Brochure Claim-Edition 2011 - Cosmesi.it
Brochure Claim-Edition 2011 - Cosmesi.it
Brochure Claim-Edition 2011 - Cosmesi.it
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Products<br />
are<br />
not<br />
enough.
First<br />
come<br />
ideas.
Dr. Virgilio Gianni set up Prodotti Gianni in the<br />
immediate second war period as an organization<br />
buying and selling raw materials for the<br />
Pharmaceutical industries.<br />
In the early 1960’s, the Company diversified <strong>it</strong>s<br />
operation into the Food market, setting up the<br />
second division, and five years later the Life Science<br />
Business Un<strong>it</strong> was opened.<br />
The Cosmetic Business Un<strong>it</strong> was the last<br />
added, joined the others, at the beginning of<br />
1980’s.
C o s m e t i c<br />
our strong points<br />
Appealing product portfolio<br />
Application laboratory<br />
Formulation development and support<br />
Constant up-date on market trends<br />
Cooperation w<strong>it</strong>h high value suppliers<br />
High skilled team<br />
Innovation<br />
Marketing support<br />
The application<br />
laboratory<br />
80m2 of laboratories space<br />
• skin-care lab<br />
• color-cosmetics lab<br />
Raw Material evaluation and selection<br />
for the best application<br />
Formulation support for color-cosmetics,<br />
skin-care, hair-care and toiletries<br />
• formulation design<br />
• sensorial properties evaluation<br />
• stabil<strong>it</strong>y tests<br />
<strong>Claim</strong>s, concepts<br />
and products<br />
Never fail performanceS 8<br />
Paraben-free 10<br />
3D perfectioN 12<br />
100% Organic 14<br />
D5 subst<strong>it</strong>utioN 16<br />
Masstige 18<br />
BB creAM 20<br />
W/W foundatioN 22<br />
No-nano mateRIALS 24<br />
Naturist FINISH 26<br />
Anti-stinging effect 28<br />
Green technology 30<br />
MINIMALISM 32<br />
PEG-free 34<br />
Kansei engineeRING 36<br />
Preservative-free 38<br />
Emulsifier-free 40<br />
Differently greeN 42<br />
Marketing concept and claim ideas<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong>
never fail<br />
Never Fail<br />
PerformancES<br />
When you need to be sure of your product<br />
performances results, you can count on raw<br />
material that never fail and guarantee their<br />
properties and advantages ever.<br />
A solid technology behind is the basis for the<br />
efficacy.<br />
Plastic Powder D400<br />
Micro fine powder made of a polyurethane and silica, w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
particle size 10-15 microns. It is the softest and most<br />
elastic powder among the usual texturizers. It confers a<br />
velvety feel w<strong>it</strong>h soft-focus effect. It turns the texture from a<br />
standard to an excellent one.<br />
It has more elastic<strong>it</strong>y than the trad<strong>it</strong>ional powders, and<br />
provides soft and virtual moisture feeling. They are 50<br />
times softer than nylon powder and 100 times softer than<br />
polymethyl methacrylate. Their truly spherical shape allows<br />
achieving fine spreadabil<strong>it</strong>y and smoothness of the finished<br />
product and concealer abil<strong>it</strong>y to cover skin defect and<br />
pores.<br />
Silicone Elastomers<br />
KSG-210 as emulsifier<br />
Silicone elastomer in dimethicone 6cS. It gives a light and<br />
smooth W/S emulsions.<br />
INCI name: Dimethicone, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15<br />
Crosspolymer<br />
Code: SL00000852<br />
Supplier: Shinetsu<br />
KSG-16 and KSG-1610 as thickener and<br />
texturizer<br />
Silicone elastomer in methyl trimethicone and<br />
dimethicone. Transparent and completely colourless,<br />
FDP/WCP series<br />
Must-have treated pigments w<strong>it</strong>h high consistency of the<br />
shade, no need to match.<br />
Compared to the trad<strong>it</strong>ional treated pigments on the<br />
market the FDP and WCP can be dispersed immediately<br />
(5 minutes for 1 kilogram of bulk product) w<strong>it</strong>hout any premilling<br />
or pre-treatment (pre-dispersion in the lipo phase).<br />
The colour consistency allows you to skip the colour<br />
matching stage at the end of the manufacturing process.<br />
Available in 7 shades: Wh<strong>it</strong>e, Black, Yellow, Red, Blue, Green<br />
and Pink.<br />
Supplier: Jigen International<br />
INCI name: HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Silica<br />
can be used as a texturizer and thickener in anhydrous<br />
Code: NL00001497<br />
products and emulsions.<br />
Supplier: Toshiki Pigment<br />
INCI name (KSG-16): Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl<br />
Dimethicone Crosspolymer<br />
Dermothix-75<br />
Code: SL00000841<br />
INCI name (KSG-1610): Methyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone/<br />
Excellent thickener for SLES-free systems. It creates clear<br />
Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer<br />
stable peroxide gels in combination w<strong>it</strong>h other non-ionic<br />
Code: SL00005590<br />
surfactants. Liquid grade.<br />
Supplier: Shinetsu<br />
INCI name: Disteareth-75 IPDI, Aqua,<br />
Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate<br />
Code: LZ00004839<br />
Supplier: Alzo International<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
8<br />
9
PARABEN-FREE<br />
PARABEN-FREE<br />
The New European regulation has recently<br />
changed on parabens. Following discussion<br />
between European Commission and the<br />
States Members, the following points have<br />
been defin<strong>it</strong>ively adopted: the use of isopropyl,<br />
isobutyl, pentyl, phenyl and benzyl parabens<br />
and their salts is now forbidden.<br />
The use of methyl and ethyl parabens and their<br />
salts is maintained in a lim<strong>it</strong> of 0.4% (acid) for<br />
ester.<br />
The use of propyl and butyl parabens and their<br />
salts is maintained in a lim<strong>it</strong> of 0.19% (acid)<br />
alone or together.<br />
The use of mixtures of esters (methyl, ethyl,<br />
propyl and butyl) is maintained in a lim<strong>it</strong>ed of<br />
0.8% (acid).<br />
So <strong>it</strong> is mandatory to find alternatives to them.<br />
Biosol<br />
Broad spectrum preservative in powder form.<br />
Approved also in Japan. It has to be added at the end<br />
of the emulsification process, dissolved in glycols,<br />
phenoxyethanol or perfumes.<br />
INCI name: o-Cymen-5-ol<br />
Code: JD00001187<br />
Supplier:Jan Dekker<br />
Neofect 301 / Neofect 304<br />
Broad spectrum preservatives in liquid form. Can be used<br />
in a wide range of pH.<br />
INCI name Neofect 301: Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol<br />
INCI name Neofect 304: Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol<br />
Code: JD00005702<br />
Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />
OTZ-10<br />
Global Photo-aging protector - ROS, RCS, RNS<br />
scavenger. Anti UVA, UVB and IR efficacy.<br />
Epidermosil<br />
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid potentialized by the<br />
silanol technology. Moisturization efficacy.<br />
INCI name: Sodium Hyaluronate, Silanetriol, Aqua, Butylene<br />
Glycol<br />
Code: EX00005642<br />
Supplier: Exsymol<br />
Alistin P5<br />
Peptoid w<strong>it</strong>h global anti-aging and anti-oxydant efficacy.<br />
Firming efficacy on derm-equivalent models.<br />
INCI name: Aqua, Decarboxy Carnosine HCl, Butylene Glycol<br />
Code: EX00005647<br />
Supplier: Exsymol<br />
Chronocyclin<br />
Resynchronization of the cutaneous biorhythm.<br />
INCI name: Glutamylamidoethyl Imidazole, Water<br />
Supplier: Exsymol<br />
Syntran KL219-CG<br />
Excellent co-emulsifier, pigment disperser and viscos<strong>it</strong>y<br />
stabilizer. This product has been designed to improve the<br />
pigment dispersion, gloss, flow and levelling characteristics<br />
of the film.<br />
INCI name: Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer<br />
Code: IR00003541<br />
Supplier: Interpolymer<br />
Syntran PC5100-CG<br />
Skin-firming agent. It tightens and firms the skin, leaving <strong>it</strong><br />
looking and feeling youthful. Superior flexibil<strong>it</strong>y, adhesion,<br />
rub or wear resistance, and ease of removabil<strong>it</strong>y are<br />
add<strong>it</strong>ional attributes. Also su<strong>it</strong>able in hair care formula.<br />
INCI name: Polyacrylate-21, Acrylates/Dimethylaminoethyl<br />
Methacrylate Copolymer<br />
Code: IR00005115<br />
Supplier: Interpolymer<br />
Syntran PC5227-CG<br />
The paraben-free concept can be referred<br />
to alternative preservatives system or to<br />
active ingredients or film formers that do<br />
not contain parabens as preservatives in<br />
their formulation.<br />
INCI name: Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Oxothiazolidine<br />
Code: EX00005643<br />
Supplier: Exsymol<br />
Syntran 5760-CG<br />
Film former. For <strong>it</strong>s water resistance and adhesion properties<br />
ideal for mascara, eye-liners, colour foundations. It carefully<br />
balances properties of adhesion, cohesion, gloss, water,<br />
resistance and film flexibil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />
INCI name: Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate<br />
SPF booster. Lubricious and waxy feel on the skin (not<br />
oily, greasy or tacky). Patent pending is an acrylate grafted<br />
olefin polymer designed specifically to increase the efficacy<br />
of UV absorbers. The use of Syntran PC5227-CG should<br />
perm<strong>it</strong> formulators of sun protection products to<br />
reduce the high cost of active SPF ingredients.<br />
INCI name: Polyacrylate-15, Polyacrylate-17<br />
Copolymer<br />
Code: IR00005117<br />
Code: IR00005126<br />
Supplier: Interpolymer)<br />
Supplier: Interpolymer<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
10<br />
11
3d peRfection<br />
3d perfection<br />
Even in the cosmetic the full HD can be<br />
introduced. Thanks to powders w<strong>it</strong>h a<br />
technological approach to the optical<br />
properties coming from the shape of the<br />
particles or from the chemical compos<strong>it</strong>ion,<br />
you can see a high resolution image w<strong>it</strong>h a 3D<br />
perfection and consistency of the effect from<br />
all angles.<br />
Lipolight OAP/PVA<br />
Optical brightening combining scattering w<strong>it</strong>h fluorescent<br />
light emission. The em<strong>it</strong>ted light illuminates the shadows in<br />
the skin imperfection thereby giving the illusion that they do<br />
not exist. The unique optical effect is due to a combination<br />
of light emission (fluorescence) and scattering of visible<br />
light. The fluorescent compound incorporated into the<br />
polymer absorbs invisible light in the UV region and reem<strong>it</strong>s<br />
that energy as diffused visible light. The em<strong>it</strong>ted light<br />
illuminates the shadowed areas of wrinkles, enlarged pores<br />
and other skin imperfections, thus significantly reducing<br />
their appearance. The diffusion of the reflected incident<br />
visible light increases the total effect.<br />
In a wrinkle or skin imperfection, emission of visible<br />
light illuminates the shadow in the wrinkle and makes <strong>it</strong><br />
“disappear” –like putting a “light bulb” in the wrinkle.<br />
Optically reduces the visible signs of aging.<br />
INCI name: Nylon-12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt,<br />
Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer<br />
Code: LH00002715<br />
Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />
Glass micro-beads that acts as a mirror and as a lens. It<br />
gives a multi-view perfection.<br />
Thanks to the spherical shape, Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e has omni-angle<br />
reflectiv<strong>it</strong>y and shows visibil<strong>it</strong>y from all directions.<br />
INCI name: Glass Beads<br />
Code: PL00005517- PL00005519<br />
Supplier: Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />
Elisphere<br />
Are porous (A and B serie) and non-porous (P serie) silica<br />
spheres, w<strong>it</strong>h average particle size from3 to 20 microns.<br />
Thanks to the shape, Elisphere gives more volume feeling<br />
on the skin and more volume vision due to light rfelection.<br />
Wide oil absorption capac<strong>it</strong>y range (30 to 400ml/100g). It<br />
is a texturizer, absorbs sebum, thickens lipophilic systems<br />
and provides soft-focus effect.<br />
INCI name: Silica<br />
Code: IW00004578-IW00004585<br />
Supplier: Prodotti Gianni<br />
Supplier: Lipo Chemicals<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
12<br />
13
100% ORGANIC<br />
100% Organic<br />
Bioactive range from Codif Recherche-et-<br />
Nature.<br />
In compliance w<strong>it</strong>h the Organic Cosmetic<br />
Standard and Ecocert, the Bioactive<br />
Range has been realized thanks also to<br />
the consultancy of the marine environment<br />
professionals, in accordance w<strong>it</strong>h the following<br />
cr<strong>it</strong>eria: sustainabil<strong>it</strong>y of natural resources,<br />
local economic partnership, preservation<br />
of biomasses, development of cultivation<br />
program, waste treatment, non toxic solvents,<br />
energy management, filtrating gardens.<br />
Bioactive Samphira Oil<br />
“Retinoic-like” activ<strong>it</strong>y w<strong>it</strong>hout irr<strong>it</strong>ation. The sea-retinol.<br />
INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cr<strong>it</strong>hmum Mar<strong>it</strong>imum<br />
Extract<br />
Code: CF00005446<br />
Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />
Bioactive Stoechiol<br />
Reduction of muscular contractions, decrease in<br />
expression lines (visible effect w<strong>it</strong>hin 24 hours)<br />
INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lavandula Stoechas<br />
Extract<br />
Code: CF00005447<br />
Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />
Bioactive Buckwheat Oil<br />
Inhib<strong>it</strong>ion of lipogenesis, anti-puffiness, nourishing and<br />
Bioactive Areaumat Perpetua<br />
Release of beta-endorphins, calming and relaxing, soothing<br />
effect (anti-stinging).<br />
INCI name: Glycerin, Aqua, Helichrysum Italicum Extract<br />
Code: CF00005449<br />
Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />
Bioactive Hydrofiltrat Statice<br />
Anti free-radical activ<strong>it</strong>y. Protection against lipid<br />
peroxidation. Protection and restoration towards UVA and<br />
UVB.<br />
INCI name: Glycerin, Aqua, Limonium Narbonense Flower/<br />
Leaf/Stem Extract<br />
Code: CF00005445<br />
Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />
moisturizing.<br />
INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polygonum<br />
Fagopyrum Seed Extract<br />
Code: CF00005448<br />
Supplier: Codif Recherche-et-Nature<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
14<br />
15
D5 subst<strong>it</strong>ution<br />
D5 subst<strong>it</strong>ution<br />
To find the right cyclomethicone (D5)<br />
alternative, you can follow the silicone way, by<br />
using a low viscos<strong>it</strong>y dimethicone or by using<br />
non-silicone raw materials, which are basically<br />
hydrocarbons w<strong>it</strong>h high volatil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />
KF-96A-2CS<br />
KF-96A-6CS<br />
Silicone Alternative<br />
Low molecular weight dimethicones w<strong>it</strong>h a very low<br />
viscos<strong>it</strong>y. They are the cyclomethicone ideal subst<strong>it</strong>utes for<br />
face and eye contour products.<br />
INCI name KF-96A-2CS: Dimethicone<br />
INCI name KF-96A-6CS: Dimethicone<br />
Code: SL00000831<br />
Supplier: Shinetsu Silicones<br />
Lipo SFS-5<br />
Is a non-silicone subst<strong>it</strong>ute for cyclomethicone D5. This<br />
elegant fluid provides the same performance features as<br />
cyclomethicone D5 w<strong>it</strong>hout the drying and wh<strong>it</strong>ening effect<br />
of volatile silicone fluid. Lipo SFS-5 will also mask the<br />
wh<strong>it</strong>ening effect of antiperspirant salts and stearyl alcohol<br />
residue on dark clothing and skin.<br />
INCI name: Isododecane, Hydrogenated Polydecene,<br />
Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer<br />
Dilinoleate<br />
Code: LH00005624<br />
SiClone SR-5<br />
Volatile silicone replacement. It is indistinguishable from a<br />
standard cyclopentasiloxane, yet <strong>it</strong> is 100% silicone-free.<br />
Beside volatil<strong>it</strong>y, <strong>it</strong> shows good slip and coushion.<br />
INCI name: C13-16 Isoparaffin, C12-14 Isoparaffin,<br />
C13-15 Alkane<br />
Code: XP00005686<br />
Supplier: Presperse<br />
Supplier: Lipo Chemicals<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
16<br />
17
masstige<br />
masstige:<br />
low cost go getting<br />
The word is a blend of the words mass and<br />
prestige and has been described as prestige<br />
for the masses.<br />
Masstige products are defined as “premium<br />
but attainable,” and there are two key tenets:<br />
they are considered luxury or premium<br />
products and they have price points that fill the<br />
gap between mid-market and super premium.<br />
Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />
Free-flowing abil<strong>it</strong>y powder, which can improve the<br />
pigments optical effect w<strong>it</strong>h a transparent tribute to the<br />
formula.<br />
INCI name: Glass Beads<br />
Code: PL00005517- PL00005519<br />
Supplier: Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />
KF-6017<br />
Silicon emulsifier for W/S e W/O system which allows<br />
you to get nice Shinetsu silicone texture w<strong>it</strong>hout affecting<br />
the formula cost. See formulation EM3-1-01, “Value W-S<br />
Microsilk 419<br />
Micro particles that combine the binding properties of<br />
polyethylene w<strong>it</strong>h the lubric<strong>it</strong>y and flow properties of PTFE.<br />
They improve adhesion on skin. Particle size 9-11 microns.<br />
It has an excellent qual<strong>it</strong>y/price balance.<br />
INCI name: Polyethylene, PTFE<br />
Code: MI00005709<br />
Supplier: Micro Powders<br />
Fluid Foundation”. A fluid silicone foundation w<strong>it</strong>h good<br />
spreading, even application and a fresh sensation on skin<br />
at a very low cost (formula cost below 6€/Kg).<br />
INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone<br />
Code: SL00000828<br />
Supplier: Shinetsu Silicones<br />
Micropoly 220L<br />
Micronized polyethylene, w<strong>it</strong>h particle size 8-10 microns,<br />
to be used as binder in pressed powders, to improve wear<br />
resistance, as texturizer and for structuring sticks. It has an<br />
excellent qual<strong>it</strong>y/price balance.<br />
INCI name: Polyethylene<br />
Code: MI00005748<br />
Supplier: Micro Powders<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
18<br />
19
9<br />
BB CREAM<br />
BB CREAM<br />
A new type of cosmetic product known as<br />
Blemish Balm.<br />
In<strong>it</strong>ially used by dermatologists to help postlaser<br />
surgery patients to protect, soothe and<br />
refine highly sens<strong>it</strong>ive skin while providing light<br />
coverage for post laser scars, acne and other<br />
blemishes. Add<strong>it</strong>ionally, BB cream encourages<br />
skin regeneration and helps to maintain youthful<br />
skin. It has skin regenerating properties and<br />
is now also widely used in Asia to provide<br />
natural looking skin coverage. It is considered<br />
from Asian women a wonder cream, which<br />
beautifies while healing: a skincare treatment<br />
product combined w<strong>it</strong>h make-up.<br />
skin while providing light coverage for post laser scars, acne and other blemishes. Add<strong>it</strong>ionally, BB cream<br />
encourages skin regeneration and helps to maintain youthful skin. It has skin regenerating properties and is now<br />
also widely used in Asia to provide natural looking skin coverage. It is considered from Asian women a wonder<br />
cream, which beautifies while healing: a skincare treatment product combined w<strong>it</strong>h make-up.<br />
Here is an example of a BBcream<br />
BB cream<br />
Trade Name INCI Name Function %<br />
A. Nikkomulese WO-CF Plus<br />
(Nikko)<br />
Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9<br />
Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone,<br />
Disteardimonium Hector<strong>it</strong>e<br />
Emulsifier 5,00<br />
KF-96A-6cS (Shin Etsu) Dimethicone Emollient 10,00<br />
Trifat S-308 (Nikko) Triethylhexanoin Emollient 7,00<br />
KSG-16 (Shin Etsu)<br />
Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone<br />
Crosspolymer<br />
Texturizing Agent,<br />
Thickener<br />
KF-56A (Shin Etsu) Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone Emollient 2,50<br />
Plastic Powder D-400HP<br />
(Toshiki)<br />
Octyl Methoxycinnamate<br />
0307 (Kyowa Hakko)<br />
HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Silica,<br />
Dimethicone<br />
1,00<br />
Texturizing Agent 3,00<br />
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate UV-B Filter 7,00<br />
Octocrylene (Kyowa Hakko) Octocrylene UV-B Filter 3,00<br />
Butyl<br />
Methoxydibenzoylmethane<br />
(Kyowa Hakko)<br />
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane UV-A Filter 2,00<br />
Phenoxyethanol (Jan Dekker) Phenoxyethanol Preservative 0,90<br />
d-Delta-Rich-Tocopherols<br />
Conc (Eisai Food & Chemical)<br />
Tocopherol Antioxidant 0,10<br />
B. FDP-C-Wh<strong>it</strong>e (Jigen) Talc, CI 77891, Hydrogen Dimethicone Pigment 5,00<br />
FDP-C-Yellow (Jigen) CI 77891, Talc, CI 77492, Hydrogen Dimethicone Pigment 2,28<br />
FDP-C-Red (Jigen) Talc, CI 77891, CI 77491, Hydrogen Dimethicone Pigment 1,36<br />
FDP-C-Black (Jigen) Talc, CI 77891, CI 77499, Hydrogen Dimethicone Pigment 1,36<br />
C. Deionized Water Aqua to 100<br />
1,3-Butylene Glycol (Kyowa<br />
Hakko)<br />
Butylene Glycol Humectant 5,00<br />
Disodium EDTA (Acef) Disodium EDTA Chelating Agent 0,05<br />
Sodium Hyaluronate 1%<br />
(Nikko)<br />
Sodium Hyaluronate Moisturizing Agent 2,00<br />
20<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
“W/W” Foundation<br />
Oil free formulation for young skin. It gives fresh feeling.<br />
Trad<strong>it</strong>ionally used in the Kabuki trad<strong>it</strong>ional theatre in Japan, to avoid sweating during the performance.<br />
See our formulation n° 28B# 21
W/W FOUNDATION<br />
“W/W”<br />
FOUNDATION<br />
Oil free formulation for young skin. It gives<br />
fresh feeling.<br />
Trad<strong>it</strong>ionally used in the Kabuki theatre in Japan,<br />
to avoid sweating during the performance.<br />
W/W foundation<br />
Trade Name INCI Name Function %<br />
A. Deionized Water Aqua 68,20<br />
Glycerol 99,5% Glycerin Humectant 8,00<br />
1,3-Butylene Glycol (Kyowa Butylene Glycol Humectant 5,00<br />
Hakko)<br />
Dekaben (Jan Dekker)<br />
Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben,<br />
Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Propylparaben<br />
Preservative 0,90<br />
Amisoft HS-11 PF (Ajinomoto) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Emulsifier 0,30<br />
B. WCP-2039-Red (Jigen) CI 77891, Talc, CI 77491, Magnesium Stearate,<br />
Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid<br />
WCP-2039-Black (Jigen) CI 77891, Magnesium Stearate, Talc, CI 77499,<br />
Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid<br />
WCP-2039-Wh<strong>it</strong>e (Jigen)<br />
WCP-2039-Yellow (Jigen)<br />
CI 77891, Talc, Magnesium Stearate, Mica,<br />
Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid<br />
CI 77891, Talc, CI 77492, Magnesium Stearate,<br />
Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid<br />
Pigment 2,50<br />
Pigment 2,50<br />
Pigment 2,50<br />
Pigment 2,50<br />
Ecosoft 608 (Micro Powders) Polylactic Acid Texturizing Agent 1,50<br />
Elisphere A812 (Prodotti<br />
Gianni)<br />
Silica<br />
Texturizing Agent,<br />
Soft Focus,<br />
Thickener<br />
Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e P2043SL (Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e) Glass Beads Texturizing Agent 1,00<br />
Microslip 519 (Micro Powders) PTFE Texturizing Agent 3,00<br />
C. Aristoflex AVC (Clariant) Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP<br />
Copolymer<br />
D. Sodium Hyaluronate 1%<br />
(Nikko)<br />
Emulsifier, Rheology<br />
Modifier<br />
0,50<br />
0,60<br />
Sodium Hyaluronate Moisturizing Agent 1,00<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
No nano-material<br />
According to EU Regulation No 1223/2009, all substances in the form of nano-materials must be clearly<br />
indicated in the list of ingredients.<br />
In cosmetics nano-materials are commonly used for sun protection (mineral UV-filters like nano t<strong>it</strong>anium dioxide)<br />
and pigments (i.e. carbon black). To overcome this problem can be used products w<strong>it</strong>h particles larger than 100<br />
nm, and which are demonstrably free of particles smaller than 100 nm.<br />
22<br />
Elistar T-35<br />
Star-shaped lamellar silica w<strong>it</strong>h particle size 4-6 micron, including nano-t<strong>it</strong>anium dioxide among <strong>it</strong>s layers. Nano<br />
23
no-nano<br />
no-nano<br />
materials<br />
According to EU Regulation No 1223/2009, all<br />
substances in the form of nano-materials must<br />
be clearly indicated in the list of ingredients.<br />
In cosmetics nano-materials are commonly<br />
used for sun protection (mineral UV-filters<br />
like nano t<strong>it</strong>anium dioxide) and pigments (i.e.<br />
Elistar T-35<br />
Star-shaped lamellar silica w<strong>it</strong>h particle size 4-6 micron,<br />
including nano-t<strong>it</strong>anium dioxide among <strong>it</strong>s layers. Nano<br />
particles are therefore englobed in the star lamellar<br />
structure. Easy to disperse, <strong>it</strong> is a UV-screen w<strong>it</strong>h very good<br />
texture and transparency. Su<strong>it</strong>able for make-up products in<br />
emulsion or in powder.<br />
INCI name: Silica, T<strong>it</strong>anium Dioxide, Aluminum Hydroxide<br />
Code: IW00004595<br />
Supplier: Prodotti Gianni<br />
Distinctive Ink Black<br />
Chip AQ EU<br />
Carbon Black (CI 77266, D&C Black No.2) in flakes form,<br />
which does not contain particles smaller than 100nm. Easy<br />
to dissolve, for the formulation of mascaras and eyeliners.<br />
It provides darker shades at lower percentage compared<br />
to black iron oxide.<br />
INCI name: CI 77266, Polyester-5, PVP, Laureth-4<br />
Code: DI00005693<br />
Supplier: Resources of Nature<br />
carbon black). To overcome this problem can<br />
be used products w<strong>it</strong>h particles larger than<br />
100 nm, and which are demonstrably free of<br />
particles smaller than 100 nm.<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
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naturist finish<br />
naturist finish<br />
You have always looked for natural finish to get<br />
the fresh younger look.<br />
Now we can go further w<strong>it</strong>h a make-up that<br />
even naturists could accept.<br />
Transparency, comfort and natural origin will<br />
make you feel like having bare skin.<br />
Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />
The ghost powder. Spherical glass beads that gives<br />
incredible free-flowing abil<strong>it</strong>y and <strong>it</strong> doesn’t interfere w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
your colour and effects pigments. It avoid the chalky looks<br />
of the fillers and by acting as a mirror and a lens <strong>it</strong> magnify<br />
the visual effect of the particles all around.<br />
INCI name: Glass Beads<br />
Code: PL00005517- PL00005519<br />
Supplier: Prizmal<strong>it</strong>e<br />
Amihope LL<br />
Ecocert powder coming from coconut fatty acid and plant<br />
derived amino acid. It has high skin affin<strong>it</strong>y and <strong>it</strong> brings<br />
hydration and comfort during and after application. It has a<br />
transparent finish due to the low refractive index.<br />
INCI name: Lauroyl Lysine<br />
Code: AJ00000030<br />
Supplier: Ajinomoto<br />
GP-1 and EB-21<br />
Glutamic acid derivative. Oil gelling agent to formulate<br />
transparent stick for deodorants, lipstick and lip gloss<br />
applications. Also available in mixture w<strong>it</strong>h different<br />
solvents.<br />
INCI name GP-1: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide<br />
Code: AJ00000019<br />
INCI name EB-21: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide<br />
Code: AJ00005547<br />
Supplier: Ajinomoto<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
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anti-stinging<br />
anti-stinging<br />
EFFECT<br />
Stinging has become a major issue in skin care<br />
safety assessment in Asia.<br />
The latest reports show that 30% of consumers<br />
appear to be sens<strong>it</strong>ive to a stinging irr<strong>it</strong>ation<br />
from cosmetic products.<br />
Unlike irr<strong>it</strong>ation, stinging is defined in Japan as<br />
a slight sensory reaction of mild skin irr<strong>it</strong>ation.<br />
It does not involve the typical irr<strong>it</strong>ation symptoms,<br />
such as inflammation, redness, or pain, but is<br />
often described as an uncomfortable sensation<br />
or very light <strong>it</strong>ch.<br />
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate<br />
Water-soluble active derived from licorice roots. Clinically<br />
tested in Japan and approved as a quasi-drug ingredient.<br />
Essential component of most skin care products in Japan.<br />
Reduces irr<strong>it</strong>ation and inflammation. Inhib<strong>it</strong>s histamine<br />
release and hyaluronidase.<br />
Suppresses UV-induced erythema.<br />
It is the best solution for sens<strong>it</strong>ive skin.<br />
New in-vivo test data has been released on the antistinging<br />
effect of the DPG.<br />
INCI name: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate<br />
Code: NL00001371<br />
Supplier: Maruzen Pharmaceuticals<br />
Lecinol S-10<br />
Natural emulsifier w<strong>it</strong>h anti-inflammatory properties.<br />
Effectively reduces irr<strong>it</strong>ation. Decreases irr<strong>it</strong>ation potential of<br />
other surfactants. Enhances anti-inflammatory properties<br />
of oil-soluble actives (e.g. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate). Lecinol<br />
S-10 protects stratum corneum from damage by strong<br />
detergents and improves strength of cell membranes and<br />
makes cells more stable against irr<strong>it</strong>ating substances.<br />
INCI name: Hydrogenated Lec<strong>it</strong>hin<br />
Code: NL00001011<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
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Green tech<br />
green<br />
technology<br />
More and more consumers are looking for ecofriendly<br />
products. Now there’s an affordable<br />
way to bring eco-qual<strong>it</strong>ies to personal care.<br />
A perfect blend of science and nature.<br />
High-tech biodegradable powders from<br />
renewable sources, providing the outstanding<br />
benef<strong>it</strong>s of our advanced micronizing<br />
technology.<br />
Ecosoft<br />
A finely micronized powder biodegradable powders from<br />
renewable sources.<br />
Eco-friendly powders designed to provide increased slip as<br />
well as to enhance texture.<br />
Ideally su<strong>it</strong>ed for use as binders in pressed powders<br />
formulations.<br />
INCI name Ecososft 608: Polylactic Acid<br />
Code: MI00005769<br />
INCI name Ecososft 611: Polylactic Acid,Cera Carnauba<br />
Code: MI00005770<br />
Supplier: Micro Powders<br />
Ecoscrub<br />
High molecular weight powders produced from naturallyderived<br />
polymer.<br />
Specifically formulated for your green exfoliating product;<br />
they provide the same high performance of polyethylene<br />
powders from a biodegradable eco-friendly “green”<br />
polymer.<br />
Available in a variety of particle sizes<br />
INCI name: Polylactic Acid<br />
Code: MI00005766- MI00005768<br />
Supplier: Micro Powders<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
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minimalism<br />
minimalism<br />
Following the motto of “less is more”, also<br />
a cosmetic formulation can benef<strong>it</strong> from a<br />
reduced numbers of ingredients. Simplic<strong>it</strong>y<br />
turns into something special, as you keep only<br />
what <strong>it</strong> is essential to get a great formulation.<br />
Beside that, the benef<strong>it</strong> will comes also from<br />
a simplified materials handling and waste<br />
reduction.<br />
Lecinol S-10<br />
Hydrogenated lec<strong>it</strong>hin derived from soya.<br />
Contains 25-30% of Phosphatidyl Choline.<br />
Natural emulsifier w<strong>it</strong>h anti-inflammatory properties.<br />
Effectively reduces irr<strong>it</strong>ation. Decreases irr<strong>it</strong>ation potential of<br />
other surfactants. Enhances anti-inflammatory properties<br />
of oil-soluble actives (e.g. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate).<br />
INCI name: Hydrogenated Lec<strong>it</strong>hin<br />
Code: NL00001011<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
PUHP Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride series<br />
Multifunctional product.<br />
PUHP can works as adherence agent, texturizer, softfocus,<br />
lubricant, mattifying, spreading, pick-up enhancer,<br />
helps compaction, long wearing.<br />
A product w<strong>it</strong>h high versatil<strong>it</strong>y (wide particle size range):<br />
Opaque to transparent and mat to sparkling finish.<br />
INCI name: Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride<br />
Code: SG00000001-SG00000014<br />
Supplier: Saint-Gobain Ceramics<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
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peg-free<br />
peg-free<br />
The natural oriented consumer is more<br />
conscious of what kind of add<strong>it</strong>ives can be<br />
added to a cosmetic and consider them as<br />
“contaminants”, so the research of cosmetic<br />
free-from add<strong>it</strong>ives is a constant for every<br />
market segment and sales channel, from the<br />
Pharmacy to the Department Store ones.<br />
Emulprogress 57<br />
Hydrophilic PEG-free natural emulsifier for the formulation<br />
of O/W emulsions. Easy to use, <strong>it</strong> can emulsify any kind<br />
of oil regardless polar<strong>it</strong>y and <strong>it</strong> does not require the use of<br />
rheology modifier. It is characterized by a nice texture.<br />
INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate,<br />
Polyglyceryl-6 Tristearate, Hydroxypropyl Guar<br />
Code: PG00005700<br />
Supplier: Prodotti Gianni<br />
Nikkomulese 41<br />
Electrolyte-tolerant polymeric emulsifier / thickener for<br />
O/W systems. Prepares emulsions / gels w<strong>it</strong>h unique fresh<br />
feel and “cushion-like” (bouncing) texture.Easily forms<br />
liposomes w<strong>it</strong>h almost any water-soluble actives.<br />
INCI name: Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate,<br />
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate<br />
Code: NL00001102<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
Nikkomulese LC-EF<br />
“Second skin” concept: mimics and recreates natural skin<br />
barrier by forming unique Oil-in-Liquid Crystal-in-Water (O/<br />
LC/W) emulsions. Long lasting moisturization. Skin barrier<br />
improvement. Nikkomulese LC-EF is a natural compos<strong>it</strong>e<br />
emulsifier which shows excellent effect protecting the<br />
skin and improving the cond<strong>it</strong>ion of the skin, by creating<br />
a lamellar liquid crystal structure in the intercellular lipids of<br />
the Stratum Corneum, and therefore can be used as the<br />
best O/W emulsifier in moisturizing skin care series.<br />
INCI name: Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Phytosterol,<br />
Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Caprylic/Capric<br />
Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lec<strong>it</strong>hin, Tocopherol<br />
Code: NL00005710<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
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35
kansei<br />
kansei<br />
engineering<br />
Kansei is a science born in Japan that evaluates<br />
human sensory reaction to products by<br />
scientifically measuring brain activ<strong>it</strong>y, physical<br />
reaction of body (sweating, temperature<br />
change, shivers) etc. Kansei is to help develop<br />
products that would be pleasant a unique<br />
experience for consumers.<br />
Nikkomulese WO<br />
Extremely stable silicone-type emulsifier and hector<strong>it</strong>e<br />
derivative for water-in-silicone or silicone-rich W/O systems.<br />
It forms a thixotropic oil gel around water droplets. It makes<br />
very stable emulsions w<strong>it</strong>h extraordinary texture: light,<br />
elegant and glossy. It combines penetrating and waterproof<br />
properties of water-in-oil systems w<strong>it</strong>h light (not<br />
tacky) feel. Nikkomulese WO creates thixotropic emulsions<br />
w<strong>it</strong>h remarkable stabil<strong>it</strong>y and spreadabil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />
INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2<br />
Isostearate, Disteardimonium Hector<strong>it</strong>e<br />
Code: NL00001105<br />
Nikkomulese 41<br />
Electrolyte-tolerant polymeric emulsifier / thickener for<br />
O/W systems. Prepares emulsions / gels w<strong>it</strong>h unique fresh<br />
feel and “cushion-like” (bouncing) texture.Easily forms<br />
liposomes w<strong>it</strong>h almost any water-soluble actives.<br />
INCI name: Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate,<br />
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate<br />
Code: NL00001102<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
Nikkomulese LH<br />
Emulsifying and thickening properties of Nikkomulese<br />
LH are based on interaction (micelles) between a<br />
hydrophobically modified polymer, surfactant and modified<br />
hydrogenated lec<strong>it</strong>hin.<br />
INCI name: Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lec<strong>it</strong>hin, Hydroxypropyl<br />
Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Squalane, Sodium Methyl<br />
Stearoyl Taurate<br />
Code: NL00004326<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
The idea is to give consumers not just good<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
and effective product, but to provide the whole<br />
complex experience of application, which will<br />
make consumer come back to this product<br />
again: anything that will make consumers<br />
remember the <strong>it</strong>em “by their skin”.<br />
Nikkomulese series hold the sensory<br />
properties that make the skin remember. They<br />
are Emulsifiers Based on Three-Dimensional<br />
Network Structures.<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
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37
PRESERVAtive-FREE<br />
PRESERVATIVE<br />
FREE<br />
By defin<strong>it</strong>ion “Preservative” is a molecule w<strong>it</strong>h<br />
anti-microbial activ<strong>it</strong>y listed in Annex V of the<br />
New Cosmetic Regulation (REGULATION (EC)<br />
No 1223/2009).<br />
The preservative-free concept can be referred<br />
both to molecule characterized by an antimicrobial<br />
activ<strong>it</strong>y but not listed in the Annex V or<br />
to ingredients that do not contain preservatives<br />
in their formulation.<br />
Neofect 403<br />
Humectant in liquid form w<strong>it</strong>h broad spectrum anti microbial<br />
activ<strong>it</strong>y. Can be used as an auxiliary preservative.<br />
INCI name: Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate,<br />
Ethylhexylglycerin<br />
Code: JD00005703<br />
Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />
Nikkoguard 88<br />
Ingredient in liquid form w<strong>it</strong>h broad spectrum of anti<br />
microbial activ<strong>it</strong>y. Can be used as an auxiliary preservative,<br />
particularly indicated for emulsions.<br />
INCI name: Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin<br />
Code: NL00005657<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
Nikkoguard DL<br />
PEG-free emulsifier w<strong>it</strong>h a remarkable anti microbial activ<strong>it</strong>y.<br />
It has a natural origin.<br />
INCI name: Glyceryl Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate,<br />
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate<br />
Code: NL00001027<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
Glutrapeptide<br />
2nd generation of neuroactive, optimized bio availabil<strong>it</strong>y,<br />
face (anti-aging) and body care. Lipolytic efficacy.<br />
INCI name: Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Pyroglutamylamidoethyl<br />
Indole<br />
Code: EX00005649<br />
Supplier: Exsymol<br />
Algisium SP<br />
Multiactive. Skin restructuring and rejuvenation agent<br />
thanks to Silicium affin<strong>it</strong>y as a dermal structural component.<br />
INCI name: Methylsilanol Mannuronate<br />
Supplier: Exsymol<br />
Ascorbosilane SP<br />
Enhanced V<strong>it</strong>amin C w<strong>it</strong>h smart delivery silicium technology.<br />
Can acts as cutaneous detoxifier. anti-free radical,<br />
increased cell’s membrane resistance against free radicals.<br />
It shows optimal bioavailabil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />
INCI name: Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate<br />
Supplier: Exsymol<br />
Theophyllisilane SP<br />
Enhanced xanthic base w<strong>it</strong>h smart delivery silicium<br />
technology. Synergistic activ<strong>it</strong>y of silicium and acefylline.<br />
Microcirculation stimulation, release of fatty acid, oedema,<br />
puffy eyes and dark circles. Optimal bioavailibil<strong>it</strong>y.<br />
INCI name: Methylsilanol Carboxymethyl Theophylline<br />
Alginate, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer<br />
Supplier: Exsymol<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
38<br />
39
emulsifier-FREE<br />
emulsifier<br />
FREE<br />
Typically an emulsifier-free system is required<br />
for very sens<strong>it</strong>ive skin like atopic skin or babycare<br />
line.<br />
It is obtained by forming a oil gel/ water gel<br />
system.<br />
Usually a gelling agent w<strong>it</strong>h excellent structuring<br />
properties is required.<br />
Sylvaclear WF1500V<br />
Vegetable origin low molecular weight polymer (97%<br />
represented by Bio-carbon). Can be used as a gelling<br />
agent for high polar<strong>it</strong>y oils.<br />
Ideal for water and glycol based sticks and emulsions.<br />
INCI name: Polyamide-4<br />
Code: JD00005481<br />
Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />
Sylvaclear PA1200V<br />
Vegetable origin low molecular weight polymer (97%<br />
represented by Bio-carbon). Can be used as a gelling<br />
agent for medium polar<strong>it</strong>y oils. Water dispersible.<br />
Su<strong>it</strong>able for stick, anhydrous gel and emulsions.<br />
INCI name: Polyamide-3<br />
Code: JD00005161<br />
Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />
Sylvaclear C75V<br />
Vegetable origin low molecular weight polymer (97%<br />
represented by Bio-carbon). Can be used as a gelling<br />
agent for low polar<strong>it</strong>y oils. Has the lowest softening point<br />
(75-85°C). Water dispersible.<br />
Su<strong>it</strong>able for stick, anhydrous gel and emulsions.<br />
INCI name: Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/<br />
Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer<br />
Code: JD00005159<br />
Supplier: Jan Dekker<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
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41
Differently green<br />
differently<br />
green<br />
The number of Companies who are more and<br />
more conscious about environment protection<br />
is increasing.<br />
They are all comm<strong>it</strong>ted to reduce their impact<br />
on global environment.<br />
There are many different ways to approach this<br />
problem and all of them are efficient.<br />
PUHP Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride<br />
The Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride manufactured by Saint-Gobain used<br />
clean energy. The plant s<strong>it</strong>e is closed to the Niagara Falls<br />
and <strong>it</strong> take advantage of waterfall energy.<br />
The production has an Environmental Certification.<br />
INCI name: Boron N<strong>it</strong>ride<br />
Code: SG00000001-SG00000014<br />
Supplier: Saint-Gobain Ceramics<br />
GS Series<br />
Green Sustainable Series: alternative to petroleum-based<br />
feedstocks w<strong>it</strong>h plant-derived materials used for esters.<br />
They are produced following the new rules to reduce the<br />
dependence on lim<strong>it</strong>ed resources.<br />
Nikko Chemicals is willing to reduce their environmental<br />
impact by 2% (energy intens<strong>it</strong>y per un<strong>it</strong> of production when<br />
using electrical power, heavy oil and wastes).<br />
INCI name: Methylheptyl Laurate, Methylheptyl Myristate,<br />
Methylheptyl Plam<strong>it</strong>ate, Methylheptyl Isostearate<br />
Supplier: Nikko Chemicals<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
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43
C o s m e t i c<br />
ContactS page<br />
Customer Service<br />
Tel. +39 02 5097 200<br />
cosmetico@prodottigianni.com<br />
Sales manager<br />
Nadia Brenna<br />
nbrenna@prodottigianni.com<br />
Cosmetic Marketing<br />
Paola Gen<strong>it</strong>rini<br />
pgen<strong>it</strong>rini@prodottigianni.com<br />
Business un<strong>it</strong> manager<br />
Luigi Bondurri<br />
lbondurri@prodottigianni.com<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
Cosmetic web s<strong>it</strong>e<br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong>
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong>
www.cosmesi.<strong>it</strong><br />
Via Quintiliano, 30 - 20138 MILANO (ITALY)<br />
Tel. +39 02 5097 200 - Fax +39 02 5097 266<br />
www.prodottigianni.com