Bicycle Owner's Manual - English (.pdf 1.4 MB) - Trek Bicycle ...

Important: Keep for 

Future Reference 

This manual shows how to ride your new 

bicycle safely. Even if you have ridden a 

bicycle for years, it is important for 

EACH person to read Chapter 1 before 

you ride this bicycle! Parents should speak 

about Chapter 1 to a child or person who might 

not understand this manual. 

This manual also shows you how to do basic 

maintenance. Some tasks should only be done 

by your dealer, and this manual identifies them. 

Keep this Manual with the Bike 

This manual is considered a part of the bicycle 

that you have purchased. If you sell the bike, 

please make sure this manual is transferred to 

the new owner as part of the sale. 

About the CD 

This manual includes a CD (compact disc) that 

gives you more comprehensive information 

while we use less paper for the environment. 

Please view the CD to see information that is 

specific to your bicycle. 

If you do not have a computer at home, operate 

the CD on a computer at school, work, or the 

public library. If your CD does not operate, the 

same information is on our web site. The address 

for the web site is on the cover of this manual. 

Complete the Registration 

Bicycle registration is the only record we have 

of who owns this bicycle. If it is necessary to 

give you new instructions, your registration 

record is very important. Registration and 

proof of purchase are necessary to make a 

warranty claim. Choose one of these easy 

procedures to complete the registration: 

• On the CD, click the link “Register.” 

• Go to the web address on the cover of this 

manual and click on the links. 

The web site also gives you a link to new 

instructions. If you make a decision not to 

complete the registration, make sure you visit 

the web site frequently. 

Meaning of Safety Signs and Language 

In this manual the Safety Alert symbol, a 

triangle with an exclamation mark, shows a 

hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could 

cause injury: 

‘CAUTION’ indicates the possibility 

of mild or moderate injury. 

‘WARNING’ indicates the possibility 

of serious injury or death. 

This manual complies with these standards: 

• ANSI Z535.6 

• BS 6102 : Part 1: 1992 

• CEN 14764, 14765, 14766, 14781, 14872 

• CPSC CFR 1512 

My bicycle model 

My serial number: Lock key # 

My dealer: 

The phone number of my dealer: 

i

Assembly of Your New Bicycle 

Special tools and skills are necessary for the 

assembly and the first adjustment of your 

bicycle. Only your dealer should do this. 

If You Have Questions 

There are many models of bicycles with a 

variety of equipment, so this manual might 

contain some instructions that do not apply 

to your bicycle. Some illustrations might be 

different from your bicycle. 

If you have questions after you read this 

manual, speak to your dealer. If you have a 

question or problem that your dealer can not 

answer or repair, tell us: 

Attn: Customer Service 

801 W. Madison Street 

Waterloo, Wisconsin 53594 

920.478.4678 

A Word About Bicycles, 

Accidents, and Safety 

A bicycle can be fun when used for 

transportation, recreation, exercise, or 

competition. But riding a bicycle can also be 

dangerous, especially if you try to ride beyond 

the limits of your ability or the limits of your 

bicycle. The skill of bicycle riders can vary 

greatly, just like the skill of an automobile driver 

or a skier. Do not ride in a manner that exceeds 

your ability. 

Each bicycle also has limits because of many 

properties: 

• Design and material of the bicycle 

• Maintenance and use of the bicycle 

• Surface of the road or trail 

• And more 

An Impact can Weaken your Bicycle 

If you crash or apply force that is higher than 

the limits of your bicycle, you are very likely to 

cause damage to the bicycle or its parts. If your 

bicycle has damage and you crash or load it 

again later, the previous impact can cause your 

bicycle to break at a much lower load. 

A Bicycle Cannot Protect You 

in an Accident 

Bicycles are not designed to withstand every 

situation. In a crash or impact, it is not uncommon 

for the bicycle to have damage and for you to fall. 

If you fall, your bicycle can not prevent injury. Cars 

have bumpers, seat belts, air bags, and crumple 

zones. Bicycles do not, so even a small crash at 

slow speed can cause injury or death. 

Think Safety 

Always “Think Safety” and avoid dangerous 

situations, which are usually obvious. But not 

all dangerous situations are obvious. Many of 

those are shown in this manual; read at least 

Chapter 1 before you ride. 

Some of the high-risk stunts and jumps seen in 

magazines or videos are very dangerous; even 

skilled athletes get severe injuries when they 

crash (and they do crash). 

Changes to Your Bicycle 

Can Make it Unsafe 

Each and every part of your new bicycles has 

been carefully chosen and approved. The 

safety of accessory or replacement parts, and 

especially how those parts attach and interface 

with other parts of the bicycle, is not always 

apparent. For this reason, you should only 

replace parts with original equipment or parts 

that are approved. If you are not sure what 

parts are approved, ask your dealer. 

ii

Table of Contents 

A Word About Bicycles, Accidents, 

and Safety.....................................................................ii 

Bicycle Type and Use Condition ...........................1 

Chapter 1: Guide to Safe On-and-Off 

Road Operation 

Before a First Ride..................................................... 3 

Checklist: Check Before Each Ride......................4 

Rules to Ride Safely 

Know and Obey Local Bicycle Laws....................8 

Look for Cars, Pedestrians, 

and Other Obstacles................................................8 

Wear a Helmet and Bicycle Clothing..................9 

Ride Safely in Wet Weather or Wind..................9 

Make Sure Other People Can See You ...............9 

Think About Safety When You Ride....................9 

Riding instructions 

Use Your Brakes Carefully.................................... 10 

Change Gears Correctly......................................... 11 

Use Pedal Systems Carefully................................ 11 

Safeguard Your Bicycle 

Prevent Theft of Your Bicycle................................12 

Safely Park Your Bicycle.........................................12 

Include Repair Items when You Ride..................12 

Only Install Compatible Accessories.................12 

Clean Your Bicycle...................................................13 

Avoid Incidental Damage to Your Bicycle.........13 

Chapter 2: Maintenance 

Tools for Bicycle Maintenance.............................13 

Maintenance Schedule.......................................... 14 

Chapter 3: Adjustment 

A Word about Torque Specifications.................15 

Handlebar...................................................................15 

Stem.............................................................................15 

Saddle..........................................................................17 

Headset...................................................................... 18 

Crankarms................................................................. 18 

Bottom Bracket........................................................ 18 

Pedals.......................................................................... 19 

Chain........................................................................... 19 

Cables......................................................................... 19 

Shift-levers................................................................ 19 

Front Derailleur....................................................... 20 

Rear Derailleur..........................................................21 

Internal Gear Systems...........................................22 

Brakes.........................................................................22 

Brake-levers..............................................................25 

Wheels.......................................................................26 

Wheel Installation...................................................27 

Tire Installation.........................................................31 

Suspension................................................................33 

Accessories...............................................................33 

Training Wheels...................................................... 34 

Chapter 4: Lubrication 

Stem............................................................................35 

Seatpost.....................................................................35 

Bottom Bracket........................................................35 

Pedals..........................................................................35 

Derailleurs.................................................................36 

Headset......................................................................36 

Brakes and Brake-levers........................................36 

Wheels.......................................................................36 

Suspension Forks.....................................................36 

Rear Suspension......................................................36 

Cables.........................................................................36 

For more instructions...................................37 

iii

Bicycle Type and 

Use Condition 

There are many types of bicycles. Each bicycle 

type is made for a specified use, or Use 

Condition. If your use of a bicycle applies more 

stress than the limit of its use condition, this 

could cause breakage of the bicycle (or a part of 

the bicycle). 

• Tandem 

• Cruiser with large, 26” tires and swept-back 

handlebar 

• Pedelec electric-assist bicycle 

• Weight limit of rider: 275 lbs (125 kg); 

Tandem: 550 lbs (250 kg); 

Pedelec: 300 lbs (136 kg) 

This section shows the Use Condition for different 

types of bicycles. If you are not sure of what type 

of bicycle you have, speak to your dealer. 

Child Bicycle 

A bicycle made for a child. A child should 

not ride without the supervision of a parent. 

Children should not ride near slopes, curbs, 

stairs, drop-offs, or pools; or areas that 

automobiles use: 

• Maximum saddle height of 680 mm 

• Usually a bicycle with 12”, 16”, or 20” wheels; 

or a child’s tricycle 

• No quick-release wheel attachment systems 

• Weight limit of rider: 80 lbs (36 kg) 

Condition 2 

A bicycle made to ride on Condition 1, plus 

smooth gravel roads and groomed trails with 

low-angle grades where the tires are always on 

the ground: 

• Hybrid bicycle with 700c wheels, tires wider 

than 28c, and flat handlebars 

• City bicycle: hybrid with special equipment 

such as fenders or a light 

• Cyclocross bicycle: drop-type handlebar, 

knobby 700c tires, and cantilever 

or disc brakes 

• Mountain bike with 24” wheels 


24” wheel mountain bike: 175 lbs (80 kg) 

Condition 1 

A bicycle made to ride on a paved surface 

where the tires are always on the ground: 

• Road bicycle with drop-type handlebar 

• Triathlon, time trial, or speed bicycle 

1 

Chapter 1: Guide to Safe On-and-Off Road Operation

Condition 3 

A bicycle made to ride on Conditions 1 and 2, plus 

rough trails, small obstacles, and smooth technical 

areas, and also areas where tires momentarily are 

not on the ground; NOT for jumps. 

Any mountain bike that does not have rear 

suspension is Condition 3. Any mountain 

bike with short-travel rear suspension is also 

Condition 3: 

• “Standard,” “race,” or “cross-country” mountain 

bike with wide, knobby 26” or 29” tires 

• Short-travel rear suspension (3”/75 mm or less) 


Condition 5 

A bicycle made to jump, ride at high speeds, 

ride aggressively on rougher surfaces, or 

complete jumps on flat surfaces. 

This type of use is very dangerous and puts 

large forces on a bicycle. Large forces can apply 

dangerous stress to a frame, fork, or the parts. 

If you ride in Condition 5 terrain, you should 

practice safety precautions such as more 

frequent bicycle inspections and more frequent 

replacement of equipment. You should also 

wear comprehensive safety equipment such as 

a full-face helmet, pads, and body armor. 

• “Freeride” or “jumping” bicycle with heavyduty 

frames, forks, and components 

• Long-travel rear suspension (7”/178 mm or 

more) 


Condition 4 

A bicycle made to ride on Conditions 1, 2, and 

3; plus rough technical areas, obstacles of 

moderate height, and small jumps: 

• “Heavy-duty,” “trail,” or “all-mountain” 

mountain bike with wide, knobby 26” or 29” 

tires 

• Medium-travel rear suspension (4”/100 mm 

or more) 


WARNING: If your use of a bicycle 

applies more stress than the Use 

Condition for which it is intended, the 

bicycle or its parts can have damage 

or break. A bicycle that has damage 

could decrease your control and cause 

you to fall. Do not ride in Use 

Conditions that apply more stress 

than the limits of the bicycle. If you 

are not sure of the limits of the 

bicycle, speak to your dealer. 

Chapter 1: Guide to Safe On-and-Off Road Operation 2

Chapter 1: Guide to 

Safe On-and-Off Road 

Operation 

Before a First Ride 

Make Sure Your Bicycle is the Correct Size 

Your dealer will help you find a bicycle 

that has the correct dimensions for your 

body. There should be at least 1” (25 mm) 

clearance between the top tube and you 

when you stand over your bicycle (Figure 1). 

For a mountain bicycle, we recommend 2-3” 

(50-75 mm) clearance. 

You can adjust the saddle and handlebar to offer 

the best comfort and performance. Before you 

make these adjustments, refer to Chapter 3. 

A 

Figure 1: 

Minimum standover 

height 

A = 1” (25mm) for most 

bicycles 

2-3” (50-75mm) for 

mountain bicycles 

Know How Your Bicycle Operates 

The properties of your bicycle, if not used 

correctly, can decrease your control of the bicycle. 

Before you ride fast or in conditions that are a 

problem, learn the operation and performance 

of all the mechanisms of your bicycle, especially 

brakes and steering components. As an example, 

“aero-bars” can make steering and braking 

difficult. Practice the use of your bicycle at slower 

speeds in a flat, empty parking area. Repeat this 

step after any change to your bicycle. 

If your bicycle does not operate as necessary, 

or if different parts are necessary for the safe 

operation of your bicycle, speak to your dealer. 

Learn the Power of Your Brakes 

The power of bicycle brakes changes with the Use 

Condition of the bicycle. If you think it is necessary 

for your bicycle to have more—or less—power to 

stop, speak to your dealer about brake adjustments 

or other brake options for your bicycle. 

WARNING: If you do not use the 

brake system correctly or you apply 

too much force with the front-wheel 

brake, the brakes could decrease your 

control and cause you to fall. Practice 

to correctly apply your brakes as 

shown in this manual. 

Prevent Toe-clip Overlap 

Some modern, high-performance bicycles, 

especially smaller sizes, use a short-wheelbase 

design with the front wheel close to the pedals. 

Increasing the distance between the front 

wheel and pedals could place the handlebar 

too far away or make the steering unwieldy. On 

bicycles where this distance is short, when the 

handlebar is turned during very slow speeds 

your foot or toe-clips could overlap or touch the 

front wheel or fender (Figure 2). 

This overlap is affected by the size of your feet, 

the length of the crankarms, and the pedals 

you choose. At usual speeds, the handlebar 

does not turn sufficiently for overlap to occur. 

When you ride slowly, do not pedal when the 

handlebar is turned. 

WARNING: If your foot or toe-clip 

touches the front wheel or fender, 

toe-clip overlap could decrease your 

control and cause you to fall. Do not 

pedal when you turn at slow speed. 

3 


Figure 2: 

Toe-clip overlap 

Checklist: Check Before Each Ride 

This is not a full maintenance program. 

Examine the Frame and Fork 

If Your Frame or Fork has a Problem, 

Stop Your Bicycle 

Frame problems are not common, but as an 

example, some riders could get a “shimmy” or 

“harmonic oscillation” or “frame wobble” at 

some speeds. If you get a shimmy or any other 

problem, decrease your speed immediately and 

do not ride the bicycle. Transport your bicycle 

directly to a dealer for inspection and repair. 

WARNING: A frame or fork problem 


you to fall. If your bicycle gets a 

shimmy or any other problem, 

decrease your speed immediately. 

Transport your bicycle to your dealer 

for inspection and repair. 

Examine Your Bicycle Before Each Ride 

The checklist that follows shows critical areas 

for you to examine. If a part of your bicycle 

does not have the correct function, use the 

instructions in this manual to repair your 

bicycle or transport your bicycle to your dealer 

for repair. Do not ride a bicycle with a part that 

is damaged; replace the part. 

WARNING: A bicycle that does not 

operate correctly can decrease your 

control and cause you to fall. Fully 

examine all of your bicycle before 

each ride, and do not ride your bicycle 

until you correct any problem. 

Before and after each ride, examine all of your 

bicycle for signs of fatigue stress: 

• Dents 

• Cracks 

• Scratches • Deformation 

• Discoloration • Unusual noises 

Bicycles are not indestructible, and their parts 

will not last forever. If your use of a bicycle 

increases the forces on it through hard riding, 

difficult conditions, or increased mileage, you 

should replace your bicycle or its parts more 

frequently than riders who ride less or ride 

smoothly and carefully. The safe life of a part 

is determined by its construction, materials, 

use, maintenance, rider weight, speed, terrain, 

maintenance, and environment (humidity, 

salinity, temperature, etc.)—so it is not possible 

to give an accurate timetable for replacement. 

If you are not sure if you should replace a part, 

speak to your dealer. 

A major impact is anything that causes you 

to fall from your bike. It is not uncommon in 

a major impact for the bicycle or its parts to 

have damage. A minor impact, where you hit an 

obstacle without falling from your bike, can still 

place high stresses on your bicycle. After any 

impact, if your bicycle behaves in an unusual 

manner or you hear a noise, immediately stop 

the bicycle and identify the problem. Always 

inspect the bicycle thoroughly before riding the 

bicycle again. 

In some cases, a lighter frame or part 

has a longer life than heavier ones. But 

better maintenance, more frequent 

inspections, and more frequent replacement 

are necessary for light-weight, highperformance 

bicycles and parts. 

Chapter 1: Guide to Safe On-and-Off Road Operation 

4

Carbon Fiber Composite 

Pound for pound, carbon fiber is stronger that 

steel or aluminum. But it behaves differently 

when it is overloaded in an accident or impact. 

An overloaded metal part will bend or deform 

before it breaks, showing evidence of the load 

(Figure 3). An overloaded carbon fiber part will 

not bend or deform, so a damaged carbon part 

(with reduced strength due to the damage) 

may look normal—even after the same load 

that bent the metal part. But when the sum of 

the forces finally exceeds the strength limit of 

the carbon fiber, the carbon fiber part breaks, it 

does not bend (Figure 3). 

In an accident or impact that does not break 

the carbon fiber, the carbon fiber could have 

internal or hidden damage but appear normal. 

If that occurs, please carefully read these 

instructions and examine the carbon fiber. 

These tests are not conclusive: If you are not 

sure a part is safe, replace it. 

We offer a generous crash replacement program. 

If you crash your carbon bicycle or part, visit your 

dealer to learn more about this program. 

Figure 3: 

Overloaded forks: 

• The metal fork on 

the left bent when 

overloaded 

• The carbon fiber fork 

on the right failed at 

much higher load, but 

separated 

Carbon Fiber Test 

This section tells you how to examine carbon 

fiber parts. A movie on the owner’s manual CD 

(also on our web site) shows the tap test. 

WARNING: A carbon fiber part that 

has damage can break suddenly, 

causing serious injury or death. 

Carbon fiber can conceal damage from 

an impact or crash. If you suspect your 

bicycle has had an impact or crash, 

immediately stop the bicycle. Replace 

the part before riding, or take the 

bicycle to your dealer for service. 

To examine for surface problems 

1. Clean the part fully with a moist cloth. 

2. Look carefully for problems: 

• Scratches or gouges • Discoloration 

• Cracks 

• Loose fibers 

• Other surface imperfections 

To examine for a change of rigidity (flex test) 

Do not ride, but use the part in the usual 

manner while someone carefully examines 

the part for movement or unusual noise. As an 

example, sit on the saddle while someone looks 

for unusual flex that would indicate a problem. 

To examine for delamination (tap test) 

1. Clean the part fully with a moist cloth. 

2. With a coin, tap near the possible damage. 

3. Listen carefully for variations in sound. Tap on 

the part where it is in good condition (or use 

a part that is almost the same). Compare the 

sound. Anything unusual, especially a hollow 

sound, indicates a problem. 

5 


Examine the Wheels 

Make sure the wheels are straight. Turn the wheel 

and examine the rim when it goes through the 

brake-pads or the frame. The rim should not 

wobble up and down or from side to side. 

Make sure the wheels are attached correctly. 

Lift your bicycle and hit the top of the tire 

(Figure 4) with a solid blow. The wheel should 

not come off, be loose, or move from side to 

side. More tests are given in Chapter 3. 

Your bicycle may use one or more systems to 

attach the wheels to the frame: threaded axle 

nuts, a lever-actuated quick-release mechanism 

(Figure 5), or a thru-axle. For instructions about 

adjustment and closure of the wheel attachment 

devices on your bicycle, see Chapter 3. 

WARNING: A wheel attachment 

device that is not correctly adjusted 

and closed can allow the wheel to be 

loose or come off, decrease your 

control, and cause you to fall. Make 

sure the wheels are correctly attached 

before you ride your bicycle. 

Figure 4: 

Test for loose condition 

Examine the tire inflation. Inflate the tires to 

the air pressure recommended on the sidewall 

of the tire. 

Examine the Brakes 

Use the inspection instructions for the type of 

brakes on your bicycle: 

WARNING: A brake system that has 

damage or is not adjusted correctly 


you to fall. Make a full inspection of 

the brakes before each ride. If your 

brakes do not operate correctly, do 

not ride your bicycle. Adjust the 

brakes or transport your bicycle to 

your dealer for repair. 

Hand-Rim Brake: a cable connects a hand lever 

to the brake. The lever causes the brake-pads 

to apply pressure to the rim. 

Pull the brake-lever to make sure the brake 

moves freely and stops your bicycle. If the brakelever 

can be pulled to the handlebar, the brake is 

too loose. When the brakes are not applied, the 

brake-pads should be 1 to 2 mm from the rim. If 

the brake-pads are too near the rim, the brake is 

too tight. The brake-pads should be in alignment 

with the rim surface (Figure 6). 

1 2 

Figure 5: 

Wheel quick-release 

1. Adjustment nut 

2. Lever 

3 

1 

2 

4 

Figure 6: 

Brake pad alignment 

1. Brake-pad in alignment 

with rim surface 

2. Pad and rim should be 

parallel 

3. Direction that the rim 

turns 

4. 0.5-1.0 mm toe-in 


Disc Brake: a cable or hydraulic hose connects 

a hand lever to the brake. The lever causes the 

brake to apply pressure to a disc attached to 

the wheel hub. 

Figure 7: 

Test for chain tension 

CAUTION: A disc brake and disc 

gets very hot during use and could 

burn skin. Also, the disc edges can be 

sharp and could cut skin. Do not touch 

the disc or disc brake when the disc 

turns or when it is hot. 

Pull the brake-lever to make sure the brake 

moves freely and stops your bicycle. If the brakelever 

can be pulled to the handlebar, the brake is 

too loose. When the brakes are not applied, the 

brake-pads should be 0.25-0.75 mm away from 

the disc. If the pads are too near the disc, the 

brake is not in alignment or it is too tight. 

Internal Hub Brake: a cable connects the 

brake-lever to a mechanism in the hub. 

WARNING: An internal hub brake 

gets very hot during use and could 

burn skin. Do not touch the hub or 

cooling fins when hot. 

Examine the Handlebar and Stem 

Make sure the stem is in alignment with the front 

wheel and correctly attached to the fork and 

handlebar. To examine the attachment to the 

fork, try to turn the handlebar from side to side 

while you hold the front wheel between your 

knees (Figure 8). To examine the connection 

of the handlebar, try to twist it in the stem. The 

handlebar should not move or be loose. Make 

sure that no cables are pulled or caught on your 

bicycle when you turn the handlebar. 

Make sure the handlebar plugs are correctly put 

into the two ends of the handlebar. 

Figure 8: 

Function test for the 

handlebar and stem 

If more than 5/8” (15 mm) of brake-lever 

movement is necessary to stop your bicycle, 

the brake is too loose. If less than 7 mm of 

lever movement stops your bicycle, the brakes 

are too tight. 

Coaster Brake: when you move the pedals to 

the rear, the brake engages. 

The brake should engage before the crankarms 

turn 60 degrees (1/6 turn). The chain operates 

the brake, so make sure the chain can not come 

off. There should be between 1/4-1/2” (6-12 

mm) total vertical movement of the chain 

(Figure 7). 

Examine the Saddle and Seatpost 

Make sure the saddle is correctly attached. Try 

to turn the saddle and seatpost in the frame, 

and try to move the front of the saddle up and 

down. The saddle should not move or be loose. 

7 


Examine the Suspension 

Adjust your suspension for your use, and 

make sure that no suspension component can 

“bottom-out,” or be fully compressed. 

Examine the Lights and Reflectors 

Make sure the lights operate correctly and 

that batteries are charged. If the lights use a 

dynamo, make sure the dynamo is mounted 

correctly and all attachment hardware is tight. 

Make sure all reflectors are clean and in their 

correct position. 

Some countries, areas. or governments have 

specific requirements for lights, such as colors or 

types. Check before traveling with your bicycle. 

WARNING: A bicycle without 

correct lights and reflectors might be 

difficult for other people to see, and 

you might not be able to see. If you 

can not see, or other people can not 

see you, you could have an accident. 

Use a front light, a rear light, and 

reflectors when you ride in low 

visibility conditions. 

Rules to Ride Safely 

Know and Obey Local Bicycle Laws 

Most state and local areas have special laws 

for bicycle riders, and you should obey the 

laws. The necessary items such as lights and 

reflectors change between areas. To learn 

what is necessary, speak to the local bicycle 

clubs or your Department of Transportation 

(or the equivalent). 

These are some of the more important rules for 

when you ride: 

• Use correct hand signals. 

• Ride one at a time when you ride with other 

bicycle riders. 

• Ride on the correct side of the road; Do not 

ride in the opposite direction of traffic. 

• Ride defensively; be prepared for all 

situations. A bicycle rider is hard to see, and 

many drivers do not know the rights and 

special considerations of a bicycle rider. 

Look for Cars, Pedestrians, 

and Other Obstacles 

Look for potholes, drain grates, soft or low 

shoulders, and other deviations which could 

cause an impact to your wheels or cause the 

wheels to slide. When you go across railroad 

tracks or drain grates, ride carefully at a 90° 

angle (Figure 9). If you are not sure of the 

surface conditions, walk with your bicycle. 

90 

Figure 9: 

Ride across tracks safely 

at a 90° angle 

45 


If a car suddenly moves into your lane or 

someone opens the door of a parked car, you 

could be in a bad accident. Attach a horn or bell 

to your bicycle. Use it to tell other people that 

you are near. 

Wear a Helmet and Bicycle Clothing 

Wear a helmet that complies with CPSC or CE 

safety standards (Figure 10); it can prevent injury. 

Remove your helmet when you are not on your 

bicycle; if the helmet is caught, you could choke. 

Wear bicycle clothing, eye protection, and 

gloves. Do not wear clothing that is loose; it 

could get caught in the chain or the wheels. 

Also wear light, bright, and reflective clothing to 

make you more easy to see, especially at night. 

Figure 10: 

Wear a bicycle helmet 

when you ride 

When you ride in wet weather, a wet tire can 

cause a malfunction of a dynamo (generator 

light). Do not ride in wet weather when visibility 

is decreased. 

WARNING: Wet or inclement 

weather can make a bicycle difficult to 

control. Decrease your speed and use 

extra caution, or use other types of 

transportation. 

Make Sure Other People Can See You 

Your bicycle has a full set of reflectors. Make 

sure the reflectors are clean and in the correct 

position. As useful as these reflectors are, they 

do not help your vision. They do not make you 

easy to see unless light is pointed at them. You 

should see and be seen. If you ride at dusk, at 

night, or in low-visibility conditions, speak to 

your dealer to find equipment or materials to 

help your vision and make you more easy to see. 

Ride Safely in Wet Weather or Wind 

No brakes stop as effectively in wet weather as 

they do in dry weather. Even with brakes that 

are correctly adjusted and serviced, more lever 

pressure and longer distances are necessary to 

stop in wet weather. 

Wet weather causes decreased traction. The 

road surface can become slippery and ordinary 

objects can become treacherous, such as 

wet leaves, painted crosswalks, or manhole 

covers. When wet surfaces freeze, traction is 

decreased further. Strong winds can make a 

bicycle turn without your control. 

WARNING: When you ride in 

low-visibility conditions such as fog, 

dusk, or night, you might be difficult 

to see, which could lead to a collision. 

Use a front light and rear light when 

you ride in conditions with low light or 

low visibility. 

Think About Safety When You Ride 

You can prevent many bicycle accidents if you 

think about safety. Here are some examples: 

• Do not ride ‘no hands.’ 

• Do not ride with loose objects attached to 

the handlebar or other part of your bicycle. 

• Do not ride while intoxicated or while you use 

medications which can make you drowsy. 

• Do not ‘ride double.’ 

• Ride carefully when off-road. Ride only on 

the trails. Do not ride over rocks, branches, 

or depressions. When you ride near a 

9 


descent, decrease your speed, move your 

weight low and to the rear, and use the rear 

brake more than the front. 

• Do not ride abusively. Ride in the Use 

Conditions specified for your bicycle type. 

• Do not ride too fast. Higher speeds cause 

higher risks. At higher speeds, it is more 

likely that wheels will slide, or that a small 

bump can cause an impact to your frame 

or fork. Higher speeds make larger forces 

if a crash occurs. Control your bicycle at 

all times. 

WARNING: You add to your risk of 

injury when you do not use your 

bicycle correctly: 

• Jump your bicycle 

• Ride over sticks or debris 

• Do bicycle stunts 

• Ride in severe off-road terrain 

• Ride fast, in competition, or 

“downhill” 

• Ride in an unusual manner 

Each of these uses adds to the stress 

on each part of your bicycle. High 

stress can cause the frame or part to 

break and increases your risk of injury. 

To decrease your risk of injury, use 

your bicycle correctly. 

Riding instructions 

Use Your Brakes Carefully 

Always ride with a safe distance between you 

and other vehicles or objects; use your brakes. 

Adjust distances and brake forces for the 

conditions in which you ride. 

If your bicycle has a “coaster brake” activated 

by the pedals, you apply the brake by pedalling 

backwards. To apply the greatest force, the 

crankarms should be horizontal when you apply 

the brake. The pedal will rotate before the brake 

starts to work, so start to apply the brake with 

the rear pedal slightly higher than this position. 

If your bicycle has two hand brakes, apply 

the two brakes at the same time. Over-use or 

incorrect use of a front-wheel brake could cause 

the rear wheel to lift from the ground which 

could decrease your control (Figure 11). 

Figure 11: 

Do not over-use the 

front-wheel brake; the 

rear wheel can lift and 

cause you to lose control 

For children, the limit of speed is much lower. 

WARNING: Training wheels prevent 

the regular lean of a bicycle when the 

rider makes a turn. If the child turns 

too quickly, the bicycle can fall. With 

training wheels, do not permit children 

to ride fast or turn suddenly. 

WARNING: Brake force applied to 

the front-wheel suddenly or too fully 

could lift the rear wheel off the ground 

or cause the front wheel to slide out 

from below you. This could decrease 

your control and cause you to fall. 

Apply the two brakes at the same time 

and move rearward on your bicycle. 


We make bicycles so that the left brake-lever 

controls the front-wheel brake. To change your 

bicycle so that the right brake-lever controls the 

front-wheel brake, see Chapter 3. 

Many models of modern brakes are very powerful; 

they are made to stop a bicycle in wet or muddy 

conditions. If you think your brakes are too 

powerful, transport your bicycle to your dealer for 

adjustment or replacement of the brake system. 

Change Gears Correctly 

You can change to the gear combination that 

is most comfortable for the conditions, a gear 

that lets you to pedal at a constant rate. Gear 

change systems are of two types: derailleur 

(external) and internal. 

To change gears with a derailleur 

The left shift-lever controls the front derailleur and 

the right shift-lever controls the rear derailleur. 

Use only one shift-lever at a time. Change gears 

only when the pedals and chain move forward. 

When you change gears, decrease the force on 

the pedals to change gears quickly and smoothly, 

to decrease chain and gear wear, and to prevent 

bent chains, derailleurs, or chainrings. Do not 

change gears when you ride over bumps; the 

chain could miss a gear or fall off. 

With modern, indexed gear-change systems, a 

movement of the shift-lever from one position 

to the other position (or movement of the shiftlever 

to the “shift” position) will promptly move 

the chain to a different gear. 

Bicycles that have STI road shift-levers and 

three chainrings can change front gears better 

if you “hold” the lever for a moment before 

you release the left shift-lever. This is most 

important when you change gears from the 

smallest chainring to the middle chainring. 

To change gears with internal gears 

To change gears, move the pedals to the rear 

or do not move them. If you must change gears 

while you pedal, decrease your pressure on the 

pedals. Too much tension on the chain prevents 

the correct operation of the gear change 

mechanism and could damage the mechanism. 

Use Pedal Systems Carefully 

If your feet are secured to the pedals, the 

connection can allow you to pedal more 

efficiently, apply greater power to the pedals, 

or increase your control of the bicycle. Some 

bicycles are equipped with one of these systems: 

• Toe-clips and straps attach your feet to the 

pedals with a strap with a locator that wraps 

up and in front of your toes. 

• Clipless pedals use a spring-loaded mechanism 

to engage a cleat, a small plate attached to the 

bottom of a special cycling shoe. 

If you choose to ride with one of these systems, 

practice entry and exit from the pedal before 

you ride. Keep the pedals and your shoes 

clean and free of debris that could interfere 

with the pedal system. Make sure any release 

mechanism operates correctly, and adjust it for 

your riding. 

If you are not familiar with the pedals or the 

correct procedures, read the information on the 

Owner’s Manual CD or consult your dealer. 

WARNING: A pedal system that 

operates incorrectly could cause your 

feet to become trapped or allow your 

feet to release from the pedal 

unexpectedly, causing you to lose 

control. Make sure you are familiar 

with the pedal system before riding, 

and that the pedal system operates 

correctly. 

11 


Safeguard Your Bicycle 

Prevent Theft of Your Bicycle 

Purchase and use a lock that resists bolt 

cutters and saws. Do not park your bicycle 

unless it is locked. Also, get a licence for your 

bicycle from your local police department. 

Write down your serial number 

Write the serial number of your bicycle in the 

front of this manual, and put the manual in a safe 

location. Then, complete our on-line registration; 

we will keep the serial number on file. 

Safely Park Your Bicycle 

When you complete a ride, put your bicycle in 

a location where it will not be an obstruction. 

Make sure it can not fall. Do not put down 

your bicycle on its derailleurs, because you 

could bend the rear derailleur or get dirt on the 

drivetrain. Do not let your bicycle fall, because 

this could cut the handlebar grip or cause 

damage to the saddle. Incorrect use of a bicycle 

rack could bend your wheels. 

Include Repair Items when You Ride 

When you ride, include a pump, a spare inner 

tube, patch kit, and tools so you can repair your 

bicycle if it has a flat tire of other mechanical 

problem. If you ride at night, include spare 

bulbs and batteries for your lights. 

Only Install Compatible Accessories 

Not all accessories are compatible or safe, so 

only add accessories that have the approval 

of the manufacturer. As an example, a child 

carrier puts weight high on the bicycle. This 

can make your bicycle less stable. Although 

some child carriers are compatible with some 

of our bicycles, always check with your dealer 

before making any change to your bicycle. 

As another example, clamping anything on a 

carbon part can weaken or damage the part. 

Park your bicycle carefully 

When your bicycle is not in use, park it where 

it has protection from dangerous conditions. 

Do not park your bicycle near electric motors; 

ozone from motors can cause damage to rubber 

and paint. Rain or snow can cause the metal 

on your bicycle to corrode. Ultraviolet radiation 

from the sun can fade the paint or crack the 

rubber or plastic on your bicycle. 

Before you put away your bicycle for an extended 

time, clean and service it and apply frame polish. 

Hang your bicycle off the ground with the 

tires at approximately half the recommended 

inflation pressure. Before you ride your bicycle 

again, be sure it operates correctly. 

WARNING: Any modification can 

make your frame, fork, or part unsafe. 

Do not sand, drill, file, remove 

redundant retention devices, install 

incompatible forks, or make other 

modifications. A component that is not 

approved or assembly that is not 

correct can put high stress on your 

bicycle or components. A frame, fork, 

or component with modifications could 

decrease your control and cause you to 

fall. Before you add an accessory to 

your bicycle or change a part of your 

bicycle, speak to your dealer. 


Clean Your Bicycle 

If your frame or a component is not clean, clean 

it with a soft, moist cloth and bicycle cleaner or 

a solution of dish soap and water. Do not use 

industrial solvents or harsh chemicals. They can 

cause damage to the paint or moving parts. 

Each three months, clean and polish the frame 

finish. Some finishes do not require polish. If 

you are not certain, consult your dealer. 

Avoid Incidental Damage 

to Your Bicycle 

Do not clamp the frame during 

transportation or repair 

Do not clamp the bicycle frame. This can cause 

damage to the paint or even dent, crush, or 

break the light-weight frame-tubes used in 

high-performance bicycle frames. 

When holding the bicycle for repairs, clamp 

the seatpost. When holding the bicycle for 

transportation on a motor vehicle, clamp the 

bicycle by the wheels or fork tips. 

Prevent damage to your bicycle 

when you ship it 

If you need to package your bike for travel, 

always use a hard case or carton that will 

protect your bicycle. Attach pads to all the 

frame and fork tubes, and use a rigid block to 

protect the fork tips and maintain structural 

support of the fork blades. If the bicycle is not 

packaged correctly, it could be easily damaged 

in transit. If you are not sure, ask your dealer to 

package your bicycle for you. 

Chapter 2: Maintenance 

This maintenance schedule is based on usual 

use. If you ride your bicycle more than average, 

or in rain, snow, or off-road conditions, 

do maintenance on your bicycle more 

frequently than the schedule recommends. 

If a part malfunctions, examine and repair it 

immediately, or speak to your dealer. If a part 

has wear or damage, replace it before you ride 

your bicycle again. 

After initial use, new bicycles should be 

examined. As an example, cables stretch 

through use, and this can affect the operation 

of the shifting or brakes. Approximately two 

months after you purchase your new bicycle, 

have your dealer fully examine your bicycle. 

You should have your dealer fully service your 

bicycle each year, even if you did not ride it much. 

Tools for Bicycle Maintenance 

• Torque wrench with lb•in or N•m gradations 

• 2, 4, 5, 6, 8 mm allen wrenches 

• 9, 10, 15 mm open-end wrenches 

• 15 mm box end wrench 

• Socket wrench, 14, 15, and 19 mm socket 

• T25 Torx wrench 

• No. 1 phillips-head screwdriver 

• Bicycle inner tube patch-kit, tire-pump with 

gauge, and tire levers 

• Special high-pressure air-pump for a rear 

shock or a suspension fork 

Not all these tools are necessary for all bicycles 

13 

Chapter 2: Maintenance

Maintenance Schedule 

Each Ride 

Examine the frame and fork...................................4 

Examine the wheels.................................................6 

Examine the tire inflation........................................6 

Examine the brakes...................................................6 

Examine the chain..................................................... 7 

Examine the handlebar and stem......................... 7 

Examine the saddle and seatpost........................ 7 

Examine the suspension ........................................8 

Examine the lights and reflectors.........................8 

Each Week 

Clean your bicycle with a moist cloth................13 

Examine for loose spokes.....................................26 

Examine suspension fork bolts...........................33 

Examine rear suspension bolts...........................33 

Each Year 

Apply lubricant to handlebar stem....................35 

Apply lubricant to seatpost..................................35 

Replace grease in the pedal threads 

and bearings.............................................................35 

Replace grease in the bottom 

bracket bearings......................................................35 

Replace grease in the wheel bearings...............36 

Replace grease in the headset bearings...........36 

Apply lubricant to wheel quick-releases..........36 

Replace grease and oil in the 

suspension forks......................................................36 

Each Month 

Examine the chainguard 

(accessories)............................................................33 

Examine cables for wear....................................... 19 

Examine the operation of shift-levers.........19-22 

Examine derailleurs..........................................20-21 

Apply lubricant to derailleurs..............................36 

Examine the internal shift system......................22 

Examine headset bearing adjustment.............. 18 

Examine brake-pads...............................................23 

Examine brake bolts...............................................23 

Examine accessory bolts.......................................33 

Examine wheel bearing adjustment..................26 

Examine rims for wear...........................................26 

Apply lubricant to suspension forks..................36 

Each Three Months 

Clean and polish finish...........................................13 

Examine the crankarms and bottom bracket.. 18 

Apply lubricant to brake-levers ..........................36 

Chapter 2: Maintenance 14

Chapter 3: Adjustment 

This chapter gives instructions for adjustment 

of the parts of a bicycle. They are written for a 

person familiar with the basics of mechanics 

and with proper tools. Because your safety 

depends on the correct maintenance of your 

bicycle, we recommend you have your dealer 

service your bicycle. After a repair, examine 

your bicycle as shown in the “Before Each Ride” 

checklist in Chapter 1. 

WARNING: A bicycle that 

malfunctions could decrease your 

control and cause you to fall. Fully 

examine all of your bicycle before each 

ride. If there is a problem, do not ride 

your bicycle: repair your bicycle or 

transport it to your dealer for service. 

A Word about Torque Specifications 

Torque is a measure of the tightness of a screw 

or bolt. Use a torque wrench to make sure you 

do not apply too much torque, which can cause 

damage or break the part. However, a fastener 

that is too loose can also cause damage. 

After you use the torque wrench, examine 

the function of the part with the tests in 

this chapter. If a part does not have the 

correct function when it is tightened to the 

recommended torque, transport your bicycle to 

your dealer for repair. If your bicycle has parts 

with fasteners not listed in this manual, see the 

more extensive information on the Owner’s 

Manual CD, or consult your dealer. 

WARNING: Incorrect torque can 

cause damage or break a part. Use a 

torque wrench to correctly tighten a 

part, or transport the bicycle to your 

dealer for service. 

Handlebar 

You hold the handlebar to steer the bicycle. Its 

position is important for control and comfort. 

To adjust the angle of the handlebar 

1. Decrease the tightness of the handlebarclamp 

bolt(s) on the stem (Figure 12 and 

Figure 13). 

2. Move the handlebar. Make sure it is in the 

center of stem. 

3. Tighten the handlebar-clamp bolt(s) on your 

type of stem: 

• Welded stems: 100-120 lb•in (11.3-13.6 N•m) 

• Forged stems: 150-180 lb•in (17-20.3 N•m) 

Stem 

The stem connects the handlebar to the fork 

There are two types of stems: 

• Direct-connect (Figure 12) 

• Quill-type (Figure 13) 

WARNING: Overtightening of stem 

bolts can cause damage to the steerer 

of the fork, possibly causing it to break. 

If the steerer breaks, you could fall. 

1 

3 

1 

2 

4 

2 

Figure 12: 

Direct-connect stem 

1. Steerer-clamp bolts 

2. Handlebar-clamp bolts 

Figure 13: 

Adjustable-rise quill stem 

1. Quill 

2. Handlebar-clamp bolts 

3. Expander bolt 

4. Angle adjustment bolt 

15 

Chapter 3: Adjustment

To align or adjust a quill-type stem 

To adjust the height of the adjustable-rise stem 

in Figure 13, first change the stem angle (see 

the subsequent section), which gives access to 

the expander bolt. 

1. Decrease the tightness of the expander bolt 

two to three turns. 

2. The stem is held by the stem wedge. To 

decrease the tightness of the stem wedge, 

tap the top of the expander bolt with a mallet 

that has a wood or plastic face. 

3. Adjust the handlebar to the necessary height, 

but the minimum-insertion mark must be 

in the frame (Figure 13). A minimum of 2 3/4 ” 

(70 mm) of the stem quill should always be 

in the frame. 

4. Tighten the expander bolt to 120 lb•in 

(13.6 N•m). 

WARNING: A quill stem that is too 

high can cause damage to your bicycle, 

decrease your control, and cause you to 

fall. Make sure the minimum-insertion 

mark (Figure 14) is in the frame. 

To adjust the height of a direct-connect stem 

To adjust the height of the handlebar with a 

direct-connect stem, the headset bearing must 

be adjusted. Special tools and training are 

necessary for bearing adjustment, so only your 

dealer should do this. 

Minimum spacers with a direct-connect stem 

On a bicycle with an aluminum steerer, there 

should be at least one 5mm spacer under 

the direct-connect stem. On a bicycle with a 

carbon steerer, there should be at least one 

5mm spacer below the stem and also one 5mm 

spacer above the stem (Figure 15). 

WARNING: Incorrect or missing 

spacers can cause damage to the 

steerer of the fork, possibly causing it 

to break. If the steerer breaks, you 

could fall. 

Figure 15: 

Required spacers above 

and below a directconnect 

stem 

1 

Figure 14: 

Minimum-insertion mark 

on quill stem 

1. The bicycle frame 

should hide this line 

To change the angle of an adjustable-rise stem 

1. Decrease the tightness of the angle 

adjustment bolt (Figure 13) until the stem 

angle can be changed. 

2. Move the stem to the necessary angle. 

3. Tighten the angle-adjustment bolt to 

150-170 lb•in (17-20.3 N•m). 

To align a direct-connect stem 

1. Decrease the tightness of the steerer-clamp 

bolts two to three turns. 

2. Align the stem with the front wheel. 

3. Tighten the steerer-clamp bolts to 

100-120 lb•in (11.3-13.6 N•m). 

Chapter 3: Adjustment 16

Saddle 

The saddle supports most of your weight on the 

bicycle. It also controls the extension of your 

legs and the fore-aft position of your body on the 

bicycle. With correct adjustment, your bicycle 

saddle will be comfortable—even for long rides. 

WARNING: A saddle that is 

adjusted incorrectly or does not 

correctly support your pelvic area can 

cause injury to your nerves or blood 

vessels. If your saddle causes pain or 

numbness, adjust the saddle position. 

If your saddle still causes pain or 

numbness, speak to your dealer about 

a change in your position or a saddle 

that is more comfortable. 

Adjust the saddle angle to your preference. 

First, try to ride with the top of the saddle 

parallel to the ground. For bicycles with rear 

suspension, move the nose of the saddle down 

slightly; when your body weight compresses the 

rear shock, the saddle will be level. The saddle 

can also be moved forward or rearward along 

the seatpost to add comfort and to adjust the 

distance from the handlebar, but only with the 

flat portion of the rails (Figure 17) completely 

within the seat clamp. 

To adjust the angle of the saddle 

1. Decrease the tightness of the seat-clamp bolt 

(Figure 15) until the saddle can be moved. 

• Some seatposts use two bolts. To make the 

adjustment, decrease the tightness of one 

bolt and then tighten the other bolt. 

2. Put a straight edge, bubble level, or ruler 

across the top of the saddle to better see the 

angle of the saddle. 

3. Adjust the saddle and tighten the saddleclamp 

bolt for your type of seatpost: 

• One bolt that uses a 13 or 14 mm open-end 

wrench: 180-220 lb•in (20.3-24.9 N•m) 

• One bolt across the seatpost head that uses 

a 5 mm allen wrench (Figure 17): 120-130 

lb•in (13.6-14.7 N•m) 

• One bolt that uses a 6 mm allen wrench: 

150-250 lb•in (17-28.3 N•m) 

• Two bolts that use a 4 mm allen wrench: 45- 

60 lb•in (5-6.8 N•m) 

• Two bolts that use a 5 mm allen wrench: 

80-125 lb•in (9.6-14.1 N•m) 

1 

2 

3 

Figure 15: 

Seatpost parts 

1. Seat-clamp bolts 

2. Seatpost 

3. Seatpost binder bolt 

WARNING: An incorrectly positioned 

seatpost can break the saddle rails or 

the seat-clamp bolt, and cause you to 

fall. Only clamp the flat portion of the 

saddle rails in the seat clamp. 

Some saddles have exposed coil springs. If you 

attach a child carrier to the rear of the bicycle, 

1 

2 

Figure 17: 

Bontrager seatpost 

1. Flat portion of the 

saddle rails 

2. Seat-clamp bolt 

exposed springs could injure a child’s fingers. 

Cover the springs or use a saddle that does not 

have springs. 

Do not close the seatpost binder with the 

seatpost out of the frame. 

17 


To adjust the height of the saddle 

1. While someone holds the bicycle, sit on the 

saddle without shoes, with the crank arms 

parallel to the seat tube. 

2. Decrease the tightness of the seatpost binder 

bolt or quick-release. 

3. Put your heel on the bottom pedal. Extend 

the seatpost until your extended leg is 

straight (Figure 18). 

• When you wear shoes there should be a small 

bend in your knee in the correct position; with 

the ball of your foot on the pedal. 

4. Make sure the minimum-insertion mark on 

the seatpost (Figure 19) can not be seen 

above the bicycle frame. 

5. Lock the seatpost quick-release, or tighten the 

seatpost-clamp bolt to 40-60 lb•in (4.5-6.8 

Nm) for a 5mm bolt, or 60-80 lb•in (6.8-9 

N•m) for a 6mm bolt. 

Figure 18: 

Leg extension with 

correct saddle height 

Figure 19: 

Minimum-insertion mark 

on seatpost 

1. The bicycle frame 

should hide this line 

Headset 

The headset is the bearing system that allows 

the handlebar and fork to turn. Each month 

examine the headset. 

To examine the headset adjustment 

1. Apply the front brake while you rock the 

bicycle forward and rearward. 

2. Lift the front wheel off the ground. Slowly turn 

the fork and handlebar to the right and left. 

If the headset bearings move in the frame or 

do not turn smoothly, do not ride your bicycle. 

Transport your bicycle to your dealer for repair. 

The adjustment of the headset makes special 

tools and training necessary. Only your dealer 

should adjust bearings. 

Crankarms 

The crankarms connect the pedals to the bottom 

bracket. They transmit power from the rider 

to the rear wheel, and on some bicycles they 

provide braking power. 

The length of some crankarms can be adjusted. 

To change the crankarm length, remove the 

pedals, then install the pedals into the other 

position. To remove or install the pedals, see 

the Pedals section. 

Bottom Bracket 

The bottom bracket is the bearing system that 

allows the crankarms to turn in the frame. 

1 

WARNING: A seatpost that is too 

high can cause damage to your 

bicycle or decrease your control and 

cause you to fall. Make sure the 

minimum-insertion mark (Figure 19) 

is in the frame. 

To examine the bearing adjustment 

1. Lift the chain from the chainrings. 

2. Turn the crankarms so that one of the 

crankarms is parallel to the seat tube. 

3. Put one hand on the crankarm and one hand 

on the seat tube. Try to move the crankarm 

to and from the seat tube. 

4. Turn the crankarms. 


If the crank feels or sounds loose, if the 

movement stops suddenly, or you hear a 

grinding noise that comes from the bearings, 

have your dealer service the bottom bracket. The 

adjustment of the bottom bracket makes special 

tools and training necessary. Only your dealer 

should adjust bearings. 

Pedals 

The pedals hold your feet so that you can rotate 

the crankarms. They are threaded into the 

crankarms. The right pedal is threaded in the 

usual direction, but the left pedal is threaded in 

the opposite direction. Tighten pedals into the 

crankarms to 350-380 lb•in (40.2-42.9 N•m). 

To examine the pedal bearing adjustment 

1. Hold the crankarm with one hand and with the 

other hand, try to move the pedal up and down. 

2. Turn the pedal. 

If the pedals move on the crankarms or do not 

turn smoothly, do not ride your bicycle. The 

adjustment of the pedals makes special tools 

and training necessary. Only your dealer should 

adjust bearings. 

To adjust the release force on clipless pedals, 

refer to the manual on the CD that came with 

your bicycle, or speak to your dealer. 

Chain 

The chain connects the crankarms (and 

chainring) to the rear wheel. 

On a bicycle with a rear derailleur, the chain 

tension is maintained by the derailleur. On a 

bicycle without a rear derailleur, correct chain 

tension is required to prevent the chain from 

falling off. Chain tension is adjusted by moving 

the rear wheel or adjusting the dropouts. If your 

bicycle has adjustable dropouts, view the CD for 

instructions or speak to your dealer. 

To adjust the chain tension 

1. Slightly decrease the tightness of the rear 

wheel axle nut on one side of the wheel, then 

on the other side of the wheel. 

• If you fully decrease the tightness of the 

axle nut on one side before you decrease the 

tightness of the other axle nut, you can cause 

the bearings to come out of adjustment. 

2. Slide the wheel rearward to tighten the chain. 

Put the wheel in the center of the frame. 

3. Complete the wheel installation (see Wheels). 

Cables 

On a bicycle with either shifters or hand 

brakes, a cable connects the control lever to 

the item it controls. 

Each month examine the cables for kinks, rust, 

broken strands, or frayed ends. Also examine 

the cable-housing for loose wire strands, bent 

ends, cuts, and worn areas. If you think there is a 

problem with a cable or housing, do not ride your 

bicycle. Follow the instructions to replace the 

cable, or have your dealer repair your bicycle. 

Shift-levers 

A shift-lever controls a derailleur or internal 

hub shifting mechanism. The position of a shiftlever 

can be adjusted on the handlebar. There 

are many types of shift-levers; if a shift-lever 

on your bicycle is not covered here, see the 

Owner’s Manual CD or consult your dealer. 

To adjust the position of a lever 

1. Find the lever-clamp bolt (Figure 20 and 

Figure 21). 

2. Decrease the tightness of the clamp bolt two 

to three turns. 

3. Move the lever. 

4. Tighten the clamp bolt to 

53-69 lb•in (6.0-7.8 N•m). 

19 


Figure 20: 

Lever-clamp bolt, road 

lever 

1. Lever-clamp bolt 

1 

2 

Figure 22: 

Front derailleur 

1. Cable 

2. Limit-screws 

3. Cable-clamp bolt 

3 

1 

1 

4 

3 

2 

Front Derailleur 

Figure 21: 

Lever-clamp bolt, 

mountain lever 


2. Reach-adjustment 

screw 

3. Barrel-adjuster 

4. Cable 

With bicycles that have more than one chainring, 

the front derailleur makes the gear changes. 

To adjust the small-chainring position 

1. Move the chain to the smallest front chainring 

and the largest rear cog. 

2. Decrease the tightness of the cable-clamp 

bolt (Figure 22) until the cable is free. 

3. Turn the low-gear limit-screw (identified 

with an “L”) until the inner chain-guide 

of the derailleur is approximately 0.5 mm 

from the chain. 

4. Pull on the cable end, and move the left shiftlever 

to the small-chainring position. 

5. On the shift-lever or the down tube of the 

frame, fully turn clockwise the derailleurcable 

barrel-adjuster. 

6. Put the cable in the groove found near the 

derailleur-cable-clamp bolt, pull the cable 

tight, and tighten the clamp bolt to 

44-60 lb•in (5.0-6.8 N•m). 

To adjust the large-chainring position 

1. Move the rear derailleur to the smallest rear cog. 

2. Turn the high-gear limit-screw (identified 

with an “H”) counterclockwise until it can 

not stop the movement of the derailleur. 

3. Turn the crankarms with your hand. Use the 

shift-lever to carefully move the chain to the 

outside chainring. 

4. Move the outer chain-guide approximately 

0.5 mm from the chain. 

5. Tighten the high-gear limit-screw until it resists. 

• If you have turned the screw too far, the front 

derailleur will move to the small chainring. 

6. Change gears to all the gear combinations. Make 

sure the chain does not come off when you 

move the shift-lever. Make sure the derailleur 

cage does not rub on part of the crankarms. 

To adjust the middle-gear position with three 

chainrings 

1. Move the chain to the largest front chainring 

and the smallest rear cog. 

2. Turn the cable barrel-adjuster (on the down 

tube, or on the lever) to change the cable 

tension and align the inner cage of the 

derailleur until it touches the chain. 

3. Change gears to all the gear combinations to 

make sure the chain smoothly lines up with 

all the chainrings. 

Some front shift-levers have a ‘tab.’ Slightly 

move the lever to a lower gear and the 

derailleur will move in slightly so it does not 

touch the chain. 


Rear Derailleur 

On bicycles with more than one cog on the rear 

wheel, the rear derailleur makes the gear changes. 

To adjust the small-cog position 

1. Move the chain to the smallest rear cog and 

the largest front chainring. 

2. Decrease the tightness of the cable-clamp 

bolt (Figure 23) until the cable is free. 

3. Move behind the bicycle to see that the 

smallest rear cog, the chain, and the two 

derailleur pulleys are in alignment. 

4. If they are not in alignment, turn the highgear 

limit-screw (usually identified with an 

“H”,) until they are in alignment. 

5. While you pull on the cable, move the shiftlever 

to the small-cog position. 

6. On the shift-lever or down tube, fully 

turn clockwise the barrel-adjuster. Fully 

turn clockwise the barrel-adjuster on 

the rear derailleur, then turn it one turn 

counterclockwise. 

7. Put the cable into the clamp-bolt groove on 

the rear derailleur, pull the derailleur cable 

tight, and tighten the cable-clamp bolt to 44- 

60 lb•in (5.0-6.8 N•m). 

1 

2 

3 

4 

Figure 23: 

Rear derailleur 

1. Limit-screws 



4. Cable 

To adjust the large-cog position 

1. Turn the low-gear limit-screw on the rear 

derailleur (usually identified with an “L”) 

counterclockwise until the derailleur can 

move freely. 

2. Carefully move the chain to the smallest front 

chainring and the largest rear cog. 

• Do not move the rear derailleur too far. The 

chain can be caught between the large cog 

and the spokes. 

3. Move the rear derailleur pulleys in alignment 

with the largest cog. 

4. Turn the low-gear limit-screw clockwise until 

it does not turn easily. 

• If you have turned it too far, the derailleur 

will move to the outside of the bicycle. 

5. Change gears to all the gear combinations. 

Make sure the chain does not come off when 

you change gears. 

To align the index system 

1. Move the chain to the largest front chainring 

and the smallest rear cog. 

2. Move the rear shift-lever for one click. 

3. Make sure the chain moves smoothly to the 

second-smallest gear. 

• If the chain makes too much noise or does 

not change gears, slightly turn the barreladjuster. 

Change the gear again and make 

sure the change is smooth. 

• If the chain moves to the third smallest gear, 

turn clockwise the barrel-adjuster until the 

derailleur pulleys align with the secondsmallest 

gear. 

4. Change gears to all the gear combinations to 

make sure the chain smoothly lines up with 

each of the rear cogs. 

If the derailleur can not be adjusted correctly, 

the derailleur hanger could be out of alignment. 

Transport your bicycle to your dealer for repair. 

21 


Internal Gear Systems 

These systems change gears with a mechanism 

that is in the rear hub. 

To adjust a Nexus 4, 7, or 8-speed systems 

1. Turn the shift-lever to the fourth-gear position. 

2. Align the indicator on the rear-hub pulley 

(Figure 24) with the cog joint bracket. 

3. If the red lines are not in alignment, turn the 

barrel-adjuster until they are in alignment. 

4. Move the shift-lever to first gear. Then move the 

lever to fourth gear. Examine the adjustment. 

3 

2 

1 

Figure 24: 

Nexus rear hub 

1. Pulley 

2. Cog joint bracket 


Brakes 

The brake system allows you to slow or stop 

your bicycle. This operation is critical to your 

safety. The brake system is not easy to adjust 

without the correct tools and training. It is 

strongly recommended that only your dealer 

adjust a brake. If more aid is necessary, speak 

to your dealer. 

Types of brakes 

Different types of bicycles have different types 

of brakes. The brake types can be divided into 

three types: 

• Hub brake: a “coaster” brake or drum brake, 

where the brake mechanism is inside the hub 

(Figure 26). A hub brake can be controlled by 

a hand lever, or by the pedals. 

Figure 26: 

Coaster brake 

To adjust a 3-speed system 

1. Turn the shift-lever to the second-gear 

position. 

2. Align the indicator on the bell crank window 

with the line on the push rod (Figure 25). 

3. If the indicators are not in alignment, turn the 

barrel-adjuster until they are in alignment. 

4. Move the shift-lever to first gear. Then move 

the lever to second. Examine the adjustment. 

1 

Figure 25: 

Three-speed rear hub 

1. Bell crank window 

• Rim brake: brake pads apply pressure to the 

rim. The pressure is controlled with a hand 

lever that is connected to the brake by a cable. 

Examples include direct-pull or V-type brakes 

(Figure 27), cantilever brakes (Figure 28), and 

road or caliper brakes (Figure 29). 

The rim brake system includes these parts: 

• Brake 

• Brake pads 

• Rim 

• Brake lever 

• Brake cable and housing 

• Brake modulator- some front direct-pull 

brakes are equipped with a brake modulator, 

or “Power modulator.” This device includes 

a small spring in the pipe (Figure 27) that 

changes the way the brake works during the 


3 

4 

initial contact between the brake pads and 

the rim. As you squeeze the brake lever, you 

must move the lever to compress the spring 

before you can apply full braking power to the 

rim. This changes the way the brake feels, and 

also makes the adjustment somewhat more 

sensitive: if your brake with a modulator does 

not pass inspection, transport your bicycle to 

your dealer for adjustment. 

5 

6 

7 

1 

2 1 

Figure 27: 

Direct-pull brake 


2. No touch 

3. Pipe 

4. Link 

5. Pad-clamp bolt 

6. Center-adjust screw 

7. Arm-clamp bolt 

Figure 28: 

Cantilever brake 

1. Linkwire 

2. Arm-clamp bolt 



• Disc brake: brake pads apply pressure to a 

disc mounted to the hub of the wheel (Figure 

30). The pressure is controlled with a hand 

lever that is connected to the brake by a 

cable or a hydraulic hose. 

3 

2 

1 

Figure 31: 

Disc brake parts 

1. Attachment bolts 

2. Fixed-pad adjuster 


Inspection 

Before every ride, perform the brake check listed 

in Chapter 1. Each month examine all the brake 

bolts, and examine the brake-pads for worn areas: 

• Rim brakes: If the grooves in the brake-pad 

surface are less than 2 mm deep (or 1 mm deep 

for direct-pull brakes) replace the brake-pads. 

• Disc brakes: Replace brake-pads that are 

thinner than 1.0 mm. 

2 3 

4 

To adjust the clearance between the 

brake-pads and the rim 

1 

2 

3 

Figure 29: 

Caliper brake 



3. Brake release lever 


1. Turn the barrel-adjuster. 

• For most direct-pull (Figure 27) or cantilever 

(Figure 28) systems the barrel-adjuster is on 

the lever. For most road caliper systems (Figure 

29) the barrel-adjuster is on the brake itself. 

• To increase the clearance between the 

brake-pad and rim, turn the barrel-adjuster 

4 

clockwise. To decrease the clearance, turn 

the barrel-adjuster counterclockwise. 

2. If the brake-pads can not be adjusted correctly 

with the barrel-adjuster, further work is required: 

• Direct-pull and caliper: Decrease the 

tightness of the cable-clamp bolt and attach 

the cable again. 

• Cantilever: Re-adjust the brake-pad alignment, 

or transport the bicycle to your dealer. 

23 


To put a direct-pull, cantilever, or road brake in 

the center 

1. Turn the center-adjust screw (Figure 27, 

Figure 28, or Figure 29) in small increments. 

2. If the brake has two center-adjust screws, 

adjust the overall spring tension while you 

put the brake in the center. 

To adjust the alignment of the brake-pads on 

a rim brake 

1. Decrease the tightness of the brake-padclamp 

bolt. 

2. Align the brake-pads as shown in Figure 30. 

Tighten the brake-pad-clamp bolts: 

• Caliper: 40-60 lb•in (4.5-6.8 N•m) 

• Direct-pull or cantilever: 70-80 lb•in (7.9-9 N•m) 

3. After you adjust the brakes, examine them. 

Pull the levers. Make sure the cable does not 

slide through the cable clamp, the brakepads 

engage the rim at ninety-degree angles, 

and the brake-pads do not touch the tire. 

3 

1 

2 

4 

Figure 30: 

Brake pad alignment 

1. Brake-pad in alignment 

with rim surface 

2. Pad and rim should be 

parallel 

3. Direction in which the 

rim turns 

4. 0.5-1.0 mm toe-in 

To release the brake for wheel removal 

• For most road calipers, lift the brake release 

lever (Figure 29) to the UP position. To close, 

turn the lever to the DOWN position. 

• For Campagnolo levers, push the release 

button that is at the top of the lever. Slightly 

pull the lever and push the button until it 

aligns with the lever body. Release the lever. 

To close the brake, follow the instructions in 

the opposite sequence. 

• For cantilever brakes, release the linkwire 

(Figure 28). With one hand, push the brakepads 

fully against the rim. With the other hand, 

pull the leaded end of the linkwire from the fork 

on the brake-arm. Release the brake-pads. 



• For direct-pull brakes, disconnect the pipe 

from the link (Figure 27). With one hand, 

push the pads fully against the rim. With the 

other hand, pull the pipe away from the link, 

and lift the pipe. Release the brake-pads. 



• For internal or drum brakes, to remove the 

rear wheel, first disconnect the gear and 

brake cables. 

To disconnect the brake cable, push the 

cable-carrier arm forward, and the cableclamp 

bolt rearward, so the bolt aligns with 

the larger diameter hole in the carrier. 

Pull the cable-clamp bolt out to remove it from 

the carrier. Slide the brake-cable stop forward to 

remove it from the brake-arm. Decrease the 

tightness of the brake-strap bolt. 

To disconnect the gear cable, put the shiftlever 

in first gear. Pull the cable-housing out 

of the gear-cable housing-stop. Turn the 

gear-cable-clamp bolt until the washer flats 

align with the slit in the cog joint bracket. 

Remove the cable. 


To align a hydraulic disc brake 

1. Decrease the tightness of the brakeattachment 

bolts (Figure 31). 

2. Fully pull the lever, and tighten the bolts to 

100-110 lb•in (11.3-12.4 N•m). 

To align a cable-actuated disc brake 

There are three parts to this procedure: 

A. To adjust the clearance between the right 

brake-pad and the disc 

1. Turn the fixed-pad adjuster (Figure 31). 

2. If the pads can not be adjusted correctly 

in this manner, follow the instructions “To 

adjust the clearance between the left brakepad 

and the disc,” and then adjust the right 

pad. 

Brake-levers 

A brake lever allows you to control a brake. The 

position of the lever on the handlebar should 

allow you to use the brake with a minimum 

amount of effort or movement. 

There are several types of brake levers: 

• Road lever: for drop-type handlebar 

(Figure 32). 

• Mountain lever: for flat or mountain-type 

handlebar (Figure 33). 

• Middle-bar brake lever: for drop-type 

handlebar (Figure 34). This type of lever is 

used with a road lever to provide additional 

hand positions. 

B. To adjust the clearance between the left 

brake-pad and the disc 

1. Turn the cable barrel-adjuster: clockwise to 

increase clearance, counterclockwise to 

decrease clearance. 

2. If the pads can not be adjusted correctly, 

decrease the tightness of the cable-clamp 

bolt and re-attach the cable. Tighten the 

cable-clamp bolt to 50-70 lb•in (5.7-7.9 N•m). 

3. After adjustment, turn the lock-nut clockwise 

to make sure the adjustment does not change. 

C. To align the brake with the disc 

1. Decrease the tightness of the brakeattachment 

bolts. 

2. Slide a business card or other thin object 

between the right brake-pad and the disc. 

3. Pull the lever fully, and tighten the bolts to 

100-110 lb•in (11.3-12.4 N•m). 

To remove disc brake-pads 

1. Remove the wheel. 

2. With your fingers or pliers, hold the installation 

tang of the brake-pad and pull out the pad. 

2 

1 

1 

1 

Figure 32: 

Road lever 


Figure 33: 

Mountain lever 


2. Reach-adjustment 

screw 

Figure 34: 

Middle-bar brake-lever 


25 


To adjust the position of a lever 

1. Find the lever-clamp bolt (Figure 32, Figure 

33, or Figure 34). 

2. Decrease the tightness of the clamp bolt two 

to three turns. 

3. Move the lever. 

4. Tighten the lever-clamp bolt: 

• Road or mountain brake-lever: 53-69 lb•in 

(6.0-7.8 N•m). 

• Middle-bar lever (Figure 34): 20-30 lb•in 

(2.3-3.3 N•m). 

To adjust the reach to the brake-lever 

With some brake-levers, you can adjust the 

reach, the distance from the handlebar to 

the lever. 

1. Find the reach-adjustment screw (Figure 33) 

and turn. To decrease the reach, turn the 

screw clockwise. To increase the reach, turn 

the screw counterclockwise. 

2. If it is necessary after you adjust the reach, 

adjust the brake-pad clearance. 

To change which lever controls the front brake 

1. Release the brake. 

2. Disconnect the brake cables: 

• For a bicycle with a drop-type handlebar, 

remove the handlebar tape. Then disconnect 

each brake cable and fully remove it from the 

lever. 

• For a mountain bicycle, remove the leaded 

end of the cable from the lever. 

3. Install the cables into the opposite levers. 

4. Close the brakes. 

• For a bicycle with a drop-type handlebar, 

replace the handlebar tape. 

5. Examine the brakes as shown in Chapter 1, 

and adjust the brakes as necessary. 

Wheels 

Each month, or whenever you change tires 

or tubes, examine tires for worn areas and 

damage. Make sure rims are clean so that the 

brakes function correctly. Make sure there are 

no loose spokes or spokes with damage so 

that the wheel remains straight and strong. 

Make sure the wheel (hub) bearings are 

correctly adjusted. Make sure a rim strip is 

in the correct location and it fully covers all 

spoke holes or nipples so that it protects the 

inner tube from puncture. 

Once a month, inspect the rims. If the wearindicators 

on the brake surface show the rim is 

worn, or if the brake surface is not flat, replace 

the rim. 

WARNING: Brake-pads remove rim 

material when you apply the brake. If 

the brakes remove too much material 

over time, the rim can become weak 

and break, decrease your control, and 

cause you to fall. Regularly examine 

your rims. Replace a rim that is worn. 

To examine the adjustment of the hub bearings 

1. Lift the end of the bicycle off the ground with 

one hand and try to move the rim from the 

left to the right. Look, feel, and listen for a 

movement in the bearings. 

2. Turn the wheel and listen for a grinding noise 

or other noises that are not usual. 

3. Repeat these procedures for the other wheel. 

If the hub feels loose or makes a grinding 

noise, servicing is necessary. The adjustment 

of the wheel bearings makes special tools and 

training necessary. Only your dealer should 

adjust bearings. 


Wheel Installation 

Bicycles use different types of wheel 

attachment devices. Carefully follow the 

instructions for the device(s) on your bicycle. 

Wheel attachment types (Figure 35): 

• Traditional quick-release 

• Clix quick-release 

• Threaded axle and nut 

• Thru-axle 

1 

2 

3 

4 

Figure 35: 

Types of wheel attachment 

1- Traditional quickrelease 

2- Clix (arrows indicate 

the parts not found on a 

traditional quick-release) 

3- Threaded axle 

4- Thru-axle 

WARNING: A quick-release that is 

not correctly adjusted and closed can 

let the wheel be loose or come off, 

decrease your control, and cause you 

to fall. Make sure the wheels are 

correctly attached before you ride 

your bicycle. 

To install a wheel with a traditional quick-release 

1. Move the lever of the quick-release to the 

OPEN position (Figure 36) and set the wheel 

so it fully touches the inner surfaces of the 

fork ends. 

2. With the lever in the adjustment position, 

tighten the adjustment-nut (Figure 29) until 

it is slightly tight. 

3. Lock the quick-release; with the lever in the 

palm of your hand, move the lever as shown 

in Figure 38 to the CLOSE position (Figure 

40 and Figure 41). When you move the lever 

to the adjustment position, you should feel 

some resistance. 

• Do not turn the lever like a wing-nut to 

tighten it (Figure 39); this will not make 

sufficient force to hold the wheel. 

4. If you can lock the lever with little or 

no resistance, the clamp-force is not 

sufficient. Go back to Step 2 and tighten the 

adjustment-nut. For more information, read 

the actual measurements (below). 

5. Align the levers so they do not touch a part 

of the bicycle or an accessory part (such as 

rack or fenders), and so obstacles in the path 

of the bicycle can not catch the levers. 

6. Make sure you have correctly adjusted and 

locked the quick-release. If the quick-release 

does not pass a test, adjust the quick-release 

again or transport your bicycle to your dealer 

for repair. Do the tests again before you ride. 

7. Make sure you have correctly adjusted and 

locked the quick-release: If the quick-release 

does not pass a test, adjust the quick-release 

or transport your bicycle to your dealer for 

repair. Do the tests again before you ride: 

• Lift your bicycle and hit the top of the tire with 

a solid blow (Figure 42). The wheel should not 

come off, be loose, or move from side to side. 

• Make sure the locked quick-release lever can 

not be turned (Figure 43). 

• When the quick-release is correctly locked, 

the clamp-force is sufficient to cause metalinto-metal 

engagement (embossing) of the 

dropout surfaces. 

• Read the Actual Measurements. 

Actual Measurements 

If more than 45 pounds (200 Newton) 

force is necessary to lock the lever, slightly 

decrease the tightness of the adjustment-nut. 

If less than 12 pounds (53.4 Newton) force is 

necessary to release the lever, slightly tighten 

the adjustment-nut. If necessary, adjust the 

tightness again. 

27 


To remove a wheel with a 

traditional quick-release 

1. Release the quick-release lever; move it to the 

OPEN position (Figure 36). 

2. For the front wheel, decrease the tightness of 

the adjustment-nut; turn it three turns. 

3. Move the wheel out of the fork or the frame. 

Figure 40: 

Front lever position 

2 

1 

Figure 36: 

Quick-release lever 

positions 

1- Released (OPEN) 

2- Adjustment position 

3- Locked (CLOSE) 

Figure 41: 

Rear lever position 

3 

1 

Figure 37: 

Tighten nut 

1. Adjustment-nut 

Figure 42: 


Figure 38: 

Correct lever movement 

Figure 43: 

Make sure the lever does 

not turn 

Figure 39: 

Do not turn the lever 

OPEN 

OPEN 

OPEN 

OPEN 


To install a wheel with a Clix 

There is a difference between a traditional 

quick-release and a Clix quick-release (Figure 

44). With a traditional quick-release, you should 

adjust the clamp-force each time you install the 

wheel. But with the Clix system you should not 

have to adjust when you install the wheel. Clix is 

an integrated system that is adjusted to only one 

fork—to the width of the dropouts (the parts of 

the fork that hold the wheel). 

3 

2 

4 

1 

8 

7 

5 6 

Figure 44: 

Parts of a Clix 

1. Hub 

2. Adjustment-nut 

3. Lock nut 

4. Skewer 

5. Cup 

6. Spring 

7. Lever 

8. Cam follower 

WARNING: A Clix is adjusted for 

only one wheel and fork. A change in 

bicycle, wheel, or fork could cause the 

Clix to let the wheel be loose or come 

off, decrease your control, and cause 

you to fall. Do not move the Clix to a 

different bicycle, wheel, or fork 

without correct adjustment. 

1. With the lever of the Clix quick-release in the 

OPEN position (Figure 45), push together 

the cup and lever (Figure 46) and lower the 

fork on the wheel until the inner surfaces of 

the fork ends touch the wheel. 

• Some forks have special dropouts, so you do 

not have to push together the cup and lever; 

the fork will slide automatically on the wheel. 

2. Lock the Clix; with the lever in the palm of 

your hand, move the lever as shown in Figure 

47 to the CLOSE position. 

• Do not turn the lever like a wing-nut to 

tighten it (Figure 48); this will not make 

sufficient force to hold the wheel. 

3. Align the lever so it does not touch a bicycle 

part or an accessory part (such as rack or 

fenders), and so obstacles in the path of the 

bicycle can not catch the lever. 

4. Make sure you have correctly locked the Clix. 

If the quick-release does not pass a test, 

adjust the quick-release or transport your 

bicycle to your dealer for repair. Do the tests 

again before you ride: 


a solid blow (Figure 49). The wheel should not 

come off, be loose, or move from side to side. 

• Make sure the locked quick-release lever can 

not be turned (Figure 50). 

• If you can lock the lever with little or no 

resistance, the clamp-force is not sufficient. 

• When the Clix is locked, the clamp-force 

is sufficient to cause metal-into-metal 

engagement (embossing) of the 

dropout surfaces. 

• See Actual Measurements on page 28. 

1 

3 

2 

Figure 45: 

Lever positions 

1- Locked (CLOSE) 

2- Adjustment position 

3- Released (OPEN) 

Figure 46: 

Push together the cup 

and lever 

29 


OPEN 

OPEN 

OPEN 

OPEN 

Figure 47: 

Correct lever movement 

Figure 48: 

Do not turn the lever 

Figure 49: 


Figure 50: 

Make sure the lever does 

not turn 

To remove a wheel with a Clix 

1. Release the Clix; move the quick-release lever 

to the OPEN position (Figure 45). 

2. Push together the cup and lever (Figure 

46), and push them in slightly to move the 

adjustment-nut out of the fork. 

3. Move the wheel out of the fork. 

To adjust the clamp-force of a Clix 

1. Loosen the Clix lock nut. 

2. Put the lever in the OPEN position (Figure 45). 

3. Align the marks on the lever and on the axle 

to the adjustment position (Figure 51). 

4. Tighten the adjustment-nut until it is slightly 

tight. 

5. Lock the lever and do the tests for correct 

clamp-force—see Step 4 of “To install a 

wheel with a Clix.” 

6. If the clamp-force is correct, lock the lever. 

• If the clamp force is NOT correct, slightly 

turn the adjusting nut clockwise to increase 

the clamp force. Go back to Step 4. 

7. To prevent a change of the adjustment, 

tighten the lock nut until it touches the 

adjustment-nut. Do not over-tighten. 

8. Examine the secondary wheel retention 

of the Clix system. Move the lever to the 

OPEN position. Lift the front wheel off the 

ground and use force to hit the top of the 

tire. The wheel should not come out of the 

fork ends. If the Clix system does not pass 

this test, transport your bicycle to your 

dealer for repair. 

3 

1 2 

Figure 51: 

Adjustment position with 

marks in alignment 

1. Lever mark 

2. Axle mark 

3. Spring (small end of 

cone points away from 

hub) 


To install a wheel with a threaded axle and nut 

Some wheels are attached with nuts that are 

threaded on the axle. A toothed washer could 

be necessary between the nut and fork end. 

1. Tighten the axle nuts for a front wheel to 

180-240 lb•in (20.3-27.1 N•m), and for a rear 

wheel to 240-300 lb•in (27.1-33.9 N•m). 

2. Make sure you have correctly attached 

the wheel: 


a solid blow (Figure 49). The wheel should 

not come off, be loose, or move from side to 

side. If the wheel connection does not pass 

the test, do these procedures again. If you can 

not correctly attach the wheel, transport your 

bicycle to your dealer for repair. 

To install a wheel with a thru-axle 

There are several types of thru-axles. If these 

instructions do not cover the hub type on your 

bicycle, refer to the CD or talk to your dealer. 

1. Release the quick-release or decrease the 

tightness of the clamp-bolts on the fork ends. 

2. Put the wheel in its location, and move the 

wheel into the fork ends. 

3. Place the axle or the skewer through the hub 

and fork ends. 

• For a skewer with threads, start the threads 

and turn the skewer until it is snug, then 

close the quick-release lever. 

• For fork tips with clamp bolts, tighten the 

clamp-bolts to 45-55 lb•in (5.1-6.2 N•m). 

4. Make sure you have correctly attached 

the wheel: Lift your bicycle and hit the top 

of the tire with a solid blow (Figure 49). The 

wheel should not come off, be loose, or move 

from side to side. If the wheel connection 

does not pass the test, do these procedures 

again. If you can not correctly attach the 

wheel, transport your bicycle to your dealer 

for repair. 

Tire Installation 

There are several types of tires: 

• Standard, or clincher, tire: the air inside the 

tire is contained in an inner tube, and the tire 

is on a standard rim 

• Tubeless or Tubeless Ready tire: there is 

no inner tube, and the tire is on a special 

tubeless rim 

• Tubular, or “sew-up,” type tire: the inner tube 

is stitched or glued inside the tire casing, and 

the casing is glued to the rim. 

• Tricycle tire: the air inside the tire is contained 

in an inner tube, and the tire is on a special, 

bolted rim 

These instructions are written for standard 

clincher wheel systems. For instructions for 

another types of tires, view the CD or consult 

your dealer. When purchasing spares or 

replacements, use the size written on the side 

of the tire or consult your dealer. 

To remove a wheel from the bike 

1. Follow the instructions to open the brake in 

the Brake System section of this chapter. 

2. Follow the instructions to remove a wheel in 

the Wheels section of this chapter. 

To remove the tire from the wheel 

Remove the tire from the rim with your hands 

or tire levers. Do not use sharp objects such as 

a screwdriver to remove the tire. 

1. Deflate the inner tube completely. 

2. Squeeze the tire beads into the bottom of 

the rim well (Figure 52). Work your way all 

around the wheel. 

3. Lift one tire bead up and out of the rim with a 

tire lever. Start opposite the valve. 

4. Continue around the wheel to lift the bead out 

until one bead is completely free (Figure 53). 

5. Reach up into the tire and remove the 

inner tube. 

6. Remove the second tire bead from the rim. 

31 


Figure 52: 

Tire beads in bottom of 

rim well 

Figure 53: 

First tire bead and tube 

out of rim 

7. Push the second bead into the rim with your 

hands. Start at the valve stem. 

• Be careful not to pinch the tube between 

the rim and the tire (Figure 55) when you 

mount the tire. 

8. Push the base of the valve stem up into the 

tire so that it is not caught between a tire 

bead and the rim. 

9. Inflate the tire to about half pressure and 

then check that the tire bead is properly 

seated in the rim (Figure 56). 

10. Deflate the tire again. This will help avoid 

any pinching of the tube. 

11. Inflate the tire to the pressure indicated on 

the side of the tire. Do not over-inflate. 

Figure 54: 

First bead pushed across 

rim, with inner tube in rim 

To install a tire on the wheel 

To repair a tube leak, apply a patch to the 

puncture on the tube, or replace the tube. 

1. Follow the Inspection procedures in the 

Wheels section to check the rim and inside 

of the tire. 

• If you replace the tube or tire, make sure the 

new tube or tire is the same size as the old 

one, or consult your dealer for compatibility 

of different sizes. The size can be found on 

the side of the tire. 

2. Inflate the tube until it begins to take shape. 

3. Place the tube in the tire. 

4. Insert the valve stem through the hole 

in the rim. 

5. Install the first bead onto the rim with your 

hands (Figure 53). Start at the valve stem. 

6. Push the tire and tube over so the tube is 

inside the rim (Figure 54). 

Figure 55: 

Tube pinched between 

tire and rim 

Figure 56: 

Tire beads seated in rim 

hooks, with inner tube 

inside rim 


Suspension 

If you adjust your suspension, your bicycle will 

turn and stop differently. After you adjust the 

suspension, carefully examine your bicycle in a 

low traffic area until you know its performance. 

Sag is the compression of a shock that occurs 

when the rider sits on the bicycle in a usual 

position. For the initial adjustment, set the forks 

at approximately 15% sag, and a rear shock at 

approximately 25% sag. Try small changes to 

find your preference. 

With the correct adjustment, you should not 

be able to fully compress the suspension. 

If the suspension is fully compressed, its 

movement will stop suddenly and could 

decrease your control. 

Each week, check the bolts on all suspension 

parts: attachment bolts and pivot bolts. 

See the CD or web site for more adjustment 

and maintenance aid, or speak to your dealer. 

Accessories 

Your bicycle might have parts that have not 

been discussed in this chapter. These parts, 

such as fenders, lights, racks, chainguard, 

or kickstand, are accessories. Each month, 

examine the accessories to make sure they are 

correctly attached. If the part is loose or not in 

alignment, tighten the part or transport your 

bicycle to your dealer for repair. 

To install a light bulb 

The bulb has markings that indicate the 

correct voltage. When purhcasing spares or 

replacements, take the bulb with you to the 

store to make sure you purchase the correct 

bulb for your light. 

1. Find the lens set-screw on the rear of the light. 

2. Turn the screw counterclockwise. Remove it. 

3. Turn the lens one quarter-turn clockwise. Pull 

the lens assembly off of the 

bulb-attachment. 

4. Turn the bulb counterclockwise. Remove it. 

• Be careful not to crush the glass of the bulb. 

Do not dislodge the wire in the base of the 

bulb-attachment. 

5. Turn a new bulb in until it is slightly tight. 

6. Put the lens on the bulb-attachment. Turn the 

lens one quarter-turn counterclockwise. 

7. Put the lens set-screw in the rear of the light. 

Tighten the screw. 

Make sure the new bulb operates. If it does not, 

examine the wires for correct position, and make 

sure that the new bulb does not have damage. 

33 


Training Wheels 

See other sections of this manual as needed. 

1. Put the bicycle on a flat, smooth surface, with 

the tires correctly inflated. 

2. Decrease the tightness of the rear-axle nuts. 

3. Hold the bicycle up straight, and adjust the 

distance between the training wheels and 

the ground to approximately 1/4” (6 mm). 

Make the distance the same on the two sides 

of the bicycle. 

4. Adjust the tension of the chain, and tighten 

the axle-nuts. Use the procedures in the 

Wheels section. 


Chapter 4: Lubrication 

This section shows the parts that should have 

lubricant applied, the frequency of service, 

and brief instructions. See your dealer for 

recommended grease or oil. If more instructions 

are necessary, see other sections of this manual 

as necessary, or speak to your dealer. 

To service bearings, special tools and training 

are necessary, so only your dealer should do 

this. Some bearings are permanently sealed and 

do not have to have new grease each year. 

Stem 

Each year apply lubricant to the stem. 

To apply lubricant to a direct-connect stem, 

adjustment of the headset bearings is 

necessary. Only your dealer should do this. 

To apply lubricant to a quill stem: 

1. Remove the stem from the frame. 

2. Clean the used grease from the stem. 

3. Apply a thin layer of grease to the section of 

the stem-quill that will be put into the frame. 

Also apply grease to the stem wedge. 

4. Install the stem. 

Seatpost 

Each year, apply lubricant to a metal seatpost. 

Use the procedure for your frame and seatpost 

material: 

Aluminum seatpost in a metal frame 

1. Decrease the tightness of the seatpost 

binder bolt, or release the quick-release, and 

remove the seatpost from the frame. 

2. Clean the used grease off the seatpost. 

3. Apply a thin layer of grease to the section of 

the seatpost that will be in the frame. 

4. Put the seatpost into the frame. 

5. Adjust the saddle to the correct height and 

align it. Tighten the seatpost binder-bolt or 

lock the quick-release. 

Carbon fiber seatpost, or carbon fiber frame 

1. Decrease the tightness of the seatpost 

binder-bolt, or release the quick-release, and 

remove the seatpost from the frame. 

2. Clean the seatpost and the inner surface of 

the seat tube with a soft cloth and 

clean water. 

3. Let the seatpost dry. Then put it into 

the frame. 

4. Adjust the saddle to the correct height and 

align it. Tighten the seatpost binder bolt. 

Bottom Bracket 

Each year, replace the grease in the bottom 

bracket bearings. To service bearings, special 

tools and training are necessary, so only your 


Pedals 

Each year, replace the grease in the pedal 

bearings. To service bearings, special tools 

and training are necessary, so only your dealer 

should do this. 

Each year replace the grease on the pedal axles 

where they thread into the crank arms. 

1. Remove the pedals; turn the right pedal 

counterclockwise, but turn the left 

pedal clockwise. 

• There are right and left pedals, usually 

identified with a letter on the end of the 

pedal axle or on the wrench flats. 

2. Apply a thin layer of grease on the threads. 

3. Install the pedals on the correct side; put the 

right pedal on the right crankarm and the left 

pedal on the left crankarm. 

4. Tighten the pedals. 

35 

Chapter 4: Lubrication

Derailleurs 

Each month, apply lubricant to all pivot points 

on the front and rear derailleurs, together with 

the derailleur pulleys on the rear derailleur. 

Headset 

Each year, replace the grease in the headset 




Brakes and Brake-levers 

Each three months apply lubricant to the brakelever 

pivots and brake arm fixing pivots. 

Wheels 

Each year, replace the grease in the wheel 




Each year, apply lubricant to wheel quickreleases. 

Apply two or three drops of synthetic 

lubricant or a light oil where the quick-release 

lever turns in the quick-release body. 

Suspension Forks 

Each month, apply a light oil to the fork leg 

where the lower leg moves on it. Clean the fork 

if there is too much oil. 

Each year, replace the oil in your suspension 

fork. To replace the oil, special tools and 

training are necessary, so only your dealer or a 

suspension fork technician should do this. 

Rear Suspension 

Do not apply lubricants to the shock or the 

pivots of your full-suspension bicycle. If 

the shock or pivots are making noise or not 

operating smoothly, take the bicycle to your 

dealer for service. 

Cables 

Apply lubricant to a cable when you install it. 

To install a cable 

To install a cable in a cantilever brake, special 

tools and training are necessary, so only your 


1. Before you remove the used cable, know its 

path on the frame. Decrease the tightness 

of the cable-clamp bolt, and remove the 

worn cable. 

2. Apply grease to the new cable. Install the 

new cable on the same path as the 

used cable. 

3. Make sure the leaded end of the cable is 

installed correctly in the lever. Make sure the 

housing is correctly installed in the lever. 

• If necessary when you install a cable in a 

brake, adjust the brake again. 

4. Turn the barrel-adjuster clockwise so that the 

threads on the barrel-adjuster do not show. 

• For a derailleur cable, put the shift-lever in 

the position with the least cable tension. 

• For a brake cable, hold the brake closed while 

you do the subsequent step. 

5. Tighten the cable-clamp bolt to 52-69 lb•in. 

(6-8 N•m). 

6. Cut the cable so that no more than 2” 

(51 mm) extends through the clamp-bolt. 

7. Put a metal cap or put a bit of solder on the 

end of the cable to prevent a frayed cable. 

8. Use the instructions for adjustment. 

Chapter 4: Lubrication 36

For more instructions 

If more instructions are necessary about your 

bicycle or the servicing of bicycles, there are 

many resources in your community. 

First, speak to your bicycle dealer. They have 

extensive experience with bicycles and rides 

in your community. They can answer your 

questions and help you in your search for 

areas in which to enjoy your new bicycle. Most 

dealers sell books about bicycles and repair 

manuals that are extensive. 

Second, visit your public library. Most libraries 

have books about how to ride, how to race, 

bicycle safety, bicycle maintenance, and more. 

Third, look on-line. The best on-line resource 

for your bicycle can be found on the CD that 

accompanies this manual. With internet access, 

you can go directly from the CD to our web site. 

The CD also links to some of the companies 

that make the parts of your bicycle. 

37

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