TIMELESS TRADITIONS - Where Milan

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TIMELESS TRADITIONS - Where Milan

Milan

DECEMBER 2010

THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ® ®

wheretraveler.com

TIMELESS

TRADITIONS

CONTAINS

A COMPLETE MAP

OF THE CITY

EDITORS’ CHOICES

OVER 700 ADDRESSES

ABOUT SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT

ENDORSED BY


CONTAINS

A COMPLETE MAP

OF THE CITY

ABOUT SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT

ENDORSED BY

Milan December 2010

the guide

20 SHOPPING

Boutiques & Passion Shops Listings

Major shopping areas and our choice of the

best speciality stores

46 DINING

Dining Listings

Listings by type of cuisine

60 ENTERTAINMENT

Entertainment & Nightlife Listings

The latest information about how to enjoy

your stay in Milan

70 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Museums & Attractions Listings

Major sightseeing attractions plus museums

and events

76 ESSENTIALS

Transport and useful information

Tips for getting around and about in the city

where now

6 Première City

Every year the Opening Night of La Scala reawakens the city’s passion

for music and related events

10 News of the City

A round-up of our favourite choices

12 Tips from Friends

Insider news from Milanese in the know

14 Arts

The new Museo del Novecento and this month’s best exhibitions

16 Entertainment

Christmas markets, music and sport for your holiday enjoyment

18 Dining

In discovery of Panettone, a festive tradition dating back 500 years

78 MAP

Central Milan map

ALSO INSIDE

02 A Note from the Staff

03 A Note from the Mayor

04 Hot Dates

80 10 Things We Love

Milan

DECEMBER 2010

THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ® ®

TIMELESS

TRADITIONS

EDITORS’ CHOICES

OVER 700 ADDRESSES

wheretraveler.com

ON THE COVER

Three of the pastry chefs

from “Pasticceria Pinuccia”

in Arluno, near Milan

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Welcome A Note from the Staff

Festive Follies

This month’s cover is celebratory: the smiling faces of the three artisan pastry

chefs epitomize one of the tastiest Milanese traditions, namely Panettone, Italy’s

traditional winter holiday dessert and a symbol of Milan, invented 500 years

ago (see p. 18). In addition to Panettone, this issue also celebrates the month of

December, a fabulous period to visit the city. This year, the city’s establishment will

be celebrating the beginning of the countdown to the Expo 2015.

But, above all, those of you arriving at the beginning of the month will find the

city buzzing with excitement for the opening night of La Scala Opera House, on

7 December, the day commemorating Sant’Ambrogio, the patron saint of the

city of Milan. In Milan, 7, 8 and 25 December are holidays. Before visiting shops,

attractions or businesses on these days, be sure to check whether they are open.

From 4 to 8 December, you can enjoy one of Milan’s most folkloristic traditions:

the “Oh bej, oh bej” open Christmas market (see p. 16).

However, throughout the whole month of December, Milan is pervaded by a

magical atmosphere: traditional music, Christmas trees, decorations in the piazzas

and, naturally, streets illuminated with a myriad of festive lights. Additionally,

during the month of December, shops tend to stay open at lunch and on

Sundays. Don’t miss the Led Festival, a month-long festival using energy efficient

LED lights to light up several of the city’s most notable venues (see p.10).

Be sure to also keep an eye on the restaurant scene. In December, several

venues offer special menus, particularly when it

comes to celebrating New Year’s Eve, known in

Italy as “Veglione di Capodanno”.

Last but not least, we wanted to celebrate

an editorial insider happening with our readers:

Mr. William S. Morris III, President of Morris

Communications and international Publisher of

Where, together with Chris Manning, Publisher

of Where London, helped Where Milan’s editorial

staff to pick the picture for the cover.

The whole team is in the photo, to wish you

Happy Holidays.

On November 5, at the Town Hall,

Letizia Moratti, Mayor of Milan,

receives the first issue of Where Milan

from William S. Morris III. With them:

Manfredi Palmeri, President of the

City Council and Andrea Jarach.

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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WHERE MILAN

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PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach

andrea.jarach@wheremilan.com

EDITORIAL (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL)

MANAGING DIRECTOR PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE

Daniele Misrachi

EDITORIAL COORDINATION

Alessandra Finzi

MANAGING EDITOR

Elena Binda

MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF

Carey Bernitz, Patrizia Masnini, Roberta Patruno

WEB EDITORIAL STAFF

Elena Peverata (www.wheretraveler.com),

Alessia Genovese (www.wheremilan.com)

DESIGNER

Elisabetta Giudici

CONTRIBUTORS & CONSULTANTS

Valentina Bonelli, Sabrina Ciccolo, Maria Grazia

Gargioni, Francesca De Ponti, Marco Gatti (Dining),

Andrea Host-Ivessich (Lifestyle), Joy Lacanlale, Andrea

Milanesi (Entertainment), Carol Oberman, Susanna

Ricci, David Ross (Hotelerie)

MARKETING, ADVERTISING & HOTEL PR SERVICES

Isa Faleschini, Maria Granata, Stefania Guttuso,

Marta Mailhac, Brian Norsa, Rachele Renna

ADMINISTRATION

Katia Greto

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,

SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

Paola Grilli

REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010

WHERE ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH

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CHAIRMAN & CEO

William S. Morris III

PRESIDENT

William S. Morris IV

MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE

Chris Manning

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the

information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any

consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications,

a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LLC, 725 Broad St.,

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WHERE MILAN supports

Published in association with

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trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

ENDORSED BY

2 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


A Note from the Mayor

I am pleased to personally welcome the readers of “Where” to Milan. A city whose

cultural offer grows richer with the passing of each year, the aim being to integrate art into

city life, thus creating new opportunities not only for those who live here but also for those

who are visiting the city for just one day.

On 6 December, Milan’s cultural life will be enriched by the opening of a new exhibition

centre, the Museo del Novecento, representing the essence of Milan’s artistic and cultural

heritage during the last century. Over 400 masterpieces, including “Neon” by Lucio

Fontana, visible from Piazza Duomo and “Il Quarto Stato” by Giuseppe Pellizza da

Volpedo will be on display at the recently renovated Palazzo dell’Arengario.

A section of the Museum will also be dedicated to international Avant-garde artists of

the calibre of Picasso, Braque, Klee, Kandinskij, Laurens and Modigliani. Additionally, an entire room will be given over to

the Futurist experience. Also on exhibit are monographs by De Chirico, Morandi, Martini and Melotti. On the third floor,

visitors will find a room hosting paintings by Burri and artworks by the major Italian masters of the 50s and 60s (Vedova,

Capogrossi, Novelli, Tancredi, Accardi).

From 6 December to February 2011, admission will be free of charge. Other on-site facilities include a friendly bookshop

and a charming restaurant offering one of the best panoramic views over the city.

You can also visit the Cenacolo Vinciano (Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper), the Ambrosian Library, the Brera Picture Gallery,

the Castello Sforzesco and the Duomo. Milan also offers a number of highly contemporary venues such as the Triennale, a

temple of national and international design and the Museo della Moda, a symbol of Milanese creativity.

I look forward to seeing you.

Best regards

Highlight

“Over the Under”

Concept by Monica Nascimbeni, Gisella Borioli and Matteo Donini

– LETIZIA MORATTI

Sindaco di Milano

“Over the Under” is an open air exhibition of cast-iron manhole art. The initiative is the result of a collaboration between

Via Montenapoleone (the most famous fashion-street in the world), art patron METROWEB (Milanese owner of the largest

metropolitan network of dark fibres in Europe) and five international urban artists: Shepard Fairey (New York), Flying

Fortress (Berlin), Rendo (Milan), The London Police (London), Space Invader (Paris). They will participate in the on road

exhibition until December 2011. An interdisciplinary project that connects major international cities of street art to Milan,

a city projected towards Expo 2015. A perfect gift to the international visitor in Milan, and a taste of the marvels to come.

www.wheretraveler.com 3


Hot Dates December 2010

THIS MONTH IN MILAN

SATURDAY

4

Lighting of

the giant

sparkling,

Christmas tree in

piazza Duomo.

Beneath the tree,

visitors will also

have a chance to

admire the just as

sparkly pop-up

Shop opened by

Tiffany for the

festive season.

THURSDAY

2

SATURDAY

4

SUNDAY

5

MONDAY

6

TUESDAY

7

WEDNESDAY

8

JAMES HANSEN At 6.30pm at the Rotonda della

Besana (see listings), NASA’s astrophysicist and climatologist

will speak at a conference within the ambit of

the exhibition, 2050. The planet needs you.

CHRISTMAS BROWSING Don’t miss the stalls of

the traditional “Oh Bej Oh Bej” Christmas market

near the Castello Sforzesco. Until Wednesday

8 December (p. 16)

QUEEN OF POP Last evening to see international

popstar Lady Gaga performing in her “Monster Ball

Tour” at the Mediolanum Forum di Assago. Be sure

to check out her Milanese outfit!

MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO The eagerly awaited

inauguration of a new exhibition centre designed to

host the best 20th century artists, Italian and not

only, at Palazzo dell’Arengario.

PREMIERE Milan will be buzzing with holiday

excitement in anticipation of the opening night at

La Scala Opera House regularly attended by the

cream of Milanese society and VIPs.

FOOTBALL FERVOUR A public holiday in Italy,

Milan will come to a standstill to watch the eagerly

awaited football match of the month: Milan-Ajax,

at the Meazza Stadium.

MONDAY

13

TUESDAY

14

THURSDAY

16

SATURDAY

18

WEDNESDAY

22

SATURDAY

25

THANK YOU FOR THE MUSIC Sing along with

the Soweto Gospel Choir at Teatro Manzoni or

enjoy the sounds of the Voca People performing

at Teatro Dal Verme.

ITALIAN MUSICAL The show inspired by the

most famous novel in Italian literature, “I promessi

sposi” by Alessandro Manzoni, will debut at the

Teatro degli Arcimboldi.

RUNNERS FROM MARS The “Podisti da Marte”

race will leave from Piazza Castello at 7 pm: the aim

of this peaceful invasion is to raise funds for charity.

The runners will be dressed as Father Christmas.

MATISSE Last weekend to admire the graphic

works by Matisse at the Scuderie del Castello

Visconteo in Pavia (40 km from Milan): 80 works

on paper and a book, “Jazz”.

AUGUSTE RODIN An exhibition of 65 sculptures

and 19 “never-seen-before” paintings is scheduled to

be held in Legnano (30 km north of Milan) at Palazzo

Leone da Perego. Until 20 March 2011.

MERRY CHRISTMAS Today is one of the most

joyful religious holidays in Italy! Please note:

almost everything will be closed, museums

included.

18 6

2

4 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


MILANO Via Montenapoleone 27/E Tel 02 76006437 800 012022

AN ENDURING PASSION FOR FABRIC AND INNOVATION SINCE 1910

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where now

Milan

The month’s top entertainment, dining and arts

»

FOCUS

Première City

Visiting Milan in December means

encountering a city in top form:

buzzing with anticipation for the opening

of La Scala opera house the cultural and

social heart of the city, but also blazing

with lights and awash with a myriad

of fun things to see and do

On 7 December, a holiday dedicated to the city’s

patron saint, Milan stages one of its most appealing

international events: the opening of the ballet and

opera season at the famed La Scala opera house.

For months, this temple of music, which offers the

best of opera, chamber music and ballet, prepares

for the opening of the season with everything being

kept under wraps until the very last moment. The

night is regularly attended by the cream of Milanese

society, captains of Italian industry and heads of

government, including the President of the Republic,

to whom the orchestra renders homage by playing

the national anthem before the curtain goes up.

Amidst art, glamour and history here’s everything

that you need to enjoy the festivities.

ARMANI BILL-BOARD, VIA CUSANI, BRERA DISTRICT - PHOTO © DE LUNA

PHOTO © MARCO BRESCIA. TEATRO ALLA SCALA

6 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


A Never-ending Love Affair

The original program of the concert

conducted by Arturo Toscanini, marking

the reopening of La Scala after bombing

during the Second World War

On 7 December the new season at

the opera house will open with Die

Walküre by Richard Wagner (until

2 January, www.teatroallascala.

org). This year’s curtain raiser will

be conducted by Argentine-born

Israeli, Daniel Barenboim. On

16 December, Nureyev’s historic

version of Tchaikovsky’s best-loved

ballet, Swan Lake, returns to La

Scala after nearly ten years. The

opening night will feature guest

appearances by Alina Somova and

Leonid Sarafanov, direct from the

Mariinskij Theatre St. Petersburg.

• December is the perfect month

to enjoy the festive spirit that

surrounds Milan and La Scala

whose elegant neoclassical façade,

lit up by Christmas lights, is the

epitome of Italian-style theatres

throughout the world. Since the

end of the 18th century, most

of Italy’s greatest operatic artists,

and many of the finest singers,

conductors and dancers from

other nations, too, have appeared

at La Scala which boasts as many as

280 performances a year. These

include singers of the calibre of

Beniamino Gigli, Maria Callas and

her great rival, Renata Tebaldi;

famous conductors such as Arturo

Toscanini or Claudio Abbado; stage

set designers such as Luchino

Visconti or Giorgio Strehler and

dancers of world-class fame such

as Rudolf Nureyev and Carla Fracci.

• La Scala has always been

extremely dear to the Milanese.

In fact, following severe damage

by bombing during the Second

World War, it was the citizens

who contributed to its timely

reconstruction. When it reopened

on 11 May 1946, with a memorable

concert conducted by Arturo

Toscanini, it became a symbol

of Italy’s newly found freedom.

The air of excitement that

surrounds La Scala is apparent

with its comings and goings

of artists, fans, and tourists in

search of souvenir photos. Don’t

be surprised if you see people

queuing up early, these are the

so-called “loggionisti”, hardened

melomaniacs in search of a ticket

in the “loggione”, the area in which

seats cost less.

• But Milan’s love affair with music

has left various traces throughout

the city, and not only in the most

obvious places. Did you know

what Giuseppe Verdi defined as

“my best work”“? It was neither

Nabucco nor Aida. The famous

composer (1813-1901) believed that

his best work was the rest home he

founded for retired opera singers

and musicians. Verdi is buried there

in a crypt that can be visited from

8.30am-6pm (www.casaverdi.org).

Another famous musician and

conductor, Arturo Toscanini (1867-

1957), is buried with full honours at

the Cimitero Monumentale (see

p. 70). Unfortunately, the house

where he lived never became a

museum: it can only be admired

from the outside, in via Durini 20,

not far from La Scala.

www.wheretraveler.com 7


WHERE NOW City Name

FOR ADDICTS ONLY

LA SCALA MUSEUM

Arturo Toscanini’s baton, Mozart and Puccini’s

hair, Verdi’s death mask and other relics.

Portraits of Enrico Caruso, Maria Callas,

Renata Tebaldi, Leyla Gencer and Rudolf

Nureyev. A real hall of fame reflecting all

the famous composers, singers, conductors

and dancers who, for two centuries,

have graced the stage of the opera house.

For 5 euros you can purchase a ticket that

will allow you to go backstage or admire the theatre from the most exclusive

boxes. Museo Teatrale alla Scala, adjacent to the theatre, (www.teatroallascala.org,

T: 02 88792473).

LA SCALA SHOP

La Scala Shop (found inside the theatre and

open daily from 10.30 am-7.30 pm and in the

evening for spectators only, www.lascalashop.

it) offers a vast assortment of cds, dvds, books

on music and ballet and numerous collectors’

items, such as the classical opera glasses

(in the photo) which add an air of old-style

chic to your outfit. And since La Scala is an

internationally known brand, its line of merchandise ranges from T-shirts to

umbrellas, from mugs to stationery.

Highlights of the Season

Must-see operas are: Cavalleria rusticana by Mascagni

and Pagliacci by Leoncavallo, conducted by Daniel

Harding (January-February 2011); Die Zauberflöte by

Mozart staged by the South African artist William

Kentridge (March-April 2011) and Robert Wilson’s

production of Il ritorno di Ulisse in patria by Monteverdi

(September 2011). Puccini’s Tosca will be conducted

by the Russian, Valery Gergiev (February-March 2011)

and star Jonas Kaufman. The superstar tenor, Juan

Diego Florez, will perform in Rossini’s La donna del lago

(October-November 2011) while Joyce Di Donato

will debut at La Scala in Der Rosenkavalier by Strauss

(October 2011). The concert season will include a

number of famous conductors: the Bolivian, Gustavo

Dudamel, the Russian, Yuri Temirkanov and the

Italian, Daniele Gatti. “Popstar” of the piano Lang Lang

and the Vienna Philharmonic are also on this year’s

program. An absolute rarity of European theatre, the

ballet Raymonda by Petipa is scheduled for October-

November 2011. Also coming is Histoire de Manon

(January-February 2011) featuring the stunning Italian

star Roberto Bolle, who will also dance in Jewels (May

2011) by George Balanchine. Another “not-to-bemissed”

performance is the Galà des Étoiles (April 2011).

DINING

AT THE THEATRE

This is the trend of the moment:

sipping a pre-theatre aperitivo at

the recently opened Il Marchesino

(see p. 47), located just beneath La

Scala and run by the award-winning

chef, Gualtiero Marchesi. In addition

to refined fingerfood, a “must-try”

delicacy is the bowl of risotto alla

milanese served in a steaming

silver cauldron. It also offers an

“After-Scala” menu, adapted to the

times of the performances. Please

note that the venue closes for the

holidays from 1 to 6 January.

THEATRE WATCHING

The two Michelin-starred Trussardi

alla Scala (see p.47) whose name

designates its link with the temple of

opera is renowned for its high quality

cuisine. Its chef, Andrea Berton is one

of the key representatives of Italian

cuisine and its design is in perfect

keeping with the understated

elegance of the Trussardi fashion

brand. The perfect place for VIP

watching on opening night.

IN MEMORY OF VERDI

Dining at one of the tables where

Giuseppe Verdi composed Othello

and Falstaff is an emotion that can

be experienced at Don Carlos (see

p. 46). The restaurant is located in

the hotel where Verdi spent the last

years of his life. The Milanese will be

able to tell you a lot of anecdotes

about Verdi: the time when the

exultant crowd unbridled the

horses from Verdi’s carriage, which

they then carried to the restaurant

or when the Maestro accompanied

by the tenor, Tamagno, leaned

over his balcony to greet the

elated crowds below and gave

an impromptu performance. Or,

finally, the moving story regarding

the last agonizing days of Verdi’s

life when the citizens of Milan

covered the street with their capes

so that the noise of the passing

carriages would not disturb the

composer on his death bed.

JUST A SNACK

During the Première, a new

catering service will be available

in the foyer: for information and

reservations visit www.caffescala.it.

8 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


SHOPPING

A DANCE-FASHION COMBO

Technical clothing for ballerinas

or wannabes but also garments

“borrowed” from the world of dance

for a metropolitan look with a touch

of poetry: pumps, ultra-feminine

body-suits and elegant georgette

mini-skirts. It is not mere chance that

the shops selling a combination of

dance and fashion apparel are all

located just a short distance from

La Scala. These include Porselli, an

historic Italian brand, situated right

next to the performers’ entrance;

and Freddy (at JDC in Piazza del

Duomo) and Dimensione Danza

(corso Europa 2).

Fashion

You have just received a surprise invitation to the opening night at La Scala

and you don’t have anything to wear. No problem: remember you are in the

fashion capital of the world! Finding a red carpet look by the evening is as

easy as pie. Just 600 metres from the entrance of the famed opera house, you

will find the “Quadrilatero della Moda” the largest luxury fashion district in the

world. A stroll along via Montenapoleone or via della Spiga will present you

with one famous designer label after another. If, on the contrary, you would

prefer not to purchase but rather hire an outfit for an evening, your best bet is

La Nuova Sartoria (via A. Aleardi 14, www.lanuovasartoria.it), a historic venue

for everything related to the performing arts, founded for just this reason. Here

you can find evening gowns and dinner jackets in all sizes. An oddity: the atelier

was owned by the family of Franca Rame, wife of Nobel Prize winner, Dario Fo.

As for cosmetics, the city of runways offers a myriad of solutions one of the most

famed being Diego Dalla Palma, a make-up artist of international repute whose

studio is located in via Madonnina 15 (T: 02 876818). Now for jewellery: Bijoux

de Paris, in via Manzoni 12 (located, surprise, surprise just a short distance from

La Scala) offers fabulous pieces of costume jewellery that look like the real thing.

Established in1953, it has solved the problems of innumerable Milanese ladies. To

reach the theatre in a chauffeur-driven car, in addition to all the international car

hire services with drivers, you can contact Davide Guerrera Autoservizi (www.

davideguerrera), renowned for their courtesy and helpful last-minute solutions.

His drivers speak English. Finally, if you intend to complete the whole with a regal

gesture by throwing flowers at the feet of your favourite soprano, remember that

the only florist that stays open 7 days a week is Monceau Fleur (see p. 77).

STOCKING UP ON MUSIC

Ricordi Media Store, in Galleria

Vittorio Emanuele II, is the largest

shop affiliated with the historic

record label famous for its operatic

recordings. Bottega Discantica,

in via Nirone 5, is a traditional

meeting point for musicians and

musicologists, selling rare editions.

Stradivarius, though situated on

the other side of the city from La

Scala, in via Caretta 3, is definitely

worth a visit for those in search of

niche products. Finally for those

who enjoy reading, the Libreria

dello Spettacolo (via Terraggio 11,

Cadorna area) offers a vast choice of

books dedicated to music and dance

(for everyone: see listings).

• TICKETS

Tickets for La Scala are highly

sought after and hard to find.

The good news is that most

of the best hotels have a set

number for their customers.

Should you wish to attend a

performance, your best move

is to speak to your concierge.

Furthermore, bear in mind

that La Scala generally offers

an open-air screening of the

premiere in the Galleria,

next to the Duomo.

www.wheretraveler.com 9


WHERE NOW Milan

FOCUS

News

of the City

Milan is a shopper’s

paradise and whether

you enjoy browsing

cutting-edge shops or

major department stores,

you’re bound to find just

what you’re looking for

(plus a few extra bits

as well)

TIME TECH

If, since you were a child, you have dreamt

of owning a wristwatch that contains

everything but the kitchen stove then your

dream has come true: this singular object

is on sale at Cielo, one of the oldest

jewellery and watchmakers in Milan in

piazza Duomo 21 or in piazza Cadorna 11,

right in front of the Malpensa Express exit.

For just 300 euros, this object phones, takes

photographs, screens videos, records on a

micro sd, reproduces mp3 music etc.

An unforgettable gift but also a way of

indulging a whim that is sure to astound

both friends and family.

LED FESTIVAL

Via Montenapoleone will be lit up with a moving, nature-inspired rendering by Matteo Thun (see p. 22).

The decorations and artistic luminous installations will not be reserved for commercial areas alone but

will also be used to adorn a number of other monuments in Milan, including the access roads to the city

and the skyscrapers that are currently sprouting up all over the city. In short, a feast for both the eyes

and the soul. Last year Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II featured an amazing example (shown in the photo

above). www.comune.milano.it/led

MARATHON CITY

If you are an avid urban runner then don’t miss Milan’s two most important

Marathon dates – the Stramilano on 27 March (www.stramilano.it) and the

City Marathon on 10 April (www.milanocitymarathon.gazzetta.it/home.shtml).

Registrations are now open. Thousands of running aficionados have compared

the Milanese events with the legendary New York Marathon. To start preparing

both mentally and physically, one place to stay is Milan’s first Jogging Hotel,

the Best Western Astoria, located near to several of Milan’s green areas (viale

Murillo, 9) and equipped to satisfy the every need of the urban runner. Some of

the best places to train are: Montestella,

Parco Sempione (Where Map D/E-3/4), the San Siro Hippodrome

and the Parco di Trenno. Never forget to wear a reflective vest,

unfortunately Milanese drivers sometimes miss to respect

the speed limits. Finally, for runners, Vibram proposes its

internationally reputed FiveFingers that adapt to the shape

of any foot. Made from the softest kangaroo leather and

available in a festive red colour, they also feature non-slip

grooves. Vibram’s FiveFingers retail at a price of 110 euros

(see p. 45).

10 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Concierge Corner

STYLISH GARDEN LOUNGE

A place to socialize and meet friends. Situated in the heart of Milan, the H-Club Diana enjoys a privileged

position on the ground floor of the Sheraton Diana Majestic hotel, overlooking a private garden. An

ultra-glam bar and “the” place to be after a long day at work. You can enjoy a typically Milanese aperitivo

or an after dinner cocktail in a trendy atmosphere brimming with beautiful people. Open all year round.

Aperitivo: every evening from 07.30pm to 10.30pm (Tues, Wed and Thurs live music). After Dinner: every

evening from 10.00pm to 00.30am (Thurs and Sat dj set). Brunch: Sat and Sun from 12.30pm to 2.30pm.

www.sheratondianamajestic.com. Viale Piave 42. T: 02 20581

Each month Milan’s top concierge share

their tips on making the most of your

stay in the city.

This month: ANDRE VENDRAMEL

of the Carlton Hotel Baglioni.

TRAVELING LIGHT

We could use lots of technical jargon to describe

this satchel computer trolley. In actual fact,

you only need to see it and touch it at one of

Piquadro’s sales outlets in order to be totally

smitten – it’s absolutely stunning. The satchel

(also available in mahogany, orange and black) is

priced at 606 euros (see p. 42).

FUNKY TIMEPIECES

Missoni’s trademark of using a variety of fabrics

in various colours and patterns such as stripes,

geometrics and abstract florals is combined with

ToyWatch’s chronographs to create some limited

edition pieces. Six models are available, with three

colours each, paired with the funny foulard strap

or with the more classic fabric strap with leather

buckles. Only 250 pieces are produced per model.

The Toywatch retails at 380 euros and the new line

will be sold at Missoni and Toywatch boutique

stores, starting from December 2010.

CHOCOLATE BLISS

Do you want to make a big time impression on your date? Compel your business partner to

agree to all your proposals? Now there’s a new secret place in Milan that is guaranteed to make

your guests salivate. It’s the Chocolate Room at the Four Seasons Hotel in Milan (via Gesù, 8).

This room is the amazing creation of Pastry Chef, Graziano Bistoletti, under the directorship of

world-renowned chef, Sergio Mei. The Chocolate Room is decorated with chocolate walls and

paintings and resembles an art gallery brimming with delicious treats: from bowls of melted

chocolate to chocolate

sweets and desserts of all

shapes and sizes. A perfect

example of multi-sensorial

communication! The

editors of Where, expert

connoisseurs, by profession,

of every type of culinary

delicacy, could not hide their

amazement on 4 November

at the dinner organized

by Sergio Mei, directly in

the kitchen of the hotel, to

celebrate the launch of the

first issue of Where Milan.

Visitors will have the privilege of living a pure

shopping experience in Via della Spiga, just

around the corner from Via Montenapoleone,

Milan’s most fashionable street, featuring

all of Italy’s most prestigious fashion brands

and exclusive designer boutiques. Famed

as Italy’s fashion capital, Milan is also rich

in art & culture: the Duomo, the Church of

Santa Maria delle Grazie hosting Leonardo’s

famous Last Supper and the Sforzesco Castle

are just a few of Milan’s jewels.

For those who feel like taking a trip out of

town, the ideal place to spend a relaxing

day is the City of Como, located just a short

distance from Milan. A “not-to-be-missed”

experience with its beautiful lake and artistic

and architectural treasures.

However, besides shopping Milan has a

myriad of other attractions. I, personally,

would suggest visiting the Museo Bagatti

Valsecchi, one of the finest museum-homes

in the whole of Europe, where visitors can

admire all the beauty of a private house

furnished with Renaissance masterpieces.

Last but not least, La Scala opera house

is a “must” for opera buffs and, naturally,

a visit to the Duomo, should also be top

of your list.

www.wheretraveler.com 11


FOCUS

Tips from

Friends

Each month Milanese

friends of Where share

their favourite haunts

with our readers.

Be sure to check out this

insider information

From Guglielmo Miani,

fashion entrepreneur

Guglielmo Miani, president of the Associazione di via

Montenapoleone, has given new impetus to Milan’s most

fashionable street. The first signs, from which we will all

benefit, are the events promoted by Miani which have

involved thousands of people and which will be repeated

on a yearly basis. One such initiative is “La Vendemmia di

Via Montenapoleone” which transforms in October the

boutiques on the street into wine cellars.

For the citizens of Milan, Miani

means luxury tailoring since 1922.

The Larusmiani Concept Boutique,

situated in the heart of Milan in Via

Montenapoleone 7, was conceived

as a space dedicated to the discovery

of the values of elegance, passion for

quality and exclusivity. Visitors are

taken on an unforgettable shopping

trip amidst noble fabrics, antique

timepieces and even rare books.

But it is the sartorial experience

that will remain impressed on your

Men department unique fabric display

minds as you are taken into the world

of made-to-measure, where master tailors can personalize suits in a multitude of ways.

Guglielmo will accompany you through spacious, comfortable fitting rooms the size of

hotel suites, some of which even have a private bathroom, in a contemporary setting

that expresses Larusmiani’s values to the full, with meticulous attention given to details

that are the Maison’s own. The three floors of the Boutique are connected by a majestic

staircase featuring a 12 metre high fountain that is a triumph of marble, or a lift lined

entirely in velvet. What suggestions does Guglielmo have for the readers of Where? “First

and foremost, a visit to one of my favourite places, namely Palazzo Morando, situated in via

Sant Andrea, which often hosts temporary exhibitions and events. When it comes to food,

I would suggest La Latteria San Marco (via San Marco, 24. T: 02 6597653). It reminds me of

a house and of the dishes that my mother and grandmother used to serve. Finally, I would

strongly advise a stroll down via Montenapoleone where, in addition to the shops, you can

peep into some of the most beautiful courtyards in the world. And, in December, a simply

“not-to-be-missed” sight is the luminous installation designed by my friend Matteo Thun”.

From Alessandra Montrucchio, art director

Portinari Chapel, Sant’Eustorgio, Piazza Sant’Eustorgio

Mr. Pigello Portinari, a trustee of the Medici Bank in Milan during the second half of the 15th

century, decided that he would like to bring a touch of Florentine style to his city of adoption.

Hence the construction of the elegant chapel featuring some of the best frescoes ever painted

by Vincenzo Foppa. “The angels on the dome are as light and ethereal as those painted by

Melozzo and, together with the architecture influenced by Alberti, contribute to giving a feeling

of peace and harmony even in a chaotic city like Milan, thus giving myself and my friends the

illusion of actually being in a Florentine Renaissance courtyard.”

12 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


WHERE NOW Milan

»ARTS

Several futuristic

works of art

on display at

the Museo del

Novecento in

Piazza Duomo

WELCOMING THE

TWENTIETH CENTURY

A new Twentieth Century Museum in the heart of

Milan, in piazza Duomo: extending over 4,000 sqm.,

the museum displays more than 400 masterpieces.

From 6 December until February 2011, admission

will be free. Picasso, Braque, Klee and Kandinsky but,

above all, the Italians Modigliani, Boccioni, De Chirico,

Morandi, Fontana and Burri and many others besides:

an imposing catalogue which visitors can admire in

the recently renovated Palazzo dell’Arengario, a

true work of 1930s architectural genius. The museum

also has a bookshop, a restaurant and a screening

room. Museo del Novecento, piazza Duomo. Mon

2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed-Fri-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm;

Thurs-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm.

www.museodelnovecento.org

ISLAMIC ART

An exhibition of Islamic artworks entitled “Al-Fann.

The Art of Islamic Civilization”, has been mounted

in the city of Milan. Set to run until 30 January

2011, the event – the first of its kind in Europe – is

held at the city’s Palazzo Reale and features more

than 350 works from the private collection of the

Emir of Kuwait. One thousand years of history

includes ornamental friezes, samples of handwriting,

arabesques, decorations, ceramics and sculptures,

tapestries, carpets, jewellery and chiselled metals.

Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues, Wed, Fri and Sun

9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm.

Tickets: €9. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 92800375.

www.arteislamica.it

BRASILIA, 50 YEARS LATER

The Triennale, Milan’s

temple of architecture

and design, celebrates

the capital of Brazil, a

singular, urban experiment,

designed in an arbitrary

fashion and based on the

idea of the “ideal city”

with an exhibition entitled

“Brasilia. Utopia Realized.

1960-2010”. Unpublished

drawings and documents

regarding the work of architect Oscar Niemeyer and his partners. Until 23 January

2011. Open Tues, Wed, Sat, Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Thurs and Fri 10.30am-11pm.

Tickets: €4. Viale Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. www.triennale.org

Everything you (don’t) want to see

War, disease, exploitation, pollution, nonconformist

sexual practices and violence:

“Disquieting Images” on display at the

Triennale features the works of a number

of artists whose photos share a decidedly

critical outlook and have a visceral

impact. Minors under the age of 14 are

not admitted.

Until 9 January 2011. Sat-Sun-Tues-Wed

10.30am - 8.30pm; Thursday and Friday 10.30am-11pm. Viale Alemagna, 6.

T: 02 724341. www.triennale.org

MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO: PHOTO BY GIANNI CONGIU. BRASILIA: PHOTO BY IVAN BAAN. TRIENNALE: PHOTO BY ELENA DORFMAN.

14 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


INDESTRUCTIBLE

ICONS

SPAZIO FORMA: PHOTO BY HERB RITTS 1987. VILLA PANZA: PHOTO BY EMIL FRAY. PALAZZO BAGATTI VALSECCHI: PHOTO BY YOICHI OHIRA, BELLINI-PEZZOLI COLLECTION. FEDERICO SOLMI, JEROME ZODO CONTEMPORARY.

The icon of rock in 70 portraits taken by

famous photographers including Peter

Lindbergh, David Montgomery, Robert

Whitaker and Bryan Adams. “Mick Jagger.

The photobook” from 2 December to 20

February 2011 at Spazio Forma, the Milanese

sanctum of photographic art. Tues-Wed-

Sat-Sun 10am-8pm; Thurs-Fri 10am-10pm.

Tickets €7.50. Piazza Tito Lucrezio Caro, 1.

www.formafoto.it

RAUSCHENBERG’S “GLUTS”

Villa Panza, a seventeenth century

residence located just half an hour from

Milan and converted into a museum of

contemporary art by the philanthropist

Giuseppe Panza, is hosting a fabulous

exhibition dedicated to Robert

Rauschenberg, the explosive American

artist of the ‘50s. “Gluts” is organized

by FAI (National Heritage Foundation) in

collaboration with the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation in New York, the Peggy

Guggenheim Collection in Venice and the Robert Rauschenberg Estate of New York.

Situated 40 km from the centre of Milan, the villa alone is worth a visit at any time of

year: Varese, Piazza Litta 1. T: 0332 283960. www.fondoambiente.it

A “CONFEDERACY OF VILLAINS”

IN MILAN?

Federico Solmi is a young (b.1973) Italian artist who

lives and works in New York. His work is currently being

featured at the Santa Fe Biennal. His installations,

composed of different media such as video, drawings,

mechanical sculptures and paintings, are recognized

for their bitingly ironic portrayal of present day society.

Milan pays tribute to the artist with the exhibition “A

Confederacy of Villains” inspired by the novel by John

Kennedy Tool, A Confederacy of Dunces. Until 11

December. Open Tues-Sat, 10am-7pm. Via Lambro 7,

Milano. T: 02 20241935. www.jerome-zodo.com

Artistic

Entertainment

Two exhibitions, one idea:

technology as an art form.

On exhibition for the first

time under one roof, Palazzo

della Ragione will host all the

works painted by Caravaggio

in digital form: “Caravaggio.

An Impossible Exhibition”.

Until 13 February 2011.

Tickets: €8. Piazza dei Mercanti,

1. T: 02 72003358. www.

mostreimpossibili.rai.it

At Castello di Vigevano (40

km from the centre of Milan),

thanks to sophisticated

interactive and digital

tools, you can become the

“thirteenth apostle” at

Leonardo’s Last Supper. Until 1

May 2011. T: 02 43353522. www.

leonardovigevano.it

AND MORE …

CODEX ATLANTICUS The fifth part of an

exhibition in 24 instalments: Leonardo’s

machines at the Ambrosiana until 12 December.

www.ambrosiana.eu. Piazza Pio XI, 2.

T: 02 806921.

GABRIELE BASILICO. ISTANBUL

30 unpublished pictures at Palazzo delle

Stelline until 13 December. Closed on Mondays.

Tickets € 4. www.stelline.it. Corso Magenta 61.

T: 02 45462411.

JOHN BALDESSARRI. THE GIACOMETTI

VARIATIONS Installation featuring 9 sculptures

at Fondazione Prada until 26 December.

Free admission. www.fondazioneprada.org.

Via Fogazzaro, 36. T: 02 54670515.

SACRED LOMBARD ART. FROM THE TIME OF

THE BORROMEO FAMILY TO SYMBOLISM

Three centuries of sacred art at Palazzo Reale

until 6 January 2011. Tickets: €9. www.comune.

milano.it/palazzoreale. Piazza Duomo, 12.

T: 02 92800375.

THE ARTIST, THE POET Works from the historic

Resistance period at Palazzo della Permanente

until 9 January. Ticket €5. www.lapermanentemilano.it.

Via Filippo Turati, 34. T: 02 6551445.

ARTISTS AND DESIGNERS OF GLASS 1960-

2010 At Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi until 1

January. Closed 7-8 and 25-26 December. Tickets:

€8. www.museobagattivalsecchi.org. Via Gesù, 5.

T: 02 76006132 (see photo above).

SALVADOR DALÍ. THE APPROACHING

DREAM 50 works exploring the Master of

Surrealism’s relationship with landscape, dream

and desire at Palazzo Reale until 31 January

2011. €9. www. comune.milano.it/palazzoreale.

Piazza Duomo, 12 .T: 02 54913.

CIURLIONIS. AN ESOTERIC JOURNEY

Retrospective of works by the Lithuanian artist

M.K. Ciurlionis at Palazzo Reale until 6 February

2011. €8. www.mostraciurlionis.it. Piazza Duomo,

12. T: 02 54918.

BOTTICELLI IN THE LOMBARD COLLECTIONS

Several important works by the Renaissance

master at Museo Poldi Pezzoli until 28 February

2011. Tickets: €8. www.museopoldipezzoli.it.

Via Manzoni, 12. T:02 794889.

MATISSE. GRAPHIC MASTERPIECES

80 graphic works at the Scuderie del Castello

Visconteo in Pavia (40 km from Milan) until 19

December. Tickets: €6. www.scuderiepavia.com.

Viale XI Febbraio, 35. T: 0382 538932.

www.wheretraveler.com 15


WHERE NOW Milan

ENTERTAINMENT

CLASSIC/JAZZ

THE GOLDBERG VARIATIONS

On 21 December the fabled Hungarian pianist,

András Schiff will return to the Conservatory’s

Sala Verdi to interpret one of the greatest

masterpieces in the history of keyboard music:

the Goldberg Variations by Johann Sebastian

Bach. www.quartettomilano.it

“OH BEJ, OH BEJ” CHRISTMAS MARKET

In Milanese dialect, “Oh bej, Oh bej!” is an exclamation resembling

something like “Wow!” An exclamation that you are likely to repeat as

you browse through the stalls of this historic market selling everything

from antiques to gifts to food: just think, the fair has been going strong

since 1510! The stalls are located around the Castello (Foro Bonaparte)

from 4 to 8 December.

MILAN-AJAX, THE RETURN

Following the away

match (disputed in

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MR SCHUMANN

Accompanied by the pianist, Henri Sigfridsson,

from 9 to 12 December, the British conductor,

Sir Neville Marriner will commemorate Robert

Schumann, 200 years after his birth, with a

concert dedicated entirely to the composer.

The event will be staged at the Auditorium

di Milano in Largo Mahler. www.laverdi.org

APERITIVO IN CONCERTO

Not only classical music in the city of La Scala:

the “Aperitivo in concerto” event offers a jazz

aperitivo on the first Sunday of every month.

On 5 December, at 11am, the Teatro Manzoni

will host the eclectic American musician,

Travis Sullivan with his Björkestra, a twenty

piece jazz orchestra that recreates the work of

Björk. Guest of honour at the event will be the

famous trumpeter, Dave Douglas .

www.aperitivoinconcerto.com

ITALIAN SINGERS

THE SCHOOL OF “CANTAUTORI”

“Cantautore” is an untranslatable word basically

meaning “singer” and “songwriter”. Considered

by many as contemporary poets, some of the

most famous of the past thirty years include

Lucio Dalla and Francesco De Gregori. Each

boasting formidable careers and different

repertoires, they have teamed up and are

now playing together in a series of concerts

in Italy. Even if you don’t understand Italian,

their lyrics are a poetic experience. Tickets for

their Duemiladieci Work in Progress tour can be

purchased from ticketone www.ticketone.it

Amsterdam with a

1-1 draw), football

fans are eagerly

awaiting the home

match of the

UEFA Champions

League which,

on 8 December

at the “Giuseppe

Meazza” Stadium,

will see Massimiliano Allegri’s Milan

battling it out against Martin Jol’s Ajax in

a decisive match that will decide which

team will go through to the finals. Ask your

concierge for tickets.

NEW YEAR SPECIAL

In December, Blue Note will be hosting

internationally renowned musicians

such as Dominic Miller, Sting’s guitarist

(1 December), the British vocalist Sarah

Jane Morris (from 9 to 11 December),

the American singer Diane Schuur (from

14 to 18 December) and the Angels in

Harlem Gospel Choir (from 26 to 31

December). The perfect way to bring in

the New Year while dining and sharing

the joy of the Choir’s singers.

www.bluenotemilano.it.

16 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


ITALIAN MUSICAL

FLASHDANCE

For the first time, the Italian

production of Flashdance, the

musical inspired by the famous

film of the ‘80’s, will be staged

at Teatro della Luna in Milan.

Accompanied by the soundtrack

of famous songs such as What

a feeling, Maniac and Manhunt, the show is scheduled to run from 10

December to 23 January. www.ticketweb.it

From Soweto with Energy

Just back from its triumphant performance at the

opening ceremony for the 2010 Fifa World Cup in

South Africa, the Soweto Gospel Choir is back

on tour and is set to arrive in Milan where it will

perform just one concert on 13 December at

Teatro Manzoni. The extraordinary ensemble will

present a program combining the popular gospel

music of the South African school with that of

traditional western gospel. www.teatromanzoni.it

I PROMESSI SPOSI

“I promessi sposi” by Alessandro Manzoni, published in 1840, is

the most famous novel in Italian literature, studied as a set work by

generations of school children. Following its triumphant debut, this

summer at Stadio Meazza, the musical, based on the book, will be

staged from 14 to 30 December at the Teatro degli Arcimboldi.

www.promessisposimusical.it

BOLLYWOOD, ITALY

More than 350,000 spectators throughout the world, the Indian

musical is now in Italy: Bollywood. The Show will be staged at

Palasharp from 28 December to 2 January. Dance, theatre and

music with fifty performers including musicians, dancers and

actors in a mix of images, choreographies and sound tracks

boasting 80 years of Indian cinema. www.ticketone.it

PHENOMENON OF THE MOMENT

Voca People are the new international musical

phenomenon. Already acclaimed in every corner

of the planet, this group of eight performers

will debut, on 13 December at Teatro Dal

Verme’s Sala Grande, to bring us their original

performance that combines amazing vocal

sounds and “a cappella” singing with the art of

modern beatbox which imitates the sounds of

drums, trumpets, guitars and other instruments

and musical effects. www.ticketone.it

LADY GAGA HITS THE CITY OF FASHION

Lady Gaga’s “Monster Ball Tour” will be staged in Milan on 4 and 5 December at the

Mediolanum Forum di Assago. Classified number one in Time Magazine special list of the

most influential artists of 2010, the “Queen of Pop” is also a major name in Europe. The

winner of two Grammy Awards and various prizes at the MTV Video Music Awards, on

both sides of the pond, the US artist is eagerly awaited for one of the most spectacular

live shows that you will see this year. Who knows what look she will flaunt in the capital

of fashion. T: 892101. www.ticketone.it


WHERE NOW Milan

» DINING

So this is Panettone

An Italian holiday tradition and a symbol of Milan,

this sweet festive bread dates back over 500 years

Panettone is a type of large, sweet bread, leavened

very slowly and enriched with raisins and candied

fruit. One of the most romantic legends about its

origins links its invention to Ugo, a young falconer

employed by Prince Ludovico il Moro, yearning to

conquer the heart of a poor girl. To win her over,

the nobleman disguised himself as a baker and

invented a rich bread. From a gastronomic point of

view, the distinguishing feature of panettone is that

it is leavened two or three times. Its golden colour

derives from the skilful combination of butter and

egg yolks, while its overall beauty is completed by

the orange, green and brown notes resulting from

the addition of candied fruit and raisins. The gourmet

trick is to warm it for a few minutes in front of an

open oven or on top of a radiator before serving it.

The purists

Panettone is a very popular dessert.

For those who are determined to

stick to tradition, several of the best

pastry chefs include: the “Boutique

del dolce” owned by Achille Zoia of

Concorezzo (20 km north of Milan),

the “Comi” pasticceria (T: 0399

241274) of Missaglia (35 km NW of

Milan), the “Pasticceria Veneto”

(T: 0303 92586) of Brescia (100 km

east of Milan), where the panettone

carries the signature of the king

of Italian pastry chefs, Iginio

Massari and, finally, the “Pinuccia”

pasticceria (T: 02 9017690) of Arluno

(30 km NE of Milan) which possibly

makes the purest of the pure. Our

cover is dedicated to them.

The famous

Although it is true that many of the

crème de la crème of panettone

chefs are hidden away in various

parts of the region, it is also true

that Milan is home to several of

the most famous and prestigious

pastry chefs, whose name alone

is a guarantee of the utmost in

quality. If you’re thinking of giving

someone a special panettone gift

then Peck is the place to go. A

favourite Milanese haunt for more

than a century (see The Guide-

Dining). Among the other historic

names, also worth particular note

are Cova, the pastry boutique

par excellence located in via

Montenapoleone; Sant’Ambroeus

in corso Matteotti, in the heart of

the centre; Marchesi in via Santa

Maria della Porta, Galli in via

Victor Hugo and Cucchi in corso

Genova. Each Milanese family

has its own favourite version: ask

And as an accompaniement

to panettone?

The particular flavour of panettone requires a

wine that has the same characteristics, namely

sweetness. The best accompaniment has

proven to be Moscato which, in the sparkling

version, has a golden yellow colour, a delicate

floral bouquet (in particular that of wisteria),

a smooth taste and an appealing sweetness.

around, it might serve as a source

of inspiration.

The divas

Tre Marie is another historical

brand of traditional panettone. This

year, the designer name of pastry

making has launched a partnership

with two Milanese chefs of

International repute: Carlo Cracco

and Davide Oldani. Invited to

experiment, these two celebrities

have worked on two versions of

panettone, a sweet version and a

savoury version. The first contains

no raisins or candied fruit (700g)

and is designed to act as the

perfect base for pastry recipes.

In other words, not a consumer

dessert but a dessert for chefs to

be integrated and combined as an

ingredient in new and innovative

recipes. The second is a savoury

version of panettone (600 g), ideal

for hors d’oeuvres and aperitivi

served at dinners or during the

Christmas holidays. Furthermore,

Davide Oldani and Carlo Cracco

have created two gourmet recipe

options that can be tasted at their

respective restaurants (see listings).

So, what are you waiting for?

18 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


the guide

where

Shopping

Luxury at Your Feet

For their 100th anniversary, Italian menswear label, Ermenegildo

Zegna, is releasing a special “Centennial” Collection of pieces that

pay homage to the brand’s heritage, combining artisan tradition

with technological innovation. A perfect example are these high

performance, lace-up Oxford-style shoes featuring a centenary

emblem in metal, inlaid in the sole of the shoe.

www.zegna.it. Via Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437

For more detailed listings, please see

www.wheretraveler.com

Accessories

ANDREW’S TIES – At Andrews Ties there is

something for everyone. Their selection covers a

vast range of models with over 6000 patterned

ties featuring ten different variations for each

style. You just can’t help treating yourself to

one. The chain has other stores in Milan. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.

andrewsties.com. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

T: 02 860935. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ – The brand is

renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated,

original creations made from unusual

materials such as plastic and resin, combined

to create unique objects both in terms of

colour and shape. Her creations have been

used as accessories by famous television

and film producers. The accessory as a focal

point, capable of creating a look or dressing

up any type of garment. A magical blend of

contemporary and classical taste. A dream

well worth the wearing. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 10.30am-1pm; 2.30pm-7.30pm. www.

angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11. T: 02

86461080. M2 Lanza. MAP F4

BORBONESE – A brand label that epitomizes the

ultimate in fashion accessories and clothing is

currently celebrating its hundredth anniversary

with its special new Borbonese 1910 collection.

Known for its creativity and innovation throughout

the word, Borbonese is famous for its bird’s

eye pattern, the symbol of the maison. Using

precious materials of the highest quality, and a

precise artisanal technique, Borbonese engenders

products of superlative design and luxury. Its

collaboration with artists of the calibre of Balla and

Lichtenstein make for attention grabbing pieces.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.borbonese.com.

Via N. Bixio, 7. T: 02 97379911. M1 Porta Venezia.

MAP H3

BORSALINO – Historic Italian company

synonymous with “hats” the world over. Each

piece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, created

with an artisan touch, the result of in-depth

research that harmonizes fabrics, materials and

colours. Open Mon and Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-

7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.borsalino.it.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 89015436.

M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

BRACCIALINI – Bags resembling works of art:

embroidered, coloured, vibrant and carefree.

Both inside and out, these totes are the epitome

of creativity, innovation and passion. For women

in search of distinctive, unique, personality-filled

objects. Also sells scarves, wallets, belts, sunglasses

and other items. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.

braccialini.it. Corso Venezia, 3. T: 02 76001786.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

COCCINELLE – Sophisticated, timeless high-fashion

bags and accessories with an artisan edge. For

those in search of accessories featuring minimalist

lines and eye-catching details. A wide choice of

bags, footwear, wallets and other accessories. 3

sales outlets. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun

11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.coccinelle.com.

DON’T MISS VISITING WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM before leaving: every week something new in the city!

20 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Shopping

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list

of establishments recommended by the

editors of Where Magazine and includes regular

advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the

most popular luxury brands are grouped under

the separate lisiting Fashion Designer Stores,

which can be found on pages 22-23.

MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in BOLD at the end of

each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates

on the street maps on pages 78-79.

INFORMATION

Visitors should note that VAT is generally 20%

and it is generally included in the price of

goods. Before finalizing a purchase, overseas

visitors from outside the EU should ask the

shop assistant whether they are eligible for

a tax refund. Shopping hours are generally

from 9.30am to 7.30pm; less centrally located

shops still take the traditional lunch break from

12.30pm or 1pm to 3pm or 4pm. Most shops

are closed on Sundays (except those located in

central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Make

sure to always check ahead. Several unusual

shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors

and aficionados in specific product categories,

are listed under Passion Shopping rather than

in the standard Shopping sections.

Via A. Manzoni corner of via Bigli. T: 02 76028161.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

CRAVATTERIE NAZIONALI – A welcoming

establishment not far from the Duomo, it stocks

a wide assortment of logoed ties and an elegant,

signature brand collection. Also on offer scarves

and stoles made from silk, linen, cashmere and

pashmina. Open Mon 2pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-

7.30pm. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17. T: 02 76004208.

M1 San Babila. MAP G5

DONATELLA PELLINI – Unique, design pieces.

Sculpture-like, award-winning costume jewellery,

exhibited in museums and at exhibitions

worldwide. With her creations, Donatella Pellini

demonstrates that precious jewels are not only

gold and diamonds, but those made from resin,

glass paste and crystals, simple materials combined

with surprising results. Sculptural pieces that

are never the same which can be admired and

purchased in the designer’s three shops in Milan

(Via Morigi, the historic boutique; Via Manzoni;

Corso Magenta). Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat

9.30am-7.30pm. Via Manzoni, 20. T: 02 76008084. M3

Montenapoleone. MAP F4

EVE – Leather accessories: shoes, bags, wallets and

luggage featuring a young, contemporary design,

made from the finest, ultra-soft leathers. Available

in a wide range of colours that can be matched

with the garments chosen by Eve for casual,

elegant men and women’s wear. Open 10am-

7.30pm. Viale Piave, 35. T: 02 29526986. MAP H3.

M1 Porta Venezia. • Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat

9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Via L. Mascheroni, 12.

T: 02 468732. M1 Conciliazione. MAP C4

FRANZI 1864 - Unique, contemporary, luxurious

handmade pieces. Women and men’s bags and

luggage. Franzi’s wonderful vegetable tanned

leather has made the brand famous since its

inception in 1864. Stocked at Banner Boutique.

Open Mon 1pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

www.franzi1864.eu. Via Sant’Andrea, 8/A. T: 02

76004609. M1 San Babila. MAP G5

FURLA – Contemporary luxury and a discreet,

elegant style. A wide assortment of exclusively

“Made-in-Italy” items: bags, footwear, belts,

luggage, costume jewellery and jewellery. A

perfect example of time-honoured Italian artisan

tradition. The chain has other stores in Milan.

Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. www.furla.it. Corso

Buenos Aires, 22 corner of via Omboni.

T: 02 2043319. M1 Porta Venezia. MAP G5

I SANTI – This well-established historic Milanese

brand creates not only handbags and accessories

for women but also a travel&business and men’s

line. A perfect blend of superior craftsmanship,

supreme quality skins and Italian design, with

painstaking attention to details. Open Mon

2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9am-7.30pm.

www.isanti.it. Corso Lodi, 1. T: 02 55185925.

M3 Porta Romana. MAP H7

MIU MIU – A young, stylish, fresh, avant-garde brand

created, in 1993, by Miuccia Prada (Miu Miu is her

nickname) for young, upmarket women. Dresses,

bags, footwear, gloves, scarves and fashion

accessories and items. Open Mon-Sat 10am-

7.30pm; Sun 11am-8pm. www.miumiu.com. Via

Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila,

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

ORCIANI – Details that make the difference

and distinguish the unmistakable style of the

Orciani brand: bags, accessories and leather

goods manufactured using only the finest

quality materials such as leather and crocodile.

Renowned for its “fly belt”, designed to speed up

airport security checks thanks to a removable

buckle which can be extracted without having

to remove the belt from its loops and its “car

belts” featuring elasticized leather for the utmost

comfort in car travel. For those in search of the

best and latest in leather wear. www.orciani.it. In

vendita presso Brian & Barry, Via Durini, 28 e Le

Moustache. Via Amadeo, 24. Open Mon 3.30pm-

7.30pm; Tues-Fri 9.30am-12.30am/3pm-7.30pm;

Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. M2 Lambrate.

OFF MAP

SHARRA PAGANO – Trendy costume jewellery:

resin, crystals, coloured glass, rhinestone, semiprecious

stones, brass and other metals, melded

in a variety of stunning combinations. Sold

throughout the world. The Sharra Pagano pearl

collections come very close to the real thing.

Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sharrapagano.it.

Corso Garibaldi, 35.

T: 02 89013542. M2 Lanza. MAP E3

VALEXTRA – For those in search of luxury luggage,

sophisticated bags and leather items for the

office. Its range also includes wallets, small

leather goods (including exclusive keyrings) and

elegant cases for laptops (PC and Mac). Valextra

is a harmonization of artistic inventions and

artisan experiences. The store has other sales

point in Milan. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.

valextra.it. Via A. Manzoni, 3. T: 02 99786000. M3

Montenapoleone. MAP F4

Beauty

ALDO COPPOLA – This celebrity hair salon has

no need for introduction and is a hot favourite

with the fashion crowd. Aldo Coppola boasts

numerous salons scattered around Milan but also

in other fashion capitals worldwide. Minimalist

décor and design lighting make this a truly

unique venue in Milan, Rome, Florence, Como,

Lecco, Monte Carlo and Porto Cervo. Open

Tues-Sat 9am-6pm. www.aldocoppola.it. Corso

Garibaldi, 110. T: 02 6552144. M2 Moscova. MAP F2

ALIVE – Discotheque, atelier and shop: Alive salon

is not just a hairdresser’s and a beauty parlour.

While waiting to get that stunning cut, you can

buy shoes, tops and trendy accessories and, if the

mood so moves you, you can also navigate in

Internet or play playstation in the assigned areas.

All this while a cool DJ spins the tables. No boring

waiting. Open Tues-Fri 9am-9pm; Sat 9am-8pm.

www.alivemilano.com. Via F. Burlamacchi, 11.

T: 02 54108529 M3 Porta Romana. MAP H7

ROLANDO – “Creativity, experience and sensitivity

to ensure that every woman feels like a diva”, this

is the motto of Rolando Elisei, a beauty expert

rather than just a coiffeur. During his 35 year

career, Rolando has styled the hair of numerous

Hollywood legends and created the look of a

long list of celebrities. If you feel that it’s time for

a new look to enhance your personal style then

this is the place to go. Two salons (Corso Vercelli

and Via Stefini).Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.

rolandoelisei.com. Corso Vercelli, 38. T: 02 4690114.

M1 Pagano. MAP B4

RUBERTELLI – The latest treatments, innovation

and ancient wisdom. These are the secrets of

the Rubertelli Team beauty salon. Offering a vast

selection of treatments for men and women, each

customer is given individual attention to find the

solution best suited to his/her needs. Everything

is skilfully connected: cut, colour, styles and

make-up. The same applies to traditional beauty

treatments, from massages to nail reconstruction,

from sun lamps to hair removal treatments. Open

Mon-Sat 9am-8pm. www.rubertelli.com. Via V.

Monti, 56. T: 02 468845. M1 Conciliazione. MAP C3

SEVERGNINI – Severgnini epitomizes beauty

with simple, natural, easy-to-manage hairstyles

and practical cuts. Founded in the Seventies,

it owes its reputation to the professionalism of

its staff, innovative trends and a combination

of traditional and innovative procedures. All its

salons offer a complete service: in addition to hair

care, face and body treatments are also available.

Severgnini has several locations scattered

throughout the city (Corso Matteotti, Piazza Duca

d’Aosta, Via Pascoli, Via Paolo da Cannobbio,

Piazza S. Babila and via San Martino). Open Tues-

Sat 9am-6pm. www.severgninimilano.it. Piazza S.

Babila, 5. T: 02 76001648. M1San Babila. MAP G4

TONI&GUY – Two young and dynamic salons

(in via V. Monti and Galleria Passarella) offering

personalized cuts, studied according to the

lines of your face and individual customer

requirements. Tony&Guy also boasts a prestigious

academy, where hair stylists share experiences,

and a beautifully packaged product line. Open

Mon 11am-8pm; Tues-Wed-Fri 9.30am-9pm;

Thurs 9.30am-9pm; Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. www.

www.wheretraveler.com 21


Fashion Designer Stores

Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world.

Although high-end purchases can be made in any part of the city,

several urban areas are also entirely given over to the business

of luxury shopping. First and foremost, the Quadrilatero della

moda, set amidst four of Milan’s most expensive and prestigious

shopping streets, namely via Montenapoleone, via Manzoni, via

della Spiga and corso Venezia (see map p. 24). It is here that the

most important fashion designers, of international repute, offer their

luxurious creations. Discover the world of fashion and glamour in

this unique, magical pedestrian precinct (also featuring a number

of small side streets dotted with glam boutiques).

Beyond the Quad itself, shoppers can visit other just as golden

districts such as Brera (see map p. 30), with corso Garibaldi and

corso Como, the Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera district (see map

p. 37) or the Duomo-Galleria-via Dante area.

ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY –

www.albertaferretti.com. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. Via Montanapoleone, 21/A. T:

02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San

Babila. MAP G4

ALVIERO MARTINI 1° CLASSE – www.

alvieromartini.it. Open Mon-Thurs 10am-

2pm/3pm-7pm; Fri-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso

G. Matteotti corner of via P. Verri. T: 02

76008002. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

BALENCIAGA – www.balenciaga.com. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Santo Spirito, 19.

T: 02 760841. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

BLUMARINE – www.blumarine.com. Open

Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della

Spiga, 42. T: 02 795081. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

BOTTEGA VENETA – www.bottegaveneta.

com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via

Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76024495. M1 San

Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

BORSALINO – www.borsalino.com. Open

Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun-Mon 10am-

2pm/3pm-7pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II,

92. T: 02 89015436. M1 Duomo. MAP F3-F4

BURBERRY – www.burberry.com. Open

Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Bigli,

2. T: 02 7608201. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

CESARE PACIOTTI – www.cesare-paciotti.

com. Women: Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Via Sant’Andrea, 8. T: 02 76001338. M1 San

Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4 • Men:

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea,

8/A. T: 02 76001164. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

CHANEL – www.chanel.com. Open Mon-

Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T:

02 782514-76016545. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

CHURCH’S – www.church-footwear.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-

7.30pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4 • Open Mon-Sat

10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 84. T: 02

72094454. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

DIOR – www.diorcouture.com. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 12.

T: 02 76317801. MAP G4. M1 San Babila,

M3 Montenapoleone.

DOLCE&GABBANA – www.dolcegabbana.it.

Men: open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Corso

Venezia, 15. T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila.

MAP G4.• Women: open Mon-Sat 10am-

7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 26. T: 02 76001155. M1

San Babila. MAP G4 • Accessories: via della

Spiga, 2. T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

EMILIO PUCCI – www.emiliopucci.com. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,

14. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA – www.zegna.

com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via

Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

ETRO – www.etro.it. Open Mon-Sun

10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone,

5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

FENDI – www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Thurs

9.30am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-10pm. Via

Sant’Andrea, 16. T: 02 8852236. M1 San Babila.

MAP G4

22 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


FAY – www.fay.it. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-

7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 15. T: 02 76017597. M1

San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

FRATELLI ROSSETTI – www.fratellirossetti.

com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-

2pm, 3pm-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,

1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

GATTINONI – www.gattinoni.net. Open Mon-

Sun 9.30am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni, 9. T: 02

72094402. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

GIANFRANCO FERRÈ – www.

gianfrancoferre.it. Open Mon-Sun 9am-6pm

by appointment. Via Pontaccio, 21. T: 02

721341. M2 Lanza Brera-Piccolo Teatro.

MAP E3

GIORGIO ARMANI – www.giorgioarmani.

com. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via

Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 76003234. M1 San

Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

GUCCI – www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Fri

10am-7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm.

Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1

San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4 •

Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm;

Sun 10am-7pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

T: 02 8597991. M1, M3 Duomo. MAP F5

HERMÈS – www.hermes.com. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea,

21. T: 02 76003495. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4 • Hermès

Aeroporto di Milano-Aeroporto di Malpensa

Terminal 1. T:02 58581265. OFF MAP

HOGAN – www.hoganworld.com. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,

23. T: 02 76011174. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G7

JIL SANDER – www.jilsander.com. Open Mon-

Sat 10am-7pm. Via P. Verri, 6. T: 02 7772991.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

JIMMY CHOO – www.jimmychoo.com. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A.

T: 02 45481770. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

KENZO – www.kenzo.com. Open Mon-Sat

9am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via A. Manzoni,

25. T: 02 72080735. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

KRIZIA – www.krizia.it. Open Mon

3pm-7.30pm; Tue-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Via della Spiga, 23. T: 02 76008429. M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

LAURA BIAGIOTTI – www.laurabiagiotti.it.

Open Mon 3pm -7pm; Tue–Sat 10am-1.30pm,

2.30pm-7pm. Via Borgospesso, 19. T: 02

799659. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

LES COPAINS – www.lescopains.it. Open

Mon 3pm-7pm Tue-Sat 10am-7pm.

Via A. Manzoni, 21. T: 02 72080092. M3

Montenapoleone. MAP F4

LORO PIANA – www.loropiana.com. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone,

27/c. T: 02 7772901. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

LUCIANO SOPRANI – www.lucianosoprani.

it. Open Tue-Fri 10.30am -2.30pm, 3pm-7pm;

Sat 10am-2pm, 3pm-7pm. Via E. Morosini, 30.

T: 02 54063280. M3 Porta Romana. MAP H6

MANOLO BLAHNIK – www.manoloblahnik.

com. Open Mon-Tues-Fri-Sat 10.30am-

7.30pm; Wed-Thurs 10.30am-9pm. Corso

Como, 10. T: 02 654831. M2 Porta Garibaldi

FS. MAP F1

MILA SCHÖN – www.milaschon.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am -7.30pm.

Via Vivaio, 11. T: 02 76281631. M1 Palestro.

MAP H4

MISSONI – www.missoni.it. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. Via Sant’Andrea corner of via

Bagutta. T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila.

MAP G4

MOSCHINO – www.moschino.it. Open Mon-

Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Sant’Andrea, 12. T: 02

76000832. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

• Open Mon-Sat 10am -7.30pm.

Via della Spiga, 30. T: 02 76004320.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

PRADA – www.prada.com. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Corso Venezia,

3. T: 02 76001426. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

• Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65.

T: 02 876979. M1 Duomo. MAP F5

RALPH LAUREN – www.ralphlauren.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 7788721.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

ROBERTA DI CAMERINO –

www.robertadicamerino.com. Open by

appointment. Corso Venezia, 29. T: 02

76025820. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

ROBERTO CAVALLI –

www.robertocavalli.com. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 42.

T: 02 76020900. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

ROCCO BAROCCO – www.roccobarocco.it.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Via della Spiga, 31. T: 02 76000518.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

STELLA MC CARTNEY –

www.stellamccartney.com. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. Via Santo Spirito, 3.

T: 02 76281222. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

TANINO CRISCI – www.taninocrisci.com.

Open Mon 3-7pm; Tue-Sun 10am-2pm,

3pm-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 3.

T: 02 76021264. M1 San Babila.

MAP G4

TOD’S – www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7.30pm; Sun 1-7pm. Via della Spiga,

22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4 • Galleria Vittorio

Emanuele II. T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP F5

TRUSSARDI – www.trussardi.it. Concept

Store: Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm.

Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 8068821.

M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5 • Accessories:

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm.

Via Sant’Andrea, 5. T: 02 8068821.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

VALENTINO – www.valentino.com. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone,

20. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

VERSACE – www.versace.com.

Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. Via

Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD –

www.viviennewestwood.com. Open Mon-

Sat 10.30am-7pm. Corso Venezia, 25.

T: 02 76080222-223. M1 San Babila.

MAP G4

www.wheretraveler.com 23


o

lla

an

V. del Carmine

del

ola

V. Ciovasso

Lauro

V. dei Bossi

V. Porrone

Shopping

V. Brera

V. Melone

V. dell’Orso

V. Lupetta

V. Mercanti

V. Spadari

P.za

S. Marco

Quadrilatero Pinacoteca della moda

(Quadrilatero

di Brera

d’oro)

The di Brera so-called “Quadrilatero

della moda” Osservatorio is situated

Astronomico

a short di distance Brera

Orto

on foot

from the Duomo. Botanico This is

where all the big designer

names and most Ex Monte luxurious

stores in the di world Pietà cluster.

Although the two most

famous streets are via

Montenapoleone S. Giuseppe and

via della Spiga, all the

others located in the

“Quadrilatero” also offer

a fabulous array of shop

Teatro

windows alla that Scalawill literally

make you catch your Leonardo

breath.

V. Clerici

V. Brera

V. A. Boito

V. Orefici

V. Mazzini V. Mazzini

V. G. Verdi

Ermenegildo

V. Dogana

Zegna

V. Mauri

V. San Marco

P.tta

Palazzo

Cusani

V. T. Grossi

V. Hugo

V. dell’Unione

V. Zebedia

V. Fiori Oscuri

V. Filodrammatici

V. San

Dalmazio

.za

dusio

Pal. dei

Giureconsulti

Cordusio

Palazzo della

aggio Ragione

trale P.za

Mercanti

Passaggio

Duomo Duomo

P.za

o XI

zo

zio

ERA

ria del

ine

P.tta M.

Bossi

Teatro dei

Filodrammatici

24 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

V. Fieno

Italia

S. Marco

V. Monte di Pietà

V. S. Pellico

V. Santa Margherita

V. Gonzaga

Corso di Po

V. Cernaia

Luxury shopping

Museo del

Risorgimento

V. Andegari

Missori

V. Fatebenefratelli

V. dell’Annunciata

V. Borgonuovo

Duomo

V. Flli. Gabba

P.za della

Scala

Galleria

Vittorio

Emanuele II

P.za del

Duomo

V. Velasca

V. Morone

V. Bigli

V. Alessandro Manzoni V. Alessandro Manzoni

V. Foscolo

P.za

Reale

V. Rastrelli

V. P. Cannobio

Torre

Velasca

V. San Raffaele

V. Radegonda

V. Hoepli

V. Agnello

del Duomo Palazzo

Acqua Arcivescovile di Parma

V. delle Ore

Acqua di Parma represents the expression of

a long tradition and the very quintessence

P.za

of Italian taste and elegance: meticulous S. Stefano

attention to detail, use of highly selected

materials, hand-crafted products, from

Home Fragrance and new Blu Mediterraneo

to travels bags and accessories.

V. Larga

www.acquadiparma.it

Via del Gesù, 3

T: 02 76023307

V. Panta

Questura

P.za

S. Erasmo

V. dei Giardini

Montenapoleone

V. Palazzo Reale

V. De Marchi

Ascensore

V. Chiaravalle

V. Montenapoleone

Odeon

V. Sant’Antonio

Palazzo

Borromeo

d’Adda

Casa

Manzoni

Palazzo

Belgioioso

Casa degli P.za

Omenoni Belgioioso

P.za

L.go

Meda

Mattioli

Pal. Marino

Municipio S. Fedele

P.za

S. Fedele

Duomo

Palazzo

Reale

L.go L. J.

S. Gottardo

P.za S. M. Borges V. Giardino in Corte

Beltrade Craftsmanship, innovation and attention

S. Maria

P.za

to presso detail: in occasion of the Centennial,

Diaz

a

special S. Satiro Collection has been developed

Galleria emphasizing the historical and sartorial

Torino

heritage Galleria of the Company. This unique and

timeless Mazzini collection is now available in this

Galleria

dell’Unione Ermenegildo Zegna Boutique. (p. 23) Teatro

Lirico

www.zegna.it P.za

. Alessandro Via Montenapoleone, Missori V. Albricci 27/E

T: 02 76006437

Museo

Museo

Poldi

Pezzoli

Stazione

Centrale

Archi di Porta

Nuova

V. San Paolo

Galleria

Manzoni

S. Francesco

di Paola

V. Borgospesso

V. P. Verri

Galleria

Longobardi

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

Galleria

Pattari

V. San Bergamini

V. Pattari

Festa del Perdono

V. F. Turati

V. Santo Spirito

Corso Matteotti

P.za del

Liberty

Galleria

del Toro

P.za

Fontana

Università

degli Studi

Teatro

Manzoni

V. S. Pietro all’Orte

P.za

Beccaria

V. del Vecchio Politecnico

V. Senato

V. Francesco Sforza

V. Palestro

Corso Venezia

L.go dei

L.go

Bersaglieri Augusto

Pisa Orologeria

V. Verziere

S. Bernardino

alle

A watch

Ossa

lover’s paradise for over 50 years.

Prestigious timepieces with particular

attention to the latest innovations. Corso di Porta Vitt

Basilica Assistance di centre and specialized

Biblioteca Comunale

Santo Stefano workshop. (p 38) Centrale (Palazzo

Maggiore

Sormani-Andreani)

V. San Bernardino

V. Laghetto

P.za

Cavour

Vigili

Urbani

V. D. Manin

QUADRILATERO

D’ORO

● Ermenegildo Zegna

Pisa Orologeria ●

S. Antonio

Abate

Museo Bagatti

Valsecchi

V. della Spiga

V. Gesù

● Acqua di Parma

V. Sant’Andrea

V. Bagutta

Corso Europa

V. Cavallotti

V. della Signora

Centro

Svizzero

Galleria

Passarella

Skorpion Club

Galleria del Corso S. Vito

P.le

Morandi

Museo Civico

di Milano

Giardini Pubblici

Teatro

di Verdura

Biblioteca di

Via Del Senato

Museo

di Storia

Contemporanea

P.za S.

Babila

S. Carlo Teatro

al Corso Nuovo

S. Babila

L.go A.

Toscanini

Galleria

Strasburgo

V. Durini

www.pisaorologeria.com

Via Verri, corner of

via Montenapoleone, 9

T: 02 762081

V. Marina

V. San Primo

V. Borgogna

V. Cerva

V. Guastalla

V. Cerva

V. Marziale

V. Ronchetti

V. Andreani V. Zaccaria

Giardino

della Guastalla

Palazzo

del Senato

Palazzo

Fontana-

Silvestri

V. Boschetti

V. San Damiano

V. Marina

Palazzo

Serbelloni

Corso Monforte C

Galleria

S. Babila

Palazzo

Durini

Galleria

d’Arte

Moderna

S. Pietro

Celestino

Teatro San

Babila

S. Babila

PAC -

Padiglione

Contempo

V. Uberto Visconti di Modrone

Sinagoga

V. Filippo

V. Cesare B

V. Freguglia

V

V

V

V. Chiosset


Shopping

toniandguy.it. Via V. Monti, 27.

T: 02 48027137. M1-M2 Cadorna. MAP D4

WILD BEAUTY – Just a short distance from the

Castello Sforzesco, Wild Beauty aims to rejuvenate

skin and soul. An expert team of professionals, a

sophisticated ambience and a host of services.

Among the most popular, well worth a try are

“beauty day”, a complete treatment including body

care, manicure and pedicure, facials and peelings.

Open Mon-Tues 8.30am-9pm; Wed-Thurs-Fri

8.30am-9.30pm; Sat 10.30am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-

8pm. www.wildbeauty.it. Corso Garibaldi, 30.

T: 02 72023341. M2 Lanza, M2 Moscova. MAP E3

Books & Magazines

AMERICAN BOOKSTORE – Situated just a stone’s

throw from Castello Sforzesco, for the past 30 years,

this popular bookstore has been a reference point

for English-speaking readers. Specializing in the

classics of American literature, it offers a wide array

of titles, including scientific publications, books on

art, cinema, theatre etc. Open Mon 1.30pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Largo Cairoli corner of via M.

Camperio. T: 02 878920. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4

FNAC – An internationally renowned French chain, it

offers three floors featuring a vast range of products:

books (also available in foreign languages) CDs,

DVDs, videogames, cell phones, MP3, IT, TV, Hi-Fi,

cameras and camcorders, a ticket service, photo

printing, bar and Internet Point. Open Mon-Sat

9.30am-8pm; Sun 10am-8pm. www.fnac.it. Via

Torino, 45. T: 02 869541. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori.

MAP F5

LA FELTRINELLI LIBRI E MUSICA - Italy’s largest chain

of music and book stores, it boasts numerous

locations scattered throughout the city. Just a few

steps away from the Teatro Nazionale, three floors

of books (foreign language sections also available),

CDs, DVDs, sheet music, magazines, videogames,

new technologies, graphics, stationery and

gadgets, talks and live music, bar, ticket office.

Two locations in the city (piazza Piemonte, corso

Buenos Aires). Open Mon noon-9pm; Tues-Thurs

10am-9pm; Fri-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 10am-8pm.

www.lafeltrinelli.it. Piazza Piemonte, 2. T: 02 433541.

M1 Wagner. MAP B4

LA FELTRINELLI INTERNATIONAL – A vast catalogue

of titles in English, French, Spanish, German,

Russian, Portuguese, Chinese, Arabic and others,

foreign magazines, book launches with foreign

authors, audio books and DVDs. Open Mon-Fri

9am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.lafeltrinelli.

it. Piazza Cavour, 1. T: 02 6595644. M3 Turati. MAP G3

LIBRERIA INTERNAZIONALE ULRICO HOEPLI

– One of Italy’s largest bookstores,the Libreria

Internazionale Hoepli offers over 500,000 titles

(30% in foreign language versions), 6 floors of

books and 40 assistants well versed in all subjects.

A wide range of foreign books and magazines.

Subscriptions to Italian and foreign periodicals

and access to international databases for

bibliographical and book research. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7.30pm. www.hoepli.it. Via U. Hoepli, 5. T: 02

864871. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San Babila. MAP F4

MELTING POT-LIBRERIA INTERNAZIONALE

DEL TASCABILE – Just a few steps from the

magnificent Roman church of Sant’Eustorgio and

Parco delle Basiliche, an excellent choice of books

in Spanish, English, French, Portuguese, German

and Russian, almost all in paperback versions. Not

only classics and international bestsellers but also

a selection of novels, detective stories, historic

romances, narrative, self-help manuals and love

stories. Its associate bookstore Luoghi&Libri, a

gold mine of travel books and guides, maps

and postcards, can be found next door. Open

Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7.30pm.

www.libreriameltingpot.it. Via Vettabbia, 3. T: 02

58310713. M3 Missori. MAP E7

MONDADORI MULTICENTER – A chain of

megastores scattered throughout the city,

offering a wide assortment of books, CDs,

DVDs, videogames, phones, electronics, IT, café,

foreign newsstand and Internet Point. www.

negozimondadori.it. Several locations in the

city (piazza Duomo, corso Vittorio Emanuele II,

via Marghera, via Berchet). Mon-Sun 9am-11pm

(Newsstand, Coffee Bakery and Fine Foods from

7am). Piazza del Duomo, 1.

T: 02 4544110. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

Animal House

by host

contemporary

men’s store with

a wide selection

of international

brands

PROEDICOMUNICAZIONE – PHOTO DE LUNA

Barbour

Blauer

Ganesh

Blundstone

Hartford

New Balance

Penfield

Sebago

William Lockie

Via A. Saffi, 7 – 20123 Milano – Tel: 02 4694900

www.wheretraveler.com 25


Shopping

Department Stores

& Shopping Centers

LA RINASCENTE, a fabulous department

store overlooking the Duomo, is a real part of

Milan’s history. Open seven days a week:

Mon-Sat 9.30 am-10pm; Sun 10am-10pm

www.rinascente.it Piazza Duomo, 10. T: 02

88521. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5.

Another historic department store, extending

over several floors, is the COIN flagship store

in piazza Cinque Giornate. Boasting a seamless

glass façade, it features one of the largest video

walls in Europe and serves as an interactive

medium for dialogue with the city. It offers a

number of excellent services and an array of

the best fashion brands, ranging from clothing

to accessories, from home design to food.

It also has other branches located in corso

Vercelli 44 and in piazza Cantore 12.

Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-8.30pm;

Sun 11am-8pm. www.coin.it.

Piazza Cinque Giornate. T:0255192083.

MAP H5.

Finally, also worth note is the PIAZZA

PORTELLO shopping centre. Situated just

outside the center, in a rapidly expanding

area, this open-air mall hosts numerous shops

and facilities. Mon-Sun 8.30am-9pm. www.

piazzaportello.it. Via Grosotto, 7. MAP A2.

PANTON’S ENGLISH BOOKSHOP – Spread out

over two floors, Panton’s offers a vast selection

of books in English: narrative, history, children’s

books, cookery, art… but also books on antiques,

travel guides, maps and multi-media products.

Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. www.yesplease.it.

Via L. Mascheroni, 12. T: 02 4694468.

M1 Conciliazione. MAP C4

Children Clothing & Toys

CITTÀ DEL SOLE – A chain of shops boasting a wide

range of games and toys for all ages inc famous

International brands and beautifully handcrafted

items. Tactical and strategic games, board games,

draughts, backgammon, chess, architectural

models, building kits, boomerangs and countless

other fun items originating from all over Europe.

Several locations in the city (via Orefici, via

Solari, via Spallanzani, corso Lodi, via Canonica).

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cittadelsole.

it. Via Orefici, 13. T: 02 86461683. M1 Cordusio, M1

Duomo. MAP F5

GUSELLA – Clothing and footwear for fashionconscious

kids with other sales point in the city.

Range includes seasonal collections, party clothes,

ceremonial attire for baptisms, communions,

confirmations and bridesmaids dresses, in keeping

with the latest fashion trends, right up to the

world-renowned Gusella and Gusellina “first steps”

footwear line, crafted with particular attention to

orthopaedic aspects. Several locations in the city

(corso Vittorio Emanule II, corso Vercelli, corso di

Porta Romana, corso San Gottardo). Open Mon-Sat

10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.gusella.it.

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 37/B. T: 02 796533.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

IMAGINARIUM – A chain with many stores in

the city that combines learning, entertainment

and good old-fashioned fun for children and

young mothers, bursting with useful, irresistible

ideas. The perfect gift for a faraway friend or a

last-moment present. Products are divided up

by categories with clear, strategically placed

indications. Several locations in the city (largo

Augusto, corso Buenos Aires, corso Vercelli,

corso di Porta Romana and 4 other stores).

Open Mon 1pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

www.imaginarium.it. Largo Augusto, 10.

T: 02 76011992. M1 San Babila. G5

LA LUNA E… – A small, charming children’s clothing

store with a welcoming atmosphere, born

from a passion for the creation of personalized,

handcrafted collections. The owner, Simona

Sforza, also stocks women’s clothing and

knitwear, with exclusive styles, made-to-order,

in a range of trendy fashion styles. Delicious

dresses for debutantes and ceremonies at truly

affordable prices. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-

Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.lalunae.com.

Via F. Ferrucci, 16. T: 02 3494960. M1-M2 Cadorna.

MAP C2

MARIUCCIA – Just a stone’s throw from the

Duomo, this exclusive boutique offers a fabulous

array of babies and children’s clothing. Designer

labels stocked inc Cavalli, Armani, Moncler, Liujo,

MissBlumarine, La Martina, Dolce&Gabbana and

Burberry’s. Ultra-stylish mothers and children

will find a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Open

Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.

mariucciamilano.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

(Galleria De Cristoforis, 1). T: 02 76023101. M1 San

Babila. MAP G5

PUPI SOLARI - Located in one of Milan’s most charming

squares, it is one of the most elegant and traditional

Milanese shops for little “lords” and “princesses”. It has

been making and selling children’s clothes for more

than 40 years. Toys to play with and a small tea room

inside the shop guarantee a high class shopping

experience for those who enjoy being pampered.

Though stocking a number of brands, it offers a

classic selection, almost giving the impression of

being a monobrand store. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm;

Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Piazza N. Tommaseo, 2.

T: 02 463325. M1 Conciliazione. MAP C4

Clothing – Men & Women

ABERCROMBIE & FITCH – Hoodies or garments for

cool girls and guys: casual, high-quality apparel

brimming with enough personality to have

been dubbed a “lifestyle brand”. In the US, the

Abercrombie & Fitch phenomenon dates back

to the sixties while, in Europe, the fad started just

a few years ago. In October, 2009, following the

inauguration of its new flagship store in Milan,

in the very heart of the fashion centre, there was

a queue for days! Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm;

Sun noon-8pm. www.abercrombie.com. Corso

Matteotti, 12. T: 800 977839 (accessible only from

Italian numbers). M1 San Babila. MAP G4

AGNONA – Since 1953, its philosophy has been

based on the quality of its raw materials which are

always and only the very best. Agnona’s expertise

in textiles has resulted in the creation of chic,

easy-to-wear women’s knitwear and prêt-a-porter

collections which are always enhanced by new

and surprising variations. In addition to accessories,

it also produces a home collection which includes

throws, blankets, cushions, housecoats and slippers

all made from the finest textiles. Open Mon-Sun

10am-7pm. www.agnona.it. Via Montenapoleone,

21. T: 02 76316530. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

AL BAZAR – Superior quality materials and an

authentic passion for tailoring. According to the

owner “style has nothing to do with fashion, it’s

something that comes from inside”. This elegant

store carries high-end men’s clothing for formal

and casual wear. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7.30pm.

www.albazarmilano.it. Via A. Scarpa, 9. T: 02 433470.

M1 Pagano. MAP C4

ALLEGRI – A Tuscan company known throughout

the world for its men’s and women’s outerwear

collections including raincoats and jackets

made from techno-fabrics and cut according

to an elegant, contemporary, understated

style – a perfect blend of technology and

Italian craftsmanship. Also stocks casual jackets,

waterproof wool polo shirts and coats lined with

real goose down for colder winter days as well

as coordinated bags and umbrellas. Open Mon

3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.

allegri.it Corso Venezia, 15. T: 02 796547. M1 San

Babila. MAP G4

ANIMAL HOUSE – Contemporary menswear

stocking a wide selection of international brands

at this store created as an offshoot of Host (see

listing). Animal House is gradually becoming a

destination address for men in the know. Open

Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via A.

Saffi, 7. T: 02 4694900. M1 Conciliazione, M1-M2

Cadorna. MAP D4

ANTONIA BOUTIQUE – In the heart of Milan, Antonia

Giacinti offers a tasteful, elegant selection of the

best clothing and accessory collections. A perfect

blend of renowned luxury brands and emerging

designer labels. A real reference point for those

in search of simple, sophisticated garments

featuring a contemporary though timeless look.

Two locations (Boutique and Accessories: Via

Ponte Vetero, 1 corner of via Cusani; Man: Via Ponte

Vetero, 9). Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sun 10am-

7pm. www.antonia.it. Via Ponte Vetero, 1. T: 02

86998340. M2 Lanza. MAP E4

ASPESI – Likes to define its style as “ basic, with a

twist”. The cult brand, created in 1990 by fashion

veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored

lines, elegant details and natural materials. His

current collections are still based on the original

“no-frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those

who like their outerwear without flashy labels.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. Via

Montenapoleone, 13. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila,

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

BALLANTYNE – Unique, impeccable, contemporary

creations featuring a British-style flavour. All items

are hand-made according to a complex artisanal

procedure based on over 100 years of experience.

A premier producer of cashmere knitwear it also

sells jackets, trousers and skirts with particular

attention to patterns (including the famous

26 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Shopping

diamond-shaped ones) and colours, available in as

many as 50 different exclusive shades. Open Mon-

Sat 10am-7pm. www.ballantyne.it Via Sant’Andrea

10/A. T: 02 76017060. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

BARDELLI – Founded in 1941 as a hat shop, Bardelli’s

gradually grew to become the elegant emporium

that it is today. Specializing in “cashmere, cotton

and silk”, it is housed in a nineteenth century

palazzo and offers a range of beautiful men

and women’s collections including suits, shoes,

knitwear, textiles for the home and marvellous

accessories. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-

7.30pm. www.mbardelli.com. Corso Magenta, 13. T:

02 86450734. M1-M2 Cadorna. MAP E5

BEL BOUTIQUE – This elegant, centrally located

Milanese boutique stocks international designer

labels. Clothing, footwear and accessories for

women and children. Always in search of new

styles, it anticipates fashion trends to offer

its clientele unusual garments that make the

difference. Designer labels sold inc Ermanno

Scervino, Herno, Michael Kors and R.E.D Valentino.

Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat

10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Via S. Damiano, 2 corner

of Corso Monforte. T: 02 794489. M1 San Babila.

MAP G4

Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-

7.30pm. www.brianebarry.it. Via Durini, 28.

T: 02 76005582. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

BROOKS BROTHERS – The symbol of male

elegance since 1818, this American clothing and

accessories brand is distinguished by high quality

and sartorial tradition. Known since its inception

for its shirting, it all began in the early 20th

century with a new line of button down shirts,

inspired by those worn by British polo players

and currently one of the hallmark features of the

brand. For men and women in search of a total

look exuding casual elegance. Open Mon-Sat

10.30am-7.30pm. www.brooksbrothers.com.

Via San Pietro all’Orto, 10. T: 02 76018081. M1 San

Babila. MAP G4

BROOKSFIELD – Established in 1971, by Umberto

Maria Montasterolo as a brand of men’s trousers,

in just a few years it achieved total look status

combining the quality of Made-in-Italy with a

refined British-style imprint. Its flagship store for

men and women was founded in 1995, in the

heart of the fashion quad. Open: Mon 3pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.brooksfield.com. Corso

Venezia, 12. T: 02 76006242. M1 Porta Venezia.

MAP G4

a blend of sartorial perfection, tradition and

sophistication. Classic and contemporary male

elegance with no frills. Its fabrics are made from

the noblest yarns and the boutique offers a

“bespoke” service for those in search of unique,

personalized garments. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-

7pm. www.corneliani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 26.

T: 02 76317955. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

DAAD – A multi-brand boutique for him and her

which continues to surprise clients with its

fashion aptitude and insight into trends. Famous

labels are showcased in its sophisticated though

welcoming interior. It has three stores, all located

in Milan’s historical shopping district (via della

Spiga, corso Matteotti, via Santo Spirito). Open

Mon 2pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

www.daad-dantone.com. Via della Spiga, 25.

T: 02 76002120. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

DIESEL – A wholly Italian cult brand, invented by

Renzo Rosso and famed throughout the world

for its quality, creativity and slightly quirky air. A

favourite with young people of all ages. Among

its several sales points, worth particular note is

its giga-store in San Babila. Open Mon-Sat 10am-

8pm. www.diesel.com. Piazza San Babila, 1/3.

T: 02 76396762. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

BELLORA – Founded in 1883, Bellora is the finest

home linen manufacturer in Italy. Boasting

years of experience, research and technological

innovation, with Bellora, linen stars in every room

of the house, for a spontaneous, fresh lifestyle

marked by simplicity and elegance. The store

specializes in crisp, all-season linens. As delicate

as the products look, everything except the

cashmere and wool throws is washable. Also

features a cosy nightwear selection inc silky

chemises and lightweight robes. In addition

to three shops (Via Monti, 27; Via Durini, 17; Via

Manzoni, 43) Bellora also has corners in the Coin

flaggship stores. www.bellora.it. Open Mon 3pm-

7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Manzoni, 43. T: 02

6596361. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

BIFFI – Located in one of Milan’s trendiest districts,

it carries the majority of the best-known fashion

brands. An ideal address for those in search of

that casual, elegant look that only Italians know

how to achieve. Clothing but also sneakers and

accessories. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat

9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.biffi.com. Corso

Genova 5/6. T: 02 83116052. M2 Sant’Agostino,

Sant’Ambrogio. MAP D6

BOGGI – “Being elegant and feeling at ease on

any occasion, expressing one’s personality with

distinction”. This is the philosophy of Boggi, a real

institution in the panorama of male elegance

worldwide. It also boasts numerous sales points

scattered throughout the city (piazza San Babila,

corso Vercelli, corso Buenos Aires, Porta Romana,

corso Como, largo Augusto, via Maddalena,

Galleria Passarella) and at the airports (Linate e

Malpensa). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.

boggi.it. Piazza San Babila, 3. T: 02 76000366. M1

San Babila. MAP G4

BRIAN & BARRY – Despite its name, this is a

wholly Italian brand. It has a series of multi-brand

boutiques with various sales points in Milan (via

Durini, corso Vercelli, corso Buenos Aires). It carries

classic and casual men and women’s wear. Open

CHICCHI GINEPRI – Chicchi Ginepri has three stores

in Milan of which only one carries both men

and women’s clothing (via Manin, viale Murillo

and, only for women, piazzale G. De Agostini). It

stocks most of the main designer labels including

footwear and accessories. Open Mon-Sat 10am-

2pm/3pm-7pm. www.chicchiginepri.it. Via D.

Manin, 13. T: 02 6597956. M3 Turati. MAP G3

CORNELIANI – The company manufactures

hand-finished clothing and accessories for men,

ELEONORA SCARAMUCCI – Starting with its shop

windows, the Eleonora Scaramucci store delights

the eyes of passersby with its selection of refined

women’s wear. Also stocks its own “total look”

brand name. In September, 2009, Scaramucci

opened her own outlet, just a short distance

from the store. Shop hours: Mon-Sat 10am-

7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Outlet hours:

Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm.

www.eleonorascaramucci.com. Via Dell’Orso, 1.

T: 02-8052216. MAP F4

SPOTLIGHT

Living ideas

The idea of this design concept store

is to offer industrial structures as home

furnishing solutions. High Tech is a mix of

functionalism, aesthetics and a touch of

quirkiness for a perfect contemporary, urban,

loft-style chic. Located in a 19th century

building overlooking a picturesque Milanese

courtyard, you can find sofas, armchairs,

tables, chairs, beds and bookshelves but also

perfumes, exercise books, lamps, kitchenware and even clothing. Get

ready to be surprised because the atmosphere of this multi-space,

founded by the Bacchini brothers in 1982 and extending over 2000

square metres, changes according to the mood of its owners and the

seasons: you might meet a chef preparing a soufflé, have a chance to

taste Christmas biscuits or discover the soothing tones of Moroccan

music. In 2009, the store registered a visitor attendance of 420,000

people – an absolute “must-try” experience! Piazza XXV Aprile, 12.

www.wheretraveler.com 27


Shopping

ELIANE – A fashion store dedicated to original, edgy

fashions for the younger woman. It carries all the

best brands popular with the under 40’s but not

only. Its other shops are located in via Monti, via

Lorenteggio, corso Genova. The courtyard adjacent

to its via Belfiore location houses an outlet for

bargain hunters. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun

10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.eliane.it. Via

Belfiore, 7.

T: 02 4692121. M1 Wagner, M1 Pagano. MAP B4

GEMELLI – Established in 1927, this upscale shop

is a part of Milan’s history. Over the years, it has

stocked every major designer label and now offers

its own collection which reflects Milanese style

to perfection. Famed for its cashmere knitwear,

Gemelli boasts a women’s and men’s fashion

boutique with two adjacent shops for children and

sportswear. Just across the road, you can find the

Kid’s store Gemellino and “Country Club”, a shop

specialized in sportswear, a “country club” boutique

and one dedicated exclusively to socks. Open Mon

3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.

www.gemelli.it. Corso Vercelli, 16.

T: 02 48000057. M1 Pagano, M1 Conciliazione.

MAP C4

GUESS – All-American looks with a uniquely European

attention to detail. Though jeans represent the

cornerstone of the company’s history and success,

today Guess also designs, markets and distributes

complete clothing collections for men, women

and children. Innovative lines featuring lots of

denim for a strong, trendy, personality-filled look.

Two locations (Corso Buenos Aires, 36 corner of via

Melzo; Via Dante, 7). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;

Sun 12am-7.30pm. www.guess.com. Via Dante, 7. T:

02 72094530. M1 Cordusio. MAP E4

HENRY COTTON’S – One of the best-known names

in leisure wear, the new, Milan-based boutique,

designed by Anouska Hempel, is spread out over

3 floors and furnished with custom-built furniture

inspired by travel and sport. Scattered throughout

the store are leather trunks, chromed metal cases,

hockey sticks, wooden skis, boxing gloves and

sports trophies. A strong reference to the British

heritage of the brand, which draws inspiration from

the classic Anglo-American lifestyle. Open Mon-Sat

10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.

henrycottons.it. Corso Venezia, 7. T: 02 76028319. M1

San Babila. MAP G4

HOST – This elegant men’s shop was established as

the male counterpart of the historic Pupi Solari

(see listing) women’s boutique. It not only carries

an assortment of traditional but also lesser known

brands and is a favourite with Milanese men in

the know. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. Piazza N.

Tommaseo, 2. T: 02 436085. M1 Conciliazione.

MAP C4

ICEBERG – A brand with a strong identity, Iceberg

is known for its simple, tailored, elegant style

designed for dynamic fashion-conscious individuals.

Chic sportswear with couture undertones. Men’s

and women’s clothing, accessories, perfumes,

homeware and children’s clothing from 12 months

to 12 years. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.iceberg.

com. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 782385. M1 San

Babila. MAP G4

INCONTRI – Set within a quiet, residential area, this

elegant, fashionable shop is in perfect sync with

the brands showcased. The shop recently added a

section entirely dedicated to accessories. Open Mon

3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm;

Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.modaincontri.com.

Via E. Biondi corner of via Piero della Francesca.

T: 02 313177. MAP B1

LA TENDA – The first sales point of this group was

established in 1965 and is an institution of luxury

multi-brand labels on the Milanese scene. Its

boutiques (in addition to its first via Plinio location,

it has two other shops, one in Brera and the other

in Via M. Pagano) offer a vast and carefully chosen

selection of women’s collections. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. www.latendamilano.com. Piazza San

Marco, 1.

T: 02 6575804. M2 Moscova. MAP F2

LARUSMIANI CONCEPT BOUTIQUE– An expression

of timeless style and a leitmotif of sophisticated

elegance located in the heart of Milan’s fashion

quad in the now completely renovated historic

store opened in 1954. A Concept Boutique

extending over 700 sq.m. on three floors, it oozes

simplicity and understated luxury, reflecting the

subtlety of its sumptuous apparel. The perfect

place to build your wardrobe with exclusive

pieces. Larusmiani takes luxury retail to a new

level. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-

1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm www.larusmiani.it.

Via Montenapoleone, 7. T: 02 76006957.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

LUISA BECCARIA – A brand boasting an

unmistakable, romantic and feminine style. Highfashion

and prêt-a-porter collections, painstaking

attention to detail and artisan embroidery represent

Italian fashion throughout the world. For women

who believe that femininity is a plus to be flaunted

and worn on a daily basis. Also stocks bridal gowns

and children’s clothing. Has several branches (Bridal:

Via Fiori Chiari 17; Boutique: via Formentini, 1). Open

Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-

7pm. Open every third Sunday of the month. www.

luisabeccaria.it. Via M. Formentini, 1. T: 02 8638071.

M2 Lanza. MAP E3

LUISA SPAGNOLI – Historic Italian company and

a leader in the fashion and clothing industry.

An excellent source for elegant, classical and

contemporary styles and accessories. The store

has several branches scattered throughout Milan

(Corso Buenos Aires, 39; Corso Vittorio Emanuele -

Galleria S. Carlo; Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, 69; Corso

Vercelli, 35; Corso XXII Marzo, 5). Open Mon-Sat

10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.luisaspagnoli.it.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, 69. T: 02 8057577. M1-M3

Duomo. MAP F5

MAX MARA – An Italian fashion house known for its

ready-to-wear clothing. Established in 1951, since its

inception, Max Mara has always offered clean-cut,

beautifully tailored lines. Although it has numerous

sales points scattered throughout Milan, Italy and

the rest of the world, it is not a chain store but rather

a real designer label. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;

Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.maxmara.com. Piazza

Liberty-corso Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 76008849.

M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San Babila. MAP G5

MISS SIXTY – The young, trendy and edgy style of

Miss Sixty, an Italian brand known throughout the

world, has been defined by fashionistas as “streetchic”.

Particularly appreciated for the wide offer of

denims with a unique, original style, the collections

distinguish themselves for their feminine, seductive,

contemporary and ironic style. A hot favourite with

teenagers. Two stores in Milan (via Montenapoleone,

via Solferino). Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm.

www.misssixty.com. Via Montenapoleone, 27.

T: 02 76390698. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

MONCLER – Boutique and home to the famous

“puffer” jackets which, in addition to the lines of its

main sportswear collection, also carries the Gamme

Bleu for men and the Gamme Rouge for women, an

ultra-sophisticated line featuring noble fabrics and

highly sought-after details that combine the style

of haute couture with superior-quality materials

that have made Moncler a leading name in winter

outerwear. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-

1pm/3pm-7pm. www.moncler.com. Via della Spiga,

7. T: 02 76025913. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

NADINE – Inaugurated in 1990 and based on an

idea by two young entrepreneurs, Clemente and

Alberto Halfon, Nadine Fashion stands for elegance

and attention to new trends. Its six stores, scattered

throughout the city, from Corso Vittorio Emanuele

to Corso Vercelli, offer a wide range of clothes, shoes,

bags and accessories, specially designed to suit the

everyday needs of the dynamic woman. Continually

updated collections and attention to detail ensure

glam, superior quality garments suitable for all

occasions. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm.

www.nadinefashiongroup.it. Corso Vittorio

Emanuele II, 34. T: 02 76009028. M1-M3 Duomo,

M1 San Babila. MAP G5

PATRIZIA PEPE – Urban fashion for fast moving girls.

Elegant, contemporary clothing and accessories

featuring practical, original details. For a look suited

to all occasions, from leisure wear to evening wear.

Curvy cuts, clever colours and beautifully refined

finishes for a snappy, feminine look. Ready-to-wear

collections for men and women, children’s fashions,

accessories, lingerie, beach wear and homewear.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.

patriziapepe.com. Via Montenapoleone, 38. T: 02

76014477. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

PIOMBO – A twin-level Baroque-style store located in

an historic building in the heart of Milan’s shopping

hub. Sartorial made-to-measure collections and

a large assortment of silks, scarves and leather

accessories, also handcrafted, for men. Open

Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.

piomboworld.com. Via Montenapoleone, 23.

T: 02 76014932. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

PUPI SOLARI – In 1969, Pupi Solari, a woman of

exquisite taste, opened this children’s shop which

now also offers an eye-catching collection of

women’s clothing. The shop is connected to the

men’s boutique Host (see listings). They also have an

outlet right next door to the shop. Open Mon 3pm-

7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via L. Mascheroni, 12.

T: 02 463325. M1 Conciliazione. MAP C4

RUGGERI – Located in the heart of Milan, since 1938

it has catered to a discerning clientele of Milanese

and International customers. Offers a selection

of hard-to-find, supremely elegant, innovative

collections. For gentlemen in search of high quality

knitwear and beautifully tailored shirts. Open Mon

1pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

www.ruggeriabbigliamento.it. Piazza Duomo, 21. T:

02 86462173. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

28 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


MILAN LUXURY

LA DIAMANTERIA

This jewellery shop pays homage to the king of all stones even with its

name. Thanks to 23 jewellery showcases, the Diamanteria makes clear

what business it is in: classic pieces, such as tennis bracelets and solitaires,

and high-level design pieces created by hand. White, coloured and

black diamonds as well as precious stones, chocolate pearls and gold

allow for complete customization of pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm;

3pm-7.30pm. Map C4

www.ladiamanteria.com

Via Vincenzo Monti, 47

T: 02 466891

More info: www.wheremilan.com

DAMIANI

Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani boasts a longstanding tradition

in goldsmithing which it has always interpreted with an innovative

spirit. Clean-cut lines combined with a refined and classic though

contemporary elegance are the hallmark features of the Damiani

jewellery line showcased in its flagship store designed by Antonio

Citterio. The collections, displayed in a well-lit space and created

by master goldsmiths in keeping with the best Italian tradition, are

admired throughout the world. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

www.damiani.com

Via Montenapoleone, 10 – T: 02 76028088

More info: www.wheremilan.com

E. MARINELLA

Established in 1914, the Marinella brand is known throughout the

world for its stylish, hand-made neckties, worn by heads of state,

industrial magnates and celebrities. In addition to the legendary

shop – still located in Naples – and its sophisticated Milan

boutique, E. Marinella ties are also sold at its single-brand store

in Tokyo. New openings in Lugano from November 2010 and

in London at the beginning of 2011. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. M1 Cordusio. Map F5

www.marinellanapoli.it

Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 5 – T: 02 86467036

More info: www.wheremilan.com

FABRIANO BOUTIQUE

The boutique sells superlative quality luxury stationer’s items,

combining the high quality of Fabriano paper with materials,

such as leather and linen, to make even the most simple of

everyday items special. Products include diaries, bags, wallets,

notepads, photo albums, cards and an array of different articles

produced using only the most exclusive Italian raw. The perfect

place to rediscover the joy of writing. Open Mon-Sat 10am-

7.30pm; Sun 2.30pm-7.30pm. M1 Cairoli. Map E4

www.fabrianoboutique.com

Via Ponte Vetero, 17 – T: 02 76318754

More info: www.wheremilan.com

ADVERTISEMENT

www.wheretraveler.com 29


V. Mazzini

a

a

voia

. Losanna

. Poliziano

erruccio

V. Mussi

V. Fratelli Induno

V. Giulio C. Procaccini

Corso Sempione

V. A. Canova

Corso Magenta

V. San Vittore

V. F. Melzi D’Eril

incenzo Monti V. Vincenzo Monti

io Pagano

V. S. Michele del Carso

oppa

aiso

V. L. Castelvetro

ione

odossola

a

nni

III

V. Lodovico Ariosto

V. Lorenzo Mascheroni

V.le di Porta Vercellina

V. Montevideo

ndrea Solari

V. Nicolò Tartaglia

V. Paolo Lomazzo

V.le G. Milton

V. Gian Battista Vico

V. Giulio C. Procaccini

V. G. B. Bertini

V.le Papiniano V.le Papiniano

avona

V. Tasso

V. M. Bandello

V. Cerano

V. Monviso V. Monviso

V. F. Londonio

V. Andrea Massena V. Moscati

V. N. Machiavelli

V. G. Revere

V. Petrarca

V. P. Tamburini

V. G. Rovani

V. degli Olivetani

V.le Coni Zugna

Ventimiglia

V. A. Aleardi

V. E. Alemagna

30 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010

ortona

V. XX Settembre

P.za P.za

Conciliazione Giovine

onciliazione Italia Cenacolo

Vinciano

P.le F.

aracca

ia

C

Spazio Acqua

BULLONA

Shopping

P.za

Gerusalemme

L.go V

Alpini

Luxury shopping

Brera

P.za

Tommaseo

V. A. Saffi

V. B. Zenale

V. Luigi Nono

V. Paolo Sarpi V. Paolo Sarpi

V. G. Leopardi

V. de Togni

V. Olona

V. Ariberto

D

P.za

Coriolano

V. Messina

V. Rosmini

V. Luigi Canonica

V. A. Bertani

V. Carroccio

V.le G

V. Boccaccio

V. Giosuè Carducci

V. E. De Amicis

V. Ausonio

V. Messina

V.le Gabr

V. Simonetta

V. G. B. Niccolini

V. d’Oggiono

Corso C.

olombo Corso Genova

V. G. Giusti

V.le W. Goethe

V. Terraggio

V. S. Vincenzo

V. Lanzone

V. Cesare Sesto V. G. Ferrari

V. S. Calogero

Cimitero

Monumentale

This centrally located

district is named after via

L.go

Brera Gramsci which, since the 18th

century, L.go has C. housed the

Gadda

famous Accademia di Belle

L.go L.

Arti. One of the Medici liveliest

P.za S. S.

areas in the city, its narrow Trinità

cobbled streets host a

number of interesting chic

antique shops, galleries,

P.za

cafés, restaurants

P.za dei Sempione and bars.

Its neighbouring Volontari Arco streets,

Corpus della

Domini

Mon.

including corso Pace Garibaldi Napoleone

III

and corso Como, are home

Torre

to several of the Branca trendiest Parco

addresses in the city. Sempione

Museo Teatrale

alla Scala

V.le Elvezia

V.le Gadio

V.le Malta

Foro Buonaparte

Corso Magenta

V. Conca del Naviglio

P.le

Cimitero

Monumentale

V. S. Valeria

V. Ceresio

V.le Montello

V. Correnti

V. Arena

V. Bramante

V. P. Capuccio

V. Collodi

Corso di Porta Ticinese

V. Carlo Farini

Bastioni di

Porta Volta

V. Legnano

V.le Gadio

Castello

Sforzesco

Stazione

Cadorna

P.le

Malpensa Cadorna

Express Cadorna FNM

Triennale

S. Nicolao

S. Maria

della Grazie L.go P.

Palazzo

d’Ancona Litta

Palazzo

delle

Stelline

Triennale -

Palazzo

dell’Arte

PORTA

VOLTA

Arena

Civica

P.za

Baiamonti

P.le Lega

Lombarda

Acquario

Civico

Museo

d’Arte Antica

e Pinacoteca

P.za Castello

V. S.G.

sul Muro

V. S. M.

Porta

Museo

Archeologico

V.le Crispi

V. Alessandro Volta

Foro Buonaparte

V. Dante

V. Meravigli

Corso Garibaldi

V. Molino delle Armi

Corso Como

V. P. Borsieri

o Italia Corso Italia

Bastioni di Porta Nuova

V. Moscova V. Moscova

V. Sant’Orsola

V. Torino

V. Guglielmo Pepe

V. Maurizio Quadrio

V. Maroncelli

V.le Pasubio

Teatro

Strehler

Lanza

Brera

V. S. M.

Fulcorina

V. Pontaccio

V. Mercato

L.go

Cairoli

Cairoli

V. S. Maurillo

Parco delle

Basiliche

V. Santa Croce

V. Palermo

V. Solferino

V. Disciplini

V. Orefici

V. Torino

V. Cornaggia

V. Olmetto

Corso Garibaldi

V. F. Chiari

P.za S.

S. Vittore

Ambrogio

al Corpo

Basilica di

S. Ambrogio

Rosso Prezioso S. Ambrogio

Carceri

Università

Luisa Beccaria

P.za

Museo Nazionale

S. Vittore

Cattolica

Mentana

della Scienza

This small concept del Sacro Cuore

e della store Tecnica is perfect for

A brand boasting an unmistakable,

intellectual-chic shopping featuring the S. Bernardino

romantic and feminine style. High-fashion

best of Made-in-Italy. Under the creative alle and Monache prêt-a-porter L.go collections, painstaking

directorship of Cristina Bacchetti,

attention to detail Carrobbio and artisan embroidery

it offers original collections of high-fashion P.za represent Italian fashion throughout

Resistenza

costume jewellery featuring an elegant,

P.za

Partigiana the world. Also stocks Basilica bridal gowns and

S. innovative Agostino design. S. Agostino M2 Moscova-M3 Turati. children’s Antica clothing. Pta. M2 S. Lanza. Lorenzo (p. 28)

Ticinese

Maggiore

(p. 31 )

P.za

Parco

Vetra

Solari www.rossoprezioso.com

www.luisabeccaria.it

Via San Fermo, 1

Via Anfiteatro M. Formentini, 1

Teatro

Romano

T: 02 654841

T: 02 8638071

Libero

P.le

Cantore

Museo

Diocesano

E

S. Antonio

da Pádova

V.

Piatti

V. Broletto

V. Crocefisso

V. C. Del Fante

V. San Luca

Teatro del

Buratto

V. De Cristoforis

V. Solferino

S. Maria

Incoronata

L.go Moscova

La Foppa

V. Brera

V. dell’Orso

V.le Monte Grappa

V. San Marco

V. G. Verdi

Corso Porta Nuova

V. Fatebenefratelli

V. S.

Margherita

V. Confalonieri

V. De Castillia

Stazione

Porta Garibaldi

P.ta

Garibaldi FS

P.le XXVTeatro

Aprile Smeraldo

Porta

Garibaldi

PORTA

TENAGLIA

L.go

Treves

Basilica di San

Simpliciano

V.le L. Sturzo

V. Castelfidardo

Fondazione

Museo L.

Minguzzi Chiesa Anglicana

BRERA

Angela Caputi ●

Giuggiù

V. Montebello

P.za

S. Marco

Pinacoteca

di Brera

S. Maria


del

Luisa Beccaria Museo del

Carmine

Risorgimento

Montenapoleone

P.za

Borsa Cordusio

Biblioteca

Pinacoteca

Ambrosiana

Basilica S. Eustorgio

V. Albricci

Corso di Porta Romana

V. G. Mercalli

V. Santa Sofia

V. Melchiorre Gioia

Ospedale

Fatebenefratelli

V. Annunciata

V. Vignoni V

V. Alessandro Manzoni

voia

V. S. Calimero

V.le Monte Santo

V. Montenapoleone

V. Bigli

V. Larga

V. Sassetti

L.go De

Benedetti

Gioia

V. Appiani

V. F. Turati

Studio Museo Turati

Treccani

S. Marco Questura

Cordusio Emanuele II

Duomo Duomo

P.za del

Duomo

Palazzo

Reale

Pta.

Nuova

Teatro

alla Scala P.za L.go

della Scala

Mattioli

Pal. Marino

Municipio

Galleria

Vittorio

S. Satiro

F

Rosso Prezioso ●

Società per le

Belle Arti ed

Esposizione

Permanente

S. Angelo

Corso Matteotti

Corso V. Emanuele II

V. F. d. Perdono

V. Pirelli

PORTA

NUOVA

P.za

Angela Diaz Caputi

Giuggiù

V. Verziere

P.za S.

Stefano

V. Francesco Sforza

Corso Port

V. Galilei

V. Daniele Manin

V. Senato

V. della Spiga

no

V. S. Andrea

S. Babila

V. d. Signora

V.

Cardano

V. Gen. G. Fara

Repubblica

P.za della

Repubblica

P.za

Cavour

V. Palestro

V. Durini

Corso Europa

V. Cerva

V. Guastalla

Corso di Porta

V. Fabio Filzi

Corso Venezia

V. Visconti di M

V. della Commenda

V. Gal

Gratta

P

P.za S.

Gioachino Repubbli

American

Contourella

V.le T

V.le

V. M

Bas

Giardin

Pubblic

Civ

Galleria

d’Arte

Moderna

Palazzo

del Senato

P.za S.

Babila

V. S

Damian

V. Ronchetti

V. Ba

P.za

Missori

A brand renowned throughout the world.

Missori Torre

Sophisticated,

Giardino

Velasca original creations made

della

from unusual materials such Università as plastic

S. Naz.

Guastalla Sinagog

and resin, combined Maggiore to create unique

objects P.za both in terms of colour and shape.

Erculea P.za S. Ospedale

A magical blend of contemporary Nazaro and Maggiore

classical P.za S. taste. M2 Lanza. (p. 20 and 36) di Milano -

Eufemia

Policlinico

www.angelacaputi.com

Via Madonnina, 11

Teatro

S. Paolo S. Maria della

Carcano

Converso T: 02 86461080

Visitazione

Crocetta

G

Co

V. Fre

V. S

V.

V.


Shopping

TINCATI – An historic emporium since 1965, Tincati

incarnates the very style of Milan: sophisticated,

classic, elegant and unmistakable. For men who like

to make a low-key statement by focusing on details

that make the difference. Luxury men’s boutique in

the heart of Milan’s quadrilatero d’oro. Open Mon-

Sat 10am-7pm. www.tincati.mi.it. Via Gesù, 7.

T: 02 76028050. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

VIATIVOLI – A boutique boasting 3 sales points in the

city (via Orefici, corso Magenta, corso Genova) for

women’s clothing distinguished by femininity and

a touch of French flair. Open Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat

10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Orefici, 26. T: 02 86464543.

M1 Cordusio. MAP F5

Concept Stores

10 CORSO COMO – A unique and ever-expanding

mix of selling spaces grouped around a beautiful

courtyard in Corso Como’s pedestrian area. Worth

particular note are the Galleria Carla Sozzani, a book

store stocking design books, boutiques, musthave

luxury goods, a café and a restaurant. Open

Mon-Tues-Fri-Sat-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm; Wed-Thurs

10.30am-9pm. www.10corsocomo.com. Corso

Como, 10. T: 02 653531. M2 Garibaldi FS. MAP F2

CARGO – Home furnishings, books, perfumes, candles,

carpets and a sector dedicated to tropical plants.

An exotic open space reconverted from a famous

Milanese industrial factory but also a cultural centre

hosting discussions on art, food, music and games.

Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.hightechmilano.com.

Via A. Meucci, 39. T: 02 2722131.

M2 Crescenzago. OFF MAP

DISNEY STORE – Part of the International chain of

stores specializing in Disney products, several of

which are created exclusively for their shops. The

entire universe of Disney films and cartoons is

on offer with games, books, DVDs, puppets and

gadgets of all types. Open Mon-Sun 10am-8.30pm.

T: 02 76317908-218. www.disneystore.it. Corso

Vittorio Emanuele II, 30. M1 San Babila. MAP G5

on two floors, where you can find all the official

merchandise of the “most prominent club in the

world”. Special price discounts for fans of the Official

A.C. Milan Page on Facebook. Open: 7/7 from 10am-

8pm. www.acmilan.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele

II-Galleria San Carlo. T: 02 89765408. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP G5

MORONIGOMMA – A Milanese company of

longstanding tradition, boasting over 80 years

of experience in the production of high quality

plastic materials. It offers a wide assortment of

home and office equipment, original gift ideas

and customized solutions. Delivers all over the

world. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

www.moronigomma.it. Corso G. Matteotti, 14.

T: 02 796220. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

MUJI – Distinguished by its minimalist design and ecofriendly

approach, this store is a part of the famous

chain of “made-in-Japan” furniture, clothing and

high-tech items, with 3 stores in the city (via Torino,

corso Buenos Aires, corso Vercelli). Muji’s strategy

is based on low-key design and functionalism at

affordable prices. Open Mon 12am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat

10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.muji.eu.

Via Torino, 51. T: 02 809441. M1 Cordusio. MAP F5

NELLA LONGARI HOME – An elegant display area in

the heart of Milan, offering a rich picking of home

accessories. Innovative materials and vibrant colours,

in a range of traditional and contemporary options,

often featuring bold combinations of plastics and

ceramics, silver and fabrics. Worth particular note

are its rattan objects imported from Burma. Open

Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm.

T: 02 782066. www.nellalongari.com. Via Bigli, 12.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

SPOTLIGHT

NUMERO UNO MILANO – Established in 1984 in

the heart of Milan’s Chinatown”, this dealership is a

“must” destination for Harley-Davidson fans. Unique,

unconventional motorbikes that embody the

Harley-Davidson spirit to the full: a look at the past

projected towards the future. Several sales points

in the same road (Motorbike Sales: Via Niccolini, 28;

Accessories: Via Niccolini, 30; Clothing: Via Niccolini,

33 corner of via Fioravanti). Open Mon-Fri 9am-

12.30am/2pm-7pm; Sat 9.30-12.30am/3pm-7pm.

www.numerounomilano.it. Via Niccolini, 28. T: 02

349871. M2 Moscova. MAP D2

ROSSO PREZIOSO – Just a few steps from Via Brera,

this small concept store is perfect for intellectualchic

shopping featuring the best of Made-in-Italy.

Under the creative directorship of Cristina Bacchetti,

it offers original collections of high-fashion costume

jewellery featuring an elegant, innovative design.

Creative themes, materials and colours are updated

regularly in accordance with the latest trends.

In addition to costume jewellery, it also stocks a

delightful selection of fashion accessories and

clothing.Open Mon 1pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

www.rossoprezioso.com. Via San Fermo, 1. T: 02

654841. M2 Moscova-M3 Turati. MAP F3

SPAZIO ROSSANA ORLANDI – Located in an old

building in the Magenta district, the Space is

dedicated to avant garde interior design, including

designer furniture, tableware and lamps. The nearby

bar-restaurant “Pane e Acqua” is furnished with

contemporary design objects and vintage tables,

signed by Paola Navone (open Mon-Sat 12.30am-

3.30pm/8pm-10pm. T: 02 48198622). Open Mon-Fri

10am-7pm. T: 02 4674471. www.rossanaorlandi.

com. Via M. Bandello, 14/16. M1 Conciliazione, M2

Sant’Ambrogio. MAP C5

FERRARI STORE MILANO – Dedicated to Ferrari

devotees, this authorized sales point of the historic

Maranello headquarters sells over three thousand

types of Ferrari merchandise including clothing,

leather goods, high-class accessories, toys and

models. From a minimum of 4.5 euros for a logoed

writing pad up to 40 thousand for a Formula 1

engine. A visit to this futuristic, five-storey, location,

expressing the explosive soul of car racing, is

definitely a worthwhile experience. Open Sun-Fri,

10am-8pm; Sat 10am-9pm. http://store.ferrari.com.

Piazza Liberty, 8. T: 02 76017385. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP G5

HIGH TECH – A large multi-space emporium selling

sofas, bookshelves, fragrances, notebooks, lamps,

kitchenware but also ethnic furniture and fashion

accessories. Original, innovative home furnishings at

affordable prices. Open Mon 1.30am-7.30pm; Tues-

Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.high-techmilano.com.

Piazza XXV Aprile, 12. T: 02 6241101. M2 Moscova, M2

Garibaldi. MAP F2

MILAN (MILAN A.C.) MEGASTORE – A “not-to-bemissed”

address for A.C. Milan fans the world over:

located in the historic Galleria, behind the Duomo,

the shop boasts a display area of over 500 sq.m.

Nespresso in the City of Design

When Nespresso first appeared in Italy, marketing experts were

skeptical as to whether this new way of making “espresso” would be

successful. But it was. Right here in Milan, at the Salone del Mobile,

“designer of the year” , Konstantin Grcic initially formed his relationship

with the brand. Discover his collection in the four Milan-based

Nespresso Boutiques! www.nespresso.com. Galleria San Babila 4/D,

Via Bigli 1, La Rinascente, Coin.

www.wheretraveler.com 31


Shopping

Side and below:

SERGIO ROSSI

Beautifully crafted, comfortable, eye-catching

footwear designed for women and men (p. 44))

LARUSMIANI CONCEPT BOUTIQUE

The perfect place to built your wardrobe

with exclusive pieces: Larusmiani takes luxury

retail to a new level. (p. 28 and 45)

TAD CONCEPTSTORE – A small-scale luxury

department store and one of the hippest in the

district. It carries only the finest in high-design

furniture and fashion and includes a restaurant,

offering revisited regional food, a beauty area but

also an entirely glass-fronted Lounge Gallery which

hosts art, music, design and fashion events. Open

Tues-Sat 10.30am-1pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 65506731.

www.taditaly.com. Via Statuto, 12. M2 Moscova.

MAP F3

TADDY’S HARLEY-DAVIDSON – A young dynamic

official Harley-Davidson and Buell dealership. Over

15 years of passion and professionalism dedicated to

these fabulous twin bikes boasting over one century

of history. Motorbikes, accessories, spare parts,

assistance and clothing. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-

Fri 9-12.30am/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 9.30am-1pm/3pm-

6pm. www.harley-davidson-milano.com. Via Savona,

97. T: 02 48958359. M2 Porta Genova FS. OFF MAP •

BORGOGNA STORE a destination store dedicated

exclusively to high-tech, practical apparel where you

can Indulge your every whim with timeless leather

jackets, bikers’ jackets and jeans, T-shirts, shirts,

sweatshirts, underwear, gadgets and much more

besides. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

www.harley-davidson-milano.com. Via Borgogna, 5.

T: 02.36.53.69.38. M1 San Babila. MAP G5

VESPA STORE – This boutique in the heart of Milan is

dedicated to the chicest two wheels in the world.

The Vespa , meaning “wasp” in Italian, derived

its name from the vehicle’s body shape and the

high-pitched noise of the two-stroke engine. An

icon, since 1946, of design and Italian style, it is sold

throughout the world. In addition to stocking the

legendary scooter manufactured by Piaggio, it also

sells accessories and gadgets: sweatshirts, tops,

bags, watches, mugs and plaques. Open Mon 3pm-

7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.

vespa.com. Viale V. Veneto, 12. T: 02-29513036. M1

Porta Venezia. MAP H3

ZARA HOME – The fans of minimalist, sophisticated,

original design at affordable prices will have a field

day at the new Zara Home store. On 7 October, the

famous Spanish clothing label finally opened a 600

sq.m home store in the heart of Milan, bordering

on the fashion quad. The latest trends in bedding

(featuring an unrivalled range of solid colour items),

bathroom, tableware and living room merchandise.

Also stocks a vast selection of accessories ranging

from magazine racks to candles. Open 7 days a

week. 10am-9pm. Piazza San Babila, 5. T: 02 76022740.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

Cosmetics

DIEGO DALLA PALMA – Diego Dalla Palma, celebrity

make-up artist of world fame, has his own studio in

the heart of Milan’s Brera district. His all-Italian style,

sophisticated and classic but also contemporary,

is played out on contrasts. Defined by the New

York Times as “The Guru of make-up made in

Italy”, his entire collection is futuristic, unique,

sophisticated and natural looking. His superior

make-up products guarantee an excellent end

result with the whole being completed by a range

of accessories. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. www.

diegodallapalma.it. Via Madonnina, 15. T: 02 876818.

M2 Lanza. MAP F3

GIORGIO ARMANI – Giorgio Armani’s prestigious

boutique can be found in the centre of Milan’s

fashion district. This legend of “Made-in-Italy”

elegance and style requires no introduction. The

superlative quality of his cosmetics and fragrances

for men and women are guaranteed by the Armani

brand name. Expert consultants are available to

offer you advice about the store’s host of body,

face and make-up products. Open Mon-Sun

10am-7pm. www.armani-viamanzoni31.it.

Via A. Manzoni, 31. T: 02 723181.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE – This cosmetics

company, founded in France in 1976, has three

stores in Milan, all of which are very central and easily

accessible by the underground. Their welcoming

shops offer a vast selection of natural products:

soaps, face and body creams, perfumes and

maquillage. Their karité butter based creams are

absolutely fantastic. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;

Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.loccitane.com.

Via Dante, 12. T: 02 809913. M1 Cordusio. MAP E5

MADINA – The ideal place to browse amidst lipsticks

and eye-pencils. Brightly coloured and ultra-trendy,

Madina offers everything that a woman could desire,

from the most classic make-up to the quirkiest. It

also has a make-up school where you can learn the

secrets of the trade from expert make-up artists. The

lesson lasts one hour and is held every day, also in

English, with a choice of times from between 11am

to 5pm. Three locations the city (via Meravigli, corso

Venezia, via Tivoli). www.madina.it. Via Meravigli

corner of corso Magenta. T: 02 86915438. M1

Cordusio. MAP E5

SEPHORA – The fabulous Sephora beauty store,

with branches throughout the world, will not go

unnoticed. Free access to all products and hostesses

available for expert advice. A vast selection of

products and samples galore. You can also have your

nails and eyebrows done (booking required). Open

Mon-Sun 9.30am-10pm. www.sephora.it. Corso

Vittorio Emanuele II, 24/28. T: 02 76280495. M1 San

Babila. MAP G5

Electronics

FNAC – A multi-media megastore located in the

centre of town. It stocks the latest in CDs, DVDs,

videogames, cell phones, computers, TVs, Hi-Fi,

photographic equipment and camcorders. It also

sells books (foreign language sections available) and

32 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Shopping

has a ticket office. Corner Internet cafè located on

the second floor. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8pm; Sun

10am-8pm. www.fnac.it. Via Torino 45. T: 02 869541.

M1-M3 Duomo. MAP E6

MEDIA WORLD – Megastore belonging to the most

important consumer electronics chain in Italy. It

carries a wide choice of products inc TVs, small and

large electrical appliances, Hi-Fi systems, cameras

and camcorders, GPS and computers but also

books, CDs, DVDs and videogames. Open Mon-Fri

9.30am-9pm/Sat 9am-9pm. www.mediaworld.it.

Viale C. Troya, 18. T: 02 42208111. MAP A7

MONDADORI MULTICENTER – An innovative

type of megastore offering a vast range of

items but also consultancy and assistance. The

Mondadori Multicenter embodies the entire

universe of media: DVDs, CDs, international

newspapers and magazines, PCs, telephones,

electronics, computers, digital cameras and

games, gift ideas and books but also relaxation

areas, a café and Internet points. • MULTICENTER

DUOMO extends over 5 floors and has an events

area, a children’s play area and an entire floor

hosting an international art bookshop. www.

negozimondadori.it. Open Mon-Sun 7am-11pm

(ground floor); Mon-Sun 9am-11pm. Piazza

Duomo, 1. T: 02 454411. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP G5 •

MULTICENTER MARGHERA Open Mon noon to

midnight; Tues-Sun 10am-midnight. Via Marghera,

28. T: 02 480471. M1 De Angeli. MAP A4

PHOTO-DISCOUNT MILANO – Established in 1967,

though originally specialized in imaging, Photo-

Discount Milano is now a real multi-media store

dealing in computers, astronomy, audio/video

systems, TVs, camcorders and photo processing.

Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 9.30am-

12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-13pm/3pm-

7.30pm. www.photo-discount.org. Piazza De

Angeli, 3. T: 02 48006300. M1 De Angeli. MAP A4

VERTU – A highly exclusive boutique at which you

can purchase the entire range of products created

by the icon-maker of luxury mobile systems,

from its up-market cell phones (limited edition

pieces also available) to its dedicated accessories.

Technical assistance also available. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. www.vertu.com. Via Montenapoleone,

29. T: 02 7773171. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

Eyewear

CRISAFULLI EYEWEAR – The ideal place for those

in search of the latest innovations in eyewear but

also artistic and jewelled frames for collectors.

Limited editions also available. (SUN, another

Crisafulli branch, specializing in sunglasses, can

be found in the same area in Galleria Pattari, 2.T:

02 86454911). Open Mon 2.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Sat

9am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.15pm. www.otticacrisafulli.it

Galleria del Corso, 4. T: 02 76023682. M1 San Babila.

MAP G5

OTTICA ARTIOLI – A reference point for eyewear

in Milan for over 50 years. An inspired selection

of designer glasses and sunglasses and contact

lenses. It also stocks binoculars, compasses,

barometers and GPS navigation systems. Open

Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.

otticaartioli.it. Piazza XXV Aprile, 12. T: 02 29002952.

M2 Moscova. MAP F2

OCCHIALI PRIVATI – For those who wish to enhance

their image and make it unique, without hiding

behind “the usual glasses”, this is the place to

go. Express your personality with the utmost in

originality. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat

10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.occhialiprivati.

it. Via G. Washington, 11. T: 02 2846368. M1 Wagner.

MAP B5

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ – One of the best-known

opticians in Italy, with 14 stores scattered throughout

the city, it offers a vast range of glasses, sunglasses

and contact lenses. Limited editions and exclusive

previews of the best international brands also

available. A new pair of glasses in just 60 minutes plus

personalized aesthetic advice. Open Mon-Sat 9am-

8pm; Sun 10am-8pm. www.salmoiraghievigano.it.

Piazza San Babila corner of corso G. Matteotti. T: 02

76000100. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

Florists

AU NOM DE LA ROSE – A tiny shop, open 7 days a

week, which, each morning, receives thousands of

rose buds from all over the world. Elegant bouquets,

bunches of all sizes, sophisticated compositions put

together by the creativity of expert hands. It also

offers a number of products made from flowers

such as cosmetics, perfumes, herbal teas, jams,

sweets, chocolates and soaps. The only boutique

in Milan offering rose-based gourmandises. Open

Mon-Sun 9am-8.30pm. www.aunomdelarose.com.

Piazza Wagner, 1. T: 02 48009254. M1 Wagner.

MAP B4

CLINICA DEL BONSAI – An institution in Milan for the

sale and care of bonsai trees. Special accessories

and equipment but also fresh flowers and a variety

of plants from all over the world. At Christmas, it

sells floral compositions, centrepieces and unusual

Christmas trees. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7.30pm.

www.fellafiorimilano.com. Via Carducci, 12. Tel: 02

86453072. M1 Cadorna FN. MAP D5

LE LUIRE – “Le Luire” or rather “Sparkles”. A passion

for flowers, professionalism and a flair for making

unforgettable floral creations. For those in

search of a florist who understands how to make

important occasions even more special with

beautiful bouquets, bunches of flowers and floral

compositions put together with taste and originality.

Open Mon 2pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun

9am-1pm. www.leluire.sitiwebs.com.

Via Piero della Francesca, 40. T: 02 347010.

MAP C1

MONCEAU FLEURS – A name of international

renown, Monceau Fleurs also has a shop in Milan

and will sell you flowers until late in the evening, at

any time of the year. It carries over 300 varieties of

plants and flowers, exclusive collections of bouquets

and trendy floral compositions. Open 7 days, 9am to

9pm. For direct shipping, ask your hotel concierge.

www.monceaufleurs.it.Viale Bianca Maria corner via

Raiberti. T: 02 76021753. MAP H4

PAOLO LATTUADA – A real flower boutique and one

of the most exclusive in the city. The shop, owned by

the artist-gardener, Paolo Lattuada offers customers

an emotional experience, drawing inspiration from

essential elements such as the air, stones and water:

a creative laboratory for highly original, sophisticated

creations. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 9.30am-

Italian Design

Credit for the consummate success achieved

by “Made-in-Italy” worldwide goes to all

those Italian companies which, during the

Twentieth Century, revolutionized each and

every sector of industrial design, creating

and signing pieces that are recognized

throughout the world for their quality,

creativity and attention to detail.

In fact, it is not mere chance that Milan,

considered one of the design capitals of the

world, is home to all of the most important

names in the field of industrial and interior

design: CASSINA, associated since the

very beginning with masters of the calibre

of Gio’ Ponti and Le Corbusier; FONTANA

ARTE, a pioneer in the innovative use of

glass in lighting technology; AZUCENA,

which has produced the furniture of several

of Italy’s most famous architects; ARFLEX,

whose foam rubber revolutionized the

padded furniture industry: O LUCE, with

its catalogue of timeless lighting systems;

KARTELL, which made plastic an art form;

TECNO, with its modular furniture; È DE

PADOVA, which introduced Milan to the

supremely light elegance of Nordic design;

SIMON, which has always considered design

as a cultural spearhead; POLTRONOVA,

with its commitment to design as artistic

experimentation, renowned worldwide

for its armchair inspired by Joe Di Maggio’s

glove; DANESE, with its revolutionary desk

objects; ARTEMIDE which, way back in

1967, received a design Oscar for its Eclisse

lamp; ZANOTTA, the author of irreverent,

playful shapes at the beginning of the

‘70’s. GUFRAM, visionary manufacturers of

sculpture-furniture; FLOS, which endowed

light with new expressive forms; FLOU,

inventor of the “textile” bed’; ALESSI which,

thanks to the best signatures on the

International scene, wrote the history of

design by giving kitchen utensils a totally

new and modern look; DRIADE, which

not only discovered Philippe Starck but

also several other famous contemporary

architects and designers; LUCEPLAN,

which transformed lamps into supremely

beautiful high-precision toys; CAPPELLINI,

with its innovative ideas for interior design;

MOROSO, which, since the fifties, has

tirelessly innovated its superior quality

upholstered furniture and interior accessories

and EDRA, renowned, for the past twenty

years, as an icon of contemporary furniture.

1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.paololattuada.it. Via Molino

delle Armi, 19. T: 02 58305078. M3 Crocetta. MAP F6

VIVAIO SORELLE RIVA – Situated just a short distance

from the “Colonne di San Lorenzo”, a magical

place, patronized by the Milanese for generations.

Plants and flowers of rare beauty, exhibitions, book

launches, dinners, performances, musical evenings/

aperitivi but also entertainment for children. In

addition to an outdoor garden, in winter it also offers

a warm, romantic winter garden. Open Mon-Sat

9.30am-12.30am/2.30pm-6.30pm. www.vivaioriva.it.

Via Arena, 7. T: 02 58101141. M2 Sant’Agostino. MAP E6

www.wheretraveler.com 33


Shopping

Food & Wine

ENOTECA COTTI – A “not-to-be-missed” address for

wine lovers. Opened in 1906, Cotti is one of the best

stocked wine bars in the city. Enter an old-world

atmosphere, boasting impressively stocked shelves

and an extraordinary selection of wines and spirits. In

addition to wine and champagne, it also offers a wide

array of grappa, whisky, cognac, rum and liqueurs

from all over the world. You can also purchase

gastronomic specialities as well as typical Italian cakes

and pastries. Closed on Sun and Mon. Via Solferino,

42. T: 02 6572995 or 29001096. M2 Moscova. MAP F2

GASTRONOMIA ROSSI & GRASSI – One of the

most famous delicatessens in the city thanks to its

extraordinary selection of goodies from all over Italy,

especially cheese, cold cuts, wine and olive oil. Its

house specialities and wonderful ready-made dishes

are also worth a try. Closed on Sun. www.rossiegrassi.

it. Via Ponte Vetero, 4. T: 02 86462247. M1 Cairoli.

MAP F4

PECK – A paradise for food lovers. At this high-class

delicatessen, for years an authentic temple of Milanese

taste, you will find the best of Italian excellence, from

cured meats to sauces, from wines to liqueurs, from

cheeses to olive oil. Spread out over three floors, Peck

is also a great place for an unforgettable stopover,

thanks to its large sampling areas. The search for

quality is Peck’s primary aim, achieved through a

careful selection of products from all over the world.

A totally worthwhile gastronomic experience. Closed

on Sun. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161.

M1-M3 Duomo; M1 Cordusio. MAP F5

SARZI AMADÈ – An address where wine lovers can

purchase a selection of rare bottles. Established in

1966, since 1982 it has imported and distributed a

sought-after selection of specialties originating from

Borgogne, Alsace, Bordeaux (approx. 200 Chateaux),

the Loire valley and Provence. The establishment’s

portfolio also includes aquavitae and a number of

spirits, including cognac, Martinique rum and Scottish

whisky (about 100 distilleries), rum aged in Britain by

expert distillers and the rare “Independent Bottle”

whisky. Closed on Sun. www.sarziamade.it. Via N.

Oxilia, 25/27. T: 02 26113396. M1 Pasteur. OFF MAP

SPAZIO SCARPITTI – This is the most trendy, young and

bohemian wine bar in Milan. Run by Fabio Scarpitti,

renowned sommelier and talent scout, and his wife,

Paola. It offers a large selection of labels featuring two

important characteristics: all the wines are personally

sourced and selected by Fabio from unknown

producers. All the wines on offer are excellent value

for money. In addition to wine, it also stocks some rare

pearls like Amaro Toccasana Negro and beer made

by the monks of Cascinazza di Buccinasco. Closed on

Sun. www.scarpittidistribuzione.it. Via Petrocchi, 21.

T: 02 28510470. M1 Turro. OFF MAP

Home Decor & Fabrics

ALESSI – The art of living according to a company that

has always been defined as an “art factory”. It offers

tableware, small electrical appliances, cooking utensils

and bathroom accessories signed by some of the

most renowned names in international design. Alessi

is famed for its surprising, innovative and playful

inventions, the hallmark feature of the brand. Open

Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.alessi.com.

Corso G. Matteotti, 9. Tel: 02 795726. M1 San Babila.

MAP G4

ARFORM – Opened it doors in 1955 and is still a

wonderful oasis of Scandinavian design in the heart

of Milan. It mainly offers objects for the home but

also a range of personal items. You will find cool, sleek

table linens in natural colours, glorious cotton items,

stylish tableware from Finland and the latest kitchen

implements from Denmark. It also stocks strikingly

beautiful glassware and wooden items enhanced by

the skilful use of colour. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat

10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.arform.it. Via Moscova, 22.

Tel: 02 6554691. M2 Moscova. MAP F3

ARTEMIDE – Located inside the historic Palazzo Poldi

Pezzoli, the shop is given over entirely to lighting.

Lamps and light systems boasting cutting-edge

technology plus a design consultancy service for

architects, lighting designers and members of the

industry. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

www.artemide.com. Via A. Manzoni, 12.

T: 02 778712201. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

B&B ITALIA – Extending over a surface area of one

thousand, seven hundred square metres, this elegant,

multi-level store, situated right in the very heart of

Milan, also offers an outdoor area. It stocks a wide

range of furnishing items created by Antonio Citterio,

Naoto Fukasawa, Patricia Urquiola and Vincent van

Duysen. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm.

www.bebitalia.it. Via Durini, 14. T: 02 7644411. M1 San

Babila. MAP G5

CASSINA – An elegant, sophisticated space, located in

the highly central Via Durini, for a brand that boasts

over 80 years in the industry. There is something to

excite the eyes of all design lovers (including the

legendary chaise longue by Le Corbusier). Cassina

continues to produce sophisticated, elegant furniture

created by some of the best designers in the world.

Open Mon 2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.

cassina.com. Via Durini, 16. T: 02 76020745. M1 San

Babila. MAP G5

CHRISTOFLE – Just a short distance from the

highly central Piazza San Babila, Christofle evokes

innovative modern design and the elegance of times

gone by with its beautifully crafted silver cutlery,

tableware, crystal jewellery and gift objects. Over

time it has become increasingly oriented towards

contemporary design. Among the latest innovations,

cutlery and candelabra resulting from a collaboration

agreement with the young, visionary French designer

Ora Ito. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

www.christofle.com. Corso Venezia, 6. T: 02 781948.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

DA DRIADE – A cult store for the globally designaddicted

offering furniture, objets d’art and

accessories designed by some of the biggest names

on the international design scene. The merchandise

is showcased with a unique style, inspired by art and

the cinema. An absolute “must” even if only to admire

the contrast between items by Fukasawa, Sipek,

Starck and the extraordinary 18th century frescoes of

the palazzo in which the shop is located. Open Mon

3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.driade.com. Via

A. Manzoni, 30. T: 02 76023098. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP F4

È DE PADOVA – A temple of high-class Italian design,

each floor of its flagship store is dedicated to a specific

sector – bedroom furniture, living-room furniture,

accessories, office furniture – all featuring simple,

clean-cut, classic contemporary lines. Prime examples

are the items designed by Vico Magistretti. In addition

to its own brand, it also offers a small selection of

limited edition accessories chosen from among the

best brands. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-

2pm/3pm-7pm. www.depadova.it. Corso Venezia, 14.

T: 02 777201. M1 San Babila, M1 Palestro. MAP H3

EDRA – One of Milan’s best kept secrets, hidden away

in the heart of the old Brera district, Edra offers

amazing, futuristic furniture. Set against a surreal

background, we find the huge sofas by Francesco

Binfarè, the flower armchairs by Masanori Umeda and

the sleek Paesaggi Italiani bookshelves by Massimo

Morozzi, art director of the company. Open Mon-

Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7pm. www.edra.com. Via

Ciovassino, 3. T: 02 86995122. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP F4

FLOS – A hallmark symbol of design applied to

lighting. Since the Sixties, it has offered elegant light

collections resulting from collaboration with the best

international designers inc Achille Castiglioni, Antonio

Citterio, Jasper Morrison and Philippe Starck. Open

Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30-1pm/3pm-7.30pm.

www.flos.com. Corso Monforte, 9. T: 02 76003639.

M1 San Babila. MAP H4

FONTANA ARTE – Just a steps from the Duomo,

customers will find themselves immersed in an

immaculate, almost museum-like space. The

protagonists of this Italian luxury lighting brand

are its lamps, crafted mainly from steel and glass,

based on an idea of discreet, functional elegance

that has withstood not only the test of time but also

passing fads to remain a leader in advanced glass

manufacturing and lighting design since 1932. Open

Mon 2pm-7pm; Tus-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm.

www.fontanaarte.it. Via Santa Margherita, 6.

T: 02 86464551. M1 Cordusio. MAP F5

KARTELL – This is the flagship store of a brand that

has become a household name worldwide. It

offers furniture, accessories and lamps, designed

by designers of international renown, interpreted

in a wide array of different colours. One of its latest

innovations includes shoes made entirely in plastic.

Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.

kartell.it. Via F.Turati, corner of via C. Porta, 1.

T: 02 6597916. M3 Turati. MAP G3

POLTRONA FRAU – Located in the heart of Milan, since

the very beginning Poltrona Frau has been a symbol

of Italian artisan elegance. In addition to its cult

34 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


MILAN STYLE

LINGOTTINO

Established in 1990, it offers handcrafted jewellery based on its

own designs. Precious accessories and unique items ranging from

mini-earrings to diamond chokers, created with the utmost care.

Its growing customer portfolio celebrates its success in the

creation of sophisticated, minimalist masterpieces. Situated

between via Torino and corso Magenta, located inside a sixteenth

century palazzo, it is open from Monday to Sunday with the

following schedule: Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-

7pm. M1 Cordusio. Map E5

www.lingottino.it

Via Santa Marta, 10 – T: 02 72022203

More info: www.wheremilan.com

PETTINAROLI

Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, it is

considered one of the oldest venues in the city. The shop has

been a reference point for style and elegance in writing paper,

business cards and printed documents, desk items and photo

albums in beautifully handcrafted leather according to timehonoured

Italian tradition. The basement floor houses a vast

assortment of prints and antique maps. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

www.fpettinaroli.it • www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com

Piazza San Fedele, 2 (entrance from via T. Marino)

T: 02 86464642-1875

More info: www.wheremilan.com

STIVALERIA SAVOIA

Founded in the 1920s as the official bootmaker to the Savoy regiment,

it is the shoemaker-of-choice for all those who are passionate about

hunting, riding or polo. Today, it makes bespoke all-purpose boots

and shoes handcrafted by artisans. The establishment carries both

ready-to-wear and made-to-measure collections. In addition to

footwear, it also sells dresses, shirts and small leather goods, also

customized to suit individual requirements. Open Mon 3-7pm; Tues-

Sat 9.30am-1.30pm; 2.30-7pm. M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4

www.stivaleriasavoia.it

Via Petrarca, 7 corner of via V. Monti – T: 02 463424

More info: www.wheremilan.com

BORSALINO

Historic Italian company synonymous with “hats” the world over.

Each piece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, created with an

artisan touch, the result of in-depth research that harmonizes

fabrics, materials and colours. Open Mon and Sun 10am-2pm;

3pm-7pm. Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.borsalino.it. Galleria Vittorio

Emanuele II. T: 02 89015436. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

www.borsalino.it

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II – T: 02 89015436

More info: www.wheremilan.com

ADVERTISEMENT

www.wheretraveler.com 35


Shopping

leather armchairs, it also stocks a rich collection of

sofas, beds, tables, desks and accessories designed

for elegant, sophisticated interiors, where design is

synonymous with wellbeing. Open Mon 2.30pm-

7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.poltronafrau.com.

Via Durini, 1: T: 02 6570626. M1 San Babila. MAP G5

SPAZIO PONTACCIO – Overlooking Via Pontaccio,

it stocks an interesting mix of international and

Italian classic and modern design furniture.

French-style decò drawers stand alongside warm,

contemporary tables, sofas and bookshelves. An

inspirational selection of accessories. For those

who enjoy fusion with style. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.spaziopontaccio.it. Via

Pontaccio, 18. T: 02 8057025. M2 Lanza. MAP F3

SWAROVSKI – Overlooking the historic Galleria

Vittorio Emanuele, an iconic symbol of luxury

shopping, it offers the best of precision-cut crystal

glass and related luxury objects inc jewellery,

key rings, watches, objets d’art and, naturally, the

famous animal figurine collectables. Open Mon-Fri

10am-7.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.swarovski.

com. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 6. T: 02 72094386.

M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

VENINI – The art of glass-making. The new

collections and the historic pieces of this

time-honoured brand, founded in 1921 and

considered one of the classics of Made-in-Italy,

are showcased against a neutral, minimalist

background. Vases, centrepieces and sculptures

crafted by internationally renowned artists and

designers and master glassmakers specialized in

the most sophisticated Murano glass working

techniques. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat

10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.venini.com. Via

Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76000539. M1 San Babila.

MAP G4

VILLEROY BOCH – The hallmark features of Villeroy

& Boch are quality, image, elegance, harmony and

design. The company boasts years of experience

in the field of product design and interior design.

Courteous service and an array of innovative

products, Villeroy Boch epitomizes elegance and

sophistication. Over the years, it has developed

from a manufacturer of high-quality ceramic

products to an internationally renowned lifestyle

brand. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.villeroyboch.com.

Via Montebello, 35. T: 02 65584928. M3

Turati. MAP F3

Jewellery & Watches

ADAMAS GIOIELLI – Old artisan workshop, a creator

of made-to-order objects in gold, embellished

with precious stones. Unique, creative fashion

pieces, for a discerning clientele. Open Tues-Fri

9.30am-7pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30am/3pm-7pm.

www.adamasgioielli.it. Via Speronari, 7.

T: 02 8692784. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

ALDO CITTERIO – An expert in silver and antique

jewellery. In keeping with the tradition of the “old

artisan workshops in via Orefici” it carries original

jewellery and unusual accessories, several of which

are created directly in its atelier. Open Mon 3pm-

7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm. www.aldocitterio.it. Via

Orefici, 18. T: 02 809225. M1 Cordusio. MAP F5

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ – The brand is

renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated,

original creations made from unusual materials

such as plastic and resin, combined to create

unique objects both in terms of colour and shape.

Her creations have been used as accessories

by famous television and film producers. The

accessory as a focal point, capable of creating

a look or dressing up any type of garment. A

magical blend of contemporary and classical

taste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Mon

3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1pm; 2.30pm-7.30pm.

www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11. T: 02

86461080. M2 Lanza. MAP F4

ARGENTERIE BOGGIALI – This century-old trademark

proposes classic lines in silver and luxurious crystal

collections but also modern design objects for a

younger clientele. Open Tues-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-

7pm. www.boggiali.it. Via Torino, 34. T: 02 801491.

M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

BREIL – A single-brand store offering products made

by the Italian leader in watchmaking and high-class

stainless steel jewellery. Italian design and Swiss

production. Among its most popular items, worth

particular note is its Milano collection, inspired by

the city’s metropolitan dynamism and, in some

models, embellished with small diamonds. Open

Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.breil.com.

Corso Vercelli, 31. T: 02 4812599. M1 Pagano. MAP B4

BUCCELLATI – Heir to a tradition that dates

back to the 18th century and a favourite with

the royal families of Europe, Buccellati offers

stunning designs featuring a “tulle, lace or

honeycomb” effect. Also known for its silver and

extraordinary animal collections. Open Mon-Sat

10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.buccellati.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76002153. M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

BULGARI – Among the most noteworthy names in

the world together with Cartier and Tiffany, since

the very beginning, Bulgari has been a reference

point for luxury jewellery. It also carries watches,

fragrances, accessories and small table items. Its

most famous collection is the “Bzero1”, originally

crafted in gold and subsequently embellished with

diamonds and precious stones. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. www.bulgari.com. Via Montenapoleone,

2. T: 02 777001. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

CARTIER – In addition to its jewellery, Cartier is also

famous as a luxury maker of watches, second only

in the world to Rolex. Renowned for its design and

technology, Cartier’s steel watches are embellished

with details in gold, platinum and diamonds. Open

Mon 3pm-7pm; Fri-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cartier.it.

Via Montenapoleone corner of via del Gesù.

T: 02 3030421. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

COLOMBO GIOIELLIERI – A trend-setter in fine

jewellery for the past fifty years. It carries the gold

“i gioiellini” collection dedicated to a younger

clientele together with a vast assortment of

costume jewellery from the Reminescence

collection. It also stocks Toy Watch and Ike

timepieces. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm.

PROEDICOMUNICAZIONE – PHOTO BY ANDREA DEL COTTO

Pinko • Laltramoda • Flavio Castellani

Manila Grace • French Connection • Seven

Custo • Vero Moda • Object • Met

Via V. Monti, 47 ~ Via Belfiore, 7 ~ Via Lorenteggio, 55

Corso Genova, 15

36 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


19 Fiera

V. Senofonte

Siro

Africa

12 Milano 1

3

P.za G.

22 23 Amendola 2

11

Palazzo

P.le Giulio

P.le

dello

P.le

3 P.za VI Cesare V.le Belisario

Arduino

Sport Amendola Febbraio

10

Italia 4 Fiera Sacra Shopping

9

Under Construction

Famiglia

L

P.za

(2007 – 2014) 5

P.za

Sempione

Giovanni

P.za dei

8 7 6

XXIII

Volontari Arco

Luxury shopping

San

L.go V. Senofonte

Corpus della

Siro

Africa

Casa P.za

Domini Pace

Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera 3

P.za G.

Verdi Buonarroti

Amendola

Buonarroti

P.le Giulio

Torre

Cesare V.le Belisario

Branca

Amendola 4

S. Pietro

This area, beginning

in Sala

Fiera

Pagano

Sacra

L.go V

at Porta Magenta, is

Famiglia

P.za Alpini

Trie

Wagner

Pala P.z

Concilia

one of Milan’s chicest,

P.za

Wagner

dell

De Angeli

PORTAConciliazione

most upmarket

Casa P.za De Angeli

P.za

MAGENTA

Buonarroti

Teatro Piemonte

P.le F.

Verdi

districts: a residential

Nazionale

L.go Baracca

Vibram Buonarroti

Settimo

P.za

Severo

Mu

area, still inhabited 4

● S. Pietro

in Sala

Tommaseo

Pagano P.za Sicilia

by Milan’s upper

Malpe

P.za

Exp

crust, it epitomizes

5 Wagner

P.za P.za


Conciliazione Giovine

P.za

Wagner

De Angeli

Conciliazione Italia Cenacolo

the traditional soul

Max Mara

PORTA

Vinciano

De Angeli

P.za

MAGENTA

S. Maria

of the city and is

Teatro Piemonte

P.le F. P.za

della Grazie Carce

Nazionale

L.go Baracca

d’A

distinguished by its

Settimo

● Po

Palazzo S. Vitt

●Denzel

P.za Severo

Museo Teatrale P.ledelle

air of sophistication,

Irnerio Muji

Aquileia

alla Scala Stelline

P.za Sicilia

elegance and stunning

P.za

Vesuvio

residential architecture.

5

Tripoli

LEGEND

S. Vittore

al Corpo

The area is renowned

6 Information

Market

S. Ambro

for several of the best

P.za

Carceri Museo Nazionale

Po

Pa

S. Vittore

della Scienza

shopping addresses

P.za

P.le

e della Tecnica

So

Place of Interest

Church

Irnerio

Aquileia

P.za

in town.

Bazzi

Viewpoint

Museum P.za

Vesuvio

Train Station

P.za

Tripoli

Rosario

LEGEND Theatre

P.za

S. Agostino S. Agostino

6

Metro Station

CONCHETTA

Information

Market

Shopping

7

Parco

Cycle Path

P

Church

Solari

Place of Interest

P.za

Post Office Bazzi Swimming Pool Teatro

Viewpoint

Libero

P.le

Museum

Cantore M

Police

dell'Ant

Train Station

P.za Parking

Rosario

Theatre

A

Metro Station

CONCHETTA B

C

Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to P.ta check the accuracy of the in

Shopping

Stazione Genova FS

7

Cycle Path

Pta. Génova

Vic.

S. Maria Lavandai

Post Office

al Naviglio

Swimming Pool

Mercatone

Police

Parking

dell'Antiquariato

NA

Vibram

Muji

A B

Max Mara

C D

This unique Vibram® flagship store offers

the entire collection of the original

“Vibram fivefingers®”, the barefoot shoe

of the Italian company, market leader in

rubber soles production since 1937.

M1 Wagner, M1 Buonarroti (p. 45)

V. Guglielm

V. S. Del Piombo

V. Monte Bianco

V. Volpedo

V. Mosè Bianchi

V. Domenichino

V. G. Previati

V. F. Faruffini

V. F. Albani

V.le Ergisto Bezzi

V. Carlo Ravizza

V. A. Mario

V. Giuseppe Frua

V. dei Gracchi

V.le Eginardo

V. Berengario

V. Correggio

el Lavoro

V. A. Spinola

V.le Ezio

V. Monte Rosa

V. V. Colonna

V. Marghera

V. Michelangelo Buonarroti

V.le d.

Comemérico

V.le dell’Industria

V. Giotto

V.le S. Boez

V.le Cassiodoro

V. Pier Capponi

V. Giuseppe Dezza

V. Francesco Ferru

V. Raffaello Sanzio V. Vecellio Tiziano

V. Raffaello Sanzio V. Vecellio Tiziano

V. L. Sacco

V. Sardegna

V. G. del Maino

V. P. Cavalcabò

V. Roncaglia

V. Giorgio Washington

V. Volpedo

V. Domenichino

V. G. Previati

V. F. Faruffini

V.

Monferrato

V. Elba

V. S. Caboto

V. G. Boni

V. Mosè Bianchi

V. Carlo Ravizza

V. A. Mario

V. Giuseppe Frua

V.le Ergisto Bezzi

V. dei Gracchi

V. D. Cimarosa

V. San Eusebio

V. della Robbia

V. Polibio

V. Alessandri

V. Panzini

V. Rossetti

Corso Vercelli

V. Paolo Giovio

V. Verga

V. Stromboli

V. California

V. Tortona

V. Ippolito Nievo

V. Leone XIII

V. G. Pallavicino

V. Egadi V. Lipari

V. Moisé Loria

V. Stendhal

Cavalleria

Savoia

V. da Giussano

V. Rasori

V. B. Panizza

o Sempione

V. A. Canova

Corso Magenta

V. San Vittore

V. F. Melzi D’Eril

V. Vincenzo Monti V. Vincenzo Monti

V. Reggimento

V. Mario Pagano

V. S. Michele del Carso

V. Vincenzo Foppa

V. Valparaiso

V. Bergognone

V. Lodovico Ariosto

V. Lorenzo Mascheroni

V.le di Porta Vercellina

V. Montevideo

V. Andrea Solari

V. Savona

V. Andrea Massena V. Mo

V. Tasso

V. M. Bandello

V.le G. Milton

V. Gian Battista Vico

V.le Papiniano V.le Papiniano

V. Cerano

V. Voghera

V. N. Machiavelli

V. Tortona

V. G. Revere

V. Petrarca

V. P. Tamburini

V. G. Rovani

V. degli Olivetani

V.le Coni Zugna

V. Ventimiglia

V. Tortona

V. XX Settembre

V. Valenza

V. A. Saffi

V. B. Zenale

V. G. Leopardi

V. Olona

V. Ariberto

Corso C.

Colombo

V. Vigevano

V. Luig

V. A. Berta

V. E. Alemagna

V. de Togni

V. Boc

V. Giosu

V. E. De

V. Carroccio

V. Ausoni

V. S. Vin

V. Cesare Sesto

V. S. Ca

V.

V.le Gorizia

Ripa di Porta T

Naviglio Grande

Strada Alzaia Naviglio Grande

Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2003. Revised 2008. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept res

Distinguished by its minimalism design

and eco-friendly approach, this store is a

part of the famous chain of “made-in-

Japan” furniture, clothing and high-tech

items. M1 Conciliazione. (p.31)

V. Be

V. Correggio

V. L. Sacco

V. Marghera

V. Belfiore

V. Sardegna

V.le Ezio

pinola

V. Monte Rosa

V. V. Colonna

V. G. del Maino

V. P. Cavalcabò

V. Roncaglia

V. Michelangelo Buonarroti

V. Giorgio Washington

V. Elba

V. S. Caboto

V. G. Boni

V. Giotto

V.

Monferrato

V.le

V. della Robbia

V. Pier Capponi

V. D. Cimarosa

V. San Eusebio

V. Polibio

V. Alessandri

V. Panzini

V. I

V. Rossetti

Corso Vercelli

V. Paolo Giovio

V. Verga

V. Giuseppe Dezza

V. Egadi V. Lipari

V. Stromboli

V. Moisé Loria

V. Stendhal

V. California

V. Tortona

V. Leone XIII

V. da Giussano

V. G. Pallavicino

V. Rasori

V. B. Panizza

An Italian fashion house known for its

ready-to-wear clothing. Max Mara has

always offered clean-cut, beautifully

tailored lines. Although it has numerous

sales points scattered throughout Milan,

Italy and the rest of the world, it is not a

chain store but rather a real designer label.

M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San Babila. (p. 28)

Cavalleria

Savoia

V. Vincenzo Monti

V. Reggimento

V. Mario Pagano

V. S. Michele del Carso

V. Vincenzo Foppa

V. Valparaiso

V. Bergognone

V. Lodovico Ariosto

V. Lorenzo M

V.le di Porta Vercellina

V. Montevideo

V.

V. M.

C

V.le Pap

V. Andrea Solari

V. Savona

V.

V.

V. Voghera

V. Torto

D

www.vibramfivefingers.com

Via Raffaello Sanzio, 6

T: 02 36528461

www.muji.eu

Corso Vercelli, 11

T: 02 48517578

www.maxmara.com

Via Cuneo, 3

T: 02 48004728

www.wheretraveler.com 37


Shopping

easy to fold:

just follow the sequence

of steps

in the pictures and...

have a nice trip!

Insert the pants inside

the LordIron

Insert the LordIron

inside the jacket

Fold carefully

Ready to go!

www.colombogioielli.it. Corso Vercelli, 29.

T: 02 48004408. M1 Conciliazione. MAP B4

DABBENE – The tradition of old Milanese workshops

combined with the innovation required by

more discerning customers. Its well-equipped

laboratory makes hand-crafted objects to order

and engravings to satisfy all types of customization

requirements. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm.

www.argenteriadabbene.com. Largo Treves, 2.

T: 02 6554406. M2 Moscova. MAP F3

DAMIANI – Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has

a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always

interpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity,

a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary

spirit, are the distinctive values of the Damiani

jewelry reproposed in a flagship store designed

by Antonio Citterio. A well-lighted space displays

all the Maison’s jewelry collections, which are

admired throughout the world for their jewelry to

be realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance

with the best Italian tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-

7pm. www.damiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 10.

T: 02 76028088. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

DODO – The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in

1995, by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift

or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal

charm pieces, each of which has a particular

meaning. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-

7pm. www.dodo.it. Corso Venezia, 8. T: 02 76317581.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

GIOIELLERIA CUSI RINALDO – Has been

fashioning high-class jewellery for over one

century. This brand is renowned not only for its

choice of stunning gems and pearls but also

for the sophistication of the jewellery crafted

in its workshop. Special design pieces include

pearls, platinum and jewellery inspired by nature.

Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/4pm-7pm. www.

cusidiamantimilano.com. Corso Monforte, 23. T: 02

795832. M1 San Babila. MAP H4

GIOIELLERIA FARAONE - For milanese people via

Montenapoleone is synonimous with luxury, and

Faraone Jewerly used to be for the rich milanese

families one of the few reserved keepers of family

secrets. Marriages, births, events in the life of

the affluent customers were often celebrated

with a visit to this paradise of shining objects. As

confidents the owners respected their customers

privacy. Today you can find the same reserved

ambience and spectacular jewels. Open Mon 3pm-

7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm.Via Montenapoleone,

19. T: 02 76319153. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

GIOIELLERIA PEDERZANI – Established in 1947

by Gino Pederzani, this historic jeweller’s store,

located in via Montenapoleone, became

famous in the ‘70’s for its heart-shaped and

Fancy Yellow diamonds, “the” yellow diamonds

par excellence. Tradition, luxury and perfection

handed down generation to generation. Rings,

necklaces, bracelets, brooches and, last but not

least, the Glamour style collection by Vanessa

Pederzani. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.

gioielleriapederzani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02

76001728. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

GIOIELLERIA VILLA – Timeless, precious jewellery

like the inimitable, patented “Tessuto Villa”, a mesh

of golden stands so soft that they feels like velvet

against your skin. Villa specializes in the creation of

cufflinks, revisited with a touch of irony. Mon 3pm-

7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.villa.it. Via

A. Manzoni, 23. T: 02 804279. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP F4

GOBBI 1842 – From an old late 19th century

workshop to an elegant Milanese watchmaker’s

establishment. The upper floor houses a wellequipped

laboratory. Open Tues-Sat 10am-

1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II,

15. T: 02 76020536. M1 San Babila. MAP G5

KIDULT – Showroom featuring highly original

jewellery (necklaces, bracelets and rings) created as

unique pieces and customizable in shape, colour

and materials. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.

kidult.net. Via Pontaccio, 3. T: 02 72080271. M2

Lanza. MAP E3

LINGOTTINO – Just a short distance from via Torino

and corso Magenta, Lingottino offers beautiful

handcrafted pieces. Unique items, ranging from

tiny earrings to diamond chokers. Open Mon

3pm-7pm; Tues-Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.

lingottino.it. Via Santa Marta, 10. T: 02 72022203.

M1 Cordusio. MAP E5

LOCMAN – Original, innovative, trendy watches,

distinguished by high-quality artisan finishes. A

real atelier where high-tech and tradition meld

to create an atmosphere of extreme elegance.

Locman is currently one of the most important

names in Italian watchmaking. Open Tues-Sat

10am-7pm. www.locman.it. Via Gonzaga, 5. T: 02

36512893. M3 Missori. MAP F5

MASCHIO GIOIELLI – A Milanese jewellery brand,

established in 1988 by Dario Maschio, designer of

rings, earrings and bracelets that can be assembled

and personalized with a choice of over 800 charms

and coloured semi-precious stones. All the lines

are distinguished by a linear, clean-cut design.

Creativity, elegance and innovation interpreted in

various tones of gold, from yellow to pink right up

to red. You can either visit their shop in the centre

of Milan or view their jewellery on-line. Open

Mon-Sun 10,30am-7pm. www.maschiogioielli.it. Via

San Pietro all’Orto, 17. T: 02 76004188. M1 San Babila.

MAP G5

NOVE25 – Silver shop and workshop. Its creations are

inspired by graphic elements and street culture

and are targeted at a younger clientele. Open Mon

4pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/4pm-7.30pm.

www.nove25.net. Via Ravizza, 3. T: 02 91534918.

M1 Wagner. MAP A4

OROLOGERIA LUIGI VERGA – Vast assortment

of prestigious Swiss watches: Rolex, Patek

Philippe, Vacheron&Constantin, Audemars

Piguet, Baume&Mercier and Jaeger-Le Coutre.

The complete collection of “Luigi Verga Milano”

watches, created in 2002 by the Verga brothers,

is also available. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat

10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.luigiverga.it.

Via G. Mazzini, 3 corner of via Dogana.

T: 02 8056521. M1 Duomo.

MAP F5

PASQUALE BRUNI – Old-world jewellery with

intricate detailing but also classic lines featuring

a contemporary design. Precious stones for all

38 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


www.cherries.it

Jackets Always Perfect Everywhere

No traveler wants to arrive at destination with a suitcase full of wrinkled clothes. Once

inserted into position, LordIron, a specially designed lining, prevents the fabric of your

jackets and pants for pleating. It is a synthetic padded liner that you place under the vest

and inside the sleeves to minimize pleats and wrinkles. LordIron is unisex and fits both

Men’s and Women’s jacket sizes.

by

ARMERIA MESCHIERI • ITALY • Tel. +39 0332 288 390 • www.lordiron.it • PATENTED


Shopping

occasions. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm.

www.pasqualebruni.com. Via della Spiga, 6/a. T: 02

784118. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

PISA OROLOGERIA – A watch lover’s paradise

for over 50 years. Prestigious timepieces with

particular attention to the latest innovations.

Assistance centre and specialized workshop.

Unique gift packaging with delivery guaranteed

to any part of the world. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm.

www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Verri corner of

via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 762081.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

POMELLATO – Established in 1967 as an artisan

laboratory and currently a reference point in

Italian gold-crafting. Pomellato trends for 2010

include vibrant coloured stones set in red gold,

irregular cuts and ultra-feminine designs. Open

Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.

pomellato.it. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17.

T: 02 76006086. M1 San Babila. MAP G5

ROCCA 1794 – Master jewellers and watchmakers

since the 18th century, Rocca rates among

the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A

selection among the most prestigious brands:

Damiani, Rolex, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin Omega,

Cartier, Panerai, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Salvini,

Audemars Piguet, Tag Heuer, Bulgari, Ferrari,

Vacheron Constantin, Gucci, Bliss, Eberhard,

Jaeger-le Coultre, Chopard, Versace, Locman, Iwc,

Vertu, Tudor. Rocca garantees outstanding levels

of competence and expert skillfull consultancy.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.rocca1794.com.

Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP F5

SPOTLIGHT

ROSATO – Created by the designer Simona Rosato,

finalist at the “UK Jewellery Awards” in 2009,

Rosato jewellery has an almost lyrical elegance.

Bracelets, earrings, rings, necklaces and pendants

boast minute finishes and are decorated with

coloured enamels and glitter. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. www.rosato.it. Via Montenapoleone, 1.

T: 02 76281670. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

RUBINIA – Boasting years of experience in the

world of fashion and design, in 1986, Ilario Plazzi

created Rubinia, a line of totally unique, alluring

jewellery. Each piece is distinguished by its

superb handcrafting and the use of gold, silver,

pearls, gems and semi-precious stones. A musthave

item for discerning women. Two locations

(Via Monti and Largo V Alpini). Open Mon-Sat

10am-7.30pm. www.rubinia.com . Via V. Monti, 26.

T: 02 43986440. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. MAP D4

SABBADINI GIOIELLIERE – Tradition, expertise

and know-how are the underlying philosophy

of the Sabbadini family, who have been in the

jewellery trade for generations. The key feature

of each piece is the original combination of

precious or semi-precious stones resulting in a

perfect harmony of forms, colours and nuances.

Avant-garde jewellery, boasting the unmistakable

hallmark features of the company, such as the

“serti mysterieux” (featuring an invisible setting)

which exudes lightness and mystery. Open Mon

2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.

sabbadini.com. Via Montenapoleone, 6. T: 02

76008228. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

SCAVIA – The collections by Fulvio Maria Scavia

epitomize the elegance of Italian design.

Rigorously hand-crafted pieces, the highest

expression of luxury and good taste. Open Mon-

Sat 10am-7pm. www.scavia.it. Via della Spiga, 9.

T: 02 76021610. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

SCHREIBER – This Milanese establishment, located

in the historic Galleria Manzoni, offers a wide

selection of intricately detailed, high-class

jewellery. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm.

www.schreiber.it. Via A. Manzoni, 40.

T: 02 76021570. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

SWATCH – The secrets of the Swatch success are

appealing design at affordable prices. In addition

to its classical plastic styles, it now also offers new

versions ranging from Irony (in metal) to SKIN

Chrono (the thinnest chronograph in the world)

to Snowpass (with an integrated access function

that can be used as a ski pass) and Beat (featuring

an Internet Time function). It also stocks jewellery

and specials. Several stores located throughout the

city (Corso Buenos Aires, 64; Via Montenapoleone,

12; Corso Vercelli, 3; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15;

corners at Coin, Piazza Cinque Giornate; Corso di

Porta Ticinese, 58). Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm.

www.swatch.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15.

T: 02 7600 0520. M1 San Babila. MAP G5

TIFFANY & CO – This world-renowned jeweller has

three flagship stores in Milan, Florence and Rome.

Located in the heart of Milan’s fashion district, it

carries an exclusive selection of classically simple

jewellery and gift items in perfect keeping with

the tradition of its famous New York counterpart

founded in 1837. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat

10am-7pm. www.tiffany.it. Via della Spiga, 19/a.

T: 02 76022321. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – Founded in 1896, this

famous manufacturer of superb French jewellery

is known throughout the world for the settings of

its rare, ultra-precious gems still protected today

by the exclusive “Serti Mystérieux” patent. Its

flagship store, opened in 2009, is located in Milan’s

Quadrilatero della moda. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.vancleef-arpels.com.

Via P. Verri, 10. T: 02 7767951. M1 San Babila.

MAP G4

VHERNIER – A leader in the production of sublime

jewellery, this maison is a hot favourite with

the international jet set and specializes in the

production of highly exclusive, unique pieces.

Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

www.vhernier.it. Via Santo Spirito, 14. T: 02 77331560.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

New Food Market

Offering good, healthy regional food while promoting consumer

awareness: this is the philosophy of the new QB Mercato e Cucina

space inaugurated in Milan on 13 November at Club GetFIT in via

Cenisio 10. The space is open to the public, Mondays to Fridays, from

7 am to 11 pm and on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 am to 7 pm.

Extending over a surface area of 300 sq.m., it offers 1500 carefully

selected products. The market also offers tastings and a rich Sunday

brunch. www.qbmercatoecucina.it.

WINTEX WATCHES BY CALDEX – Stunning and

authentically creative pieces featuring a range

of exciting colours. These highly contemporary

timepieces represent the new soul of Italian luxury.

Open Mon-Fri 9am-1.30pm/2.30pm-5.30pm.

www.wintexwatches.com. Via Terraggio, 15. T: 02

8063101. M1 Cadorna FN. MAP D5

Leather & Luggage

GILLI – Original, eye-catching bags and accessories

in leather but also fashion jewellery, women and

children’s clothing and lots more besides. Gilli’s

creative, trendy cube-shaped bags are the hallmark

feature of this Milanese maison. Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. www.gilli.com. Via della Spiga, 5. T: 02

76028422. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

40 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


ph. alessandrobencini.com

Via Madonnina, 11 - 20121 Milano Tel. +39 02 86461080

www.angelacaputi.com

www.wheretraveler.com 41


Shopping

MH WAY – A hot favourite with those who are

passionate about design. Bags, rucksacks and

shoulder bags distinguished by a discreet logo

and the skilful use of colour are showcased

against a rarefied, white background.

Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-

7pm. www.mhway.it. Via Durini, 2. T: 02 76021787.

M1-M3 Duomo, M1 San Babila. MAP G5

NAVA – Design applied to the world of stationery,

suitcases and office equipment. Located on

two floors, it offers accessories and furnishing

complements – mostly in plastic or leather –

featuring sleek lines and a sophisticated use of

colour. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-

7.30pm. www.navadesign.com. Via Durini, 23.

M1 San Babila. MAP G5

PELLUX – Situated just a short distance from the

Duomo, Pellux is the epitome of luxury travel

luggage. It sells briefcases, suitcases and bags

of all shapes and colours, made from the most

precious skins. In addition to its handcrafted

line, including exquisite shoes, it also offers a

selection of other brands inc Piero Guidi,

Alviero Martini and Samsonite. Open Mon

3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7pm.

www.pellux.it. Via Agnello corner of

Via Ragazzi del ’99. T: 02 864104. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP F5

PIQUADRO – The company, founded in 1987

thanks to the insight of Marco Palmieri, offers

business and travel luggage, trolleys and

suitcases, mainly in leather or in hi-tech

materials, a blend of traditional Italian

craftsmanship, design, innovation and

technology. A quality brand for city or travel

purposes in addition to a strategic sales point

at Linate airport and another in via Dante,

its flagship store is located in the Quadrilatero

della moda, Milan’s most famed shopping

district. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-

7pm. www.piquadro.com. Via della Spiga, 33.

T: 02 76318786. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

SERAPIAN – A story of passion, creative genius

and craftsmanship, an exclusive name in

high-class leather goods. Serapian boasts two

locations: an atelier in via Jommelli, where, since

1945, all of its collections are produced and a

boutique in via della Spiga. The latter offers

a special “made to order” service for those in

search of high-class objects whose every detail

can be customized. Its hallmark features are

unique, exclusive made-to-measure products

exuding a sense of low-key luxury. Two locations

(via Jommelli and Via della Spiga). Open Mon-Sat

10am-7pm. www.serapian.com. Via della Spiga,

42. T: 02 280121. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

TUCANO – Leading manufacturers of laptop

cases and accessories. Tucano focuses particular

attention on shapes, materials and colours to

satisfy computer buffs in the know. Spread out

over 300 sq.m on two floors it has a display

area where shoppers can view and actually

touch the goods and an elegant basement

floor, featuring an elegant brick-domed ceiling,

housing a multimedia space which hosts events

and exhibitions. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm.

www.tucanourbano.it. Piazza Cadorna, 4. T: 02

2520101. M1-M2 Cadorna. MAP D4

Music

BOTTEGA DISCANTICA – An historic shop

for classical music and a reference point for

musicians, musicologists and the lovers of

musical art. It offers a vast catalogue of all types of

classical music. The Bottega Discantica produces

its own CDs based on old and contemporary

Italian repertoires performed by musicians and

Italian orchestras. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat

9.30am-1pm/3pm-7pm. www.discantica.it. Via

Nirone, 5. T: 02 862966. M1-M2 Cadorna. MAP D5

BUSCEMI DISCHI – A destination store since 1965

for the lovers of pop music, rock, jazz, blues,

folk, ethnic and classic. In addition to CDs, DVDs,

LPs and specialist publications, it is possible to

find rare titles and limited editions. Open Mon

3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.

www.buscemi.com. Corso Magenta, 31.

T: 02 804103. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. MAP E5

BUSCEMI HI-FI – A destination store for over thirty

years in the field of Hi-Fi, it carries a wide range of

high-end audio/video equipment and also offers

an overseas delivery service. Targeted design for

home or public use, including craft as well as the

production of music network systems and the

sale of second-hand equipment. Open Mon 3pm-

7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-13.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.

www.buscemihifi.it. Corso Magenta, 27.

T: 02 8056410. M1-M2 Cadorna. MAP D5

LIBRERIA LARGO MAHLER – A small boutique of

“musical things” strategically situated in front of

the Auditorium di Milano (during concert season

it stays open till the end of the performances).

It sells books and CDs, ranging from the

biographies of composers to essays and narrative

on music as well as a rich catalogue of the latest

classical, jazz and pop music. Open Mon 2.30-

7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm.

www.largomahler.it. Via Conchetta, 2.

T: 02 36536365. M2 Porta Genova FS. OFF MAP

MARIPOSA DISCHI – In addition to audio/video

systems, it also offers a vast catalogue of titles

(also imported from abroad) featuring the most

disparate musical genres, from rock to heavy

metal, from rap to electronic music: it also sells

tickets for festivals and concerts. Open Mon

11.30am-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm.

www.mariposadischi.it. Corso Lodi, 1.

T: 02 55184792. M3 Porta Romana. MAP H7

RICORDI MEDIA STORE – This is the largest, most

important store associated with the historic music

publishers; this new venue (directly connected

to Libreria Feltrinelli-Duomo), with several floors,

offers various listening points, a Box Office

counter for tickets, a rich audio, video and multimedia

catalogue and areas dedicated to the sale

of music accessories, musical instruments and

sheet music. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun

10am-8pm. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Via U. Foscolo, 3

(Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II).

T: 02 86460272. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

STRADIVARIUS – Historic record store from which

the internationally-renowned record label

originated. Specializes mainly in classical music.

It stocks rare recordings, imported from abroad,

and niche products. It also offers a pre-sale ticket

service for concerts and performances. Mon

3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm.

www.stradivarius.it. Via Caretta, 3 corner of Corso

Buenos Aires. T: 02 29400600. M1-M2 Loreto.

OFF MAP

Passion Shopping

ALVARO CORROCHANO – Originally hailing from

Spain, in 2000, Alvaro Corrochano transferred

his luthier’s laboratory to Milan in the heart of

the Navigli district just a short distance from

the Dock. A graduate of the Cremona school,

he works according to the traditional methods

of time-honoured luthier workshops, mainly

dedicating himself to the construction of bows

and stringed instruments (violins and cellos),

crafting faithful copies of valuable original

models. www.a-corrochano-liutaio.it. Open:

by appointment. Corso San Gottardo, 14.

T: 02 83660539. MAP E7

BOLAFFI – Just a short distance from La Scala, it is

a reference point for collectors from all over the

world. From stamp collection to numismatics,

from period prints to rare publications, Bolaffi

boasts over one hundred years of experience in

all types of collectables. Open Mon 2.30-7pm;

Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30-7pm. www.bolaffi.it.

Via A. Manzoni, 7. T: 02 89013452. M3 Turati,

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

CITHERA – Located in the heart of the Brera

district, the ’Olifattorio Bar à Parfums is a tribute

to the culture of fragrances and the many ways

of discovering them. Clients can try out over two

hundred essences originating from France and

England, thanks to a free “smelling” experience.

The idea behind this unique fragrance bar is

to heighten rather than dull one’s senses. For

a highly original full immersion into the world

of perfumes. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm.

www.cithera.it/brera. Via Brera, 23.

T: 02 72004400. M2 Lanza. MAP F4

CIOCCOLATOPURO – Bring a taste of Milan home

from this delicious chocolate shop located in the

heart of Brera. This store cum workshop offers

an incredible selection of articles in chocolate,

fondant or milk chocolate, mousses, slabs and

dragée, also available in mouth watering single

portions. There are chocolates filled with coffee,

lime, orange and Grand Marnier, truffles, thyme,

lavender, plus lots more. The shop also organizes

small chocolate-themed performances with

musicians and writers. Open Mon-Sat 10am-

7.30pm. www.cioccolatopuronline.com. Piazza

del Carmine, 1. T: 02 86915731. M2 Lanza. MAP F4

DANIELA DE MARCHI – Rings, earrings, pendants,

necklaces and bracelets made from coral, twigs,

bark and fruit, plus an array of other naturebased

products. Daniela De Marchi makes

personalized jewellery. Burnished finishes and

enamels, combined with semi-precious stones

such as agate, jade and quarz offer customers

the option of choosing each model in some

twenty different colours. Open Tues-Thurs-Sat

10am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm; Wed-Fri 10am-7pm.

www.danielademarchi.it. Via dei Piatti, 6.

T: 02 86995040. M3 Missori. MAP E6

DISCOMANE (IL) – Inaugurated in 1978, this is

the first second-hand record store of its kind

42 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Clockwise from top:

PAOLO LATTUADA

One of the most exclusive flower

boutiques in the city (p. 33))

FERRARI STORE

Authorized sales point of the

historic Maranello headquarters

(p. 31)

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ

Offers a vast range of glasses,

sunglasses and contact lenses

(p. 33)

ever opened in Italy. Clients can find a wide

selection of LPs, CDs, audio cassettes, DVDs and

books on music. Open Mon 3-7.30pm; Tues-Fri

9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-

13pm/3pm-7.30pm; open on the last Sunday of

the month. www.discomane.com. Alzaia Naviglio

Grande, 38. T: 02 8394860. M2 Porta Genova.

MAP D7

FILATELIA MAZZINI – In the heart of Milan, a

“not-to-be-missed” destination for experts and

collectors of stamps, numismatics, theme and

advertising postcards and banknotes plus an

array of other collectables, with related accessories

and documentation. Open Mon-Fri 2pm-6pm; Sat

10am-noon. www.filateliamazzini.it. Via G. Mazzini,

6. T: 02 8692430. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

FILOVIA – You bring the design, inscription or logo

of your choice and FiloVia will embroider it on any

type of garment, fabric or accessory according to

individual requirements. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm.

www.filoviaricami.com. Via V. Monti, 28.

T: 02 4815993. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. MAP D4

G. LORENZI COLTELLINAIO – Located right in

the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda and

established in 1929, Lorenzi is a “must” for collectors

of knives, scissors and all types of shaving articles.

The shop also sells lighters and accessories

for smokers. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat

9am-12.30am/5pm-7.30pm. www.lorenzi.it.

Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76022848.

M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. MAP G4

LIBRERIA DELLO SPETTACOLO – Historic bookstore

specializing in publications on the most disparate

artistic subjects: a wide selection of titles dedicated

to music and dance but also theatre, cinema and

television, including monographs, biographies,

scripts, plays, choreographies, dictionaries,

magazines and periodicals. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3pm-7pm.

www.libreriadellospettacolo.it. Via Terraggio, 11.

T: 02 86451730. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. MAP D5

MARINELLA (E.) – Established in 1914, the Marinella

brand is known throughout the world for its

stylish, hand-made neckties, worn by heads

of state, industrial magnates and celebrities. In

addition to the legendary shop - still located in

Naples - and its sophisticated Milan boutique,

E. Marinella ties are also sold at its single-brand

store in Tokyo. New openings are scheduled in

Lugano in November 2010 and in London at the

beginning of 2011. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat

10am-7pm. www.marinellanapoli.it. Via Santa

Maria alla Porta, 5. T: 02 86467036. M1 Cordusio.

Map F5

MONTBLANC – A legendary manufacturer of fine

writing instruments and sophisticated, highquality

watches and jewellery. The product range

also Includes eyewear and leather goods. Two

locations In the city (via Montenapoleone and

Corso Vercelli). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

www.montblancitalia.it. Via Montenapoleone,

27B. T: 02 76317720. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

STIVALERIA SAVOIA – Founded in the 1920s as

the official bootmaker to the Savoy regiment,

it is the shoemaker-of-choice for all those who

are passionate about hunting, riding or polo.

Today, it makes bespoke all-purpose boots and

shoes handcrafted by artisans. The establishment

carries both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure

collections. In addition to footwear, it also sells

dresses, shirts and small leather goods, also

customized to suit individual requirements. Open

Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-

7pm. www.stivaleriasavoia.it. Via Petrarca, 7 corner

of via V. Monti. T: 02 463424. M1-M2 Cadorna.

MAP D4

SCALA SHOP (LA) – A destination store for the lovers

of ballet and opera, this fabulously equipped shop

offers a wide choice of books, CDs, DVDs, gift

items, merchandise, photos and posters. It has a

corner dedicated to dance equipment and shoes

by Freddy, the official sponsors of the La Scala

Ballet corps. Purchases can also be made online.

Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm and on evenings

after performances. www.lascalashop.it. Largo A.

Ghiringhelli. T: 02 45483257. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP F4

Shoes

ALBERTO GUARDIANI – The best of “Madein-Italy”

featuring innovative, elegant,

contemporary footwear. Handcrafted details

(hand-stitching and customized finishes)

and a selection of prime quality materials.

Mon 1pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

www.albertoguardiani.it. C.so Venezia, 6.

T: 02 76021697. M1 Palestro. MAP H3

ALFONSO GARLANDO – Hundreds of styles,

colours and heels in all shapes and sizes.

At this store, it is truly impossible not to find

exactly the shoe that you’re looking for! Open

Mon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm;

Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm.

www.alfonsogarlando.com. Via Madonnina, 1.

T: 02 874665. M1Cairoli, M2 Lanza. MAP F3

ANGELO COMOLLI – Luxury, handmade shoes.

The oldest shoemaking establishment founded

in 1847 by a Milanese family. Measurements are

taken and the information is then transformed

into a pair of wooden lasts, around which the

www.wheretraveler.com 43


Shopping

shoe will be built. Open by appointment only.

www.angelocomolli.com. Via San Pietro all’Orto,

9. T: 02 76022000 or 338 6374406 (mobile).

M1 San Babila. MAP G5

BALDININI – Exquisitely crafted footwear

resembling true works of art. Baldinini is

known throughout the world for its exclusive

workmanship and perfect details. “Dreams to

be worn”. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm.

www.baldinini.it. Via Montenapoleone, 15.

T: 02 76016036. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

BERLUTI – Berluti has been making bespoke

men’s shoes since 1895. A perfect combination

of creativity and exquisite handcrafting.

Everything is painstakingly calculated to ensure

peerless elegance. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat

10am-7pm. www.berluti.com. Via P. Verri, 5.

T: 02 76028554. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

BRUNO MAGLI – One of Italy’s most famous

brands dating back to 1936. Classic footwear

made from high quality materials, featuring

impeccable details. Timeless styles, designed to

last a lifetime. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.

brunomagli.it. Via Montenapoleone corner of via

A. Manzoni. T: 02 76018400. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

CESARE PACIOTTI – The rigour of artisan

handcrafting combined with Italian creativity.

For those in search of classic “revolutionary”

men’s shoes and ultra-feminine, glam women’s

shoes with high heels that will turn your head.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cesare-paciotti.

com. Via Sant’Andrea 8 and 8/a, T: 02 76001338;

02 76001164. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

DEV BOUTIQUE – Dev stocks Tod’s, Hogan and

Fay, under the same roof. Men and women’s

collections, distinguished by a skilful mix of

tradition and trendiness, premium quality,

creativity and comfort. Why not treat yourself to

a pair of these world-renowned “iconic objects”.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm.

www.devboutique.it. Corso Vercelli, 8.

T: 02 48028848. M1 Conciliazione. MAP C4

FABI – For discerning customers in search of

footwear and accessories handcrafted by the

best of “Made-in-Italy artisans. Contemporary,

sophisticated styles in keeping with the latest

fashion trends. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;

Sun 3pm-7.30pm. www.fabishoes.it. Via

Montenapoleone, 17. T: 02 76016413.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

FERRAGAMO – Established in 1926, Ferragamo

shoes are real works of art. Each new line is the

result of fifty days of labour and all finishes are

entirely handcrafted. Open Mon-Sat 10am-

7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.ferragamo.com.

Women: via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76000054.

Men: Via Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

FIGINI – Men and women’s shoes handcrafted

using the finest quality materials, a perfect

blend of creativity and artisan tradition. Classic

Corso Buenos Aires

The longest shopping street in Europe

The whole world meets in

this exciting district. More

than 200 shops, flagship and

concept stores, amusement and

entertainment: 9.00 till night. 7

days a week.

M1Porta Venezia • M1 Lima •

M1-M2 Loreto

Since opening in 1782, Corso Buenos Aires has been one

of the most important commercial thoroughfares in Milan.

A real shoppers’ paradise, it offers one and a half

kilometre of window displays, with shops for all tastes

and all budgets: sophisticated boutiques, alternated

with trendy stores offering all types of merchandise and

numerous bars for a quick snack. Its side streets abound

in restaurants, many of which are ethnic. A Saturday

afternoon favourite with Milanese shoppers of all ages.

footwear for everyday wear. Open Mon 3pm-

7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.figinifootwear.

it. Corso Monforte, 2. T: 02 76022937. M1 San

Babila. MAP H4

FRATELLI ROSSETTI – Renowned throughout

the world for their comfort and fit. These

beautifully handcrafted shoes are a perfect

mix of luxury and tradition, with an added

touch of originality. Beautiful and stylish to

boot. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-

2pm/3pm-7pm www.rossetti.it.

Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

HOGAN – Add a touch of high-quality comfort

and the best of Italian design to your shoe

wardrobe. Innovative, easy-to-wear luxury.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-

2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.hoganworld.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76011174.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

GEOX – The famous “breathable shoe”, the

result of the creative genius of Mario

Moretti Polegato, distinguished by a special

waterproof, breathable membrane. Innovation,

design and healthy feet. Nine sales points

in Milan. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun

11am-7.30pm. www.geox.com. Corso Vittorio

Emanuele II corner of Piazza San Carlo, 2. T: 02

76028217. M1 San Babila. MAP G5

MORESCHI – Makers of luxury footwear and

leather goods. Models that, over the years,

have become a cult of contemporary lifestyle.

A perfect combination of tradition, highquality

and fashion. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-

7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.moreschi.it.

Piazza San Babila 1/3. T: 02 76280529.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

POLLINI – Though also producing clothing

and eyewear, Pollini is best known for the

amazing quality of its shoes (men and

women’s). It stocks an array of wonderful

boots: comfortable, glam, versatile and trendy

without ever being “over-the-top”. Open Mon-

Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm.

www.pollini.com. Piazza Duomo, 31.

T: 02 875187. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

ROBERTO BOTTICELLI – A mixture of flair and

craftsmanship, footwear and bags featuring

the utmost in luxury. Haute couture lines

created to satisfy the requirements of the most

demanding clientele to make every purchase

a unique experience. Open Mon 3pm-7pm;

Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.robertobotticelli.it.

Via della Spiga, 42. T: 02 76316770.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

RUCO LINE – For a modern, dynamic look.

Renowned throughout the world thanks

to the success of their sneakers designed

exclusively for the female universe, a magical

blend of casual-chic. Painstaking attention

to the selection of materials and impeccable

finishes. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm; 2pm-7pm.

www.rucoline.com. Via Borgospesso, 27.

T: 02 76020507. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

SERGIO ROSSI – Sergio Rossi awakens the

femme fatale in every woman. Beautifully

44 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Shopping

crafted, comfortable, eye-catching footwear

designed for women (and men) in search of

an iconic symbol of style. Each pair of shoes

is checked for quality at least 120 times.

Sergio Rossi also stocks handbags. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sergiorossi.com.

Via Montenapoleone 27. T: 02 76006140. M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

SILVANO LATTANZI – A time-honoured brand

of Italian luxury footwear for an elite few. A pair

of bespoke shoes costs from two thousand

euros upwards. Two sales points in the heart of

the city. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat

9.30am-7.30pm. www.silvanolattanzi.com.

Via Gesù, 11. T: 02 76028499.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

SPELTA – Handcrafted women’s shoes, famous

for their comfort and fit. A perfect meld of

artisan tradition and art, the pumps designed

by Spelta are sophisticated examples of pure

Italian design. Good value for money, stocks

sizes ranging from 34 to 41. Another sales point

near to Corso Vercelli, in Via Belfiore. Open Mon

3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-

2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.speltacalzature.it. Via

Pontaccio, 2. T: 02 8052592. M2 Lanza.

MAP E3

SUTOR MANTELLASSI – The name Sutor comes

from Latin meaning “fine sewer, cobbler” to

indicate the luxury hallmark feature that has

been kept alive by the brand throughout

the years. The time-honoured tradition of

handmade shoes, but also bags and belts,

preserved over time with pride and passion.

Exquisite handcrafting and an exclusive design

for an object that more than a shoe is actually

a “state of mind”. Unique shoes for discerning

customers. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-

7pm. www.sutormantellassi.com. Via P. Verri, 2.

T: 02 76020339. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

TANINO CRISCI – Handcrafted workmanship

for shoes that are comfortable to wear and

so classic that they will never go out of style.

Beautiful boots for both men and women.

Open Mon 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat

10am-7pm. www.taninocrisci.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76021264.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

VERGELIO – A historic brand offering some

of the finest quality footwear for men and

women. Collections that are always abreast

of the latest fashion trends without ever

foregoing quality. A Made-in-Italy “must”. The

chain has many other shops scattered around

the city. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat

10am-7.30pm. www.vergelio.it. Corso Vittorio

Emanuele II, 10. T: 02 76003087. M1 San Babila.

MAP G5

VIBRAM – This unique Vibram® flagship store

offers the entire collection of the original

“Vibram fivefingers®”, the barefoot shoe that

combines premium quality materials and

technology of the Italian company, market

leader in rubber soles production since 1937.

Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm;

2.30pm-7pm. www.vibramfivefingers.com.

Via R. Sanzio, 6. T: 02 36528461. M1 Wagner,

M1 Buonarroti. MAP A4

Sport

DECATHLON – One of the best equipped sports

chains where you can find equipment for

any type of sports discipline, from running

to archery, from skiing to tennis, from golf to

snowboarding. It has an enormous sales point

in the middle of town and is the best place to

find any type of sports item that you might have

forgotten to put in your suitcase. Open Sun-Sat

9am-8pm. www.decathlon.it.

Foro Bonaparte, 74. T: 02 80509755. M1 Cairoli.

MAP E4

LONGONI SPORT – Established in 1972, it has now

become a reference point for sports lovers, both

professionals and amateurs. It carries all the

best-known sports brands, including the most

technical. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Mon

2.30pm-7.30pm. www.longonisport.it.

Via Arona, 15. T: 02 33105653. MAP B1

Stationery

FABRIANO BOUTIQUE – The boutique sells

superlative quality luxury stationer’s items,

combining the high quality of Fabriano paper

with materials, such as leather and linen, to make

even the most simple of everyday items special.

Products include diaries, bags, wallets, notepads,

photo albums, cards and an array of different

articles produced using only the most exclusive

Italian raw materials to guarantee the quality of

each and every piece sold. The perfect place

to rediscover the joy of writing. Open Mon-

Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2.30pm-7.30pm. www.

fabrianoboutique.com. Via Ponte Vetero, 17. T: 02

76318754. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4

PETTINAROLI – Established in 1881 as a print shop,

it subsequently branched out into traditional

stationery. On offer, highly unique gifts,

personalized planners, business cards printed

on the finest of papers and antique prints. Open

Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm.

www.fpettinaroli.it. Piazza

San Fedele, 2 (entrance from via T. Marino).

T: 02 86464642-1875. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F4

PINEIDER MILANO – An historic reference point

for connoisseurs of style, exclusivity and Italian

tradition offering exquisite handmade paper,

hand-drawn prints in relief, leather goods and

writing instruments, all exclusively Made-in-Italy

using only the highest quality materials. Open

Mon-Sat 10am-2pm; 3pm-7pm.

Corso Europa, 13. T: 02 76022353-2558.

M1 San Babila. MAP G5

Tailoring

CAMICERIA AMBROSIANA – A destination store

for handmade shirts, one of the distinctive signs

of male elegance. Double and twisted, superior

quality fabrics, a vast range of colours, stitching

in cotton or silk yarns, embroidered monograms

on the pocket, mother-of-pearl buttons,

these are just some of the details offered by this

prestigious sartoria. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7.30pm;

Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm.

www.camiceriaambrosiana.com. Via Soncino, 1.

T: 02 72001818. M3 Missori. MAP E6

CAMPAGNA & C. – This high-class tailor’s shop

stocks three lines: Gianni Campagna, for

limited series, hand-stitched garments, Sartoria

Campagna Milano for pret à porter and

Domenico Caraceni for traditional tailoring.

All garments are entirely handmade, using the

finest, most exclusive fabrics and are completed

by handcrafted accessories including shirts, ties

and knitwear. Gianni Campagna also presents

his lines in New York, Los Angeles, London, Paris

and Tokyo. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.

campagna.it. Via Palestro, 24 corner of corso

Venezia 53/A. T: 02 778811. M1 Palestro. MAP H3

FERDINANDO CARACENI – The ultimate in

elegant, luxury bespoke garments. British

fabrics, cashmere from Scotland and Irish linens

are used to interpret a sartorial tradition of

unparalleled excellence. Famous throughout

the world for dressing politicians, professionals,

celebrities and members of the international

jet set. Open Mon-Fri 9am-12.30am/3pm-6pm.

www.caracenisartoria.com. Via San Marco, 22.

T: 02 6554284. M2 Moscova. MAP F3

LARUSMIANI CONCEPT BOUTIQUE– An expression

of timeless style and a leitmotif of sophisticated

elegance located in the heart of Milan’s fashion

quad in the now completely renovated historic store

opened in 1954. A Concept Boutique extending

over 700 sq.m. on three floors, it oozes simplicity

and understated luxury, reflecting the subtlety of its

sumptuous apparel. The perfect place to build your

wardrobe with exclusive pieces. Larusmiani takes

luxury retail to a new level. Open Mon-Sat 10am-

7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm www.

larusmiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 7. T: 02 76006957.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

NH SARTORIA – Located in the historic centre,

this tailor’s shop is the ideal place to build

your wardrobe and stocks a range of knitwear,

shirts and ties, all rigorously made-to-measure.

Garments are produced according to timehonoured

artisan traditions, using the most

exclusive British and Italian fabrics. Open

Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm; Saturday by

appointment only. www.nhsartoria.it.

Via Chiossetto, 2. T: 02 780531. M1 San Babila.

MAP G5

SARTORIA PRINCIPESSA – An old-world atelier

for customers aged 0 upwards. A vast sample

range is available for choose your dream

garment, which will be produced in just one

week in the desired size, colour and fabric.

Open Mon 3.30-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-

7.30pm. www.sartoriaprincipessa.com. Via

Castel Morrone, 20. T: 02 29525290. M1 Porta

Venezia. OFF MAP

VINCI UOMO – Impeccable artisan attention to

each and every detail, from the stitching of the

buttonholes to the colour of the lining, right

up to the buttons. Vinci makes custom-tailored

garments and offers a large range of fabrics

produced by the most prestigious Italian, British

and Irish houses. Open Mon 2pm-6pm;Tues-

Fri 10am-1pm/2am-6pm; Sat 9.00am-12.30am.

By appointment on Tuesday and Thursday

evenings from 7 to 8pm, tailors are available to

both take and recheck measurements.

www.vinciuomo.it. Via Monte Cervino, 3.

T: 02 48195397. M1 Amendola Fiera. MAP A3

www.wheretraveler.com 45


Dining

Verdi’s Favourite Spot

Set against an elegant backdrop in the

heart of Milan, Don Carlos is an intimate

spot set within a warm, sophisticated

ambience. Its walls are decorated with

paintings and sketches from La Scala

and the restaurant is dedicated to the

musician Giuseppe Verdi, who spent

the last years of his life in the Suite del

Grand Hotel et de Milan, where he

composed several of his most famous

operas. The restaurant has an elegant

outdoor area and a cellar boasting

over 200 superlative wines. The menu

is enhanced by the creative cuisine of

Angelo Gangemi, a young, talented

Roman chef, and his team. Open every

day until late at night for after-theatre

diners.

www.ristorantedoncarlos.it. Via A. Manzoni, 29.

T: 02 72314640.

For more detailed listings, please see

www.wheretraveler.com

Haute Cuisine

ACANTO PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA – A fabulously

elegant ambiance awaits you at the famous

Hotel Principe di Savoia. The tables are set

just the right distance apart, the service is

impeccable and the atmosphere exudes

charm. The restaurant offers superior quality

food prepared by renowned chefs with dishes

that stylishly update the classics of Milanese

cuisine, with risotto taking centre stage. The

chef’s creativity is also expressed in the pasta,

meat and fish dishes. Always open. €€€€.

www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com. Piazza della

Repubblica, 17. T: 02 62302026. M3 Repubblica.

MAP G2

AIMO E NADIA (IL LUOGO DI) – Aimo and Nadia

Moroni are the most famous team of great chefs

in the city. Sheer, unadulterated haute cuisine.

Among the many fabulous dishes on offer,

the specialities for which they are renowned

worldwide include: spaghetti with spring onions

(a dish copied by dozens of other chefs, but

never with the same results) and their veal en

croute, cooked to perfection. Closed on Sat at

lunch and on Sun. Wonderful wine list. €€€€.

www.aimoenadia.com. Via Montecuccoli, 6.

T: 02 416886. M1 Primaticcio. OFF MAP

ALICE – Wonderful flavours, colours and creativity

by the young, talented chef, Viviana Varese.

Haute cuisine featuring simple ingredients: roast

peppers and marinated anchovies, cod fish with

red onions and capers, orecchiette with broccoli

rabe, mussels and crisp sea bream. Premium

quality meat and superb desserts. Closed on

Sun and Mon at lunch. €€€. www.aliceristorante.

it. Via Adige, 9. T: 02 5462930. M3 Porta Romana.

OFF MAP

ARMANI NOBU – An ultra-trendy ambiance

patronized by the fashion crowd. It goes

without saying that this fab restaurant, owned

by the legendary “Giorgio”, is located in Milan’s

“Quadrilatero della”. Contemporary luxury,

impeccable service and creative cuisine with a

touch of Japanese, signed by the internationally

renowned chef, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa. Closed Sat

lunch and Sun. €€€€. www.armaninobu.it.

Via G. Pisoni, 1 corner of via A. Manzoni.

T: 02 62312645. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

ASSASSINO (L’) – This restaurant is for people who

love to experience the authentic flavors of the

four seasons. It communicates the passion for

Italian cuisine that is the richest, genuine and

famous worldwide. Based on old traditions, the

cuisine can offer taste ever new and never tire

with its typical flavors: meat, fish, vegetables,

fresh fruit to be approached with care and

creativity to the dishes to create delicious

menus. €€€. www.ristorantelassassino.it. Palazzo

Recalcati-Via Cornaggia corner of via Amedei, 8. T:

02 8056144. M3 Missori. MAP F6

BOEUCC – Its name in Milanese dialect means “hole,

hiding place”. In 1848, before the “Five Days of

Milan” when the citizens rebelled against Austrian

rule, it was used as a hiding place where Italian

patriots met in secret, pretending to be dining

innocuously. Unequalled in terms of history,

atmosphere and sumptuous furnishings, this

beautiful restaurant offers impeccable service and

fabulous food. A favourite, since the very beginning,

with celebrities and, in particular, musicians, it still

serves the “antipastino del pescatore” (seafood

antipasto) which was the favourite dish of maestro

Arturo Toscanini. Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch.

€€€. www.boeucc.it. Piazza Belgioioso, 2.

T: 02 76020224. M1 San Babila. MAP F4

BULGARI – An oasis of tranquillity, carrying the

Bulgari trademark, in the heart of Milan. The famous

chef, Elio Sironi, offers elegant presentations and

small, though satisfying, portions. Try the Italian

specialities, from fish to polenta. €€€€. Open daily.

www.bulgarihotels.com. Via privata Fratelli Gabba,

7b.T: 02 805805. M2 Lanza. MAP F4

CRACCO – Just a short distance from the Duomo,

you will find an elegant atmosphere, tables set

just the right distance apart and good service. But,

above all, the superb food by Carlo Cracco, a chef

of worldwide renown. Superior quality ingredients

combined in original ways. Excellent wine list.

NOT ONLY ONE but numerous types of Italian cuisine exist. Discover the specialities of each region at traditional restaurants!

46 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Dining

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of

establishments recommended by the editors of

Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers.

MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in BOLD at the end of each

listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the

street maps on pages 78-79.

INFORMATION

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly

advised. Consult your concierge. In Italy, service

is included in the price meaning that although

tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously

appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some

menus include the word “coperto”, a small

surcharge corresponding to the cost of the

service and bread. Although no dress code exists

in Italy, semi-formal clothing is usually considered

de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars

are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area

is specifically offered. Several unusual venues,

offering unique gourmet delicacies, are listed

under Tasting Experiences rather than under

the standard Dining sections.

PRICES

Prices are per person.

€ = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ /

€€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Where on the web: when you

find this logo go to www.

wheremilan.com to find the

updated menu online.

The

WHERE MILAN

MENU

www.wheremilan.com

Closed on Sat lunch and on Sun. €€€€.

www.ristorantecracco.it. Via V. Hugo, 4. T: 02 876774.

M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

FOUR SEASONS – The wonderful cuisine prepared

by Sergio Mei, one of Italy’s foremost chefs, can

be experienced at this ultra-luxurious restaurant

located inside one of Italy’s most glamorous hotels.

His unique Mediterranean style of cooking, with

particular emphasis on the cuisine of Sardinia, the

chef’s native birthplace, brings to life an array of

unforgettable flavours and ingredients. Closed on

Sun at dinner. €€€€. www.fourseasons.com.

Via Gesù, 8. T: 02 77081435. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

JOIA – Pietro Leemann is considered the guru of

vegetarian food or, according to his own definition,

of “natural haute cuisine”. Several of his finest

creations include his “uovo apparente” (“Fake Egg”),

his “tonno e la sua ombra” (“Tuna and its Shadow”),

his “elogio della Sicilia” (“A Tribute to Sicily”) and his

“dolcezza a strati” (“Sweet Layers”). The wine list

is just as classy as the restaurant. Closed on Sat at

lunch and on Sun. €€€€. www.joia.it. Via P. Castaldi,

18. T: 02 29522124. M1 Porta Venezia; M3 Repubblica.

MAP H2

MARCHESINO (IL) – Gualtiero Marchesi, the “Maestro”

of Italian cuisine, is the mind behind this fabulous

restaurant which, among other things, is set in a

superb location: the Teatro alla Scala. Music

and good food, a combination which gives

life to the best dishes of Italian haute cuisine,

featuring original creations and updates of

the classics of Milanese cuisine, from risotto to

breaded veal cutlets. After-theatre dinner service.

Closed on Sun. www.ilmarchesino.it. €€€€.

Via Filodrammatici, 2 corner of Piazza della Scala.

T: 02 72094338. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F4

NICOLA CAVALLARO AL SAN CRISTOFORO –

Located in the “Navigli” area, this stylish restaurant,

run by chef-patron Nicola Cavallaro, offers a semi

traditional- innovative menu (with a selection of 4

different types of raw fish for 25 euro). Don’t leave

without trying his parma ham with cheese crème

brûlée, his cod fish balls with chickpea sauce,

his “porchetta”-style rabbit and his superlative

“Chocolate obsession”. Closed on Sat at lunch and

on Mon. €€€. www.nicolacavallaro.it. Via Lodovico

il Moro, 11. T: 02 89126060. M2 Porta Genova FS.

OFF MAP

PARK HYATT – A fabulous restaurant, overlooking

the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, with food by

the supremely talented chef, Stefano Gozzoli.

Signature dishes include, seafood salad, porcini

mushroom salad with slivers of Parmesan cheese,

eggs poché, catalogna chicory soup, fresh

spaghetti alla chitarra with Vesuvio tomatoes

and basil, mullet stuffed with potatoes, capers,

olives, orange sauce and sea urchins, costoletta

alla Milanese and, for dessert, Montebianco “à la

mode du chef”. Closed on Sat at lunch and on

Sun. €€€€. http://milano.park.hyatt.it. Via T. Grossi,

1. T: 02 88211234. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

PICCOLO SOGNO – Classy, impeccable service but,

above all, fantastic fish dishes: oysters and caviar

but also sea-food lasagnette with a light pesto

sauce, swordfish steak and steamed lobster and

prawns. Delightful desserts and Bavarian creams.

Top-notch wine list and fine selection of liquers.

Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€.

Via C. Lombroso, 54. T: 02 5463080. OFF MAP

SADLER – Claudio Sadler is an internationally

renowned two-Michelin star chef. His elegant

Milanese restaurant, specializing in modern Italian

cuisine, has lots of secluded dining rooms where

you can enjoy a romantic dinner for two or a

special evening with friends. His menus are never

the same and, each time, offer tantalizing dishes

such as lobster salad and cotechino, risotto with

parmesan and truffle crostini, fresh “cacio e pepe”

ravioli with stuffed “amatriciana”-style calamari,

aromatic fish dishes and chocolate mille-feuille.

Open evenings only, closed on Sun. €€€€.

www.sadler.it. Via A. Sforza, 77. T: 02 58104451.

M2 Romolo. OFF MAP

SAVINI – As much a city Landmark as La Scala,

this well-established restaurant is considered

to be the city’s finest. Stylish decor and period

furnishings create a sophisticated ambiance

which, combined with impeccable service, make

this a perfect dining experience. The chef Matteo

Torretta offers an array of wonderfully creative

food, demonstrating his truly authentic talent.

Two tasting menus, “Savini 2009” (5 dishes for 95

euros), or “Torretta” (8 creations by the chef for

115 euros). The à la carte selection inc foie gras

torcione with margaritas and pan brioches, risotto

al salto or with saffron, costoletta alla milanese,

ombrina with a “guazzetto” of clams, grapes

and artichokes, lamb with mint, asparagus and

zucchini. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€€.

www.savinimilano.it. Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria

Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433.

M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

TRUSSARDI ALLA SCALA – Located in front of the

Teatro alla Scala, this restaurant, boasting two

Michelin stars, embodies outstanding interior

design and top-rate cuisine. The chef Andrea

Berton is known for his scallops with ginger and

peanut cream sauce. Other signature dishes

include “liquid salad with cuttlefish dumpling and

black olive oil”, “risotto with raw prawns Sicilia and

coral” and “duck Nantaise, steamed breast, fried

leg and grilled spring onion”. Closed on Sat at

lunch and on Sun. €€€€. www.trussardi.it. Piazza

della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688201. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP F4

Haute Cuisine • outside the city

ANTICA OSTERIA DEL PONTE – On the outskirts

of the city, Renata and Ezio Santin run one of

the best restaurants in Italy. Signature dishes

include: marinated San Remo prawns, salsify

and Ocetra caviar, foie gras marbré, raviolini

stuffed with ricotta, fillets of mullet stuffed with

anchovies, pigeon, hot chocolate flan with

a white chocolate sauce and tiny, delicious

pastries. Superlative wine list. Closed on Sun

and Mon. €€€€. www.anticaosteriadelponte.

it. Piazza G. Negri, 9. Cassinetta di Lugagnano (MI).

T: 02 942003. OFF MAP

BARTOLINI – The restaurant of this young, famous

chef is located inside the elegant, luxurious

Devero Hotel (just one minute’s drive from the

Cavenago exit on the Milano-Venezia motorway)

. Among the many fabulous dishes on offer, an

absolute “must” is the risotto with red turnips and

gorgonzola sauce. Always closed at lunch and on

Sun. www.deverohotel.it. €€€. Largo J. Kennedy, 1.

Cavenago Brianza (Mi). T: 02 95335268. OFF MAP

CORTE (LA) – A discretely luxurious, elegant

restaurant with only a few tables. This charming

venue, located just a short distance from the

new Rho-Pero fairgrounds, is run by two brothers

who are members of the Jeunes Restaurateurs

d’Europe Association. Highly creative cuisine

in a charming, relaxing atmosphere. Closed on

Mon and on Sun evening. €€€. Via C. Chiesa, 36

- Pogliano Milanese (Mi). T: 02 93258018. OFF MAP

D’O – This famous restaurant is run by chef, Davide

Oldani, who studied under “three Michelin star”

masters of the calibre of Alain Ducasse, Albert Roux

and Gualtiero Marchesi and had the courage to

open a “starred trattoria”, not a luxury restaurant

but a relatively rustic, though elegantly simple,

eatery. Impeccable service and superlative dishes

at trattoria prices. “Must eats” are hot caramelized

onions, soft cotechino with a cock’s comb, saltglazed

beef, roast Belgian endive, coffee granita

and almond milk. Booking is essential. Closed on

Sun and on Mon. No credit cards accepted. €€.

Via Magenta, 18 Fraz. San Pietro all’Olmo -

Cornaredo (MI). T: 02 9362209. OFF MAP

OSTERIA DEL POMIROEU – A romantic restaurant,

situated just outside Milan. With its stylish wood

interiors and furnishings, it offers a relaxing,

elegant atmosphere but, above all, the wonderful

food by Giancarlo Morelli, a chef of International

renown. Among his formidable repertoire, worth

www.wheretraveler.com 47


Dining

particular note are his risottos, featuring a variety

of different and fabulous ingredients and his

costoletta alla Milanese. A great selection of fine

wines. Closed on Mon and on Tues at lunch. www.

pomiroeu.it. Via G. Garibaldi, 37 corner of Via L. Da

Vinci, 47/49 - Seregno (Mi). T: 0362 23797. OFF MAP

PASCOLI – A stylish, elegant, tastefully furnished

restaurant with a magnificent, large garden,

lying on the outskirts of Milan. One of the main

characteristics of the cuisine by world-class Chef

Mimo Pascoli are his superb, fresh, seasonal

ingredients. Italian haute cuisine. Closed on Sun

evening and on Mon. www.ristorantepascoli.it.

€€€. Via Fratelli Cervi, 5 - Cusago (MI). T: 02 9019395.

OFF MAP

Traditional Italian Cuisine

AFFORI – An elegant, contemporary restaurant, it

offers a selection of first-class fish and seafood

dishes, either raw or cooked, tuna tartare with

vegetables, salmon salad with oranges and

radicchio, squid with potatoes, apple strudel and

chocolate pie with a traditional balsamic vinegar

sauce. €€€. Closed on Mon. www.ristoranteaffori.

com. Via M. Novaro, 1 corner of via Astesani.

T: 02 66208629. M3 Maciachini. OFF MAP

ALBA D’ORO – Tuscan cuisine featuring typical

cold cuts for hors d’oeuvres, followed by ribollita,

spelt soup or pasta starters, like pappardelle with

mushrooms. It also offers a good assortment of

Small charming restaurant

offering delicious dishes

with particular emphasis

on fresh ingredients

Open for dinner only

Viale Coni Zugna, 52

Tel: 02 83390065

fish dishes but is known, above all, for its meat

and, in particular, classic “bistecca alla fiorentina”.

End your meal on a typically Tuscan note with

tarallucci and vin santo. Closed on Mon. €€€.

Via G.B. Morgagni, 40. T: 02 74281189. M1 Lima.

OFF MAP

ALFREDO GRAN SAN BERNARDO – Founded by

the famous Alfredo Valli, an authentic legend of

Italian cuisine, this is one of the best places to

savour real Milanese cuisine. “Must try” dishes

are “risotto”, “cotoletta alla Milanese”, sautéed

kidneys and cassoeula. Zabaione and finger

biscuits are the perfect end to a perfect meal.

Closed on Sun. €€€. Via G.A. Borgese, 14.

T: 02 3319000. MAP C1

ALLA CUCINA DELLE LANGHE – This stylish

restaurant, with its wooden decor, large mirrors

and discretely placed tables, is a favourite with

VIPs on account of its ultra-glam, Corso Como

location. The house speciality are “tajarin”, a type

of pasta resembling spaghetti. Closed on Sun.

€€€. www.trattoriaallelanghe.com. Corso Como,

6. T: 02 6554279. M2 Garibaldi FS. MAP F2

ALLA COLLINA PISTOIESE – An historic restaurant

serving excellent Tuscan cuisine. Meat and fish

specialities, traditional soups and, of course,

the “must-eat” “fiorentina” or fresh, grilled fish.

Closed on Fri and on Sat at lunch. €€€. www.

allacollinapistoiese.com. Via Amedei, 1.

T: 02 877248. M3 Missori. MAP F6

AL LESS – The signature dish at this restaurant is

“bollito misto” (boiled meat) served with all the

traditional sauces. Al Less is also a nursery so

don’t be surprised by the fact that they also sell

plants, particularly aromatic ones, and books on

plants and healthy eating. Closed on Mon and

on Tues at lunch. €€€. Viale Lombardia, 28.

T: 02 70635097. M2 Piola. OFF MAP

AMICI MIEI – Typically Italian tavern offering

traditional Lombardy fare. A hot favourite with

students from the Bocconi Università which is just

around the corner. Closed on Sun at lunch. €€€.

Viale Bligny, 42. T: 02 58321197. MAP F7.

ANTICA OSTERIA IL GIARDINETTO – Located in the

Navigli district, this elegant, family-run restaurant

offers clients a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

The menu comes direct from the Emilia Romagna

region. Try favourites like its divine “gnocco fritto”, a

type of pan-fried bread served with cold cuts as a

starter. Only serves fresh pasta. Closed on Sat and

at lunch on Sun. €€€. www.osteriailgiardinetto.it.

Via Tortona, 19. T: 02 8393807. M2 Porta Genova FS.

MAP C7

ANTICA TRATTORIA DELLA PESA – A seductive

ambiance with its retro atmosphere and typical

belle époque furnishings. The restaurant is,

in fact, one of Italy’s most historic venues and

offers traditional Milanese and Lombardy cuisine,

interpreted with genuine flair. A curiosity: a plaque

outside commemorates a visit by Ho Chi Min,

president of Vietnam during the famous, bloody

war. Closed on Sun. €€€. Viale Pasubio, 10.

T: 02 6555741. M2 Garibaldi FS. MAP E2

AURORA – A nineteenth century interior in winter

and a fresh outdoor area for alfresco dining on hot

summer evenings. Located in the vibrant design

area, its offers Northern Italian food with typical

cold meats, fresh cheeses and substantial main

courses. Don’t forget to end your meal with Aurora’s

pear and chocolate cake. Great selection of wines

from the Piedmont region. Closed on Mon. €€€.

Via Savona, 23. T: 02 89404978. M2 Sant’Agostino.

MAP C7

BAGUTTA – One of Milan’s oldest restaurants, Bagutta

is famous, among other things, for a literary prize

that was once awarded here. In fact, it is also for this

reason that it is patronized by VIPs and intellectuals.

Its top-class cuisine (Tuscan and Milanese) can

also be savoured in the garden. House specialities

include: la “fiorentina”, the famous Florentine

T-bone steak, and soups. Closed on Sun. €€€.

www.bagutta.it. Via Bagutta 14, T: 02 7600090.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

BARONE (IL) – Sardinian cuisine at its best, thanks

to premium ingredients and the skilled culinary

techniques of its chef, Luigi Piccolillo. The

restaurant’s “must try” dishes must be booked

in advance: “porceddu a carraxau” (suckling pig

cooked under a stone) and “taccolas di Capoterra”.

Also worth a try are lamb, stuffed pasta, fish and

desserts. Closed on Sun. €€€. www.ilbaronesardo.it.

Viale Espinasse, 43. T: 02 33001883. OFF MAP

BERTI – Open since 1866, for over thirty years it has

been run by Gigi Rota, the charismatic patron

whose passion and professionalism have made it a

very vibrant venue: several dining rooms filled with

an old-world Milanese atmosphere and one of the

most beautiful and highly sought-after gardens

in the city. Berti’s is one of the best addresses for

Milanese and Lombard cuisine. Closed on Sat at

lunch. €€€. www.daberti.it. Via F. Algarotti, 20.

T: 02 6694627. M2 Gioia, M3 Sondrio. MAP G1

CANTINA DI MANUELA/1 – Boasting a friendly

though trendy atmosphere, this restaurant is

renowned for its wine list. Offering over 400 labels,

it sells some thirty different types of wine by the

glass, accompanied by an excellent selection of

cold meats and cheeses, pasta and risotto dishes.

Closed on Sun. €€€. www.lacantinadimanuela.it.

Via G.C. Procaccini, 41. T: 02 3452034. MAP C1

CANTINA DI MANUELA/2 – Though part of the

same chain as the previous one, this location has a

different owner and a different philosophy. At

the bar you can have a glass of wine or choose a

bottle from the rack. It also has a pleasant outdoor

area and a handful of tables. Dishes include a

number of fish platters and a rare Parmesan cheese

that is matured for as many as 60 months. The

delicacies served in the restaurant are also available

for take-out and range from foie gras to cold meats,

from pastries to wine. Closed on Sun. €€.

www.lacantinadimanuela.it. Via R. Sanzio, 16.

T: 02 43983048. M1 Wagner. MAP A4

CAVALLINI – An elegant atmosphere and stylish

courteous service. For years, a reference point for

upscale Tuscan cuisine, it offers an array of fine fare.

Dishes to try include classic “crostini” and farro

soup. Delicious meat courses and a great wine

list. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€.

www.ristorantecavallini.it. Via M. Macchi, 2. T: 02

6693174. M2-M3 Centrale FS. MAP H1.

CHIC ‘N QUICK – Bistrot owned by famous,

two star Michelin chef, Claudio Sadler who

48 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


HAUTE CUISINE

L’ASSASSINO

This restaurant is for people who love to experience the authentic

flavors of the four seasons. It communicates the passion for Italian

cuisine that is the richest, genuine and famous worldwide. Based

on old traditions, the cuisine can offer taste ever new and never

tire with its typical flavors: meat, fish, vegetables, fresh fruit to

be approached with care and creativity to the dishes to create

delicious menus. M3 Missori. Map F6

www.ristorantelassassino.it

Palazzo Recalcati

Via Cornaggia corner of via Amedei, 8

T: 02 8056144

More info: www.wheremilan.com

The

WHERE MILAN

MENU

www.wheremilan.com

BOEUCC

Its name in Milanese dialect means “hole, hiding place”. In 1848

it was used as a hiding place where Italian patriots met in secret,

pretending to be dining innocuously. Unequalled in terms of

history, atmosphere and sumptuous furnishings, this beautiful

restaurant offers impeccable service and fabulous food. A favourite,

since the very beginning, with celebrities and, in particular,

musicians, it still serves the “antipastino del pescatore” (seafood

antipasto) which was the favourite dish of maestro Arturo Toscanini.

Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch. M1 San Babila. Map F4

www.boeucc.it

Piazza Belgioioso, 2 – T: 02 76020224

More info: www.wheremilan.com

TRUSSARDI ALLA SCALA

Situated in a magnificent position with a charming view over piazza

Scala, it offers top-rate cuisine, supremely elegant interior design and

friendly, impeccable service. Thanks to the outstanding talent of its

Chef Andrea Berton, one of the key representatives of young, Italian

cuisine, diners will enjoy superb dishes made with only the freshest

organic ingredients. In 2009, it earned the prestigious rating of two

Michelin stars and, in 2011, was awarded 3 forks by the Gambero

Rosso 2011 Guide. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. M1-M3

Duomo. Map F4

www.trussardi.com

Piazza della Scala, 5 – T: 02 80688201

More info: www.wheremilan.com

LA SINFONIA

Located inside the famed seven star Town House Galleria hotel,

Executive Chef Giacomo Gaspari stands out as a master of his

trade. His cuisine is a combination of sublimely delicious, good

healthy food appreciated by crowned heads the world over. His

underlying philosophy is the delicate balance between body

and mind, in-depth studies on food and diet, know-how and

application of the principles of ayurveda. Dishes tailor-made

to suit the most discerning palates. By reservation only. M1-M3

Duomo. Map F5

www.townhousegalleria.it

Via Silvio Pellico, 8 – T: 02 89058297

More info: www.wheremilan.com

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www.wheretraveler.com 49


Dining

recently opened this minimalist, charming,

contemporary, though elegant restaurant,

in the vicinity of his more famous venue. It

offers simple though high quality cuisine with

highlights including grilled specialities and

raw fish. Great wine cellar. Closed on Sun and

on Mon. €€. www.sadler.it. Via A. Sforza, 77. T:

02 89503222. M2 Romolo. OFF MAP

CONTE UGOLINO DA MARINO – An historic

Milanese venue, serving authentic Tuscan

cuisine. Opened in 1935, by “nonna” Irma

Biondi, it is now run by her grandchildren,

daughter and son-in-law. Excellent traditional

soups and fish starters. The house specialities

continue to be their famous “bistecca alla

fiorentina” and an assortment of grilled

meats. Closed on Sun. €€€€. Via C. Beccaria, 6.

T: 02 876134. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP G5

CONVIVENDO – A characteristic restaurant

in the heart of Milan. Recently restructured,

it is the ideal spot for those who wish to

try the flavours of good Italian cuisine set

against the romantic backdrop of an old

Milanese courtyard. It has two dining rooms to

guarantee a peaceful, relaxing meal. Traditional

and upgraded dishes. Closed on Sat at lunch

and on Sun. www.ristoranteconvivendo.

com. €€€. Viale San Michele del Carso, 7. T: 02

48519944. M1 Conciliazione. MAP C5.

CORTE (LA) – Located on the outskirts of

Milan, in a skillfully restructured typical early

twentieth century farmhouse, this rustic,

though elegant restaurant features beautifully

laid tables and courteous service. Imaginative,

high-quality cuisine with interesting upgraded

classical recipes. Excellent selection of wines.

Closed on Tues. www.ristorantelacorte.com.

€€€. Via Cusago, 201. T: 02 4597474. OFF MAP

DAL BOLOGNESE – This restaurant also owes

its fame to its “twin” in Rome. Here, as in the

capital, the restaurant is a favourite with VIPs,

managers and business men. Great cold cuts

and mixed boiled meats washed down with a

selection of fine wines. Closed on Sat at lunch

and on Sun. €€€. Piazza della Repubblica, 13. T:

02 62694845. M3 Repubblica. MAP G2

DITIRAMBO – Delightful restaurant in the

romantic, historic Isola Garibaldi district with

a good atmosphere and creative, traditional

Italian cuisine, prepared with passion and flair

by chef Paolo Noè and his young assistant

Yury Martoscia. Closed on Sat at lunch and on

Sun. €€€. www.ditirambocafe.it. Via Garigliano,

12. T: 02 69006955. OFF MAP. M3 Zara

DOLCE VITA – Patronized by students and

professors from the nearby Università Statale,

this restaurant is a good choice for both the

young and the connoisseurs of good food.

New signature dishes include scallops and

golden prawns, foie gras terrine, sautéed

kidneys with “riso al salto” and, each day, a

different dish-of-the-day. Home-baked bread

and fresh pasta. Closed on Sun. €€€. Via

Bergamini, 11. T: 02 58303843. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP G5

DONGIÓ – This restaurant, owned by the

Criscuolo family, is the best place to discover

cuisine from Calabria, one of the most beautiful

regions in Southern Italy. It is renowned for

its starters, the real pride of its chefs, and its

“caciocavallo silano”, a typical cheese found

in the south. Also worth trying is its “tiramisù”.

Closed on Sun. €€. Via B. Corio, 3. T: 02 5511372.

M3 Porta Romana. MAP G6

DON LISANDER – For more than sixty years, a

fashionable restaurant situated right in the

heart of Milan, just a short distance from the

Teatro alla Scala. An elegant atmosphere

and impeccable service. The menu features

traditional Lombardy and regional Italian

cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. For

dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with

persimmon sauce. www.ristorantedonlisander.it.

€€€. Via A. Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

EDONÈ – The daughter of Eros and Psyche, in

Greek mythology, the word Edoné means a

true incarnation of pleasure. A fabulous seafood

restaurant with a reputation for some of the best

fish in Milan. Simply and elegantly decorated

with a fish counter displaying only the freshest

produce. House specialities are definitely

concentrated on raw fish dishes: tartare, shellfish

platters, carpaccio, unusual combinations, classics

upgraded by the chef and mouth watering

desserts. Also offers a business lunch featuring

a selection of dishes taken from the menu for

which they only charge 18 euros. Via Orti, 31. T: 02

36534864. M3 Crocetta. MAP G7

EL CRESPIN – A combination of a trattoria and a

restaurant, this is the perfect place to savour

either Milanese food or creative fish dishes. Try the

ossobuco with risotto, the costoletta alla Milanese

(breaded veal cutlet), the linguine with lobster and

the fillet of sea bream cooked Sicilian-style. Closed

on Sun. €€€. www.elcrespin.it. Via Castelvetro, 16/18.

T: 02 33103004. MAP C1

EMILIA & CARLO – Just a few steps from the Castello

Sforzesco, it offers a good fish and meat menu.

Highlights include codfish with red onion jam and

the real “fiorentina” (Florentine-style-steak), which is

the speciality of the house. For dessert: chocolate

sorbet. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€. Via

Sacchi, 8. T: 02 862100. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4

EMILIANA TORTELLINI – This tiny restaurant,

originally famous for producing and selling

fresh pasta, only has a few tables. The young

patronne, Nadia Magnani, had the idea of

placing a few tables in her shop where, at lunch,

clients can savour a number of fabulous pasta or

other dishes. Good service and a very interesting

selection of wines. Always closed in the evening

and on Sun and Mon. €€. Via Ariberto, 17.

T: 02 58109707. M2 Sant’Agostino. MAP D6

FICO D’INDIA – True Sicilian cuisine in Milan:

Messina-style capon, “maccheroni alla Norma”,

tuna fillet with onion sauce and fish cous

cous. Closed on Sat at lunch. €€€. www.

ristorantealficodindia.it. Via R. Bonghi, 11.

T: 02 84892887. OFF MAP

FIORENZA – Set against the evocative backdrop

of the Hippodrome, in the former rooms of the

grandstand, a large room has been partitioned off

into a number of secluded areas and still features

the original imposing counters and the cream

and chocolate-coloured curtains. In addition to its

famous raw fish platter, other specialities include

the tris di mare Fiorenza (a variety of 3 different

types of fish), spaghetti with Tropea onions and

bottarga, the catch of the day or a mixed fry. Closed

on Mon and on Tues at lunch. €€€. www.trenno.it.

Piazzale dello Sport, 20 corner of via Pegaso, 6.

T: 02 33200659. OFF MAP

GIANNI E DORINA – This charming, romantic

restaurant boasts a feminine touch thanks to

Ester, its talented chef, and Dorina Chionna,

patronne and renowned sommelier. Traditional

dishes, wonderfully genuine ingredients and

menus designed especially for vegetarians,

vegans and celiacs. Closed on Sat at lunch and on

Sun. €€. www.gianniedorina.com. Via G. Pepe, 38.

T: 02 606340. M2 Garibaldi FS. MAP E1

GIANNINO – One of the oldest restaurants in Milan,

it was opened in 1989, by Pisa-born Giannino

Bindi. Boasting a 500 seating capacity, the

restaurant has a number of elegantly furnished

dining rooms decorated in light and dark shades.

Classic menus and simple food made from only

the finest, freshest ingredients. A varied menu in

keeping with the restaurant’s age-old tradition

featuring a wide selection of fish and meat,

regional dishes and mouth watering desserts.

Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch. €€. www.

giannino.it. Via V. Pisani, 6. T: 02 66986998. M3

Repubblica. MAP G2

GIRARROSTO – An historic destination in the heart

of Milan and a celebrity favourite. Must-try dishes

include “penne” with Tuscan chicken livers and

Florentine tripe. Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch.

www.algirarrosto.com. Corso Venezia, 31. T: 02

76000481. M1 Palestro, M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP G4

GIULIO PANE E OJO – A taste of Rome in Milan (but

also in other cities such as Munich and New York).

Always crowded and patronized by a young,

trendy clientele, it offers the best recipes of Roman

tradition. This restaurant is popular on account of

its good quality food, friendly atmosphere and fair

prices. Closed on Sun. www.giuliopaneojo.com.

€€. Via L.A. Muratori, 10. T: 02 5456189. M3 Porta

Romana. MAP H7

HARRY’S BAR – Situated right in front of the Teatro

Arcimboldi, this elegant restaurant, boasting

excellent service, is the perfect place to enjoy two

specialties: “risotto al salto” and the delicious trolley

of mixed boiled meats. Also offers an array of good

seafood dishes. Closed on Sun. www.harrysmilano.

it. Viale dell’Innovazione, 20. T: 02 64109060.

OFF MAP

ISOLA DEI SAPORI – A good place to take a break

from shopping. It offers all the flavours of Sardinia

with fresh fish dishes and roast suckling pig (order

in advance). Closed on Sun and on Mon at lunch.

www.ristoranteisoladeisapori.it. €€€. Via Anfossi, 10.

T: 0254100708. OFF MAP

L’ALTRA ISOLA – A stylish though simple trattoria

and a real “home from home” thanks to the food

and welcome given by its patron, Gianni Borelli,

boasting over forty years of experience in the

business. Milanese and Lombardy recipes executed

to perfection. In addition to “cassoeula”, which is

50 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


DIScovERING

THE SEcRETS

oF THE bEST cHEFS

IS NoT So DIFFIculT.

JuST TAkE A SEAT

AT THEIR TAblE.

THE FINE DINING WATERS


Dining

Clockwise from top:

CALIFORNIA BAKERY

A corner of America

in the city (p.58)

LA TORRE DI PISA

Traditional Tuscan cuisine

in a warm and welcoming

atmosphere (p.56)

CAFFÈ ZUCCA

A good place to meet for a

drink or lunch, just in front of

the Duomo (p.58)

the speciality of the house, cold cuts, “risotto”, tripe,

“ossobuchi”, “stracotto” (pot roast) with polenta and

“zabaione”. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sunday.

€€€. Via E. Porro, 8/b. T: 02 60830205. M3 Maciachini.

OFF MAP

LEO – Three intimate dining rooms featuring a

pleasantly demodè air, trattoria-style furniture

and paintings of marine subjects for one of the

best fish restaurants in town at affordable prices.

Shellfish hors d’oeuvres, fish pasta dishes, followed

by grilled fish or mixed seafood frys. No credit

cards accepted. Closed on Sun evening and on

Mon. €€€. Via Trivulzio, 26 corner of via Fontanesi.

T:02 40071445. M1 Gambara. OFF MAP

LIBERTY – This authentic bistrot, offering a pleasant

ambiance and a small inside balcony, is located

in the trendy Corso Como district. The chef,

Andrea Provenzali, is one of the city’s emerging

talents. Specialities inc paté, but also bucatini and

saffron-flavoured risotto, “costoletta alla milanese”

and warm fig strudel. Varied wine list offering

good value for money. Closed on Sat at lunch

and on Sun. €€€ www.il-liberty.it. Viale Monte

Grappa, 6. T: 02 29011439. M2 Garibaldi;

M3 Repubblica. MAP F2

MALAVOGLIA – Typically Sicilian cuisine. A historic

venue and one of the first to be know for its

Southern fare. House specialities include fresh fish,

its famous pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines)

and its tempting cannoli and cassata. Open

evenings only. Closed on Sun. Booking advisable.

www.ristorante-imalavoglia.com. €€€€. Via Lecco,

4. T: 02 29531387. M1 Porta Venezia. MAP H3

MASUELLI SAN MARCO – Milanese, Lombard and

Piedmontese cuisine at this historic Milan-based

trattoria which is still run by the family. The

restaurant has been welcoming customers in the

same way for almost a century and the menu, as

was customary in those days, still offers several

fixed dishes. Monday “boiled meat”, Tuesday,

“tripe”, Thursday, “cassoeula”, Friday cod. One of

the house favourites is the classical “risotto alla

milanese”. Great selection of wines. Closed on Sun

and on Mon at lunch. €€€. www.masuelli-trattoria.

com. Viale Umbria, 80. T: 02 55184138. OFF MAP

MATAREL – Time has stood still in this restaurant

with its antique furniture and fabulous food in

which Milanese cuisine takes centre stage. Worth

a try are risotto alla Milanese, breaded cutlets and

roast veal. Closed on Tues and on Wed at lunch.

€€€. Via L. Solera Mantegazza, 2 corner of Corso

Garibaldi, 75. T: 02 654204. M2 Moscova. MAP E3

MATTEONI (I) – Run by the Matteoni family since

1924, it has always been a favourite with writers,

poets and academics. A prevalently Tuscan

menu inc soups, meat and mushrooms. Closed

on Sun. www.imatteoni.it. €€€. www.imatteoni.

it. Piazza Cinque Giornate, 6 corner of viale Regina

Margherita. T: 02 5463520. MAP H5

MELA VERDE – Pugliese cuisine and wonderfully

fresh fish. The restaurant has a slightly pizzeriastyle

informal atmosphere and serves fabulous

Catalan-style prawns, fried anchovies and

home-made pasta like Tarantina-style orecchiette

(tomato, mussels and clams) or super seafood

spaghetti and classic fish grills or mixed fried

seafood platters. Closed on Wed and on Thurs at

lunch. €€€. Via Monviso, 36. T: 02 33600971. MAP

D1

MISTRAL – Originally established as a delicatessen in

the 60’s and later transformed into a trattoria, this

small charming venue in the heart of Milan offers a

traditional menu based on the best home-cooked

cuisine. It has a good selection of fresh fish and

an interesting assortment of vegetarian dishes.

For a real taste of Milan, its risotto dishes are an

absolute “must”. Pasta, bread and desserts are all

home-made and the restaurant has a small outdoor

dining area. Closed on Sat at midday and on Sun.

€€. www.ristorantemistral.it. Viale Monte Nero, 34.

T: 02 55019104. M3 Porta Romana. MAP H7

NAPOLI SULLA MARTESANA – Cusine from the

Campania area and Neapolitan specialities.

Their signature dish is Neapolitan-style “pasta e

fagioli” with mussles. Closed on Sun. €€€. Via G.B.

Sammartini, 21. T: 02 66982666. M3 Sondrio,

M2 Caiazzo. OFF MAP

NON SOLO LESSO – Its relaxed welcoming

atmosphere is reflected in its particularly versatile

menu: a la carte food until midnight, €15 menu at

lunch and happy hour from 6.30 to 8pm. Northern

Italian cuisine. Open every day. www.nonsololesso.

it. €€. Via G. Broggi, 13 (entrance from Via F. Redi

corner of via G. Jan) T: 02 36533440. M1 Lima.

OFF MAP

NOVELLI – This trattoria, located on the outskirts

of the city, is a part of Milan’s history. It is, in fact,

the favourite haunt of one of Italy’s most popular

celebrities, the Milanese singer, Adriano Celentano.

Lombardy and, in particular, Milanese cuisine take

centre stage. An absolute “must” are its “risotti”

(order in advance for a minimum of 5 people) and

boiled chicken. Closed on Mon. €€. Viale Padova,

344. T: 02 27207769. M2 Cascina Gobba. OFF MAP

NUOVO MACELLO – Traditional dishes, upgraded

with great skill and creativity: “risotto alla milanese”

and “cotoletta alla milanese”, but also more

experimental specialities such as “topinambur

gnocchetti” with thyme-flavoured codfish, grilled

pork spare ribs with pan-cooked cabbage and

a spicy sauce, fresh chestnut desserts, marrons

glacées and persimmon crème brulée. Closed on

Sat and Sun. €€€. www.trattoriadelnuovomacello.

it. Via Lombroso, 20. T: 02 59902122. OFF MAP

OLTREMARE – Located inside the Boscolo Exedra

Hotel in Milan, just a few steps from the Duomo,

52 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


TASTES OF THE CITY

SEVEN

With a choice of various locations scattered throughout the

city, at Seven you can relax in a charming ambience while

tasting the best meat in the world, chosen by our expert staff.

Filetto staccato (filet wrapped in a thin layer of lard), Angus ribroast,

suckling pig and other delicacies such as an assortment

of cold cuts, a selection of French and Italian cheeses, foie-gras,

fabulous deep-fried treats and… lots more besides! Fusion

cuisine that brings the world to your home, accompanied by a

fine selection of wines: over 180 labels on the list, with a choice

of 24 wines also available by the glass.

• Casa dei Ciliegi – via Bertelli, 4 – T: 02 2615190

• Corso Colombo – corso Colombo, 11 – T: 02 58101669

• Viale Montenero – viale Monte Nero, 29 – T: 02 54019867

www.sevengroup.it

More info: www.wheremilan.com

The

WHERE MILAN

MENU

www.wheremilan.com

ZIO PESCE

A welcoming, informal atmosphere, with two locations in

different areas of the city, offering a high-quality, tasty though

simple fish-based menu. At Zio Pesce you can savour Catalanstyle

lobster, oyster and seafood platters, Seafood risotto,

Imperial-style turbot, a mixed-fry of local seafood and lots

of other dishes of the best Italian and international tradition.

Defining itself as a “seafood workshop”, it guarantees fresh fish

caught on a daily basis: and, to ensure freshness at affordable

prices, the menu varies from day to day, depending on the

market offer.

The

WHERE MILAN

MENU

www.wheremilan.com

www.ziopesce.it

More info: www.wheremilan.com

The

WHERE MILAN

MENU

www.wheremilan.com

• Zio Pesce – via Cicco Simonetta, 8 – T: 02 58109145

• Zio Pesce – via Andrea Maffei, 12 – T: 02 49794967

JOE CIPOLLA

At Joe Cipolla, you can choose your meat directly from the

meat counter and have it cooked over a charcoal fire, for a

really special, unique flavour! Joe Cipolla welcomes you with an

array of house specialities: cold cuts and cheese produced by

small local manufacturers; a wide variety of meat from the best

pastures: charcoal-cooked rice, bruschette made with homebaked

bread, char-grilled onions and lots of other specialities

cooked directly over a charcoal fire; “homemade” desserts and

pasta and an excellent selection of fine wines.

• Joe Cipolla – via Vigevano, 33 – T: 02 58114363

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www.joecipolla.it

More info: www.wheremilan.com

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WHERE MILAN

MENU

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www.wheretraveler.com 53


Dining

the Oltremare restaurant expresses an innovative

concept of contemporary luxury. Decorated with

eclectic artworks, its décor, though supremely

elegant, is also somewhat unconventional, as is

its cuisine. Its sophisticated culinary philosophy

is expressed through artisan dishes, cooked

with only the freshest organic ingredients that

highlight their taste, re-evoking its regional

past in order to allow diners to experience

new and unusual flavours. Always open. www.

boscolohotels.com. Corso Matteotti, 4-6. T: 02

77679611. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

OSTERIA DA SALVO – This restaurant, furnished

marine-style, offers Sicilian cuisine. Worth

particular note, among its entrees, are, “maccaruni”

alla Norma and Sicilian seafood “risotto”, followed

by a seafood fry and courgettes. It offers some

twelve desserts including typical fresh Sicilian

cannoli. Sicilian wines. Closed on Mon. €€€.

Viale Certosa, 298. T:02 38005680. OFF MAP

OSTERIA DEL BINARI – This delightful “Osteria”

with its romantic air, also offers its clientele a

charming garden for al fresco dining. Saffron

risotto, “cotoletta alla milanese” and braised dishes

but also vegetarian cuisine. Pasta, bread and desserts

are always home-made. Open evenings only, closed

SPOTLIGHT

on Sun. €€€. Via Tortona, 1. T: 02 89409428. M2 Porta

Genova FS. MAP C7

OSTERIA LA PIOLA – An authentic “osteria” with

bottles on the shelves, well-spaced tables and good,

courteous service. Serves traditional Lombard and

Milanese fare, starting with saffron flavoured “risotto”.

Offers a good selection of wines. Closed on Sun. €€€.

Viale Abruzzi, 23. T: 02 29531271. OFF MAP

OSTERIA L’È MAISTESS – Located in a romantic

town in the heart of the country on the outskirts

of Milan, this is the ideal spot for a romantic meal

for two. It has elegant dining rooms, soft lighting

and a magnificent garden for al fresco dining. Its

chef, Cosimo Urso, offers an array of imaginative

specialities of Italian regional cuisine in keeping

with its name which, in Milanese dialect, means

“never the same”. Closed on Tues. €€€. www.

osterialemaistess.it. Via Marchesa Medici, 14 -

Gaggiano loc. Fagnano (Mi) T: 02 9085052.

OFF MAP.

OSTERIA OPERA PRIMA – Elegant luminous dining

room, cordial service and an inviting wine list.

Located in the vicinity of Milan’s “Chinatown”, this

restaurant offers traditional, high-quality meat

and fish dishes. Closed on Sat at lunch and on

Sun. €€€. www.osteriaoperaprima.it,

via P. Lomazzo, 29. T: 02 316300. MAP D1

PELLAPRAT – This restaurant, located in the heart

of the Milanese movida in the Navigli area,

was opened by the talented chef, Giacomo

Leporati. Simple though warm ambiance. Best

dishes: rabbit salad in porchetta, wild game with

“risotto alla milanese”, “cotoletta alla milanese”,

“ossobuco” and “cassouela” and shrimps with

mustard. Service and cover charge included in

the price. Open evenings only, closed on Sun.

€€€. Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 13. T: 02 58100895.

M2 Porta Genova FS. MAP D7

PANE AL PANE VINO AL VINO – A real trattoria, ideal

for an evening with friends, it has both a delightful

indoor and outdoor dining area. Service is friendly

and cordial. Serves mouth watering northern

Italian cuisine. Closed on Sun and on Mon. €€. Via

A. Tadino, 48. T: 02 2046300. M1 Lima. OFF MAP

PESA (LA) – If you’re looking for simple Milanese or

Lombard food during your stay in the city, then

this genuine “trattoria” is an absolute “must”. It has

several small dining rooms, red and white checked

table cloths and an outside dining area for warmer

summer evenings. Its wine list is really interesting

and features several superb choices. A truly

delightful atmosphere. Closed on Sun.

www.lapesatrattoria.it. €€. Via G. Fantoni, 26.

T: 02 4035907. OFF MAP

PIERO E PIA – Recipes from Nothern Italy and forty

years of history. This small, charming restaurant,

located in the Città Studi district, is the perfect

spot for a romantic dinner. Milan’s famous “bollito

misto di carni” (mixed boiled meats) is served on

Thursdays. Appetizing desserts and an interesting

selection of wines. Closed on Sun. €€€. www.

pieroepia.com. Via L. Vanvitelli, 2. T: 02 718541.

M2 Piola. OFF MAP

Dining on a Tram

Much more than panoramic, this is itinerant! The restaurant that

offers the most complete view of Milan is nothing other than a

beautifully restored vintage tram called ATMosfera, a play on

words combining the company’s acronym ATM (Azienda Trasporti

Milanesi – local public transport company) with the idea of an

atmospheric setting. In addition to the sophistication of its décor,

it offers three types of menu (meat, fish and vegetarian). The tramrestaurant

leaves every evening (except on Mon) at 8pm from

piazza Castello, corner of via Beltrami, to which it returns after

about 2 hours of relaxed sightseeing by night. During the tour,

dinner is served at a set price of €65. Booking is essential: ask your

concierge or call the toll-free number 800.80.81.81

(Mon 9am-12am; Tues-Sun 11am-7pm) www.atm-mi.it.

QUATTRO MORI – Large, well-spaced tables in

this dining room overlooking the garden. The

restaurant also has a smaller room illuminated

by 18th century light fitting and appliques. This

historic venue is one of the most renowned in

town and offers fabulous fish dishes but also

fresh, homemade pasta and a variety of meats. It

has a well-stocked wine cellar and offers a large

selection of Italian and foreign labels. Closed on

Sat at lunch. €€€. www.ristorantequattromori.it.

Largo M. Callas, 1. T: 02 878483. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4

RIBOT – Tuscan menu featuring maccheroni

Montalcino and old or Catalan-style fiorentina. The

former is made in a pan with braised vegetables

while the latter is served with raw vegetables

and balsamic vinegar. Excellent quality meat. The

ambience is pleasant and suitable for business

lunches and dinners. Highly professional service.

Closed on Mon. €€€. Via M. Cremosano, 41.

T: 02 33001646. M1 QT8. OFF MAP

RIGOLO – Established in 1958, this Tuscan restaurant

has contributed to the fame of the Brera district

and offers diners a warm, convivial atmosphere. In

the words of Oscar Wilde, “simple pleasures are the

last refuge of the complex” and, in fact, for years,

this has been a favourite haunt of famous writers

from Montale to Quasimodo, artists, Heads of State,

VIPs and newspaper editors. The menu includes

meat and fish dishes, breaded cutlets, spaghetti

54 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


TASTES OF THE CITY

MISTRAL

Originally established as a delicatessen in the 60’s and later

transformed into a trattoria, this small charming venue in the

heart of Milan offers a traditional menu based on the best

home-cooked cuisine. It has a good selection of fresh fish and

an interesting assortment of vegetarian dishes. For a real taste

of Milan, its risotto dishes are an absolute “must”. Pasta, bread

and desserts are all home-made and the restaurant has a small

outdoor dining area. Closed on Sat at midday and on Sun. M3

Porta Romana. Map H7

www.ristorantemistral.it

Viale Monte Nero, 34 – T: 02 55019104

More info: www.wheremilan.com

The

WHERE MILAN

MENU

www.wheremilan.com

CENTRO ITTICO-RAW FISH CAFÉ

Originally a wholesale fishmonger, the restaurant has a truly

original atmosphere and is a favourite with regulars and fish

lovers. Special features include a twin-level loft, a ground floor

restaurant and a lounge bar open until 2am. Fabulous raw fish,

including all types of shellfish and top-notch grilled and fried

dishes. Open daily. M1 Rovereto. Off Map

www.rawfishcafe.it

Via Martiri Oscuri, 19

T: 02 26143774

More info: www.wheremilan.com

EDONÈ

A fabulous seafood restaurant with a reputation for some of the

best fish in Milan. Simply and elegantly decorated with a fish

counter displaying only the freshest produce. House specialities

are definitely concentrated on raw fish dishes: tartare, shellfish

platters, carpaccio, unusual combinations, classics upgraded by

the chef and mouth watering desserts. Also offers a business lunch

featuring a selection of dishes taken from the menu for which they

only charge 18 euros. M3 Crocetta. Map G7

www.edonemilano.it

Via Orti, 31

T: 02 36534864

More info: www.wheremilan.com

BBQ

An elegant dining room, decorated in warm red tones highlighted

by an original collection of exotic, multi-coloured lamps, offers

guests a pleasant, homely atmosphere. House favourites include

a selection of the finest quality meats (from Piedmont. Argentina,

Bavaria and Tuscany) but also other Mediterranean-style dishes,

including fish and a mouth-watering selection of homemade

cakes for all tastes. Closed on Sat and on Sun lunch. Map H5

Via Sottocorno, 5/A

T: 02 76003571

More info: www.wheremilan.com

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www.wheretraveler.com 55


Dining

PROEDICOMUNICAZIONE

One of the few truly Kosher

restaurants in Milan,

serving an international

fish and meat menu

of delicate contrasts

The

WHERE MILAN

MENU

www.wheremilan.com

Traditions of the Middle East,

America, Asia and South America

are combined in delectable, tasty

dishes, served against the backdrop

of a warm, friendly, welcoming

ambience. Denzel uses only the

finest ingredients and rigorously

follows the rules of Kashrut. For

big appetities, try the 530 gram

hamburger or treat yourself to

ceviche and the fabulous assortment

of appetizers and side dishes.

Via G. Washington, 9 (Porta Magenta) - M1 Wagner

T: 02 48519326

Open

Sun-Thu 12am-3.30pm; 7pm-11.30pm.

Fri 12am-3.30pm.

with aragostelle (a mix between a langouste and

a prawn), soups, sliced fillet of beef with artichokes

and home-made desserts. Closed on Mon. www.

rigolo.it. Largo Treves. T: 02 804589. M2 Moscova.

MAP F3

ROSSE (LE) – “Salumi-bar”: this is how the restaurant

describes its particular speciality. Its menu features

dozens of high quality cured meats, excellent

cheeses and dishes of the day featuring pasta,

rice and vegetables. Set in a charming corner of

Milan, in corso Garibaldi, in summer, clients can

eat outside in a Parisian-style courtyard. Fabulous

selection of wines. Closed on Sun. www.lerosse.it.

€€. Corso G. Garibaldi, 79. T: 02 92870416.

M2 Moscova. MAP E3

TAVERNA DEL SACRIPANTE – Simone Suardi is one

of Milan’s youngest and most talented chefs. A

protégé of the famous Pietro Leeman, chef patron

of the famous Joia restaurant, he boasts creativity,

technical ability and intelligence. At his restaurant,

with its Parisian-bistrot type atmosphere, clients can

savour a mixture of creative, traditional dishes. In

addition to risotto, fish’n chips and fried pizza are his

“must-try” specialities. Always closed at lunch and

on Mon. €€. Viale Coni Zugna, 52. T: 02 83390065. M2

Sant’Agostino. MAP C6

TAVERNA DELLA TRISA – Cuisine from the Trentino

Alto Adige area, just a short distance from the RAI

television studios and Fiera Milano City. Some

of the typical house favourites include polenta,

soups and stewed capriolo. Good service and

food. Among the desserts, the apple strudel is

definitely worth a try. The wine list features wines

from the Trentino area and high quality grappas.

Closed on Mon. €€. Via F. Ferruccio, 1. T: 02 341304.

MAP C2

TAVERNETTA DA ELIO (LA) – A favourite with VIPs,

it offers Tuscan specialities beautifully prepared

and served by its owner, Marco Piccoli and his wife

Monica. Enjoy dishes like “crostini”, a choice of cold

cuts, “ribollita”, “panzanella” (aTuscan bread and

tomato salad) and the superb “cioncia di Collodi

con fagioli all’uccelletto” (stewed veal). The meal

ends on a perfect note with “cantuccini”, typical

Tuscan biscuits. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun.

€€€. www.tavernetta.it. Via Fatebenefratelli, 30.

T: 02 653441. M3 Turati. MAP F3

TI RICORDI – Boasting a large, luminous dining

room, this restaurant is ideal for a dinner with

friends. It serves typically Southern Italian cuisine

but also a number of Milanese specialities.

Highlights include a wood-fired oven for

sumptuous pizzas Always open. €€. www.

tiricordiristorante.it. Via G. Murat, 32. T: 02 69311398.

M3 Maciachini. OFF MAP

TORRE DEL MANGIA – Quick reliable service and a

pleasant atmosphere. This Tuscan restaurant serves

fish dishes like seafood spaghetti and sea-bass with

potatoes and onions but also meat dishes including

their renowned “bistecca alla fiorentina”. Closed on

Sun evening and on Mon. www.torredelmangia.it.

€€€. Via G.C. Procaccini, 37. T: 02 314871. MAP C2

TORRE DI PISA (LA) – This historic trattoria offers

traditional Tuscan cuisine in a warm, welcoming

atmosphere. Guests are greeted at the entrance by

a long table, spilling over with simple, genuine food

which you can watch being prepared in the openair

kitchen. Delicious food and an elegantly simple

atmosphere to make diners feel totally at home.

Closed on Sat at lunch. €€. www.trattoriatorredipisa.

it. Via Fiori Chiari, 21/5. T: 02 874877;T: 02 804483.

M2 Lanza. MAP F3

TRATTORIA MIRTA – A real “trattoria”, interpreted

in a modern-day key. The restaurant is owned by

Cristina Borgherini and her talented, chef husband,

Juan Lema, a native of Montevideo, who has lived

in Italy for over 20 years. The menu features cold

cuts, sweet-bread, home-made pasta (freshly made

every day), tagliatelle al ragù, baked buckwheat

“crespelle”, tripe with potatoes, beans and saffron,

suckling pig and tarte tatin or chocolate cake.

Closed on Sat and Sun. €€. www.trattoriamirta.it.

Piazza San Materno, 12. T: 02 91180496. M2 Udine.

OFF MAP

TRONCO (AL) – In the Garibaldi district, just near the

new Palazzo della Regione Lombardia, you will

find one of Milan’s temples of Tuscan cuisine, run

by the Zini family. A warm, friendly atmosphere

and a variety of good food. “Crostini”, “prosciutto”,

hand-cut with a sharp knife, “ribollita” and “pasta

e fagioli” and a selection of grilled meats, inc beef

entrecôte. Mushrooms in season. As at all Tuscan

establishments worth their name, the meal ends

with “cantucci”. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun.

€€€. Via G.Thaon de Revel, 10. T: 02 606072. M3 Zara.

OFF MAP

VALTELLINA – A warm ambiance, reminiscent of

mountain resorts (“Valtellina” is a wonderful valley

situated in the middle of the Italian Alps and a

favourite Milanese holiday destination) featuring

typically Alpine-style decor. Serves regional dishes

from the area, with platters of cold cuts and rich

starters. Closed on Fri and on Sat at lunch. €€€.

Via Taverna, 34. T: 02 7561139. OFF MAP

International & Ethnic Cuisine

ALACENA – The best of Mediterranean cuisine and

Spanish gastronomic tradition at this restaurant

located inside the Hotel Meliá. €€€. www.meliamilano.com.

Via Masaccio, 19. T: 02 44406. M1 Lotto.

OFF MAP

BBQ – A perfect choice for those who love chargrilled

or barbecued meat: rib roasts, chops, lamb

and steaks. The starters, chalked up daily on a

blackboard and varied each day, are also definitely

worth a try. Signature dishes: “pappardelle with

porcini mushrooms and “bistecca alla Fiorentina”

(T-bone steak) with potatoes. Great choice of

desserts. Closed on Sat and on Sun at lunch. €€€.

Via P. Sottocorno, 5/a. T: 02 76003571. MAP H5

BOCCINO (IL) – Located in the new fashion and

design district amidst photographic studios,

showrooms, fashion and advertising agencies,

it has an intimate, welcoming atmosphere and

a magnificent spacious terrace on the first floor.

Menu includes meat and fish dishes. Closed on

Sun. €€€. www.ristoranteboccino.it. Via Tortona,

21. T: 02 89415562. M2 Porta Genova FS.

MAP C7

CENTRO ITTICO/RAW FISH CAFÉ – A highly original

atmosphere for a great fish restaurant. Excellent

raw fish inc all types of shellfish and seafood

and top-notch grilled and fried dishes. €€.

56 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Dining

www.rawfishcafe.it. Via Martiri Oscuri, 19.

T: 02 26143774. M1 Rovereto. OFF MAP

COMPAGNIA GENERALE DEI VIAGGIATORI

NAVIGANTI E SOGNATORI – Japanese-style

ambience and cuisine. Savour sushi, sashimi

and a wide variety of uramaki (rice, fish and

algae rolls) while sitting on Tatami mats. A

novelty this year are: harumaki shrimps, i.e. five

fried shrimp and vegetable rolls served with a

hot sauce and a special teryaky-based sauce.

Open evenings only, closed on Mon. €€€.

www.compagniageneralemilano.com. Via P.

Sottocorno, 27. T: 02 5516154. OFF MAP

DON JUAN – Not far from the Navigli, Don Juan

is considered one of the best places in town to

eat Argentinean cuisine in Italy. The setting is

an elegant reproduction of a “casa de campo”

featuring the classic “Parrilla”, an open barbecue

grill. Meat obviously features big but so do

fabulous hors d’oeuvres, empanadas, cold cuts,

sweet-breads, various potato side dishes and

typical desserts. Closed on Sun. Booking required.

€€€. www.ristorantedonjuan.com. Via Altaguardia,

2. T: 02 58430805. M3 Porta Romana. MAP G7

EXEDRA – Young, trendy restaurant featuring good

International cuisine with creative house specialities

including dishes such as Catalan lobster, fillet of sea

bream with a sweet pepper sauce, pumpkin tortelli

and creme brulée. Closed on Sat at lunch and on

Sun. €€€. Piazzale Cadorna, 2. T: 02 72000251.

M1-M2 Cadorna FN. MAP D4

FUJI – One of the best addresses in Milan for Japanese

cuisine, this restaurant is the brain-child of an Italian

and Japanese business venture. One of the first

in the city to offer oriental food, it continues to

provide light, contemporary dishes. There is also a

sushi bar. Closed on Sat. at lunch and on Sun. €€€.

www.ristorantefujimilano.com. Viale Montello, 9.

T: 02 29008349. M2 Moscova. MAP E2

GIACOMO – Thanks to its impeccable service and

fabulous food, this is one restaurant that would

not know what the word “crisis” means. Top-notch

fish dishes with particular attention to seasonal

ingredients. A favourite VIP haunt. Great wine list.

€€€€. Via P. Sottocorno, 6 corner of via B. Cellini.

T: 02 76023313. MAP H5

GIARDINO DI GIADA (IL) – Experience and

impeccable service are the strong points of this

large, luminous restaurant. An oriental ambience

with design undertones, the lower floor houses

the modern, Jade Café “noodle bar”, featuring

cocktails and an Asian buffet. In addition to

traditional, mouth watering Asian fare it also offers

real Cantonese cuisine. Only the finest ingredients

and the freshest products, prepared in the stir-fry

version, on a hot griddle, steamed or with tofu.

The best Chinese restaurant in Milan. Closed on

Mon. www.giardinodigiada.it. Via Palazzo Reale, 5. T:

8053891. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

HONG KONG – Chinese cuisine. An elegant, evocative

atmosphere boasting good food and impeccable

service. Try the chef’s specialities like Kong Pao

chicken, i.e. chicken pieces with nuts, chilli pepper

and a special sweet soya-based sauce; the fish

dishes; Pekinese, Cantonese and smoked duck and

rice puffs for dessert. Closed on Mon at lunch. Via G.

Schiaparelli, 5. T: 02 67001992. M3 Sondrio. OFF MAP

INFINITO (L’) – A favourite with business people in

the area, it offers genuinely good food and reliable

service. Dining options include both fish and meat.

Truffles and mushrooms available in season. Closed

on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€. Via Leopardi, 25.

T: 02 4693517. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. MAP D4

LA BRISA – One of the most reliable eateries in

the centre of Milan, which remains faithful to its

famed, longstanding reputation. International and

Italian specialities inc foie gras terrine, ricotta-filled

cannelloni, fresh pasta and delicious ice-creams.

Closed on Sat and Sun at lunch. €€€. Via Brisa, 15.

T: 02 86450521. M1 Cairoli. MAP E5

MAMA CAFÈ RESTAURANT – Something good

at all hours of the day. This is the philosophy of

this restaurant which stays open from the early

morning till late at night. In the morning, a great

breakfast with lots of mouth watering treats. At

lunch, dishes and sandwiches made from the

best Italian produce. In the late afternoon, Happy

Wine, a wine aperitivo. Brunch on Sundays and,

at dinner, typical Italian regional dishes. Closed

on Sun evening. €€. www.mamacafe.it. Via

Caminadella, 7. T: 02 86995682. M2 Sant’Ambrogio.

MAP D6

MANIERA DI CARLO (LA) – Patron, Francesco

Germani has created one of the best fish

restaurants in Milan. The menu features aromatic

dishes by the talented chef, Lorenzo Santi, served

in a romantic ambiance. The restaurant has its

own parking area, a tea menu, a selection of oils

and a well-priced wine list. Closed on Sat at lunch

and on Sun. €€€. Via P. Calvi, 2. T: 02 76024261.

OFF MAP

MANNA – Matteo Fronduti, the chef patron, is

known for his imposing size and his Ghengis

Khan-type moustache but, above all, for his

wonderful cuisine. The creative names of the

dishes are in perfect keeping with this delicious

cuisine. It is possible to order half a portion for

each dish (prices are listed on the menu). Closed

on Sun. €€€ www.mannamilano.it. Piazzale

Governo Provvisorio, 6. T:02 26809153.

M1 Rovereto. OFF MAP

MEDITERRANEA –Set against an elegant

Mediterranean-style backdrop, it offers a rich and

varied menu of only the highest quality fresh

fish inc fresh seafood, crayfish and lobster either

direct from the tank or catch of the day. House

favourites are: Catalan-style lobster or crayfish

and the imperial plateau of raw fish and seafood.

Also try the fabulous fish tartare. Special area

reserved for smokers. Closed on Sun. €€. www.

ristorantemediterranea.it. Piazza Cincinnato, 4.

T: 02 29522076. M2-M3 Centrale FS.

OFF MAP

MISTER ANGUS – Formerly an old seventeenth

century convent, this warm, welcoming

restaurant, featuring open brick work and large

windows, is spread out over two floors. Some of

the best Argentinian food in Milan. Prime quality

meat, a key player on the menu, and beautifully

fresh fish. If you’re in the mood for some really

good beef, then this is the place to go. Judging by

the pictures on the walls, you might even run into

some famous soccer star. Closed on Sat at lunch.

€€. www.misterangus.com. Via Bandello, 22. T: 02

43982638. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. MAP C5

RICCIONE (A)– One of the most famous fish

restaurants in the city. Formerly patronized by

journalists and celebrities, nowadays, though

still expensive, it continues to offer first-rate fish

dishes with a large assortment of raw fish. Worth

a try are its mixed seafood fry and its Catalanstyle

shrimps and prawns. Closed on Sat at lunch

and on Mon. €€€€. www.ristoranteariccione.com.

Via T. Taramelli, 70. T: 02 683807. M3 Zara.

OFF MAP

RICERCA VINI – The winning formula of this

restaurant are its wine and Italian delicacies. You

can choose from a selection of about 2500 labels,

the perfect accompaniment to oysters or sashimi.

Closed Sat evening and on Sun. €€€. Via V. Monti,

29. T: 02 48193496. M1-M2 Cadorna FN.

MAP D4

SAMBUCO (IL) – Creative fish cuisine. Its most

famous dish is “fritto misto di mare” (mixed

seafood fry). Other specialities include crudités,

fresh seafood spaghetti and fillet of turbot.

Wonderful ice-creams (vanilla, caramel or

cinnamon flavoured) and chocolate-based

desserts. No fish on Mondays but “bollito misto”.

Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€€. www.

ilsambuco.it. Via Messina, 10 c/o Hotel Hermitage.

T: 02 33610333. MAP D2

SARLA – Sarla in Indian means “virtuous

simplicity”,the underlying philosophy of this

famous Indian restaurant which is also the best in

town. We suggest trying: “Aam Baadam” (chicken

pieces in a mango, almond and cashew nut

sauce), “Punjabi Kadhi” (vegetables and chickpea

patties in a delicate yoghurt sauce, flavoured

with aromatic Indian spices), “Lamb Korma” (lamb

cooked in a delicate cashew nut sauce) and

“Chicken Balti” (chicken breasts in a hot tomato

sauce). Closed on Sun. €€. www.sarla.it. Via G.

Stampa, 4. T: 02 89095538. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP F6

SEMPIONE 42 – Andrea Alfieri, a member of

Gualtiero Marchesi’s Euro Toques and a teacher

at the Culinary Institute of America and Roberta

Zulian, make a formidable team of chefs. Dishes

include, Parmesan flan caramelized with cream

of artichokes and eggs, “Risotto Acquerello” with

asparagus. Favourite main courses are “la mia

cotoletta” and the restaurant’s codfish speciality

while the desserts on offer include various types

of puddings, mousses and cannoli. Closed on Sat

at lunch, on Sun and Mon evening. €€€.

www.sempione42.com. Corso Sempione, 42.

T: 02 317849. MAP C2

SEVEN – A real green oasis with all the appeal

of old-world Milan, Seven has five highly

characteristic dining rooms and a veranda (with

a seating capacity of 130) . Ideal for an intimate

dinner or a dinner among friends. Cold cuts,

grilled meat and fish and soups. Great selection

of wines. The owners also have other successful

venues. Closed on Sun. €€€. www.sevengroup.it.

Via L. Bertelli, 4. T: 02 2615190. M1 Turro. OFF MAP

VIETNAMONAMOUR – Located in a small, early

twentieth century building, this is the best

restaurant in Milan for Vietnamese cuisine. “Must

try” dishes include crab soup with ginger, beef

cooked in an earthenware pot with star anise and

fillet of sea bream in lotus flower sauce. Closed on

www.wheretraveler.com 57


Dining

Italian Gelato

PAGANELLI GELATERIA DAL 1930 – Winner of

the highly prestigious Artisan of the Year prize,

awarded in 2010 by Papillon and the Regione

Lombardia, Francesco now runs the family

business, established in 1930, by his grandfather

Ugo. This legendary gelateria is still a hallmark of

everything that gelato should be and is definitely

one of the best ice-cream places in Milan (see

photo above). It offers a fabulous assortment of

gelati, sorbetti (sorbets), ghiaccioli (ice-lollies) and

granite (the singular is granita, a frozen dessert

made with a water and a syrup base, much like

sorbet). Via Adda corner of via Fara. T: 026702751.

MAP G2

GELATERIA GROM – Entirely home-made

ice-cream. Not even a trace of artificial colours

or additives and an almost maniacal choice of

all natural ingredients, Grom’s ice-cream is only

made from the freshest fruit in season, high

quality milk for the creams, free-range eggs and

a selection of the best cocoa and coffee from

Central America. Mouth-watering treats include

pistachio, Amalfi lemon, nocciola (hazelnut)

and Ribera strawberry (with a fabulously heady

flavour). Via Alberto da Giussano. T: 02 43511942.

MAP C4

GELATO ECOLOGICO E FROZEN – Only

fresh products, meaning that flavours change

according to the availability of seasonal produce.

Cool favourites include ice-cream with pine nuts,

Catawba grapes and ultra-dark chocolate. Also

carries an assortment of ice-cream made for

people suffering from food intolerances.

Via Ravizza, 5. T: 02 48010917. MAP A4

GELATERIA 54 – Possibly one of the most

famous ice-cream shops in the city, boasting

over 25 years of activity. Mainly oriented towards

home-made gelato, its best cream flavours are

pistachio, pine-nut, cinnamon and almond, while

in the fruit range, also definitely worth a try are

fig and peach. One of its specialities is chocolate

with orange. Via Canonica, 81. T: 02 3491044.

MAP D2

GELATERIA MIRTILLA – If we were awarding a

prize for frendliness, this gelateria would win it.

In addition to superlative ghiaccioli, one of the

house specialities, other fab flavours include

camomile, pineapple and cloves, wild fennel,

strawberries with wine or rhubarb and polenta.

Largo O. Murani. T: 02 7385587. OFF MAP

Sun. €€€. www.vietnamonamour.it.

Via A. Pestalozza, 7. T: 02 70634614. M2 Piola.

OFF MAP

YACOUT – The name of a famous restaurant

in Marrakech, the ambience is reminiscent

of a private residence in the Medina. Spread

over three levels, the restaurant has a tiled

water feature on the ground floor. It offers

Mediterranean cuisine and an array of enticing

Moroccan food: pastille (fish, vegetables and

chicken) and harira soup (a soup made from

pulses served with dates and lemon) tajine and

couscous. Only open in the evening from 6.30pm

to 2.30am. €€€. www.yacout.it. Via Cadore, 23-25.

T: 02 5462230. OFF MAP

Pizza

DA GIULIANO – Though somewhat Spartan,

this venue offers delicious sliced pizza, either

in a simpler version (their basic, tomato and

mozzarella slice is absolutely fantastic) or with a

filling. A hot favourite with the Milanese, its fans

have been flocking here in droves since the ‘70’s.

The perfect place to catch a quick snack after the

theatre. Closed on Mon. €. Via P. Sarpi, 60.

T: 02 341630. MAP D2

DA RITA E ANTONIO – This restaurant, famous for

its authentic Neapolitan pizza, i.e. round, not too

big and thin-crusted, is located next to the Teatro

Dal Verme, just near Parco Sempione and the

Castello Sforzesco. It also serves fresh pasta and

an assortment of meat and fish dishes. €€. Via G.

Puccini, 2. T: 02 875579. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4

FRIJENNO MAGNANNO – The epitome of

Neapolitan tradition, it serves utterly delicious

pizzas (try the version with mozzarella di bufala

or anchovies) as well as several regional dishes.

To end the meal, fabulous desserts like “babà”,

“pastiera” or “sfogliatella” (typical Neapolitan

pastries). Closed on Mon. €€. Via B. Marcello, 93.

T: 02 29403654. M2 Caiazzo. OFF MAP

GEMELLI – Fabulous pizza made by the Falcone family,

originally natives from the Amalfi coast, this is the

place that has taught the world how to make pizza.

The house speciality is the “Gemelli pizza”: tomatoes,

mozzarella, mushrooms, eggs and chilli pepper.

Other dishes, all of Mediterranean origin, are also

available. Their signature dessert is “cassata”, a typical

delicacy from Southern Italy. Closed on Sat. €€.

Via della Torre, 1. T: 02 2619809. M1 Turro. OFF MAP

PIZZACCIA – There is no doubt that, at this venue,

pizza takes centre stage. However, also worth trying

are its fresh pasta dishes or codfish with polenta. For

those who prefer meat, the restaurant’s char-grilled

Angus-Beef is also absolutely delicious. Home-made

desserts. Closed on Sun and on Mon at lunch. €€.

www.lapizzaccia.it. Via Don Bosco, 11 corner of

piazza San Luigi. T: 02 57404576. M3 Lodi TIBB.

OFF MAP

PIZZA E SFIZIO – Gennaro, a Neapolitan from Santa

Lucia, hails from the home of pizza. Treat yourself

to a fabulous, crisp pizza with a thin crust either in

the orange dining room or outside. Also serves a

number of other Neapolitan dishes. Closed on Sun.

€. Via T. Taramelli, 60. T: 02 66804594. M3 Zara.

OFF MAP

QP – Contemporary, minimalist decor, small tables and

paper napkins. QP has a very interesting wine list

and carries a number of top-notch beers including

the rare Amber dei Monaci della Cascinazza di

Buccinasco. Neapolitan cuisine and pizzas of

the traditional, sea-food, capricciosa and diavola

type. The highlight of the house is its “chiù pizza”

speciality, featuring eight different types of filling.

Closed on Mon. €€. Via Pavia, 8. T: 02 89423445.

OFF MAP

SPONTINI – Renowned for its outstanding sliced pizza

topped with tomatoes, mozzarella and anchovies.

Soft with a crisp base, the pizza is baked in a woodfired

pizza oven. Owned by Massimo Innocenti, it

has been a favourite with pizza fans since the ‘50’s.

Closed on Mon. Other branches can also be found

in via Marghera and in viale Papiniano. €. www.

pizzeriaspontini.it. Via G. Spontini, 4. T: 02 2047444.

M1 Lima. OFF MAP

Tasting Experience

BIANCOLATTE – An elegant bistrot where white is a

dominant colour both in terms of the decor and

the menu. It offers an assortment of delicious Italian

treats and desserts: pasta dishes, chicken Milanesestyle,

fresh or matured cheeses and piadine but also

ice cream, cappuccino and brioches. Open Mon

7.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.30am-midnight; Sat-Sun

8am-midnight. www.biancolattemilano.it. Via F.

Turati, 30. T: 02 62086177. M3 Turati. MAP G3

CAFFÈ VERGNANO – A combination of old-world

Italian elegance and contemporary taste and

design. The secrets of its success: the highest

quality coffee beans are purchased directly in their

places of origin and roasted according to rigorously

traditional methods. The ideal place to get to know

and appreciate not only the aroma of real Italian

coffee but also a variety of unusual food. Always

open. www.caffevergnano.com. Via Speronari, 3. T:

02 86996858 M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

CAFFÈ ZUCCA – Situated in front of the Duomo, at

the entrance to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, this

historic cafè holds the honour of supposedly having

introduced Milan to the aperitivo in the Eighties.

A meeting point for artists, writers and politicians,

this is a good place to meet for a drink or lunch.

Highlights include “Foamed Espresso” (based on an

idea by Lavazza in collaboration with the famous

Catalan chef Ferran Adriá) and Zucca’s renowned

rabarbaro, a delicious bittersweet drink made with

rhubarb. Closed on Mon. €€. www.caffemiani.it.

Piazza Duomo, 21. T: 02 86464435. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP F5

CALIFORNIA BAKERY – A corner of America where

you can relax and take a break from the hustle

and bustle of city life and taste typical specialities

prepared with only the finest ingredients. Goodies

on offer inc homemade cheesecake, muffins, apple

pie, stuffed bagels and doughnuts to delight your

palate either at breakfast or lunch. Also available,

fabulous savoury quiches of all types. A warm

welcoming atmosphere offset by shabby chic

furnishings and an open oven. Different menus

served at different times. Several locations (Piazza

Sant’Eustorgio, 4; Viale Premuda, 44; Largo Augusto).

Always open. www.californiabakery.it. Piazza

Sant’Eustorgio, 4. T: 02.39811538. M2 Porta Genova

FS. MAP E7

58 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


CALLEGARO – Old-style bakeries are a thing of the

past. The new ones also encompass cafés, tea

rooms, cocktail bars and trattorie. Red bricks and

wood covered walls, open piping, mirrors, poufs,

design armchairs and a large classic glass light fixture

dominate the bread counter in this bakery which

has undergone a total makeover. Founded twenty

years ago, the traditional products made by the

Callegaro family (“small ricotta cakes”, “cremonesi”

and the “spires of the Duomo”) are still on offer

alongside new experimental foods such as bread

sushi, cold organic and traditional dishes which can

be eaten at lunch. Always open. via Solferino, 18. T:

02 29000465. M2 Moscova. MAP F3

CUCCHIAIO DI LEGNO (IL) – The perfect place for a

quick, delicious snack: you can purchase Italian deli

delights such as ham and salami and high-quality

cheese as well as a range of select wines, chocolate

and even cooking utensils. Tastings and cookery

classes given by chefs and sommeliers. Closed on

Sun and Mon. €€. www.ilcucchiaiodilegno.it. Via

Ponte Vetero, 13. T: 02 87388670. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4

DE’ CHERUBINI – Coffee, cappuccino and brioches,

the key ingredients of a typically Italian breakfast. Its

elegant interior (the furnishings originate from an

SPOTLIGHT

early twentieth century chemist shop in Turin) is the

perfect place to enjoy real croissants while sipping

your coffee or cappucino. Founded as a bar, it has

now become an “in” place for a typically Milanese

aperitivo, set against the atmospheric backdrop of

the Navigli. Closed on Sun afternoon. Via Trincea

delle Frasche, 2. T: 02 83242346. M2 Porta Genova

FS. MAP E7

FRANTOI CELLETTI & CULTIVAR – The place to

discover the taste of Italian olive oil set against

the romantic backdrop of an old reconverted

olive-press. Culture and good food, for a unique

experience, amidst pizza and regional specialities,

with oil playing a lead role. Fun tastings and an

aperitivo every evening from 7.30pm onwards.

Closed at lunch. €€. www.frantoicelletti.com. Via L.

Zuccoli, 6 corner of via C. Gluck, 56. T: 02 66983712.

M1 Pasteur, M3 Sondrio. OFF MAP

FIORAIO BIANCHI CAFFÈ – A highly original

ambiance amidst Parisian and Milanese-style

furniture and vases of beautifully fresh flower

arrangements. The menu, accompanied by a

fabulous selection of wines by the glass, offers

seasonal dishes made from only the finest quality

ingredients. Superlative desserts and tea tasting in

the afternoon. Booking required. Open Mon-Sat

8am-midnight. www.fioraiobianchicaffe.it. Via

Montebello, 7. T: 02 29014390. M2 Moscova.

MAP F3

LUINI – A Milan institution since 1948. At this standup

counter near the Galleria, you’ll have to elbow

your way through a throng of well-dressed patrons

to purchase the house specialty: “panzerotto”,

a pocket of pizza crust stuffed with all sorts of

ingredients, including the basic cheese-andtomato.

Service is quick and efficient. Open Mon

10am-3pm; Tues-Sat 10am-8pm. €. www.luini.it.

Via Santa Radegonda, 16. T: 02 86461917. M1-M3

Duomo. MAP F5

PANDENUS – In one of the city’s trendiest and multiethnic

districts, even a sandwich bar can become

a cool haunt. Its name in Milanese dialect means

“nut bread”. A paradise of Italian treats with freshly

baked pizza, focaccia, cakes and brioches. On

weekends it offers a fabulous brunch from 12noon

to 4pm. Informal aperitivo every day from 6pm to

9.30pm. www.pandenus.it. Via A. Tadino, 15. T: 02

29528016. M1 Porta Venezia. MAP H3

PANINO GIUSTO – The “panino” (sandwich) is

an Italian and Milanese speciality, which holds

enormous appeal on account of its mouth

watering ingredients, above all, Italian deli delights

such as ham, salami, cheese and vegetables. The

establishment offers some of the best “Panini” in

Italy including one of the most popular, truffle and

salmon. It also serves other dishes including cold

roast beef and “vitello tonnato”. €€.

www.paninogiusto.it. Corso G. Garibaldi, 125.

T: 02 6554728. M2 Moscova.

MAP F2

PASTICCERIA MARCHESI – Pralines and pastries,

biscuits and homemade panettone (year-round),

chocolates, sweets and over thirty different types

of cream cakes, cannoncini and éclairs. It still retains

its original early nineteenth century atmosphere

and has a counter at which you can drink a cup of

coffee accompanied by tiny, mouth watering treats.

Pastries baked fresh on a daily basis and for the

holiday season. A truly sweet treat. Closed on Mon

and on Sun afternoon. www.pasticceriamarchesi.it.

Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11. T: 02876730. M1 Cairoli.

MAP E5

Aperitivo Avenue

Arco della Pace (Arch of Peace) provides the backdrop for life

in the surrounding district of Piazza Castello and Parco Sempione.

The monument is one of the most interesting episodes of

Neoclassical architecture in the city and one of the best places

in town to enjoy the “movida Milanese”. Five hundred meters

of bars, where you can savour a delightful Italian coffee, sip

an aperitivo or eat at one of the many high-class restaurants

scattered around the neighbourhood. Arco della Pace usually

gets very crowded at night, especially on Saturdays and Sundays.

If you are in search of a truly Milanese atmosphere and lots of fun

besides, then this is definitely the place to go.

PESCHERIA DA CLAUDIO – Is an upscale seafood

shop, aperitivo bar and recently also a restaurant

serving an array of pesce crudo (raw fish). One of

the oldest seafood places in the city and definitely

the most famous, it is distinguished by its

fabulously fresh produce. Mon 11am-8pm; Tues-Sat

9am-9.30pm. €€€. www.pescheriadaclaudio.it.

via Cusani, 1. T: 02 8056857. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4

PECK – A paradise for food lovers. At this high-class

delicatessen, for years an authentic temple of

Milanese taste, you will find the best of Italian

excellence, from cured meats to sauces, from

wines to liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil. Spread

out over three floors, Peck is also a great place

for an unforgettable stopover, thanks to its large

sampling areas. The search for quality is Peck’s

primary aim, achieved through a careful selection

of products from all over the world. A totally

worthwhile gastronomic experience. Closed on

Sun. €€€. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161.

M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

www.wheretraveler.com 59


Entertainment

Seventh Floor with a View Over the Duomo

A paradise of taste featuring an array of food and wine that pays tribute to all things Italian with a

breathtaking view over the spires of the Duomo. This jewel is la Rinascente Food&Restaurants on

the 7th floor of la Rinascente of Milan in piazza Duomo and features a Food Market brimming with rare

and fabulous delicacies, all origin controlled. It also offers visitors a choice of as many as nine bars and

restaurants designed to cover the entire spectrum of taste: from the Sushi Bar to the Mozzarella Bar,

from slow food sandwiches to the Oyster Bar. Open 7 days a week until midnight.

www.rinascente.it. Piazza Duomo (dedicated entrances also on via Santa Radegonda, 1 and via San Raffaele, 2). T: 02 8852471

For more detailed listings, please see

www.wheretraveler.com

Aperitivo

BAR STRAF – The street bar of the Straf design hotel

in the heart of Milan. The bar echoes the basic

materials used inside the hotel, such as concrete

walls and floors, although here the interior

designer Vincenzo De Cotiis has created a sort of

spatial overwriting by using a hyper-decorative

style. Eclectic happy hour, often with DJ set and

live music, from 6pm. Open every day from 9am

to midnight. www.straf.it. Via San Raffaele, 3.

T: 02 80508715. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

BENTO BAR – This trendy, contemporary bar with an

international atmosphere offers classic cocktails

and drinks featuring a saké or green tea base

served with snacks and Japanese specialities.

From Mon-Sun 6.30pm-9pm. www.bentobar.com.

Corso G. Garibaldi, 104. T: 02 6598075. M2 Moscova.

MAP E2

BIFFI IN GALLERIA – Founded in 1867 by Pastry chef

to His Majesty, Paolo Biffi, this is one of Milan’s oldest

cafés situated in the heart of the Galleria Vittorio

Emanuele, just a stone’s throw from the Duomo.

Patronized by industry magnates, politicians and

members of Milan’s high society, it also serves

sophisticated aperitivi. Mon-Sun

2pm-11pm. www.biffigalleria.it. Via U. Foscolo, 3.

T: 02 8057961. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

BLANCO MILANO – A chic, intimate atmosphere

in which light is an integral part of the design. An

off-shoot of its famous Formentera counterpart.

Aperitivo on Mon-Sat 6.30pm-9.30pm. Closed on Sun.

www.blancomilano.com. Via G.B. Morgagni, 2. T: 02

29405284. M1 Porta Venezia Zara. MAP H3

BOBINO CLUB – New York-style lounge bar

distinguished by its attention to detail and

sophisticated interior design. Its aperitivo is

characterized by its wide selection of cocktails and

buffet featuring a number of Italian specialities like

wood-fired pizza and oriental snacks. Tues-Sat from

7pm. www.bobinoclub.it. Imbarcadero Darsena,

Piazzale A. Cantore. T: 02 36559070. M2 Porta Genova

FS. OFF MAP

CAFFÈ DELLA PUSTERLA – Open daily for breakfast,

lunch or afternoon tea. Come aperitivo time, it offers a

rich buffet of sweet and savoury snacks. From 6.30pm.

Free wireless connection. Via E. De Amicis, 22. T: 02

89402146. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. MAP D5

CIRCLE – Located in the Tortona area, in the heart of the

design district, this ultra-trendy “lounge & restaurant”

is located inside the headquarters of the Italian Diesel

store. Innovative and cool, it is open from 7 in the

morning to 2 at night. Great music and food. Saturday

Brunch from 12noon to 4pm. www.circlemilano.com.

Via E. Stendhal, 36. T: 02 42293745. M2 Porta Genova

FS. MAP B7

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60 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Entertainment

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of

establishments recommended by the editors of

Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers.

MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in BOLD at the end of each

listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the

street maps on pages 78-79.

INFORMATION

Several venues offering food are included in

this section. These are considered as meeting

places rather than gourmet addresses and

thus explain our decision to list them here

rather than under Dining. Most major theatre

productions are listed here, together with a

list of other entertainment. Since programme

times are subject to change (often on a daily

basis) it is impossible to list all of them here.

We therefore suggest that you double-check

details regarding specific programme times.

Major events can be found in the “Where Now”

section. Open-air markets are an excellent

opportunity not only to make purchases but

also to acquaint visitors with the folklore of the

city or indulge in VIP watching. For this reason,

we have listed them here rather than under

“Shopping”. All details are correct at the time of

going to press but times can, and do, change.

Always ask your concierge to double-check

all details.

COVA – Founded in 1817, by none other than one of

Napoleon’s soldiers. Thanks to its strategic position,

in the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, this

venue is a true Milanese classic. Established as

a pasticceria, it also offers a house aperitivo: an

infusion of herbs and flowers based on a secret

recipe. Open from 7.45 am to 8.30 pm. www.

pasticceriacova.com. Via Montenapoleone, 8. T: 02

76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

DESEO – This elegant, crowded lounge-restaurant

is situated just a few metres from the Arco della

Pace. Boasting a sophisticated setting, it offers

delicious cocktails and a rich buffet. It also has a

small tobacconist’s counter for the joy of smokers.

Aperitivo from 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Corso Sempione,

2. T: 02 315164. MAP D3

FASHION CAFÉ – An architectural project based on

a “home experience”, but also a hot favourite with

industrial magnates, models and young upmarket

Milanese trend-setters. Open from 9am to 3pm.

Aperitivo from 6.30pm to 9.30pm. After dinner dj

set on Thurs and Sun. www.fashioncafe.it. Via San

Marco, 1. T: 02 6572021. M2 Lanza. MAP F3

JAZZ CAFÉ – A multi-functional venue offering an

eclectic cuisine and elegant entertainment, in

an informal setting. It serves an array of house

cocktails and fine whiskies. Its aperitivo is on offer

every day from 6.30pm to 10pm. Sushi aperitivo

on Wed nights from 7.30pm to 10pm. www.

ristorantejazzcafe.com. Corso Sempione, 8. T: 02

33604039. MAP D3.

GIN ROSA – One of the oldest and most historic

venues in Milan where tradition stands for

high-class service, a vast assortment of drinks (in

particular wines and whiskies) and a sophisticated

environment. When aperitivo time comes around, it

offers a selection of fine wines and the famous Gin

Rosa cocktail. www.gin-rosa.it.

Galleria San Babila, 4/B. T: 02 794802.

M1 San Babila. MAP G4

GLOBE – An elegant lounge bar and restaurant with a

panoramic terrace on the 8th floor of Coin, one of

the city’s best-stocked and trendiest department

stores. The aperitivo comes with a rustic buffet inc

cold cuts and cheeses but also platters of select raw

fish and upmarket wines. From 6.30pm to 9.30pm

every day (Mondays till 9pm). www.globeinmilano.

it. Piazza Cinque Giornate, 1. T: 02 55181969. MAP H5

EL TOMBON DE SAN MARC – This historic

Milanese establishment was opened in 1963, in

the picturesque Brera district. A restaurant and

American bar, it serves typical Milanese fare until

11.30pm. Live music on Thurs, Fri and Sat. Aperitivo

served from 6.30pm. Via San Marco, 20.

T: 02 6599507. M2 Moscova, M3 Turati. MAP F3

EXPLOIT – One of Milan’s most popular and trendy

hotspots, this sophisticated, casual-chic venue is

located in the Ticinese area, in front of the “Colonne

di San Lorenzo”. The bar describes its aperitivo as

“social”, you never know whom you might meet!

From 6pm to 9.30pm.

www.exploitmilano.com. Via Pioppette, 3.

T: 02 89408675. MAP E6

LIVING LIQUEURS & DELIGHTS – A seductive,

atmospheric bar overlooking the Arco della Pace

and the green areas of Parco Sempione. One of the

most popular aperitivo venues in the city, a great

place to chill after work. Open from 8am to 2am.

www.livingmilano.com. Piazza Sempione, 2. T: 02

33100824. MAP D3

METROPOLIS – Lounge-bar & Restaurant, a meeting

place for friends and business associates and the

ideal place to relax and have an aperitivo after work.

Just a short distance from the Stazione Centrale.

From 6.30pm to 9.30pm.

www.cafemetropolis.it. Via V. Pisani, 5.

T: 02 67171746. M3 Repubblica. MAP G2

PASTICCERIA BIFFI – A pasticceria established in 1847,

its name is linked to the invention of “panettone”,

the famous Milanese Christmas cake, exported

throughout the world. A taste of old Milan: quality

and impeccable service. In the late afternoon, it

serves traditional aperitivi accompanied by a buffet.

Open every day from 6.30am to 8.30pm. www.

biffipasticceria.it. Corso Magenta, 87. T: 02 48006702.

MAP C5

RADETZKY – An ultra-chic, multi-functional,

status-symbol venue. At aperitivo time, look out

for a number of beautifully dressed clients and

fashionistas sipping their drinks on the pavement.

Aperitivo from 6pm to 9pm. Largo La Foppa, 5.

T: 02 6572645. M2 Moscova. MAP E2

REFEEL – Located in the elegant, historically rich

Porta Romana area, Refeel offers its clientele a

relaxed, low-key ambience and is the perfect

place to gossip over a Gin Fizz cocktail. Different

atmospheres for different times of the day. The

kitchen is open every day from 10am. Jazz evenings

on Tuesdays. Aperitivo from 6.30pm to 9.30pm.

www.refeel.it. Viale Sabotino, 20.

T: 02 58324227. M3 Porta Romana. MAP H7

Milanese

“Happy Hour”

Milan is the home of the Aperitivo and

Happy Hour in the city is most definitely a

ritual which no Milanese worth his/her salt

is prepared to forego. The Aperitivo, the

beloved Milanese tradition of pre-dinner

drinks, is accompanied by complimentary

“stuzzichini” and an all-you-can-eat buffet.

Spreads range from traditional olives, nuts.

cheeses and potato chips to awesome

pasta dishes, bruschetta, cold cuts, crudités,

raw fish and fruit salads. Generally, lasting

for 3 hours from 6 to 9pm (though most

people rarely get there until 7pm), the

aperitivo scene has become an evening

meeting for people of all ages. Cocktails

– alcoholic or not – are expertly mixed and

a “Negroni”, “Negroni sbagliato” (a delicious

mix of prosecco, red vermouth and Aperol

instead of gin) or a “Spritz” are Milanese

specialities. Drink prices range from about

€7-10 although several of the more luxe,

upmarket places might ask as much as €15.

A great way of relaxing at the end of a long

day and the perfect opportunity to enjoy a

fabulous cocktail paired with good food at

affordable prices.

ROIALTO – A spacious, elegant bar-restaurant,

distinguished by several buffets counters and a

wide selection of cocktails. Aperitivo from 6pm to

10pm. Closed on Mon. www.roialtogroup.it. Via P.

della Francesca, 55. T: 02 34936616. MAP B1

SANT’AMBROEUS – A traditional meeting place,

since 1936, just a few steps away from the

Teatro alla Scala. The aperitivo spread includes

international cocktails and delicious appetizers

based on the theme of the day: oysters, salmon

or Parma ham. Open Tues-Sun 7.30am-8.30pm.

Aperitivo from 5.30pm to 8.30pm. Closed on

Mondays. www.santambroeusmilano.it. Corso G.

Matteotti, 7. T: 02 76000540. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

SPEAKEASY – Several small lounges and bar stools,

bathed in a pleasant play of soft lighting. One of

the richest aperitivo buffets in Milan and also one

of the longest. Aperitivo is served from 7pm to

9pm and on Sun till 1am. www.speakeasy.it. Via

Castelfidardo, 7. T: 02 653645. M2 Moscova. MAP F2

VICTORIA CAFÉ – A historic, Liberty-style venue

situated just behind the Teatro alla Scala and a

short distance from the Duomo. Open every day

for a cup of coffee or a quick meal. Its rich aperitivo

runs from 6pm to 9pm. Via Clerici, 1. T: 02 8053598.

M1 Cordusio. MAP F5

TRUSSARDI CAFÉ – Located on the ground floor of

Palazzo Trussardi in Piazza della Scala and run by

the chef, Andrea Berton, this is the ideal place for

those more relaxed moments. Complete with an

outdoor area and a vertical garden, it provides

an eco-sustainable backdrop for trendy aperitivi.

Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-11pm; Sat noon-11pm.

www.trussardi.it/trussardi_cafe. Piazza della Scala, 5.

T: 02 80688295. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

www.wheretraveler.com 61


Entertainment

ZUCCA – Zucca in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

II is much more than just a historic café, it is an

institution. After performances at La Scala, Verdi

and Toscanini were known to stop here for a

nightcap. Today, it still offers a traditional Aperitivo.

An experience well worth trying. www.caffemiani.

it. Piazza del Duomo, 21. T: 02 86464435. M1-M3

Duomo. MAP F5

Brunch

CIRCLE – This “lounge & restaurant” is situated in the

heart of the design district, in the Tortona area, at

the Diesel Headquarters. Trendy and innovative,

it is open from 7.30 in the morning to 2 at night.

There is always music, with great food. Brunch on

Saturdays noon to 4pm. Closed on Sunday. www.

circlemilano.com. Via E. Stendhal, 36. T: 02 42293745.

M2 Sant’Agostino. MAP B7

DESEO – Just a short distance from the Arco della Pace,

an elegant, people-filled lounge-restaurant with

a good vibe. There is also a small tobacconist’s for

the joy of smokers. Sunday brunch from noon to

3.30pm. Corso Sempione, 2. T: 02 315164. MAP D3

GLOBE – Sophisticated lounge bar and restaurant with

a panoramic terrace on the eighth floor of Coin, one

of the best-stocked and trendiest department stores

in the city. Its Sunday brunch, served from noon to

4pm, offers an array of Mediterranean specialities.

Reservations advisable. www.globeinmilano.it.

Piazza Cinque Giornate, 1. T: 02 55181969. MAP H5

SPOTLIGHT

H CLUB DIANA – Bar-foyer of the hotel Sheraton

Diana Majestic, renowned for its Sunday brunch

and its happy hour which goes on until 10pm.

Open daily from 10am to 1am. Live Dj on Tuesday,

Wednesday and Thursday evenings.

www.sheraton.com/dianamajestic. Viale Piave, 42.

T: 02 20581. M1 Porta Venezia.

MAP H3

JAZZ CAFÉ – A chic trendy location offering an

eclectic cuisine and elegant entertainment, in an

informal, friendly atmosphere. Its brunch is served

on Saturdays and Sundays from 11.30am to 3pm.

www.ristorantejazzcafe.com. Corso Sempione, 8.

T: 02 33604039. MAP D2

METROPOLIS – A meeting place for the metropolitan

tribe and business people. Brunch is served on

Saturdays and Sundays from 12.30am to 3pm.

Just a short distance from the Stazione Centrale.

www.cafemetropolis.it. Via V. Pisani, 5.

T: 02 67171746. M3 Repubblica. MAP G2

PANDENUS – In one of the city’s trendiest, multiethnic

areas, even a bakery can become a fun, city

favourite. Its name in dialect means “nut bread”. A

paradise of Italian treats, including pizzas, focaccia

and freshly baked cakes and brioches, to be

bought or eaten on the spot. A “not-to-be-missed”

brunch is served on the weekend from noon to

4pm. Informal aperitivo every day from 6pm to

9.30pm. www.pandenus.it. Via A. Tadino, 15.

T: 02 29528016. M1 Porta Venezia.

MAP H2

REFEEL – Located in the elegant, historically

rich Porta Romana area, Refeel is an excellent

combination of elegance and vitality. Different

atmospheres for different times of the day.

The kitchen is open every day from 10am. Jazz

evenings on Tuesdays. Brunch is served on

Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 4pm.

www.refeel.it. Viale Sabotino, 20. T: 02 58324227.

M3 Porta Romana. MAP H7

TRIENNALE DESIGN CAFÉ – Set against the

backdrop of one of the most important museums

in the city, it offers a traditionally Americanstyle

brunch. Elegant though informal, it is also

suitable for children. A trendy bar and an exclusive

restaurant resulting from the expertise of the chef

Carlo Cracco and the architect Michele De Lucchi.

Brunch on Sun from 11.45am to 4.30pm. At the

Triennale di Milano, Viale Alemagna, 6. T: 02 875441.

M1-M2 Cadorna. MAP D4

TWELVE – The quality and variety of flavours, warm

colours and a welcoming atmosphere make this

Sunday brunch an experience to which customers

look forward the whole week. The rich, mouth

watering buffet includes cheese and Italian cold

cuts but also hamburgers and home-made cakes.

www.twelvemilano.it. Viale Sabotino, 12.

T: 02 89073876. M3 Porta Romana. MAP H7

SPEAKEASY – One of the first places in Milan to

have introduced brunch. Local American style

atmosphere, reminiscent of the ‘20’s, featuring

wood boiserie and brick walls. On Sundays, from

12am to 4pm, it serves a “not-to-be-missed” brunch

accompanied by a mug of Nescafé and an array of

newspapers and magazines. www.speakeasy.it. Via

Castelfidardo, 7. T: 02 653645. M2 Moscova. MAP F2

Casino&Gambling

International Vibe

Eclecticism characterizes Bar Straf’s happy hour. Inaugurated in 2004,

this street bar, named after the Straf design hotel, is located in the heart

of Milan. At “aperitivo” time, it offers internationally inspired DJ sets, live

music and special events. Open every day until midnight. “À la carte”

menu and sandwiches available all day. Saturday to Monday, happy

hour from 6pm to 9.15pm. Tuesday to Friday, happy hour from 6pm to

10pm. Sunday brunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm. Every Tuesday,

live music from 6.30pm. Wednesday to Friday, live DJ set from 7pm.

www.straf.it. Via S. Raffaele, 3. T: 02 80508715. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

CASINO MUNICIPALE DI CAMPIONE D’ITALIA –

Though existing outside of its fatherland, this tiny

piece of Italian soil, located in Switzerland, is home

to Europe’s largest Casino and can be reached

in just under an hour from the centre of Milan.

Its beautiful new headquarters, designed by the

architect Mario Botta, are set within an elegant,

international ambience. The casino offers roulette,

chemin de fer, baccarat, black jack, poker and slot

machines. It also has two in-house restaurants.

Open Sun 10.30pm-5am; Mon-Thurs 11.30pm-5am;

Fri 11.30pm-6am; Sat 10.30pm-6am.

www.casinocampione.it. Piazzale Milano, 2

- Campione d’Italia (CO). T: 00800 80077700 (free

phone). About 70km from Milan. OFF MAP

CASINO DI LUGANO – The third largest Swiss financial

market and an important tourist hub, Lugano is

home to the famous casino nestling on the banks

of Lake Lugano. Defined as a “play boutique”

on account of its stylish, alluring atmosphere, it

operates an all games casino for an unlimited

number of tables and slot machines. Restaurant

with panoramic terrace, offering a special business

lunch menu during the day. Open Sun-Thurs 12am-

4am. Fri-Sat 12am–5am. www.casinolugano.ch.

Via Stauffacher, 1 - Lugano (Switzerland).

T: 0041 91 9737111. About 70km from Milan. OFF MAP

CASINO DI SAINT VINCENT – The small town of

Saint Vincent, home to the famous casino since

1947, is set within the magnificent mountainous

62 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


MILAN EXPERIENCE

CAFFÈ LETTERARIO

Located inside the Teatro Grassi and its 15th century cloisters,

restored to their former glory following in-depth restructuring

work, the Caffè Letterario, run by Soti’s Events, offers its

customers a catering service 7 days a week. In addition to being

available for business lunches, tempting happy hours and

delectable Sunday brunches, it is also open to the public during

the performances held at the Fondazione Piccolo. Map E3

www.sotisevents.com

Via Rovello, 2

T: 02 72333505

More info: www.wheremilan.com

CACIO DIVINO

A luminous, welcoming venue located in the Parco delle Basiliche

district, where you can relax and take your time while enjoying its

first-rate food and wine. A star player on its menu is cheese, either

alone or combined with other ingredients, to offer diners a rich

array of different, mouth watering flavours: approximately 300

different types of typically Italian and international cheeses and a

large selection of prestigious wines. Map E7

www.caciodivino.com

Via Santa Croce 4 – T: 02 83242350

More info: www.wheremilan.com

MORESKO HAMMAM CAFÉ

A corner of Istanbul transplanted in Milan. It offers an aperitivo

with massage included. Customers not only can taste typical

foods and beverages but also learn how to belly dance. Separate

hammam for men and women. Reservations necessary. M1

Gambara. Off map

www.moresko.it

Via Rubens, 19

T: 02 4046936

More info: www.wheremilan.com

BIANCOLATTE

An elegant bistrot where white is a dominant colour both in terms

of the decor and the menu. It offers an assortment of delicious

Italian treats and desserts: pasta dishes, chicken Milanese-style,

fresh or matured cheeses and piadine but also ice cream,

cappuccino and brioches. Open Mon 7.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Fri

7.30am-midnight; Sat-Sun 8am-midnight. Map G3

www.biancolattemilano.it

Via F. Turati, 30

T: 02 62086177

More info: www.wheremilan.com

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www.wheretraveler.com 63


Entertainment

Clockwise from top:

PICCOLO TEATRO-TEATRO

STREHLER

It offers a “mixed” repertoire,

international and Italian (p.64)

TEATRO DAL VERME

The venue for concerts, plays

and dance performances (p.65)

10 CORSO COMO

A vast concept store dedicated

to shopping and entertainment

(p.31 and p.64)

region of the Valle d’Aosta, a well-known tourist

destination for weekends and holiday breaks. In

addition to all the main games, it also offers a rich

events calendar. Open Mon-Thurs 7pm-10.30pm;

Fri and Sun 7pm-12am; Sat 7pm-1am. www.

casinodelavallee.it. via I. Mus, 1 - Saint-Vincent

(Aosta). T: 0166 5221. OFF MAP

WINCITY - A “not-to-be-missed” opportunity for

those who love gambling and betting: the new

concept Wincity is a 900 sq.m location that offers

some hundred different games including the latest

generation slot machines, video lotteries and an

automatic roulette system but also tasting events

with live music. This entertainment venue houses

a restaurant serving typical Italian cuisine and a

lounge bar. An innovative touch is the presence of

a Personal Player to assist customers and outline

play procedures and methods. Smokers’ area

available. Torre Martini, Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP F5

Concert Venues & Theatres

10 CORSO COMO CAFÉ – Lounge bar (with adjoining

restaurant) located inside a vast complex

dedicated to shopping and entertainment (art,

fashion and design) founded in 1990 by the

publisher and gallerist Carla Sozzani. Open Mon

6pm-1am; Tues-Fri 12pm-1am; Sat 11pm-2am; Sun

11pm-1am. www.10corsocomo.com. Corso Como,

10. T: 02 29013581. M2 Garibaldi FS. MAP F1

ALCATRAZ – Formerly an old car repair shop, this

multi-functional venue, extending over some 3,000

sq.m., hosts international pop and rock concerts

but is also used as a facility for gala dinners, fashion

shows and dance in the discotheque area.

www.alcatrazmilano.com. Via Valtellina, 25.

T: 02 69016352. M3 Maciachini. OFF MAP

ANTEO SPAZIOCINEMA – An historic Milanese

venue (currently a multiplex cinema) and a

favourite haunt of “auteur” film aficionados, it

hosts festivals, outdoor screenings in summer,

retrospectives, seminars and original language

screenings. Other on-site facilities include the

Osteria del Cinema restaurant and wine bar open

throughout the year. www.spaziocinema.info. Via

Milazzo, 9. T: 02 6597732. M2 Moscova. MAP F2

AUDITORIUM DI MILANO FONDAZIONE

CARIPLO – Inaugurated in October, 1999, the

Auditorium is one of Milan’s premier concert halls

(boasting a seating capacity of 1,400) and home

to the Giuseppe Verdi Symphonic Orchestra and

Milan Chorus. It also acts as a venue for visiting

international jazz acts, symphony concerts and

chamber music. www.laverdi.org. Largo G. Mahler.

T: 02 83389401. OFF MAP

BLUE NOTE – A branch of the famous New York,

Tokyo and Nagoya venues, this is the new

temple of Milanese jazz and features world-class

performers and big-names on the International

music scene. True to tradition, it hosts two

shows a night (at 9pm and 11.30pm, with dining

option). Tickets only valid for one show. www.

bluenotemilano.it. Via P. Borsieri, 37. T: 02 69016888.

M3 Zara. OFF MAP

GIUSEPPE VERDI MUSIC CONSERVATORY –

Founded in 1808, this Conservatory is another

of Milan’s most illustrious venues for classical

concerts and also offers a wide range of courses

and cultural activities (masterclasses, seminars,

performances, etc.). Many famous Italian

musicians studied here – although oddly enough,

the young Giuseppe Verdi was rejected. There

are two concert halls: the smaller Sala Puccini

for chamber music and the bigger Sala Verdi for

symphonic and choral music. www.consmilano.it.

Via Conservatorio, 12. T: 02 7621101. M1 San Babila.

MAP H5

MAGAZZINI GENERALI – A former, early 20th

century warehouse, the club is located on two

levels. Its main floor, extending over a 1000 sq.m.

area, features a bar, a dance floor and a stage.

It hosts gigs, DJ sets directly from London rave

parties and concerts dedicated mainly to avantgarde

sounds from the electro-pop world. Open

on Wed (free entrance), Fri and Sat (admission

around €20 ). www.magazzinigenerali.it. Via

Pietrasanta, 14. T: 02 5393948. OFF MAP

PICCOLO TEATRO DI MILANO/TEATRO STREHLER

– Founded in 1947 by director, Giorgio Strehler

and impresario, Paolo Grassi, it was the first

Italian Rep Theatre Company to offer a “mixed”

repertoire (international and Italian). Over the past

60 years it has produced over 280 performances

by playwrights of the calibre of Shakespeare,

Goldoni, Brecht, Cechov, Pirandello and Goethe.

www.piccoloteatro.org. Largo M. Greppi, 1.

T: 848 800304. M2 Lanza. MAP E3

SALUMERIA DELLA MUSICA (LA) – This old industrial

warehouse was listed among the 100 best jazz

clubs in the world by the prestigious American

magazine, Down Beat. Over the years, it has hosted

international star performers like Norah Jones and

Pat Metheny, but also rock, pop and soul concerts

and cabaret acts. www.lasalumeriadellamusica.com.

Via A. Pasinetti, 2. T: 02 56807350. OFF MAP

SCIMMIE – An historic concert venue in the Naviglio

Pavese district. Though formerly only catering

to jazz, it now also offers a variety of concerts

featuring different types of musical genres

performed by emerging Italian talents or famous

International stars. Drinks are available at the bar

and club restaurant. It also has an outdoor space

in summer. www.scimmie.it. Via A. Sforza, 49.

T: 02 89402874. OFF MAP

PALAZZINA LIBERTY – Former headquarters of

Milan’s huge fruit and vegetable market and a

splendid example of Milanese Art Noveau, it was

later restructured and used as a facility for various

recreational-cultural activities. Owned by Milan’s

municipality, it is currently home to the Civica

Orchestra and is a setting for concerts and events.

Largo Marinai d’Italia, 1. T: 02 72004711. OFF MAP

TEATRO ALLA SCALA – For over two centures, a

hallowed temple of Milanese music and opera.

64 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Entertainment

Designed by Giuseppe Piermarini and inaugurated

in 1778, it was recently totally refurbished under

the supervision of the renowned architect, Mario

Botta. Today the theatre is recognized as one

of the leading opera and ballet theatres in the

world and offers seasonal events including choral

and orchestral works. Out-of-season events are

also often organized by private institutions and

foundations. www.teatroallascala.org. Piazza della

Scala (Ticket Office Via Filodrammatici, 2).

T: 02 88791. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F4

TEATRO DAL VERME – Inaugurated in 1872,

it was formerly primarily used for plays and

opera performances. Recently refurbished

and restructured (its auditorium boasts a

seating capacity of 1,436) it now belongs to the

Municipality and the Province of Milan and is a

venue for concerts, plays and dance performances

as well as exhibitions and conferences. www.

dalverme.org. Via San Giovanni sul Muro, 2.

T: 02 87905. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli.

MAP E4

TAM/TEATRO DEGLI ARCIMBOLDI – Inaugurated

in 2002, for three years it acted as Milan’s main

opera venue while the historic Teatro alla Scala

was being restored and restructured. Boasting

a seating capacity of 2,400, it currently hosts a

variety of concerts ranging from classical music

to rock and pop but also festivals, performances

and TV shows. www.teatroarcimboldi.it. Viale

dell’Innovazione, 1. T: 02 641142200. OFF MAP

TEATRO DELLA LUNA – The first Italian theatre

designed exclusively for international musicals and

their imposing stage sets. Located on the outskirts

of Milan (next to the Mediolanum Forum), it has

an 800 sq.m. stage and is designed to hold up to

1,730 spectators. www.teatrodellaluna.com. Via G.

Di Vittorio, 6 - Assago (MI). T: 199 128800. Shuttle bus

from M2 Famagosta. OFF MAP

TEATRO DELL’ARTE/CRT – Built in 1933, it is a part of

the architectural complex of Milan’s Palazzo dell’Arte

(better known as the Triennale) and has been used,

since 1983, by CRT (Theatre Research Centre). The

most important avant-garde theatre in Milan for

experimental theatre and contemporary dance, it

boasts 800 seats.

www.teatrocrt.it. Via E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 881298. M1-

M2 Cadorna FN. MAP D4

TEATRO LITTA – Found inside the aristocratic, 17th

century Arese-Litta palazzo, this is the oldest theatre

in Milan. In addition to the magnificent auditorium

(with a 202 seating capacity) it has a large foyer and

an elegant bar (with wi-fi spot). It is used for plays,

concerts and hosts the international “Connections”

project. www.teatrolitta.it. Corso Magenta, 24. T: 02

8055882. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. MAP E5

Markets

FIERA DI SINIGAGLIA – Established at the beginning

of the 19th century, this is a truly Milanese institution.

The only “flea market” in Milan, it is held once a

week and attracts a varied public ranging from

collectors to bargain hunters. It boasts a vast array of

stalls offering a number of artisan objects, old LPs,

military uniforms, vintage or second-hand clothing,

objets d’art, junk, ethnic items, old and new books,

picture frames, china, glass, silver, jewellery and oldfashioned

toys, coins and much more besides. Open

Sat 8am-6pm. Alzaia Naviglio Grande corner of via

Valenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. MAP C5-D5

ANTIQUE MARKET – A “not-to-be-missed” date for

collectors the world over, it is held on the banks

of the picturesque Naviglio Grande. With over

four hundred stallholders, you can find all kinds of

antiques: furniture, clocks and watches, china, silver,

jewellery, dolls, toys, books, glasses, radios, walking

sticks, bronze objects, glass, comic books, prints,

books and cameras. It also offers modern objet d’art,

ethnic antiques and a number of other oddities

and bric-a-brac. All the shops and restaurants in the

area stay open while the market is on. Last Sunday

of every month, 9am-6pm. Naviglio Grande, from

the Darsena to the bridge in via Valenza. M2 Porta

Genova FS. MAP C5-D5

MERCATINO FILATELICO – Located in the heart of

Milan, just a short distance from the Duomo, stamp

and coin collectors will have a field day at this historic

market. The third largest in Europe, it offers an array

of items including everything related to postal

history (postcards, stamped envelopes and signed

letters), medallions of saints, medals, badges, toy

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www.wheretraveler.com 65


Golf

Italy boasts a number of fabulous golf courses,

several of which can be accessed by car in just

half an hour from the centre of Milan.

- GOLF CLUB MONTICELLO (36 holes) located

in Cassina Rizzardi (CO), host to several Italian

Opens (T: 031 928055; www.gesgolf.it)

- CIRCOLO GOLF BOGOGNO (36 holes) located

in Bogogno (NO), open throughout the year

and set against the magnificent backdrop

of Monte Rosa (T: 0322.863.794; www.

golfbogogno.com)

- CASTELLO DI TOLCINASCO GOLF &

COUNTRY CLUB (27 holes) in Pieve

Emanuele (MI), an exclusive golf club built

around an old 16th century castle (T: 02

90428035; www.golftolcinasco.it).

- GOLF CLUB MILANO (27 holes) set within the

Parco Reale di Monza (MB), Golf Club Milano

was founded in 1928 and won the CONI

“Gold Star” award for sporting achievements

(T: 039 303081; www.golfclubmilano.it).

- GOLF CLUB AMBROSIANO (18 holes) located

in Bubbiano (MI), a “Kosaido European

Tour” associate (T: 02 90840820, www.

golfclubambrosiano.com).

- GOLF CLUB LE ROVEDINE (18 holes) located

in Noverasco di Opera (MI), just 8 kilometres

from Piazza del Duomo (T: 02 57606420,

www.rovedine.com).

- MOLINETTO COUNTRY CLUB (18 holes)

located in Cernusco sul Naviglio (MI), on-site

facilities include a swimming pool, restaurant

and 14 tennis courts (T: 02 92105128; www.

molinettocountryclub.it).

Just a little further out of town:

- GOLF CREMA RESORT (27 holes) in Crema

(CR), situated 40 minutes from the airports of

Linate and Orio al Serio (T: 0373 231357; www.

golfcremaresort.com).

- GOLF CLUB BERGAMO L’ALBENZA (27

holes) located in Almenno San Bartolomeo

(BG), seat of Professional international

tournaments (T: 035 640028; www.

golfbergamo.it.)

- CHERVÒ GOLF SAN VIGILIO (27 holes)

located in Pozzolengo (BS), resort with

residence, hotel, spa and wellness centre (T:

030 91801; www.chervogolfsanvigilio.it).

- GARDAGOLF COUNTRY CLUB (27 holes)

located in Soiano del Lago (BS), situated just

a short distance from Lake Garda (T: 0365

674707; www.gardagolf.it).

- GOLF CLUB LE ROBINIE (18 holes) located in

Solbiate Olona (VA), an oasis of tranquillity

with resort situated just 15 minutes from

Malpensa airport (T: 0331 329260; www.

lerobinie.com).

- GOLF DEI LAGHI (18 holes) located in

Travedona Monate (VA), set amidst the

hills and woods between Lake Maggiore,

Varese and Monate (T: 0332 978101; www.

golfdeilaghi.it).

- GOLF CLUB VARESE (18 holes) located

in Luvinate (VA). Founded in 1934, this

challenging course offers scenic views of

incomparable panoramic beauty (T: 0332

229302; www.golfclubvarese.it).

- LA PINETINA GOLF CLUB (18 holes) located

in Appiano Gentile (CO), set within 4,800

hectares of magnificent pine forests in

the Parco Pineta (T: 031 933202; www.

golfpinetina.it).

soldiers, pocket and other watches, old figurines,

period comic books, prints, etc. Prices comparable

to those of other collectors’ markets. Open on Sun

and weekdays from 8am to 12.30am. Via Armorari,

Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù, Galleria Cordusio. M1-

M3Duomo; M1 Cordusio. MAP F5

VIALE PAPINIANO MARKET – The viale Papiniano

market is the largest in Milan and is held twice a

week. It is famous for fashion, including vintage

clothing, shoes and accessories of all kinds. It

also has an array of great food stalls, fabrics and

haberdashery as well as a number of “hard-tofind”

items for the home. Open Tues 8am-2pm;

Sat 8am-5pm. Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino.

MAP C6-D6

Nightlife

Entertainment

ARMANI/PRIVÉ – Elegant and selective, this is a

favourite Milanese haunt with VIPs, models and

aesthetes of all ages. Its fabulous cosmopolitan

atmosphere is the perfect place for a drink or a spin

on the dance floor to the sounds of seductive DJ

sets. Make sure to call ahead to get a table. Open

Wed-Thurs 11.30pm-2.30am; Fri-Sat 11.30pm-3am.

www.armaninobu.it. Via A. Manzoni, 31.

T: 02 62312655. M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

BEACH (THE) – A Disco & Restaurant situated on

the outskirts of the city. The perfect place to

escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Its

white décor, its wooden dance floor resembling

those found in pleasure-craft and its green lawn

illuminated by soft lights make it a reference point

of the Milanese movida, not only in summer. Times

vary depending on the night of the week. Open

Fri-Sun from 9pm to 4am. www.thebeachmilano.

com. Via A. Corelli, 62.

T: 02 70201011. OFF MAP

CAFÉ ATLANTIQUE – Located in an historic

venue, this cool combo of disco and restaurant

is renowned for its stellar interior. Favoured by

the Milanese business crowd and celeb VIPs, it is

known for the organization of important corporate

events. Times vary depending on the night of the

week. Open Fri-Sat from 11pm to 4am.

www.cafeatlantique.it. Viale Umbria, 42.

T:199 111111. M3 Lodi. OFF MAP

JUST CAVALLI HOLLYWOOD – Dinner-club owned

by Roberto Cavalli, a designer of world-renowned

fame. A Milanese hot spot for beautiful people, this

elegant club, with its ultra-innovative, glamorous

interior, is located inside Parco Sempione, one of

the green lungs of the city. A fabulous location

where you can drink, dine and dance till the

small hours of the morning. A chic haven for

VIPs and fashionistas. Aperitivo, dinner and

after dinner every day from 8pm to 3am.

www.justcavallihollywood.it. Via L. Camoens at

the Torre Branca. T: 02 311817. M1-M2 Cadorna FN.

MAP D3

GATTOPARDO CAFÉ (IL) – A unique venue, located

in a 19th century church that was deconsecrated

in the ‘70’s. Sometimes used as a setting for films,

its name is a tribute to the masterpiece by Visconti

and still exudes a feeling of opulent elegance.

Open Thurs-Sat 6pm-5am and Tues, Wed, Sun

from 6pm to 1am. www.ilgattopardocafe.it.

Via P. della Francesca, 47. T: 02 34537699. MAP B1

G LOUNGE – An evocative location that still bears

witness to its past as the first billiards hall in Milan.

Often used as a setting for commercials, this is the

perfect place for fabulous parties. Open Mon-Sat

7.30am-3am. www.glounge.it. Via Larga, 8.

T: 02 8053042. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

OLD FASHION CAFÉ – An historic Milanese location

lying adjacent to Parco Sempione and Milan’s

Triennale. Aperitivi and dinner are served outside

in summer or inside in winter. Things really

start buzzing after midnight when the dance

floor becomes crowded with entrepreneurs,

supermodels and VIPs. Dinner from 8.30pm to

11.30pm. Disco till 3am. Closed on Tues and Thurs.

www.oldfashion.it. Viale Alemagna, 6.

T: 02 8056231. M1-M2 Cadorna. MAP D4

Sport

ARENA CIVICA “GIANNI BRERA” – An historic

sports facility inaugurated in 1807 named after a

famous sports journalist. It has a playing field for

football/rugby and American football games and a

synthetic track for athletics (from 400 metres with

8 lanes). Open Mon-Fri 9am-noon; 3pm-8pm.

www.comune.milano.it. Viale G. Byron, 2.

T: 02 341924. M2 Lanza. MAP E3

AUTODROMO NAZIONALE DI MONZA – A legendary

racetrack, also known as the “Cathedral of Speed”,

for both car and motorcycle racing. Located inside

the Parco di Monza, the racetrack measures 5,793

metres and has been home to the F1 Italian Gran

Prix since 1922. A traditional destination for tourists

(it can be visited by car, motorbike or bicycle), on

selected dates it allows visitors to drive their own

cars on the historic track for a reasonable price.

Safety driving courses also held by professional

instructors. Open 7.30am-7.30pm. www.monzanet.

it. Via Vedano, 5 - Monza (MB). T: 039 24821. Ferrovie

dello Stato and Ferrovie Nord Milano. OFF MAP

CENTRO SPORTIVO LIDO E PALALIDO – A multifunctional

sports centres extending over 20,000

square metres with five-a-side football pitches,

tennis courts, basket ball courts, rollerblading, minigolf

and an Olympic-sized outdoor swimming

pool. The complex encompasses the Palalido

(entrance in Piazzale Stuparich, 1), a sports stadium,

boasting a 3,800 seating capacity, which hosts

basket ball and volley ball matches. Open Mon-Fri

9am-11pm. www.comune.milano.it. Piazzale Lotto,

15. T: 02 392791. M1 Lotto. OFF MAP

CENTRO SPORTIVO KENNEDY – A city temple of

baseball, in addition to housing the legendary

baseball “diamond”, this multi-functional

complex has 8 tennis, softball, basketball and

volleyball courts, grass hockey and mini-golf.

Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 9am-8pm.

www.centrosportivokennedy.it. Via A. Olivieri, 15.

T: 02 48926212. M1 Bisceglie. OFF MAP

IDROPARK IDROSCALO – A vast green-blue lung

situated on the outskirts of the city, it comprises a

huge park, half of which is occupied by an artificial

lake. The Idroscalo hosts international canoeing,

kayak, water skiing, triathlon and swimming

competitions and offers a number of outdoor

activities during the summer months, including

concerts such as the famous “Gods of Metal” and

“Evolution” Festival. Open Mon-Sun 7am-5pm.

66 WHERE CITY NAME I MONTH YEAR


Entertainment

www.idroscalo.info. Via Circonvallazione, Segrate

(MI). T: 02 70200902. OFF MAP

IPPODROMO DI MILANO – For over one century,

this national monument has represented one of

the most prestigious horse racing tracks in the

world. Located just a short distance from the

Meazza Stadium, it holds horse racing meets (from

March to November, Wed, Sat and Fri), harnessracing

(throughout the year, except in August, on

Tues, Thurs and Fri) and night racing (June and

July). www.ippodromimilano.it. Piazzale dello

Sport. T: 02 482161. M1 Lotto. OFF MAP

MEDIOLANUM FORUM (ASSAGO) – Extending

over a covered area of 40,000 sq.m., on 4 floors,

it includes a multi-functional centre for 25 sports

disciplines: bowling and squash, a permanent ice

rink, 2 swimming pools and a central arena for

basketball, volleyball, cycling, tennis and riding, but

also concerts, performances and television events.

www.forumnet.it. Via G. Di Vittorio, 6 - Assago (MI).

T: 199128800. Shuttle bus from M2 Famagosta.

OFF MAP

PALASHARP – Since 1986, this multi-functional

tensile structure, boasting a seating capacity

of 9,000, has hosted several of the city’s most

important events ranging from Frank Sinatra’s

concert to a symposium with the Dalai Lama.

Currently the seat of sports events, musicals, circus

and ice performances, congresses, competitions

and conventions. www.palasharp.it. Via A. Sant’Elia,

33. T: 02 33400551. M1 Lampugnano.

OFF MAP

STADIO DEL GHIACCIO AGORÀ – This is the largest

complex in Milan for ice sports ranging from

ice hockey to skating. Home to national and

international events, it organizes skating courses,

athletic preparation and classic/modern ballet and

dance courses. Open to the public Fri 10.30am-

0.30pm; Sat 3pm-6pm/9.30pm-0.30pm; Sun

10am-noon/3pm-6pm (closed in July and August).

www.stadioghiaccio.it. Via dei Ciclamini, 23. T: 02

48300946. M1 Primaticcio, M1 Inganni.

OFF MAP

VELODROMO MASPES VIGORELLI – Inaugurated

in 1935, this is one of the most famous velodromes

in the world. Following important restructuring

works, it was transformed into a multi-functional

complex boasting a indoor seating capacity of

7,500. It hosts cycling competitions, American

football games and events such as concerts,

fashion shows and various performances. www.

vigorelli.org. Via Arona, 19. T: 02 33104970. MAP B2

Wellness

ACCADEMIA DEL BELL’ESSERE PAOLO GUATELLI

– Over 1000 sq.m. of wellbeing, a holistic centre

for the rejuvenation of body and mind. Bell’Essere

is a city spa and image studio created by the

international make-up designer Paolo Guatelli,

offering beauty treatments and make-up sessions.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm. Sun by appointment

only. www.accademiadelbellessere.it.

Via Mecenate, 76/24. T: 02 5098701. OFF MAP

AQUAE CALIDAE – Right in the heart of town, a

day spa that conjures up the Roman baths in a

modern-day key. The perfect place to take a break,

it offers a variety of treatments for the mind, body

and soul, including marine scrubs and massages

using ancient Roman techniques such as the

“X-bioage cationic resin mask”. Open Sat-Sun 11am-

8pm. www.aquaecalidae.it. Via Santa Sofia, 14.

T: 02 58430269. M3 Crocetta. MAP F6

ATOMIC SPA SUISSE – Futuristic cosmetic

treatments, using chromatic light and ultrasound,

and exclusive products whose ingredients include

champagne, rose petals and pure gold. A part of

the fabulous Boscolo Exedra Hotel in Milan, it has

been described as “a work capable of touching the

emotions”. It has treatment cabins, sauna, Turkish

bath, large swimming pool with hydro massage

jets and a relaxation area. Open daily from 10am to

8pm. www.spasuisse.com. Corso G. Matteotti, 4/6.

T: 02 22229702. M1 San Babila. MAP G4

BEUNIQUE – This first BeUnique centre, opened in

June, 2010, is a ultra-new concept and the perfect

spot for those in search of technology at the

service of wellbeing. BeUnique prides itself on the

ongoing search for cutting-edge methodologies

in face and body treatments. By appointment only.

Open: Mon-Sat 9am-8pm. www.beuniquemilano.

it. Via M. Gonzaga, 5. T: 02 39663676. M3 Missori.

MAP F5

BULGARI RESORT – Set within a large park,

in the heart of Brera, between La Scala and

via Montenapoleone, it is located within the

eponymous hotel. In keeping with contemporary

wellness rituals, it offers a sumptuous, elegant

setting featuring a Turkish bath, swimming pool

and relaxation area. A full range of treatments

always on offer. You can prolong this heady

experience by finishing the day with an aperitivo in

the garden. www.bulgarihotels.com.

Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7/b. T: 02 8058051.

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP GF

CULTI – Luxury is moulded to suit individual needs

in this highly sophisticated spa based on a

winning idea by Alessandro Agrati. It offers a vast

range of revolutionary therapies ranging from

a mani-pedi suite to vasodilatory treatments on

water-heated stone beds. An absolute “must”

is the Relax lounge where, amidst plants and

tealights, customers can sip herbal infusions. It

also offers numerous treatments for men and

sells the famous body and home perfumes

carrying the Culti trademark. Open Tues-Fri 9am-

9pm; Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. www.cultidayspa.it. Via

A. Mauri, 5. T: 02 48517588. M1 Pagano. MAP B5

DOWNTOWN PALESTRE – This club, patronized by

celebrities and models, boasts a contemporary,

dynamic atmosphere. A fully equipped gym,

water space and fabulous comfort area: Turkish

bath, Scottish shower, aromarium and spa. All

types of treatments are available. Day passes

can also be booked on the website. www.

downtownpalestre.it. Open Mon-Fri 7ammidnight;

Sat-Sun 10am-2am. Two locations:

Piazza Cavour, 2. T: 02 76317233. MAP G3. M3

Turati, M3 Montenapoleone; Via Gonzaga, 2. T: 02

86311840. M1-M3 Duomo; M3 Missori. MAP F5

SPOTLIGHT

“How About a Quick Putt?”

Milan’s outlying areas offer a wide array of sunny,

scenic golf courses that are definitely worth a

visit. However, if you are pressed for time, with a

convention, a meeting and a business dinner, we

have the perfect solution for you. Milan offers the

first, centrally situated, indoor golf course. It is called

ITSGOLF and is located just a short distance from

the vibrant and fashionable Arco della Pace district,

a favourite Milanese aperitivo spot. Open daily from

10am to 11pm, it has six rooms with simulators

to enable you to indulge in your passion without

wasting too much time. It includes a “ITSGOLF Café”

for breakfast, snacks and dinner. Via Domodossola,

9. T: 02 36630500. Map B2

www.wheretraveler.com 67


Entertainment

GETFIT CITY CLUB – An oasis of tranquillity just a

stone’s throw from the Duomo (but it also has

other locations), offering exclusive services and a

sophisticated ambiance. A day pass will give you

access to the crystal-clear swimming pool, the

gym equipped with all the latest cutting-edge

technology, a thermarium with sauna, Turkish

bath, Thalasso bath, hydro massage and tropical

shower, wellness centre. Mon-Fri 7am-10.30pm;

Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.getfit.it. Via Falcone, 5.

T: 02 94435063. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

HEALTHY CENTER DAY SPA & STUDIO – A

small retreat in the centre of town, for those in

search of a made-to-measure spa experience.

Access to the spa includes an hour and a half of

Thalasso therapy, Kneipp spa treatment, sauna,

Turkish bath and thermal showers. Massages

by appointment only. Experts, including an

osteopath, are available to draw up personal

exercise charts. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-

6pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.hcdayspa.it. Piazza

Pio XI, 1. T: 02 8692145. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP E5

MORESKO HAMMAM CAFÉ – A corner of Istanbul

transplanted in Milan. It offers an aperitivo with

massage included. Customers not only can

taste typical foods and beverages but also learn

how to belly dance. Separate hammam for men

and women. Reservations necessary. www.

moresko.it. Via Rubens, 19. T: 02 4046936. M1

Gambara. OFF MAP

SKORPION – An exclusive gym located in San

Babila, featuring a fitness centre, fully equipped

SPOTLIGHT

gym, two underground swimming pools (one

for swimming the other for acquagym) and

a pool with hydro massage jets. Day passes

available for use of all facilities from the early

morning onwards. Various activities also

available for children. Kneipp spa treatments in

the locker rooms. www.skorpioncenter.it. Mon-

Fri 7.30am-9.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Corso

Vittorio Emanuele II, 24. M1 San Babila. MAP G5

SPA PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA – Ultra-luxurious spa

and gym with a magnificent panoramic view

over the whole of Milan. Located on the top

floor of this prestigious hotel, it is necessary to

book a treatment or a package with a choice

between massages, face and body treatments,

in one of the beautifully furnished treatment

and massage rooms. The pool area, extending

over 150 sq.m., with its heated swimming

pool, sauna, hydro massage and Turkish

bath, will offer you unforgettable moments

of relaxation, together with the terrace and

outdoor solarium. Open Mon-Sun 7am-10pm.

www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com. Piazza della

Repubblica, 17. T: 02 62301. M3 Repubblica.

MAP G2

The Temple

of Football

Named after the famous

Milanese footballer Giuseppe

Meazza, the Giuseppe

Meazza Stadium (San Siro)

is the largest stadium in Italy

and the third in Europe. All

seats are covered in this

three-tiered structure which has a capacity of 80,074 and is

the home stadium of two of the three most successful Italian

Football League clubs: A.C. Milan and F.C. Internazionale (Inter).

It also has a gift shop and a museum displaying all kinds of

historic items from both Milan’s and Inter’s past: old jerseys,

photos, boots, tickets and a fabulous trophy case. However,

even better than the museum is the guided stadium tour

which gives you a chance to sit in VIP seats and visit each

of the home teams’ locker rooms. In summer it also hosts

important concerts. www.sansiro.net. Via dei Piccolomini, 5.

T: 02 48713713. M1 Lotto.

TERMEMILANO – Opened in 2006, against the

backdrop of the 16th century walls erected by

Ferrante Gonzaga, this prestigious Spa offers

visitors a marvellous oasis of relaxation in the

heart of the city. Located in a large, Liberty-style

building, in the elegant Porta Romana district,

it combines history and architecture with the

most cutting-edge technologies to offer a multisensory

experience boasting over 30 wellness

treatments. Children under 14 are not admitted.

Open: Sun-Thurs 10am-10pm. Fri-Sat 10am-11pm.

www.termemilano.com. Piazzale Medaglie d’Oro,

2 corner of via Filippetti. T: 02 55199367. M3 Porta

Romana. MAP H7

Wine Bars

BARRIQUE WINE BAR (LE) – Set in the elegant

Brera district, it offers a truly interesting wine list.

The cellar stocks a vast selection of Italian wines

but also good international varieties. On offer an

array of cold dishes with platters of mixed cold

cuts and Italian cheeses. Closed on Sat at lunch

and on Sun. Via Anfiteatro, 12. T: 02 80509260.

M2 Lanza. MAP E3

CADENHEAD’S WHISKY BAR – A Whisky bar where

you can taste or purchase as many as 3,000

different labels. Also up for tasting are different

types of rum, gin, port, sherry and champagne.

An array of spirits that have been collected

over a period of fifty years with a prevalence of

Scottish products. Open Mon 3.30pm-midnight;

Tues-Sat 10am-0pm. www.cadenhead.it.

Via Poliziano, 3. T: 02 33605592. MAP C1

ENOTECA CANTINE ISOLA – An unusual venue

where wine and poetry are celebrated in

tandem. One of the first places to offer wine

tastings and also one of the few that imports

German (it offers a selection of lables from 77

exceptional vintners) and Cypriot wines. On

offer everyday are great aperitivi featuring

some of the best wines in the world. Every first

week of the month clients can savour a glass of

“superlative wine” while Tuesdays are given over

to poetry readings. Closed on Mon. Via P. Sarpi,

30. T: 02 3315249. MAP D2

ENOTECA N’OMBRA DE VIN – Nestling in one of

Milan’s most romantic areas, right next to the

magnificent San Marco Church in Brera, this

wine shop, inaugurated in 1973, offers Italian

and international wines and also boasts a wide

selection of oils, spirits and liqueurs. The shop,

which is also a wine bar, is open throughout the

day from 9 in the morning to 1am. Closed on

Sun. www.nombradevin.it. Via San Marco, 2. T: 02

6599650. M2 Lanza. MAP F3

NOTTINGHAM FOREST – It is instantly apparent

why this venue, inaugurated in 2008, was voted

“Best Bar in the World” by Class Magazine,

London: its cocktails, a mixture of oriental,

Caribbean and African ingredients, are both

exotic and original. Try drinks featuring dried

ants from the Amazonia area or gold or pearl

dust presented in shells. Absolutely ingenious.

www.nottingham-forest.com. Viale Piave, 1.

T: 02 798311. M1 Palestro. MAP H4

VINICOLA ROTONDI – In the heart of the Isola

district, this wine bar is one of Milan’s most

historic. Young hopefuls who have subsequently

become famous have raised their glasses to

success here. It offers an old-world atmosphere

and shelves stocked with fine wines. Excellent

value for money and an array of superb Italian

and international labels. Closed on Sun.

www.vinicolarotondi.com. Piazzale Lagosta, 2.

T: 02 6684293. M3 Zara. OFF MAP

68 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


PROEDICOMUNICAZIONE

AIROLO

A taste of Switzerland near Milan

Nestling at the foot of San Gottardo, 30 kilometres of ski

slopes for both amateurs and professionals: champions

who enjoy a challenge and families in search of fun.

From 4 December (weekends only) and from 18

December, seven days a week, come and discover the

rich array of facilities offered by the largest ski resort

in Switzerland’s Canton Ticino: two ski lifts, three chair

lifts, ski slopes, snow racquet trails and a snowpark,

ultra-modern infrastructure and breathtaking scenery.

Located just an hour and a half from the centre of Milan

at an altitude of between 1175 and 2256 metres.

The ski resort of Airolo-Pesciüm is situated just 200 metres

from the motorway exit of Airolo.

From Milan: A9 autostrada Chiasso – A2 San Gottardo

and exit at Airolo.

www.airolo.ch/funivie ~ tel: +41 91 873 80 40


Museums & Attractions

A Treasure

Trove

of Beauty

Located in the heart of

Milan, Museo Bagatti

Valsecchi is one of the

best preserved house

museums in Europe

(see p.72). Its evocative

rooms contain

precious Renaissance

collections: paintings,

sculptures, weapons

and armour, ceramics,

jewellery and tapestries.

Currently on exhibit

"Glass Artists and

Designers, 1960-2010.

The Bellini-Pezzoli

Collection" (see p.15).

www.museobagattivalsecchi.org. Via Santo Spirito 10/Via Gesù, 5. T: 02 76006132/76014857

For more detailed listings, please see

www.wheretraveler.com

Monuments & Places of Interest

DUOMO – Among one of the most important

(and majestic) Gothic buildings in the world, the

church, constructed on and off over a period of

450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of Milan.

Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedral

is divided by soaring pillars into five naves, the

largest of which measures 45 metres in height.

It has 135 spires and its inside columns measure

3 and a half metres in diameter. To experience

the Duomo at its most majestic you must

ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps)

where you will be surrounded by an outburst

of pinnacles, turrets and marble statuary and,

naturally, the city’s famed golden Madonnina.

The cathedral is open daily 8.30am-6.45pm.

Admission free. Guided visit in English every

Saturday 10am (including Cathedral, Baptistery

and Cathedral rooftops by lift) €20. Info point via

Arcivescovado, 1 (open 9am-noon/1pm-6pm).

www.duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo.

T: 02 72023375. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

BRERA – Home, since 1776, to an important

Academy of Fine Arts, this is an artsy

neighbourhood which really comes to life at

night. In addition to several churches, the district

also hosts a number of interesting galleries and

antique shops. One of the areas in the city is

particularly known for its nightlife. Pubs, window

displays, stalls and quaint fortune tellers meld

with important places of culture. For museums in

Brera, see “Entertainment” section. Via Brera and

surrounding areas. M2 Lanza. MAP E3-F3

CASTELLO SFORZESCO – The ancient seat of the

ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco

Sforza and is now simply know by the Milanese

as “Il Castello”. Demolished and reconstructed

several times from 1300 onwards, it has served

as the backdrop for numerous historic events.

Today, it houses a number of interesting

museums and libraries. Its park is a favourite

with old and young alike. Castle: open daily

7am-6pm. Free admission. Castle Museums:

Tues through Sunday 9am-5.30pm. Full ticket €3.

www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello, 1.

T: 02 88463700. M1-M2 Cadorna FN; M1 Cairoli;

M2 Lanza. MAP E4

CENACOLO – One of the most famous attractions

in the world, “L’Ultima Cena” or “Cenacolo” by

Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural

painting representing the scene of the last

supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be

found in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

Tues to Sun 8.15am-7pm. English guided tour

9.30am and 3.30pm. Reservation compulsory.

WHERE MAGAZINE is circulated throughout the world and covers all major cities. To learn more visit www.wheretraveler.com

Full ticket €6.50. www.cenacolovinciano.net.

Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2. T: 02 92800360.

M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Conciliazione. MAP D4

CIMITERO MONUMENTALE (MONUMENTAL

CEMETERY) – A real outdoor museum catering,

on the one hand, to the whims of the elite of

Milan’s society and, on the other, to works of art

by famous sculptors of various eras. Among the

notables buried here are Alessandro Manzoni and

Arturo Toscanini. Open Tues-Sun from 8am-6pm.

Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale. T: 02 88465600.

M2 Garibaldi FS. MAP D1-E1

GALLERIA – Sometimes known as “the living-room

of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade,

housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops,

is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful

glass cupola and measures 196 metres in length.

Tradition has it that placing your right heel on

the bull, depicted in the mosaic on the floor, and

then spinning around inside it, will bring good

luck. Piazza Duomo-Piazza della Scala. M1-M3

Duomo. MAP F5

GIUSEPPE MEAZZA STADIUM (also known as San

Siro) – The famous Milan football stadium, home

to Inter and AC Milan, was inaugurated in 1926. It

was completely renovated in 1990. For stadium

events, see section on “Entertainment”. www.

sansiro.net. Via dei Piccolomini, 5. T: 02 4042432.

M1 Lotto. OFF MAP

PHOTO © MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI

70 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Museums & Attractions

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list

of establishments recommended by the

editors of Where Magazine and includes regular

advertisers.

MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in BOLD at the end of

each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates

on the street maps on pages 78-79.

INFORMATION

Places like the Duomo or the Last Supper are

symbols of Milan, hence our decision to list them

under a separate category.

Museums displaying the red symbol are

those entitling AmaMi Card holders

either to free entrance or a discount on

exhibitions. More information about

AmaMi Card (where to buy it, how to use

it and advantages) can be found on page 77 under

“Essentials”.

NAVIGLI – The “Navigli” are artificial canals built

800 years ago to ferry people and merchandise

to Milan, to irrigate the fields and to defend the

city. The network of canals was perfected in 1457

by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area, bursting

with trendy dining and nightlife spots, is one of

the main hubs of the Milanese movida. M2 Porta

Genova FS. MAP D7-E7

“PIRELLONE” – Designed by the famous architect,

Gio Ponti, it was inaugurated in 1960. Standing

127.10 metres tall, until a few years ago, the Pirelli

“skyscraper” was the highest building in Milan.

Although today, even higher buildings are going

up, the “Pirellone” (i.e. “big Pirelli”) still remains

one of the symbols of the city. Open to visits

on Saturday. Booking required. www.regione.

lombardia.it. Piazza Duca d’Aosta. T: 02 45487400.

M2-M3 Centrale FS. MAP F1.

SANT’AMBROGIO – One of the most ancient

churches in Milan, it was built by St Ambrose

(patron of the city) in 379-386 A.D., in an area

where numerous martyrs had been buried. The

church is a wonderful example of Romanesque

style. Open daily 9.30am-12.30am/2.30pm-

6pm (Sun 3pm-pm). Admission free. www.

santambrogio-basilica.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio,

15. T: 02 86450895 (10am-noon/4pm-6 pm).

M2 Sant’Ambrogio. MAP D5

Museums

ACQUARIO DI MILANO –

Housed in a splendid Liberty-style building, it is

one of the largest and oldest of its kind in Italy.

Established in 1906 and restructured in 2006, it

hosts 36 gigantic pools filled with more than 100

species of fish, living in recreated environments

ranging from the Amazon to the Mediterranean.

The main focus of the pools is more towards

native Italian fish, both fresh and saltwater, and

plenty of exotic sea life from other continents.

The aquarium hosts events whole suitable for the

family and the library is one of the most important

resources for marine biology and oceanic studies

in Italy. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm.

www.acquariocivicomilano.eu. Viale G. Gadio, 2.

T: 02 88465750. M2 Lanza. MAP E4

AMBROSIANA PICTURE GALLERY – The

“Ambrosiana” contains several exquisite works

of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and

includes “The musician”, attributed to Leonardo,

Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens”

fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of fruit”. The

Ambrosiana will be exhibiting Leonardo’s entire

“Codice Atlantico” (Atlantic Codex) until 2015, 44

or 45 pages at a time for three months at a stretch

– the longest the International archival norms will

allow such documents to be exposed to light.

Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10

for the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for group

tickets. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2.

T: 02 806921. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

BOSCHI DI STEFANO HOUSE MUSEUM – Once

inhabited by the married couple Antonio Boschi

and Marieda Di Stefano, the Boschi Di Stefano

House Museum has been open to the public

since February 2003. The collection–paintings,

SPOTLIGHT

sculptures and drawings – is an extraordinary

testimony to the history of Twentieth Century

Italian art. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Free

admission. www.fondazioneboschidistefano.it.

Via G. Jan, 15. T: 02 74281000. M1 Lima. OFF MAP

CIVIC ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM –

Found in the cloister of an old monastery – the

Monastero Maggiore di San Maurizio – dating

back to the 8th century A.D., it houses Greek,

Etruscan, Roman and medieval works of art

(the Dark Ages section is temporarily closed).

Conversely, prehistoric and Egyptian art are

housed in the Castello Sforzesco. Open Tues-

Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Full price ticket €2.

www.comune.milano.it. Corso Magenta, 15. T: 02

86450011. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli. MAP E5

CONTEMPORARY HISTORY MUSEUM – Heir to the

former “War Museum”, it exhibits material related

to the two World Wars: paintings and sculptures

but also memorabilia, banners, weapons, official

documents and private letters. Open Tues-

Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Free admission.

www.museodimilano.mi.it. Via Sant’Andrea, 6.

T: 02 88465933/76006964. M1 San Babila, M3

Montenapoleone. MAP G4

FONDAZIONE ARNALDO POMODORO – The

Foundation, which was established in 1995 and

in 1997 officially recognized by the Ministry

of Culture obtained definitive recognition as

a museum from the Region of Lombardy in

2007. According to its statute, the purpose

of the Foundation is to guarantee correct

information concerning all the works of the

Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, and to

promote detailed information regarding the

founder’s oeuvre, for both the general public

and as an educational tool for art schools. Open

Wed-Sun 11am-7pm; Thu 11am-10pm. Admission

SCALA (LA) – The world’s premier opera house,

built at the behest of Empress Maria Teresa

of Austria and designed by Piermarini, it

was inaugurated in 1778 with an opera by

Antonio Salieri. For more information, also see

“Entertainment”. www.teatroallascala.org. Piazza

della Scala. T: 02 72003744. Open daily 9am-6pm.

Closed on November 1. M1-M3 Duomo; M3

Montenapoleone. MAP F4

STAZIONE CENTRALE – The Central Railway

Station, the largest rail hub in Italy, is also an

impressive work of architecture. Inaugurated in

1931, it is characterized by an imposing white

stone facade. Platform 21 has a commemorative

plaque testifying to the deportation of the Jews

between 1943-44. Piazza Duca d’Aosta. M2-M3

Centrale FS. MAP H1

The Last Supper

One of the most famous attractions in the world, “L’Ultima

Cena” or “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large

mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of

Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church of

Santa Maria delle Grazie. Booking required: ask your concierge.

www.cenacolovinciano.net.

www.wheretraveler.com 71


Museums & Attractions

House Museums in Milan

A cumulative Card is

available for the four

historic house museums,

all situated in the centre of

Milan (adults €15, reduced

€10). The Museo Bagatti

Valsecchi, the Boschi Di

Stefano House Museum,

the Villa Necchi Campiglio

and the Museo Poldi

Pezzoli (see also pages

71, 72, 74) are fascinating

places that all have one

thing in common, namely

the generosity of their

founders, who opened

their homes and art

collections to the public.

Visitors will have a chance

free the second Sunday of the month. www.

fondazionearnaldopomodoro.it. Via Solari, 35.

T: 02 89075394. M2 Sant’Agostino. MAP C6

FONDAZIONE FORMA – Instituted by the historic

Italian photographic agency “Contrasto”, in just

5 years this multi-functional facility has become

a reference point for important photographic

exhibitions. Open daily from 11am-9pm and till

11pm on Thurs and Fri. www.formafoto.it. Piazza T. L.

Caro. T: 02 89075420. M2 Porta Genova F2. OFF MAP

FONDAZIONE PRADA – This is a space dedicated

to innovative projects by contemporary artists,

established in 1993 by arts patron Miuccia

Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli, heads

of one of the most famous fashion brands in

the world. Home to installations and temporary

exhibitions, Prada’s mission is to make it a temple

of “accessible culture” for the city. Opening times

and information vary according to the exhibitions

on show. www.fondazioneprada.org. Via A.

Fogazzaro, 36. OFF MAP

GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA –

Boasting 2,700 paintings and 700 sculptures,

this Galleria inaugurated in 1921 is above all a

“nineteenth century museum” hosting mainly

Italian and French works of art. Set against the

beautifully elegant backdrop of the Villa Reale,

with its magnificent English garden. Open daily

9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Closed on Mondays. Free

admission. www.comune.milano.it. Via Palestro,

16. T: 02 76340809 (10am-noon/3pm-4pm).

M1 Palestro, M3 Turati. MAP G3

to learn more about the

personal stories and tastes

of their owners – a reflection

of the evolution and

transformation of Milanese

society.

www.casemuseomilano.it

Villa Necchi Campiglio

Via Mozart, 14 – T: 02 76340121

Open Wed to Sun from 10am to 6pm

On Tues open only to groups with reservations

Full price tickets €8.00

www.fondoambiente.it

GIANNI COMENCINI MUSEUM OF CINEMA –

Set against the evocative backdrop of the

historic Palazzo Dugnani, this inspiring journey

through the magic of cinema allows you to

discover the secrets of motion pictures with all

its multi-faceted cultural, historical and social

aspects. Contains memorabilia and important

documentation regarding the evolution of

cinema in Milan and the rest of the world

including film excerpts and equipment used by

the Lumière brothers and George Méliès. Open

Fri, Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price €3. www.

cinetecamilano.it. Via D. Manin, 2b. T: 02 6554977.

M2 Moscova, M3 Turati. MAP G3

HISTORIC CIVIC ARCHIVES AND TRIVULZIANA

LIBRARY – Hosted inside the Castello Sforzesco.

The library can be accessed to examine

parchments, documents, records and prints.

The Historic Archive preserves all the acts of the

Municipality of Milan and of the Duchy dating

back as far as 1385. Open Mon-Fri 9am-noon/

1.30pm-4.30pm. www.comune.milano.it. Piazza

Castello, 1. T: 02 88463694. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4

LEONARDO DA VINCI NATIONAL MUSEUM

OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY – Found in a

16th century monastery, this is one of the most

important museums of science and technology

in the world. Its collections, featuring cars, aircraft,

ships, scooters, trains, reconstructions of ancient

workshops for metalworking, clock-making right

through to electronics, textiles and astronomy,

explore the relationship between men and

machines starting from the ingenious inventions

of the world famous Leonardo da Vinci who lived

in Milan between 1482 and 1500. Open Wed,

Thurs, Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays

10am-6.30pm. Full ticket price €8 + Guided tour

inside the Enrico Toti submarine €10.

www.museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21.

T: 02 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. MAP C5

MANZONI’S HOUSE – Former home of the author,

Alessandro Manzoni, second in Italian literature

only to Dante, he lived here for about sixty years

until his tragic death in 1873. Beautifully restored

in the ‘70’s, its wonderful interior is still preserved

with all its original furnishings. The house also

boasts a large library with over 30,000 books,

including the complete works of Manzoni

himself. Open Tues-Sun 9am-noon/2pm-4pm.

Free admission. www.museodimilano.mi.it.

Via G. Morone, 1. T: 02 86460403. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP F4

MILAN MUSEUM – Dedicated to the urban and

social development of Milan between the 17th

and 18th centuries, at the beginning of March

2010, the collection was enriched with collections

of historic garments originating from the Castello

Sforzesco’s Applied Arts Collection. Open Tues-

Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Free admission.

www.museodimilano.mi.it. Via Sant’Andrea, 6.

T: 02 88465933/76006964. M1 San Babila;

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI – Located in the heart

of Milan, this museum/house is one of the best

preserved in Europe. Its evocative rooms house

precious Renaissance collections: paintings,

sculptures, weapons and armour, ceramics,

jewellery and tapestries. Open Tues-Sun (except

holidays) 1pm-5.45pm. Full price ticket €8 (€4 on

Wednesdays). www.museobagattivalsecchi.org.

Via Santo Spirito 10/Via Gesù, 5.

T: 02 76006132/76014857. M1 San Babila,

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4

MUSEO DEI POPOLI E DELLE CULTURE – The

Peoples and Cultures Museum, founded in 1910,

is devoted to Oriental art and ethnographic

objects. On display, numerous objects linked to

the world of Asian religion, collected by Catholic

missionaries over the centuries. Open Mon-Fri

9am-12.30am/2pm-6pm. Free admission. Via M.

Bianchi, 94. T: 02 48009191. M1 Lotto. OFF MAP

MUSEO DEL CASTELLO SFORZESCO –

Antique art, paintings, period furniture, sculptures

and musical instruments are housed in Castello

Sforzesco’s precious treasure trove. The building

alone is well worth a visit. Rooms 9, 10, 15, 23, 24

not accessible to the disabled. Tues-Sun 9am-

5.30pm (admission until 5pm), closed on Mondays

(holidays included). Full price ticket €3. Free

admittance: every day except Fri after 4.30pm; Fri

2pm-5.30pm; always free for children under 18.

www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello, 3.

T: 02 88463703. M1 Cairoli. MAP E4

MUSEO DIOCESANO – This museum of religious

arts, whose new headquarters were inaugurated

in 2001, hosts 600 works dating back to the 4th

century A.D. By maximizing their historic and

religious meanings, it preserves and promotes

the valuable art treasures belonging to the

“Diocese”, with smaller pieces collected from

Church museums and treasuries across Lombardy.

72 WHERE MILAN I DECEMBER 2010


Museums & Attractions

Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Full ticket price

€8 (€4 on Tuesdays). www.museodiocesano.it.

Corso di Porta Ticinese, 95. T: 02 89420019.

MAP E7

MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI – Formerly the aristocratic

home of its founder, Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli

(1822-1879), it houses a remarkable collection

of Italian Renaissance masters: from Botticelli to

Mantegna, from Piero della Francesca to Tiepolo.

It also displays weapons, ceramics, glass, textiles,

clocks, watches and jewellery. Open Mon-Sun

10am-6pm (closed on Tuesdays). Full ticket price

€8. www.museopoldipezzoli.it. Via A. Manzoni,

12. T: 02 794889/796334. M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP F4

MUSEO TEATRALE ALLA SCALA – Founded in 1913,

it recently underwent an important makeover

and is dedicated to the history of the famous

Milan Opera House with a vast collection of

musical instruments and documents dedicated

to famous musicians, including Verdi and

Toscanini. Visitors can look into the theatre,

provided there are no rehearsals, or admire the

“machine” that gives stage directions. Open

Mon-Sun (except holidays) 9am-12.30am/

1.30pm-5.30pm. Full price ticket €5. www.

museodimilano.mi.it. Largo A. Ghiringhelli, 1

corner of Piazza della Scala. T: 02 88792473/7423.

M1-M3 Duomo; M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F4

MUSEUM OF CRIMINOLOGY AND ANTIQUE

WEAPONS – Housed in 12th century towers,

in the Sant’Ambrogio area, at the old entrance

to the city, this small museum is the perfect

place for those who are fascinated by torture. It

hosts a fine collection of weapons, armour and

horrifying instruments of torture from Medieval

times right up to the early nineteenth century.

Open Mon-Sun 10am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Full

SPOTLIGHT

ticket price €6.20. Via G. Carducci, 41.

T: 02 8053505. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. MAP D5

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM –

Home to valuable mineral, botanical and

zoological collections. Highlights include a

large fossil collection, reconstructions of extinct

animals and dioramas with stuffed animals

shown in their natural habitats originating both

from Europe and other exotic places. It contains

the only dinosaur skeleton existing in Italy. Open

Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. Full price ticket €3 (free

admission on Friday afternoon). www.comune.

milano.it. Corso Venezia, 55. T: 02 88463280.

M1 Palestro. MAP H3

PAC–CONTEMPORARY ART PAVILIONS

– Completed in 1996, this 1,200 sq.m. space

is the most important exhibition centre for

contemporary art in Milan, boasting a garden

area for sculptures, a raised floor for paintings

and a balcony for photos and graphic works.

Fully accessible by the disabled. Opening

hours and ticket prices vary according to the

exhibition on show. www.comune.milano.it.

Via Palestro, 14. T: 02 88446359/360. M1 Palestro,

M3 Turati. MAP G3

PALAZZO DELLA RAGIONE – Built in the 13th

century as a courthouse, the palazzo is located in

one of the oldest and most picturesque squares

in the city. Renovated in the Eighties, it is now a

prestigious exhibition space. Opening hours and

ticket prices vary according to the exhibition on

show. www.comune.milano.it. Piazza Mercanti, 1.

T: 02 875672. M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

PALAZZO REALE – Formerly the residence of all

those who governed Milan, from Napoleon

to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal

Palace is currently one of the most important

cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions

of international renown. Opening hours vary

according to the exhibition on show. www.

comune.milano.it. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 875672.

M1-M3 Duomo. MAP F5

PINACOTECA DI BRERA –

The Brera Art Gallery is one of the most important

museums in Milan. Its permanent collections

offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and

foreign masterpieces including Mantegna’s

“Dead Christ”, Raphael’s “Marriage of the Virgin”,

Caravaggio’s “Supper at Emmaus” and, for a little

light relief, “The Kiss” by Hayez. Open Tues-Sun

8.30am-7.15pm. Full ticket price €11. www.brera.

beniculturali.it. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza,

M3 Montenapoleone. MAP F3

RISORGIMENTO MUSEUM –

Located in the Brera district, the museum depicts

the Unification of the Kingdom of Italy with

prints, paintings, sculptures, drawings, weapons

and other memorabilia. The very first Italian flag

is housed here. Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-

5.30pm. Full admission fee €2. Free for children

under 18 and every Friday afternoon. www.

museodelrisorgimento.mi.it. Via Borgonuovo, 23.

T: 02 88464177. M2 Lanza, M3 Montenapoleone.

MAP F3

ROTONDA DELLA BESANA – Formerly used as a

cemetery and subsequently as the city’s hospital,

this evocative venue is currently an exhibition

centre with porticoes and gardens open to the

public. Opening hours and ticket prices vary

according to the exhibition on show. www.

comune.milano.it. Via Besana, 15. T: 02 5455047.

MAP H6. M3 Crocetta.

STUDIO-MUSEUM FRANCESCO MESSINA – Located

in the old deconsecrated Church of S. Sisto, just

a few steps from the Duomo, Francesco Messina,

twentieth century Italian sculptor, chose the venue

himself, considering it an ideal spot to display the

works that he had donated to the city. Tues-Sat

2pm-6pm. Free admission. www.comune.milano.

it. Via San Sisto, 4/A. T: 02 86453005. M1-M3 Duomo.

MAP E5

Art at a Royal Location

Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from

Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is

currently one of the most important cultural centres in the city,

hosting exhibitions of international renown. Currently on exhibit

"Dalí’s Approaching Dream". Piazza Duomo, 12.

TRIENNALE DESIGN MUSEUM – The Triennale di

Milano is one of the most vibrant, popular and

important exhibition centres in the city. Featuring