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RISE OF A CITY<br />

a photographic take on dubai


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Editor’s<br />

LEttEr<br />

editor@<br />

openskiesmagazine.<br />

<strong>com</strong><br />

<strong>Emirates</strong> takes care to ensure that all facts published<br />

herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please<br />

contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest<br />

belief of the author based on all available facts. <strong>com</strong>ments<br />

and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking<br />

<strong>com</strong>mercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are<br />

by their nature general and specialist advice should always<br />

be consulted before any actions are taken.<br />

Media One Tower, Dubai Media city<br />

PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000<br />

Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: emirates@motivate.ae<br />

96,425<br />

copies<br />

Printed by <strong>Emirates</strong> Printing Press, Dubai, UAE<br />

We still remember the first time we saw Christopher Reeve don<br />

the blue and red Superman suit, and this summer the Man of<br />

Steel returns, with British actor Henry Cavill set to fill Reeve’s red<br />

boots. We look back at the behind-the-scenes shenanigans that<br />

ensured life on set was almost as eventful as life in Metropolis.<br />

Matthias Heiderich is gaining attention as one of the best young<br />

photographers in Europe, and his stunning shots of Dubai will<br />

show you the city as you have never seen it. Elsewhere, we walk<br />

down one of Toronto’s longest – and most interesting – streets. We<br />

also meet legendary architect Norman Foster, and ask him what<br />

he is doing curating an art show. And in Madrid, we discover a<br />

wonderful pastry shop that is still going strong 99 years after it<br />

was founded. If you ever needed an excuse to visit the Spanish<br />

capital, La Duquesita is it. Enjoy the issue.<br />

edItor-In-ChIef Obaid humaid Al Tayer ManagIng partner & group edItor In ChIef Ian Fairservice<br />

edItorIal dIreCtor Gina Johnson • gina@motivate.ae group edItor Mark Evans • marke@motivate.ae<br />

edItor Conor Purcell • conor@motivate.ae deputy edItor Gareth Rees • gareth@motivate.ae<br />

desIgner Roui Francisco • rom@motivate.ae staff wrIter Matthew Priest • matthew@motivate.ae<br />

edItorIal assIstant Londresa Flores • londresa@motivate.ae<br />

head of produCtIon S Sunil Kumar senIor produCtIon Manager c Sudhakar<br />

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senIor sales exeCutIve Rahul Shivaprakash edItorIal Consultants for eMIrates: edItor Jonathan hill<br />

arabIC edItor hatem Omar deputy edItor Andy grant websIte • emirates.<strong>com</strong> ContrIbutors Kausar<br />

Shahab, connie Tsang, caro Emerald, gemma correll, gabriella Maj, Matthew Lightner, John Reid, Tina Reid, Paddy<br />

Smith, Vicky hayward, Pablo herranz, Jay Merrick, Adam Smith, Matthias heiderich, Edward Mcgowan, Daniel huffman<br />

Cover IMage: Matthias heiderich<br />

InternatIonal MedIa representatIves: AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND Okeeffe Media, Kevin O’ Keeffe; Tel + 61 89<br />

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17<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong>


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contents / june <strong>2013</strong><br />

32<br />

A new limitededition<br />

travel<br />

book with a<br />

difference<br />

38<br />

A walk<br />

through one of<br />

Toronto’s most<br />

interesting<br />

streets<br />

44<br />

Dutch jazz<br />

singer Caro<br />

Emerald shares<br />

her top tunes<br />

46<br />

A slice of<br />

luxury in the<br />

Maldives<br />

21<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

50<br />

A tour of<br />

Dublin’a<br />

burgeoning<br />

<strong>com</strong>edy scene<br />

61<br />

A shot of<br />

Venice, the City<br />

of Light<br />

62<br />

One of<br />

Madrid’s<br />

longestrunning<br />

cafes,<br />

La Duquesita


contents / june <strong>2013</strong><br />

68<br />

The inside<br />

story of the<br />

making of<br />

Superman<br />

Front (31)<br />

Bits 32<br />

Question/Grid 34<br />

Calendar 36<br />

The Street 38<br />

Skypod 44<br />

Room 46<br />

Main (67) news (103)<br />

Superman Uncovered 68<br />

WTTC 78<br />

Norman Foster 82<br />

Dubai Photos 92<br />

22<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

92<br />

Matthias Heiderich showcases Dubai<br />

in some stunning photographs<br />

82<br />

An exclusive<br />

interview with<br />

Norman Foster<br />

Consume 49<br />

Our Man 50<br />

BLD 55<br />

Mapped 56<br />

Place 61<br />

Store 62<br />

News 105<br />

Green 108<br />

Visa Guide 110<br />

Fleet 118


CONFIDENCE IN ANY LANGUAGE.<br />

Carat Weight<br />

1.53<br />

Natural Diamond<br />

Not Synthetic<br />

Color Grade<br />

E<br />

Clarity Grade<br />

VS1<br />

Cut Grade<br />

Excellent<br />

Laser Inscription<br />

Registry Number<br />

GIA 16354621<br />

Wherever you go, a GIA report means assurance of diamond quality.<br />

Before you buy, look for confi rmation from the world’s foremost gem authority and creator of the 4Cs.<br />

Learn more at www.4cs.gia.edu<br />

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.


contributors<br />

Vicky<br />

Hayward<br />

Vicky is a journalist<br />

and writer who<br />

lives in Madrid.<br />

Her book on<br />

Spanish monastic<br />

cooking is due to<br />

be published in<br />

2014. She managed<br />

to satisfy her sweet<br />

tooth in one of<br />

Madrid’s oldest<br />

bakeries.<br />

connie<br />

Tsang<br />

Connie is a<br />

Toronto-based<br />

event and<br />

documentary<br />

photographer who<br />

has worked with<br />

the likes of the<br />

CBC, Globe & Mail,<br />

and the Museum<br />

of the City of New<br />

York.<br />

adam<br />

smiTH<br />

Adam Smith is<br />

senior writer for<br />

Empire movie<br />

magazine and is a<br />

regular broadcaster<br />

on BBC Radio 4<br />

and the World<br />

Service. His first<br />

book, The Rough<br />

Guide to 21st<br />

Century Cinema, is<br />

available now.<br />

26<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Jay<br />

merrick<br />

Jay Merrick,<br />

architecture<br />

critic of The<br />

Independent<br />

in London, has<br />

also written for<br />

Architects’ Journal<br />

and produced<br />

monograph texts<br />

for a number of<br />

major architectural<br />

practices.<br />

maTTHias<br />

HeidericH<br />

Matthias is a<br />

Berlin-based<br />

photographer<br />

whose vivid urban<br />

photography has<br />

seen him published<br />

around the<br />

world. His use of<br />

geometric shapes<br />

and colours is<br />

exceptional.


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Slow Jam<br />

La Duquesita has been<br />

serving treats to Madrid’s<br />

sweet lovers since 1914<br />

(62)<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

38<br />

TORONTO<br />

A walk through<br />

Spadina Avenue,<br />

one of the city’s<br />

longest streets<br />

FRONT<br />

50<br />

DUBLIN<br />

A guide<br />

to Dublin’s<br />

growing <strong>com</strong>edy<br />

club scenwwe<br />

56<br />

MANILA<br />

We check out<br />

the Filipino<br />

capital, Asia’s<br />

rising star


Bits<br />

StarS / Sabio Azadi with his book; an original take on the guide book concept<br />

For You The Traveller<br />

A hAnd-bound trAvel guide with A difference thAt<br />

covers the globe, one personAl story At A time<br />

As far removed from<br />

the ‘clichéd’ travel<br />

guide as is possible,<br />

For You The Traveller<br />

is a hand-bound book (covered in<br />

salvaged rabbit fur) that features<br />

the names, stories and telephone<br />

numbers of people across the<br />

world. each contributor tells a<br />

personal story about the place<br />

they call home (all beautifully<br />

illustrated) and their telephone<br />

number. if you buy the book and<br />

are passing through their city,<br />

they promise to be a ‘port-of-call’.<br />

it’s a wonderful idea, beautifully<br />

executed, and all profits go to the<br />

swiss charity nouvelle planete.<br />

the cities include tehran, los<br />

Angeles, sapporo and Antwerp,<br />

and the chapters are written<br />

by a wide variety of people: a<br />

Wel<strong>com</strong>e<br />

to Iraq<br />

One of the most interesting<br />

exhibitions at the Venice<br />

Biennale is Wel<strong>com</strong>e To<br />

Iraq, a group exhibition of<br />

contemporary Iraqi artists covering<br />

everything from photography and<br />

painting to sculpture and installation<br />

work. All of the artists live and work<br />

in Iraq, which makes this selection of<br />

32<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

political analyst, a farmer, an<br />

urban designer, a leather worker,<br />

an ecologist and a scientist, among<br />

others. created by 21-year-old<br />

iranian-new Zealander artist<br />

nabil sabio Azadi, this is one of<br />

the most intriguing and original<br />

ideas for a travel book we have<br />

seen and, best of all, it’s for a really<br />

good cause.<br />

www.nabilsabioazadi.<strong>com</strong><br />

art different to the myriad exhibitions<br />

by Iraqi diaspora artists. Despite the<br />

problems Iraq faces at the moment<br />

– and the decades of repression – an<br />

art scene is slowly emerging. The<br />

exhibition will be held at Ca’ Dandolo,<br />

a 16th-century building that has not<br />

been used as a pavilion before. Held<br />

in a first-floor apartment, creating a<br />

salon atmosphere where visitors can<br />

sit, read and learn about Iraqi culture<br />

and drink tea. It runs from <strong>June</strong> 1st to<br />

November 24th.<br />

www.theiraqpavilion.<strong>com</strong><br />

COurTeSy: THe ArTIST AND ruyA FOuNDATION


THE QUESTION<br />

WHY DO DINOSAURS LOOK SO<br />

SCARY COMPARED TO THE ANIMALS<br />

THAT ARE AROUND TODAY?<br />

The main reason that dinosaurs look so scary is that the images you see of dinosaurs are not accurate<br />

representations of what they really looked like. Dinosaur reconstructions tend to be done conservatively,<br />

meaning that muscle mass is minimised and the skin is stretched tightly over that mass. Surface<br />

adornments and colours are not known, so they’re not added. We now know that many dinosaurs<br />

had feathers of various types, so there’s plenty of opportunity for colours, decorations, tufts and<br />

fluff and fur – however most of the drawings of dinosaurs do not take these into account – and this<br />

results in very scary depictions. Look at a skeleton model of a cat, for example, and it will look quite<br />

scary without its fur. Of course, another reason dinosaurs look so scary, is that they were, in fact,<br />

scary. Or at least, some of them were, given their huge size. And the most popular dinosaurs (in terms<br />

of their representation in films, for example) are the biggest ones. Jurassic Park<br />

would have been a less successful film had it focused on the Parvicursor<br />

remotus, an animal smaller than a duck. Lastly, we are just not used<br />

to seeing these animals – given that they do not exist any more.<br />

If the only visuals we had of a rhino were imperfect drawings,<br />

we would think them pretty scary too – in fact, the<br />

rhino proves that some current animals are just as scary as<br />

any dinosaur.<br />

One of Britain’s best-loved<br />

<strong>com</strong>ics, Michael McIntyre,<br />

brings his <strong>com</strong>edy antics to<br />

Dubai World Trade Centre’s<br />

Sheikh Rashid Hall on <strong>June</strong><br />

7th and 8th. Supported<br />

by fellow funnyman Paul<br />

Tonkinson, McIntyre’s brand of<br />

observational humour is sure<br />

to have you clutching your sides<br />

with laughter.<br />

michaelmcintyre.co.uk<br />

Jumeirah Beach Road has a lot<br />

of shopping boutiques that<br />

vary wildly in quality, but one<br />

of our favourites is Bambah,<br />

across the road from Dubai<br />

Zoo. A mixture of designer<br />

pieces from the past, as well<br />

as cheaper vintage outfits and<br />

a host of accessories, make<br />

browsing here a joy.<br />

bambah.<strong>com</strong><br />

THE GRID<br />

34<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

The Smurfs are <strong>com</strong>ing to town<br />

with a live show at Mirdif City<br />

Centre. The legendary Papa<br />

Smurf will attempt to organise<br />

the Blue Moon Festival and rally<br />

his fellow smurfs to the cause.<br />

Three 25-minute performances<br />

will be held daily, and it’s free<br />

for all. It runs from <strong>June</strong> 14th<br />

to the 24th daily.<br />

mirdifcitycentre.<strong>com</strong><br />

Smiling BKK is something of<br />

a cult favourite in Dubai, with<br />

its quirky menus and kitsch<br />

décor (as well as cheap Thai<br />

food) resulting in a packed<br />

restaurant most nights of the<br />

week. With this in mind, it has<br />

opened a new branch in Wasl<br />

Square development across<br />

from Safa Park. Let’s hope the<br />

atmosphere remains the same.<br />

waslsquare.wasl.ae


Day dreaming<br />

again<br />

Imagine waking up to this view every morning. You’d be forgiven for thinking you’re still dreaming. But this is reality.<br />

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To arrange a viewing or for more information, call Better Homes on 600 52 2233 (within the UAE)<br />

or +971 600 52 2233 (International) or visit the onsite sales office.<br />

anantararesidences.<strong>com</strong><br />

A Seven Tides project. Anantara Residences Dubai Palm Jumeirah are not owned, developed or sold by Minor International (Thailand) PCL., Minor Hotel Group, Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas or their affiliates.<br />

Seven Tides uses the Anantara trademark and trade name under license from Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas.


aRT by: JuSTin MCGuiRk<br />

<strong>June</strong><br />

CALENDAR<br />

<strong>June</strong> 5 to 16<br />

sydney Film Festival<br />

in typical aussie style, this 12-day<br />

festival for film aficionados promotes<br />

and celebrates “courageous, audacious<br />

and cutting-edge” cinema. The<br />

<strong>com</strong>petition is fierce for this year’s<br />

60th anniversary event, with films<br />

ranging from an ode to the silent movie<br />

era, to korean director Park Chanwook’s<br />

first English-language feature,<br />

Stoker, a neo-gothic thriller starring<br />

Mia Wasikowska, Matthew Goode and<br />

nicole kidman.<br />

PRiMaVERaSound.CoM<br />

<strong>June</strong> 1 to november 24<br />

La Biennale<br />

<strong>June</strong> 7 to September 29<br />

Yoko Ono – A Retrospective<br />

To many she is simply the wife of John Lennon, to others she’s the<br />

woman who broke up The Beatles, but Yoko Ono has been engaging<br />

audiences around the world with arresting avant-garde artworks for<br />

the past 60 years. This year the experimental artist celebrates her 80th<br />

birthday, and as part of the celebrations, the Louisiana Museum of<br />

Modern Art in Copenhagen is showing a retrospective of her life and<br />

works, entitled Yoko Ono: Half-A-Wind Show.<br />

louSiana.dk<br />

The 55th International Art Exhibition takes place this month in the spectacular<br />

surroundings of the Giardini and the Arsenale in Venice. Entitled Il Palazzo<br />

Enciclopedico (The Encyclopedic Palace) works by more than 150 artists from 37<br />

countries, spanning the last century, will be on display at venues around the city.<br />

labiEnnalE.oRG<br />

Place<br />

36<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

<strong>June</strong> 26 to 30<br />

Glastonbury Festival<br />

What was once Pilton Festival, a small<br />

summer music event started by Michael<br />

Eavis in 1970, is now the world-famous<br />

Glastonbury Festival. Situated on<br />

Worthy Farm near the town of Pilton<br />

in Somerset, England, the four-day<br />

festival has a lineup featuring some of<br />

the biggest stars in the music industry.<br />

This year is no exception, with headliners<br />

including The Rolling Stones, arctic<br />

Monkeys, Rita ora, Elvis Costello & The<br />

imposters and Rufus Wainwright.<br />

GlaSTonbuRyFESTiValS.Co.uk<br />

Viewing Venice page 61


the street<br />

Spadina Avenue<br />

A street, like a person, has personality. For a Torontonian, Spadina Avenue, with its quaint streetcars<br />

and diverse culture, represents the many facets of the city’s character. Starting near the top, where<br />

it is known as Spadina Road, are high towers, dungeons and English gardens. Going south, it<br />

changes to Spadina Ave, where an iron dragon watches over shops selling Asian <strong>com</strong>fort food, cheap<br />

electronics and even dried shark fins (until the city finally makes up its mind to ban them). Midway,<br />

it opens into Kensington Market, an exhaustive blend of curio and culture. Just before it winds up<br />

on the promenades of Toronto’s harbour front, it meets the fashion district, which illustrates that<br />

the city has its own, original, fashion scene.<br />

38<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Words by Kausar<br />

Shahab / Images by<br />

Connie Tsang


39<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Simon Sushi<br />

Popular with University of Toronto students, the menu at<br />

Simon Sushi features an impressive selection of Japanese<br />

cuisine. As chef Simon Au says, his nori, wakame, miso<br />

and chirashi is better than campus food, especially<br />

with generous serving sizes. The Bento box, made up<br />

of teriyaki, dumplings, sushi, shrimp and vegetable<br />

tempura is dependable, and the U of T Roll, a maki roll<br />

of barbequed eel, avocado and cream cheese, honouring<br />

his most loyal patrons, is, understandably, one of the most<br />

popular orders.<br />

409 Spadina Ave<br />

Tel: +1 (416) 9772828<br />

Toronto Music Garden<br />

Toronto Music Garden represents Bach’s Suite 1 in G<br />

Major. There are six sections, each with a conceptspecific<br />

landscape. Prelude is a walkway representing<br />

a river’s undulations; Allemande is a birch forest<br />

representing a German dance form; Courante is<br />

a verdant field symbolising movements from the<br />

courante dance style; Sarabande is a conifer grove in<br />

the style of a Spanish dance, with a stone platform<br />

for readings by authors; Minuets is a flower parterre<br />

with a performance area, evocative of formality and<br />

precision, much like the dance; and Gigue is a series<br />

of grass steps around an amphitheatre, reflecting<br />

the boisterous English jig. Definitely one for music<br />

or garden enthusiasts, but also a nice spot for an<br />

afternoon stroll.<br />

harbourfrontcentre.<strong>com</strong><br />

Tel: +1 (416) 9734000<br />

Spadina and Queen’s Quay


The City of Toronto Archives<br />

Toronto Archives has a huge collection of public-access<br />

photographs, such as the picture of a man in breeches<br />

drinking from a <strong>com</strong>munal water cup at a fountain on<br />

Spadina Ave itself (circa 1822), as well as maps, records and<br />

other historical materials. Browsing feels a little voyeuristic,<br />

but there’s nothing like a spot of snooping on a sleepy<br />

afternoon. There are also year-round exhibits.<br />

toronto.ca/archives<br />

255 Spadina Road<br />

Tel: +1 (416) 3975000<br />

Moore Gallery<br />

Works by prominent and emerging Canadian painters and<br />

sculptors are exhibited, and for sale, at this attractive gallery.<br />

It’s an excellent place to take in some Canadian art, and in<br />

the past it has supported home-grown art movements such as<br />

Les Automatistes, pioneered by francophone artists such as<br />

Pierre Gauvreau and Janine Carreau. The gallery is currently<br />

exhibiting Michael Adamson’s Wolf Pavilion.<br />

mooregallery.<strong>com</strong><br />

80 Spadina Ave<br />

Tel: +1 (416) 5043914<br />

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<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Kensington Market<br />

This busy market is reminiscent of London’s<br />

Portobello Road. Rare alabaster? Genuine<br />

plaster? A filigreed samovar owned by the<br />

Czar? A pen used by Shelley? A new Botticelli?<br />

Women in clicking stilettos scour the ground<br />

for vintage lace and reproduction trinkets,<br />

while a local production <strong>com</strong>pany retells<br />

Medea and Faust using the mediums<br />

of fire breathing, stilt walking and puppetry.<br />

Visitors should not miss Global Cheese, an<br />

educator and seller of coagulated dairy, or<br />

Chocolate Addict, which sells interesting<br />

flavours such as wasabi and potato chip.<br />

kensington-market.ca<br />

Spadina and Dundas<br />

King Textiles<br />

A haven of fabrics, patterns, trims, pompoms,<br />

home décor, drapery, sewing accessories, trims<br />

and leather. Smack in the middle of the fashion<br />

district, King Textiles lures fashion students<br />

and DIY interior decorators alike. Even with<br />

browsers, the manager, Eti, is incredibly patient,<br />

friendly and wel<strong>com</strong>ing. If in the area and ready<br />

for nuptials, check out the very impressive<br />

bridal section.<br />

kingtextiles.ca<br />

161 Spadina Ave<br />

Tel: +1 (416) 5040600


Spadina House<br />

Across the street from the turrets of Toronto’s<br />

own castle, Casa Loma, sits a less ostentatious<br />

property. Originally built by financier James<br />

Austin in 1866, Spadina House is beautifully<br />

restored and now operates as a museum.<br />

Visitors can take a period tour, which will<br />

allow them to discover more about the family<br />

that resided in the house for four generations,<br />

and even confirm or dispel reports of an<br />

animal apparition; the spirit is said to be<br />

associated with a taxidermist’s wolf exhibited<br />

in the entrance.<br />

285 Spadina Road<br />

Tel: +1 (416) 3926910<br />

Dai Kuang<br />

Wah Herb Market<br />

Like an apothecary’s lab, this herbal store evokes<br />

a sense of untapped prowess and ancient secrets.<br />

Gathered, dried and pounded, the herbs make for<br />

interesting browsing and inspired buying. Just<br />

the list of ailments the herbs are supposed to cure<br />

– “clear heat”, “drain fire or clear heat”, “resolve<br />

toxicity” – puts you in a revitalised state. It is also<br />

fun to see how <strong>com</strong>mon herbs translate graphically.<br />

Ma bo, or the fruiting body of the <strong>com</strong>mon puffball,<br />

aptly translates as “horse inflation”.<br />

280 Spadina Ave<br />

Tel: +1 (416) 5972224<br />

Chinatown Centre Food Court<br />

Revel in quintessential Hong Kong, high-density<br />

occupancy, and audio-visual-olfactory overload,<br />

then make your way to the underground food court<br />

to brave an eclectic profusion of mini tasting menus.<br />

Vendors offer four items for $2.99 (CAD), including<br />

the popular fried chicken.<br />

222 Spadina Ave<br />

Tel: +1 (416) 5998877<br />

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<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong>


Luxury beyond your dreams<br />

Quasar Istanbul is the first meta-luxury real estate project in Turkey,<br />

which brings the Swiss excellence and perfectionism together with the Turkish hospitality and dynamism.<br />

Quasar Istanbul, located in the very heart of Istanbul city, also presents the Fairmont Quasar Istanbul Hotel,<br />

the very first of the globally renowned Fairmont Hotels in Turkey as well as the Fairmont Residences and<br />

the world’s first branded Fairmont Offices. The project is being developed on the site of an ancient Liqueur Factory,<br />

which was designed by one of France's most famous architects, Robert Mallet Stevens.<br />

The building will be reconstructed as a centre for culture, art and fashion.<br />

YOUR BEST CHOICE FOR THE RIGHT REAL ESTATE INVESTMENT IN TURKEY!<br />

Quasar Istanbul has already been pre-certified<br />

at the highest “gold” category as Turkey’s first green project<br />

in <strong>com</strong>pliance with Germany’s DGNB standards.<br />

Quasar Istanbul Sales Office<br />

VIATRANS - MEYDANBEY<br />

+90 212 444 7 123<br />

Luxury Properties www.quasaristanbul.<strong>com</strong><br />

Images: Marcel Wanders


SKYPOD<br />

Dutch jazz singer Caro Emerald reveals<br />

her favourite tracks<br />

1. 2. 3. 4.<br />

Madonna<br />

I Should Watch TV<br />

It is from Madonna’s<br />

very first album, and it<br />

had great meaning for<br />

me when I was a little<br />

girl. I recently bought<br />

it again, and I’ve been<br />

dancing around my<br />

room to it daily.<br />

Dinah Washington<br />

Mad About The Boy<br />

A wonderful song by the<br />

queen of the blues. I sang<br />

this for Jools Holland on<br />

his radio show, and he<br />

invited me back to sing<br />

it on his New Year TV<br />

show, the Hootenanny.<br />

I love it.<br />

Amy Winehouse<br />

Love Is A<br />

Losing Game<br />

Amy was a great singer,<br />

a total original. This<br />

song just goes straight<br />

to the heart. It’s heartbreaking<br />

that she left us.<br />

44<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

Rihanna<br />

Stay<br />

A very intimate,<br />

vulnerable and open<br />

song. As a singer, I<br />

think Rihanna is<br />

fantastic, she has<br />

amazing timing. The<br />

guest is Mikky Ekko,<br />

a relatively unknown<br />

name – that’s brave, and<br />

demands a lot of respect.


5. Prince<br />

Newpower Soul<br />

This is from Prince’s New<br />

Power Generation period.<br />

Stylistically, it’s a little bit<br />

more hip-hop than the<br />

music he’s usually known<br />

for, but he’s always got an<br />

ear for a perfect groove.<br />

6. M.I.A.<br />

Paper Planes<br />

A more experimental<br />

choice. Whenever I go on<br />

a road trip, this is the song<br />

that I play to get me in a<br />

holiday mood. The way<br />

she plays around with<br />

sound is incredible.<br />

7. Bobby McFerrin<br />

Don’t Worry, Be Happy<br />

I used to sing this a capella.<br />

It’s the ultimate happy<br />

song – who doesn’t grin<br />

when they listen to it?<br />

8. Shirley Bassey<br />

Where Do I Begin<br />

(Love Story)<br />

I love the phrase ‘he fills<br />

my heart’; when she sings it,<br />

the song really opens up.<br />

<strong>June</strong> 24 to July 7<br />

Wimbledon Championships<br />

Hosted in the London suburb of Wimbledon, the world’s oldest tennis<br />

championships are not only the highlight of the year’s tennis season but<br />

also the telltale sign that summer has arrived in Europe. Predict<br />

unpredictable weather, high drama, punnets of strawberries, a packed<br />

out Henman Hill (or Murray Mound as it is known today) and plenty of<br />

appearances from Prince William and Kate Middleton.<br />

wimbledon.<strong>com</strong><br />

Manila<br />

45<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Asian Tiger page 56<br />

JUNE<br />

CALENDAR


TExT: GABrIElA MAJ // WWW.JuMEIrAH.cOM/JuMEIrAH-DHEvANAFuSHI<br />

the Room<br />

vIllA 10<br />

JuMEIrAH DHEvANAFuSHI<br />

MAlDIvES<br />

After the turquoise wake left behind by a white speedboat jetting along<br />

the glistening surface of the vast Indian Ocean, guests arrive at the<br />

stunning Jumeriah Dhevanafushi Resort perched on top one of the<br />

Maldives smallest and most beautiful islands. Corridors of lush, perfectly<br />

manicured green jungle lead to the property’s 19 island villas. Nestled into<br />

a <strong>com</strong>pletely private slice of beach front surrounded by tall palms, weaving<br />

mangroves and blooming hibiscus, the experience guarantees peaceful<br />

seclusion and rapid de<strong>com</strong>pression. Complete with an outdoor rain<br />

shower, large indoor and outdoor plunge pools, a plush secondary out door<br />

day bed, two 42-inch flat screen TVs, separate living, dining and<br />

entertainment areas and a private white sand beach, there is little<br />

left to desire. With a personal butler on call 24 hours a day guests can<br />

sequester <strong>com</strong>pletely or fill up their time enjoying the resorts three<br />

restaurants, spa, two large infinity pools and mixologist-manned<br />

bar. Snorkelling with horn-billed sea turtles in the technicoloured<br />

forest of life also known as the house reef is just steps away from your<br />

bed and only one of many <strong>com</strong>plimentary water activities on offer.<br />

46<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

INTERNET SPEED: 2MB<br />

PILLOWS: Eight<br />

BED SIzE: 2 x 3metres<br />

(Oversized Super King)<br />

iPOD DOCK: Yes<br />

CLUB SANDWICH<br />

DELIVERY TIME: 22 mins<br />

COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS:<br />

Fresh fruit delivered each<br />

afternoon, a unique Maldivian<br />

sweet delivered every evening<br />

and fruit Sushi upon arrival.<br />

TOILETRY BRAND: Hermès<br />

ExTRAS: Nespresso and<br />

1837 TWG Tea<br />

DAILY NEWSPAPER:<br />

A4 printed versions of the<br />

IHT and the FT available every<br />

day. Specific international<br />

titles available upon request.<br />

TV CHANNELS: 24<br />

VIEW: 4/5<br />

RATE: 1,560$


ook<br />

ALL THAT IS<br />

James Salter<br />

James Salter – possibly the<br />

greatest American novelist<br />

you have never heard of – has<br />

released his latest novel, All<br />

That Is, at the age of 87, more than 30 years since his last<br />

book. What is astonishing is not his age, but it’s that it’s so<br />

good. But then Salter has always existed off the radar; he<br />

is no Updike or Roth, despite classics such as Light Years<br />

and A Sport And A Pastime. And so to this, his sixth novel.<br />

It traces the life of Philip Bowman, a naval officer who goes<br />

into publishing in New York, and who, as we follow his life<br />

through the 1950s, ’60s, ’70s and ’80s, gets more and more<br />

disillusioned with his lot. Salter has always been brilliant,<br />

and this is him at his best. A great novel.<br />

film<br />

WorLd WAr Z<br />

From George A Romero’s Dawn Of The Dead to<br />

the seemingly endless Resident Evil franchise, one<br />

thing is clear – zombie movies just won’t die. In<br />

World War Z, director Marc Forster tackles<br />

the ‘what-if’ scenario of a spreading zombie<br />

pandemic so large that it engulfs the world,<br />

eradicating entire countries. The film seems to<br />

pay fleeting regard to Max Brooks’ much-lauded<br />

original novel, but it does have a leading role for<br />

perennial do-gooder Brad Pitt.<br />

49<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

album<br />

consume<br />

Love In THe<br />

fuTure<br />

John Legend<br />

R&B star and serial<br />

collaborator John<br />

Legend shakes off<br />

a five-year hiatus<br />

with the launch of<br />

his fourth studio<br />

album Love In The<br />

Future. The understated singer/songwriter, known<br />

for his smooth and promiscuous lyrics, returns to<br />

the spotlight with an album featuring production<br />

from long-time friends and collaborators Kanye<br />

West and Dave Tozer who both worked on Legend’s<br />

first two albums.


OUR MAN IN<br />

Funny People<br />

Irish writer and <strong>com</strong>edian Carl Cullinane takes a tour of Dublin’s<br />

<strong>com</strong>edy scene and explains how laughter is helping Dubliners<br />

cope cope with the city’s economic slump<br />

Ireland and <strong>com</strong>edy<br />

have always been<br />

intertwined, with the<br />

country’s long-standing<br />

oral tradition and a literary canon<br />

rich in wit, from Oscar Wilde to<br />

Samuel Beckett to Jonathan Swift.<br />

It has forged a national character<br />

where humour is the instinctive<br />

reaction to triumph and failure<br />

alike, both of which the country<br />

HEADLINE ACT /<br />

The Stags Head<br />

is a revered Irish<br />

pub which hosts<br />

a <strong>com</strong>edy night<br />

has experienced in recent times.<br />

“We have a sense of humour that<br />

<strong>com</strong>es naturally to us,” agrees<br />

Colm McGlinchey, <strong>com</strong>edian<br />

and co-founder of the Comedy<br />

Crunch, one of the most popular<br />

<strong>com</strong>edy nights in Dublin, adding,<br />

with more than a hint of mischief,<br />

“Nobody in this country takes<br />

themselves too seriously.”<br />

As can be seen from street<br />

corner to public house, Ireland<br />

contains more cheek per unit of the<br />

population than anywhere in the<br />

OECD, and nowhere is this more<br />

obvious than the vibrant and everevolving<br />

Dublin <strong>com</strong>edy scene. A<br />

cradle to international stars such<br />

as Dara O’Briain, Dylan Moran<br />

50<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

Images by Kyle Tunney<br />

and Ed Byrne, and one which<br />

continues to produce prodigious<br />

new talent for export. “There is<br />

such a high standard for such a<br />

small country,” enthuses Americanborn<br />

Aidan Bishop, resident MC<br />

of the International Comedy Club.<br />

McGlinchey agrees: “Some of the<br />

talent here really is world class, as<br />

good as <strong>com</strong>edy gets.”<br />

Much of this talent can be seen<br />

at McGlinchey’s Comedy Crunch,<br />

one of Dublin’s biggest recent<br />

success stories. Tucked away in<br />

the cellar of the Stag’s Head, a<br />

grand old pub with an oaky sense<br />

of tradition, every Sunday and<br />

Monday nights, the event makes<br />

the foundations rumble with


the mirth of locals and visitors<br />

alike. But what is it about Irish<br />

<strong>com</strong>edy that sets it apart? Most<br />

prominently, in keeping with the<br />

oral tradition, stand-up <strong>com</strong>edy in<br />

Ireland has always had a history<br />

of raconteurs. “The Irish are<br />

definitely into their storytelling,<br />

relying on natural charm and<br />

character to really convey hilarious<br />

stories,” McGlinchey says.<br />

This is in evidence seven<br />

nights a week across Dublin’s city<br />

centre. All tastes are catered for,<br />

Vicar St, one of the best venues<br />

in the country for both music and<br />

<strong>com</strong>edy, offers the biggest Irish<br />

acts and the best visitors from<br />

foreign shores; the ever-popular<br />

Laughter Lounge provides<br />

uproarious fare for weekend<br />

audiences; and the International<br />

caters to the more discerning<br />

<strong>com</strong>edy aficionado, with a mixture<br />

of established <strong>com</strong>ics, up-and<strong>com</strong>ers,<br />

and critically acclaimed<br />

international acts.<br />

The International epitomises<br />

the raw experience of Irish<br />

<strong>com</strong>edy: a winding staircase<br />

above an old-fashioned pub,<br />

and a packed, intimate room,<br />

with eager audiences practically<br />

spilling onto the stage in front of<br />

the <strong>com</strong>ics, who are without even<br />

a microphone to hide behind. A<br />

focal point of the scene, it has been<br />

stewarded through the last 12 years<br />

by two brothers from Queens,<br />

New York: Des and Aidan Bishop.<br />

Aidan explains “I want to keep live<br />

<strong>com</strong>edy in the consciousness of<br />

Dublin City, keeping the quality of<br />

the acts high while also developing<br />

new talent. It’s a balancing act, but<br />

nothing beats live <strong>com</strong>edy.”<br />

Comedians and promoters<br />

alike agree that this balancing<br />

act in Dublin continues to be a<br />

largely successful one. Comedy<br />

here remains in rude health,<br />

despite the ups and downs in<br />

Irish society in recent times. But<br />

how have economic<br />

troubles affected<br />

the <strong>com</strong>edy scene?<br />

According to <strong>com</strong>edian<br />

Colm O’Regan, one<br />

of Ireland’s sharpest<br />

observers, “Comedy has<br />

got a bit more political<br />

and topical, but only up<br />

to a point. The market<br />

for and the ability to<br />

write topical <strong>com</strong>edy<br />

probably stays about<br />

the same over time.”<br />

While some audiences<br />

have an appetite for<br />

satire of Ireland’s often<br />

<strong>com</strong>ically dysfunctional<br />

political system, others<br />

51<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

prefer their <strong>com</strong>edy to be an<br />

escape from such grim realities.<br />

Ireland’s economic problems<br />

have served only to contribute<br />

to a real sense of ‘survival of the<br />

wittiest’ on the <strong>com</strong>edy scene. In<br />

a country with ever-more forms<br />

of entertainment <strong>com</strong>peting for<br />

a share of smaller budgets, the<br />

scene has had to adapt. Colm<br />

McGlinchey again argues, “People<br />

are cautious, but if you show them<br />

TWITTER<br />

PITCH<br />

rider Shack<br />

Your family-owned<br />

surf shop. Voted “Best Surf<br />

Shop in Los Angeles” in 2007,<br />

2008 and 2009 by FOX 11.<br />

Rider Shack starred in an<br />

episode of Peter Perfect<br />

on the Style Network<br />

@ridershack<br />

mollusk Surf Shop<br />

A surfing institution based<br />

in San Francisco and Venice<br />

Beach. Mollusk offers a<br />

place where surfing, art,<br />

craft, music, film and visual<br />

media <strong>com</strong>e together<br />

@MolluskSurfShop<br />

wittering Surf Shop<br />

The surfer’s surf shop.<br />

This West Sussex based<br />

shop specialises in surfing,<br />

surf hardware and surf fashion.<br />

When it <strong>com</strong>es to surfing,<br />

it really knows its stuff<br />

@WittSurfShop<br />

Home<br />

grown/ The<br />

International<br />

has long been<br />

the centre<br />

of the Dublin<br />

scene<br />

Summer’s nearly here, and what better way<br />

to cool off than to catch a few waves? Here’s<br />

our pick of the social-media-savvy surf<br />

shacks, shops and schools from around the<br />

rio Surf n Stay<br />

Rio Surf N Stay is a unique<br />

surf camp and hostel in<br />

one of the most fabulous<br />

locations in the world:<br />

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.<br />

Enjoy a truly unique<br />

cultural experience<br />

@Riosurfnstay<br />

Hurricane Surf Shop<br />

Established in 2001 in Durban,<br />

South Africa, Hurricane<br />

started out with the design<br />

and manufacture of ocean<br />

paddleboards, surfboards<br />

and surf accessories<br />

@hurricanesurf<br />

Let’s go Surfing<br />

Australia’s greatest surf<br />

experience on Australia’s<br />

greatest beach. Let’s go<br />

Surfing is one of Sydney’s<br />

top -three tourist activities<br />

located on Bondi Beach<br />

@LetsgoSurf


laughing matter / Dublin’s <strong>com</strong>edy scene is an antidote to the city’s economic problems<br />

a good time, they’ll be back and<br />

they’ll tell people.” The proximity<br />

and accessibility of Dublin’s<br />

<strong>com</strong>pact city centre also adds a<br />

particularly <strong>com</strong>petitive edge. As<br />

the Capital Comedy Club’s Simon<br />

O’Keefe points out, “Everything<br />

is on in a small radius in the city<br />

centre, so you have a lot of venues<br />

trying different<br />

and new things.”<br />

Not everything<br />

works, but it<br />

is this spirit of<br />

experimentalism<br />

that is keeping<br />

the scene fresh.<br />

The monthly<br />

Nighthawks caters<br />

towards the arty<br />

end of the market,<br />

with <strong>com</strong>edians<br />

rubbing shoulders<br />

with musicians,<br />

storytellers and<br />

poets. The Monthly General<br />

Meeting, an event invariably more<br />

entertaining than its name would<br />

IrIsh <strong>com</strong>edy<br />

has been<br />

grIpped by<br />

the dIy ethIc<br />

wIth youtube<br />

vIdeos and<br />

podcasts<br />

indicate, is held in a different<br />

venue every month, with locations<br />

varying from a canal boat to a<br />

gentlemen’s club to Dublin’s<br />

Unitarian Church.<br />

Irish <strong>com</strong>edy has also been<br />

gripped by the DIY ethic,<br />

with podcasts and YouTube<br />

videos increasingly essential in<br />

introducing new<br />

<strong>com</strong>edians to a<br />

wider audience.<br />

One act, Maria<br />

Boyle, even<br />

supplements her<br />

stand-up as the<br />

in-house cartoonist<br />

in the esteemed<br />

lavatories of WJ<br />

Kavanagh’s pub.<br />

Also in the DIY<br />

spirit, another<br />

recent addition<br />

to the scene has<br />

been the 10 Days<br />

in Dublin Festival, a no-budget,<br />

not-for-profit smorgasbord of<br />

arts events around the city for<br />

52<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

a week and a half every July,<br />

with <strong>com</strong>edy at its centre. A<br />

mini-Edinburgh Fringe, it has<br />

an open-access philosophy at<br />

its heart. Rob Kearns, one of its<br />

founders, explains: “We don’t<br />

decide who you should see, so<br />

we give the audience the chance.<br />

They don’t have those choices at<br />

other festivals.” In only a couple of<br />

years, it has grown exponentially,<br />

with Kearns promising this year’s<br />

edition, running from the 4th to<br />

the 13th of July, will be “Bigger,<br />

louder, and more accessible to<br />

audiences.”<br />

It is this spirit of enterprise<br />

that increasingly characterises<br />

Irish <strong>com</strong>edy. From the packed,<br />

stout-laden tables of punters to<br />

the cramped staircases that offer<br />

whispered shelter to the <strong>com</strong>edians,<br />

to the stages, large and small, where<br />

night after night they spread the<br />

simple but often undervalued gift of<br />

genuine honest laughter, Dublin’s<br />

<strong>com</strong>edy scene remains a jewel in<br />

Ireland’s slightly tarnished crown.


Matthew Lightner,<br />

executive chef at<br />

Atera, reveals his<br />

favourite places to<br />

eat out in New York<br />

L<br />

Nobu<br />

105 Hudson Street<br />

New York<br />

Tel: +1 (212) 219 0500<br />

noburestaurants.<strong>com</strong>/new-york<br />

LUNCH<br />

My favourite place for lunch is Nobu, in Tribeca. The<br />

consistency is incredible; it doesn’t matter what time<br />

of year, what time of day or what is going on, you<br />

can always expect it to be really, really good. One of<br />

the best dishes is the hamachi with jalapenos; it’s so<br />

refreshing; it has acidity, a little bit of spice to it, and<br />

the texture of the dish is really nice – it makes for<br />

great eating. The interior is the classic Nobu vibe the<br />

Rockwell group designed years ago, but it is really<br />

fun, dark, you know – a lot of Japanese influence. But<br />

it’s a great place to pop in at midday and have some<br />

sake, some hamachi, and calm down a little.<br />

D<br />

B<br />

D DINNER<br />

When it <strong>com</strong>es to dinner, it has to be Franny’s in Brooklyn.<br />

It’s a very local, very Italian-influenced place, but the<br />

level of creativity, the subtleties, the quality of the product,<br />

and the quality of the four or five ingredients that they<br />

put together – well, it’s really hard to beat for that level of<br />

food. The charcuterie is amazing, and their traditional thin<br />

pizzas are fun and fantastic. It’s a youthful crowd from the<br />

Brooklyn neighbourhood, and they serve great wine by the<br />

bottle, and the glass, which is very reasonable. The interior<br />

is casual inside; they have just moved to a new spot, but<br />

it’s still in Brooklyn. The place is perfect for the start of an<br />

evening in New York, although I could make a whole night<br />

out of it – but that’s just me.<br />

55<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

B<br />

BREAKFAST<br />

BLD<br />

Usually I only eat breakfast out on a<br />

Sunday, and it’s normally a brunch.<br />

Tertulia does a really good Spanishinfluenced<br />

brunch with an amazing<br />

range of toast with eggs on it that is just<br />

incredible. They have all kinds of different<br />

refreshments, but I usually opt for my<br />

regular Sunday drink, the Bloody Mary,<br />

or La Gilda Maria Sangriente, as it’s called<br />

in Tertulia. It has anchovy, olive, pickled<br />

piparra, vodka or gin, but they have a<br />

whole selection of Spanish wine, good<br />

beers and a big list of different cocktails to<br />

choose from. It’s a pretty youthful, lively<br />

crowd in there on a Sunday morning.<br />

L<br />

Tertulia<br />

359, 6th Avenue<br />

New York<br />

Tel: +1 (646) 559 9909<br />

tertulianyc.<strong>com</strong><br />

Franny’s<br />

348 Flatbush Avenue<br />

Brooklyn, New York<br />

Tel: +1 (718) 230 0221<br />

frannysbrooklyn.<strong>com</strong>


Nawala<br />

mapped<br />

Manila<br />

Hotels<br />

1. The Peninsula Manila<br />

14.554852,121.025447<br />

With 2. Hotel H20 a dynamic up-and-<strong>com</strong>ing 6. Wildflour art scene, Café + Bakery eclectic nightlife 10. and The Blind wel<strong>com</strong>ing Pig locals, Manila might<br />

14.579638,120.972959<br />

14.549482,121.046333<br />

14.555417,121.015634<br />

just be the most underrated city in Southeast Asia. This rapidly developing high-rise metropolis<br />

is 3. Edsa steeped Shangri-La in history, and everything 7. Sala from the cuisine to the 11. historic Museum Café hotels celebrates Manila’s<br />

15. MO Space<br />

14.58144,121.05682<br />

14.559206,121.017598<br />

14.553571,121.023276<br />

colourful past. Far from being merely a stepping-stone on the way to one of the country’s many<br />

incredible 4. Manila Hotel islands, Manila is a 8. destination La Cocina de Tita Moning in its own right and 12. Skye deserves Lounge to be explored.<br />

14.582962,120.97365<br />

14.595738,120.992575<br />

14.549238,121.052461<br />

www.Hg2.<strong>com</strong><br />

HOTELS<br />

Intramuros<br />

01. The Peninsula Manila<br />

02. Hotel H20<br />

03. EDSA Shangri-La<br />

04. Manila Hotel<br />

Sampaloc<br />

Ermita Paco<br />

Malate<br />

Pasay City<br />

Restaurants<br />

5. Abé<br />

14.549589,121.054402<br />

rESTAurAnTS<br />

Pandacan<br />

05. Abé<br />

06. Wildflour Café + Bakery<br />

07. Sala<br />

08. La Cocina de Tita Moning<br />

56<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Makati City<br />

Bars<br />

9. Opus<br />

14.518601,121.019774<br />

BArS / CLuBS<br />

09. Opus<br />

10. The Blind Pig<br />

11. Museum Café<br />

12. Skye Lounge<br />

San Juan<br />

Mandaluyong City<br />

06<br />

Taguig City<br />

GALLErIES<br />

Pateros<br />

Galleries<br />

13. The Drawing Room<br />

14.564145,121.016336<br />

14. Avellana Art Gallery<br />

14.54078,120.995264<br />

14.55029,121.050973<br />

16. Finale Art File<br />

14.544973,121.01695<br />

13. The Drawing room<br />

14. Avellana Art Gallery<br />

15. MO Space<br />

16. Finale Art File


HOTELS<br />

01 The<br />

Peninsula Manila<br />

The Peninsula<br />

Manila is the<br />

last word in<br />

old-school<br />

opulence and<br />

luxury, designed with the<br />

city’s colonial past in mind.<br />

Its grand lobby, decadent<br />

furnishings and central<br />

location make it a consistent<br />

favourite with business<br />

travellers and tourists alike.<br />

02 Hotel H20<br />

Inspired by the waters of<br />

the Philippines, Hotel H2O<br />

offers an opportunity to<br />

‘sleep with the fishes’ by<br />

lining selected bedrooms<br />

with majestic aquariums.<br />

As well as being full of<br />

character, Hotel H2O is<br />

conveniently located on the<br />

idyllic Manila Bay.<br />

03 EDSA Shangri-La<br />

Encased within a calm oasis<br />

of lush tropical gardens in<br />

the centre of Manila, the<br />

EDSA Shangri-La not only<br />

offers a pocket of peace<br />

amidst the madness of the<br />

metropolis, but it also boasts<br />

a stunning pool, spa and<br />

impeccable service too.<br />

04 Manila Hotel<br />

The oldest luxury hotel in<br />

the Philippines, the historic<br />

Manila Hotel has had over<br />

a century of practice when<br />

it <strong>com</strong>es to providing an<br />

unparalleled stay in the<br />

capital. Past guests include<br />

everyone from international<br />

diplomats to The Beatles.<br />

rESTauranTS<br />

05 Abé<br />

Known throughout Manila<br />

for its delicious traditional<br />

Filipino fare, including<br />

spectacular bamboo rice,<br />

Abé’s location in the<br />

fort at Serendra offers<br />

outdoor seating and, in the<br />

restaurant itself, a tribute to<br />

local writers and artists.<br />

06 Wildflour<br />

Café + Bakery<br />

Wildflour Café + Bakery<br />

is the new offering from<br />

chef Walter Manzke, a<br />

former student of Alain<br />

Ducasse. At one of the city’s<br />

hottest tables, expect to<br />

sample chic, contemporary<br />

cuisine and signature<br />

‘tarte flambés.’<br />

06<br />

57<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

LiquiD GoLD / Manila Bay offers some respite<br />

from the chaos of the city<br />

07 Sala<br />

A fine-dining oasis, Sala has<br />

innovative, continental cuisine and<br />

an infinitely elegant setting which<br />

ranks it as one of the most refined,<br />

romantic restaurants in Manila.<br />

Sala is conveniently located just off<br />

a bustling street in the centre<br />

of Makati.<br />

08 La Cocina de Tita Moning<br />

An exclusive, reservationsonly<br />

affair, La Cocina de Tita<br />

Moning creates an in<strong>com</strong>parable<br />

dining experience by <strong>com</strong>bining<br />

traditional Filipino food with the<br />

fascinating history of Manila in<br />

the setting of an ancestral home.<br />

04


ars / clubs<br />

09 Opus<br />

One of the city’s most<br />

popular night clubs,<br />

Opus presents an<br />

opulent, Europeanstyle<br />

setting where<br />

revellers can either<br />

dance the night away<br />

or sit back and enjoy<br />

an expertly crafted<br />

cocktail amongst<br />

Manila’s A-listers.<br />

10 The Blind Pig<br />

Manila’s first<br />

speakeasy, the<br />

Blind Pig attracts<br />

an eager crowd of<br />

cocktail aficionados<br />

to its undercover<br />

location. There’s<br />

no sign on the door<br />

and no obvious<br />

entrance, so ring<br />

the doorbell to gain<br />

admittance.<br />

11 Museum Café<br />

M Café to the locals,<br />

this edgy night-time<br />

hangout regularly<br />

hosts national and<br />

international<br />

DJs who play<br />

an eclectic mix<br />

of music to an<br />

even more eclectic,<br />

cosmopolitan crowd<br />

of night owls.<br />

12 Skye Lounge<br />

Located atop<br />

the W building,<br />

Skye Lounge is both<br />

the highest club<br />

and the first real<br />

rooftop bar in<br />

the city, offering<br />

great views<br />

and a laid-back<br />

atmosphere in<br />

which to party<br />

under the stars.<br />

14<br />

GallErIEs<br />

13 The Drawing Room<br />

Initially specialising in<br />

artworks on paper, The<br />

Drawing Room has since<br />

diversified and is now one<br />

of the most high profile<br />

spaces in Manila, renowned<br />

throughout the country as a<br />

hub for dynamic contemporary<br />

Philippine fine art.<br />

14 Avellana Art Gallery<br />

The work of both<br />

established and emerging<br />

artists is shown at<br />

Avellena Art Gallery,<br />

whose space in busy<br />

Pasay City offers a<br />

haven of provocative,<br />

avant-garde and folk<br />

art, as well as an annual<br />

printmaking exhibit.<br />

58<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

09<br />

uRBAn ReSPiTe<br />

/ Opus (above)<br />

and Museum Café<br />

(below)<br />

11<br />

15 MO Space<br />

MO Space, located in the<br />

MOS Design Building, is<br />

the Gallery to visit for<br />

exciting and experimental<br />

art in Manila, where<br />

exhibitions tend to spurn<br />

the decorative and embrace<br />

installation, both video and<br />

(occasionally) performance.<br />

16 Finale Art File<br />

One of the largest of its kind<br />

in terms of floor space and<br />

cubic area, Finale Art File is<br />

open-minded, diverse and<br />

even has its own dedicated<br />

video room for new media<br />

shows. Established in the<br />

early 1980s, it is without<br />

doubt one of the best galleries<br />

in the country today.


San Giorgio Maggiore / Venice<br />

61<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong><br />

place<br />

Gondolas point the way to San Giorgio Maggiore, which is one of most famous islands in Venice. in 982 a<br />

monastery was built on the island, and in 1566 the church of San Giorgio Maggiore was constructed, a building<br />

designed by Palladio, who is considered the most influential figure in the history of western architecture. the<br />

island is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre and the teatro Verde open-air theatre.<br />

Photo: John and tina Reid


store<br />

A<br />

short stroll east from<br />

Calle Fuencarral,<br />

Madrid’s hippest<br />

fashion street, La<br />

Duquesita, a family-owned cake<br />

and chocolate shop founded in<br />

1914, sits in the centre of a cluster<br />

of buildings embellished by quirky<br />

Modernist flourishes.<br />

Outside opening hours, when<br />

the blinds are closed, you might<br />

miss the shop. Only its name,<br />

elegantly scripted in gold on glass,<br />

and gilded details on the façade<br />

announces its presence. Close by<br />

La Duquesita<br />

Words by Vicky Hayward / Images by Pablo Herranz<br />

are showier architectural details.<br />

A few yards to the west sits the<br />

Palacio de Longoria, a weddingcake<br />

of a building swathed with<br />

creamy art nouveau swirls,<br />

garlands and rosettes. Animal<br />

motifs emerge elsewhere if you<br />

look carefully. Grey lizards slither<br />

up an apartment block at the<br />

crossroads. Penguins stand on a<br />

low cornice opposite the shop.<br />

But during opening hours<br />

La Duquesita’s double window<br />

<strong>com</strong>petes well with everything<br />

around it. Each morning the shop<br />

62<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

team lays out over six dozen kinds<br />

of small cake, chocolate, biscuit,<br />

tartlet, flaky pastry, truffle and<br />

marzipan on the marble slabs in<br />

the window. Delectable to the eye,<br />

most are Spanish in origin. There<br />

is not a cup cake in sight.<br />

“I see no sense in inventing<br />

new things,” says Luis Santamaría,<br />

pâtissier and chocolate maker,<br />

aged 63, who owns and runs<br />

the shop with Teresa, his wife.<br />

“There are so many good oldfashioned<br />

cakes we cannot fit in<br />

the window.”


Dark and cool, the shop’s<br />

interior is a respite from the<br />

bright street. Here you can<br />

breathe in cake-making aromas,<br />

enjoy a coffee and gaze at large<br />

cakes laid out in brass-trimmed<br />

chiller cabinets. Overlooking it<br />

all, on an iron bracket nailed to<br />

a central column, sits a small<br />

alabaster duchess, la duquesita.<br />

Luis’s family came to own<br />

the shop unexpectedly. When<br />

Roque Pérez, the pastry cook<br />

who founded it, died in the<br />

1920s, his widow asked Luis’s<br />

pastry power / The bakery has survived the Spanish Civil War and the Second World War<br />

grandfather, Romualdo, once the<br />

shop’s apprentice, to take on the<br />

business. He kept the shop going,<br />

without a pause, right through the<br />

Spanish Civil War and the years<br />

of hunger that followed. In 1936,<br />

at the start of the war, a passer-by<br />

entered the shop and attacked<br />

the little duchess, knocking off<br />

her head. Romualdo stuck it<br />

back on and carried on baking.<br />

For three decades of austerity,<br />

the shop’s original furnishings<br />

were kept immaculately polished<br />

and dusted.<br />

63<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Luis began to help out as a<br />

teenager, after school, delivering<br />

cakes on foot to local clients.<br />

Later he learned his double<br />

craft, as pâtissier and chocolate<br />

maker, working alongside his<br />

grandfather and father in the<br />

shop’s basement. Today he leads<br />

a team of four who still make<br />

the cakes and chocolates in the<br />

underground workshop. When<br />

Luis married Teresa in 1987,<br />

she joined the shop team. Every<br />

morning she lays out the cakes in<br />

the window.


Sweet tooth / Luis and<br />

Teresa and some of the<br />

creations they stock<br />

“Coming to the business from<br />

another world, I could see the<br />

art behind the craft,” she says. “I<br />

wanted to help Luis protect that.<br />

In the shop we always explain to<br />

customers what goes into each<br />

cake or chocolate, exactly how<br />

each of them is made, so they can<br />

understand what we do.”<br />

But La Duquesita has not<br />

be<strong>com</strong>e a heritage spot. That is<br />

one of its charms. Instead Luis<br />

and Teresa run it as a family<br />

business, part of everyday life in<br />

the barrio, or quarter. Neighbours<br />

drop by for a late-breakfast cake<br />

and coffee. Well-known figures on<br />

a working visit to the Palacio de<br />

Longoria, home to Spanish artists’<br />

copyright association, may be seen<br />

emerging, cake box in hand. In the<br />

1920s, Concha Piquer, queen of<br />

popular song, was a client. Today<br />

film-maker Pedro Almodóvar,<br />

writer Almudena Grandes and<br />

footballer Xabi Alonso are regular<br />

visitors. Other clients may make<br />

a long journey here for a tray-full<br />

of cakes that have disappeared<br />

elsewhere. Everyone is treated<br />

the same way. There is always<br />

time for a chat. Only pets are<br />

turned away.<br />

Luis is evidently a virtuoso, but a<br />

reluctant one. His modesty shapes<br />

a house style based on respect for<br />

time-honoured formulas. The shop<br />

displays plenty of old-fashioned<br />

saint’s day cakes, but few avantgarde<br />

creations. Butter biscuits<br />

are baked for San Anton’s day in<br />

January, when animals are blessed<br />

at the local church. Luscious<br />

almond meringues called suspiros<br />

de modistilla, little dressmaker’s<br />

sighs, appear in the window in <strong>June</strong><br />

in time for San Antonio, the feast<br />

day of the dressmakers’ patron<br />

saint. As autumn turns to winter,<br />

little huesos de santo, or saints’<br />

bones – marzipan rolls – are made<br />

for All Saints’ Day. Come Christmas<br />

and queues stretch down the<br />

pavement for the shop’s nougats<br />

and marzipan eels.<br />

64<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Luis says that La Duquesita’s<br />

cakes and chocolates are made<br />

special by their raw materials.<br />

“The arrival of quality conched<br />

chocolate in Spain after the<br />

war was our greatest new<br />

opportunity,” he says. He lays<br />

as much importance on that as<br />

the arrival of refrigeration in the<br />

1960s. You can taste this quality.<br />

If you are given a paper-wrapped<br />

packet of the shop’s chocolates,<br />

like its orange-zest naranjines, you<br />

notice the dark, rich chocolate<br />

from supreme French supplier<br />

Valrhona. The orange zest in the<br />

naranjines, lightly bitter, is homemade.<br />

“Sometimes good natural<br />

products can be difficult to buy at<br />

any price,” says Luis. “So then we<br />

have to make them.” Even in the<br />

current economic crisis there is no<br />

cost-cutting or time-saving here.<br />

That, of course, implies<br />

sacrifice. Luis and Teresa work six<br />

days a week, including Sundays.<br />

“But it is not an effort,” says<br />

Teresa. “It <strong>com</strong>es naturally, part of<br />

what the family has handed down.<br />

You might call it knowing how<br />

to do things well.” Luis’s father<br />

earned recognition for that. He<br />

won international <strong>com</strong>petitions.<br />

“But Luis is more like his<br />

grandfather,” says Teresa. “His<br />

motto is, el premio es el publico<br />

todos los días.” The prize is the<br />

public <strong>com</strong>ing every day.<br />

La Duquesita, Calle Fernando VI, 2,<br />

28004 Madrid, Spain<br />

Tel: +34 913 08 02 31


The eyes of the world are on Istanbul;<br />

The eyes of Istanbul are on Valle Lacus.<br />

In Istanbul, one of the world’s most vibrant<br />

cities, forty-four lakeside villas with private<br />

pools as part of a 2,000 m2 plot, on a total<br />

area of 110,000 m2 - this is Valle Lacus.<br />

Just 25 minutes from the world’s biggest<br />

airport project, why don’t you take your<br />

place in Valle Lacus?<br />

Valle Lacus: easy to live in, hard to describe.<br />

A unique and natural way of life in Istanbul;<br />

As intelligent as it is beautiful.<br />

Klassis Golf &<br />

Country Club<br />

Hazerfen<br />

Airport<br />

E-5 Motorway<br />

Büyükçekmece<br />

Lake<br />

Marina<br />

+90 212 283 01 01<br />

www.vallelacus.<strong>com</strong><br />

www.klk.<strong>com</strong>.tr | www.kulakco.<strong>com</strong>.tr<br />

All rights regarding changes in the project, are reserved by KLK Construction Co.<br />

TEM<br />

Endem<br />

TV<br />

Tower<br />

Beylikdüzü<br />

Windsurf Club<br />

K9 Horse Club<br />

Fatih<br />

University<br />

• Büyükçekmece<br />

TEM<br />

Had›mköy<br />

Exit<br />

Mercedes<br />

Campus<br />

TÜYAP<br />

Int’l Fair Area<br />

MİGROS 5M<br />

Mall<br />

• Beylikdüzü<br />

Marmara Sea<br />

3rd Airport<br />

HUB<br />

Bauhaus<br />

Marmara Park<br />

Malls<br />

Küçükçekmece<br />

Lake<br />

Bahçeflehir<br />

• Küçükçekmece<br />

• Yeşilköy<br />

Atatürk<br />

Airport<br />

Olympic<br />

Stadium<br />

Trans European<br />

Motorway<br />

• Bakırköy


City Visions<br />

Matthias Heiderich’s portraits of<br />

the city of Dubai<br />

(p92)<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Main<br />

68<br />

superman<br />

Can The<br />

Man of Steel<br />

be rebooted<br />

successfully?<br />

82<br />

Foster<br />

An intimate<br />

interview with<br />

the architect<br />

and curator


movies<br />

The Secret Life


Of Superman<br />

With the release this month of Zack Snyder’s Man Of Steel,<br />

Adam Smith looks at the behind-the-scenes problems that<br />

made the first Superman movie such a gamble


flyer / Christopher<br />

Reeve is, for most, the<br />

most convincing actor to<br />

play Superman<br />

70<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong>


One day towards the end<br />

of March 1977, film director<br />

Richard Donner<br />

sat at a table to the side<br />

of a vast soundstage at Pinewood<br />

Studios, England. On one side of<br />

him was producer Pierre Spengler,<br />

an employee of Alexander and Ilya<br />

Salkind, the father-and-son production<br />

team who had raised the<br />

$50 million needed to bring Superman:<br />

The Movie to the big screen.<br />

Opposite them was Marlon Brando,<br />

the legendary method actor who<br />

had recently won an Oscar for his<br />

performance in The Godfather, and<br />

was now one of the highest-paid<br />

movie actors of all time, having<br />

taken a full $3.7 million of the Salkinds’<br />

money to spend a mere ten<br />

days playing the role of Jor-El, Superman’s<br />

father. Brando, fresh off a<br />

plane, had been surveying the giant<br />

Planet Krypton set, and examining<br />

the costumes manufactured from<br />

cutting-edge reflective materials<br />

produced by 3M at extraordinary<br />

cost, one of which he was scheduled<br />

to don when he began filming<br />

the next day.<br />

“I think that Jor-El should<br />

not look like the other people on<br />

Krypton,” he finally mused. “I think<br />

maybe he should appear as a kind<br />

of giant bagel.”<br />

Spengler began to gibber<br />

slightly. He and Donner had already<br />

heard rumours that Brando had<br />

discussed plans to play the role as<br />

“a green suitcase” in New York, and<br />

this new bagel development did<br />

nothing to set his mind at rest. But<br />

Donner was a pro and had dealt with<br />

difficult stars before. He kicked<br />

Spengler under the table, smiled and<br />

nodded. What neither knew was that<br />

Donner had called Apocalypse Now<br />

director Francis Ford Coppola the<br />

previous day to ask how best to<br />

handle Brando. Coppola’s advice<br />

had been simply to let the actor<br />

talk, and finally he would <strong>com</strong>e back<br />

round to the director’s idea, once he<br />

had convinced himself that it was, in<br />

fact, his own.<br />

More pressing for Donner was<br />

the fact that, even at this early stage,<br />

he and Spengler’s relationship was<br />

strained, to say the least. The director<br />

had <strong>com</strong>e aboard a mere 11<br />

weeks before, after the original<br />

director had dropped out and had<br />

found a production in utter disarray.<br />

He blamed much of it on Spengler.<br />

“They had wasted an entire year’s<br />

pre-production,” he later said, remembering<br />

his shock.<br />

The screenplay weighed in at a<br />

gargantuan 500 pages – more than<br />

twice as long as it needed to be, and<br />

packed with bad gags that had to<br />

be stripped out (at one point Superman<br />

had swooped down on to<br />

the Metropolis streets only to encounter<br />

a lollipop-sucking Kojak,<br />

much to Donner’s disgust). Even<br />

Superman’s boots were wrong.<br />

And, vitally, he didn’t have a clue<br />

how he was going to live up to what<br />

would be the movie’s legendary<br />

poster tag line: “You’ll believe a<br />

man can fly.”<br />

Marlon Brando, he was already<br />

beginning to suspect, would turn<br />

out to be the least of his worries.<br />

The first time the world met<br />

Superman in January 1933, he was<br />

not a man of steel battling for truth,<br />

justice and the American way, but<br />

a bald, thin-fingered super villain<br />

bent on world domination. Reign<br />

of The Superman, a story in Science<br />

Fiction, was the work of Jerry<br />

Siegel and Joe Shuster, a pair of<br />

young <strong>com</strong>ic book fans, and was<br />

part of their campaign to break into<br />

what was then a booming industry.<br />

The pair had met at school, where<br />

Siegel’s interest in writing science<br />

fiction and adventure stories, and<br />

Shuster’s skills in illustrating them,<br />

led to a fruitful artistic partnership.<br />

But soon after he had invented the<br />

character, Siegel began to imagine<br />

him not as a clichéd villain, but as<br />

a new kind of benevolent character.<br />

Around him the misery and<br />

hardship of the Great Depression<br />

seemed to call for an individual<br />

with incredible powers, but who<br />

71<br />

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used them not to terrify and subjugate<br />

humanity, but to help it, to<br />

show mankind what it could be at<br />

its best. He would be a new kind of<br />

hero. A superhero.<br />

Thus, in <strong>June</strong> 1938, Superman<br />

made his debut in Action Comics<br />

#1 (now worth a cool $2 million,<br />

if you happen to find one in the<br />

attic). Then unable to fly – instead<br />

he “leapt tall buildings in a single<br />

bound!” – he was, nevertheless, an<br />

immediate hit, and within months<br />

it had spawned a syndicated news<br />

strip and a radio series that boasted<br />

20 million avid listeners. But while<br />

Superman became an indelible part<br />

of American popular culture, his<br />

fortunes on the big screen were<br />

initially more uncertain. The pulpy<br />

Brando said<br />

he thought<br />

Superman’s<br />

father should<br />

appear on<br />

screen as a<br />

giant bagel<br />

nature of the source material led<br />

Hollywood to all but ignore the<br />

character, and what it did produce<br />

was aimed squarely at the undiscerning<br />

kiddie market. A couple<br />

of Saturday serials were produced<br />

in the 1940s while Superman And<br />

The Mole Men, made in 1951, and<br />

starring George Reeves – later<br />

murdered; he became the first victim<br />

of the so-called curse of Superman<br />

– was, at 58 minutes long,<br />

hardly a movie at all.<br />

All that changed in 1973 when<br />

Ilya Salkind, then in Paris, walked<br />

past a poster for the French version<br />

of Zorro, starring Gallic superstar<br />

Alain Delon. Looking at<br />

the heroic figure in his billowing<br />

cape, Ilya thought of the Superman


making the cut / Marlon Brando and Richard Donner (centre left and<br />

right) before the filming of the first Superman movie<br />

<strong>com</strong>ics he had read as a boy. Often<br />

called the ultimate immigrant,<br />

the character reflected the young<br />

man’s early experiences and sense<br />

of optimism in <strong>com</strong>ing to a new<br />

country from Mexico, where he<br />

had been born, as it had millions<br />

of other Americans.<br />

The Salkinds <strong>com</strong>missioned a<br />

screenplay from Mario Puzo, who<br />

had received an Oscar for his script<br />

for The Godfather. Puzo was initially<br />

sceptical: who could take a man<br />

in tights flying around, bouncing<br />

bullets off his chest seriously? But<br />

then he spent a few days at DC’s<br />

headquarters going through past<br />

adventures. A pair of young DC<br />

writers, one of whom was the<br />

renowned Elliot S. Maggin, then<br />

heavily involved with writing the<br />

character, guided him through the<br />

material and answered his questions<br />

– when, that was, they could<br />

see the portly Italian through the<br />

fug of Havana smoke.<br />

They explained that Kal-El was<br />

a refugee from a doomed world, an<br />

orphan condemned to be forever<br />

in love with a woman to whom he<br />

could not reveal his true identity.<br />

“Mario’s eyes began to light up,”<br />

Maggin remembered. “He said<br />

‘Wow, this is a great tragedy!’”<br />

Now understanding the heart of<br />

Eastwood,<br />

Redford and<br />

Muhammad<br />

Ali had been<br />

considered for<br />

the role of<br />

Superman<br />

the character, Puzo headed to his<br />

typewriter and started hammering<br />

out pages.<br />

For a director, the producers<br />

originally went to Guy Hamilton,<br />

veteran of the James Bond movies<br />

and thus someone used to handling<br />

vast, physically <strong>com</strong>plicated<br />

productions. But Hamilton had<br />

dropped out when the production<br />

shifted from Italy to England at<br />

the last minute, which is when<br />

Richard Donner got a call in<br />

Hollywood. It was his agent:<br />

“Boy have I got a great deal for<br />

you,” he said. It was not until<br />

later that he revealed that<br />

there was a mere 11 weeks to go until<br />

shooting started at Pinewood,<br />

and that the screenplay might<br />

need a <strong>com</strong>plete rewrite.<br />

72<br />

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Donner immediately realised<br />

that casting Superman/Clark Kent<br />

was going to be key to the film’s<br />

success, and that the Salkinds’ aim<br />

of luring a big star for the role was<br />

all wrong. Robert Redford, Clint<br />

Eastwood, and even Muhammad<br />

Ali, had all been in the mix at one<br />

point or another. But Donner<br />

wasn’t interested. When audiences<br />

looked at the screen, he explained<br />

to the Salkinds, he wanted them<br />

to see Superman, not some big<br />

name playing Superman. Having<br />

already dropped nearly $4 million<br />

on Brando and another $2 million<br />

on Gene Hackman to play Lex<br />

Luthor, any objections from the<br />

bottom-line watching producers<br />

was muted.<br />

Thus legendary casting director<br />

Lynn Stalmaster was charged with<br />

finding a new<strong>com</strong>er. Christopher<br />

Reeve, a twenty-something stage<br />

actor based in New York didn’t at<br />

first impress Donner, who was looking<br />

for someone to play a 35-yearold.<br />

“He was on the young side, and<br />

skinny,” he remembered later.<br />

Finally, having found no one<br />

in the right age bracket, Donner<br />

decided to make the character<br />

younger, and Reeve persuaded him<br />

he could put on the necessary bulk.<br />

“I took a gamble,” he said. “But<br />

when I go back and look at those<br />

old stills of Chris, I tell you it was<br />

blind faith.”<br />

“That’s it?” yelled an incredulous<br />

Donner. “You mean that’s<br />

all!” He had been called to the 007<br />

soundstage, named after the superspy,<br />

and the largest in Europe, to<br />

examine the technology that would<br />

create many of the flying effects<br />

vital to the film’s success. In front<br />

of him a pair of beefy grips were<br />

yanking on a rope with all the grace<br />

of hod carriers on unpaid overtime.<br />

Above them, on a clearly visible<br />

wire, dangled a nervous-looking<br />

Christopher Reeve. The equipment<br />

was exactly the same kind that had<br />

been used for decades to whizz<br />

actors around the stage in Britain’s


yearly Christmas pantomimes, a<br />

fact that explained why, for the moment,<br />

Reeve, who had succeeded<br />

in piling on 30lbs of muscle, resembled<br />

neither a bird, nor a plane.<br />

Instead he looked like a steroidal<br />

Peter Pan.<br />

It was months since the<br />

Brando meeting, and the legendary<br />

thespian was long gone.<br />

In fact, he had turned out to be<br />

something of a joy to work with,<br />

despite the Salkinds and Donner<br />

fretting about whether the ten<br />

days he had been contracted for<br />

would be enough to get his scenes<br />

finished. (“It cost me money<br />

every time he went to the can,”<br />

Donner later recalled.) Since then<br />

the true, utterly terrifying scale of<br />

the project had be<strong>com</strong>e apparent.<br />

The Salkinds had determined that<br />

Donner would in fact shoot not<br />

one, but two movies, Superman<br />

and its sequel, simultaneously.<br />

Thus a morning’s shooting in<br />

the Fortress of Solitude set for the<br />

first movie would, after the set was<br />

redressed, and actors’ hairstyles<br />

and costumes subtly altered, be followed<br />

with an afternoon’s shooting<br />

for its sequel. Keeping track had<br />

be<strong>com</strong>e a nightmare. The budget<br />

was out of control, release dates<br />

had already been missed – and then<br />

there was the flying.<br />

“Nobody knew how to go about<br />

it,” Donner said. What’s more,<br />

there was no way of cheating the<br />

scenes by loading them with distracting<br />

special effects. “No lights<br />

shot out of his ass, and there was<br />

no noise to dazzle the audience’s<br />

senses, it’s just simply a guy flying.<br />

And boy was it difficult.”<br />

These days digital effects would<br />

easily have solved the problem. But<br />

in the mid-1970s, they were still<br />

years away. Donner and his team<br />

had investigated all manner of<br />

techniques for making Superman<br />

airborne. Skydiving had been proposed,<br />

and rejected, at one point, no<br />

doubt to Christopher Reeve’s relief.<br />

Stuntmen were swung from 300ft<br />

cranes behind vast scale models<br />

constructed on the Pinewood back<br />

lot; the ‘miniature’ Golden Gate<br />

Bridge alone was 60ft long.<br />

Rescue finally came in the shape<br />

of optical effects genius Zoran<br />

Perisic. After months of trials Perisic<br />

developed what he christened<br />

the Zoptic system, an insanely<br />

<strong>com</strong>plicated way of projecting a<br />

background plate behind Reeve,<br />

which allowed the camera to move<br />

around him in synchrony with the<br />

image. But the biggest challenge<br />

was what seemed during production<br />

meetings to have been a minor<br />

detail, something that no one had<br />

really thought about, Superman’s<br />

iconic red cape. “That cape was a<br />

pain!” Donner remembered. “We<br />

It had be<strong>com</strong>e<br />

a nightmare,<br />

the budget<br />

was out of<br />

control and<br />

release dates<br />

were missed<br />

spent months getting our first flying<br />

shot, and then something just<br />

didn’t look right about it. It was the<br />

cape, it didn’t move right. We tried<br />

everything, bottled air, electronics,<br />

finally someone came up with the<br />

idea of wiring the cape inside like<br />

an umbrella, which we could control<br />

with little gears. We had about<br />

50 different capes.”<br />

After five months, Donner could<br />

finally sign off on the first flying sequence.<br />

Finally at least he believed<br />

a man could fly.<br />

Meanwhile, relations between<br />

Donner and the Salkinds, whom<br />

Donner had begun openly referring<br />

to as “the idiots”, had all but<br />

broken down. What Donner saw<br />

as their continual interference and<br />

73<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

inspired choice<br />

/ Reeve on<br />

set in the first<br />

Superman movie,<br />

which exceeded<br />

all expectations


inexperience, together with their<br />

reliance on Spengler, was be<strong>com</strong>ing<br />

intolerable.<br />

“They tried to fire me many,<br />

many times,” he said. “But by then<br />

Warner Brothers had gotten involved<br />

in the distribution and they<br />

had director approval. It was me,<br />

William Friedkin [director of The<br />

Exorcist] or Spielberg.”<br />

But if the Salkinds couldn’t<br />

fire Donner, they could hire<br />

whomever they wanted. Thus the<br />

harassed director was surprised,<br />

to say the least, when Richard<br />

Lester, a British director best known<br />

for helming the Beatles’ movies Help!<br />

and A Hard Day’s Night, turned up at<br />

Pinewood. Describing himself as a<br />

go-between between Donner, Spengler<br />

and the Salkinds, he was at pains<br />

to reassure the director that he was<br />

not there to replace him.<br />

“I didn’t trust him, and I told<br />

him so,” Donner said. He would<br />

have good reason for his qualms.<br />

Face oFF / Brandon<br />

Routh and George Reeves<br />

both played Superman<br />

with varying success<br />

Superman The Movie was finally<br />

released in time for Christmas<br />

1978 to almost universal critical<br />

acclaim and box-office glory. It finally<br />

grossed $132 million in the<br />

US alone. Donner had perfectly<br />

crystallised on film the delicate<br />

amalgam of romance, tragedy and<br />

action that had entranced fans ever<br />

since the 1930s. But as well as the<br />

box-office and critical plaudits,<br />

perhaps the best proof of Donner<br />

and Reeve’s singular achievement<br />

has been the apparent impossibility<br />

of recapturing its magic. Richard<br />

Lester’s sequel (Donner was indeed<br />

fired shortly after the film’s<br />

release), in which Terence Stamp<br />

chewed scenery as Kryptonian super<br />

villain General Zod, is perfectly<br />

acceptable, but the bulk of the film<br />

had, after all, been conceived and<br />

shot by Donner. But by the third<br />

film the air of verisimilitude and<br />

carefully nurtured character-based<br />

romance had all but vanished, be-<br />

75<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Superman IV<br />

was a disaster,<br />

a mixture of<br />

Cold War<br />

posturing<br />

and terrible<br />

set pieces<br />

ing replaced by a crass, broad-brush<br />

zaniness, primarily in the unwel<strong>com</strong>e<br />

shape of Richard Pryor, the<br />

fading stand-up <strong>com</strong>edian whose<br />

performance was not improved<br />

by his prodigiously indulged drug<br />

habit.<br />

Then there is Superman IV: The<br />

Quest For Peace. After the critical<br />

failure of Superman III the Salkinds<br />

offloaded the rights to the character<br />

to Cannon Films, an Israeli<br />

production <strong>com</strong>pany notorious for


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The huge<br />

success of<br />

the Batman<br />

reboot paved<br />

the way for<br />

Zack Synder’s<br />

version of The<br />

Man of Steel<br />

cutting budgets and corners. Lured<br />

back by a pay offer of $4 million<br />

(the most he had ever received),<br />

Reeve also demanded script input,<br />

and unwisely transformed the film<br />

into a kind of po-faced lecture on<br />

the evils of the Cold War. He also<br />

introduced the series’ most forgettable<br />

villain, Nuclear Man, played<br />

by ex-Chippendale stripper and oil<br />

rig worker Mark Pillow, whose career,<br />

sadly, progressed no further.<br />

After the catastrophic performance<br />

of The Quest For Peace<br />

subsequent attempts to revive the<br />

character all fizzled. In the mid-<br />

1990s, Kevin Smith, slacker darling<br />

of Clerks fame, was hired to write<br />

a screenplay titled Superman Lives,<br />

in which Ka-El, played by Nicolas<br />

Cage, would wear an all-black suit,<br />

be unable to fly and battle a giant<br />

spider. That screenplay hit the<br />

shredder once Tim Burton came<br />

on board to direct, and finally the<br />

whole project was abandoned over<br />

spiralling costs. Superman, Flyby<br />

was Lost creator J.J. Abrams attempt<br />

to relaunch the franchise,<br />

which itself was rapidly replaced<br />

by Superman vs Batman, an idea<br />

that seemed to have more to do<br />

with the dollar signs spinning in the<br />

merchandising managers’ eyes than<br />

anything else. It in turn was ditched<br />

when the studio resurrected Flyby<br />

after Abrams submitted a new script<br />

the studio liked better.<br />

But in 2006 Bryan Singer,<br />

who had earned both critical acclaim<br />

for The Usual Suspects and<br />

fanboy devotion for his X-Men<br />

films finally managed to get a Superman<br />

movie onto the screen.<br />

Superman Returns with Brandon<br />

Routh super-suited and booted<br />

was a modest hit, and recreated a<br />

little of the romantic atmosphere<br />

and unapologetic optimism of<br />

Donner’s classic, but it never quite<br />

77<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Pretender<br />

/ British actor<br />

Henry Cavill<br />

will hope he can<br />

follow Christian<br />

Bale’s portrayal<br />

of Batman<br />

captured the public imagination,<br />

or its wallet, in the way Singer had<br />

hoped. Plans for a sequel were put<br />

on indefinite hold.<br />

But the astonishing success of<br />

Christopher Nolan’s Batman movies<br />

– the final film in the trilogy, The<br />

Dark Knight Rises, earned Warner<br />

Bros an astonishing $1 billion – together<br />

with the studio’s immediate<br />

need to launch another superhero<br />

franchise, now that the Caped Crusader<br />

has hung up his cowl, probably<br />

explains the fact that Zack Snyder’s<br />

Man Of Steel, due for worldwide<br />

release this month – with British<br />

actor Henry Cavill in the title role –<br />

has had a much smoother run than<br />

any previous attempt. Plot details<br />

are scarce, though the villain of the<br />

piece is General Zod, played by Michael<br />

Shannon, and early trailers<br />

point to an origins story with Clark<br />

Kent discovering his powers while<br />

being pursued around the world<br />

by feisty reporter Lois Lane (Amy<br />

Adams). Only time will tell whether,<br />

as a generation did a quarter of a<br />

century ago, we’ll once again believe<br />

a man can fly.<br />

Adam Smith is a senior writer for<br />

Empire Magazine in London


Skyward Bound<br />

David Scowsill is a man on a mission – to explain to world<br />

leaders the benefits of tourism. Noah Davis talks to the<br />

President and CEO of the World Travel & Tourism Council about<br />

travel, economics, and the importance of tourism<br />

David Scowsill<br />

spends much<br />

of his time<br />

doing what<br />

he does best:<br />

travelling. The<br />

University of<br />

Southampton educated executive<br />

spends his days, like many highpowered<br />

businessmen and women<br />

in the Internet Age, jetting around<br />

the world, bouncing from Britain<br />

to Rio de Janeiro to Dubai to New<br />

York City and back again. “It’s too<br />

much, about three weeks a month,”<br />

he says with a laugh as he sits in a<br />

flat that looks as if it gets little use.<br />

We are talking via Skype, stealing a<br />

few moments in his busy schedule.<br />

Scowsill has just returned from a<br />

meeting in Hanover, Germany and<br />

needs to leave for London soon but<br />

takes the time to chat about travel.<br />

This is what he does.<br />

As president and CEO of the<br />

World Travel & Tourism Council<br />

(WTTC), Scowsill oversees an organisation<br />

responsible for reminding<br />

countries about the massive<br />

economic benefits of allowing easy<br />

access to visitors. He is the fourth<br />

CEO in the group’s 23-year history<br />

and a man with a long history<br />

in all areas of the industry. In his<br />

current position, he is responsible<br />

for turning the thoughts, hopes<br />

and dreams of over 100 CEOs and<br />

chairman including Wyndham<br />

Worldwide’s Stephen P. Homes,<br />

The Travel Corporation’s Brett<br />

Tolman, and American Express’<br />

William Glenn into a coherent<br />

strategy that advocates for tourism<br />

and travel. Gary Chapman, President<br />

Group Services & dnata at the<br />

<strong>Emirates</strong> Group, serves on the Ex-<br />

78<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

ecutive Committee. Membership<br />

of the WTTC is by invitation only.<br />

Recently, his mission has included<br />

directly lobbying some of<br />

the most powerful people in the<br />

world. In conjunction with the<br />

United Nations World Travel Organisation<br />

(UNWTO), the WTTC<br />

developed the Global Leaders for<br />

Tourism Campaign. Scowsill and<br />

UNWTO secretary-general Taleb<br />

Rifai, representing the private and<br />

public sectors, respectively, are<br />

on a nearly non-stop trip. “We go<br />

on the road to talk to presidents<br />

and prime minsters directly about<br />

the impact of the industry. We<br />

have to get through to the heads<br />

of state to make significant things<br />

happen about visas, taxation, air<br />

traffic control, and other issues,”<br />

Scowsill says. “We lecture them<br />

politely about four or five things


they need to understand, which<br />

could be anything from bilateral<br />

visa agreements and open skies to<br />

investment in hotels or whatever<br />

the cruise lines need. We give lots<br />

of very, very specific messages.”<br />

They also inform world leaders<br />

about some fun facts. “The<br />

prime minister of Japan was really<br />

shocked to understand that the<br />

travel and tourism industry was<br />

much bigger than the automotive<br />

industry,” Scowsill says.<br />

So far, the pair has met with<br />

48 heads of state. Sometimes the<br />

change they lobby for <strong>com</strong>es nearly<br />

instantaneously. “We went to see<br />

the King of Jordan,” Scowsill says.<br />

“Before we started talking to him,<br />

he said ‘I know what you’ve <strong>com</strong>e<br />

to talk to me about. It’s my tax,<br />

my visas, isn’t it?’ We said, ‘yes,<br />

Your Highness.’ After 30 minutes<br />

with him, he sent us directly to<br />

see the finance minster who was<br />

just about to double the sales tax<br />

from 8 percent to 16 per cent. We<br />

stopped him from doing it. We<br />

asked for some time to prove to<br />

him through statistical modelling<br />

that it would hurt the economy.”<br />

The group did. The WTTC<br />

holds that there are massive,<br />

far-reaching economic benefits<br />

to travel and tourism, and its research<br />

supports those claims.<br />

According to a WTTC study, the<br />

industry directly contributed $2<br />

trillion to the world’s GDP in 2011<br />

and 100 million jobs in 2012. When<br />

more indirect measures are taken<br />

into account, those figures jump to<br />

$6.5 trillion and 260 million jobs.<br />

And there are no signs of slowing<br />

down. In a decade, WTTC predicts<br />

travel and tourism will represent<br />

$10.5 trillion – roughly 10<br />

per cent of global GDP – and one<br />

in 10 jobs. Additionally, according<br />

to another study, more than<br />

three billion people will qualify as<br />

middle class by 2050, dramatically<br />

increasing the potential amount of<br />

money that can be spent on travel<br />

and tourism.<br />

Tourism<br />

contributed<br />

more than $2<br />

trillion to the<br />

global economy<br />

in 2011<br />

At a recent G20 summit, world<br />

leaders agreed with WTTC’s<br />

thesis, formally recognising the<br />

ability of travel and tourism to<br />

drive jobs, growth and economic<br />

recovery. In the 25th point of a<br />

85-point Leaders’ Declaration,<br />

79<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

the group wrote, “We recognise<br />

the role of travel and tourism as a<br />

vehicle for job creation, economic<br />

growth and development, and,<br />

while recognising the sovereign<br />

right of states to control the entry<br />

of foreign nationals, we will work<br />

towards developing travel facilitation<br />

initiatives in support of job<br />

creation, quality work, poverty reduction<br />

and global growth.”<br />

The existence of WTTC may<br />

seem unnecessary – doesn’t travel<br />

and tourism simply carry on? – but<br />

Scowsill agues that the efforts of<br />

his group are vital. “Travel and<br />

tourism is taken for granted, particularly<br />

by the US and Europe.<br />

The politicians only wake up<br />

and pay attention when there is<br />

hot seat / Scowsill<br />

travels the world<br />

informing leaders of<br />

the importance of<br />

tourism


a disaster, like 9/11, a SARS epidemic<br />

or an ash cloud in Europe.<br />

Suddenly, everything stops. The<br />

hotels are empty. The planes<br />

aren’t flying,” he says. One of the<br />

WTTC’s major goals is to facilitate<br />

the ease of travel for all citizens of<br />

the world. Scowsill addressed the<br />

issue in his closing speech at the<br />

recently <strong>com</strong>pleted 13th Annual<br />

Global Summit in Abu Dhabi. “Too<br />

many people still find it too <strong>com</strong>plex<br />

and too difficult to cross borders<br />

as international tourists. Governments<br />

need to balance security<br />

needs with a change in mindset<br />

and implement visa waiver and<br />

trusted traveller programmes,” he<br />

said. “The travel and tourism industry<br />

needs to continue to lobby<br />

for change and demonstrate to individual<br />

countries the economic<br />

opportunities, which will be generated,<br />

through improvements to<br />

visa processes.”<br />

He continued about the importance<br />

of open travel regulations, saying<br />

that “WTTC will develop finance<br />

models over the next 12 months that<br />

will demonstrate, country by country,<br />

the negative economic impact<br />

on travel and tourism of punitive<br />

taxation on travellers.<br />

China looks<br />

set to overtake<br />

the US<br />

as the largest<br />

tourism economy<br />

by the<br />

end of <strong>2013</strong><br />

This data will be used to show<br />

government leaders that taxing<br />

the tourist does not lead to positive<br />

economic growth – in fact, it<br />

leads to the opposite.”<br />

The conference also touched on<br />

another important theme for the<br />

WTTC: sustainability. “Tourism for<br />

Tomorrow is how we summarise<br />

our concerns for the future of the<br />

travel and tourism sector, and how<br />

we act to ensure our children, and<br />

our childrens’ children have the<br />

ability to have their lives enriched<br />

by the ability to travel and understand<br />

the world,” the group’s website<br />

says. To that end, actress Daryl<br />

Hannah and environmentalist Sir<br />

Jonathon Porritt, spoke about sus-<br />

80<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

tainability at the <strong>2013</strong> Summit.<br />

The WTTC isn’t afraid to use<br />

its reach and access to show off a<br />

little star power, either. Bill Clinton,<br />

42nd President of the United<br />

States and the founder of the William<br />

J. Clinton Foundation, keynoted<br />

the event, speaking about<br />

leadership and the industry’s<br />

place in the world. He wowed the<br />

audience with his trademark genial<br />

manner and with a few shocking<br />

facts, including that the total<br />

weight of humans on earth is less<br />

than the total weight of ants.<br />

The issue of sustainability and<br />

travel is one for the entire sector to<br />

tackle collectively, and the WTTC<br />

wants to lead the way. “The industry<br />

needs to work together to<br />

drive investment in infrastructure,<br />

which is conducive to sustainable<br />

growth, not just now, but for the<br />

next 10, 25, even 50 years in order<br />

to ensure that travel and tourism<br />

continues to make a vital economic<br />

contribution to global GDP<br />

and jobs and that the new wave<br />

of middle class consumers from<br />

emerging markets can cross borders<br />

with ease,” Scowsill said in his<br />

closing speech.<br />

Much of the growth in the<br />

<strong>com</strong>ing years will <strong>com</strong>e from the<br />

exploding economies in Asia,<br />

with China overtaking the United<br />

States as the largest travel and<br />

tourism economy by the end of<br />

<strong>2013</strong>, according to WTTC projections.<br />

Two-thirds of the 70 million<br />

jobs added in the next decade will<br />

<strong>com</strong>e in Asia.<br />

With that in mind, the WTTC<br />

will continue to focus on the East.<br />

In September, the organisation will<br />

host a Pan-Asian summit in Seoul.<br />

Sanya, a prefectural level city in<br />

southern China will host the 2014<br />

summit. The locations mean more<br />

long flights for Scowsill and his<br />

associates. Of course, he wouldn’t<br />

have it any other way<br />

Noah Davis is a writer based in<br />

Brooklyn, New York


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BOLD.SMOOTH.CLASSIC.<br />

SPECIAL EDITION<br />

TENNESSEE WHISKEY


PROFILE<br />

The ArT<br />

AT The heArT<br />

Of NOrmAN fOsTer


Norman Foster is an architectural<br />

giant, but ahead of an exhibition of<br />

his favourite artworks, Jay Merrick<br />

discovers that the great man has<br />

more than one passion


Norman Foster is, arguably,<br />

the world’s most<br />

famous living architect.<br />

A graduate of the University<br />

Of Manchester School Of<br />

Architecture, Foster is the creative<br />

brain behind Foster + Partners, the<br />

architectural firm responsible for<br />

designing buildings such as Hearst<br />

Tower in New York, the restored<br />

Reichstag in Berlin, Wembley Stadium<br />

in London and the Carrée de<br />

l’Art in Nîmes, France.<br />

It is in the last of those iconic<br />

buildings – designed by Foster 20<br />

years ago – that the architect will<br />

indulge his other, lesser–known<br />

passion this summer, with an exhibition<br />

of more than 100 artworks in<br />

25 spaces.<br />

The 78-year-old has always been<br />

obsessively detail-conscious, so<br />

it’s no surprise to learn that he not<br />

only selected the art for the show,<br />

but also designed every vitrine and<br />

pedestal, and supervised the positioning<br />

of each artwork. He was<br />

still sketching and planning the final<br />

details when I visited him at his<br />

London studio three weeks before<br />

the opening.<br />

His gallery plans were in a slim<br />

charcoal grey box-folder. “I carry this<br />

case with me, which has all the stuff<br />

for the show,” he says. “I’m drawing<br />

everything to scale, fiddling with the<br />

artworks on the room plans, working<br />

out the visual links.”<br />

There is something unique<br />

about this show. Foster’s selection<br />

of artworks has, for the first<br />

time, exposed what this famously<br />

private architect thinks and feels,<br />

deep down, about art and the creative<br />

processes. Those who fly into<br />

the new airport at Amman, or visit<br />

the zero-carbon city of Masdar in<br />

the UAE, experience Foster in his<br />

familiar technocratic architectural<br />

mode. In Nîmes, we find a very different<br />

mind at work.<br />

The title of the show – which<br />

has more than 100 artworks in 25<br />

spaces – is Moving. Not surprising,<br />

given Foster’s love affair with aircraft<br />

and flying. As a boy, growing<br />

up in working-class Manchester,<br />

his early inspiration took the form<br />

84<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

of Dan Dare <strong>com</strong>ics. By the 1980s,<br />

the architectural world’s superstar<br />

was flying his own aircraft and declaring<br />

that the Boeing 747 was one<br />

of the ultimate design icons.<br />

But the most interesting word<br />

that the architect uses to describe<br />

many of the artworks on show in<br />

Nîmes is emotion – not a term that<br />

could have been easily applied to<br />

Norman Foster before 1990.<br />

In those days he was perceived<br />

solely as an extraordinarily successful<br />

architect whose genius had<br />

<strong>com</strong>e through in buildings such<br />

as the Willis Faber office in 1974,<br />

the Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank<br />

Headquarters in 1986 and Stansted<br />

Airport in 1991. He duly gained an<br />

aura of corporatised ambition and<br />

became the unrivalled go-to architect<br />

for the big beasts of the corporate<br />

world.<br />

Foster’s interest in art tells a different<br />

story. It began in 1963 when<br />

he bought his first artwork, a Con-<br />

Can the world’s<br />

most famous<br />

arChiteCt Curate<br />

a major art<br />

show?<br />

structivist piece by Simon Nicholson.<br />

Four years later, when he<br />

opened his first practice in London’s<br />

Covent Garden in 1967, he hung a<br />

Marc Vaux canvas in the reception.<br />

Art had already made an imprint<br />

on him at Yale, where he studied<br />

for his postgraduate degree. At the<br />

time, the school of architecture was<br />

on the top floor of the Yale Art Gallery,<br />

and day after day, the young<br />

Foster would enter through the<br />

lobby to take the elevator.<br />

“In the background, I can still<br />

recall the Sunflowers of Vincent van<br />

Gogh. The college backed onto the


MASTER AT<br />

WORK / Norman<br />

Foster and some<br />

his creations in<br />

Berlin, London,<br />

New York and<br />

Hong Kong<br />

gallery courtyard, and I can also<br />

remember a Henry Moore sculpture<br />

there.”<br />

When Foster returned from<br />

America in the early 1960s, he<br />

was a frequent visitor to London’s<br />

Whitechapel Art Gallery, which<br />

mounted exhibitions of the more<br />

progressive artists of the time, under<br />

its director, Bryan Robertson.<br />

“One of the Whitechapel shows<br />

was devoted to David Hockney,<br />

who impressed me greatly,” recalls<br />

Foster. “I have always been<br />

interested in the way that artists<br />

and photographers can chronicle<br />

the spirit of a time and place.”<br />

In the 1960s, Hockney’s paintings, A<br />

Bigger Splash and Man In A Shower,<br />

made an impact on him, as did<br />

Michael Andrews’ All Night Long<br />

and The Deer Park. By stark contrast,<br />

LS Lowry’s portrayals of working<br />

towns in the north of England – and<br />

their “stick people” – also meant a<br />

great deal to the architect.<br />

Art has became a <strong>com</strong>pulsive<br />

part of Norman Foster’s life since his<br />

marriage, in 1996, to Elena Ochoa,<br />

who holds positions in the art and<br />

publishing worlds. The fi rst artwork<br />

that they bought together was Andy<br />

Warhol’s big canvas, Lenin, in 1995.<br />

And nowadays, they even collaborate<br />

on objets d’art together:<br />

Elena Foster’s Ivorypress publishing<br />

house produced a limited edition<br />

book of photographs of the<br />

Foster-designed Beijing airport,<br />

containing interviews with the architect<br />

and the superstar Chinese<br />

artist Ai Wei Wei.<br />

“My wife and I live with art,” explains<br />

Foster. “It refl ects our tastes,<br />

our intuitions, so we also have work<br />

by relatively unknown artists –<br />

mostly abstract, in the pure sense,<br />

or abstractions of the human fi gure.<br />

Abstraction is associated with<br />

the birth of modernism, but it goes<br />

back 23,000 years to primitive art.<br />

Abstraction is in the long tradition<br />

of <strong>com</strong>munication.”<br />

“The only reason Elena and I<br />

would acquire an artwork is if it<br />

moves us emotionally or intellectu-<br />

85<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong>


THERE IS A KIND OF SELF-<br />

CONFIRMATION IN HIS APPROVAL<br />

OF CREATIVE LONERS<br />

ally.” And he freely admits: “I don’t<br />

feel able to judge or criticise art.”<br />

It was never the Fosters intention<br />

to create a personal art collection –<br />

indeed, they’re un<strong>com</strong>fortable with<br />

that word. Before they met, they<br />

only displayed the occasional painting<br />

or sculpture, mostly by artist<br />

friends. The difference now, says<br />

Foster, is that their various homes<br />

are saturated – his word, by the way<br />

– with the work of diverse artists<br />

across several generations.<br />

There are signifi cant artworks in<br />

virtually every room of their homes<br />

in Switzerland, Madrid, New York<br />

and Martha’s Vineyard.<br />

If Foster has a favourite artist,<br />

it’s probably Richard Long: there’s<br />

a huge Long artwork in the architect’s<br />

London apartment. “I think<br />

Richard’s work touches something<br />

that’s very diffi cult to explain,” Foster<br />

once told me. “If one is moved<br />

by extraordinary abstractions of<br />

nature, the forces of nature, you<br />

then go back to the so-called primitive<br />

societies.<br />

“I can’t defi ne it or rationalise it,<br />

but Richard Long is practicing in<br />

the tradition of anonymous artists.”<br />

Long’s 21m high mural in the Foster-designed<br />

Hearst headquarters in<br />

New York is <strong>com</strong>posed of thousands<br />

of his individually applied muddy<br />

handprints. Everything Long does<br />

requires a great deal of time and solitary,<br />

detailed physical effort. There<br />

is something utterly obsessional<br />

about his processes. Foster is surely<br />

cut from the same cloth.<br />

He likes working with artists,<br />

and <strong>com</strong>missioning artworks for<br />

his buildings. The Al Faisaliah<br />

MOVING ON UP /<br />

Foster’s attention to<br />

detail was evident in<br />

the hours he put in to<br />

create his first art show<br />

87<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

Complex in Riyadh, for example;<br />

the Chesa Futura, Zurich; and the<br />

Reichstag in Berlin, which features<br />

the work of major artists such as<br />

Sigmar Polke, Georg Baselitz, Joseph<br />

Beuys and Gerhard Richter.<br />

Foster’s involvement is always<br />

thorough. “If I go through the list<br />

of artists for the Reichstag, I was<br />

personally involved with very<br />

nearly all of them – in their studies<br />

and their works. Gerhard Richter,<br />

for example. I understand him, and<br />

we helped him with the glass technology.<br />

The strategy of his piece,<br />

the placement, was the subject of<br />

strenuous discussions in his studio.<br />

“With Polke, Elena and I visited<br />

him, and he said: ‘I have two ideas<br />

– this one, and another one that<br />

would use the <strong>com</strong>mercial technology<br />

of advertising.’ I said the<br />

second idea was far more exciting.<br />

And he literally jumped up and<br />

down through 360 degrees, shouting:<br />

‘That’s what I wanted to hear.<br />

Fantastic! Fantastic!’”<br />

And so, Foster has learned not<br />

only from art, but from the behaviour<br />

of artists. There’s a kind of<br />

self-confi rmation in his approval<br />

of creative loners. Loners with fl ying<br />

gloves and goggles on, in Foster’s<br />

case.<br />

He says something revealing<br />

about a key piece in the Nîmes show,<br />

a 1913 Futurist sculpture by Umberto<br />

Boccioni: “A stunningly beautiful<br />

<strong>com</strong>position, the start of the streamlined<br />

age.” And in a recent interview<br />

with the Carré d’art’s director,<br />

Jean-Marc Prévost, he confesses<br />

that when he fi rst encountered the<br />

sculpture, “it literally stopped me in<br />

my tracks, and my pulse quickened.<br />

Years later, it still has the same power<br />

to move my spirits.<br />

Foster is intrigued by the link<br />

between “moving” in the emotional<br />

sense, and physically moving<br />

through space. No wonder he considers<br />

Constantin Brancusi’s sinuous<br />

L’Oiseau dans l’espace – Bird in<br />

Space – to be one of the most beautiful<br />

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Constantin Brancusi, Fernand<br />

Léger and Marcel Duchamp<br />

strolling around the aircraft at<br />

the Paris air show in 1912. Duchamp<br />

points to the front of one of<br />

them and says: ‘Painting is over<br />

and done with. Who could do<br />

anything better than this propeller?<br />

Look! Could you do that?’”<br />

Not surprisingly, one of Foster’s<br />

most prized possessions is<br />

the blade of a propeller from a<br />

50-year-old Douglas DC3: “The<br />

blade has an identical scale to<br />

one of Brancusi’s birds, and there<br />

is the same <strong>com</strong>mon denominator<br />

of refl ective surfaces and<br />

curved planes.<br />

“Without getting too carried<br />

away by the fact that one is an<br />

industrial artefact and the other<br />

is a hallowed cultural relic, there<br />

is still a pleasurable intellectual<br />

link between them,” he says.<br />

“Every time I see this propeller<br />

I feel the same thrill that Duchamp<br />

must have felt when he<br />

contemplated an earlier version at<br />

the beginning of the last century.”<br />

The idea of fl ight is deeply<br />

rooted in Foster’s character. “At a<br />

time when I fl ew racing sailplanes,”<br />

he told Jean-Marc Prévost, “I gave a<br />

talk at the University of East Anglia<br />

on the occasion of the launch of our<br />

design for the Sainsbury Centre for<br />

Visual Arts. To make a point about<br />

sustainability and beauty, I fi nished<br />

with the image of a Caproni Calif<br />

two-seater glider.<br />

“I had recently fl own a<br />

cross-country fl ight with another<br />

pilot in this craft, which set a new<br />

UK glider speed record, so I extolled<br />

its virtues as a solar-powered<br />

vehicle. I remember my fi nal<br />

words: I pronounced it to be more<br />

beautiful than a Brancusi. Sailplanes<br />

are indeed stunning to behold<br />

– but L’Oiseau dans l’espace is<br />

even more beautiful.”<br />

But even the way Foster talks<br />

about fl ying illustrates his deep interest<br />

in pattern and order – control,<br />

if you like. “A fl ight in a sailplane is<br />

ONE OF HIS MOST<br />

PRIZED OBJECTS<br />

IS THE PROPELLOR<br />

BLADE FROM A<br />

DOUGLAS DC3<br />

a series of high-speed descents,<br />

each followed by a spiralling climb<br />

in rising currents of air,” he says.<br />

“Typically, the summits of these invisible<br />

paths of energy are marked<br />

by billowy cumulus clouds, white<br />

against the sky. When these overdevelop<br />

they are transformed into<br />

thunderclouds which, in their extreme<br />

form, can exert forces strong<br />

enough to tear apart an airliner.<br />

“The glider pilot develops a<br />

close association with cloud formations<br />

because they are central<br />

to any fl ight. For example, high-al-<br />

89<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

STRUCTURED /<br />

Foster’s iconic buildings<br />

have been <strong>com</strong>pared to<br />

works of art<br />

titude fl ying in a sailplane is often<br />

a quest for the saucer-shaped lenticular<br />

formations which mark the<br />

rising air in the lee of mountain<br />

ranges.” In other words, he sees nature<br />

as <strong>com</strong>plicated challenge that<br />

can be solved.<br />

Not surprisingly, he has found<br />

a way to emphasise his aerial<br />

notions in the Nîmes exhibition.<br />

One of the younger artists on<br />

show is Iñigo Manglano-Ovalle,<br />

who has created cloud sculptures,<br />

generated from weather data. The<br />

sculptures are initially created<br />

in fi breglass, then surfaced with<br />

shiny titanium foil.<br />

”They freeze for eternity these<br />

most transient and beautiful of natural<br />

forms,” says Foster, “from the<br />

awesome and threatening bulk of<br />

a cumulonimbus thundercloud to<br />

the spectacular slimness of a lenticular<br />

cloud, which could pass for<br />

a fl ying saucer from outer space. If<br />

one did not know the meteorological<br />

sources for these beautifully<br />

shaped objects, it would be reason-


able to assume that they were masterly<br />

works of abstract art – which,<br />

in a sense, they are.”<br />

But he also sees these artworks<br />

as an alarm call for the environmental<br />

threats to the planet.<br />

“His installations confront unexplained<br />

plights suffered by birds<br />

and bees, the possibilities of collisions<br />

with asteroids and the melting<br />

of icecaps.”<br />

Foster’s environmental concerns<br />

are genuine, and go back<br />

forty years, though there has been<br />

some criticism of his high tech approach<br />

to environmental design,<br />

not least in the recently published<br />

book, Cities Are Good For You, by<br />

the historian, Leo Hollis.<br />

Nevertheless, massive eco-projects<br />

like Masdar simply strengthen<br />

Foster’s profi le, and the range of art<br />

on show at Nîmes refl ects his huge<br />

infl uence – and the fact that what<br />

Norman wants, Norman usually<br />

gets: the exhibition features work<br />

by a raft of big-name artists, including<br />

Turner, Ai Wei Wei, Hockney,<br />

Lewitt, Rothko and Serra. And<br />

there will be new, specially <strong>com</strong>missioned<br />

pieces by Bill Fontana,<br />

Olafur Eliasson and Nuno Ramos.<br />

“But out of the 57 artists,” he<br />

emphasises, “less than a third are<br />

names you would know. But they<br />

THE COLLECTOR /<br />

Foster and one of his<br />

favourite paintings, All<br />

Night Long, by Michael<br />

Andrews<br />

are extraordinary talents.”<br />

And some of them trigger surprising<br />

remarks. Foster singles out<br />

a work by Miguel Angel Rios.<br />

“It’s a video called Love.<br />

He uses spinning tops. They pirouette<br />

around each other. They<br />

touch, they kiss. It’s operatic, it’s<br />

Shakespearian. In another sense,<br />

it’s abstract.”<br />

Foster didn’t speak in this manner,<br />

for publication, ten or fi fteen<br />

years ago. Now, of course, his own<br />

legend and trajectory have be<strong>com</strong>e<br />

rather like a 21st century opera.<br />

And he’s re-tailored his own legend,<br />

too: the man originally seen only in<br />

black has be<strong>com</strong>e safely bohemian –<br />

his pink corduroy suit, fi rst donned<br />

about seven years ago, was an early<br />

marker of a more expressive personal<br />

change; the idea of Foster as a<br />

brilliant, but vaguely robotic architect<br />

began to evaporate.<br />

Yet the great conundrum about<br />

Foster the architect and Foster the<br />

art lover is that they seem to remain<br />

very separate beings: it’s hard<br />

to detect a link between his rational<br />

and emotional modes; his buildings<br />

are invariably essays in streamlined<br />

hyper-effi ciency, while his tastes in<br />

art include works that are brutally<br />

abstract, or ambiguous.<br />

Is art a kind of expressive emo-<br />

91<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

FOSTER IS ABLE TO<br />

LEAD THE DOUBLE<br />

LIFE OF A RATIONAL<br />

ARCHITECT AND AN<br />

INTRIGUED ART FAN<br />

tional therapy for the world’s most<br />

intensely driven architect? Ultimately,<br />

Norman Foster seems to<br />

be a man perfectly able to lead the<br />

double-life of hyper-rational architect,<br />

and happily intrigued artbuyer.<br />

It’s obvious, for example,<br />

that he got as much of a kick out of<br />

organising the functional detail of<br />

the Nîmes show, as he did picking<br />

the art.<br />

“Curating the show was absolutely<br />

a process,” he told me,<br />

having put the whole event together,<br />

more or less single-handedly,<br />

in about four months.<br />

“I usually worked on it very early<br />

in the morning, or late at night, or<br />

in taxis.”<br />

The man who has designed<br />

nearly 20 galleries and museums<br />

all over the world – the latest is the<br />

extended Lenbachhaus Museum in<br />

Munich – allows himself an ironic<br />

smile: “I’ve learned a lot about galleries!”<br />

Which means that those<br />

who fi nd themselves at the Carrée<br />

de l’Art in Nîmes this summer are<br />

going to learn a lot about Norman<br />

Foster – the world’s most promising<br />

trainee art curator.<br />

Moving, Norman Foster on Art,<br />

Carré de l’Art Museum of Contemporary<br />

Art, Nîmes, France, until<br />

September 15th.


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BRIEFING<br />

105<br />

SWEDE START<br />

A new route is<br />

announced to the<br />

picturesque city of<br />

Stockholm<br />

108<br />

GREEN SUITS<br />

A new<br />

environmentallyfriendly<br />

clothes<br />

brand launched<br />

114<br />

ROUTE MAP<br />

Discover<br />

the world as<br />

connected by<br />

<strong>Emirates</strong><br />

Served Up<br />

<strong>Emirates</strong> announces<br />

new partnership with<br />

the French <strong>Open</strong><br />

(106)


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Simply Stockholm<br />

As <strong>Emirates</strong> starts operating daily flights to Stockholm from September 4th,<br />

we pick out five must-visit places in the Swedish capital<br />

01 Gamla Stan<br />

Stockholm was founded on this<br />

small island that bisects the city in<br />

1252. The quaint and multicoloured<br />

streets of Gamla Stan are home to<br />

one of Europe’s largest and bestpreserved<br />

medieval city centres.<br />

Picturesque and tourist heavy, it is<br />

one place not to miss.<br />

02 Moderna Museet<br />

Located on the island of<br />

Skeppsholmen, a short ferry trip<br />

separates the Museum of Modern<br />

Art and Architecture from the rest<br />

of Stockholm. The architectural<br />

museum is one of the world’s largest<br />

and houses works from Dali, Picasso<br />

Matisse and Rauschenberg. In 1993<br />

it was the scene of an infamous<br />

burglary in which $66 million<br />

worth of Picasso and Braque<br />

works were taken.<br />

03 SkyView<br />

A new kind of observation deck,<br />

SkyView is Stockholm’s answer<br />

to the London Eye. Sat 130 metres<br />

atop the Ericsson Globe it offers<br />

fantastic views across the entire<br />

city. The two SkyView gondolas<br />

depart every 10 minutes and take<br />

about half an hour, so book ahead.<br />

Perfect timing<br />

Don’t miss your next <strong>Emirates</strong> flight.<br />

Make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.<br />

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and<br />

gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you<br />

report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.<br />

Thank you for your cooperation.<br />

04 Vasa Museum<br />

Back in 1628 a 69-metre long<br />

warship, the Vasa, sank on its<br />

maiden voyage right in the middle<br />

of Stockholm. Painstakingly<br />

salvaged 333 years later in 1961,<br />

the ship has now been restored<br />

with 95 per cent of its original<br />

form on display at the Vasa<br />

Museum where it is decorated with<br />

hundreds of carved sculptures.<br />

105<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong><br />

NEWS<br />

05 Södermalm Nightlife<br />

Over the past couple of decades<br />

the Swedish capital has emerged<br />

as one of Europe’s coolest cities.<br />

Evidence of this is the bohemian<br />

Södermalm area of the city, home<br />

to a pumping nightlife and a<br />

trendy bar and café culture. Prices<br />

are steep however, so make sure to<br />

bring a full wallet.


BE INSPIRED<br />

LOOKING TO TAKE the concept of personalised service<br />

even further, <strong>Emirates</strong> has launched a new online<br />

feature that will inspire travellers looking to plan their<br />

next break.<br />

The Inspire Me feature on <strong>Emirates</strong>.<strong>com</strong> centres<br />

around a new globe-spanning interactive route map<br />

that allows passengers to choose their next holiday by<br />

factoring in price, fl ying time from origin and even by<br />

climate preference.<br />

106<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

GAME, SET AND MATCH<br />

AS THE WORLD’S elite tennis players <strong>com</strong>pete for the<br />

year’s second Grand Slam at the French <strong>Open</strong> this month,<br />

<strong>Emirates</strong> has a smash of its own, announcing a fi ve-year<br />

agreement to be an offi cial partner of the Roland Garros<br />

tournament, which runs until <strong>June</strong> 9.<br />

<strong>Emirates</strong> is not new to world-class tennis events, being<br />

the Offi cial Airline of the ATP World Tour, ATP World<br />

Tour Finals and sponsor of the <strong>Emirates</strong> ATP rankings.<br />

<strong>Emirates</strong> also sponsors the <strong>Emirates</strong> Airline US <strong>Open</strong><br />

Series, including the US <strong>Open</strong> and several stops on the<br />

ATP Tour, including most recently both the Italian and<br />

Barcelona <strong>Open</strong>s.<br />

The deal seems appropriate with the French <strong>Open</strong><br />

named after famed French aviation pioneer and tennis<br />

supporter, Roland Garros.<br />

<strong>Emirates</strong> currently operates 32 weekly fl ights to France,<br />

with 20 fl ights per week from Paris including a double<br />

daily A380 service, a daily fl ight to Nice and fi ve fl ights per<br />

week to Lyon.<br />

The service now brings <strong>Emirates</strong>’ international<br />

travel expertise directly to travellers, allowing them<br />

to search for holiday ideas based on their personal<br />

preferences, be it a city break for one, family travel or a<br />

beach holiday for a group of friends.<br />

The Inspire Me application can ac<strong>com</strong>modate<br />

every traveller’s need – from beach-side resorts,<br />

historical journeys, indulgent shopping sprees or<br />

escapes into nature.


green<br />

Smart threadS<br />

A British clothing <strong>com</strong>pany has<br />

launched an environmentally friendly<br />

collection of uniforms aimed at the air<br />

travel industry.<br />

Corporate clothing <strong>com</strong>pany Lyn<br />

Oakes claim that their Eco Collection<br />

can help boost their environmental<br />

credentials of airlines by offering<br />

easy-to-clean uniforms that derive<br />

90% energy used by washing<br />

times<br />

machines is to heat the water<br />

from all natural, sustainable and<br />

renewable sources.<br />

The <strong>com</strong>pany states that all the<br />

garments in the collection are tested<br />

and adhere to the Oeko-Tex Standard<br />

100, where guidelines test for harmful<br />

substances across the manufacturing<br />

process. The interlinings of the<br />

uniforms are also either made from<br />

viscose – a biodegradable material<br />

made with pine wood pulp from<br />

re-cultivated forests – or from<br />

recycled plastic bottles.<br />

Part of the range has been specially<br />

designed to be washed at lower<br />

temperatures, with less detergent and<br />

without the need for fabric softener.<br />

From peSt to power<br />

seAweed wAshed up on the shore may<br />

be an eyesore but, according to recent<br />

research, it could soon be used to<br />

produce a clean source of energy.<br />

A research group from the University<br />

of Alicante in Spain claim that it has<br />

invented a system that will wash, dry and<br />

<strong>com</strong>pact beached seaweed, which can<br />

then be converted into pellets and used as<br />

a source of biomass in power plants.<br />

When seaweed is alive in the ocean<br />

it serves as a habitat and food source<br />

(source: thedailygreen.<strong>com</strong>)<br />

for marine life. However, once it gets<br />

washed ashore it tends to rot, only to<br />

then be cleared from the beaches and<br />

shipped off to landfill sights.<br />

Because the process is carried out on<br />

the beach, it also cuts out the amount of<br />

dead seaweed being shipped to landfills,<br />

making it cheaper, more efficient and<br />

helps lessen the erosion of the beach as<br />

large quantities of sand are also sent to<br />

the landfills collaterally by the current<br />

cleaning procedures.<br />

108<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong><br />

Carbonneutral<br />

raCing<br />

six<br />

as many jobs are created by<br />

the recycling industry than landfilling<br />

(source: sailsbury university)<br />

with environmentAl<br />

conditions having an<br />

impact on the sailing<br />

industry, it is no surprise<br />

that for the second year<br />

running the Atlantic<br />

Cup sailing race was<br />

run adhering to carbonneutral<br />

levels.<br />

Last year the 648<br />

nautical mile race down<br />

the East coast of the USA<br />

became the first race in<br />

the country to offset its<br />

levels of CO2, with last<br />

month’s race achieving the<br />

same lofty standards.<br />

To offset a predicted<br />

10.45 metric tonnes<br />

of CO2, organisers<br />

ensured that the teams<br />

used biodiesel hydro<br />

generators, solar panels<br />

and fuel cells at each<br />

of the stops along the<br />

multi-city event to limit<br />

the use of fuel during the<br />

<strong>com</strong>petition. There were<br />

also restrictions in place to<br />

eliminate the use of singleuse<br />

plastic bottles in the<br />

hospitality villages and the<br />

use of plastic water bottles<br />

on-board the boats.


COMFORT<br />

Comfort<br />

in the air<br />

smart traveller<br />

drink plenty of water<br />

rehYDrAte With WAter or Juices frequentlY.<br />

Drink teA AnD coffee in moDerAtion.<br />

travel lightly<br />

cArrY onlY the essentiAl items thAt You<br />

Will neeD During Your flight.<br />

wear glasses<br />

cABin Air is Drier thAn normAl therefore<br />

sWAp Your contAct lenses for glAsses.<br />

use skin moisturiser<br />

ApplY A gooD quAlitY moisturiser to ensure<br />

Your skin Doesn’t DrY out.<br />

keep moving<br />

exercise Your loWer legs AnD cAlf<br />

muscles. this encourAges BlooD floW.<br />

make yourself <strong>com</strong>fortable<br />

loosen clothing, remove JAcket AnD AvoiD<br />

AnYthing pressing AgAinst Your BoDY.<br />

to help you arrive at your destination feeling<br />

relaxed and refreshed, emirates has developed<br />

this collection of helpful travel tips regardless<br />

of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday<br />

or be effective at achieving your goals on a business<br />

trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your<br />

journey and time on board with emirates today.<br />

110<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / JUne <strong>2013</strong><br />

Before Your JourneY<br />

Consult your doctor before travelling<br />

if you have any medical concerns<br />

about making a long journey, or<br />

if you suffer from a respiratory or<br />

cardiovascular condition.<br />

Plan for the destination – will<br />

you need any vaccinations or<br />

special medications?<br />

Get a good night’s rest before<br />

the flight.<br />

Eat lightly and sensibly.<br />

At the Airport<br />

Allow yourself plenty of timefor<br />

check-in.<br />

Avoid carrying heavy bags through<br />

the airport and onto the flight<br />

as this can place the body under<br />

considerable stress.<br />

Once through to departures try and<br />

relax as much as possible.<br />

During the flight<br />

Chewing and swallowing will help<br />

equalise your ear pressure during<br />

ascent and descent.<br />

Babies and young passengers may<br />

suffer more acutely with popping<br />

ears, therefore consider providing<br />

a dummy.<br />

Get as <strong>com</strong>fortable as possible when<br />

resting and turn frequently.<br />

Avoid sleeping for long periods in<br />

the same position.<br />

When You Arrive<br />

Try some light exercise or read if<br />

you can’t sleep after arrival.


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Tekfen Tower<br />

Louis Vuitton Orjin Building<br />

SERVCORP.COM.TR


VISA & STATS<br />

Guide<br />

to Us cUstoms & immigration forms<br />

Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide<br />

to <strong>com</strong>pleting the US customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your<br />

journey is as hassle free as possible.<br />

customs<br />

declaration<br />

form<br />

All passengers arriving into<br />

the US need to <strong>com</strong>plete a<br />

Customs DeClaration<br />

Form. If you are travelling<br />

as a family this should be<br />

<strong>com</strong>pleted by one member<br />

only. The form must be<br />

<strong>com</strong>pleted in English, in<br />

capital letters, and must be<br />

signed where indicated.<br />

112<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong><br />

cAbIn crEw wIll bE hAppy<br />

To hElp If yoU nEEd ASSISTAncE<br />

<strong>com</strong>plETIng ThE formS


ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR<br />

TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA)<br />

If you are an international traveller wishing<br />

to enter the United States under the Visa<br />

Waiver Programme, You must apply for<br />

electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72<br />

hours prior to your departure.<br />

ESTA FACTS:<br />

Children and infants require an<br />

individual ESTA.<br />

The online ESTA system will inform<br />

you whether your application has<br />

been authorised, not authorised or<br />

if authorisation is pending.<br />

A successful ESTA application is valid<br />

for two years, however this may be revoked<br />

or will expire along with your passport.<br />

APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA<br />

NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE FOR<br />

THE VISA WAIVER*:<br />

Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei,<br />

Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland,<br />

France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland,<br />

Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania,<br />

Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands,<br />

New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino,<br />

Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South<br />

Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the<br />

UnitedKingdom**<br />

* SUBJECT TO CHANGE<br />

** ONLY BRITISH CITIZENS<br />

QUALIFY UNDER THE VISA<br />

WAIVER PROGRAMME.<br />

113<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong>


ROUTE MAP<br />

114<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong>


115<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong>


Europe<br />

To New York City<br />

0 hrs<br />

Lisbon<br />

Glasgow<br />

Dublin<br />

Manchester<br />

Birmingham<br />

GMT 0 hrs London<br />

(Heathrow & Gatwick)<br />

GMT +1hrs<br />

Newcastle<br />

Zaragoza<br />

Madrid<br />

Paris<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Dusseldorf<br />

Liege<br />

Frankfurt<br />

+1hrs<br />

Gothenburg<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Hamburg<br />

Prague<br />

Munich<br />

Lyon<br />

Zurich<br />

Geneva<br />

Milan<br />

Venice<br />

Nice<br />

Barcelona<br />

Rome<br />

+2hrs<br />

Stockholm<br />

Warsaw<br />

Vienna<br />

+1hrs<br />

116<br />

OPEN SKIES / JUNE <strong>2013</strong><br />

+2hrs<br />

+3hrs<br />

St. Petersburg<br />

Istanbul<br />

+4hrs<br />

Moscow<br />

To Dubai<br />

+2hrs


WHERE ARE<br />

YOU GOING?<br />

TELL US OR UPLOAD A PIC AT<br />

FACEBOOK.COM/OPENSKIESMAGAZINE<br />

TWITTER.COM/OPENSKIESMAG<br />

117<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong>


FLEET<br />

The Fleet<br />

Our fleet cOntains<br />

201 aircraft Made up<br />

Of 191 passenger<br />

aircraft and 10<br />

cargO aircraft<br />

Boeing 777-300eR Number of Aircraft: 88 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m<br />

Boeing 777-300 Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m<br />

Boeing 777-200LR Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m<br />

Boeing 777-200 Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m<br />

Boeing 777F Number of Aircraft: 8 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m<br />

For more inFormation: www.emirates.<strong>com</strong>/ourFleet<br />

118<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong>


Airbus A380-800 Number of Aircraft: 35 Capacity: 489-5 17 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m<br />

Airbus A340-500 Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m<br />

Airbus A340-300 Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m<br />

Airbus A330-200 Number of Aircraft: 23 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m<br />

boeing 747-400erF Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m<br />

aircraft numbers as of 30/06/<strong>2013</strong><br />

119<br />

<strong>Open</strong> skies / june <strong>2013</strong>


Will there ever be a time when<br />

humans can live forever? We will<br />

be speaking to some experts next<br />

month to find out if the latest<br />

technology can prolong our lives longer than we<br />

ever thought possible. We travel to Casablanca,<br />

one of Morocco’s most interesting cities, to find<br />

out where to sleep, eat and party. We celebrate<br />

the 150th anniversary of the Tube, London’s underground<br />

transport system, and figure out why<br />

it generates so many mixed emotions among<br />

Londoners. The Arabian horse is one of the most<br />

beautiful animals in the world, and our photo<br />

essay celebrates the stunning form of these thoroughbred<br />

animals. We also check out Prague,<br />

Buenos Aires and one of Dubai’s best kept<br />

culinary secrets. See you next month.


www.omegawatches.<strong>com</strong>

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