
to Iraq<br />
One of the most interesting<br />
exhibitions at the Venice<br />
Biennale is Wel<strong>com</strong>e To<br />
Iraq, a group exhibition of<br />
contemporary Iraqi artists covering<br />
everything from photography and<br />
painting to sculpture and installation<br />
work. All of the artists live and work<br />
in Iraq, which makes this selection of<br />
32<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
political analyst, a farmer, an<br />
urban designer, a leather worker,<br />
an ecologist and a scientist, among<br />
others. created by 21-year-old<br />
iranian-new Zealander artist<br />
nabil sabio Azadi, this is one of<br />
the most intriguing and original<br />
ideas for a travel book we have<br />
seen and, best of all, it’s for a really<br />
good cause.<br />
www.nabilsabioazadi.<strong>com</strong><br />
art different to the myriad exhibitions<br />
by Iraqi diaspora artists. Despite the<br />
problems Iraq faces at the moment<br />
– and the decades of repression – an<br />
art scene is slowly emerging. The<br />
exhibition will be held at Ca’ Dandolo,<br />
a 16th-century building that has not<br />
been used as a pavilion before. Held<br />
in a first-floor apartment, creating a<br />
salon atmosphere where visitors can<br />
sit, read and learn about Iraqi culture<br />
and drink tea. It runs from <strong>June</strong> 1st to<br />
November 24th.<br />
www.theiraqpavilion.<strong>com</strong><br />
COurTeSy: THe ArTIST AND ruyA FOuNDATION
THE QUESTION<br />
WHY DO DINOSAURS LOOK SO<br />
SCARY COMPARED TO THE ANIMALS<br />
THAT ARE AROUND TODAY?<br />
The main reason that dinosaurs look so scary is that the images you see of dinosaurs are not accurate<br />
representations of what they really looked like. Dinosaur reconstructions tend to be done conservatively,<br />
meaning that muscle mass is minimised and the skin is stretched tightly over that mass. Surface<br />
adornments and colours are not known, so they’re not added. We now know that many dinosaurs<br />
had feathers of various types, so there’s plenty of opportunity for colours, decorations, tufts and<br />
fluff and fur – however most of the drawings of dinosaurs do not take these into account – and this<br />
results in very scary depictions. Look at a skeleton model of a cat, for example, and it will look quite<br />
scary without its fur. Of course, another reason dinosaurs look so scary, is that they were, in fact,<br />
scary. Or at least, some of them were, given their huge size. And the most popular dinosaurs (in terms<br />
of their representation in films, for example) are the biggest ones. Jurassic Park<br />
would have been a less successful film had it focused on the Parvicursor<br />
remotus, an animal smaller than a duck. Lastly, we are just not used<br />
to seeing these animals – given that they do not exist any more.<br />
If the only visuals we had of a rhino were imperfect drawings,<br />
we would think them pretty scary too – in fact, the<br />
rhino proves that some current animals are just as scary as<br />
any dinosaur.<br />
One of Britain’s best-loved<br />
<strong>com</strong>ics, Michael McIntyre,<br />
brings his <strong>com</strong>edy antics to<br />
Dubai World Trade Centre’s<br />
Sheikh Rashid Hall on <strong>June</strong><br />
7th and 8th. Supported<br />
by fellow funnyman Paul<br />
Tonkinson, McIntyre’s brand of<br />
observational humour is sure<br />
to have you clutching your sides<br />
with laughter.<br />
michaelmcintyre.co.uk<br />
Jumeirah Beach Road has a lot<br />
of shopping boutiques that<br />
vary wildly in quality, but one<br />
of our favourites is Bambah,<br />
across the road from Dubai<br />
Zoo. A mixture of designer<br />
pieces from the past, as well<br />
as cheaper vintage outfits and<br />
a host of accessories, make<br />
browsing here a joy.<br />
bambah.<strong>com</strong><br />
THE GRID<br />
34<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
The Smurfs are <strong>com</strong>ing to town<br />
with a live show at Mirdif City<br />
Centre. The legendary Papa<br />
Smurf will attempt to organise<br />
the Blue Moon Festival and rally<br />
his fellow smurfs to the cause.<br />
Three 25-minute performances<br />
will be held daily, and it’s free<br />
for all. It runs from <strong>June</strong> 14th<br />
to the 24th daily.<br />
mirdifcitycentre.<strong>com</strong><br />
Smiling BKK is something of<br />
a cult favourite in Dubai, with<br />
its quirky menus and kitsch<br />
décor (as well as cheap Thai<br />
food) resulting in a packed<br />
restaurant most nights of the<br />
week. With this in mind, it has<br />
opened a new branch in Wasl<br />
Square development across<br />
from Safa Park. Let’s hope the<br />
atmosphere remains the same.<br />
waslsquare.wasl.ae
Day dreaming<br />
again<br />
Imagine waking up to this view every morning. You’d be forgiven for thinking you’re still dreaming. But this is reality.<br />
The Anantara Residences is a stunning, exclusive residential property, situated within the five-star Anantara Dubai Palm Jumeirah Resort<br />
& Spa, offering a range of beautifully appointed, spacious, fully furnished one and two bedroom apartments, all boasting spectacular,<br />
unobstructed panoramic views across Palm Jumeirah, the Arabian Gulf and the Dubai skyline, in an idyllic retreat for relaxed resort living.<br />
Just another day in paradise.<br />
To arrange a viewing or for more information, call Better Homes on 600 52 2233 (within the UAE)<br />
or +971 600 52 2233 (International) or visit the onsite sales office.<br />
anantararesidences.<strong>com</strong><br />
A Seven Tides project. Anantara Residences Dubai Palm Jumeirah are not owned, developed or sold by Minor International (Thailand) PCL., Minor Hotel Group, Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas or their affiliates.<br />
Seven Tides uses the Anantara trademark and trade name under license from Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas.
aRT by: JuSTin MCGuiRk<br />
<strong>June</strong><br />
CALENDAR<br />
<strong>June</strong> 5 to 16<br />
sydney Film Festival<br />
in typical aussie style, this 12-day<br />
festival for film aficionados promotes<br />
and celebrates “courageous, audacious<br />
and cutting-edge” cinema. The<br />
<strong>com</strong>petition is fierce for this year’s<br />
60th anniversary event, with films<br />
ranging from an ode to the silent movie<br />
era, to korean director Park Chanwook’s<br />
first English-language feature,<br />
Stoker, a neo-gothic thriller starring<br />
Mia Wasikowska, Matthew Goode and<br />
nicole kidman.<br />
PRiMaVERaSound.CoM<br />
<strong>June</strong> 1 to november 24<br />
La Biennale<br />
<strong>June</strong> 7 to September 29<br />
Yoko Ono – A Retrospective<br />
To many she is simply the wife of John Lennon, to others she’s the<br />
woman who broke up The Beatles, but Yoko Ono has been engaging<br />
audiences around the world with arresting avant-garde artworks for<br />
the past 60 years. This year the experimental artist celebrates her 80th<br />
birthday, and as part of the celebrations, the Louisiana Museum of<br />
Modern Art in Copenhagen is showing a retrospective of her life and<br />
works, entitled Yoko Ono: Half-A-Wind Show.<br />
louSiana.dk<br />
The 55th International Art Exhibition takes place this month in the spectacular<br />
surroundings of the Giardini and the Arsenale in Venice. Entitled Il Palazzo<br />
Enciclopedico (The Encyclopedic Palace) works by more than 150 artists from 37<br />
countries, spanning the last century, will be on display at venues around the city.<br />
labiEnnalE.oRG<br />
Place<br />
36<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
<strong>June</strong> 26 to 30<br />
Glastonbury Festival<br />
What was once Pilton Festival, a small<br />
summer music event started by Michael<br />
Eavis in 1970, is now the world-famous<br />
Glastonbury Festival. Situated on<br />
Worthy Farm near the town of Pilton<br />
in Somerset, England, the four-day<br />
festival has a lineup featuring some of<br />
the biggest stars in the music industry.<br />
This year is no exception, with headliners<br />
including The Rolling Stones, arctic<br />
Monkeys, Rita ora, Elvis Costello & The<br />
imposters and Rufus Wainwright.<br />
GlaSTonbuRyFESTiValS.Co.uk<br />
Viewing Venice page 61
the street<br />
Spadina Avenue<br />
A street, like a person, has personality. For a Torontonian, Spadina Avenue, with its quaint streetcars<br />
and diverse culture, represents the many facets of the city’s character. Starting near the top, where<br />
it is known as Spadina Road, are high towers, dungeons and English gardens. Going south, it<br />
changes to Spadina Ave, where an iron dragon watches over shops selling Asian <strong>com</strong>fort food, cheap<br />
electronics and even dried shark fins (until the city finally makes up its mind to ban them). Midway,<br />
it opens into Kensington Market, an exhaustive blend of curio and culture. Just before it winds up<br />
on the promenades of Toronto’s harbour front, it meets the fashion district, which illustrates that<br />
the city has its own, original, fashion scene.<br />
38<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Words by Kausar<br />
Shahab / Images by<br />
Connie Tsang
39<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Simon Sushi<br />
Popular with University of Toronto students, the menu at<br />
Simon Sushi features an impressive selection of Japanese<br />
cuisine. As chef Simon Au says, his nori, wakame, miso<br />
and chirashi is better than campus food, especially<br />
with generous serving sizes. The Bento box, made up<br />
of teriyaki, dumplings, sushi, shrimp and vegetable<br />
tempura is dependable, and the U of T Roll, a maki roll<br />
of barbequed eel, avocado and cream cheese, honouring<br />
his most loyal patrons, is, understandably, one of the most<br />
popular orders.<br />
409 Spadina Ave<br />
Tel: +1 (416) 9772828<br />
Toronto Music Garden<br />
Toronto Music Garden represents Bach’s Suite 1 in G<br />
Major. There are six sections, each with a conceptspecific<br />
landscape. Prelude is a walkway representing<br />
a river’s undulations; Allemande is a birch forest<br />
representing a German dance form; Courante is<br />
a verdant field symbolising movements from the<br />
courante dance style; Sarabande is a conifer grove in<br />
the style of a Spanish dance, with a stone platform<br />
for readings by authors; Minuets is a flower parterre<br />
with a performance area, evocative of formality and<br />
precision, much like the dance; and Gigue is a series<br />
of grass steps around an amphitheatre, reflecting<br />
the boisterous English jig. Definitely one for music<br />
or garden enthusiasts, but also a nice spot for an<br />
afternoon stroll.<br />
harbourfrontcentre.<strong>com</strong><br />
Tel: +1 (416) 9734000<br />
Spadina and Queen’s Quay
The City of Toronto Archives<br />
Toronto Archives has a huge collection of public-access<br />
photographs, such as the picture of a man in breeches<br />
drinking from a <strong>com</strong>munal water cup at a fountain on<br />
Spadina Ave itself (circa 1822), as well as maps, records and<br />
other historical materials. Browsing feels a little voyeuristic,<br />
but there’s nothing like a spot of snooping on a sleepy<br />
afternoon. There are also year-round exhibits.<br />
toronto.ca/archives<br />
255 Spadina Road<br />
Tel: +1 (416) 3975000<br />
Moore Gallery<br />
Works by prominent and emerging Canadian painters and<br />
sculptors are exhibited, and for sale, at this attractive gallery.<br />
It’s an excellent place to take in some Canadian art, and in<br />
the past it has supported home-grown art movements such as<br />
Les Automatistes, pioneered by francophone artists such as<br />
Pierre Gauvreau and Janine Carreau. The gallery is currently<br />
exhibiting Michael Adamson’s Wolf Pavilion.<br />
mooregallery.<strong>com</strong><br />
80 Spadina Ave<br />
Tel: +1 (416) 5043914<br />
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<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Kensington Market<br />
This busy market is reminiscent of London’s<br />
Portobello Road. Rare alabaster? Genuine<br />
plaster? A filigreed samovar owned by the<br />
Czar? A pen used by Shelley? A new Botticelli?<br />
Women in clicking stilettos scour the ground<br />
for vintage lace and reproduction trinkets,<br />
while a local production <strong>com</strong>pany retells<br />
Medea and Faust using the mediums<br />
of fire breathing, stilt walking and puppetry.<br />
Visitors should not miss Global Cheese, an<br />
educator and seller of coagulated dairy, or<br />
Chocolate Addict, which sells interesting<br />
flavours such as wasabi and potato chip.<br />
kensington-market.ca<br />
Spadina and Dundas<br />
King Textiles<br />
A haven of fabrics, patterns, trims, pompoms,<br />
home décor, drapery, sewing accessories, trims<br />
and leather. Smack in the middle of the fashion<br />
district, King Textiles lures fashion students<br />
and DIY interior decorators alike. Even with<br />
browsers, the manager, Eti, is incredibly patient,<br />
friendly and wel<strong>com</strong>ing. If in the area and ready<br />
for nuptials, check out the very impressive<br />
bridal section.<br />
kingtextiles.ca<br />
161 Spadina Ave<br />
Tel: +1 (416) 5040600
Spadina House<br />
Across the street from the turrets of Toronto’s<br />
own castle, Casa Loma, sits a less ostentatious<br />
property. Originally built by financier James<br />
Austin in 1866, Spadina House is beautifully<br />
restored and now operates as a museum.<br />
Visitors can take a period tour, which will<br />
allow them to discover more about the family<br />
that resided in the house for four generations,<br />
and even confirm or dispel reports of an<br />
animal apparition; the spirit is said to be<br />
associated with a taxidermist’s wolf exhibited<br />
in the entrance.<br />
285 Spadina Road<br />
Tel: +1 (416) 3926910<br />
Dai Kuang<br />
Wah Herb Market<br />
Like an apothecary’s lab, this herbal store evokes<br />
a sense of untapped prowess and ancient secrets.<br />
Gathered, dried and pounded, the herbs make for<br />
interesting browsing and inspired buying. Just<br />
the list of ailments the herbs are supposed to cure<br />
– “clear heat”, “drain fire or clear heat”, “resolve<br />
toxicity” – puts you in a revitalised state. It is also<br />
fun to see how <strong>com</strong>mon herbs translate graphically.<br />
Ma bo, or the fruiting body of the <strong>com</strong>mon puffball,<br />
aptly translates as “horse inflation”.<br />
280 Spadina Ave<br />
Tel: +1 (416) 5972224<br />
Chinatown Centre Food Court<br />
Revel in quintessential Hong Kong, high-density<br />
occupancy, and audio-visual-olfactory overload,<br />
then make your way to the underground food court<br />
to brave an eclectic profusion of mini tasting menus.<br />
Vendors offer four items for $2.99 (CAD), including<br />
the popular fried chicken.<br />
222 Spadina Ave<br />
Tel: +1 (416) 5998877<br />
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Luxury beyond your dreams<br />
Quasar Istanbul is the first meta-luxury real estate project in Turkey,<br />
which brings the Swiss excellence and perfectionism together with the Turkish hospitality and dynamism.<br />
Quasar Istanbul, located in the very heart of Istanbul city, also presents the Fairmont Quasar Istanbul Hotel,<br />
the very first of the globally renowned Fairmont Hotels in Turkey as well as the Fairmont Residences and<br />
the world’s first branded Fairmont Offices. The project is being developed on the site of an ancient Liqueur Factory,<br />
which was designed by one of France's most famous architects, Robert Mallet Stevens.<br />
The building will be reconstructed as a centre for culture, art and fashion.<br />
YOUR BEST CHOICE FOR THE RIGHT REAL ESTATE INVESTMENT IN TURKEY!<br />
Quasar Istanbul has already been pre-certified<br />
at the highest “gold” category as Turkey’s first green project<br />
in <strong>com</strong>pliance with Germany’s DGNB standards.<br />
Quasar Istanbul Sales Office<br />
VIATRANS - MEYDANBEY<br />
+90 212 444 7 123<br />
Luxury Properties www.quasaristanbul.<strong>com</strong><br />
Images: Marcel Wanders
SKYPOD<br />
Dutch jazz singer Caro Emerald reveals<br />
her favourite tracks<br />
1. 2. 3. 4.<br />
Madonna<br />
I Should Watch TV<br />
It is from Madonna’s<br />
very first album, and it<br />
had great meaning for<br />
me when I was a little<br />
girl. I recently bought<br />
it again, and I’ve been<br />
dancing around my<br />
room to it daily.<br />
Dinah Washington<br />
Mad About The Boy<br />
A wonderful song by the<br />
queen of the blues. I sang<br />
this for Jools Holland on<br />
his radio show, and he<br />
invited me back to sing<br />
it on his New Year TV<br />
show, the Hootenanny.<br />
I love it.<br />
Amy Winehouse<br />
Love Is A<br />
Losing Game<br />
Amy was a great singer,<br />
a total original. This<br />
song just goes straight<br />
to the heart. It’s heartbreaking<br />
that she left us.<br />
44<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
Rihanna<br />
Stay<br />
A very intimate,<br />
vulnerable and open<br />
song. As a singer, I<br />
think Rihanna is<br />
fantastic, she has<br />
amazing timing. The<br />
guest is Mikky Ekko,<br />
a relatively unknown<br />
name – that’s brave, and<br />
demands a lot of respect.
5. Prince<br />
Newpower Soul<br />
This is from Prince’s New<br />
Power Generation period.<br />
Stylistically, it’s a little bit<br />
more hip-hop than the<br />
music he’s usually known<br />
for, but he’s always got an<br />
ear for a perfect groove.<br />
6. M.I.A.<br />
Paper Planes<br />
A more experimental<br />
choice. Whenever I go on<br />
a road trip, this is the song<br />
that I play to get me in a<br />
holiday mood. The way<br />
she plays around with<br />
sound is incredible.<br />
7. Bobby McFerrin<br />
Don’t Worry, Be Happy<br />
I used to sing this a capella.<br />
It’s the ultimate happy<br />
song – who doesn’t grin<br />
when they listen to it?<br />
8. Shirley Bassey<br />
Where Do I Begin<br />
(Love Story)<br />
I love the phrase ‘he fills<br />
my heart’; when she sings it,<br />
the song really opens up.<br />
<strong>June</strong> 24 to July 7<br />
Wimbledon Championships<br />
Hosted in the London suburb of Wimbledon, the world’s oldest tennis<br />
championships are not only the highlight of the year’s tennis season but<br />
also the telltale sign that summer has arrived in Europe. Predict<br />
unpredictable weather, high drama, punnets of strawberries, a packed<br />
out Henman Hill (or Murray Mound as it is known today) and plenty of<br />
appearances from Prince William and Kate Middleton.<br />
wimbledon.<strong>com</strong><br />
Manila<br />
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<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Asian Tiger page 56<br />
JUNE<br />
CALENDAR
TExT: GABrIElA MAJ // WWW.JuMEIrAH.cOM/JuMEIrAH-DHEvANAFuSHI<br />
the Room<br />
vIllA 10<br />
JuMEIrAH DHEvANAFuSHI<br />
MAlDIvES<br />
After the turquoise wake left behind by a white speedboat jetting along<br />
the glistening surface of the vast Indian Ocean, guests arrive at the<br />
stunning Jumeriah Dhevanafushi Resort perched on top one of the<br />
Maldives smallest and most beautiful islands. Corridors of lush, perfectly<br />
manicured green jungle lead to the property’s 19 island villas. Nestled into<br />
a <strong>com</strong>pletely private slice of beach front surrounded by tall palms, weaving<br />
mangroves and blooming hibiscus, the experience guarantees peaceful<br />
seclusion and rapid de<strong>com</strong>pression. Complete with an outdoor rain<br />
shower, large indoor and outdoor plunge pools, a plush secondary out door<br />
day bed, two 42-inch flat screen TVs, separate living, dining and<br />
entertainment areas and a private white sand beach, there is little<br />
left to desire. With a personal butler on call 24 hours a day guests can<br />
sequester <strong>com</strong>pletely or fill up their time enjoying the resorts three<br />
restaurants, spa, two large infinity pools and mixologist-manned<br />
bar. Snorkelling with horn-billed sea turtles in the technicoloured<br />
forest of life also known as the house reef is just steps away from your<br />
bed and only one of many <strong>com</strong>plimentary water activities on offer.<br />
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<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
INTERNET SPEED: 2MB<br />
PILLOWS: Eight<br />
BED SIzE: 2 x 3metres<br />
(Oversized Super King)<br />
iPOD DOCK: Yes<br />
CLUB SANDWICH<br />
DELIVERY TIME: 22 mins<br />
COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS:<br />
Fresh fruit delivered each<br />
afternoon, a unique Maldivian<br />
sweet delivered every evening<br />
and fruit Sushi upon arrival.<br />
TOILETRY BRAND: Hermès<br />
ExTRAS: Nespresso and<br />
1837 TWG Tea<br />
DAILY NEWSPAPER:<br />
A4 printed versions of the<br />
IHT and the FT available every<br />
day. Specific international<br />
titles available upon request.<br />
TV CHANNELS: 24<br />
VIEW: 4/5<br />
RATE: 1,560$
ook<br />
ALL THAT IS<br />
James Salter<br />
James Salter – possibly the<br />
greatest American novelist<br />
you have never heard of – has<br />
released his latest novel, All<br />
That Is, at the age of 87, more than 30 years since his last<br />
book. What is astonishing is not his age, but it’s that it’s so<br />
good. But then Salter has always existed off the radar; he<br />
is no Updike or Roth, despite classics such as Light Years<br />
and A Sport And A Pastime. And so to this, his sixth novel.<br />
It traces the life of Philip Bowman, a naval officer who goes<br />
into publishing in New York, and who, as we follow his life<br />
through the 1950s, ’60s, ’70s and ’80s, gets more and more<br />
disillusioned with his lot. Salter has always been brilliant,<br />
and this is him at his best. A great novel.<br />
film<br />
WorLd WAr Z<br />
From George A Romero’s Dawn Of The Dead to<br />
the seemingly endless Resident Evil franchise, one<br />
thing is clear – zombie movies just won’t die. In<br />
World War Z, director Marc Forster tackles<br />
the ‘what-if’ scenario of a spreading zombie<br />
pandemic so large that it engulfs the world,<br />
eradicating entire countries. The film seems to<br />
pay fleeting regard to Max Brooks’ much-lauded<br />
original novel, but it does have a leading role for<br />
perennial do-gooder Brad Pitt.<br />
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<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
album<br />
consume<br />
Love In THe<br />
fuTure<br />
John Legend<br />
R&B star and serial<br />
collaborator John<br />
Legend shakes off<br />
a five-year hiatus<br />
with the launch of<br />
his fourth studio<br />
album Love In The<br />
Future. The understated singer/songwriter, known<br />
for his smooth and promiscuous lyrics, returns to<br />
the spotlight with an album featuring production<br />
from long-time friends and collaborators Kanye<br />
West and Dave Tozer who both worked on Legend’s<br />
first two albums.
OUR MAN IN<br />
Funny People<br />
Irish writer and <strong>com</strong>edian Carl Cullinane takes a tour of Dublin’s<br />
<strong>com</strong>edy scene and explains how laughter is helping Dubliners<br />
cope cope with the city’s economic slump<br />
Ireland and <strong>com</strong>edy<br />
have always been<br />
intertwined, with the<br />
country’s long-standing<br />
oral tradition and a literary canon<br />
rich in wit, from Oscar Wilde to<br />
Samuel Beckett to Jonathan Swift.<br />
It has forged a national character<br />
where humour is the instinctive<br />
reaction to triumph and failure<br />
alike, both of which the country<br />
HEADLINE ACT /<br />
The Stags Head<br />
is a revered Irish<br />
pub which hosts<br />
a <strong>com</strong>edy night<br />
has experienced in recent times.<br />
“We have a sense of humour that<br />
<strong>com</strong>es naturally to us,” agrees<br />
Colm McGlinchey, <strong>com</strong>edian<br />
and co-founder of the Comedy<br />
Crunch, one of the most popular<br />
<strong>com</strong>edy nights in Dublin, adding,<br />
with more than a hint of mischief,<br />
“Nobody in this country takes<br />
themselves too seriously.”<br />
As can be seen from street<br />
corner to public house, Ireland<br />
contains more cheek per unit of the<br />
population than anywhere in the<br />
OECD, and nowhere is this more<br />
obvious than the vibrant and everevolving<br />
Dublin <strong>com</strong>edy scene. A<br />
cradle to international stars such<br />
as Dara O’Briain, Dylan Moran<br />
50<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
Images by Kyle Tunney<br />
and Ed Byrne, and one which<br />
continues to produce prodigious<br />
new talent for export. “There is<br />
such a high standard for such a<br />
small country,” enthuses Americanborn<br />
Aidan Bishop, resident MC<br />
of the International Comedy Club.<br />
McGlinchey agrees: “Some of the<br />
talent here really is world class, as<br />
good as <strong>com</strong>edy gets.”<br />
Much of this talent can be seen<br />
at McGlinchey’s Comedy Crunch,<br />
one of Dublin’s biggest recent<br />
success stories. Tucked away in<br />
the cellar of the Stag’s Head, a<br />
grand old pub with an oaky sense<br />
of tradition, every Sunday and<br />
Monday nights, the event makes<br />
the foundations rumble with
the mirth of locals and visitors<br />
alike. But what is it about Irish<br />
<strong>com</strong>edy that sets it apart? Most<br />
prominently, in keeping with the<br />
oral tradition, stand-up <strong>com</strong>edy in<br />
Ireland has always had a history<br />
of raconteurs. “The Irish are<br />
definitely into their storytelling,<br />
relying on natural charm and<br />
character to really convey hilarious<br />
stories,” McGlinchey says.<br />
This is in evidence seven<br />
nights a week across Dublin’s city<br />
centre. All tastes are catered for,<br />
Vicar St, one of the best venues<br />
in the country for both music and<br />
<strong>com</strong>edy, offers the biggest Irish<br />
acts and the best visitors from<br />
foreign shores; the ever-popular<br />
Laughter Lounge provides<br />
uproarious fare for weekend<br />
audiences; and the International<br />
caters to the more discerning<br />
<strong>com</strong>edy aficionado, with a mixture<br />
of established <strong>com</strong>ics, up-and<strong>com</strong>ers,<br />
and critically acclaimed<br />
international acts.<br />
The International epitomises<br />
the raw experience of Irish<br />
<strong>com</strong>edy: a winding staircase<br />
above an old-fashioned pub,<br />
and a packed, intimate room,<br />
with eager audiences practically<br />
spilling onto the stage in front of<br />
the <strong>com</strong>ics, who are without even<br />
a microphone to hide behind. A<br />
focal point of the scene, it has been<br />
stewarded through the last 12 years<br />
by two brothers from Queens,<br />
New York: Des and Aidan Bishop.<br />
Aidan explains “I want to keep live<br />
<strong>com</strong>edy in the consciousness of<br />
Dublin City, keeping the quality of<br />
the acts high while also developing<br />
new talent. It’s a balancing act, but<br />
nothing beats live <strong>com</strong>edy.”<br />
Comedians and promoters<br />
alike agree that this balancing<br />
act in Dublin continues to be a<br />
largely successful one. Comedy<br />
here remains in rude health,<br />
despite the ups and downs in<br />
Irish society in recent times. But<br />
how have economic<br />
troubles affected<br />
the <strong>com</strong>edy scene?<br />
According to <strong>com</strong>edian<br />
Colm O’Regan, one<br />
of Ireland’s sharpest<br />
observers, “Comedy has<br />
got a bit more political<br />
and topical, but only up<br />
to a point. The market<br />
for and the ability to<br />
write topical <strong>com</strong>edy<br />
probably stays about<br />
the same over time.”<br />
While some audiences<br />
have an appetite for<br />
satire of Ireland’s often<br />
<strong>com</strong>ically dysfunctional<br />
political system, others<br />
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<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
prefer their <strong>com</strong>edy to be an<br />
escape from such grim realities.<br />
Ireland’s economic problems<br />
have served only to contribute<br />
to a real sense of ‘survival of the<br />
wittiest’ on the <strong>com</strong>edy scene. In<br />
a country with ever-more forms<br />
of entertainment <strong>com</strong>peting for<br />
a share of smaller budgets, the<br />
scene has had to adapt. Colm<br />
McGlinchey again argues, “People<br />
are cautious, but if you show them<br />
TWITTER<br />
PITCH<br />
rider Shack<br />
Your family-owned<br />
surf shop. Voted “Best Surf<br />
Shop in Los Angeles” in 2007,<br />
2008 and 2009 by FOX 11.<br />
Rider Shack starred in an<br />
episode of Peter Perfect<br />
on the Style Network<br />
@ridershack<br />
mollusk Surf Shop<br />
A surfing institution based<br />
in San Francisco and Venice<br />
Beach. Mollusk offers a<br />
place where surfing, art,<br />
craft, music, film and visual<br />
media <strong>com</strong>e together<br />
@MolluskSurfShop<br />
wittering Surf Shop<br />
The surfer’s surf shop.<br />
This West Sussex based<br />
shop specialises in surfing,<br />
surf hardware and surf fashion.<br />
When it <strong>com</strong>es to surfing,<br />
it really knows its stuff<br />
@WittSurfShop<br />
Home<br />
grown/ The<br />
International<br />
has long been<br />
the centre<br />
of the Dublin<br />
scene<br />
Summer’s nearly here, and what better way<br />
to cool off than to catch a few waves? Here’s<br />
our pick of the social-media-savvy surf<br />
shacks, shops and schools from around the<br />
rio Surf n Stay<br />
Rio Surf N Stay is a unique<br />
surf camp and hostel in<br />
one of the most fabulous<br />
locations in the world:<br />
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.<br />
Enjoy a truly unique<br />
cultural experience<br />
@Riosurfnstay<br />
Hurricane Surf Shop<br />
Established in 2001 in Durban,<br />
South Africa, Hurricane<br />
started out with the design<br />
and manufacture of ocean<br />
paddleboards, surfboards<br />
and surf accessories<br />
@hurricanesurf<br />
Let’s go Surfing<br />
Australia’s greatest surf<br />
experience on Australia’s<br />
greatest beach. Let’s go<br />
Surfing is one of Sydney’s<br />
top -three tourist activities<br />
located on Bondi Beach<br />
@LetsgoSurf
laughing matter / Dublin’s <strong>com</strong>edy scene is an antidote to the city’s economic problems<br />
a good time, they’ll be back and<br />
they’ll tell people.” The proximity<br />
and accessibility of Dublin’s<br />
<strong>com</strong>pact city centre also adds a<br />
particularly <strong>com</strong>petitive edge. As<br />
the Capital Comedy Club’s Simon<br />
O’Keefe points out, “Everything<br />
is on in a small radius in the city<br />
centre, so you have a lot of venues<br />
trying different<br />
and new things.”<br />
Not everything<br />
works, but it<br />
is this spirit of<br />
experimentalism<br />
that is keeping<br />
the scene fresh.<br />
The monthly<br />
Nighthawks caters<br />
towards the arty<br />
end of the market,<br />
with <strong>com</strong>edians<br />
rubbing shoulders<br />
with musicians,<br />
storytellers and<br />
poets. The Monthly General<br />
Meeting, an event invariably more<br />
entertaining than its name would<br />
IrIsh <strong>com</strong>edy<br />
has been<br />
grIpped by<br />
the dIy ethIc<br />
wIth youtube<br />
vIdeos and<br />
podcasts<br />
indicate, is held in a different<br />
venue every month, with locations<br />
varying from a canal boat to a<br />
gentlemen’s club to Dublin’s<br />
Unitarian Church.<br />
Irish <strong>com</strong>edy has also been<br />
gripped by the DIY ethic,<br />
with podcasts and YouTube<br />
videos increasingly essential in<br />
introducing new<br />
<strong>com</strong>edians to a<br />
wider audience.<br />
One act, Maria<br />
Boyle, even<br />
supplements her<br />
stand-up as the<br />
in-house cartoonist<br />
in the esteemed<br />
lavatories of WJ<br />
Kavanagh’s pub.<br />
Also in the DIY<br />
spirit, another<br />
recent addition<br />
to the scene has<br />
been the 10 Days<br />
in Dublin Festival, a no-budget,<br />
not-for-profit smorgasbord of<br />
arts events around the city for<br />
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<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
a week and a half every July,<br />
with <strong>com</strong>edy at its centre. A<br />
mini-Edinburgh Fringe, it has<br />
an open-access philosophy at<br />
its heart. Rob Kearns, one of its<br />
founders, explains: “We don’t<br />
decide who you should see, so<br />
we give the audience the chance.<br />
They don’t have those choices at<br />
other festivals.” In only a couple of<br />
years, it has grown exponentially,<br />
with Kearns promising this year’s<br />
edition, running from the 4th to<br />
the 13th of July, will be “Bigger,<br />
louder, and more accessible to<br />
audiences.”<br />
It is this spirit of enterprise<br />
that increasingly characterises<br />
Irish <strong>com</strong>edy. From the packed,<br />
stout-laden tables of punters to<br />
the cramped staircases that offer<br />
whispered shelter to the <strong>com</strong>edians,<br />
to the stages, large and small, where<br />
night after night they spread the<br />
simple but often undervalued gift of<br />
genuine honest laughter, Dublin’s<br />
<strong>com</strong>edy scene remains a jewel in<br />
Ireland’s slightly tarnished crown.
Matthew Lightner,<br />
executive chef at<br />
Atera, reveals his<br />
favourite places to<br />
eat out in New York<br />
L<br />
Nobu<br />
105 Hudson Street<br />
New York<br />
Tel: +1 (212) 219 0500<br />
noburestaurants.<strong>com</strong>/new-york<br />
LUNCH<br />
My favourite place for lunch is Nobu, in Tribeca. The<br />
consistency is incredible; it doesn’t matter what time<br />
of year, what time of day or what is going on, you<br />
can always expect it to be really, really good. One of<br />
the best dishes is the hamachi with jalapenos; it’s so<br />
refreshing; it has acidity, a little bit of spice to it, and<br />
the texture of the dish is really nice – it makes for<br />
great eating. The interior is the classic Nobu vibe the<br />
Rockwell group designed years ago, but it is really<br />
fun, dark, you know – a lot of Japanese influence. But<br />
it’s a great place to pop in at midday and have some<br />
sake, some hamachi, and calm down a little.<br />
D<br />
B<br />
D DINNER<br />
When it <strong>com</strong>es to dinner, it has to be Franny’s in Brooklyn.<br />
It’s a very local, very Italian-influenced place, but the<br />
level of creativity, the subtleties, the quality of the product,<br />
and the quality of the four or five ingredients that they<br />
put together – well, it’s really hard to beat for that level of<br />
food. The charcuterie is amazing, and their traditional thin<br />
pizzas are fun and fantastic. It’s a youthful crowd from the<br />
Brooklyn neighbourhood, and they serve great wine by the<br />
bottle, and the glass, which is very reasonable. The interior<br />
is casual inside; they have just moved to a new spot, but<br />
it’s still in Brooklyn. The place is perfect for the start of an<br />
evening in New York, although I could make a whole night<br />
out of it – but that’s just me.<br />
55<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
B<br />
BREAKFAST<br />
BLD<br />
Usually I only eat breakfast out on a<br />
Sunday, and it’s normally a brunch.<br />
Tertulia does a really good Spanishinfluenced<br />
brunch with an amazing<br />
range of toast with eggs on it that is just<br />
incredible. They have all kinds of different<br />
refreshments, but I usually opt for my<br />
regular Sunday drink, the Bloody Mary,<br />
or La Gilda Maria Sangriente, as it’s called<br />
in Tertulia. It has anchovy, olive, pickled<br />
piparra, vodka or gin, but they have a<br />
whole selection of Spanish wine, good<br />
beers and a big list of different cocktails to<br />
choose from. It’s a pretty youthful, lively<br />
crowd in there on a Sunday morning.<br />
L<br />
Tertulia<br />
359, 6th Avenue<br />
New York<br />
Tel: +1 (646) 559 9909<br />
tertulianyc.<strong>com</strong><br />
Franny’s<br />
348 Flatbush Avenue<br />
Brooklyn, New York<br />
Tel: +1 (718) 230 0221<br />
frannysbrooklyn.<strong>com</strong>
Nawala<br />
mapped<br />
Manila<br />
Hotels<br />
1. The Peninsula Manila<br />
14.554852,121.025447<br />
With 2. Hotel H20 a dynamic up-and-<strong>com</strong>ing 6. Wildflour art scene, Café + Bakery eclectic nightlife 10. and The Blind wel<strong>com</strong>ing Pig locals, Manila might<br />
14.579638,120.972959<br />
14.549482,121.046333<br />
14.555417,121.015634<br />
just be the most underrated city in Southeast Asia. This rapidly developing high-rise metropolis<br />
is 3. Edsa steeped Shangri-La in history, and everything 7. Sala from the cuisine to the 11. historic Museum Café hotels celebrates Manila’s<br />
15. MO Space<br />
14.58144,121.05682<br />
14.559206,121.017598<br />
14.553571,121.023276<br />
colourful past. Far from being merely a stepping-stone on the way to one of the country’s many<br />
incredible 4. Manila Hotel islands, Manila is a 8. destination La Cocina de Tita Moning in its own right and 12. Skye deserves Lounge to be explored.<br />
14.582962,120.97365<br />
14.595738,120.992575<br />
14.549238,121.052461<br />
www.Hg2.<strong>com</strong><br />
HOTELS<br />
Intramuros<br />
01. The Peninsula Manila<br />
02. Hotel H20<br />
03. EDSA Shangri-La<br />
04. Manila Hotel<br />
Sampaloc<br />
Ermita Paco<br />
Malate<br />
Pasay City<br />
Restaurants<br />
5. Abé<br />
14.549589,121.054402<br />
rESTAurAnTS<br />
Pandacan<br />
05. Abé<br />
06. Wildflour Café + Bakery<br />
07. Sala<br />
08. La Cocina de Tita Moning<br />
56<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Makati City<br />
Bars<br />
9. Opus<br />
14.518601,121.019774<br />
BArS / CLuBS<br />
09. Opus<br />
10. The Blind Pig<br />
11. Museum Café<br />
12. Skye Lounge<br />
San Juan<br />
Mandaluyong City<br />
06<br />
Taguig City<br />
GALLErIES<br />
Pateros<br />
Galleries<br />
13. The Drawing Room<br />
14.564145,121.016336<br />
14. Avellana Art Gallery<br />
14.54078,120.995264<br />
14.55029,121.050973<br />
16. Finale Art File<br />
14.544973,121.01695<br />
13. The Drawing room<br />
14. Avellana Art Gallery<br />
15. MO Space<br />
16. Finale Art File
HOTELS<br />
01 The<br />
Peninsula Manila<br />
The Peninsula<br />
Manila is the<br />
last word in<br />
old-school<br />
opulence and<br />
luxury, designed with the<br />
city’s colonial past in mind.<br />
Its grand lobby, decadent<br />
furnishings and central<br />
location make it a consistent<br />
favourite with business<br />
travellers and tourists alike.<br />
02 Hotel H20<br />
Inspired by the waters of<br />
the Philippines, Hotel H2O<br />
offers an opportunity to<br />
‘sleep with the fishes’ by<br />
lining selected bedrooms<br />
with majestic aquariums.<br />
As well as being full of<br />
character, Hotel H2O is<br />
conveniently located on the<br />
idyllic Manila Bay.<br />
03 EDSA Shangri-La<br />
Encased within a calm oasis<br />
of lush tropical gardens in<br />
the centre of Manila, the<br />
EDSA Shangri-La not only<br />
offers a pocket of peace<br />
amidst the madness of the<br />
metropolis, but it also boasts<br />
a stunning pool, spa and<br />
impeccable service too.<br />
04 Manila Hotel<br />
The oldest luxury hotel in<br />
the Philippines, the historic<br />
Manila Hotel has had over<br />
a century of practice when<br />
it <strong>com</strong>es to providing an<br />
unparalleled stay in the<br />
capital. Past guests include<br />
everyone from international<br />
diplomats to The Beatles.<br />
rESTauranTS<br />
05 Abé<br />
Known throughout Manila<br />
for its delicious traditional<br />
Filipino fare, including<br />
spectacular bamboo rice,<br />
Abé’s location in the<br />
fort at Serendra offers<br />
outdoor seating and, in the<br />
restaurant itself, a tribute to<br />
local writers and artists.<br />
06 Wildflour<br />
Café + Bakery<br />
Wildflour Café + Bakery<br />
is the new offering from<br />
chef Walter Manzke, a<br />
former student of Alain<br />
Ducasse. At one of the city’s<br />
hottest tables, expect to<br />
sample chic, contemporary<br />
cuisine and signature<br />
‘tarte flambés.’<br />
06<br />
57<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
LiquiD GoLD / Manila Bay offers some respite<br />
from the chaos of the city<br />
07 Sala<br />
A fine-dining oasis, Sala has<br />
innovative, continental cuisine and<br />
an infinitely elegant setting which<br />
ranks it as one of the most refined,<br />
romantic restaurants in Manila.<br />
Sala is conveniently located just off<br />
a bustling street in the centre<br />
of Makati.<br />
08 La Cocina de Tita Moning<br />
An exclusive, reservationsonly<br />
affair, La Cocina de Tita<br />
Moning creates an in<strong>com</strong>parable<br />
dining experience by <strong>com</strong>bining<br />
traditional Filipino food with the<br />
fascinating history of Manila in<br />
the setting of an ancestral home.<br />
04
ars / clubs<br />
09 Opus<br />
One of the city’s most<br />
popular night clubs,<br />
Opus presents an<br />
opulent, Europeanstyle<br />
setting where<br />
revellers can either<br />
dance the night away<br />
or sit back and enjoy<br />
an expertly crafted<br />
cocktail amongst<br />
Manila’s A-listers.<br />
10 The Blind Pig<br />
Manila’s first<br />
speakeasy, the<br />
Blind Pig attracts<br />
an eager crowd of<br />
cocktail aficionados<br />
to its undercover<br />
location. There’s<br />
no sign on the door<br />
and no obvious<br />
entrance, so ring<br />
the doorbell to gain<br />
admittance.<br />
11 Museum Café<br />
M Café to the locals,<br />
this edgy night-time<br />
hangout regularly<br />
hosts national and<br />
international<br />
DJs who play<br />
an eclectic mix<br />
of music to an<br />
even more eclectic,<br />
cosmopolitan crowd<br />
of night owls.<br />
12 Skye Lounge<br />
Located atop<br />
the W building,<br />
Skye Lounge is both<br />
the highest club<br />
and the first real<br />
rooftop bar in<br />
the city, offering<br />
great views<br />
and a laid-back<br />
atmosphere in<br />
which to party<br />
under the stars.<br />
14<br />
GallErIEs<br />
13 The Drawing Room<br />
Initially specialising in<br />
artworks on paper, The<br />
Drawing Room has since<br />
diversified and is now one<br />
of the most high profile<br />
spaces in Manila, renowned<br />
throughout the country as a<br />
hub for dynamic contemporary<br />
Philippine fine art.<br />
14 Avellana Art Gallery<br />
The work of both<br />
established and emerging<br />
artists is shown at<br />
Avellena Art Gallery,<br />
whose space in busy<br />
Pasay City offers a<br />
haven of provocative,<br />
avant-garde and folk<br />
art, as well as an annual<br />
printmaking exhibit.<br />
58<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
09<br />
uRBAn ReSPiTe<br />
/ Opus (above)<br />
and Museum Café<br />
(below)<br />
11<br />
15 MO Space<br />
MO Space, located in the<br />
MOS Design Building, is<br />
the Gallery to visit for<br />
exciting and experimental<br />
art in Manila, where<br />
exhibitions tend to spurn<br />
the decorative and embrace<br />
installation, both video and<br />
(occasionally) performance.<br />
16 Finale Art File<br />
One of the largest of its kind<br />
in terms of floor space and<br />
cubic area, Finale Art File is<br />
open-minded, diverse and<br />
even has its own dedicated<br />
video room for new media<br />
shows. Established in the<br />
early 1980s, it is without<br />
doubt one of the best galleries<br />
in the country today.
San Giorgio Maggiore / Venice<br />
61<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong><br />
place<br />
Gondolas point the way to San Giorgio Maggiore, which is one of most famous islands in Venice. in 982 a<br />
monastery was built on the island, and in 1566 the church of San Giorgio Maggiore was constructed, a building<br />
designed by Palladio, who is considered the most influential figure in the history of western architecture. the<br />
island is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre and the teatro Verde open-air theatre.<br />
Photo: John and tina Reid
store<br />
A<br />
short stroll east from<br />
Calle Fuencarral,<br />
Madrid’s hippest<br />
fashion street, La<br />
Duquesita, a family-owned cake<br />
and chocolate shop founded in<br />
1914, sits in the centre of a cluster<br />
of buildings embellished by quirky<br />
Modernist flourishes.<br />
Outside opening hours, when<br />
the blinds are closed, you might<br />
miss the shop. Only its name,<br />
elegantly scripted in gold on glass,<br />
and gilded details on the façade<br />
announces its presence. Close by<br />
La Duquesita<br />
Words by Vicky Hayward / Images by Pablo Herranz<br />
are showier architectural details.<br />
A few yards to the west sits the<br />
Palacio de Longoria, a weddingcake<br />
of a building swathed with<br />
creamy art nouveau swirls,<br />
garlands and rosettes. Animal<br />
motifs emerge elsewhere if you<br />
look carefully. Grey lizards slither<br />
up an apartment block at the<br />
crossroads. Penguins stand on a<br />
low cornice opposite the shop.<br />
But during opening hours<br />
La Duquesita’s double window<br />
<strong>com</strong>petes well with everything<br />
around it. Each morning the shop<br />
62<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
team lays out over six dozen kinds<br />
of small cake, chocolate, biscuit,<br />
tartlet, flaky pastry, truffle and<br />
marzipan on the marble slabs in<br />
the window. Delectable to the eye,<br />
most are Spanish in origin. There<br />
is not a cup cake in sight.<br />
“I see no sense in inventing<br />
new things,” says Luis Santamaría,<br />
pâtissier and chocolate maker,<br />
aged 63, who owns and runs<br />
the shop with Teresa, his wife.<br />
“There are so many good oldfashioned<br />
cakes we cannot fit in<br />
the window.”
Dark and cool, the shop’s<br />
interior is a respite from the<br />
bright street. Here you can<br />
breathe in cake-making aromas,<br />
enjoy a coffee and gaze at large<br />
cakes laid out in brass-trimmed<br />
chiller cabinets. Overlooking it<br />
all, on an iron bracket nailed to<br />
a central column, sits a small<br />
alabaster duchess, la duquesita.<br />
Luis’s family came to own<br />
the shop unexpectedly. When<br />
Roque Pérez, the pastry cook<br />
who founded it, died in the<br />
1920s, his widow asked Luis’s<br />
pastry power / The bakery has survived the Spanish Civil War and the Second World War<br />
grandfather, Romualdo, once the<br />
shop’s apprentice, to take on the<br />
business. He kept the shop going,<br />
without a pause, right through the<br />
Spanish Civil War and the years<br />
of hunger that followed. In 1936,<br />
at the start of the war, a passer-by<br />
entered the shop and attacked<br />
the little duchess, knocking off<br />
her head. Romualdo stuck it<br />
back on and carried on baking.<br />
For three decades of austerity,<br />
the shop’s original furnishings<br />
were kept immaculately polished<br />
and dusted.<br />
63<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Luis began to help out as a<br />
teenager, after school, delivering<br />
cakes on foot to local clients.<br />
Later he learned his double<br />
craft, as pâtissier and chocolate<br />
maker, working alongside his<br />
grandfather and father in the<br />
shop’s basement. Today he leads<br />
a team of four who still make<br />
the cakes and chocolates in the<br />
underground workshop. When<br />
Luis married Teresa in 1987,<br />
she joined the shop team. Every<br />
morning she lays out the cakes in<br />
the window.
Sweet tooth / Luis and<br />
Teresa and some of the<br />
creations they stock<br />
“Coming to the business from<br />
another world, I could see the<br />
art behind the craft,” she says. “I<br />
wanted to help Luis protect that.<br />
In the shop we always explain to<br />
customers what goes into each<br />
cake or chocolate, exactly how<br />
each of them is made, so they can<br />
understand what we do.”<br />
But La Duquesita has not<br />
be<strong>com</strong>e a heritage spot. That is<br />
one of its charms. Instead Luis<br />
and Teresa run it as a family<br />
business, part of everyday life in<br />
the barrio, or quarter. Neighbours<br />
drop by for a late-breakfast cake<br />
and coffee. Well-known figures on<br />
a working visit to the Palacio de<br />
Longoria, home to Spanish artists’<br />
copyright association, may be seen<br />
emerging, cake box in hand. In the<br />
1920s, Concha Piquer, queen of<br />
popular song, was a client. Today<br />
film-maker Pedro Almodóvar,<br />
writer Almudena Grandes and<br />
footballer Xabi Alonso are regular<br />
visitors. Other clients may make<br />
a long journey here for a tray-full<br />
of cakes that have disappeared<br />
elsewhere. Everyone is treated<br />
the same way. There is always<br />
time for a chat. Only pets are<br />
turned away.<br />
Luis is evidently a virtuoso, but a<br />
reluctant one. His modesty shapes<br />
a house style based on respect for<br />
time-honoured formulas. The shop<br />
displays plenty of old-fashioned<br />
saint’s day cakes, but few avantgarde<br />
creations. Butter biscuits<br />
are baked for San Anton’s day in<br />
January, when animals are blessed<br />
at the local church. Luscious<br />
almond meringues called suspiros<br />
de modistilla, little dressmaker’s<br />
sighs, appear in the window in <strong>June</strong><br />
in time for San Antonio, the feast<br />
day of the dressmakers’ patron<br />
saint. As autumn turns to winter,<br />
little huesos de santo, or saints’<br />
bones – marzipan rolls – are made<br />
for All Saints’ Day. Come Christmas<br />
and queues stretch down the<br />
pavement for the shop’s nougats<br />
and marzipan eels.<br />
64<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Luis says that La Duquesita’s<br />
cakes and chocolates are made<br />
special by their raw materials.<br />
“The arrival of quality conched<br />
chocolate in Spain after the<br />
war was our greatest new<br />
opportunity,” he says. He lays<br />
as much importance on that as<br />
the arrival of refrigeration in the<br />
1960s. You can taste this quality.<br />
If you are given a paper-wrapped<br />
packet of the shop’s chocolates,<br />
like its orange-zest naranjines, you<br />
notice the dark, rich chocolate<br />
from supreme French supplier<br />
Valrhona. The orange zest in the<br />
naranjines, lightly bitter, is homemade.<br />
“Sometimes good natural<br />
products can be difficult to buy at<br />
any price,” says Luis. “So then we<br />
have to make them.” Even in the<br />
current economic crisis there is no<br />
cost-cutting or time-saving here.<br />
That, of course, implies<br />
sacrifice. Luis and Teresa work six<br />
days a week, including Sundays.<br />
“But it is not an effort,” says<br />
Teresa. “It <strong>com</strong>es naturally, part of<br />
what the family has handed down.<br />
You might call it knowing how<br />
to do things well.” Luis’s father<br />
earned recognition for that. He<br />
won international <strong>com</strong>petitions.<br />
“But Luis is more like his<br />
grandfather,” says Teresa. “His<br />
motto is, el premio es el publico<br />
todos los días.” The prize is the<br />
public <strong>com</strong>ing every day.<br />
La Duquesita, Calle Fernando VI, 2,<br />
28004 Madrid, Spain<br />
Tel: +34 913 08 02 31
The eyes of the world are on Istanbul;<br />
The eyes of Istanbul are on Valle Lacus.<br />
In Istanbul, one of the world’s most vibrant<br />
cities, forty-four lakeside villas with private<br />
pools as part of a 2,000 m2 plot, on a total<br />
area of 110,000 m2 - this is Valle Lacus.<br />
Just 25 minutes from the world’s biggest<br />
airport project, why don’t you take your<br />
place in Valle Lacus?<br />
Valle Lacus: easy to live in, hard to describe.<br />
A unique and natural way of life in Istanbul;<br />
As intelligent as it is beautiful.<br />
Klassis Golf &<br />
Country Club<br />
Hazerfen<br />
Airport<br />
E-5 Motorway<br />
Büyükçekmece<br />
Lake<br />
Marina<br />
+90 212 283 01 01<br />
www.vallelacus.<strong>com</strong><br />
www.klk.<strong>com</strong>.tr | www.kulakco.<strong>com</strong>.tr<br />
All rights regarding changes in the project, are reserved by KLK Construction Co.<br />
TEM<br />
Endem<br />
TV<br />
Tower<br />
Beylikdüzü<br />
Windsurf Club<br />
K9 Horse Club<br />
Fatih<br />
University<br />
• Büyükçekmece<br />
TEM<br />
Had›mköy<br />
Exit<br />
Mercedes<br />
Campus<br />
TÜYAP<br />
Int’l Fair Area<br />
MİGROS 5M<br />
Mall<br />
• Beylikdüzü<br />
Marmara Sea<br />
3rd Airport<br />
HUB<br />
Bauhaus<br />
Marmara Park<br />
Malls<br />
Küçükçekmece<br />
Lake<br />
Bahçeflehir<br />
• Küçükçekmece<br />
• Yeşilköy<br />
Atatürk<br />
Airport<br />
Olympic<br />
Stadium<br />
Trans European<br />
Motorway<br />
• Bakırköy
City Visions<br />
Matthias Heiderich’s portraits of<br />
the city of Dubai<br />
(p92)<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Main<br />
68<br />
superman<br />
Can The<br />
Man of Steel<br />
be rebooted<br />
successfully?<br />
82<br />
Foster<br />
An intimate<br />
interview with<br />
the architect<br />
and curator
movies<br />
The Secret Life
Of Superman<br />
With the release this month of Zack Snyder’s Man Of Steel,<br />
Adam Smith looks at the behind-the-scenes problems that<br />
made the first Superman movie such a gamble
flyer / Christopher<br />
Reeve is, for most, the<br />
most convincing actor to<br />
play Superman<br />
70<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong>
One day towards the end<br />
of March 1977, film director<br />
Richard Donner<br />
sat at a table to the side<br />
of a vast soundstage at Pinewood<br />
Studios, England. On one side of<br />
him was producer Pierre Spengler,<br />
an employee of Alexander and Ilya<br />
Salkind, the father-and-son production<br />
team who had raised the<br />
$50 million needed to bring Superman:<br />
The Movie to the big screen.<br />
Opposite them was Marlon Brando,<br />
the legendary method actor who<br />
had recently won an Oscar for his<br />
performance in The Godfather, and<br />
was now one of the highest-paid<br />
movie actors of all time, having<br />
taken a full $3.7 million of the Salkinds’<br />
money to spend a mere ten<br />
days playing the role of Jor-El, Superman’s<br />
father. Brando, fresh off a<br />
plane, had been surveying the giant<br />
Planet Krypton set, and examining<br />
the costumes manufactured from<br />
cutting-edge reflective materials<br />
produced by 3M at extraordinary<br />
cost, one of which he was scheduled<br />
to don when he began filming<br />
the next day.<br />
“I think that Jor-El should<br />
not look like the other people on<br />
Krypton,” he finally mused. “I think<br />
maybe he should appear as a kind<br />
of giant bagel.”<br />
Spengler began to gibber<br />
slightly. He and Donner had already<br />
heard rumours that Brando had<br />
discussed plans to play the role as<br />
“a green suitcase” in New York, and<br />
this new bagel development did<br />
nothing to set his mind at rest. But<br />
Donner was a pro and had dealt with<br />
difficult stars before. He kicked<br />
Spengler under the table, smiled and<br />
nodded. What neither knew was that<br />
Donner had called Apocalypse Now<br />
director Francis Ford Coppola the<br />
previous day to ask how best to<br />
handle Brando. Coppola’s advice<br />
had been simply to let the actor<br />
talk, and finally he would <strong>com</strong>e back<br />
round to the director’s idea, once he<br />
had convinced himself that it was, in<br />
fact, his own.<br />
More pressing for Donner was<br />
the fact that, even at this early stage,<br />
he and Spengler’s relationship was<br />
strained, to say the least. The director<br />
had <strong>com</strong>e aboard a mere 11<br />
weeks before, after the original<br />
director had dropped out and had<br />
found a production in utter disarray.<br />
He blamed much of it on Spengler.<br />
“They had wasted an entire year’s<br />
pre-production,” he later said, remembering<br />
his shock.<br />
The screenplay weighed in at a<br />
gargantuan 500 pages – more than<br />
twice as long as it needed to be, and<br />
packed with bad gags that had to<br />
be stripped out (at one point Superman<br />
had swooped down on to<br />
the Metropolis streets only to encounter<br />
a lollipop-sucking Kojak,<br />
much to Donner’s disgust). Even<br />
Superman’s boots were wrong.<br />
And, vitally, he didn’t have a clue<br />
how he was going to live up to what<br />
would be the movie’s legendary<br />
poster tag line: “You’ll believe a<br />
man can fly.”<br />
Marlon Brando, he was already<br />
beginning to suspect, would turn<br />
out to be the least of his worries.<br />
The first time the world met<br />
Superman in January 1933, he was<br />
not a man of steel battling for truth,<br />
justice and the American way, but<br />
a bald, thin-fingered super villain<br />
bent on world domination. Reign<br />
of The Superman, a story in Science<br />
Fiction, was the work of Jerry<br />
Siegel and Joe Shuster, a pair of<br />
young <strong>com</strong>ic book fans, and was<br />
part of their campaign to break into<br />
what was then a booming industry.<br />
The pair had met at school, where<br />
Siegel’s interest in writing science<br />
fiction and adventure stories, and<br />
Shuster’s skills in illustrating them,<br />
led to a fruitful artistic partnership.<br />
But soon after he had invented the<br />
character, Siegel began to imagine<br />
him not as a clichéd villain, but as<br />
a new kind of benevolent character.<br />
Around him the misery and<br />
hardship of the Great Depression<br />
seemed to call for an individual<br />
with incredible powers, but who<br />
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used them not to terrify and subjugate<br />
humanity, but to help it, to<br />
show mankind what it could be at<br />
its best. He would be a new kind of<br />
hero. A superhero.<br />
Thus, in <strong>June</strong> 1938, Superman<br />
made his debut in Action Comics<br />
#1 (now worth a cool $2 million,<br />
if you happen to find one in the<br />
attic). Then unable to fly – instead<br />
he “leapt tall buildings in a single<br />
bound!” – he was, nevertheless, an<br />
immediate hit, and within months<br />
it had spawned a syndicated news<br />
strip and a radio series that boasted<br />
20 million avid listeners. But while<br />
Superman became an indelible part<br />
of American popular culture, his<br />
fortunes on the big screen were<br />
initially more uncertain. The pulpy<br />
Brando said<br />
he thought<br />
Superman’s<br />
father should<br />
appear on<br />
screen as a<br />
giant bagel<br />
nature of the source material led<br />
Hollywood to all but ignore the<br />
character, and what it did produce<br />
was aimed squarely at the undiscerning<br />
kiddie market. A couple<br />
of Saturday serials were produced<br />
in the 1940s while Superman And<br />
The Mole Men, made in 1951, and<br />
starring George Reeves – later<br />
murdered; he became the first victim<br />
of the so-called curse of Superman<br />
– was, at 58 minutes long,<br />
hardly a movie at all.<br />
All that changed in 1973 when<br />
Ilya Salkind, then in Paris, walked<br />
past a poster for the French version<br />
of Zorro, starring Gallic superstar<br />
Alain Delon. Looking at<br />
the heroic figure in his billowing<br />
cape, Ilya thought of the Superman
making the cut / Marlon Brando and Richard Donner (centre left and<br />
right) before the filming of the first Superman movie<br />
<strong>com</strong>ics he had read as a boy. Often<br />
called the ultimate immigrant,<br />
the character reflected the young<br />
man’s early experiences and sense<br />
of optimism in <strong>com</strong>ing to a new<br />
country from Mexico, where he<br />
had been born, as it had millions<br />
of other Americans.<br />
The Salkinds <strong>com</strong>missioned a<br />
screenplay from Mario Puzo, who<br />
had received an Oscar for his script<br />
for The Godfather. Puzo was initially<br />
sceptical: who could take a man<br />
in tights flying around, bouncing<br />
bullets off his chest seriously? But<br />
then he spent a few days at DC’s<br />
headquarters going through past<br />
adventures. A pair of young DC<br />
writers, one of whom was the<br />
renowned Elliot S. Maggin, then<br />
heavily involved with writing the<br />
character, guided him through the<br />
material and answered his questions<br />
– when, that was, they could<br />
see the portly Italian through the<br />
fug of Havana smoke.<br />
They explained that Kal-El was<br />
a refugee from a doomed world, an<br />
orphan condemned to be forever<br />
in love with a woman to whom he<br />
could not reveal his true identity.<br />
“Mario’s eyes began to light up,”<br />
Maggin remembered. “He said<br />
‘Wow, this is a great tragedy!’”<br />
Now understanding the heart of<br />
Eastwood,<br />
Redford and<br />
Muhammad<br />
Ali had been<br />
considered for<br />
the role of<br />
Superman<br />
the character, Puzo headed to his<br />
typewriter and started hammering<br />
out pages.<br />
For a director, the producers<br />
originally went to Guy Hamilton,<br />
veteran of the James Bond movies<br />
and thus someone used to handling<br />
vast, physically <strong>com</strong>plicated<br />
productions. But Hamilton had<br />
dropped out when the production<br />
shifted from Italy to England at<br />
the last minute, which is when<br />
Richard Donner got a call in<br />
Hollywood. It was his agent:<br />
“Boy have I got a great deal for<br />
you,” he said. It was not until<br />
later that he revealed that<br />
there was a mere 11 weeks to go until<br />
shooting started at Pinewood,<br />
and that the screenplay might<br />
need a <strong>com</strong>plete rewrite.<br />
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Donner immediately realised<br />
that casting Superman/Clark Kent<br />
was going to be key to the film’s<br />
success, and that the Salkinds’ aim<br />
of luring a big star for the role was<br />
all wrong. Robert Redford, Clint<br />
Eastwood, and even Muhammad<br />
Ali, had all been in the mix at one<br />
point or another. But Donner<br />
wasn’t interested. When audiences<br />
looked at the screen, he explained<br />
to the Salkinds, he wanted them<br />
to see Superman, not some big<br />
name playing Superman. Having<br />
already dropped nearly $4 million<br />
on Brando and another $2 million<br />
on Gene Hackman to play Lex<br />
Luthor, any objections from the<br />
bottom-line watching producers<br />
was muted.<br />
Thus legendary casting director<br />
Lynn Stalmaster was charged with<br />
finding a new<strong>com</strong>er. Christopher<br />
Reeve, a twenty-something stage<br />
actor based in New York didn’t at<br />
first impress Donner, who was looking<br />
for someone to play a 35-yearold.<br />
“He was on the young side, and<br />
skinny,” he remembered later.<br />
Finally, having found no one<br />
in the right age bracket, Donner<br />
decided to make the character<br />
younger, and Reeve persuaded him<br />
he could put on the necessary bulk.<br />
“I took a gamble,” he said. “But<br />
when I go back and look at those<br />
old stills of Chris, I tell you it was<br />
blind faith.”<br />
“That’s it?” yelled an incredulous<br />
Donner. “You mean that’s<br />
all!” He had been called to the 007<br />
soundstage, named after the superspy,<br />
and the largest in Europe, to<br />
examine the technology that would<br />
create many of the flying effects<br />
vital to the film’s success. In front<br />
of him a pair of beefy grips were<br />
yanking on a rope with all the grace<br />
of hod carriers on unpaid overtime.<br />
Above them, on a clearly visible<br />
wire, dangled a nervous-looking<br />
Christopher Reeve. The equipment<br />
was exactly the same kind that had<br />
been used for decades to whizz<br />
actors around the stage in Britain’s
yearly Christmas pantomimes, a<br />
fact that explained why, for the moment,<br />
Reeve, who had succeeded<br />
in piling on 30lbs of muscle, resembled<br />
neither a bird, nor a plane.<br />
Instead he looked like a steroidal<br />
Peter Pan.<br />
It was months since the<br />
Brando meeting, and the legendary<br />
thespian was long gone.<br />
In fact, he had turned out to be<br />
something of a joy to work with,<br />
despite the Salkinds and Donner<br />
fretting about whether the ten<br />
days he had been contracted for<br />
would be enough to get his scenes<br />
finished. (“It cost me money<br />
every time he went to the can,”<br />
Donner later recalled.) Since then<br />
the true, utterly terrifying scale of<br />
the project had be<strong>com</strong>e apparent.<br />
The Salkinds had determined that<br />
Donner would in fact shoot not<br />
one, but two movies, Superman<br />
and its sequel, simultaneously.<br />
Thus a morning’s shooting in<br />
the Fortress of Solitude set for the<br />
first movie would, after the set was<br />
redressed, and actors’ hairstyles<br />
and costumes subtly altered, be followed<br />
with an afternoon’s shooting<br />
for its sequel. Keeping track had<br />
be<strong>com</strong>e a nightmare. The budget<br />
was out of control, release dates<br />
had already been missed – and then<br />
there was the flying.<br />
“Nobody knew how to go about<br />
it,” Donner said. What’s more,<br />
there was no way of cheating the<br />
scenes by loading them with distracting<br />
special effects. “No lights<br />
shot out of his ass, and there was<br />
no noise to dazzle the audience’s<br />
senses, it’s just simply a guy flying.<br />
And boy was it difficult.”<br />
These days digital effects would<br />
easily have solved the problem. But<br />
in the mid-1970s, they were still<br />
years away. Donner and his team<br />
had investigated all manner of<br />
techniques for making Superman<br />
airborne. Skydiving had been proposed,<br />
and rejected, at one point, no<br />
doubt to Christopher Reeve’s relief.<br />
Stuntmen were swung from 300ft<br />
cranes behind vast scale models<br />
constructed on the Pinewood back<br />
lot; the ‘miniature’ Golden Gate<br />
Bridge alone was 60ft long.<br />
Rescue finally came in the shape<br />
of optical effects genius Zoran<br />
Perisic. After months of trials Perisic<br />
developed what he christened<br />
the Zoptic system, an insanely<br />
<strong>com</strong>plicated way of projecting a<br />
background plate behind Reeve,<br />
which allowed the camera to move<br />
around him in synchrony with the<br />
image. But the biggest challenge<br />
was what seemed during production<br />
meetings to have been a minor<br />
detail, something that no one had<br />
really thought about, Superman’s<br />
iconic red cape. “That cape was a<br />
pain!” Donner remembered. “We<br />
It had be<strong>com</strong>e<br />
a nightmare,<br />
the budget<br />
was out of<br />
control and<br />
release dates<br />
were missed<br />
spent months getting our first flying<br />
shot, and then something just<br />
didn’t look right about it. It was the<br />
cape, it didn’t move right. We tried<br />
everything, bottled air, electronics,<br />
finally someone came up with the<br />
idea of wiring the cape inside like<br />
an umbrella, which we could control<br />
with little gears. We had about<br />
50 different capes.”<br />
After five months, Donner could<br />
finally sign off on the first flying sequence.<br />
Finally at least he believed<br />
a man could fly.<br />
Meanwhile, relations between<br />
Donner and the Salkinds, whom<br />
Donner had begun openly referring<br />
to as “the idiots”, had all but<br />
broken down. What Donner saw<br />
as their continual interference and<br />
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inspired choice<br />
/ Reeve on<br />
set in the first<br />
Superman movie,<br />
which exceeded<br />
all expectations
inexperience, together with their<br />
reliance on Spengler, was be<strong>com</strong>ing<br />
intolerable.<br />
“They tried to fire me many,<br />
many times,” he said. “But by then<br />
Warner Brothers had gotten involved<br />
in the distribution and they<br />
had director approval. It was me,<br />
William Friedkin [director of The<br />
Exorcist] or Spielberg.”<br />
But if the Salkinds couldn’t<br />
fire Donner, they could hire<br />
whomever they wanted. Thus the<br />
harassed director was surprised,<br />
to say the least, when Richard<br />
Lester, a British director best known<br />
for helming the Beatles’ movies Help!<br />
and A Hard Day’s Night, turned up at<br />
Pinewood. Describing himself as a<br />
go-between between Donner, Spengler<br />
and the Salkinds, he was at pains<br />
to reassure the director that he was<br />
not there to replace him.<br />
“I didn’t trust him, and I told<br />
him so,” Donner said. He would<br />
have good reason for his qualms.<br />
Face oFF / Brandon<br />
Routh and George Reeves<br />
both played Superman<br />
with varying success<br />
Superman The Movie was finally<br />
released in time for Christmas<br />
1978 to almost universal critical<br />
acclaim and box-office glory. It finally<br />
grossed $132 million in the<br />
US alone. Donner had perfectly<br />
crystallised on film the delicate<br />
amalgam of romance, tragedy and<br />
action that had entranced fans ever<br />
since the 1930s. But as well as the<br />
box-office and critical plaudits,<br />
perhaps the best proof of Donner<br />
and Reeve’s singular achievement<br />
has been the apparent impossibility<br />
of recapturing its magic. Richard<br />
Lester’s sequel (Donner was indeed<br />
fired shortly after the film’s<br />
release), in which Terence Stamp<br />
chewed scenery as Kryptonian super<br />
villain General Zod, is perfectly<br />
acceptable, but the bulk of the film<br />
had, after all, been conceived and<br />
shot by Donner. But by the third<br />
film the air of verisimilitude and<br />
carefully nurtured character-based<br />
romance had all but vanished, be-<br />
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Superman IV<br />
was a disaster,<br />
a mixture of<br />
Cold War<br />
posturing<br />
and terrible<br />
set pieces<br />
ing replaced by a crass, broad-brush<br />
zaniness, primarily in the unwel<strong>com</strong>e<br />
shape of Richard Pryor, the<br />
fading stand-up <strong>com</strong>edian whose<br />
performance was not improved<br />
by his prodigiously indulged drug<br />
habit.<br />
Then there is Superman IV: The<br />
Quest For Peace. After the critical<br />
failure of Superman III the Salkinds<br />
offloaded the rights to the character<br />
to Cannon Films, an Israeli<br />
production <strong>com</strong>pany notorious for
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The huge<br />
success of<br />
the Batman<br />
reboot paved<br />
the way for<br />
Zack Synder’s<br />
version of The<br />
Man of Steel<br />
cutting budgets and corners. Lured<br />
back by a pay offer of $4 million<br />
(the most he had ever received),<br />
Reeve also demanded script input,<br />
and unwisely transformed the film<br />
into a kind of po-faced lecture on<br />
the evils of the Cold War. He also<br />
introduced the series’ most forgettable<br />
villain, Nuclear Man, played<br />
by ex-Chippendale stripper and oil<br />
rig worker Mark Pillow, whose career,<br />
sadly, progressed no further.<br />
After the catastrophic performance<br />
of The Quest For Peace<br />
subsequent attempts to revive the<br />
character all fizzled. In the mid-<br />
1990s, Kevin Smith, slacker darling<br />
of Clerks fame, was hired to write<br />
a screenplay titled Superman Lives,<br />
in which Ka-El, played by Nicolas<br />
Cage, would wear an all-black suit,<br />
be unable to fly and battle a giant<br />
spider. That screenplay hit the<br />
shredder once Tim Burton came<br />
on board to direct, and finally the<br />
whole project was abandoned over<br />
spiralling costs. Superman, Flyby<br />
was Lost creator J.J. Abrams attempt<br />
to relaunch the franchise,<br />
which itself was rapidly replaced<br />
by Superman vs Batman, an idea<br />
that seemed to have more to do<br />
with the dollar signs spinning in the<br />
merchandising managers’ eyes than<br />
anything else. It in turn was ditched<br />
when the studio resurrected Flyby<br />
after Abrams submitted a new script<br />
the studio liked better.<br />
But in 2006 Bryan Singer,<br />
who had earned both critical acclaim<br />
for The Usual Suspects and<br />
fanboy devotion for his X-Men<br />
films finally managed to get a Superman<br />
movie onto the screen.<br />
Superman Returns with Brandon<br />
Routh super-suited and booted<br />
was a modest hit, and recreated a<br />
little of the romantic atmosphere<br />
and unapologetic optimism of<br />
Donner’s classic, but it never quite<br />
77<br />
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Pretender<br />
/ British actor<br />
Henry Cavill<br />
will hope he can<br />
follow Christian<br />
Bale’s portrayal<br />
of Batman<br />
captured the public imagination,<br />
or its wallet, in the way Singer had<br />
hoped. Plans for a sequel were put<br />
on indefinite hold.<br />
But the astonishing success of<br />
Christopher Nolan’s Batman movies<br />
– the final film in the trilogy, The<br />
Dark Knight Rises, earned Warner<br />
Bros an astonishing $1 billion – together<br />
with the studio’s immediate<br />
need to launch another superhero<br />
franchise, now that the Caped Crusader<br />
has hung up his cowl, probably<br />
explains the fact that Zack Snyder’s<br />
Man Of Steel, due for worldwide<br />
release this month – with British<br />
actor Henry Cavill in the title role –<br />
has had a much smoother run than<br />
any previous attempt. Plot details<br />
are scarce, though the villain of the<br />
piece is General Zod, played by Michael<br />
Shannon, and early trailers<br />
point to an origins story with Clark<br />
Kent discovering his powers while<br />
being pursued around the world<br />
by feisty reporter Lois Lane (Amy<br />
Adams). Only time will tell whether,<br />
as a generation did a quarter of a<br />
century ago, we’ll once again believe<br />
a man can fly.<br />
Adam Smith is a senior writer for<br />
Empire Magazine in London
Skyward Bound<br />
David Scowsill is a man on a mission – to explain to world<br />
leaders the benefits of tourism. Noah Davis talks to the<br />
President and CEO of the World Travel & Tourism Council about<br />
travel, economics, and the importance of tourism<br />
David Scowsill<br />
spends much<br />
of his time<br />
doing what<br />
he does best:<br />
travelling. The<br />
University of<br />
Southampton educated executive<br />
spends his days, like many highpowered<br />
businessmen and women<br />
in the Internet Age, jetting around<br />
the world, bouncing from Britain<br />
to Rio de Janeiro to Dubai to New<br />
York City and back again. “It’s too<br />
much, about three weeks a month,”<br />
he says with a laugh as he sits in a<br />
flat that looks as if it gets little use.<br />
We are talking via Skype, stealing a<br />
few moments in his busy schedule.<br />
Scowsill has just returned from a<br />
meeting in Hanover, Germany and<br />
needs to leave for London soon but<br />
takes the time to chat about travel.<br />
This is what he does.<br />
As president and CEO of the<br />
World Travel & Tourism Council<br />
(WTTC), Scowsill oversees an organisation<br />
responsible for reminding<br />
countries about the massive<br />
economic benefits of allowing easy<br />
access to visitors. He is the fourth<br />
CEO in the group’s 23-year history<br />
and a man with a long history<br />
in all areas of the industry. In his<br />
current position, he is responsible<br />
for turning the thoughts, hopes<br />
and dreams of over 100 CEOs and<br />
chairman including Wyndham<br />
Worldwide’s Stephen P. Homes,<br />
The Travel Corporation’s Brett<br />
Tolman, and American Express’<br />
William Glenn into a coherent<br />
strategy that advocates for tourism<br />
and travel. Gary Chapman, President<br />
Group Services & dnata at the<br />
<strong>Emirates</strong> Group, serves on the Ex-<br />
78<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
ecutive Committee. Membership<br />
of the WTTC is by invitation only.<br />
Recently, his mission has included<br />
directly lobbying some of<br />
the most powerful people in the<br />
world. In conjunction with the<br />
United Nations World Travel Organisation<br />
(UNWTO), the WTTC<br />
developed the Global Leaders for<br />
Tourism Campaign. Scowsill and<br />
UNWTO secretary-general Taleb<br />
Rifai, representing the private and<br />
public sectors, respectively, are<br />
on a nearly non-stop trip. “We go<br />
on the road to talk to presidents<br />
and prime minsters directly about<br />
the impact of the industry. We<br />
have to get through to the heads<br />
of state to make significant things<br />
happen about visas, taxation, air<br />
traffic control, and other issues,”<br />
Scowsill says. “We lecture them<br />
politely about four or five things
they need to understand, which<br />
could be anything from bilateral<br />
visa agreements and open skies to<br />
investment in hotels or whatever<br />
the cruise lines need. We give lots<br />
of very, very specific messages.”<br />
They also inform world leaders<br />
about some fun facts. “The<br />
prime minister of Japan was really<br />
shocked to understand that the<br />
travel and tourism industry was<br />
much bigger than the automotive<br />
industry,” Scowsill says.<br />
So far, the pair has met with<br />
48 heads of state. Sometimes the<br />
change they lobby for <strong>com</strong>es nearly<br />
instantaneously. “We went to see<br />
the King of Jordan,” Scowsill says.<br />
“Before we started talking to him,<br />
he said ‘I know what you’ve <strong>com</strong>e<br />
to talk to me about. It’s my tax,<br />
my visas, isn’t it?’ We said, ‘yes,<br />
Your Highness.’ After 30 minutes<br />
with him, he sent us directly to<br />
see the finance minster who was<br />
just about to double the sales tax<br />
from 8 percent to 16 per cent. We<br />
stopped him from doing it. We<br />
asked for some time to prove to<br />
him through statistical modelling<br />
that it would hurt the economy.”<br />
The group did. The WTTC<br />
holds that there are massive,<br />
far-reaching economic benefits<br />
to travel and tourism, and its research<br />
supports those claims.<br />
According to a WTTC study, the<br />
industry directly contributed $2<br />
trillion to the world’s GDP in 2011<br />
and 100 million jobs in 2012. When<br />
more indirect measures are taken<br />
into account, those figures jump to<br />
$6.5 trillion and 260 million jobs.<br />
And there are no signs of slowing<br />
down. In a decade, WTTC predicts<br />
travel and tourism will represent<br />
$10.5 trillion – roughly 10<br />
per cent of global GDP – and one<br />
in 10 jobs. Additionally, according<br />
to another study, more than<br />
three billion people will qualify as<br />
middle class by 2050, dramatically<br />
increasing the potential amount of<br />
money that can be spent on travel<br />
and tourism.<br />
Tourism<br />
contributed<br />
more than $2<br />
trillion to the<br />
global economy<br />
in 2011<br />
At a recent G20 summit, world<br />
leaders agreed with WTTC’s<br />
thesis, formally recognising the<br />
ability of travel and tourism to<br />
drive jobs, growth and economic<br />
recovery. In the 25th point of a<br />
85-point Leaders’ Declaration,<br />
79<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
the group wrote, “We recognise<br />
the role of travel and tourism as a<br />
vehicle for job creation, economic<br />
growth and development, and,<br />
while recognising the sovereign<br />
right of states to control the entry<br />
of foreign nationals, we will work<br />
towards developing travel facilitation<br />
initiatives in support of job<br />
creation, quality work, poverty reduction<br />
and global growth.”<br />
The existence of WTTC may<br />
seem unnecessary – doesn’t travel<br />
and tourism simply carry on? – but<br />
Scowsill agues that the efforts of<br />
his group are vital. “Travel and<br />
tourism is taken for granted, particularly<br />
by the US and Europe.<br />
The politicians only wake up<br />
and pay attention when there is<br />
hot seat / Scowsill<br />
travels the world<br />
informing leaders of<br />
the importance of<br />
tourism
a disaster, like 9/11, a SARS epidemic<br />
or an ash cloud in Europe.<br />
Suddenly, everything stops. The<br />
hotels are empty. The planes<br />
aren’t flying,” he says. One of the<br />
WTTC’s major goals is to facilitate<br />
the ease of travel for all citizens of<br />
the world. Scowsill addressed the<br />
issue in his closing speech at the<br />
recently <strong>com</strong>pleted 13th Annual<br />
Global Summit in Abu Dhabi. “Too<br />
many people still find it too <strong>com</strong>plex<br />
and too difficult to cross borders<br />
as international tourists. Governments<br />
need to balance security<br />
needs with a change in mindset<br />
and implement visa waiver and<br />
trusted traveller programmes,” he<br />
said. “The travel and tourism industry<br />
needs to continue to lobby<br />
for change and demonstrate to individual<br />
countries the economic<br />
opportunities, which will be generated,<br />
through improvements to<br />
visa processes.”<br />
He continued about the importance<br />
of open travel regulations, saying<br />
that “WTTC will develop finance<br />
models over the next 12 months that<br />
will demonstrate, country by country,<br />
the negative economic impact<br />
on travel and tourism of punitive<br />
taxation on travellers.<br />
China looks<br />
set to overtake<br />
the US<br />
as the largest<br />
tourism economy<br />
by the<br />
end of <strong>2013</strong><br />
This data will be used to show<br />
government leaders that taxing<br />
the tourist does not lead to positive<br />
economic growth – in fact, it<br />
leads to the opposite.”<br />
The conference also touched on<br />
another important theme for the<br />
WTTC: sustainability. “Tourism for<br />
Tomorrow is how we summarise<br />
our concerns for the future of the<br />
travel and tourism sector, and how<br />
we act to ensure our children, and<br />
our childrens’ children have the<br />
ability to have their lives enriched<br />
by the ability to travel and understand<br />
the world,” the group’s website<br />
says. To that end, actress Daryl<br />
Hannah and environmentalist Sir<br />
Jonathon Porritt, spoke about sus-<br />
80<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
tainability at the <strong>2013</strong> Summit.<br />
The WTTC isn’t afraid to use<br />
its reach and access to show off a<br />
little star power, either. Bill Clinton,<br />
42nd President of the United<br />
States and the founder of the William<br />
J. Clinton Foundation, keynoted<br />
the event, speaking about<br />
leadership and the industry’s<br />
place in the world. He wowed the<br />
audience with his trademark genial<br />
manner and with a few shocking<br />
facts, including that the total<br />
weight of humans on earth is less<br />
than the total weight of ants.<br />
The issue of sustainability and<br />
travel is one for the entire sector to<br />
tackle collectively, and the WTTC<br />
wants to lead the way. “The industry<br />
needs to work together to<br />
drive investment in infrastructure,<br />
which is conducive to sustainable<br />
growth, not just now, but for the<br />
next 10, 25, even 50 years in order<br />
to ensure that travel and tourism<br />
continues to make a vital economic<br />
contribution to global GDP<br />
and jobs and that the new wave<br />
of middle class consumers from<br />
emerging markets can cross borders<br />
with ease,” Scowsill said in his<br />
closing speech.<br />
Much of the growth in the<br />
<strong>com</strong>ing years will <strong>com</strong>e from the<br />
exploding economies in Asia,<br />
with China overtaking the United<br />
States as the largest travel and<br />
tourism economy by the end of<br />
<strong>2013</strong>, according to WTTC projections.<br />
Two-thirds of the 70 million<br />
jobs added in the next decade will<br />
<strong>com</strong>e in Asia.<br />
With that in mind, the WTTC<br />
will continue to focus on the East.<br />
In September, the organisation will<br />
host a Pan-Asian summit in Seoul.<br />
Sanya, a prefectural level city in<br />
southern China will host the 2014<br />
summit. The locations mean more<br />
long flights for Scowsill and his<br />
associates. Of course, he wouldn’t<br />
have it any other way<br />
Noah Davis is a writer based in<br />
Brooklyn, New York
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BOLD.SMOOTH.CLASSIC.<br />
SPECIAL EDITION<br />
TENNESSEE WHISKEY
PROFILE<br />
The ArT<br />
AT The heArT<br />
Of NOrmAN fOsTer
Norman Foster is an architectural<br />
giant, but ahead of an exhibition of<br />
his favourite artworks, Jay Merrick<br />
discovers that the great man has<br />
more than one passion
Norman Foster is, arguably,<br />
the world’s most<br />
famous living architect.<br />
A graduate of the University<br />
Of Manchester School Of<br />
Architecture, Foster is the creative<br />
brain behind Foster + Partners, the<br />
architectural firm responsible for<br />
designing buildings such as Hearst<br />
Tower in New York, the restored<br />
Reichstag in Berlin, Wembley Stadium<br />
in London and the Carrée de<br />
l’Art in Nîmes, France.<br />
It is in the last of those iconic<br />
buildings – designed by Foster 20<br />
years ago – that the architect will<br />
indulge his other, lesser–known<br />
passion this summer, with an exhibition<br />
of more than 100 artworks in<br />
25 spaces.<br />
The 78-year-old has always been<br />
obsessively detail-conscious, so<br />
it’s no surprise to learn that he not<br />
only selected the art for the show,<br />
but also designed every vitrine and<br />
pedestal, and supervised the positioning<br />
of each artwork. He was<br />
still sketching and planning the final<br />
details when I visited him at his<br />
London studio three weeks before<br />
the opening.<br />
His gallery plans were in a slim<br />
charcoal grey box-folder. “I carry this<br />
case with me, which has all the stuff<br />
for the show,” he says. “I’m drawing<br />
everything to scale, fiddling with the<br />
artworks on the room plans, working<br />
out the visual links.”<br />
There is something unique<br />
about this show. Foster’s selection<br />
of artworks has, for the first<br />
time, exposed what this famously<br />
private architect thinks and feels,<br />
deep down, about art and the creative<br />
processes. Those who fly into<br />
the new airport at Amman, or visit<br />
the zero-carbon city of Masdar in<br />
the UAE, experience Foster in his<br />
familiar technocratic architectural<br />
mode. In Nîmes, we find a very different<br />
mind at work.<br />
The title of the show – which<br />
has more than 100 artworks in 25<br />
spaces – is Moving. Not surprising,<br />
given Foster’s love affair with aircraft<br />
and flying. As a boy, growing<br />
up in working-class Manchester,<br />
his early inspiration took the form<br />
84<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
of Dan Dare <strong>com</strong>ics. By the 1980s,<br />
the architectural world’s superstar<br />
was flying his own aircraft and declaring<br />
that the Boeing 747 was one<br />
of the ultimate design icons.<br />
But the most interesting word<br />
that the architect uses to describe<br />
many of the artworks on show in<br />
Nîmes is emotion – not a term that<br />
could have been easily applied to<br />
Norman Foster before 1990.<br />
In those days he was perceived<br />
solely as an extraordinarily successful<br />
architect whose genius had<br />
<strong>com</strong>e through in buildings such<br />
as the Willis Faber office in 1974,<br />
the Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank<br />
Headquarters in 1986 and Stansted<br />
Airport in 1991. He duly gained an<br />
aura of corporatised ambition and<br />
became the unrivalled go-to architect<br />
for the big beasts of the corporate<br />
world.<br />
Foster’s interest in art tells a different<br />
story. It began in 1963 when<br />
he bought his first artwork, a Con-<br />
Can the world’s<br />
most famous<br />
arChiteCt Curate<br />
a major art<br />
show?<br />
structivist piece by Simon Nicholson.<br />
Four years later, when he<br />
opened his first practice in London’s<br />
Covent Garden in 1967, he hung a<br />
Marc Vaux canvas in the reception.<br />
Art had already made an imprint<br />
on him at Yale, where he studied<br />
for his postgraduate degree. At the<br />
time, the school of architecture was<br />
on the top floor of the Yale Art Gallery,<br />
and day after day, the young<br />
Foster would enter through the<br />
lobby to take the elevator.<br />
“In the background, I can still<br />
recall the Sunflowers of Vincent van<br />
Gogh. The college backed onto the
MASTER AT<br />
WORK / Norman<br />
Foster and some<br />
his creations in<br />
Berlin, London,<br />
New York and<br />
Hong Kong<br />
gallery courtyard, and I can also<br />
remember a Henry Moore sculpture<br />
there.”<br />
When Foster returned from<br />
America in the early 1960s, he<br />
was a frequent visitor to London’s<br />
Whitechapel Art Gallery, which<br />
mounted exhibitions of the more<br />
progressive artists of the time, under<br />
its director, Bryan Robertson.<br />
“One of the Whitechapel shows<br />
was devoted to David Hockney,<br />
who impressed me greatly,” recalls<br />
Foster. “I have always been<br />
interested in the way that artists<br />
and photographers can chronicle<br />
the spirit of a time and place.”<br />
In the 1960s, Hockney’s paintings, A<br />
Bigger Splash and Man In A Shower,<br />
made an impact on him, as did<br />
Michael Andrews’ All Night Long<br />
and The Deer Park. By stark contrast,<br />
LS Lowry’s portrayals of working<br />
towns in the north of England – and<br />
their “stick people” – also meant a<br />
great deal to the architect.<br />
Art has became a <strong>com</strong>pulsive<br />
part of Norman Foster’s life since his<br />
marriage, in 1996, to Elena Ochoa,<br />
who holds positions in the art and<br />
publishing worlds. The fi rst artwork<br />
that they bought together was Andy<br />
Warhol’s big canvas, Lenin, in 1995.<br />
And nowadays, they even collaborate<br />
on objets d’art together:<br />
Elena Foster’s Ivorypress publishing<br />
house produced a limited edition<br />
book of photographs of the<br />
Foster-designed Beijing airport,<br />
containing interviews with the architect<br />
and the superstar Chinese<br />
artist Ai Wei Wei.<br />
“My wife and I live with art,” explains<br />
Foster. “It refl ects our tastes,<br />
our intuitions, so we also have work<br />
by relatively unknown artists –<br />
mostly abstract, in the pure sense,<br />
or abstractions of the human fi gure.<br />
Abstraction is associated with<br />
the birth of modernism, but it goes<br />
back 23,000 years to primitive art.<br />
Abstraction is in the long tradition<br />
of <strong>com</strong>munication.”<br />
“The only reason Elena and I<br />
would acquire an artwork is if it<br />
moves us emotionally or intellectu-<br />
85<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong>
THERE IS A KIND OF SELF-<br />
CONFIRMATION IN HIS APPROVAL<br />
OF CREATIVE LONERS<br />
ally.” And he freely admits: “I don’t<br />
feel able to judge or criticise art.”<br />
It was never the Fosters intention<br />
to create a personal art collection –<br />
indeed, they’re un<strong>com</strong>fortable with<br />
that word. Before they met, they<br />
only displayed the occasional painting<br />
or sculpture, mostly by artist<br />
friends. The difference now, says<br />
Foster, is that their various homes<br />
are saturated – his word, by the way<br />
– with the work of diverse artists<br />
across several generations.<br />
There are signifi cant artworks in<br />
virtually every room of their homes<br />
in Switzerland, Madrid, New York<br />
and Martha’s Vineyard.<br />
If Foster has a favourite artist,<br />
it’s probably Richard Long: there’s<br />
a huge Long artwork in the architect’s<br />
London apartment. “I think<br />
Richard’s work touches something<br />
that’s very diffi cult to explain,” Foster<br />
once told me. “If one is moved<br />
by extraordinary abstractions of<br />
nature, the forces of nature, you<br />
then go back to the so-called primitive<br />
societies.<br />
“I can’t defi ne it or rationalise it,<br />
but Richard Long is practicing in<br />
the tradition of anonymous artists.”<br />
Long’s 21m high mural in the Foster-designed<br />
Hearst headquarters in<br />
New York is <strong>com</strong>posed of thousands<br />
of his individually applied muddy<br />
handprints. Everything Long does<br />
requires a great deal of time and solitary,<br />
detailed physical effort. There<br />
is something utterly obsessional<br />
about his processes. Foster is surely<br />
cut from the same cloth.<br />
He likes working with artists,<br />
and <strong>com</strong>missioning artworks for<br />
his buildings. The Al Faisaliah<br />
MOVING ON UP /<br />
Foster’s attention to<br />
detail was evident in<br />
the hours he put in to<br />
create his first art show<br />
87<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
Complex in Riyadh, for example;<br />
the Chesa Futura, Zurich; and the<br />
Reichstag in Berlin, which features<br />
the work of major artists such as<br />
Sigmar Polke, Georg Baselitz, Joseph<br />
Beuys and Gerhard Richter.<br />
Foster’s involvement is always<br />
thorough. “If I go through the list<br />
of artists for the Reichstag, I was<br />
personally involved with very<br />
nearly all of them – in their studies<br />
and their works. Gerhard Richter,<br />
for example. I understand him, and<br />
we helped him with the glass technology.<br />
The strategy of his piece,<br />
the placement, was the subject of<br />
strenuous discussions in his studio.<br />
“With Polke, Elena and I visited<br />
him, and he said: ‘I have two ideas<br />
– this one, and another one that<br />
would use the <strong>com</strong>mercial technology<br />
of advertising.’ I said the<br />
second idea was far more exciting.<br />
And he literally jumped up and<br />
down through 360 degrees, shouting:<br />
‘That’s what I wanted to hear.<br />
Fantastic! Fantastic!’”<br />
And so, Foster has learned not<br />
only from art, but from the behaviour<br />
of artists. There’s a kind of<br />
self-confi rmation in his approval<br />
of creative loners. Loners with fl ying<br />
gloves and goggles on, in Foster’s<br />
case.<br />
He says something revealing<br />
about a key piece in the Nîmes show,<br />
a 1913 Futurist sculpture by Umberto<br />
Boccioni: “A stunningly beautiful<br />
<strong>com</strong>position, the start of the streamlined<br />
age.” And in a recent interview<br />
with the Carré d’art’s director,<br />
Jean-Marc Prévost, he confesses<br />
that when he fi rst encountered the<br />
sculpture, “it literally stopped me in<br />
my tracks, and my pulse quickened.<br />
Years later, it still has the same power<br />
to move my spirits.<br />
Foster is intrigued by the link<br />
between “moving” in the emotional<br />
sense, and physically moving<br />
through space. No wonder he considers<br />
Constantin Brancusi’s sinuous<br />
L’Oiseau dans l’espace – Bird in<br />
Space – to be one of the most beautiful<br />
objects in the world. Imagine
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Constantin Brancusi, Fernand<br />
Léger and Marcel Duchamp<br />
strolling around the aircraft at<br />
the Paris air show in 1912. Duchamp<br />
points to the front of one of<br />
them and says: ‘Painting is over<br />
and done with. Who could do<br />
anything better than this propeller?<br />
Look! Could you do that?’”<br />
Not surprisingly, one of Foster’s<br />
most prized possessions is<br />
the blade of a propeller from a<br />
50-year-old Douglas DC3: “The<br />
blade has an identical scale to<br />
one of Brancusi’s birds, and there<br />
is the same <strong>com</strong>mon denominator<br />
of refl ective surfaces and<br />
curved planes.<br />
“Without getting too carried<br />
away by the fact that one is an<br />
industrial artefact and the other<br />
is a hallowed cultural relic, there<br />
is still a pleasurable intellectual<br />
link between them,” he says.<br />
“Every time I see this propeller<br />
I feel the same thrill that Duchamp<br />
must have felt when he<br />
contemplated an earlier version at<br />
the beginning of the last century.”<br />
The idea of fl ight is deeply<br />
rooted in Foster’s character. “At a<br />
time when I fl ew racing sailplanes,”<br />
he told Jean-Marc Prévost, “I gave a<br />
talk at the University of East Anglia<br />
on the occasion of the launch of our<br />
design for the Sainsbury Centre for<br />
Visual Arts. To make a point about<br />
sustainability and beauty, I fi nished<br />
with the image of a Caproni Calif<br />
two-seater glider.<br />
“I had recently fl own a<br />
cross-country fl ight with another<br />
pilot in this craft, which set a new<br />
UK glider speed record, so I extolled<br />
its virtues as a solar-powered<br />
vehicle. I remember my fi nal<br />
words: I pronounced it to be more<br />
beautiful than a Brancusi. Sailplanes<br />
are indeed stunning to behold<br />
– but L’Oiseau dans l’espace is<br />
even more beautiful.”<br />
But even the way Foster talks<br />
about fl ying illustrates his deep interest<br />
in pattern and order – control,<br />
if you like. “A fl ight in a sailplane is<br />
ONE OF HIS MOST<br />
PRIZED OBJECTS<br />
IS THE PROPELLOR<br />
BLADE FROM A<br />
DOUGLAS DC3<br />
a series of high-speed descents,<br />
each followed by a spiralling climb<br />
in rising currents of air,” he says.<br />
“Typically, the summits of these invisible<br />
paths of energy are marked<br />
by billowy cumulus clouds, white<br />
against the sky. When these overdevelop<br />
they are transformed into<br />
thunderclouds which, in their extreme<br />
form, can exert forces strong<br />
enough to tear apart an airliner.<br />
“The glider pilot develops a<br />
close association with cloud formations<br />
because they are central<br />
to any fl ight. For example, high-al-<br />
89<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
STRUCTURED /<br />
Foster’s iconic buildings<br />
have been <strong>com</strong>pared to<br />
works of art<br />
titude fl ying in a sailplane is often<br />
a quest for the saucer-shaped lenticular<br />
formations which mark the<br />
rising air in the lee of mountain<br />
ranges.” In other words, he sees nature<br />
as <strong>com</strong>plicated challenge that<br />
can be solved.<br />
Not surprisingly, he has found<br />
a way to emphasise his aerial<br />
notions in the Nîmes exhibition.<br />
One of the younger artists on<br />
show is Iñigo Manglano-Ovalle,<br />
who has created cloud sculptures,<br />
generated from weather data. The<br />
sculptures are initially created<br />
in fi breglass, then surfaced with<br />
shiny titanium foil.<br />
”They freeze for eternity these<br />
most transient and beautiful of natural<br />
forms,” says Foster, “from the<br />
awesome and threatening bulk of<br />
a cumulonimbus thundercloud to<br />
the spectacular slimness of a lenticular<br />
cloud, which could pass for<br />
a fl ying saucer from outer space. If<br />
one did not know the meteorological<br />
sources for these beautifully<br />
shaped objects, it would be reason-
able to assume that they were masterly<br />
works of abstract art – which,<br />
in a sense, they are.”<br />
But he also sees these artworks<br />
as an alarm call for the environmental<br />
threats to the planet.<br />
“His installations confront unexplained<br />
plights suffered by birds<br />
and bees, the possibilities of collisions<br />
with asteroids and the melting<br />
of icecaps.”<br />
Foster’s environmental concerns<br />
are genuine, and go back<br />
forty years, though there has been<br />
some criticism of his high tech approach<br />
to environmental design,<br />
not least in the recently published<br />
book, Cities Are Good For You, by<br />
the historian, Leo Hollis.<br />
Nevertheless, massive eco-projects<br />
like Masdar simply strengthen<br />
Foster’s profi le, and the range of art<br />
on show at Nîmes refl ects his huge<br />
infl uence – and the fact that what<br />
Norman wants, Norman usually<br />
gets: the exhibition features work<br />
by a raft of big-name artists, including<br />
Turner, Ai Wei Wei, Hockney,<br />
Lewitt, Rothko and Serra. And<br />
there will be new, specially <strong>com</strong>missioned<br />
pieces by Bill Fontana,<br />
Olafur Eliasson and Nuno Ramos.<br />
“But out of the 57 artists,” he<br />
emphasises, “less than a third are<br />
names you would know. But they<br />
THE COLLECTOR /<br />
Foster and one of his<br />
favourite paintings, All<br />
Night Long, by Michael<br />
Andrews<br />
are extraordinary talents.”<br />
And some of them trigger surprising<br />
remarks. Foster singles out<br />
a work by Miguel Angel Rios.<br />
“It’s a video called Love.<br />
He uses spinning tops. They pirouette<br />
around each other. They<br />
touch, they kiss. It’s operatic, it’s<br />
Shakespearian. In another sense,<br />
it’s abstract.”<br />
Foster didn’t speak in this manner,<br />
for publication, ten or fi fteen<br />
years ago. Now, of course, his own<br />
legend and trajectory have be<strong>com</strong>e<br />
rather like a 21st century opera.<br />
And he’s re-tailored his own legend,<br />
too: the man originally seen only in<br />
black has be<strong>com</strong>e safely bohemian –<br />
his pink corduroy suit, fi rst donned<br />
about seven years ago, was an early<br />
marker of a more expressive personal<br />
change; the idea of Foster as a<br />
brilliant, but vaguely robotic architect<br />
began to evaporate.<br />
Yet the great conundrum about<br />
Foster the architect and Foster the<br />
art lover is that they seem to remain<br />
very separate beings: it’s hard<br />
to detect a link between his rational<br />
and emotional modes; his buildings<br />
are invariably essays in streamlined<br />
hyper-effi ciency, while his tastes in<br />
art include works that are brutally<br />
abstract, or ambiguous.<br />
Is art a kind of expressive emo-<br />
91<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
FOSTER IS ABLE TO<br />
LEAD THE DOUBLE<br />
LIFE OF A RATIONAL<br />
ARCHITECT AND AN<br />
INTRIGUED ART FAN<br />
tional therapy for the world’s most<br />
intensely driven architect? Ultimately,<br />
Norman Foster seems to<br />
be a man perfectly able to lead the<br />
double-life of hyper-rational architect,<br />
and happily intrigued artbuyer.<br />
It’s obvious, for example,<br />
that he got as much of a kick out of<br />
organising the functional detail of<br />
the Nîmes show, as he did picking<br />
the art.<br />
“Curating the show was absolutely<br />
a process,” he told me,<br />
having put the whole event together,<br />
more or less single-handedly,<br />
in about four months.<br />
“I usually worked on it very early<br />
in the morning, or late at night, or<br />
in taxis.”<br />
The man who has designed<br />
nearly 20 galleries and museums<br />
all over the world – the latest is the<br />
extended Lenbachhaus Museum in<br />
Munich – allows himself an ironic<br />
smile: “I’ve learned a lot about galleries!”<br />
Which means that those<br />
who fi nd themselves at the Carrée<br />
de l’Art in Nîmes this summer are<br />
going to learn a lot about Norman<br />
Foster – the world’s most promising<br />
trainee art curator.<br />
Moving, Norman Foster on Art,<br />
Carré de l’Art Museum of Contemporary<br />
Art, Nîmes, France, until<br />
September 15th.
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BRIEFING<br />
105<br />
SWEDE START<br />
A new route is<br />
announced to the<br />
picturesque city of<br />
Stockholm<br />
108<br />
GREEN SUITS<br />
A new<br />
environmentallyfriendly<br />
clothes<br />
brand launched<br />
114<br />
ROUTE MAP<br />
Discover<br />
the world as<br />
connected by<br />
<strong>Emirates</strong><br />
Served Up<br />
<strong>Emirates</strong> announces<br />
new partnership with<br />
the French <strong>Open</strong><br />
(106)
EXPERTISE YOU<br />
CAN TRUST.<br />
Mediclinic City Hospital<br />
T +971 4 435 9999<br />
cityhospital@mediclinic.ae<br />
Mediclinic Dubai Mall<br />
T +971 4 449 5111<br />
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Mediclinic Ibn Battuta<br />
T +971 4 440 9000<br />
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T +971 4 453 4020<br />
arabianranches@mediclinic.ae<br />
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T +971 4 282 7788<br />
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T +971 4 288 1302<br />
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T +971 4 453 4040<br />
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Simply Stockholm<br />
As <strong>Emirates</strong> starts operating daily flights to Stockholm from September 4th,<br />
we pick out five must-visit places in the Swedish capital<br />
01 Gamla Stan<br />
Stockholm was founded on this<br />
small island that bisects the city in<br />
1252. The quaint and multicoloured<br />
streets of Gamla Stan are home to<br />
one of Europe’s largest and bestpreserved<br />
medieval city centres.<br />
Picturesque and tourist heavy, it is<br />
one place not to miss.<br />
02 Moderna Museet<br />
Located on the island of<br />
Skeppsholmen, a short ferry trip<br />
separates the Museum of Modern<br />
Art and Architecture from the rest<br />
of Stockholm. The architectural<br />
museum is one of the world’s largest<br />
and houses works from Dali, Picasso<br />
Matisse and Rauschenberg. In 1993<br />
it was the scene of an infamous<br />
burglary in which $66 million<br />
worth of Picasso and Braque<br />
works were taken.<br />
03 SkyView<br />
A new kind of observation deck,<br />
SkyView is Stockholm’s answer<br />
to the London Eye. Sat 130 metres<br />
atop the Ericsson Globe it offers<br />
fantastic views across the entire<br />
city. The two SkyView gondolas<br />
depart every 10 minutes and take<br />
about half an hour, so book ahead.<br />
Perfect timing<br />
Don’t miss your next <strong>Emirates</strong> flight.<br />
Make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.<br />
Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and<br />
gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you<br />
report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.<br />
Thank you for your cooperation.<br />
04 Vasa Museum<br />
Back in 1628 a 69-metre long<br />
warship, the Vasa, sank on its<br />
maiden voyage right in the middle<br />
of Stockholm. Painstakingly<br />
salvaged 333 years later in 1961,<br />
the ship has now been restored<br />
with 95 per cent of its original<br />
form on display at the Vasa<br />
Museum where it is decorated with<br />
hundreds of carved sculptures.<br />
105<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong><br />
NEWS<br />
05 Södermalm Nightlife<br />
Over the past couple of decades<br />
the Swedish capital has emerged<br />
as one of Europe’s coolest cities.<br />
Evidence of this is the bohemian<br />
Södermalm area of the city, home<br />
to a pumping nightlife and a<br />
trendy bar and café culture. Prices<br />
are steep however, so make sure to<br />
bring a full wallet.
BE INSPIRED<br />
LOOKING TO TAKE the concept of personalised service<br />
even further, <strong>Emirates</strong> has launched a new online<br />
feature that will inspire travellers looking to plan their<br />
next break.<br />
The Inspire Me feature on <strong>Emirates</strong>.<strong>com</strong> centres<br />
around a new globe-spanning interactive route map<br />
that allows passengers to choose their next holiday by<br />
factoring in price, fl ying time from origin and even by<br />
climate preference.<br />
106<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
GAME, SET AND MATCH<br />
AS THE WORLD’S elite tennis players <strong>com</strong>pete for the<br />
year’s second Grand Slam at the French <strong>Open</strong> this month,<br />
<strong>Emirates</strong> has a smash of its own, announcing a fi ve-year<br />
agreement to be an offi cial partner of the Roland Garros<br />
tournament, which runs until <strong>June</strong> 9.<br />
<strong>Emirates</strong> is not new to world-class tennis events, being<br />
the Offi cial Airline of the ATP World Tour, ATP World<br />
Tour Finals and sponsor of the <strong>Emirates</strong> ATP rankings.<br />
<strong>Emirates</strong> also sponsors the <strong>Emirates</strong> Airline US <strong>Open</strong><br />
Series, including the US <strong>Open</strong> and several stops on the<br />
ATP Tour, including most recently both the Italian and<br />
Barcelona <strong>Open</strong>s.<br />
The deal seems appropriate with the French <strong>Open</strong><br />
named after famed French aviation pioneer and tennis<br />
supporter, Roland Garros.<br />
<strong>Emirates</strong> currently operates 32 weekly fl ights to France,<br />
with 20 fl ights per week from Paris including a double<br />
daily A380 service, a daily fl ight to Nice and fi ve fl ights per<br />
week to Lyon.<br />
The service now brings <strong>Emirates</strong>’ international<br />
travel expertise directly to travellers, allowing them<br />
to search for holiday ideas based on their personal<br />
preferences, be it a city break for one, family travel or a<br />
beach holiday for a group of friends.<br />
The Inspire Me application can ac<strong>com</strong>modate<br />
every traveller’s need – from beach-side resorts,<br />
historical journeys, indulgent shopping sprees or<br />
escapes into nature.
green<br />
Smart threadS<br />
A British clothing <strong>com</strong>pany has<br />
launched an environmentally friendly<br />
collection of uniforms aimed at the air<br />
travel industry.<br />
Corporate clothing <strong>com</strong>pany Lyn<br />
Oakes claim that their Eco Collection<br />
can help boost their environmental<br />
credentials of airlines by offering<br />
easy-to-clean uniforms that derive<br />
90% energy used by washing<br />
times<br />
machines is to heat the water<br />
from all natural, sustainable and<br />
renewable sources.<br />
The <strong>com</strong>pany states that all the<br />
garments in the collection are tested<br />
and adhere to the Oeko-Tex Standard<br />
100, where guidelines test for harmful<br />
substances across the manufacturing<br />
process. The interlinings of the<br />
uniforms are also either made from<br />
viscose – a biodegradable material<br />
made with pine wood pulp from<br />
re-cultivated forests – or from<br />
recycled plastic bottles.<br />
Part of the range has been specially<br />
designed to be washed at lower<br />
temperatures, with less detergent and<br />
without the need for fabric softener.<br />
From peSt to power<br />
seAweed wAshed up on the shore may<br />
be an eyesore but, according to recent<br />
research, it could soon be used to<br />
produce a clean source of energy.<br />
A research group from the University<br />
of Alicante in Spain claim that it has<br />
invented a system that will wash, dry and<br />
<strong>com</strong>pact beached seaweed, which can<br />
then be converted into pellets and used as<br />
a source of biomass in power plants.<br />
When seaweed is alive in the ocean<br />
it serves as a habitat and food source<br />
(source: thedailygreen.<strong>com</strong>)<br />
for marine life. However, once it gets<br />
washed ashore it tends to rot, only to<br />
then be cleared from the beaches and<br />
shipped off to landfill sights.<br />
Because the process is carried out on<br />
the beach, it also cuts out the amount of<br />
dead seaweed being shipped to landfills,<br />
making it cheaper, more efficient and<br />
helps lessen the erosion of the beach as<br />
large quantities of sand are also sent to<br />
the landfills collaterally by the current<br />
cleaning procedures.<br />
108<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong><br />
Carbonneutral<br />
raCing<br />
six<br />
as many jobs are created by<br />
the recycling industry than landfilling<br />
(source: sailsbury university)<br />
with environmentAl<br />
conditions having an<br />
impact on the sailing<br />
industry, it is no surprise<br />
that for the second year<br />
running the Atlantic<br />
Cup sailing race was<br />
run adhering to carbonneutral<br />
levels.<br />
Last year the 648<br />
nautical mile race down<br />
the East coast of the USA<br />
became the first race in<br />
the country to offset its<br />
levels of CO2, with last<br />
month’s race achieving the<br />
same lofty standards.<br />
To offset a predicted<br />
10.45 metric tonnes<br />
of CO2, organisers<br />
ensured that the teams<br />
used biodiesel hydro<br />
generators, solar panels<br />
and fuel cells at each<br />
of the stops along the<br />
multi-city event to limit<br />
the use of fuel during the<br />
<strong>com</strong>petition. There were<br />
also restrictions in place to<br />
eliminate the use of singleuse<br />
plastic bottles in the<br />
hospitality villages and the<br />
use of plastic water bottles<br />
on-board the boats.
COMFORT<br />
Comfort<br />
in the air<br />
smart traveller<br />
drink plenty of water<br />
rehYDrAte With WAter or Juices frequentlY.<br />
Drink teA AnD coffee in moDerAtion.<br />
travel lightly<br />
cArrY onlY the essentiAl items thAt You<br />
Will neeD During Your flight.<br />
wear glasses<br />
cABin Air is Drier thAn normAl therefore<br />
sWAp Your contAct lenses for glAsses.<br />
use skin moisturiser<br />
ApplY A gooD quAlitY moisturiser to ensure<br />
Your skin Doesn’t DrY out.<br />
keep moving<br />
exercise Your loWer legs AnD cAlf<br />
muscles. this encourAges BlooD floW.<br />
make yourself <strong>com</strong>fortable<br />
loosen clothing, remove JAcket AnD AvoiD<br />
AnYthing pressing AgAinst Your BoDY.<br />
to help you arrive at your destination feeling<br />
relaxed and refreshed, emirates has developed<br />
this collection of helpful travel tips regardless<br />
of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday<br />
or be effective at achieving your goals on a business<br />
trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your<br />
journey and time on board with emirates today.<br />
110<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />
Before Your JourneY<br />
Consult your doctor before travelling<br />
if you have any medical concerns<br />
about making a long journey, or<br />
if you suffer from a respiratory or<br />
cardiovascular condition.<br />
Plan for the destination – will<br />
you need any vaccinations or<br />
special medications?<br />
Get a good night’s rest before<br />
the flight.<br />
Eat lightly and sensibly.<br />
At the Airport<br />
Allow yourself plenty of timefor<br />
check-in.<br />
Avoid carrying heavy bags through<br />
the airport and onto the flight<br />
as this can place the body under<br />
considerable stress.<br />
Once through to departures try and<br />
relax as much as possible.<br />
During the flight<br />
Chewing and swallowing will help<br />
equalise your ear pressure during<br />
ascent and descent.<br />
Babies and young passengers may<br />
suffer more acutely with popping<br />
ears, therefore consider providing<br />
a dummy.<br />
Get as <strong>com</strong>fortable as possible when<br />
resting and turn frequently.<br />
Avoid sleeping for long periods in<br />
the same position.<br />
When You Arrive<br />
Try some light exercise or read if<br />
you can’t sleep after arrival.
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Tekfen Tower<br />
Louis Vuitton Orjin Building<br />
SERVCORP.COM.TR
VISA & STATS<br />
Guide<br />
to Us cUstoms & immigration forms<br />
Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide<br />
to <strong>com</strong>pleting the US customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your<br />
journey is as hassle free as possible.<br />
customs<br />
declaration<br />
form<br />
All passengers arriving into<br />
the US need to <strong>com</strong>plete a<br />
Customs DeClaration<br />
Form. If you are travelling<br />
as a family this should be<br />
<strong>com</strong>pleted by one member<br />
only. The form must be<br />
<strong>com</strong>pleted in English, in<br />
capital letters, and must be<br />
signed where indicated.<br />
112<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong><br />
cAbIn crEw wIll bE hAppy<br />
To hElp If yoU nEEd ASSISTAncE<br />
<strong>com</strong>plETIng ThE formS
ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR<br />
TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA)<br />
If you are an international traveller wishing<br />
to enter the United States under the Visa<br />
Waiver Programme, You must apply for<br />
electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72<br />
hours prior to your departure.<br />
ESTA FACTS:<br />
Children and infants require an<br />
individual ESTA.<br />
The online ESTA system will inform<br />
you whether your application has<br />
been authorised, not authorised or<br />
if authorisation is pending.<br />
A successful ESTA application is valid<br />
for two years, however this may be revoked<br />
or will expire along with your passport.<br />
APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA<br />
NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE FOR<br />
THE VISA WAIVER*:<br />
Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei,<br />
Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland,<br />
France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland,<br />
Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania,<br />
Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands,<br />
New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino,<br />
Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South<br />
Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the<br />
UnitedKingdom**<br />
* SUBJECT TO CHANGE<br />
** ONLY BRITISH CITIZENS<br />
QUALIFY UNDER THE VISA<br />
WAIVER PROGRAMME.<br />
113<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong>
ROUTE MAP<br />
114<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong>
115<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong>
Europe<br />
To New York City<br />
0 hrs<br />
Lisbon<br />
Glasgow<br />
Dublin<br />
Manchester<br />
Birmingham<br />
GMT 0 hrs London<br />
(Heathrow & Gatwick)<br />
GMT +1hrs<br />
Newcastle<br />
Zaragoza<br />
Madrid<br />
Paris<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Dusseldorf<br />
Liege<br />
Frankfurt<br />
+1hrs<br />
Gothenburg<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Hamburg<br />
Prague<br />
Munich<br />
Lyon<br />
Zurich<br />
Geneva<br />
Milan<br />
Venice<br />
Nice<br />
Barcelona<br />
Rome<br />
+2hrs<br />
Stockholm<br />
Warsaw<br />
Vienna<br />
+1hrs<br />
116<br />
OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />
+2hrs<br />
+3hrs<br />
St. Petersburg<br />
Istanbul<br />
+4hrs<br />
Moscow<br />
To Dubai<br />
+2hrs
WHERE ARE<br />
YOU GOING?<br />
TELL US OR UPLOAD A PIC AT<br />
FACEBOOK.COM/OPENSKIESMAGAZINE<br />
TWITTER.COM/OPENSKIESMAG<br />
117<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong>
FLEET<br />
The Fleet<br />
Our fleet cOntains<br />
201 aircraft Made up<br />
Of 191 passenger<br />
aircraft and 10<br />
cargO aircraft<br />
Boeing 777-300eR Number of Aircraft: 88 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m<br />
Boeing 777-300 Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m<br />
Boeing 777-200LR Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m<br />
Boeing 777-200 Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m<br />
Boeing 777F Number of Aircraft: 8 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m<br />
For more inFormation: www.emirates.<strong>com</strong>/ourFleet<br />
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<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong>
Airbus A380-800 Number of Aircraft: 35 Capacity: 489-5 17 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m<br />
Airbus A340-500 Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m<br />
Airbus A340-300 Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m<br />
Airbus A330-200 Number of Aircraft: 23 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m<br />
boeing 747-400erF Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m<br />
aircraft numbers as of 30/06/<strong>2013</strong><br />
119<br />
<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong>
Will there ever be a time when<br />
humans can live forever? We will<br />
be speaking to some experts next<br />
month to find out if the latest<br />
technology can prolong our lives longer than we<br />
ever thought possible. We travel to Casablanca,<br />
one of Morocco’s most interesting cities, to find<br />
out where to sleep, eat and party. We celebrate<br />
the 150th anniversary of the Tube, London’s underground<br />
transport system, and figure out why<br />
it generates so many mixed emotions among<br />
Londoners. The Arabian horse is one of the most<br />
beautiful animals in the world, and our photo<br />
essay celebrates the stunning form of these thoroughbred<br />
animals. We also check out Prague,<br />
Buenos Aires and one of Dubai’s best kept<br />
culinary secrets. See you next month.
www.omegawatches.<strong>com</strong>