SARAJEVO - In Your Pocket
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SARAJEVO - In Your Pocket
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
<strong>SARAJEVO</strong><br />
Enjoy your<br />
COMPLIMENTARY COPY<br />
of Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
N°1<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
Olympic City<br />
The host of the ‘84 Winter<br />
Games has reopened for<br />
business<br />
MESS Festival<br />
Sarajevo’s 49th <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Theatre Festival<br />
“<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>: A cheeky, well-<br />
written series of guidebooks.”<br />
The New York Times
E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S<br />
Contents<br />
Arriving in Sarajevo 5<br />
The Basics 6<br />
Food, history, language and more<br />
Culture & Events 11<br />
Sarajevo’s upcoming festivals<br />
Sports 15<br />
Where to stay 16<br />
Luxurious suites to backpacker haunts<br />
Dining & Nightlife 21<br />
Where to eat<br />
Vegetarians beware<br />
Cafés 24<br />
The city’s social centres<br />
Nightlife 25<br />
Be prepared to see sunrise<br />
Twisting Avaz Tower<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
‘Pigeon Square’ in Baščaršija<br />
Contents<br />
Sightseeing<br />
What to see 28<br />
Mosques, churches and synagogues, oh my!<br />
Around Sarajevo 29<br />
Visoko’s mysterious pyramids<br />
Getting around 33<br />
Local, domestic and international transport<br />
Mail, phones & internet 39<br />
Keep in touch<br />
Shopping 40<br />
The best of what and where to buy<br />
Directory 42<br />
Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
Street index 44<br />
City centre map 45<br />
City map 46<br />
Country map 48<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
3
4 foreWord<br />
The heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina is the capital Sarajevo,<br />
once a heart-broken, torn and demolished city it has risen<br />
above its recent history to once more welcome visitors with<br />
its centuries-old tradition of hospitality. This vibrant city can<br />
penetrate as deep into the traveller’s soul as it does for<br />
residents.<br />
With a population of about 400,000 Sarajevo makes full use of<br />
its abundance of bustling cafés, local eateries and handicraft<br />
shops. One of its unique features, something that has led to<br />
it being termed ‘the Jerusalem of Europe’, is its religiously<br />
diverse citizenry. <strong>In</strong>deed, few places on earth feature an<br />
Orthodox and a Catholic church, a mosque and a synagogue<br />
within walking distance of each other. A city with characteristics<br />
of the East (enriched by the Byzantine and Ottoman empires)<br />
and the West (the Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian<br />
empires), Sarajevo holds a central charm that visitors feel,<br />
encompassing the best of both worlds.<br />
The towering tree- and house-studded hilltops that connect to<br />
the Dinaric Alps surround the city in its valley setting, while the<br />
Miljacka River running through the centre provides a secluded,<br />
private and magical atmosphere. Just a few miles out of<br />
Sarajevo, the region’s largest and most popular mountains<br />
are crowded during the winter season with skiers and hikers<br />
coming from all over the country and abroad.<br />
The city itself encompasses four quarters: the old town<br />
(Baščaršija), the new town, the centre and New Sarajevo.<br />
Each district provides every traveller endless opportunities<br />
for relaxation, vigorous sightseeing and, above all, the unique<br />
experiences gained as you share this city with Sarajevo’s<br />
locals.<br />
Cover story<br />
E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
ESTV d.o.o.<br />
Bosnia and Herzegovina<br />
sarajevo@inyourpocket.com<br />
bihac@inyourpocket.com<br />
banjaluka@inyourpocket.com<br />
mostar@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1840-4901<br />
© ESTV d.o.o.<br />
Published 3 times per year<br />
20.000 copies<br />
Sarajevo has always been known for<br />
its fresh clean drinking water, and in<br />
previous centuries numerous fountains<br />
and Sebiljs - larger and more ornate<br />
kiosk-shaped fountains - could be found<br />
all over the city. Today, roughly one-tenth<br />
of the fountains remain, while the only<br />
Sebilj still standing is the one pictured<br />
here, which is located in Baščaršija.<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Yuri Barron<br />
Writers Yuri Barron, Ian Rohr,<br />
Christian Jennings<br />
Researcher Mersiha Drinjakovic,<br />
Emina Becic, Amra Usanovic<br />
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite<br />
Consulting Craig Turp<br />
Photos Dejan Vekic and John Roberts<br />
Maps Emir Haracic<br />
Management<br />
Directors Igor Blaha dipl.ecc<br />
& Niko Slavnic M.sc<br />
Executive Director: Zinaida Ilaria<br />
Tel.: + 387 61 144 310<br />
Marketing, PR and operations<br />
management:<br />
ZI Public Relations Consultancy<br />
Tel.: + 387 33 228 616<br />
Europe <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> guide right now to tie in with<br />
the 1150th aniversary of the city of Velikiy<br />
Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement<br />
in our next Russian guides and online at russia.<br />
inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now get<br />
your hands on Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> when<br />
visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team<br />
- who have successfully pocketed Slovenia and<br />
Bosnia - are now turning their attention to Italy,<br />
and to Venice.<br />
We welcome enquiries from anyone who would<br />
like to take part in our <strong>Pocket</strong> Revolution, either<br />
by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send<br />
us an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com.<br />
Copyright notice<br />
Text and photos copyright PIYP<br />
s.r.o. 2000-2006. Maps copyright<br />
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part<br />
of this publication may be reproduced<br />
in any form, except brief extracts for<br />
the purpose of review, without written<br />
permission from the publisher and<br />
copyright owner. The brand name <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> is used under license from UAB<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,<br />
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).<br />
Editor’s note<br />
The editorial content of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
guides is independent from paid-for<br />
advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />
clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />
readers‘ comments and suggestions.<br />
We have made every effort to ensure<br />
the accuracy of the information at the<br />
time of going to press and assume no<br />
responsibility for changes and errors.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
By bus<br />
Both of Sarajevo’s bus stations are busy places, especially<br />
the main one near the train station which serves the<br />
Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international<br />
destinations. If you arrive here you can get a tram (number<br />
1) or bus into the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6 KM.<br />
There is also an ATM here and a few cafés and bars nearby<br />
if the journey has been long, gruelling or both.If you are<br />
coming from or heading to a destination in the Republika<br />
Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will arrive at or<br />
depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo) bus station in<br />
east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes of the city and<br />
you can either get a taxi into town (about 25 KM) or a bus<br />
from the local terminal which is about a 200 metre walk from<br />
the station. Cash can be obtained from the machine at the<br />
nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage at this bus station is<br />
predominately in Cyrillic script. If you are getting a taxi to the<br />
bus station make sure your driver knows which one you want<br />
- you can do this by explaining your destination to him.<br />
By car<br />
Sarajevo’s roads are much improved from a few years ago<br />
but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increasing<br />
volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly<br />
straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but once<br />
in the heart of town non-local drivers need to contend with<br />
narrow streets, lots of one-way and ‘No Entry’ roads and the<br />
local drivers, who tend to be impatient behind the wheel and<br />
don’t mind using their horn to give a blast to anyone too slow<br />
to respond to a changed traffic signal.<br />
Those used to congested inner-cities won’t find it too much<br />
of a problem but the more hesitant may be best to leave the<br />
car parked at or near their hotel and use public transport,<br />
taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of which are<br />
less stressful and will give you the opportunity to see and<br />
experience a lot more than if you are gripping the wheel<br />
and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the problem of<br />
finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded centre. Drivers<br />
are required by law to have their headlights on at all times.<br />
This is mainly for safety reasons and when you enter one of<br />
Bosnia’s long tunnels you’ll be glad it is so. Another safety<br />
factor to bear in mind is that roads can be hazardous during<br />
the winters, with ice, fog and snow providing a challenge<br />
to all but the most experienced of mountainous terrain in<br />
winter drivers.<br />
By plane<br />
Sarajevo airport (<strong>In</strong>ternational Airport Butmir) is small and<br />
rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration<br />
and customs queues that plague many of Europe’s other<br />
capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports<br />
including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar<br />
and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular<br />
scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are<br />
to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a<br />
cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the<br />
12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (€10-12.50). As with all<br />
international airports, it’s not unheard of for taxi drivers to<br />
overcharge for a ride into town, especially if you’re a foreigner<br />
- make sure the metre is switched on before you depart.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
arriving in saraJevo<br />
Jahornina in autumn<br />
By train<br />
Bosnia’s rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the<br />
war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation. Most<br />
international visitors arriving by train will be coming from<br />
Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at 18:30<br />
and 6:25 respectively. There is also a train to and from Ploče<br />
on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth looking into<br />
as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sarajevo’s train<br />
station is right near the bus station and you can get into the<br />
heart of town via a bus, tram or 5-6 KM taxi ride. There is<br />
no ATM at the station but there is one about 200 metres<br />
away at the bus station - just turn right when you come out<br />
of the station, go around and past the main post office and<br />
the bus station is straight ahead.<br />
Tourist information<br />
S a r a j e v o C i t y<br />
Administration Hamdije<br />
Kreševljakovića 3, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 20 83 40, fax<br />
(+387) 33 20 83 41, grad@<br />
sarajevo.ba, www.sarajevo.<br />
ba, www.sarajevo-tourism.<br />
com. This agency provides<br />
travel-related information on<br />
Sarajevo and its vicinity to domestic and foreign visitors,<br />
as well as to domestic tour operators and their partner<br />
tourist agencies from abroad.<br />
Tourism Community of FB&H Branilaca<br />
Sarajeva, no 21/II, tel. (+387) 33 252 928, fax<br />
(+387) 33 252 901, media@tourism.ba, www.<br />
bhtourism.ba.<br />
Tourist Community for the Sarajevo District<br />
Branilaca Sarajeva 21/IV, tel. (+387) 33 25 02<br />
00/(+387) 33 25 02 02, fax (+387) 33 25 02<br />
04, tour.off@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevo-tourism.<br />
com. <strong>In</strong>fo point (airport): Open: 10-17h, Monday-<br />
Thursday, 12-17h Friday-Sunday QOpen , Mon, Tue,<br />
Wed, Thu 10:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
5
6 BasiCs<br />
Learn about the facts and figures, the habits and attitudes<br />
of people and a little bit of Bosanski for a full filling time in<br />
Sarajevo.<br />
Disabled travellers<br />
Bigger shopping centeres in the city offer disabled facilities,<br />
including toilets and so does the main post office in the centre<br />
of the city. Pedestrian crossings in the city have dropped<br />
kerbs, and large intersections in the centre are equipped<br />
with sound signalling systems. Most restaurants and cafés<br />
are inaccessible to disabled patrons, and hardly any offer<br />
toilet facilities for the disabled.<br />
Money & Exchange<br />
The Bosnian currency is the Convertible Mark (KM), which<br />
was introduced in 1998. Coins come in the following<br />
denominations: 0.05, 0.10 0.20, 0.50, 1, 2 and 5. Banknotes<br />
come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200. Since<br />
11 October 2001 the Convertible Mark has been tied to the<br />
Euro at a rate of €0.51129 = KM1<br />
You can change money at banks or any post office. The<br />
differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in<br />
Sarajevo will change travellers cheques, American Express,<br />
Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money<br />
transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office<br />
and most banks.<br />
You can find ATMs of the major banks present in the country<br />
all over the city. Cards widely acceptable in Sarajevo are<br />
VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Maestro, Diners Club<br />
and American Express. You can buy almost all goods and<br />
services with credit cards. You will need cash for green<br />
markets, some small shops and bars, kiosks, parking fees<br />
and taxis.<br />
Basic data<br />
Country’s population: 4,590,310 (July 2008) (48 %<br />
Bosniaks, 37.1 % Serbs, 14.3 % Croats and 0.6 % others)<br />
Sarajevo’s population: 402,000<br />
Surface: Total 51,209km2<br />
Longest river: Drina, 346km<br />
Highest mountain peak: Maglic, 2386m<br />
Land boundaries: 1,459<br />
Borders with adjoining country: Montenegro<br />
- 225km, Croatia - 932km, Serbia - 302km<br />
Politics:<br />
Bosnia and Herzegovina is an emerging federal democratic<br />
republic. The Council of Ministers of BiH is the<br />
head of government.<br />
Date of next local elections: General Elections in 2010.<br />
Members of the Presidency: Haris Silajdzic, Zeljko Komsic<br />
and Nebojsa Radmanovic<br />
Chairman of the Council of Ministers: Nikola Spiric<br />
Governing party: multi-party system<br />
Local time:<br />
Sarajevo is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1<br />
hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time.<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
Price Level<br />
McDonald’s Big Mac<br />
(There is no McDonald’s restaurant in Sarajevo or BiH<br />
for that matter)<br />
Loaf of white bread 0.90 KM<br />
Snickers bar 1 KM<br />
Litre of vodka 15 KM<br />
Bottle of local beer (1/2 liter) 1.15 KM<br />
Pack of Marlboros 3.30 KM<br />
Public transport ticket 1.80 KM<br />
Roll of Kodak 200 speed film,<br />
24 exposures 2 KM<br />
Security<br />
Touch wood, Sarajevo is a safe and secure city, a million<br />
miles away from its wartime past. Bosnian people are<br />
welcoming, friendly to and tolerant of foreigners - they’ve<br />
had thousands of them in their country for fifteen years - and<br />
it’s an engagingly safe place. Taxis are cheap, women walk<br />
home, the city-centre and environs are friendly and largely<br />
secure. Outside of some of its more deprived and isolated<br />
suburbs and quarters, Sarajevo is one of the safest cities in<br />
Europe. Obviously, normal, basic safety precautions should<br />
be observed, but, for instance, any fights in or outside pubs,<br />
bars and clubs are extremely rare.<br />
The occasional presence on the streets of Roma exploiting<br />
their children as begging accoutrements is an unavoidable<br />
let-down common everywhere in the region - except in Kosovo<br />
where they are still largely too afraid of violence to leave their<br />
settlements. Best not to give them money - it goes not to<br />
their well-being but their parents’ grubby pockets. And on the<br />
other end of the spectrum, the vibrant organized crime scene<br />
in Bosnia means that some real organized gang violence is<br />
mostly confined to the occasional shooting and car-bombing<br />
in the cities’ suburbs.<br />
Smoking<br />
<strong>In</strong> terms of smoking, it is safest, as with bars, to assume<br />
that everywhere you will visit in Sarajevo is a smoking zone,<br />
be it bars, restaurants, cafes, clubs or hotels, except where<br />
very strictly classified otherwise. This reviewer, for instance,<br />
once watched all three female staff at a health-club smoke<br />
while on-duty. A very high percentage of Bosnians smoke,<br />
both men and women, and a great deal of teenagers too.<br />
Despite vague and inaudible efforts to adhere to forthcoming<br />
EU policy once Bosnia eventually joins the Union, the idea of<br />
not being able to smoke anywhere in Bosnia would, rather<br />
nicely, be considered sacrilegious by much of its population.<br />
It is perfectly common to see people smoking in restaurants<br />
while others are eating at the same table, many people<br />
smoke half-way through a course, and the whole country is<br />
delightfully free of the smoking regulations so common in<br />
much of the rest of Europe and North America.<br />
National holidays<br />
January 1 - New Year, (all offices closed)<br />
March 1 - <strong>In</strong>dependence day (all offices closed - only in<br />
Federation of BiH)<br />
May 1 - <strong>In</strong>ternational Labor Day (all offices and majority<br />
of businesses closed)<br />
November 25 - National day (all offices closed)<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Tourists, back-packers, visitors and business travellers<br />
should be aware that this is a full-on smoking country, and<br />
that any complaints by outsiders about cigarette smoke<br />
and the perils thereof will be met with total derision and<br />
scornful laughter by both Bosnians and foreigners who<br />
live there.<br />
War<br />
Take a walk through the centre of Sarajevo, and even<br />
fifteen years after the war ended in 1995, bullet-holes,<br />
pockmarked pavements hit by mortar and artillery blasts,<br />
Language<br />
Pronunciation<br />
š as in ship<br />
č as in cello<br />
ž as in pleasure<br />
đ in jam<br />
dž as in enjoy<br />
Niceties & Necessities<br />
Yes - Da<br />
No - Ne<br />
Good - Dobro<br />
Please - Molim<br />
Thank you - Hvala<br />
Sorry! - Izvini<br />
Good morning - Dobro jutro<br />
Good day - Dobar dan<br />
Hello - Zdravo<br />
Good night - Laku noć<br />
Excuse me! - Oprostite<br />
How are you? - Kako si?<br />
Practicalities<br />
When? - Kada?<br />
Where? - Gdje?<br />
Who? - Ko?<br />
Why? - Zašto?<br />
I have... - Ja imam<br />
I am... - Ja sam<br />
What’s your name? - Kako se zoveš?<br />
My name is... - Zovem se<br />
I’m from... - Ja sam iz…<br />
...UK - Velike Britanije<br />
...USA - Sjedinjenih Američkih Država<br />
I don’t understand - Ne razumijem<br />
I don’t speak Bosnian - Ja ne govorim bosanski<br />
How much does this cost? - Koliko košta?<br />
Signs<br />
Open - Otvoreno<br />
Closed - Zatvoreno<br />
Entrance - Ulaz<br />
Exit - Izlaz<br />
Push - Gurni<br />
Pull - Vuci<br />
Numbers<br />
0 - nula 1 - edan<br />
2 - dva 3 - tri<br />
4 - četiri 5 - pet<br />
6 - šest 7 - sedam<br />
8 - osam 9 - devet<br />
10 - deset 20 - dvadeset<br />
50 - pedeset 100 - sto<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
BasiCs<br />
and the occasional shredded building that has not been<br />
renovated or demolished are all around you. Look down at<br />
the pavement when you walk: you’ll see many a familiar shape<br />
of a large ‘bears’ paw,’ the residue of an explosive mortar<br />
impact on the ground: fading, pink plastic has been poured<br />
into some of them to preserve the shape for posterity, sites<br />
that are known as ‘Sarajevo roses.’ The war in Bosnia saw<br />
100,000 people die, a million people displaced or turned<br />
into refugees before NATO troops, and massive international<br />
humanitarian intervention, flooded into Bosnia to try and<br />
re-construct the country after the Dayton Peace Accords<br />
were signed in 1995.<br />
Days<br />
Monday - ponedjeljak<br />
Tuesday - utorak<br />
Wednesday - srijeda<br />
Thursday - četvrtak<br />
Friday - petak<br />
Saturday - subota<br />
Sunday - nedjelja<br />
Months<br />
January - januar<br />
February - februar<br />
March - mart<br />
April - april<br />
May - maj<br />
June - juni<br />
July - juli<br />
August - avgust<br />
September - septembar<br />
October - oktobar<br />
November - novembar<br />
December - decembar<br />
Time<br />
Now - sada<br />
Later - kasnije<br />
Today - danas<br />
Tomorrow - sutra<br />
Yesterday - juče<br />
<strong>In</strong> the morning - ujutro<br />
<strong>In</strong> the afternoon - poslijepodne<br />
<strong>In</strong> the evening - naveče<br />
At night - noću<br />
Restaurant talk<br />
Waiter! - Konobar!<br />
A table for two - Sto za dvoje<br />
Non-smoking / smoking - nepušačka zona / pušačka<br />
zona<br />
The menu please - Meni/jelovnik, molim Vas<br />
I’d like to order - Želim da naručim<br />
Do you have vegetarian food? - Služite li vegetarijansku<br />
hranu?<br />
Surprise me! - Iznenadite me<br />
The bill, please - Račun, molim Vas<br />
Bar talk<br />
One coffee, please - Jednu kafu, molim Vas<br />
A beer, please - Pivo, molim Vas<br />
Cheers! - Živjeli!<br />
You have beautiful eyes - Imaš lijepe oči<br />
Can I have your number - Mogu li dobiti tvoj broj<br />
telefona?<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
7
8 BasiCs<br />
A word from the mayor<br />
Welcome to Sarajevo, a city of diversity and friendship.<br />
Throughout its history, Sarajevo has witnessed numeous<br />
changes. As a kind of a link between the East and<br />
the West, as a meeting place of different cultures, ideas<br />
and customs, Sarajevo has retained each sequence<br />
of its past, each mark of the times and rulers that<br />
walked these lands.<br />
A walk through the heart of the city simultaneaously<br />
becomes a walk through all the periods of the city’s<br />
existence. Every visitor can daydream about the sto-<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°4 - 400 lek<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
TIRANA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
ries dating back to the Ottoman Empire or Austrian<br />
rule. They can listen to the whisper of the past and<br />
perhaps one day personally talk about the warm,<br />
welcoming people and about a city where dreams and<br />
reality meet. This walk will open wide all the doors of<br />
the past, and every corner will tell its remarkable story,<br />
from the crowded streets to the silence and shade of<br />
Sarajevo’s gardens.<br />
The idea of publishing this type of guide dates back<br />
several years. The aim was to enable easier access to<br />
information required to take you through the diversity of<br />
the city of Sarajevo. The guide contains useful tips and<br />
directions to places of interest as well as an overview<br />
of the city scene. <strong>In</strong> order to realise the idea of the city<br />
guide a wait was required for the segments of the past<br />
and the present to join.<br />
Today Sarajevo is a continously expanding modern<br />
cosmopolitan centre where new and imposing buildings<br />
rise. Thanks to events such as the Sarajevo Film<br />
Festival, Jazz Festival and ‘Baščarškijske Noči’ Festival,<br />
Sarajevo has become an international metropolis of<br />
modern art and culture. To this day diversity, opposing<br />
views, innovative ideas, different cultures and<br />
generations, old and new architecture and old and<br />
new art flows all join up in Sarajevo. The citizens of<br />
Sarajevo create that distinct city feel and the key link<br />
enabling the harmonization of differences. However,<br />
Sarajevo does not belong to its citizens only but to all<br />
those who consider it their own and who visit it with<br />
good intentions.<br />
Dr Alija Behmen<br />
Get <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> before you go<br />
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WARSAW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
BELFAST<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Wilanów<br />
Explore the Polish<br />
Versailles<br />
Out of town<br />
Poland‘s top spa town:<br />
Nałęczów<br />
The Great<br />
Outdoors<br />
Cycling, skydiving and<br />
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Gastro Tourism<br />
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August - September 2006<br />
RIGA<br />
April - May 2006<br />
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Visiting the Bohemian<br />
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Hockey Fever<br />
Everything you need to<br />
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Floating the<br />
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Spree river tours<br />
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KRAKÓW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Tarnów<br />
Explore the Pearl of the<br />
Renaissance<br />
Leisure<br />
Getting active in Kraków
Bosnian Cuisine<br />
If you like meat, you’ll love Bosnia and Herzegovina.<br />
Meat is a standard for any meal. However, there is still<br />
lots of interesting meals you can make do if you are a<br />
vegetarian.<br />
A typical breakfast is very different from a traditional<br />
English, American or Australian breakfast, but they can<br />
be found in the occasional restaurant. Omlettes, hams,<br />
eggs and cheeses are very popular and can be found even<br />
in most places.<br />
For budget travelers the large supermarkets carry fruit<br />
yogurt, muesli, and juices and the open markets are<br />
always filled with fresh fruit. Bakeries open early and<br />
sell hot rolls, croissants, brown bread, apple and cherry<br />
strudles which you can take to a cafe and enjoy with a<br />
morning cappucino.<br />
All travellers should at some point enter a buregdzenica and<br />
try the famous traditional pita dishes of burek, zeljanica,<br />
sirnica, and krompirusa. They are all made from scratch<br />
and have been a traditional meal since Ottoman times.<br />
Burek is a meat pie wrapped in filo-dough. The zeljanica<br />
is made from spinach and cheese. Sirnica is made from a<br />
fresh, homemade cheese and krompirusa is diced potatoes<br />
with spices. Usually one portion (porcija) is enough to stuff<br />
you. A porcija costs between 2-3KM. They may ask if you<br />
like pavlaka spread on top. Pavlaka is a fresh cream that<br />
tastes wonderful with the pita. Thin yogurt is also a popular<br />
drink alongside your pita.<br />
Meat eating travellers should try out the wide range of<br />
available meats and should not miss the typical rostiljnica<br />
that serves up a range of grilled meats specialities.<br />
Whether chicken, beef, lamb, or pork, they come fresh from<br />
the mountainside. It is common practice here to raise all<br />
animals free range, and with no hormones or chemicals.<br />
Most people say they can taste the difference.<br />
Here is a list of the most popular traditional dishes:<br />
Cevapi small meat sausages of lamb and beef mix. They<br />
are usually served with fresh onions and pita bread on the<br />
side. Cevapi usually come in pointer finger size sausages<br />
and are offered by five or ten pieces.<br />
Teletina is veal, usually served in cutlets. Veal in BiH<br />
is not produced by locking calves in a cage to ensure<br />
softer meat.<br />
Jagnjetina lamb grilled over an open fire.<br />
Musaka a meat pie made of minced beef, very similar to<br />
shepherds pie.<br />
Filovane paprike fried peppers stuffed with minced meat<br />
and spices.<br />
Pršut air dried ham, similar to italian proscuitto.<br />
Sudžuk beef sausages with a similar form to pepperoni.<br />
Suho Meso dried meat, either beef or pork.<br />
Sarme meat and rice rolled in cabbage or grape leaves.<br />
‘Ispod Saca’ similar to a dutch oven. A metal dish is<br />
placed on hot coals, the food is placed in the dish and<br />
covered by a lid which is then completely covered in hot<br />
coals and left to bake.<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
Cevapi sa kajmakom<br />
BasiCs<br />
Cheeses are also prepared and strained in a variety of<br />
ways and are absolutely delicious. The vegetarian traveller<br />
will have a hell of a time getting through these which can<br />
ordered as a large starter or side dish in restaurants,<br />
bought in supermarkets or at the market where is has<br />
been freshly and naturally prepared.<br />
Travnicki a white, feta-like cheese from the Travnik district<br />
in central Bosnia. It is a bit salty and very popular with<br />
‘meze’, which is the tradition of slow drinking and eating<br />
throughout the course of a whole day.<br />
Vlašicki similar to travnicki cheese. It is a highland<br />
cheese from the mountain villages on Vlašic Mountain in<br />
central Bosnia.<br />
Livanjski is more similar to the dry yellow cheeses of<br />
Dalmatia. It is very tasty and usually more expensive than<br />
others. It originates from the west Bosnian town of Livno.<br />
Mladi Sir literally means young cheese. There isn’t an<br />
equivalent to it in English. It has a soft texture and is<br />
unsalted. Often times it is served with a cream sauce on<br />
top. It is very healthy.<br />
Kajmak is the most difficult of all cheeses to translate.<br />
It is the top layer skimmed from milk, it is creamy and<br />
extremely tasty. Kajmak and ustipak (doughnut type roll)<br />
is a wonderful appetizer.<br />
Iz mjeha sheep milk poured into a specially sewn sheep<br />
skin ‘bag.’ After a time the dry cheese is taken out of the<br />
skin container and the result is a strong, dry cheese that<br />
resembles real parmesan.<br />
<strong>In</strong>at Kuća is a great place to sample traditional Bosnian fare<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
9
10 history<br />
Sarajevo is the administrative and cultural capital of<br />
Bosnia and Herzegovina. Situated at the far southern<br />
end of the Dinaric Alps, it lies between the mountains of<br />
Romanija, Bjelašnica, Igman and Trebević, and through it<br />
flows the narrow, shallow Miljacka River, which rises close<br />
to Pale, five miles due east of the city.<br />
First Settlements<br />
Sarajevo is stretched across an area known as Sarajevo<br />
Field, and there are numerous archeological findings<br />
attesting to settlements in this area dating back to the<br />
Neolithic period, as well as records that point to a significant<br />
Ilyiran presence in the area. A primary Neolithic site was<br />
found at Butmir, outside Sarajevo. Ilyrian tribes flourished<br />
in the region from about 1,000 BC until their final conquest<br />
by the Romans around 9AD. For the Romans, with their<br />
aggressive, commercially-oriented and warlike policy of<br />
spreading the Pax Romana, the mountainous country that<br />
lay just next door to them became a source of mineral wealth,<br />
particularly silver.<br />
Spread of Christianity<br />
Between 6-800 AD arrived the Slavs, there was widespread<br />
conversion to Christianity, and the next five hundred years saw<br />
Bosnia at the focal point of influence through varying periods<br />
of conquest, control and administration by Serbs, Hungarians,<br />
Byzantines and Croats. The medieval town of Hodidjed was<br />
located in the vicinity of today’s Sarajevo; however, the actual<br />
name of the city, which comes from the Turkish words saray<br />
and ovasi, meaning ‘court’ and ‘field’ respectively, indicates<br />
that Sarajevo is a creation of the Ottoman Empire.<br />
The Ottomans<br />
Bosnia had starting emerging as an independent state since<br />
the mid-1100s, and became a kingdom under King Tvrtko<br />
the 1st in 1377, just as the Turks started their foray into the<br />
country, presaging the Ottoman invasion which took place<br />
between 1430 to 1592, when the last town in Bosnia - Bihac<br />
- fell into Turkish hands. The country was now part of the<br />
Ottoman Empire, and just in case there was any question<br />
that the country’s religious mix of Orthodox, Christianity and<br />
the indigenous Bosnian church was not sufficient, Islam<br />
joined the fray. Sarajevo became one of the most powerful<br />
cities in the Turks’ new frontier territories, and although the<br />
capital moved twice, to Banja Luka and Travnik, Sarajevo<br />
remained the nerve-centre.<br />
Sarajevo was founded in the mid 15th century by the Ottoman<br />
governor of Bosnia - Isa-bey Ishakovic - to house the area’s<br />
Ottoman government. Anyone strolling through Sarajevo will<br />
easily notice the city’s three distinct parts, each of which are<br />
reflective of the historical period in which it was built. The<br />
initial expansion of the city occurred during the first 150 years<br />
or so of Ottoman rule. Many of the city’s architectural gems<br />
were built during this period, such as Gazi Husrev Bey’s and<br />
The Emperor’s Mosques. Baščaršija - the city’s once-great<br />
bazaar - was also constructed during the same period. By<br />
the beginning of the 17th century, Sarajevo grew into a<br />
vibrant community of artisans and an important merchant<br />
trading post, as well as one of the most significant cities in<br />
the European part of the Ottoman Empire. <strong>In</strong> 1697 Sarajevo<br />
was attacked and burnt by Prince Eugene of Savoy, the final<br />
of series of unremitting attacks by the Hapsburgs and the<br />
Venetians. The Ottomans moved the capital to Travnik, and<br />
Sarajevo started to refuse to accept governors sent from<br />
Istanbul. This independent, self-determining and occasionally<br />
bloody-mindedness of spirit was to become a core feature of<br />
the city’s identity, most recently surfacing during the four-year<br />
siege of the city from 1992-1995.<br />
Austro-Hungarian Rule<br />
The city’s second architectural expansion started following<br />
the Austro-Hungarian occupation in the late 19th century<br />
and lasted until the beginning of World War I in 1914, after<br />
the 1878 treaty of Berlin gave the Austro-Hungarian Empire<br />
a mandate to administer Bosnia. The city was modernized<br />
during this period. Austro-Hungarians established the city’s<br />
first public transportation system and the first telephone lines.<br />
Many cultural and educational institutions were founded in this<br />
period as well. The National (Land) Museum, the First Sheriate<br />
Law High School and the National Theatre. Sarajevo City Hall,<br />
Ashkenazi Synagogue, and Catholic Cathedral were also added<br />
to the expanding city. The growth of Sarajevo was interrupted<br />
on June 28, 1914 when Gavrilo Princip assassinated Austro-<br />
Hungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophia<br />
during their visit to Sarajevo, setting off the chain of events<br />
that led to the start of World War I.<br />
Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes<br />
Following the Treaty of Versailles in 1918 that ended World<br />
War I, Sarajevo, along with Bosnia and Herzegovina, became<br />
a part of the newly-formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and<br />
Slovenes. It remained within the later-renamed Kingdom<br />
of Yugoslavia until the beginning of World War II, when the<br />
monarchy was abolished and, following the end of the war,<br />
the new socialist Yugoslavia was created.<br />
Yugoslavia and Socialism<br />
The general plan for development of Sarajevo was adopted<br />
in 1945, and the city that suffered tremendous losses during<br />
World War II under the Germans expanded. German occupation<br />
had started in 1941, and Bosnia was assimilated into an<br />
atrocious Croatian Ustasha nationalist entity, where multiple<br />
atrocities were carried out, particularly against Serbs, many<br />
of which took place at the notorious Jasenovac concentration<br />
camp south of Zagreb where between 50-70,000 people,<br />
mainly Serbs, were slaughtered. <strong>In</strong> 1943 Josep Brod Tito,<br />
leading the Bosnian partisans on covert operations in the<br />
mountain fastnesses of the centre of the country, established<br />
the basis of the post-war Yugoslavia, of which Bosnia would<br />
be one of six republics. Subsequent to the war, Sarajevo was<br />
not only rebuilt but considerably expanded as well. It almost<br />
tripled in size during its third expansion which took place during<br />
the formative years of socialist Yugoslavia. By 1984, when the<br />
city hosted the 14th Winter Olympic Games, Sarajevo was a<br />
modern capital city of around 500,000 people.<br />
Looking Back<br />
Talk to Bosnians about the Tito era, and it is fondly<br />
remembered as a halcyon period set in a kind of aspic of<br />
nostalgia, of benevolent socialism, when everybody had a<br />
car, a state apartment, holidays on the coast every year,<br />
and life was a given. Yes and no, is the answer. The dream<br />
was founded on political repression and kept alive by wildly<br />
unrealistic economic planning and strategies, based on much<br />
heavy foreign borrowing. But for most people, it functioned,<br />
Tito kept nationalism at bay, and the country appeared to<br />
prosper. It was during this period that Sarajevo developed a<br />
reputation as something of a cultural centre, a party town,<br />
and acquired the rather clichéd adjective that is so often used<br />
to describe it: cosmopolitan. But it was a tougher, fiercely<br />
independent and more gutsy series of characteristics that<br />
was to carry it through the years of the 1992-1995 war.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Sarajevo brims with an affordable and diverse cultural life.<br />
It is proudly host to the Sarajevo Film Festival, which in fact<br />
in one of the most important in south eastern Europe. Festivals,<br />
performances, concerts and events are happening<br />
in and around town almost all the time so be sure to keep<br />
an eye (or an ear) out for some cultural entertainment.<br />
Music events<br />
Terminal Festival - electronic music<br />
Various venues<br />
9 - 12 October 2009<br />
Hladno Piva<br />
Dom Mladih, Skenderija<br />
23 October<br />
French Hardcore Night<br />
Klub AG<br />
27 October<br />
Concierto de Aranjuez by J. Rodrigo<br />
National Theatre<br />
30 October<br />
Halloween with Lutzenkirchen<br />
Skenderija<br />
31 October 2009<br />
Anouar Brahem<br />
Bosnian Cultural Centre<br />
4 November 2009<br />
S.A.R.S.<br />
Coloseum Club<br />
7 November<br />
Analena<br />
OKC Abrasevic<br />
4 December<br />
Analena<br />
Access Club<br />
5 December<br />
Sarajevo Jazz Fest<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
Culture & events<br />
Vrooom<br />
City Pub<br />
9 December 2009<br />
Festivals<br />
Agro Food Skenderija Centre, tel. (+387) 33 21 73<br />
27. Sarajevo’s inaugural eco-food fair runs from 18 - 21<br />
December, and includes tastings and competitions as well<br />
as various lectures, conferences and round-table discussion<br />
with participants from Bosnia and abroad.<br />
Baščaršijske Noći Dalmatinska 2/1, tel. (+387)<br />
33 20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 72, fax (+387) 33<br />
207 921, sarajevoart@bih.net.ba, www.bascarsijskenoci.ba.<br />
“Baščaršija Nights” is the traditional<br />
summer festival that takes place each year for the entire<br />
month of July on Sarajevo’s streets, squares, theaters,<br />
and galleries. The festival offers ballets and theater<br />
performances, exhibits, concerts of popular and classical<br />
music, and special programs for children and youth.<br />
Q Free admission.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Theater Festival (MESS) B-3, Maršala<br />
Tita 54/1, tel. (+387) 33 20 03 92/(+387) 33 21 19 72,<br />
fax (+387) 33 21 19 72, mess@mess.ba, www.mess.<br />
ba. The <strong>In</strong>ternational Theater Festival (MESS) has been held<br />
since the 1960s. The event attracts various international<br />
theatre groups as well as some of the most prestigious<br />
names of theatre. MESS is the perfect opportunity to watch<br />
masterpieces of performing arts at a low price, and usually<br />
without advance reservations. This year it runs from 16 - 27<br />
October, and will feature 26 performances by ensembles from<br />
14 countries. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Sarajevo Film Festival B-4, Zelenih Beretki 12/I,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 22 15 16, fax (+387) 33 26 33 81,<br />
info-sff@sff.ba, www.sff.ba. The Sarajevo Film Festival<br />
(SFF) is the most prestigious film festival in south eastern<br />
Europe, and aims to support and promote the art of film<br />
within the region. The festival has a distinctly international<br />
character and seems to have increased in both scale and<br />
notoriety each year since it was first held in 1995. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Poštanski Pretinac 600, tel. (+387) 33 55 04 80/(+387) 61 26 71 14, fax (+387) 33 55 04 81, info@jazzfest.<br />
ba, www.jazzfest.ba. The international music festival Jazz Fest has been held since 1996. Every year Jazz Fest hosts<br />
some of the most prestigious jazz musicians from around the world. If you are in Sarajevo in November, don’t miss it.<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
11
12 Culture & events<br />
La Boheme at the National Theatre<br />
Sarajevska Zima (Sarajevo Winter) Maršala Tita 9a,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 20 79 45/(+387) 33 20 79 48, fax (+387)<br />
33 20 79 48, ibrosa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevskazima.<br />
ba. Sarajevo Winter has become a traditional gathering of artists<br />
from all over the world ever since it was first held in 1984<br />
during the XIV Winter Olympic Games. The program features<br />
concerts, exibitions in galleries and museums, theater plays.<br />
There is something for everyone.<br />
Cinemas<br />
Apolo Mis Irbina 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 52 01.<br />
Multiplex Cinema City Titova 26, tel. (+387) 33<br />
228 008, fax. (+387) 33 228 008, info@cinemacity.<br />
ba, www.cinemacity.ba<br />
Unitic Fra Anđela Zvizdovića 1, tel. (+387) 33 29 50<br />
01. QOpen 18:00 - 20:30.<br />
Concert Halls<br />
Sarajevo Arts Agency Dalmatinska 2/I, tel. (+387) 33<br />
20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 21, fax (+387) 33 20 79 72,<br />
koncagsa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevoarts.ba. The Sarajevo<br />
Arts Agency organises a variety of concerts and festivals around<br />
Sarajevo and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina.<br />
Sarajevo Philharmonic B-4, Obala Kulina 9, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 66 65 19/(+387) 33 66 65 20, fax (+387)<br />
33 66 65 21. The Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra is able<br />
to trace its roots back to before World War I, when serious<br />
musicians in the region were engaged in military instrumental<br />
music and other ensembles such as the Military Music<br />
Orchestra, the Student Orchestra of the Great Gymnasium<br />
of Sarajevo, the Musical Choir for Violins, of the Serbian vocal<br />
association “Sloga”, and Mannergesangverein, a musical<br />
society comprised of Austrian officials.<br />
Culture Centres<br />
British Council Ljubljanska 9, tel. (+387) 33 250 220,<br />
fax (+387) 33 250 240, British.Council@britishcouncil.<br />
ba, www.britishcouncil.ba. The British Council is the UK’s<br />
leading international organisation for educational and cultural<br />
relations. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Fri 08:30 - 15:30. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. <strong>In</strong>formation Centre:<br />
Opening Times are from 12:00 - 17:00.<br />
Centre Andre Malraux Mula Mustafe Bašeskije<br />
8, tel. (+387) 33 206 889, fax (+387) 33 668 605,<br />
malraux@bih.net.ba, www.malraux.ba. A French cultural<br />
centre based in Sarajevo. Library and information available<br />
for French speaking expatriates. French lessons for locals.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. The<br />
Library has different opening times:<br />
Monday, Wednesday, Friday: 10:00-18:00h<br />
Tuesday and Thursday: 14:00-18:00h<br />
Culture Department of the Spanish Embassy<br />
Čekaluša 14, tel. (+387) 33 223 331/(+387) 33 278<br />
560, fax (+387) 33 278 582, ofcult@bih.net.ba. Part<br />
of the Spanish Embassy, the cultural department organizes<br />
events related to Spanish and Latin American culture. Ask<br />
here also for Spanish language courses. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 13:00 & 15:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Goethe <strong>In</strong>stitut B-5, Bentbaša 1a, tel. (+387) 33 570<br />
000, fax (+387) 33 570 030, info@sarajevo.goethe.<br />
org, www.goethe.de/sarajevo. The cultural centre from<br />
Germany organizes german language courses, exhibitions,<br />
concerts and so on relating to German culture. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Islamic Republic of Iran Culture Centre Ferhadija 2, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 711 055. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Turkish Cultural <strong>In</strong>formation Centre B-4, Mula<br />
Mustafe Bašeskije do 31, tel. (+387) 33 271 150.<br />
Movies on Tuesdays at 17:00 (English subtitles). QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Galleries<br />
Collegium Artisticum A-2, Terezije bb (Centar Skenderija),<br />
tel. (+387) 33 270 750/(+387) 33 204 352,<br />
fax (+387) 33 270 751, cagalerija@open.net.ba, www.<br />
collegium.ba. Formed in 1975, Collegium Artisticum provided<br />
a gallery and meeting place for the nation’s three premier<br />
art associations. Operating throughout the war years, the<br />
Collegium remains a gathering venue for many of the city’s<br />
artists and intellectuals and has been involved in a range of<br />
cultural programmes that cover the arts in all their forms.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Galerija 10m² ((Camille Laurelli)) B-4, Stakleni<br />
Grad, Ferhadija 17, tel. (+387) 63 95 21 97/(+387) 61<br />
917 037. Q Thu-Sun 14:00-19:00, closed Mon-Wed<br />
Retrospectrum B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8, tel. (+387) 33<br />
266 550, fax (+387) 33 664 162, ugbih@yahoo.com.<br />
Q Tue-Sat 12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon<br />
Theatres<br />
Sarajevo Youth Theatre B-3, Kulovića 8, tel. (+387)<br />
33 44 25 72, fax (+387) 33 20 57 99, pozmladi@bih.<br />
net.ba, www.pozoristemladih.ba. Formed in 1997, the<br />
Sarajevo Youth Theatre was the result of a merger between<br />
two other theatre groups for young people that had been in<br />
existence since 1950. It has won numerous accolades and<br />
awards and some of its members have gone to become<br />
amongstBosnia’s best-known performers. As their website<br />
says, ‘Sarajevo’s Youth Theatre has been and has remained<br />
a theatre for all generations.’<br />
SARTR (Sarajevo War Theatre) Ćemaluša 1,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 66 40 70. Often performing for beer<br />
and cigarettes during the siege, when most artists and<br />
performers had fled the city, these days the Sarajevo<br />
War Theatre (SARTR) is a successful professional theatre<br />
company with an international reputation. During the war the<br />
company gave over 2000 performances, often in the most<br />
difficult of conditions, as part of the ‘theatre against death’<br />
motive that lay at the heart of its formation and existence.<br />
The National Theatre B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 9, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 22 16 82/(+387) 33 66 36 47, fax (+387) 33<br />
44 51 38, npsa@bih.net.ba, www.nps.ba. The National<br />
Theatre of Sarajevo has been performing both in Bosnia and<br />
abroad since its founding in 1921. During the last 85 + years<br />
its performers, directors, choreographers and other staff have<br />
won great acclaim and numerous awards. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 12:00 & 16:00 - 19:30. Tickets: €2.50-5.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
Culture & events<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
13
14 Culture & events<br />
INTERNATIONAL THEATER FESTIVAL<br />
MESS - <strong>SARAJEVO</strong><br />
Sarajevo is a city of a long theatre tradition and culture, and MESS Festival (Small and Experimental Stages), was one<br />
of the best theatre events in the territory of the former Yugoslavia. The MESS Festival forty nine years of its existence<br />
undoubtedly promoted modern theatre expression. Since 1960, the year when the Festival was established, numerous<br />
ensembles from almost all the world’s major theatre centers (Warsaw, Paris, New York, Moscow, Zurich, Bologna,<br />
Bucharest, Budapest…) have taken part in it.<br />
As it was impossible to organize an <strong>In</strong>ternational Theatre Festival during the siege of the City, in 1993 the <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Theatre and Film Festival started presentations and productions of artistic programs whose aim was, under the siege<br />
conditions, to contribute to the cultural life in Sarajevo, international reputation of the city, to the establishment and<br />
development of international cooperation. Culture as a fundamental human need was used as one of the ways to break<br />
up to the siege, to maintain life, to cherish quality… Within its activities, the MESS organized the First <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Film Festival in 1993, which was estimated to have been the most important event in 1993, then the Festival of the<br />
Sarajevo Alternative Scene. The theatre production was also continued so that from 1993 to the end of the siege ten<br />
performances were produced, among which there were “Waiting for Godot” directed by Susan Sontag, “Alcestis” ,<br />
“Silk Drums”, “<strong>In</strong> the Country of Last Things”, “Golden Eternal Braid” directed by Haris Pašović, “Circus” directed by<br />
Peter Schumann. <strong>In</strong> 1994 the Sarajevo Festival Ensemble, as part of the MESS Festival, with two of its performances<br />
did its large tour of Europe, organized by Peter Brook Theatre, Bouffes du Nord (Paris), playing on the stages of Paris,<br />
Amsterdam, Geneva, Berlin… The MESS also organized a multimedia festival “Baby Universe” (the summer of ’94)<br />
and a large project Memory Module (’96) under which published were the translations of Paul Auster’s books, Claude<br />
Lanzmann’s “Shoah”, and presented was the series of “Mahabharata”, held were concerts and exhibitions…<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1997, the Festival was resumed. <strong>In</strong>ter alia the following were presented: Volksbühne am Rosa Luxemburg Platz<br />
Theater, Stary Teatr, Picollo Theater, Theatre des Bouffes du Nord, Centre Choregraphique National D’Orleans, Living<br />
Theatre, Divadlo Komedie, Theater Lliure, Rosas Company, Theater A.D. Ruhr, The Moving House Theater Company,<br />
Meno Fortas Theatre Company, Schaubuehne am Lehniner Platz, schauspielhannover, staatsoperhannover, Moskovskii<br />
Teatr Yunogo Zritelya, Katona Jozsef Színház, Le Volcan – Scène Nationale du Havre, Pandur Theatres, State Academic<br />
Drama Theater named T. Shevchenko, Centre for Theatre Practices “Gardzienice”, Teatro delle Albe, Les Ballets C. de<br />
la B., Footsbarn Theatre, Oskaro Koršunovo Teatras, National Theatre Ivan Vazov, Betty Nansen Teatret, Complicite,<br />
Kretakor Szinhaz… And directors and actors such as Eugenio Baraba, Frank Castorf, Giorgio Strehler, Josef Nadj,<br />
Ariel Garcia Valdes, Phillipe Adrien, Rudi Häusermann, Roberto Ciulli, Anne Teresa de Keersmaker, Paolo Magelli,<br />
Eimuntas Nekrosius, Thomas Ostermeier, Wlodzimierz Staniewski, Mark Tompkins, Pippo Delbono, Olivier Py, Sidi<br />
Larbi Cherkaoui, Mark Tompkins, Alexandar Morfov, Oskaras Koršunovas, Luc Dunberry, Robert Wilson, Simon<br />
McBurney, Arpad Schilling, Nicolas Stemann, Marco Martinelli, Peter Brook, Kama Ginkas, Tomaž Pandur, Rodrigo<br />
Garcia, Andriy Zholdak…<br />
Unrestrained theatre play and specific theatre expression established themselves as the Festival aesthetic and ethical<br />
postulates. This means that the Festival is open for contemporary trends in the world theatre (and exchange with it)<br />
without the narrowing of horizons of understanding the theatre language, respecting the freedom of author’s concept<br />
and system, his attitude to “old” and “new” forms of expression and content. Therefore, the Festival aspires to be an<br />
annual review of the most interesting theatre achievements, professional theatres, theatre companies, ensembles<br />
projects conceived and carried out throughout the world the quality of which is professionally recognized.<br />
The Festival also has a production character... During the Festival, symposiums will be held and they will also have<br />
international character with the participation of critics, theatre analysts, drama artists and writers. During their stay,<br />
many outstanding guests will visit faculties, conduct workshops and creative activities.<br />
The realisation of the 49th <strong>In</strong>ternational Theater Festival MESS Sarajevo has started already. As usual, the MESS Festival<br />
will be held from 16 - 26 October on the all theater stages of Sarajevo, Zenica, but Gorazde and Srebrenica, too.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Paragliding on Jahorina<br />
Extreme Sports<br />
Scorpio Extreme Sports Club Tel. (+387) 61 60<br />
81 30/+387 61 78 81 05, info@scorpio.ba, www.<br />
scorpio.ba.<br />
Fitness Centres<br />
Club Fighter Branilaca Dobrinje 4a, tel. (+387) 61 23<br />
11 29, fighter@bih.net.ba, clubfighter.net.<br />
Dino company B-3, Mis Irbina 10, tel. (+387) 61 55 07<br />
80/(+387) 61 55 07 81, dino.company@gmail.com.<br />
Fitness Centre Body Art B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipašina<br />
bb, Zetra, tel. (+387) 33 276 123.<br />
Hotel Green Ustanicka bb, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 63 97<br />
01, greenp@bih.net.ba, www.green.co.ba.<br />
L.A. Lifetime Fitness Dzemala BIjedica 166a,<br />
tel. (+387) 61 10 94 32, info@lafitness.ba, www.<br />
lafitness.ba.<br />
Triumph Sports for Kids Semira Fraste 13, tel.<br />
(+387) 61 01 84 82.<br />
Youth House Džemala Bijedića bb, tel. +387 33<br />
660 519, centar@youthhousesarajevo.ba, www.<br />
youthhousesarajevo.ba.<br />
Paintball<br />
Patinball CKP B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipašina bb, Zetra,<br />
tel. (+387) 62 12 22 26, fax ((+387) 33 55 49 06, int@<br />
ckp.ba, ckp.ba.<br />
Stadiums & Arenas<br />
CSC Ilidža Mala Aleja 67, Ilidža, tel. +387 33 63<br />
65 14.<br />
CSC Skenderija A-2, Terezije bb, tel. (+387) 33 20 11<br />
93, sport@skenderija.ba, http://www.skenderija.ba.<br />
Grbavica Stadium Zvornička 27, tel. (+387) 33 71<br />
52 01.<br />
Koševo Stadium D-2, Patriotske lige 35, tel. (+387)<br />
33 26 87 61.<br />
Ramiz Salčin Hall Semira Frašte bb, tel. (+387) 33<br />
77 75 90.<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
sPorts & aCtivities<br />
Swimming Pools<br />
Termalna Rivijera Butmirska cesta 18, Ilidža, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 771 000, fax (+387) 33 771 010, info@<br />
terme-ilidza.ba, www.terme-ilidza.ba. Large water park<br />
in Ilidža. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Pools: 9.00 a.m. - 9.00<br />
p.mTropical garden: 8.00 a.m. - 10.00 p.m. Admission:<br />
KM 9-17. PTAFLGBKC<br />
Tennis<br />
Tennis Centre Stup Nikole Šopa 217 (Bojnička bb),<br />
tel. (+387) 33 468 231/(+387) 33 457 286, contact@<br />
tcs.ba, www.tcs.ba. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.<br />
Tennis Head Akademija Donji Hotonj II/B, tel. (+387)<br />
33 482 416/(+387) 61 172 894, fax (+387) 33 482<br />
415, info@headakademija.ba, www.headakademija.<br />
ba.<br />
Hiking<br />
Hotel Termag Poljice<br />
bb, Jahorina, tel.<br />
(+387) 57 27 04 22,<br />
w w w.termaghotel.<br />
com. The hills around<br />
Sarajevo are alive with<br />
the sounds of a range<br />
of outdoor activities<br />
throughout most of the<br />
year. Well-known for<br />
winter sports, the region<br />
also offers plenty<br />
to do in the warmer<br />
months, including hiking<br />
and biking through<br />
the beautiful Bosnian<br />
mountains. The Hotel Termag, the big place situated<br />
on the slopes of Jahorina, offers a range of activities for<br />
guests or day visitors. <strong>In</strong> summer, mountain and quad<br />
bikes can be hired or you can give paragliding a go to<br />
get a bird’s eye view of a bit of Bosnia. During the winter<br />
there are ski and snowboarding classes and the hotel<br />
also boasts its own ice rink. And, if that all sounds way<br />
too active, the coffee shop and bar is a great place from<br />
which to watch others exercising.<br />
Skakavac If you fancy wandering to a waterfall make<br />
the hike up to Skakavac, just north of the city. The falls<br />
themselves are a pretty sight and the wander through<br />
the woods has a forest fairytale feel to it. You can drive<br />
much of the way, or walk the five or so kilometres up<br />
from the last bus stop in Nahoreva village, or go as far<br />
as the taxi driver will take you once the road turns to dirt<br />
and tramp the rest of the way. The turn-off to the falls<br />
is clearly marked and the path well-trodden. If you want<br />
refreshment it’s recommended you drop into Dragan’s.<br />
This rustic restaurant is located on the right hand side of<br />
the road just before the timber archway. It’s very much a<br />
‘what’s going is what you get’ place and since what’s going<br />
is basic but delicious local food and a terrific atmosphere<br />
a brief stop can easily turn into an overnight stay (simple<br />
accommodation - as in Dragan will throw you a blanket<br />
and pillow and direct you towards the loft - is available),<br />
or mark the first of many return visits.<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
15
16 Where to stay<br />
Accommodation in Sarajevo is readily available for the<br />
traveling weary businessman or backpacker. You will have<br />
no problem finding a luxurious room in a hotel or a cheap<br />
hostel or B&B with the following selection.<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Casino H Conference facilities<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet G Non-smoking rooms<br />
K Restaurant J Old town location<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />
Upmarket<br />
Central B-4, Ćumurija 8, tel. (+387) 33 56 18 00,<br />
info@hotelcentral.ba, westwood.ba. More of a luxury<br />
fitness centre and spa than a hotel - a member of staff once<br />
quantified it for us as an 85/15 split in favour of the former<br />
- this West Wood-managed venture occupies a beautifullyrestored<br />
old building in the city centre. The gym is packed<br />
with state-of-the-art equipment, while the colonnaded pool<br />
is reminiscent of Justinian’s Cistern. The 15 rooms upstairs<br />
are expectedly lavish, although strangely enough for such<br />
an upmarket location some only have small skylights rather<br />
than actual windows. Q 15 rooms (single KM200, doubles<br />
KM240, suite KM300). PJAFKDCW<br />
City Boutique B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 2,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 566 850, info@cityhotel.ba, www.<br />
cityhotel.ba. Only opened in August, this is the newest<br />
addition to Sarajevo’s upmarket accommodation field.<br />
Situated halfway between Baščaršija and the BBI shopping<br />
complex, virtuallyevery place of interest in the city centre<br />
is only a few minutes walk away. The modern façade<br />
stands in stark contrast to neighbouring buildings, and<br />
while the interior design is not quite modern minimalist<br />
you do get the impression that you’ve jumped at least a<br />
few years into the future. If you’re staying for any length of<br />
time definitely consider upgrading to the deluxe rooms or<br />
smaller apartments - they offer significantly more space<br />
and the price difference is negligible. Q 19 rooms (singles<br />
€90-100, doubles €100-110, apartments €130-150).<br />
PJARLW<br />
Europe B-4, Vladislava Skarića 5, tel. (+387) 33<br />
580 400/(+387) 33 580 500, fax (+387) 33 580<br />
580, reception@hoteleurope.ba, www.hoteleurope.<br />
ba. Located in the heart of Old Sarajevo, the hotel was<br />
first established back in 1882 and reopened earlier this<br />
year after an extensive make-over. A modern wing has<br />
been cleaved onto the eastern side of the original Austro-<br />
Hungarian structure giving the façade a somewhat bipolar<br />
appearance, but the interior is about as luxurious as you’re<br />
likely to find anywhere in the city. The spacious rooms are<br />
exceedingly comfortable and many offer spectacular views<br />
of the surrounding Baščaršija area. Add to all this the 30%<br />
discount they’re offering until the end of the year and the<br />
place is downright cheap. Q 160 rooms (singles €92-143,<br />
doubles €123-179, apartments €230) All rooms 30% off<br />
until the end of 2009.. PJHARFLBKCW<br />
Hecco De Luxe B-4, Ferhadija 2, tel. (+387) 33<br />
55 99 95, fax (+387) 33 55 89 95, heccodeluxe@<br />
gmail.com, www.heccodeluxe.com. This restaurant<br />
and series of small hotel apartments has just been built<br />
on the very top of the JAT tower: a rickety, old apartment<br />
block sitting at the junction of Ferhadija and Marshal Tito<br />
streets, overlooking the Eternal Flame memorial to the dead<br />
partisans of World War Two. Q (singles €100, doubles €130).<br />
PTYJHAULGBKXW<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n B-1, B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387)<br />
33 28 80 00, fax (+387) 33 66 38 62, reservation@<br />
holiday-inn.ba, www.holiday-inn.com/sarajevo.<br />
Oh dear. The iconic wartime days of Sarajevo’s famous<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n, bullet-riddled and holding out to the last,<br />
filled with war-correspondents and gritty hotel staff<br />
existing on the edge, are sadly long gone. Apart from<br />
nice mushrooms at breakfast, some charming staff and<br />
faded memories, this overpriced, uncomfortable and<br />
architecturally hideous hotel has few redeeming features<br />
anymore. Q 220 rooms (singles €100, doubles €150).<br />
PTYJHA6UIFLGBKXW<br />
Radon Plaza Džemala Bijedica 185, tel. (+387) 33 75<br />
29 00/(+387) 33 75 29 06, fax (+387) 33 75 29 01,<br />
booking@radonplazahotel.ba, www.radonplazahotel.<br />
ba. This glistening five-star tower owned by the Avaz<br />
business group is Sarajevo’s first full-functional five-star<br />
hotel. It’s set way out of the centre of town, but if you<br />
are there for business it’s perfect. There are 112 rooms,<br />
conference centres, a spa, a swimming-pool, internet<br />
connection everywhere, a revolving restaurant, supremely<br />
comfortable rooms and 24-hour room-service - in short,<br />
everything one would expect. And it’s not that much<br />
more expensive than more prosaic city-centre joints. Q<br />
122 rooms (singles €105, doubles €170, 3 suites €245).<br />
PTHAUFLEGBKDXCW<br />
Ornate Bosnian woodwork<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
18 Where to stay<br />
Sarajevo Džemala Bijedica 169 A, tel. (+387) 33 777<br />
900, fax (+387) 33 473 043, info@sarajevohotel.ba,<br />
sarajevohotel.ba. Aside from an almost surreal petrol<br />
station marring the otherwise gorgeous exterior, this place is<br />
one of the most aesthetically perfect hotels we’ve ever seen -<br />
unfortunately it has prices to match. Situated in new Sarajevo<br />
near the national television station and countless shiny<br />
new office buildings, it unabashedly caters to an upmarket<br />
business clientele. The rooms are absolutely stunning as are<br />
the views from the enormous rooftop terrace and restaurant.<br />
Curiously, non-guests can use the small fitness centre and<br />
massage services for fairly reasonable fees. Q 66 rooms<br />
(singles €81-131, doubles €91-151, apartments €253).<br />
PHARUIFLBKDCW<br />
Mid-range<br />
Astra Garni B-4, Kunduržiluk 2, tel. (+387) 33 47<br />
51 00/(+387) 33 47 52 00, fax (+387) 33 47 63 00,<br />
h.astra.garni@bih.net.ba, www.astra-garni.com.<br />
ba. This comfortable, modern hotel is set bang in the<br />
heart of Bascarsija, boasting a gym, sauna, conference<br />
facilities and nicely-designed rooms, some set on two<br />
levels. Probably the most conveniently-set hotel in town,<br />
the downside is that Sarajevo’s heaving street culture<br />
on the pedestrian lanes of Baščaršija can make it noisy<br />
during summer months. But in winter it is both romantic<br />
and efficient for business or pleasure. Q 53 rooms and<br />
14 suites (singles €90, doubles €120, suites €130).<br />
PTYJHA6UFLGKDXW<br />
Astra Hotel B-4, Zelenih Beretki 9, tel. (+387) 33<br />
25 21 00/(+387) 33 25 20 00, fax (+387) 33 20 99<br />
39, h.astra@bih.net.ba, www.hotel-astra.com.ba.<br />
Comfortable, affordable, central, with friendly staff and great<br />
breakfasts. Rooms on the second floor are best: king-sized<br />
Out for a stroll in Baščaršija<br />
beds swirled with silk drapes, luxurious fitted bathrooms and<br />
cable television. Downstairs in the breakfast room there’s<br />
a filling selection of pastries first thing in the morning. This<br />
hotel is a stone’s throw from the Gavrilo Princip Bridge, where<br />
Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914. Q<br />
17 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100, apartment €120).<br />
PTYJA6UGKX<br />
Bosnia B-3, Kulovića 9, tel. (+387) 33 47 12 51,<br />
fax (+387) 33 44 45 72, bosniahotel@bih.net.ba,<br />
www.bosniahotels.com. A relic of the old Yugoslav days,<br />
particularly in terms of the décor, but the staff are friendly<br />
and attentive, and it is handy for getting almost anywhere in<br />
Sarajevo on foot. Q 60 rooms (singles €85, doubles €100).<br />
PTYJHAUILGBKXW<br />
Dardanija B-3, Radićeva 15, tel. (+387) 33 213 613,<br />
fax (+387) 33 213 616, dardanija@dardanija.co.ba,<br />
www.dardanija.co.ba. May very well have been one of<br />
the top hotels in town during its day, but those days have<br />
long since passed - picture shiny bedspreads, green floors<br />
and lots of gold-trimmed furniture. <strong>Your</strong> choice of rooms is<br />
also between front-facing ones with street noise or back<br />
ones with depressing views of an alley. If that description is<br />
not completely off-putting then the place might not be that<br />
bad of an option, as the rooms are comfortable enough<br />
and most are fairly large. Q (singles €62, doubles €104).<br />
PJAW<br />
Europa Garni B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33<br />
23 28 55, europa-garni@smartnet.ba. Sitting a hundred<br />
metres away from the Astra Garni is the Europa Garni: rooms,<br />
level of service, prices and comfort are all much the same,<br />
with the added benefit that the Garni offers Sarajevo’s only<br />
Moroccan restaurant set across three different floors.<br />
<strong>In</strong>triguing. Q 28 rooms (singles €90, doubles €125).<br />
PTJHAILGKXW<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Gaj B-3, Skenderija 14, tel. (+387) 33 55 48 05/(+387)<br />
33 55 48 06, fax (+387) 33 44 52 00, info@hotel-gaj.<br />
co.ba, www.hotel-gaj.com.ba. Small, modest 12-room<br />
hotel with a nice garden set ten minutes walk from the centre.<br />
Basic but comfortable. Q 12 rooms (singles €60, doubles<br />
€90). PTYJA6UILEGBKXW<br />
Grand D-1, Muhameda ef. Pandže 7, tel. (+387)<br />
33 56 31 00, fax (+387) 33 56 32 00, hotelgrand@<br />
hotelgrand.com, www.hotelgrand.com. A less than<br />
inspirational-looking place on the hill behind the train station,<br />
at first glance it appears a bit behind the times - much like<br />
the photo of a Concorde hanging in the lobby. But we give<br />
it credit: the service and accommodation are first rate,<br />
and they somehow managed to secure the domain name<br />
hotelgrand.com, which has to count for something. Also, if<br />
you’re staying over the weekend there’s a 99% chance of<br />
seeing a wedding party downstairs - crashing it is entirely up<br />
to you and we take no responsibility for the consequences. Q<br />
132 rooms (singles €61-76, doubles €95-116, suites €125).<br />
PJHAULKW<br />
Safir Jagodića 3, tel. (+387) 33 47 50 40, info@<br />
hotelsafir.ba, www.hotelsafir.ba. Down a quiet alley<br />
only a few minutes’ walk from Baščaršija, Safir is great<br />
option for budget-conscious business travellers in town<br />
for longer stays. <strong>In</strong> a modern building with touches of<br />
traditional Bosnian architecture, each their eight rooms<br />
is ‘apartment type’, which essentially means a standard<br />
double with the addition of a good-sized kitchenette.<br />
Although the brochure and website mention conference<br />
facilities, the room in question is quite small and would<br />
perhaps be suitable for meetings at best. Q 8 rooms<br />
(singles €50, doubles €72).<br />
Unica B-3, Hamdije Kresevljakovica 42, tel. (+387)<br />
33 55 52 25/(+387) 33 55 53 35, fax (+387) 33<br />
55 52 26, hotelunica@hotmail.com, www.hotelunica.ba.<br />
At last. Just what Sarajevo needed. Eight<br />
double rooms and eight single rooms in a well-designed,<br />
tasteful hotel bang in the middle of Sarajevo, with multilingual<br />
staff and a nice cocktail bar thrown in. The rooms<br />
are comfortable with wi-fi connections, flat-screen TVs<br />
and great beds. It’s about to become the most popular<br />
hotel in town. Q 16 rooms (singles €75, doubles €100).<br />
PTJHALGKXW<br />
Vila Wien B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33<br />
23 28 55, fax (+387) 33 23 28 60, europa-garni@<br />
smartnet.ba, www.europa-garni.ba. This is a small<br />
and cosy separate wing of the Europa Garni, with six<br />
nice but small and newly-renovated rooms in the heart<br />
of the old Town. Q 6 rooms (singles €70, doubles €80).<br />
PTJALXW<br />
Villa Orient B-4, Oprkanj 6, tel. (+387) 33 23 27 02,<br />
fax (+387) 33 44 10 44, orient@bih.net.ba, www.<br />
hotel-villa-orient.com. The downside is that for what it<br />
costs - about €100 per night - the Vila Orient offers rather<br />
small rooms which are slightly featureless. The upside is that<br />
it is entirely central, right in the middle of Baščaršija, without<br />
being too noisy. Q 19 rooms (singles €75, doubles €100).<br />
PJHAFLBKXW<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
Where to stay<br />
October - November 2009<br />
19
20 Where to stay<br />
Budget<br />
Halvat C-4, Kasima Efendije Dobrače 5, tel. (+387) 33<br />
237 714/(+387) 61 130 093, fax (+387) 33 237 715,<br />
halvat@bih.net.ba, halvat.com.ba. We can’t say enough<br />
good things about this small family-run B&B just around the<br />
corner from Baščaršija. Mumo and Valida, the husband and<br />
wife team that runs the place, have been in the business<br />
for some 15 years and clearly pride themselves on paying<br />
attention to the smallest of details: we don’t want to ruin any<br />
future surprises but let’s just say that guests’ birthdays don’t<br />
go unnoticed. The house itself is incredibly cosy, with seven<br />
rooms and a large lounge in the basement where breakfast<br />
is served. Reservations are a must as their reputation keeps<br />
the place busy year round. Q 6 rooms (singles €46, doubles<br />
€68, triple €86). Prices are significantly lower from December<br />
to March. PJARB<br />
Hecco C-4, Medrese 1, tel. (+387) 33 27 37 30/(+387)<br />
33 27 37 31, fax (+387) 33 27 37 31, hotel.hecco@<br />
gmail.com, www.hotel-hecco.net. Set 500 metres<br />
above the heart of Baščaršija, Sarajevo’s old Ottoman<br />
quarter, the Hecco is neither as well-located nor opulent<br />
as its city-centre cousins, but for fifty euros per night for a<br />
double, with a bright, spacious and comfortable room with<br />
cable TV, wireless internet, satisfactory breakfast and a<br />
lovely espresso first thing, who’s complaining. It’s a bit of<br />
a hike back after a night out, but the view compensates.<br />
Q 27 rooms (singles €40, doubles €57, triples €67).<br />
PTYJHARLGKXW<br />
Hollywood Dr Pintola 23, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 77 31<br />
00, fax (+387) 33 77 31 45, info@hotel-hollywood.<br />
ba, www.hotel-hollywood.ba. A massive hotel and<br />
conference centre located in the near the airport in Ilidža,<br />
Hollywood is extremely popular with budget-minded<br />
business travellers, NGO workers, sports teams and the<br />
like - and for good reason. Aside from ample conference<br />
facilities, multiple restaurants and comfortable modern<br />
rooms, the complex boasts a nearly Olympic-size swimming<br />
pool, full sports hall, 4-lane bowling alley, wellness centre<br />
and is right next door to the one of the best water parks<br />
in the country. A great choice for those who have their<br />
own transport or don’t mind taking a taxi to the centre<br />
and back. Q 200 rooms (singles KM 75-95, doubles<br />
KM 120-140, triples KM 160-180, apartments KM 190).<br />
PTHARFLEBKDCW<br />
Hotel Boutique 36 C-4, Safet bega Basagica<br />
36, tel. (+387) 33 239 490, fax (+387) 33 233<br />
309, boutique36@gmail.com, http://www.hb36.<br />
ba/. Boutique 36 one minute from Baščaršija. <strong>In</strong><br />
the most famous and the most attractive part of<br />
Sarajevo Old Town, this is a newly open hotel, offering<br />
high quality service, accommodation and relaxation.<br />
Q (€52 per person).<br />
Identiko Guest House Halaci 3, tel./fax (+387) 33<br />
23 33 10, identiko@bih.net.ba. Small simple rooms,<br />
super-cheap, this makes a handy base from which to explore<br />
the centre of Sarajevo. Breakfast not included. Q 8 rooms<br />
(singles €24, doubles €75).<br />
Italija Pofalicka 7, tel. (+387) 33 65 04 50/(+387) 55<br />
65 04 85, fax (+387) 33 66 19 38, www.hotelitalia.<br />
ba. A straightforward hotel which has an extensive range<br />
of sporting extras, including an indoor swimming-pool and<br />
a small gym, which partly make up for the distance from<br />
the city-centre. Q 36 rooms (singles €45, doubles €75).<br />
TAIFLKXC<br />
Konak B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 48, tel. (+387)<br />
33 47 69 00/(+387) 61 53 14 94, info@hotel-konak.<br />
com, www.hotel-konak.com. This charming little hotel<br />
was re-opened earlier this year by the newest generation<br />
of the Resić family to get into the hotel business. While<br />
the street outside might be a little on the scruffy side, the<br />
hotel itself has been beautifully furnished in a traditional<br />
style with solid wood everything, modern amenities and<br />
a bright airy breakfast room downstairs. The service is<br />
excellent and the rates have been significantly reduced<br />
due to the current economic climate, making it a great<br />
value for the foreseeable future. Definitely recommended.<br />
Q 9 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70, apartment €150).<br />
PJALBW<br />
Kovači B-4, C-4, Kovači 12, tel. (+387) 33 57 37 00,<br />
fax (+387) 33 57 37 01, info@hotelkovaci.com, www.<br />
hotelkovaci.com. Yet another budget/mid-range option<br />
in the area immediately north of Baščaršija, Kovači looks<br />
quite stylish from the outside but the interior is a little too<br />
Spartan for our tastes. If you’re looking to splash out a bit<br />
in this part of town, they do offer a large top floor apartment<br />
with a jacuzzi bath. Q 8 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70,<br />
triple €80, suite €100). JALBW<br />
Palas Krivajska 1, tel. (+387) 33 72 54 00, fax (+387)<br />
33 72 54 08, info@palas.com.ba, www.palas.com.ba.<br />
Bang next-door to the railway and bus station. Simple, but<br />
cheap and convenient for getting in to town on the tram or<br />
on foot. Q 53 rooms (singles €40, doubles €60). Breakfast<br />
included. TALX<br />
Pansion Stari Grad Bjelina Čikma 4, tel. (+387) 33 23<br />
98 98, pansion_starigrad@hotmail.com. Located some<br />
50m from the Sebilj in Baščaršija, this place is comfortable if<br />
not overwhelming. Some of the single rooms are only slightly<br />
larger than the beds and/or have bathrooms guaranteed to<br />
give you bruised elbows, in other words, you may want to<br />
negotiate for a double if you’re the least bit claustrophobic.<br />
The aquarium and breakfast terrace are nice additions,<br />
but the real selling point is use of the adjacent guarded<br />
car park - a rarity in the city centre - for a small additional<br />
fee. Q 10 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50, triples €65).<br />
JALBW<br />
Yıldız C-4, Tahčića Sokak 4, tel. (+387) 33 00<br />
00 00/(+387) 61 13 97 36, info@hotelyildiz.ba,<br />
hotelyildiz.ba. Named after a neighbourhood in Istanbul,<br />
which is appropriate as it occupies a renovated Ottomanstyle<br />
house just north of Baščaršija, Yıldız has a bit more<br />
character than most of the nearby competition. We’d like<br />
it more if the rates were slightly less expensive (perhaps<br />
acquiring the best phone number in Sarajevo wasn’t cheap).<br />
Nevertheless it’s a good option for those who fancy the idea<br />
of staying in an old wooden house but still want WiFi and<br />
satellite television. Q 7 rooms (singles €40, doubles €50,<br />
triples €70). JAW<br />
Hostels<br />
Lion B-4, Bravadzluk 30, tel. (+387) 33 23 61 37. On<br />
the edge of Baščaršija. Some rooms don’t have windows<br />
and most are strangely decorated as though it were a doll’s<br />
house. No breakfast available. Q (singles €25, doubles<br />
€50). JAXW<br />
clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Bosnia, with its beautiful, favourable climate, has a<br />
fantastic selection of natural produce, in particular fruit<br />
and vegetables. The city’s three main markets in Ciglane,<br />
the city centre and Grbavica are well worth a visit, if for no<br />
other reason than to see the massive seasonal displays<br />
of cherries, apricots, nectarines, artichokes, avocados,<br />
raspberries, walnuts, celeriac, new potatoes and almost<br />
anything else you can think of. Many are just grown in<br />
kitchen gardens, all are non-GM, and a lot have never seen<br />
pesticides. The meat is excellent.<br />
However, this wide variety of raw ingredients does not<br />
always translate into good food being served in restaurants.<br />
Much of Bosnian cuisine is traditional, salty, meaty<br />
and fatty food. Tradition and societal expectation often<br />
stand in the way of culinary innovation, and too often the<br />
best one can say about Bosnian food is that it is OK. Most<br />
people eat at home, and restaurants are reserved for very<br />
special occasions: below is a selection of those places<br />
that do better than most.<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet L Guarded parking<br />
O Casino J Old Town location<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />
B Outside seating V Home delivery<br />
Asian<br />
Hot Wok B-2; B-3, Titova 12, tel. (+387) 33 20 33<br />
22/(+387) 61 17 17 60, info@hotwokcaffe.com. Eat<br />
mango chicken with fried noodles and sip a large freshly<br />
squeezed orange juice as you watch the cooks wok up sizzling,<br />
only mildly-improvised Thai food with inventive names like Hollywood<br />
Chicks. You’ll sit at high stools and be surrounded by a<br />
cluster of Bosnian businessmen, international diplomats and<br />
bureaucrats, or a foursome of Bosnian women on a night out.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 8-22). JAXS<br />
Kineski Restoran B-3, Ismeta Mujezinovića 14, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 66 41 17, kineski.restoran.sarajevo@gmail.<br />
com. Opened this past summer to fill the MSG-flavoured void<br />
left by the closing of the city’s only other Chinese restaurant,<br />
this imaginatively named place (‘Chinese Restaurant’ in English)<br />
was still sorting out some of the subtle differences between<br />
Chinese and Bosnian cuisine when we visited during its first<br />
week. Aside from that small wrinkle the service is impeccable<br />
- it always helps to poach experienced professional staff from<br />
other establishments - and the selection of dishes quite varied:<br />
Coca Cola chicken anyone? The selection of wine is also impressive.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM10-60). ALXS<br />
Bosnian<br />
ASDŽ B-4, Mali Čurčiluk 3, tel. (+387) 33 238 500. This<br />
modern canteen-style place in Baščaršija is great if you want to<br />
sample a variety of Bosnian dishes without the hassle of sitting<br />
down for a proper meal in a restaurant. Just point to what looks<br />
good and specify if you want a small or large portion of it - no need<br />
to master the menu beforehand or worry about pronunciation.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. (KM 1.50-10). PJBS<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
The wine collection at charming Noovi<br />
Avlija C-3, Sumbula Avde 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 83,<br />
fax (+387) 33 44 42 60, fkarkin@bih.net.ba, www.<br />
avlija.ba. Meaning ‘courtyard’ in Bosnian, the inside of this<br />
eclectic, noisy Bosnian restaurant is like a walled garden. To<br />
start choose fried mushrooms in breadcrumbs or ustipce,<br />
small deep-fried doughballs served with kajmak, soft<br />
white cream cheese. Then follow on with fantastic pepper<br />
steaks with perfect roast potatoes, or muckalicka, spiced<br />
beef stew with peppers served in a clay pot. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 4-22). TAX<br />
Buregdžinica Bosna B-4, Bravadžiluk 9. We’ve heard<br />
this no-nonsense Burek place recommended as far away as<br />
Slovenia, and based solely on the constant queue waiting<br />
to get a plate of the piping-hot savoury pastry it’s not<br />
without good reason. Vegetarians have the option of sirnica<br />
(cheese), zeljanica (spinach and cheese) or krompiruša<br />
(potato), and there’s even an air-conditioned dining room<br />
up the dangerously steep stairs in back. When coming<br />
from the direction of the Sebilj look for the red basketball<br />
logo on your left. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (8-12 KM per kilo).<br />
PJNBS<br />
Dveri B-4, Prote Bacovica 12, tel. (+387) 33 53 70 20,<br />
info@dveri.co.ba, www.dveri.co.ba. Beef goulash with<br />
plums, fabulous home-made bread, vegetable soup served<br />
with a poached egg, a garden to sit in summer, a toasty<br />
interior in which to sip rakiya in winter and hospitable Bosnian<br />
staff speaking perfect English make this small restaurant<br />
set in a pretty, flower-filled courtyard in Sarajevo’s Old Town<br />
one of the best choices to eat at for any occasion. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 23:00. (KM6-18). AX<br />
<strong>In</strong>at Kuća B-5, Veliki Alifakovac 1, tel. (+387) 33 447<br />
867/(+387) 61 338 177, fax (+387) 33 560 319. Dishes<br />
are limited but the location is good and the tale of how this<br />
restaurant came to be where it is, is pure Sarajevo - prevent<br />
the waiter whisking your menu away and read how the House<br />
of Spite got its name and position. Specializing in local soups<br />
and mains, the House rambles upwards with three floors of<br />
group settings, or tables for two for more intimate dining.<br />
Factor in the outdoor riverside tables and you have a pleasant<br />
setting for a traditional Bosnian experience, both culinary and<br />
cultural. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (KM 10-20). AU<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
21
22 restaurants<br />
Kibe C-4, Vrbanjuša 164, tel. (+387) 33 441 936, www.<br />
restorankibe.ba. Clinging to the side of the hill a few kilometres<br />
above Baščaršija, this family-run restaurant has been a<br />
Sarajevo institution since it opened in 1988. <strong>In</strong> a beautifully<br />
converted house with multiple dining areas, the menu contains<br />
all the Bosnian standards at prices similar to what you’ll find<br />
in less-inspired settings below, and the food is unanimously<br />
considered some of the best in the city. Definitely a must visit<br />
on any trip, just make sure to call ahead for reservations as<br />
window seats are scarce and demand understandably high.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 5-17).<br />
Lovac B-3; B-4, Petrekijina 24, tel. (+387) 33 66 41<br />
76/(+387) 61 10 23 31, info@lovac-sarajevo.com, www.<br />
lovac-sarajevo.com. Occupying a hundred year-old villa on<br />
the hill above the Cathedral, Lovač (or the Hunter) lives up to<br />
its name with a menu full of venison, wild boar and other game<br />
meat dishes, as well as pretty much every Bosnian specialty<br />
we’ve ever heard of. Appropriately enough the large outdoor<br />
seating area has a distinct hunting lodge feel to it, while inside<br />
things are a bit statelier - though a fair amount of mounted<br />
antlers, horns and heads still adorn the walls. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (KM 8 - 36). PJALB<br />
Park Prinčeva B-5, Iza Hrida 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 27 08,<br />
fax (+387) 33 53 24 03, www.parkprinceva.ba. You go to sit<br />
and have a drink on the terrace at Park Prinčeva, set on the side of<br />
a mountain overlooking Sarajevo, for one reason and one reason<br />
alone: the view. Especially in summer, it offers the most amazing<br />
view all the way up the valley, and allows you to see the whole city<br />
stretched underneath you. The staff are courteous, friendly and<br />
efficient. The traditional Bosnian food is beyond bland. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. (KM 8-22). TALEBX<br />
Pod Lipom B-4, Prote Bakovica 6, tel. (+387) 33 44<br />
07 00. On a quiet alley just around the corner from the<br />
Sebilj but away from most of the tourist traffic, Pod Lipom<br />
is a quaint traditional Bosnian restaurant with a lengthy<br />
menu and reasonable prices. There are a lot of hot and cold<br />
starters and soups to choose from so it’s great for groups<br />
who want to sample a bit of everything. If you want to get on<br />
your waiter’s good side ask him about the time Bill Clinton<br />
stopped by for some Sarajevski sahan. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 24:00. (6 - 15 KM). JAB<br />
Urban Grill B-3, Prušćakova 8, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 48,<br />
ugb@bih.net.ba, www.urbangrill.ba. The Brajlović family<br />
had been providing high quality meat to other restaurants<br />
for some 60 years before they finally decided to cut out the<br />
middle-men and open their own chain of slightly upmarket<br />
grills. So far they have two locations in Sarajevo, both of which<br />
are a cut above most of the competition in terms of quality<br />
and ambience while offering pretty much the same prices.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (KM 5 - 15). PJBS<br />
Željo 1 and 2 B-4, Kundurdžiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33<br />
44 70 00. Sarajevo ‘čevapčiči’ are small, immensely tasty<br />
grilled spicy sausages, served with spiced flat bread called<br />
‘somun.’ Traditionally accompanied by a glass of yoghourt,<br />
they are great at any time of day. Particularly good hangover<br />
food. Named after one of the city’s two main football clubs,<br />
Željo does some of the best čevačiči in Bosnia. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 23:00. (KM 4-7). JBX<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian<br />
Taj Mahal Paromlinska 48a, tel. (+387) 61 27 73<br />
84, www.tajmahal-sarajevo.com. If you’ve had your fill<br />
of traditional Bosnian fare or are just looking for something<br />
different, Sarajevo’s only <strong>In</strong>dian restaurant is a great option.<br />
It’s popular among expats and one of our personal favourites<br />
- we seem to find ourselves here at least a couple times a<br />
month. They specialise in Tandoori, but pretty much have<br />
all the standards covered as well as a large selection of<br />
Nepalese dishes. The location is a bit out of the way if you’re<br />
not familiar with the city so a taxi is probably a good idea,<br />
or you can always take advantage of their delivery service.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (KM 9-17). PALS<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
4 Sobe Gospode Safije C-3, Cekalusa 61, tel. (+387)<br />
62 62 28 22, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe.<br />
ba. ‘Four Rooms of Mrs.Safije’ is the latest venture of the<br />
owners of Hacienda cocktail bar and Baghdad Café, and<br />
their interior design flair has struck again. Glamorous,<br />
dressed-up Sarajevans and foreigners flock to drink Bosnian<br />
and Croatian wines and eat fusion food on three floors of<br />
this original Austro-Hungarian house set just outside the<br />
centre. Themed on the early 1900s love-story between the<br />
Bosnian Safija and her Austrian lover, dishes that triumph<br />
on the menu include salmon fillet with hollandaise, risotto<br />
with prawns and parmesan and chicken marinaded with<br />
honey and chilli sauce QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€2.50-12).<br />
PTILX<br />
Dr Food B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10, tel. (+387) 33<br />
20 55 51. Some of the best food in town. Prawn salad<br />
with rocket, grilled tuna steaks, fantastic beef, great<br />
chips, grilled St.Pierre fish and inventive puddings are<br />
just some of the reasons why this small, cosy restaurant<br />
overlooking the River Miljacka works so well. Attentive staff,<br />
a really good wine list and affordable prices are the others.<br />
Everything, from the stylish cutlery to the loos seems to be<br />
just right. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (KM 10-28).<br />
PTJABXSW<br />
Noovi Tina Ujevića bb, tel. (+387) 33 22 22 42. A newish<br />
wine-bar and restaurant, Noovi is situated just opposite<br />
the British Embassy on a small hill overlooking the centre of<br />
town. Run as a joint-venture between the staff of I Tri Bicchiere<br />
wineshop and Dr Food, it is a great place to amble<br />
along to on a sunny evening, have a bottle of Rioja and enjoy<br />
a platter of ham and cheese. If you feel like it there is seating<br />
indoors or out, their pasta and pizzas are well worth a<br />
try, and the wine-list is beyond extensive. Some of the best<br />
staff in town. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€5-10).<br />
PJAB<br />
Peppers A-2, Zagrebačka 4a, tel. (+387) 33 20 15<br />
50, restoranbarpeppers@yahoo.com. Set snugly close<br />
to the Grbavica headquarters of the Office of the High<br />
Representative, or OHR, Bosnia’s foreign overseer, means that<br />
this charming, well-run restaurant has an international feel and<br />
many international clients. The service is slick and fast, and<br />
dishes such as prawn cocktail, broccoli soup and excellent<br />
pastas come served up to a background of jazz funk. Good<br />
beers too. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. (€6-17). PJAS<br />
Pivnica HS B-4, Franjevačka 15, tel. (+387) 33 49 11<br />
00, www.sarajevska-pivara.ba. A favourite among tourists<br />
and well-heeled locals alike, this restaurant attached to the<br />
Sarajevska Brewery consists of one enormous hall with<br />
seating on two levels. The menu has just about anything<br />
you can think of, although house specialties seem to include<br />
many sausage and veal dishes. Aside from being on the<br />
expensive side - most mains with a side are around 20 KM<br />
- it’s also a little too nice for its own good, as the flawless<br />
décor somewhat compromises the traditional beer hall feel.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (7-40 KM). TJAL<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Pravda B-3, Radićeva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15,<br />
pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravda.ba. Sarajevo’s<br />
beautifully designed bar of the moment boasts comfortable<br />
sofas and high stools on which to perch and lounge, and good<br />
Croatian and Argentinian wines and snacks. Chicken Satay<br />
or tasty Dalmatian prawns with rocket are €7. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 24:00. (KM 6-24). TJA6EBX<br />
To Be or Not to Be Cizmedžluk 5, tel. (+387) 33 23<br />
32 65. There’s not much space in this friendly den of home<br />
cooking in Baščaršija, with its two tables on the pavement,<br />
two downstairs and three upstairs. Which seems to make it<br />
all the nicer to enjoy steaks with grilled vegetables, sea-bass<br />
and good pasta as the sound of a Bosnian tin-smith tapping<br />
away down the street fills the Sarajevo night. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 24:00. (KM 6-18). JABX<br />
Vinoteka B-3, Skenderija 12, tel. (+387) 33 21 49 96,<br />
www.vinoteka.ba. If you’re a visiting celebrity, Bosnian politician,<br />
foreign diplomat, member of the Sarajevo glitterati or just<br />
somebody who wants to have a fantastic meal with good wine<br />
in a beautifully-designed restaurant, you go to Vinoteka. Since<br />
opening in 2003 it’s been a prime contender for best restaurant<br />
in town. Set on the south side of the river on three floors,<br />
downstairs is a cosy wine-bar, while upstairs on two floors<br />
is the full restaurant experience. Choose from an extensive<br />
and varied menu: favourites such as carrot cream soup with<br />
shrimps, turkey breast with lime and honey, and Café de Paris<br />
Steak followed by tiramisu are all excellent. Over 100 wines from<br />
Bosnia and abroad make the meal sing. Unmissable. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (10-40 KM). PTJALGX<br />
Mexican<br />
Caballero B-3; C-3, Džidžikova 3, tel. (+387) 33 21<br />
02 66. This popular Mexican restaurant, situated up the<br />
hill from BBI near the French and Austrian embassies,<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
serves up large portions of fairly decent Tex-Mex standards<br />
like tostadas, burritos and enchiladas, as well as many<br />
vegetarian options and some vaguely Mexican-sounding<br />
meat dishes that all come with a slight Bosnian twist. The<br />
large covered terrace built to resemble some kind of rustic<br />
Latin American beach bar is an atmospheric place to enjoy<br />
an evening Corona or tequila cocktail along with a starter or<br />
two. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (KM 7-20).<br />
TJALEBS<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Karuzo B-3; B-4, Dženetića Čikma bb, tel. (+387) 33<br />
44 46 47/(+387) 63 89 37 93, www.karuzorestaurant.<br />
com. Quirky doesn’t even begin to describe this place.<br />
The tiny restaurant behind Markale is the creation of Saša<br />
Obućina: owner, host, chef, waiter and DJ. Outfitted to resemble<br />
a boat and named after an Italian opera singer, Karuzo<br />
was the first vegetarian restaurant in Sarajevo, and the menu<br />
is a somewhat schizophrenic medley combining vegetarian,<br />
macrobiotic and Mediterranean dishes, along with sushi. The<br />
overall experience of eating here has always reminded us of<br />
going to your uncle’s house for dinner - only if your uncle was<br />
a great cook and vaguely resembled Steven Segal. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(KM 6 - 35). JABS<br />
Vegehana B-2; B-3, Kemal-begova 4, tel. (+387) 61 59 21<br />
23, catering@vegehana.com, vegehana.com. Located on a<br />
quiet residential side-street off of Alipašina, this borderline sacreligious<br />
vegetarian oasis in the middle of the carnivore’s paradise<br />
that is Sarajevo (along with the rest of Bosnia) caters to a mixed<br />
crowd of trendy students and health conscious professionals.<br />
The daily special is a great value offering six different dishes<br />
(soup, main, two sides, salad and a pastry) for KM10 - you can<br />
see the current week’s selection by clicking ‘Jelovnik’ on their<br />
website. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. (3-10 KM). JAS<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
23
24 CafÉs<br />
Reconstructed music pavillion in Atmejdan Park<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet L Guarded parking<br />
O Casino J Old Town location<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />
B Outside seating V Home delivery<br />
Caffe del O’mar B-3, Trg Sarajeva (BBI Centar), tel.<br />
(+387) 33 56 99 99. A sprawling café that occupies a<br />
good chunk of the ground floor at the recently opened<br />
BBI shopping centre, it entices shoppers to take a load<br />
off with views of the centre’s six-floor atrium. There’s also<br />
additional seating out on the main square if you prefer<br />
some fresh air or the kids would just like to splash around<br />
in the nearby fountain. They do a variety of sandwiches<br />
and cakes, and also have some of the best shakes in<br />
town. The coffee’s not bad either. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.<br />
PTJAUB<br />
Gradska Kafana Stari Grad B-4, Obala Kulina Bana<br />
bb. This old school no-frills café is sandwiched between<br />
Baščaršija and the Obala along the river. Its large sprawling<br />
terrace is shaded courtesy of several ancient trees and<br />
there’s usually a mild breeze blowing up off the river, making<br />
it an ideal place for a coffee on sweltering summer days.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. J6NB<br />
Music Pavillion Café B-4, Atmejdan Park. By far<br />
the best of the lot of cafés in At Mejdan Park along the<br />
southern bank of the river, it’s also one of our favourites<br />
in the entire city. Housed in and around a beautiful wooden<br />
bandstand that was originally built in 1913 by the Austro-<br />
Hungarians and destroyed during WWII, it was completely<br />
restored in 2004 (ironically with funding from the Austrian<br />
government) and is one of the more unique café experiences<br />
in Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
J6NB<br />
Torte i to Café A-1, Grbavička 6, tel. (+387) 61 13<br />
49 88, www.torte-i-to.ba. One of this cafe’s many selling<br />
points is that it’s the only non-smoking café we know of<br />
in Sarajevo. Aside from its fresh air, it’s also known for<br />
bringing some excellent cheesecake to town. Among their<br />
various other cakes, pastries and sweets the carrot cake<br />
is our personal favourite, and the selection of coffee is as<br />
good as anywhere else in town. The new branch on the top<br />
of the BBI shopping centre has a smoking terrace, and<br />
a great view of central Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />
PJABS<br />
Vatra B-4, Ferhadija 4, tel. (+387) 33 222 244, info@<br />
vatra.ba, http://www.vatra.ba. This trendy café takes its<br />
name from Sarajevo’s Eternal Flame (Vječna Vatra), which<br />
burns only a few metres away in memory of the partisans<br />
who died during World War II. The café itself is a much less<br />
sombre affair, and we can’t remember ever seeing it not<br />
packed with a lively mix of people. The menu has just about<br />
enough cakes, ice creams and snacks to try something<br />
different each day of the year - we can’t get enough of the<br />
bite sized sandwiches - and fire-related quotes to keep you<br />
busy while you’re waiting. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
A night out in Sarajevo comes no better than an elongated<br />
wander through the city’s bar scene, where you will find<br />
people drinking coffee, beers, brandies, cocktails, wine,<br />
juices…or just mineral water. Sarajevo is very see-and-beseen,<br />
busy, and the city’s notoriously beautiful womenfolk<br />
dress accordingly. A handy rule-of-thumb is to assume<br />
that a waiter will find you almost as soon as you arrive<br />
in an establishment: do not order your drinks at the bar.<br />
Prices are almost the same everywhere, so think of<br />
paying about €2 for a large half-litre of beer, about €3-5<br />
for a cocktail, and somewhere in between for wine. It’s<br />
well worth trying the local brandies, made from plums<br />
(slivovitz), grapes(rakiya), walnuts (orahovaca), cherries<br />
(visnavaca,) and apricots (kajsija).<br />
Bosnia has a healthy drinking culture, and loud, affable,<br />
friendly behaviour is the norm. Particularly since the war,<br />
this is a city that has been it, seen it and done it, so there<br />
is nothing you can do that has not been done or seen<br />
before.<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet L Guarded parking<br />
O Casino J Old Town location<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />
B Outside seating V Home delivery<br />
Bars<br />
Baghdad B-4, Bazardzani 4, tel. (+387) 33 53 72<br />
18/(+387) 33 44 19 18, info@placetobe.ba, www.<br />
placetobe.ba. With its tasselled cushions, ornatelydecorated<br />
hanging glass lamps, blue and white tiles and<br />
conspicuously Moorish feel, this backstreet cocktail bar in<br />
Baščaršija has become very much in with Sarajevo’s twentysomething<br />
models, designers and party people. Extremely<br />
comfortable. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. JBXW<br />
Barhana B-4, Djulagina Cikma 8, tel. (+387) 33 36<br />
54 08/(+387) 33 44 77 27, info@barhana.ba, www.<br />
barhana.ba. Set in a cobbled street in Baščaršija, this<br />
is one of the top five bars in the whole city. The key to its<br />
success: good music, good-looking and cool customers,<br />
mainly Bosnian, easily-affordable drinks, friendly service<br />
and the best of eighties music. It suffices to say that<br />
Jasmina Mameledzija, Sarajevo’s uber-cool and glamorous<br />
original female DJ, names it as one of her favourite bars.<br />
Go along to see why. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
TJABKX<br />
Barka B-4, Kundurdžiluk 10, tel. (+387) 33 537 273,<br />
www.clubbarka.ba. Walk in to Barka and you’d think the<br />
Dalmatian coast had just washed up in downtown Sarajevo.<br />
The bar is made from part of an old fishing-boat, nautical<br />
and maritime impedimenta hang from the ceilings and walls,<br />
and there’s a faint feeling of being on a permanent holiday.<br />
Efficient staff zip between the busy downstairs and the<br />
quieter snogging lounge upstairs. A garden in summer draws<br />
in the Bosnian diaspora crowd home on holiday. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 03:00. JBX<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
Rock that fiddle!<br />
nightlife<br />
Central Café B-4, Strosmajerova 1, tel. (+387) 33 20<br />
04 42, www.centralcafe.co.ba. If you’re young, Bosnian,<br />
female, probably beautiful and have got a few marks in the<br />
pocket of your hotpants or in your faux-designer handbag,<br />
on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night you WILL be seen<br />
at Central Café. You’ll be drinking Nescafe, cherry-juice or<br />
possibly Bambus, which is Coca-Cola mixed with red wine.<br />
You’ll be texting your friends, dancing and catching the<br />
eye of a lot of hair-gelled, metrosexually-dressed Bosnian<br />
males. If, however, you are a visitor to Sarajevo it’s simply<br />
great fun to go along and watch the action. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 03:00. JABX<br />
Delikatesna Radnja B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 20 88 55, www.delikatesnaradnja.<br />
ba. On the edge of the Miljacka, this popular café boasts<br />
good wireless internet, nice sandwiches, draft beer and<br />
a selection of teas and coffees. At weekends, or any time<br />
when it’s sunny, the outside seating area is packed with a<br />
more affluent-looking, stylish crowd, cars double parked,<br />
Sarajevo’s svelte twenty-something women drinking coffee<br />
and mingling in the sun. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:30<br />
- 24:00. PTJABKXW<br />
Hacienda B-4, Bazardzani 3, tel. (+387) 33 44 19<br />
18, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe.ba. Sarajevo’s<br />
original cocktail bar, this lavish Mexican-themed enterprise<br />
in the centre of Baščaršija is a visual and relaxing retreat<br />
reminiscent of Seville or Guadalajara. Great cocktails such<br />
as Caipirinhas and Margaritas start at €4, as nocturnal<br />
Sarajevo descends to listen to Latin Jazz, Salsa and Cuban<br />
funk, see and be seen, dance and drink. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 04:00. JAEBKXW<br />
Havana B-4, Kundurdžiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33 44 70 00.<br />
With its charming staff, high tile-topped tables with wroughtiron<br />
stools, and the floor-length glass windows open wide,<br />
this is a perfect place to watch Sarajevo pass by while you<br />
sip a beer or an espresso. There’s a bar in every town in the<br />
world that is themed on that hackneyed old cliché, Cuba, and<br />
this is it. But done better than most. <strong>In</strong>triguing internal décor,<br />
including a fake wall that is actually a large mirror. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 01:30. JBX<br />
Jež Club B-4, Zelenih Beretki 14, tel. (+387) 33<br />
650 312, info@jez.ba, www.jez.ba. Jež is a club, bar,<br />
restaurant and summer garden all in one. Come here to enjoy<br />
traditional live music ‘tamburasi’ (a band playing tamburas - a<br />
small stringed guitar) or ‘trubaci’ (a band playing trumpets)<br />
and for the ladies there are free cocktails available on<br />
Saturdays. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00.<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
25
26 nightlife<br />
Someone came to party<br />
Kino Bosna B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipašina 19. This<br />
theatre-cum-bar is ground zero for Sarajevo’s alternative<br />
crowd and home to the cheapest beer in town. The bar is<br />
essentially just the lobby of an old cinema - which still shows<br />
a film every once and while and hosts the odd thrash/metal/<br />
hardcore concert - but most nights the place is packed and<br />
the party is forced to spread outside onto the terrace, front<br />
steps and street. <strong>In</strong> recent years it’s made its way onto the<br />
tourist map, so you probably won’t be the only foreigner there.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. J6ENBS<br />
L.A. C-2, Merhemića Trg 14, tel. (+387) 61 432<br />
184/(+387) 61 376 009. L.A. is a new cocktail bar and<br />
organizes events and fashion shows worthy of attention.<br />
Summer time out in the big garden is crowded and lively.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PEX<br />
Marquee B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 6, tel. (+387) 61 132<br />
117, info@ilijas.net, www.marquee.net.tf. Legend has it<br />
that Marquee never closes till the last customer passes out.<br />
You know you’ve had a premium night-out in Sarajevo when<br />
you end up in Marquee, with its rock memorabilia, chatty,<br />
friendly staff and the most-grafittied toilets in south-eastern<br />
Europe. Bottled beers and cocktails flow, while a mixture of<br />
leathery old rockers, gorgeous Sarajevo über-babes, mindbogglingly<br />
drunk EU peacekeepers and students happily rub<br />
shoulders. Most of them will have forgotten the following day<br />
that they went to Marquee at all. Fantastic. QOpen 00:00<br />
- 24:00. JX<br />
Maršal Tito Bihacka 19, tel. (+387) 61 92 30 42.<br />
This used to be a great, very individual bar themed on the<br />
late Marshal Tito, set on the edge of the river in Hrasno a<br />
couple of kilometres outside the centre of town. Now it’s<br />
moved to a new site behind the National Museum, with a<br />
huge outdoor seating area and a collection of machine-guns<br />
displayed on the walls. To find it, just look for the disused<br />
tanks and abandoned Mi-17 Helicopter gunship on the grass<br />
behind the National Museum. It’s next to them. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00.<br />
Mash B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20/I, tel. (+387) 33 48<br />
90 33/(+387) 33 205 490. Much of Sarajevo’s charm<br />
is that many of its attractions are not apparent, or even<br />
hidden. Were it not for the noise coming from its location on<br />
the first-floor terrace of a nondescript tower-block next to<br />
The National Theatre, you could easily miss this hip, stylish<br />
bar, with seats outside on a terrace. Popular with a younger<br />
crowd, it is often refurbished. Expect it to look like the interior<br />
of a ocean-liner, a spaceship or a drawing-room. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 24:00. JBX<br />
Nostalgija Mukevita 10. Like name, like bar. Post-war<br />
melancholia and fond memories of better days seem to<br />
hang over this tiny, somehow charming establishment<br />
set in an alley just off Ferhadija. The owner and barman’s<br />
an old Sarajevo DJ and soldier of note, the clientele a<br />
variety of semi-pickled Sarajevo regulars who float on<br />
the lesser fringes of the city’s artistic community. Fun,<br />
but not exactly lively. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00.<br />
Opera B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 25, tel. (+387)<br />
61 156 943, f ax (+387) 33 221 940, inf o@<br />
caffebaropera.ba, www.caffebaropera.ba. Located<br />
opposite Mash bar, Opera’s high stools and tall tables<br />
pull in a twenty-and-thirty something crowd, with good<br />
cocktails and slick service, and occasional live music.<br />
The back room is filled with low-slung sofas, popular with<br />
younger couples and teenagers on dates, all of whom tend<br />
to live at home with their parents. They sip warm Nescafé<br />
and fruit juices and snog their way contentedly through<br />
the afternoon and early evening. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.<br />
JBX<br />
Pravda B-3, Radićeva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15,<br />
pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravdasarajevo.<br />
com. Sarajevo’s beauti fully designed bar of the<br />
moment boasts comfortable sofas and high stools<br />
on which to perch and lounge, and good Croatian and<br />
Argentinian wines and snacks. Spot Bosnian President<br />
Haris Silajdzic on sofas next to Bosnian and Serb<br />
models and designers, international diplomats and<br />
local celebrities. Great fun. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.<br />
JA6EBX<br />
Ribica B-3, Kaptol 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 53 69.<br />
Meaning ‘little fish,’ this is the most original bar in<br />
Sarajevo. Opera, theatre and concert posters line<br />
the walls, customers like Džejla Glavović, Bosnia’s<br />
supermodel face of Ralph Lauren, sip coffee and beers,<br />
comfortable stools and plush banquettes with gilded<br />
mirrors bring to mind a cross between a mini-brasserie<br />
from Paris, a Viennese coffee house and a bar. Eccentric<br />
owner Slobodan plays country rock, folk and blues from<br />
a 13,000-strong song collection. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
JBX<br />
Casinos<br />
Coloseum Club A-2, Terezije bb (KSC Skenderija),<br />
tel. (+387) 33 250 860/(+387) 33 250 880, fax<br />
(+387) 33 250 861, coloseum@hit-bih.com.ba,<br />
www.coloseum-club.com. Entertainment center Coloseum<br />
offers relaxed socializing, concerts, entertaining<br />
events and top enjoyment. <strong>In</strong> the Arena Restaurant you<br />
can enjoy a romantic dinner, numerous concerts by top<br />
local artsits, theatre plays, fashion shows and dance<br />
performances. There’s also a casio with table games<br />
and slot machines and a large conference room for<br />
business events and meetings. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
POJHAULEBKX<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Clubs<br />
Aqua Disco Mali Kiseljak 8, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33<br />
625 500. A big-stage disco with DJs and live music. It’s<br />
part of a swimming-pool complex, where some like to mix,<br />
swimming and dancing. Great for the summer time! Q<br />
PEBXC<br />
Buddha Bar B-3, Radićeva 10, tel. (+387) 61 172<br />
894, dandza@info.ba. Dancing and drinking club with<br />
great selection of seventies and eighties music and friendly<br />
bar-staff. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. JX<br />
Fis B-3, Musala bb, tel. (+387) 33 21 65 19, info@<br />
bock.ba, www.bock.ba. Compact dancing club with black<br />
and white interior décor and a hedonistic, engagingly chaotic<br />
Bosnian clientele. Free entry. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. For<br />
more info visit: www.myspace.com/bocksarajevo. EX<br />
The Club B-3, Maršala Tito 7, tel. (+387) 33 550<br />
550/(+387) 33 208 288, fax (+387) 33 208 288,<br />
theclub.sarajevo@gmail.com, www.theclub.ba. Large,<br />
classy nightclub with live music, a good restaurant and<br />
fantastic service. Free entry. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Drinks<br />
from KM 3-6. PAEBKX<br />
Pubs<br />
Celtic Pub B-4, Ferhadija 12 (pasaž), tel. (+387) 61<br />
712 985/(+387) 61 916 565. One of the only urban<br />
hangouts in Sarajevo. <strong>In</strong> Celtic Pub you will feel the traditional<br />
Celtic spirit of the Bosnian way that guarantees a special<br />
pleasure for every guest. Try out the large selection of<br />
whiskies they have on offer, let alone the selection of beer<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
nightlife<br />
and other beveragesof good quality. When there is a live<br />
band, it’s especially good fun! QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.<br />
Cheers B-4, Muvekita 4, tel. (+387) 62 476 476/(+387)<br />
62 622 210, denis_stojnec@hotmail.de. A great place<br />
to start a night out. The wood and brick interior and<br />
excellent service provide an environment for enjoyment<br />
with your friends and collegues. They offer a wide choice<br />
of beer, whiskeys, and alcoholic beverages, with quality live<br />
music and themed entertainment. QOpen 08:00 - 05:00.<br />
PJEK<br />
City Pub B-4, Despiceva bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 789,<br />
www.citypub.co.ba. Sarajevo’s most efficient waiters<br />
make everybody welcome at this jolly, popular city-centre<br />
pub, from uber-pretty university girls, tourists, off-duty<br />
European peacekeepers, resident internationals, Bosnian<br />
businessmen, models and artists. A resident DJ turns out<br />
everything from David Bowie to The Beach Boys to FatBoy<br />
Slim. A half-litre of Sarajevsko or Tuborg will set you back<br />
€1.5, cocktails €3. Boisterous. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30.<br />
YABX<br />
Guinness Pub B-4, Ferhadija 28, tel. (+387) 61 72<br />
22 60. At first appearance this joint looks more like an<br />
alleyway with a makeshift bar at the end of it than a proper<br />
pub, but there are actually several sprawling cellar-type<br />
rooms downstairs and the place would be pleasant enough<br />
if not for the excruciatingly bad vocal techno music they tend<br />
to blast. However, it’s impossible to recommend a place<br />
called Guinness Pub when - and we can’t stress this enough<br />
- they don’t have any Guinness! No draught, no bottles, no<br />
cans, nothing. Simply unforgiveable. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.<br />
PJAEB<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
27
28 What to see<br />
Downtown Sarajevo nestled amongst the rolling hills<br />
One of the beauties of Sarajevo is that it is small, making<br />
it easy to orientate yourself and start feeling at home as<br />
soon as you arrive. We make a few suggestions below<br />
about things to see and do in and around town, but you’ll<br />
quickly realise how much of the pleasure in a visit to Sarajevo<br />
is gained by simply wandering around and having a<br />
look at the wealth of interesting sights that lie around you.<br />
Walk down the boulevard called Vilsonovo Setaliste under<br />
the lime trees and watch the river Miljacka at dusk. Entrancing.<br />
The best way to get there is to take a taxi to the<br />
Vrbanja Bridge, and walk along the north side of the river<br />
all the way to Grbavica.<br />
There has been much reconstruction and repairing done in<br />
recent years and the physical scars of the war are becoming<br />
less and less visible. But the emotional ones remain<br />
for many: go to any of the three huge cemeteries in Ciglane<br />
and notice how many of the graves are dated between<br />
1992-1995. Sit and enjoy the peace and quiet and reflect<br />
on how good ones’ lot in life actually is. The best way to<br />
get there is to walk from Marshal Tito away from the Eternal<br />
Flame in the city centre, follow the tram-lines, and turn<br />
right up Alipašina after about a kilometre. The cemeteries<br />
will be laid out on your right after a ten-minute walk.<br />
Take a taxi or tram out to Ilidža and walk down the avenue<br />
under the plane trees that leads to the hot springs. Take<br />
care not to get run over by the horses and carriages clop-<br />
ping along, filled with sightseers enjoying the ride. Once<br />
you get back to the riverside, have coffee on the terrace<br />
at Café Prestige. If you’re feeling slightly more energetic,<br />
stroll along the Miljacka to Kozja Ćuprija (Goat Bridge),<br />
an Ottoman-era structure where trading caravans once<br />
crossed and local pilgrims set off for Mecca. The bridge<br />
itself is an impressive structure and the more romantically-minded<br />
visitor will get a kick out of imagining the<br />
people, pack animals and products that have traversed<br />
it over the centuries. The easy flat walk along the river<br />
makes for a pleasant morning or afternoon excursion and,<br />
if you need to revive yourself for the wander back to town,<br />
you can get a coffee or cool drink at the nearby café. Just<br />
follow the riverside path, keeping the water to your right on<br />
your way out to the bridge, and you can’t go wrong. Hire a<br />
car or take a taxi and drive up to Mount Bjelašnica outside<br />
Sarajevo. The route takes you up Mount Igman where wartime<br />
mines still lurk in the forests at the side of the road.<br />
At Bjelašnica have lunch at the Srebrna Lisica restaurant<br />
- the name means ‘Silver Fox’ - and watch the fantastic<br />
mountain scenery and the ski slopes where some of the<br />
1984 Olympic events were held.<br />
No weekend in Sarajevo or visit to Bosnia would be<br />
complete without taking a 45-minute drive to the beautiful<br />
mountain forests and countryside of Romanija, which lies<br />
outside the town of Sokolac north-east of Sarajevo. Don’t<br />
forget to visit Sokolac itself: a visit to Café Victoria is a<br />
must. A hidden treat.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Galleries<br />
National Gallery of BiH B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 26 65 50. Located near the Orthodox<br />
Cathedral, the nation’s national gallery provides a fine<br />
introduction to the eclectic work of Bosnia’s artists, both<br />
contemporary and those representing the country’s rich<br />
artistic traditions from the past. Photography, sculpture,<br />
paintings and installations are all represented in a<br />
collection that has been curated around color themes and<br />
schemes. Entry to the gallery is free but some coins or a<br />
note dropped into the collection boxes dotted throughout<br />
will help the gallery continue to operate, and also acquire<br />
and exhibit the artworks of a country well-known for its<br />
artists. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tue-Sat<br />
12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon<br />
Museums<br />
Brusa Bezistan B-4, Baščaršija, tel. (+387) 33<br />
239 590, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. This Ottomanera<br />
covered market with its six large domes is one of<br />
Baščaršija’s most recognisable buildings. Designed by<br />
Rustem Pasha, Grand Vizier to Suleiman the Great, in<br />
1551 the structure long served as the city’s centre of<br />
trade and commerce. It was heavily damaged during the<br />
siege, but has since been restored and today it’s part<br />
of the Museum of Sarajevo with a permanent exhibition<br />
spanning all the way from antiquity through to the end of<br />
the Austro-Hungarian empire. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Despić House (Despića Kuća) B-4, Despićeva<br />
2, tel. (+387) 33 475 740, www.muzejsarajeva.ba.<br />
Originally built during the 17th century, the house belonged<br />
to a wealthy Orthodox family of traders and art patrons<br />
who are credited with organising Sarajevo’s first theatre<br />
performances. Nowadays the quaint pink and white building<br />
along Obala Kulina Bana is part of the Museum of Sarajevo<br />
and serves as a well-preserved cultural museum whose<br />
friendly staff seem more than happy to give impromptu<br />
history lesson or even tours. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Historical Museum of BiH B-1; B-2, Zmaja od<br />
Bosne 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 04 18, histmuz@bih.net.<br />
ba. It is horribly ironic but also authentic that a museum<br />
such as this, badly damaged during the siege, should now<br />
house the permanent exhibtion ‘Surrounded Sarajevo’<br />
which looks at the impact of the nearly four years of<br />
war on the city’s citizens.Downstairs is an exhibition on<br />
the history of Bosnia and Herzegovina from the earliest<br />
recorded mentions through to the Communist era but it<br />
is the upstairs that is most likely to attract and repel,<br />
move and educate the visitor to Sarajevo. Here, in a<br />
non-partisan or judgemental fashion, the story of the<br />
siege is told through photographs and artefacts, from<br />
hand-made heating, cooking and fighting implements<br />
to aid items that came in from abroad. Most harrowing<br />
perhaps are the images of and by children, trying to live<br />
a normal childhood in the most abnormal of conditions<br />
- few visitors could fail to be moved by the bloodstained<br />
school satchels and workbooks that are the legacy of a<br />
shell-strike on a lesson in progress. Like many cultural<br />
institutions in BiH the museum struggles for funds so the<br />
modest 4 KM entry fee you pay will do a little to help and<br />
in return provide an experience you are not likely to forget.<br />
Permanent Exhibits: ‘Sarajevo under Siege, B&H Through<br />
Centuries’. Q Tue-Fri 09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-13:00,<br />
closed Mon 4 KM.<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
What to see<br />
National Museum B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 3, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 66 80 26/(+387) 33 66 80 27, fax (+387)<br />
33 26 27 10, z.muzej@zemaljskimuzej.ba, www.<br />
zemaljskimuzej.ba. Located next to the Historical Museum<br />
and old-fashioned in the nicest possible way, the National<br />
Museum covers a lot of ground in the three buildings open<br />
to the public. Permanent exhibitions examine the life and<br />
history of Bosnia’s inhabitants - animal, vegetable and<br />
mineral - under the Departments of Archaeology, Ethnology<br />
and Natural History. The oldest cultural institution in BiH,<br />
the museum has its fair share of dioramas and insects in<br />
cases but these seem to add to its charm. And, temporary<br />
exhibitions such as the one on hand-made Bosnian women’s<br />
shirts that was showing at the time of writing demonstrate<br />
that the museum is also able to mount contemporary,<br />
atmospheric and well thought out exhibitions that would not<br />
be out of place in any of the world’s leading institutions. When<br />
you add in treasures such as some beautiful Roman mosaics<br />
and the world famous 14th century Sarajevo Haggadah you<br />
have a museum well worth a visit and where your small entry<br />
fee (5 KM) will help to keep it operating. If the stuffed bears<br />
and skewered bugs start to get to you, escape out into the<br />
Botanical Gardens where the hundreds of trees and other<br />
plants from around the globe provide a living, breathing lung<br />
in the centre of the complex. Q Tue-Fri 10:00-15:00, Sun<br />
10:00-14:00, closed Mon & Sat Admission: 5 KM.<br />
Around Sarajevo<br />
Lukomir The inhabitants of Lukomir, a stone built<br />
village on the slopes of Bjelasnica mountain, live the<br />
high life - located at nearly 1500 metres the town<br />
is the highest inhabited settlement in Bosnia. Cut<br />
off for much of the winter, Lukomir boasts a newly<br />
built lodge for those wanting to spend a few days<br />
exploring nearby sights such as the 800-metre deep<br />
Rakitnica Canyon and the Studeno Polje Valley. But it<br />
is age that makes Lukomir of most interest, for here<br />
you can get a glimpse into life as it was largely lived<br />
hundreds of years ago. Situated about 90 minutes<br />
drive away from Sarajevo, Lukomir can be reached<br />
by car, organised tour or bus.<br />
Visoko Pyramids A worldwide jury of archaeologists<br />
is still out when it comes to the question of whether<br />
these large mounds of mystery in the countryside some<br />
30km north of Sarajevo were made by the hands of man<br />
or constructed by mother nature - although nature is<br />
currently dominating the debate. Either way, the Visoko<br />
pyramids make for an interesting day trip. Visoko means<br />
‘high place’ and visitors can enjoy the alpine scenery of<br />
the region while pondering the pyramid puzzle.<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
29
30 What to see<br />
Sarajevo Museum 1878-1918 B-4, Zelenih Beretki<br />
1, tel. (+387) 33 533 288, info@muzejsarajeva.ba,<br />
www.muzejsarajeva.ba. Located on the spot where<br />
Gavrilo Princip assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand<br />
- the heir the Austro-Hungarian throne and namesake<br />
of at least one modestly successful Scottish rock band<br />
- which of course led to a declaration of war on Serbia<br />
and the beginning of World War I. Opened in 2007 after<br />
extensive renovations, the well-designed, visitor-friendly<br />
museum details the years of Austro-Hungarian rule in<br />
Sarajevo and the effects it had on the city, from political<br />
and administrative changes to art and architecture, and<br />
everything in between. Q Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat<br />
10:00-15:00, Closed Sun. From 15 Oct - 14 Apr closes at<br />
16:00 on weekdays.<br />
Tunnel Museum Tuneli 1, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 62<br />
85 91. It might be small, but it’s definitely sincere - few<br />
museums move visitors to tears but the Tunnel Museum<br />
packs a powerful punch. Dug during the war, the tunnel<br />
linked the besieged city to the free zone beyond the airport,<br />
providing a life and supply line through which passed the<br />
aged and the injured, food and fuel, soldiers and cigarettes.<br />
Today, only about 20 metres of the original 700 metre length<br />
is accessible but even so crouching your way through the dim,<br />
dank passage gives a tiny taste of how a full-on crossing may<br />
have felt. The museum proper is inside one of the two houses<br />
which provided the entry/exit points. <strong>In</strong> addition to wartime<br />
memorabilia, visitors can view video footage of the siege<br />
and the tunnel’s construction and operation. Usually the<br />
video plays to a pin-drop silence interrupted only by intakes<br />
of breath as visitors watch shells shoot across the Sarajevo<br />
sky and slam into apartment blocks, the National Library<br />
ablaze, and soldiers and civilians alike making their way<br />
through this dirt and timber lifesaver. Moving, memorable,<br />
not to be missed.<br />
Parks<br />
Vrelo Bosne Ilidža. A lush green oasis at the source of<br />
the River Bosne, the park may only be 12km southwest<br />
of the city centre in the suburb of Ilidža, but it’s a world<br />
away from the hustle and bustle of Sarajevo. Even without<br />
the urban contrast it’s quite an idyllic place with swans,<br />
waterfalls, Austro-Hungarian palaces and horse-drawn<br />
carriages all competing for attention, and if you’re there on<br />
a Saturday you’re more likely than not to see at least one<br />
wedding party. It’s easily combined with a trip to the Tunnel<br />
Museum, and there are several outdoor cafés selling drinks<br />
and lights snacks. Catholic Cathedral<br />
Sights<br />
Avaz Tower B-1; B-2; C-2, Tesanjska 24b. It’s a case<br />
of ‘I can see my hotel from up here’ when you are standing<br />
on the observation deck of the Avaz Twist Tower. Sarajevo is<br />
quite a sight when viewed from 172 metres up the ‘twister’<br />
as this column of smoky blue glass is known. Situated near<br />
the train station in Marin Dvor, and that’s enough directions<br />
as it’s hard to miss, the lookout floor, with both indoor and<br />
outdoor areas, provides stunning views of the city below and<br />
the mountains fading off in the distance. One floor down is a<br />
cafe-bar where you can drink in a hot or cold beverage with<br />
the view. Open every day from 8:00 until 23:00 the tower<br />
offers a unique twist on seeing Sarajevo and it only costs a<br />
mark to take the fast trip to the top.<br />
Baščaršija B-5; B-4, . Get used to pronouncing the name<br />
Baščaršija (Bosh-CHAR-shee-ya) as this mouthful of letters<br />
is not only the heart and soul of Sarajevo and a striking<br />
reminder of its Ottoman past, but also home to - or at least<br />
the point of reference for - a majority of the city’s hotels,<br />
restaurants, sights and nightspots. While the area was the<br />
centre of trade and commerce during the Ottoman’s lengthy<br />
rule (the name itself means central market in English),<br />
nowadays its rebuilt lanes are packed with a mix of locals,<br />
independent travellers and tour groups virtually around<br />
the clock: eating, shopping, drinking or just soaking up the<br />
atmosphere during an evening stroll.<br />
Catholic Cathedral (Katedrala Srca Isusova)<br />
B-4, Ferhadija bb. The Cathedral of Jesus’ Heart is the<br />
largest church in the country, and an impressive fixture of<br />
Sarajevo’s skyline. Well restored after being heavily damaged<br />
in the war, it was built in 1889 by Josip Vancas, the same<br />
architect who designed the post office. Outside, the steps<br />
provide a popular meeting and resting place. <strong>In</strong>side, with<br />
the pastel blue and cream walls and some beautiful stained<br />
glass, busy Ferhadija seems a hundred miles and a hundred<br />
years away. The sense of peace so often found in places of<br />
worship permeates the cathedral so if you enter make sure<br />
your cell phone is firmly switched to ‘off’.<br />
Eternal Flame B-3, Maršala Tita. At the junction of<br />
Ferhadija and Marsala Titova streets, the Eternal Flame<br />
and cupola behind it commemorates the partisans who<br />
fought in WWII. It’s nice, and in a focal part of town, but it<br />
needs a brush-and-scrub, a bit of doing-up and a couple<br />
of smartly-uniformed police officers on guard duty to<br />
give tough and short shrift to the tedious Roma children<br />
that beg nearby.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Ghazi Husrev-beg<br />
Ghazi Husrev-beg B-4, Veliki Saraći, tel. (+387)<br />
33 53 43 75, vakuf-gazi@lsinter.net, www.vakufgazi.ba.<br />
The Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque was built by the<br />
famous Ottoman architect Mirnar Sinan and is considered<br />
to be one of the most important Islamic buildings in<br />
Bosnia. Gazi Husrev-beg had it constructed by the<br />
Persian architect in an early Istanbul style in 1531. The<br />
45m-high minaret towers over the 26m-high dome and<br />
the surrounding area. The grounds include an abdest<br />
hana, or washing room, a wooden sadrvan (fountain), a<br />
mekteb, or primary school, and a muvekithana, or prayer<br />
caller’s home. To the left are two elaborate 16th century<br />
buildings. The large red house in the enclosed garden<br />
behind the Careva mosque was the official residence of<br />
the Ottoman rulers of Bosnia, and is also the place where<br />
the heavily wounded Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his<br />
wife were brought, and died, after they had been shot by<br />
Gavrilo Princip in 1914.<br />
Jewish Cemetary A-4. Located on the front-line during<br />
the war this historic cemetery was severely damaged<br />
during that time and now faces an ever-present threat<br />
from landslides due to its steep hillside location. Ongoing<br />
rescue and restoration work has seen some of the 3800+<br />
tombstones repaired but much remains to be done and<br />
about 95% of the stones are still damaged. On the site,<br />
located in the Kovačići-Debelo Brdo area and not far above<br />
the transit road, visitors can wander through one of the<br />
largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe. Containing graves<br />
from the 16th century onwards, the cemetery is an integral<br />
part of Jewish history in the region and an atmospheric<br />
and interesting place for the casual visitor though those<br />
wandering through should be aware that the site is in<br />
poor condition and be careful of both the gravestones and<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
What to see<br />
monuments and their own safety. Also on the site are a<br />
chapel, a fountain and several monuments dedicated to<br />
the victims of fascism. Though it can be walked to and<br />
one can get relatively close by public transport, a taxi<br />
might be the easiest way for visitors who don’t fancy the<br />
steep uphill climb.<br />
Jewish Museum B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije bb,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 21 55 32/(+387) 33 53 56 88, fax<br />
(+387) 33 47 57 49, kontakt@muzejsarajeva.ba,<br />
www.muzejsarajeva.ba. The bare stone walls and timber<br />
floors of this museum, located in a Sarajevo synagogue<br />
built in 1581, provide an aesthetically pleasing space for a<br />
small but well designed and laid out museum dedicated to<br />
the city’s long Jewish history. Along with religious artifacts<br />
the museum displays personal and professional objects<br />
associated with notable local writers, artists, composers<br />
and humanitarian workers. On the upper floor the displays<br />
turn their attention to one of the darkest periods in<br />
human history. The 12000 Jewish Bosnian victims of the<br />
Holocaust are commemorated in a large book bearing<br />
their names while photographs, documents and items<br />
such as concentration camp clothing provide the ‘faces’<br />
behind these names and a testament to their suffering and<br />
the Jewish community’s ultimate survival. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.<br />
Latin Bridge B-4, Obala Kulina Bana. The name<br />
Latinska Ćuprija may not mean much to the casual visitor<br />
to Sarajevo but mention ‘Franz Ferdinand’ and ‘World War<br />
I’ to anyone who did modern history in high school and the<br />
penny will drop. Dating from 1798 the structure is a fine<br />
example of Ottoman bridge design in itself, but that’s not<br />
why it is world-famous. Latinska Ćuprija is best-known as<br />
the place where the heir to the Austrian throne, Archduke<br />
Franz Ferdinand, and his pregnant wife were assassinated<br />
on 28 June 1914 by a Bosnian Serb nationalist, Gavrilo<br />
Princip. Beyond a plaque at the site and a small museum<br />
nearby little fuss is made of its notoriety but standing here<br />
you are at the place where Princip fired his pistol and where<br />
the rest, as they say, is history.<br />
The pseudo-Moorish Vijećnica<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
31
32 What to see<br />
Morica Han B-4, Saraci 77. Morica Han dates from<br />
1551 and is the best preserved inn in Sarajevo. Its beautiful<br />
cobbled courtyard is surrounded by old stables and store<br />
houses and lodging rooms upstairs. Now home to a<br />
restaurant and a youth organisation. There is also a carpet<br />
shop with stacks of rugs where stables used to be. You‘re<br />
free to stroll around, have a coffee or something to eat, or<br />
buy a beautiful carpet.<br />
National Library B-4, Mustaj-pasin mejdan, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 275 301, fax (+387) 33 218 431, nubbih@<br />
nub.ba, www.nub.ba. The National Library, once the town<br />
hall and now called Vijecnica, was constructed by Alexander<br />
Wittek in 1896. On 25 August 1992 a shell fired from the<br />
lines of the Serbian forces besieging Sarajevo wiped out a<br />
large part of the Bosnian literary heritage that was kept in<br />
the building - over two million books and documents went<br />
up in flames. As the plaque outside cautions, ‘Do not forget,<br />
remember and warn!’ Restoration work is still ongoing and<br />
Vijecnica is almost entirely boarded-up, although a stroll<br />
around the outside of this battered but still beautiful building<br />
is well worth the walk and art exhibitions are held from time<br />
to time in the shattered interior.<br />
Orthodox Cathedral B-4, Zelenih Beretki bb. <strong>In</strong>side<br />
the large, wonderfully cool and calming interior of the<br />
Church of the Most Holy Mother of God, which dates from<br />
1868, are large iconostases holding icons made in Russia,<br />
installed here by Russian masons sent by Tsar Alexander<br />
II. As a proof of religious tolerance, Sultan Abdul Aziz, and<br />
the Prince of Serbia donated 500 gold ducats towards the<br />
construction of the building. Serb forces shot up their own<br />
church during the war and the Greek government is now<br />
involved in helping restore the damage. Once you feel that<br />
you’ve soaked up enough of the spiritual you can wander<br />
outside this imposing multi-domed, pale mustard-colored<br />
building and watch the men playing chess on the giant board<br />
just outside on the square.<br />
Orthodox Cathedral<br />
Get ready to haggle<br />
Orthodox Church B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije<br />
59. Sitting between the mosques is the ancient Serbian<br />
Orthodox church of St. Michael the Archangel, which dates<br />
from medieval times: the foundations and the unusual<br />
arcade structures are even early Christian, from the 5th and<br />
6th century. A tad unprepossessing outside, the interior is<br />
beautiful with gilded icons and a balcony lit by candles and<br />
low light, and the scent of incense in the air. <strong>In</strong>side glass<br />
cases are a few anatomical relics of saints such as bones.<br />
The current structure that dates from 1740 was ironically<br />
badly damaged by Serb shells during the siege.<br />
Sebilj B-4, . If you are already wondering how soon you can<br />
make a return visit to Sarajevo take a drink from the public<br />
fountain in Sebilj square and, according to local legend,<br />
you won’t stay away for long. Built in 1891 from a design<br />
by Czech architect Alexander Wittek, the stone and timber<br />
Moorish-style fountain is the centerpiece of the main square<br />
in the old town. You can stroll between the restaurants and<br />
souvenir shops and watch the pigeons that give the square<br />
its better-known name descend on anyone kindly or foolhardy<br />
enough to pay a mark for a cup of corn - literally birdfeed for<br />
bird food. And if you want a cup of real Bosnian coffee, here<br />
is the place to get both it and a ringside seat for watching<br />
Sarajevo stroll by.<br />
Svrzo’s House C-4, Glodina 8, tel. (+387) 33 53 52<br />
64. Svrzo’s House reflects the lifestyle of a wealthy Muslim<br />
family lifestyle during the time of the Ottoman Empire. Visitors<br />
can inspect the separate living quarters of the men, women<br />
and servants and note the spacious comfort of the rooms<br />
used for receiving and entertaining guests. The house is in<br />
an extremely well-preserved condition, especially considering<br />
that it is constructed completely from wood, a building<br />
material not commonly used in the region in relatively modern<br />
times. A quiet courtyard would have provided the occupants<br />
with a pleasant and private outdoor sitting area, as it now<br />
does for the visitor, but it is the interior that provides the<br />
most interest. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Public transport<br />
Gras Public Transport Operator Ćumurija 4, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 20 38 19/(+387) 33 29 33 33, fax (+387)<br />
33 45 21 86, gras@gras.co.ba, www.gras.co.ba. The<br />
main bus, tram and troley city operator is the company GRAS<br />
. You can buy city bus tickets at almost any news stand in<br />
the Sarajevo. The first ride is at 05:00 and the last at 01:00<br />
a.m. Detail schedule is available in their office or on their web<br />
page. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. The ticket price is KM 1.60 from<br />
kiosks or KM 2 on the bus or trams. Daily tickets cost KM<br />
5.40, weekly KM 12 and monthly KM 54.<br />
Bus travel<br />
Both of Sarajevo’s bus stations are busy places, especially<br />
the main one near the train station which serves the<br />
Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international<br />
destinations.<br />
If you arrive here you can get a tram (number 1) or bus into<br />
the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6KM. There is also an<br />
ATM here and a few cafes and bars nearby if the journey has<br />
been long, gruelling or both.<br />
If you are coming from or heading to a destination in the<br />
Republika Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will<br />
arrive at or depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo)<br />
bus station in east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes<br />
of the city and you can either get a taxi into town (about<br />
25KM) or a bus from the local terminal which is about a<br />
200 metre walk from the station. Cash can be obtained from<br />
the machine at the nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage<br />
at this bus station is predominately in Cyrillic script. If you<br />
are getting a taxi to the bus station make sure your driver<br />
knows which one you want - you can do this by explaining<br />
your destination to him.<br />
Main Bus Station Put života 8, tel. (+387) 33 213<br />
100/(+387) 33 213 010, fax (+387) 33 445 442, ctsbus@pksa.com.ba,<br />
www.centrotrans.com. The main bus<br />
operator is Centrotrans at the bus station.<br />
Train travel<br />
Bosnia’s rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the<br />
war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation.<br />
Most international visitors arriving by train will be coming<br />
from Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at<br />
18:30 and 06:25 respectively. There is also a train to and<br />
from Ploče on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth<br />
looking into as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sarajevo’s<br />
train station is right near the bus station and you<br />
can get into the heart of town via a bus, tram or 5 - 6KM<br />
taxi ride. There is no ATM at the station but there is one<br />
about 200 metres away at the bus station - just turn right<br />
when you come out of the station, go around and past the<br />
main post office and the bus station is straight ahead.<br />
Train Station Sarajevo Put života 2, tel. (+387) 33 65<br />
53 30. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Air travel<br />
Sarajevo airport (<strong>In</strong>ternational Airport Butmir) is small and<br />
rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration<br />
and customs queues that plague many of Europe’s other<br />
capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports<br />
including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar<br />
and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
getting around<br />
scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are<br />
to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a<br />
cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the<br />
12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (€10-12.50). As with all<br />
international airports, it’s not unheard of for taxi drivers to<br />
overcharge for a ride into town, especially if you’re a foreigner<br />
- make sure the metre is switched on before you depart.<br />
Public Transport<br />
Bus Lines<br />
14 Dom Armije - Podhrastovi<br />
15 Marin Dvor - Buća potok<br />
15B Otoka - Buća potok<br />
16 Dom Armije - Bare<br />
16A Dom Armije - Koševsko brdo II<br />
16B Dom Armije - Koševsko brdo<br />
17 Dom Armije - Breka<br />
17B Dom Armije - Breka II<br />
18 Drvenija - Pofalići<br />
20 Park - Jagomir<br />
20A Park - Jezero20B Park - Šip<br />
21 Sutjeska - Vogošća<br />
21A Sutjeska - Malešići<br />
22 Sutjeska - Ilijaš - Lješevo<br />
22A Stup - Vogošća<br />
23 Marin Dvor - Rajlovac<br />
23A Marin Dvor - Reljevo dom<br />
23C Otoka - Boljakov potok<br />
26 Stup - Dobroševići - Ahatovići<br />
27 Ilidža - Hrasnica<br />
27A Ilidža - Sokolovići<br />
27B Ilidža - Kovači (Hrasnica)<br />
28 Ilidža - Rakovica - Kobiljača<br />
30 Ilidža - Hadžići<br />
31 Nedžarići - Dobrinja<br />
31E Vijećnica - Dobrinja<br />
32 Ilidža - Butmir<br />
33 Ilidža - Tarčin - Vukovići<br />
34 Marin Dvor - Kiseljak<br />
35 Sutjeska - Bakići<br />
36 Nedžarići - Naselje Aerodrom<br />
37 Grbavica - Lukavica - Ilidža<br />
41 Drvenija - Gornji Velešići<br />
41A Drvenija - Donji Velešići<br />
42 Otoka - Dobrinja43 Ilidža - Osijek<br />
44 Franje Račkog - Bjelašnica<br />
45 Ilidža - Dejčići<br />
46 Ilidža - Vlakovo<br />
47 Ilidža - Trnovo<br />
48 Ilidža - Delijaši<br />
Tram Lines<br />
1 Željeznička stanica - Baščaršija<br />
2 Čengić vila - Baščaršija<br />
3 Ilidža - Baščaršija<br />
4 Željeznička stanica - Ilidža<br />
5 Nedžarići - Baščaršija<br />
6 Ilidža - Skenderija<br />
7 Nedžarići - Skenderija<br />
Trolley Lines<br />
101 Otoka - Drvenija<br />
103 Dobrinja - Drvenija<br />
104 Alipašino Polje - Drvenija<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
33
34 getting around<br />
Local bus schedule<br />
From Sarajevo To Sarajevo<br />
First Last City First Last # / day<br />
05:00 23:30 Banja<br />
Luka<br />
05:00 17:00 6<br />
07:30 22:00 Bihać 07:30 22:00 3-4<br />
05:00 05:00 Bijeljina 16:10 16:10 1<br />
14:30 14:30 Bosanska<br />
Dubica<br />
22:30 22:30 1<br />
12:15 12:15 Bosanski<br />
Brod<br />
05:54 05:54 1<br />
06:30 15:35 Brčko 05:00 15:00 3<br />
06:45 20:45 Breza 05:45 19:20 10-22<br />
10:00 19:00 Bugojno 05:45 17:30 3-4<br />
10:30 14:30 Busovača 06:40 12:15 2<br />
15:30 15:30 Cazin 23:50 23:50 1<br />
10:00 10:00 Čapljina 17:30 17:30 1<br />
07:20 07:20 Čelić 07:00 07:00 1<br />
07:45 18:30 Derventa 07:45 15:45 2<br />
07:45 18:30 Doboj 08.30 16:30 2<br />
07:30 22:00 Donji<br />
Vakuf<br />
06:05 01:40 9 - 10<br />
05:30 19:55 Fojnica 05:30 19:30 8<br />
08:00 08:00 Goražde 16:30 16:30 1<br />
08:30 08:30 Goražde 14:30 14:30 1<br />
14:00 14:00 Gornji<br />
Rahići<br />
06:35 06:35 1<br />
08:30 17:00 Gradačac 05:30 13:45 2<br />
10:00 10:00 Hadžići 20:15 20:15 1<br />
10:00 10:00 Jablanica 19:05 19:05 1<br />
07:30 22:00 Jajce 07:10 00:50 6<br />
05:45 20:50 Kakanj 05:00 20:00 13-22<br />
05:30 20:50 Kiseljak 06:00 20:00 8-13<br />
07:30 22:00 Ključ 06:00 23:40 4<br />
10:00 10:00 Konjic 19:30 19:30 1<br />
12:15 14:30 Maglaj 03:20 07:45 2<br />
06:00 17:00 Mostar 06:00 18:15 8-11<br />
10:00 10:00 Neum 16:30 16:30 1<br />
13:00 13:00 Novi<br />
Travnik<br />
07:10 07:10 1<br />
05:00 20:00 Olovo 06:10 18:45 15-16<br />
10:00 14:00 Pale 11:00 15:00 2<br />
00:30 00:30 Prijedor 05:30 05:30 1<br />
07:45 18:30 Prijedor 05:30 05:30 1-2<br />
07:45 18:30 Prnjavor 07:15 15:15 2<br />
07:00 15:50 Renovica 06:00 15:50 2<br />
15:30 15:30 Sanski<br />
Most<br />
05:00 05:00 1<br />
07:10 07:10 Srebrenica 16:30 16:30 1<br />
14:30 17:00 Stolac 06:10 11:10 2<br />
07:00 17:15 Tešanj 06:30 15:30 3<br />
07:30 22:00 Travnik 02:45 06:50 11-12<br />
05:00 18:00 Tuzla 04:00 18:00 14-15<br />
05:00 18:00 05:30 18:00 13<br />
06:45 20:45 Vareš 05:30 18:45 7-8<br />
15:30 15:30 Velika<br />
Kladuša<br />
23:00 23:00 1<br />
06:00 21:30 Visoko 05:30 20:30 11-23<br />
07:30 22:00 Vitez 07:10 19:20 7-11<br />
05:30 21:00 Zenica 06:00 20:30 10-21<br />
05:40 15:30 Zvornik 06:00 16:45 3<br />
12:15 14:30 Žepče 03:40 07:30 2<br />
Adria Airways Ferhadija 23/2, tel. (+387) 33 23 21<br />
25/(+387) 33 46 43 31, fax (+387) 33 23 36 92, adr.<br />
sarajevo@adria.si, www.adria.si. The national Slovenian<br />
airline flies regularly to Sarajevo. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. A<br />
Austrian Airlines Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33<br />
28 92 42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, fax (+387) 33 45 12<br />
13, office.sjj@aua.com, www.aua.com. Austrian Airways<br />
operates flights from Vienna to Sarajevo. The Austrian airport<br />
office also represents Lufthansa. QOpen 05:30 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
BH Airlines Branilaca grada broj 15, tel./fax (+387)<br />
33 55 01 26, tel. (+387) 33 55 01 25, agencija@<br />
bhairlines.ba, www.airbosna.ba. The national airline<br />
carrier of Bosnia & Herzegovina. Q A<br />
Butmir <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport Kurta Schorka 36, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 28 91 00, www.sarajevo-airport.ba. QOpen<br />
06:30 - 22:00. AGKX<br />
Croatia Airlines Kranjčevićeva 4/I, tel. (+387) 33 66<br />
61 23/(+387) 33 25 86 00, fax (+387) 33 258 600,<br />
sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr, www.croatiaairlines.hr. The<br />
national airline of Croatia. Operates flights to Sarajevo from<br />
Zagreb. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lufthansa Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 28 92<br />
42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, www.lufthansa.de. The German<br />
airline operates services from Koln, Stuttgart, Munchen and<br />
Frankfurt to Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Malev Zelenih beretki 6, tel. (+387) 33 21 62<br />
40/(+387) 33 47 32 01, fax (+387) 33 46 71 05,<br />
sarajevo@malev.hu, www.malev.hu. The national<br />
Hungarian airline operates services from Budapest to<br />
Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 15:30.<br />
Turkish Airlines Kulovica 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 29<br />
38/(+387) 33 46 57 31, fax (+387) 33 47 03 31, www.<br />
thy.com. The Turkish airline operates regular services from<br />
<strong>In</strong>stanbul to Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Car rental<br />
Avis Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 46 99 33/(+387)<br />
33 289 278, fax (+387) 33 474 055, info@avis.ba,<br />
www.avis.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. A<br />
CITO Dzemala Bijedica 185 - Hotel Radon Plaza, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 76 98 90/(+387) 63 83 00 14, fax (+387)<br />
33 76 98 91, info@cito.ba, www.cito.ba. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00.<br />
Europcar Bulevar Mese Selimovica 16, tel. (+387)<br />
33 76 03 60, fax (+387) 33 76 03 61, reservation@<br />
europcar.ba, www.europcar.ba. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. .<br />
Rabbit Akifa Šeremeta 58, tel. (+387) 62 22 99<br />
11/(+387) 61 96 62 93, info@rabbit.ba, www.rabbit.<br />
ba. Rents Smart cars from its location near the airport.<br />
Virtus Muvekita 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 36 26/(+387)<br />
33 22 36 26, fehim@virtus.ba, www.virtusrent.ba.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Car travel<br />
Sarajevo’s roads are much improved from a few years ago<br />
but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increasing<br />
volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly<br />
straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but<br />
once in the heart of town non-local drivers need to contend<br />
with narrow streets, lots of one-way and ‘No Entry’<br />
roads and the local drivers, who tend to be impatient<br />
behind the wheel and don’t mind using their horn to give a<br />
blast to anyone too slow to respond to a changed traffic<br />
signal. Those used to congested inner-cities won’t find it<br />
too much of a problem but the more hesitant may be best<br />
to leave the car parked at or near their hotel and use public<br />
transport, taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of<br />
which are less stressful and will give you the opportunity<br />
to see and experience a lot more than if you are gripping<br />
the wheel and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the<br />
problem of finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded<br />
centre. Drivers are required by law to have their headlights<br />
on at all times. This is mainly for safety reasons and when<br />
you enter one of Bosnia’s long tunnels you’ll be glad it is<br />
so. Another safety factor to bear in mind is that roads can<br />
be hazardous during the winters, with ice, fog and snow<br />
providing a challenge to all but the most experienced of<br />
mountainous terrain in winter drivers.<br />
Taxis<br />
Do not be surprised with the state of some of the cars you<br />
get into. There is no standard for vehicles that can be used<br />
as taxis in Sarajevo. Some of the taxi drivers can be very<br />
nice and polite but a large number of them are not. Don’t<br />
be surprised if your taxi driver lights up a cigarette or turns<br />
up the volume on his stereo just because his favourite turbo<br />
folk song is on the radio.<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
getting around<br />
Local train schedule<br />
From Sarajevo To Sarajevo<br />
First Last City First Last # /<br />
day<br />
06:45 18:18 Bačević 07:26 18:28 2<br />
10:27 21:20 Banja Luka 13:15 01:24 2<br />
07:10 19:30 Blažuj 06:24 18:36 3<br />
10:27 21:20 Bosanski<br />
novi<br />
11:44 23:51 2<br />
07:14 07:14 Bosanski<br />
Šamac<br />
16:48 16:48 1<br />
06:45 19:30 Bradina 05:44 20:11 2-3<br />
06:45 18:18 Čapljina 7:00 18:02 2<br />
06:45 18:18 ČelebićI 08:43 19:40 2<br />
10:27 21:20 Čelinac 13:29 01:38 2<br />
07:14 21:20 Doboj 03:26 18:14 3<br />
04:40 19:11 Dobrinje 05:58 20:07 6<br />
10:27 21:20 Dragalovci 14:29 02:42 2<br />
06:45 18:18 Drežnica 08:00 19:02 2<br />
04:40 19:11 Drivuša 05:24 15:38 5<br />
07:10 19:30 Grad 05:34 17:38 3<br />
06:45 19:30 Hadžići 06:15 20:39 2-3<br />
06:45 18:18 Jablanica 05:49 19:26 2-6<br />
07:14 21:20 Kakanj 05:28 20:17 3<br />
06:45 19:30 Konjic 05:14 19:47 2-3<br />
06:45 18:18 Kručevići 07:11 18:13 2<br />
04:40 19:11 Lašva 05:32 15:46 5<br />
07:14 21:20 Maglaj 03:54 18:42 3<br />
07:14 07:14 Modriča 17:09 17:09 1<br />
04:40 19:11 Modrinje 05:40 15:54 5<br />
06:45 18:18 Mostar 07:38 18:40 2<br />
10:27 21:20 Omarska 12:36 00:45 2<br />
06:45 18:18 Ostrožac 08:36 19:33 2<br />
07:10 19:30 Ovčari 05:24 17:28 3<br />
06:45 19:30 Pazarić 06:06 20:31 2-3<br />
04:40 21:20 Podlugovi 05:52 20:41 3-5<br />
10:27 21:20 Prijedor 18:18 00:26 2<br />
04:40 19:11 Rajlovac 06:40 20:49 5<br />
07:10 19:30 Raštelica 05:55 17:59 3<br />
04:40 19:11 Semizovac 06:30 20:39 5<br />
21:20 21:20 Stanari 02:49 02:49 1<br />
06:45 18:18 Šurmanici 07:09 18:11 2<br />
10:27 21:20 Ukrina 14:02 02:19 2<br />
04:40 21:20 Visoko 05:45 20:34 3-6<br />
07:14 21:20 Zavidovići 04:15 19:03 3<br />
04:40 21:20 Zenica 05:02 19:51 3-5<br />
07:14 21:20 Žepče 16:11 04:26 3<br />
06:45 18:18 Žitomislići 07:17 18:19 2<br />
clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
35
36 getting around<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational bus schedule<br />
From Sarajevo To Sarajevo<br />
Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr. One way (€)<br />
- 2 - - - - - 08:00 13:10 Amsterdam - 2 - - - - - 08:00 13:10 118<br />
- 2 - - - - - 08:00 10:25 Antwerpen - 2 - - - - - 10:45 13:10 114<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 13:10 Belgrade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 12:45 21<br />
16:00 23:10 Belgrade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 22:45<br />
- - - 4 - - - 08:00 07:40 Berlin - - - - - 6 - 10:00 09:40 88<br />
- - - - - 6 - 09:30 11:30 Berlin - - - - 5 - - 17:00 16:15 107<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:00 17:05 Berlin 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 11:00 82<br />
1 2 3 4 - 6 7 08:00 15:20 Dortmund 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 05:00 12:35 133<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 15:50 Dubrovnik 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 20:50 23<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 09:20 Frankfurt 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:00 12:35 108<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 21:00 Gotenborg 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:30 00:00 144<br />
- - - - - 6 - 09:30 01:30 Gotenborg - - - - 5 - - 02:30 16:15 152<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 19:15 Graz 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:15 07:55 40<br />
- - - - - 6 - 17:00 19:25 Hamburg - - - - 5 - - 05:00 07:40 133<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:00 18:50 Herceg Novi 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 15:50 23<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:05 01:50 <strong>In</strong>nsbruck 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 09:55 62<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 15:40 Copenhagen 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:30 00:00 135<br />
- - - - - 6 - 09:30 21:00 Copenhagen - - - - 5 - - 07:30 16:15 130<br />
- - - - - 6 - 09:30 04:45 Linkoping - - - 4 - - - 22:30 16:15 163<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 23:30 Linz 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 07:55 56<br />
- 2 - 4 - - 7 20:40 06:00 Ljubljana 1 -3 -5 - - 19:15 04:55 45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:15 03:10 Ljubljana 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:00 08:10 39<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 17:00 Malmo 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:30 00:00 135<br />
- - - - - 6 - 09:30 22:00 Malmo - - - - 5 - - 06:30 16:15 130<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 02:50 München 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 12:35 65<br />
- - - - - 6 - 17:00 08:10 München - - - - 5 - - 16:25 07:40<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 22:00 Novi Pazar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:15 17:00 15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 05:45 Novi Pazar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 20:30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 14:00 Novi Pazar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 14:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 04:30 Novi Pazar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 05:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:15 02:10 Novo mesto 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 08:10 35<br />
- - - - - 6 - 09:30 06:00 Oslo - - - 4 - - - 21:30 16:15 171<br />
- - - - 5 - - 09:00 14:30 Paris - - - - - - 7 14:00 17:30 133<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:00 04:30 Pula 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 02:45 45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 02:50 Rijeka 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 02:45 39<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:05 23:20 Salzburg 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:35 09:55 57<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 13:50 Slavonski Brod 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:10 22:30 15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 21:10 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 12:45 24<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 18:00 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 22:20 24<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 04:30 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 17:30 24<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 13:35 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 14:25 24<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 18:00 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 17:30 24<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 02:00 Stockholm 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 00:00 158<br />
- - - - - 6 - 09:30 08:30 Stockholm - - - 4 - - - 17:00 16:15 163<br />
- 2 - - -6 - 08:30 09:00 Stockholm - 2 - - 5 - - 16:00 17:30 182<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 22:45 Vienna 1 2 3 4 - 6 7 18:00 08:45 49<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:15 23:30 Vienna 1 2 3 4 - 6 7 18:00 06:00 44<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 23:55 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:50 02:45 31<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 14:50 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 14:50 35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:30 20:55 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:30 20:55 35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 06:00 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 06:00 35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 16:00 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:45 22:30 23<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
The standard starting rate for taxis and the rate per kilometre<br />
is € 2 and €0.75 per kilometer. One hour waiting rate is € 7.5<br />
There is no difference in price if you order a taxi in advance. There<br />
are at least 50 different taxi ranks in the city. To get a taxi you just<br />
need to stand on the street and stop one or simply call one of the<br />
taxi services. There are about 1.200 taxis in the city.<br />
Samir i Emir taxi Travnicka 35, tel. (+387) 33 66 76<br />
81. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Sarajevo taxi Tel. (+387) 33 15 15/(+387) 33 66 06<br />
66, www.sarajevotaxi.com.ba. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Zuti taxi Bana Mateja Ninoslava 18, tel. (+387) 33<br />
66 35 55. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Travel Agents<br />
Centrotrans-eurolines d.d. Sarajevo Kurta Shorka<br />
bb, tel. (+387) 33 464 040/(+387) 33 464 045,<br />
ferhadija16@hotmail.com, info@centrotrans.com,<br />
www.centrotrans.com, www.centrotours.ba. They<br />
speak English and German.<br />
Otas Maršala Tita 38d, tel. (+387) 33 221 410/(+387)<br />
33 221 420, otas@otas.ba, www.otas.ba.<br />
Relaxtours Terazije bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 012/(+387) 33<br />
263 190, relaxtours@relaxtours.com, www.relaxtours.com.<br />
Relax tours is the leading bosnian travel agency established in 1989<br />
and the first privately held travel agency in Bosnia and Herzegovina.<br />
These travel agents also speak English and German.<br />
One of Sarajevo’s trademark trams<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
getting around<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational train schedule<br />
From Sarajevo To Sarajevo<br />
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.<br />
07:14 14:10 Beli manastir 14:22 21:09<br />
07:14 17:20 Belgrade 06:20 21:39<br />
07:14 18:58 Budapest 09:25 21:09<br />
07:50 09:45 Đakovo 05:21 07:10<br />
12:00 13:55 Dombovar 08:57 10:52<br />
10:27 18:05 Hrvatska kostajnica 10:39 18:05<br />
21:20 05:01 Hrvatska kostajnica 22:39 06:20<br />
10:27 19:10 Lekenik 09:33 18:05<br />
21:20 06:07 Lekenik 21:31 06:20<br />
10:27 23:50 Ljubljana 06:15 18:18<br />
07:14 14:38 Magyarboly 13:40 21:09<br />
06:45 10:07 Metkovići 06:35 10:02<br />
18:18 21:44 Metkovići 17:34 20:59<br />
10:27 06:15 Munich 11:26 06:20<br />
21:20 16:32 Munich 23:45 18:18<br />
07:14 13:15 Osijek 14:54 21:09<br />
07:14 15:55 Pecs 12:40 21:09<br />
06:45 10:41 Ploče 06:05 10:02<br />
18:18 22:16 Ploče 17:00 20:59<br />
07:14 17:36 Sarbogard 10:49 21:09<br />
07:14 16:32 Sasd 11:52 21:09<br />
10:27 18:53 Sisak 09:52 18:05<br />
18:05 05:41 Sisak 21:50 06:20<br />
10:27 18:46 Sisak caprag 09:59 18:05<br />
21:20 05:48 Sisak caprag 21:58 06:20<br />
07:14 11:50 Slavonski Šamac 16:03 21:09<br />
07:14 12:27 Strizivojna - Vrpolje 15:46 21:09<br />
10:27 18:23 Sunja 10:22 18:05<br />
21:20 05:18 Sunja 22:22 06:20<br />
07:14 16:10 Szentlorinc 12:15 21:09<br />
10:27 19:31 Velika Gorica 09:14 18:05<br />
21:20 06:26 Velika Gorica 21:09 06:20<br />
10:27 07:16 Venice 21:27 18:18<br />
07:14 14:44 Villany 13:13 21:09<br />
10:27 17:56 Volinja 11:03 18:05<br />
21:20 04:28 Volinja 23:08 06:20<br />
21:20 13:55 Vienna 06:04 21:09<br />
10:27 19:47 Zagreb 08:47 18:05<br />
21:20 06:43 Zagreb 20:59 06:20<br />
Valid until December 1, 2009.<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
37
38 getting around<br />
Relaxing by the river in Vilsonovo<br />
Flight schedule<br />
From Sarajevo To Sarajevo<br />
Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr.<br />
- - 3 - - 6 - 07:00 07:15 Banja Luka (JA) - - 3 - - 6 - 13:30 13:45<br />
1 - - - - - - 15:30 15:45 Banja Luka (JA) 1 - - - - - - 22:00 22:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 07:15 Beograd (JU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:40 22:10<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:20 16:25 Budapest (MA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 15:55<br />
- - - 4 - - 7 15:00 17:25 Frankfurt (JA) - - - 4 - - 7 21:00 23:20<br />
- 2 - - - - - 08:45 10:30 Stuttgart (4U) - 2 - - - - - 06:35 08:15<br />
- 2 - - - - - 18:35 20:20 Stuttgart (4U) - 2 - - - - - 16:25 18:05<br />
- - - - - 6 - 12:25 14:10 Stuttgart (4U) - - - - - 6 - 10:15 11:55<br />
1 - - - 4 - 6 - 14:55 17:45 Istanbul (TK) 1 - - - 4 - 6 - 13:55 14:45<br />
- 2 3 - 5 - 7 18:15 21:05 Istanbul (TK) - 2 3 - 5 - 7 17:15 18:05<br />
- 2 - 4 - - - 13:45 15:45 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) - 2 - - 4 - - 13:15 15:15<br />
- - - - - 6 - 15:55 17:55 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) - - - 4 - - - 13:40 15:40<br />
- - - 4 - 6 - 14:10 16:10 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) - - - - - 6 - 15:25 17:25<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:25 17:20 Ljubljana (JP) - - - - - - 7 14:55 15:50<br />
- - - - - - 7 15:25 16:20 Ljubljana (JP) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:55 16:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 06:15 09:25 Istambul (JA) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 11:00 12:10<br />
- 2 - - - - - 13:45 15:50 Duesseldorf (JA) - 2 - - - - - 16:40 18:45<br />
- 2 - - - - - 15:00 17:05 Duesseldorf (JA) - 2 - - - - - 17:55 20:00<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 - 06:35 08:05 Munich (LH) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 12:25 13:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 13:00 14:30 Munich (LH) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 20:50 22:15<br />
Beograd (SOP) 1 - - - - - - 10:45 11:30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - - 16:45 17:30 Beograd (SOP) - 2 3 4 5 - - 11:10 11:55<br />
- - 3 - 5 - - 10:05 13:00 Rygge (DY) - - 3 - 5 - - 09:25 12:20<br />
1 - - - - - - 11:30 12:45 Skopje (JA) 1 - - - - - - 14:45 16:05<br />
- - - 4 - - - 12:00 12:40 Podgorica (JA) - - - - - - 7 14:45 15:30<br />
- - - - - - 7 13:15 14:00 Podgorica (JA) - - - 4 - - - 16:15 17:00<br />
1 - - 4 - - - 12:00 14:35 Copenhagen (JA) 1 - - 4 - - - 15:35 18:05<br />
- - 3 - - 6 - 10:10 13:00 Stockholm (DY) - - 3 - - 6 - 09:25 12:20<br />
1 - 3 - - - - 07:00 08:35 Vienna (JA) - 2 - 4 5 - - 17:00 18:20<br />
- 2 - 4 5 6 7 13:30 14:50 Vienna (JA)<br />
- - - - - 6 - 07:30 10:15 Goteborg (JA) - - - 4 - - - 03:30 06:15<br />
- - 3 - - - - 12:00 14:45 Goteborg (JA) - - - - - 6 - 11:15 14:00<br />
- - 3 - - - - 22:00 00:45 Goteborg (JA) - - 3 - - - - 15:40 18:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:50 09:10 Vienna (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40 15:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:25 16:40 Vienna (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 22:10<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 07:15 Zagreb (OU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:30 16:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:15 17:15 Zagreb (OU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 22:45<br />
- 2 - 4 - - - 07:30 09:55 Zurich (JA) - 2 - 4 5 - 7 12:30 14:55<br />
- - - - 5 - 7 07:15 09:30 Zurich (JA)<br />
Airline codes: JP Adria Airways; JU Jat Airways; MA Malev; OS Austrian Airlines; TK Turkish Airlines; RA Icar air; LH Lufthansa;<br />
BA British Airways; JA BH Airlines; 4U germanwings ; DY norvegian.no; OU Croatia Airlines; SOP Solinair<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
<strong>In</strong>ternet<br />
To log in over a phone line with a local dialup method contact<br />
one of the following providers:<br />
BH Telekom +387 33 212 277,<br />
M-Tel Phone: +387 57 310 490,<br />
Eronet +387 33 259 970Wifi is available in some hotels,<br />
restaurants and bars. Free wifi in the city can be found<br />
in: Business center UNITIC, Hotel Holiday <strong>In</strong>n, Bus station<br />
Sarajevo, BH Telecom Center, main post office.<br />
e-Agent 29 Brace Begic. Situated in Kosevko Brdo,<br />
across from the Chinese embassy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Cost: 1km/30 mins.<br />
Gemini <strong>In</strong>ternet Cafe B-3, Šenoina 16. Situated across<br />
the street from Marsala Tita. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terLink Centar B-4, Obala Kulina bana 7/III, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 20 59 43. Q Prices are more or less same at<br />
all <strong>In</strong>ternet cafes. Cost: €1 for one hour, €2,5 for three hours,<br />
€4 for five hours, €7.5 for 10 hours.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet CAFÉ AltarITC C-2, Husrefa Redzica 3, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 44 08 15/(+387) 61 22 25 65. Q Prices are<br />
more or less same at all <strong>In</strong>ternet cafes. Cost: €1 for one hour,<br />
€2,5 for three hours, €4 for five hours, €7.5 for 10 hours.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet Cafe Cyber Uyun Komerc. On the street across<br />
Mula Mustafe Bašeskje, the street behind the Cathedral.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Cost: 1KM/20 mins.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet Club Click B-4, Kundurdžiluk 1, tel. (+387)<br />
33 236 914. <strong>In</strong> the center, across from hotel Astra. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Cost: 1km/20 mins.<br />
Virtual Spot B-3; B-4, Petrakijna 6, tel. (+387) 33 20<br />
05 99/(+387) 61 19 89 28, virtual@bih.net.ba, www.<br />
v-spot.ba. This spot offers one of the best deals in town.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 1 hour - 2KM, 3 hour - 5KM, 5 hour -<br />
8KM, 10 hour - 15KM, 50 hour - 65KM, 100 hour - 100KM.<br />
ZemZem B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskje 61, tel. (+387) 33<br />
239 648/(+387) 61 804 200. Q Cost: 1KM/20 mins.<br />
<strong>In</strong>side the central post office<br />
Mobile phones<br />
All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards, available for<br />
sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands,<br />
bookshops, shopping centers etc.The basic set-up costs<br />
for all mobile providers is from 5-10 EUR.You do not need to<br />
show any forms of ID to get a SIM card. There is no place in<br />
Sarajevo or at the airport to rent a mobile phone.<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
Mail & Phones<br />
BH Telecom (061, 062) B-4, Obala Kulina bana<br />
8, tel. (+387) 33 21 22 77, fax (+387) 33 21 22 88,<br />
www.bhmobile.ba. All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM<br />
cards. They are for sale in operators offices, post offices,<br />
newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc. You<br />
don’t need to show ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00<br />
- 20:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile<br />
providers is 5-10 EUR.<br />
Eronet (063) B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 19, tel. (+387)<br />
33 25 99 70, fax (+387) 33 25 99 71, www.eronet.ba.<br />
All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for<br />
sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands,<br />
bookshops, shopping centers etc. You don’t need to show<br />
ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile<br />
providers is 5-10 EUR.<br />
M-tel (065, 066) Trg ilidžanskih boraca bb, tel. (+387)<br />
57 31 04 90, fax (+387) 57 310 490, www.mtel.ba. All<br />
operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for sale<br />
in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops,<br />
shopping centers etc. You don’t need to show ID to<br />
get a SIM card. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers<br />
is 5-10 EUR.<br />
Mailing<br />
These are the main international express mail companies<br />
and the main post office in Sarajevo.Every post office and<br />
bank in the city offers currency exchange cash into/from<br />
euros.<br />
DHL Dzemala Bijedica 166, tel. (+387) 33 77 40 00,<br />
www.dhl.ba. QOpen 08:00.<br />
EMS B-1, Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 17 17,<br />
www.bhp.ba. QOpen 08:00.<br />
FedEx Brace Mulic 48, tel. (+387) 33 77 32 50, www.<br />
fedex.co.ba.<br />
Main Post Office (Glavna pošta Sarajevo) B-1, B-2,<br />
Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 14 44/(+387) 33<br />
14 23, fax (+387) 33 65 04 07. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Postal Rates:<br />
Letters.<br />
Public phones<br />
There is only one public phone company in the city. All<br />
payphones are card-operated. You can get a card in<br />
every post office. The instructions on the telephones<br />
are in English too. Calling cards cost 1 Euro, 2 Euros,<br />
etc.<br />
Making calls<br />
When you are: calling within the city, only dial the 6<br />
subscriber number digits calling from the city to another<br />
city: dial city code with the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber<br />
number calling from abroad to the city: dial country code,<br />
city code without the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber<br />
number. calling to a local mobile number: dial mobile<br />
number with the zero.<br />
Local phone codes<br />
Sarajevo 033 Banja Luka 051<br />
Bihać 037 Mostar 036<br />
Tuzla 035<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
39
40 shoPPing<br />
You can spend hours upon hours browsing through quaint<br />
boutiques, workshops and large department stores within<br />
the bustling old town alleyways or along the main shopping<br />
streets. Here is a selection of shops that may be worth a<br />
visit - buy anything from books, souvenirs to clothes, art<br />
and flowers.<br />
Art<br />
Art Gallery B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4 - Holiday <strong>In</strong>n,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 28 80 00, holiday@bih.net.net.ba. The<br />
art gallery is located on the mezzanine floor. You can take<br />
a look at the paintings of Mersad Berber, one of the most<br />
reknowned Bosnian & Herzegovinian painters.<br />
Art Shop B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 24. Original and unique<br />
pieces of art and jewellery are on sale every Saturday at BKC.<br />
Q Open Sat 11:00-17:00<br />
Bookshops<br />
You can find translated Bosnian literature in English, German<br />
and Italian in the bookshops listed. You may be interested in<br />
the following famous/popular writers in Bosnia:<br />
Miljenko Jergović (Ruta Tannenbaum)<br />
Emir Imamović (Tajna Doline piramida)<br />
Nenad Veličković (100 zmajeva)<br />
Ozren Kebo (Sarajevo za početnike)<br />
Faruk Šehić (Transsarajevo, poetry)<br />
Buybook B-3, Radićeva 4, tel. (+387) 33 71 64<br />
51/(+387) 33 71 20 10, info@buybook.ba, www.buybook.<br />
ba. Almost the definition of a ‘good book shop’, Buybook has a<br />
range of titles in both Bosnian and other European languages<br />
along with postcards that go beyond the typical tourist type<br />
images. Add a coffee shop and no pressure to buy and you have<br />
an ideal place to stock up on reading material. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terliber Azize Sacirbegovic 100, tel. (+387) 33 712<br />
515, fax (+387) 33 712 516, info@interliber.com, www.<br />
interliber.com. <strong>In</strong>terliber bookshop offers a whole range of<br />
books - computers, history, literature, you name it and in local<br />
and international languages. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.<br />
TKD Šahinpašić B-4, Maršala Tita 29 & Vladislava<br />
Skarica 8, tel. (+387) 33 21 05 30/(+387) 33 77 11<br />
80, fax (+387) 33 77 11 88, info@btcsahinpasic.com,<br />
www.btcsahinpasic.com. Like buybook, Šahinpašić has<br />
a good range of titles including novels and non-fiction, with<br />
a wide selection of the myriad books written on the Bosnian<br />
conflict. It has many English language titles, very helpful staff,<br />
and the prevailing atmosphere is browse for as long as you<br />
like. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Grand Centar in Ilidža<br />
Fashion<br />
Bata C-3, Ćemaluša 3, and Kurta Šorka 7 - Wisa<br />
Shopping Centar, tel./fax (+387) 33 45 03 15, www.<br />
bata.com. Bata is one of the world’s leading footwear<br />
retailers and manufacturers.<br />
Calypso B-3; B-2, Titova 15 & Fra Andjela Zvizodvica 1,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 44 42 49/(+387) 33 20 76 63, fax (+387)<br />
33 20 76 63, info@calypso.ba, www.calypso.ba.<br />
Fontana shop B-4; B-2, Ferhadija 35, Zelenih beretki<br />
20, Kralja Tvrtka 27. Fortuna sells a range of cosmetics<br />
and perfumes for men and women.<br />
Granoff B-3; B-4, Ferhadija 34 & Titova 34, tel. (+387)<br />
33 55 22 52/(+387) 33 57 21 55, fax (+387) 33 76<br />
96 31, info@granoff.ba, www.granoff.ba. If you’ve got<br />
an important meeting in town or you have to be present at<br />
a wedding, don’t hestitate! You can pick a suit at Granoff<br />
which is the place to get fitted in one of the best men’s<br />
fashion boutiques.<br />
Marina Rinaldi B-3, Radićeva 12, tel. (+387) 33<br />
27 20 10.<br />
Martimex B-4; A-1, Strossmayerova 1 & Gradačačka<br />
1, tel. (+387) 33 200 983, martimex_stross@bih.net.<br />
ba. Perfumes for men and women. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Oviesse TC <strong>In</strong>tershop, Kolodvorska 12, www.oviesse.<br />
com/en. Italian fashion outlet for men, women, children and<br />
home accessories.<br />
Retro B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb RTC. This store<br />
sells funky, retro boots and shoes for men and women at<br />
resonable prices.<br />
Springfield B-4, Sime Milutinovica 12.<br />
Terranova B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 14, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 550 795/(+387) 33 550 796, www.<br />
terranova-on-line.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Theresa B-2, Fra Andjela Zvizdovica 1.<br />
Flowers<br />
Cvjećara Nerina 2 B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb.<br />
Cvjecara VI B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 59, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 23 37 14.<br />
Palma C-3, Bolnicka bb, tel. (+387) 33 44 53 45.<br />
Markets<br />
Sarajevo has plenty of open markets with fresh fruit and<br />
vegetables but also many other interesting items. The<br />
main city markets are open every day from early morning<br />
hours until 17:00 or 18:00. Bascarsija Market (crafts)<br />
Ciglane market (Flea market, vegetables and fruit) Markale<br />
market (vegetables, fruit and flowers) Flea market Stup<br />
(only on Sundays) Otoka Market (food and clothes)<br />
Shopping Centres<br />
BBI Centar B-3, Trg Sarajeva, tel. (+387) 33 560 500,<br />
info@bbicentar.ba, www.bbicentar.ba. The crème de<br />
la crème of Sarajevo’s shopping centres, it’s 43000m² of<br />
capitalism gone wild and the only modern mall in the centre<br />
of town. Opened back in April it took the place of the older<br />
Sarajka shopping centre that was one of the symbols of<br />
Sarajevo prior to the war. The architecture both inside and<br />
out is quite impressive - if perhaps not to everyone’s taste<br />
- and the selection of shops is the widest you’ll find anywhere<br />
in the city. Even if you’re not looking to shop the five floors<br />
of air conditioned asymmetry can be an attractive place<br />
to wander during the hot summer months. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Grand Centar Butmirska 14, tel. (+387) 33 626<br />
291. Yet another of the city’s brand new modern<br />
shopping centres, it’s part of the Sani Grand City<br />
development combining retail, municipal and residential<br />
space in the suburb of Ilidža. Anchored by a nearly<br />
3000m² Mercator Hypermarket the mall is home to all<br />
kinds of shops from fashion and footwear to books and<br />
electronics, and of course the prerequisite restaurants,<br />
children’s play area and more than enough parking.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Mercator Centar Ložionička 16, tel. (+387) 33 28 61<br />
50, www.mercator.ba. Sarajevo’s first modern shopping<br />
centre is still popular with locals. A bit out of the centre it’s<br />
relatively easily reached by tram, and parking is plentiful if<br />
you have your own transport. There’s the usual mix of local<br />
boutiques and large international chain stores including<br />
<strong>In</strong>tersport and Benetton, as well as a cheap cantina-style<br />
buffet and several other eateries. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Skenderija Shopping Centar A-2, Terezije bb, tel./<br />
fax (+387) 33 665 322, marketing@skenderija.ba,<br />
www.skenderija.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.<br />
VF Korea Put Zivota bb, trimont@bih.net.ba, www.<br />
trimont.com.ba.<br />
WISA Bačići bb, tel. (+387) 33 71 02 10/(+387) 61<br />
14 53 80, fax (+387) 33 71 02 11, maldoo@bih.net.<br />
ba, www.mal.ba.<br />
Souvenirs<br />
Baščaršija is a colourful market area of narrow streets,<br />
broad squares, mosques, cafés and scores of tiny<br />
handicraft, carpet, antique and souvenir shops. Most<br />
of the souvenir shops offer up the same wares - mugs<br />
and postcards, copper coffee sets and serving dishes<br />
and trays - but there are also some unique items to<br />
be found. The hundreds of thousands of shells and<br />
bullets that rained down on Sarajevo during the siege<br />
are now turned into pens and pepper pots, showing that<br />
the ingenuity of the citizens didn’t desert them once<br />
the hostilities ceased. Other interesting items include<br />
memorabilia from the Communist years and the Olympic<br />
weeks. Though the occasional hard-sell approach may<br />
make you feel you really are in Istanbul, the tinkling of<br />
the copper-workers’ hammers, the cobblestones and<br />
timber-fronted shops make Baščaršija a great place<br />
for wandering, looking, and no doubt buying something<br />
to take home with you.<br />
Bosnian Handicraft Knitwear Shop Cizmedžiluk<br />
1, tel. (+387) 33 551 535, bhcrafts@bih.net.ba,<br />
www.bhcrafts.org. Some of the best handmade gifts<br />
in town can be found here. Bosnian Handicraft sells<br />
handmade sweaters, gloves, scarfs and toys made by<br />
Bosnian women.<br />
Butik Badem Abadžiluk 12. If you’re looking for<br />
oriental spices and some amazing sweets and nuts<br />
then pay a visit to Butik Badem. The Turkish delights<br />
and candied almonds are something you’ve got to try.<br />
You’ll definitely find something you fancy there. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Gallery Nur Veliki Čurčiluk 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Kazandžiluk Street B-4, Kazandžiluk bb. The<br />
famous coppersmith trading place on the west side of<br />
Baščaršija. Here you’ll find great antiques, hand carved<br />
copper dishes and oriental decor. The best place in the<br />
old town to get your local coffee set souvenir.<br />
Kiko Rugs Trgovke 19, tel. (+387) 61 207 504. The<br />
shop has a nice selection of new and used rugs. They<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
shoPPing<br />
Hand-made metal work in Basščaršija<br />
are local specialists and also have a repair service. You<br />
will find it in a small street starting from the lower part<br />
of the Pigeon Square.<br />
Oriental Shoes B-4, Saraci 15. These oriental leather<br />
shoes are hand-made and embroidered by craftsmen of<br />
Kalajdzisalihovic M. Ahmed, proud of their tradition dating<br />
back to 1822. Q Price 55 EUR, other models from 25<br />
EUR, also available in textile.<br />
Souvenir shop B-4, Kazandžiluk 18a. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Vezenje B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 20, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 233 532/(+387) 61 172 998, vezenje@<br />
bih.net.ba, www.vezenje.ba. This small shop near<br />
the Markale market is the place to go if you’re looking<br />
for patches. From UN and EU to various police and<br />
paramilitary groups to sport teams and of course the<br />
1984 Winter Olympics, they have them all. The patches<br />
by themselves run KM3-5, but you can get them affixed<br />
to decent quality shirts starting at only KM15. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Sports<br />
BB Sport Shop B-4; A-2; B-1; B-2, Ferhadija 3, Terezije<br />
bb, Zmaja od Bosne bb (TC Robot Socijalno) , Mula<br />
Mustafe Bašeskije bb, tel. (+387) 33 222 333, info@<br />
bbsport.ba, www.bbsport.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
<strong>In</strong>tersport Ložionička 16 (Mercator Centar).<br />
Sport life B-4, Ferhadija 12.<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
41
42 direCtory<br />
Everything about communications, health, government,<br />
media, banks, real estate, language courses and so on.<br />
Clinics and Hospitals<br />
Clinical Centre I. Sarajevo Kasindo 74, tel. (+387)<br />
57 676 195, bolnica_kasindo@paleol.net.<br />
Eurofarm Centar Butmirska cesta 14, tel. (+387) 33<br />
773 020/(+387) 61 13 63 06, eurofarm@epn.ba, www.<br />
eurofarmcentar.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Opća bolnica Sarajevo (General hospital<br />
Sarajevo) B-1; B-2, Kranjčevićeva 12, tel. (+387)<br />
33 208 100, hospital@obs.ba, www.obs.ba. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Poliklinika Dr. Gezo Mustafe Kamerića 10, Dobrinja,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 450 102, fax (+387) 33 455 425,<br />
info@drgezo.ba, www.drgezo.ba. Physicians specialize<br />
in Otolaryngology, the medical and surgical therapy of<br />
problems of the ears, nose and throat. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Poliklinika Dr. Hadžiomerović B-3, Maršala Tita<br />
2, tel. (+387) 33 458 684/(+387) 61 188 009,<br />
drhomer@pksa.com.ba, www.drhadziomerovic.ba. A<br />
private clinic with services in Gynocology, <strong>In</strong>ternal Medicine<br />
and Ultrasound. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Poliklinika FM B-1; B-2, Vilsonovo šetalite 6, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 22 33 88, info@poliklinika-fm.ba, www.<br />
poliklinika-fm.ba. Clinic specializing in cardiology,<br />
gastroenterology, endocrinology, radiology, breast diseases,<br />
neurology, orthopedics, urology, dermatology and physical<br />
therapy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />
Sun.<br />
Poliklinke Atrijum Džemala Bijedića 185, Avaz<br />
Business Center, tel. (+387) 33 467 444/(+387) 33<br />
768 765, fax (+387) 33 768 768, a_omerbasic@yahoo.<br />
com. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 / 14:00 - 18:00.<br />
University of Sarajevo Clinical Centre C-3,<br />
Bolnička 25, tel. (+387) 33 29 70 00/(+387) 33 66<br />
66 20, fax (+387) 33 44 18 15, info@kcus.net, www.<br />
kcus.net.<br />
Dentists<br />
Dental Office Dr. Elma Hojkurić Paromlinska 40, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 654 024/(+387) 61 497 227, elmahojkuric@<br />
hotmail.com, www.dr-elma.com.<br />
Dental Surgery Bičakčić B-3, Maršala Tita 7, tel./<br />
fax (+387) 33 208 288.<br />
Dental Surgery Dr. Begeta C-3, Ćemaluša 4/II,<br />
tel./fax (+387) 33 225 257, tel. (+387) 61 148 148,<br />
ordinacija@begeta.ba, www.begeta.ba.<br />
Dr. Edin Muhić Splitska 3, tel./fax (+387) 33 21<br />
47 06, dr.edin@lsinter.net, www.ordinacijamuhic.<br />
ba.<br />
Dr. Hatidza Foco B-3; B-4, Dzenetica Cikma 10/II,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 218 057, info@drfoco.com, www.<br />
ortodoncija.com.ba.<br />
Dr. Lejla Cerić-Džaferović D-2, Patriotske lige 43,<br />
tel. (+387) 61 360 195, ordinacija@drlejla.com, www.<br />
drlejla.com.<br />
Dry Cleaners<br />
Dry Cleaners (Hemijska čistiona Boos) B-3,<br />
Tabašnica 11, tel. (+387) 33 215 735, fax (+387)<br />
33 221 378.<br />
Dry Cleaners (Hemijska čistiona Fleka)<br />
Paromlinska 2, tel. (+387) 33 614 220.<br />
Government<br />
Agency for Privatization in FBiH B-2; B-3; C-2;<br />
D-2, Alipasina 41, tel. (+387) 33 212 884/(+387) 33<br />
212 885, fax (+387) 33 212 883, apfbih@bih.net.ba,<br />
www.apf.com.ba.<br />
Commission to Preserve National Monuments<br />
B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 1, tel. (+387) 33 276 760,<br />
fax (+387) 33 276 768, aneks8ko@bih.net.ba, www.<br />
aneks8komisija.com.ba.<br />
Council Of Ministers B-2, Trg BiH 1, tel. (+387)<br />
33 211 581/(+387) 33 663 519, fax (+387) 33<br />
205 347, mmicevska@vijeceministara.gov.ba, www.<br />
vijeceministara.gov.ba.<br />
Federal Ministry Of Finance B-3, Mehmeda Spahe 5,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 253 532/(+387) 33 253 400, fax (+387)<br />
33 663 920, info@fmf.gov.ba, www.fmf.gov.ba.<br />
Federal Office of Statistics B-4, Zelenih Beretki<br />
26, tel./fax (+387) 33 66 45 53, fedstat@fzs.ba,<br />
www.fzs.ba.<br />
Foreign <strong>In</strong>vestment Promotion Agency for BiH<br />
B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 21/III, tel. (+387) 33 278<br />
080, fax (+387) 33 278 081, fipa@fipa.gov.ba, www.<br />
fipa.gov.ba/.<br />
Government of Federation of Bosnia and<br />
Herzegovina B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipasina 41, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 212 986, fax (+387) 33 220 437, info@<br />
fbihvlada.gov.ba, www.fbihvlada.gov.ba.<br />
Ministry of Civil Affairs B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine<br />
1, tel. (+387) 33 221 073, kabinet.ministra@mcp.gov.<br />
ba, www.mcp.gov.ba.<br />
Ministry of Foreign Affairs B-3, Musala 2, tel. (+387)<br />
33 281 100, fax (+387) 33 472 188, info@mvp.gov.<br />
ba, www.mfa.gov.ba. Useful and up to date information,<br />
including the principles of BiH foreign policy, diplomatic<br />
and other activities of the MFA, and diplomatic - consular<br />
missions, as well as other necessary and useful information,<br />
such as issuing of traveling documentation of Bosnia and<br />
Herzegovina, or visas information.<br />
Ministry of Justice of Bosnia and Herzegovina<br />
B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1, tel. (+387) 33 223<br />
505, fax (+387) 33 223 507, kontakt@mpr.gov.ba,<br />
www.mcp.gov.ba.<br />
Presidency Of BiH B-3, Musala 9, tel. (+387) 33 555<br />
691, www.predsjednistvobih.ba.<br />
<strong>In</strong>surance Companies<br />
Sarajevo Osiguranje B-3, Čobanija 14, tel. (+387)<br />
33 203 270, info@sarajevoosiguranje.ba, www.<br />
sarajevoosiguranje.ba.<br />
UNIQA Osiguranje B-2, Fra Anđela Zvizdovića 1,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 295 500, fax (+387) 33 295 541, info@<br />
uniqa.ba, www.uniqa.ba.<br />
Language Courses<br />
<strong>In</strong>terlingua B-3, Skenderija 35, tel. (+387) 33 710<br />
490/(+387) 33 710 491, fax (+387) 33 572 961,<br />
info@ihsarajevo.ba, www.interlingua.ba. <strong>In</strong>terlingua<br />
has become a member of The <strong>In</strong>ternational House-<br />
World Organisation. The <strong>In</strong>ternational House World<br />
Organisation (IHWO) is a network of language schools<br />
worldwide that are committed to implementing high<br />
standards of quality and innovation in education and training.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Soroš School for Foreign Languages B-3, Maršala<br />
Tita 19/III,, tel./fax (+387) 33 44 44 88, osf@soros.<br />
org.ba, www.soros.org.ba. The School organizes courses<br />
in English, French, German and Italian for adults and children,<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
and preparatory courses for TOEFL and IELTS tests. It also<br />
offers both individual and courses tailored for the needs of<br />
companies and organizations. There are also courses in<br />
Bosnian language for the foreign citizens in B&H.<br />
Chambers of Commerce<br />
American Chamber of Commerce in Bosnia and<br />
Hercegovina B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387)<br />
33 269 230, fax (+387) 33 269 232, amcham@lol.ba,<br />
www.amcham.ba.<br />
BiH Chamber of Commerce Branislava Đurđeva 10,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214 292, cis@<br />
komorabih.ba, www.komorabih.ba.<br />
Chamber of Economy of Sarajevo Canton B-3, La<br />
Benevolencija 8, tel. (+387) 33 250 100, fax (+387)<br />
33 250 137, webmaster@pksa.com.ba, www.pksa.<br />
com.ba.<br />
Foreign Trade Chamber of BiH B-3, Branislava<br />
Đurđeva 10, tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214<br />
292, j.lasic@kfbih.com, www.kfbih.com.<br />
Lawyers and Consultants<br />
Beganović-Žutić Mirsada B-3, Radićeva 2, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 219 225, h_zutic@bih.net.ba.<br />
Crnalić Asim B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20, tel. (+387)<br />
61 208 683/(+387) 33 206 580.<br />
Eterović Amila B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 10/III, tel./<br />
fax (+387) 33 215 430, tel. (+387) 33 207 434, info@<br />
aketerovic.com, www.aketerovic.com.<br />
Media<br />
BHT Television Bulevar Meše Selimovića 12, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 455 211, www.bhrt.ba. Public service<br />
broadcasting TV station in Bosnia and Herzegovina.<br />
Bosnia Daily B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4/X, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 288 035/(+387) 33 288 034, bdaily@<br />
megatel.ba, www.bosniadaily.co.ba. Online newspaper<br />
in English focusing on Economics and Politics.<br />
Dnevni Avaz Newspaper Džemala Bijedića 185, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 281 490, redakcija@avaz.ba, www.avaz.<br />
ba. A daily newspaper.<br />
Oslobođenje Džemala Bijedića 185, tel. (+387) 33<br />
276 900/(+387) 33 467 723, www.oslobodjenje.<br />
com.ba.<br />
Sarajevo Prime Television Bulevar Mese Selimovica<br />
12, tel. (+387) 33 776 777/(+387) 33 776 770,<br />
pitajte@tvsa.ba, www.tvsa.ba.<br />
NGOs<br />
Budi moj prijatelj (Be my friend) D-2, Patriotske lige<br />
24, tel. (+387) 33 668 660, www.budimojprijatelj.com.<br />
Fondacija Mozaik A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387)<br />
33 266 480, fax (+387) 33 266 482, info@mozaik.ba,<br />
www.mozaik.ba. Mozaik is a community development<br />
foundation that provides grants and advisory support to<br />
local initiatives of common interest throughout Bosnia and<br />
Herzegovina.<br />
<strong>In</strong>fohouse A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387) 33 227<br />
614/(+387) 61 525 054, infohouse@infohouse.ba,<br />
www.infohouse.ba, www.ljudskaprava.ba.<br />
Nansen Dijalog Centar C-2, Hakije Kulenovića<br />
10, tel. (+387) 33 273 461/(+387) 33 556 846, fax<br />
(+387) 33 556 845, office@ndcsarajevo.org, www.<br />
ndcsarajevo.org.<br />
Save the Children Hamdije Cemerlica 2/14, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 719 485.<br />
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />
direCtory<br />
Sos Kinderdorf Semira Frašte bb., tel. (+387) 33<br />
465 323/(+387) 33 465 218, fax (+387) 33 465 218,<br />
soskind@smartnet.ba, lamija.turcilo@smartnet.ba,<br />
www.sos-ds.ba.<br />
Notaries<br />
Mušir Brkić Rustem Papina 41/II, Ilidža, tel. (+387)<br />
33 763 455, mbrkic@bih.net.ba.<br />
Nasiha Alić , tel. (+387) 33 766 245, naca124@<br />
gnet.ba.<br />
Opticians<br />
Oftalmološka ordinacija Dr. Sefić B-4, Ferhadija<br />
5/1, tel. (+387) 33 210 212, fax (+387) 33 210 125,<br />
ordinacija@sefic.ba, www.sefic.ba.<br />
Optika Baroš B-4, Ferhadija 30, tel. (+387) 33 573<br />
900, fax (+387) 33 201 860, info@optikabaros.ba,<br />
www.optikabaros.ba.<br />
Optika Loris Topal Osman paše 32, tel. (+387) 33 715<br />
520, fax (+387) 33 715 522, optikaloris@bih.net.ba,<br />
www.optikaloris.ba.<br />
Optika Nur Velika avlija 12, tel. (+387) 61 529 894,<br />
info@optika.ba, www.optika.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00<br />
/ 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Optika Oculto B-3, Šenoina 12, tel./fax (+387) 33<br />
666 333, info@oculto.ba, www.oculto.ba.<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Apoteka Baščaršija B-4, Obala Kulina bana 40,<br />
tel. (+387) 33 272 300/(+387) 33 272 301, www.<br />
apoteke-sarajevo.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun<br />
08:00 - 22:00.<br />
Apoteka Marijin Dvor B-3, Maršala Tita 1, tel. (+387)<br />
33 714 280.<br />
Apoteka Novo B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 51, tel.<br />
(+387) 33 713 830/(+387) 33 713 831, informativna@<br />
apoteke-sarajevo.ba, www.apoteke-sarajevo.ba.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Biljna apoteka Matija Paunovski B-4, Zelenih<br />
beretki 28, tel./fax (+387) 33 626 200, info@<br />
a p o t e k a m a t i j a . b a , w w w . a p o t e k a m a t i j a .<br />
ba. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Real Estate<br />
Artis C-3, Hadži Idrizova 6, tel. (+387) 33 222<br />
506/(+387) 61 148 810, prodaja@nekretnineartis.ba,<br />
narudjba@nekretnineartis.ba, www.nekretnineartis.<br />
ba.<br />
Prostor d.o.o B-4, Zelenih Beretki 30, tel. (+387)<br />
33 570 555, fax (+387) 33 570 556, info@prostor.ba,<br />
www.prostor.ba.<br />
SigenX B-3, Plato Skenderije, tel. (+387) 33 667 727,<br />
info@sigenx.com, www.sigenx.com.<br />
Relocations<br />
A u t o p r evo z n i k Te l . (+ 3 87 ) 6 1 74 9 5 6 1 ,<br />
dajaktransport@gmail.com.<br />
Centrotrans <strong>In</strong>ternational Džemala Bijedića<br />
153, tel. (+387) 33 457 103/(+387) 62 134 714,<br />
centrotransmt@bih.net.ba.<br />
<strong>In</strong>tereuropa RTC Halilovići 12, tel. (+387) 33<br />
465 054, damir.arapovic@intereuropa.ba, www.<br />
intereuropa.ba.<br />
Autumn 2009<br />
43
44 street register<br />
A.Zvizdovića B2<br />
Avde Jabučice B2<br />
A. Šahinagića B4<br />
Alifakovac B5<br />
Alije Bejtića B5<br />
Antuna Hangija C2<br />
Avde Hume C2<br />
Alipašina B2,B3,C2,D2<br />
Armaganuša C3<br />
Arapova C4<br />
Ašikovac C4<br />
Adžemoviæa C4<br />
Asima Ferhatovića D3<br />
Alije Nametka D4<br />
Branilaca Sarajeva B3<br />
Bakarevića B4<br />
Bistrik B4,A4<br />
Bistrik potok B4,A4<br />
Brdo džamije B4<br />
Bentbaša B5<br />
Braće Morić B5<br />
Bolnička C3<br />
Brdakčije C3,D1,D4<br />
Bjelave C3<br />
Braće Eskenazi C4<br />
Bakije sokak C5<br />
Breka D3<br />
Budakovići D4<br />
Crni vrh B2,B3<br />
Ciglane C2<br />
Curak C3<br />
Cadordžina C4<br />
Carina C5<br />
Ćebešije donje C5<br />
Čobanija B3<br />
Čeljugovići B5<br />
Čekaluša C3<br />
Čemerlina C4<br />
Dolina B2<br />
Danijela Ozme B3<br />
Dol B5<br />
Dajanli Ibrahim-bega C2<br />
Derebent C3<br />
Dola C3<br />
Ðenetića č. B3,B4<br />
Dž. Čauševića B3<br />
Džidžikovac B3,C3<br />
Džinina C4<br />
Emerika Bluma A2<br />
Ejuba Ademovića B3<br />
F. Račkog B2<br />
Ferhadija B4<br />
Vječna Vatra, or the Eternal Flame<br />
Franjevačka B4<br />
Grbavička A1<br />
Garaplina A4,B4<br />
Goruša B2<br />
Gorica B2,C2<br />
Gazi Husrev b. B4<br />
Gabelina C3<br />
Golobrdica C4<br />
Glođina C4<br />
Grličića brdo C5,D5<br />
Huremuša A4<br />
H. Dizdara A4<br />
Hiseta B2<br />
Hamdije Kreševljakovića B3<br />
H. Kikića B3<br />
Hadžiabdinica B4<br />
Hrvatin B4,B5<br />
Hošin brijeg B5<br />
Halida Kajtaza C1<br />
Hakije Kulenovića C2<br />
Husrefa Redžića C2<br />
Himzarina C3<br />
Halim-hodžina C4<br />
H.Kajimije C4<br />
Hadži-Jamakova C5<br />
Humka D4<br />
Hrastovi D4,D5<br />
Iza hrida B5<br />
I. Cankara C3<br />
Jezero B3<br />
Josipa Vancaša C3<br />
Josipa Štadlera C4<br />
Jekovac C5<br />
Jukićeva D2,C2<br />
Kovačića A2<br />
Kamenica A5<br />
Kranjčeviæa B1,B2<br />
Kalemova B2<br />
K. Hermana B2<br />
Kotromanića B2<br />
Kralja Tvrtka B2<br />
Kulovića B3<br />
Kovači B4,C4<br />
Konak B4<br />
Kačanik m. B5<br />
Kačanik v. B5<br />
Koševo C2,D2,C3,B3<br />
Kevrin potok C3<br />
Kartal C4<br />
Karpuzova C4<br />
Kečina C4<br />
Livanjska C2,D2<br />
Logavina C4<br />
Ljubušaka B3<br />
Mrakuša A3<br />
Magribija B2<br />
Mjedenica B3,B4<br />
Musala B3<br />
Mis Irbina B3<br />
Mehmeda Spahe B3<br />
Maršala Tita B3<br />
M.M.Bašeskije B4<br />
Megara B5<br />
M.Mujezinovića B5<br />
Muhameda Hadžijahića C2,D2<br />
Marija Mikulića C2<br />
Mandžina C3<br />
Mejtaš C3<br />
Mehmed-paše<br />
Sokolovića C3,C4<br />
Medresa C4<br />
Mandrina C4<br />
M. Handžića C4<br />
M.Čazima Čatića C4<br />
Mejlijina C4,C5<br />
Mišćina C5<br />
Mraovac C5<br />
Mlini C5<br />
Marcela Šnajdera D3<br />
Mihrivode D4,D5<br />
Nevesinjska A2<br />
Nova Tekija B2,B3<br />
Nadmlini B5<br />
Nevjestina B5<br />
Nalina B5<br />
Okrugla A4<br />
Omera Stupca B2<br />
Odobašina B2,C2<br />
Obala Maka Dizdara B3<br />
Obala Kulina Bana B4<br />
Obala Isa-bega Isakovića B4<br />
Očaktanum C4<br />
Put mladih Muslimana<br />
A2,A3,A4,B3,B4,B5<br />
Petrakijina B3,B4<br />
Pod bedemom B5,C5<br />
Podcarina B5<br />
Provare C3<br />
Pirin brijeg C4<br />
Potoklinica C4<br />
Potok C4<br />
Prijeka česma C5<br />
Ploča C5<br />
Radičeva B3<br />
Rizaha štetića C3<br />
Ramića sokak C5<br />
Ramić banja D5<br />
Rogina D5<br />
Soukbunar A3,B3<br />
Stolačka B3<br />
Skenderija B3<br />
Stake Skenderove B3<br />
Sarači B4<br />
S. Skarića B4<br />
Sutjeska C2,C3<br />
Sepetarevac C3<br />
Sarač Ismailova C3,C4<br />
Safvet bega-Bašagića C4<br />
Sunulah Efendije C4<br />
Sagrdžije C4<br />
Strošići C5<br />
Stjepana Tomića C3,D3<br />
Safeta Pašalića C3,D3<br />
Sedrenik D4,D5<br />
Skender Kulenovića D4,D5<br />
Streljačka D5<br />
Šenoina B3<br />
Šerina B5<br />
Šekerova C3,C4<br />
Šeih Mehmedova C3<br />
Širokac C5<br />
Terezija A2<br />
Terzibašina A4<br />
Tešanjska B1,B2,C2<br />
Tepebašina B2<br />
Tina Ujevića B3,C3<br />
Trčivode B5<br />
Tijesna C3,C4<br />
Turbe B5<br />
Vilsonovo šetalište B1,B2<br />
Vrbanja B2<br />
Valtera Perića B2<br />
V. Skarića B4<br />
Velešići C1<br />
Vojislava Kecmanovića C2,D2<br />
Višnjik C3<br />
Vrbanjuša C4<br />
Vinograd C5<br />
Vratnik C5<br />
Za beglukom A4,B4<br />
Zmaja od Bosne B1,B2<br />
Zelenih beretki B4<br />
Zaima Šarca C3<br />
Zatikuša C3,C4<br />
Zmajevac C5<br />
Žgarići A4<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
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h<br />
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M I L J A C K A<br />
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ŠIROKA<br />
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J<br />
m<br />
in<br />
čićaa Neveessinjska
50 index<br />
Sarajevo <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Unique books from<br />
Ireland<br />
(and 21 other prizes)<br />
Complete our latest readership survey at inyourpocket.com/survey<br />
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priceless and unique from every country currently <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>.<br />
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N°95 - 6Lt<br />
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VILNIUS<br />
Užupis<br />
A brief sojourn inside Vilnius’<br />
distinctly eccentric<br />
independent republic<br />
Vingio Parkas<br />
From Tolstoy to rollerblades,<br />
the city’s favourite park is<br />
pulled apart and examined<br />
AAugust t - S SSeptember t b 2009<br />
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WARSAW<br />
N°52<br />
Poland - 5�� (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
UK - £5<br />
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1641-5264<br />
August - September 2009<br />
“<strong>In</strong> “I “<strong>In</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>:<br />
written wr writ itt series of guidebooks.”<br />
After the Battle<br />
Warsaw Uprising 70<br />
years on<br />
The Mouth of<br />
Old Town<br />
Warsaw‘s Barbican<br />
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BELFAST<br />
YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY<br />
NORTHERN<br />
IRELAND<br />
HIGHLIGHTS &<br />
HIDDEN GEMS<br />
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N°13<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
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Aug - Sep 2007<br />
Better by<br />
design<br />
Stunning souvenirs,<br />
stylish shopping and<br />
local crafts on display<br />
The Great<br />
Outdoors<br />
Feel the burn, catch the<br />
waves, take a hike<br />
Gastro Tourism<br />
Northern Ireland on a<br />
plate<br />
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N°48 - 100 K�<br />
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PRAGUE<br />
December 2008 - January 2009<br />
Christmas<br />
Markets<br />
Gifts galore<br />
Winter Chill Out<br />
Massage and more
Get <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> before you go<br />
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N°4 - 400 lek<br />
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TIRANA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Shopping fever<br />
Tirana’s first malls<br />
Facade art<br />
Painting the city pink<br />
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N°41 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
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ISSN 1508-2334<br />
N°23 - €1.75<br />
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KRAKÓW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
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BERLIN<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Tarnów<br />
Explore the Pearl of the<br />
Renaissance<br />
Leisure<br />
Getting active in Kraków<br />
Museum night<br />
100 museums in one<br />
night<br />
Floating the<br />
boat<br />
Spree river tours<br />
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N°1 - Complimentary copy<br />
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SKOPJE<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Skopje<br />
snapshots<br />
The Marubi photo<br />
collection<br />
Around town<br />
Daytrips to the lake,<br />
beach and mountains<br />
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BUCHAREST<br />
N°40 - 8.00 lei<br />
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N°47 - 35kr<br />
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TALLINN<br />
April - May 2006<br />
April - May 2006<br />
A New Look<br />
We‘ve never looked<br />
better: <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
gets a makeover<br />
Blogging<br />
Bucharest<br />
Our guide to the best<br />
politically incorrect<br />
comment online<br />
Touring Narva<br />
Cool sights at the EU‘s<br />
eastern border<br />
IYP gets a new<br />
look<br />
The inside scoop on the<br />
new look inside<br />
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N°20 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
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ISSN 1640-3592<br />
N°23 - €1.75<br />
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GDAŃSK<br />
August - November 2006<br />
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FRANKFURT<br />
August - September 2006<br />
<strong>In</strong>cluding<br />
SOPOT & GDYNIA<br />
Kashubia<br />
Exploring the Polish Alps<br />
Hot spots<br />
The Baltic’s Beaches<br />
Beach bars<br />
Cocktail in hand, toes<br />
in sand<br />
Dram tram<br />
Sipping ebbelwei on the<br />
cider express<br />
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N°34 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
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ISSN 1641-5264<br />
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N°7 - Free copy<br />
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N°60 - 1.20Ls<br />
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WARSAW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
BELFAST<br />
August - September 2006<br />
RIGA<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Wilanów<br />
Explore the Polish<br />
Versailles<br />
Out of town<br />
Poland‘s top spa town:<br />
Nałęczów<br />
The Great<br />
Outdoors<br />
Cycling, skydiving and<br />
country pursuits<br />
Gastro Tourism<br />
Seafood, whiskey and<br />
St. George’s Market<br />
Hockey Fever<br />
Everything you need to<br />
know about IIHF World<br />
Championship in Riga<br />
Explore Latvia<br />
Take a day trip to<br />
the seaside towns of<br />
Jūrmala and Liepāja<br />
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N°1 - Complimentary copy<br />
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SHKODRA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Shkodra<br />
snapshots<br />
The Marubi photo<br />
collection<br />
Around town<br />
Daytrips to the lake,<br />
beach and mountains<br />
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ST. PETERSBURG<br />
April 2006 N°24<br />
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NEW<br />
LOOK!<br />
April 2006<br />
Easter Greetings<br />
Egg breaking & church<br />
walking…<br />
Russian in Russia<br />
The best ways to discover<br />
the language<br />
Culture & Events<br />
Simple Minds, t.A.T.u. &<br />
Cosmonaut’s Day<br />
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COLOGNE<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
River tours<br />
Wine and dine on the<br />
Rhine<br />
N°1<br />
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June - July 2006<br />
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HAMBURG<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
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June - July 2006<br />
Harbour tours<br />
Down in the docks<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
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N°1 - €3<br />
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PRISTINA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
Feature 2 - max<br />
2 lines<br />
Short description of the<br />
feature. Should be max.<br />
3 lines.<br />
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N°34 - 100 Kč<br />
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PRAGUE<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Going to the<br />
chapel<br />
Karlštejn’s renovated<br />
jewel<br />
Let’s rock<br />
Visiting the Bohemian<br />
Paradise<br />
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N°2 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
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ISSN 1896-1169<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
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ŁÓDŹ<br />
September - December 2006<br />
Hollyłódź<br />
Poland‘s cinema city<br />
Stars in your<br />
eyes<br />
From Polanski to Max<br />
Factor, read about the<br />
famous natives.<br />
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KAISERSLAUTERN<br />
June - July 2006<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
Going Palatine<br />
Strolling in the forest