KlaIpEda - In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
N°20 - 6Lt
www.inyourpocket.com
9 7 7 1 8 2 2 1 7 9 0 1 4
KlaIpEda
Including
NIda & palaNGa
June 2012 - May 2013
20
Europe’s best city
guides for more than
20 years
Inside
A fully updated, impartial scrutiny
of everything Klaipėda has to offer
visitors for the next 12 months
Outside
Two indispensable guides to the quirky
coastal resorts of Nida and Palanga,
plus an essential guide to Nida’s
handsome little brother Juodkrantė

All you need to
know about where
to sleep, eat, drink,
visit and enjoy
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lithuania.inyourpocket.com
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Contents
Juodkrantė 5
Neringa’s overlooked little masterpiece
Arriving in Klaipėda 7
The easy, scam-free guide
Basics 8
A dictionary of differences
History 9
Major events that shaped the region
Summer Events 10
Just the ticket
Culture 11
Just the ticket for the next 12 months
Where to stay 12
Presidential suites to camp sites
Dining & Nightlife
Restaurants 17
Getting better all the time
Nightlife 23
Drinking, dancing and a little bit of nakedness
If your idea of a holiday by the sea involves candyfloss,
miniskirts and drinking and dancing all night, then get thee to
Palanga. Lithuania’s unofficial summer capital offers a cheap
and cheerful experience for the masses alongside a handful
of equally thrilling cultural diversions. The fun starts on p.37.
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Of the two most popular seaside resorts in Lithuania, Nida
is by far the most sedate, picturesque and expensive.
Quite like nowhere else in the country, the entire Lithuanian
part of the Curonian Spit on which Nida is located retains
a distinct Germanness in both its appearance and its
outlook. Read all about it on p.31.
Sightseeing
What to see 27
A small but eye-opening collection
Nida 31
Es ist sehr friedlich und schön!
Palanga 37
A little Baltic slap and tickle
Getting around 45
When legs just aren’t enough
Mail & Phones 49
Keeping in touch
Shopping 50
Everything from amber to iPads
Directory 52
Haircuts, health and tennis
Maps
Street register 54
City centre map 55
City map 56
Index 58
Country map 59
June 2012 - May 2013
3

4 Foreword
The year 2012 sees Klaipėda celebrate its 760th birthday,
a historical event of major importance eclipsed only by the
fact that the very same year marks the publication of the
20th issue of Klaipėda In Your Pocket, the compact
little masterpiece you’re currently holding in your hands.
Klaipėda may be the oldest city in modern-day Lithuania
but, not unlike this guidebook, it’s not exactly huge. A
3km-wide urban sprawl hugging the Curonian Lagoon for
20km or so, Lithuania’s third city would be hard to defend
as a destination worthy of an extended stay, although it
certainly offers enough things to keep visitors busy for
a few days whilst simultaneously acting as the perfect
jumping-off point for the two contrastingly different
resorts of Nida (see p.31) and Palanga (see p.37). As
always, find all three places tucked inside the following
pages, fully updated and lovingly prepared with the sole
purpose of making visiting them easier, more informative
and, hopefully, more fun to boot. And if that hasn’t got you
excited enough, we’ve gone completely mad this year
and included an extra special feature on the often sadly
overlooked village of Juodkrantė (see p.5), the sleepy little
village on the Curonian Spit whose pace of life is about
as laid back as it gets. Yes indeed, it’s all here and more,
including information on the best places to get drunk,
where to receive a haircut, how to use the local buses and
even where you need to go if your laptop goes wrong. Have
a super time and see you all again next year. Klaipėda
In Your Pocket welcomes all comments, suggestions,
custard pies and knives in the back as always. Email us
at klaipeda@inyourpocket.com or join the conversation
online at klaipeda.inyourpocket.com.
Cover story
A short trundle across the Curonian
Lagoon at the northern tip of the Curonian
Spit, the Lithuanian Sea Museum is more
than just a bunch of pretty fish inside an old
defensive fort. Recommended for adults
and children alike, read all about it on p.28.
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket
Bernardinų 9 - 4
Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76
fax (+370) 5 212 29 82
klaipeda@inyourpocket.com
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ISSN 1822-1793
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Published once a year
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Editorial
Editor Sco
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Cover Photo Sco
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Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket
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Accounting Všį “ACORDO”
Sales Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė
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Complimentary copies of Klaipėda In Your
Pocket are also available in many hotels.
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With barely 700 year-round inhabitants, the old fishing
village of Juodkrantė was first mentioned (as Schwarzort)
in 1429. Originally on the Baltic Sea side of the Curonian
Spit, bad weather and shifting sand dunes forced the entire
population to move to the lagoon side in the 1680s where
it slowly developed. It’s current incarnation as a sleepy holiday
destination began in the latter half of the 19th century
when the original wooden church burned to the ground and
was replaced by the current red brick structure. Popular with
artists and Germans seeking a restive cure, Juodkrantė
changed at a snail’s pace to become the popular resort it
is today. Even more laid back than its larger and more well
known brother Nida to the south, to most visitors to the
Curonian Spit Juodkrantė is little more than a passing blur
on the bus, a sad state of affairs considering what it has
to offer. With a handful of recommended places to eat and
drink plus a wealth of unique cultural sights, Juodkrantė
offers and the very least an extremely pleasant day trip
from Nida, although to get the full benefits of everything it
has to offer it’s worth spending at least a night here in one
of the village’s many places to stay. Far from inclusive, the
following offers at introductory glimpse to one of Lithuania’s
best and seriously overlooked masterpieces.
Arriving
Just over 20km south of Klaipėda, Juodkrantė can easily be
reached in about an hour. Getting there is exactly the same
as getting to Nida. The main bus stop is opposite the Liudvikas
Rėza Cultural Centre, which also doubles as the village’s
tourist information centre where free maps and advice are
available from pleasant, English-speaking staff. Although
stretched out along the edge of the lagoon, everything in
the village can be reached on foot. There are no banks in
Juodkrantė and we couldn’t find an ATM anywhere. Bearing
this in mind it’s highly recommended that visitors stuff their
wallets with cash before department just to be on the safe
side as not everywhere takes credit cards.
Tourism Information
Turizmo Informacija Juodkrantėje L. Rėzos 8,
tel. (+370) 469 534 90/(+370) 618 624 47, juodkrante@neringa.lt,
www.visitneringa.lt. A small but
valuable source of information inside the Liudvikas Rėza
Cultural Centre, find free maps, books in English and German
plus expert advice on things to see and do. Find it
at the northern end of the village opposite the main bus
stop. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Sun 09:00 - 15:00 (Jun
1 - Aug 31). Open 08:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon, Sun (Sept 1 - May 31). J
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JuodkrantE
© Nida Culture & Tourism Information Centre “Agila”
Where to stay
With the exception of true luxury accommodation,
Juodkrantė offers a good range of options for people looking
for all types of accommodation from a room in a hotel
to the full self catering experience.
Hotels
Ąžuolynas L. Rėzos 54, tel. (+370) 469 533 10, fax
(+370) 469 533 16, www.hotelazuolynas.lt. Positively
enormous, this place has got it all. Rooms, which come with
the faded air of 1970s German chic, are available in a number
of formats from doubles to small apartments with their own
kitchens. All are en suite, but the facilities inside them are fairly
basic. Extras include indoor and outdoor swimming pools,
sauna, free internet access, countless bars and restaurants
and a concert hall. Excellent value for the price, although visitors
seeking peace and quiet should know that the place is popular
with large groups of school children and the inherent chaos
they bring with them. Q 98 rooms (120 - 550Lt). HDC
Vila Vita L. Rėzos 25, tel. (+370) 687 302 12, info@
vilavita.lt, www.vilavita.lt. A series of modern rooms and
suites, many with balconies overlooking the lagoon and all
with en suite facilities. Prices are relatively high when compared
to similar options, although the views and the small
restaurant downstairs are a definite bonus. Q 13 apartments
(140 - 480Lt/night). A6LKW
Apartments
Neringa Rent L. Rėzos 32, tel. (+370) 699 539 26,
neringarent@gmail.com, www.neringarent.lt. A fantastic
range of rooms and apartments scattered around the village
offering accommodation in many varieties for single visitors
to large families. Basic but featuring everything necessary for
a comfortable self-catering stay, many come complete with
gardens and barbecue facilities. The website is in English
and includes full information and photographs of each place.
Q 10 apartments (100 - 350Lt/night). J
Where to eat
If you want Chinese, sushi and vegetarian dishes, keep
heading south. If you want old-fashioned dining at rock
bottom prices in historical wooden buildings and the occasional
medieval boat, you won’t be disappointed.
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June 2012 - May 2013
5

6 juodkrante
Fish
Pamario Takas L. Rėzos 42, tel. (+370) 699 872 48.
A traditional wooden house painted light blue and located
more or less in the middle of the village overlooking the
lagoon, Pamario Takas serves a range of grilled meat
and local fish dishes as well as catering to the whims
of children. One of several similar places, this one has a
laid-back atmosphere which is ideal for visitors looking
to get away from it all. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 18 -20Lt.
TABSW
Žvejonė L. Rėzos 30, tel. (+370) 469 532 80. The
quintessential Juodkrantė restaurant complete with a
good menu of smoked and fresh fish alongside other
meat treats, this recommended, slightly tumble-down
establishment also comes with a rather nice summer
garden. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. TJABS
Fun
Kogas L. Rėzos 1, tel. (+370) 655 269 49, www.
jovila.lt. Recently built for a feature film about a legendary
German pirate, Kogas has been transformed into a
fun place to indulge in medieval fantasies and gorge on
local dishes. Staff tend to dress in period costumes and
the menu leans in the direction of old-fashion food. On
a warm summer evening there are few better places to
relax, eat, drink and be merry. Kogas is also available for
private rental. Find it docked in the small harbour in the
southern end of the village. You can’t miss it. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. TEBSW
International
Vela Bianca L. Rėzos 1a, tel. (+370) 690 065 44.
About as modern and sophisticated as Juodkrantė gets,
this nautical-themed (what else?) two-floor thatchedroof
restaurant directly in front of Kogas on the water’s
edge features bean bags for chairs, outside seating and
a rather splendid fillet pork dish. Managing to balance
tradition with cutting-edge style, this is arguably the
best restaurant in town. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. 29Lt.
TJAUEBSW
What to see
Surplus to the individual listings below, Juodkrantė
features a couple of other sights and sensations worth
sniffing out, namely the infamous Witches Hill (Raganų
Kalnas), a series of approximately 80 wooden sculptures
that started life in 1979 and that keeps growing.
The collection, which features carved likenesses of animals
and creatures from Lithuanian mythology, is well
signposted from the main road. Also worth a mention
is the extraordinary, loud and potentially messy colony
of 1,300 or so pairs of great cormorants and a further
580 or thereabout pairs of grey herons. A hugely
controversial colony, the birds’ droppings are basically
poisoning everything in the vicinity, although as both
the cormorants and the herons are now protected
species there’s not much that can be done about it.
Located just south of the village, look for the first lay-by
on the right and following the unsignposted wooden
steps to the purpose-built observation platform.
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Museums & Galleries
Liudvikas Rėza Cultural Centre (Liudviko
Rėzos Kultūros Centras) L. Rėzos 8, tel. (+370)
469 534 48, www.lrezoskc.lt. Named after the late
Curonian academic Ludwig Rheese (or Rhesa, 1776-
1840) and also the location of the village’s tourist
information centre, this red brick former school building
features a small concert and exhibition hall at ground
level and a permanent exhibition space upstairs made
up mostly of items relating to the building’s namesake
including a collection of books printed in both the extinct
Curonian language and proto-Lithuanian. Upstairs also
features several old photographs of the village from the
private collection of Elizabeth Kluwe. QOpen 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 3/1Lt. J
Museum of Miniature Arts (Miniatiūrų Muziejus)
L. Rėzos 3, tel. (+370) 469 533 23. An
intriguing collection of over 300 miniatures from all
over the world including paintings, reliefs and other art
forms, this recommended diversion is located inside
a traditional wooden house across the road from the
Evangelical Lutheran Church. The museum is actually
made up of several houses in the immediate area, of
which the others open during the summer season for the
purpose of putting on a wide range of art exhibitions.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
6/3Lt. J
Churches
Evangelical Lutheran Church (Juodkrantės
Evangelikų Liuteronų Bažnyčia) L. Rėzos 56, tel.
(+370) 616 838 33. Completed in 1885 to replace an
earlier wooden church that burned down a decade before,
this classic German-looking little red brick house of worship
is fairly plain inside but worth a look all the same.
During the Soviet occupation the building served first
as a storage space before being turned in a museum of
miniatures (which now operates across the road) in 1976.
The church was reconsecrated during the heady days
of perestroika in 1989. Q Mass Sun 9:30 (Lithuanian,
German, English). Only summer time. J
Places of interest
Juodkrantė Cemetery (Juodkrantės Kapinės)
Miško. Not quite as exciting or revealing as several other
ethnographic cemeteries in the region, this small cemetery
at the northern tip of the village is still in use but does
feature a few graves with German inscriptions from the
second half of 19th and early part of 20th century. The
words Ruhe Sanft on the backs of the German metal
crosses translates roughly as Rest in Peace. J
Sport & Leisure
Although not as geared up for sport and leisure tourism
as Nida, several places open up during the summer
months in Juodkrantė and rent bicycles and small boats.
Like much of the area around the Curonian Lagoon, the
water at Juodkrantė is a hugely popular destination for
local kite surfing, windsurfing, sailing and paragliding
enthusiasts. For more information about getting involved,
speak to the nice people at the Turizmo Informacija
Juodkrantėje.
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
With an airport just up the road, a ferry and cruise liner
port in the city centre, bus connections, a train station and
an internationally recognised cycle route running through
it, if you’re having trouble arriving in Klaipėda you may
like to have somebody feel your pulse and possibly call a
priest. Click one of the options on the left for more.
By bus
Long-distance buses arrive in Klaipėda from Kaliningrad,
Riga and most major Lithuanian towns and cities. The
newish bus station, if not exactly cutting edge, is at least
an improvement on the concrete monstrosity that once
stood in its place. The combined ticket hall and waiting
room also features toilets (1Lt) and a couple of machines
selling drinks and snacks. A left luggage office (bagažinė)
for travellers who only plan on spending the day in town
can be found at the front of the building which also
contains a decent IKI supermarket, a handful of small
shops and a café selling good value buffet food ready in
an instant. ATMs can be found outside. Getting to town
Taxis can be found lurking around the station perimeter. A
ride to Old Town should cost around 10Lt from an honest
driver, possibly even less. Buses to the city centre leave
from outside the front of the building. For more information
on which number buses to take, see Arriving by train. The
bus station is a good 20-minute walk from Old Town.
By car
Klaipėda is at the end of the 311km highway from Vilnius
and is also connected to Riga via the A13 (E272) that
hugs the coast before crossing the border and becoming
the A11. A massive new intersection just east of the
city is currently under construction, which will eventually
make life easier for traffic. At the moment though, the
mess of unfinished flyovers and confusing road signs
only make matters worse. Brave souls wishing to take
a vehicle into the city should know in advance that
Klaipėda’s a sprawling mass of bumpy roads possessing
little in the way of useful signposts. Don’t leave valuables
unattended, and if you can, use guarded parking
whenever possible.
Homeland Farewell, see p.29.
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
arriving in klaipeDa
Yacht Port
Serving up to 70 yachts and motor cruisers,
Klaipėda’s yacht port offers the opportunity to
berth in Old Town. Facilities include around the clock
security, electricity, fresh water, fuel, minor repairs
and even internet access. For more about using the
facilities including information on passport control
and customs clearance, see the port’s website at
www.ports.lt.
By ferry
Ferries arrive in Klaipėda from Kiel and Sassnitz in
Germany as well as Karlshamn in Sweden. Services
at the ferry terminal are few and far between. If you
want to change money, find a Medicinos Bankas kiosk
(Open 08:00 - 19:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 24hrs) in the main
terminal building. Getting to town The International
Ferry Terminal is about 12km south of the city centre.
Bus Nº1a leaves from outside the main terminal building
a few times a day. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.40Lt
and validate it in the appropriate machine. Journey time
to the centre is about 25 minutes. All buses terminate at
the last stop on Taikos before Old Town. Taxis are usually
waiting around outside. A journey to Old Town costs
anything from 35-60Lt.
By plane
Klaipėda is served by Palanga Airport, which is about
25km north of the city on the main A13 (E272) highway.
All year round the Airport handles flights to and from
Copenhagen, Oslo and Riga, with the addition of flights
to and from Moscow during the summer. Small even
by Lithuanian standards, the airport is easy to use. A
currency exchange office takes care of changing money,
plus there’s an ATM, café, duty free shop, ticket office
and Avis, Hertz and Europcar car rental kiosks. Getting to
town Buses for Klaipėda leave from the small stand outside
the main entrance, and all of them go via Palanga.
The journey time is about 50 minutes. Tickets cost 8Lt
and can be bought from the driver. The bus terminates
at the main bus station. See Arriving by bus for more information.
Taxis are usually parked outside the terminal
building whenever flights arrive. The journey to Klaipėda
costs anything from 100Lt upwards.
By train
A handful of trains arrive in Klaipėda each day from
Šiauliai, Šilutė and Vilnius. Facilities at the train station
include toilets outside near the platforms, large
luggage lockers (4Lt/day), a drinks machine and not a
lot else. Getting to town Taxis can be found outside
the front of the station. A ride to Old Town should cost
around 10Lt from an honest driver. Minibus Nº8 leaves
from a small stand just to the right of the exit and goes
south through the city centre. Pay the driver 2.50Lt and
shout when you want him to stop. The larger city bus
Nº8 leaves from the bus stop to the right of the minibus
stop and follows the same route. Buy a ticket from the
driver for 2.40Lt. Both buses go through Old Town during
the week and around it on Saturdays and Sundays.
The train station is a good 20 minutes away on foot
from Old Town.
June 2012 - May 2013
7

8 Basics
Crime & Safety
Crime is rampant in Lithuania, most of it taking place inside
the murky worlds of business and politics and consequently
having little if no effect on the average visitor. Crimes closer
to home include such petty annoyances as having bits of your
car stolen to the inevitable disappearing purses and mobile
phones. Don’t leave valuables in unattended pockets or lying
around on tables. The chances of getting robbed in the street
remain tiny. However, caution never did anybody any harm,
and you’re advised not to flaunt your wallet in stupid places
or announce to the entire world your huge wealth by wearing
loud jewellery in quiet back streets.
Customs
Those arriving from other EU countries have no import
restrictions placed upon them, although they will need to make
it known if they’re arriving with more than €10,000 worth of cash.
When arriving from non-EU countries you’re entitled to bring in
one litre of spirits or four litres of wine or sixteen litres of beer.
If arriving by air you can bring 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50
cigars or 250g of tobacco, a figure that’s drastically reduced to
40 cigarettes, 20 cigarillos, 10 cigars or 50g of tobacco if arriving
by any other means. You can’t bring meat, milk or dairy products
from outside the EU except under certain circumstances. You
can’t arrive with live birds other than pets for non-commercial
purposes. Dogs require vaccinations and passports (or other
proof of vaccination). You can take home as much art as you
wish tax free unless it’s over 50 years old, in which case expect
to pay 10-20 per cent duty. The antique shop listed on p.50
should be able to advise on exactly what paperwork you need.
For more detailed information check www.cust.lt. For information
on animal-related arrivals, take a look at www.vet.lt.
Disabled travellers
Whilst things have improved for the disabled over the past
few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get around on
anything other than two well functioning legs. Even places
that claim to be wheelchair-friendly are often flanked by deep
kerbs or stairs, or are located on cobbled streets. Outside
the major cities you’ll be lucky to find any thought given to
wheelchair accessibility at all. The Society for the Physically
Disabled of Lithuania (Lietuvos Neįgaliųjų Draugija) has a
website at www.draugija.lt, which has been promising an
English language version for at least two years now but that
remains in Lithuanian only.
Electricity
Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at 220V, AC
50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round two-pin European
variety. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should
bring an appropriate adaptor, as they’re almost impossible
to find in Lithuania.
Language
Lithuanian is a very odd language indeed. One of the oldest
still spoken today, the tongue that time forgot is supposedly
similar in grammatical form as well as sharing many of the
same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With seven noun
cases, four declension patterns, absolutely no similarity
to anything you’ve ever heard before and an obligation to
pronounce the stress on every word in the right place to
stand any chance whatsoever of being understood, getting
to grips with the local lingo is at best tough. Thankfully, most
places where tourists congregate in the country are now fairly
English-friendly, plus Lithuania’s rich cultural past has left an
Blue Flag beaches
A total of three Baltic Sea beaches along the Lithuanian
coast currently have Blue Flag status, namely those at
Nida (see p.31), Juodkrantė (see p.5) and the section of
beach close to Palanga’s Birutė Park (see p.44).
accumulation of polyglots nationwide, with Russian spoken
almost everywhere, Polish in and around the capital and
German up and down the coast.
Money & Costs
The unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which comes
in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt and 500Lt
notes, 1, 2 and 5 litas coins and a number of weightless and
rather useless centai/centų coins. The litas is pegged to
the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt to €1. Most places of note in
Klaipėda happily accept major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully
spew out money to any foreigner with money in their account.
If you’re planning a trip to the countryside or any of the smaller
destinations included in this guide however, make sure you take
plenty of cash along to be on the safe side. Klaipėda, Nida and
Palanga are no longer the cheap destinations they used to be,
although they still offer reasonably good value to most visitors
from the West. A good night out for two including a meal in a
posh restaurant followed by drinks in a bar and a club to finish
off won’t leave you with much change, if any change at all, from
€100. Most prices have rocketed of late, although short-term
accommodation is still extremely good value. Once outside
the main tourist destinations, prices drop considerably, with
rural holidays providing exceptionally good value for money.
Service
Anyone who spends more than a couple of days immersed
in Lithuanian life can’t fail to notice just how extraordinarily
indifferent if not just plain rude many staff can be. Even
the ever-increasing examples of friendly service here often
come with an ineptitude of mammoth proportions. If you’re
sensitive to these things, you’re advised to bite your lip and
suffer in silence.
Toilets
Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (where’s the
toilet) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you use
their facilities, although some have started to enforce a small
charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few non-tourist
bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with plenty of paper
and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone by that refuses to go
away even in many upmarket establishments is the provision
of a filthy bucket, kept next to the toilet and used for the
collection of used paper. Like the Greeks, the Lithuanians are
convinced toilet paper destroys plumbing. It doesn’t.
Visas
Lithuania is a member of the European Union and the Schengen
zone. Visitors from EU countries as well as a list of 30 or so
additional countries don’t require a visa to stay for up to 90 days
within a six month period. Those additional countries include
Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea
and the United States. A visa issued for any Schengen country is
also valid in Lithuania. EU citizens can live and work in Lithuania
for as long as they like but must get a residence permit after a
specific period. For more precise information, check with your
representative embassy or take a look at www.urm.lt
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
The ancestral home of the Curonians (Kuršiai) and other
proto-Lithuanian tribes including the long-extinct Nadruvians
and Skalvians, the area around Klaipėda has been inhabited
since at least the 7th century. Until 1923, the city was an
integral part of the region of East Prussia known as Lithuania
Minor (Lithuanian, Mažoji Lietuva. German, Kleinlitauen)
whose Lithuanian population, the Lietuvininkai, were
predominantly Protestant and distinct from their eastern
neighbours in many ways. Although Klaipėda was known
as Memel for most of its history, the word Klaipėda is used
below to mean both.
13th century
1252 The Bishop of Kuršas (Courland) signs an agreement
with the Livonian Order. The Teutonic Knights build
Memelburg Castle at the mouth of the Danė. In 1254
Klaipėda is granted Lübeck law, establishing it as a sea
trading town on a par with other Hanseatic towns. The town
is repeatedly attacked by Lithuanian and German forces,
causing the Bishop to re-locate to Pilten (today’s Piltene in
Latvia) in 1298.
14th century
In 1328 the Livonian Knights agree to transfer Klaipėda
and its surrounding area to the German Order of Prussia.
15th century
In 1418 the city of Caloypeda (Latin for Klaipėda) is first
mentioned in written sources. In 1455 Klaipėda is occupied
by Samogitian (Žemaitian) forces for the first time.
16th century
In 1525 during the Reformation in Prussia, the Lithuanian
Protestant Church is established. In 1540 a large fire destroys
large parts of the city.
17th century
Swedish forces control the city from 1629 until 1635. By
1657 the merchants of Klaipėda are granted the privilege to
develop their sea trade independently of the Prussian government,
enabling the city and its port to expand.
18th century
Russia occupies the Klaipėda region from 1757 until 1762.
During the second half of the century the city grows rapidly
and the port hosts nearly 1,000 ships annually.
19th century
In 1808 Klaipėda becomes the temporary capital of the
Kingdom of Prussia whilst Napoleon occupies Berlin. By 1812
Russian forces occupy the area again. In 1854 another fire
consumes the city, causing massive damage. Klaipėda is
subsequently rebuilt using stone. In 1860 the first gymnasium
is founded. By 1871 the newly founded German Empire
controls the city and continues to do so until the end of WWI.
The Nemunas and the port are connected in 1873 via the
King Wilhelm Canal.
20th century
At the end of WWI the Treaty of Versailles severs Klaipėda
from German rule and places it as a protectorate of the
Entente states. In 1923 the Klaipėda Revolt (actually an
invasion) forces the city into Lithuanian hands although the
region retains much autonomy from the rest of Lithuania.
On March 22, 1939 the Nazis take control of the city and
stay until its liberation by the Red Army on January 28,
1945. Nearly two-thirds of the city is destroyed during
WWII. Many inhabitants flee or are deported. Klaipėda, like
the rest of Lithuania, comes under Soviet rule until 1990.
After Independence, the University of Klaipėda is founded. In
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
history
1997, in order to revitalise the city, the area is established
as one of the few Free Economic Zones within the country.
21st century
The Lithuanian litas is pegged to the euro in 2002. In 2004
Lithuania joins Nato and the European Union. In 2007
Lithuania becomes a member of the Schengen zone. In
2009 Klaipėda co-hosts the prestigious Tall Ships Race.
The country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 competition in
cities nationwide between August 31 and September 18.
Lithuania is defeated 67-65 by FYR Macedonia in the quarter
finals in Kaunas on September 15.
Stalag Luft VI
Lietuvininkų 36, Šilutė, tel. (+370) 44 16 22 07. In
turns a German POW camp for Allied air crews and then
a camp for prisoners of the Soviet regime, the almost
entirely forgotten site that was once Stalag Luft VI, the
northernmost POW camp in the Third Reich, deserves
both a visit and more recognition in general. Covering
three hectares of land about 50km south of Klaipėda
in the tiny village of Macikai, Stalag Luft VI was opened
in 1939 and at its peak housed over 1,000 servicemen
from countries including Belgium, Canada, Great Britain,
Poland and the United States. Abandoned at the start of
1945 during one of the infamous Long Marches, after
the war the camp became a Soviet camp where entire
families were kept until 1955. The subsequent levelling
of the site and surrounding graves has made any serious
research into its history difficult to say the least. Although
a lot of people died here, there are no records of the
exact numbers or, with very few exceptions, just exactly
who these people were. The actual site of the camp is
long gone, although immediately to the rear a wooded
area where those who perished here still remains, which
with the help of several concerned embassies and a few
interested Lithuanians has been turned into a place of
remembrance complete with marked graves and memorials.
There’s also a small museum commemorating the
camp’s dual roles during its 16-year lifespan. Plans are
currently underway to create a proper memorial to those
who suffered and lost their lives in the camp, including
the construction of a large wall of remembrance. Despite
the lack of information, the former camp is still worth
visiting by anyone with even a passing interest in the
recent history of the region. The camp is located just off
route 141 a couple of kilometres east of Šilutė. Look for
the large Macikų Koncentracijos Stovyklos Vieta signs
and keep driving until you reach the end of the track.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission 1/0.50Lt.
June 2012 - May 2013
9

10 summer events
Until August 14
Muzikuojantis Keltas
An interesting and decidedly different take on the traditional
music festival, Muzikuojantis Keltas (Musical Ferry) sets sail
every Saturday evening for the best part of summer 2012 on
board the local ferry Nida from the Old Port Crossing (see p.46),
cruising the Curonian Lagoon to the beats and rhythms of a
wide range of live musical acts. The festival website at www.
muzikuojantiskeltas.lt is for the time being in Lithuanian only,
although the photo gallery and short films on it do give a good
idea of what to expect. Tickets are available in the Maxima
supermarket in Akropolis (see p.50), BIG (see p.50) and several
other locations in and around the city.
Until August 25
Dūdų Vasara
A series of outdoor brass concerts taking place on a classic
bandstand in a park in Palanga (see p.44) every Thursday, Friday
and Saturday evening. Musical styles range from the traditional
to the contemporary. See www.palanga.lt for more information.
July 7
Otilio Castro
The young tenor from the Dominican Republic Otilio Castro
takes to the outdoor stage at the Klaipėda Concert Hall (see
p.11) on July 7, accompanied by the in-house orchestra in an
event called Spanish Passion. No further information was
available at the time of going to press.
July 7
Labas Festas
For those who don’t like tenors, July 7 offers an alternative
in the form of an outdoor festival of local and international
dance music on the beach at Palanga (see p.37) featuring
among others the internationally acclaimed German trance DJ
and musician ATB. More information online at www.festas.lt.
July 12 - 15
Parbėg Laivelis
The bi-annual international folk festival Parbėg Laivelis takes
place in 2012 between July 12 and July 15 near to or on the
water in the city centre. Celebrating folk traditions through
music, dance, crafts and scores of workshops and performances,
limited information in English was available at the
time of going to press at www.etnocentras.lt.
July 13 - August 26
Muzikinis Rugpjūtis Pajūryje
Translating more or less as A Musical August by the Sea,
the 15th annual Muzikinis Rugpjūtis Pajūryje takes place in a
number of venues and celebrates both opera and symphonic
music from home and abroad. Popping up in Klaipėda as well
as Palanga (see p.37), Nida (see p.31), Juodkrantė (see p.5),
Kretinga and Giruliai, find more information online in English
at www.muzikinis-teatras.lt.
July 14 - 21
The Captive Mind
Aka the 16th International Thomas Mann Festival, which this
year adds the fabulous Nida Art Colony (see p.34) to its list of
venues throughout Nida (see p.31). Events are manifold and
often have little to do with the author, and range from music to
spoken word to cinema. The website at www.mann.lt currently
has nothing about the exhibition but should do nearer the time.
July 18 - 21
Omnitel 1,000km Race 2012
As is so often the case with local promotional material, the
official information for this year’s ‘largest motor sport event’
(largest where?) explodes in a firework display of poetry whilst
simultaneously failing to present any useful information whatsoever.
All we can faithfully report is that it’s taking place in
the centre of Palanga (see p.37) and that among other things
there’s going to be a ‘traditional baterry [sic] super sprint,
running mechanics and others’. For more incomprehensible
information, point your browsers at www.racing.lt.
July 26 - August 15
Kuršių Nerija 2012
The 14th International Chamber Music Summer Festival takes
place again this July and August in the fabulous Curonian Spit
resorts of Juodkrantė (see p.5) and Nida (see p.31). Featuring
the Lithuanian National Philharmonic and other classical
ensembles, the festival promises another exciting series of
classical performances. Find the full schedule (in Lithuanian
only) online at www.neringa.lt.
July 27 - 29
Nida Jazz
The now well established Nida Jazz festival takes place again
this year at venues around town. Arguably not as good as the
bigger jazz festivals in the country, Nida (see p.31) is at least
a wonderful place to have a festival. No information in English
at the time of going to press. Keep and eye on www.nidajazz.
lt to see how things progress.
August 3 - 5
Klaipėda Sea Festival
Featuring everything from parades to classical concerts to the
occasional rock opera to spectacular firework displays, this
year’s Klaipėda Sea Festival promises to be bigger and better
than ever. The festival website at www.jurossvente.lt promises
a full schedule in English soon. If you’d like to attend, book a
hotel now or take a tent. There won’t be a spare bed in the city.
August 1 -5
City Birthday
Coinciding with the Klaipėda Sea Festival (see above) the
2012 City Birthday festival is going to try a little harder than
usual due to the fact that 2012 marks the 760th anniversary
of the founding of Klaipėda. Most of the many events, of which
several are genuinely worth attending, focus on the miscellaneous
historical facts and events connected with the city.
See www.klaipeda.lt for more information.
August 10 -12
Satta Outside
Those charming and usually stoned Vilnius ragamuffins at
Satta take over large parts of the resort of Šventoji again
this year for a two-day celebration of underground dance
music, not washing much and getting totally monged. Badly
organised of course, the festival promises several stages
of musical performance, mostly provided by teenage boys
wearing headphones. Joking aside, this is genuinely one of
the top events of the year of its kind in the region. See www.
sattaoutside.lt for more.
August 25
Pūsk, Vėjuži!
Now in its fifth year, the tiny village of Juodkrantė (see p.5) once
again hosts a day-long celebration of folk-themed events from
dancing to singing to traditional fishing. More information (in
Lithuanian only) online at www.lrezoskc.lt.
Klaipėda Carillon Concerts
A series of intriguing and unusual concerts every Saturday
and Sunday at 12:00 played on a large carillon installed in
the city’s Central Post Office in 2006, although the venue to
listening is next door in the garden of the city’s Timepiece
Museum (see p.27).
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
For a relatively small city with a culture revolving around
so many working class pursuits, Klaipėda does pretty well
on the cultural front. As well as the theatres, galleries and
other venues listed here, don’t forget to take a look at the
Sightseeing section of the guide for even more cultural
diversions.
Cinemas
Most films are shown in their original language with Lithuanian
subtitles.
Forum Cinemas Akropolis I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis),
tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt. Mostly Hollywood
blockbusters. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Concert halls
Klaipėda Concert Hall (Klaipėdos Koncertų Salė)
M-3, Šaulių 36, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 66, www.koncertusale.lt.
The best place in town for serious music concerts,
the innovative people who run this place also nurture young
musical talent, organise festivals and are also responsible for
the carillon at the top of the tower in the city’s main post office.
The large garden at the back has been turned into an outdoor
theatre for summer concerts of every persuasion. Q Ticket
office open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Švyturys Arena I-8, Dubysos 10, tel. (+370) 640 238
58, www.svyturioarena.lt. Built with EuroBasket 2011 in
mind, this relative new building provides more than just a
place to play and watch sport. As well as being able to handle
several different sports, Klaipėdos Arena also doubles as a
concert venue and exhibition and conference space. Q Ticket
office open 12:00 - 19:00. Also 2 hrs before the performance.
Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.
Cultural centres
Ethno-Cultural Centre (Etnokultūros Centras)
N-8/O-7, Daržų 10, tel. (+370) 46 41 01 08, www.etnocentras.lt.
The spiritual home of the city’s many folk and
folklore societies. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Simon Dach House (Simono Dacho Namai) L-5,
Jūros 7, tel. (+370) 46 31 14 81, www.simonodachonamai.tinkle.lt.
Representing the city’s old and new Germanspeaking
communities, this busy centre organises everything
from German language courses to the annual Day of German
Culture. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Švyturio Menų Dokas (Lighthouse Arts Dock) M-6,
Naujoji Uosto 3, tel. (+370) 685 600 50, www.dokas.
info. A large space close to the docks in a development
that’s so-far failed to develop much. Expect everything from
concerts of all descriptions to exhibitions, dance evenings,
cinema, theatre and special events for children. J
Galleries
Baroti Galerija O-7, Aukštoji 1, tel. (+370) 46 31 35
80, www.barotigalerija.lt. One of the best contemporary
galleries in the city, showcasing work in several media from
a wide selection of Lithuanian and international artists.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
JA
KKKC Parodų Rūmai N-7, Didžioji Vandens 2, tel.
(+370) 46 31 44 43, www.kulturpolis.lt. The largest
exhibition space in the western half of the country organises
exhibitions of all types from folk to experimental art, and features
the work of artists from Lithuania and abroad. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
We’ve got them all covered
Culture
Parko Galerija N-7, Turgaus 9, tel. (+370) 652 111
12, www.parkgallery.com. An interesting little gallery
showcasing locals contemporary art of varying styles in just
about all media. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. J
Pėda N-7, Turgaus 10, tel. (+370) 46 31 02 34, www.
karciauskas.com. A substantial gallery on two floors featuring
the work of the intriguing local artist Vytautas Karčiauskas
(b. 1954). All of the pieces on display are for sale. Look for the
large dragon on the wall opposite. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Photography
For an overview of the history of photography in Lithuania
plus information on contemporary photographers and exhibitions,
take a look at the excellent www.photography.lt.
Photography Gallery (Klaipėdos Fotografijos
Galerija) N-7, Tomo 7, tel. (+370) 615 494 70, www.
photoartklaipeda.lt. This fine gallery was recently put in the
hands of a small team of young and energetic locals hoping
to breathe some new life into what’s been up until recently a
rather dreary exhibition space. Check the website for upcoming
exhibitions. The gallery now also has a rather good bar
with outside seating in the park opposite during the summer.
QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Theatres
Klaipėda Drama Theatre (Klaipėdos Dramos
Teatras) M-7, Taikos 70 (Žvejų Rūmai), tel. (+370)
46 31 44 53, www.kldteatras.lt. The main theatre in the
city, putting on a wide range of plays alas in the Lithuanian
language only. Q Ticket office open 10:00 -18:00. Sun 2 hrs
before the performance. Closed Mon.
Klaipėda Puppet Theatre (Klaipėdos Lėlių Teatras)
O-7, Vežėjų 4, tel. (+370) 46 23 99 32, www.
klaipedosleliuteatras.lt. Unusual for a puppet theatre
behind the former Iron Curtain, this one was founded long
after independence in 2000. Aimed at bringing traditional
and modern puppetry to a predominantly young audience,
the theatre offers productions as well as workshops and other
activities throughout the year. Q Ticket office open Wed,
Thu 15:00 - 17:00. Also an hour before the performance. J
Klaipėda State Musical Theatre (Muzikinis Teatras)
N-5/6, Danės 19, tel. (+370) 46 39 74 04, www.
klaipedosmuzikinis.lt. Everything from musical shows for
children to the work of Wagner. Q Ticket office open 11:00
- 14:00, 15:30 - 18:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J
June 2012 - May 2013
11

12 Where to stay
As a moderately busy holiday and business destination,
Klaipėda’s accommodation scene is healthy if not
exactly thriving, with quality and choice ranging from
humble campsites to sparkling business-class amenities
complete with trouser presses and Jacuzzis. In scenes
reminiscent of March 1939, the city is invaded every summer
by scores of Germans, during which time finding a bed
can be difficult. Add to that the Sea Festival, when every
pillow in the city is taken, and booking in advance is highly
recommended.
Upmarket
Amberton Klaipėda M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1, tel. (+370)
46 40 43 72, fax (+370) 46 40 43 73, hotel@amberton.
lt, www.ambertonhotel.com. As close as Klaipėda comes
to boasting a city within a city, the gargantuan Amberton is
located in a prime location should you ever run out of things
to do whilst staying here. Featuring a range of rooms from
dangerously posh and expensive apartments to good value
rooms with all the trimmings, communal offerings include bars,
restaurants, a casino and plenty of sports and relaxation
facilities. Despite the sheer size of the place its popularity
with bus loads of Germans during the summer season
makes booking in advance highly recommended. Q 246
rooms (196 doubles from €49 - 75, 47 suites from €80/90,
2 apartments from €290, 1 family room from €140). PO
JHA6UFLKDXCW hhhh
Apart Hotel Ararat P-4, Liepų 47a, tel. (+370) 652
990 00, fax (+370) 46 40 08 80, info@ararat.lt, www.
ararat.lt. An excellent choice not too far from Old Town on the
north side of the river, Apart Hotel Ararat provides the classic
aparthotel experience in a range of options from standards
through to the jaw-dropping penthouse. Each room or series
of rooms comes with its own kitchen plus a plethora of treats
including televisions with plenty of channels and wireless
internet. The in-house Armenian restaurant is one of the
finest places to eat in the city. Q 28 rooms (240 - 650Lt).
PJHARLKDCW hhhh
Euterpė O-7/8, Daržų 9/15, tel. (+370) 46 47 47
03, fax (+370) 46 47 47 05, hotel@euterpe.lt, www.
euterpe.lt. A choice of quality singles, doubles and luxury
rooms in a smart-looking complex of old and new buildings
in the heart of Old Town, this business-class gem features
all the little perks necessary for a comfortable stay including
air-conditioning, internet connections and heated bathroom
floors. Extras include conference facilities, massage, gym and
a restaurant with a nice courtyard during the summer. Q23
rooms (4 singles 250Lt, 13 doubles 320Lt, 2 triples 440Lt,
4 suites 450 - 540Lt). PJHALKXW hhhh
National Hotel M/N-6, Žvejų 21/1, tel. (+370) 46
21 11 11, fax (+370) 46 41 61 72, info@nationalhotel.
lt, www.nationalhotel.lt. Smack bang in the middle of
the action and the prettiest part of the city, the National
Hotel is definitely worth considering even if you’re not on
an expense account. One of the few four-star hotels in the
country that lives up to its standard, the rooms are exactly
what you’d expect from this sort of establishment with extras
in abundance including conference facilities, in-house bar
serving excellent cuisine and even a round of golf on their
own course just outside the city. With so many of Klaipėda’s
top eating and drinking establishments little more than a brief
walk away, this is the ideal place to stay for those who like
to stay out late and potter home without the need of a taxi.
Q50 rooms (singles €87 - 105, 35 doubles €97 - 115, triples
€117 - 145, 8 suites €102 - 130, 7 apartments €130 - 199).
PJHAR6UKXW hhhh
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant J Old town location
D Sauna C Swimming pool
I Fireplace W Wireless Internet access
Navalis M-3, H. Manto 23, tel. (+370) 46 40 42 00,
fax (+370) 46 40 42 02, info@navalis.lt, www.navalis.
lt. A nicely restored 19th-century building in the heart of the
city, the gorgeous rooms with every conceivable necessity
come in a range of categories from standard to business
to luxury class. Friendly and suitable for everyone from
tourists to business travellers, extras include swimming
pool, great conference facilities, a recommended in-house
restaurant and rather fine little café. Q28 rooms (28
singles 160 - 230Lt, 28 doubles 195 - 265Lt, 5 triples 325
- 470Lt, 2 suites 325 - 360Lt, 3 apartments 400 - 435Lt).
PTJHAUILKDXCW hhhh
Radisson Blu Hotel Klaipėda M-3, Šaulių 28, tel.
(+370) 46 49 08 00, fax (+370) 46 49 08 15, info.
klaipeda@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotelklaipeda.
The city centre-located Radisson is a dream. Decorated
throughout with a distinctive nautical theme, small and
comfortingly personal, it’s a real haven of friendliness in a city
of many unpredictable hotels. The rooms come in several types
and classes, all of them complete with the classic Radisson
touches including free wireless internet, well-stocked minibars
and complimentary newspapers. Located on a quiet street next
to the Klaipėda Concert Hall, there’s a smashing restaurant that
also serves one of the best breakfasts in Lithuania. There’s
also a sauna, conference facilities and much more besides.
Q (20 singles €99 - 131, 25 doubles €139 - 161, 15 suites,
4 apartments). PJHARUFLKDXW hhhh
Vecekrug L-6, Jūros 23, tel. (+370) 46 30 10 02, fax
(+370) 46 31 22 62, info@vecekrug.lt, www.vecekrug.
lt. A small business class hotel with a family feel, rooms
come with all that’s needed for a pleasant stay. Close to the
centre on the road that runs parallel with the docks which
affords a nice view from some of the hotel’s windows, other
incentives for staying here include a sauna and small rooftop
terrace. Q23 rooms (4 singles 330Lt, 16 doubles 390Lt, 1
suite 450Lt, 1 business class room 500Lt). PTJHA
R6ULKDXCW hhhh
Mid-range
Aribė R-6, Bangų 17a, tel. (+370) 46 49 09 40, fax
(+370) 46 49 09 42, hotel@aribe.lt, www.aribe.lt. An
established favourite, Aribė is located on a quiet street not too
far from the centre and has been packing in happy, budgetconscious
travellers for years. The rooms are clean if a little
tatty these days, all of them having en suite facilities and free
internet connections. The average breakfast is a combination
of buffet food and hot cooked meals and the staff have been
known to open the kitchen and make meals for late arrivals. A
real classic and one of the best value hotels in the city. Q21
rooms (12 singles 130 - 165Lt, 8 doubles 185 - 199Lt, 1 suite
230 - 255Lt). JAR6LXW hhh
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Atlantas D-1, Sportininkų 46, tel./fax (+370) 46 41 00
66, rezervacija@atlantas.lt, www.viesbutisatlantas.lt. In
the north of the city, find a small selection of different rooms,
themselves divided into two categories, that are perfectly fine
if you don’t mind sleeping under a 1970s satin bedspread.
A bit far and a bit old-fashioned, the staff are at least jolly,
and the concrete Socialist Realist works of art on the sports
stadium next door really are superb if you appreciate that
kind of thing. Q14 rooms (2 singles 100 - 120Lt, 6 doubles
120 - 140Lt, 4 triples 150 - 170Lt, 2 suites 180 - 220Lt).
PTH6LKDCW hhh
Lūgnė O-8, Galinio Pylimo 16, tel./fax (+370) 46 41 18
84, klaipeda@lugne.com, www.lugne.com. Close to the
Old Market, this spectacular gem keeps all its eggs in one
basket so to speak and offers a staggering array of rooms
from the very cheap and basic to something altogether more
sophisticated. The sort of place where you’re likely to end up
on first-name terms with the staff, the lack of truly outstanding
features is more than made up for the colourful people
who work here. Q (27 singles 120 - 140Lt, 27 doubles 160
- 180Lt, 5 triples 150 - 210Lt). JA6LKXW hhh
Magnisima L-2, Janonio 11, tel. (+370) 615 130 46,
fax (+370) 46 31 09 01, info@magnisima.lt, www.
magnisima.lt. A good choice in a fairly central location, find
15 rococoesque rooms complete with en suite facilities,
satellite television and free wireless internet. A good price
and an equally good place in which to base yourself. Q 17
rooms (14 singles/doubles 180 - 220Lt, 2 suites 270Lt, 1
apartment 500Lt). PJHA6LKW hhh
Memel Hotel P-7, Bangų 4, tel. (+370) 46 47 49 00,
fax (+370) 46 47 49 55, info@memelhotel.lt, www.
memelhotel.lt. In a rather nice and serenely peaceful part of
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay
town just five minutes on foot from Old Town (their own claims
to actually be in Old Town itself are somewhat erroneous), the
newly opened Memel Hotel is located inside a castle-looking
building dating from the 19th century and features 50 double
rooms complete with en suite facilities, free wireless internet
and cable television. Very good looking indeed for a three-star
outfit, extras include all manner of treats from laundry service
to free parking to a lobby bar that never closes. Q50 rooms
(50 doubles €50 - 76). TJHA6ULKXW hhh
Basic data
Population
Lithuania 3,185,900 Klaipėda 177,800
Ethnic composition (Lithuania)
Lithuanians 83.7% Poles 6.6% Russians 5.3% Belarusians
1.3% Ukrainians 0.6% Others 3.3%
Territory
65,303km 2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and
the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,
peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest
distance is 276km, east to west is 373km
Borders
Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia 453km
Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km
Longest river
Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania)
Largest lake
Drūkščiai 4,479ha
Highest point
Aukštasis 293.8m
June 2012 - May 2013
13

14 Where to stay Where to stay 15
Morena Audros 8a, tel. (+370) 46 35 13 14, fax (+370)
46 40 19 05, admin@morenahotel.lt, www.morenahotel.lt.
If you’ve got your own set of wheels or don’t mind
using a taxi or bus to get in and out of the city, Morena is
more than a worthwhile option. A wee bit north of the centre
in Melnragė and close to the sea, this three-floor surprise
provides a good choice of singles, doubles and suites plus
a small business centre, sauna and fancy café to name but
a few of the extras. Excellent value accommodation in a
quiet location away from the noise and dirt of the city. Q26
rooms (5 singles 120 - 140Lt, 11 doubles 160 - 200Lt, 5
triples 180 - 260Lt, 4 suites 220 - 300Lt, 1 Family room
240 - 300Lt). HALKDW hhh
Old Mill Hotel L-7, Žvejų 22, tel. (+370) 46 21 92 15,
fax (+370) 46 21 99 21, info@oldmillhotel.lt, www.oldmillhotel.lt.
A marvellous-looking building in the developing
area close to the Castle Museum combining visual elements
of traditional local architecture and modernity. The Old Mill
affords splendid views of the harbour, with rooms coming in
singles, doubles and twins and featuring cable television,
minibars and air conditioning for those hot sticky seaside
summer nights. There’s also conference facilities and a
better than average restaurant. Q31 rooms (2 singles 180 -
250Lt, 29 doubles 200 - 280Lt). PTJHA6ULW
hhh
Old Port Hotel M-7/N-6, Žvejų 20, tel. (+370) 46 47
47 64, fax (+370) 46 47 47 65, info@oldporthotel.lt,
www.oldporthotel.lt. A choice of standards and deluxe
close to the upcoming area near the Castle Museum and the
cruise ferry terminal, this rather nice and decidedly modern
hotel offers everything from air conditioning to internet to
satellite television. There’s also a good restaurant, conference
facilities and a list of other services and facilities for
a comfortable and relaxing stay. Q 15 rooms ( singles
190 - 260Lt, doubles 215 - 290Lt, suites 320 - 450Lt).
PTJHAULKXW hhh
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Sleep smarts
I have a reservation
Aš esu užsisakęs kambarį
More toilet paper please
Norėčiau dar tualetinio popieriaus
Pajūrio Vieškelis Liepojos 7a, tel./fax (+370) 46 21
19 40, info@pajuriovieskelis.lt, www.pajuriovieskelis.
lt. Handy for car drivers uncomfortable with driving in the
city centre, this family-run hotel offers 11 standard and three
luxury rooms with all mod cons for a price that’s not exactly
the cheapest in town but that’s still good value for money. The
building and the interior are both unusual to say the least, plus
there’s conference facilities, parking, a sauna and even a pool
table. The hotel can be found about 6km north of Old Town
on the main road towards Palanga. Q14 rooms (3 singles
130 - 140Lt, 11 doubles 120 - 150Lt, 3 suites 170 - 200Lt).
HA6LDCW hhh
Palva E-6, Smiltynės 19, tel. (+370) 612 751 34, fax
(+370) 46 39 11 55, info@hotelpalva.lt, www.dryzuotas.
lt. This interesting option is perfect for visitors who want to
get the most of the city’s nautical heritage and pootle into
town on a boat three times a day. With a distinctly personal
feel to the place, the rooms are a bit old fashioned, but the
options of sauna, bicycle rental and a barbecue by the water
make it very tempting indeed. They also organise boat tours
and sea fishing trips. Q 17 rooms (singles 100 - 150Lt,
doubles 120 - 180Lt, triples 140 - 210Lt, quads 160 - 240Lt,
suites 180 - 280Lt). HAULDCW hhh
Park Inn By Radisson Klaipėda G-6, Minijos 119,
tel. (+370) 46 38 08 03, fax (+370) 46 48 20 30,
info.klaipeda@rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.
com/hotel-klaipeda. Park Inn is all about economy
whilst still managing to offer a decent experience. The
rooms are clean and modern, with free wireless internet
provided only in public areas. Also find a basic restaurant
and two meeting rooms. Q84 rooms (24 singles €45 -
65, 42 doubles €52 - 72, 6 suites €60 - 87). HAR
6UKXW hhh
Promenada M-1, Šaulių 41, tel. (+370) 46 40 30 20,
fax (+370) 46 40 30 21, hotel@promenada.lt, www.
promenada.lt. Close to the train and bus stations on a
quiet, leafy street, find 22 rooms to suit all needs and
tastes. Each comes with the classic things you’d expect
from a decent three-star hotel including satellite television,
bathrooms with a choice of showers or baths, and a
well-stocked minibar for quiet nights in. Internet access is
also available, plus there’s an in-house international restaurant.
Q 22 rooms (10 singles 130 - 190Lt, 10 doubles
150 - 240Lt, triples 200 - 290Lt, 5 suites 190 - 270Lt).
PTJAR6LKW hhh
Vėtra Taikos 80a, tel. (+370) 673 377 33, fax (+370)
46 34 60 63, vetra.klaipeda@hotel.lt, www.vetrahotel.
lt. Accomplishing more things with shades of brown than even
we thought imaginable, Vėtra is located about 10 minutes
out of the centre next to an old marketplace selling fruit,
vegetables and other exciting things. The place is not bad
and if you ask for a room, request the best, as it is in fact the
best by far. The additions of a sauna, conference facilities and
a restaurant make for a fairly reasonable deal. Q17 rooms
(14 doubles 120 - 200Lt, 2 triples 180Lt, 1 apartment 280Lt).
PHARLKDW hhh
Budget
Fortūna Poilsio 28, tel./fax (+370) 46 34 80 28, fortuna@
fortuna.lt, www.fortuna.lt. If you ever wanted proof of the
continuing German influence on contemporary Klaipėda, clap
a look at the bedrooms here. Magnificent in their faded chintz
appeal, the rooms inside this small, grey brick oddity in the south
of the city have got the word gasthaus written all over them.
A little expensive for your money, what you get is a bed, cable
television, minibar and little else. Scoring high on the quirky
scale, you’re either going to love this place or look for something
a little more modern. Q8 rooms (3 singles 80 - 140Lt, 2 doubles
100 - 160Lt, 3 suites 160 - 190Lt). R6LW
Guesthouses
Aismarės H-4, Tilžės 9, tel. (+370) 46 42 01 95, fax
(+370) 46 42 01 93, info@aismares.lt, www.aismares.
lt. Tucked away inside a quiet courtyard behind the Švyturys
factory complete with the occasional pleasant smell of
hops, the rooms are spartan, clean, and, for the price,
surprisingly well equipped. Surplus to a bed are satellite
television, en suite showers and wireless internet. Good for
groups, extras include conference facilities, Turkish bath,
sauna and small swimming pool. Q 10 rooms (8 doubles
120 - 170Lt, 1 suite 180 - 300Lt, 1 apartment 300 - 500Lt).
PTJHARLKDCW
Friedricho Svečių Namai O-7, Šaltkalvių 3, tel. (+370)
46 39 10 20, fax (+370) 46 39 10 19, hotel@pasazas.lt,
www.pasazas.lt. It was only a matter of time before the Friedricho
people opened a hotel and this splendid little guesthouse
is the welcome result. Boasting just six apartments including
the knockout Royal Apartment, you’ll have facilities coming
out of your ears no matter which you choose to stay in. The
price includes breakfast and parking, although you should be
warned that the check-in time is a rather disappointing 15:00.
Check the website for more information. Q8 rooms (7 doubles
148 - 513Lt, 3 quads 464 - 754Lt, 2 suites 262 - 363Lt, 6
apartments 316 - 754Lt). PJHAKW hhhh
Litinterp L-5, Puodžių 17, tel. (+370) 46 41 06 44/
(+370) 656 188 17, fax (+370) 46 42 01 76, klaipeda@
litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.com. If you overlook the almost
inescapable fact that anyone over 50 centimetres tall is going
to bang their head several times a day if they camp out on
the top floor, Litinterp can do no wrong. One of the oldest and
most respected names in post-Soviet Lithuania, Litinterp’s
business thrives on giving people clean albeit basic accommodation
with no frills, good service, quirky breakfasts in a
basket and a bill at the end of your stay that’s hardly going
to make a dent in your wallet. On a quiet street in the city
centre their reputation goes before them, so if you like the
idea of staying here during the peak season be sure to book
well in advance. Free wireless internet too. What more could
you possibly ask for? Q19 rooms (3 singles 70 - 100Lt, 10
doubles 120 - 160Lt, 2 triples 160 - 210Lt, 4 apartments
160 - 250Lt). TJA6LGW hh
Pirklių Namai L/M-5, Naujojo Sodo 12, tel. (+370)
682 566 22, fax (+370) 46 25 79 29, info@pirkliunamai.lt,
www.pirkliunamai.lt. Six spacious and agreeably
good value doubles and suites in a renovated 19th-century
building right in the centre of the city yet in a quiet part of it
surrounded by green. Facilities include free wireless internet
throughout and a range of extras from ironing service
to tourist information. Rooms can also accommodate an
extra bed for families or groups travelling on a particularly
tight budget. Q6 rooms (4 doubles 150 - 250Lt, 2 suites
250 - 340Lt). PJHA6LW
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013

16 Where to stay
Preliudija N-6/7, Kepėjų 7, tel. (+370) 46 31 00 77,
preliudija@gmail.com, www.preliudija.com. Right in the
heart of Old Town, the rooms are comfortable with all the
basics that you really need and none of the stuff that you
probably don’t. The staff are very pleasant, but you might
have to press the doorbell a few times to wake them up if
you return from a session in the middle of the night. Free
wireless internet is available throughout. Q6 rooms (6
doubles 140 - 250Lt). TJAR
Simon Dach House L-5, Jūros 7, tel. (+370) 46 31
14 81, www.sdh.lt. Exceptional value in the centre of the
city, the Simon Dach House provides three guesthousestyle
apartments complete with kitchenettes, televisions,
wooden floors and oriental rugs. One of the few places
around offering budget accommodation that’s also good
for groups and families. Q 5 apartments (100 - 170Lt).
TA6LW
Hostels
Klaipėda Hostel O-2, Butkų Juzės 7-4, tel. (+370)
655 944 07, info@klaipedahostel.com, www.klaipedahostel.com.
What you get for your money is a mild hostel
experience with the absolute minimum of facilities, which
thankfully costs buttons. Booking in advance is highly recommended
due to its rather small size. The location next to
the bus and train stations is a possible bonus but we doubt
it. Q 3 rooms (32 - 42Lt/person). JRW
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Kubu M-2, H. Manto 37a, tel. (+370) 619 658 41,
www.kubu.lt. A welcome addition to a town that seriously
lacks bottom-end budget accommodation, Kubu is
the sister enterprise to a nearby arty café. All rooms are
mixed dormitories with extra facilities including free wireless
internet, kitchen, laundry and no dreaded curfew. Bicycle
rental and tourism advice is also available. Q 4 rooms
(€10 - 16/night). JRLW
Apartments
Apartamentų Nuoma Tel. (+370) 698 201 58,
www.apartamentunuoma.lt. Several apartments,
some of which are very posh indeed, available for rent for
any period from a single night to long-term. The apartments
are all in Old Town or the centre. See the website
for information on each one. Q (100 - 350Lt/night).
J6W
Jukunda Molo 71, tel. (+370) 698 461 61, jukunda@
takas.lt, www.jukunda.lt. Several gorgeous self-contained
apartments next to a pine forest and a minutes’
walk from the sea, all coming with three luxury bedrooms,
bathrooms with washing machines, and modern, spacious
living rooms complete with 500-channel satellite television
and fast internet connections. There’s guarded parking, and
to top it all, saunas in the cellar. Perfect for those looking
for a luxury seaside break, or car owners doing business in
Klaipėda. Q 5 apartments (€100 - 200/night). T6DW
hhhh
Stora Antis Tiltų 1, tel. (+370) 686 250 20,
storaantis@gmail.com, www.storaantis.lt. Managed
by the people with the restaurant of the same
name, these select apartments in Klaipėda and
Palanga come with everything necessary for a nice
self-catering stay. Some are also available for long-term
rent. Have a look at the website for full information
about each one. Q 3 apartments (€45 - 70/night).
TAW
Camping
The inhabitants of Lithuania love being outdoors. They
also have an eye for a bargain. Accordingly, the campsites
of Lithuania can get very busy during the height
of the tourist season. Booking in advance is highly
recommended.
Pajūrio Kempingas Šlaito 3, Giruliai, Klaipėda, tel.
(+370) 677 732 27, camping@klaipedainfo.lt, www.
campingklaipeda.lt. Located in the tiny village of Giruliai
about 8km north of the centre and very close to the sea,
find space for a limited number of tents and camper vans
plus a few little chalets going for a song. Facilities include
electricity, washing area, bicycle rental and barbecue space.
Half way between the sea and the local station, trains run
regularly during the day to and from Klaipėda and take 10
minutes. Q 15Lt/person plus tent (15 - 20Lt) or camper
(20 - 40Lt).
Žiogelis Karklė, tel. (+370) 686 629 15, info@ziogelis.lt,
www.ziogelis.lt. Its claim as The Best Place in
the World may be a little far-fetched but don’t let us stop
you from camping here. Located just north of the city and
very close to the sea, what you get for your money is the
chance to pitch a tent, park a camper, rent a little wooden
summerhouse or fight over the guesthouse. There’s also a
sauna, café and sports facilities. Q 35Lt/person plus tent
(10Lt) or camper (35Lt).
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Ask a local to list the best places to eat in Klaipėda and
watch the creases on his forehead multiply. It’s just not
that sort of city. Agreed, there are one or two outstanding
places to eat, but, as with its nightlife options, if you’re in
town for a while you’ll soon run out of new places to visit
and enjoy. Add to this a modicum of howling, inept and occasionally
rude service and you’ll start to understand why
the local supermarkets do such a roaring trade. With a
couple of abysmal exceptions, the very best options are all
listed here. If you do feel the need to tip, 10% is generally
considered the norm.
Lithuanian
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant
in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features
pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of
potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent
of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and
is perhaps best described as a restaurant or café serving
predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites
in an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere other than in
Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the
good restaurant owners of Klaipėda and call the former of
the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of
restaurant together.
Europa O-7, Tiltų 13, tel. (+370) 600 859 02. Never quite
making it as either an international or Chinese restaurant,
Europa is currently masquerading as a place for middle-aged
gentlemen to come and drink cheap Švyturys whilst furtively
ogling the barmaid. Eating the food, which is best described
as Eastern European, isn’t compulsory. Early closing means
it’s an interesting place to start an evening of drinking and
little else. Odd. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 13Lt. PJAS
Flamingo M-4, H. Manto 38, tel. (+370) 46 31 06 50.
Next to the small statue of Herkus Mantas after whom the
street it’s on is named, you can treat this place as either a
café providing good frothy coffee and cakes or as something
altogether more substantial. Although the menu assumes an
international flavour the food is little more than basic Eastern
European fare, which is no bad thing indeed by the way. Like
just about every other restaurant in the country nowadays,
Flamingo also offers a reasonably flavoursome set workday
lunch. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00
- 20:00. 20Lt. PJABS
Friedricho Smuklė O-7, Tiltų 26a, tel. (+370) 46 21 13
90, www.pasazas.lt. Located along the infamous Friedricho
Pasažas, the city’s great little row of restaurants, cafés and
even a guesthouse all operating under the same banner,
this restaurant specialising in Lithuanian food suffers from
the occasional lack of staff when it’s busy but don’t let this
minor blemish put you off. The traditional dishes from around
Lithuania they make here are not only good but exceptionally
good value too. Worth further investigation at any time of year,
but especially during the summer when the space outdoors is
buzzing with life. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. PJAVBSW
Jogundė M-6, Danės 15, tel. (+370) 46 41 23 32. A
modern-looking affair catering to the local office workers
hereabouts, like a chameleon it changes throughout the
day to cater to what’s needed at the time. Good for an early
morning breakfast and a slice of sweet tinginys as well as
pumping out an edible buffet lunch, this is good backpacker
choice as well as an excellent spot for a quiet chat for two
during the less busy times of the day. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. 9Lt. PJABS
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
RestauRants
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking W Wireless Internet access
X Smoking place B Outside seating
I Fireplace J Old town location
Prices listed in the Restaurants section of this guide refer to
the average cost of a main course for one, excluding drinks.
Juodasis Vilkas Statybininkų 18, tel. (+370) 620 382
35. Found inside a converted school in a grey sleeping district
in the south of the city, the Black Wolf wavers between
genius and disaster depending on the mood of the staff and
whether anybody turns up to eat. Popular with families thanks
to a rather charming outdoor section, the food is no award
winner, but it’s worth a try on a balmy Sunday lunchtime for
an authentic taste of what the locals get up to in their spare
time. Don’t expect much English spoken, if any at all. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 18Lt.
PTAUBSW
Katpėdėlė I-8, Baltijos 24/64 (Arena), tel. (+370) 46
41 94 18, www.katpedele.lt. One of a number of national
chains of folk-themed restaurants, Katpėdėlė cater to the
slightly lower end of the market, offering the usual roll call
of classic Lithuanian fare delivered to your table by a bunch
of students dressed like their grandmothers. This branch
is slightly north of the centre inside a shopping centre and
opposite the German Soldiers’ Cemetery. QOpen 10:00 -
24:00. 15Lt. PTABSW
Liepžiedis O-4, Liepų 34, tel. (+370) 46 41 17 15. A
typically local affair with something of a canteen aesthetic,
to the right on entering is the place where you need to order
and wait to eat from a menu of predictable dishes whilst to
the left is a counter providing ready-to-eat food and salads
including a very passable vegetarian option. Good value food
worth further investigation if you happen to be in the area.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. 15Lt. JABS
Senamiesčio Baras O-7, Bažnyčių 4/10, tel. (+370)
46 41 22 37. Superbly hidden away and known to very
few, this isn’t what one expects from a restaurant inside a
courtyard full of art galleries and workshops. Dark and simple
inside, the food served up is the sort of stuff you’d expect to
find on a menu in a small Lithuanian town whilst the drinks
are equally conservative. There’s an excellent value business
lunch served here, plus the chance to rub shoulders with
some of the city’s leading contemporary artists. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. JBSW
Senoji Hansa N-7, Kurpių 1, tel. (+370) 46 40 00 56.
Lithuania in one, the square this place is located on could
easily be one of the liveliest and most charming public spaces
in the Baltics. Instead, like the curse of the Black Death the
summertime terrace is squashed down a narrow neighbouring
street giving punters a choice of walls to look at instead
of something altogether more enjoyable. The restaurant
itself knocks out good food at a surprisingly affordable price,
and the terrace can be a lively place on the right evening or
weekend afternoon. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
01:30, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. JABSW
June 2012 - May 2013
17

18 RestauRants RestauRants 19
2 Panoramic Restaurants
in the sky...
Look for them at
Trys Mylimos H-6, Taikos 23, tel. (+370) 46 41 14 79.
With the greatest respect to the occupants of Soviet-era
concrete housing estates the world over, this disappointing
Lithuanian restaurant is located in a Soviet-era concrete
housing estate. Whilst some restaurants wouldn’t find this a
problem, the staff here tend to treat everyone as if they live in
one of the flats nearby to the point of ignoring you even when
the place is practically empty. Thankfully the location will put
most people off. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. TABS
Armenian
Ararat P-4, Liepų 48a, tel. (+370) 46 41 00 01, www.
ararat.lt. An altogether exotic experience, this hotel restaurant
stands heads and shoulders above most of its contemporaries
both in standards of décor and what they put on your plate.
Complete with swirly Islamic patterns and brightly coloured rugs,
the menu is packed with classic Armenian dishes cooked by
an expert. Vegetarians avoid. Everybody else should certainly
consider paying them a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 21Lt. PTJAUBSW
Buffet express
Café Klaipėda O-2, Butkų Juzės 9 (Bus Station), tel.
(+370) 46 21 76 83. Grab a tray and edge your way around
the counter filling it up with the help of one of the young girls
working here. The food is classic Eastern European fodder,
surprisingly good value considering the location and, best of
all, ready to eat without the agonising wait. QOpen 08:00 -
20:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. 8Lt. PJABSW
Delano I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 659 551 71.
It’s a cheap self-service canteen in a large shopping centre 10
minutes from the city centre but so what? Surrounded by vast
windmills and silly dancing clocks, Delano makes no claims to
being anything other than a place to serve those who eat to live
rather than the other way round. The choice of instantly available
hot food on offer is impressive, plus there’s two salad bars,
a soup station and plenty of chilled desserts to keep everybody
happy and well fed. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. 12Lt. PAUSW
Senoji Hansa M-3, H. Manto 21, tel. (+370) 618 605
70. There was an awful moment not so long ago when this
super little place was the last business operating in the
building and it only seemed a matter of time before it also
bit the dust. Thankfully things have improved immensely of
late, meaning the best buffet food in Klaipėda lives to fight
another day. Whilst the scope of food on offer remains minimal,
it continues to beat everything else around for quality.
Outstanding sustenance in a jiffy. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 10Lt. JASW
COZY RESTAURANT
OFFERING
wide range of dishes
prepared on open grill
Hotel Amberton Klaipeda (12th floor)
Naujojo sodo str. 1, Tel. +370 46 404 372
Chinese
Jing Bin Lou N-7, Turgaus 23, tel. (+370) 46 25 79 37.
Friendly, affordable and liable to double your body weight if
you order the large portions, the substantial menu provides
solid if not entirely authentic Chinese dishes to suit most
tastes to be eaten in the usual atmosphere of red lanterns
and Lithuanian television. Both previous outings here met with
a completely empty restaurant and a staff-to-customer ratio
to die for, although lunchtimes can get painfully busy. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 18Lt. PTJABSW
French
Anikės Teatras N-7, Sukilėlių 8, tel. (+370) 46 31 44 71.
Actually more French in décor than in what they get up to in the
kitchen, this primarily international affair also serves some good
fish dishes and has a fine wine menu to go with it. Not bad food
and a superb location, be warned that during the summer tourist
season it can get excruciatingly busy with service known to grind
almost to a halt. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PTJABS
Fun
Inkaras Taikos 4a, tel. (+370) 46 30 04 44. Just south
of the market, Inkaras relies on see-through plastic bar stools
and childish colours rather than anything it does in the kitchen
to get people to part with their money. The food is international
in the widest sense of the word and is edible if little
else. Weekday lunchtimes hail the opening of a quick lunch
buffet service, and is useful for a substantial bite in amusing
surroundings. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat
11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 10Lt. ABS
Kebabs
Exotic dishes
RESTAURANT
and COCKTAIL BAR
with great
panoramic view
from 70 m height
Hotel Amberton Klaipeda (20th floor)
Naujojo sodo str. 1, tel. +370 46 404 372
Kebabai M-3, H. Manto 37. A simple hole in the wall
providing greasy kebabs of varying quality, the only reason
for including it here is the fact that they stay open
around the clock. Q Open 24hrs. J
Nerija D-4, Smiltynės 15, tel. (+370) 46 39 11 21.
If the weather’s bad it’s best to avoid this place like the
plague because the interior is pretty grim. If it’s warm
however, it’s more than worth the visit. Located immediately
south of ferry terminal on the Smiltynė side of
the Curonian Lagoon, ignore the fancy-sounding dishes
and take advantage of their excellent skewered kebabs
(šašlykai) which are cooked outdoors in the traditional
way. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 17Lt. TABSW
Ridikai H-8, Varnėnų 7, tel. (+370) 648 330 19. Total
chaos but good fun all the same, the owners of Ridikai on the
corner of the street that leads to the Second Ferry Terminal
(New Crossing/Naujoji Smiltynės Perkėla) have opted for
a no-menu approach with the chefs wandering the tables
offering suggestions and taking orders and a woman behind
the bar taking care of the drinks. They cook the meat to
almost perfection in here and even better you can order any
combination you like. On the minus side the range of drinks is
minimal to say the least, but this shouldn’t put potential diners
off. It’s a rare occasion indeed when a Lithuanian business
gets a gimmick right, and this is one of them. Recommended.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
20Lt. BS
Viva la Vita M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipėda
hotel), tel. (+370) 46 22 88 00, www.vivalavita.lt. Located
at the top of the K building Viva la Vita classifies itself
as a cocktail bar serving exotic food, which it undeniably is
and does although the main reason most people drop by is
for the breathtaking views of the harbour, lagoon, Curonian
Spit and Baltic Sea. It’s easier for a rich man to enter the
kingdom of God than get a window seat at sunset here, but
please don’t let that put you off. A visit to Klaipėda without
an ear-popping ride in the lift to visit this place is time very
badly spent indeed. Alongside the aforementioned delicacies
are some good bottles of beer and meat cooked on a
griddle. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. 27Lt.
PTJALSW
International
Eldorado M-2, Lietuvininkų 2, tel. (+370) 46 33 33
33. Back after a prolonged spell of closure, Eldorado is
even stranger and more kitsch than before. A long, thin,
underground space decorated by somebody with a possible
love of 1960s sci-fi, it’s impossible to pin down just exactly
what this place is. The average international food is dressed
up to new levels of ostentation, the abundance of bright
red absolutely everywhere is positively disturbing and the
large screens that get taken over whenever there’s basketball
on the television make a complete mockery of any
predispositions to intimacy. Absolutely bonkers. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00.
27Lt. PTJABSW
Fat Cat N-6, Žvejų 21, tel. (+370) 46 41 61 73. The
restaurant whose dubious claim to fame is that Adolf Hitler allegedly
ate here in 1939, despite the total overhaul inside and
the change of name, Fat Cat remains pretty much the same
as it ever was. For those who never visited, it’s a pleasant
place for both eating and drinking with a good menu including
locally caught smoked fish that often sees a representative
selection of the city’s expat community swearing in various
Scandinavian languages and falling of the bar stools during
several evenings each week. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PTJASW
Keltininko Namas M-7, Žvejų 20, tel. (+370) 46 47
47 64, www.oldporthotel.lt. The food is excellent, and
the service speaks of good taste, experience and respect.
That would be enough for us to give this place a glowing
recommendation, but adding to those important factors
are the gorgeous building and a lovely location right by
the river. Plus you can eat duck and watch happy sunburnt
people glide by on their expensive yachts. The atmosphere
is elegant and refined and, to top it all off, the prices are not
at all unreasonable for a hotel restaurant.QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. 28Lt. PTJAUS
La Clé N-7, Sukilėlių 10, tel. (+370) 693 123 55. An
award-winning Lithuanian chef oversees the preparation
of a small menu of changing dishes made from fresh ingredients
inside a restaurant Klaipėda’s been crying out
for for years. The food is mostly meat- and fish-based,
looks good, tastes good and is complimented with a fine
menu of wines. Everything’s prepared in an open kitchen
and we’re still struggling to believe it really exists. Recommended.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat
12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 25Lt. TJABS
Lūja M-4, H. Manto 20, tel. (+370) 46 41 24 44.
Adding a slice of much needed class to what remains
a fairly lacklustre culinary street this marvellous white
tablecloth affair serves ambitious, unpretentious international
food in lovely surroundings. Service is a bit
random as is the norm, but that aside you could do a
hell of a lot worse. Particularly good for large groups of
diners. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 28Lt. PTJA6U
LEBSW
Navalis M-3, H. Manto 23, tel. (+370) 46 40 42
00, www.navalis.lt. Where the smart local and expat
business professionals come to dine, unlike most hotel
restaurants this one is worth going out of your way for.
A simple-looking affair with large windows overlooking
one of the liveliest streets in town, the service is some
of the best in the region and the international menu,
which changes daily, is a constant hit among those in the
know. Try one of their superb steaks or pasta dishes, or,
if you’re looking for a cracking bargain, take advantage
of the weekday business lunch. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
32Lt. PTJAULSW
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013

20 RestauRants RestauRants 21
Pizza
Bambola M-5, H. Manto 1, tel. (+370) 46 43 33
33. Loved and avoided in equal measures, the somewhat
controversial Bambola churns out perfectly fine pizzas
for a song to people who don’t mind their Italian food not
very Italian. Some people swear blind this is the best
restaurant in town (it isn’t), a claim that’s about to be put
to the test as the national pizza chain Čili Pica takes up
residence across the street. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00, Fri
09:30 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 12Lt. JABSW
Charlie Pizza N-4, Mažvydo 4, tel. (+370) 612 323
54, www.charlie.lt. It came as no great surprise to
learn that the truly awful cocktail bar that stood on this
site a year ago went out of business much in the same
way as it came as no great surprise to see a Charlie Pizza
in its place. Currently taking over city centres throughout
the country, this hugely popular restaurant may not make
much of an impression in Italy, but by local standards at
least the pizzas are more than ok. There’s other international
and local dishes on offer as well, and a good
range of cold cheap beer. The summer terrace is a fine
place to sit and watch the world go by at any time of day
or night. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 15Lt. PTJVBSW
Čili Pica N-5, Liepų 2, tel. (+370) 46 21 02 01,
www.cili.lt. Finally taking the plunge and opening a
restaurant in the very centre of the action, national pizza
heroes Čili Pica’s latest Klaipėda restaurant is a variation
on a theme of all the others, meaning carefully chosen
décor to offend nobody and friendly staff barely out of
school who make up for their ineptitude with bucket
loads of conviviality. The pizza is edible and good value
for money, plus there’s plenty of other things on the menu
for those who don’t understand the attraction. Also at H.
Manto 31. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 13Lt. PTJAUBSW
Friedricho Picerija O-7, Tiltų 26a, tel. (+370) 46 49
35 93, www.pasazas.lt. Concentrating their energy on
classic Italian pizza pays off here, as the pizza in question is
very good indeed. As well as the classic Italian peasant dish
complete with scores of toppings is a menu of other dishes
for those who prefer to eat something different. A nice touch
to this bright and cheerful place is the addition of scores of
decorated pizza dishes stuck to the ceiling. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 16Lt. PJAVBSW
Pipita N-2, S. Nėries 10, tel. (+370) 46 21 34 41,
www.pipita.lt. An often overlooked gem of a find, quite
possibly because of its location close to the bus and
train stations, as well as some fiendishly cheap pizzas
is a small menu of Lithuanian food which is good value
at any time of day and practically free when it’s added to
the weekday lunch specials. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. 9Lt. PJAVBS
Submarine O-7, Tiltų 18, tel. (+370) 46 31 13 33.
Alongside one of the best four-cheese pizzas known to
humanity is a catalogue of well-priced local fare such
as potato pie with pigs’ trotters and potato pancakes
stuffed with curd. Located on the main street in the Old
Town, the summertime outside seating provides a perfect
setting for watching the world go by. Also at Taikos
52c. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. 13Lt. TJAVBSW
XIX Amžius N-2, S. Nėries 16a, tel. (+370) 46 21 66
19. Indulge your fantasies of the 19th century in this former
narrow gauge railway station just across the street from the
modern one courtesy of a splendidly decorated series of
halls and the usual gaggle of young waitresses who clearly
never received any training. Recently opened, reports filtering
back say that the food, which is both traditional and modern,
is actually not too bad. There’s also a nice big terrace which
despite the slightly grim surroundings generally offers a better
atmosphere than being stuck in the somewhat empty-feeling
interior. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00
- 22:00. 20Lt. PTJAUEBSW
Italian
La Terrasse M-7, Žvejų 10, tel. (+370) 676 319 99. It
wasn’t that long ago that most Italian restaurants in Lithuania
got their bread from the supermarket, in fact many still do.
Not here though. Using only fresh ingredients eat your way
through a menu of pizza, pasta and other dishes in simple surroundings
whilst attended by good-natured staff. Even if you’re
not after a full meal it’s worth a visit for their hot fresh bread
alone. The location next to river really should make this fairly
recent addition to the city’s restaurants a real winner. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 00:00 - 24:00. 22Lt. TJABSW
Ryžių Malūnas L-7, Žvejų 22, tel. (+370) 46 47 47 64,
www.oldporthotel.lt. One of two restaurants inside the
same hotel, the Rice Mill’s reputation as a better than average
place to gorge on recommended Italian food demands
further investigation. The bill of fare features arguably the
best pizzas in town plus a handful of other classic Italian
favourites including one or two highly commendable pasta
dishes. The view of the river is also worth a brief mention.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 18Lt. PTAUBS
Juice bars
Sula N-4, Mažvydo 6, tel. (+370) 674 415 99. Hiding away
at the back of a shop selling all manner of natural products,
the arrival of a juice bar in Klaipėda is a welcome thing indeed.
Located on the city’s small but growing pedestrian street,
what this place lacks in style it more than makes up for in
its ability to assist the overcoming of a vitamin-destroying
night on the tiles. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. PJS
Mediterranean
Friedricho Restoranas O-7, Tiltų 26a, tel. (+370)
46 30 10 70, www.pasazas.lt. Featuring predominantly
Mediterranean dishes and posh wine, Friedricho Restoranas
represents the very best of eating and drinking along one of
the city’s most famous streets. Using fresh ingredients including
Spanish olives marinated on the premises, recommended
are the Spanish ham and Greek-style bread. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 35Lt. PJAVEBSW
Russian
Ferdinandas L-4, Naujoji Uosto 10, tel. (+370) 46 31
36 81. A cracking Russian restaurant, that, with the exception
of a couple of samovars and the costumes they drape
the staff in, doesn’t take its Russian pedigree too seriously.
Historically speaking, the menu here is a treasure, being
supposedly derived from the notes of the infamous Russian
prime minister-gourmet Pyotr Stolypin. Try the soup served in
a loaf of bread, a classic Russian favourite that’s more than a
meal in itself. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
20Lt. PTJABS
Slavic
Stora Antis N-6, Tiltų 6, tel. (+370) 46 49 39 10, www.
storaantis.lt. The fat duck is a charming fairy-tale place
scattered with knick-knacks and cleverly tucked away in an
Old Town street. The range of food is impressive and should
offer something for everyone, while the amicable atmosphere
will keep everyone happy. Not content with just running a
restaurant, Stora Antis now rents apartments in Klaipėda
and up the road in Palanga. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 35Lt. JBSW
Steak
Trapiche Steakhouse O-7, Tiltų 26a, tel. (+370) 46
30 10 70, www.pasazas.lt. Opposite the Blacksmiths’
Museum at the far end of the passage, surplus to the different
types of steak they serve are a range of other dishes
including lamb and fish. Somewhat strangely for a Lithuanian
restaurant, the people here actually know what they’re doing
and can recommend exactly the right wine to go with
the food. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 40Lt.
PJAVBSW
Sushi
Sushi Express P-4, Danės 6, tel. (+370) 630 009 09.
Now safely scattered in all three major Lithuanian cities,
Sushi Express’ Klaipėda restaurant conforms to earlier openings
around the country by positioning the place in a rather
obscure location. Don’t let that put you off though. This may
not be sushi at its best, but for Eastern Europe it’s not so
bad. The range is impressive and there are a few party sets
going as well. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00.
13Lt. JBS
Swiss
Haemmerli N-7, Didžioji Vandens 13/16, tel. (+370)
46 31 12 09. Not only are the food and service top-notch,
but the little extras such as homemade bread make this
place a well deserved institution. The only Swiss restaurant
in the country, Haemmerli also prepares a few other dishes
of equal magnitude. The bright and unfussy atmosphere
and the summer outdoor seating are very hard to beat.
QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 20Lt.
PTJABSW
Thai
TaiFun N-6, Turgaus 17, tel. (+370) 46 21 04 46. Doubling
as a cocktail bar, TaiFun mixes bamboo décor with a
cutting-edge bar, the result something of a compromise as
you’d expect. The girls who work here are friendly but by all
accounts neither the food nor the cocktails are particularly
outstanding. Discounts to loyal visitors and a VIP room also
available. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. 10Lt.
PTJABSW
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Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013

22
CAfÉS
AJ Šokoladas N-4, J. Karoso 9, tel. (+370) 618 771 99,
www.ajsokoladas.lt. A small café on a side street, notable
for selling handmade chocolates from Trakai. Limited seating
is available for coffee although there’s nowhere to plonk your
behind outside. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JAS
Black & White M-4, H. Manto 7 (Manto Namai), tel.
(+370) 613 171 50. It took forever to finish building the
dreadful shopping centre Black & White’s located in, and the
wait wasn’t worth it. What were they thinking of? Dreadful
décor, indifferent staff and coffee like your Nan makes. Two
decades of independence and some people are still getting
it very wrong indeed. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. TJAUEBS
Café Kubu M-4, H. Manto 10, tel. (+370) 676 420
18. The distinct lack of the country’s student-orientated
franchise cafés in the city is more than made up for with
the help of Café Kubu. Frequented by several DJs and their
hangers-on, expect an imaginative music policy, people
with piercings behind the counter and an excellent choice of
coffee and snacks. Weekend evenings often see the previously
mentioned DJs playing live. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
PJABSW
Coffee Inn N-6, Tiltų 2, tel. (+370) 699 775 41, coffeeinn.lt.
Finally the country’s trendy café chain comes to
Klaipėda, although judging by the low attendance figures so
far Klaipėda isn’t quite ready for it. Perhaps this is something
to do with the lack of outside summer seating of which many
other places nearby have, and maybe winter will be kinder to
them. Visitors who do visit will however be treated to some of
the best coffee and snacks in town. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00,
Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
PJBW
Cukrainė N-6, Žvejų 17, tel. (+370) 46 21 02 93. Run
by the former bar manager at Vilnius’ once magnificent club
Gravity on behalf of his mother, not surprisingly this onetime
nondescript café and short-lived kebab house is now
one of the hippest addresses in town. Small and intimate
and aimed at young people who aren’t afraid of mixing their
cigarettes with other substances, in most European cities
Cukrainė would go almost unnoticed. Here on the other hand
it positively shines out like a beacon. We’ve been wondering
when Klaipėda would join the 21st century. It just did. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. JSW
Max Coffee N-7, H. Manto 22, tel. (+370) 640 555
57. Sandwiches, muffins, a canteen feel, friendly waitresses
and young people glued to their laptops. The coffee passes
as coffee and the prices are reasonable. What more do you
need? QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00
- 21:00. PJASW
Bakeries
Bandelių Namai L-2, J. Janonio 6, tel. (+370) 46
31 07 22. A great choice of cakes and buns made on the
premises, this small bakery is a huge hit with the locals
and is never without a customer. Great for grabbing a
bite whilst on the hoof, they also do a fine pizza. Recommended.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JS
Pitliaus Skanėstai O-6, Tiltų 17/22, tel. (+370)
615 940 08, www.pitlius.lt. Slightly hidden from the
main street, Pitlius functions almost exclusively as a
bakery and patisserie but also has a couple of chairs
and tables and the option of tea and coffee. Nothing
spectacular, it simply provides the option to take a short
break in quiet surroundings. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00. JBS
Menas ir Kava N-6, Tiltų 3, tel. (+370) 656 337 68.
The offshoot of a local cultural organisation, this is more or
less as cutting edge as it gets here. Part café, part gallery,
it’s a bit scatter cushions and Bob Marley, but the intentions
of promoting young local artists are honourable. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. PJE
Navalis M-3, H. Manto 23, tel. (+370) 46 40 42 00,
www.navalis.lt. Hugely popular with the city’s business
community as well as local celebrity wives and all manner
of other home-grown characters, expect reasonable service,
superb espresso, a wonderful value weekday business
lunch and the possibility to eat from the menu of the classy
if almost always empty restaurant next door. With the addition
of outside seating (the terrace is a veritable sun trap
in the mornings) plus free wireless internet, Navalis comes
highly recommended indeed. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PT
JAULBSW
Vero Cafe N-6, Tiltų 1, tel. (+370) 618 559 10. On the
opposite corner to Coffee Inn Vero Café is the slightly less
pretentious of the two but is basically a carbon copy with
more than a passing nod to Starbucks. The coffee’s fine and
the sandwiches and snacks aren’t too bad either, but for the
summer at least there really are better places to sit in the
warm and ingest caffeine. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. PJBSW
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
For the country’s third city, Klaipėda’s nightlife options
are few and far between. Good news for the bar and club
owners for sure, but a bit of a shame if you’re in town
for a few nights and like to spread yourself around. On
the positive side, what bars and clubs that do exist are
reasonably varied and there are one or two absolute
corkers. Prices are rising all the time, although a good
night out in the city remains reasonably affordable. The
home of Švyturys beer, do make sure you try at least
one of their brews, which as always is best sampled
from the lip of an ice-cold bottle. In all bars and clubs,
take care of your valuables and never leave wallets and
mobile phones unattended.
Bars
Bar4Soul N-7, Turgaus 10, tel. (+370) 674 679 80. If
only this place even half lived up to its rather super interior
it’d be worth popping in for a drink. Unfortunately however, it
really is a bit awful in its derivativeness. Trying to be many
things and failing in all of them, this recently opened establishment
would’ve been embarrassing in Vilnius a decade
ago. If you like weak cocktails, badly dressed young people
and unimaginative DJs on the other hand, this may well be
the place for you. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 14:00 - 24:00,
Sun 14:00 - 20:00. JAEBW
Friedricho Baras M-4/5, H. Manto 5, tel. (+370)
46 21 87 17, www.pasazas.lt. Further expanding their
empire, these good people have upped sticks and crossed
the river for the purpose of taking over one of the most
prestigious addresses in town after two of its predecessors
met untimely ends. Complete with the strangest collection
of photographs glued to the walls, as well as serving a great
range of drinks, they also dish up a wealth of affordable pub
grub. The booth seating by the massive windows is some
of the best for people watching in the city. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:30, Sun 12:00 - 22.00.
PJAEBSW
Wine
Senoji Vyninė N-6, Žvejų 5, tel. (+370) 610 412
04. Sumptuous and often empty, this exceedingly
classy, white tablecloth affair offers both food and wine
at extremely affordable prices. The only drawback by all
accounts is that the food isn’t worth eating, although
for a tempting location for a romantic binge drinking
session without an audience this is the place to head
for. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
PTJAB
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Jazz
Nightlife
Kurpiai N-7, Kurpių 1a, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 55,
www.jazzkurpiai.lt. Some of the best and some of
the worst jazz in Lithuania gets played in this compact
wooden space, which is a shame because if they
kept the riff-raff out and concentrated their efforts on
providing quality live performers whilst developing the
place as a bar this would be one of the top 10 after
dark venues in the country. As it is, visiting is a game of
cultural Russian roulette. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. Entrance free - 15Lt.
PJAEBS
Leika N-7, Tomo 7, tel. (+370) 601 891 79. Located
underneath the city’s fine little Photography Gallery, Leika
(Leica) is aimed at anyone with even a passing interest
in culture, or beer. The photographic theme is a welcome
relief after the usual turgid décor found in most local bars
and the choice of alcohol should keep everybody happy.
Recommended. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun
16:00 - 02:00. PJEBW
Muitinė H-4/5, Tilžės 6, tel. (+370) 46 38 22 30. A
dinky little bar serving cheap food and a good range of alcohol,
Muitinė is sometimes known to fill with colourful locals
during the evening and can be an interesting diversion from
the usual places in town aimed at foreigners. The nice little
courtyard overlooking a quiet street is a fine place to start
a pub crawl of some of the more offbeat places Klaipėda
has to offer. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
AB
Rio Pub N-6, Kepėjų 17/6, tel. (+370) 646 365 60.
It’s extremely hard to pin this one down as it represents
something very Lithuanian indeed that doesn’t translate
easily into words in any language. The brainchild of a busy
albeit not very interesting DJ, they’ve attempted to describe
themselves using all manner of temptations such as soul food
(the last time we looked the supermarkets of Lithuania were
hardly overflowing with the likes of yuca, so we’re guessing
they mean chicken) whilst simultaneously trying to get punters
excited by offering such exotic fare as soup and beer. If it’s
still here the same time next year we’ll eat our hat. QOpen
15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. JEBSW
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013
23

24 Nightlife Nightlife 25
Skandalas L-3, I. Kanto 44, tel. (+370) 46 41 15 85,
www.skandalas.info. Lashings of vintage Americana line
every wall and windowsill of this classic favourite, adding
food for the eyes to a consistently fine and ambitious menu
of seafood, pasta, fajitas, steak and plenty of other fun
dishes. Both a restaurant and a bar, Skandalas has been
packing them in for years, and for good reason. Recommended
for a meal or a few cocktails accompanied by one
of the live bands who grace the stage from time to time,
there’s nothing quite like this one for atmosphere or style.
If a place isn’t in the centre of the action as has been
popular for more years than most care to remember, it’s
impossible to deny that they must be doing something very
right indeed. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PJAUEBSW
Sky 21 Terrace M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1a, tel. (+370)
641 217 31. Perched 70 metres up on the top of the city’s
K building, this recently opened al fresco hangout affords
magnificent views of the Baltic Sea and the surrounding
region whilst simultaneously failing to impress in any other
way. It’s almost as if they decided that the location was
all that was needed, when in actual fact there’s far more
to a venue than the view. Ultimately though you’d be a
fool to not give it a go, but please don’t expect anything
special. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 03:00.
JAEBW
Sputnik N-6, Žvejų 4a, tel. (+370) 650 424 55. More
Soviet Union than European Union, Sputnik would no doubt
have been rather exciting 20 years ago, but the idea of
opening a place like this in the 21st century is almost
laughable. Definitely worth avoiding during the day when
the neighbouring riverside bars and restaurants offer a
far better experience, to be fair they do occasionally get
it right although this usually involves booking acts from
Vilnius. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00.
PJEBW
XII M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipėda hotel),
tel. (+370) 46 40 43 72. Contrary to popular belief, the
big K building hasn’t quite taken the wind out of this place’s
sails and the view, if slightly blocked, remains superb.
Although really a restaurant (the excellent value steaks
and salads are particularly good), people still come up here
for a good drink with an equally pleasing view. The ocean
panorama may have been eclipsed by its newer cocktail
bar neighbour, but this is still the place to come for a
commanding view of the city sprawled out below. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PJAESW
Clubs
Due to the universal law stating that it’s impossible to
be in all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide
are written to provide a general overview of what’s to be
expected if you visit them. As any serious clubber already
knows, nights change with alarming regularity, good
promoters come and go and expected crowds fail to turn
up. For precise information about what to expect on any
given night at the following establishments, you’re strongly
advised to check the club’s website.
Dr. Who M-5, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipėda
Hotel), tel. (+370) 640 444 84, www.drwho.lt. At first
glance it’s a rather daft name to call a club, but thinking about
it for a minute it’s not actually all that bad. A veritable time
machine of a place, complete with plenty of swinging hits
of yesteryear if you hit it on the right night, Dr. Who blends
club and cabaret to perfection, keeping the sparkly punters
coming in droves to enjoy the fun. The attached terrace also
offers the chance to come earlier and enjoy a drink and the
view before the night really begins. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance 20Lt. PAE
Kiwi E-2, J. Janonio 27, tel. (+370) 633 535 35, www.
kiwiclub.lt. Every Lithuanian city of note has its own school
disco, with Kiwi representing Klaipėda very nicely indeed. Entirely
unpretentious and churning out a veritable cavalcade of
nights from electronica to disco-oriented student nights, readers
scanning this review in December 2012 are recommended
to give them a call before turning up as this place changes
hands on a frighteningly regular basis. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance free - 10Lt. PAE
Martini R-7/8, Taikos 64/24b, tel. (+370) 612 334 44,
www.martini-club.lt. Over-21s, preferably with their own
BMWs, sharp suits and accompanying dollybirds only need
apply. If they do make the grade and manage to squeeze
past the weightlifters on security they should expect the
cream of the city’s new rich celebrating their wealth amidst
red PVC seating and vast Martini signs. Appropriate DJs,
live bands and cabaret acts complete the picture. QOpen
23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Entrance free - 20Lt.
PJAEW
Port L-5, Naujoji Uosto 11, tel. (+370) 612 555 00. Port
was threatening to open during research but evaded capture
until after we left, so here’s what you need to know based
on reports from others. Featuring an interior with splashes of
inspiration from the minds of a joint Bulgarian-US-Lithuanian
design team and a 15kw sound system, Port appears to be
aimed at a younger crowd and offers the classic Lithuanian
club experience including theme nights, local DJs and an
entirely pleasant if not exactly cutting-edge atmosphere.
QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Sun. Entrance 20Lt. PJAEB
Relax N-7, Turgaus 1/9, tel. (8-700) 555 55, www.nesepb.lt.
It’s hard to argue with 13,912 Facebook fans, the amount
of supporters this nightspot was garnering at press time. Part
of a large complex that includes a casino and restaurant, Relax
caters to a slightly older crowd than most of the city’s clubs
although in true style it still manages to pack in plenty of puerility
including that Lithuanian institution known as the nurse
evening. The mind boggles. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00, Thu 22:00
- 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance free -15/25Lt.
PJAB
Roxy L-1, Priestočio 9, tel. (+370) 671 999 98, www.
roxyclub.lt. Found between the bus and train stations and
not exactly the most prestigious address in town, Roxy’s
calendar of events veers all over the place from cheesy
student nights to live music from some excellent local and
international bands. As always, check the website to avoid
disappointment. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. Entrance free - 20Lt. PAE
Casinos
According to Lithuanian law, all visitors to casinos need
to take an internationally recognised form of picture ID
(preferably a passport) with them and register before
being allowed inside.
Olympic Casino M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton
Klaipėda hotel), tel. (+370) 46 49 23 10, www.
olympic-casino.lt. Q 24hrs. JA
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013

26 Nightlife
Cocktails
El Calor N-6, Kepėjų 10, tel. (+370) 699 294 00. Currently
reinventing itself as a cocktail bar that stays open late,
it’s unclear whether this former nightclub that really still is a
nightclub by any other name is going to make it. Arguably
worth a visit to experience the locals’ idea of sophistication,
in its favour (at least for some) are the cream of the city’s
beautiful women who like to frequent the place and generally
look rather lovely. Worth a visit for a quick drink before heading
off to somewhere better. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. JAE
Microbreweries
Livonia M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipėda hotel),
tel. (+370) 46 22 88 22. Celebrating the arrival in the city
750 years ago of the Livonian Monks, who as monks often do
brought their own booze with them, this large microbrewery
is part German beer hall and part theme park. Serving as an
international restaurant and a place to get good value buffet
food at lunchtime as well, the best time to visit is during
the summer season when the weekend evening sessions
complete with live music even get the Germans up on the
dance floor. The beer they make incidentally is very good
indeed. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. PJAU
Memelis N-6, Žvejų 4, tel. (+370) 46 40 30 40, www.
memelis.lt. A veritable Brazilian soap opera of a place,
it’s anyone’s guess what fabulous surprises Memelis will
bring over the next 12 months. You can’t fault the look
and feel of the place, the refreshing in-house beer in four
varieties and the location next to the river complete with
some of the best summer outdoor seating in the city.
Housed inside a classic Germanic warehouse building,
there’s food too, although the main reason for dropping
by is to get completely wasted on the local ale. Memelis
(the Lithuanian word for Memel) is one of the two places
of choice for Klaipėda’s expat drinking community. QOpen
16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. JABSW
Adult entertainment
Paradise M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipėda
Hotel, 2nd floor), tel. (+370) 604 521 52, www.
paradiseclub.lt. Ahhhhhh, lesbian shows, limousines
and Jacuzzis, what more could a man with a credit card
need? They don’t call it Paradise for nothing. For a full
list of their naughty services, take a look at the website
when nobody’s looking. QOpen 20:00 - 07:00. Entrance
80 - 100Lt. PJAW
Bowling & Billiards
Honolulu Bowling M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton
Klaipėda hotel), tel. (+370) 46 22 99 99, www.
honolulu.lt. Big, bright and decorated with a beach
theme, also find pool tables, slot machines and a sports
bar. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. PJA
Metro 0-7, Tiltų 16, tel. (+370) 676 402 82.
A handful of average pool tables and a bar in the
basement of an Old Town shopping centre. Q Open
24hrs. JA
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
With little left in the way of historical sights and barely a
handful of museums to its name, Klaipėda is by no stretch
of the imagination the Florence of the Baltics. Having said
that, what little there is to explore can be, especially with
the aid of a local expert, a rewarding experience.
Museums & Galleries
Both local and national museums and galleries in Lithuania
are slowly getting dragged and kicked into the 21st
century, and visiting them is an excellent way of getting
to grips with what remains for most visitors a confusing
and conflicting history of events. Be warned that most
museums and galleries nationwide are closed at least
one day a week (usually but not always a Monday) and
don’t turn up late in the day as many places stop selling
tickets at least 30 minutes before they finally bolt the
doors for the day. In general tickets remain exceedingly
affordable.
Blacksmith Museum (Kalvystės Muziejus) O-8,
Šaltkalvių 2, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 26. Established in
1993 and worth a quick look around, the city’s singularly
peculiar Blacksmith Museum provides both a glimpse
inside the world of the smithy as well as a tantalising
look into the rich ethnic and cultural past of the region.
Displays include exhibits showing off the many skills
involved in the craft, with a large knot of miscellaneous
crosses upstairs. In the back yard are original crosses
displaying a multitude of local languages, several of them
now extinct. The small building at the back of the complex
is a working blacksmith’s workshop, where displays of the
craft are given. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission 5/2.50Lt. J
Castle Museum (Pilies Muziejus) M-8, Pilies 4, tel.
(+370) 46 41 05 27. First mentioned way back in 1252,
the city’s mighty castle stood on this site in its many guises
for centuries until it was finally dismantled towards the end
of the 19th century. This recommended museum, located
inside two separate underground sections of what remains
of the structure uses what little resources it has to illustrate
both the history of the building and the city in general with
the help of a galaxy of display cases, models in medieval
costumes and the like. Of particular interest are a series of
gorgeous paintings of the castle and the city in its heyday,
photographs from WWII and the Soviet reconstruction of
the city and an exhibit about a proposed 50km tram route
that’s hoped to link Klaipėda with Palanga, a project most
see as little more than a white elephant. Outside, a section
of the castle foundations has been revealed, complete with
display boards explaining how everything originally looked
and what their purpose was. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission 6/3Lt. J
History Museum of Lithuania Minor (Mažosios
Lietuvos Istorijos Muziejus) N-7, Didžioji Vandens
2, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 24. A fascinating little museum
staffed by a lovely bunch of old ladies and offering a unique
look into the unusual history of the region. The inside,
more reminiscent of the innards of a large wooden sailing
ship than a museum, is crammed with all manner of
exhibits from archaeological models and reconstructions
to a collection of eerie photographs depicting a wartime
city awash with Swastikas hanging from every available
building. Also find examples of local historical dress, coins,
newspapers and other fascinating little bits and pieces.
With regrettably little English, a guided tour of the place is
highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission 5/2.50Lt. J
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
What to see
At just 17cm, Senamiesčio Peliukas (The Little Mouse
of Old Town) or Stebuklingasis Peliukas (The Miraculous
Little Mouse) is the smallest monument in Klaipėda. The
work of Sergejus Plotnikovas and Svajūnas Jurkus, the little
fella was unveiled in December 2006 but was promptly
stolen. Like his predecessor, the replacement mouse’s
ears are for whispering dreams into (or you can rub his
tummy if you like), which supposedly come true. Find him on
the corner (N-6) opposite Kurpiai (see p.23).
Klaipėda Timepiece Museum (Klaipėdos
Laikrodžių Muziejus) N-5, Liepų 12, tel. (+370) 46
41 04 13. Klaipėda’s bizarre Timepiece Museum offers
no clues as to just exactly what it’s doing here (there are
no connections between the city and makers of either
clocks or watches) although it somehow creates the impression
that Klaipėda wouldn’t really be Klaipėda without
it. Housed on two floors in a rather grand old building, the
museum celebrates the history of keeping time from the
Chinese water clock through to the latest atomic variations
on the theme. A4 sheets in English have been thoughtfully
provided for those who’d like to know more about the
subject. The garden at the back of the building contains
a rather splendid sundial and hosts the occasional music
concert.QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J
Tourist information
Klaipėda Tourist Information Centre N-7, Turgaus
7, tel. (+370) 46 41 21 86, tic@klaipedainfo.
lt, www.klaipedainfo.lt. The local tourist information
people can sell you a map, arrange a guided tour, find you
a bed for the night and sell you a ticket if you’re planning
on leaving town. English and German spoken. Q Open
09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 (Jun 1 - Aug 31).
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun (Oct and April).
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun
(Sept, Nov - March, May). J
June 2012 - May 2013
27

28 What to see What to see 29
Lithuanian Sea Museum (Lietuvos Jūrų Muziejus)
C-3, Smiltynės 3, tel. (+370) 46 49 22 50, www.muziejus.lt.
The only museum of its kind in the entire Baltic
region. The Lithuanian Sea Museum stretches along the
eastern shoreline of the northern tip of the Curonian Spit
and takes in more than just a bunch of fish and performing
aquatic animals inside an old fortress dating from the 19th
century. Surplus to the familiar sight of fish-laden aquaria,
cute little penguins, performing sea lions and (currently not
on show at the time of going to press) dolphins are a few
other sensations including three Soviet-era trawlers and
a recreated traditional fishing village. An absolute must for
visitors with children in tow, the exhibits are all presented in
English as well as Lithuanian and the whole affair is, assuming
you’re not an animal rights campaigner, rather good fun and
extremely educational. To get there, take the ferry across
to Smiltynė and turn right to either walk the rest of the way
(not recommended for people without a strong constitution)
or hop on either the ridiculous petrol-driven train or travel in
style by horse and buggy. Q Open 10:30 - 18:30. Closed
Mon (Jun - Aug); Open 10:30 - 18:30. Closed Mon, Tue (Sept);
Open Sat, Sun 10:30 - 17:00 (Oct - Dec). Admission 12/6Lt
(Sept - May); 15/7Lt (June - Aug).
Nature Protection Museum (Gamtos Apsaugos
Muziejus) N-3, S. Daukanto 31, tel. (+370) 699 447
66. Located at the top of a flight of metal stairs in a rather
incongruous-looking shed overlooking a charming little garden
hidden away down an alleyway to the left of the large Vytauto
Didžiojo Gimnazija building, this very Lithuanian experience
is of interest to specialists and possibly nobody else. Made
up of a small collection of plants, stuffed animals, fossils
and shells from the region as well as some related postage
stamps, visits need to be booked in advance and require the
assistance of an interpreter. Q Open by appointment only.
Admission free. J
Industrial tourism
Švyturys P-7, Kūlių Vartų 7, tel. (+370) 46 41 21
86. Established in 1784 and the oldest brewery on
contemporary Lithuanian territory, the large Švyturys
(Lighthouse) building at the southern end of Old Town
offer tours in English. The two-hour tour takes visitors
around the brewery, showing how the beer is made and
offering several opportunities to drink what’s regarded
by many as some of the best beers in the country. Tours
are offered for groups of five to 50 people and should be
booked at the Tourist Information Centre.
P. Domšaitis Gallery (P. Domšaičio Galerija)
P-4, Liepų 33, tel. (+370) 46 41 04 12. Memel-born
artist Franz Domscheit (1880-1965) left the city at 27,
was famously exhibited in the 1937 Degenerate Art exhibition
organised by the Nazis in Munich and finally fled
to South Africa with his wife where he died at the age of
85. Also known by the Lithuanian rendition of his name,
Pranas Domšaitis, which he chose to use after his brush
with Hitler, this combined gallery and museum contains the
largest single collection of his works in the world. Situated
on two floors, the gallery contains much more than just his
work. On the ground floor are a proactive section devoted
to art produced by children as well as the works of other
like-minded artists of the time and, somewhat strangely,
a large number of period chairs. The upstairs galleries are
generally given over to temporary shows by artists from
both home and abroad. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J
Churches
St. John’s Church (Klaipėdos Šv. Jono Bažnyčia)
O-6, Pylimo 2, tel. (+370) 46 31 44 73. Once a prominent
arrow jutting out over the roofs of Old Town, all that remains of
the original 75-metre tower is a collection of faded memories
and equally faded black and white photographs. Dating back
to 1696, the original Lutheran church that stood here was
damaged during WWII and thoughtfully pulled down by the
Soviets. A new church, which is really little more than a house
with the same name, carries on the work of its namesake.
Q Mass Sun 10:00. J
St. Mary’s Queen of Peace Church (Šv. Marijos
Taikos Karalienės Bažnyčia) H-5, Rumpiškės 6a,
tel. (+370) 46 41 01 20. Using private funds this Sovietera
house of worship was built at the start of Khrushchev’s
Thaw in the late 1950s. Due to open on August 15, 1960 a
change in attitude in Moscow saw the bell tower destroyed
and the building converted into a concert hall. After the
earth-shattering events of October 1988, the building was
returned to the Catholic Church and the first Mass celebrated
on November 25 of the same year. The cornerstone of the
city’s Catholic community, the interior is fairly unremarkable.
The main point of interest is the post-Soviet 70-metre bell
tower, which is open to the public by prior arrangement and
that affords a truly splendid 360º view of the city and beyond.
Photographs following the strange story of the church’s existence
line the walls of the steps to the top. By far the most
interesting fact about this church is that it was one of only
two built in the country (the other is in Švenčionėliai) during
the Soviet period. Q Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00,
10:00, 12:00, 18:00.
Places of interest
German Soldiers’ Cemetery (Vokiečių Karių
Kapinės) Destroyed presumably some time shortly
after WWII and re-sanctified on August 28, 1998, this
strangely pleasant and atmospheric place amidst cedar
trees at the far end of the park that starts just north of
the railway bridge on H. Manto was used for the burial
of soldiers in the German army during both World Wars.
With the exception of a few salvaged and mostly broken
headstones whose names evoke an entire lost community
(technically these soldiers were defenders rather than
invaders), all of the memorials are modern, marking the
spots where graves were known to have originally existed.
Actually two separate areas, a memorial complete with
photographs and fresh flowers can be found in the cemetery’s
northern-most section.
KGB Memorial Room (KGB Memorialinė Kamera)
N-2, S. Nėries 4, tel. (+370) 46 39 00 00. A small plaque
outside the Lithuanian Customs building marks the spot
where the KGB once had their headquarters in Klaipėda. Not
quite up to the standards of its counterpart in the capital,
the KGB Memorial Room features a simple 12-metre square
former prison cell complete with a bed and little else where
prisoners were once kept. To give them time to find somebody
to get the key and open up it’s advised to telephone in
advance. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free. J
Monuments
Ännchen von Tarau (Taravos Anikė) N-7, Teatro
Aikštė. The original girl standing in front of the Drama Theatre
was dedicated to the German poet Simon Dach (1605-1659)
and was erected in 1912 by the Berlin sculptor Alfred Kune.
The poor lass disappeared at some unknown time during World
War II, possibly with the help of the Nazis (who were supposedly
upset that she had her back turned towards a ranting Führer,
shouting at the masses from the theatre balcony in 1939), or
possibly courtesy of the Soviets (who stole just about every
thing that wasn’t nailed down during their unwelcome stay in
the country). In any event, a replacement was constructed
from old photographs in 1990, and the girl, of whom Dach
wrote a famous folk song, is now back where she belongs. J
Atmintis (Memory) N-5, Atgimimo Aikštė. Late in the
evening on March 2, 1989 the Lithuanian painter and antiques
restorer Vytautas Vičiulis (1951-1989) approached this spot,
which at the time was the site of the city’s statue of Lenin,
and set fire to himself, dying from his injuries the following day.
Reportedly carrying a Lithuanian flag with him, the martyred
Vičiulis is remembered with this small plinth.
Homeland Farewell (Atsisveikinimas su Tėvyne)
O-1, Outside the Train Station. Commemorating the repatriated
Germans who fled to Germany at the end of WWII,
this charming little monument of a mother and her teddy
bear-clutching infant was unveiled during the Sea Festival in
2002. A wonderfully observed work of art, take a look at the
detail including the ragged buttons on the mother’s coat.
Martynas Mažvydas M-2, Lietuvininkų Aikštė. Unveiled
in 1997 and the work of R. Midvikis, this rather stern-looking
monument honours the man credited with writing the first
book published in the Lithuanian language, the 1547 Catechisms.
Mathematicians will quickly spot that the statue
was placed here to celebrate the 450th anniversary of the
book. The square in which it stands is now very popular with
the city’s teenage skateboarding community. J
Monument to the Port Liberators (Paminklas
Uostamiesčio Išvaduotojams) O-3, M. Mažvydas
Sculpture Park. It’s somewhat perplexing that postindependent
Lithuania banned both the Communist Party
and Soviet symbols with such gusto and yet left a great
big thing like this lying around for everyone to see. Unveiled
in 1980 to celebrate the liberation of Klaipėda by the Red
Army on January 28, 1945, these splendid military fellows,
one sailor and two soldiers, mark the spot where 700
Soviet soldiers were buried. The monument is part of a
larger ensemble including a now long extinguished eternal
flame and a list of those who died during the capturing of
the city. Find it in the northwest corner of the park, close
to the road. Every year on May 9, the official Victory Day
celebrating Russia’s final defeat over Nazi Germany, locals
come to the memorial and cover the entire area with an
astonishing number of flowers. If you’re in town at this time,
a trip to take a look is highly recommended.
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013

30 What to see
Jewish Klaipėda
Jews were first mentioned
as living in the
city in 1567, although
much the same as with
the remarkably similar
city of Gdańsk, the
Jews never made an
enormous impact on
Klaipėda as they did
in the rest of the region. By the time the Germans reoccupied
the city in March 1939 some 8,000 Jews had
already fled, leaving a small population behind who met
their fate as is only too well known. An estimated 200
or so Jews live in Klaipėda today.
Jewish Cemetery (Žydų Kapinės) P-8, Sinagogų.
In the grounds of the city’s Jewish Community Centre,
a plaque by the entrance reminds visitors that a Jewish
cemetery stood here until 1939. With the exception of
one or two gravestones, nothing remains except for a
few salvaged stones set in the wall to the west of the
old cemetery. J
Jewish Community Centre (Chabad
Lubavitch Baismenachem) P-8, Žiedų 3, tel.
(+370) 46 49 37 58. A small, modern building in the
grounds of the city’s former Jewish Cemetery that also
houses the city’s only surviving synagogue. This is the
place in town to visit if you want to know more about
the city’s Jewish heritage. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Fri
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Neringa P-7, Kūlių Vartų 7. Outside the Švyturys
brewery, the curious statue of the mythical Neringa holding
two ships on her shoulders was created by the Lithuanian
artist Dalia Matulaitė (b. 1942) and represents the
power of a woman. Part of an intended trilogy of works,
the second piece, Eglė Mother of the Trees (Eglė Medžių
Motina) never got off the drawing board, although the final
work, The Twelve Brothers (Dvylika Brolių) did, and can
be found in the Mažvydas Sculpture Park (see Parks &
Gardens).
Parks & Gardens
Klaipėda University Botanical Garden
(Klaipėdos Universiteto Botanikos Sodas)
Kretingos 92, tel. (+370) 46 39 88 33. Covering almost
10 hectares, the park, which since 1993 has been in the
hands of the city’s university, is comprised of a collection
of around 3,000 annual and perennial species organised
into several groups as well as large rock garden. Located
about 3km north along Kretingos and easily walked on
a good day in about 30 minutes. A taxi will set you back
around 10Lt for a one-way trip. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission 4/2Lt.
M. Mažvydas Sculpture Park (M. Mažvydo
Skulptūrų Parkas) O/P-3. On the site of the city’s
second main cemetery that opened in 1820 and that was
destroyed by the Soviets in 1977, this quirky 10-hectare
site contains around 180 works of art by 54 sculptors as
well as several memorials and a former chapel that now
functions as a Russian Orthodox church. The L-shaped
park, somewhat strangely named after a historical author
and not an artist, is a popular place for strolling all year
around. J
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
The principal settlement on the Lithuanian half of the
Unesco-protected Curonian Spit, the small fishing village of
Nida (or Nidden as it was and still is known as to German
speakers) some 50km south of Klaipėda on the edge of
Curonian Lagoon is worthy of at least a day trip if not considerably
more. The celebrated home for two summers of
the author Thomas Mann, Nida’s affluent feel and Germanic
appearance are so unlike the rest of Lithuania that visiting
as part of a bigger trip to the country is like a holiday within
a holiday. With well under 2,000 permanent residents, the
population balloons during the short tourist season, but,
unlike its irksome brother Palanga attracts a quieter crowd
looking for a more leisurely pace of life. The perfect springboard
for countless adventures further afield on the spit,
Nida offers a superb experience and is an essential part of
any trip along the Baltic coastline.
Arriving
There’s only one road to Nida. Travel its winding 50km path
from Smiltynė by car or bus or peddle your bicycle along the
cycle track all the way to the resort. Nida is also reachable
from Kaliningrad plus there are a couple of direct daily
buses during the summer from Klaipėda. Inside a protected
national park, a small fee is required to enter, which is
included in the price of the ticket if you’re arriving by bus but
that needs to be paid if entering by any other means. For a
journey with a difference, take the water taxi to Nida. See
www.vandenstaxi.lt for more information.
By bus
To get to Nida by bus from Klaipėda, take one of the direct
summer services or the Smiltynė ferry from the First Ferry
Terminal (Old Crossing/Senoji Smiltynės Perkėla). Buses
leave Smiltynė from where the ferry docks, regularly during the
summer and a little less frequent out of season. The price at
the time of writing for the 60-minute journey was 9Lt. The ferry
only takes foot passengers and cyclists. The crossing currently
costs 1.45Lt for the trip across. Getting to town You’re
in it. Just about everything is within walking distance. If you
need a taxi and there isn’t one outside the station, go across
the road to the Tourist Information Centre and ask them to call
one. If you need cash, find a couple of ATMs directly across
the street from the bus station.
Bus Station B-2, Naglių 18e, tel. (+370) 469 528 59.
A small building close to the water’s edge in the centre of the
village, find toilets (1.50Lt), a drinks machine and ticket office
all inside one room. QOpen 07:45 - 20:00.
By car
Take the New Crossing (Senoji Smiltynės Perkėla) ferry and
follow the signs once you’re on the other side of the water.
The journey is just under 50km along a narrow winding road
Tourist information
Nida Culture & Tourism Information Centre
(Nidos Kultūros ir Turizmo Informacijos Centras)
B-2, Taikos 4, tel. (+370) 469 523 45, fax (+370) 469
520 15, info@visitneringa.lt, www.visitneringa.com.
Opposite the bus station in the centre of the village, find
plenty of information in English, plus advice on places to stay
as well as more information on things to see and do on the
Curonian Spit. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00 (Jun 1 - Aug 31). Open
09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun (Sept 1 - May 31).
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Water taxi
nida
Vandens Taxi Tel. (+370) 610 713 98, www.vandenstaxi.lt.
Operating through the summer and departing
from close to the Memelis restaurant in Klaipėda’s Old
Town, a luxury motor yacht capable of holding up to 10
passengers offers an alternative way of getting to Nida.
Taking about 60 minutes, the journey is perfect for those
who’ve come to enjoy the pleasures of the local water. The
yacht can also be hired during the evenings for groups of
up to eight people for pleasure, business and romantic
cruises complete with food and drink if required. See the
website for more information. Q Until Oct 1.
through the forested dunes. Inside a national park, you’ll need
to pay to get in at the checkpoint a few kilometres south of
the ferry port. If you’re travelling in a group, taking a taxi is an
option. They often park up on the Smiltynė side of the water
and cost somewhere in the region of 100Lt plus the entrance
fee to the park depending on your negotiation skills.
Where to stay
Nida boasts a range of accommodation options from fairly
decent hotels to a cabin with a bed near the beach. Added
to this, everybody with a centimetre to spare rents out
rooms, most of which aren’t advertised but can be easily
found when you arrive. Look for the nuoma (for rent) signs
posted around the village or ask the people at the Nida
Culture & Tourism Information Centre for a recommendation.
Prices are a little bit higher than in most destinations
in Lithuania, especially during the summer season.
Upmarket
Litorina A-1, Smiltynės 19, tel. (+370) 469 525 28, fax
(+370) 469 511 02, litorina@litorina-dubingiai.lt, www.
litorina-dubingiai.lt. Not the cheapest option around, and not
exactly in the centre of the action, however if you do decide to
part with the money they want you’ll find that it goes a fairly long
way. The rooms are bright and cheerful and finally come with
the long awaited addition of internet connections, each having
its own balcony, television and bathroom. Extras are aplenty,
among them sauna, outdoor hard court tennis and bicycle rental.
Q19 rooms (6 doubles 250Lt, 3 triples 280Lt, 6 quads 450Lt, 4
suites 450Lt). PHALKDW hhhh
Nidus B-1, G. D. Kuverto 15, tel. (+370) 469 520 01, fax
(+370) 469 500 16, info@nidus.lt, www.nidus.lt. A good option
for those who won’t be carrying plastic chairs, drinks bottles,
inflatable hippopotamuses, melting ice-creams and screaming
children to the beach and back every 30 minutes, there’s a nifty
blue and tan naval theme throughout the swish, well appointed
rooms, of which each comes with a small balcony. Q26 rooms
(26 singles 180 - 400Lt, 26 doubles 230 - 540Lt, 2 suites 250 -
540Lt). THAR6ULKDXW hhh
Mid-range
Jūratė B-2, Pamario 3, tel. (+370) 469 523 00, info@
hotel-jurate.lt, www.hotel-jurate.lt. A central location
would be the main reason for staying here, because if nothing
else this large and rather unattractive building simply doesn’t
fit in with the surroundings. Although it looks better on the
inside than it does on the outside, the rooms are nothing to
write home about. Excellent if you’re arriving with a bus full
of friends. Q 116 rooms (8 singles 115 - 205Lt, 95 doubles
100 - 255Lt, 13 suites 160 - 315Lt). HAULKW hh
June 2012 - May 2013
31

32 nida nida 33
Nerija B-2, Pamario 13, tel. (+370) 682 389 48, fax
(+370) 469 511 28, info@neringahotels.lt, www.neringahotels.lt.
A range of singles, doubles and apartments
complete with such little luxuries as heated bathrooms and a
jaunty sloping roof that prices rocket through during the high
season, the atmosphere here is helped enormously by nearby
basketball and volleyball courts. If you want to be looked after
and are prepared to spend that little bit extra when the sun is
shining, this place is a reasonably safe option. Q 57 rooms
(130 - 380Lt). PTHUKW hhh
Nidos Smiltė A-2, Skruzdynės 2, tel. (+370) 469
522 21, www.smilte.lt. Made up of three different villas
on one complex, the Vaiva, Svajonė and Kregždutė, Nidos
Smiltė offers a range of accommodation options from basic
rooms to apartments. Expensive during the summer season
although offering a good standard of service, the hotel is
at pains to remind visitors that it once provided shelter to
a number of visiting Expressionist painters who paid for
their board in return for the occasional canvas. Q (singles
160 - 240Lt, doubles 200 - 320Lt, apartments 300 - 460Lt).
PAKW
A spit in the ocean
Nathan Greenhalgh
Nida sits half-way down the Curonian Spit, a 98 kilometrelong,
Unesco-protected slither of banana-shaped sand
stretching from Kaliningrad’s Sambian Peninsula in the
south all the way to, but not quite touching, Klaipėda.
Separating the Curonian Lagoon from the Baltic Sea, the
spit covers an area of 180 square kilometres and is home
to some of the highest drifting sand dunes in Europe,
which at times can reach up to 60m in height. The Lithuanian
part of the spit covers about half its total length
and includes the settlements of Alksnynė, Smiltynė,
Juodkrantė (see p.5), Nida, Pervalka and Preila, of which
the latter four make up the municipality of Neringa, the
smallest municipality in Lithuania and the only one named
after a figure from ancient mythology and not an actual
town. If you’re travelling to Nida from Klaipėda or are
thinking about seeing more than just Nida when visiting,
there are a number of recommended things to see and
do whilst in the area. Heading south soon after disembarking
from the ferry, keep an eye out to the left of the
road for a monument to fallen Red Army soldiers of 32nd
division, 113th regiment who lost their lives here during
the early days of the East Prussian Offensive in January
1945. A classic Soviet-era sculpture, the 30-tonne stone
monument, carved from rock taken from the Curonian
Lagoon, was unveiled in 1967. The tiny village of Preila
on the eastern shore of the Curonian Spit is unremarkable
with perhaps the exception of a small ethnographic
Guesthouses
Miško Namas B-2, Pamario 11, tel. (+370) 469 522 90,
info@miskonamas.com, www.miskonamas.com. A gorgeous
cottage reminiscent of a provincial 1970s German hotel on the
inside, find a superb choice of rooms and apartments to suit all
tastes and budgets. More or less in the centre and close to the
lagoon, all guests get the benefit of wireless internet, satellite
television and even bicycle rental. There’s also a self-contained
apartment for the ultimate self-catering experience. Q7 rooms
(doubles 97 - 249Lt, holiday flats 145 - 330Lt). LW
Palvė B-2, Taikos 15, tel. (+370) 469 527 02, palve@
lucanica.lt, www.palve.lt. From the outside it looks like a
place where you can buy tyres, and even the foyer looks a
bit like a Soviet hospital, but once you get past all that it’s
actually not a bad place at all. Everything is basic, bright and
clean plus you get a kitchenette which makes the place feel
more homely. The swimming pool is a bit bizarre, with real
rocks on the bottom, but it just adds to the appeal of this unashamedly
strange place. Q 28 rooms (singles 120 - 170Lt,
doubles 150 - 210Lt). TA6
cemetery where the village’s last true Curonians lay at
rest. In the centre of the village, although nowhere near as
impressive as its counterpart in Anaičiai, the well-tended
graves, some of them wooden and dating back well over
a century, offer an insight into the former multi-ethnic
makeup of the area. Both Nida and Juodkrantė lie inside
the Curonian Spit National Park, set up in 1991 to protect
the flora and fauna of the region. About a quarter of the
park is forested, there are some 960 plant species, just
under 40 mammals including elk, wild boar, otters and
badgers, 200 kinds of bird, eight amphibians, over 460
types of butterfly and countless bugs and beetles. Among
the 40 or so types of fish living on either side of the spit
are bream, eel, cod, Baltic herring and plaice. Meat-eaters
should try some of the smoked fish specialities found for
sale almost everywhere, whilst those who prefer to see
wildlife in its natural habitat should take advantage of
the manifold opportunities to view it in the area. As well
as being home to several protected species, the spit
itself is under threat. Accordingly, much of its territory
is off limits to visitors, with camping only allowed at the
designated site in Nida. Of the spit’s human population,
people have been living in the area for thousands of
years. Notable inhabitants include the Sambians and
Curonians, two long-since vanished Baltic tribes whose
names remain as traces in the landscape on both the
Russian and Lithuanian side of the border. Its German
heritage comes from the Teutonic Knights who invaded
the area in the 13th century. The spit’s peculiar ethnic
history is as complicated as it is on the mainland, and
don’t let the textbooks fool you into thinking otherwise.
Despite the official fact that the Germans were sent
packing at the end of WWII, many of the spit’s inhabitants
speak German fluently and consider themselves
natives of the region who just so happen to live within the
borders of Lithuania and who continue to live lives connected
to the landscape as they have done for hundreds
of years. With a bracing coastline and an inland body
of water that’s known to freeze over during the winter,
the Curonian Spit is a unique feature of Lithuania that
deserves much more than a quick daytrip from Klaipėda.
For more information on the spit, see the excellent website
at www.nerija.lt.
Vasara A-1, G. D. Kuverto 8-4, tel. (+370) 699 339 10/
(+370) 5 273 09 91, ra@ra.lt, www.vasara.org. They’ve
named all the rooms after local attractions like The Sea and
The Dunes, and you can even stay in The Forest without having
to dig a hole after dinner. While it’s not exactly the Ritz,
the fresh and fun little decorative touches and attention to
detail make this a pleasant place to spend your holiday. It’s
located midway between the lagoon and sea beaches, and
it’s a bit of a walk to either. Added bonuses include wireless
internet connections and DVD players. Q 6 apartments
(110 - 315Lt). W
Vila Elvyra A-2, Purvynės 2, tel. (+370) 620 640 60,
www.vilaelvyra.priejuros.lt. Ten rooms with either double
or twin beds inside a large traditional building that’s been
modernised with more than just a touch of artistry, all featuring
satellite television, refrigerators and en suite bathrooms.
The facilities are more basic than many similar places for a
better price but there are a few bonuses including good views
of the lagoon and lots of space. Breakfast isn’t included in
the price but can be ordered separately. Q 9 rooms (150 -
350Lt/night). LBW
Vila Simona Pamario 21b, tel. (+370) 688 358
39, www.vilasimona.ot.lt. A modern building in the
centre of the village resembling a traditional fisherman’s
cottage, the interior of Villa Simona actually resembles
something straight from the 1970s. Facilities are ample,
with extra sofas and refrigerators provided in every room
for budget travellers. Q 6 rooms (doubles 150 - 240Lt).
PLW
Camping
Nidos Kempingas (Nida Camping) Taikos 45a,
tel. (+370) 682 411 50, info@kempingas.lt, www.
kempingas.lt. There’s actually a full range of accommodation
offered here, ranging from a patch of dirt on which
you can stick a tent to some gorgeous apartments with
kitchenettes, satellite television and modern bathrooms.
Communal facilities for campers include toilets, showers,
a kitchen and laundry. There’s also a children’s playground
and good security to ensure that nothing gets stolen when
you’re slumming it by the water. Q There is a complicated
pricing scheme with different prices for tents, cars, camper
vans, caravans and the people in them. The minimum is
39Lt per night for a person in a tent who turns up on a
bicycle out of season.
Apartments
Inkaro Kaimas B-2, Naglių 26-1, tel. (+370) 698 850
03, valentina@inkarokaimas.lt, www.inkarokaimas.lt.
A choice of really nice rooms and apartments with separate
entrances in a classic old fisherman’s cottage right on the
water’s edge. Facilities run the range from en suite facilities
to satellite television to a few options with their own kitchens.
Good value and a superb location. Q 3 rooms (1 double
130 - 200Lt, 1 quad 180 - 280, 1 apartment 160 - 280Lt).
J6LW
Nidos Rojus B-2, Naglių 25, tel. (+370) 698 343 58,
nidosrojus@gmail.com, www.nidosrojus.lt. Three fantastic
apartments inside a classic wooden fisherman’s cottage
right in the centre of the town ranging from 25 to 80 square
metres in size. All come with kitchens, en suite bathrooms,
laundry facilities and free parking. Even at the height of the
tourist season prices are more than affordable. One of the
best deals in town at the moment. Q 3 apartments (100 -
500Lt/night). JLB
© Mantas Mačiulskis
Where to eat
Nida is represented by a small selection of bars and restaurants
aimed predominantly but not exclusively at the
summer tourist market. When visiting the village it’s considered
the done thing to sample some of the fish, which
is more often than not smoked as is the local fashion, and
all of it taken from the local waters. The nightlife isn’t up to
the standards as witnessed in Palanga, but that’s not why
most people visit. Bars and clubs spring up willy-nilly during
the high season, and asking the locals what’s on offer
is the best way to find out what’s going on after dark.
Lithuanian
Ešerinė C-2, Naglių 2, tel. (+370) 687 558 30. The old,
medieval-looking fish shack’s getting a bit rundown and tired,
but because it’s a tourist trap kind of place, and people only
go inside when they need to pee, they get away with it. The
food is quite good if not great value, but you’re paying for the
best spot in town if not Lithuania. Truly, the outside section
right on the water’s edge is extremely hard to beat. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PABS
Kuršis B-2, Naglių 29, tel. (+370) 469 528 04. Operating
throughout the year yet still managing to retain a certain
tourist atmosphere, the staff-diner ratio could be better but if
you’re prepared to wait a bit you won’t be disappointed. The
menu runs the length and breadth of cuisine from classic
Lithuanian dishes to local smoked fish to a handful of ambitious
international dishes. Exceptionally good value, highly
recommended are the šaltibarščiai, which is served with
crispy roasted potatoes and the bulviniai blynai, potato
pancakes of mammoth proportions served with a garlic-laden
sauce that are dangerously moreish considering the amount
you get. The restaurant also does towers of beer, for fun
evenings getting wasted without having to interfere with the
waitresses. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. PTAUBS
Pašiūrė B-2, Naglių 20, tel. (+370) 698 415 38. Found
next to the bus station, this cunningly placed folk-themed
adventure doesn’t have to work too hard to pull the punters
in. The menu is hit and miss with the local fish dishes being
the exception. Good for a snack whilst waiting to depart, the
garden is a great place to watch the world go by. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. JABS
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013

34 nida nida 35
Sena Sodyba B-2, Naglių 6-2, tel. (+370) 652 123 45.
This is so much like dropping over to a friend’s place for a
barbeque that you’ll feel like you ought to take flowers or cakes
for the hosts. The food has a fresh, simple home-cooked
quality, is reasonably priced, and despite the feel-at-home
atmosphere, you don’t have to do your own dishes. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. PAB
Fish
Senasis Uostas B-2, Naglių 29, tel. (+370) 699 389
80. This pleasant little place is ideal for anyone who prefers
a view of a car park over one of the lagoon, or anyone who
simply wants decent fish at reasonable prices. There’s also
a few other meat-based dishes, plenty of salads and a few
local dishes on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. ABS
International
Kitchen B-2, Pamario 1/31, tel. (+370) 643 855 92.
It’s becoming increasingly popular for quality restaurants in
the capital to open summer venues in both Nida and Palanga,
the latest of which is this treat close to the edge of the lagoon
in the centre of town. Specialising in international nouvelle
cuisine with plenty of twists, no longer do visitors have to
suffer an endless cavalcade of pork chops but can also experience
the finer points of Lithuanian dining. It may not be in
keeping with local tradition, but it’s a very welcome addition
all the same. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. 24Lt. TJ6BSW
Laumė B-2, Pamario 24, tel. (+370) 469 523 35, www.
nidospastoge.com. One of two lagoon-side restaurants next
to each other and owned by the same people, Laumė is the
closer of the pair to the edge of the water and therefore gets
our vote. The interior could hardly be called an inspiration, but
the terrace on a sunny day when there’s lots of people out and
about is a must. Service is competent if a little stern and the
meat-heavy menu is reminiscent of the stuff they churn up in
an Austrian restaurant by the side of the motorway, which if
you’ve never had the pleasure is filling, affordable and perfectly
edible. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 26Lt. TJAVBSW
Nidos Seklyčia C-2, Lotmiškio 1, tel. (+370) 469 500 00,
www.neringaonline.lt. Reassuringly pricey dining in a choice of
two posh rooms at the far southern end of town, this is probably
the most romantic place to feast in the village assuming it’s not
overflowing with a busload of Germans. The menu offers plenty
of good-looking options that aren’t always as good as they appear,
but for class the place is certainly a winner. Note that the
building is also home to an equally swanky guesthouse. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PAULEBSW
Pizza
Čili Pica B-2, Naglių 16, tel. (+370) 682 503 00, www.
cili.lt. Lithuania’s favourite pizza chain’s Nida operation can
be found at the end of the harbour next to where the pleasure
boats ply their trade. The outside terrace stops it from
becoming a totally bland tourist trap, and the food, including
a wide range of pizza, pasta and meat dishes, is perfectly
edible. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 15Lt. TAUBSW
Wine
In Vino Taikos 32, tel. (+370) 655 779 97. Playing second
fiddle to its more illustrious sibling in the capital, Nida’s very
own In Vino sits high up on the dunes and affords a splendid
if not breathtakingly beautiful view to take in whilst sampling
some of the wines on offer. The exception rather than the
rule in Nida, the interior provides scruffy sophistication with
offers chalked up on the blackboard and a mixture of locals
and visitors sat around in a state of mild inebriation. Recommended.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. ABSW
Prieplaukos Vyninė B-2, Naglių 16, tel. (+370) 679
239 88. Wine bars in Lithuania tend to operate on the assumption
that wine is associated with class rather than is
something to be savoured and this new outfit is no different
to the majority. Although the wine on offer is impressive, the
main draw here is the location, sat on top of the large building
in the harbour and affording wonderful views of the lagoon
and the dunes. An excellent choice for a drink or two on a
balmy Baltic evening. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 05:00. 20Lt. JEBSW
Sport, Leisure & Culture
Bicycles etc.
If you haven’t brought your own set of human-powered
wheels onto the Curonian Spit, fear not, just about
every hotel and street corner during the summer
season comes with the option to rent something from
rollerblades to bicycles for anything from an hour to as
long as you plan to stay. Prices are fairly low, and, if you
want to get the most of the area without resorting to
an internal combustion engine, well worth the bother. A
passport or other form of ID that includes a photograph
is essential when renting any of the above.
Boat trips
There are numerous possibilities to mess about on the
lagoon whilst in Nida during the summer. Ask around town,
or look for signs advertising everything from water bicycles
to fishing trips. Two larger vessels moored at the main
harbour are also worth further investigation. Nidas (tel.
(+370) 698 313 78) is a medium sized motor cruiser taking
regular trips across the lagoon to the small settlement of
Mingė on the other side and is also available for private
functions. The impressive-looking Lana (tel. (+370) 620
302 13) is a beautiful, two-masted sailing ship ploughing
regular trips around the lagoon and further afield.
Culture
Nida Art Colony C-1, Taikos 43, tel. (+370) 469
203 70/(+370) 620 343 44, www.nidacolony.lt.
Part of the Vilnius Art Academy, this relatively new centre
operates both as a place for students to retreat to and
work in quiet isolation as well as a location for artists in
residence from home and abroad. Also organising the
occasional exhibition, the centre continues a long tradition
of art colonies in the village and simply deserves a
mention. HAUEBW
© Dovydas Stonkus
Chinese
Ju Binlou C-1, Taikos 13, tel. (+370) 686 105 36. It
wasn’t that long ago that getting something to eat in Nida
that wasn’t smoked fish, or pork, or pizza, was impossible.
Now though it seems that every new place that opens is
offering something slightly more exotic than before, as is the
case with Ju Binlou, a fine Chinese restaurant two minutes
from the centre and featuring not only decent Chinese food
but (gasp) friendly staff to boot. To top it all they even put
on the occasional karaoke evening. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
22Lt. TABSW
Sushi
Sushi House B-2, Naglių 16, www.sushihouse.lt. It was
only a matter of time before Nida hopped onto the latest local
bandwagon and opened a sushi restaurant, Sushi House
being the result. Top marks for location, the food itself is
passable if not exactly outstanding. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00.
17Lt. JBS
What to see
The spectacular natural sights to be found in and
around Nida are reason enough to make the journey
to the Curonian Spit, although this is by no means the
end of the cultural road. The town also contains several
sights of interest that should be visited, including two
interesting churches and a handful of charming little
museums.
Museums & Galleries
Amber Gallery (Gintaro Galerija) B-2, Pamario 20,
tel. (+370) 469 525 73, www.ambergallery.lt. A wonderful
combined museum, shop and gallery featuring amber
in all its forms and colours, including some lovely pieces of
jewellery for sale and the usual quota of pieces of the stuff
full of petrified insects. The staff know their stuff here, and
despite the prices being higher than you’ll find in most other
places, you’re guaranteed to get a good, honest deal. Q
Open 10:00 - 19:00 (May, Sep, Oct), 09:00 - 20:00 (Jun - Aug).
Closed (Nov - April). Admission 4/2Lt.
Ethnographic Fisherman’s Museum (Žvejo
Etnografinė Sodyba) C-2, Naglių 4, tel. (+370) 469
523 72. A beautiful old wooden fisherman’s cottage restored
to its traditional appearance both inside and out as it was
in the 19th century, this small yet evocative museum is
crammed full of relics and the tools of the fishing trade from
the late 19th and early 20th century. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 2/1Lt.
Herman Blode Museum A-2, Skruzdynės 2, tel. (+370)
469 522 21. This intriguing museum celebrates the time
between 1885 and the outbreak of WWII when the hotel in
which it’s located was a magnet for German-speaking artists
of all persuasions including the obscure but recommended
painters Ernst Bischoff-Culm and Hans Beppo Borschke.
Partially demolished and rebuilt during the Soviet period (a
period that also saw most of the original artworks kept by
the hotel destroyed), the museum part of the hotel features
all manner of material related to this Golden Age although it
sadly lacks much of the outstanding original artwork. Opposite
the Neringa History Museum, it’s definitely worth a look inside.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Neringa History Museum (Neringos Istorijos
Muziejus) A-2, Pamario 53, tel. (+370) 469 511 62.
The quintessential village museum, this small space close
to the centre of town may lack the bells and whistles of
modernity but is still worth the price of a Mars Bar to have
a look inside. Items on display in the three rooms include
extraordinary amber figures dating from the Stone Age and
dug up during archaeological excavations just south of Nida, a
glorious collection of articles relating to local fishing including
a model of a man holding a large plank of wood, still used
during the winter when it’s pushed through a hole in the ice
and hit to attract the fish and a grisly display celebrating the
no-longer practised local custom of crow-catching. During
times of hardship, crows were caught in nets before being
killed by biting them on the neck and eaten. Rather amusingly,
the display of photographs in the right-hand hall includes a
local scene dating from the 18th century. We assume that
not all of the information on display is this erroneous. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Admission 2/1Lt.
Thomas Mann Memorial Museum (Thomo
Manno Memorialinis Muziejus) A-2, Skruzdynės
17, tel. (+370) 469 522 60, www.mann.lt. The Nobel
Prize-winning German author of Death in Venice, Doctor
Faustus and scores of other novels, short stories and
essays, Thomas Mann (1875-1955) spent the summers
of 1930 and 1931 in Nida, and this is the building he
had constructed in which to do it in. The cottage, which
overlooks the lagoon, is now a museum, and many of the
rooms have been given over to exhibits charting the man’s
fascinating life both here and abroad. Unfortunately everything
is in Lithuanian and German only, so unless you speak
one of the above languages you’re going to need the help
of a translator to get the best of the place. A tour of the
museum with an expert offers a fascinating way to spend
an hour or so whilst in Nida. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00 (Jun
1 - Sep 15). 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun (Sep 16 - May
31). Admission 4/2Lt.
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013

36 nida
Catholic Church © Mantas Mačiulskis
Churches
Catholic Church (Nidos Marijos Krikščionių Pagalbos
Bažnyčia) B-1, Taikos 17, tel. (+370) 686 099 67. Dominating
Nida’s skyline, this modern construction that gives more than
a passing nod to local building traditions was consecrated on June
14, 2003. The work of local architects Ričardas Krištapavičius and
Algimantas Zaviša, and the first Catholic church on the Curonian
Spit, the building is predominantly wooden and has a rare if not
unique in Lithuania thatched reed roof. The church’s vast bell
came from a foundry in Poland and is engraved with a mixed
blessing of locally inspired prose and Psalm 90:17 in its entirety.
Q Mass 18:00 (except Mon), Sun 10:00.
Evangelical-Lutheran Church (Nidos Evangelikų
Liuteronų Bažnyčia) B-2, Pamario 43, tel. (+370) 616
838 33. Dating from 1888, this classic red brick Gothic beauty
functioned as a museum during Soviet times and was handed
back to the Church exactly a century after its construction. Inside
are a relatively new organ, some fine stained glass and a lot of
iconography relating to the local fishing industry. Of most interest
however are the graves in the attached ethnographic cemetery.
Known in the local parlance plural as krikštai (christenings), these
peculiar graves feature markers at the foot of the graves rather
than the usual headstone arrangement. Using masculine-named
wood for deceased males and vice-versa and carved with horses’
heads, plants and birds, the footstones, for want of a better word,
are placed thus to help the deceased rise up on Judgement Day.
Q Mass Sun 10:30 (German), 12:00 (Lithuanian).
Places of interest
Dunes (Kopos) These incredible natural lumps of sand
are as fragile as they come, and as such it’s strictly forbidden
to walk on them. To get the best views of them take a
walk through the forest at the end of Naglių, then take a left
at any of the paths after you’ve reached the top of the hill.
Alternatively, walk along the beach at the end of Naglių and
climb the 159 steps for the best view of the lot.
Sundial (Saulės Laikrodis) C-1. The once 13 metre
sundial, now in a state of ruin after the 1995 hurricane, still
contains enough detail to make out some ancient Baltic patterns,
although, sat as it is at the top of the 52 metre Parnidis
dune, the real reason to come here is for the breathtaking
panoramic views of both the lagoon and the Baltic Sea.
Monuments
Vytautas Kernagis B-2, Bardų Skverelis. The Lithuanian
singer, songwriter, actor, director and television personality
Vytautas Kernagis (1951-2008) is remembered in Nida with
this rather charming statue of him sat on a bench strumming
his guitar. The work of the Lithuanian sculptor Romas Kvintas
(b. 1953), the statue is peculiar in that it’s not fixed and can
be moved to any other bench if so desired.
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Lithuania’s favourite bucket-and-spade, kiss-me-quick
destination, the country’s candyfloss capital of Palanga
has over the years been of major strategic importance,
no importance whatsoever, part of Latvia, and up until the
middle of the 19th century and subsequent invention of
the seaside holiday a small fishing village. First mentioned
in 1161, contemporary Palanga functions as a year-round
health resort but is celebrated more for what happens
during the short summer season between June and September
when the population explodes and the party never
ends. Famed for its glorious sandy beaches, Palanga also
offers one or two intriguing cultural diversions for those
looking for something a little more highbrow than gulping
down pints of lager and cavorting after teenage girls in
miniskirts.
Arriving
Not surprisingly for such a thriving holiday destination,
summer brings with it a major increase in traffic to
Palanga. Buses leave for the town from just about everywhere
in the country with a population of more than six
inhabitants and cars converge from as far away as Vilnius,
clogging the streets and making something of a mockery
of the idea that Palanga is a place to go to get away from it
all. A handy trick for those who enjoy the romance of train
travel and who are coming from the east is to catch one of
the daily trains to Klaipėda from Vilnius, get off at Kretinga
and catch the regular minibuses that run between the
town and the coast.
By bus
During the summer, buses arrive in Palanga from just
about every farmstead in the country. A popular daytime
diversion from Klaipėda, buses leave every 20 minutes or
so from around 07:00 to 22:00 from the city’s bus station.
The 30-minute ride costs somewhere in the region of
5-8Lt. Palanga’s small bus station includes left luggage
(bagažinė) for those planning on only spending the day in
town. An ATM can be found near the platforms. Getting
to town You’re in it. If your hotel is further than walking
distance, taxis can be found in and around the station.
Make sure the meter’s running before you set off.
Bus Station (Autobusų Stotis) C-2, Kretingos 1, tel.
(+370) 460 533 33. Q Ticket office open 07:00 - 20:00.
By car
Palanga is easily reached by car from Klaipėda, Latvia and
all points east. During the summer season the main A13
(E272) highway from Klaipėda is littered with cars parked
along the side of the road, all displaying signs of varying
levels of complexity, and all containing variations of the
word kambariai (rooms). If you’ve come unprepared you
may like to stop and have a chat. Unless you’re visiting
out of season, parking in Palanga is a nightmare. To avoid
frustration and the possibility of having your vehicle broken
into, it’s wise to choose accommodation with guarded
parking facilities.
By plane
Palanga’s microscopic airport is immediately north of the
town on the main coast road to Latvia. Flights are few and
far between just Copenhagen, Moscow, Oslo and Riga
served and even then not throughout the year. Taxis can
be found waiting outside the main entrance. A skilful negotiator
can get to town for little more than 10Lt, although
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
palanga
you’ll almost certainly find yourself paying at least three
times this amount for the short journey.
Palanga Airport Liepojos 1, tel. (+370) 460 520 20,
ops@palanga-airport.lt, www.palanga-airport.lt. A few
kilometres north of the town and handling flights all year
round to and from Copenhagen, Oslo and Riga, with the
addition of flights to and from Moscow during the summer.
Find a currency exchange office, ATM, café, duty free shop,
ticket office and car rental kiosks inside. Buses leave from
the bus station and the journey takes about 20 minutes. A
taxi shouldn’t cost more than 50Lt.
Where to stay
Palanga’s accommodation options cater to all tastes and
budgets, from swanky hotels with bellboys to a patch of
grass to pitch your tent. Ensuring you’ve got a place to
sleep before you arrive between July and September is
recommended.
Upmarket
Gabija E-2, Vytauto 40, tel. (+370) 460 482 51, fax
(+370) 460 575 91, info@gabija.lt, www.gabija.lt. A
good-looking hotel on the edge of the Birutė Park and less
than a five-minute walk from the sea, rooms include a choice
of options from splendid standards to some refreshingly
expensive suites and apartments. All rooms come with everything
one would expect including good bathrooms, satellite
television and free internet. Extras include modern conference
facilities and a well equipped wellness centre. Q 56 rooms
(27 singles/doubles 240 - 440Lt, 6 suites 440 - 700Lt, 7
apartments 500 - 1,200Lt). PTHAUFLKDCW
hhhh
June 2012 - May 2013
37

38 palanga
Sculpture Park, see p.44.
Palanga C-1, Birutės 60, tel. (+370) 460 414 14, fax
(+370) 460 414 15, info@palangahotel.lt, www.palangahotel.lt.
The resort’s namesake accommodation option
is located inside an award-winning building based on a ship.
Options include standard rooms, suites and apartments,
all of them good looking and some boasting balconies with
gorgeous views. Surplus to the private facilities are a host
add-ons, among them conference facilities, pool and a spa
complex. Q 74 rooms (doubles 350 - 700Lt, suites 480
- 900Lt, apartments 900 - 1,400Lt). PTHAR6U
FLKDCW hhhhh
Pušų Paunksnėje D-2, Dariaus ir Girėno 25, tel. (+370)
460 490 80, fax (+370) 460 490 81, pusupaunksneje@
takas.lt, www.pusupaunksneje.lt. What does a famous
Lithuanian basketball player do with his spare money? Well,
Arvydas Sabonis has invested wisely. Fourteen stunning
self-contained apartments including large living areas, small
kitchens, lovey-dovey fireplaces and upstairs bedrooms.
Communal facilities include underground parking, combined
basketball/tennis court, swimming pool, bar and restaurant
among other treats. Q 14 apartments (5 doubles 400
- 740Lt, 8 quads 500 - 850Lt, 1 for 10 persons 1,200 -
1,500Lt). PTHA6FLKDCW hhhh
Mid-range
Alanga C-2, S. Nėries 14, tel. (+370) 460 492 15, fax
(+370) 460 493 16, info@alanga.lt, www.alanga.lt. A
central location and a nice collection of modern rooms and
apartments, all with en suite facilities and little luxuries to
ensure a pleasant stay, extras here include sauna, conference
facilities and a swimming pool if you can’t find the beach.
Looking like it fell off the back of a lorry on the way to a Swiss
ski resort, prices rocket in the summer, although the facilities
for children do make it a recommended option for people visiting
with children. Q47 rooms (singles 120 - 230Lt, doubles
140 - 250Lt, suites 180 - 300Lt, apartments 250 - 350Lt).
THARFLKDCW hhh
Info Hotel D-3, Kretingos 52, tel. (+370) 460 400 11,
fax (+370) 460 400 12, info@feliksas.lt, www.feliksas.
lt. Eleven cool brown and orange rooms decorated with a
minimalist flair, facilities include satellite television, free wireless
internet, spacious bathrooms with heated floors and a
small refrigerator in every room. Bright and modern, among
the many extras are guarded parking and the opportunity to
rent bicycles. Q 11 rooms (100 - 240Lt). TAR6UW
hhh
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre C-2, Vytauto
94, tel. (+370) 460 488 11, www.palangatic.
lt. Bigger and better than ever, the newly re-housed
Tourist Information Centre is staffed by friendly and
knowledgeable locals who can advise on everything
from excursions to rooms. There’s also a massive
selection of flyers and brochures on things to see and
do in town and the surrounding area. English, German
and Russian spoken. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00 (Jun). Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00 (Jul - Aug). Open 09:00-17:00, Sat
10:00-14:00, Closed Sun. (Sep - May).
Šachmatinė C-1, Basanavičiaus 45, tel./fax (+370)
460 516 55, sachmatine@cili.eu, www.sachmatine.lt.
At first glance this sprightly little number at the far sea end
of the main pedestrian street is a blessing. Pleasant staff
greet guests who get a choice of well appointed rooms with
all the trimmings for what appears to be a bargain price. The
bad news though is that the building it’s located in is also an
exceedingly busy pizza restaurant and, worse, a nightclub.
Although word on the street is that the aforementioned
nightspot plans to be a little more restrained from previous
years, they do also stress that it’s still possible to dance, and
dancing generally means loud music. Q11 rooms (7 doubles
140 - 280Lt, 2 triples 230 - 280Lt, 2 apartments 400 - 440Lt).
A6LKXW hhh
Žalias Namas A-3, Vytauto 97, tel. (+370) 687
866 52, fax (+370) 460 512 31, info@zaliasnamas.
lt, www.zaliasnamas.lt. A fine Scandinavian-looking
house not far from the centre, among the facilities are
satellite television, minibars and wireless internet in
every room, swimming pool, sauna and a nice café with
an equally cute terrace. Good for families thanks to the
small in-house playground, try to get one of the rooms
with a balcony if you can. Q12 rooms (4 doubles 115 -
300Lt, 6 suites 185 - 450Lt, 3 apartments 310 - 580Lt).
TALKDCW hhh
Žydroji Liepsna (Blue Flame) B-3, Gintaro 36, tel.
(+370) 460 524 41, fax (+370) 460 482 50, info@
zydrojiliepsna.lt, www.zydrojiliepsna.lt. Excellent for
a family holiday, as the rooms come complete with extra
pullout beds. Not only that, they’re quite charming too. Big
windows, colourful furniture and fresh flowers in the rooms
make the place not only attractive to families, but also
to loving summer couples too. Q35 rooms (3 singles 90
- 145Lt, 4 suites 160 - 270Lt, 2 apartments 260 - 400Lt,
25 mini suites 140 - 250Lt). THARKDCW
hhh
Apartments
Astoma C-6, J. Simpsono 9, tel. (+370) 615 498
43, info@astoma.lt, www.astoma.lt. A lovely old clapperboard
house in the centre providing seven modern
apartments with wooden floors, flatscreen televisions,
kitchenettes and balconies in the upstairs flats. Sizes range
from simple one-room affairs to bigger spaces for families
complete with fold-out beds. The price jumps dramatically
during the summer season but is still good value. Check
the website for full details complete with photographs.
Q (1 room apartments 130 - 320Lt, 2 room apartments
200 - 420Lt, 3 room apartments with two bedrooms 240
- 520Lt). TA6LW
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40 palanga
Guesthouses
Pajūrio Svečių Namai D-1, Birutės 56, tel. (+370)
619 321 68, administrator@sveciunamai.lt, www.
sveciunamai.lt. Located mostly inside a modern, Art Decolooking
white building close to the sea and the Birutė Park,
the lovely rooms run the gamut from decent doubles to a
cottage complete with kitchen, fireplace and sauna. Check
the website for more information about each option. Q11
rooms (5 doubles 160 - 700Lt, 6 apartments 350 - 1,200Lt).
PTALXW
Vila Ramybė D-2, Vytauto 54, tel. (+370) 460 541 24,
palanga@vilaramybe.lt, www.vilaramybe.lt. Home to one
of the best bars in town and also a superb little hotel in its
own right, this is the classic, friendly, original Palanga boutique
hotel experience. Close to the centre, choices run from super
singles to rooms with kitchens to a smashing two-room affair
with a balcony. Despite the lack of extras, this remains one of
the nicest places to stay in town. Q 16 rooms (90 - 500Lt).
TAR6KW hhh
The beach
A glorious 18km of sand, dunes and chilly Baltic water
await visitors to Palanga and its surroundings. The short
stretch of coast running parallel to the main urban area
offers everything from the simple pleasures of lying on
the sand and soaking up the sun to taking to the water.
If you don’t have your own equipment with you, ask your
hotel or the Tourist Information Centre for information on
where to rent it, or pop along with your passport to the
Sea Rescue Station below who can provide just about
everything including surfboards, jet skis and even small
boats. At the end of every day, thousands of people head
to the Sea Bridge at the far western end of Basanavičiaus
to watch the sun set before heading off into the night to
get well and truly plastered.
Sea Rescue Station (Palangos Miesto Vandens
Motociklų Klubas) A-1, Žvejų 2a, tel. 1509.
Cafés
1925 C-2, J. Basanavičiaus 4, tel. (+370) 460 525
26, www.baras1925.lt. A firm Palanga favourite, 1925
functions as both a café and a bar and does a fairly good
job at being both. The lush wooden interior is helped
along with the addition of old photographs of inter-war
Lithuania and has a fireplace which is a real attraction
during the winter. There’s a small garden out the back
with things for children to clamber on and upstairs are a
couple of bedrooms if you can’t drag yourself away from
the place. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. TABSW
Vero Café C-2, Vytauto 53, tel. (+370) 618 558
83. At last a chain café comes to Palanga, bringing with
it literally refreshing relief from the standard dishwater
served in the town. True not every place here can’t make
good coffee, but, especially in a town where regular
hangovers are as widespread as bald gentlemen in
Bermuda shorts, it’s a comfort to know it’s here. Surplus
to the aforementioned rocket fuel, Vero also sells an
admirable selection of sandwiches, wraps, cakes and
muffins. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. JS
Where to eat
Palanga’s restaurants and cafés provide sustenance for
the stomach as well as endless opportunities to meet likeminded
people out for a good time. Not exactly a culinary
oasis, the food that gets served in the town is at least
varied, if not mouth-watering. The town’s nightlife options
are considerable, although many new places remain a
secret until well after this guide has gone to press. Clubs
tend to fall into the loud and sweaty category and are generally
there for forgetting about life’s complexities and just
having a ball. An experience not to be missed when in town
is to clamber over the dunes and find one of the bars on
the beach, where, if the weather’s being kind, it’s possible
to drink until sunrise.
Fish
Žuvinė C-1, J. Basanavičiaus 37a, tel. (+370) 656 596
47, www.zuvine.lt. White tablecloth dining complete with a
library and some nice outdoor seating, this recommended fish
restaurant claims to be the only one in town serving freshly
caught seafood. The extensive and refreshingly pricey menu
also includes such Lithuanian oddities as mussels and snails.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. PTAEBSW
International
Feliksas B-2, Vytauto 116, tel. (+370) 612 121 58,
www.feliksas.lt. Done up to resemble the inside of a luxury
yacht with plenty of dark wood and brass fittings, Feliksas
pipes aboard a mixed crowd of jolly sailors who visit to dine
on a range of good-looking international dishes, empty the
well-stocked bar and to take advantage of the live music acts
who perform here. Slightly out of the centre, evenings here
can be immense fun and are well worth the effort when they
are. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. Open 07:00 - 02:00 (Jul - Aug).
17Lt. TAEBSW
palanga.inyourpocket.com
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42 palanga palanga 43
Sea Bridge, see p.44.
Molinis Ąsotis C-2, J. Basanavičiaus 8a, tel. (+370)
460 402 08, www.molinisasotis.lt. The Clay Pitcher offers
a modicum of protection from the seething masses on
Lithuania’s most unsophisticated thoroughfare with a choice
of international dishes which by all accounts taste better
than they read (pork chin fried in beer?). Assuming you can
decipher the gobbledygook on the menu, expect a charming,
old world interior, summer terrace, friendly serving girls and an
impressive wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 21Lt. TABS
Lithuanian
DeCuba C-2, J. Basanavičiaus 28, tel. (+370) 460 510
11, www.decuba.lt. Let’s be honest, this is neither a Cuban
restaurant nor for that matter is it an international restaurant
with Cuban food on the menu. What it actually is is a huge
outdoor theme park of a restaurant with a smaller, year-round
restaurant indoors, complete with little wooden bridges, musical
fountains, cheerful if at times flustered waitresses and a
range of Lithuanian and other dishes to choose from. Popular
with children of all ages, if you had to sum up Palanga in one
location, this would be the place. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 25Lt.
PTAUBSW
Pizza
Čili Pica C-1, J. Basanavičiaus 45, tel. (+370) 460 573
59, www.cili.lt. Lithuania’s champion of pizza restaurants
has chosen a prime location in Palanga in which to operate,
just off the beach at the far end of the town’s favourite street.
Čili Pica continues to court controversy amongst those
who tried their food, although the opinion here is that for
the price you’d be a bit of a fool to complain. As well as the
aforementioned circular sustenance, the menu also includes
meat and pasta dishes plus one or two options for vegetarians.
Immensely popular, don’t roll up when they’re busy if
you need something quick. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. TJAVBSW
Russian
Čagino C-2, J. Basanavičiaus 14a, tel. (+370) 460 535
55. Named after the one-time owner of the building that now
houses their parent restaurant in Vilnius, the Palanga outlet of
this hit-and-miss Russian affair offers classics such as chicken
with smoked plums in modern, glass surroundings on two
floors. Situated along the town’s premier catwalk, recommended
is a plate of blini with lashings of sour cream and a shot of
vodka whilst sat on the terrace watching the rednecks shuffle
by. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 24Lt. PTJAUBSW
Steak
Lašas Steak House C-2, J. Basanavičiaus 29, tel.
(+370) 460 575 45, www.lasashotel.com. A rather bizarre-looking
two-storey house betrays both a recommended
steak restaurant and a hotel of the same name. Assuming you
only want to eat here, the bill of fare specialises in grilled meat
dishes far beyond the reaches of ordinary steak including
venison, duck and crocodile. Good value, protein rich rations
abound, and if you find yourself with a long wait, you might
consider taking advantage of the special in-house Jacuzzi.
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 20 - 30Lt. PTAUEBSW
Valgyklas
Translating into English as dining room or canteen, the
classic Lithuanian valgykla offers students, workers and
in the case of Palanga, cost-conscious holidaymakers,
simple, hearty meals in unsophisticated surroundings at
rock bottom prices. The classic valgykla provides budget
nosh and a step back in time for visitors who need to
watch their pennies. Don’t expect English menus or polyglots
among the staff.
Svetainė (Jūros Akmuo) C-5, Vytauto 94, tel. (+370)
460 532 59. You’ll be hard pushed to find a friendly face in
here, nor for that matter will you come across a matching
knife and fork, but that’s not the point. Sacrificing just about
everything you ever wanted from a restaurant with the exception
of the stuff that goes on the plates, this fine old institution
couldn’t care less about customer service, being far too busy
cooking classic local dishes including cepelinai and kotletai
and keeping them nice and warm until you arrive. Smashing.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 9Lt. BS
Barbecue
Piano Barbecue C-1, Basanavičiaus 24a, tel. (+370)
604 701 01. What else would you call a restaurant that
specialises in barbecue cooking and that features a white
grand piano in the front garden? It may be a bit of a gimmick,
but these people really are trying to make an effort,
which after you’ve run the gauntlet of the standard awful
restaurants in Palanga you’ll be more than grateful for.
There’s also an impressive wine list, and the garden with
the piano in it is a great place to sit and watch the locals
wander by in their thousands on a hot summer day. Q 20Lt.
PTJAEBSW
Microbreweries
Pas Juozą Žibininkai, tel. (+370) 445 446 78,
www.hbh.lt. Looking like a cross between a medieval
village and an out of town shopping centre, what started
as a small bar selling local, family-produced beer in 1995
has turned into something much, much bigger. A recommended
half-day family excursion, surplus to the superb
ale and honest local fare are a huge garden complete with
a basketball court, bizarre sculpture park, sauna, hotel,
an almost endless repertoire of events and, if you need
it, they can also organise everything from horse riding to
paintballing. The beer they make incidentally, HBH, retails
at the marvellous price of just 4Lt for half a litre. In the
tiny settlement of Žibininkai 7km northeast of Palanga,
find it on the other side of the A13 (E272). A taxi should
set you back around 15-20Lt. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
20Lt. PTULEBSW
Nightlife
Nightlife in Palanga revolves around the time-honoured
pursuit of bare-chested car mechanics and their wives
drinking lager and singing along to karaoke and variations
therein. Almost without exception, bars and clubs
are only open during the short summer season making
research almost impossible. If you’re visiting Palanga for
the party atmosphere, simply ask around to see what’s
going on and keep and eye out for the posters all over
town. The following diehard venues are guaranteed to
be open for business.
Laukinių Vakarų Salūnas C-1, J. Basanavičiaus
16, tel. (+370) 670 088 88, www.salunas.lt. What
lobotomies were invented for, this mildly cowboythemed
adventure into brilliant absurdity would last
about a week in most civilised towns. In Palanga
however it’s been packing them in for years, helped
along by a tantalising programme of banality including
karaoke, wet-T-shirt contests and the occasional
foray into the world of impromptu fisticuffs. Brutal,
bonkers and just what every group of puerile staggers
ever desired. Q Open 24hrs. Entrance 10 - 50Lt.
AUEBW
Vila Ramybė D-2, Vytauto 54, tel. (+370) 460
541 24, www.vilaramybe.lt. A hotel bar worth
visiting is a rare thing indeed, and whilst some nights
it’s like the Mary Celeste in here, others are a different
kettle of fish altogether. This welcome haven of
culture comes to life each summer with a very un-
Palanga set of guests who wish nothing more than
to hobnob it with a more arty crowd than the usual
knuckle-draggers. The terrace also acts as a stage
for live jazz from time to time. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Entrance free. AUBSW
Caucasian
Ararat Vytauto 147a, tel. (+370) 652 249 91, www.
ararat.lt. Palanga’s hardly lacking in places to eat grilled
Armenian food, although it does fall down a bit when it’s
required with a touch of class. This restaurant owned and
run by the people of the same name in Klaipėda serves an
extensive range of quality Armenian nosh in an atmosphere
of mild sophistication. A good option for equally decent food
in a less hectic part of town. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 20Lt.
PTAUBS
Armėniška Virtuvė C-2, Basanavičiaus 17, tel.
(+370) 652 875 79, www.kaukazietiskipatiekalai.lt.
One of a number of exemplary restaurants in town serving
this marvellous style of cooking, the grilled meat here, not to
mention the spicy soups, are well worth trying. Concerning
the meat on the menu, avoid everything that isn’t cooked in
the traditional way. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
TJABSW
What to see
If your cultural expectations extend beyond collecting
strangers’ telephone numbers and emptying your
bladder on the beach in the middle of the night, all is
not lost if you find yourself in Palanga. The following few
recommendations provide several opportunities to get
away from the morons and enjoy one or two of the finer
things in life.
Museums
Amber Museum (Gintaro Muziejus) E-1, Vytauto
17, tel. (+370) 460 513 19, www.pgm.lt. Situated inside
the fabulous 19th-century neo-Classical former mansion of
Count Tiškevičius (Pol. Tyszkiewicz), this exemplary museum
holds some 25,000 pieces of amber of which over half have
animals and plants trapped inside. Telling the fascinating story
of Baltic Gold, this is a wonderful place to spend an hour in
and is highly recommended for keeping children entertained.
The back of the mansion features a famous rose garden,
and the mansion itself also hosts the occasional concert
and recital. Q Ticket office open 11:00 - 16:30, Sun 11:00
- 16:30. Closed Mon (Sep 1 - May 30). 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon (Jun 1 - Aug 31). Admission 8/4Lt.
Antanas Mončys House Museum (Antano Mončio
Namai - Muziejus) D-2, S. Daukanto 16, tel. (+370)
460 493 67, www.antanasmoncys.com. Lithuanian sculptor
Antanas Mončys (1921-1993) fled the country in 1944,
eventually finding a home and a place to work in post-war
Paris. Recognised during the massive changes taking place
in Lithuania in 1988, this small cottage-museum features
some of his finest work as well as drawings, exhibition posters,
personal affects and other items of interest. Like all great
sculptors, Mončys was obsessed with the tactile quality of
his work, and accordingly left a clause in his will specifying
that it was perfectly acceptable for others to touch it, these
pieces included. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 4/2Lt.
Dog Museum (Šunų Muziejus) Taikos 8, tel. (+370)
688 188 20, www.sunumuziejus.lt. Not to be outdone by
Šiauliai and its rather splendid Cat Museum, Palanga fights
back tooth and claw with this baffling little diversion. Starting
life two decades ago with a single ceramic dog, the museum
has simply ballooned out of all proportions into a collection
of over 2,000 souvenir hounds made from some 22 different
materials and originating from almost 40 countries. Featuring
everything from dog-shaped earrings to soft stuffed pooches,
the Dog Museum is the only one of its kind in the Baltics, and
we think we know why. Q Open 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Also by appointment. Admission 5/2.50Lt.
Exile & Resistance Museum (Tremties ir Rezistencijos
Muziejus) C-2, J. Basanavičiaus 21. The owners
appear to be in almost permanent exile and there’s a certain
amount of resistance when it comes to unlocking the doors
to this small museum dedicated to those who fought against
the Soviets and who were transported to Siberia. We haven’t
managed to get inside ourselves, so we can’t tell you much
more. A similar museum in Kaunas is well worth visiting if
that’s anything to go by. Q Open Wed, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri. Admission free. J
Churches
Church of the Assumption (Šv. Mergelės Marijos
Dangun Ėmimo Bažnyčia) C-2, M. Valančiaus 51, tel.
(+370) 460 561 86. This grand, neo-Gothic beauty between
the bus station and Basanavičiaus was built between 1897
and 1906 to a design by the Swedish architect K. Strandman.
The dark interior offers a welcome and distinctly cool
break from the madness outside, with the altars made from
scores of little silver arms and legs being of particular interest.
At 76m, the imposing spire can be seen from just about
anywhere in town. Across the street and just to the left is a
WWII Red Army war memorial complete with one of the few
remaining hammer and sickles in the country. Q Mass 08:00,
19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 19:00.
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013

44 palanga
Places of interest
Anaičiai Ethnographic
Cemetery
(Etnografinės
Anaičių Kapinės).
Overlooked entirely,
even by the local
tourist information
people, this extraordinary
collection of
19th- and early 20thcentury
graves in the
tiny hamlet of Anaičiai
is truly remarkable
and should be visited
by anyone with even a passing interest in philology.
Although now part of Palanga, which was at the time
within the Russian Empire, Anaičiai was originally on the
Prussian side of the border, as the mind-boggling writing
on some of the graves shows clearly enough. Among the
more customary renditions of the German and Lithuanian
inscriptions on the graves are a few that reflect not only
the region’s mixed ethnic heritage but that also illustrate
how the Lithuanian language was in effect cleansed at the
start of the 20th century. The pictured gravestone is a
classic example, featuring elements of the German, Lithuanian
and Curonian languages with the addition of Polish
spelling that predates the introduction of the modern
Lithuanian alphabet. A few kilometres south of Palanga
just past the small settlement of Nemirseta, there are no
signposts to aid finding the place, making getting hold of a
Briedis Palanga ir Šventoji map, available from any decent
bookshop for less than 10Lt, essential if you don’t want
to spend the day driving around in circles. The cemetery
is on the left at the end of the first collection of buildings
on the right-hand side of the dirt track.
Sea Bridge (Jūros Tiltas) C-1. Originally built over
100 years ago for unloading ocean-going tourists in
Palanga, at over 400m long, the simple L-shaped wooden
pier (for despite the name ‘tis not a bridge) at the far
western end of Basanavičiaus remains much as it was
during its original incarnation. A simple structure on which
to promenade and with no facilities whatsoever, walking
up and down the pier is all part of the experience, faintly
echoing the formal parades filled with sexual tension that
take place daily throughout the Balkans. Be sure to visit
at least once as the sun is setting as is the norm during
the holiday season.
Parks & Gardens
Birutė Park (Palangos Birutės Parkas) E-1, Vytauto
15. Until recently known as the Botanical Park, this
marvellous 100-hectare park was designed by the French
horticulturalist and landscape gardener Edouard André (1840-
1911) who spent three summers here designing it with his
son at the end of the 19th century. Originally containing an
estimated 500 native and foreign species, the current park
boasts considerably more including pine, fir and elder trees
plus over 600 varieties of plant including 24 considered to
be endangered. The park, which is the perfect place to stroll
or cycle, also contains several statues, ponds full of ducks
and swans and a small zoo. The beach next to the park was
granted Blue Flag status in 2004.
Sculpture Park (Skulptūrų Parkas) C-6. Close
to where Vytauto meets J. Simpsono, the often sadly
overlooked little park packed with 28 contemporary
statues representing several different styles from some
of the top names in Lithuanian sculpture as well as a few
pieces made by artists from Armenia, Estonia, Latvia and
Ukraine was first opened in 1982. Overhauled in 2007
to celebrate its 25th anniversary, this quiet and cultured
haven is the perfect place to escape to if you’re sick and
tired of getting your ankles nipped by tipsy proletariats on
bicycles made for four.
Sport, Leisure & Culture
Visiting Palanga isn’t just about chasing members of
the opposite sex girls and comparing hangovers. Other
treats on offer include everything from bowling and billiards
to a visit to the theatre to exploring the own on a
pair of rollerskates. Find it all and more here.
Bicycles etc.
If you haven’t brought your own set of self-propelled
wheels to Palanga, fear not, just about every hotel and
street corner during the summer season comes with the
option to rent something from rollerblades to bicycles
for anything from an hour to as long as you plan to stay.
Prices are fairly low, and, if you want to get the most of
the area without resorting to an internal combustion
engine, well worth the bother. A passport or other form
of ID that includes a photograph is essential when renting
any of the above.
Cinemas
Naglis D-2, Vytauto 82, tel. (+370) 460 575 75/
(+370) 698 244 22, www.lietuvoskinas.lt. A lovely
old building given over to the age-old pursuit of screening
films for your holiday pleasure, as well as the usual
Hollywood films on offer Naglis occasionally forgets itself
and screens underground, arthouse and documentary
work as well. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 8 - 16Lt. J
Go-karting
Kartų Nuoma Kretingos 56a, tel. (+370) 686
211 30, www.kartunuoma.lt. Outdoor fun in petrolpropelled
go-karts for a decent price, this long established
track also organises weekly competitions with
handsome prizes. They also have a dirt track for larger
vehicles with cages which under certain circumstances
can be taken into the nearby forest. See the website for
more information. Over-12s only. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00
(March - October). Also by appointment.
Tennis
Teniso Aikštynas Gedimino 7, tel. (+370) 698
230 21, www.manotenisas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Theatres
Palanga Summer Theatre (Palangos Vasaros
Estrada) D-2, Vytauto 43. Escape the rabble and
indulge in some quality opera, ballet and classical
music concerts as well as a few more popular music
performances during the summer. Palanga’s claim to
theatrical fame lies in the fact that it was in this town
in 1899 that the play Amerika Pirtyje (America in the
Bathhouse), was performed, the first play ever given in
the Lithuanian language.
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Public transport
Klaipėda’s relatively small centre makes walking from
place to place a good option, with large city-owned buses
and private minibuses providing help when you need to get
from one side of the city to the other. Buses Tickets on
city-owned buses currently cost 2Lt from kiosks or 2.40Lt
if bought directly from the driver. All city-owned buses
require everybody to board through the front door only.
The solitary machine for validating tickets can be found
next to the driver. Probably the most useful bus for visitors
is the N°8 which runs from the bus and train stations down
through the middle of the city and south to the suburbs via
the massive Akropolis shopping centre. The bus’ popularity
makes it a prime target for pickpockets who make a
good living from lackadaisical travellers. Don’t leave small
valuable items in pockets or open bags. A new fleet of
grey, green and orange city-owned buses has recently
been introduced, which unlike any other public transport
in the country has manually operated doors for getting
off. Push the small buttons on the hand rails to open the
doors. The flash-looking screens at many bus stops are
as good as useless as they show the times of the buses
according to the timetable, not where they actually are
on their routes. Minibuses Klaipėda’s superb minibus
(maršrutinis taksi) fleet runs around the clock and puts
those in Vilnius and Kaunas to shame. Flag one down anywhere
in the street and tell the driver when you want him to
stop. Tickets cost 2.50Lt between 06:00 and 23:00, and
3.45Lt at all other times.
Buses
Bus Station O-2, Butkų Juzės 9, tel. (+370) 46 41 15
47. Q Ticket office open 03:30 - 19:30. J
Trains
Train Station (Geležinkelio Stotis) O-1, Priestočio
1, tel. (+370) 46 31 36 77, www.litrail.lt. Catching a
train in Klaipėda is about as interesting as watching grass
grow. Once you’ve bought your ticket all that’s left to do
is to sit and wait. The ticket office on the far left accepts
credit cards, which is about as sophisticated as the train
station gets. Ignore the drinks machine and visit the shop
next door or the bar underneath it. Q Ticket office open
06:10 - 19:00. J
Taxis
Taxis in Lithuania are considerably cheaper if called in
advance rather than grabbed in the street, although
you’re essentially at the mercy of the driver once you’ve
shut the door. Stories often filter through on the subject
of the country’s disreputable taxi drivers, who tend to
congregate in Vilnius. Experiences with taxi drivers in
Klaipėda have been by and large positive. Make sure the
meter’s running before you set off.
Company Tel. Rate/km*
1.50Lt
Autopunktas (+370) 46 31 12 11
Taksoma (+370) 46 34 33 33 1.80Lt
Vyjuvis (+370) 46 34 53 45 1.50Lt
* Prices listed are for standard daytime/evening journeys
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
GettinG around
Train schedule
From Klaipėda To Klaipėda
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
06:50 08:50 ŠIAULIAI 06:35 09:25
08:15 11:12 ŠIAULIAI 09:22 11:22
11:50 13:46 ŠIAULIAI 12:23 14:40
15:05 17:49 ŠIAULIAI 15:43 18:31
17:05 19:06 ŠIAULIAI 20:17 22:17
06:50 11:34 VILNIUS 06:45 11:22
11:50 16:29 VILNIUS 09:41 14:40
17:05 21:54 VILNIUS 17:40 22:17
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to
change during the lifetime of this guide. More information
at www.litrail.lt
Car rental
Most major international car rental companies can be
found in Klaipėda. All types of vehicle are represented,
with many companies also offering chauffeur services.
Most major driving international licences are accepted.
Avis N-6, Žvejų
19, tel. (+370)
46 31 11 11,
klaipeda@avis.
lt, www.avis.lt. Almost exclusively high quality cars
under six months old, available with or without a driver.
Contact them for more. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 16:00. J
Budget K-7, Šilutės 32 (Volvo&Renault building), tel.
(+370) 5 230 67 08 (24 hrs), budget@budget.lt, www.
budget.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Local bus schedule
Kaunas 05:15, 06:10, 06:45, 07:05, 08:30, 11:10,
11:50, 13:50, 14:15, 15:35, 17:00, 17:55, 18:20,
19:25 1 .
Nida/Juodkrantė 10:55 2 , 11:15.
Palanga 09:15, 11:00, 12:25, 12:55, 13:00, 13:25,
14:00, 15:05, 15:30, 17:10, 17:50, 18:30, 18:55, 20:35,
21:10 1, 22:35.
Palanga Airport 12:25, 12:55, 15:20.
Šiauliai 06:55 3 , 08:003 , 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 16:002 ,
17:10.
Vilnius 04:104 , 05:40, 06:10, 08:00, 10:00, 10:45,
12:103 , 13:05, 13:50, 15:153 , 16:30, 17:102 , 17:45,
19:25.
1 2 3 - Fri, Sun, - Fri, Sat, Sun, – from September 1 till June 1
4 – Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat
Valid until 01-01-2013.
Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to
press and subject to change during the lifetime of this
guide. The website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the
best resource for up-to-date, accurate information about
travelling by bus in Lithuania.
June 2012 - May 2013
45

46 GettinG around
Europcar M-6, Žvejų 10, tel. (+370) 618 837 43 (24
hrs)/(+370) 46 31 14 66, klaipeda@europcar.lt, www.
europcar.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Eurorenta G-5, Sukilėlių 2, tel. (+370) 46 38 21 21/
(+370) 686 006 11 (Help line), rent@eurorenta.lt,
www.eurorenta.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. J
Hertz L-4, S. Daukanto 4, tel./fax (+370) 46 31 07 37,
tel. (+370) 698 700 49, klaipeda@hertz.lt, www.hertz.
lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Sixt Tel. (+370) 5 239 56 36, www.sixt.lt. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Airport
Palanga Airport Liepojos 1, tel. (+370) 46 05 20 20,
ops@palanga-airport.lt, www.palanga-airport.lt. For more
information on Palanga Airport, see p.37.
Local ferries
Until such a time as a bridge or tunnel appears, the only
way to get on and off the Lithuanian part of the Curonian
Spit is by ferry, of which there are two routes to choose
from.
First Ferry Terminal (Old Crossing/Senoji
Smiltynės Perkėla) N-7, Danės 1, tel. (+370) 46 31
11 17, www.keltas.lt. The smaller of the two ferry routes
operating between the city and the Curonian Spit is for foot
passengers and cyclists only. The ferry operates from the
northern side of the Danė where it meets the Curonian Lagoon
and was at the time of going to press in need of some serious
signposting. Frequency is much the same as for the New
International ferry schedule
From Klaipėda To Klaipėda
Ferry Dep. Days Arr. Days Destination Dep. Days Arr. Days
Optima Seaways,
Liverpool Seaways
Victoria Seaways,
Regina Seaways
Vilnius Seaways,
Kaunas Seaways
Port Crossing, although services start later and finish earlier.
Q Foot passengers 2.90Lt, bicycles free. J
Second Ferry Terminal (New Crossing/Naujoji
Smiltynės Perkėla) G-7, Nemuno 8, tel. (+370) 46
31 11 17, www.keltas.lt. Ferries shuffle vehicles and foot
passengers across the lagoon between 05:00 and 02:00
or thereabouts. You’re unlikely to have to wait more than
30 minutes for a ferry during the summer, but may have to
wait a little longer at other times. Everything is explained
in Lithuanian and English. Q Buses 65 - 160Lt, cars 40Lt,
motorcycles 18Lt, foot passengers 2.90Lt, bicycles free.
International ferries
DFDS Seaways M-3, Šaulių 19, tel. (+370) 46 39 50 00/
(+370) 46 39 50 01, booking.lt@dfds.com, www.dfdsseaways.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
International Ferry Terminal B-8, Perkėlos 10, tel.
(+370) 46 39 50 51, www.dfdsseaways.lt. The International
Ferry Terminal is situated about 18km south of the city
centre. Small and easy to use, don’t expect too much in the
way of services. Bus Nº1a leaves from the stop immediately
south of the Old Market on Taikos. A ticket from the driver,
which must be validated in the appropriate machine, currently
costs 2.40Lt, and the journey takes about 25 minutes. Depending
on which company you use, a taxi from Old Town will
cost anything from 35-60Lt.
Scandlines / Ferry Center M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton
Klaipėda Hotel), tel./fax (+370) 46 31 05 61, info@
ferrycenter.lt, www.ferrycenter.lt. At the time of going to
press Scandlines were operating under their old name. It’s expected
that later in 2012 the name will change to Ferry Center.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
20:00 1 - 7 09:00 1 - 7 KARLSHAMN 18:00 1 - 7 09:00 1 - 7
15:00 1 12:00 2 KIEL 14:00 1 12:30 2
17:30 2 14:00 3 KIEL 16:00 2 14:00 3
19:00 3 16:00 4 KIEL 18:00 3 16:30 4
21:00 4 18:00 5 KIEL 20:00 4 18:00 5
23:00 5 19:00 6 KIEL 22:00 5 20:00 6
01:00 7 22:00 7 KIEL 23:00 6 22:30 7
21:00 2, 6 14:00 3, 7 SASSNITZ 21:00 1, 5 16:00 2, 6
19:00 4 12:00 5 SASSNITZ 19:00 3 14:00 4
Valid from 03 01 2012 till further notice
From Ventspils (Latvia) To Ventspils (Latvia)
Ferry Dep. Days Arr. Days Destination Dep. Days Arr. Days
Scottish Viking 00:01 2 10:00 2 NYNÄSHAMN 10:00 1 22:05 1
09:00 3 19:00 3 NYNÄSHAMN 19:00 2 07:05 3
20:00 4 08:00 5 NYNÄSHAMN 22:00 3 10:00 4
18:00 6 06:05 7 NYNÄSHAMN 22:00 5 10:00 6
23:00 7 09:00 1 NYNÄSHAMN 08:00 7 20:00 7
Watling Street 04:00 2, 5 07:30 3, 6 TRAVEMÜNDE 18:00 3, 6 20:00 4, 7
From Liepaja (Latvia) To Liepaja (Latvia)
Urd 04:00 3 07:30 4 TRAVEMÜNDE 18:00 1 22:30 2
Ask 04:00 4 07:30 5 TRAVEMÜNDE 18:00 2 22:30 3
Urd 18:00 6 20:00 7 TRAVEMÜNDE 20:00 4 23:30 5
Ask 04:00 7 07:30 1 TRAVEMÜNDE 20:00 5 23:30 6
Note: Line’s operator reserves the right to change the schedule. Local times are used for all departures and arrivals.
For more info and out of season schedules visit www.dfdsseaways.lt, www.ferrycenter.lt.
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

48 GettinG around
Flight schedule
From Palanga To Palanga
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 07:00 07:10 COPENHAGEN (SK) – – – – – 6 – 11:20 13:30
– – – – – 6 – 14:00 14:10 COPENHAGEN (SK)
1 2 3 4 5 – –
until 06 07; only 09 08 and from 13 08 till 26 10 14:50 15:00 COPENHAGEN (SK)
1 2 3 4 5 – –
until 06 07; only 09 08 and from 13 08 till 26 10 12:10 14:20
1 2 3 4 5 – –
from 09 07 till 08 08 and only 10 08 12:10 14:20
1 2 3 4 5 – –
from 09 07 till 08 08 and only 10 08 14:50 15:00 COPENHAGEN (SK) – – – – – – 7 12:35 14:45
(+ 1)*
– – – – – – 7 15:15 15:25 COPENHAGEN (SK) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 22:45 00:50
– – – – – – 7 till 28 08 10:40 13:40 MOSCOW (RLU) – – – – – – 7 till 28 08 09:00 10:00
1 – – – – – –
only 04 06, 11 06, 18 06 and from 27 08 till 22 10 14:55 15:15 OSLO (SK)
– – 3 – 5 – –
only 06 06, 08 06, 13 06, 15 06, 20 06; only 29 08,
31 08; only 05 09, 10 09, 12 09, 14 09, 19 09, 26 09,
28 09; only 03 10, 09 10, 17 10, 24 10.
– – 3 – 5 – –
only 01 06, 22 06; only 07 09, 21 09 and 05 10, 12
10, 19 10, 26 10.
1 – 3 – 5 – –
no flight from 23 06 till 19 08; no flight on 24 08, 31
08; no flight on 07 09, 14 09, 28 09 and 05 10, 12
10, 19 10, 26 10.
1 – 3 – 5 – –
only 24 08, 31 08; only 07 09, 14 09, 28 09; only 05
10, 12 10, 19 10, 26 10.
14:30 14:50 OSLO (SK)
14:30 14:50 OSLO (SK)
10:10 10:30 OSLO (DY)
10:10 10:30 OSLO (DY)
1 – – – – – –
only 04 06, 11 06, 18 06 and from 27
08 till 22 10
11:55 14:15
– – 3 – 5 – –
only 06 06, 08 06, 13 06, 15 06, 20 06; only
29 08, 31 08; only 05 09, 10 09, 12 09, 14 11:30 13:50
09, 19 09, 26 09, 28 09; only 03 10, 09 10,
17 10, 24 10.
– – 3 – 5 – –
only 01 06, 22 06; only 07 09, 21 09 and 05
10, 12 10, 19 10, 26 10.
1 – 3 – 5 – –
no flight from 23 06 till 19 08; no flight on 24
08, 31 08; no flight on 07 09, 14 09, 28 09
and 05 10, 12 10, 19 10, 26 10.
1 – 3 – 5 – –
only 24 08, 31 08; only 07 09, 14 09, 28 09;
only 05 10, 12 10, 19 10, 26 10.
11:30 13:50
07:15 09:35
07:15 09:35
– – – – – – 7 till 12 08. 10:10 10:30 OSLO (DY) – – – – – – 7 till 12 08. 07:15 09:35
– 2 – 4 – – – till 16 08. 21:30 21:50 OSLO (DY) – 2 – 4 – – – till 16 08. 18:30 20:50
– – – 4 – 6 7 08:45 09:30 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:00 20:45
1 2 3 – 5 – –
*+ 1 arrival next day.
05:25 06:10 RIGA (BT)
Airline codes: SK - SAS, DY - Norwegian Air Shuttle, BT - Air Baltic, RLU - RusLine. Correct at the time of going to press
and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. Airport information is on p.37. Valid until 27 10 2012.
BaltiCCycle (Du Ratai) M/L-
6, Naujoji Uosto 3, tel. (+370)
615 917 73, rent@bicycle.lt,
rent.bicycle.lt. An impressive
range of bicycles for all the family
available for rent from the country’s
leading cycling organisation.
Also advice, service, maps, tours to the Curonian Spit
and just about everything else connected with cycling.
Q Open 09:00 - 21:00 (May - Sep). Other time by
appointment only. J
Seaside cycling
Several groups and organisations have worked together over
the past few years to promote cycling in the Klaipėda region.
As well as a series of cycle lanes in the city itself, a handful
of larger routes have been developed under the collective
name Seaside Cycle Route, including one that runs through
part of the fabulous Nemunas Delta Regional Park on the
eastern side of the Curonian Lagoon. Two other routes
worthy of further investigation and both of them for cycling
only are the 25km trail hugging the coast north to Palanga
and the 55km cycle track that runs all the way down the
Lithuanian side of the Curonian Spit to Nida via Juodkrantė.
For more information, see the superb www.bicycle.lt.
Travel agencies
Baltic Clipper N-7, Turgaus 2, tel. (+370) 46 31 23
12, office@bc.lt, www.bc.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA
Baltic Travel Service M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1, tel. (+370)
46 31 06 00, klaipeda@bts.lt, www.bts.lt. QOpen 08:00
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA
Klaipėdos Mėja L-4, S. Šimkaus 21-8, tel. (+370) 46 31
02 95, info@meja.lt, www.meja.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Krantas Travel N-7, Teatro 5, tel. (+370) 46 39 51 11,
www.krantas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. JA
The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind Užupio 23-9, Vilnius,
tel. (+370) 616 200 07, info@nevermind.lt. A range
of friendly, professional services for independent travellers.
Everything from car rental to accommodation to tailor-made
tours throughout the Baltics. See their website for more
information. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. JA
West Express M-3, S. Daukanto 20, tel. (+370) 46 31
03 11, klaipeda@westexpress.lt, www.westexpress.
lt. Also at Taikos 61 (Akropolis). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA
Zigzag L-2, J. Janonio 16-1, tel. (+370) 46 31 46 72,
klaipeda@zigzag.lt, www.zigzag.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Keeping in touch is relatively easy in 21st-century Lithuania.
All three local mobile phone companies provide easy-to-use
prepaid services which despite the current lowering of roaming
charges within the EU still represent a considerable saving if you
plan on using your phone a fair amount. The Lithuanian word for
internet is internetas. Internet café is interneto kavinė.
Post
Central Post Office O-5, Liepų 16, tel. (+370) 46 31
50 14, www.post.lt. Posting a letter or using Western
Union never felt so good. This wonderful neo-Gothic building
was constructed towards the end of the 19th century and is
worth a look inside even if you don’t want to use the services
provided. The tower hides a marvellous, 48-bell carillion which
is played every Saturday and Sunday at 12:00. QOpen 08:00
- 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Laptop login
Wireless W A fair number of cafés, restaurants and
hotels in Klaipėda are part of a national network of paid
wireless internet hotspots. To use them, turn your wireless
on and choose the Zebra network. When you open your web
browser you’ll see a page with instructions and prices. You
can pay via SMS if you’ve got a local SIM card. The service
has improved considerably since it was first rolled out and
is now fast and fairly cheap. A day’s access currently costs
5Lt. It’s still always worth checking for a free connection.
Several cafés and hotel lobbies around town provide them.
3G Local mobile operators Bitė (www.bite.lt) and Omnitel
(www.omnitel.lt) both offer nationwide 3G services for
laptop connection to the internet via either a dongle or
3G-enabled mobile phone. What you actually get is far
from perfect, but if you’re prepared for slightly slower
speeds than broadband, your connection dropping out
a few times a day and incompatible software that could
conflict with your operating system then one of these
services might be just for you. Available as both a prepaid
and contract service, they also come with the added
convenience of GPRS backup for obscure locations.
Dialup Assuming you’ve got an RJ-11 plug on the end
of your cable (visitors from the UK please note that
you probably don’t), a nifty, hassle-free dialup option
is available for those who can’t find any other connection.
Simply dial tel. 890 15 55 55 from anywhere
in the country using your dial-up software of choice
leaving the username and password blank and away
you go. Calls are charged at a standard 0.12Lt/min at
all times from a private line (this figure may well be a
lot higher in a hotel), and everything is charged directly
to whoever’s telephone account you’re using.
Prepaid SIM cards
Card Price
(Lt)
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Local
(Lt/min)
London
(Lt/min)
Top-up
(Lt)
Mail & Phones
Emergency numbers
Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112
Postal rates
Express mail rates
Lithuania EU Outside EU
Letter (44g) 1.65Lt 2.95Lt 3.35Lt
Postcard (20g) 1.55Lt 2.45Lt 2.90Lt
CD (130g) 2.50Lt 5.90Lt 11.75Lt
Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a
maximum of 500g.
London Paris New York
DHL 170Lt 170Lt 240Lt
EMS 215Lt 213Lt 210Lt
UPS 182Lt 182Lt 175Lt
Express mail
DHL I-5, tel. (+370) 5 236 07 00, ltinfo@dhl.com, www.
dhl.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
EMS (Express Mail Service) O-5, Priestočio 7, tel.
(+370) 46 31 50 31. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:30 -
14:00. Closed Sun. J
UPS O-5, Danės 31, tel. (+370) 46 42 10 00, fax (+370)
46 42 10 01, klaipeda@ups.lt, www.skubiossiuntos.lt.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Mobile phones
Bitė M-2, H. Manto 40, tel. (+370) 699 232 30, www.
bite.lt. Also at Taikos 61 (Akropolis), Taikos 139 (BIG).
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Omnitel H-8, Minijos 90, tel. 1533, www.omnitel.lt. Also
at Taikos 61 (Akropolis), Taikos 139 (BIG). QOpen 08:00 -
18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
TELE2 N-3, S. Daukanto 27, tel. (+370) 46 25 61 98,
www.tele2.lt. Also at Taikos 61 (Akropolis), Taikos 139 (BIG).
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Internet cafés
Topo Centras I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370)
46 23 70 64. Several Macs inside a shop selling vacuum
cleaners, digital cameras etc. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A
SMS
(Lt)
Voicemail
(Lt/call)
Bitė (Labas) 6 0.49 1.99 5/10/20/40/99 0.11 0.10 99%
Omnitel (Ežys) 5 0.46 2.03 From 5 0.10 Free 99%
TELE2 (Pildyk) 4.50 0.48 1.85 5/7/10/15/20/35/50 0.10 0.15 96%
Note All prices quoted are for peak-time calls, and are subject to change during the lifespan of this guide.
Coverage
June 2012 - May 2013
49

50 Shopping
The ever-increasing collection of colossal shopping and entertainment
centres in the southern part of Klaipėda has meant
the emptying of large parts of the city centre, with Old Town
being the worst affected. If you like shopping more than you
like culture however, this is a good thing. Having said that, Old
Town remains the place for gifts and souvenirs such as amber
and linen, although be careful of the stuff sold from the stalls
at the outdoor market on Theatre Square (Teatro Aikštė). Over
the river on H. Manto are a handful of small shopping centres
plus a collection of retail outlets selling everything from
handbags to shotguns.
Shopping centres
Akropolis I-7, Taikos 61, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.
lt. Bursting with shops selling everything from shoes to fur
coats to video cameras. Also a large Maxima supermarket,
cinema, ice-skating, a place to keep the children amused and
several restaurants. Don’t miss the extraordinary mechanical
clock that performs on the hour. Bus Nº8 runs from the centre
past the front door. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PJAUW
BIG/BIG2 Taikos 139/141, tel. (+370) 46 27 74 99,
big@bpt.lt, www.bigklaipeda.lt. Comprising two vast
shopping areas next to each other, namely BIG and BIG2,
Klaipėda’s biggest shopping centre is located in the south of
the city and is easily reachable by public transport and taxi.
Shopping includes large IKI and Maxima supermarkets, retail
outlets selling everything from beauty products to fashion to
household electrical goods, scores of restaurants and cafés
including Chinese food, pizza and others and sports and
leisure facilities including mini-golf and a ‘labyrinth of horror.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. PTAULW
Herkaus Galerija M-3, H. Manto 22, tel. (+370) 618
099 02, www.herkausgalerija.lt. The newest of the clutch
of similar places in the city centre, this is dedicated almost
entirely to fashion outlets. Also find an average Chinese
restaurant and two cafés. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JA
Markets
Flea Market (Blusų Turgus) N-7 Aukštoji Lining one street
in Old Town this rather lacklustre affair sells mostly junk and the
occasional piece of interest. Worth a browse if the weather’s
good.
Old Market (Senasis Turgus) 0-7/8, tel. (+370) 46
41 25 07, www.klturgus.lt. The classic Lithuanian market
experience, this predominantly outdoor affair is the place to
come for exotic Chinese underpants, ill-fitting sweaters and,
towards the back, meat, fruit, vegetables, flowers and plants.
It’s also been known for a second-hand market to show up
here, plus the whole area is surrounded by shops and bars
with real character. The older part of the market at the back, in
Turgaus Aikštė, is just like stepping back into the past complete
with imposing Germanic buildings and metal telegraph poles
that must be at least 70 years old. Worth a look around even
if you don’t need to buy anything. QOpen 06:00 - 18:00.
Amber
Aukso Centras Taikos 139 (BIG), tel. (+370) 46 36 03
92. A good selection of amber jewellery, plus more traditional
pieces and other works of art in silver and gold. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
Antiques
Antikvariatas N-6/7, Kurpių 2-1, tel. (+370) 46 31 36 25.
Coins, furniture, porcelain, stamps, postcards and other collectables.
QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Art supplies
Art Manija L-4, S. Šimkaus 3/30, tel. (+370) 46 31 14
07, www.artmanija.lt. Everything for the artist plus a selection
of the basics for making jewellery. Also a small supply
of wedding-related bits and pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Books etc.
Retro Knygos N-6, Tiltų 19, tel. (+370) 46 21 02 13.
It’s almost impossible to buy new books in English in town at
the moment, making this cramped second-hand shop worth
its weight in gold. The selection may not be massive but
there’s a fairly good range of paperbacks and coffee table
books on offer. They also deal in a few antiques and general
bric-a-brac. Also at Taikos 141 (BIG 2). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Vaga M-4, H. Manto 9, tel. (+370) 46 40 29 12, www.vaga.
lt. A pitiful collection of books in English in a very central location.
Handy for dictionaries, local language literature and little else.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Computers
iDeal M-2, Lietuvininkų 7, tel. (+370) 46 43 13 15. The
city’s only Apple outlet stocks a small selection of products
including laptops, iPhones and iPads. Accessories, chargers
etc. are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. JAW
Food & Drink
Bičių Korys N-7, Sukilėlių 18, tel. (+370) 46 31 38 80,
www.biciukorys.lt. An indication of the importance of bees
and bee-keeping in Lithuania, this shop is an outlet of one of
the largest companies in the country. As well as stocking a
selection of superb honey, they also sell everything necessary
for keeping bees yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Flowers & Plants
If you’re thinking of giving flowers to somebody in Lithuania,
remember that superstition remains rife here and
it’s easy to make a mistake. There are certain rules that
should be adhered to if you wish to keep on the right side
of your sweetheart and/or future parents-in-law. Firstly,
unless somebody just died, make sure you only give an
odd number of flowers or stems. One will do, but isn’t
particularly welcomed unless it’s a single red rose for
the one you love. Lilies and chrysanthemums are potent
symbols of death and should be left well alone unless
heading to the cemetery. If giving flowers to members
of the older generations avoid yellow ones. Yellow is
the colour of jealousy, and can be traced back to the
Middle Ages when yellow was the traditional colour of
the dresses worn by ladies of a questionable profession.
Carnations, especially red ones, are symbols of the
communists. Again, avoid. And if you just so happen to
be in Lithuania on International Women’s Day (March 8),
it’s appropriate for men to give red tulips to their female
colleagues at work.
Florika N-7, Turgaus 4, tel. (+370) 46 31 27 11.
A small selection of flowers that can be combined to
order plus a few houseplants. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 16:30. J
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Rūta I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 618 664
87, www.ruta.lt. Šiauliai’s Rūta confectionary factory was
founded in 1913 and still makes some of the best sweets
and chocolates in Eastern Europe. Stuff yourself stupid
whilst walking around the city or buy some as a unique gift
or souvenir. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Marginiai N-7, Sukilėlių 4, tel. (+370) 46 41 04
88. Paintings, folk costumes, amber, wood carvings,
wooden bowls, linen etc. A big selection in the best
location. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. J
Suvenyrų Pasaulis N-8, Aukštoji 5, tel. (+370) 46 41
04 86. Amber, wooden carvings, and other local treats, plus
a range of unique, hand-painted clothing. QOpen 10:00 -
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
House & Garden
SBA Idėjos Namams Baltijos 6a, tel. (+370) 46
31 14 00, www.idejosnamams.lt. Stacks of fairly good
furniture. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sun. A
Senukai K-7, Šilutės 35/35a, tel. (+370) 46 41 64 16,
www.senukai.lt. Building materials, electrical equipment,
miscellaneous household essentials, some basic office furniture,
garden centre and outdoor furniture. QOpen 08:00
- 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A
Tomasella G-6, Minijos 2, tel. (+370) 46 49 68 67,
www.tomasella.lt. The best way to spruce up your newly
purchased apartment or rental property. Get everything you
need from the kitchen to the bedroom. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Jewellery
Yurga N-7, Turgaus 10, tel. (+370) 46 21 12 50,
www.yurga.lt. Hand-made jewellery inspired by themes
from nature and formed from amber, iron, gold and silver.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
JA
Lithuanian Designers
JuliaJanus M-3, H. Manto 22 (Herkaus Galerija, 2nd
floor), tel. (+370) 693 898 68, www.juliajanus.com.
Applying a soft touch with stunning effect, Julija is the sort of
designer who’d like to get to know you before you get dressed.
Not only can she design your personal wardrobe, but your
whole house too. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JA
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
Musical instruments
Tamsta M-4, Ligoninės 16, tel. (+370) 46 31 41 13,
www.tamsta.lt. Tucked away in a small side street Tamsta
stocks a magnificent range of acoustic, electric and
electronic instruments as well as a wide choice of spares
and accessories. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Office supplies
Office Day J-5, Šilutės 2, tel. (+370) 46 48 51 71, www.
officeday.lt. Office supplies of every description. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Photography
Vilbra Foto O-4, Liepų 24, tel. (+370) 46 31 00 18,
www.vilbrafoto.lt. The only dedicated photography shop
in the city, Vilbra Photo stocks a few dSLRs, compact digital
cameras and the like plus flashguns, camera bags, batteries
and other essentials for amateurs and enthusiasts alike.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Sport & Leisure
Romada L-5, Bokštų 8-10, tel. (+370) 46 49 37 02,
www.romada.lt. A mindboggling array of equipment for
fresh-water and sea fishing. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sun. JA
Sportland I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 46
46 91 83. Mostly sports clothing plus a few accessories.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. JA
Veloma H-5, Taikos 21, tel. (+370) 46 38 08 37. On
the large main road connecting Old Town with the sleeping
districts to the south, this large shop and repair outlet holds
an impressive stock of bicycles for all types of cycling, gender
and ages. The repair section can handle all types of problems
and can also service bicycles. There’s also a small stock
of accessories. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Supermarkets
IKI N-4, M. Mažvydo 7-11, tel. (+370) 46 41 12 71,
www.iki.lt. IKI shops were the first Western-style supermarkets
to arrive in the country, and still supply a good
range of hard-to-find food in Lithuania. Also at Taikos 115.
Taikos 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. JA
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
June 2012 - May 2013
51

52 directory
Accountants
KPMG L-5, Naujoji Uosto 11, tel. (+370) 46 48 00 12,
www.kpmg.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Banks
DNB I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. 1608, www.dnb.lt.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J
SEB L-2, H. Manto 31, tel. 1528, www.seb.lt. Also at
Taikos 115. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Swedbank H-6, Taikos 52c/1, tel. 1884, www.swedbank.lt.
Also at H. Manto 84, Turgaus 9. QOpen 08:00 -
19:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Ūkio Bankas L/M-2, J. Janonio 6b, tel. (+370) 46 39
21 01, www.ub.lt. Also at H. Manto 84, Taikos 101. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Barbers & Salons
Elada N-6, Jono 5, tel. (+370) 46 21 96 55. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Grožė N-5, H. Manto 4, tel. (+370) 46 41 19 94. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J
Business connections
Klaipėda Chamber of Commerce Industry & Crafts
(Klaipėdos Prekybos, Pramonės ir Amatų Rūmai)
M-6, Danės 17, tel. (+370) 46 39 08 61, www.kcci.lt. A
conglomeration of big local businesses and a possible foot
in the door for outsiders looking for business opportunities
in the region. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Klaipėda Economic Development Agency
(Klaipėdos Ekonominės Plėtros Agentūra) F-1,
H. Manto 84-217, tel. (+370) 46 31 10 10, www.kepa.
lt. A local organisation with European money responsible for
a host of initiatives and advice on all manner of business
opportunities. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Klaipėda International Business Club N-7, tel.
(+370) 698 776 54, www.kibc.lt. Representing non-
Lithuanian companies and individuals doing business in the
Klaipėda Region, promoting business-to-business, networking
opportunities and a range of other events including plenty
of socialising both formal and not-so formal. J
Computer repair
ACK F-1, H. Manto 84 (Studlendas), tel. (+370) 634
972 66. A small place inside a shopping centre specialising
in DOS-based computer repair. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. A
Conference facilities
Navalis M-3, H. Manto 23, tel. (+370) 46 40 42 00,
www.navalis.lt. J
Radisson Blu Hotel Klaipėda M-3, Šaulių 28, tel.
(+370) 46 49 08 00, www.radissonblu.com. J
Consumer rights
European Consumer Centre (Europos Vartotojų
Centras) Odminių 12, Vilnius, tel. (+370) 5 265 03
68, www.ecc.lt. A free service, the European Consumer
Centre’s staff in Lithuania are on hand to deal with any
consumer issues people have when in Lithuania.Q Open
08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. Lunch
12:00 - 12:45.
Dry cleaners
Joglė I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 614 484
01, www.jogle.lt. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00 (from June 1
until September 2). Open 10:00 - 21:00 (from September
3 until May 31) A
Foreign representations
Russian Consulate (Rusijos Federacijos Generalinis
Konsulatas Klaipėdoje) G-6, Šermukšnių 4, tel.
(+370) 46 49 99 52/(+370) 698 786 84, ruskonsul@
klaipeda.omnitel.net. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, 15:00 - 16:00
Mon - Fri. J
Health
Fielmann M-3, H. Manto 30, tel. (+370) 46 31 00 72,
www.fielmann.lt. Opticians. Also at Tiltų 22. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Gintarinė Vaistinė R-7/8, Taikos 39, tel. (+370) 46 38
05 03. Pharmacy. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Odontologijos Kabinetas L-5, S. Daukanto 22, tel.
(+370) 46 41 08 98. Dentist. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Respublikinė Klaipėdos Ligoninė N-1, S. Nėries 3,
tel. (+370) 46 41 07 11, www.rkligonine.lt. Hospital.
Q Open 24hrs. J
Insurance
IF Draudimas M-2, Lietuvininkų 4, tel. (+370) 46 40 42
30, www.if.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Interpreters
BalTICK Language Services L-4, S. Šimkaus 21-4,
tel. (+370) 46 41 18 14, www.baltick.lt. QOpen 08:30
- 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Key cut
Most real estate agents provide only one set of keys,
meaning it’s the tenant’s responsibility to get a spare set
cut. This isn’t a difficult task, as most supermarkets of any
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
note have a key-cut kiosk somewhere inside. One piece
of advice to newcomers is that it’s not a brilliant idea to
label keys, as this is as good as inviting would-be burglars
to come and visit your house. Expect to pay somewhere in
the region of 40Lt for a standart three-key cut.
Raktas M-3, S. Daukanto 19, tel. (+370) 698 088 33 (24
hrs). QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Language courses
American English School H-6, Taikos 28-209, tel.
(+370) 46 41 23 12, www.ames.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lawyers
Sudintas, Juodys ir Partneriai M-4, S. Šimkaus 14,
tel. (+370) 46 31 21 88. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Notaries
Notary Bureau 1 M-3, S. Daukanto 21/26, tel. (+370)
46 31 26 72, www.notarius.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Notary Bureau 2 L/M-2, J. Janonio 4-12, tel. (+370)
46 25 57 50. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Officials
Coast Guard (VSAT Pakrančių Apsaugos Rinktinė)
L-2, Gintaro 1, tel. (+370) 46 39 78 50, www.pasienis.lt. J
Curonian Spit National Park Administration
Smiltynė Visitor’s Centre (Kuršių Nerijos Nacionalinio
Parko Direkcijos Lankytojų Centras
Smiltynėje) Smiltynės 11, tel. (+370) 46 40 22 56/
(+370) 469 512 56, www.nerija.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00,
13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Klaipėda & Sea Port Customs (Klaipėdos
Teritorinė Muitinė) N-2, S. Nėries 4, tel. (+370) 46
39 00 00, www.cust.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 -
15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Klaipėda Municipality N-5, Liepų 11, tel. (+370) 46
39 60 66, www.klaipeda.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri
08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Klaipėda State Seaport Authority (Klaipėdos
Valstybinio Jūrų Uosto Direkcija) E-2, J. Janonio 24,
tel. (+370) 46 49 97 99, www.portofklaipeda.lt. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Seaside Regional Park Administration (Pajūrio
Regioninio Parko Direkcija) Karklė, tel. (+370) 46 41
24 83, www.pajuris.info. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00
- 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun (from September 16 until May 31)
Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00
(from June 1 until September 15).
Photocopying
Konica Minolta I-5, Tilžės 52, tel. (+370) 46 31 04
80, www.konicaminolta.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri
08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Real estate
BNTP Pramonės 8a, tel. (+370) 46 30 01 64, www.
bntp.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Oberhaus L-4, S. Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 46 40 20 16,
www.ober-haus.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
directory
Sport & Leisure
Budys Yacht Club (Budys Jachtklubas) L-4, Puodžių
1, tel. (+370) 680 555 46, www.budys.lt. Q Open by
appointment only. J
Horse Market Dargužiai, tel. (+370) 655 999 06, www.
horsemarket.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon.
Klaipėda Gym M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipėda
Hotel), tel. (+370) 675 485 84, www.klaipedagym.lt.
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PJADC
Klaipėda Parachute Club (Klaipėdos
Parašiutininkų Klubas) Dirvupiai, tel. (+370) 652
025 26, www.skydiving.lt. Leave your new overweight
Norwegian expat friends in the pub and get thee to this place.
Run by a bunch of appropriately crazy albeit responsible when
it matters locals, bring your parachute or learn how to do it
courtesy of an old AN-2 and a Cessna 175. The club is very
relaxed, and visitors are welcome to sleep there at no extra
cost just as long as they bring their own sleeping bag. Q By
appointment only.
National Golf Resort Stančiai, tel. (+370) 46 42 00
00, www.nationalgolf.lt. A full, 18-hole, 72 par affair completed
at the end of 2008 to a design by the internationally
acclaimed course designers, Santana & Krause. About12km
north of Klaipėda and even closer to Kretinga, the course,
which also includes a driving range, sits either side of the
Danė river and is by those who’ve played it a fine affair. Part
of a larger development project, the land around the course
will eventually feature several villas and a large hotel. See
the website for more information. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Oktopusas Šilutės 79, tel. (+370) 46 38 18 50, www.
oktopusas.lt. A professional diving centre offering courses
and underwater adventures around the country. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
June 2012 - May 2013
53

54 Street regiSter
All of the venues in this
guidebook marked with
an Old Town symbol
(J) are featured as
such because even
if they’re not in Old
Town per se, they are
at least on the map
opposite which we call
Old Town. Confused?
Don’t be.
Aukštoji N-7/O-8
Baltikalnio P-6/R-7
Bangų P-7/R-6
Bažnyčių O-7
Bokštų L-4/M-5
Bružės N/O-8
Butkų Juzės N/P-2
Danės L-7/R-4
Daržų N-8/O-7
Didžioji Vandens N/O-7
Galinė O-7
Galinio Pylimo O-8/7
Gintaro L-2
Gluosnių P/R-6
Grįžgatvio O-7
H. Manto L-1/N-6
I. Kanto L-3/4
J. Janonio L/M-2
Jono N-7/O-6
J. Karoso N-3/O-5
Jūrininkų takas L-5
Jūros L-4/M-6
J. Zauerveino L-4
J. Zembrickio L-1/M-2
Kalvių N-7/6
K. Donelaičio N-3/O-4
Kepėjų N-7/O-6
Krovėjų L-5
Kūlių vartų P-7/8
Kurpių N-7/O-6
Laivų skg. O-4/P-5
Liepų N-5/R-3
Ligoninės M-3/N-4
Mažoji Smilties
Mažoji
N-4
Vandens N/O-6
M. Mažvydo alėja
M-4/O-3
Mėsininkų N-6/7
Naujoji Uosto L-4/M-6
Naujojo Sodo L-6/N-5
Pakalnės O/R-5
Pasiuntinių N-6/7
Pievų Tako L-2/3
Pilies M-7/N-8
Pylimo O-6/7
Priestočio L-1/R-2
Puodžių L-4/M-5
Ramioji M-2/1
S. Daukanto L-4/R-2
Sinagogų O/P-8
Skerdėjų N/O-8
S. Nėries N-3/1
Sodų O-2
S. Šimkaus L-4/M-5
Sukilėlių N-7/8
Šaltkalvių O-7
Šaulių M-1/N-4
Taikos pr. P-7/8
Teatro M/N-7
Tiltų N-6/O-7
Tilžės P/R-8
Tomo N-7/O-6
Trilapio P-1/R-3
Turgaus N-7/O-6
Uosto L-5/M-6
Vežėjų N-6/O-7
Vilties M/N-2
Vytauto M-5/O-4
Žvejų M-7/N-6
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

58 Index
ACK 52
Aismarės 15
AJ Šokoladas 22
Akropolis 50
Alanga 38
Amber Gallery 35
Amber Museum 43
Amberton Klaipėda 12
American English School 53
Anaičiai Ethnographic
Cemetery 44
Anikės Teatras 18
Ännchen von Tarau 29
Antanas Mončys House
Museum 43
Antikvariatas 50
Apartamentų Nuoma 16
Apart Hotel Ararat 12
Ararat 18, 43
Aribė 12
Armėniška Virtuvė 43
Art Manija 50
Astoma 38
Atlantas 13
Atmintis 29
Aukso Centras 50
Autopunktas 45
Ąžuolynas 5
Baltic Clipper 48
BaltiCCycle 48
Baltick Language
Services 52
Baltic Travel Service 48
Bambola 20
Bandelių Namai 22
Bar4Soul 23
Baroti Galerija 11
Bičių Korys 50
BIG/BIG2 50
Bitė 49
Blacksmith Museum 27
Black & White 22
Birutė Park 44
BNTP 53
Budget 45
Budys Yacht Club 53
Bus Station 31, 37, 45
Café Klaipėda 18
Café Kubu 22
Čagino 42
Castle Museum 27
Catholic Church 36
Central Post Office 49
Charlie Pizza 20
Church of the
Assumption 43
Čili Pica 20, 34, 42
Coast Guard 53
Coffee Inn 22
Cukrainė 22
Curonian Spit National Park
Administration Smiltynė
Visitor's Centre 53
DeCuba 42
Delano 18
DFDS Seaways 46
DHL 49
DNB 52
Dog Museum 43
Dr. Who 24
Dunes 36
Elada 52
El Calor 26
Eldorado 19
EMS 49
Ešerinė 33
Ethno-Cultural Centre 11
Ethnographic Fisherman's
Museum 35
Europa 17
Europcar 46
European Consumer
Centre 52
Eurorenta 46
Euterpė 12
Evangelical Lutheran
Church 6
Evangelical-Lutheran
Church 36
Exile & Resistance
Museum 43
Fat Cat 19
Feliksas 40
Ferdinandas 20
Fielmann 52
First Ferry Terminal (Old
Crossing/Senoji Smiltynės
Perkėla) 46
Flamingo 17
Flea Market 50
Florika 50
Fortūna 15
Forum Cinemas Akropolis 11
Friedricho Baras 23
Friedricho Picerija 20
Friedricho Restoranas 20
Friedricho Smuklė 17
Friedricho Svečių Namai 15
Gabija 37
German Soldiers'
Cemetery 28
Gintarinė Vaistinė 52
Grožė 52
Haemmerli 21
Herkaus Galerija 50
Herman Blode Museum 35
Hertz 46
History Museum of
Lithuania Minor 27
Homeland Farewell 29
Honolulu Bowling 26
Horse Market 53
iDeal 50
IF Draudimas 52
IKI 51
Info Hotel 38
Inkaras 18
Inkaro Kaimas 33
International Ferry
Terminal 46
In Vino 34
Jewish Cemetery 30
Jewish Community
Centre 30
Jing Bin Lou 18
Joglė 52
Jogundė 17
Ju Binlou 35
Jukunda 16
JuliaJanus 51
Juodasis Vilkas 17
Juodkrantė Cemetery 6
Jūratė 31
Kartų Nuoma 44
Katpėdėlė 17
Kebabai 18
Keltininko Namas 19
KGB Memorial Room 29
Kitchen 34
Kiwi 24
KKKC Parodų Rūmai 11
Klaipėda Chamber of
Commerce Industry &
Crafts 52
Klaipėda Concert Hall 11
Klaipėda Drama Theatre 11
Klaipėda Economic
Development Agency 52
Klaipėda Gym 53
Klaipėda Hostel 16
Klaipėda International
Business Club 52
Klaipėda Municipality 53
Klaipėda Parachute Club 53
Klaipėda Puppet Theatre 11
Klaipėda & Sea Port
Customs 53
Klaipėda State Musical
Theatre 11
Klaipėda State Seaport
Authority 53
Klaipėda Timepiece
Museum 27
Klaipėda Tourist
Information Centre 27
Klaipėda University
Botanical Garden 30
Klaipėdos Mėja 48
Kogas 6
Konica Minolta 53
KPMG 52
Krantas Travel 48
Kubu 16
Kurpiai 23
Kuršis 33
La Clé 19
Lašas Steak House 42
La Terrasse 20
Laukinių Vakarų Salūnas 43
Laumė 34
Leika 23
Liepžiedis 17
Lithuanian Sea Museum 28
Litinterp 15
Litorina 31
Liudvikas Rėza Cultural
Centre 6
Livonia 26
Lūgnė 13
Lūja 19
Magnisima 13
Marginiai 51
Martini 24
Martynas Mažvydas 29
Max Coffee 22
Memel Hotel 13
Memelis 26
Menas ir Kava 22
Metro 26
Miško Namas 32
M. Mažvydas Sculpture
Park 30
Molinis Ąsotis 42
Monument to the Port
Liberators 29
Morena 14
Muitinė 23
Museum of Miniature Arts 6
Naglis 44
National Golf Resort 53
National Hotel 12
Nature Protection
Museum 28
Navalis 19, 22, 52
Nerija 18, 32
Neringa 30
Neringa History Museum 35
Neringa Rent 5
Nida Art Colony 34
Nida Culture & Tourism
Information Centre 5, 22, 31,
33, 34, 36
Nidos Kempingas 33
Nidos Rojus 33
Nidos Seklyčia 34
Nidos Smiltė 32
Nidus 31
Notary Bureau 1 53
Notary Bureau 2 53
Oberhaus 53
Odontologijos Kabinetas 52
Office Day 51
Oktopusas 53
Old Market 50
Old Mill Hotel 14
Old Port Hotel 14
Olympic Casino 24
Omnitel 49
Pajūrio Kempingas 16
Pajūrio Svečių Namai 40
Pajūrio Vieškelis 14
Palanga 38
Palanga Airport 37
Palanga Summer Theatre 44
Palva 14
Palvė 32
Pamario Takas 6
Paradise 26
Park Inn By Radisson
Klaipėda 14
Parko Galerija 11
Pašiūrė 33
Pas Juozą 42
P. Domšaitis Gallery 28
Pėda 11
Photography Gallery 11
Piano Barbecue 42
Pipita 20
Pirklių Namai 15
Pitliaus Skanėstai 22
Port 24
Preliudija 16
Prieplaukos Vyninė 34
Promenada 14
Pušų Paunksnėje 38
Radisson Blu Hotel
Klaipėda 12, 52
Raktas 53
Relax 24
Respublikinė Klaipėdos
Ligoninė 52
Retro Knygos 50
Ridikai 19
Rio Pub 23
Romada 51
Roxy 24
Russian Consulate 52
Ryžių Malūnas 20
Šachmatinė 38
SBA Idėjos Namams 51
Scandlines / Ferry Center 46
Sculpture Park 44
Sea Bridge 44
Sea Rescue Station 40
Seaside Regional Park
Administration 53
SEB 52
Second Ferry Terminal (New
Crossing/Naujoji Smiltynės
Perkėla) 46
Senamiesčio Baras 17
Senasis Uostas 34
Sena Sodyba 34
Senoji Hansa 17, 18
Senoji Vyninė 23
Senukai 51
Simon Dach House 11, 16
Sixt 46
Skandalas 24
Sky 21 Terrace 24
Sportland 51
Sputnik 24
Stalag Luft VI 9
St. John's Church 28
St. Mary's Queen of Peace
Church 28
Stora Antis 21
Submarine 20
Sudintas, Juodys ir
Partneriai 53
Sula 20
Sundial 36
Sushi Express 21
Sushi House 35
Suvenyrų Pasaulis 51
Svetainė 42
Švyturio Menų Dokas 11
Švyturys 28
Švyturys Arena 11
Swedbank 52
TaiFun 21
Taksoma 45
Tamsta 51
Tele2 49
Teniso Aikštynas 44
The Beautiful Land Of
Nevermind 48
Thomas Mann Memorial
Museum 35
Tomasella 51
Topo Centras 49
Tourist Information
Centre 38
Train Station 45
Trapiche Steakhouse 21
Trys Mylimos 18
Turizmo Informacija
Juodkrantėje 5
Ūkio Bankas 52
UPS 49
Vaga 50
Vandens Taxi 31
Vasara 33
Vecekrug 12
Vela Bianca 6
Veloma 51
Vero Cafe 22
Vero Café 40
Vėtra 14
Vila Elvyra 33
Vila Ramybė 40, 43
Vila Simona 33
Vila Vita 5
Vilbra Foto 51
Viva la Vita 19
Vytautas Kernagis 36
West Express 48
XII 24
Yurga 51
Žalias Namas 38
Zigzag 48
Žiogelis 16
Žuvinė 40
Žvejonė 6
Žydroji Liepsna 38
Klaipėda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com