august-2014

In association with Costa Cálida International Radio and www.angloINFO.com
Cartagena’s Town Hall is virtually on the
seafront, at one side of the Plaza del Ayuntamiento,
opposite the Roman Theatre. Today,
it is commonly known as the Palacio
Consistorial and is well worth a visit, following
its painstaking restoration. You can
hardly miss the building – a unique and imposing
triangular structure with distinctive
cupolas crowning each of its three corners.
It is normally open to visitors from Tuesday
to Sunday, from 10.30am to 1.30pm and
in the late afternoon except on Sundays.
There is a minimal entry charge.
Construction began in May 1900 and it was
opened in 1907, with King Alfonso XIII and
King Edward VII present. Unfortunately,
construction was neither straightforward,
nor sound. Defects in the building saw a
continuous process of repair from the day
it opened. Built on piles of wood on unstable
land reclaimed from the sea, the building
suffered major movements with large
cracks in the structure soon becoming apparent.
Rehabilitation work began in October
1995 with huge amounts of concrete
initially being pumped below the building
to shore it up. However, it was soon discovered
that the state of the building was
worse than the most pessimistic of initial
estimates. Another company took over the
restoration, but with the budget now in excess
of 6 million euros, some 60% more
than originally allocated.
It proved impossible to reinforce some
structural elements and these had to be
demolished and replaced. Internal items
which were removed were, where possible,
restored by craftsmen with the aim of
slowly restoring the building to something
approaching its original state. Plasterwork
on the ceilings was redone to exhibit the
original pattern of decoration. The original
wooden windows were restored and new
marble flooring was laid to replicate the
original pattern, but with a greater thickness
(as in the main vestibule) and wooden
flooring which could not be saved was
remade to the original design. Even so,
new electrical systems and air conditioning
especially, were incorporated to bring
the restored building into the 21 st Century.
The roof required particular attention
as the wood frame had to be completely
replaced as a result of its advanced state
of decay almost to the point of collapse.
Even the zinc cupolas had to be remade,
together with their support structure, as a
result of the ravages of erosion caused by
the maritime environment and pollution.
There is a fascinating exhibition of photographs
with explanatory texts (in Spanish)
in a room to the left of the entrance area.
It is well worth spending some time looking
around this to appreciate the scale and
nature of the restoration work which had
to be undertaken.
The first thing to strike you when you
walk through the main entrance is the
magnificent main staircase. The main
construction material is one of Spain’s finest
marbles, Macael, together with forged
iron pillars. Particularly notable at the side
of the stairs are the impressive electric
light fitments. These are original – note
the four small circular containers around
the sides which were to house candles in
Page 50
the event
of a power
failure! The
ceiling/roof
of the stairwell
is also
extremely
ornate with
a major part
occupied
by stained
glass, exhibiting
the
Coat of Arms
of Cartagena.
The main
room on
the first floor is the large council meeting
room, the Salon de Plenos, now restored to
be much as it would originally have been.
The chandeliers consist each of some 2500
pieces of crystal and each weighs 300kgs.
The coffered ceiling gives the impression of
being wood, but is in fact plaster. Exquisite
wood carving is to be found in the chairs
and seating in the room. You will also
see various
wall hangings
reflecting
Cartagena’s
history
and various
Coats of
Arms, while
at one end
are paintings
of Captains
General of
the Armada
(Navy),
reflecting
Cartagena’s
long and
continuing
military importance.
On our last visit, we were unable to go
into the mayor’s office on the first floor as
it was in use. However, it is a superbly
decorated room. One feature highlighted
in the guidebooks is the cylindrical canvas
attached to the ceiling of the anteroom and
known as the Allegory of Cartagena. The
central figure of an elegant lady represents
the city itself and the two flanking men the
sea and the mines.
Another important room on the first
floor is the Secretary General’s office.
This is now furnished much as it would
have been at the beginning of the 20 th Century.
We particularly noted the very old
Underwood typewriter! Various paintings
adorn the walls and the ceiling has again
been restored to its original splendour,
appearing like intricately decorated and
carved wood, but in reality, being plaster.
One addition to the ceiling has been modern
electric lighting. Originally, this office
did not have the luxury of electric light,
which was restricted to the Mayor’s Office
and the Salon de Plenos. The Town Hall,
perhaps predictably, was the first building
in the city to be lit by electricity.
Around the walkway surrounding the main
staircase outside the first floor offices and
rooms, you will see portraits of modern
mayors of Cartagena, together with an
1895 painting of the shipwreck of the Reina
Regente, a Spanish cruiser built by Thomsons
on Clydebank, which disappeared off
Cadiz in March of that year with the loss of
the entire 420 crew. Half of the crew were
from Cartagena.
On the next level of the Town Hall are offices
for the various municipal groups and
it is possible that you may be able to ascend
steps to the base of the main cupola.
Another location to visit if you can is the
toilets! When we first saw inside the newly
restored building in late 2006, we were
absolutely astonished at the Five Star appearance
of shiny stainless steel and white
marble!
Spend some time also looking around
the outside of the building. Great care
was taken during the building’s rehabilitation
in the cleaning of the façades, after
the cracks between the stone blocks had
been repaired. All the façades are different.
Observe the intricate carvings on
the façades including stone faces which
are meant to represent the original native
population of the area with one very much
in the style of the Dama de Elche.
Article by Clive and Rosie Palmer who have
written several guide books on towns and
regions in Murcia. Their book, “Exploring
Murcia, Days Out” is available to buy
from the CHM/Costa Cálida Chronicle office
on Camposol B, Best Wishes (who also
stock other of their books, or phone Patti
on 968 433 978. All their books can be
viewed at and obtained from
www.lulu.com, or contact
clive.palmer5@btinternet.com.
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