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Practical Modern Hair Science - Alluredbooks.com

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<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

www.<strong>Alluredbooks</strong>.<strong>com</strong><br />

Index<br />

#<br />

2-in-1 shampoos 94, 445, 496, 504<br />

A<br />

a-keratin 250<br />

a-keratin fibers 190, 249<br />

AA (alopecia areata) 63-4, 73, 233, 423<br />

acid<br />

oleic 136, 395, 398<br />

phosphotungstic 12-14, 17<br />

acrylamide 95, 106, 109<br />

adhesion 376, 435, 438-9, 442, 537<br />

adsorption 77, 88, 148, 338-9, 341-2, 345, 348, 352, 358-60, 362, 365<br />

water-hair 338<br />

adsorption isotherms 336, 338, 341, 343, 351-2, 357-8, 360<br />

hair-water 339<br />

adsorption rates 346, 349-51<br />

AFM (atomic force microscopy) 115, 372, 442-3<br />

African American 201, 214, 220, 233, 399<br />

African hair 197-8, 201-3, 221, 226, 311, 317, 319, 326, 474<br />

untreated 318-19<br />

African hair types 181, 213, 470, 474<br />

539


<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

Afro hair 194, 259-64, 274, 276-7, 291<br />

relaxed 262, 264-5<br />

agents 76, 382, 402, 420-1<br />

oxidizing 117, 121, 158, 164, 174, 178, 180<br />

reductive 371<br />

surface-active 76<br />

algorithmic modeling 316<br />

alkali 181-2, 386, 418<br />

alkalizer 122, 124-6, 131, 134-5, 137, 139, 144, 153<br />

alopecia areata see AA<br />

alpha-keratin fibers 37, 189-90, 249-50<br />

alpha-keratins 368, 386<br />

American Chemical Society 111, 412, 529, 535<br />

amino acid(s) 2-3, 21, 24-5, 28, 32, 198, 200-1, 302, 367-8, 383, 397<br />

amino acid analysis 13, 35, 166-7, 173, 189, 200, 226<br />

amino acid residues 11-12, 22, 37<br />

amino acid sequences 24-6, 31-3<br />

ammonia 122, 124-6, 134-5, 137, 139, 178, 184, 201<br />

ammoniacal silver nitrate 7, 9, 11, 18<br />

ammonium thioglycolate 167, 173, 178, 182, 189, 231, 386<br />

anagen 49, 51-3, 57, 452, 465, 474<br />

anagen hair follicles 53-4, 64<br />

androgenetic alopecia 58-60, 73<br />

anion, perhydroxyl 125, 132, 144, 147, 149<br />

anionic surfactant 87, 89-90, 93-4, 113<br />

antifungal activities 402-3, 406-7, 412<br />

APM (arrector pili muscle) 41<br />

apoptosis 49-50, 54-5, 411<br />

arrector pili muscle (APM) 41<br />

Asian hair 172, 183, 195, 203, 226, 232-3, 235<br />

atomic force microscopy see AFM<br />

atopic dermatitis 394, 412-13<br />

Australia 8, 36, 331, 365, 453<br />

awl hair 43<br />

540


B<br />

bending 155, 161-2, 175-7, 190, 236, 238-9, 241, 451, 471-2, 474,<br />

485, 487, 490<br />

bending properties 239, 471, 483<br />

bending stiffness 34, 100, 236, 239-40, 471, 483<br />

bending strength 238, 240<br />

bleach products 119, 144-6, 148<br />

persulfate 138, 150<br />

bleached hair 154, 236, 287<br />

bleaches 119, 121, 126, 145-6, 353<br />

Brazilian hair 207, 214<br />

brush 251-2, 282, 290, 325, 472, 499, 505, 507, 520-1<br />

buildup 76, 97, 334, 512, 516, 520<br />

bulb 50, 63, 195, 199, 219-20<br />

C<br />

calcium 149-50, 155, 184<br />

California Air Resource Board (CARB) 426-7, 448<br />

carbomers 92, 100, 418-19, 421, 423, 425<br />

catagen 49-52, 54<br />

cationic polymers 88-9, 91, 93-4, 96, 101, 107, 113, 449<br />

Caucasian hair<br />

conditioned 286-7<br />

hair fibers 272<br />

repeated grooming of virgin 282, 287<br />

cell membrane 14, 16, 35, 76, 148, 376, 489<br />

cell types, cortical 18-19, 35<br />

cells<br />

mesenchymal 44-5, 47, 68<br />

ortho-cortical 196, 198-9<br />

ceramides 201, 401, 408, 475<br />

chemical treatments 9, 251, 319, 339-40, 353, 355, 502, 511<br />

children 64-5, 399, 469, 476, 489<br />

hair of 476, 480<br />

Index<br />

541


<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

chlorine water treatment 9-10<br />

cholesterol 201, 392, 474-6<br />

esters 392, 476-7<br />

chromophores 123-5, 130, 297, 301-2, 387<br />

CI (confidence interval) 42, 201, 204, 215-16, 218, 319<br />

climbazole 402, 407, 413<br />

CMC (cell membrane <strong>com</strong>plex) 2, 7-8, 13-16, 35, 76, 78, 91-2, 94,<br />

148, 376, 489<br />

co-surfactant 90-1, 95, 102, 104-5<br />

coil, helical 159-62<br />

coiled-coil dimers 25-30<br />

color 55, 117-18, 120-2, 128, 132-3, 138-40, 143, 145-6, 151-3, 203-<br />

4, 301-2, 452-3, 480-1, 516, 518<br />

final 120, 122, 131, 145<br />

measuring 120<br />

natural 117-18, 120, 122, 137, 146<br />

new 118<br />

underlying 118-19, 121-2<br />

color fade 142, 151-2, 516-19<br />

color formation 126, 129, 134, 147, 151, 378<br />

color image analysis 330<br />

color measurements 323<br />

microscopic hair 332<br />

colorants, permanent 121-2, 124, 126, 146<br />

coloring 119, 142, 145, 153-4, 251, 502<br />

process 147, 150-1, 153<br />

products 121, 133, 135, 144, 146, 151<br />

first hair 153<br />

permanent 119<br />

<strong>com</strong>b 210-11, 251-2, 281-2, 334, 472, 482, 487, 495, 499-500, 502,<br />

505, 507<br />

<strong>com</strong>bing 99, 132, 135, 150, 207, 210-13, 280, 293, 420, 444, 473,<br />

485, 489<br />

wet 95, 444, 473<br />

542


Index<br />

conditioner formulations 84, 101, 105<br />

conditioner products 150, 280, 496, 503, 507, 509<br />

conventional 355, 357<br />

conditioners 75, 84, 93, 99, 101, 104-6, 135, 142, 150, 152, 209, 211,<br />

445, 495-7, 503-4<br />

conditioning 90, 98-101, 110, 113-14, 135, 155, 293, 315, 357, 403,<br />

405, 429, 434, 489, 504<br />

agents 95, 100, 110, 135, 150, 502<br />

gel phase 99<br />

polymers 93, 96, 106-7, 109, 445<br />

products 280, 498, 515-16, 521<br />

properties 107, 109<br />

shampoo <strong>com</strong>positions 93, 113-14<br />

shampoos 92-5, 97-100, 113<br />

transparent 97<br />

confidence interval see CI<br />

contact angle 85-6, 355<br />

contact dermatitis 190-1<br />

contrast gloss 302-3<br />

copolymerization 423, 425, 437<br />

copolymers 106, 109-10, 422<br />

copper 121, 125-6, 134, 147, 149, 151, 155, 406<br />

cortex 5, 16, 19, 31, 42, 48, 106, 123-4, 148, 191, 198, 245, 375-7,<br />

447, 471-2<br />

cortical cells 16-18, 21, 36, 223, 376<br />

cross-link 11, 26, 32, 374, 377<br />

cross-linking 26, 149, 367, 375, 377<br />

curl 18, 157-9, 161, 180-1, 194-6, 204, 206-9, 211, 213-14, 217, 219-<br />

20, 325, 534<br />

curl types 205, 207, 210, 213-14, 216-18<br />

curlers 157-8, 161, 164<br />

curliness 21, 197-9<br />

curly 194, 197-8, 204-5, 211, 311-12, 315, 319, 443, 473-4<br />

curly hair 18, 183, 195, 198-9, 210-13, 219, 297, 445, 474, 510<br />

543


<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

extensions 208<br />

curved hair 221, 488<br />

cuticle 5-6, 10, 12-14, 16, 18, 34-5, 42, 48, 106, 148-51, 177, 202,<br />

236-8, 375-6, 472<br />

cells 7-10, 12, 14-15, 223, 301<br />

layers 42, 48, 203, 223<br />

structure 330, 512-14<br />

cycles, hair growth 72, 453, 487<br />

cysteamine 172-4, 178, 189<br />

cysteic acid 3, 9, 148, 164, 166, 374<br />

cystine 3, 9, 11-12, 14-15, 23-4, 167, 198, 248, 302, 367-9, 371, 374-5<br />

D<br />

dandruff 209-10, 389-96, 398-403, 408-13, 530, 535<br />

control 413<br />

over-the-counter treatment of 407<br />

severe 390, 412-13<br />

treatment 403-5<br />

dark hair 122-3, 146, 312, 454-5, 458<br />

DC (dermal condensate) 45, 48, 322<br />

denaturation 376, 378-80, 382, 385<br />

denaturation temperature 380, 385<br />

depilatories 184, 188, 191<br />

dermal papilla see DP<br />

dermal sheath see DS<br />

dermis 42, 44-5, 48, 54<br />

desorption isotherms 337-8, 345, 358-9<br />

detangling 135, 207, 209, 252, 493, 501-2<br />

developer 131-4, 136-8<br />

direct dyes 119, 138, 145, 152<br />

diseases 36, 59, 64, 72, 220, 410-11, 455<br />

disulfide bond reduction 167, 189-90, 386-7<br />

disulfide bonds 149, 164-5, 167-8, 176, 190, 232, 246, 367-9, 371-2,<br />

385-7<br />

dithiothreitol 11-12, 170, 372<br />

544


Index<br />

DMA (Dynamic Mechanical Analysis) 234, 241, 437<br />

DoE (design of experiments) 425<br />

DP (dermal papilla) 42-3, 45, 48-51, 53, 413<br />

dry hair 2, 16, 99, 211, 225, 230-1, 241, 334, 343, 360, 383, 441, 473<br />

dry hair conditioning 474<br />

DS (dermal sheath) 42-3<br />

DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) 183, 377, 380, 384-5, 443<br />

DSC analysis of hair fibers 385<br />

dye formation 119, 127-8, 131<br />

dye molecules 517-18<br />

colored 119-20<br />

dye precursors 119, 121-2, 126-8, 131, 134-5, 137, 153<br />

dyes 16, 35, 117, 119, 122, 129, 131, 135, 138-42, 145, 149, 151-2,<br />

154, 324, 489<br />

natural 142-3<br />

Dynamic Mechanical Analysis see DMA<br />

E<br />

ectoderm 44, 67-8<br />

ellipticity 195-6, 204, 217, 219, 228, 451, 467-8, 470-1, 474, 483, 485<br />

ellipticity values 214, 216, 218<br />

emulsions 101, 104-5, 133, 187, 296<br />

water-in-water 97<br />

endocuticle 12-14, 16, 211<br />

environmental conditions 210, 263, 265, 280, 292, 333, 336, 340,<br />

344, 444<br />

epicuticle 9-11, 35, 376<br />

epidermis 39-40, 42, 44, 46, 49, 53, 68, 70, 72, 391, 396, 410<br />

interfollicular 46, 52-3<br />

epithelial cells 15, 40, 45-6, 48, 53<br />

epithelial stem cells 51, 72<br />

equipment 241, 254, 344, 361<br />

esters, wax 392, 475-7<br />

ethanol 187, 360-2, 382, 429<br />

ethnic groups 39, 199, 203-4, 206, 209-10, 214-17, 534<br />

545


<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

ethnic hair 193-4, 220, 274, 534<br />

eumelanin 55-6, 118, 122-3, 301-2, 320, 375, 456<br />

eumelanin granules 123-4<br />

exocuticle 12, 14, 31-2<br />

eyelashes 40, 48, 295, 324-6, 328-9, 332<br />

treated 326-8<br />

F<br />

F-layer 148-9, 351, 354-5<br />

removal 148, 150-1<br />

fatigue experiments 254, 261, 267, 352<br />

single fiber 253, 280, 292<br />

fatigue results 261-3<br />

fatty acids 8, 14, 75, 201-2, 376, 392, 475-6<br />

free 392, 396, 398<br />

female pattern hair loss see FPHL<br />

fiber assembly, polymer-treated hair 449<br />

fiber axis 16, 224, 243, 311<br />

fiber breakage 257, 278, 284, 292, 352, 506<br />

fiber curvature 35, 155, 318, 473, 489<br />

increasing hair 482, 485<br />

fiber cuticle 16, 23, 31, 35, 386<br />

fiber diameter 160-1, 258, 461-2, 465, 471, 473, 483, 485, 521<br />

optical 461, 463<br />

fiber dimensions 258-9, 265, 272-3, 280<br />

fiber fragments, broken 282, 287<br />

fiber friction 473, 483<br />

fiber length 237, 471, 480, 527<br />

fiber properties 334, 352, 452, 459, 474, 478<br />

single 159, 249, 314, 331, 489-90<br />

fiber stiffness 473, 482, 487, 521<br />

fiber structure 31, 245, 260, 323, 386<br />

fibroblast growth factor 46, 69<br />

film 78, 300-1, 313, 420, 435-7<br />

546


Index<br />

resinous 420-1, 425<br />

fine hair 161, 177, 238, 259, 445, 459, 520-1<br />

fixative 421, 425-6, 439, 449<br />

fixative polymers 418-19, 421, 425, 434, 447<br />

fixative resin 418-20<br />

flakes 389-91, 400-1, 404, 408<br />

flaking 390-1, 395-6, 400, 402, 409, 420, 422-3, 425, 443<br />

foam 78, 87-91, 102, 133, 140, 153, 403, 417, 421, 434-5<br />

foaming 91, 94, 104, 419-21<br />

follicle 2, 42, 45, 48-50, 52-3, 57, 124, 195-7, 252, 367, 386, 452<br />

foreheads 476-8<br />

formula 133-4, 136-7, 140, 144-5, 174, 178, 280, 416, 420, 425, 427,<br />

434, 494, 504<br />

formulations 83, 91, 99, 101, 134-5, 139, 181, 187-8, 357, 406, 418-<br />

19, 421, 447-8, 494-5, 502-3<br />

FPHL (female pattern hair loss) 58, 60-2, 488<br />

fragrance 75, 89-90, 421, 428, 493-4<br />

friction 9, 34, 75, 100, 155, 207, 221, 314, 386, 442, 483, 489, 499<br />

frizz 207, 209, 311, 510-11, 516, 520<br />

frizziness 467, 481-2, 485, 511<br />

frizzy hair 209, 311-12, 315, 320<br />

G<br />

gelation 379-81<br />

gels 105, 133, 142, 144, 199, 417-19, 425, 445, 448<br />

genes 36, 50, 52, 68-9, 219, 530<br />

gloss 96, 104, 302-3<br />

goniophotometer 303-5, 307<br />

gray 118, 121-2, 137, 139, 144, 153, 163, 210, 321, 453-7, 480<br />

H<br />

hair 1-9, 94-101, 138-52, 157-84, 186-221, 223-30, 232-44, 295-304,<br />

315-24, 329-36, 344-76, 415-21, 465-76, 478-85, 502-11<br />

brown 122, 302, 315<br />

colored 135, 150, 155, 445, 455, 480<br />

conditioned 286-7<br />

547


<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

curled 179, 195<br />

dyed 154, 456, 516-19<br />

elliptical 160, 237, 239<br />

kinky 181, 194<br />

lanugo 48<br />

lighten 117, 518<br />

natural 118, 207, 211<br />

non-pigmented 458, 488<br />

perm 171-2<br />

product-treated 500<br />

straighten 180, 208<br />

treated 101, 312, 435, 502<br />

vellus 40, 48, 58<br />

wavy 181, 311-12, 445, 472-3<br />

hair aging 57, 451-2, 483-4, 488<br />

hair biology 198, 531<br />

hair bulb 41, 45, 49, 54, 199, 452<br />

hair care products<br />

aerosol 429<br />

antidandruff 403<br />

international 530<br />

hair color 56, 72, 118, 120, 122, 137, 144, 153, 206, 320, 322-3, 332,<br />

480-1, 513, 533<br />

lightest 480, 484<br />

natural 117, 119, 122, 152-3<br />

hair colorants 146, 152<br />

hair condition 292, 519<br />

hair conditioners 105, 155, 445, 473, 535<br />

hair cortex 7, 19, 122, 224<br />

hair curl 236, 317<br />

hair diseases 73, 409, 537<br />

hair disorders 52, 57-8<br />

hair dryness 209<br />

hair dye products 152<br />

hair dyes 152, 155<br />

548


Index<br />

hair fixative polymer 439<br />

hair follicle cycles 43, 49-50<br />

hair follicle melanocytes 55-6<br />

hair follicle morphogenesis 43-4, 47-8, 70-1<br />

hair follicle neogenesis 53, 70<br />

hair frizz 481-2<br />

hair gels 418, 421, 441, 448<br />

hair growth 51, 65, 73<br />

hair hygrometer 333<br />

hair keratins 25, 28, 165, 189, 221, 247, 388, 525<br />

hair lipid levels 482, 485<br />

hair loss 58-9, 63-5, 73, 194, 415, 451, 461-2, 488<br />

hair luster 295, 302-4, 306, 308, 312-13, 330-1, 466-7, 481, 483, 485<br />

hair morphology 416-17, 447<br />

hair mousse 427, 449<br />

hair pigmentation 53, 56, 72, 323, 451<br />

hair proteins 23, 223, 387<br />

hair sprays 5, 142, 418-19, 426-7, 430-1, 441, 445, 521<br />

hair straightening 106, 181-3, 189-91, 534<br />

heat 157-8, 178, 183, 233, 235, 355, 364, 379, 383, 388, 427, 510<br />

helices 22, 36-7, 188<br />

hormones 55, 60-2, 393, 452<br />

HS (hair shaft) 31, 40-3, 47-9, 51, 57-8, 61, 65, 334, 369, 397, 465<br />

HSPs (high sulfur proteins) 199, 382<br />

humidity conditions 263, 267, 273, 278, 337, 441<br />

humidity steps 348, 350-1<br />

hydration 79, 243, 245, 380<br />

hydrocarbons 75, 430, 475<br />

hydrofluorocarbon 428-30, 433<br />

hydrogen bonds 22, 33, 77, 157, 352, 368-70, 373, 380, 385, 387, 510<br />

hydrogen peroxide 117, 119, 121-2, 124-7, 131, 134, 136-9, 144,<br />

147, 150, 153-5, 164, 178, 181<br />

hydrophilic 86, 104-5, 148, 355, 438<br />

hydrophobic 24-5, 86, 101, 423<br />

549


<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

hydrophobicity 76, 86, 101, 104-5, 111, 135, 150, 375, 422-3<br />

I<br />

image analysis 295-6, 306, 309, 311, 319, 323, 326, 329-30, 442<br />

imaging technologies 310, 313, 329<br />

infancy 392, 459, 466, 470<br />

inhibitors 46, 51, 433<br />

inner root sheath see IRS<br />

iron 125, 134, 147, 149-51, 178<br />

irradiation 252, 374-5<br />

IRS (inner root sheath) 41-2, 48-50, 71, 195-6<br />

J<br />

Japanese hair 172, 198, 203, 465, 468, 482, 488<br />

K<br />

KAPs (keratin associated protein) 20, 23, 31, 33, 36, 157, 199-200,<br />

223-4, 244, 247, 249, 385<br />

keratin bundles 48-9<br />

keratin fibers 35, 37, 106, 154, 190, 224-5, 241-7, 249-50, 343, 365,<br />

377-8, 383-4, 488<br />

keratin macrofibrils 16, 18<br />

ketoconazole 402, 406-7, 412-13<br />

KIF proteins 24-5, 31<br />

type II hair 28<br />

KIFs (keratin intermediate filaments) 1, 20-1, 23, 26-31, 37, 249<br />

kynurenines 302, 320-1, 378<br />

L<br />

lamellae 87-90<br />

lanthionine 182, 191, 370-2, 374<br />

light 96, 135, 152, 202, 210, 220, 237, 246, 297-302, 304, 306, 313,<br />

330, 374, 512-13<br />

light blonde 121, 125-6, 144, 146<br />

light rays 298-9<br />

550


Index<br />

light waves 299-301<br />

lighten 117-18, 122, 124, 145-6<br />

lightening 118-19, 121-2, 125-6, 131-2, 138-9, 144-7, 151<br />

lipases 395-7<br />

lipids 2, 15-16, 115, 148, 198, 201-2, 375, 401, 410, 475-6, 478, 485,<br />

489<br />

sebaceous 401, 409-10<br />

low sulfur proteins (LSPs) 199<br />

LRP (lipoprotein related protein) 68<br />

LSPs (low sulfur proteins) 199<br />

lubrication 75, 357, 364, 496-9, 502, 504, 506, 520<br />

luminosity 307-8, 311, 319, 328<br />

luster 296, 298, 301-4, 307-9, 311-12, 314, 329-31, 466, 481<br />

M<br />

macrofibrils 17, 19-21, 343<br />

mascara 324-8, 332<br />

treatments 296, 324, 327, 329<br />

melanin 2, 53-4, 56, 118-19, 121-2, 124, 135, 137, 146-7, 153, 301,<br />

374-5, 387, 518<br />

melanocyte stem cells 41, 54, 57, 72<br />

melanocytes 39-40, 48, 52-7, 68, 72, 387, 452, 456, 487, 537<br />

melanogenesis 55-6, 124, 153, 387<br />

melanosome granules 123-5<br />

melanosomes 53, 122-4<br />

menopause 464, 478-9, 483, 486, 490<br />

metals 134, 149-50<br />

methanol 360-2, 382<br />

micelles 76, 78-84, 87, 90, 102, 111<br />

spherical 78-81<br />

microfibrils 20, 29, 37, 157, 184, 243-6, 343<br />

Mini Tensile Tester (MTT) 254, 361<br />

moisture 334, 336, 351, 356-7, 364, 384, 386<br />

moisturization 356-7, 498, 522<br />

molecules, amphipathic 79-80<br />

551


<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

monoethanolamine 134-5, 137<br />

monomers 109, 422, 424-5, 436<br />

mousses 110, 140, 142, 421, 430, 434, 445, 521<br />

MTT (Mini Tensile Tester) 254, 361<br />

N<br />

negroid hair 191, 248, 293, 489<br />

neural crest 42, 54, 67-8<br />

neutralization step 164-5, 167, 353<br />

neutralizers 164, 178-9, 181, 437-8<br />

Nicolaides 221, 476, 489<br />

O<br />

oils 76-7, 79, 85-7, 95, 101, 135, 207, 209, 299, 301, 359-60, 362-3,<br />

420-1<br />

ORS (outer root sheath) 41-2, 48-50, 54, 195-6<br />

orthocortex 4, 18, 20-1<br />

outer root sheath see ORS<br />

oxidant 124, 126, 131, 133, 147, 151<br />

oxidation 9, 11, 32, 129, 134, 138, 143, 149, 155, 164-5, 175, 188,<br />

248, 353, 370<br />

oxidative dyes 117, 119, 132, 138-9, 151<br />

oxidative hair color 332, 443<br />

P<br />

paracortex 4, 17-19, 21<br />

permanent waves 166, 181, 183-4, 189, 206, 240<br />

permanent waving 164-5, 177-8, 180-1, 188-90, 231, 236, 248-9, 522<br />

phase separation 79, 98, 102-3<br />

phases 44, 49, 51-2, 87, 90, 94, 101, 103, 176-7, 234, 301<br />

lamellar 84, 103<br />

phenylalanine 198, 201, 374<br />

pheomelanin 55-6, 118, 122-3, 302, 320, 375, 456<br />

photoprotection 375, 387, 488<br />

pigmented hairs 53, 163, 313, 452, 458-9, 480, 515<br />

552


placodes 45-7<br />

plateau border 87-9<br />

polyquaternium-10 91-3, 96-7, 107<br />

post-menopausal 463, 477-8, 481<br />

post-yield slope 226-8, 231, 248<br />

pre-menopausal 463, 478-9<br />

progeny 41-2, 72<br />

propellant 417, 419, 428-31, 433-5<br />

protein chains 22, 25, 27, 29, 33, 37, 343, 370<br />

protein denaturation 380-1, 383<br />

protein molecules 378-9, 383<br />

psoriasis drug products 412-13<br />

puberty 48, 392, 399, 410, 460, 464, 469, 476, 479, 482-3, 486<br />

PVP 420-1, 423-5, 437<br />

pyrithione zinc shampoos 405<br />

Index<br />

R<br />

radiation 63, 303, 373-5, 392<br />

red hair 55, 122, 154, 302, 321, 387<br />

reducing agents 106, 138, 158, 164, 167-75, 178, 186-7, 190<br />

reflection 297, 304, 311<br />

laser-light 330<br />

refraction, index of 298-300<br />

relative humidity see RH<br />

relaxed hair 212-13, 318-19<br />

relaxer treatments 181, 211, 233, 317-19<br />

relaxers 181, 183, 207-8, 213, 232, 326<br />

RH (relative humidity) 158-9, 162-3, 225-6, 228, 235-6, 241-3, 254-5,<br />

257-68, 270-80, 285-9, 333-4, 344, 346-50, 352-3, 356<br />

S<br />

salicylic acid 402-3, 407, 412<br />

salts 81, 90, 102, 105, 111, 143, 147<br />

scalp 4, 6, 39-40, 48, 52, 57, 59-61, 64-5, 389-91, 395-8, 400-1, 407-8,<br />

451-2, 480, 529-31<br />

553


<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

dry 209-10<br />

scalp hair 39, 52, 57, 63, 65, 220, 415, 452, 459, 465, 471-2, 488<br />

sebaceous glands 43, 48-9, 52, 75, 410, 474-6<br />

seborrheic dermatitis 389-92, 394, 396, 398-402, 404, 406-10, 412-<br />

14, 535<br />

sebum 75-6, 87, 207, 308-9, 392, 395, 404, 410, 476-7, 514, 520<br />

shampoos 75-6, 83-5, 87, 89-96, 98, 100-2, 113-14, 142, 152, 403-7,<br />

411-13, 444-5, 496-8, 514, 516-17<br />

shear 101, 242-3, 245, 418-19<br />

shear modulus 160, 236, 238, 242-3, 245, 249, 472<br />

sheath, inner root 41-2, 49, 71, 195-6<br />

shedding 48, 51, 58-9, 61-2, 73<br />

silicone deposition levels 115, 504<br />

silicones 95-8, 100, 104, 110, 113, 135, 150, 155, 303, 420, 445, 504<br />

silver, ammoniacal 10, 12, 14-15, 19<br />

skin 40, 44, 46-50, 53-5, 71-2, 91-2, 95, 104, 220-1, 248-9, 296, 373,<br />

396-7, 410, 535-6<br />

skin diseases 409, 411<br />

solution 11, 28, 77-8, 81, 111, 178, 187, 381, 426, 435, 438<br />

squalene 392, 475-6<br />

stem cells 41-2, 48, 72<br />

stiffness 155, 221, 236, 314, 364, 420, 422-4, 435, 437, 439, 441, 443-4,<br />

471, 473, 489<br />

straight hair 20, 157, 179, 195-6, 198-9, 207, 211-12, 220, 297, 311,<br />

445<br />

straighten 157, 181, 206, 208<br />

straightened hair 211, 213, 511<br />

stress 69, 161, 164-8, 223-4, 226, 231-2, 234, 242, 254-8, 262, 264-8,<br />

270-1, 273, 278-9, 292<br />

oscillating 234, 246<br />

stress relaxation 161, 165, 174-5, 223, 241-5, 247<br />

stress/strain curve 224-6, 228, 233, 245, 250<br />

stress-strain experiments 266-7<br />

structure<br />

coiled-coil 24-5<br />

554


Index<br />

intermediate filament 36, 249<br />

polymer-hair fiber assembly 439<br />

styles 75, 206-8, 291, 416-17, 442, 447, 480<br />

styling 39, 207, 417, 420-1, 425, 434-5, 444, 447<br />

styling polymers 315, 429, 438, 447<br />

advanced 422-4<br />

sulfate 132, 136, 140, 145, 475<br />

sulfide, selenium 402, 406, 412-13<br />

sulfur 402-3, 407<br />

sunlight 1-2, 297, 313, 373-4<br />

surface tension 76-7, 92, 438<br />

surfactants 76-8, 85, 88-94, 101-3, 112-13, 248, 359-60, 434, 491, 535<br />

cationic 99, 104-5, 432, 509<br />

primary 90-1, 95, 105<br />

T<br />

tar, coal 402-3, 407, 413<br />

telogen 49-52, 196-7, 465<br />

telogen effluvium 60-2, 73<br />

telogen hairs 57-8, 61, 65, 197<br />

TEM see Transmission Electron Microscope<br />

temperature 29, 78, 103, 159, 168-9, 208, 230, 232-3, 248, 337-40,<br />

349-51, 376-85, 431, 433, 442<br />

texture analyzer 435-7, 439, 441, 499<br />

thickener 101-2, 133<br />

thioglycolate 169, 173-4, 180-1, 187<br />

tint 131-8<br />

torsion 161-2, 177, 211, 235-6, 471<br />

torsion pendulum 236-9, 243<br />

torsional 224, 236-7, 242<br />

torsional rigidity 223, 236, 238, 451, 472<br />

Transmission Electron Microscope (TEM) 1, 5, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29,<br />

33, 123<br />

TRI (Textile Research Institute) 238-9, 281, 292, 515, 524, 531-2<br />

trichocyte, three-dimensional structure of 37, 249<br />

555


<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />

triglycerides 75, 392, 475<br />

tryptophan 302, 374-5, 378<br />

tyrosine 123, 198, 201, 302, 374-5, 378<br />

U<br />

UV radiation 194, 373-5<br />

UVA 373-5<br />

UVB 373-5<br />

V<br />

vinyl pyrrolidone see VP<br />

virgin hair 235, 288, 350, 506, 527<br />

VOCs (volatile organic <strong>com</strong>pounds) 426-9, 448<br />

VP (vinyl pyrrolidone) 108, 422-5, 437<br />

homopolymer 422-3<br />

W<br />

water<br />

chlorine 9-10<br />

surface tension of 77, 211<br />

tap 149-50<br />

water adsorption 339-40, 342, 346-8, 361, 365<br />

wet <strong>com</strong>bing results 503-5<br />

wetting 112, 355, 433, 438, 473<br />

white hair 118, 128<br />

wool 32, 34-6, 189, 198, 220, 223-4, 241-2, 247, 250, 338-40, 352,<br />

365, 374-5, 377-8, 387-8<br />

sheep’s 5, 8, 21, 23, 35<br />

Y<br />

yeasts 394-5, 404, 411<br />

Z<br />

zinc pyrithione 100, 404-6, 412-13<br />

556

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