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Brochure Claim-Edition 2011 - Cosmesi.it

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Products<br />

are<br />

not<br />

enough.


First<br />

come<br />

ideas.


Dr. Virgilio Gianni set up Prodotti Gianni in the<br />

immediate second war period as an organization<br />

buying and selling raw materials for the<br />

Pharmaceutical industries.<br />

In the early 1960’s, the Company diversified <strong>it</strong>s<br />

operation into the Food market, setting up the<br />

second division, and five years later the Life Science<br />

Business Un<strong>it</strong> was opened.<br />

The Cosmetic Business Un<strong>it</strong> was the last<br />

added, joined the others, at the beginning of<br />

1980’s.


C o s m e t i c<br />

our strong points<br />

Appealing product portfolio<br />

Application laboratory<br />

Formulation development and support<br />

Constant up-date on market trends<br />

Cooperation w<strong>it</strong>h high value suppliers<br />

High skilled team<br />

Innovation<br />

Marketing support<br />

The application<br />

laboratory<br />

80m2 of laboratories space<br />

• skin-care lab<br />

• color-cosmetics lab<br />

Raw Material evaluation and selection<br />

for the best application<br />

Formulation support for color-cosmetics,<br />

skin-care, hair-care and toiletries<br />

• formulation design<br />

• sensorial properties evaluation<br />

• stabil<strong>it</strong>y tests<br />

<strong>Claim</strong>s, concepts<br />

and products<br />

Never fail performanceS 8<br />

Paraben-free 10<br />

3D perfectioN 12<br />

100% Organic 14<br />

D5 subst<strong>it</strong>utioN 16<br />

Masstige 18<br />

BB creAM 20<br />

W/W foundatioN 22<br />

No-nano mateRIALS 24<br />

Naturist FINISH 26<br />

Anti-stinging effect 28<br />

Green technology 30<br />

MINIMALISM 32<br />

PEG-free 34<br />

Kansei engineeRING 36<br />

Preservative-free 38<br />

Emulsifier-free 40<br />

Differently greeN 42<br />

Marketing concept and claim ideas<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong>


never fail<br />

Never Fail<br />

PerformancES<br />

When you need to be sure of your product<br />

performances results, you can count on raw<br />

material that never fail and guarantee their<br />

properties and advantages ever.<br />

A solid technology behind is the basis for the<br />

efficacy.<br />

Plastic Powder D400<br />

Micro fine powder made of a polyurethane and silica, w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

particle size 10-15 microns. It is the softest and most<br />

elastic powder among the usual texturizers. It confers a<br />

velvety feel w<strong>it</strong>h soft-focus effect. It turns the texture from a<br />

standard to an excellent one.<br />

It has more elastic<strong>it</strong>y than the trad<strong>it</strong>ional powders, and<br />

provides soft and virtual moisture feeling. They are 50<br />

times softer than nylon powder and 100 times softer than<br />

polymethyl methacrylate. Their truly spherical shape allows<br />

achieving fine spreadabil<strong>it</strong>y and smoothness of the finished<br />

product and concealer abil<strong>it</strong>y to cover skin defect and<br />

pores.<br />

Silicone Elastomers<br />

KSG-210 as emulsifier<br />

Silicone elastomer in dimethicone 6cS. It gives a light and<br />

smooth W/S emulsions.<br />

INCI name: Dimethicone, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15<br />

Crosspolymer<br />

Code: SL00000852<br />

Supplier: Shinetsu<br />

KSG-16 and KSG-1610 as thickener and<br />

texturizer<br />

Silicone elastomer in methyl trimethicone and<br />

dimethicone. Transparent and completely colourless,<br />

FDP/WCP series<br />

Must-have treated pigments w<strong>it</strong>h high consistency of the<br />

shade, no need to match.<br />

Compared to the trad<strong>it</strong>ional treated pigments on the<br />

market the FDP and WCP can be dispersed immediately<br />

(5 minutes for 1 kilogram of bulk product) w<strong>it</strong>hout any premilling<br />

or pre-treatment (pre-dispersion in the lipo phase).<br />

The colour consistency allows you to skip the colour<br />

matching stage at the end of the manufacturing process.<br />

Available in 7 shades: Wh<strong>it</strong>e, Black, Yellow, Red, Blue, Green<br />

and Pink.<br />

Supplier: Jigen International<br />

INCI name: HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Silica<br />

can be used as a texturizer and thickener in anhydrous<br />

Code: NL00001497<br />

products and emulsions.<br />

Supplier: Toshiki Pigment<br />

INCI name (KSG-16): Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl<br />

Dimethicone Crosspolymer<br />

Dermothix-75<br />

Code: SL00000841<br />

INCI name (KSG-1610): Methyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone/<br />

Excellent thickener for SLES-free systems. It creates clear<br />

Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer<br />

stable peroxide gels in combination w<strong>it</strong>h other non-ionic<br />

Code: SL00005590<br />

surfactants. Liquid grade.<br />

Supplier: Shinetsu<br />

INCI name: Disteareth-75 IPDI, Aqua,<br />

Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate<br />

Code: LZ00004839<br />

Supplier: Alzo International<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

8<br />

9


PARABEN-FREE<br />

PARABEN-FREE<br />

The New European regulation has recently<br />

changed on parabens. Following discussion<br />

between European Commission and the<br />

States Members, the following points have<br />

been defin<strong>it</strong>ively adopted: the use of isopropyl,<br />

isobutyl, pentyl, phenyl and benzyl parabens<br />

and their salts is now forbidden.<br />

The use of methyl and ethyl parabens and their<br />

salts is maintained in a lim<strong>it</strong> of 0.4% (acid) for<br />

ester.<br />

The use of propyl and butyl parabens and their<br />

salts is maintained in a lim<strong>it</strong> of 0.19% (acid)<br />

alone or together.<br />

The use of mixtures of esters (methyl, ethyl,<br />

propyl and butyl) is maintained in a lim<strong>it</strong>ed of<br />

0.8% (acid).<br />

So <strong>it</strong> is mandatory to find alternatives to them.<br />

Biosol<br />

Broad spectrum preservative in powder form.<br />

Approved also in Japan. It has to be added at the end<br />

of the emulsification process, dissolved in glycols,<br />

phenoxyethanol or perfumes.<br />

INCI name: o-Cymen-5-ol<br />

Code: JD00001187<br />

Supplier:Jan Dekker<br />

Neofect 301 / Neofect 304<br />

Broad spectrum preservatives in liquid form. Can be used<br />

in a wide range of pH.<br />

INCI name Neofect 301: Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol<br />

INCI name Neofect 304: Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol<br />

Code: JD00005702<br />

Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />

OTZ-10<br />

Global Photo-aging protector - ROS, RCS, RNS<br />

scavenger. Anti UVA, UVB and IR efficacy.<br />

Epidermosil<br />

Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid potentialized by the<br />

silanol technology. Moisturization efficacy.<br />

INCI name: Sodium Hyaluronate, Silanetriol, Aqua, Butylene<br />

Glycol<br />

Code: EX00005642<br />

Supplier: Exsymol<br />

Alistin P5<br />

Peptoid w<strong>it</strong>h global anti-aging and anti-oxydant efficacy.<br />

Firming efficacy on derm-equivalent models.<br />

INCI name: Aqua, Decarboxy Carnosine HCl, Butylene Glycol<br />

Code: EX00005647<br />

Supplier: Exsymol<br />

Chronocyclin<br />

Resynchronization of the cutaneous biorhythm.<br />

INCI name: Glutamylamidoethyl Imidazole, Water<br />

Supplier: Exsymol<br />

Syntran KL219-CG<br />

Excellent co-emulsifier, pigment disperser and viscos<strong>it</strong>y<br />

stabilizer. This product has been designed to improve the<br />

pigment dispersion, gloss, flow and levelling characteristics<br />

of the film.<br />

INCI name: Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer<br />

Code: IR00003541<br />

Supplier: Interpolymer<br />

Syntran PC5100-CG<br />

Skin-firming agent. It tightens and firms the skin, leaving <strong>it</strong><br />

looking and feeling youthful. Superior flexibil<strong>it</strong>y, adhesion,<br />

rub or wear resistance, and ease of removabil<strong>it</strong>y are<br />

add<strong>it</strong>ional attributes. Also su<strong>it</strong>able in hair care formula.<br />

INCI name: Polyacrylate-21, Acrylates/Dimethylaminoethyl<br />

Methacrylate Copolymer<br />

Code: IR00005115<br />

Supplier: Interpolymer<br />

Syntran PC5227-CG<br />

The paraben-free concept can be referred<br />

to alternative preservatives system or to<br />

active ingredients or film formers that do<br />

not contain parabens as preservatives in<br />

their formulation.<br />

INCI name: Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Oxothiazolidine<br />

Code: EX00005643<br />

Supplier: Exsymol<br />

Syntran 5760-CG<br />

Film former. For <strong>it</strong>s water resistance and adhesion properties<br />

ideal for mascara, eye-liners, colour foundations. It carefully<br />

balances properties of adhesion, cohesion, gloss, water,<br />

resistance and film flexibil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />

INCI name: Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate<br />

SPF booster. Lubricious and waxy feel on the skin (not<br />

oily, greasy or tacky). Patent pending is an acrylate grafted<br />

olefin polymer designed specifically to increase the efficacy<br />

of UV absorbers. The use of Syntran PC5227-CG should<br />

perm<strong>it</strong> formulators of sun protection products to<br />

reduce the high cost of active SPF ingredients.<br />

INCI name: Polyacrylate-15, Polyacrylate-17<br />

Copolymer<br />

Code: IR00005117<br />

Code: IR00005126<br />

Supplier: Interpolymer)<br />

Supplier: Interpolymer<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

10<br />

11


3d peRfection<br />

3d perfection<br />

Even in the cosmetic the full HD can be<br />

introduced. Thanks to powders w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />

technological approach to the optical<br />

properties coming from the shape of the<br />

particles or from the chemical compos<strong>it</strong>ion,<br />

you can see a high resolution image w<strong>it</strong>h a 3D<br />

perfection and consistency of the effect from<br />

all angles.<br />

Lipolight OAP/PVA<br />

Optical brightening combining scattering w<strong>it</strong>h fluorescent<br />

light emission. The em<strong>it</strong>ted light illuminates the shadows in<br />

the skin imperfection thereby giving the illusion that they do<br />

not exist. The unique optical effect is due to a combination<br />

of light emission (fluorescence) and scattering of visible<br />

light. The fluorescent compound incorporated into the<br />

polymer absorbs invisible light in the UV region and reem<strong>it</strong>s<br />

that energy as diffused visible light. The em<strong>it</strong>ted light<br />

illuminates the shadowed areas of wrinkles, enlarged pores<br />

and other skin imperfections, thus significantly reducing<br />

their appearance. The diffusion of the reflected incident<br />

visible light increases the total effect.<br />

In a wrinkle or skin imperfection, emission of visible<br />

light illuminates the shadow in the wrinkle and makes <strong>it</strong><br />

“disappear” –like putting a “light bulb” in the wrinkle.<br />

Optically reduces the visible signs of aging.<br />

INCI name: Nylon-12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt,<br />

Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer<br />

Code: LH00002715<br />

Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />

Glass micro-beads that acts as a mirror and as a lens. It<br />

gives a multi-view perfection.<br />

Thanks to the spherical shape, Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e has omni-angle<br />

reflectiv<strong>it</strong>y and shows visibil<strong>it</strong>y from all directions.<br />

INCI name: Glass Beads<br />

Code: PL00005517- PL00005519<br />

Supplier: Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />

Elisphere<br />

Are porous (A and B serie) and non-porous (P serie) silica<br />

spheres, w<strong>it</strong>h average particle size from3 to 20 microns.<br />

Thanks to the shape, Elisphere gives more volume feeling<br />

on the skin and more volume vision due to light rfelection.<br />

Wide oil absorption capac<strong>it</strong>y range (30 to 400ml/100g). It<br />

is a texturizer, absorbs sebum, thickens lipophilic systems<br />

and provides soft-focus effect.<br />

INCI name: Silica<br />

Code: IW00004578-IW00004585<br />

Supplier: Prodotti Gianni<br />

Supplier: Lipo Chemicals<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

12<br />

13


100% ORGANIC<br />

100% Organic<br />

Bioactive range from Codif Recherche-et-<br />

Nature.<br />

In compliance w<strong>it</strong>h the Organic Cosmetic<br />

Standard and Ecocert, the Bioactive<br />

Range has been realized thanks also to<br />

the consultancy of the marine environment<br />

professionals, in accordance w<strong>it</strong>h the following<br />

cr<strong>it</strong>eria: sustainabil<strong>it</strong>y of natural resources,<br />

local economic partnership, preservation<br />

of biomasses, development of cultivation<br />

program, waste treatment, non toxic solvents,<br />

energy management, filtrating gardens.<br />

Bioactive Samphira Oil<br />

“Retinoic-like” activ<strong>it</strong>y w<strong>it</strong>hout irr<strong>it</strong>ation. The sea-retinol.<br />

INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cr<strong>it</strong>hmum Mar<strong>it</strong>imum<br />

Extract<br />

Code: CF00005446<br />

Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />

Bioactive Stoechiol<br />

Reduction of muscular contractions, decrease in<br />

expression lines (visible effect w<strong>it</strong>hin 24 hours)<br />

INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lavandula Stoechas<br />

Extract<br />

Code: CF00005447<br />

Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />

Bioactive Buckwheat Oil<br />

Inhib<strong>it</strong>ion of lipogenesis, anti-puffiness, nourishing and<br />

Bioactive Areaumat Perpetua<br />

Release of beta-endorphins, calming and relaxing, soothing<br />

effect (anti-stinging).<br />

INCI name: Glycerin, Aqua, Helichrysum Italicum Extract<br />

Code: CF00005449<br />

Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />

Bioactive Hydrofiltrat Statice<br />

Anti free-radical activ<strong>it</strong>y. Protection against lipid<br />

peroxidation. Protection and restoration towards UVA and<br />

UVB.<br />

INCI name: Glycerin, Aqua, Limonium Narbonense Flower/<br />

Leaf/Stem Extract<br />

Code: CF00005445<br />

Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />

moisturizing.<br />

INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polygonum<br />

Fagopyrum Seed Extract<br />

Code: CF00005448<br />

Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

14<br />

15


D5 subst<strong>it</strong>ution<br />

D5 subst<strong>it</strong>ution<br />

To find the right cyclomethicone (D5)<br />

alternative, you can follow the silicone way, by<br />

using a low viscos<strong>it</strong>y dimethicone or by using<br />

non-silicone raw materials, which are basically<br />

hydrocarbons w<strong>it</strong>h high volatil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />

KF-96A-2CS<br />

KF-96A-6CS<br />

Silicone Alternative<br />

Low molecular weight dimethicones w<strong>it</strong>h a very low<br />

viscos<strong>it</strong>y. They are the cyclomethicone ideal subst<strong>it</strong>utes for<br />

face and eye contour products.<br />

INCI name KF-96A-2CS: Dimethicone<br />

INCI name KF-96A-6CS: Dimethicone<br />

Code: SL00000831<br />

Supplier: Shinetsu Silicones<br />

Lipo SFS-5<br />

Is a non-silicone subst<strong>it</strong>ute for cyclomethicone D5. This<br />

elegant fluid provides the same performance features as<br />

cyclomethicone D5 w<strong>it</strong>hout the drying and wh<strong>it</strong>ening effect<br />

of volatile silicone fluid. Lipo SFS-5 will also mask the<br />

wh<strong>it</strong>ening effect of antiperspirant salts and stearyl alcohol<br />

residue on dark clothing and skin.<br />

INCI name: Isododecane, Hydrogenated Polydecene,<br />

Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer<br />

Dilinoleate<br />

Code: LH00005624<br />

SiClone SR-5<br />

Volatile silicone replacement. It is indistinguishable from a<br />

standard cyclopentasiloxane, yet <strong>it</strong> is 100% silicone-free.<br />

Beside volatil<strong>it</strong>y, <strong>it</strong> shows good slip and coushion.<br />

INCI name: C13-16 Isoparaffin, C12-14 Isoparaffin,<br />

C13-15 Alkane<br />

Code: XP00005686<br />

Supplier: Presperse<br />

Supplier: Lipo Chemicals<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

16<br />

17


masstige<br />

masstige:<br />

low cost go getting<br />

The word is a blend of the words mass and<br />

prestige and has been described as prestige<br />

for the masses.<br />

Masstige products are defined as “premium<br />

but attainable,” and there are two key tenets:<br />

they are considered luxury or premium<br />

products and they have price points that fill the<br />

gap between mid-market and super premium.<br />

Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />

Free-flowing abil<strong>it</strong>y powder, which can improve the<br />

pigments optical effect w<strong>it</strong>h a transparent tribute to the<br />

formula.<br />

INCI name: Glass Beads<br />

Code: PL00005517- PL00005519<br />

Supplier: Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />

KF-6017<br />

Silicon emulsifier for W/S e W/O system which allows<br />

you to get nice Shinetsu silicone texture w<strong>it</strong>hout affecting<br />

the formula cost. See formulation EM3-1-01, “Value W-S<br />

Microsilk 419<br />

Micro particles that combine the binding properties of<br />

polyethylene w<strong>it</strong>h the lubric<strong>it</strong>y and flow properties of PTFE.<br />

They improve adhesion on skin. Particle size 9-11 microns.<br />

It has an excellent qual<strong>it</strong>y/price balance.<br />

INCI name: Polyethylene, PTFE<br />

Code: MI00005709<br />

Supplier: Micro Powders<br />

Fluid Foundation”. A fluid silicone foundation w<strong>it</strong>h good<br />

spreading, even application and a fresh sensation on skin<br />

at a very low cost (formula cost below 6€/Kg).<br />

INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone<br />

Code: SL00000828<br />

Supplier: Shinetsu Silicones<br />

Micropoly 220L<br />

Micronized polyethylene, w<strong>it</strong>h particle size 8-10 microns,<br />

to be used as binder in pressed powders, to improve wear<br />

resistance, as texturizer and for structuring sticks. It has an<br />

excellent qual<strong>it</strong>y/price balance.<br />

INCI name: Polyethylene<br />

Code: MI00005748<br />

Supplier: Micro Powders<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

18<br />

19


9<br />

BB CREAM<br />

BB CREAM<br />

A new type of cosmetic product known as<br />

Blemish Balm.<br />

In<strong>it</strong>ially used by dermatologists to help postlaser<br />

surgery patients to protect, soothe and<br />

refine highly sens<strong>it</strong>ive skin while providing light<br />

coverage for post laser scars, acne and other<br />

blemishes. Add<strong>it</strong>ionally, BB cream encourages<br />

skin regeneration and helps to maintain youthful<br />

skin. It has skin regenerating properties and<br />

is now also widely used in Asia to provide<br />

natural looking skin coverage. It is considered<br />

from Asian women a wonder cream, which<br />

beautifies while healing: a skincare treatment<br />

product combined w<strong>it</strong>h make-up.<br />

skin while providing light coverage for post laser scars, acne and other blemishes. Add<strong>it</strong>ionally, BB cream<br />

encourages skin regeneration and helps to maintain youthful skin. It has skin regenerating properties and is now<br />

also widely used in Asia to provide natural looking skin coverage. It is considered from Asian women a wonder<br />

cream, which beautifies while healing: a skincare treatment product combined w<strong>it</strong>h make-up.<br />

Here is an example of a BBcream<br />

BB cream<br />

Trade Name INCI Name Function %<br />

A. Nikkomulese WO-CF Plus<br />

(Nikko)<br />

Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9<br />

Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone,<br />

Disteardimonium Hector<strong>it</strong>e<br />

Emulsifier 5,00<br />

KF-96A-6cS (Shin Etsu) Dimethicone Emollient 10,00<br />

Trifat S-308 (Nikko) Triethylhexanoin Emollient 7,00<br />

KSG-16 (Shin Etsu)<br />

Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone<br />

Crosspolymer<br />

Texturizing Agent,<br />

Thickener<br />

KF-56A (Shin Etsu) Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone Emollient 2,50<br />

Plastic Powder D-400HP<br />

(Toshiki)<br />

Octyl Methoxycinnamate<br />

0307 (Kyowa Hakko)<br />

HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Silica,<br />

Dimethicone<br />

1,00<br />

Texturizing Agent 3,00<br />

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate UV-B Filter 7,00<br />

Octocrylene (Kyowa Hakko) Octocrylene UV-B Filter 3,00<br />

Butyl<br />

Methoxydibenzoylmethane<br />

(Kyowa Hakko)<br />

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane UV-A Filter 2,00<br />

Phenoxyethanol (Jan Dekker) Phenoxyethanol Preservative 0,90<br />

d-Delta-Rich-Tocopherols<br />

Conc (Eisai Food & Chemical)<br />

Tocopherol Antioxidant 0,10<br />

B. FDP-C-Wh<strong>it</strong>e (Jigen) Talc, CI 77891, Hydrogen Dimethicone Pigment 5,00<br />

FDP-C-Yellow (Jigen) CI 77891, Talc, CI 77492, Hydrogen Dimethicone Pigment 2,28<br />

FDP-C-Red (Jigen) Talc, CI 77891, CI 77491, Hydrogen Dimethicone Pigment 1,36<br />

FDP-C-Black (Jigen) Talc, CI 77891, CI 77499, Hydrogen Dimethicone Pigment 1,36<br />

C. Deionized Water Aqua to 100<br />

1,3-Butylene Glycol (Kyowa<br />

Hakko)<br />

Butylene Glycol Humectant 5,00<br />

Disodium EDTA (Acef) Disodium EDTA Chelating Agent 0,05<br />

Sodium Hyaluronate 1%<br />

(Nikko)<br />

Sodium Hyaluronate Moisturizing Agent 2,00<br />

20<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

“W/W” Foundation<br />

Oil free formulation for young skin. It gives fresh feeling.<br />

Trad<strong>it</strong>ionally used in the Kabuki trad<strong>it</strong>ional theatre in Japan, to avoid sweating during the performance.<br />

See our formulation n° 28B# 21


W/W FOUNDATION<br />

“W/W”<br />

FOUNDATION<br />

Oil free formulation for young skin. It gives<br />

fresh feeling.<br />

Trad<strong>it</strong>ionally used in the Kabuki theatre in Japan,<br />

to avoid sweating during the performance.<br />

W/W foundation<br />

Trade Name INCI Name Function %<br />

A. Deionized Water Aqua 68,20<br />

Glycerol 99,5% Glycerin Humectant 8,00<br />

1,3-Butylene Glycol (Kyowa Butylene Glycol Humectant 5,00<br />

Hakko)<br />

Dekaben (Jan Dekker)<br />

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben,<br />

Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Propylparaben<br />

Preservative 0,90<br />

Amisoft HS-11 PF (Ajinomoto) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Emulsifier 0,30<br />

B. WCP-2039-Red (Jigen) CI 77891, Talc, CI 77491, Magnesium Stearate,<br />

Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid<br />

WCP-2039-Black (Jigen) CI 77891, Magnesium Stearate, Talc, CI 77499,<br />

Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid<br />

WCP-2039-Wh<strong>it</strong>e (Jigen)<br />

WCP-2039-Yellow (Jigen)<br />

CI 77891, Talc, Magnesium Stearate, Mica,<br />

Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid<br />

CI 77891, Talc, CI 77492, Magnesium Stearate,<br />

Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid<br />

Pigment 2,50<br />

Pigment 2,50<br />

Pigment 2,50<br />

Pigment 2,50<br />

Ecosoft 608 (Micro Powders) Polylactic Acid Texturizing Agent 1,50<br />

Elisphere A812 (Prodotti<br />

Gianni)<br />

Silica<br />

Texturizing Agent,<br />

Soft Focus,<br />

Thickener<br />

Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e P2043SL (Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e) Glass Beads Texturizing Agent 1,00<br />

Microslip 519 (Micro Powders) PTFE Texturizing Agent 3,00<br />

C. Aristoflex AVC (Clariant) Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP<br />

Copolymer<br />

D. Sodium Hyaluronate 1%<br />

(Nikko)<br />

Emulsifier, Rheology<br />

Modifier<br />

0,50<br />

0,60<br />

Sodium Hyaluronate Moisturizing Agent 1,00<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

No nano-material<br />

According to EU Regulation No 1223/2009, all substances in the form of nano-materials must be clearly<br />

indicated in the list of ingredients.<br />

In cosmetics nano-materials are commonly used for sun protection (mineral UV-filters like nano t<strong>it</strong>anium dioxide)<br />

and pigments (i.e. carbon black). To overcome this problem can be used products w<strong>it</strong>h particles larger than 100<br />

nm, and which are demonstrably free of particles smaller than 100 nm.<br />

22<br />

Elistar T-35<br />

Star-shaped lamellar silica w<strong>it</strong>h particle size 4-6 micron, including nano-t<strong>it</strong>anium dioxide among <strong>it</strong>s layers. Nano<br />

23


no-nano<br />

no-nano<br />

materials<br />

According to EU Regulation No 1223/2009, all<br />

substances in the form of nano-materials must<br />

be clearly indicated in the list of ingredients.<br />

In cosmetics nano-materials are commonly<br />

used for sun protection (mineral UV-filters<br />

like nano t<strong>it</strong>anium dioxide) and pigments (i.e.<br />

Elistar T-35<br />

Star-shaped lamellar silica w<strong>it</strong>h particle size 4-6 micron,<br />

including nano-t<strong>it</strong>anium dioxide among <strong>it</strong>s layers. Nano<br />

particles are therefore englobed in the star lamellar<br />

structure. Easy to disperse, <strong>it</strong> is a UV-screen w<strong>it</strong>h very good<br />

texture and transparency. Su<strong>it</strong>able for make-up products in<br />

emulsion or in powder.<br />

INCI name: Silica, T<strong>it</strong>anium Dioxide, Aluminum Hydroxide<br />

Code: IW00004595<br />

Supplier: Prodotti Gianni<br />

Distinctive Ink Black<br />

Chip AQ EU<br />

Carbon Black (CI 77266, D&C Black No.2) in flakes form,<br />

which does not contain particles smaller than 100nm. Easy<br />

to dissolve, for the formulation of mascaras and eyeliners.<br />

It provides darker shades at lower percentage compared<br />

to black iron oxide.<br />

INCI name: CI 77266, Polyester-5, PVP, Laureth-4<br />

Code: DI00005693<br />

Supplier: Resources of Nature<br />

carbon black). To overcome this problem can<br />

be used products w<strong>it</strong>h particles larger than<br />

100 nm, and which are demonstrably free of<br />

particles smaller than 100 nm.<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

24<br />

25


naturist finish<br />

naturist finish<br />

You have always looked for natural finish to get<br />

the fresh younger look.<br />

Now we can go further w<strong>it</strong>h a make-up that<br />

even naturists could accept.<br />

Transparency, comfort and natural origin will<br />

make you feel like having bare skin.<br />

Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />

The ghost powder. Spherical glass beads that gives<br />

incredible free-flowing abil<strong>it</strong>y and <strong>it</strong> doesn’t interfere w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

your colour and effects pigments. It avoid the chalky looks<br />

of the fillers and by acting as a mirror and a lens <strong>it</strong> magnify<br />

the visual effect of the particles all around.<br />

INCI name: Glass Beads<br />

Code: PL00005517- PL00005519<br />

Supplier: Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />

Amihope LL<br />

Ecocert powder coming from coconut fatty acid and plant<br />

derived amino acid. It has high skin affin<strong>it</strong>y and <strong>it</strong> brings<br />

hydration and comfort during and after application. It has a<br />

transparent finish due to the low refractive index.<br />

INCI name: Lauroyl Lysine<br />

Code: AJ00000030<br />

Supplier: Ajinomoto<br />

GP-1 and EB-21<br />

Glutamic acid derivative. Oil gelling agent to formulate<br />

transparent stick for deodorants, lipstick and lip gloss<br />

applications. Also available in mixture w<strong>it</strong>h different<br />

solvents.<br />

INCI name GP-1: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide<br />

Code: AJ00000019<br />

INCI name EB-21: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide<br />

Code: AJ00005547<br />

Supplier: Ajinomoto<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

26<br />

27


anti-stinging<br />

anti-stinging<br />

EFFECT<br />

Stinging has become a major issue in skin care<br />

safety assessment in Asia.<br />

The latest reports show that 30% of consumers<br />

appear to be sens<strong>it</strong>ive to a stinging irr<strong>it</strong>ation<br />

from cosmetic products.<br />

Unlike irr<strong>it</strong>ation, stinging is defined in Japan as<br />

a slight sensory reaction of mild skin irr<strong>it</strong>ation.<br />

It does not involve the typical irr<strong>it</strong>ation symptoms,<br />

such as inflammation, redness, or pain, but is<br />

often described as an uncomfortable sensation<br />

or very light <strong>it</strong>ch.<br />

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate<br />

Water-soluble active derived from licorice roots. Clinically<br />

tested in Japan and approved as a quasi-drug ingredient.<br />

Essential component of most skin care products in Japan.<br />

Reduces irr<strong>it</strong>ation and inflammation. Inhib<strong>it</strong>s histamine<br />

release and hyaluronidase.<br />

Suppresses UV-induced erythema.<br />

It is the best solution for sens<strong>it</strong>ive skin.<br />

New in-vivo test data has been released on the antistinging<br />

effect of the DPG.<br />

INCI name: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate<br />

Code: NL00001371<br />

Supplier: Maruzen Pharmaceuticals<br />

Lecinol S-10<br />

Natural emulsifier w<strong>it</strong>h anti-inflammatory properties.<br />

Effectively reduces irr<strong>it</strong>ation. Decreases irr<strong>it</strong>ation potential of<br />

other surfactants. Enhances anti-inflammatory properties<br />

of oil-soluble actives (e.g. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate). Lecinol<br />

S-10 protects stratum corneum from damage by strong<br />

detergents and improves strength of cell membranes and<br />

makes cells more stable against irr<strong>it</strong>ating substances.<br />

INCI name: Hydrogenated Lec<strong>it</strong>hin<br />

Code: NL00001011<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

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29


Green tech<br />

green<br />

technology<br />

More and more consumers are looking for ecofriendly<br />

products. Now there’s an affordable<br />

way to bring eco-qual<strong>it</strong>ies to personal care.<br />

A perfect blend of science and nature.<br />

High-tech biodegradable powders from<br />

renewable sources, providing the outstanding<br />

benef<strong>it</strong>s of our advanced micronizing<br />

technology.<br />

Ecosoft<br />

A finely micronized powder biodegradable powders from<br />

renewable sources.<br />

Eco-friendly powders designed to provide increased slip as<br />

well as to enhance texture.<br />

Ideally su<strong>it</strong>ed for use as binders in pressed powders<br />

formulations.<br />

INCI name Ecososft 608: Polylactic Acid<br />

Code: MI00005769<br />

INCI name Ecososft 611: Polylactic Acid,Cera Carnauba<br />

Code: MI00005770<br />

Supplier: Micro Powders<br />

Ecoscrub<br />

High molecular weight powders produced from naturallyderived<br />

polymer.<br />

Specifically formulated for your green exfoliating product;<br />

they provide the same high performance of polyethylene<br />

powders from a biodegradable eco-friendly “green”<br />

polymer.<br />

Available in a variety of particle sizes<br />

INCI name: Polylactic Acid<br />

Code: MI00005766- MI00005768<br />

Supplier: Micro Powders<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

30<br />

31


minimalism<br />

minimalism<br />

Following the motto of “less is more”, also<br />

a cosmetic formulation can benef<strong>it</strong> from a<br />

reduced numbers of ingredients. Simplic<strong>it</strong>y<br />

turns into something special, as you keep only<br />

what <strong>it</strong> is essential to get a great formulation.<br />

Beside that, the benef<strong>it</strong> will comes also from<br />

a simplified materials handling and waste<br />

reduction.<br />

Lecinol S-10<br />

Hydrogenated lec<strong>it</strong>hin derived from soya.<br />

Contains 25-30% of Phosphatidyl Choline.<br />

Natural emulsifier w<strong>it</strong>h anti-inflammatory properties.<br />

Effectively reduces irr<strong>it</strong>ation. Decreases irr<strong>it</strong>ation potential of<br />

other surfactants. Enhances anti-inflammatory properties<br />

of oil-soluble actives (e.g. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate).<br />

INCI name: Hydrogenated Lec<strong>it</strong>hin<br />

Code: NL00001011<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

PUHP Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride series<br />

Multifunctional product.<br />

PUHP can works as adherence agent, texturizer, softfocus,<br />

lubricant, mattifying, spreading, pick-up enhancer,<br />

helps compaction, long wearing.<br />

A product w<strong>it</strong>h high versatil<strong>it</strong>y (wide particle size range):<br />

Opaque to transparent and mat to sparkling finish.<br />

INCI name: Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride<br />

Code: SG00000001-SG00000014<br />

Supplier: Saint-Gobain Ceramics<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

32<br />

33


peg-free<br />

peg-free<br />

The natural oriented consumer is more<br />

conscious of what kind of add<strong>it</strong>ives can be<br />

added to a cosmetic and consider them as<br />

“contaminants”, so the research of cosmetic<br />

free-from add<strong>it</strong>ives is a constant for every<br />

market segment and sales channel, from the<br />

Pharmacy to the Department Store ones.<br />

Emulprogress 57<br />

Hydrophilic PEG-free natural emulsifier for the formulation<br />

of O/W emulsions. Easy to use, <strong>it</strong> can emulsify any kind<br />

of oil regardless polar<strong>it</strong>y and <strong>it</strong> does not require the use of<br />

rheology modifier. It is characterized by a nice texture.<br />

INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate,<br />

Polyglyceryl-6 Tristearate, Hydroxypropyl Guar<br />

Code: PG00005700<br />

Supplier: Prodotti Gianni<br />

Nikkomulese 41<br />

Electrolyte-tolerant polymeric emulsifier / thickener for<br />

O/W systems. Prepares emulsions / gels w<strong>it</strong>h unique fresh<br />

feel and “cushion-like” (bouncing) texture.Easily forms<br />

liposomes w<strong>it</strong>h almost any water-soluble actives.<br />

INCI name: Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate,<br />

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate<br />

Code: NL00001102<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

Nikkomulese LC-EF<br />

“Second skin” concept: mimics and recreates natural skin<br />

barrier by forming unique Oil-in-Liquid Crystal-in-Water (O/<br />

LC/W) emulsions. Long lasting moisturization. Skin barrier<br />

improvement. Nikkomulese LC-EF is a natural compos<strong>it</strong>e<br />

emulsifier which shows excellent effect protecting the<br />

skin and improving the cond<strong>it</strong>ion of the skin, by creating<br />

a lamellar liquid crystal structure in the intercellular lipids of<br />

the Stratum Corneum, and therefore can be used as the<br />

best O/W emulsifier in moisturizing skin care series.<br />

INCI name: Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Phytosterol,<br />

Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Caprylic/Capric<br />

Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lec<strong>it</strong>hin, Tocopherol<br />

Code: NL00005710<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

34<br />

35


kansei<br />

kansei<br />

engineering<br />

Kansei is a science born in Japan that evaluates<br />

human sensory reaction to products by<br />

scientifically measuring brain activ<strong>it</strong>y, physical<br />

reaction of body (sweating, temperature<br />

change, shivers) etc. Kansei is to help develop<br />

products that would be pleasant a unique<br />

experience for consumers.<br />

Nikkomulese WO<br />

Extremely stable silicone-type emulsifier and hector<strong>it</strong>e<br />

derivative for water-in-silicone or silicone-rich W/O systems.<br />

It forms a thixotropic oil gel around water droplets. It makes<br />

very stable emulsions w<strong>it</strong>h extraordinary texture: light,<br />

elegant and glossy. It combines penetrating and waterproof<br />

properties of water-in-oil systems w<strong>it</strong>h light (not<br />

tacky) feel. Nikkomulese WO creates thixotropic emulsions<br />

w<strong>it</strong>h remarkable stabil<strong>it</strong>y and spreadabil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />

INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2<br />

Isostearate, Disteardimonium Hector<strong>it</strong>e<br />

Code: NL00001105<br />

Nikkomulese 41<br />

Electrolyte-tolerant polymeric emulsifier / thickener for<br />

O/W systems. Prepares emulsions / gels w<strong>it</strong>h unique fresh<br />

feel and “cushion-like” (bouncing) texture.Easily forms<br />

liposomes w<strong>it</strong>h almost any water-soluble actives.<br />

INCI name: Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate,<br />

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate<br />

Code: NL00001102<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

Nikkomulese LH<br />

Emulsifying and thickening properties of Nikkomulese<br />

LH are based on interaction (micelles) between a<br />

hydrophobically modified polymer, surfactant and modified<br />

hydrogenated lec<strong>it</strong>hin.<br />

INCI name: Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lec<strong>it</strong>hin, Hydroxypropyl<br />

Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Squalane, Sodium Methyl<br />

Stearoyl Taurate<br />

Code: NL00004326<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

The idea is to give consumers not just good<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

and effective product, but to provide the whole<br />

complex experience of application, which will<br />

make consumer come back to this product<br />

again: anything that will make consumers<br />

remember the <strong>it</strong>em “by their skin”.<br />

Nikkomulese series hold the sensory<br />

properties that make the skin remember. They<br />

are Emulsifiers Based on Three-Dimensional<br />

Network Structures.<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

36<br />

37


PRESERVAtive-FREE<br />

PRESERVATIVE<br />

FREE<br />

By defin<strong>it</strong>ion “Preservative” is a molecule w<strong>it</strong>h<br />

anti-microbial activ<strong>it</strong>y listed in Annex V of the<br />

New Cosmetic Regulation (REGULATION (EC)<br />

No 1223/2009).<br />

The preservative-free concept can be referred<br />

both to molecule characterized by an antimicrobial<br />

activ<strong>it</strong>y but not listed in the Annex V or<br />

to ingredients that do not contain preservatives<br />

in their formulation.<br />

Neofect 403<br />

Humectant in liquid form w<strong>it</strong>h broad spectrum anti microbial<br />

activ<strong>it</strong>y. Can be used as an auxiliary preservative.<br />

INCI name: Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate,<br />

Ethylhexylglycerin<br />

Code: JD00005703<br />

Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />

Nikkoguard 88<br />

Ingredient in liquid form w<strong>it</strong>h broad spectrum of anti<br />

microbial activ<strong>it</strong>y. Can be used as an auxiliary preservative,<br />

particularly indicated for emulsions.<br />

INCI name: Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin<br />

Code: NL00005657<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

Nikkoguard DL<br />

PEG-free emulsifier w<strong>it</strong>h a remarkable anti microbial activ<strong>it</strong>y.<br />

It has a natural origin.<br />

INCI name: Glyceryl Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate,<br />

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate<br />

Code: NL00001027<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

Glutrapeptide<br />

2nd generation of neuroactive, optimized bio availabil<strong>it</strong>y,<br />

face (anti-aging) and body care. Lipolytic efficacy.<br />

INCI name: Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Pyroglutamylamidoethyl<br />

Indole<br />

Code: EX00005649<br />

Supplier: Exsymol<br />

Algisium SP<br />

Multiactive. Skin restructuring and rejuvenation agent<br />

thanks to Silicium affin<strong>it</strong>y as a dermal structural component.<br />

INCI name: Methylsilanol Mannuronate<br />

Supplier: Exsymol<br />

Ascorbosilane SP<br />

Enhanced V<strong>it</strong>amin C w<strong>it</strong>h smart delivery silicium technology.<br />

Can acts as cutaneous detoxifier. anti-free radical,<br />

increased cell’s membrane resistance against free radicals.<br />

It shows optimal bioavailabil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />

INCI name: Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate<br />

Supplier: Exsymol<br />

Theophyllisilane SP<br />

Enhanced xanthic base w<strong>it</strong>h smart delivery silicium<br />

technology. Synergistic activ<strong>it</strong>y of silicium and acefylline.<br />

Microcirculation stimulation, release of fatty acid, oedema,<br />

puffy eyes and dark circles. Optimal bioavailibil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />

INCI name: Methylsilanol Carboxymethyl Theophylline<br />

Alginate, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer<br />

Supplier: Exsymol<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

38<br />

39


emulsifier-FREE<br />

emulsifier<br />

FREE<br />

Typically an emulsifier-free system is required<br />

for very sens<strong>it</strong>ive skin like atopic skin or babycare<br />

line.<br />

It is obtained by forming a oil gel/ water gel<br />

system.<br />

Usually a gelling agent w<strong>it</strong>h excellent structuring<br />

properties is required.<br />

Sylvaclear WF1500V<br />

Vegetable origin low molecular weight polymer (97%<br />

represented by Bio-carbon). Can be used as a gelling<br />

agent for high polar<strong>it</strong>y oils.<br />

Ideal for water and glycol based sticks and emulsions.<br />

INCI name: Polyamide-4<br />

Code: JD00005481<br />

Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />

Sylvaclear PA1200V<br />

Vegetable origin low molecular weight polymer (97%<br />

represented by Bio-carbon). Can be used as a gelling<br />

agent for medium polar<strong>it</strong>y oils. Water dispersible.<br />

Su<strong>it</strong>able for stick, anhydrous gel and emulsions.<br />

INCI name: Polyamide-3<br />

Code: JD00005161<br />

Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />

Sylvaclear C75V<br />

Vegetable origin low molecular weight polymer (97%<br />

represented by Bio-carbon). Can be used as a gelling<br />

agent for low polar<strong>it</strong>y oils. Has the lowest softening point<br />

(75-85°C). Water dispersible.<br />

Su<strong>it</strong>able for stick, anhydrous gel and emulsions.<br />

INCI name: Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/<br />

Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer<br />

Code: JD00005159<br />

Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

40<br />

41


Differently green<br />

differently<br />

green<br />

The number of Companies who are more and<br />

more conscious about environment protection<br />

is increasing.<br />

They are all comm<strong>it</strong>ted to reduce their impact<br />

on global environment.<br />

There are many different ways to approach this<br />

problem and all of them are efficient.<br />

PUHP Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride<br />

The Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride manufactured by Saint-Gobain used<br />

clean energy. The plant s<strong>it</strong>e is closed to the Niagara Falls<br />

and <strong>it</strong> take advantage of waterfall energy.<br />

The production has an Environmental Certification.<br />

INCI name: Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride<br />

Code: SG00000001-SG00000014<br />

Supplier: Saint-Gobain Ceramics<br />

GS Series<br />

Green Sustainable Series: alternative to petroleum-based<br />

feedstocks w<strong>it</strong>h plant-derived materials used for esters.<br />

They are produced following the new rules to reduce the<br />

dependence on lim<strong>it</strong>ed resources.<br />

Nikko Chemicals is willing to reduce their environmental<br />

impact by 2% (energy intens<strong>it</strong>y per un<strong>it</strong> of production when<br />

using electrical power, heavy oil and wastes).<br />

INCI name: Methylheptyl Laurate, Methylheptyl Myristate,<br />

Methylheptyl Plam<strong>it</strong>ate, Methylheptyl Isostearate<br />

Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

42<br />

43


C o s m e t i c<br />

ContactS page<br />

Customer Service<br />

Tel. +39 02 5097 200<br />

cosmetico@prodottigianni.com<br />

Sales manager<br />

Nadia Brenna<br />

nbrenna@prodottigianni.com<br />

Cosmetic Marketing<br />

Paola Gen<strong>it</strong>rini<br />

pgen<strong>it</strong>rini@prodottigianni.com<br />

Business un<strong>it</strong> manager<br />

Luigi Bondurri<br />

lbondurri@prodottigianni.com<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

Cosmetic web s<strong>it</strong>e<br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong>


www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong>


www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />

Via Quintiliano, 30 - 20138 MILANO (ITALY)<br />

Tel. +39 02 5097 200 - Fax +39 02 5097 266<br />

www.prodottigianni.com

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