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Sicily presents to the ordinary tourist attractions which in number ...

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143 ANTIQUITIES IN THE MUSEUM AT PALERMO.<br />

and when he has left this beautiful city, <strong>the</strong>y rema<strong>in</strong><br />

most deeply engraved on his memory. Architecture <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir case is subord<strong>in</strong>ate <strong>to</strong> pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g, and we, <strong>the</strong>refore,<br />

look back on <strong>the</strong> Cappella Palat<strong>in</strong>a and <strong>the</strong> Duomo of<br />

Monreale as shr<strong>in</strong>es <strong>in</strong>clos<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> chefs-d'oeuvre of<br />

mediaeval mosaicists. 1 These magnificent works charm<br />

<strong>the</strong> lover of <strong>the</strong> picturesque by <strong>the</strong>ir gorgeous colour<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir colossal size, and <strong>the</strong>ir variety of subjects, at <strong>the</strong><br />

same time that <strong>the</strong>y <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rical enquirer by<br />

an <strong>in</strong>termixture of different styles—Classical, Byzant<strong>in</strong>e,<br />

Arabic, and Norman—for <strong>which</strong> it would be hard <strong>to</strong> f<strong>in</strong>d<br />

a parallel. 2 But, after all, <strong>the</strong>se monuments are not <strong>the</strong><br />

highest art, for <strong>the</strong>y were executed under <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>fluence<br />

of a degenerate sacerdotalism, and though <strong>the</strong> figures<br />

have a solemn and mysterious grandeur that <strong>in</strong>spires <strong>the</strong><br />

beholder with awe, <strong>the</strong>y want <strong>the</strong> beauty and animation<br />

<strong>which</strong> we admire <strong>in</strong> ancient Greece. 3<br />

Palermo conta<strong>in</strong>s examples of mosaics <strong>in</strong> this better<br />

style, <strong>which</strong> are not generally known, and have not been<br />

described by any English traveller. They were found<br />

amongst <strong>the</strong> rema<strong>in</strong>s of a build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Piazza Yit<strong>to</strong>ria,<br />

formerly called Reale, a large open space with <strong>the</strong> Royal<br />

Palace on its west side, and <strong>the</strong> Corso Yit<strong>to</strong>rio Emanuele<br />

on <strong>the</strong> north. A glance at <strong>the</strong>se pavements is sufficient<br />

<strong>to</strong> show <strong>the</strong>ir superiority, and <strong>to</strong> conv<strong>in</strong>ce all except<br />

those who depreciate classical antiquity, and reserve <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

praise for clumsy imitations of it executed <strong>in</strong> later ages.<br />

The discovery was made accidentally <strong>in</strong> December, 1868,<br />

on <strong>the</strong> occasion of a fete offered by <strong>the</strong> city <strong>to</strong> Pr<strong>in</strong>ce<br />

Umber<strong>to</strong> and his Consort, now K<strong>in</strong>g and Queen of Italy.<br />

1 II Duomo di Monreale illustrate e schichte I, 261. In diesen Formen, <strong>in</strong><br />

riporta<strong>to</strong> <strong>in</strong> Tavole chromo-litliograficlie diesen Satzungen e<strong>in</strong>es ausserlichen<br />

da D. Domenico-Benedet<strong>to</strong> Grav<strong>in</strong>a, Ceremoniells erstarrt die byzant<strong>in</strong>ische<br />

Abate Cass<strong>in</strong>ese, folio, reproduces <strong>the</strong> Kunst und bewiihrt aufs Neue, dass nur<br />

draw<strong>in</strong>g and colour<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> mosaics aus wahrhaft geistigem Leben e<strong>in</strong>e Entwith<br />

great fidelity ; cf. Serra di Falco, wicklung der Formen entspr<strong>in</strong>gen kann,<br />

Del Duomo di Monreale e di altre Chiese und dass e<strong>in</strong> ausserlicher Dogmatismus<br />

Siculo Normanne. der Tod aller Entwicklung ist. Kugler,<br />

2 Gaily Knight quoted by Dennis, " Handbook of Pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g," Italian Schools,<br />

''Handbook for <strong>Sicily</strong>," p. 72. edit. Eastlake, vol. i, 25 sqq., The Byzan-<br />

The Cappella Palat<strong>in</strong>a conta<strong>in</strong>s with<strong>in</strong> t<strong>in</strong>e style,<br />

a ]small space columns with Cor<strong>in</strong>thian A popular account of <strong>the</strong> mosaics of<br />

capitals, <strong>the</strong> Temple of Jerusalem de- <strong>the</strong> Cappella Palat<strong>in</strong>a and Monreale is<br />

picted as a Byzant<strong>in</strong>e church, Saracenic given by Mr. G. F. Kodwell, South by<br />

honeycomb work <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> roof, and Norman east, '' Notes of Travel <strong>in</strong> Sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

chevrons <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> pulpit; Dennis, ibid. Europe," pp. 189-193; <strong>the</strong> frontispiece<br />

72—77. and engrav<strong>in</strong>g opposite page 190 show<br />

3 Liibke, Grundriss der Kunstge- <strong>the</strong>ir position <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs.

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