Antioxidants - Kinetik

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Antioxidants - Kinetik

Antioxidants

intelligence behind beauty


ANTIOXIDANTS

NATURAL PROTECTION

OF SKIN AND COSMETIC PRODUCTS

Oxidative processes are all around us. As the metabolism of

every living organism depends on conversions of chemicals

with a high energetic content, and oxidation is involved

in every cell, it does not wonder that nature has learnt to

cope with oxidative systems and exploit them for energy

production. On the other hand, our life expectancy is growing

and the intensity of solar radiation is increasing. Thus, the

oxidative stress for our skin is much higher than years

ago and we are approaching a natural limit of our skin’s

resistance against the influence of sunlight, oxygen and other

unavoidable oxidative burden. The results of changes in the

skin’s integrity, triggered by harmful oxidative reactions, is

commonly known as premature aging of the skin. Therefore

we have to protect our skin against oxidative reactions to

avoid premature skin aging.

As nature offers perfect antioxidants, developed in many

millions of years, it doesn’t appear useful to invent new

compounds. We have to identify the right compounds and

blend them to obtain the best possible effect for different

applications. And as described above we have identified

exactly two different systems that need protection with

different requirements due to their nature.

Cosmetic formulations are nowadays increasingly

complex formulations with sometimes expensive and often

sensitive raw materials. There are growing numbers of active

concepts in modern cosmetic products, many of them

from natural origin. And all these products have one thing

in common: they are not living systems and lack restorable

antioxidant systems. Therefore they are subject to quick

deterioration if not protected. In cosmetic compositions

it has been found that the natural mixture of α, β, γ- and

δ-tocopherols like

Toco 70 is more active

against deterioration than the single species. The natural

blend of Tocopherol guarantees a strong and long lasting

effect for product protection. For natural cosmetics

Toco 70 non-GMO with organic sunflower

oil as solvent is the right choice.

hours to reach induction period @ 110°C

no antioxidants 1,8

natural (mixed) tocopherols 10,50,005 %

synthetic (dl-alpha) tocopherols 12,3 0,02 %

natural (mixed) tocopherols 19,40,02 %

Oil Stability Index

0 7 14 21 25 35 42 49

g-Tocopherol 2000
 778,0082988 773,8589212 771,7842324 769,7095436 763,4854772 763,4854772 771,7842324 769,7095436 724

d-Tocopherol 269,7095436 265,560166 269,7095436 269,7095436 269,7095436 286,3070539 280,0829876 271,7842324 248,9

a-Tocopherol 1800
 72,61410788 72,61410788 82,98755187 78,83817427 78,83817427 72,61410788 93,36099585 82,98755187 66,39

Tocopherols 1120,33195 1112,033195 1124,481328 1118,257261 1112,033195 1122,406639 1145,228216 1124,481328 1039,

Peroxidzahl 2,074688797 2,074688797 4,149377593 4,149377593 6,22406639 6,22406639 8,298755187 8,298755187 10,37

Ascorbylpalmitat 296,6804979 286,3070539 228,2157676 170,1244813 165,9751037 105,8091286 72,61410788 103,7344398 20,74

Natural restoration of tocopherol happens by

1600


reduction with ascorbic acid to re-establish the tocopherol’s

1400


antioxidative capacity in living cells. This cycle can be

1200


mimicked and thus additional synergistic activity can be

1000


achieved by addition of

ascorbyl palmitate.

800


This component will make the tocopherols available for a

longer

600


time.

0 7 14 21 25 35 42 49

g-Tocopherol 778,0082988 773,8589212 771,7842324 769,7095436 763,4854772 763,4854772 771,7842324 769,7095436 724

d-Tocopherol 269,7095436 265,560166 269,7095436 269,7095436 269,7095436 286,3070539 280,0829876 271,7842324 248,9

a-Tocopherol 72,61410788 72,61410788 82,98755187 78,83817427 78,83817427 72,61410788 93,36099585 82,98755187 66,39

Tocopherols 1120,33195 1112,033195 1124,481328 1118,257261 1112,033195 1122,406639 1145,228216 1124,481328 1039,

Peroxidzahl 400
 2,074688797 2,074688797 4,149377593 4,149377593 6,22406639 6,22406639 8,298755187 8,298755187 10,37

Ascorbylpalmitat 296,6804979 286,3070539 228,2157676 170,1244813 165,9751037 105,8091286 72,61410788 103,7344398 20,74

200


0


0
 7
 014
 21
 25
 7 35
 42
 49
 14 63
 70
 77
 21 84
 91
 98
 25 105
 112
 119
 35 126
 133
 140
 42 147
 49

g-Tocopherol 2000
 778,0082988 773,8589212 771,7842324 769,7095436 763,4854772 763,4854772 771,7842324 769,7095436 724,06

d-Tocopherol 269,7095436 Toco
Mix
 265,560166 269,7095436 Peroxide
value
 269,7095436 269,7095436 Toco
Mix
+
AP
 286,3070539 Peroxide
value


280,0829876 271,7842324 248,9626

a-Tocopherol 1800
 72,61410788 72,61410788 82,98755187 78,83817427 78,83817427 72,61410788 93,36099585 82,98755187 66,39004

Tocopherols 1120,33195 1112,033195 1124,481328 1118,257261 1112,033195 1122,406639 1145,228216 1124,481328 1039,419

Peroxidzahl 1600
 2,074688797 2,074688797 4,149377593 4,149377593 6,22406639 6,22406639 8,298755187 8,298755187 10,37344

Ascorbylpalmitat 296,6804979 286,3070539 228,2157676 170,1244813 165,9751037 105,8091286 72,61410788 103,7344398 20,74688

1400


ppm antioxidant/peroxide value x 0,1

1200


1000


0 7 14 21 25 35 42 49

g-Tocopherol 800
 778,0082988 773,8589212 771,7842324 769,7095436 763,4854772 763,4854772 771,7842324 769,7095436 724,06

d-Tocopherol 269,7095436 265,560166 269,7095436 269,7095436 269,7095436 286,3070539 280,0829876 271,7842324 248,9626

a-Tocopherol 600
 72,61410788 72,61410788 82,98755187 78,83817427 78,83817427 72,61410788 93,36099585 82,98755187 66,39004

Tocopherols 1120,33195 1112,033195 1124,481328 1118,257261 1112,033195 1122,406639 1145,228216 1124,481328 1039,419

Peroxidzahl 400
 2,074688797 2,074688797 4,149377593 4,149377593 6,22406639 6,22406639 8,298755187 8,298755187 10,37344

Ascorbylpalmitat 296,6804979 286,3070539 228,2157676 170,1244813 165,9751037 105,8091286 72,61410788 103,7344398 20,74688

200


0


Protection against Oxidation

0
 7
 14
 21
 25
 35
 42
 49
 63
 70
 77
 84
 91
 98
 105
 112
 119
 126
 133
 140
 147


days

Toco
Mix
 Peroxide
value
 Toco
Mix
+
AP
 Peroxide
value


Fig. 2: The restoration of the antioxidative capacity by added Ascorbyl

Palmitate (AP) prolongs the time of protection against oxidative

deterioration. Without Ascorbyl Palmitate the Tocopherol mixture is

significantly oxidised and the peroxide value of the formulation increases

significantly after 6 weeks (dark blue lines). With added Ascorbyl Palmitate

the same process is delayed and starts after 18 weeks (light blue lines).

Slowing down oxidation is also achieved by addition

of a chelating agent. It is well known that certain heavy metal

ions (e.g. iron, copper) act as catalysts for oxidative reactions.

Therefore by adding a chelator like

PA (INCI:

Phytic Acid) and inactivating the metal ions by complexation

the oxidation will slow down and thus be a first line protection

against oxidation. Phytic acid is one of the strongest natural

chelating agent, exceeding the complexing power of EDTA for

many metal ions. Phytic acid can be used over a broad pH

range (3-10), is derived from 100% natural sources and is fully

biodegradable.

20

18

hours to reach

induction period (110°C)

16

14

12

10

8

6

4

2

0

no antioxidants

no

antioxidants

(mixed)

tocopherols

natural

0,005 %

(mixed)

tocopherols

0,005%

(dl-alpha)

tocopherols

synthetic

0,02 %

(dl-alpha)

tocopherols

0,02%

(mixed)

tocopherols

natural

0,02 %

(mixed)

tocopherols

0,02%

Fig. 1: The antioxidative capacity of natural (D-) Tocopherols is higher than

that of the synthetic (DL-) mixture of α-Tocopherol.

drstraetmans · intelligence behind beauty


log K

18

16

14

12

10

8

6

4

2

0

PA

Mg++ Ca++ Cu++ Fe+++ Co++ Ni++

P A 10,57 10,87 10,91 17,63 15,27 14,97

E D T A 3,91 5,7 13,86 14,58 11,52 13,64

Complexing constants at pH 6

EDTA

Mg++ Ca++ Cu++ Fe+++ Co++ Ni++ Zn++

commercially available synthetic D,L-Tocopherol is not as

effective as the natural pure D-Tocopherol. That’s why our

recommendation for an effective anti-aging concept will point

at

E 67 non-GMO. This is pure D-α−Tocopherol

sourced from certified non-GMO plants. Another elegant

way to protect the skin is the use of Tocopheryl Acetate –

E 74 A non GMO. This material is stable in the

cosmetic formulation and unfolds its antioxidative properties

only when it is applied on the skin. There, with the help of

enzymes present in our skin, fresh Tocopherols are generated

from the precursor and will protect the skin. The possibilities

for anti-aging concepts are completed with our green tea

extracts. The

Phenon group of products with its

high content of polyphenols delivers well known antioxidative

protection to the skin.

Fig. 3: Comparison of complexing constants between Phytic Acid and

EDTA, showing superior levels of complexation of Phytic Acid.

The protection of human skin in the sense of antiaging

concepts follows other concepts. It has been shown

that here it is the pure D-α−Tocopherol that shows the highest

activity of the naturally occurring tocopherols. Furthermore,

And, naturally, to complete our picture of natural antioxidants

we offer the relevant products in non-GMO quality. Our

complete range of antioxidants is in full accordance with

natural cosmetic standards, produced using 100% renewable

resources, fully biologically degradable and ECOCERT

registered.

Our Antioxidants INCI Function

Toco 70 Tocopherol Antioxidant

Toco 70 non-GMO Tocopherol Antioxidant

E 67 non-GMO Tocopherol Anti-aging active

E 74 A non-GMO Tocopheryl Acetate Anti-aging active

Ascorbyl Palmitate Ascorbyl Palmitate Co-antioxidant

Phenon 90 M Camelia Sinensis Extract Anti-aging complex from green tea

Phenon 30 R Camelia Sinensis Extract Anti-aging complex from green tea

EGCG Epigallocatechin Gallate Anti-aging agent from green tea

PA Phytic Acid Chelating agent

PA-3 Sodium Phytate Chelating Agent

drstraetmans · intelligence behind beauty


OUR REPRESENTATIVES ABROAD

Europe

Benelux

Jan van Laarhoven-Waalwijk b.v.

E-Mail: laarhoven@planet.nl

Bulgaria

Biesterfeld Pro Specialty Chemicals

E-Mail: pavel.makedonski@biesterfeldpro.com

www.biesterfeldpro.com

Croatia

Biesterfeld Spezialchemie d.o.o.

E-Mail: gordana.peric@biesterfeld.hr

www.biesterfeld.hr

Czech Republic

Biesterfeld Silcom s.r.o.

E-Mail: terezie.sestakova@bisi.cz

www.bisi.cz

Denmark/Iceland/Norway

Bionord A/S

E-Mail: info@bionord.dk

www.bionord.dk

France

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics S.A.

E-Mail: info@lmcosmetics.fr

www.lmcosmetics.fr

Great Britain

Gemro Products Ltd.

E-Mail: stephen.blech@gemroproducts.com

www.gemroproducts.com

Greece

Cellco Chemicals Ltd.

E-Mail: paraskevopoulos@cellco.gr

Hungary

Biesterfeld Special Chemicals Hungary Ltd.

E-Mail: l.vereckei@biesterfeld.hu

www.biesterfeld.hu

Italy

Pharma Cosm Polli srl

E-Mail: info@pharmacosm.it

www.pharmacosm.it

Poland

Biesterfeld Polska Sp.z.o.o.

E-Mail: r.borzyminska@biesterfeld.com.pl

www.chemia.biesterfeld.com.pl

Romania

Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Romania S.R.L.

E-Mail: cmicu@biesterfeld.ro

www.biesterfeld-spezialchemie.ro

Spain

Comercial Quimica Jover, S.L.

E-Mail: comercial@cqjover.com

www.cqjover.com

Sweden/Finland

Bionord AB

E-Mail: lena@bionord.se

www.bionord.se

Switzerland

Rahn AG

E-Mail: schulerg@rahn-group.com

www.rahn.ch

Asia/Pacific

Iran

Tooska-E-Khorasan Trading Co.

E-Mail: hrt@tooskaco.com

www.tooskaco.com

Israel

Efal chemical industries ltd.

E-Mail: roni@efal.com

www.efal.com

Korea

HANA Trading Company

E-Mail: Hoffnung@hitel.net

Phillippines

CTC Far East Phils. Inc.

E-Mail: faith@ctcfareastphils.com

www.ctc-group.com

Thailand

Adinop Co. Ltd.

E-Mail: mail@adinop.co.th

www.adinop.co.th

Australia/New Zealand

RejuvaCare

E-Mail: smorse@rejuvacare.com.au

www.rejuvacare.com.au

Americas

Argentina/Brazil

nordest nova s.a..

E-Mail: sergio.engrassi@nordest-nova.com

www.nordest-nova.com

USA

Kinetik Technologies, Inc.

E-Mail: chj@kinetiktech.com

Web: www.kinetiktech.com

Chile

Maprin Representaciones Ltda.

E-Mail: JCroxatto@Maprin.cl

Colombia

Cromaroma Ltda

E-Mail: cromaroma@etb.net.co

Africa

South Africa

Meganede

E-Mail: megan.jones@meganede.com

www.meganede.com

Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH

Merkurring 60–62 · D-22143 Hamburg

Phone: +49 40-66 93 56 0 · Fax: +49 40-66 93 56 310

email: info@dr-straetmans.de · www.dr-straetmans.de

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