Practical Modern Hair Science - Alluredbooks.com
Practical Modern Hair Science - Alluredbooks.com
Practical Modern Hair Science - Alluredbooks.com
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<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />
www.<strong>Alluredbooks</strong>.<strong>com</strong><br />
Index<br />
#<br />
2-in-1 shampoos 94, 445, 496, 504<br />
A<br />
a-keratin 250<br />
a-keratin fibers 190, 249<br />
AA (alopecia areata) 63-4, 73, 233, 423<br />
acid<br />
oleic 136, 395, 398<br />
phosphotungstic 12-14, 17<br />
acrylamide 95, 106, 109<br />
adhesion 376, 435, 438-9, 442, 537<br />
adsorption 77, 88, 148, 338-9, 341-2, 345, 348, 352, 358-60, 362, 365<br />
water-hair 338<br />
adsorption isotherms 336, 338, 341, 343, 351-2, 357-8, 360<br />
hair-water 339<br />
adsorption rates 346, 349-51<br />
AFM (atomic force microscopy) 115, 372, 442-3<br />
African American 201, 214, 220, 233, 399<br />
African hair 197-8, 201-3, 221, 226, 311, 317, 319, 326, 474<br />
untreated 318-19<br />
African hair types 181, 213, 470, 474<br />
539
<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />
Afro hair 194, 259-64, 274, 276-7, 291<br />
relaxed 262, 264-5<br />
agents 76, 382, 402, 420-1<br />
oxidizing 117, 121, 158, 164, 174, 178, 180<br />
reductive 371<br />
surface-active 76<br />
algorithmic modeling 316<br />
alkali 181-2, 386, 418<br />
alkalizer 122, 124-6, 131, 134-5, 137, 139, 144, 153<br />
alopecia areata see AA<br />
alpha-keratin fibers 37, 189-90, 249-50<br />
alpha-keratins 368, 386<br />
American Chemical Society 111, 412, 529, 535<br />
amino acid(s) 2-3, 21, 24-5, 28, 32, 198, 200-1, 302, 367-8, 383, 397<br />
amino acid analysis 13, 35, 166-7, 173, 189, 200, 226<br />
amino acid residues 11-12, 22, 37<br />
amino acid sequences 24-6, 31-3<br />
ammonia 122, 124-6, 134-5, 137, 139, 178, 184, 201<br />
ammoniacal silver nitrate 7, 9, 11, 18<br />
ammonium thioglycolate 167, 173, 178, 182, 189, 231, 386<br />
anagen 49, 51-3, 57, 452, 465, 474<br />
anagen hair follicles 53-4, 64<br />
androgenetic alopecia 58-60, 73<br />
anion, perhydroxyl 125, 132, 144, 147, 149<br />
anionic surfactant 87, 89-90, 93-4, 113<br />
antifungal activities 402-3, 406-7, 412<br />
APM (arrector pili muscle) 41<br />
apoptosis 49-50, 54-5, 411<br />
arrector pili muscle (APM) 41<br />
Asian hair 172, 183, 195, 203, 226, 232-3, 235<br />
atomic force microscopy see AFM<br />
atopic dermatitis 394, 412-13<br />
Australia 8, 36, 331, 365, 453<br />
awl hair 43<br />
540
B<br />
bending 155, 161-2, 175-7, 190, 236, 238-9, 241, 451, 471-2, 474,<br />
485, 487, 490<br />
bending properties 239, 471, 483<br />
bending stiffness 34, 100, 236, 239-40, 471, 483<br />
bending strength 238, 240<br />
bleach products 119, 144-6, 148<br />
persulfate 138, 150<br />
bleached hair 154, 236, 287<br />
bleaches 119, 121, 126, 145-6, 353<br />
Brazilian hair 207, 214<br />
brush 251-2, 282, 290, 325, 472, 499, 505, 507, 520-1<br />
buildup 76, 97, 334, 512, 516, 520<br />
bulb 50, 63, 195, 199, 219-20<br />
C<br />
calcium 149-50, 155, 184<br />
California Air Resource Board (CARB) 426-7, 448<br />
carbomers 92, 100, 418-19, 421, 423, 425<br />
catagen 49-52, 54<br />
cationic polymers 88-9, 91, 93-4, 96, 101, 107, 113, 449<br />
Caucasian hair<br />
conditioned 286-7<br />
hair fibers 272<br />
repeated grooming of virgin 282, 287<br />
cell membrane 14, 16, 35, 76, 148, 376, 489<br />
cell types, cortical 18-19, 35<br />
cells<br />
mesenchymal 44-5, 47, 68<br />
ortho-cortical 196, 198-9<br />
ceramides 201, 401, 408, 475<br />
chemical treatments 9, 251, 319, 339-40, 353, 355, 502, 511<br />
children 64-5, 399, 469, 476, 489<br />
hair of 476, 480<br />
Index<br />
541
<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />
chlorine water treatment 9-10<br />
cholesterol 201, 392, 474-6<br />
esters 392, 476-7<br />
chromophores 123-5, 130, 297, 301-2, 387<br />
CI (confidence interval) 42, 201, 204, 215-16, 218, 319<br />
climbazole 402, 407, 413<br />
CMC (cell membrane <strong>com</strong>plex) 2, 7-8, 13-16, 35, 76, 78, 91-2, 94,<br />
148, 376, 489<br />
co-surfactant 90-1, 95, 102, 104-5<br />
coil, helical 159-62<br />
coiled-coil dimers 25-30<br />
color 55, 117-18, 120-2, 128, 132-3, 138-40, 143, 145-6, 151-3, 203-<br />
4, 301-2, 452-3, 480-1, 516, 518<br />
final 120, 122, 131, 145<br />
measuring 120<br />
natural 117-18, 120, 122, 137, 146<br />
new 118<br />
underlying 118-19, 121-2<br />
color fade 142, 151-2, 516-19<br />
color formation 126, 129, 134, 147, 151, 378<br />
color image analysis 330<br />
color measurements 323<br />
microscopic hair 332<br />
colorants, permanent 121-2, 124, 126, 146<br />
coloring 119, 142, 145, 153-4, 251, 502<br />
process 147, 150-1, 153<br />
products 121, 133, 135, 144, 146, 151<br />
first hair 153<br />
permanent 119<br />
<strong>com</strong>b 210-11, 251-2, 281-2, 334, 472, 482, 487, 495, 499-500, 502,<br />
505, 507<br />
<strong>com</strong>bing 99, 132, 135, 150, 207, 210-13, 280, 293, 420, 444, 473,<br />
485, 489<br />
wet 95, 444, 473<br />
542
Index<br />
conditioner formulations 84, 101, 105<br />
conditioner products 150, 280, 496, 503, 507, 509<br />
conventional 355, 357<br />
conditioners 75, 84, 93, 99, 101, 104-6, 135, 142, 150, 152, 209, 211,<br />
445, 495-7, 503-4<br />
conditioning 90, 98-101, 110, 113-14, 135, 155, 293, 315, 357, 403,<br />
405, 429, 434, 489, 504<br />
agents 95, 100, 110, 135, 150, 502<br />
gel phase 99<br />
polymers 93, 96, 106-7, 109, 445<br />
products 280, 498, 515-16, 521<br />
properties 107, 109<br />
shampoo <strong>com</strong>positions 93, 113-14<br />
shampoos 92-5, 97-100, 113<br />
transparent 97<br />
confidence interval see CI<br />
contact angle 85-6, 355<br />
contact dermatitis 190-1<br />
contrast gloss 302-3<br />
copolymerization 423, 425, 437<br />
copolymers 106, 109-10, 422<br />
copper 121, 125-6, 134, 147, 149, 151, 155, 406<br />
cortex 5, 16, 19, 31, 42, 48, 106, 123-4, 148, 191, 198, 245, 375-7,<br />
447, 471-2<br />
cortical cells 16-18, 21, 36, 223, 376<br />
cross-link 11, 26, 32, 374, 377<br />
cross-linking 26, 149, 367, 375, 377<br />
curl 18, 157-9, 161, 180-1, 194-6, 204, 206-9, 211, 213-14, 217, 219-<br />
20, 325, 534<br />
curl types 205, 207, 210, 213-14, 216-18<br />
curlers 157-8, 161, 164<br />
curliness 21, 197-9<br />
curly 194, 197-8, 204-5, 211, 311-12, 315, 319, 443, 473-4<br />
curly hair 18, 183, 195, 198-9, 210-13, 219, 297, 445, 474, 510<br />
543
<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />
extensions 208<br />
curved hair 221, 488<br />
cuticle 5-6, 10, 12-14, 16, 18, 34-5, 42, 48, 106, 148-51, 177, 202,<br />
236-8, 375-6, 472<br />
cells 7-10, 12, 14-15, 223, 301<br />
layers 42, 48, 203, 223<br />
structure 330, 512-14<br />
cycles, hair growth 72, 453, 487<br />
cysteamine 172-4, 178, 189<br />
cysteic acid 3, 9, 148, 164, 166, 374<br />
cystine 3, 9, 11-12, 14-15, 23-4, 167, 198, 248, 302, 367-9, 371, 374-5<br />
D<br />
dandruff 209-10, 389-96, 398-403, 408-13, 530, 535<br />
control 413<br />
over-the-counter treatment of 407<br />
severe 390, 412-13<br />
treatment 403-5<br />
dark hair 122-3, 146, 312, 454-5, 458<br />
DC (dermal condensate) 45, 48, 322<br />
denaturation 376, 378-80, 382, 385<br />
denaturation temperature 380, 385<br />
depilatories 184, 188, 191<br />
dermal papilla see DP<br />
dermal sheath see DS<br />
dermis 42, 44-5, 48, 54<br />
desorption isotherms 337-8, 345, 358-9<br />
detangling 135, 207, 209, 252, 493, 501-2<br />
developer 131-4, 136-8<br />
direct dyes 119, 138, 145, 152<br />
diseases 36, 59, 64, 72, 220, 410-11, 455<br />
disulfide bond reduction 167, 189-90, 386-7<br />
disulfide bonds 149, 164-5, 167-8, 176, 190, 232, 246, 367-9, 371-2,<br />
385-7<br />
dithiothreitol 11-12, 170, 372<br />
544
Index<br />
DMA (Dynamic Mechanical Analysis) 234, 241, 437<br />
DoE (design of experiments) 425<br />
DP (dermal papilla) 42-3, 45, 48-51, 53, 413<br />
dry hair 2, 16, 99, 211, 225, 230-1, 241, 334, 343, 360, 383, 441, 473<br />
dry hair conditioning 474<br />
DS (dermal sheath) 42-3<br />
DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) 183, 377, 380, 384-5, 443<br />
DSC analysis of hair fibers 385<br />
dye formation 119, 127-8, 131<br />
dye molecules 517-18<br />
colored 119-20<br />
dye precursors 119, 121-2, 126-8, 131, 134-5, 137, 153<br />
dyes 16, 35, 117, 119, 122, 129, 131, 135, 138-42, 145, 149, 151-2,<br />
154, 324, 489<br />
natural 142-3<br />
Dynamic Mechanical Analysis see DMA<br />
E<br />
ectoderm 44, 67-8<br />
ellipticity 195-6, 204, 217, 219, 228, 451, 467-8, 470-1, 474, 483, 485<br />
ellipticity values 214, 216, 218<br />
emulsions 101, 104-5, 133, 187, 296<br />
water-in-water 97<br />
endocuticle 12-14, 16, 211<br />
environmental conditions 210, 263, 265, 280, 292, 333, 336, 340,<br />
344, 444<br />
epicuticle 9-11, 35, 376<br />
epidermis 39-40, 42, 44, 46, 49, 53, 68, 70, 72, 391, 396, 410<br />
interfollicular 46, 52-3<br />
epithelial cells 15, 40, 45-6, 48, 53<br />
epithelial stem cells 51, 72<br />
equipment 241, 254, 344, 361<br />
esters, wax 392, 475-7<br />
ethanol 187, 360-2, 382, 429<br />
ethnic groups 39, 199, 203-4, 206, 209-10, 214-17, 534<br />
545
<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />
ethnic hair 193-4, 220, 274, 534<br />
eumelanin 55-6, 118, 122-3, 301-2, 320, 375, 456<br />
eumelanin granules 123-4<br />
exocuticle 12, 14, 31-2<br />
eyelashes 40, 48, 295, 324-6, 328-9, 332<br />
treated 326-8<br />
F<br />
F-layer 148-9, 351, 354-5<br />
removal 148, 150-1<br />
fatigue experiments 254, 261, 267, 352<br />
single fiber 253, 280, 292<br />
fatigue results 261-3<br />
fatty acids 8, 14, 75, 201-2, 376, 392, 475-6<br />
free 392, 396, 398<br />
female pattern hair loss see FPHL<br />
fiber assembly, polymer-treated hair 449<br />
fiber axis 16, 224, 243, 311<br />
fiber breakage 257, 278, 284, 292, 352, 506<br />
fiber curvature 35, 155, 318, 473, 489<br />
increasing hair 482, 485<br />
fiber cuticle 16, 23, 31, 35, 386<br />
fiber diameter 160-1, 258, 461-2, 465, 471, 473, 483, 485, 521<br />
optical 461, 463<br />
fiber dimensions 258-9, 265, 272-3, 280<br />
fiber fragments, broken 282, 287<br />
fiber friction 473, 483<br />
fiber length 237, 471, 480, 527<br />
fiber properties 334, 352, 452, 459, 474, 478<br />
single 159, 249, 314, 331, 489-90<br />
fiber stiffness 473, 482, 487, 521<br />
fiber structure 31, 245, 260, 323, 386<br />
fibroblast growth factor 46, 69<br />
film 78, 300-1, 313, 420, 435-7<br />
546
Index<br />
resinous 420-1, 425<br />
fine hair 161, 177, 238, 259, 445, 459, 520-1<br />
fixative 421, 425-6, 439, 449<br />
fixative polymers 418-19, 421, 425, 434, 447<br />
fixative resin 418-20<br />
flakes 389-91, 400-1, 404, 408<br />
flaking 390-1, 395-6, 400, 402, 409, 420, 422-3, 425, 443<br />
foam 78, 87-91, 102, 133, 140, 153, 403, 417, 421, 434-5<br />
foaming 91, 94, 104, 419-21<br />
follicle 2, 42, 45, 48-50, 52-3, 57, 124, 195-7, 252, 367, 386, 452<br />
foreheads 476-8<br />
formula 133-4, 136-7, 140, 144-5, 174, 178, 280, 416, 420, 425, 427,<br />
434, 494, 504<br />
formulations 83, 91, 99, 101, 134-5, 139, 181, 187-8, 357, 406, 418-<br />
19, 421, 447-8, 494-5, 502-3<br />
FPHL (female pattern hair loss) 58, 60-2, 488<br />
fragrance 75, 89-90, 421, 428, 493-4<br />
friction 9, 34, 75, 100, 155, 207, 221, 314, 386, 442, 483, 489, 499<br />
frizz 207, 209, 311, 510-11, 516, 520<br />
frizziness 467, 481-2, 485, 511<br />
frizzy hair 209, 311-12, 315, 320<br />
G<br />
gelation 379-81<br />
gels 105, 133, 142, 144, 199, 417-19, 425, 445, 448<br />
genes 36, 50, 52, 68-9, 219, 530<br />
gloss 96, 104, 302-3<br />
goniophotometer 303-5, 307<br />
gray 118, 121-2, 137, 139, 144, 153, 163, 210, 321, 453-7, 480<br />
H<br />
hair 1-9, 94-101, 138-52, 157-84, 186-221, 223-30, 232-44, 295-304,<br />
315-24, 329-36, 344-76, 415-21, 465-76, 478-85, 502-11<br />
brown 122, 302, 315<br />
colored 135, 150, 155, 445, 455, 480<br />
conditioned 286-7<br />
547
<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />
curled 179, 195<br />
dyed 154, 456, 516-19<br />
elliptical 160, 237, 239<br />
kinky 181, 194<br />
lanugo 48<br />
lighten 117, 518<br />
natural 118, 207, 211<br />
non-pigmented 458, 488<br />
perm 171-2<br />
product-treated 500<br />
straighten 180, 208<br />
treated 101, 312, 435, 502<br />
vellus 40, 48, 58<br />
wavy 181, 311-12, 445, 472-3<br />
hair aging 57, 451-2, 483-4, 488<br />
hair biology 198, 531<br />
hair bulb 41, 45, 49, 54, 199, 452<br />
hair care products<br />
aerosol 429<br />
antidandruff 403<br />
international 530<br />
hair color 56, 72, 118, 120, 122, 137, 144, 153, 206, 320, 322-3, 332,<br />
480-1, 513, 533<br />
lightest 480, 484<br />
natural 117, 119, 122, 152-3<br />
hair colorants 146, 152<br />
hair condition 292, 519<br />
hair conditioners 105, 155, 445, 473, 535<br />
hair cortex 7, 19, 122, 224<br />
hair curl 236, 317<br />
hair diseases 73, 409, 537<br />
hair disorders 52, 57-8<br />
hair dryness 209<br />
hair dye products 152<br />
hair dyes 152, 155<br />
548
Index<br />
hair fixative polymer 439<br />
hair follicle cycles 43, 49-50<br />
hair follicle melanocytes 55-6<br />
hair follicle morphogenesis 43-4, 47-8, 70-1<br />
hair follicle neogenesis 53, 70<br />
hair frizz 481-2<br />
hair gels 418, 421, 441, 448<br />
hair growth 51, 65, 73<br />
hair hygrometer 333<br />
hair keratins 25, 28, 165, 189, 221, 247, 388, 525<br />
hair lipid levels 482, 485<br />
hair loss 58-9, 63-5, 73, 194, 415, 451, 461-2, 488<br />
hair luster 295, 302-4, 306, 308, 312-13, 330-1, 466-7, 481, 483, 485<br />
hair morphology 416-17, 447<br />
hair mousse 427, 449<br />
hair pigmentation 53, 56, 72, 323, 451<br />
hair proteins 23, 223, 387<br />
hair sprays 5, 142, 418-19, 426-7, 430-1, 441, 445, 521<br />
hair straightening 106, 181-3, 189-91, 534<br />
heat 157-8, 178, 183, 233, 235, 355, 364, 379, 383, 388, 427, 510<br />
helices 22, 36-7, 188<br />
hormones 55, 60-2, 393, 452<br />
HS (hair shaft) 31, 40-3, 47-9, 51, 57-8, 61, 65, 334, 369, 397, 465<br />
HSPs (high sulfur proteins) 199, 382<br />
humidity conditions 263, 267, 273, 278, 337, 441<br />
humidity steps 348, 350-1<br />
hydration 79, 243, 245, 380<br />
hydrocarbons 75, 430, 475<br />
hydrofluorocarbon 428-30, 433<br />
hydrogen bonds 22, 33, 77, 157, 352, 368-70, 373, 380, 385, 387, 510<br />
hydrogen peroxide 117, 119, 121-2, 124-7, 131, 134, 136-9, 144,<br />
147, 150, 153-5, 164, 178, 181<br />
hydrophilic 86, 104-5, 148, 355, 438<br />
hydrophobic 24-5, 86, 101, 423<br />
549
<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />
hydrophobicity 76, 86, 101, 104-5, 111, 135, 150, 375, 422-3<br />
I<br />
image analysis 295-6, 306, 309, 311, 319, 323, 326, 329-30, 442<br />
imaging technologies 310, 313, 329<br />
infancy 392, 459, 466, 470<br />
inhibitors 46, 51, 433<br />
inner root sheath see IRS<br />
iron 125, 134, 147, 149-51, 178<br />
irradiation 252, 374-5<br />
IRS (inner root sheath) 41-2, 48-50, 71, 195-6<br />
J<br />
Japanese hair 172, 198, 203, 465, 468, 482, 488<br />
K<br />
KAPs (keratin associated protein) 20, 23, 31, 33, 36, 157, 199-200,<br />
223-4, 244, 247, 249, 385<br />
keratin bundles 48-9<br />
keratin fibers 35, 37, 106, 154, 190, 224-5, 241-7, 249-50, 343, 365,<br />
377-8, 383-4, 488<br />
keratin macrofibrils 16, 18<br />
ketoconazole 402, 406-7, 412-13<br />
KIF proteins 24-5, 31<br />
type II hair 28<br />
KIFs (keratin intermediate filaments) 1, 20-1, 23, 26-31, 37, 249<br />
kynurenines 302, 320-1, 378<br />
L<br />
lamellae 87-90<br />
lanthionine 182, 191, 370-2, 374<br />
light 96, 135, 152, 202, 210, 220, 237, 246, 297-302, 304, 306, 313,<br />
330, 374, 512-13<br />
light blonde 121, 125-6, 144, 146<br />
light rays 298-9<br />
550
Index<br />
light waves 299-301<br />
lighten 117-18, 122, 124, 145-6<br />
lightening 118-19, 121-2, 125-6, 131-2, 138-9, 144-7, 151<br />
lipases 395-7<br />
lipids 2, 15-16, 115, 148, 198, 201-2, 375, 401, 410, 475-6, 478, 485,<br />
489<br />
sebaceous 401, 409-10<br />
low sulfur proteins (LSPs) 199<br />
LRP (lipoprotein related protein) 68<br />
LSPs (low sulfur proteins) 199<br />
lubrication 75, 357, 364, 496-9, 502, 504, 506, 520<br />
luminosity 307-8, 311, 319, 328<br />
luster 296, 298, 301-4, 307-9, 311-12, 314, 329-31, 466, 481<br />
M<br />
macrofibrils 17, 19-21, 343<br />
mascara 324-8, 332<br />
treatments 296, 324, 327, 329<br />
melanin 2, 53-4, 56, 118-19, 121-2, 124, 135, 137, 146-7, 153, 301,<br />
374-5, 387, 518<br />
melanocyte stem cells 41, 54, 57, 72<br />
melanocytes 39-40, 48, 52-7, 68, 72, 387, 452, 456, 487, 537<br />
melanogenesis 55-6, 124, 153, 387<br />
melanosome granules 123-5<br />
melanosomes 53, 122-4<br />
menopause 464, 478-9, 483, 486, 490<br />
metals 134, 149-50<br />
methanol 360-2, 382<br />
micelles 76, 78-84, 87, 90, 102, 111<br />
spherical 78-81<br />
microfibrils 20, 29, 37, 157, 184, 243-6, 343<br />
Mini Tensile Tester (MTT) 254, 361<br />
moisture 334, 336, 351, 356-7, 364, 384, 386<br />
moisturization 356-7, 498, 522<br />
molecules, amphipathic 79-80<br />
551
<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />
monoethanolamine 134-5, 137<br />
monomers 109, 422, 424-5, 436<br />
mousses 110, 140, 142, 421, 430, 434, 445, 521<br />
MTT (Mini Tensile Tester) 254, 361<br />
N<br />
negroid hair 191, 248, 293, 489<br />
neural crest 42, 54, 67-8<br />
neutralization step 164-5, 167, 353<br />
neutralizers 164, 178-9, 181, 437-8<br />
Nicolaides 221, 476, 489<br />
O<br />
oils 76-7, 79, 85-7, 95, 101, 135, 207, 209, 299, 301, 359-60, 362-3,<br />
420-1<br />
ORS (outer root sheath) 41-2, 48-50, 54, 195-6<br />
orthocortex 4, 18, 20-1<br />
outer root sheath see ORS<br />
oxidant 124, 126, 131, 133, 147, 151<br />
oxidation 9, 11, 32, 129, 134, 138, 143, 149, 155, 164-5, 175, 188,<br />
248, 353, 370<br />
oxidative dyes 117, 119, 132, 138-9, 151<br />
oxidative hair color 332, 443<br />
P<br />
paracortex 4, 17-19, 21<br />
permanent waves 166, 181, 183-4, 189, 206, 240<br />
permanent waving 164-5, 177-8, 180-1, 188-90, 231, 236, 248-9, 522<br />
phase separation 79, 98, 102-3<br />
phases 44, 49, 51-2, 87, 90, 94, 101, 103, 176-7, 234, 301<br />
lamellar 84, 103<br />
phenylalanine 198, 201, 374<br />
pheomelanin 55-6, 118, 122-3, 302, 320, 375, 456<br />
photoprotection 375, 387, 488<br />
pigmented hairs 53, 163, 313, 452, 458-9, 480, 515<br />
552
placodes 45-7<br />
plateau border 87-9<br />
polyquaternium-10 91-3, 96-7, 107<br />
post-menopausal 463, 477-8, 481<br />
post-yield slope 226-8, 231, 248<br />
pre-menopausal 463, 478-9<br />
progeny 41-2, 72<br />
propellant 417, 419, 428-31, 433-5<br />
protein chains 22, 25, 27, 29, 33, 37, 343, 370<br />
protein denaturation 380-1, 383<br />
protein molecules 378-9, 383<br />
psoriasis drug products 412-13<br />
puberty 48, 392, 399, 410, 460, 464, 469, 476, 479, 482-3, 486<br />
PVP 420-1, 423-5, 437<br />
pyrithione zinc shampoos 405<br />
Index<br />
R<br />
radiation 63, 303, 373-5, 392<br />
red hair 55, 122, 154, 302, 321, 387<br />
reducing agents 106, 138, 158, 164, 167-75, 178, 186-7, 190<br />
reflection 297, 304, 311<br />
laser-light 330<br />
refraction, index of 298-300<br />
relative humidity see RH<br />
relaxed hair 212-13, 318-19<br />
relaxer treatments 181, 211, 233, 317-19<br />
relaxers 181, 183, 207-8, 213, 232, 326<br />
RH (relative humidity) 158-9, 162-3, 225-6, 228, 235-6, 241-3, 254-5,<br />
257-68, 270-80, 285-9, 333-4, 344, 346-50, 352-3, 356<br />
S<br />
salicylic acid 402-3, 407, 412<br />
salts 81, 90, 102, 105, 111, 143, 147<br />
scalp 4, 6, 39-40, 48, 52, 57, 59-61, 64-5, 389-91, 395-8, 400-1, 407-8,<br />
451-2, 480, 529-31<br />
553
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dry 209-10<br />
scalp hair 39, 52, 57, 63, 65, 220, 415, 452, 459, 465, 471-2, 488<br />
sebaceous glands 43, 48-9, 52, 75, 410, 474-6<br />
seborrheic dermatitis 389-92, 394, 396, 398-402, 404, 406-10, 412-<br />
14, 535<br />
sebum 75-6, 87, 207, 308-9, 392, 395, 404, 410, 476-7, 514, 520<br />
shampoos 75-6, 83-5, 87, 89-96, 98, 100-2, 113-14, 142, 152, 403-7,<br />
411-13, 444-5, 496-8, 514, 516-17<br />
shear 101, 242-3, 245, 418-19<br />
shear modulus 160, 236, 238, 242-3, 245, 249, 472<br />
sheath, inner root 41-2, 49, 71, 195-6<br />
shedding 48, 51, 58-9, 61-2, 73<br />
silicone deposition levels 115, 504<br />
silicones 95-8, 100, 104, 110, 113, 135, 150, 155, 303, 420, 445, 504<br />
silver, ammoniacal 10, 12, 14-15, 19<br />
skin 40, 44, 46-50, 53-5, 71-2, 91-2, 95, 104, 220-1, 248-9, 296, 373,<br />
396-7, 410, 535-6<br />
skin diseases 409, 411<br />
solution 11, 28, 77-8, 81, 111, 178, 187, 381, 426, 435, 438<br />
squalene 392, 475-6<br />
stem cells 41-2, 48, 72<br />
stiffness 155, 221, 236, 314, 364, 420, 422-4, 435, 437, 439, 441, 443-4,<br />
471, 473, 489<br />
straight hair 20, 157, 179, 195-6, 198-9, 207, 211-12, 220, 297, 311,<br />
445<br />
straighten 157, 181, 206, 208<br />
straightened hair 211, 213, 511<br />
stress 69, 161, 164-8, 223-4, 226, 231-2, 234, 242, 254-8, 262, 264-8,<br />
270-1, 273, 278-9, 292<br />
oscillating 234, 246<br />
stress relaxation 161, 165, 174-5, 223, 241-5, 247<br />
stress/strain curve 224-6, 228, 233, 245, 250<br />
stress-strain experiments 266-7<br />
structure<br />
coiled-coil 24-5<br />
554
Index<br />
intermediate filament 36, 249<br />
polymer-hair fiber assembly 439<br />
styles 75, 206-8, 291, 416-17, 442, 447, 480<br />
styling 39, 207, 417, 420-1, 425, 434-5, 444, 447<br />
styling polymers 315, 429, 438, 447<br />
advanced 422-4<br />
sulfate 132, 136, 140, 145, 475<br />
sulfide, selenium 402, 406, 412-13<br />
sulfur 402-3, 407<br />
sunlight 1-2, 297, 313, 373-4<br />
surface tension 76-7, 92, 438<br />
surfactants 76-8, 85, 88-94, 101-3, 112-13, 248, 359-60, 434, 491, 535<br />
cationic 99, 104-5, 432, 509<br />
primary 90-1, 95, 105<br />
T<br />
tar, coal 402-3, 407, 413<br />
telogen 49-52, 196-7, 465<br />
telogen effluvium 60-2, 73<br />
telogen hairs 57-8, 61, 65, 197<br />
TEM see Transmission Electron Microscope<br />
temperature 29, 78, 103, 159, 168-9, 208, 230, 232-3, 248, 337-40,<br />
349-51, 376-85, 431, 433, 442<br />
texture analyzer 435-7, 439, 441, 499<br />
thickener 101-2, 133<br />
thioglycolate 169, 173-4, 180-1, 187<br />
tint 131-8<br />
torsion 161-2, 177, 211, 235-6, 471<br />
torsion pendulum 236-9, 243<br />
torsional 224, 236-7, 242<br />
torsional rigidity 223, 236, 238, 451, 472<br />
Transmission Electron Microscope (TEM) 1, 5, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29,<br />
33, 123<br />
TRI (Textile Research Institute) 238-9, 281, 292, 515, 524, 531-2<br />
trichocyte, three-dimensional structure of 37, 249<br />
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<strong>Practical</strong> <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Hair</strong> <strong>Science</strong><br />
triglycerides 75, 392, 475<br />
tryptophan 302, 374-5, 378<br />
tyrosine 123, 198, 201, 302, 374-5, 378<br />
U<br />
UV radiation 194, 373-5<br />
UVA 373-5<br />
UVB 373-5<br />
V<br />
vinyl pyrrolidone see VP<br />
virgin hair 235, 288, 350, 506, 527<br />
VOCs (volatile organic <strong>com</strong>pounds) 426-9, 448<br />
VP (vinyl pyrrolidone) 108, 422-5, 437<br />
homopolymer 422-3<br />
W<br />
water<br />
chlorine 9-10<br />
surface tension of 77, 211<br />
tap 149-50<br />
water adsorption 339-40, 342, 346-8, 361, 365<br />
wet <strong>com</strong>bing results 503-5<br />
wetting 112, 355, 433, 438, 473<br />
white hair 118, 128<br />
wool 32, 34-6, 189, 198, 220, 223-4, 241-2, 247, 250, 338-40, 352,<br />
365, 374-5, 377-8, 387-8<br />
sheep’s 5, 8, 21, 23, 35<br />
Y<br />
yeasts 394-5, 404, 411<br />
Z<br />
zinc pyrithione 100, 404-6, 412-13<br />
556