improved facial surface sebum and pore appearance - P&G Beauty ...

IMPROVED FACIAL SURFACE SEBUM
AND PORE APPEARANCE WITH
NIACINAMIDE AND SDA
FC02-06
AUTHORS: Rosemarie Osborne, PhD, Rachel Rose-Mansfield, MS,
Akira Matsubara, PhD, Cheri Swanson, PhD
AFFILIATIONS: The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio
USA and Kobe, Japan

Introduction
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is utilized in numerous topical cosmetic
products to provide beneficial effects for a wide array of common skin
problems such as those associated with aging and photoaging, e.g.,
dryness, red blotchiness, hyperpigmentation, texture problems and fine
lines/wrinkles (1-4). A general mechanism for niacinamide is as a
precursor to the important cofactors nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide
(NAD), its phosphate derivative (NADP), and their reduced forms
(NADH and NADPH).
• Dehydroacetic acid and its more water soluble salts such as Sodium
Dehydroacetate (SDA) have been used as antimicrobial agents in a
range of cosmetic formulations (5).
• A screening program was conducted with a wide range of compounds
and natural extracts to identify potential lipogenesis inhibitors. Two
compounds identified were Niacinamide and SDA.
• This report presents the in vitro responses as well as cosmetic benefits
of Niacinamide and SDA-containing moisturizers for sebum-related
endpoints.

Purpose/Objective
• To evaluate effects of Niacinamide and SDA on
lipogenesis in an in vitro model.
• To determine potential cosmetic benefits of daily
use of Niacinamide and SDA-containing facial
moisturizers for sebum, pores and texture
appearance endpoints in a clinical setting.

Methods
• In Vitro Sebocyte Assay:
– In vitro sebocytes have been used historically to evaluate effects of compounds on sebum
expression, including sebosuppression (6, 7). Lipid synthesis was detected via incorporation of
radiolabeled glucose over a 3 hour period in the presence of test compound in cultured
sebocytes (6, 7).
• Clinical Studies:
– Niacinamide Product Studies. Two 4-week studies were conducted with a niacinamide (2%)
containing facial moisturizer in Caucasian (U.S) and Japanese female panelists. The cosmetic
product was applied twice daily to the face and compared to the moisturizer base vehicle
control in a double-blind, vehicle-controlled split-face randomized (left-right) study design
(Caucasian study), and as well as compared to baseline (both studies). Facial surface sebum
(Sebutape®) and pore appearance (image analysis) were determined at baseline and up to 4
weeks. Self-assessments of improvements in facial skin appearance were obtained also.
Comparison of treatment groups was accomplished by t-test analysis.
– SDA Product Study. A double-blind study design similar to the that used for the niacinamide
studies was used to evaluate a facial moisturizer containing 0.5% SDA in combination with
3.5% niacinamide as compared to the moisturizer base vehicle control moisturizer. The
panelists were Caucasian (U.S.) women in a 6-week vehicle-controlled split-face randomized
(left-right) study design, evaluating sebum (Sebumeter) and pore (image analysis) endpoints.
Self-assessments of improvements in facial skin appearance were obtained also. Comparison
of treatment groups was accomplished by t-test analysis.

In Vitro Results - Lipogenesis
• Niacinamide reduced lipogenesis in a dose-dependent manner, with significant inhibitory
activity observed up to 4.0% (w/v) niacinamide. For example, at 1% niacinamide (Fig. 1)
lipogenesis was significantly reduced to 33% of control levels (p < 0.05, Student’s t).
• SDA and its free acid form, dehydroacetic acid (DA), significantly (p < 0.05) inhibited
lipogenesis by up to 82% over a dose range up to 0.15% in the in vitro lipogenesis assay.
For example, at 0.1% (w/v), SDA and DA inhibited lipogenesis to 45% and 48% of control,
respectively.
Figure 1. In Vitro Sebum Lipogenesis
100
In Vitro Lipogenesis
(% Control)
80
60
40
20
0
*
*
*
1 % Ni ac 0.1%SDA 0.1%DA
*p

Niacinamide Product – Surface Sebum & Pores (Caucasian Women)
• Figure 2. Use of a moisturizer containing 2% niacinamide for 4 weeks
led to decreased sebum (Sebutape®) and pores (image analysis) in
Caucasian women significantly vs baseline, and vs the vehicle control
moisturizer.
Sebum & Pore Reduction from Baseline (%)
5
-5
- 15
- 25
- 35
- 45
* *
*
*
2%Niacinamide
Control
Sebum Area Sebum Spots
Pore Count Pore Area
*p

Niacinamide Product – Surface Sebum & Pores (Japanese Women)
• Figure 3. Decreased facial skin surface sebum
with use of a 2% niacinamide product for 2 or 4
weeks in Japanese women. Images indicate
Sebutape ® appearance. A majority (88%) of the
panelists reported their skin was less oily.
• Figure 4. Decreased facial pore appearance
with use of a 2% niacinamide product for 2 or 4
weeks in Japanese women. Images indicate
example facial images used for pore image
analysis.
Sebum Reduction from Baseline (%)
0
- 10
- 20
- 30
- 40
*
*
Week 2 Week 4
*p

Niacinamide + SDA Product –Surface Sebum & Texture
• Figure 5. Decreased facial skin surface
sebum (Sebumeter) with use of a 3.5%
niacinamide product or a niacinamide + 0.5%
SDA combination product for 6 weeks. A
majority (62%) of panelists reported the SDA
product reduced oily shine better than the
niacinamide alone product.
• Figure 6. Decreased bumpy facial texture/pore
appearance (% texture/pore area fraction) with
use of a 3.5% niacinamide product or a
niacinamide + 0.5% SDA combination product for
6 weeks. A majority (70%) of panelists reported
that the SDA product reduced texture & pores
better than the niacinamide alone product.
Sebum Level
(% Change from Baseline)
0
-5
- 10
- 15
- 20
- 25
- 30
- 35
- 40
- 45
*
Facial Texture/Pores
(% Change from Baseline)
0
-2
-4
-6
-8
- 10
- 12
- 14
- 16
- 18
* † - 20
*
* †
Control Niac Niac+SDA
*p

Figure 7. Improvement in Texture and Pores
Baseline
6 Weeks:
Niacinamide + SDA Product

Conclusions
• Niacinamide and SDA reduced lipogenesis in an in vitro sebocyte
model (Fig. 1).
• In both Caucasian (Fig. 2) and Japanese women (Figs. 3 & 4), use of a
niacinamide-containing moisturizer reduced surface sebum levels as
well as the appearance of facial pores.
• Use of a moisturizer containing a combination of niacinamide & SDA
led to a significant reduction in surface sebum as compared to
niacinamide product alone (Fig. 5).
• The reduction in surface sebum was paralleled by reduction in uneven
skin texture and pores (Figs. 6 & 7). A majority of the panelists
reported their skin was less oily and had reduced uneven texture and
pores with the combination product.
• These results indicate that facial moisturizers containing cosmetic
ingredients such as niacinamide and SDA are valuable in reducing skin
surface sebum as well as the appearance of uneven facial texture and
pores.

References
(1) Matts et al. 2002: A review of the range of effects of niacinamide in human skin.
Intl Fed Soc Cosmet Chem Magazine 5:285-289
(2) Bissett et al. 2003: Topical niacinamide provides skin aging appearance benefits
while enhancing barrier function. J Clin Dermatol 32:S9-S18.
(3) Soma et al. 2005: Moisturizing effects of topical nicotinamide on atopic dry skin.
Int J Dermatol 44:197-202.
(4) Draelos 2005: Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier
and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis 76:135-141.
(5) Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and
Dehydroacetic Acid (1985). J Am Coll Toxicol 4:123-159
(6) Wheatley VR, Hodgins LT, Coon WM, (1970) Cutaneous lipogenesis. J Invest
Dermatol 54: 288-297.
(7) Seki T, Morohashi M 1993: Effect of some alkaloids, flavonoids and
triterpenoids, contents of Japanese-Chinese traditional herbal medicines, on the
lipogenesis of sebaceous glands. Skin Pharmacol. 6:56-60.

This work was funded by P&G Beauty & Grooming