P43-44 Triton Router Tableah.indd - Triton Tools

I Table-mounting routers TURNING
BY RON FOX
Table-mounted Triton routers
The Triton range of routers, and particularly the MOF001 and JOF001 models, is
ideal for table mounting so long as your intended workload falls within their power
range. They all have an excellent plunge, an automatic spindle lock and a simple
safety switch, and are easy to table-mount, especially into the Triton table
1
Attach the router to the insert plate
and mark the drilling position
In addition, the two smaller models in the
range have excellent 1 ⁄2in collets and
through-the-table height adjustment.
These features solve the two main problems
of router table use: easy installation and
removal of cutters, and quick and accurate
depth setting.
Easy installation
With the Triton table, installing the routers is
simple because they all have spring-loaded
mounting pins in their base, which engage
with keyhole slots in the inner table plate.
With the advent of the height-winding
handle, however, an additional task has
arisen with the two smaller models. In order
to use the handle, a 1 ⁄2in diameter hole has
to be drilled in the table insert plate. This is
not a diffi cult job and this article shows you
how to do it.
Drilling the insert plate
The position of the height adjuster, and
therefore the access hole, differs between
the two routers. On the MOF001 it’s on the
outside of the body; with the JOF001, it
goes down through one of the plunge legs.
So here’s the sequence of operations for
each model.
The MOF001
Attach the router to your insert plate (you
have two possible positions to use) and put
the plate, complete with router, upside
down on the bench.
Take a marker pen or pencil and trace the
shape of the scalloped indent in the router
base (it’s adjacent to the depth stop turret)
onto the insert plate, photo 1.
Remove the router from the plate and drill
a 1 ⁄2in diameter hole through the marked
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The Woodworker June 2011
43

I WORKSHOP Table-mounting routers
2 3 4 5
Clamp the plate securely and drill a
12mm diameter hole through it
Remove any burrs from the top and
bottom surfaces of the plate
Reattach the router to the plate
and check the hole’s alignment
Drop the winding handle into place
and engage it with the router
6 7 8
Mark the position of the winding hole on the
edge of the sole plate
Place the sole plate on the insert plate
and mark the hole position
Changing cutters is now child’s play,
especially with a cranked spanner
9
The system is particularly useful for setting
critical cutting depths
THE TRITON 2000W ROUTER
The original Triton router has the quick-fi t pins, deep plunge and automatic spindle lock
but not the through-the-table height setting, so the need to drill an access hole for a
winding handle doesn’t arise. The router is mounted onto the Triton insert plate via the
pins in the keyhole slots, and to other plates using the method described above.
The system works well, but the universal clamping system is so good and so easy to
operate that I use it as well as the keyhole slots with the Triton routers to give extra
support, especially with the heavier 2000W model.
circle, photo 2. You might like to use a
smaller diameter pilot bit to drill a starter
hole before using the 1 ⁄2in bit.
Remove any burrs left on the top and
bottom edges of the hole. I used a
de-burring stone in a power drill, photo 3,
but a small round hand fi le is as effective.
Refi t the router to the plate, photo 4; the
drilled hole should line up exactly with the
scalloped indent used to mark its position.
Drop the end of the winding handle through
the hole and engage it with the protruding
rod on the router, photo 5. If the hole is
slightly off-centre, enlarge it with a round fi le
then install the insert plate in the table.
The JOF001
The only procedural difference between this
router and the MOF001 is the marking of
the position of the hole on the insert plate.
Mark the edge of the plastic sole plate
adjacent to the winding hole, attach the
router to the insert plate and mark its
position, photo 6. Remove the router from
the insert plate and detach the sole plate
from the router, then place the sole plate
over the marked position on the insert plate,
and mark the position of the cut through the
hole in the sole plate, photo 7. Lift the sole
plate aside and drill the 1 ⁄2in diameter hole in
the insert plate as before, then remove any
burrs from the edges of the hole.
Reattach the sole plate to the router, refi t
the router to the insert plate and insert the
winding handle down through the plunge
leg. As before, if the hole is slightly
off-centre, enlarge it with a round fi le. Install
the plate in the table and start routing.
Using the system.
With either of these routers mounted in the
table, plunging to full depth will
automatically lock the spindle when you
rotate the collet. Note that this works only if
the router switch is off. If you just switch off
at the NVR switch or the wall socket, the
router can’t be plunged deep enough to
engage the lock. Cutter changing is now
child’s play, since the spindle is locked and
the collet is above the surface of the table.
A cranked spanner makes the job even
easier, photo 8.
With the cutter installed, you can carry
out precise depth setting by dropping the
winding handle through the hole you have
drilled and engaging it with the router
adjuster. The system is particularly useful for
setting critical depths of cut on work such
as the scribed rails on frame-and-panel
constructions, photo 9.
FURTHER INFORMATION
■ Triton Tools
■ 0844 576 0266
■ www.tritontools
44 The Woodworker June 2011 www.getwoodworking.com