WINTeR 2013 - Explore Big Sky

photo by paul o’Connor 

EXploRING lIFE, laND aND CulTuRE FRoM THE HEaRT oF THE yElloWsToNE REGIoN 

Mountain 

grizzly 

attack 

brian schweitzer 

spEaks ouT 

explorebigsky.com 


Mountain 

WINTER 2013 

Free 

skiing alaska 

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montana hot 

springs guide 

featured outlaw: 

michael 

reynolds 

yElloWsToNE // cutthroat on the rebound 

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Mountain 

3

MOunTaIn OuTLaW IS PuBLISHED BY 

Big Sky ChamBer of CommerCe 

BuSineSS of the year - 2011 

3 teLLy awardS - 2012 

15 montana newSpaper 

aSSoCiation awardS - 2011 & 2012 

Ski area management magazine 

“BeSt of marketing” reCognition - 2011 

maggie award nomination - 2012 

outSide magazine 100 BeSt pLaCeS to work - 2012 

eDitoriaL PoLiCY 

outlaw Partners LLC is the sole owner of Mountain Outlaw 

magazine and the Big Sky Weekly. no part of this publication 

may be reprinted without written permission from the 

publisher. Mountain Outlaw magazine reserves the right 

to edit all submitted material for content, corrections or 

length. Printed material reflects the opinion of the author 

and is not necessarily the opinion of outlaw Partners or the 

editors of this publication. no advertisements, columns, 

letters to the editor or other information will be published 

that contain discrimination based on sex, age, race, religion, 

creed, nationality, sexual preference, or are in bad taste. For 

editorial queries or submissions, please contact 

media@theoutlawpartners.com. 

Join tHe ranKs – subMissions WeLCoMe 

the Mountain outlaw editorial team wants you to 

know we accept well-written articles or photos for 

consideration in our magazine. submissions should match 

the Yellowstone region style and Mountain outlaw brand, 

and are accepted throughout the year for our summer and 

winter editions. email submissions to 

media@theoutlawpartners.com or visit explorebigsky.com. 

outLaW Partners, MOUNTAIN OUTLAW 

& tHe BIG SKY WEEKLY 

(406) 995-2055 

Po box 160250 

11 Lone Peak Drive #104 

big sky, Mt 59716 


media@theoutlawpartners.com 

Copyright © 2013 outlaw Partners, LLC 

unauthorized reproduction prohibited 

4 Mountain explorebigsky.com 

Mountain 

WINTeR 2013 

cReaTIve 

CreatiVe DireCtor 

Mike Martins 

graPHiC Designer 

Kelsey Dzintars 

ViDeo DireCtor 

brian niles 

Web DeVeLoPer 

sean Weas 

ViDeograPHer/ 

PHotograPHer 

Chris Davis 

Design intern 

taylor-ann smith 

PUBLISHeR 

eric Ladd 

eDITORIaL 

Managing eDitor 

emily stifler 

eDitor 

Joseph t. o’Connor 

staFF Writer/ 

Distribution DireCtor 

tyler allen 

SaLeS aND OPeRaTIONS 

CHieF oPerating oFFiCer 

Megan Paulson 

oPerations DireCtor 

Katie Morrison 

Contributing Writers 

bradley bermont, renae Counter, Victor DeLeo, ryan Dorn, 

Felicia ennis, Marcie Hahn-Knoff, Mike Mannelin, erik 

Meridian, Forrest McCarthy, Corrie Francis Parks, Max Lowe 

Forrest McCarthy 

Contributing PHotograPHers 

tyler busby, Jake Campos, Mike Coil, nick Diamond , Lynne 

Donaldson, beau Fredlund, royce gorsuch, audrey Hall, 

Ken W. Hall, Kirsten Jacobsen, Matty McCain, greg Mather, 

gill Montgomery, Paul o’Connor, Patrick orton, Kene 

sperry, Paul swenson, ryan turner, Mark Weber 

DISTRIBUTION 

25,000 copies published twice a year and distributed 

strategically around the Yellowstone region and the northern 

Rockies including 500+ locations throughout (MT) Big Sky, 

Bozeman, West Yellowstone, Gardiner, Livingston, Butte; (WY) 

Jackson Hole, Cody; (ID) Driggs, Victor, Pocatello, Ketchum; 

(OR) Bend; (Canada) British Columbia; and subscriptions 

mailed to 39 states. 

For advertising or subscription inquiries, 

email media@theoutlawpartners.com 

Randy Evans sledding into the golden light at sunset 

in Cooke City, Montana. PHOTO BY PaTRICK ORTOn explorebigsky explorebigsky

on the cover: architect michael reynolds stands next to a 

new building at greater world earthship community in taos, 

new mexico. photographer paul o’connor used a 4x5 toyo 

View camera and burned up five sheets of type 54 poloroid 

film to get this image. read more about reynolds and 

earthships on p. 120. 

features 

34 now: profile of Brian schweitzer 

Montana’s governor and his plan to change the world 

44 Q+a: sniper in the vines 

a winemaker in the vineyards of afghanistan 

59 region: man and Beast 

How a grizzly attack in big sky reflects the health of a species 

68 a legacy of conservation 

saving the last pristine habitat of the Yellowstone Lake cutthroat 

75 eight degrees south of the eQuator 

Finding paradise in bali 

84 gallery: gary lynn roBerts 

Montana artist finds inspiration in god and family 

102 adventure: the long, clean line 

traversing the gallatin Crest on skis 

stories 

10 trailhead 

How many gallons of coffee 

does it take to run an avalanche 

forecast center? Plus: parties, an 

extreme ski comp, backcountry 

digs and a new big sky history 

book. 

15 health 

Cutting edge medical 

research on everest 

a cabin along the banks of the madison river in ennis 

photo bY ken w. hall bearfeather.com 

17 community 

blackfeet Community College: a 

symbol of hope 

20 outBound gallery 

stunning images from 

regional photographers 

30 tales 

Helicopter skiing in alaska 

40 culture 

between La and big sky 

52 explore 

art and words from alaska’s 

Chilkoot trail 


80 science 

bozeman’s Microbion Corporation; 

Yellowstone Club Community 

Foundation partners with 

university of Montana 

91 dining 

rustic elegance at rainbow 

ranch; Dutch oven cooking with 

Jay bentley’s open range 

96 profile 

the art and passion of ski instruction 

100 guide 

southwest Montana’s hot springs 

106 history 

big sky resort, 40 years later 

110 gear guide 

ski and snowboard gear; pants 

party; and the outdoor athlete’s 

guide to office survival 

118 road trip 

Montana’s sweet 16 

120 outlaw 

earthships architect Michael 

reynolds 

Mountain 

5

FRoM THE puBlIsHER 

Be open to possiBilities 

the mountains, oceans and rivers have 

amazing advice. Slow down. Breathe. 

Listen. Be present. in nature, i find 

the purest venue to connect the dots 

between life and business. 

on a recent backpacking journey 

through the gallatin Mountains, it 

dawned on me: 3 miles an hour! this is 

the speed at which our species is meant 

to operate; more in tune with our 

surroundings and ourselves. test this 

theory: go for a walk, go float a river, 

go sit on a hillside and read a book or 

magazine. 

as our society winds up and operates at 

a faster, more plugged-in pace, staying 

open to life becomes a challenge. We 

are becoming a culture that seeks daily 

affirmation from social media, versus 

living the mantra. 

People often ask me how we make this 

print publication work. Looking back, 

JACKSON HOLE 

it’s because our team stayed open to the 

possibility that perhaps print isn’t dead. 

it isn’t. 

For me, seeing Mountain Outlaw, a 

print publication, succeed in our virtual 

society is beyond rewarding. as we add 

another eight pages to accommodate 

growth, making it one of the largest in 

this region of the country, i’m proud. 

supported by amazing advertisers, staff 

and 400,000-plus readers, this magazine 

is defying gravity. 

this issue features stories of people 

who have stayed open to the idea of 

possibilities: a governor who ran Montana 

and its government with a new 

approach; an architect who designed 

a new way of building a sustainable 

home; a local Montana charity that is 

making big impacts. 

this collection of stories is meant to 

inspire our readers to create their own 

publisher eric ladd with dog black betty 

enjoying some time in the north dakota 

fields together 

adventures, to encourage us all to slow 

down, read, share and imagine. thank 

you for your continued support. enjoy 

this publication, and let’s all stay open 

to possibilities. 

eric Ladd 

Publisher 

eric@theoutlawpartners.com 

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FRoM THE EDIToR 

CoNTEXT Is uNDERsTaNDING 

Writing about bob olson’s 

grizzly bear encounter kept 

me up at night. 

a bear climbed over the 

fence into olson’s yard last 

spring in big sky, attacked 

his dogs and charged him. 

“it happened so fast, it 

boggles your mind,” he says. 

He wants people to learn 

from his encounter and encourages 

carrying bear spray 

close at hand. 

Camping under the stars 

this fall, i went to bed 

reading scott McMillion’s 

Mark of the Grizzly.. every 

sound made me jump. i 

spent october reading 

scientific papers on grizzly 

bears, reviewing text from a 

dozen interviews, and filling 

the space between with my 

own words. but the story 

wasn’t complete. i wanted to 

see a Yellowstone grizzly in 

the wild. 

For me, context means 

greater understanding. 

Jackson, Wyoming-based 

freelancer Forrest McCarthy 

knew this when he wrote 

about a ski traverse of the 

gallatin Crest. 

tyler allen couldn’t ignore 

it for his article on Yellowstone 

Lake cutthroat trout 

and the species that depend 

on them. ecosystem health 

affects tourism, business 

and jobs. 

outgoing Montana governor 

brian schweitzer 

understands context as well, 

speaking to it in an interview 

with Joseph o’Connor. 

in perhaps this issue’s most 

powerful story, a u.s. army 

sniper working in afghanistan 

recalls fishing in Yellowstone 

as a child. 

“Let’s face it: america isn’t 

perfect,” he says. “However, 

i’m willing to serve and sacrifice 

for the sake of that one 

perfect day and the dream 

that eventually another one 

will come along.” 

the Yellowstone region is 

less populated than the rest 

of the lower 48 – but even 

so, we’re all connected. that 

context gives us ground to 

stand on. 

emily stifler 

Managing editor 

emily@theoutlawpartners.com

FEaTuRED CoNTRIBuToRs 

BRaDlEy BERMoNT writes in the gray 

area between freelance and unemployment, 

mostly around la. come 

winter, he’ll be skiing in big sky with 

his mother. he graduated from roger 

williams university in 2012. 

paul o’CoNNoR has been 

making portraits of the taos 

art scene for the past 24 

years. his recent book, taos 

portraits, features 60 fullpage 

black and white photos 

of some of the town’s notorious 

and creative characters, 

accompanied by stories from 

friends and peers. 

MaX loWE is a photographer and writer 

based in bozeman. with a passion for adventure 

photography and documentary, lowe 

has traveled to far corners of the world, 

played the field with high-level athletes, 

and photographed renowned musicians. 

recently, his photos have been published in 

national geographic and backpacker. more 

at maxlowemedia.com. 

CoRRIE FRaNCIs paRks is an 

animator and designer with a 

freelance studio in big sky. her 

award-winning films have been 

exhibited at national and international 

film festivals on almost 

every continent (she’s still waiting 

for someone to organize an antarctic 

film festival). watch some 

animation on her website corriefrancis.com, 

and if you’re in the 

mountains, swing by the studio 

and say “hello!” 

RENaE CouNTER is a montana 

native who currently 

resides in big sky. a secondgeneration 

ski instructor, she 

taught skiing at maverick 

mountain for four winters 

as a side job while attending 

the university of montana 

western. counter graduated 

in december 2012, and is now 

a full-time ski instructor. 


MIkE MaNNElIN now lives in alaska 

most of the year, calling kodiak island 

home. he looks forward to sharing more 

face shots with friends, whether it’s from 

the lone peak tram or some backcountry 

stash. 

FoRREsT MCCaRTHy has 

been a professional mountain 

guide and adventurer for 

more than 20 years. whether 

by foot, ski, mountain bike 

or packraft, mccarthy has a 

penchant for exploring and 

celebrating big, wild landscapes. 

he lives in Jackson, 

wyoming with his wife amy 

and their dog fryxell. 

Mountain 

9

ColD sMokE aWaRDs 

it began as a grassroots bozeman 

film festival, then hit the road, touring 

the west. now, it’s going viral. 

starting in January, cold smoke 

awards will offer worldwide 

viewing and voting at 

coldsmokeawards.com. 

“it’s an online winter mountain film 

festival,” said brad Van wert, one 

of four founders. “You can come to 

our website and see stuff you can’t 

anywhere else. no one else is really 

doing that.” 

the crew will again visit select ski 

towns, showing trailers and short 

films, and of course, throwing 

parties. don’t miss the academy 

awards-style finale in bozeman 

this march. 


FREERIDE WoRlD QualIFIER RETuRNs 

To MooNlIGHT BasIN 

for two days in 2012, the freeskiing world tour 

blew up moonlight basin, bringing world-class 

rippers to the headwaters cirque. 

“to see the headwaters really get shredded, 

that’s awesome,” said local skier and competitor 

pat gannon. 

returning march 15 – 16, the 2013 comp will 

be a four-star event, the highest qualifier for 

the championship series that now combines 

the swatch freeride world tour, the freeskiing 

world tour and the north face masters of 

snowboarding. 

“it’s a perfect venue,” said fwt operations 

manager nathaniel “pouch” gauthier. “the 

amphitheater with the natural finish line – 

[moonlight is] completely set up for it.” 

check out footage from the 2012 event: 

vimeo.com/39292338 

IMaGEs oF aMERICa: BIG sky 

arcadia publishing, 2012 

the early white settlers in big sky 

were hardy and persistent, and a 

new book brings to life their trials 

and tribulations. 

starting with the hayden expedition, 

which surveyed the region in 

the 1870s, images of america: big 

sky, depicts 100 years of logging, 

mining, homesteading, ranching, 

recreation and tourism that followed. 

co-authors dr. Jeff strickler 

and anne marie mistretta 

included historic records, character sketches, anecdotes 

and more than 175 historic photos. 

“i think it’s going to open up a tremendous amount of 

interest in big sky history,” said al lockwood, chairman of 

the local historic crail ranch conservators. 

available online at crailranch.org. 

34TH aNNual DIRTBaG Day 

every year in march, big sky resort celebrates 

dirtbag day, a holiday commemorating 

the belief that skiing comes above all 

responsibilities. those who trust this have 

earned the honored title: dirtbags. 

no one knows this lifestyle better than the 

dirtbag king and Queen, locals elected for 

their dedication to the skier’s life. every year, 

the coronation is preceded by a ski parade, 

the powder 8s and an evening ball. this wild 

affair is a fundraiser for ski patrol. 

expect to see skiers sporting retro onepiece 

ski suits, football helmets, outfits 

made of duct tape, hula hoops and maybe 

a few whiskey-filled ski poles. there is one 

message here: skiing comes first. all other 

things are meant for a laugh. 

find the 2013 date on the events calendar at 

bigskyresort.com. -Victor deleo 

recommended reading 

compiled bY the editors 

photo bY kene sperrY

ackcountrY digs 

NEW CaBIN aND yuRT opEN NEaR CookE CITy 

the bay window of the Woody Creek Cabin looks southwest 

toward the Fin and republic Peak, alpine ski objectives towering 

2,300 feet above Cooke City. 

set on a 22-acre mining claim and surrounded by national Forest 

land, this backcountry abode is within skinning distance of 

Woody ridge, east Hayden Creek and Pilot and index peaks, 

and also accesses miles of ski touring trails – all this, just a 2.5 

mile hike from Cooke. 

ben Zavora, of beartooth Powder guides, built the 20 by 24foot 

cabin by hand this past summer, felling all the timber for 

the structure on the property. it and his new Mount Zimmer 

Yurt are both available for rent this winter. 

Located near the base of its namesake peak, the Mount Zimmer 

Yurt is six miles north of town, next to Zimmer Creek and the 

wilderness boundary, providing access to alpine terrain in the 

heart of the beartooth Mountains. 

both sites are decked out with kitchen supplies, wood stoves, 

bunks and killer views. as well, they both have a mix of lowangle 

tree skiing for high hazard days, moderate and advanced 

backcountry terrain, and steep ski mountaineering, Zavora said. 

“Cooke is blessed with a pretty consistent snowfall, in general 

– it’s so reliable and so deep,” said Mark staples, a gallatin 

national Forest avalanche Center forecaster. “there’s tons of 

great low angle skiing, steep skiing, and extreme skiing for the 

right conditions.” 

Zavora, who has been involved with the avalanche center for six 

years, will guide backcountry skiing and snowboarding and also 

offers avalanche and ski mountaineering courses. 

“this is as good as it gets for ski touring in the Lower 48,” 

Zavora said. - E.S. 

beartoothpowder.com 

ben zavora dropping in off miller mountain, with wolverine and 

abundance in the background. photo bY beau fredlund 


Mountain 

11

PEOPLE GETTING THE GNFAC 

ADVISORY EVERY DAY 

ESTIMATED HIGHWAY MILES DRIVEN 

TO ACCESS THE FIELD 

MILES LOGGED ON EACH OF THE TWO 

YAMAHA NYTRO SNOWMOBILES THAT WERE 

DONATED BY COOKE CITY MOTORSPORTS 

WEB 

MTAVALANCHE.COM 

GALLATIN NATIONAL FOREST AVALANCHE CENTER 

INFOGRAPHIC BY KELSEY DZINTARS // DATA FROM 2011/2012 SEASON COURTESY OF GNFAC 

IN THE GALLATIN NATIONAL 

FOREST SINCE GNFAC’S 

INCEPTION IN 1990 

DAYS 

VOLUNTEERS 

ACCOMPANIED THE 

GNFAC IN THE FIELD 

DOUG CHABOT, 

GNFAC DIRECTOR 

GALLONS OF COFFEE 

DOWNED BY DOUG 

(ESTIMATE) 

@AvalancheGuys 

$4,296 

ADMINISTRATIVE 

SUPPORT 

$6,200 

WEATHER 

STATIONS 

$258,000 

TOTAL NUMBER OF 

AVALANCHE CLASSES 

TAUGHT 

INDIVIDUAL ATTENDEES 

NUMBER OF LEVEL 2 

AVALANCHE CERTIFICATION 

CLASSES OFFERED FOR 

SNOWMOBILERS BY 

THE GNFAC - THE ONLY 

OFFERED IN THE U.S., EVER 

$2,500 

SNOWMOBILES 

$29,681 

EDUCATION 

AMOUNT FRIENDS OF THE 

GNFAC HAVE SPENT IN 

SUPPORT OF THE CENTER 

SINCE 1992

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HEalTH 

everest: 

the medical mountain 

Why does one critically ill patient survive while another does 

not? equally, why can one climber summit everest while his 

partner must turn around? 

“the link may not appear obvious,” says Dr. adam sheperdigian, 

a research fellow at the uCL Centre of altitude, space, 

and extreme environment Medicine, “but both scenarios 

demonstrate a condition known as hypoxia, an inability to 

deliver enough oxygen to support the body’s vital organs.” 

as a climber ascends to extreme altitude, he has less oxygen 

with each breath. During a slow, calculated ascent, his body 

negates this by increasing breathing rate and producing red 

blood cells. For some this acclimatization occurs without fail, 

while others develop critical and even fatal conditions. 

Dr. sheperdigian works with the Xtreme everest team, a 

specialist unit of medical providers and scientists using “the 

highest laboratory in the world,” Mount everest, to learn 

more about hypoxia. 

the team started work in 2007, studying more than 200 

healthy volunteers in everest base Camp. the scientists also 

performed exercise tests at the 25,938-foot south Col and 

collected arterial blood samples just below the 29,029-foot 

summit. returning in spring 2013, Xtreme everest will 

study a wider demographic, including children, identical 

twins and the indigenous sherpa population. 

learn more at xtreme-everest.co.uk. 


above: Xtreme everest team at the hillary step 

l: lab at everest base camp 

photos courtesY of Xtreme eVerest 

Mountain 

15

16 Mountain explorebigsky.com

CoMMuNITy 

the BlaCkFEET 

CoMMuNITy CollEGE 

liVing off the land with 

modern technologY 

Chief Mountain, elevation 9080 

feet, sits between glacier Park and 

the blackfeet indian reservation, 

near the Canadian border. it jets up 

from the surrounding foothills and is 

the first thing you see on the way to 

the reservation from Cut bank. 

“that mountain is very important 

to our people,” says terry tatsey, a 

member of the blackfeet tribe. “it 

marks the northern area of our summer 

hunting grounds.” 

a sense of loss hangs in the air here, 

an unspoken knowledge that the 

nomadic lifestyle of his tribe disappeared 

in the late 1800s, with the 

near extinction of the american 

bison which they hunted and relied 

on for their entire way of life. 

Following this loss, the blackfeet 

culture’s lifestyle was hampered by 

immobility and dependency. the 

tribe suffered from widespread 

starvation and illness. 

the land today speaks to the stewardship 

of thousands of years, the 

way its people have treated it dif- 

photo: a blackfeet man plays a traditional drum in front of chief mountain. 

bY katie morrison 

photos bY chris daVis 

the land northeast of glacier national Park has a 

raw, striking beauty. 

Here, wildflowers form droplets of color amid tall 

grasses in summer, teal blue water refracts glacial 

sediment, and waterfalls pour over monumental 

cliffs. Winter storms replenish the mountains’ 

crisp white glaciers, and winds howl through dry 

plains surrounding the foothills. 

such wildness makes it hard to imagine that an 

entire people has inhabited this region in great 

numbers since the early 1700s. 

the harsh climate requires strength to survive, 

and offers grand rewards for the accomplishment. 

this strength is a quality the blackfeet nation has 

demonstrated for more than 300 years. 


ferently here. unlike many other 

parts of the state, nearly all the 

plants are native on the reservation. 

With very few fences, the horses 

and cows graze together. 

the clouds tend to linger on mountaintops, 

instead of being blown in 

by the gusty winds. 

Combined with the slow, even cadence 

of tatsey’s voice, it’s enough 

to transport you to another time, 

another culture, another place. 

Mountain 

17

CoMMuNITy 

blackfeet community college’s southwind lodge is a leed platinum-certified building. 

the reservation is headquartered 

in browning, a town of 1,000. the 

tribe’s rich history and colorful past 

is not immediately evident here. 

Photo © Will Wissman 

MAKING DREAMS REALITY 

WWW.SEABA-HELI.COM 

HAINES, AK 

Poverty seeps through the main street, 

reflecting a near 70 percent unemployment 

rate and the substance abuse 

issues that mire the community. 

the blackfeet Community College 

is a beacon of hope among the dilapidated 

buildings. its recently built, 

LeeD Platinum-certified southwind 

Lodge stands as a symbol of 

what is possible. 

built as part of a 10-year master 

plan for the campus, the lodge also 

exemplifies bCC’s motto: “remember 

our past, build our future.” 

the building embraces the historic 

blackfeet tradition of living off the 

land – but does so through use of 

modern technology. the prospect 

of utilizing energy from the ground 

and sun are certainly not new ideas; 

rather, they are a return to what 

the blackfeet people have always 

known.

CoMMuNITy 

“if you step back and think, they 

really have it right,” said Wayne 

Freeman, of Cta architects, who is 

managing the project. “they know 

what is important to teach kids. 

everything needs to have a green 

component to it – it’s part of their 

heritage to protect the land.” 

the master plan also addresses 

other issues that create roadblocks 

to higher education. onsite student 

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and recreation center, and a common 

area will provide a supportive 

atmosphere and the resources that 

will allow students to finish their 

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students from the reservation who 

attend bCC before going on to a 

four-year university have a much 

higher success rate than those who 

go directly from high school, according 

to bCC President, billie Jo 

Kipp. 

Future goals include constructing 

additional energy efficient buildings 

that emulate the southwind 

Lodge. Planning for this expansion 

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energy were considered, as well as 

education initiatives. 

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the vision: upon graduation, 

students will have workforce skills 

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industries in the region including 

green energy, ranching, land 

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construction. Having an educated 

workforce will help individuals, 

tatsey says, and contribute to a 

healthier community. 

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outboundgallery 


patrick orton 

l: taylor lyman blasting deep in the cooke city backcountry. 

r: livingston local matt stott highmarking a pristine powder face in cooke. 

patrickortonphotography.com

outbound 


gill montgomery 

celebrate winter 

l-r: dash kamp, Jason arens, 

pete arneson and noah curry 

gillmontgomeryphoto@gmail.com


tyler BusBy 

“Forest and corla, eureka, Mt.” from the 

series Warm light on a Winter’s day 

tylerbusbyphotography.com 

Mountain 

23

outbound 

greg mather 

the frozen landscape of paradise Valley, 

emigrant peak on the right 

gregmather.com 



Mountain 

25

outbound 


Mark weBer 

Sam Macke climbing a variation 

to the double pillar in the Mother 

lode area, Snake river canyon, 

near twin Falls, idaho. 

markweberphoto.com


audrey hall 

Classic beauty, powerful voice: 

Montana jazz musician Jeni Fleming 

audreyhall.com 

facebook.com/jenifleming 

Mountain 

27

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tales 

Sacred 

by Mike Mannelin | photo by ryan turner 

the snow cloud settles on our gear pile as the helicopter 

disappears out of sight. the rotor chop fades over the 

next ridge, leaving us in silence on top of the mountain. 

snow-covered peaks surround us. every breath up here is 

sacred. 

i click into my skis, tighten my pack straps, and slide 

sideways for a second before pointing my skis toward 

the entrance. then the earth falls away into an unknown 

specter of white. the face of the mountain is in full view 

below me. it’s hard to tell the difference between humility 

and masked fear. Perhaps they exist together. 

the first turn sends dry, grainy, surface hoar powder into 

my face. With all my being, i release myself to gravity. 

this is where i find myself. the consequences of letting 

go of my edges are nonexistent. the run-out negates any 

need for grasp or tight grip on life. there is no hint of 

confinement. My skis are enablers. 

i think about oxygen. i think about freedom. i think 

about why i’m here. Why me? How? it doesn’t make 

sense at this moment. the human brain is too complex – 

or maybe it’s just too simple. 

gathering all the energy of my freefall, i turn my skis 

sideways and push against a cloud. the feeling under 

my feet couldn’t possibly be replicated by anything else. 

there is a perfect balance that comes from pure energy 

transfer, from deep within the soul, back to the universe. 

it leaves me charged and full of wonder. 

Finally, i come to rest in the valley. the faces of my 

friends around me share a knowing smile. they, too, have 

undergone transformations. We burst out laughing. 

this is life. We belong to something so precious, and at 

the same time, so heavy. it’s a great responsibility, and 

we must take this feeling into the rest of our lives. We 

can try to share it, but only indirectly, through positive 

vibrations and genuine smiles. 

We are skiers. 


deScribe your perFect Ski 

this essay was 

adapted from an email 

mike mannelin wrote 

to custom ski builder 

pete wagner. 

“i was imagining what 

the perfect ski would 

be like on my feet; and then i dropped in,” 

mannelin says. 

based in telluride, colorado, wagner 

custom skis are made to order, one pair at a 

time, using ultra high-quality materials in a 

shop powered entirely by wind and solar. 

wagner’s process starts with mapping your 

personal skier dna. sound scientific? it is. 

precisely matching your body metrics with 

your ski style, desired use and performance 

needs, allows him to truly customize a ski 

that fits your personality on the slopes. 

for mannelin, the follow up phone call with 

wagner was a thrill in itself. 

“i [spent] an hour and a half on the phone 

with another skier, talking about skiing 

powder. we came up with a perfect design 

for my skis, adding a little width here, a little 

rocker there, and bomb proofing the construction. 

he sent me an email with a drawing 

of the shape and a description, saying 

the boys in the shop were ‘stoked to build 

this ski’.” Get custom – wagnerskis.com 

- megan paulson 

the author shredding spines outside of haines, alaska. 

photo bY rYan turner rYanturnerphotographY.com

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NoW 

brian 

SchWeitzer 

a goVernor and hiS plan to 

change the World 

by JoSeph t. o’connor | photoS by brian nileS 


NoW 

brian sCHWeitZer Points to a Fur 

HiDe LYing neXt to a natiVe aMeriCan 

HeaDDress on His oFFiCe tabLe. 

“You ever held a skunk pelt before?” he asks. 

it’s october 2012, three months before the termlimited 

Montana governor will leave office. 

Holding the pelt in a calloused hand, he talks about 

special interest groups and how they’ve learned to 

steer clear of the Capitol building in Helena. schweitzer 

says he removed all lobbyists from his commissions 

and boards once he took office in 2004. 

“i keep this skunk pelt in here so i don’t forget what 

they look and smell like.” 

During the 2012 election season, Montana was a 

focal point for the nation as voters sifted through 

political messages, numbed by tens of thousands 

of negative campaign ads. Millions in outside cash 

poured into the state, spinning the heads of anyone 

following the news. 

While schweitzer kept a close eye on the issues this 

fall, the race wasn’t his to win. after eight years in 

the public eye, Montana term limits say he must go, 

but the governor won’t be cleaning everything out of 

his office. He’s leaving tracks. 

schweitzer, 57, has amassed an unprecedented 

budget surplus, and signed bills for early education, 

renewable energy, tourism and jobs. He’s exercised 

his power to veto 130 times, taking down laws that 

would have shortchanged public schools and eliminated 

same-day voter registration. He is leaving 

office with a 61 percent approval rating. 

that’s the governor on paper. in person, he’s larger 

than life. 

He’s 6’2”. He wears big boots and big belt buckles. He 

owns big ranches with big tractors. He dreams big. 

but schweitzer is accessible. He tells stories that 

ground him in Montana, connecting him to its 

people and to a house on a dirt road, where he sees 

himself after his last day in office on Jan. 7 – at least 

temporarily. 

the rest of the country got its first taste of governor 

schweitzer at the 2008 Democratic national Convention, 

where he delivered a speech that catapulted 

him into the national spotlight. 

adorned in his trademark bolo tie, schweitzer told 

the convention his family story – how his grandparents 

immigrated to Montana “with nothing more 

than the shirts on their backs, high hopes and faith in 

god.” 

He spoke of how his parents had two things in their 

house he’ll never forget. the first was a crucifix. the 

second was a framed picture of John F. Kennedy on 

their kitchen wall. 

schweitzer’s parents never graduated high school, 

but “President Kennedy’s idealism and spirit of the 

possibility inspired them to send all six of their children 

to college.” 

and when he said ‘We’re going to the moon,’” 

schweitzer said, pointing skyward at the convention, 

“he showed us that no challenge was insurmountable.” 

the governor opened his address sounding like the 

down home rancher he is, an amiable neighbor you 

might invite to sunday dinner. He closed by bringing 

the convention to its feet, calling for national energy 

independence and a collective belief that together we 

can change the world. He closed as a leader. 


Mountain 

35

NoW 

the governor in october 2012, on the grand staircase in the capitol building. 

Montana is traDitionaLLY a reD state. 

until 2004, it hadn’t elected a Democratic governor in two 

decades. the treasure state has voted for just two Democratic 

presidential candidates since 1952. 

so, how did a Democrat get elected here the same year the 

state voted overwhelmingly to re-elect republican President 

george W. bush? 

schweitzer tells a story about bill Clinton’s path to politics, 

illustrating a difference between the two politicians. When 

the former president was 13, he knew networking would 

lead him to Washington. 

“He used to go to conferences and get every single person’s 

mailing address, and he’d send them a nice note,” schweitzer 

said. “He’d check in with them a couple times a year because 

he knew what he wanted to do.” 

schweitzer didn’t do this; he never expected to be governor. 

His path led to Libya the day after he defended his thesis in 

soil science at Montana state university in bozeman. From 

there, he spent seven years in saudi arabia working on irrigation 

projects intended to boost the area’s agriculture. He’s 

now fluent in arabic. 

“the people i was meeting were either arabs or europeans or 

africans,” schweitzer said. “and i don’t think any of them 

can vote for me here in Montana.” 

in 1986, he returned to Montana to raise cattle at his Whitefish 

ranch. 


“i never thought too much about politics,” said the 

husband and father of three. “i voted and read the 

newspaper like a lot of folks do, and once in a while i’d 

flip on the sunday morning television programs to see 

what the heck was happening back there in Washington, 

D.C.” 

but if somebody would have suggested, ‘You’re someday 

gonna run for governor,’ i would have said, ‘governor 

of what?’” 

over the years, schweitzer noticed trends and changes 

in the business climate, in education and in the greater 

community of Montana. He began asking questions. 

“You find out the people running this [government] 

stuff – they either aren’t very informed or they’re not 

very smart.” For a while, though, he said, he “was a 

complainer like everybody else.” 

then someone asked him, if he was so smart, why 

didn’t he run for governor. 

“it sounded kind of crazy to me,” schweitzer said. but 

he realized holding public office was something he had 

to do. 

“i thought, if regular people with a common sense 

background don’t step up, the same cast of characters 

will continue to run the state into the ground.”

NoW 

tWo PHotograPHs stanD out in tHe LobbY 

oF sCHWeitZer’s HeLena oFFiCe. 

in one, schweitzer, in his usual jeans, boots and bolo tie, 

kneels next to his border collie, Jet. the other is Lieutenant 

governor John bohlinger sporting a bow tie, the american 

flag in the background. 

these photos might have been opposite each other on a campaign 

ad, but here they’re mounted side-by-side. schweitzer 

chose bohlinger, a republican, as his right-hand man in 

2004. 

the partnership has worked, schweitzer says, because both 

men were willing to challenge their bases in order to meet in 

the middle. 

Politics isn’t a popularity contest, schweitzer says. 

“You’ve got to articulate what yer fer, and what yer against,” 

he said, in an exaggerated Montana accent. “and what yer fer 

– ya gotta be willin’ to fight for it.” 

“i thought, if regular people 

with a common sense background 

don’t step up, the 

same cast of characters will 

continue to run the state into 

the ground.” 

He’ll reach across the aisle, but schweitzer is no pushover. 

three photos hanging near his office door show former president 

Lyndon b. Johnson talking with a congressman. 

schweitzer narrates: 

“Here, LbJ is saying, ‘this is a good idea. i think we can both 

agree on this. the senator is saying, ‘Well, i’m not so sure.’” 

in the second photo, Johnson is face-to-face with the congressman, 

leaning in, angry. in the third, Johnson has a 

finger in the chest of the cowering congressman, who is bent 

backward over a desk. 


Mountain 

37

NoW 

schweitzer jabs a finger at the photo. “LbJ is saying, ‘i’m 

not going to take no for an answer.’” 

that’s what you do,” schweitzer says. “You first romance 

them, tell them how beautiful their wife is. You ask them 

if they’ve been working out. but at some point, you tell 

them, ‘Look here, you little son of a bitch, this is the way 

it’s gonna be.’ that’s how you get things done.” 

the governor pulls his four-foot “Veto” branding iron 

from behind his desk. “You ever hold a hot iron brand 

before?” he asks. 

on april 13, 2011, schweitzer famously stood on the steps 

of the Capitol building and vetoed 17 bills with this iron, 

the paper catching fire with each brand. He called the bills 

“frivolous, unconstitutional, and just bad ideas,” and seven 

of them are now displayed on wooden planks in the statehouse 

lobby, their numbers and the word “Veto” seared 

into the wood. 

in total, schweitzer vetoed 79 bills in 2011 - 60 more than 

any previous Montana governor had in a year. He’s never 

had one overridden by the state Congress. 

one veto had major significance for Montana travel destinations. 

House bill 316, according to schweitzer, would have 

cut state tourism funds and promotions by $6 million. 

“i vetoed that because tourism is such a big part of Montana’s 

industry,” he said, noting that the industry supports 

25,000 small businesses in the state. and Montana, he says, 

is like a business itself: You have to promote the product. 

in april 2012, schweitzer drove a semi truck through 

times square, new York City. He leaned out the window, 

speaking into a bullhorn, “like a political P.t. barnum,” 

wrote The Denver Post. 

schweitzer’s 18-wheeler was wrapped in a giant vinyl banner 

reading, “Montana: gateway to Yellowstone.” 

bozeman had a new direct flight from newark, new Jersey, 

and the governor wanted to promote it. 

“Who better,” he said. “nobody loves this state more than 

i do.” 


schweitzer shows off his ‘veto’ branding iron. 

schweitzer will leave behind an estimated surplus of $457 

million for the state. alongside what he called “the greatest 

investments in new education and the greatest tax cuts 

in history,” it’s something he’s proud of. 

as part of his final budget submission to the 2013 legislature, 

the governor proposed using part of the surplus to 

freeze college tuition costs, his third such proposal. 

schweitzer said his most important investment in education 

was for full-time, state-funded kindergarten. 

“Let’s say you [live with] your grandmother on an indian 

reservation, and english isn’t her first language. What are 

the chances you’ll start first grade on an even keel with 

the rest of the first graders?” 

early education, he says, is key to a child’s progression 

through higher education and ultimately to landing a 

good job. He maintains that if children don’t read at a first 

grade level by the end of first grade, they never catch up. 

“in 25 years, we won’t remember who was governor when 

these kids are changing the world, as 30-year-old adults 

with college degrees. We won’t know and we won’t care.” 

but brian schweitzer will know.

NoW 

uPon LeaVing oFFiCe, sCHWeitZer’s DreaM 

is to return to his roots and the tranquil life on 

his ranch. He has always lived at the end of a dirt 

road, except in college and during his eight years as 

governor. 

but he gets a gleam in his eye when discussing 

future political office. 

the last year has seen schweitzer bounce from talk 

shows with Letterman and bill Maher, to nYC and 

this year’s DnC. He’s basking in the media attention. 

“nobodY loVes 

this state more 

than i do.” 

PLAY VIDEOS TO 

LEARN MORE AT 

FLATHEADLAKETIMBER.COM 

His conversations with delegates from new Hampshire 

and iowa in september 2012 drew national 

interest, because they help decide who receives 

presidential nominations. 

“Maybe i spoke to south Carolina, too,” schweitzer 

said, grinning. “i might have even talked to nevada. 

but i don’t know why that’s a collection of states one 

would care about.” 

then he laughed. 

“i’m not gonna rule anything in, or anything out,” he 

said. “but i’m not looking to be elected [to national 

office] just to be elected. i would do it, but only if i 

thought we could change the world together.” 

Joseph T. O’Connor is an editor of Mountain outlaw. 

CREATE FROM Montana HISTORY 

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culture 

by bradley berMont 


dual citizenS 

it’s the last week of the olympics and Colleen Williams, coanchor 

for nbC4 Los angeles is driving to work. she’s been 

working for the past 28 days: an onslaught of olympians and 

olympiads, culminating in exhaustion. she wants to be in big 

sky with her husband Jon and their son. 

on the other side of the city, in the heart of West La, an agent 

is calling Clay Lorinsky’s law office. His secretary answers and 

asks if the agent wouldn’t mind holding for a moment while 

she tracks him down. 

since they’re dialing a 310 area code and a secretary on 

Wilshire is answering, “Mr. Lorinsky’s office,” his clients don’t 

realize that he’s picking up the phone from 406. 

His secretary calls, asks if he’s free, and tells him his client, an 

agent, is on the line. Lorinsky asks her to put him through then 

takes a sip of morning coffee in his home office under Yellow 

Mountain. He’s in his gym shorts with no shirt on, and it’s 

surprising how muscular this middle-aged lawyer is. 

unlike Williams, Lorinsky isn’t dreaming of Montana, he’s 

living in it, and he’s been waiting for this call. there’s a tV deal 

in the works with one of the cable networks, and he may be 

your oFFice iS on WilShire, right? 

pulling at what’s left of his hair if this doesn’t pan out. they’ve 

invested many hours in negotiation, not to mention the tens of 

thousands of dollars sunk into the pilot of this non-disclosable 

television show. 

they banter for nearly an hour before things start wrapping 

up. as they’re making a date for their next meeting, face-toface 

in Lorinsky’s office, the agent asks him, “Your office is on 

Wilshire, right?” 

Lorinsky has his feet up on the desk, leaning back in his chair. 

“Hasn’t moved since the last time.” 

“i go back to La once every five weeks, give or take,” he says. 

During a week-long stint, he’ll have two to four meetings a 

day, not including lunches and dinners with every client and 

friend he can schedule, plus his normal workload, which is 

nearly nonstop. there’s always more business to be had, he 

says, and, “as much as i hate to do it, it’s pretty hard to bring in 

new clients without leaving big sky.” 

Colleen Williams faces an opposite difficulty – it’s tough to 

broadcast the news from big sky. unlike Clay, she can’t get to 

Montana more than three or four times a year. sometimes, she 

visits for just a weekend.

ig Sky & loS angeleS 

as she walks into nbC’s burbank studio, she’s ready for 

this olympics week to be over. outside, it’s nearly 100 

degrees. 

“it is just a plane ride away,” she says of big sky. “When 

there’s a direct flight, it’s great. i’ll get on at 6 p.m. and land 

at midnight. i don’t mind getting an hour or two of sleep 

the night before, because there’s such an anticipation when 

i get there. it’s so calm, quiet and peaceful.” 

in 2005, she was taken aback when her husband Jon said he 

was buying land in Montana. she hadn’t ever been there, 

and she asked him, “out of all the places, what could be in 

Montana?” 

“if i don’t buy it, someone else will,” he said. 

it didn’t take more than a season before she was sold. now 

seven years later, she says, “We couldn’t be more fortunate 

to have it.” 

in normal conversation with Williams, you can hear the 

sound bites and the newscaster authority, but when big 

sky comes up, her voice drifts toward nostalgia. 

l: big Sky photo by greg Mather r: la photo by royce gorSuch 

“it’s the winters that i find really spectacular. it could be zero 

degrees outside, and you’re still snowshoeing under blue 

skies.” 

she loves cross country skiing, while Jon is more partial to 

downhill. Chalk it up to the serenity of nature or the short lift 

lines accessing the “biggest skiing in america,” but winter had 

an allure they couldn’t escape. 

neither could Lorinsky. 

“if you’re going to be a second homeowner, especially for a 

ski home, you’re gonna be doing most of your skiing there,” 

Lorinsky says. “For me at least, big sky is the only mountain 

that i thought could keep me entertained.” 

a friend introduced him to the area in 1993, but he didn’t 

switch to dual-residency until 2005. Just prior to that, he was 

offered an opportunity to run business affairs at Warner bros. 

“ultimately, it was a lifestyle choice. there’s no way i could do 

that and live like this.” He points out the window toward the 

mountainside of Douglas-firs behind his home. earlier in the 

week, he saw a mother moose and her calf walk across his yard. 


Mountain 

41

culture 

“You can’t have your cake and eat it 

too,” he says, shrugging. 

Williams attests: “it’s not easy to 

do with the hours,” referring to her 

schedule of starting work at 11 a.m. 

or noon and wrapping up close to 

midnight, sometimes later during 

high stress seasons or the olympics. 

“You’re never free from work. 

there’ve been a few times where i 

was in big sky and something big 

happened in La, like an earthquake, 

and we discussed coming back.” Last 

spring she left her vacation early 

to cover the tsunamis that ravaged 

Japan. 

traveling with her earpiece, Williams 

can report from anywhere. 


“i could be in the bozeman airport, 

saying ‘this is so big, people here are 

looking at it,’ and that would end up 

on the news in La.” or on the news in 

Montana, which anyone with an nbC 

West Coast feed could tell you. 

she’s been stopped walking through the 

Meadow Village and standing in the 

Hungry Moose when someone will look 

at her, do a double take and– “aren’t you 

that woman from nbC?” 

“it’s weird to see yourself on tV in 

Montana,” she says, laughing. 

but for Lorinsky, it’s almost comforting 

to watch the 6 o’clock news 

to see what’s happening in La. 

Williams and her teammates are a 

constant, whether the lawyer is in 

Montana or La. often, it’s a reminder 

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why he spends so much time away 

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only experienced “Carmageddon” 

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helicopters to work) from his den in 

big sky. 

Like Williams says, “i’m neutralized 

[in big sky]. stress free.” 

they’re dual citizens, drawn to big 

sky for similar reasons. 

For Clay Lorinsky, it’s not vacationing; 

it’s work with a chance of 

vacation. For Colleen Williams, it’s 

vacation with a chance of business. 

even so, they both agree: there’s no 

place they’d rather be. 

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43

code name: catch22 

Q + a 

location: afghanistan 

Sniper in the VineS 

by erik Meridian | Photos by Catch-22 

occupation: sniper 


country: usa 

a wine maker finds himself 

in the vineyards of afghanistan 

training: military combat

Many of the grape rows he stalks 

through in Zharay are owned by the 

very taliban fighters he seeks. each 

vineyard he enters offers a fresh 

chance at death, either by mined trip 

wire, pressure-plate ieD or the crackthump 

of aK-47 fire. Commander 

of a u.s. army sniper team known as 

Catch-22, he’s the deadliest soldier 

on the battlefield and is the taliban’s 

greatest prize. 

there is irony here: once upon a 

time, Kurt felt at peace in the vines. 

in his previous life, he was a winegrower 

in the u.s. 

at times Catch-22 may be folded into 

a nine-man patrol and act as squaddesignated 

marksmen responsible 

for laying down accurate, long-range 

fire in enemy contact. often they’re 

tasked with sniper over-watch from a 

concealed position, where they support 

a larger operation with powerful 

optics and weapons capable of reaching 

farther than 1,500 meters. 

their favorite missions, however, are 

those involving ambushes. in these, 

snipers work with infantry to engage 

the enemy and force them to flee into 

a prearranged kill zone where sniper 

fire and helicopter gunships await. 

the team’s arsenal includes the M110 

7.62 mm semi-automatic sniper 

system, the bolt-action XM2010 300 

WinMag sniper Weapon system and 

the M107 barrett .50-caliber sniper 

rifle. each also carries an M4 carbine, 

and the team leader has a M320 40 

mm grenade launcher. Complementing 

these weapons are state-of-the-art 

optics including an array of day, night 

and thermal optics that allow observation 

several kilometers out. 

the mastery of this equipment and 

the knowledge to choose the right 

tool requires an average of 18 months 

of intense training and preparation. Far 

more important than the toys is the 

ability to make quick and correct decisions 

based on limited information. 

target detection, range estimation, 

land navigation and stealth movement 

are all part of sniper field craft. 

in this game, lives depend on mere 

scraps of intelligence, and the sniper’s 

intuition and experience often makes 

the difference. 


“We were selected for this duty because 

we are independent operators,” 

Kurt says. “We look at situations 

differently than the normal infantryman.” 

sometimes being a sniper is a lonely 

job, and the training reinforces selfreliance. 

Catch-22 often spends hours 

watching an area, learning about the 

patterns of life there. that way, when 

something out of the ordinary occurs, 

they can react. 

as the 11-year conflict in afghanistan 

winds down, the public pressure 

to reduce civilian casualties abroad 

and veteran casualties at home has 

altered the way in which the u.s. 

wages war. gone are the days of overwhelming 

firepower, night operations 

and air strikes. What remains 

is a battlefield that has nullified 

many of the tactical and technological 

advantages once held by coalition 

forces. in response to this new reality, 

commanders on the ground rely 

increasingly on snipers to provide 

pinpoint lethality against an elusive, 

yet deadly enemy. 

Mountain 

45

“ 

they’re 

taking 

serious 

risks to 

get the joB 

done, and 

they often 

can’t spot 

potential 

danger 

until it’s 

too late. 

Erik Meridian conducted this 

interview with Catch-22 sniper team 

members Kurt and Anthony in August 

and September 2012 when they 

were in Zharay, Afghanistan. Kurt, 

32, selected and trained Anthony, 

27, based on Anthony’s skill set and 

ability to operate independently in 

a high-pressure environment. All 

quotes are from Kurt, unless otherwise 

noted. 

you’vE saID ZHaRay Is 

“THE BIRTHplaCE oF THE 

TalIBaN.” WHaT DoEs THaT 

MEaN? 

Have you heard of Mullah omar? 

He’s the one-eyed spiritual leader 

of the taliban who sheltered 

osama bin Laden and al-Qaida in 

afghanistan, allowing them to plan 

and execute the 9/11 attacks from a 

safe haven. Mullah omar was born 

in a little village called nodeh, in 

the Zharay District of the Kandahar 

Province. nodeh is 1.5 kilometers 

“ 

Q&a WITH a sNIpER 


from where we’re sitting. i can 

literally see his house from here. 

Lucky for him he’s not home. 

WHaT’s youR FavoRITE 

WEapoN? Do THEy TakE oN 

THEIR oWN pERsoNalITIEs? 

they sure do. each one has a name. 

My M4 with the M320 grenade 

launcher is called Hungry Joe, 

after the character in Catch-22, the 

novel. He’s feisty and relentless. He 

goes on every mission and never 

leaves my side. My partner’s gun, 

the M110 sass, that’s scarlet. 

she’s a sassy minx who’ll slap the 

shit out of you, especially with the 

suppressor attached. 

the XM2010 is called Closing 

time after the Joseph Heller sequel 

to Catch-22. it makes sense since 

the 2010 is the follow-up to the 

army’s old M24 remington 700, 

which is, to answer your first 

question, my favorite weapon. it’s 

simple, clean, and effective. it’s 

what i learned with when i became 

a sniper, and you never forget your 

first love. 

as for the M107 barrett, the celebrity 

of the bunch and the biggest, 

we call it orion’s bow. it’s a behemoth, 

and it takes a stud to handle 

it. one round from this rifle will 

change the complexion of a battlefield 

in a heartbeat. it’s designed to 

intimidate and destroy by punching 

through anything in its way, be it 

a vehicle, a brick building, or some 

unlucky schmuck shooting at my 

guys. 

so, HoW MuCH oF a WINE 

GuRu aRE you? WHaT’s 

youR BaCkGRouND? 

i studied Food science and Food 

Manufacturing operations at 

Purdue university and was trained 

by some of the best. one of my

Q + a 

professors, Dr. richard Vine, is a 

legend. a contemporary of robert 

Mondavi, who wrote the foreword 

of Vine’s textbooks, he founded the 

indy international Wine Competition, 

one of the world’s largest. 

i worked in the enology Lab at 

Purdue, facilitated the school’s 

wine competition in 2002, and 

began working for Chalet Debonné 

Vineyards that fall. i came back 

and graduated in 2003, and then 

became the assistant winemaker for 

Lakeridge Winery and san sebastian 

Winery in Florida. We made 

everything from cream sherry and 

ruby port, to méthode champenoise 

sparkling wines where we handriddled 

the bottles. our red and 

white table wines, both dry and 

sweet, were consistent crowd pleasers 

and award winners. 

the most exciting time was during 

and right after harvest. Walking 

the vineyards, deciding when to 

harvest, working 80-plus hours a 

week to process the fruit, running 

the presses, starting the fermentation, 

and starting to blend after the 

first racking...it’s addictive. tasting 

a wine that has reached its potential 

– something you’ve helped shepherd 

and craft– is really fulfilling. 

those vines become your life. You 

know them better than you know 

yourself. 

Later, i was a wine manager with 

total Wine and More for four 

years and traveled to wine regions 

throughout the u.s. and europe. 

by age 26, i was running the sales 

floor of their $62 million per year 

wine retail superstore outside 

Philadelphia. 

TEll ME aBouT WalkING 

THRouGH THEsE 

DaNGERous GRapE RoWs IN 

aFGHaNIsTaN. 

it’s funny how life comes full circle, 

but with little ironic twists. i used 

to walk through the vineyards 

every morning and evening. it was 

the best part of my day. now during 

a mission, when i watch the sunrise 

through the vines, i’m very aware 

that my next step could be my last. 

My greatest love may be the death 

of me if i don’t watch my step. 

WHaT’s youR BIGGEsT FEaR 

WHEN you’RE ouT THERE? 

as snipers, we’re the eyes and ears of 

our unit. We look over their shoulders 

and watch their backs when 

they’re sweeping for ieD’s, carrying 

tons of equipment, moving toward 

an objective, totally exposed. We had 

to earn their trust over time. they’re 

taking serious risks to get the job 

done, and they often can’t spot potential 

danger until it’s too late. 

When insurgents are moving 

through grape rows or behind walls, 

we have a chance to stop them or 

alert the unit. if we failed our friends 

that would be something we’d have 

trouble living with. that fear keeps 

us sharp. 

WHaT aBouT youR oWN 

lIvEs? 

at this point, we’ve taken out our 

share of taliban fighters. if they get 

us now, we’ve still done more damage 

to them than they have to us. However, 

we recognize we’re trophies. 

they’re gunning for us. there have 

been prices on our heads since we 


arrived here. if we give away the fact 

that we’re snipers, all hell rains down 

on us. that means they’re afraid of 

us. they know the name Catch-22. 

they gather intel just like we do. it’s a 

high stakes game of hide and seek, and 

we’re determined to keep winning. 

i have a very supportive family who 

loves me, but i’m single with no 

children. if i go, i leave no one behind. 

anthony, however, has two 

of the most adorable little daughters 

on the planet. 

To aNTHoNy: WHaT IF 

soMETHING HappENs To 

you? 

it won’t, but if it somehow did, 

Kurt promised to be there for my 

girls. they’re 2 and 4. i would want 

them to know who their father was 

– how much i love them and why 

i made the tough choices i did in 

order to provide for them. 

IN MosT sNIpER TEaMs 

THERE Is a pRIMaRy 

sHooTER aND a pRIMaRy 

spoTTER. WHo’s THE BETTER 

sHooTER? 

In unison: i am! (laughter) 

Anthony: but Kurt’s the better 

spotter. 

Kurt: For now, i just have more experience 

seeing bullet trace and calling 

wind. 

Anthony: He’s the team leader so he’s 

gotta work the radio and coordinate 

things. that means i get more time 

behind the gun, which is fine by me. 

Mountain 

47

Q + a 

WHy THE Call sIGN, 

CaTCH-22? 

Have you read the book? it applies 

perfectly. With the tight 

restrictions on rules of engagement 

and the lengthy process 

of establishing positive iD on a 

target before firing, soldiers often 

feel like they’re in a no-win situation. 

it’s important to maintain a 

sense of humor. if you lose that, 

morale goes downhill fast. 

also, you can spin it a different 

way. We believe we’ve got 

the taliban in a catch-22. if they 

stand and fight, they die. if they 

fight and run, they die...tired. 

Damned if you do, damned if you 

don’t. 

aRE you TEMpTED To MakE 

WINE ouT oF loCal GRapEs? 

the thought has crossed my mind, 

but that would be against regulations 

(winks). i could barter with farmers 

for fruit and use water jugs for 


fermenters. i’ve got the rubber tubing 

and mosquito netting to rack and filter. 

the grapes have indigenous yeast 

on their skin, so i wouldn’t need to 

inoculate. i’ve made award-winning 

wines with less. these vines aren’t 

like Vitis vinifera vines that grow in 

places like napa Valley or the Willamette 

Valley in oregon. the afghan 

grapes lack the sweetness and acidity 

needed to make the wine stable at 10 

– 12 percent alcohol, so you’d have to 

ameliorate (add sugar) during fermentation. 

but it could be done. 

Anthony: You’re such a nerd! 

Kurt: Yeah, i know. but in all seriousness, 

one big reason i don’t is because 

it would likely offend our afghan 

partners. alcohol consumption is a 

serious taboo in Muslim culture, and 

we need them on our side. 

WHy Is MaINTaINING a GooD 

RElaTIoNsHIp WITH aFGHaN 

solDIERs so IMpoRTaNT? 

this is their country. We’re just 

short-timers trying to make an impact 

and provide security. For us to go 

home with dignity, they must be 

ready to take the lead. 

our leadership has forced us to live 

and work in close proximity with the 

afghan national army, and we have 

no choice but to intertwine them into 

our lives. if they don’t patrol, we 

don’t patrol. our unit has decided to 

embrace them and make them brothers. 

We eat with them, fight with 

them, mourn with them, celebrate 

with them, learn their languages and 

customs well enough that if they 

were to turn on us, they’d be killing 

their brother. 

When an afghan soldier attacks 

coalition forces it’s called a green on 

blue incident. those have become 

the number two cause of death 

among american soldiers in afghanistan, 

second only to ieD’s. 

Continued on p. 50 

catch-22 at work

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Mountain 

49

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Q + a 

Continued from p. 48 

i want to make a stark differentiation between the ana 

that have committed the green on blue incidents, and 

the ones we work with. We’ll be disappointed to have to 

work with other guys. our ana are even more vulnerable 

than american infantry – they don’t have the same 

level of mine detection equipment, protective equipment, 

firepower or communications equipment – and they take 

more casualties because of the risks they run. american 

soldiers can’t go into someone’s house and search it anymore, 

so we have to ask them to do it. We take their safety 

very personally. 

but working with them is another catch-22. We have 

the opportunity to build a strong bond with them, but 

we also open ourselves up to serious risks. We hold our 

enemies close and our friends closer. so far, it’s working 

for us. the ana are brave, motivated and professional, 

but it’s always a work in progress. 

WHy HavE you CHosEN To sERvE? 

it’s part of my journey as a man and an american. 

When i was a kid, both my parents were schoolteachers, 

so we had summers off. i grew up in eastern indiana, and 

when i was 5, we took a summer-long vacation and went 

to every major park between illinois and Yosemite. the 

first time i ever went fishing was in Yellowstone national 

Park. i caught a little brook trout, and it was the coolest 

thing that ever happened to me. it was a perfect day. 

My dad is a special Forces Vietnam veteran. at that time, 

he was a difficult person to talk to, and fishing with him 

was almost therapeutic. We understood each other very 

well that day, and it was many years before we understood 

each other again to that same degree. Part of the 

reason i serve is to understand where he’s coming from. 

the memory of that day and others like it built my appreciation 

and love for the vast beauty of this country. Let’s 

face it: america isn’t perfect. However, i’m willing to 

serve and sacrifice for the sake of that one perfect day 

and the dream that eventually another one will come 

along. 

Erik Meridian, a pseudonym, is an American soldier 

serving in Catch-22’s unit in Afghanistan. His duty position 

prevents him from revealing his real name. 


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Aerial of Estate 311

explore 

33 

miles from dyea, alaska 

to lake bennett, british 

columbia 

a Postcard 

from chilkoot Pass 

it was 6:45 a.m., and i had been hiking for two hours 

through white mist on white snowfields. the summer 

snow crunched beneath my feet as i steadily kicked 

steps, heading toward a bright orange trail marker 

barely visible 100 feet ahead. beyond the marker, a 

steep, talus-covered hillside emerged from the fog as 

i came to the edge of the snowfield. i had reached the 

golden stairs. 

in 1898, more than 30,000 people walked this same 

path, lock-stepping up the snowy chute to the Chilkoot 

Pass, which separates southeast alaska from the Yukon. 

they were the “stampeders,” racing to the Klondike 

goldfields and hoping to strike it rich. 

back then, the area immediately below the stairs was 

a makeshift city called the scales. Here, the native 

tlingit packers increased their rates from 14 cents to 

$1 a pound for hauling goods up the pass. Packers and 

stampeders alike would make dozens of trips up the 

golden stairs, carrying between 50 and 100 pounds 

each time. 

gold pans, cast iron skillets and tightly wrapped bags 

of beans and flour were some of the usual supplies 

needed for a year of prospecting in the bitter north. a 

few creative entrepreneurs packed rolls of silk, cases of 

fresh eggs, live cats and contraband bottles of whiskey 

- all items that fetched premium prices in Dawson 

City. at the pass, the men cached their goods, turned 

around, and returned to the noisy collection of humanity 

at the scales to collect another load. 

now the valley was eerily quiet as i scrambled hand 

and foot up the boulders. not far ahead, i passed a 

family from Fairbanks whom i met in camp the night 

before. they were speaking quietly, as if trying not to 

disturb the ghosts that might haunt this pass. 

3,525 

feet of elevation gain and 

the height of chilkoot pass 

(trail starts at sea level) 


50 

number of hiking permits 

issued daily by klondike gold 

rush international historic 

park for modern-day hikers 

heading over the pass 

Story and photos by Corrie Parks 

2 Frères au Klondike 

mario and Jean, of montreal, were tracing the 

footsteps of their ancestor who joined the 1898 

stampede to the klondike. the brothers walked 

the trail in wool jackets, and leather boots, 

sleeping on folded blankets under a canvas 

shelter, cooking tinned beans and potted meat in 

a cast iron skillet. “we find gold in the scenery, in 

people, everywhere,” mario said. 

7,000 

estimated population of 

sheep camp during the 

height of the stampede, 

april 1898 

18 

population of sheep 

camp in July 1899 

after the white pass 

railroad to bennett 

was established and 

the chilkoot trail 

abandoned

Sentinel Over Deep Lake 

“why do i go to the wilderness? for the crystal clear streams and the cold winds off snowfields. for the warm, sun-baked granite. for the physical exercise - 

climbing, swimming, scrambling, glissading down soft snowfields. for the way food tastes after a day of all that. but mostly for the views...” - trail Journal - day 9 

22,000 

estimated number of 

stampeders that crossed 

over chilkoot pass in 

1898 

twisted cables and rusty cogs lay on the boulders 

around me, reminders of the tramway built 

in 1898 to haul gear for those who could pay. by 

1899, White Pass railroad in the adjacent valley 

had monopolized the route to the interior, and 

the Chilkoot trail was quickly abandoned. 

Wading through the whiteout, i breached the 

crest of the pass, the sound of a flag whipping in 

the wind ahead of me. a few steps later, a shelter 

materialized from the fog. a red maple leaf 

on the flag indicated i was now in Canada. 

inside, i fired up my stove to melt snow for 

drinking water, pulled out an array of colored 

$150,000 

customs duties for goods 

brought into canada 

collected by mounties 

stationed at the top of 

chilkoot pass 

7,124 

boats that set sail for 

dawson city from lake 

bennett when the ice 

finally broke in June 

1898 

pens and pencils and a stack of postcards, and sat 

down to wait. 

My hike on the Chilkoot trail was part of an 

artist-in-residence program, a joint venture with 

Parks Canada and the u.s. national Parks service, 

and i had plans for the backpackers adding their 

footsteps to the thousands before them. 

Hikers burst through the door in waves, steaming 

up the windows as they shed sweaty layers and 

devoured snacks. stories and laughter bounced 

around the tiny space. i offered hot tea and chocolate 

as i passed around postcards. 

0 this information is from 

trees left on the shores of 

lake bennett after all those 

boats were built (the forest has 

regrown in the last 100 years) 


Mountain 

klondike gold rush 

international historic park. 

interested in hiking the trail? 

learn more at nps.gov/klgo. 

53

Trail to Happy Camp 

“snow, snow and more snow! snow canyons 15 feet deep, carved by the river; cracks and fissures of glacial blue opening up. we walk on snow for most of the four 

miles to happy camp, where tired hikers revel in the first warm rays of the entire trail and moods rise with the barometer.” - trail Journal, day 7 

klondike letters Project 

for 13 days big sky resident corrie francis parks wandered the chilkoot trail, 

collecting postcards, talking to hikers and rangers, creating art and gathering 

ideas. this fall and winter, she’s working to compile her experiences into a series of 

animated documentaries and an art exhibition. more artwork, photos and stories on 

are available at klondikeletters.com. 


on location - corrie francis parks on the chilkoot trail.

WE DO 

BIG SKY 

FOOD 

THE WEST MAY BE WILD, 

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Five miles south of Big Sky entrance on Hwy 191 

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but it’s not uncivilized

explore 

“Write a postcard to yourself,” i instructed. “Write down one 

thing you want to remember from your journey up the Chilkoot 

Pass.” 

united StateS 

they wrote: 

“From knee deep water at the start, through beautiful forests and 

then starting for the pass at 4 a.m. Best of all, I did it with my 

daughter.” 

“I just experienced the most frightening day of my life. Extreme 

heights, horrible shoes and snowy hills have made me truly grateful 

to be alive. I love my life.” 

“I came north not to run away, but rather to prove something, to 

awaken a revival. I came for redemption, to save my soul in some 

way.” 

“Behind us is civilization... before us, vastness, silence, grandeur 

– stand alone on the summit... and realize what an atom in the 

universe you are.” 

“I want to remember that traveling solo is amazing and that I do 

not need a partner to have a great time.” 

“The look on Yanik’s face as he reached the summit and hearing the 

excitement in his voice as he said this was his favorite day. I want to 

remember to see the world like that; always fresh, always seeing.” 

“Another day in the North. Embrace the good! Honour, challenge, 

laughs, snow, friends and wool socks.” 

canada 

gulF 

oF alaSka 

kluane national 

park & reSerVe 

yukon 

britiSh coluMbia 

SkagWay 

bennett 

Ghosts on the Stairs 

“we all follow the orange stakes marking the saf-e path across 

the snow bridges, occasionally hearing the hidden rivers 

rushing under our feet. the stairs have shed their snow faster 

than the rest of the trail and it is pure scrambling from here.” 

trail Journal, day 3 

in these handwritten scribbles, i saw the answer to a 

question i’ve asked many times: Why do we seek out wild 

places? What are we experiencing there that we can’t find 

in our daily lives? 

as the hikers packed up to continue their journeys, i 

collected the postcards and tucked them away. i planned 

to keep them for a year and then, when the memories of 

this moment have lost their sharp edges, drop them in the 

mail. My hope is that the act of creating these postcards and 

receiving the physical artifact in the future will be vivid 

catalysts for remembering wilderness. 

though the stampeders were seeking gold in the Klondike 

wilderness, the vast majority didn’t find their fortune. 

From their letters and diaries, we can see they found other 

things: adventure, suffering, love and insight into human 

nature at its best and worst. i see these same things written 

on the postcards – ultimately, they’re what make these 

wild places worth preserving. 

Chilkoot trail 


Mountain 

57


KNOW YOUR 

BACKCOUNTRY SKILLS 

GOING OUT OF BOUNDS? 

Sharpen your skills, bring the proper safety gear and always bring a partner. 

THINK RISK, THEN REWARD 

BSSAR.ORG // MTAVALANCHE.COM

man 

and 

beast 

How a grizzly bear attack in big Sky reflectS tHe HealtH of a SpecieS 

by emily Stifler 


Mountain 

59 

photo bY roYce gorsuch

ob olson at home with his dogs, hatch, weatherby and cameron. photo bY tYler busbY 

at 7:30 on Friday morning, bob olson was still in his 

pajamas. He’d just finished eating eggs and bacon in his cabin 

in big sky, when he heard his three king shepherds barking 

outside, making horrible screaming noises. 

“i knew the dogs were being attacked but i didn’t know by 

what,” olson said. “i knew something was totally wrong.” 

He looked out the window into his yard, which abuts ousel 

Falls Park, but trees and the outhouse blocked his view. 

olson, 53, grabbed his .300 Weatherby Magnum and ran 

outside in his flip flops. there, he saw his dogs fighting a 

350-pound grizzly bear. 

“it was attacking them, and when i ran out into the middle of 

the yard, it came at me,” he said. 


grizzly killed in big Sky 

He jacked a round into the chamber and shot the bear at five 

yards. struck in the head, it stopped charging, then spun 

around a couple of times. olson shot again, and the bear fell, 

landing right by olson’s feet. 

“i was just reacting,” he said. “i killed it because i thought it 

was going to kill me.” 

shaken, olson walked up to the dying animal. it had an 

ear tag, and had clearly been wearing a collar at some point, 

because the fur was matted around its neck. With grizzlies 

protected as an endangered species, olson knew he needed to 

report the incident immediately. He called 911. 

the sheriff responded first, then two wardens from Montana 

Fish, Wildlife and Parks, and two biologists. they took notes

REGIoN 

on the scene, identified the animal as a 6-year-old male from 

the taylor Fork area south of big sky, and then moved it into 

a truck and transported it to the FWP lab in bozeman. the 

biologists and wardens returned, trying to determine where 

and why the bear entered olson’s yard. 

“the food and stuff in that yard … it was the smell that 

potentially brought the bear in there,” FWP bear biologist 

Kevin Frey said later, referring to the bacon smell. olson said 

he doesn’t leave garbage or dog food in the yard. 

Frey denies rumors this was a problem bear relocated from 

elsewhere. “We’re the only ones that move bears, and in 20 

years we’ve maybe put two bears in taylor Fork.” 

originally from Milwaukee, olson 

has lived in big sky part time since 

1996. He’s been in the pawnshop 

business for 32 years, selling gold 

and diamonds. this wasn’t the first 

time he’s been attacked. 

in 1983, two armed robbers entered 

his business and threatened his 

life with a 25-caliber pistol. When 

olson turned to escape, he was shot 

in the arm. Having a grizzly bear 

charge him was “the same type of 

feeling,” he said. 

olson carries a concealed weapons 

permit. He and his staff train in 

self-defense, and also alongside 

Milwaukee law enforcement for 

mock holdups. When the bear was 

charging, that training kicked in. 

His dogs, 75-pound king shepherds, 

are part of his security system. also 

beloved pets, Weatherby, 7, is the 

Human-grizzly conflictS on tHe riSe 

the taylor Fork – and by extension, big sky – is “core 

habitat associated with Yellowstone national Park,” Frey 

said. 

While female grizzlies have roughly 20-square mile home 

ranges, males can utilize 90 to 300 square miles in a season. 

as part of his normal range, this one just happened to 

drift north in the spring. 

When olson killed the bear, on May 25, 2012, grizzlies 

were still protected by the endangered species act. but 

some, including Wyoming governor Matt Mead and u.s. 

interior secretary Ken salazar, say the animals have recovered 

and are calling for them to be delisted. 

one of olson’s dogs who was scratched by the grizzly, hatch, looks over the fence 

where the grizzly climbed into his yard. photo bY tYler busbY 

oldest; Cameron, the black one, is 5; 

and Hatch, with blond fur, is 4 years 

old. 


a six-foot wooden jack-rail fence 

surrounds their kennel, which backs 

up to the cabin porch. the fence rails 

Mountain 

61

REGIoN 

are about five inches apart, “so nothing can get into the 

kennel, and my dogs can’t get out,” olson says. 

there’s also a shed where the dogs eat in the kennel 

area, and where they sleep at night. He’d already let 

them out that morning, and they were hanging out on 

the porch before the bear climbed over the fence. 

the tussle with the bear left Hatch with a scratch on 

his nose, but otherwise the dogs came out all right. 

olson thought he’d feel backlash from the community, 

but in the following weeks, half a dozen big sky 

residents stopped by his place, all with kind words. 

“everyone was so supportive,” he said. “[they were] 

happy i killed that bear because it probably would 

have killed somebody at ousel Falls… this was selfdefense, 

and i’m sorry this bear had to die.” 

ultimately, the u.s. Fish and Wildlife service deemed it a 

legal self-defense killing. 

www.themintmt.com 


idaho 

ashton 

bozeman 

Yellowstone 

national park 

gallatin national forest 

montana 

wYoming 

cody 

the current occupied range for grizzly bears in the greater Yellowstone 

ecosystem is shown in red and encompasses approximately 

37,000km 2 . based on map from nps 

grizzlies are abundant south of big sky, and according to 

Frey, they also live in lower numbers to the north, on both 

sides of the gallatin river. the actual population is impossible 

to determine, but depending on the season and available 

food sources, at least 10 to 25 are present in gallatin Canyon 

proper. 

in the past 20 years, nine incidents involving grizzly bears 

have led to human contact or injury in the greater big sky/ 

gallatin Canyon area. these include a mauling on the ousel 

Falls trail in 1997; an attack near the Deer Creek trailhead 

in 2010; and four hunting-related incidents. 

overall, the number of grizzly-human conflicts in the 

greater Yellowstone ecosystem is on the rise, said Yellowstone 

national Park bear biologist Kerry gunther. 2012 was 

relatively quiet compared to the four years prior. 

“it’s like the stock market,” gunther said. “there are peaks 

and valleys, but the general trend is slightly upward.” this, 

he explained, is because bears are expanding into areas they 

haven’t been for more than 100 years. People at the leading 

edge of this expansion generally aren’t accustomed to living 

with bears. 

in 2011, 229 conflicts were reported in the greater Yellowstone. 

of those, 15 people were injured by grizzly bears 

in 14 incidents. these included the first two deaths in 

Yellowstone national Park in 25 years.

REGIoN 

in the year 1800, an estimated 50,000 

grizzly bears lived in the lower 48. 

a late 19th century u.s. government 

predator extermination program, 

combined with the ensuing century 

of human expansion, sent that 

population into a nosedive. a public 

grizzly bear hunting season in the 

Yellowstone ecosystem compounded 

things, and by the time they acquired 

federal protection in 1975, there were 

fewer than 300. 

“they were hit hard from a lot of 

directions,” said biologist steve 

gehman, co-founder of Wild things 

unlimited in bozeman, a nonprofit 

dedicated to improving wildlife and 

habitat management in the rocky 

Mountains. 

the closure of the dumps in Yellowstone 

Park and its gateway communities 

between 1968 and 1979 severely 

impacted bear numbers. Conditioned 

to eating human foods and garbage, 

the animals spread out in search of 

other food sources, causing conflict 

and property damage. Many were 

killed by government agencies and 

property owners. 

“it took 25 to 30 years for [the population] 

to recover to the point where 

all suitable grizzly bear habitat in the 

park was again occupied by grizzlies,” 

gehman said. 

gehman has been studying grizzly 

bears since the mid-1980s, particularly 

the animals’ movement northward 

from Yellowstone into the gallatin 

range. around the year 2000, he 

says, they began moving into areas of 

former habitat like the Wind river 

range, the shoshone national Forest, 

and the gallatin and Madison ranges. 

“bears are good at finding food and 

available habitat,” he said. “it seems 

a SpecieS recovered? 

to start with young males that are curious 

and looking for a place to live.” 

in the entire 19 million-acre greater 

Yellowstone ecosystem, biologists 

estimate the grizzly population is 

around 600; however, Frey says 

ongoing research may find that 

number is actually higher. in the 

larger region – the greater Yellowstone, 

combined with the northern 

Continental Divide, glacier national 

Park, plus scattered areas in idaho and 

northwest Montana – there may be 

upwards of 1,500. 

these are “pretty good levels,” 

gehman said. “but if you look at 

population biology genetics and what 

it takes to have a genetically viable 

population in the long term – which 

to me is the definition of recovery – 

we need probably around 2,000 in 

the Montana-idaho-Wyoming area, 

and that population needs to be connected.” 

gehman and other biologists promote 

the idea of wildlife corridors 

– areas of interconnected habitat that 

allow isolated populations to make 

contact, increasing genetic diversity 

in the region. 

“it’s not so much that bears are 

walking back and forth, or that one 

individual bear is going to make that 

trip,” gehman said. “it’s more a stepping 

stone approach – young bears 

make their way along that line, then 

a female makes her way, then her 

offspring go that way, and eventually 

an animal from one ecosystem enters 

another ecosystem.” 

Full recovery, he says, would include 

the 4 million-acre salmon-selway 

ecosystem in central idaho, a place 

that currently has no grizzlies but 

could likely support hundreds. 

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FEaTuRE 

living witH bearS 

surrounded by public land, Yellowstone and 

glacier are some of the last large expanses 

of grizzly bear habitat in the lower 48. if you 

live nearby, it’s relatively normal to see a bear 

walk through your yard. 

“[people] have to realize one day it’s a black 

bear, and the next it could be a grizzly,” said 

bear biologist kevin frey. 

the big sky natural resources council is 

working on a bear aware initiative to encourage 

responsible cohabitation. 

efforts have included starting a bear hazard 

assessment of the big sky area, done by the 

wildlife conservation society, and creating a 

bear aware committee. the committee will 

help with the assessment, collaborating this 


winter to find solutions for the related issues, 

said bsnrc board member kevin germain. 

“we need to find out what holes exist and 

how we can fill those, what policies are out 

there on the books, and what recommended 

changes we have for the policy makers,” germain 

said. suggestions include implementing 

bear-resistant trashcans and centralized 

garbage collection points. 

the bear aware initiative is based on programming 

from the get bear smart society, a 

canadian group that helps people and bears 

“safely and respectfully coexist in places 

where their homes and home ranges overlap.” 

based on education, policy and management, 

its programming has been effective in mountain 

towns from whistler to tahoe. 

photo bY mike coil

REGIoN 

in March 2007, the u.s. Fish and 

Wildlife service removed Yellowstone 

grizzly bears from the 

endangered species list. 

environmental groups led by 

the greater Yellowstone Coalition 

filed suit in federal district 

court, alleging the delisting plan 

failed to address issues like the 

possible effects of climate change 

on whitebark pine, a primary 

food source 

for grizzlies. 

in september 

2009, the 

district court 

reversed the 

delisting. 

the case went 

next to the 9th 

Circuit Court 

of appeals, which in november 

2011 upheld the district court’s 

ruling. today the Yellowstone 

grizzly is again listed as “threatened,” 

and its natural food 

sources are being studied. 

Yellowstone grizzlies have long 

used whitebark pine seeds as a 

food source in the fall, before 

hibernation. During years with 

poor cone production, bears 

switch to other foods including 

ungulate meat, truffles and 

roots. 

Mountain pine beetle outbreaks 

and invasive blister rust have 

devastated a portion of the 

whitebark stands throughout the 

greater Yellowstone in the past 

decade. Despite this, gunther 

says there still appears to be 

ample whitebark pine seeds, 

pointing toward high cone production 

in 2012. 

endangered SpecieS act 

“[this] resulted in grizzly bears 

feeding heavily on whitebark, 

which resulted in very few 

grizzly-human conflicts in the 

greater Yellowstone ecosystem 

this year.” 

Yellowstone cutthroat trout were 

also once a staple for grizzlies. 

those, too, have seen a decline, 

and bears that previously fished 

for cutthroat have switched to 

preying on 

“tHere iS a lot of preSSure 

coming from StateS. 

wyoming, idaHo and montana 

are all very deSirouS of 

bearS getting deliSted 

becauSe tHey want control.” 

elk calves during 

the spring, 

gunther said. 

Louisa 

Willcox is 

a wildlife 

advocate with 

the natural 

resources 

Defense Council in Livingston. she 

fought the 2007 proposal and says 

there will likely be another delisting 

discussion soon, once the u.s. Fish 

and Wildlife service in cooperation 

with other federal and state agencies 

has addressed the court’s questions. 

“there is a lot of pressure coming 

from states,” Willcox said. “Wyoming, 

idaho and Montana are all 

very desirous of bears getting delisted 

because they want control.” 

she agrees removal from the endangered 

species list is the ultimate 

goal, but says it’s not the time to take 

chances. 

“now is the time to be looking at alternative 

bear foods. What are bears 

eating now? Where are those foods 

in relationship to where people are? 

How secure is that habitat? … [How 

could] climate change affect secondary 

and tertiary foods?” 

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REGIoN 

grizzly bear management is more a social issue than a biological 

one. 

While public support for bears in the greater Yellowstone area 

is widespread, some believe it’s time to crack down on growth. 

ask olson: 

“these things are everywhere. they’re not fearful of man, 

nobody hunts them … now humans and the bear population 

are clashing. We’ve expanded, they’ve expanded. that’s why 

we’re having these issues.” 

olson’s friend Jerry andres has owned andres taxidermy in 

belgrade for 27 years, and he can remember the last hunting 

season for grizzly bears. andres says it wasn’t a mistake to 

bring the population back, but it’s now at a tipping point. 

“Hunters tell me they’re bumping into bears more and more 

every year. everybody thinks there should be a [hunting] season... 

the population is probably as high as it can get without 

spilling into residential areas.” 

a hunting season would impact the population, gehman said, 

especially where bears are trying to move into new habitats or 

expand their range. He’s wary of two things: “Direct killing of 

bears preventing movements between ecosystems, and degra- 

management: a balancing act 

a grizzly running across a snowy field in Yellowstone. photo bY tYler busbY 


dation of habitat because of tighter restrictions being removed 

in certain areas.” 

For wildlife officials managing bear populations, walking this 

line is critical. 

tim bennett is the northern rockies bear Program Director 

for Keystone Conservation, a bozeman-based nonprofit that 

seeks practical solutions for wildlife conservation. 

bennett says the future of grizzly bear management isn’t bolstering 

populations or protecting habitat. “that’s the past. the 

future is reducing their opportunity to come into conflict with 

humans and increasing human acceptance of having grizzly 

bears occupying the same habitat.” 

olson says it’s a balancing act. 

“We need to protect them, but at the same time we need to 

protect ourselves… How do man and beast live together without 

putting people in jeopardy, and without putting bears in 

jeopardy? We need to get along.” 

Emily Stifler is Managing Editor of Mountain outlaw.

REGIoN 

TRavElING IN BEaR CouNTRy 

using bear spraY 

when in bear country, travel with a partner 

and pay attention for fresh bear sign like 

tracks, scat and natural foods. carry bear 

spray where it’s immediately accessible. an 

average bear can run 35 miles an hour, so in 

your backpack won’t do. 

if you encounter a bear, don’t run. stay calm 

and assess the situation. is the bear aware 

of you? is it threatening or fleeing? keep the 

animal in sight as you back away, but don’t 

make eye contact. 

only use bear spray if a bear is aggressively 

confronting you. if it’s approaching you and is 

30 to 60 feet away, direct the spray downward 

toward the front of the bear, with a slight 

side-to-side motion. 

“what you’re trying to is build a wall between 

you and the bear,” said dave parker, a representative 

from counter assault, a bear spray 

manufacturer in kalispell, montana. 

if the bear is within 30 feet, spray continuously 

at the front of the bear until it breaks its 

charge. spray additional bursts if it continues 

toward you. 

no deterrent is 100 percent effective, but 

compared to all others, including firearms, 

bear spray is the most successful at fending 

off threatening and attacking bears. 

most cans last four years. they should be 

replaced if beyond their expiration date. 

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a legacy oF 

conservation 

saVing the last pristine habitat of Yellowstone cutthroat 

Congress CreateD YeLLoWstone 

nationaL ParK in 1872, 

Writing tHe First CHaPter 

in one oF our nation’s 

ProuDest narratiVes. 

Widely considered the world’s first national 

park, Yellowstone began a legacy of 

conservation that continues to be written 

to this day. 

biologists in the park are currently drafting 

another part of the story: preserving 

the native Yellowstone cutthroat trout 

and the integrity of the greater Yellowstone 

ecosystem. 


national park service technicians remove fish from gill nets on the freedom. 

bY tYler allen | photos bY Jake campos 

it’s unclear when or how the non-native lake trout made it to Yellowstone Lake. 

the u.s. Fish Commission in the 1890s intentionally brought them to two 

other lakes in the park, Lewis and shoshone, as a sport-fishing resource. 

Whether they were intentionally released into Yellowstone Lake from that 

population will never be known, but one thing is clear: since the first lake trout 

was documented there in 1994, the historic cutthroat population of 4 million 

has seen significant decline, and is now about 400,000. 

the larger, longer-lived lake trout evolved as a predator in the great Lakes of 

the Midwest; in Yellowstone Lake, they feed on cutthroats at a rate of 40-50 per 

year, according to todd Koel, supervisory Fisheries biologist for the park. 

Yellowstone cutthroat trout are a keystone species in the park, with more than 

40 species depending on them as a food source. their decline has implications 

for the entire greater Yellowstone ecosystem. 

because the cutthroat live in the upper 40 feet of the lake, they’re a food source 

for birds like white pelicans, bald eagle and osprey. otters, grizzly bears and 

bald eagles feed on the cutthroat during their spring spawning run in the Yellowstone 

river and tributaries. 

the lake trout, however, are mostly unavailable to these species, because they 

inhabit deeper water and spawn in the lake. starting with their discovery in 

1994, park biologists have been developing a program to suppress, and if possible, 

eradicate the lake trout.

environment 

“Fish are not necessarily a charismatic species...to 

anglers they are, but not the general public,” said park 

superintendent Dan Wenk. “[However] this is the most 

important restoration work in the park.” 

using live trap nets and gill nets, the national Park 

service, with help from commercial fishing boats, caught 

and killed more than 300,000 lake trout in 2012. and 

the cutthroats are responding. 

“We’re seeing way more cutthroats this year,” nPs Fisheries 

biologist Patricia bigelow said in late september. 

the cutthroats they’re catching were typically larger 

in 2012 than 2011, according to size distribution data 

collected. 

“it’s a very simple system,” bigelow said. “if we can fish 

them out of the great Lakes, fish [other species] out of 

the oceans, we can do it here.” 

that’s good news for the more charismatic species that 

depend on the cutthroats, and ultimately, for the millions 

of visitors who come to see them. 

fisheries biologist patricia bigelow has worked on the lake 

trout suppression in Yellowstone since 2001. 

“THIs Is THE MosT 

IMpoRTaNT REsToRaTIoN 

WoRk IN THE paRk.” 

-dan Wenk, yelloWStone park Superintendent 

a historY of conserVation 

The Act of Dedication, signed by President ulysses s. grant on 

March 1, 1872, explicitly created Yellowstone national Park 

“for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.” 

those famous words were taken from a letter by Ferdinand V. 

Hayden, an american geologist and leader of the Hayden expeditions 

in 1860 and 1871. His team of explorers, photographers 

and painters documented the landscape and geologic features in 

the Yellowstone region. this imagery, including striking largeformat 

photographs by William Henry Jackson and paintings 

by thomas Moran, helped convince Congress to withdraw the 

land from public auction and entrust it to subsequent generations 

of americans. 

a “supervolcano” created the landscape in and around the 

park. Known as the Yellowstone Caldera, it created the largest 

concentration of geothermal features in the world. the 

national park is also the cornerstone of the greater Yellowstone 

ecosystem, a 20 million-acre expanse of land that includes 

grand teton national Park, as well as adjoining national forests 

and wilderness areas. 

unique to the natural world, this corner of the planet evokes 

emotion from both visitors and residents of the ecosystem– 

which may be the only reason it still exists intact. 

Many of the 4 million annual visitors to Yellowstone come 

to view some of the last remaining grizzly bears, bison and 

wolves in the contiguous united states. others travel to the 

park for the cutthroats themselves. 

al Johnson grew up in gallatin gateway, Montana, and spent 

weekends with his family, fishing Yellowstone Lake and the 

river below it. a retired bank executive now living in nearby 

big sky, he remembers the family routine “of stopping on 

Fishing bridge and watching the cutthroats spawn in June.” 

Johnson learned of the declining cutthroat population 15 years 

ago and has experienced it first-hand since. Prior to moving 

back to Montana from the Midwest, he made yearly visits to 

the park. He catches fewer cutthroats in the Yellowstone river 

each year, he says. 

“i would like to bring my grandkids to the park to have the 

same experience i had as a kid.” 


Mountain 

69

nps technician Jay fleming holds an adult lake trout in september 2012. from annapolis, maryland, this was his second year working on Yellowstone lake. 


environment 

remoVing the inVader 

When the ice in Yellowstone Lake 

melts in late May or early June, the 

park begins its lake trout fishing 

season in earnest. the work continues 

until the autumn snows and 

cold temperatures shut them down. 

Park biologists catch, tag and release 

select lake trout, and then use 

radio telemetry to target populations. 

the park service operates a boat 

called Freedom; Hickey brothers 

research, based in sturgeon bay, 

Wisconsin, operates two others and 

plans to bring a third for summer 

2013. the Northwester manages the 

gill nets, while the Kokanee sets 

and pulls the trap nets. 

Like a giant funnel, the trap has large netting wings 

extending from its mouth. the smaller cutthroats and 

juvenile lake trout pass through the nets, while the 

larger ones are blocked and must swim the length of the 

net, attempting to get around it. eventually, they find an 

opening they swim into but can’t escape. 

the kokanee was one of two boats operated by 

hickey brothers research on the lake in 2012. 

a few days later, skilled fishermen use winches to pull the 

traps. nearly all the fish they pull in are alive – the cutthroat 

are released back into the lake, and the lake trout have their 

air sacs cut open, so they’ll sink when thrown overboard. 

the gill net locations are set in shallower water, where 

they’re laid in a precise serpentine course to confuse the fish 

and prevent them from swimming around the nets. When 

a fish swims directly into the nets, its gills are caught, and it 

cannot wriggle free. 


J E F F HELMS 

Representing Buyers & Sellers 

in Yellowsone Club, Moonlight Basin, Club at Spanish Peaks & Big Sky 

Mountain 

71

september colors on Yellowstone lake in 2012 

feature 

a model of success? 

Lake trout were intentionally 

introduced to Lake Pend oreille in 

northern idaho in 1925, a result of 

the same fisheries management that 

brought them to Yellowstone. 

“it was a time in our history when 

folks didn’t understand the consequences 

[of introducing exotic 

species],” said andy Dux, Principal 

Fisheries research biologist with the 

idaho Department of Fish and game, 

which has run a similar lake trout 

suppression program there since 

2006. 

their numbers in Lake Pend oreille 

remained low until the late 1990s, 

at which point they began to outcompete 

the lake’s population of 

kokanee trout, also non-native. the 

growth was a delayed response to the 

1960s introduction of Mysis shrimp, 

brought to the lake by biologists in 

hopes of benefitting the kokanee, a 

popular sport fish and a food source 

for the native bull trout. 

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bull trout are listed federally as a 

species throughout their range in 

the northwest, but the efforts in 

Lake Pend oreille are encouraging. 

aDulT lakE TRouT HavE 

DEClINED By MoRE THaN 

80 pERCENT 

sINCE THE pRoGRaM 

Was INITIaTED IN lakE 

pEND oREIllE 

“Lake trout suppression has been 

extremely effective, thus far,” Dux 

said. adult lake trout have declined 

by more than 80 percent since the 

program was initiated, and the 

kokanee have responded favorably, 

he said, its population at its highest 

level since the fishery was closed to 

anglers in 2000. 

these results of the Lake Pend oreille 

trapping operation would seem to 

offer more than a glimmer of hope that 

Yellowstone Lake and other fisheries in 

the region can recover with intensive 

efforts. 

biologists working on Pend oreille 

have a couple more arrows in their 

quiver. 

the angler incentive Program pays 

fisherman $15 for every lake trout they 

remove. in the seven years since suppression 

began, this has accounted for 

nearly half of the 143,000 lake trout 

killed. 

they also have funding. Power companies 

that operate dams above and 

below the lake are obligated to fund 

mitigation for the negative impacts on 

the ecosystem caused by hydroelectric 

infrastructure. that amounts to about 

$1 million a year. With Lake Pend 

oreille once a world class fishery and 

idaho’s angling crown jewel, state fisheries 

managers are willing to spend the 

money it takes to regain that status. 

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earlY signs of success 

the entire Yellowstone Lake watershed 

is unfettered by the human 

consumption of hydroelectric power. 

the 692-mile Yellowstone river is 

undammed. the wild nature of the 

system is part of the allure for these 

millions who marvel at the lake’s 

beauty each year, but it means the 

hydrological system has had limited 

resources. 

until now. 

Yellowstone Park Foundation is 

the primary fundraising partner for 

Yellowstone national Park and has 

donated to the park’s native fish program 

for more than 10 years. in March 

2012, YPF cemented its commitment 

to Yellowstone cutthroat recovery 

with a donation of $1 million, and a 

fundraising goal of another $1 million 

annually through 2016, if necessary. 

already, it’s making a difference. 

Trusted 

Expertise in 

Big Sky 

“this year was the first time in more 

than a decade we’ve seen a significant 

decline in juvenile lake trout,” said 

park fish biologist todd Koel. “there 

was an increase in the total number of 

cutthroat being caught.” 

the additional funding means more nets 

in the water, more man hours and next 

year, another boat on the lake. 

“Lake trout probably won’t be completely 

eradicated [in Yellowstone 

Lake],” said Pat byorth, staff attorney 

for Montana Water Project. However, 

biologists are learning creative ways 

to help cutthroat survive even in the 

presence of these predators, he said. 

“it’s more than just putting down lake 

trout. the product of these efforts has 

greater implications.” 

Tyler Allen has been a staff writer for 

Outlaw Partners since July 2012. 

yElloWsToNE paRk FouNDaTIoN 

mission: to protect, preserve and 

enhance Yellowstone by funding 

projects beyond the financial 

capacity of the national park 

service. 

founded in 1996 by a group of 

dedicated citizens, the nonprofit 

Yellowstone park foundation has 

since raised more than 

$60 million for the park. 

in october 2012, a museum-quality exhibit called 

destination Yellowstone opened in the bozeman 

Yellowstone international airport. Ypf, partnering 

with the Yellowstone association, the nps and the 

airport, installed a mural depicting iconic Yellowstone 

wildlife, a web-based, lcd park map, a live 

webcam of old faithful, and a 55-inch interactive 

touch screen with Yellowstone facts, photos and 

information on Ypf. 

approximately 850,000 passengers came through 

the airport in 2012 – up 50,000 from the previous 

year, according to airport director brian sprenger. 

Visitors to Yellowstone make up a significant portion 

of those travelers. 

the new exhibit offers them “important information 

before they get there,” says park superintendent 

dan wenk. “when they return and want to 

get involved, with the Ypf exhibits, they can find 

out how.” 

more at ypf.org. 

Jeff Helms 

M: 406.539.0121 

E: je @sothebysrealty.com 

bigskysir.com 

All information is derived from MLS sources and deemed reliable, however, is not guaranteed. Data is subject to error, 

omissions, prior sales, price change or withdrawal without notice and approval of purchase by Seller. We urge independent 

veri cation of each and every item submitted, explorebigsky.com 

to the satisfaction of any Mountain 

prospective purchaser. 

73

EXploRE 

B A 

L I 

8 DEGREEs souTH oF 

THE EQuaToR 

bY eric ladd | photos bY brian niles and megan paulson 


Mountain 

75

EXploRE 


bali is an island of contrast. 

Denpasar, the capital, is a bustling city with traffic-choked 

streets. amed, a hidden group of villages on the island’s stunning 

eastern tip, is home to fishermen, local craftsmen and diving. 

From starbucks to fresh fish markets, seaside surf towns 

to 3,000-meter peaks, nightclubs to sacred temples, thatched 

hut resorts to the finest five-star hotels in the world – contrast 

defines this island paradise. 

a province in the country of indonesia, bali is 2,147-square 

miles, the 12th largest in the archipelago of 18,000 islands. 

ninety percent of the 3,891,000 balinese are Hindu, and the 

rest Muslim. 

Made famous for its beaches, culture and laidback vibe in the 

1970s, its popularity has grown in the last decade, drawing 

tourists for its surf, arts, night clubs and appearance in the film 

Eat, Pray, Love. 

Dubbed “island of the gods,” bali has several distinct regions. 

the southern part is considered the island’s heart, and here, a 

bustle of trendy resorts, packed beaches, entertainment, shopping 

and nightlife abounds. 

Verging on a step back in time, the eastern region is more 

low-key, lending itself to relaxing days spent exploring the 

rugged beaches, temples and mountainous terrain. Many locals 

here make their living fishing from traditional outrigger boats 

and tending to rice paddies by hand in the shadow of Mount 

agung, the island’s highest and most sacred volcano. 

although many parts of bali are nearly bursting at the seams 

with trash and scooters, and it’s had trouble evolving with 

the rapid increase in tourism, the country still holds amazing 

getaways for adventurous travelers. 

a visit there could be compared to a less refined Hawaiian 

island experience, with a rich culture that will leave even the 

most seasoned traveler in a sense of…ahh.


Mountain 

77

EXploRE 

where to staY and what to do: 

surf Camp: 

padang 

padang 

this premier boutique surf camp 

will introduce you to some of 

the finest breaks in the world – 

and also a social experiment 

worthy of reality tV. Located on 

the southern end of the island, 

this small spot is hidden in the 

jungle off a dirt road. the 

lodging is quality, and breakfast 

and lunch are served family 

style. seasoned guides teach surf 

sessions twice daily. at night, 

guests typically go out for dinner 

together in neighboring villages 

or sit around the pool in 

hammocks reliving the day’s 

adventures. bring good surf 

booties, a rash guard and a book. 

Tip: A minimum four-night stay 

is required to book, but longer is 

suggested. Request Tina as your 

instructor. 

balisurfingcamp.com 

Boutique 

luxury Resort: 

Desa seni 

an eco-friendly resort with a 

beautiful soul, Desa seni is an 

oasis in the chaos that is bali. its 

grounds are manicured down 

to the hand-trimmed blades of 

grass, and its vibrant sounds 

and colors are exactly how you 

would imagine an indonesian 

resort. Located in the western 

bali village of Canngu, it’s a 

relatively small place focused 

on yoga, meditation and organic 

foods. the vast majority of food 

served is harvested from the 

property’s gardens. in the center 

of the resort is a saltwater lap 

pool surrounded by refurbished 

historical buildings dating back 

hundreds of years. Within a day 

the staff will know you by name 

and know your favorite cocktail. 

Tip: A daily regimen of yoga in 

the outdoor studio, organic food 

and Thai Massage is just what the 

doctor ordered. 

desaseni.com 


bali: “IslaND oF THE GoDs” 

luxury Home 

stay: amed, 

soujourn -ventures 

sojourn-Ventures has quite 

possibly one of the finest homes 

in bali available for rent, Villa 

Paradiso. Located in amed, a 

fishing village on the eastern 

shore of bali, it’s owned by an 

ex-pat couple that has mastered 

the art of entertainment. staff 

can arrange meals, daily adventures, 

private poolside balinese 

dancers and shuttles to any 

island location. Making you feel 

part of the village family, they 

ensure you leave with a happy 

but pained smile (who would 

want to leave?!). the beaches are 

rocky, so get ready for spending 

time poolside. if you are a 

snorkeler or scuba diver, you’re 

in luck because it’s home to some 

of the finest in the world. 

Tip: Get the fish curry and spring 

rolls at Apa Kipar, and go play 

music with the staff at Pazzo’s. 

sojourn-ventures.com/travel 

Green Resort: 

ubud Green 

Located in the back streets of 

ubud, the artist village ubud 

green was made famous by Julia 

roberts. a medium sized resort 

with a focus on being environmentally 

friendly and low-key, 

it’s just five minutes off the 

‘strip’ of ubud. an escape with 

luxury accommodation overlooking 

rice paddies, its modern 

rooms have private pools and 

butler service. the in-house 

restaurant provides quality food 

in a dining area overlooking the 

resort and jungle from a third 

story deck. 

Tip: Have the in-house Ubud 

drivers get you to and from the 

markets. Try Lotus Café for a nice 

meal. 

ubudgreen.com

10 tips and 

suggestions for a 

trip to bali: 

1. Minimum of 14 days suggested; try to fly 

Los angeles to singapore for most direct 

option. 

2. Plan two days to go to the gili islands. avoid 

the magic mushroom shakes unless you’re 

ready to spend all night in the clubs. 

3. bring a water bottle. bali relies on bottled 

water, and the plastic pollution is substantial. 

More than 50,000 bottles of water are 

thrown away monthly. Don’t be part of the 

problem. 

4. get ready for wheeling and dealing with the 

taxis. it’s friendly but intense. 

5. Wi-fi is everywhere. 

6. bintang is the beer of choice. 

7. get a past-life reading! Yep, it’s for real: Find 

out who you were in another life. Learn more 

at baligoddessretreats.asia. 

8. go whitewater rafting. Details at 

alam-amazing-adventures.com. 

9. Don’t miss beers and sunset at the single 

Fin bar. 

10. Visit uluwatu temple (pictured) – it’s 

crowded but worth it. sarongs are required 

and available to rent for the day. 


Mountain 

79

sCIENCE 

MICRoBIoN 

CoRpoRaTIoN 

addressing global biofilm control in health, industry 

bY megan paulson 

Microbial biofilm is a highly resistant form 

of bacteria that is nearly everywhere. in fact, 

it resides in everything from toothbrushes 

to the geysers in Yellowstone national Park. 

in the last 20 years, science has shown that 

98 percent of all bacteria on earth exist as 

microbial biofilms. Making up roughly 50 

percent of the earth’s biomass, they provide 

a highly resistant protective shield for bacteria 

and fungi, facilitating their survival for 

billions of years, even in extreme environments. 

More than 80 percent of all infections are 

related to microbial biofilms, according to the 

national institutes of Health. Moreover, the 

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention 

have affirmed biofilms are highly resistant to 

frontline antibiotics, causing more than 65 

percent of hospital-acquired infections. 

Microbial biofilms also cause many industrial 

problems, including biocorrosion of oil 

pipelines, and biofouling of ship’s hulls, pulp 

and paper manufacturing, and water filtration 

systems used for desalinization and production 

of safe drinking water. 

For bozeman-based Microbion Corporation, 

advancements in the microbial biofilm 

industry have propelled the company into a 

wave of opportunity. Microbion is developing 

a platform of broad-spectrum bismuththiol 

(bt) antimicrobial compounds effective 


against nearly all antibiotic-resistant bacteria 

tested and their microbial biofilms. 

“We believe that bts may be the most potent, 

broad-spectrum antimicrobial/antibiofilm 

compounds developed to date,” says Dr. brett 

baker, Microbion Founder, President and Ceo. 

the company’s revolutionary compounds are 

showing several key advantages over current 

frontline antibiotics. this, baker notes, makes 

the bt technology unique in both health and 

industrial settings. 

globally, market trends and unmet health 

needs have shifted, emphasizing the need for 

new classes of antimicrobials that address lifethreatening, 

antibiotic-resistant infections and 

microbial biofilms. 

“antimicrobial resistance... 

is becoming more dangerous... 

urgent and consolidated efforts are 

needed to avoid regressing to the 

preantibiotic era.” -dr. margaret chan, 

director, world health organization, march 2012. 

Last year, the World Health organization 

identified antibiotic resistance as a global health 

crisis. in response, Congress in 2012 passed the 

gain (generating antibiotic incentives now) 

act with broad bipartisan support. this legislation 

provides incentives and FDa regulatory 

priority to companies developing new drugs to 

fight antibiotic resistant infections. 

80% 

NIH Has stated tHat 80% of 

INfectIoNs are related to 

mIcrobIal bIofIlms 

in october 2012, the Defense Medical research 

and Development Program awarded 

Microbion and team a $2.5 million grant, 

provided through the u.s. Department of 

Defense. 

With the funding Microbion, working with 

the university of Pennsylvania and university 

of California - san Francisco, will conduct 

Phase 2 human trials to treat post-surgical 

orthopedic infections with Microbion’s 

biseDt, an antimicrobial drug currently in 

regulatory development. scientists successfully 

completed the therapeutic drug’s Phase 

1 trials in 2011. 

“this is a critically important area for the 

global community, as almost all current 

antibiotics are losing effectiveness against 

antibiotic resistant bacterial and fungal 

infections,” Dr. baker said. 

the technology has the potential to 

improve outcomes for more than 100,000 

orthopedic implant patients suffering from 

post-operative infections in the united 

states each year. 

More at microbioncorp.com 

the bright colors in this picture are created by biofilms thriving in a very acidic hot spring pool in Yellowstone national park.

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sCIENCE 

HIGH-lEvEl sCIENCE IN BIG sky 

Yellowstone club community foundation and university of montana begin new partnership 

bY emilY stifler 

Meadow Creek is a dynamic place. a 

dozen miles south of big sky, it drains 

into the taylor Fork of the gallatin 

river. a major landslide has caused 

significant changes to the geology and 

biological life cycles there in recent 

years, including altering elk migration. 

Part of the greater Yellowstone ecosystem, 

Meadow Creek is also home to 

wolves, grizzly bears and native fish. 

supported in part by the Yellowstone 

Club Community Foundation, rick 

graetz, a university of Montana 

geography professor, has studied this 

micro-ecosystem and others nearby for 

the past two years. the big sky area 

and the upper gallatin are an integral 

part of the greater Yellowstone ecosystem, 

graetz said. 

graetz first visited big sky as a high 

schooler in the 1960s, then did a stint 

as a professional ski patroller in the 

resort’s early days, and is now a parttime 

resident. a uM professor since 

2003, he has published many books 

on Yellowstone and other parts of the 

world. 

“He’s so impassioned by it,” said 

YCCF executive director Casey 


schwartz. “Yellowstone national Park 

is in his bloodlines.” 

graetz is leading a larger collaboration 

in big sky as well, bringing university 

of Montana programming to Yellowstone 

Club’s outdoor Pursuits 

program, Lone Peak High school, and 

a community lecture series. 

building on his research in the area, 

graetz is planning to work with students 

in the high school’s expeditions 

program. the idea, says LPHs science 

and math teacher Paul swenson, is to 

do long range studies on plant succession, 

geomorphology and changing 

habitat. swenson and environmental 

studies teacher nancy sheil are leading 

the project for the school. 

“For the kids in kindergarten now, 

by the time in they’re in high school, 

they’ll have seven or eight years of 

research from previous classes they 

can build on,” swenson said, explaining 

that students could still be working 

on it 20 years from now. 

the school’s interdisciplinary approach 

uses the project to combine 

science, english, social studies, 

math and art. Kids are writing down 

observations, shooting photos to be 

used in long-term studies, doing field 

sketches, and comparing the unstable 

geology to that of nearby big sky. 

graetz described LPHs as “forward 

thinking,” and the Yellowstone 

Club as “progressive,” explaining 

it’s uncommon for a private club to 

have a working relationship with a 

university. 

For the Yellowstone Club, this partnership 

is about being good neighbors. 

“[that’s] an essential part of 

who we are at the Yellowstone Club 

Community Foundation,” said board 

president sam byrne, also the club’s 

principal owner. 

“We want to support the university 

to have a bigger footprint in our community,” 

schwartz said. “that’s our 

long term goal.” 

For this winter, that means public lectures, 

and also partnering with other 

regional organizations like the Yellowstone 

Park Foundation and the 

big sky Community Corporation. 

“How many kids take science 

[class] in Yellowstone national 

Park?” schwartz asks. “We take it 

for granted, but it’s an exceptional 

experience.” 

lpHs students on the Meadow Creek bridge. pHoTo By paul sWENsoN

“Bandits” 

Ezra Tucker 

Acrylic on Canvas 40 x 30 

(Partial Image) 

Picture 

life 

here 

Representing distinguished properties and 

buyers in Big Sky, backed by an international 

network of sales & marketing professionals. 

406-993-9400 

CREIGHTONBLOCKGALLERY.COM 

BIG SKY TOWN CENTER 

11:00 AM - 7:00 PM // TUESDAY THRU SUNDAY 

MONDAYS BY APPOINTMENT 

Please visit the gallery to view our extensive collection of fine 

works of art in the Main Gallery, the Charsam Room, and the new 

Private Collection Salon. 

TALLIE JAMISON 

Associate 

406.600.8081 

reallyBIGsky.com

gary Lynn roberts, A Crisp Morning, 30” x 40” 

gary lynn 

roberts 


by ryan dorn 

the first thing you notice about gary Lynn roberts is his slow, texas 

drawl, which stands out a bit in Montana. next, you see his devotion 

to god and love for his family. 

“What defines me is my faith,” he says. “My family is my strength. 

they are the reason i paint.” 

a classical oil painter, gary Lynn’s pieces are primarily set in the 1870s 

and 1880s, and most depict vibrant scenes of cowboys or american 

indians living in the historic West. His style ranges between impressionism 

and realism, leaning more toward impressionism, he says. 

gary Lynn, 60, moved his family to Montana from his native texas in 

2008. 

after a show at the C.M. russell Museum in great Falls, he and his 

wife nancy vacationed in the bitterroot Valley. 

“i kind of trapped my wife,” he recalls. “i fell in love with it up here 

but couldn’t get her to move. she came to Hamilton and said, ‘now if i 

could live here, i’d move.’ so, i jumped all over it.” 

Within 24 hours he’d rented a house and a studio. they had two weeks 

to move from austin and enroll their daughters in school in Hamilton.

gallery 

For the roberts, paintings are a family affair. nancy helps 

with historic research, and daughters Mary, 15, and anna, 

12, help frame his finished work. the older children have 

long been out of the house, but they too have helped, with 

Joe building frames and Jeannie working at the Legacy gallery 

in Jackson, Wyoming where 

their father’s work is sold. 

gary Lynn’s father Joe rader 

roberts was also an accomplished 

artist and commercial 

painter. in the days before fine 

art galleries were popular, he 

provided for his family by painting 

signs for businesses in their 

small hometown outside of 

Houston, texas. gary Lynn followed suit, and each week 

his mother drove him to grocery stores to paint the newest 

specials on their windows. 

“i think i got $8, and i would do 20 of them,” he says, 

laughing. “i made a lot of money as a 14-year-old. You’d 

make $1 mowing a lawn, so i made a whole lot more than 

my friends.” 

in the late 1950s and early 1960s, the elder roberts moved 

his family to austin where a thriving art scene was emerging. 

there, he was finally 

able to support himself 

entirely with fine art 

painting. 

gary Lynn also phased 

out of the sign business, 

and by age 22 he was 

focusing entirely on his 

own paintings. Despite 

similar paths, Joe roberts 

never pressured his 

son to be a painter. 

“He had a philosophy 

that i share with him 

to this day,” gary Lynn 

said. “if someone wants 

to be an artist, you can’t 

stop him… the ones that 

are successful have it in 

their blood.” 

“[People] experience gary Lynn’s 

work emotionally. it grabs a viewer 

and creates the illusion that the 

viewer is in the scene, standing 

just behind the point that the 

artist painted from.” 

gary Lynn roberts, Aspen Grove, 24” x 36” 

in nearly 50 years of painting, gary Lynn has had success 

in both art sales and awards. 

in 2009, he won both the C.M. russell art auction 

People’s Choice award and the Honorary Chairman 

award for his painting, After the 

Shower. this painting depicts three 


cowboys riding down a dark and 

muddy street with packhorses in 

tow, clouds breaking on a mountain 

above them. 

More recently, gary Lynn won 

the 2012 best of show at the John 

Clymer Museum auction for his 

painting Colors of Fall. 

His paintings transport viewers to the place and time 

depicted in the work, says Colin Mathews, owner of 

Creighton block gallery in big sky, who represents 

gary Lynn. 

“[People] experience gary Lynn’s work emotionally,” 

Mathews said. “it grabs a viewer and creates the illusion 

that the viewer is in the scene, standing just behind the 

point that the artist painted from.” 

Mountain 

85

gallery 

“i’ve been blessed with an imagination i think comes from 

god,” gary Lynn says. “i don’t necessarily need to see it 

to paint it. growing up, i thought i was raised in the West 

since [i lived in] Houston. i didn’t know any different. i had 

horses, and i did rodeo. that was most natural for me.” 

today, gary Lynn prefers painting the american West of 

the 1870s and 1880s, because he’s drawn to the spirit of the 

frontier. 

“it was an industrialist age… if you had the courage, you 

could go west and make your fortune. that spirit has always 

interested me.” 

Many of his paintings combine “extraordinary depth of 

background, with a powerful sense of motion coming 

toward the viewer in the foreground,” Mathews says. “His 

mastery of the color wheel enables him to achieve subtle 

spatial effects through careful juxtapositions of color.” 

gary Lynn roberts, No place to forge, 28” x 40” 


gary Lynn’s studio is a nondescript building on Highway 

93 in Hamilton. inside, the furniture is sparse and the 

decorations few. the walls are filled with history books and 

paintings. a work of his father’s hangs in his office. He says 

he wishes he had more. 

because gary Lynn paints wet on dry, the first layer must 

sit for three days before more paint can be applied. six 

paintings in different stages sit along a shelf. a colorful 

woven indian blanket, a beat-up saddle and a holster with 

a gun are a few of the historical items piled into a corner for 

reference. although he enjoys history and tries to be as accurate 

as possible, gary Lynn won’t label himself a historical 

painter. 

Living in Montana, he is inspired by the landscape around 

him, according to his family. 

Continued on p. 89


Mountain 

87

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This information is subject to errors, omissions, prior sale, change, withdrawal and approval of purchase by owner. All information from sources deemed reliable, but not guaranteed by 

Montana Living - Big Sky Real Estate, independent investigation is recommended. For properties being purchased at The Club at Spanish Peaks approval for membership is required prior 

to closing. If you are currently working with another real estate agent, this is not intended as a solicitation.

gary Lynn roberts, Honoring Nature 

“it was an industrialist age… if you 

had the courage, you could go west 

and make your fortune. that spirit has 

always interested me.” 


“sometimes, we’ll be driving down the road, and 

he’ll be very quiet,” nancy says. “then he’ll say, 

‘believe it or not, i’m working right now.’” 

“and even [sketching] at church,” his daughter 

Mary says. 

“You didn’t need to add that,” gary Lynn says, 

laughing. “We could have left that alone.” 

gary Lynn roberts is still busy. He stays behind 

the easel as much as possible, working six days 

a week, from the time he drops Mary and anna 

off at school until the family gathers for dinner. 

He finishes more than 30 paintings a year and 

receives requests from galleries all over the West. 

Despite a painting career spanning five decades, 

gary Lynn has no plans to slow down. “For me it’s 

not work, it’s a labor of love.” 


Mountain 

89 

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dining 

a perfectly grilled flank steak with seasonal greens 

is a staple on the Mint’s menu. photo by Max loWe 

steaks, chops and more 

from big skY countrY 

open 

RaNGE 

bY maX lowe 

if you’ve ever been to the Mint bar and Café in 

belgrade, you know it has a unique and eclectic ambiance. 

the décor is like an old Montana ranch home, 

adorned with fine woodwork. the classic, mirrorbacked 

bar is complete with humble and welcoming 

bartenders. the photographs on the walls depict the 

regular and faithful clientele that have dined at the 

restaurant since its doors opened. 

the food is classic and artistically prepared by head 

chef Katie Hagmeier. the menu features grass-fed 

Montana beef and bison, locally grown vegetables 

and flavors that have been tried and perfected by 

owner Jay bentley. 

bentley’s latest venture is Open Range, a cookbook 

written together with his friend Patrick Dillon 

that hit shelves in october 2012. themed “steaks, 

chops and more from big sky Country,” it features 

bentley’s original recipes, some of which are Mint 

standards; others come from across the country, 

from his journey through life. 

l: one of the Mint’s regular and faithful clientele who’s been on the wall since its doors opened. center: Jay bentley keeping things good natured and 

friendly at the Mint. photoS by Max loWe r: Soup and local beer photo courteSy oF Jay bentley

inspired by a love for delicious food, bentley began cooking at age 18. 

“i would go into the fridge at home and just pick out ingredients i 

thought would go well together,” Jay recalled. “sometimes they would 

turn into something awesome… it was always a learning experience.” 

bentley came to Montana from new orleans – where he was working 

as a realtor – in the late ‘80s when he got a job developing affordable 

houses for low and middleincome 

families in Helena. 

after several days of fly 

fishing on the Missouri 

river, he knew he was here 

to stay. 

ask what attracted him to 

Montana, and bentley will 

take you outside and say, 

“Look around, there is a 

reason they call it the last 

best place.” 

Open Range’s recipes are simple and straightforward. He believes that 

like classic music, many great food ideas of the past have a life of their 

own and should be given their due in today’s modern repertoire. 

“My core menus have always tried to reflect the best of the tried and 

true, while the daily specials offer the chance to be innovative and creative,” 

bentley says. “i hate pretension and the kinds of menus where 

every minute ingredient is touted as tonight’s special. that usually 

reinforces my belief that fusion is an excuse for many chefs with poor 

or no taste to pile on a whole lot of exotic ingredients [just] for the sake 

of [it].” 

Open Range is not just a cookbook. it’s also a cultural history of Montana 

and all the things that connect us to it. the recipes and stories let 

readers imagine they’re sitting around a campfire on a brisk night with 

friends, sipping bourbon out of a tin cup, or smelling fresh caught 

trout frying on a skillet over open flame. 

“i live in a beautiful place, and i have never regretted leaving the cities behind,” 

bentley says. “Here, i get to do all the things i deem important. Fly 

fishing in mountain streams for wild native trout; skiing that first powder 

up at big sky; sitting around a campfire with friends by the banks of the 

Madison river. it doesn’t get any better than this.” 

open range will be available at The Mint, the Country Bookshelf, and at 

any Barnes and Noble. 

photo by lynne donaldSon 


JaY bentleY’s 

dutch oVen bison 

4 lbs. bison meat, cut into 1 ½ “ cubes 

1 c olive oil 

1/3 c flour 

2 c beef stock or water, plus 2 t beef stock 

1 c dark beer – porter or stout 

2 – 3 medium carrots, cut in 1” pieces 

2 large onions, diced coarsely 

4 baking potatoes, cut into 1-½“ pieces 

3 bay leaves 

3 t granulated garlic 

3 t thyme 

1 t allspice 

1 small can tomato paste 

½ c chopped fresh parsley (optional) 

Salt and pepper to taste 

in a hot dutch oven, pot or braising pan, 

add the oil, sear the bison and set aside. 

add the onions and, when they turn 

transparent, add the flour. Stir in well. 

When the flour has browned a bit, add 

the seared meat. pour in all the liquids, 

stirring the cooked meat, flour and onions 

so they don’t stick to the bottom of 

the pot. add the thyme, bay leaves and 

garlic and cook over low heat for three 

hours. When the meat is tender, add the 

potatoes and carrots and cook until they 

are done but not mushy. adjust the salt 

and pepper and serve. the gravy should 

be fairly thick. if it’s too thick, thin with 

water or beef stock. 

Serve in warm bowls with a bit of fresh 

chopped parsley for color and plenty of 

crusty bread, and a stout zinfandel. 

Mountain 

91

dining 


Special advertising section 

Rustic Elegance 

at rainbow ranch 

photo bY chris daVis 

a CouPLe sits on tHe LeatHer CouCH 

bY tHe FirePLaCe at rainboW ranCH 

LoDge, drinking cocktails. Jazz plays in the background, 

and flames lick the hardwood logs. 

“that was the best snow of the year,” alexis says. “When 

you went right to obsidian, i cut under Lone tree to the left 

side of the face. it was blown in with fresh snow all the way.” 

she sips a stoli Doli, the pineapple-infused vodka that’s a 

house specialty. 

“obsidian was pretty good, too,” Charles says, and takes a 

bite of the Wagyu Carpaccio. “it’s still snowing,” he says and 

smiles. 

up for the weekend from bozeman, they’re celebrating their 

10th wedding anniversary at rainbow ranch - perhaps the 

most romantic resort in the area. they skied all day at Moonlight 

basin, just up the road, and rolled down to the lodge 

when the lifts stopped turning.

upon arrival, they had fresh-baked cookies in their room; delicious, 

they’re made by the ranch’s pastry chef Liz Michaels, 

formerly a pastry designer for ritz Carlton. rose petals were 

strewn across the bed – a surprise touch Charles requested. 

intimate details like these set rainbow ranch Lodge apart. its 

extensive wine list, fine cuisine, serene riverside setting and professional 

but relaxed staff make it a hidden gem, both for locals and 

those traveling from afar. 

the bartender stops by and brings Charles a twin Cabin. named 

for the trailhead just across the gallatin river from the lodge, it’s 

Makers Mark infused with pear, house-made ginger soda, served 

on the rocks with a brandied cherry – nearly as good as skiing 

powder. 

at dinner, alexis orders the trout, and Charles gets the bison. 

their server, whose cheeks are pink from snowboarding all day, 

pairs their meals with Champalou Vouvray, a Chenin blanc from 

France’s Loire Valley, and Ladera Cabernet. He knows the offerings 

– he’s been trained well and has tried everything on the menu. 


photo courtesY of saerack design 


Mountain 

93

Construction 

Andesite Construction 

Biggerstaff Construction 

Blue Ribbon Builders, Inc. 

Gallatin Associates 

Green Construction 

Haas Builders 

Highline Partners 

Lone Pine Builders 

Sierra Pacifi c Windows 

Wade & Associates Builders 

health/fitness 

Big Sky Health & Fitness 

Bozeman Deaconess Pharmacy 

Gallatin Family Medicine 

Ozssage, Ltd 

Lone Peak Physical Therapy 

The Studio 

MSU Human Development Clinic 

restaurants/groceries 

Country Market 

First Place Pub 

Lone Peak Brewery 

Olive B’s 

Retail 

Big Sky Furniture 

Horse of a Different Color 

Made in Big Sky 

Willow Boutique 

nonprofits 

Arts Council of Big Sky 

Big Sky Noxious Weed 

Big Sky Ski Team 

Blue Water Task Force 

Jack Creek Preserve Foundation 

Open 7 days a week, 6:30am to 8pm 

Extended hours 6:30am to 10pm December 15-April 15 

and July 1- Labor Day 


Services 

The Agency Insurance 

American Land Title Co. 

Big Sky Owners Association 

Big Sky Post Offi ce 

Big Sky Water & Sewer 

Black Tie Ski Rentals 

First Security Bank 

First West Insurance 

Hammond Property Management 

Knaub & Co. CPA 

Lindell & Associates, PC 

Lone Peak Lookout 

Stifel Nicholaus 

Wells Fargo Private Mortgage 

real estate 

ERA Landmark 

Sotheby’s Big Sky 

Big Sky Properties 

BIG SKY’S FULL SERVICE GROCERY STORE 

Hand-cut meats • Fresh baked goods • Gourmet items • Beer & wine 

LOCAL 

FRESH 

Delivery available - have your rental unit 

stocked upon your arrival! 406-995-4636 

Located in the Meadow Village 

Center next to Lone Peak Brewery

Just steps from the gallatin river, rainbow ranch is open year round 


rainbow has a history of hospitality. the Lemon family homesteaded 

the land as a cattle ranch in 1919, but realizing it wasn’t ideal 

for livestock, they began renting cabins and making meals for folks 

headed from bozeman to West Yellowstone, calling it the Half Way 

inn. renamed rainbow ranch in 1935, the property gained a reputation 

for fine food, wine and service in the early ‘90s, something 

current owner scott gibson continues to build upon today. 

the lodge and grounds are elegant, yet with a relaxed Montana sensibility. 

to boot: Chef ian troxler sources many of the restaurant’s 

menu items from local farms including trout Culture, gallatin Valley 

botanicals, amaltheia organic Dairy, Montana Wagyu Company, 

Lava Lake Lamb and Yellowstone grass Fed beef. 

Charles and alexis finish off the night with glasses of Moët & Chan- 

don champagne and a made-from-scratch crème brûlée to share. 

Cheers! 

Rainbow Ranch Lodge offers packages ranging from outdoor 

adventures and romantic getaways or elopement celebrations to 

larger weddings and gatherings, as well as corporate retreats and 

meetings. Find the most current menu offerings, specials and details 

at rainbowranchbigsky.com. 


Mountain 

95 

wear the 

“g ood stuff ” 

every day. 

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Unique, handmade jewelry 

Extensive selection of South Sea & Tahitian pearls 

Exotic stones, raw diamonds, fine silver 

and 18-22 karat gold 

BIG SKY, MT | PACIFIC PALISADES, CA 

Private appointments and trunk shows available. 

shellybermont.com

pRoFIlE 

the art and passion of 

Frances ackerMan 

Moonlight Basin 

WHen FranCes aCKerMan First 

CLiCKeD into a Pair oF sKis at age 

40, she never envisioned becoming a ski 

instructor. 

growing up in Virginia in a nonathletic 

family, sport wasn’t on her horizon, and a 

career as a hospital administrator further 

added to her cautious nature. Pressure 

from her three teenage children eventually 

turned the tables, and Frances, along with 

her husband Jim, took to the icy hills of 

Virginia and West Virginia. 

after almost 10 years without proper training, 

the ackermans began honing their 

skiing in early retirement at Canaan Valley 

resort in West Virginia. a ski patroller, seeing 

their openness and willingness to help 

others, proposed they become patrollers. 

When ackerman expressed worry about her 

ability, the patroller enlisted them both in 

lessons, and ski school is where they stayed. 

“i called my son and said, ‘this is the funniest 

thing, these people want me to be a ski 

instructor!’” ackerman recalls. 

in 1998, while teaching at Canaan Valley, 

she received her Level i Certification 

through the Professional ski instructors of 

america. two years later, seeking bigger 

mountains and better snow, the ackermans 

moved to angel Fire resort, new Mexico, 

where they lived and instructed for six 

years. there, ackerman earned her Level 

ii Certification and Level ii Children’s accreditation 

through Psia. 


ski

instruction 

at 58, ursuLa HoWLanD Has 

nearLY Done it aLL. she’s walked the 

runway as a child fashion model; flown airplanes; 

raced downhill courses on 220 cm skis 

and been a freestyle skier; taught gymnastics, 

scuba diving, wind surfing and skiing. 

Howland began skiing at age 19. a year 

later, while attending university in her 

native germany, she saw a job posting to 

instruct beginner skiers. not being able to 

afford skiing otherwise, Howland’s name 

was first on the sign-up list. 

“i went to the interview, and they asked 

how many years of experience i had. i said 

one season. i didn’t realize they were asking 

about instruction experience, not skiing 

experience.” 

being a natural athlete, Howland got the 

job and taught beginner lessons that winter. 

in 1978, working as a school teacher in the 

black Forest region, she also instructed 

at the Feldberg ski school and passed her 

german Level iii. in 1986, she moved to 

garmisch-Partenkirchen where she worked 

as ski and watersports instructor for the 

armed forces. three year later, she took off 

to travel the world, searching for a place to 

settle down. in 1990, she found Montana, 

the place she would eventually call home. 

Howland taught skiing at big sky resort 

that year. next, she spent a season instructing 

at bridger bowl, and several summers at 

Mount selwyn (now selwyn snowfield) in 

new south Wales, australia. 


bY renae Counter | PHotos bY CHris DaVis 

ursula howland 

Big Sky Resort 


Mountain 

97

pRoFIlE 

Frances 


trips to visit their son in big sky convinced them to relocate 

again. they bought a home and got on the roster at the Moonlight 

basin snow sports school in 2006. also a volunteer at 

ophir school, ackerman saw an empty niche: a ski program 

for 3-and 4 -year-olds. in 2010 she started the ski Wees 

Program with 11 students. two years later it’s grown to 73 

students and added a four-week session to the main six-week 

program. 

ackerman can still remember and relate to the fears of the 

first-time skier. 

“in the beginning it was pushing myself enough to do challenging 

things – moguls, tree runs. it was really hard for me to 

do those and feel comfortable.” 

nonetheless, she excelled at skiing, and at age 63 she is one of 

the resort’s most popular instructors, according to Herb Davis, 

director of Moonlight’s snow sports school. 

“Frances is incredibly positive, and clients love her,” Davis 

said. “she works great everywhere, from 3-year-olds separat- 


“her vibe is inFectious 

to both her clients 

and Fellow instructors.” 

ing from mom, to adults that have been skiing for a long time. 

Her vibe is infectious to both her clients and fellow instructors.” 

When teaching young children, ackerman’s enthusiasm 

helps put them at ease, allowing the kids to have fun. in adult 

lessons, she finds that understanding the whole person – 

acknowledging strengths, weaknesses and fears – forms a bond 

between student and instructor. 

“no matter what level you ski, you can enjoy the sport,” 

ackerman says.

pRoFIlE 

ursula 


in 1991, while working as the first woman in the hard goods 

department at bob Ward and sons in bozeman, she sold a 

duffle bag to Frank smith, owner of the towHaul Corporation, 

which builds equipment for open pit mines. Later that 

year, he signed up for a ski lesson. 

“the first time skiing, it took Frank two hours to get down one 

run,” Howland recalled. “He is a 150 percent thinker – everything 

had to be explained and broken down into the physics 

and biomechanics of it. We met every two weeks that season, 

and by the end of it he skied [down] the bridger ridge.” 

today, Howland’s instruction style is still a combination of 

this analytical approach, combined with a practical german 

application. 

“there are three basics, and they apply to every skier, beginner, 

intermediate or expert,” Howland says. “You need to be 

on the ball of the foot, perpendicular to your ski and turn with 

your legs.” 

in addition, she says, there are “three ingredients in every 

turn: rotation, edge and pressure. add in three ways to 

We’ve taken custom ski boots 

to a new level. 

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Located in Big Sky Town Center • Big Sky, Montana 

Skis • Boots • Clothing • Orthotics • Custom Boot Liners 

change edge, and you’ve got the simple math equation of 

skiing: three times three. 

“if you can get those in your head and in your body, you 

got it, most of it.” there’s also the all-important 90-degree 

quadrant. 

You’ll have to read her book to learn more about that… 

when she finishes it, sometime between skiing and flying. 

in 1995, smith gave Howland his airplane, a Cessna 205, 

to learn to fly. by 1996, she achieved her private pilot 

rating, and smith hired her as a researcher for towHaul. 

next, she added commercial, glider and instrument ratings 

to her pilot skills and is now flying towHaul’s King 

air as the copilot. she also tows and flies gliders for big 

sky Jet, inc. 

skiing is Howland’s passion, and though flying is now 

her main job, she still finds time to bring her skills to the 

slopes. 

“i love teaching … skiing is what i love the most.” 


Mountain 

99

GuIDE 

Plink, plink, plink. 

i woke to the sound of melting snow dripping 

from my roof. Flakes were still falling 

gently on the rusty green and yellow leaves 

in my backyard in Livingston. it was the 

perfect day for hot springs. 

i drove 70 miles north to White sulphur 

springs, an unassuming town with an 

outstanding resource of hot water. these 

healing waters are laden with sulfur, 

magnesium and lithium, and its pools are 

drained, cleaned and refilled daily. at 105 

degrees, the inside pool is like a steam room 

and hot pool mixed into one. 

“if you start to feel soggy, it’s time to 

move into the next pool,” a local soaker 

advised me. 

geothermal features like the springs at 

White sulphur come from deep in the 

earth’s crust and are found worldwide in 

earthquake and volcano belts. 


SouthWeSt Montana and 

yelloWStone area hot SpringS 

bY felicia ennis 

white sulphur springs photo bY emilY stifler 

Water temperatures in the springs vary 

greatly. some aren’t warm enough for a 

winter dip, and some – like most in Yellowstone 

national Park – are scalding hot. but 

quite a few in the Yellowstone region have 

temperatures between 90 and 106 degrees 

Fahrenheit, just right for a nice, long soak. 

the hot springs in southwest Montana run 

the gamut from primitive wilderness to 

historic resort to modern athletic facility. 

Here are a few favorites. 

CHICo HoT spRINGs REsoRT 

chico sits at 5,270 feet in the paradise 

Valley between livingston and gardiner. 

pioneers have written about these springs 

since the 1860s, and the 40-room chico 

Warm Springs hotel opened in 1900. 

today, chico is a favorite of locals and 

tourists alike. 

soak: large pool maintained at 96 F, side 

pool averages 103 F 

ski: 53 miles to bridger bowl 

special quality: Worth visiting solely for its 

great food 

BoZEMaN HoT spRINGs 

Jeremiah Mathews first opened 

bozeman hot Springs in 1879 as a 

bathhouse. Fully renovated in 2011, 

the facility now boasts a fitness 

center, nine pools, swimming 

lessons and a party room. 

soak: 90-104 F 

ski: 45 miles to big Sky/Moonlight 

special quality: Water temperatures 

vary greatly between pools

jaCksoN HoT spRINGs 

the 9,000-square-foot rustic lodge was built 

in 1950 and houses a giant oak dance floor, a 

large stone fireplace and a sturdy bar. More 

than 50 wild game trophies from several 

continents line the walls. don’t miss the 

delicious homemade food at the crossing 

bar & grill at Fetty’s in nearby Wisdom. 

soak: 100-104 F, olympic-sized pool 

ski: 44 miles to lost trail, 29 miles to 

Maverick Mountain 

special quality: Wildebeests in Montana 

FaIRMoNT HoT spRINGs 

Fairmont has it all: a 350-foot 

waterslide, an 18-hole golf course, two 

olympic-sized pools with unlimited 

hot, healing water, a fitness center and 

camping. 

soak: pools are fed by 155-degree 

water, cooled to various temperatures 

from 98-105 F. 

ski: 30 miles to discovery Ski area 

special quality: 350-foot enclosed 

water slide 

BoIlING RIvER 

one of very few hot pools in yellowstone national park open for soaking, 

the boiling river sits where its 150-degree namesake meets the 

icy gardiner river. the two swirl together and are captured in a series 

of primitive stone pools. Soak long enough, and you can imagine the 

native americans who spent time here in centuries past. it is closed 

during spring runoff. 

soak: 140 F in undiluted channels, 50-120 F where water mixes with 

the gardiner river 

ski: 55 miles to cooke city, a backcountry haven 

special quality: Situated on the 45th parallel, halfway between the 

equator and north pole 


Mountain 

boiling river photo bY maX lowe 

Based in Livingston, Montana, 

Felicia creates customized 

travel itineraries and group 

excursions to Patagonia, 

Morocco, Montana and 

Antarctica for groups, couples 

and solo adventurers who 

love the serendipity and 

thrill of exploring the world. 

bellatreks.com 

101

adventure 

THE loNG, ClEaN lINE 

a Ski traVerSe oF the gallatin creSt 

a map of the greater Yellowstone ecosYstem 

hangs on mY office wall. over the 

years, i’ve drawn a series of black lines on the map. they 

often follow the crest of a mountain range, a river or creek, 

or sometimes a combination. My favorites are the longest 

and straightest lines – the crest of the Wind river range, the 

thoroughfare river, the Wyoming range trail, the south 

Fork of the shoshone river. the lines represent routes i’ve 

traveled by ski, foot, packraft or mountain bike. 

there are more lines at the bottom of the map, closer to 

my home in Jackson, Wyoming, and also a few small ones 

at the top; these pass through the spanish Peaks and the 

beartooths, and alongside the Yellowstone river. 

Despite these, i was eager to draw something more substantial, 

something more aesthetic – a long, clean line. 

twenty years ago, Wes bunch and i started skiing in the 

teton range together. back then the tetons were a blank 

canvas, with only a few of the obvious lines drawn, just 

enough to inspire us. our mentor and my housemate at the 

time, tom turiano, had a map of the range and the goal of 

skiing all the named summits. Most of them had never been 

climbed in the winter, let alone skied. Wes and i, with our 

old, heavy, clunky ski and camping gear, followed tom on 

many long suffer-fests. We relished every minute and mile, 

and affectionately named the adventures “tom Foolery.” 

over the years, Wes and i have continued making annual 

pilgrimages to ski in the mountains together. in the summer 

of 2010, however, Wes had his left knee replaced. He took 

the following winter off from Jackson and skiing. 

the next May, my cell phone pinged with a text from Wes. 

“i can ski Forrest, i can ski!” 

With 2011’s record spring snowfall, June wouldn’t be too 

late to complete a long ski traverse. in a phone message, i 

proposed the gallatin Crest. He texted me back. He was in. 


by ForreSt Mccarthy 


above: a portion of the author’s routes drawn on a map of the greater 

Yellowstone ecosystem. map ©1996 Yellowstone ecoYsYstem studies

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we started at dalY creek in the 

northwest corner of Yellowstone park. 

at the trailhead, at 7,000 feet, the wide, sagebrush-covered 

drainage was free of snow. several miles of brisk hiking on 

a cold June morning brought us to snowline and our first 

critter tracks: Ursus arctos horribilis, grizzly bear. soon after, 

we saw elk tracks, then deer tracks. gaining the gallatin 

Crest at timberline, we crossed bighorn sheep tracks. 

Mountain temperatures had dropped below freezing the 

last several nights, creating a solid crust atop the saturated 

spring snow. We made good time along the crest, and by 

late morning we rested on the 10,301-foot summit of 

ramshorn Peak. the Madison range filled the horizon to 

the west: imp Peak, Koch Peak, Lone Mountain, the sphinx 

and gallatin Peak. to the east, Paradise Valley shined a deep 

wet green with emigrant Peak, Mount Cowen and black 

Mountain forming the imposing skyline of the northern 

absaroka. our curiosity and imaginations soared as we 

drew imaginary lines across these landscapes and mountains. 

skiing north from the top of ramshorn, the first thousand 

feet was perfect corn snow. Wes hooted, his grin visible 

for the duration of the descent. When the crust gave way 

at 9,000 feet, i tumbled head over heels into softening 

afternoon snow. 

our progress slowed as we traversed around Fortress 

Mountain, across questionable avalanche slopes. Fog settled 

in and with it, drizzle. beetle-killed whitebark pine covered 

the slopes on either side as we trudged along the gallatin 

Crest to eaglehead Mountain. 

We made our way north to a public use cabin at Windy 

Pass, the crest gradually rising back above 10,000 feet. the 

snow was firmer again, our route straighter, and our de- 

the cozy Windy pass cabin, available through the gallatin national 

Forest for public use during the summer months, allowed 

Mccarthy and bunch to forgo carrying camping equipment. 


the narrow spine of the gallatin range provides a high altitude 

ski route through Montana wilderness. 

photoS courteSy oF ForreSt Mccarthy 

termination resolute. the fog occasionally lifted, allowing 

seductive glimpses of the surrounding mountains. Despite 

the fatigue of 20 miles and 6,000 vertical feet, our excitement 

continued to grow. 

the Windy Pass Cabin is managed by the gallatin national 

Forest, and for a phone call and $20, they gave us the combination 

to its door. the cabin has a wood stove, four bunks, 

solid walls, a roof, chairs, cooking equipment and charm. it 

beats the hell out of sleeping on snow. For us, it also meant 

significantly lighter packs. 

tired and hungry, we inhaled our dinner of freeze-dried 

pasta before lying down for a few hours of fitful sleep. at 

4 a.m., the alarm on my wristwatch shattered the silence 

with its piercing beeps, and we brewed a vat of cowboy 

coffee. sweetened with hot chocolate, it washed down our 

breakfast of oatmeal and Poptarts. We left the cabin at first 

light, worried we should have started even earlier – it froze 

overnight, but barely. 

it was a few miles to the 9,945-foot sentinel, and kicker 

skins, carbon fiber skis and caffeine propelled us over the 

morning crust. the gallatin Crest north of this peak is 

magical. though far from straight, it hovers above tree line 

at about 10,000 feet, and is a natural pathway through a 

rugged maze of mountains and valleys.

the terrain was complex and 

exposed enough that we were 

rarely bored. nor were Wes and i 

the only ones to use this route – 

we followed a coyote’s tracks for 

more than five miles. on Peak 

10,059 we crossed a giant fivetoed 

weasel track: Gulo gulo, the 

glutton, wolverine. 

at the western end of Peak 

9,690, we were confronted with 

negotiating a 100-foot wall of 

rock by traversing sketchy, 

40-degree avalanche slopes 

warming in the afternoon sun. 

We picked our way carefully, 

factoring every convexity, concavity, 

wind scoop, recent slide, 

tree and nuance into our decision-making. 

after 30 minutes, 

we reached a lower angle slope 

of whitebark pines, relieved for 

the final safe passage back to the 

crest. 

skiing through beetle-ravaged 

conifers for a mile to Crater Lake, 

i noticed young- 

er, healthy 

green trees, as 

well as the occasional 

ancient 

matriarch that 

had resisted the 

ravenous pests. 

Here, i saw survival 

and hope. 

the final ridge 

from Crater Lake to Hyalite 

Peak was narrow and corniced, 

dropping away steeply on either 

side. and if that wasn’t enough, 

a storm cell collided with the 

crest, visibility dropped, and 

thunder and lightning filled the 

sky. it was already mid-afternoon, 

and we had just enough 

daylight remaining to complete 

the traverse. 

“the final ridge from crater 

lake to hyalite peak was 

narrow and corniced, dropping 

away steeply on either 

side. and if that wasn’t 

enough, a storm cell collided 

with the crest, visibility 

dropped, and thunder and 

lightning filled the sky.” 

impatiently, Wes and i picked 

our way along, balancing the risk 

of exposing ourselves to a lightning 

strike on the ridge against 

the avalanche danger of traversing 

its flanks. 

the storm subsided as we began our 

ascent to Hyalite Peak, and on the 

summit, clearing skies and pan- 

oramic vistas greeted 

us. to the north, 

we saw alex Lowe 

Peak, named for the 

famous bozeman 

climber killed by an 

avalanche in the Himalaya in 1999. 

Having worked with alex at exum 

Mountain guides in the tetons years 

ago, seeing the peak reminded me of 

his boundless energy and enthusiasm 

for the mountains, something that 

continues to inspire me today. 

We celebrated our final summit with 

a festival of grins, high-fives, hugs, 

photographs, Clif bars and a red 

bull. 


after removing our skins for the 

last time, we descended Hyalite’s 

northwest side. a small cornicedrop 

provided the final technical 

challenge, and lower down, 

negotiating apex Falls the final 

route-finding challenge. soon 

after, we cruised the remaining 

three miles along a packed trail 

to Palace butte Campground, 

Wesley bunch makes his way along the crest 

of the gallatin range, on ramshorn peak. 

a road and our ride.Wes and i 

arrived back in Jackson late that 

night after two days, 45 miles and 

12,000 vertical feet of skiing, multiple 

blisters and a final five-hour 

car ride. i was supposed to be at 

work the following morning. 

at home, i limped upstairs and 

took 600 milligrams of advil PM. 

before the bliss of accomplishment 

and ibuprofen settled in, 

i visited my map of the greater 

Yellowstone and drew a beautiful, 

long and aesthetic line across the 

top of it. 

Mountain 

105

Kent Davis (Madwolf) 

JC & Kathleen 1994 

Rusty Squire 

Kevin Kelleher and Todd Wood 

Dan “Bucky” Bilanon, Devon White, Julia Nichols 

Early Ski School 


Robert Kirschlager 

Rathole + Dobe (Mike Donovon) 

Charlie Nunemaker 

Annaleis Miller

history 

bY marcie hahn-knoff 

gary “Chicken Fry” Collins arrived 

in big sky country by accident. He’d 

planned to spend the winter of 1973- 

1974 as a ski instructor in taos, new 

Mexico, but the season began with 

no snow. 

so, he hopped in his van and 

meandered north with an idea of 

settling in steamboat, Colorado. 

upon arriving, Collins discovered 

a booming resort community had 

replaced the sleepy ski town he’d left 

only a couple years prior. not one for 

crowds, he pulled to the side of the 

road and considered his next move. 

thoughts of big sky, a new resort 

in Montana, lingered in his mind. it 

seemed promising, but at 21 years 

old and with only $35 in his pocket, 

it felt out of reach. as luck would 

have it, just hours later a semi-truck 

hauling sheep flipped over outside 

town, and Collins scooped up a quick 

$50 by helping clear the mess. 

He drove north the next day, arriving 

in big sky in time for the ribbon cutting. 

after a trip to human resources, 

he had himself a job and a room. 

soon thereafter he earned the nickname 

Chicken Fry (“C-Fry” for short), 

slinging eggs for hungry employees as 

a breakfast cook. 

Collins saw the magic in big sky. it 

was new but not congested. With 

tremendous open space, it still felt 

wild. there was no powder frenzy and 

plenty of terrain to explore. but it was 

the people that gravitated to big sky in 

these early days that turned out to be 

the real treasure. 

the launch of big sky resort in the 

early 1970s lured construction workers, 

snow professionals, entrepreneurs 

and ski bums like “Chicken-Fry” 

Collins, attracted by the promise of 

new adventure, untracked snow and a 

fresh start. 

they all fell under the spell of Lone 

Mountain. 

Four decades later, big sky has become 

a world-class ski resort and a thriving 

year-round community. the individuals 

who came in those early days laid 

much of the groundwork that made it 

possible, and their stories tell of determination, 

friendship and hard work. 

Mike McCully embraced that pioneer 

spirit when he opened the 

Conoco gas station 

Under the spell of 

pHoTos CouRTEsy oF j.C. kNauB 

in 1972, at the turnoff to big sky 

from Highway 191. at the time, the 

Meadow area was a hayfield, but Mc- 

Cully could tell change was coming. 

He recalls days of sub-zero weather 

and was amazed that the construction 

on the mountain continued through 

the most “hard core” weather. one 

morning in January 1974, the thermometer 

at the Conoco read -62F. 

Lynn bailey (née Poindexter) showed 

up in 1970, three years before the 

resort opened, in a Volkswagen bug 

with her three kids. she’d followed 

gustav raaum, her boss from Jackson 

Hole, when he was hired as big 

sky resort’s first Ceo. 

“everyone i met in big sky was from 

somewhere else, and we quickly created 

a family of friends,” bailey says. 

“it still felt remote in those days, 

and people relied on their neighbors 

to get by.” Her kids were welcomed 

into the one-room ophir school, the 

three of them increasing the school 

population by 30 percent. 

J.C. Knaub moved to big sky from 

Laurel in 1972, at 17 years old. He 

had followed his father, Harold “the 

Coach” Knaub, who moved to town 

to work construction. J.C. settled into 

a trailer in Pine grove. Many big sky 

residents from this generation lived 

in cars, tents, trailers or old cabins – 

modern accommodations hadn’t been 

completed yet. 

40 years down the road 


Mountain 

107

“Big Sky in the ‘70s felt like it was 

our own little world. We were all part of 

something amazing and synergistic.” 

“there was an interesting overlap of 

the old homesteader pioneers and the 

new ski resort pioneers,” he says. 

J.C. documented these early years in 

photos, capturing the homesteaders, 

the beginnings of development, the 

raw land, the ski pioneers dropping 

new lines on Lone Mountain, and 

his friends outfitted in the height of 

1970s ski fashion. 

“it was a wild area, much more remote 

than today,” J.C. says. “there was 

only a two-track logging road up to 

the mountain when i arrived. the area 

felt huge. big sky in the ‘70s felt like 

it was our own little world. We were 

all part of something amazing and 

synergistic.” 

Mike “Dobe” Donovan was one of 

big sky’s first professional ski patrollers 

during the season of 1973-1974. 

there were only eight on the patrol 

that first year, and many including 

Donovan had followed Jim Kanzler 

over from bridger bowl. 

J.C. Knaub popping on Ambush 

“big sky was amazing terrain,” Donovan 

says. “it wasn’t crowded, and it 

wasn’t a destination area yet. the snow 

didn’t get skied out, and the gondola 

made it cool.” 

Donovan worked his way up and became 

patrol director in 1979. He left big 

sky in 1981 to attend college and never 

returned to live in big sky. but he left 

his mark, and Dobe’s, the chute beneath 

the tram, is named for him. 

When Mike scholz’s family purchased 

buck’s t-4 in 1972, scholz saw opportunity. 

as a young man, he could start 

a business and live the mountain life- 

40 years down the road 

MaRCH 15 – 16, 2013 


in March 2013, the pioneers of the early resort days 

will reunite in big Sky for “40 years down the road,” 

a celebration to be held at buck’s t-4. buck’s 

owner Mike Scholz has planned a cocktail party 

and banquet, complete with music from the era, 

slideshows and a video. 

“the reunion will be a time to reflect on the journey 

of friendship, shared space and time,” J.c. knaub 

says. “it will be an opportunity to ponder who you 

were in that moment and who you are now.” 

Watch 1970s big Sky footage on the old big Sky youtube 

channel, youtube.com/user/oldbigskymovies. 

to see or contribute photos from this time period, visit 

flickr.com/photos/gwcollins. 

style, all while starting his own family. 

through his efforts, buck’s has grown 

from a waypoint on the journey to Yellowstone 

with no winter business, to 

the successful lodge it is today. 

“if anyone needed to learn how to work 

hard, they just had to spend a month 

with Mike (scholz),” Collins says, 

attributing scholz’s success to his business 

acumen. 

still calling big sky home, J.C. Knaub 

says the connection to his friends from 

that era hasn’t faded with time. 

McCully agrees, describing the feeling 

of reconnecting with fellow big sky 

skiers from that era as “magnified magic 

love.” 

“it is a feeling that is difficult to 

describe,” McCully says, “but it is impactful. 

every time we’ve gotten back 

in touch, something magic happens.” 

Marcie Hahn-Knoff has been whooping 

it up in the powder of the West for the 

past two decades and now calls Montana 

home. When not sliding downhill, she 

helps people buy or sell their own piece of 

the Big Sky as a real estate broker with 

Winter & Company Real Estate. Find 

her at homeinbigsky.com. 

knaub’s vintage photos of the era and a collection 

from others will be shown at the event. 

gary “chicken-Fry” collins has been busy editing 

video reel to be shown at the reunion. collins, who 

idolized Warren Miller, kept a Super 8 camera and 

then a VhS camera as constant companions during 

his 11 years skiing at big Sky. 

“Watching the films brings me back in time,” collins 

says. “they capture the rich cast of characters 

of the early 1970s in big Sky – from construction 

workers to resort professionals to ski bums – the 

people that worked hard and played even harder.” 

For more event information, visit buckst4.com.

Professionally accredited green builder in Big Sky, Montana 

Contact us to learn more about our 

building quality and eco-friendly custom 

homes throughout the mountain west 

(406) 995-4552 

haasbuilders.com 


Mountain 

109

nate falconer, montana state 

university student and pro-am 

snowboarder, hikes the jump 

line at big sky resort’s terrain 

park. photo bY maX lowe 

gear reviews: 

inbounds 

skIs: RossIGNol sQuaD 7 

the new squad 7s are solid but forgiving, 

says grizzly outfitters’ andrew schreiner. 

compared to its predecessor, the super 7, 

this ski has a lower-profile tail and shovel, 

and a larger turn radius. “it turns as easy 

as anything if you’re on the front of your 

boot, but if you want to go fast, you’re not 

fighting to make a big turn.” at 5.3 pounds 

each, they’re relatively light (read: easy 

on the knees), and the re-designed tip improves 

performance in the chop, schreiner 

said. available in 188 cm. – e.s. 

$799.95 rossignol.com/us 

MITTs: ouTDooR REsEaRCH 

poINT N’ CHuTE 

one problem has plagued me since 

i first took to the slopes: cold hands. 

for 20-some years, i’ve searched 

from my family’s hand-me-down 

tub to high-tech gear shops for mittens 

that let me play in the cold to 

my heart’s content. turns out or’s 

water-repellent, all leather point n’ 

chute mitts are the solution. ahhhh… 

primaloft insulation, gore-tex 

protection and a stylish deep-purple 

undercuff. sending a very warm 

high-five to or. – kelsey dzintars 

$119.00 outdoorresearch.com 


sNoWBoaRD: NEvER suMMER lEGaCy 

i like to consider myself an all mountain rider. 

so, when throwing down for a new snowboard, 

i needed something wide enough for the steep 

and deep, yet responsive enough for narrow-nav 

trees. i found it: the effortless turn initiation provided 

by the legacy’s rocker and sidecut allowed 

a significant length upgrade without sacrificing 

playfulness. – mike martins 

$509 neversummer.com 

HElMET: sMITH GaGE 

gone are the days when you 

didn’t wear a helmet because it 

looked lame. You gave up on that 

when you stacked after telling 

your friends, “watch this!” that 

argument has gone the way of 

the dodo, thanks to the smith 

gage helmet. suiting up with 

this lid gives you so much swag 

you’ll even be strutting it après. i 

guarantee the gage looks better 

than a soggy beanie. and it holds 

up better in a crash. 

– chris davis 

$80 smithoptics.com

gOggles: sMith i/OX 

The latest addition to Smith’s Vaporator Series, 

the I/OX is about seeing more. Their field 

of view is unmatched by any other goggle, yet 

the expansive real estate doesn’t compromise 

helmet fit. The quick lens release technology 

allows easy swapping in varying light conditions, 

and the 5x Anti-Fog inner lens keeps its 

fog prevention promise. – M.M. 

$175 

JaCket: Men’s OutdOOr researCh igneO 

Thermore®, the insulating force behind the 

Igneo, reduces thickness without sacrificing 

warmth. Waterproof and breathable, it has 

high-end features but won’t break the bank. 

Also: all the pockets you’d expect, plus a detachable 

powder skirt, removable hood, and 

double-sliding pit zips. My favorite feature is 

the simplest – the ThumbDrive cuff, which 

keeps a tight connection between your sleeve 

and glove. – M.M. 

$295 outdoorresearch.com 

Caravan skis 

Zeph Hallowell began making skis in his Bozeman 

garage in summer 2011, “because I was bored and 

wanted a big project.” He’s got three big projects 

now: the Pig Dog, Zephyr and Daily Driver are 

made of basalt fiber, bamboo and fiberglass with 

custom top sheets by local artists available. Hand 

cut, hand glued and hand pressed. – Tyler Allen 

starting at $499 caravanskis.com 

Zeph Hallowell at work on a new pair of Caravan skis 

PHOTO By MAX LOWE 

Baselayer: Bergans Of nOrway 

fJellrap lady shirt 

With flatlock seams and stretch merino 

wool, this top moves with you no matter 

the activity. An added bonus: Its extra 

long length doesn’t come untucked from 

ski pants and covers your backside with 

running tights on. Wicking, warm and with 

a wild Euro look, this is my go-to piece unless 

it’s in the wash. – Katie Morrison 

$91 bergans.com 


explorebigsky.comMountain 

Mountain 

111 111

nate bosshard at baldface lodge 

nelson, british columbia 

photo bY nick diamond 

gear reviews: 

backcountry 


patagonia men’s nano puff hoody 

this is the perfect lightweight jacket for layering. 

i wear it under a hard shell at the resort and take 

it as a key piece for the backcountry. the hood 

adds that extra bit of warmth when you really 

need it. and one more thing: the nano makes 

you look sexy as hell. – sean weas 

$249 patagonia.com 

g3 alpinist high traction skins/love glove 

built for punishingly steep skin tracks, the g3 alpinist hightraction 

skins are made from high-plush nylon and have 15 percent greater 

climbing ability than traditional designs. (note: g3 still makes its 

regular alpinist skins, which balance glide with climbing ability.) 

tired of pulling gluey gook off your gloves? check out g3’s love 

gloves ($35). like flipping a t-shirt inside out, put your arm in, grab 

the middle of your skin, and retract. from there, they’ll fold up 

without sticking to themselves. also good for hiding your transceiver 

for beacon drills. - e.s. 

$153.95-179.95 genuinegearguide.com 

dakine pro ii 26 liter Backpack 

a perfect day means good friends, fluffy and stable 

snow, a two hour hike, 10 minutes of fall line bliss, and 

a celebratory beer. the right gear is key for this kind of 

enlightenment. dakine’s pro ii 26 liter backpack has a 

dedicated shovel/probe pocket, an insulated hydration 

sleeve, and a whistle rigged into the chest strap 

for emergencies (or annoying your friends indoors). 

even with skis strapped to it, i found the pro ii rigid and 

comfortable. top and back entries make it easy to get 

into when there’s a perfect photo-op. – brian niles 

$130 dakine.com 

Boots - dynafit gaia 

with four buckles, a 110 flex and an alpine overlap cuff, the 

gaia is an everyday boot. the rubber/plastic soles are interchangeable, 

but i keep the rubber for traction while boot 

packing. the 102 last is narrow for an at boot but wider 

than traditional alpine, and the thermoformable liners fit 

as is. the men’s version, the titan ($749), is a staple. new 

this year, check out the dynafit one pX ($640) – with much 

greater touring capacity (cuff articulation is 60 degrees, 

versus the gaia’s 15), the boot is still stiff on the downhill. 

this is a sexy three-buckle touring maniac. – e.s. 

$669 dynafit.com 

snowBoard touring system: 

mountain approach 

this ketchum, idaho-based company has turned heads in 

its three years. “we were sick of riding splitboards,” said 

founder cory smith. so they invented a set of 140 cm, lightweight 

foldable skis with permanent climbing skins that 

pack into their own custom backpack. the binding accommodates 

any boot size, and each ski is four pounds. “we’re 

just trying to give people an alternative.” – e.s. 

$795 mtnapproach.com

avalaNCHE EQuIpMENT 

avalanche transceiver – whatever beacon you 

choose, practice with it. a lot. the best one is 

the one you know how to use really well. 

collapsible shovel – get one with a metal 

blade. this is key for digging through avalanche 

debris, which sets up like cement. 

avalanche education – the pros at the gallatin 

national forest avalanche center teach affordable, 

informative classes all winter. take 

one. and get your hands on a copy of staying 

alive in avalanche terrain by bruce tremper. 

ski touring 

Binding: dynafit tlt 

vertical st 

with these bindings, skinning is so 

natural it’s almost unimpressive: no more 

frankenstein walking or booting out; be 

gone hip flexor pain. the tlt Vertical st’s also 

perform well on the downhill for a skier light on 

his/her feet – with a ‘release capacity’ of 5-10, they 

don’t fall off unless you need them to. specs: made from 

high strength polymer plastic, cromo and stainless steel; 

520 g. new in 2012, the radical st ($499) has better power 

transmission than the Vertical, but is still light on the uphill 

for touring monkeys on wide planks. – e.s. 

$449 

Black diamond compactor poles 

as a backcountry snowboarder, 

nothing can be more 

annoying than bulking up 

my pack for the ride down. 

using bd’s z-pole technology, 

the compactors fold up and 

become basically nonexistent 

on the descent. light, strong 

and incredibly small, your legs 

will thank you on the way up, 

and your mind will forget about 

them on the way down. 

adjustable up to 20 c.m. - s.w. 

$119 blackdiamondequipment.com 

skis: 4frnt hoji 

designed by backcountry big 

mountain skiing maestro eric 

hjorleifson, the hoJi’s are 

stable, yet nimble. “i could go 

as fast as i wanted,” our tester 

said. “they have a light feel, 

easy to make quick turns.” he 

liked them so much he ran out 

and bought a pair. – e.s. 

$749 4frnt.com 

probe – debris can be deep. get a sturdy, 

three-meter probe. 

partner – pick a friend you trust. 

airbag backpack – the late theo meiners, 

avalanche expert and alaska heli-guide, called 

this just another tool in the bag. it’s not the 

hand of god, but it might up your chances for 

survival. 

medical kit – tape is essential. painkillers, 

steri-strips and gauze are recommended. 

know what you have and how to use it. 

113

1 

GEaR 

BaCkCouNTRy: 

Mammut Base jump Touring pant 

it’s no surprise the base Jump touring pants 

come from a company rooted in the swiss 

alps. mammut gets five stars with the women’s 

version – the sublime blend of stretch, warmth 

and waterproofing doesn’t sacrifice toughness 

or agility. the brushed interior keeps me warm 

on cold big sky days, while the 3XdrY is crucial 

for staying dry on long ascents in bc’s Valhalla 

range. other perks: good venting, suspenders, 

integrated gaiters, reinforced cuffs. men’s cuts 

also available. – megan paulson 

$259 mammut.ch 

2 HaRD sHEll: 

arc’teryx sabre/sentinel 

designed for resort and sidecountry riding, this 

is the best ski pant known to man (and woman). 

the freeride-style fit, combined with the classic 

arc’teryx articulation in the knees and inseams, 

gives you steeze and range of motion. the threelayer 

soft shell gore-tex fabric is tech-nasty: the 

outermost layer is a burly, abrasion resistant 

nylon; the gore membrane is waterproof; and 

the innermost layer is soft, lo-loft flannel. cargo 

pockets and hip stash are easy-access on the 

chairlift, and the zippers are watertight. thigh 

vents provide respite on a hot hike. – e.s. 

$450 arcteryx.com 

3 

1 


2 

pants 

party 

oNEsIE: 

airblaster Ninja suit 

riding in the powder-filled b.c. backcountry, 

i caught my nose, threw a tomahawk, 

tumbled thrice and a half, and landed 

upside down in three feet of the fresh and 

light. i discovered snow in nearly every crevice 

except down my pants, thanks to this 

wonderful onesie, my only base layer on the 

10-degree day. with a 350-degree zippered 

waist, optional hood, and moisture-wicking 

fabric, i’m always ready to kick some ass, 

even in pink paisley. – k.d. 

$109.99 myairblaster.com 

3 4 

4 

5 

HoTpaNTs 

everyone needs a pair of hotpants. if you 

live in a ski town, that means a brightly 

colored pair made prior to 1990. this is 

elemental to your survival. 

Casual: 

Horny Toad jaywalk pants 

a well-fitting, comfortable pair of pants 

is like a favorite pair of skis. You wear (or 

ride) them every day and have to make 

a conscious effort to switch things up. 

the Jaywalks fit the bill. their charcoalcolored 

twill weave looks good off the 

rack and washes down to a quality vintage 

look; the 2 percent smattering of spandex 

allows mobility in the meantime. – t.a. 

$75 hornytoad.com 

somewhere in ski town, usa, a girl is missing her obermeyer 

hot pants photo bY chris daVis 

5

Photo: Learmond - Skier: Mayr 

Revelstoke’s ONLY Small-Group Day Heliskiing 

5-Star Lodge and Day Heliski Packages 

www.EaglePassHeliSkiing.com 

1 877 WAY explorebigsky.com DEEP 

Mountain 

FREE HELISKI 

115

GEaR 

ETHNoTEk lapTop DEp slEEvE 

dep means handsome or beautiful in Vietnamese. 

since that’s where ethnotek’s bags are sewn and 

where company founder/head designer Jake orak 

lives half the year, he named the sleeve after a Vietnamese 

word that says, “dang that’s a good looking 

laptop sleeve!” partnering with artisans in ghana, 

guatemala, india, indonesia and Vietnam, ethnotek 

incorporates handmade textiles into its bags, as 

well as sturdy stitching, a big-toothed zipper, and 

svelte padding. – e.s. 

$45-55 ethnotekbags.com 

ClIF BaR kIT’s oRGaNICs 

new this year, kit’s organics 

are made from a base of dates, 

and have simple ingredients 

like berries, cashews, almonds 

and sea salt. 

clifbar.com $17.99/box of 12 

the 

outdoor 

athlete’S 

guide to office 

GEEkDEsk 

from late night copy edit sessions to intense political interviews, the 

geekdesk keeps you on your feet – literally. electronic buttons control 

the elevation, so any outlaw can stand at a comfortable working 

height. pre-set levels make it easy to bring it back to your level. geek 

on! available in several frame sizes. 

$749 - 799 geekdesk.com 

survival 

the outlaws taking survival to a new level photo bY chris daVis 


BlaCk DIaMoND spRINTER usB HEaDlaMp 

the sprinter gets you out of the office and onto 

the trail. it charges via usb port, so while you’re 

plugging away, it’s fueling up. on the highest setting, 

75 lumens, this torch lasts up to six hours, 

and up to 42 on lower settings. a rear red light 

keeps you visible to vehicles, and the weather 

resistant exterior leaves no excuses. – r.c. 

$69.95 blackdiamondequipment.com 

GIBBoN slaCkRaCk 

work consumes most of the daylight 

hours during the outlaw winter, 

and much of the darkness, too. 

weekends skiing or ice climbing 

are a fleeting fix, and the slackrack 

is our remedy. its two-inchwide 

webbing stretches 12 feet 

long, enough to wake up your core 

on the way to the coffee machine. 

one foot off the ground, it’s perfect 

for casual slackliners looking to 

improve skills and balance. nearly 

every outlaw client that’s walked 

into the office has given it a go, 

and bridger bowl ski patroller ray 

dombroski sent it first try. – t.a. 

$299.99 gibbon-slacklines.com

vEW-Do NuB BalaNCE BoaRD 

it’s like a traditional Vew-do board 

with no moving parts. launched 

in winter 2012, the nub improves 

balance for any sport. the learning 

curve is quick, says company 

founder brew moscarello. stance is 

key, he says. “it’s not just straddle 

the center, teeter toe to heel and 

rotate. You can shorten up, put one 

foot in the center of the board, turn 

and spin.” – e.s. 

$99.95 vewdo.com 

oN skI BREak 

aDvICE FRoM 

THE EXpERTs 

saNuk RuGBuRN slIppERs 

$45 sanuk.com 

kRIMsoN klovER TRavElING RoDEo TuNIC 

if there’s a downside to workday ski breaks, it’s 

the concentration-blowing shivering that ensues 

afterward. the traveling rodeo tunic is the answer 

to looking professional and staying warm after a few 

turns over lunch. super-soft, tightly woven merino 

wool is paired with beautiful design and rich colors. 

add leggings, chunky heel boots and a lip gloss touch 

up, and your boss will never know your midday meeting 

was with old man winter. – k.m. 

krimsonklover.com $198 


Go ouTsIDE EvERy Day. 

it’s a standard in the outdoor industry, says serene 

pelletier, dakine’s marketing and pr manager. “at 

dakine, we take group bike rides at lunch and bring 

our dogs to work.” in that vein... 

BRING youR DoG To WoRk. 

“having a dog in the office keeps stress levels low,” 

says susan strible from ruffwear. “it’s also a constant 

reminder to get outside more!” 

WEaR suNBloCk, aND TRy To kEEp ‘ER REElED IN 

WHEN CallING IN sICk oN a BluEBIRD poW Day. 

“nothing gives you away faster than a goggle burn or 

blown knee,” says nick castagnoli, rossignol public 

relations guru. “if you work in the ski industry like i 

do, calling in sick is a moot point…the boss already 

knows what i’m up to.” 

usE lIGHT THERapy. 

this can be a valid treatment for the winter blues, 

says dr. maren dunn, of the gallatin family medical 

clinic in big sky. “bright light needs to enter your 

eyes at a certain intensity to cause your brain to produce 

more serotonin, the body’s natural “happy pill.” 

DRINk MoRE WaTER THaN you THINk. 

this from eric “hende” henderson, previously a 

mountain guide in the tetons, now an armchair forecaster/account 

manager at denny, ink. in Jackson, 

wyoming. he also suggests stretching hourly, standing 

while typing, and running or skinning the same 

route “to track your office fitness.” finally, he says, 

“lay off the beer...stick to vodka!” 

klEaN kaNTEEN INsulaTED BoTTlE 

this double-walled wide vacuum bottle is essential to my 

productivity, as i switch from coffee in the morning to yerba 

mate midday. the quick twist, splash-proof cafe cap ($5.95) 

makes it easy to fill a mate gourd or take coffee to go. it’s 

not leak-proof, so hang onto the included loop cap for 

stashing hot, skin track beverages in your ski pack. – t.a. 

$27.95 kleankanteen.com 

MouNTaIN kHakIs pEaks FlaNNEl 

the new peaks flannel by mountain khakis 

is tough, warm and stretchy. side gussets 

add a feminine curve, and the longer hem 

keeps you covered. a wool/poly/lycra blend, 

it’s an ideal layer for morning ski runs before 

a day in the office (it wicks and doesn’t stink 

or wrinkle). men’s cuts and colors also available. 

– r.c. 

$89.95 mountainkhakis.com 

Mountain 

117

RoaD TRIp 

sweet 

photos courtesY of montana’s sweet 16 


bY renae counter 

on Jan.1, 2012 Cory birkenbuel set off 

with a goal to ski every one of Montana’s 

16 ski areas in 16 days. 

as part of his internship as a business 

student at the university of Montana 

Western in Dillon, birkenbuel coined 

the adventure “Montana’s sweet 16.” 

accompanying him were his longtime 

friend and Montana state film student 

Kevin Hilton and an undying passion for 

Montana skiing. 

“anybody can ski Montana. We have the 

best skiing in america,” birkenbuel said. 

growing up in Dillon, birkenbuel was 

raised on the slopes of Maverick Mountain, 

a small ski area with gorgeous views 

and killer skiing in the rural grasshopper 

Valley. Here, birkenbuel grew to love 

skiing, to find solace in it, and to pass that 

love along to others. in his 20s, he taught 

skiing there, and even taught Hilton to 

ski at age 7. 

at 33, birkenbuel was curious if the 

rest of Montana had a passion for skiing 

that paralleled what he experienced at 

Maverick. 

From the journey, he and Hilton produced 

Montana’s sweet 16, a full length, 

feature film that captures the passion 

birkenbuel sought. it shows a rippling 

pride for hometown Montana ski areas 

and powder lines.

BIRkENBuEl’s RouTE 

oN THE sWEET 16 TouR: 

jaN. 1 -2: BIG sky aND MooNlIGHT 

home to the biggest skiing in america 

jaN. 3: BRIDGER BoWl 

the bridger ridge is famous. the recently 

opened slushman’s zone is already legend. 

jaN. 4: RED loDGE 

known for big, late season snowstorms 

jaN. 5: TEToN pass 

114 acres, 1,000 vert and a wild setting on the 

rocky mountain front 

jaN. 6: sHoWDoWN 

at 75 years old, montana’s oldest ski area 

jaN. 7: BEaR paW skI BoWl 

“ski knee-deep cheap” on the chippewa cree 

indian reservation 

jaN. 8: TuRNER MouNTaIN 

all 2,000 vert of rockin’ terrain is available 

for rent. 

jaN.9: lookouT pass 

free ski and snowboard lessons for ages 6 through 17 

jaN. 10: WHITEFIsH MouNTaIN REsoRT 

snow ghosts, creamy pow and 3,000 skiable acres 

jaN. 11: BlaCkTaIl MouNTaIN 

drive to the top and drop in before ever riding a chair. 

jaN. 12: MoNTaNa sNoWBoWl 

the front side trees are epic – when there’s fresh. the last run inn 

is one of the nation’s best ski area bars. 

“the people in Montana have a true 

passion for everything they do,” 

birkenbuel said after the trip. “i hope 

i educated the ski community that 

there are 16 ski areas in Montana, and 

i hope i motivated people to go ski 

them.” 

but it wasn’t all easy. on november 

27, before the trip even started, a fire 

consumed birkenbuel’s house. then, 

while skiing bridger bowl on January 

3, he honored the 10th anniversary of 

his brother, Cody’s death. on January 

4, a credit card company levied 

birkenbuel’s bank account, emptying 

9 

8 

10 

11 

12 

15 

14 

16 

his entire savings for the trip, and 

on January 5, he learned of another 

friend’s passing. 

but through great loss comes great 

understanding, and birkenbuel’s 

journey taught him even more: skiing 

equals peace of mind. on January 16, 

after an early morning run at Maverick, 

he became the first person to ski 

all 16 Montana ski areas in 16 days. 

Viewings of Montana’s sweet 16 will 

be held across Montana this winter 

and at the Cold smoke awards in 

bozeman this February. 

13 

jaN. 13: GREaT DIvIDE 

five terrain parks, night skiing and montana-style jibbing on old 

mine tailings 

jaN. 14: DIsCovERy 

the backside is steep and radical. the views are gorgeous, the 

baked goods incredible. 

jaN. 15: losT TRaIl poWDER MouNTaIN 

lt straddles the bitterroot/salmon national forests, the montana/ 

idaho border and two different time zones. early season dumps are 

king. 

2 

1 

jaN. 16: MavERICk MouNTaIN 

ride the white thunder! 

“the people in Montana 

haVe a true paSSion For 


explorebigsky.comMountain 

Mountain 

5 

3 

6 

eVerything they do...there 

are 16 Ski areaS [here], and 

i hope i MotiVated people to 

go Ski theM.” 

7 

4 

119 119

ouTlaW 

F e a t u r e d 

tWentY-FiVe Years ago, MiCHaeL reYnoLDs 

asseMbLeD ProgressiVe arCHiteCturaL 

PrototYPes into one seMinaL iDea: 

eartHsHiPs. 

integrating solar, wind, thermal 

mass, rainwater harvest, gray water 

recycling and indoor food production, 

the taos, new Mexicobased 

architect builds homes from 

re-purposed garbage. the exterior 

shell and interior walls are made 

from used tires pounded full of 

dirt, glass bottles and cans, stacked 

and mortared together with mud. 

“i don’t call anything garbage,” 

reynolds says. “We can use anything 

for building materials.” 

the structures are off the grid, 

and off the map of conventional 

home construction, which is why 

the county tried to shut down his 

greater World earthship Community 

test site. 

even a seven-year permitting 

battle with taos County and an 


outlaW: 

estrada earthship in taos, new mexico 

photo bY kirsten Jacobsen 

MICHaEl 

REyNolDs 

bY tYler allen 

photo bY kirsten Jacobsen 

exhausting effort in the new Mexico legislature to pass 

a new sustainable building act couldn’t break reynolds’ 

resolve. in 2007, he returned to his life’s work: changing 

the world one house at a time. 

the estrada earthship in taos, new mexico. photo bY kirsten Jacobsen

the greenhouse in monte koch’s earthship, big timber, montana 

photo bY mattY mccain 

His company earthship 

biotecture, 

given notoriety by 

the documentary 

garbage Warrior, 

has built more 

than 1,000 of these 

buildings, while 

do-it-yourselfers 

have built another 

“the efficiency 

and economics 

make sense. if 

you take care of 

this house, it will 

take care of you.” 

1,000. taos has been the training ground, though 

reynolds has built earthships from illinois to Vermont, 

Canada to Haiti, and France to australia; as well 

as on islands in the indian ocean stricken by the 2004 

boxing Day tsunami. 

Monte Koch lives in an earthship northeast of big 

timber, Montana. “i’m not a huge global warming 

environmentalist,” he says. “but the efficiency and 

economics make sense. if you take care of this house, 

it will take care of you.” 

it’s so well insulated, Koch can’t even hear the notorious 

shields Valley wind that rips over the barren 

steppe east of the Crazy Mountains. During winter 

storms, he uses a giant squeegee to keep snow from 

piling up on his giant south-facing windows. 

“this deal isn’t for everyone,” Koch says. “but everyone 

can learn from it.” 

the earth’s mass stores heat – about 48 degrees below 

the frost line in big timber – which is conducted by 

Providing a 

Big Sky 

- Locally owned, 24/7 service 

- Dedicated on-site property manager 

- Care-taking, marketing, reservations & 

concierge services under one roof 

- Commission based structure - 

No monthly management fees 

- The only company in Big Sky to offer 

the services from our sister companies: 

Yellowstone Luxury Tours, Yellowstone 

Car Rentals & Shuttle to Big Sky & Taxi 

info@bigskyluxuryrentals.com | 800.844.6081 

bigskyluxuryrentals.com a division of: 


peace of mind. 

Mountain 

121

ouTlaW 

glass bottles and aluminum cans lining the interior walls of 

koch’s earthship refract and reflect light photo bY mattY mccain 

Bringing you closer to 

Santosha (contentment) today... 

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ouTlaW 

the mass of the building. that means it only requires enough 

energy to raise the indoor temperature 15 to 20 degrees for a comfortable 

living climate. 

the south-facing glass wall of Koch’s house filters light into an 

80-foot-long living space that is bright and warm, even by the 

rear, tire-filled wall. glass bottles in the interior walls refract ambient 

light, while the aluminum cans reflect it, bouncing sunlight 

throughout the rooms. orange trees, dwarf giant bananas, parsley, 

pepper plants and concord grapes grow in his greenhouse. in addition 

to producing food, they filter the gray water created by daily 

living, which is then drained into a treatment and containment 

system for later use. 

reynolds believes these homes can be built anywhere on earth 

humans live. in the next year, he’ll bring earthships to guatemala, 

tierra del Fuego, sweden and mid-town Manhattan. 

“it keeps getting more and more exciting,” he says. “We’re building 

in more strange places around the globe and looking for more 

challenges.” 

Look for new Montana company Seven Directions getting into 

biotecture in 2013 

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123

gary lynn roberts, go with pride, 50”x 40” Featured artist at creighton block gallery. See story on p. 84

WINTeR 2013 - Explore Big Sky

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