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Audley in China, Russia and Central Asia - Audley Travel

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C HINA, RUSSIA<br />

& CENTRAL A SIA<br />

CHINA<br />

HONG KONG<br />

TIBET<br />

TAIWAN<br />

SILK ROUTE<br />

IRAN<br />

UKRAINE<br />

RUSSIA<br />

MONGOLIA<br />

TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER


Dear <strong>Travel</strong>ler<br />

In a region as culturally diverse <strong>and</strong><br />

geographically vast as Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong>, where experiences range from<br />

stroll<strong>in</strong>g around the boom<strong>in</strong>g city of<br />

Shanghai right the way through to camp<strong>in</strong>g<br />

beneath the stars on the Mongolian steppe,<br />

it can be difficult to know where to start.<br />

Distances are huge <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>frastructure can<br />

be poor, mak<strong>in</strong>g careful plann<strong>in</strong>g absolutely<br />

crucial – these are for the most part not places<br />

where you can just turn up. Thankfully,<br />

our knowledgeable specialists, with their<br />

first-h<strong>and</strong> experience, are able to guide you<br />

through the highlights <strong>and</strong> potential pitfalls,<br />

<strong>and</strong> help you plan your perfect trip. Many<br />

of the team have studied, lived <strong>and</strong> worked<br />

<strong>in</strong> the region. Their deep cultural<br />

appreciation comb<strong>in</strong>ed with a genu<strong>in</strong>e<br />

enthusiasm to share their knowledge is<br />

what makes us different.<br />

Whether you are travell<strong>in</strong>g here for the first<br />

time, or return<strong>in</strong>g to explore <strong>in</strong> more depth,<br />

I hope our passion for this region sh<strong>in</strong>es<br />

through on the pages of this brochure,<br />

<strong>in</strong>spir<strong>in</strong>g you to visit this fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong><br />

beautiful part of the world.<br />

Craig Burk<strong>in</strong>shaw<br />

Manag<strong>in</strong>g Director


Introduc<strong>in</strong>g <strong>Audley</strong><br />

After develop<strong>in</strong>g a real passion for travel <strong>in</strong> the early 1990s Craig Burk<strong>in</strong>shaw founded<br />

<strong>Audley</strong>, or <strong>Asia</strong>n Journeys as we were then called. Craig wanted to make it possible for<br />

others to share the same experiences <strong>and</strong>, from these small beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>gs, the company was born.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> offered a new type of travel – <strong>in</strong>dividual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s<br />

<strong>in</strong>terests, tastes <strong>and</strong> budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity<br />

<strong>and</strong> a passion for travel. Today <strong>Audley</strong> is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour<br />

operators, provid<strong>in</strong>g tailor-made trips throughout <strong>Asia</strong>, Africa, the Middle East, Lat<strong>in</strong><br />

America, Australasia, Antarctica <strong>and</strong> the Arctic, Canada <strong>and</strong> Alaska.<br />

Tailor-made journeys<br />

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip<br />

is unique. Whether you want to stay <strong>in</strong> simple or<br />

luxurious accommodation, have great guides on<br />

h<strong>and</strong> or explore under your own steam, travel for<br />

one week or five, we can create a trip to match<br />

your tastes <strong>and</strong> budget. We can also design trips<br />

for a special occasion, where added touches can<br />

change an adventurous journey <strong>in</strong>to a spectacular<br />

honeymoon, anniversary or birthday celebration.<br />

Your trip can be tailored to suit your particular<br />

<strong>in</strong>terests, such as wildlife, photography or div<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

<strong>and</strong> we have the specialist knowledge to match.<br />

Throughout the brochure you will f<strong>in</strong>d suggested<br />

it<strong>in</strong>eraries <strong>and</strong> some of our favourite places to<br />

stay. These are <strong>in</strong>cluded purely to offer <strong>in</strong>spiration<br />

<strong>and</strong> give you a flavour of what is possible, as each<br />

journey is created <strong>in</strong>dividually to give you the<br />

opportunity to experience a dest<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>in</strong><br />

exactly the way you choose.<br />

Specialist knowledge<br />

Our Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> specialists<br />

have all travelled extensively throughout the<br />

region <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> many cases lived there, so you can<br />

rely on their extensive first-h<strong>and</strong> knowledge. They<br />

regularly return to see the accommodation, meet<br />

our guides – many of whom are firm friends –<br />

experience all the excursions <strong>and</strong> activities, <strong>and</strong><br />

keep up-to-date with local developments. They<br />

pride themselves on hav<strong>in</strong>g an honest ‘tell it how<br />

it is’ approach to plann<strong>in</strong>g your trip <strong>and</strong>, as well as<br />

their own extensive knowledge, are able to draw<br />

on the considerable collective experience of their<br />

colleagues. We believe this approach is unique to<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>and</strong> the only way we can genu<strong>in</strong>ely offer<br />

you a tailor-made service.<br />

F<strong>in</strong>ancial security<br />

All travel arrangements <strong>in</strong> this brochure that<br />

<strong>in</strong>clude a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil<br />

Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817.<br />

Please see our book<strong>in</strong>g conditions for more<br />

<strong>in</strong>formation. If your arrangements do not <strong>in</strong>clude<br />

any flights they are protected by a separate<br />

f<strong>in</strong>ancial scheme, for further details please visit<br />

www.audleytravel.com/protect<br />

Plann<strong>in</strong>g your trip<br />

Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if<br />

you just want some general guidance, call one<br />

of our Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong>, <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> specialists<br />

on 01993 838 200. They can offer advice <strong>and</strong><br />

discuss your plans with you, before creat<strong>in</strong>g a<br />

detailed it<strong>in</strong>erary, which will be forwarded to you<br />

together with maps, accommodation <strong>in</strong>formation,<br />

colour photographs <strong>and</strong> a price. Your specialist<br />

can then cont<strong>in</strong>ue to ref<strong>in</strong>e the plans until you are<br />

completely satisfied. They will be on h<strong>and</strong> from<br />

the start of the plann<strong>in</strong>g process to your return<br />

<strong>and</strong> are always available to answer questions<br />

<strong>and</strong> offer sound advice.<br />

Ceramics on sale, Uzbekistan<br />

Contents<br />

Introduction 2-7<br />

Ch<strong>in</strong>a 8-41<br />

Classic Ch<strong>in</strong>a 10-27<br />

Yunnan 28-37<br />

Hong Kong 38-41<br />

Tibet 42-49<br />

Taiwan 50-51<br />

Silk Route 52-61<br />

Iran 62-67<br />

Ukra<strong>in</strong>e 68-69<br />

<strong>Russia</strong> 70-81<br />

The Trans-Siberian Railway 80-81<br />

Mongolia 82-86<br />

Useful Information 87


<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a,<br />

<strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong><br />

The countries <strong>in</strong> our Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> brochure are a diverse range of<br />

dest<strong>in</strong>ations, encompass<strong>in</strong>g many different peoples <strong>and</strong> cultures. Perhaps what they<br />

all have <strong>in</strong> common though is just how ancient they all are. These are cultural giants <strong>and</strong><br />

places that, at various po<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>in</strong> their history, have ruled over vast swathes of the known<br />

world. Explor<strong>in</strong>g the monuments, temples, monasteries, mosques <strong>and</strong> palaces that they’ve<br />

left beh<strong>in</strong>d as their power waxed <strong>and</strong> waned is what makes a visit to these parts of the<br />

world so <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

A history of empires<br />

Kreml<strong>in</strong> domes, Moscow<br />

Chairman Mao badge<br />

Persepolis, Iran<br />

‘With Heaven’s aid I have conquered for you a<br />

huge empire. But my life was too short to achieve<br />

the conquest of the world. That task is left for<br />

you’. Genghis Khan to his successor.<br />

The history of these countries is one of empires<br />

ris<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> fall<strong>in</strong>g, jostl<strong>in</strong>g for supremacy with one<br />

another. The world’s oldest cont<strong>in</strong>uous one, the<br />

Ch<strong>in</strong>ese empire, has been about <strong>in</strong> one form or<br />

another s<strong>in</strong>ce 221 BC, when the emperor Q<strong>in</strong><br />

united various warr<strong>in</strong>g tribes <strong>and</strong> imposed a<br />

unified system of measurements as well as a<br />

st<strong>and</strong>ardised language.<br />

Last<strong>in</strong>g from 550 to 330 BC, the ancient Persian<br />

empire was the largest of its time, spann<strong>in</strong>g<br />

present day Iran, large parts of <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong>, as<br />

well as northern India, <strong>and</strong> most of the Middle<br />

East. Known for their tolerance of other cultures<br />

<strong>and</strong> enlightened statesmanship, the Persians<br />

eventually succumbed to Alex<strong>and</strong>er the Great,<br />

leav<strong>in</strong>g beh<strong>in</strong>d the mighty city of Persepolis, as<br />

well as an enormous sense of pride <strong>and</strong> a<br />

dist<strong>in</strong>ctive national identity <strong>in</strong> modern day Iran.<br />

Roar<strong>in</strong>g out of Mongolia <strong>in</strong> the 13th century,<br />

Genghis Khan <strong>and</strong> his warriors ruled over most<br />

of present-day <strong>Asia</strong> <strong>and</strong> Eastern Europe, for a<br />

short time, before the vast empire dis<strong>in</strong>tegrated<br />

because of <strong>in</strong>fight<strong>in</strong>g. Today there is little evidence<br />

of the Mongols <strong>in</strong> the countries they conquered –<br />

but large numbers of Genghis Khan’s successors<br />

live a similar nomadic lifestyle to the one he<br />

would have lived.<br />

Pick<strong>in</strong>g up some of the pieces from the collapse<br />

of the Mongol empire, the Timurid dynasty<br />

reached its peak <strong>in</strong> the 15th century. Centred on<br />

Samark<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> present-day Uzbekistan, it was<br />

established by Tamerlane, a controversial ruler<br />

whose legacy is bittersweet. As well as wreak<strong>in</strong>g<br />

great destruction – some estimate that he was<br />

responsible for the deaths of 17 million people –<br />

he also bequeathed some of the world’s most<br />

beautiful monuments <strong>and</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs, many of them<br />

<strong>in</strong> Samark<strong>and</strong>.<br />

Several hundred years later, it was the turn of the<br />

<strong>Russia</strong>ns who, hav<strong>in</strong>g subdued the vastness of<br />

Siberia <strong>in</strong> the 16th century, turned their attention<br />

to <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> <strong>in</strong> the late 18th <strong>and</strong> 19th<br />

centuries, push<strong>in</strong>g right up to the Iranian <strong>and</strong><br />

Ch<strong>in</strong>ese borders. With the com<strong>in</strong>g of communism<br />

the <strong>Russia</strong>n empire was substituted for the Soviet<br />

empire, orthodox churches for Soviet tower<br />

blocks. These days <strong>Russia</strong>n rema<strong>in</strong>s the l<strong>in</strong>gua<br />

franca of the <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong>n region, <strong>and</strong> significant<br />

proportions of the population are ethnically<br />

<strong>Russia</strong>n.<br />

In the 21st century it is once aga<strong>in</strong> the turn of the<br />

Ch<strong>in</strong>ese to be dom<strong>in</strong>ant as the Middle K<strong>in</strong>gdom<br />

rises, with huge changes <strong>in</strong> people’s way of life<br />

with<strong>in</strong> the space of a generation. Witness<strong>in</strong>g a<br />

society <strong>in</strong> flux, with the tensions between ancient<br />

<strong>and</strong> modern ways of life is one of the reasons for<br />

visit<strong>in</strong>g. Inevitably there are controversies too –<br />

between the expansionist dem<strong>and</strong>s of an empire<br />

<strong>and</strong> the right to self-determ<strong>in</strong>ation of <strong>in</strong>digenous<br />

peoples, <strong>and</strong> between traditional ideas <strong>and</strong><br />

modern technology.<br />

See<strong>in</strong>g the historical <strong>and</strong> cultural remnants of<br />

all these empires dotted throughout the region<br />

is what makes a trip to this part of the world<br />

truly fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g – with mosques <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a <strong>and</strong><br />

orthodox churches <strong>in</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> mark<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

high po<strong>in</strong>ts of each wave of empire across the<br />

region. It rema<strong>in</strong>s to be seen where the high<br />

po<strong>in</strong>t of the current Ch<strong>in</strong>ese ascension will be,<br />

there be<strong>in</strong>g no signs of Ch<strong>in</strong>ese dom<strong>in</strong>ance <strong>in</strong><br />

the region reced<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

4


Contrast<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>and</strong>scapes<br />

Spann<strong>in</strong>g a quarter of the earth’s surface Ch<strong>in</strong>a,<br />

<strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> conta<strong>in</strong> many differ<strong>in</strong>g<br />

l<strong>and</strong>scapes. From vast deserts <strong>in</strong> Mongolia <strong>and</strong><br />

the north of Ch<strong>in</strong>a to lush forests <strong>in</strong> the south of<br />

Ch<strong>in</strong>a; from never-end<strong>in</strong>g grass steppe <strong>in</strong> Siberia<br />

to awe <strong>in</strong>spir<strong>in</strong>g mounta<strong>in</strong> peaks <strong>in</strong> Tibet; from<br />

mighty rivers spann<strong>in</strong>g the whole of Ch<strong>in</strong>a to<br />

ancient rice terraces built countless generations<br />

ago, there really is a l<strong>and</strong>scape for every taste<br />

<strong>in</strong> these l<strong>and</strong>s.<br />

Diverse cultures <strong>and</strong> peoples<br />

With a quarter of the world’s population,<br />

there is a huge variety of peoples <strong>and</strong> cultures.<br />

Hip urbanites <strong>in</strong> Beij<strong>in</strong>g’s 798 art district,<br />

nomadic herders <strong>in</strong> Mongolia, devout Ayatollahs<br />

<strong>in</strong> Iran, wealthy Oligarchs <strong>in</strong> <strong>Russia</strong> – there is an<br />

endless variety of peoples, personalities, cultures<br />

<strong>and</strong> traditions to experience. See<strong>in</strong>g the changes<br />

<strong>in</strong> the faces as you travel from east to west<br />

(or vice versa) is one of the most <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g<br />

facets of the many great journeys you can make<br />

<strong>in</strong> the region.<br />

Trans-Siberian tra<strong>in</strong>, Mongolia<br />

Great Journeys<br />

With such contrast<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>and</strong>scapes <strong>and</strong><br />

cultures, there are a number of<br />

<strong>in</strong>spirational journeys that can be<br />

undertaken. Take the Trans-Siberian<br />

railway for a journey from European<br />

Moscow to <strong>Asia</strong>n Beij<strong>in</strong>g. Retrace the<br />

steps of the ancient Silk Road, cross<strong>in</strong>g<br />

deserts <strong>and</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong> passes. Take the<br />

highest railway <strong>in</strong> the world from<br />

Beij<strong>in</strong>g to Lhasa. <strong>Travel</strong> overl<strong>and</strong> from<br />

Lhasa to Kathm<strong>and</strong>u to experience the<br />

roof of the world. Follow <strong>in</strong> the<br />

footsteps of ancient tea traders <strong>in</strong><br />

Yunnan. There are endless permutations<br />

<strong>and</strong> possibilities – the only limit is your<br />

imag<strong>in</strong>ation (<strong>and</strong> the number of pages<br />

left <strong>in</strong> your passport!).<br />

Mongolian nomads<br />

01993 838 200 ● Introduction 5


<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a,<br />

<strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong><br />

Babushka sell<strong>in</strong>g cakes, Trans-Siberian Railway<br />

Accommodation<br />

With most of Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong><br />

hav<strong>in</strong>g been staunch communist countries until<br />

relatively recently, there is sadly not much of a<br />

tradition of small, locally owned hotels <strong>and</strong><br />

guesthouses. This is chang<strong>in</strong>g slowly though, <strong>and</strong><br />

there are some genu<strong>in</strong>e gems that we’ve<br />

discovered on our research trips. Some of the<br />

more popular dest<strong>in</strong>ations such as Beij<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

Shanghai <strong>and</strong> St Petersburg have some smaller,<br />

more characterful options. For a truly unique<br />

experience, we can even arrange a stay <strong>in</strong> a ger<br />

tent <strong>in</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> or Mongolia. Elsewhere<br />

bus<strong>in</strong>ess orientated hotels tend to dom<strong>in</strong>ate.<br />

While these may be a little un<strong>in</strong>spir<strong>in</strong>g, they are<br />

generally of a good st<strong>and</strong>ard.<br />

Responsible travel<br />

We're passionate about travel but also deeply<br />

aware of the responsibility we have to the people<br />

<strong>and</strong> places we visit. We believe that a visit from<br />

an <strong>Audley</strong> traveller should have a positive impact<br />

on the dest<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>and</strong>, wherever possible, br<strong>in</strong>g<br />

real benefits. We always endeavour to use locally<br />

owned hotels, work with local guides <strong>and</strong><br />

operators, <strong>and</strong> promote community <strong>and</strong> wildlife<br />

projects. Our <strong>Travel</strong>ler's Code offers tips <strong>and</strong><br />

advice you can use to ensure your trip does not<br />

threaten the susta<strong>in</strong>ability of the places you visit.<br />

We carbon offset all our staff flights <strong>and</strong> you can<br />

choose to do the same, please speak to your<br />

specialist about this or follow the l<strong>in</strong>k on our<br />

website www.audleytravel.com/offset. Our<br />

commitment to responsible travel has been<br />

audited by AITO (Association of Independent<br />

Tour Operators) <strong>and</strong> we have been awarded five<br />

stars, the maximum achievable. We also support<br />

a variety of social <strong>and</strong> environmental charities <strong>and</strong><br />

projects around the world.<br />

In the past the team have raised money to<br />

purchase ger tents <strong>and</strong> support projects that help<br />

orphans <strong>and</strong> street children <strong>in</strong> Ulaan Baatar,<br />

Mongolia. We cont<strong>in</strong>ue to organise fund-rais<strong>in</strong>g<br />

events to support similar projects.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>l<strong>in</strong>g around<br />

With<strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> we will<br />

always recommend the most convenient <strong>and</strong><br />

appropriate means of transport for the region <strong>in</strong><br />

which you are travell<strong>in</strong>g. Given the vast distances<br />

<strong>in</strong> these parts of the world, this often means<br />

fly<strong>in</strong>g. For those with a little more time, rail<br />

journeys can be a great way of enjoy<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

scenery of the region, though st<strong>and</strong>ards can vary<br />

from country to country <strong>and</strong> from route to route.<br />

When a road journey is necessary or worthwhile<br />

we use well ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed, air-conditioned vehicles,<br />

you are accompanied by a local driver, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />

most case an English-speak<strong>in</strong>g guide to illum<strong>in</strong>ate<br />

your journey.<br />

St Isaac's Cathedral, <strong>Russia</strong><br />

6<br />

Rice terraces, Ch<strong>in</strong>a


Yi m<strong>in</strong>ority women, Ch<strong>in</strong>a<br />

Cuis<strong>in</strong>e<br />

The food <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> is as<br />

diverse as the culture. Ch<strong>in</strong>ese food is famous<br />

throughout the world, of course. What is not so<br />

well known is how much it varies from region to<br />

region. With most Ch<strong>in</strong>ese food <strong>in</strong> the UK<br />

orig<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g from Hong Kong <strong>and</strong> the south of<br />

Ch<strong>in</strong>a, it can be very different to what you may<br />

have had at home. <strong>Russia</strong>n <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong>n<br />

cuis<strong>in</strong>e has a poor reputation but has improved<br />

markedly s<strong>in</strong>ce the fall of communism, especially<br />

<strong>in</strong> Moscow <strong>and</strong> St Petersburg <strong>in</strong> <strong>Russia</strong> where<br />

there are many excellent restaurants (both<br />

<strong>Russia</strong>n <strong>and</strong> European).<br />

Off the beaten track<br />

For those that are look<strong>in</strong>g for someth<strong>in</strong>g a little<br />

different, the region offers a plethora of<br />

opportunities to really get out there <strong>and</strong><br />

experience someth<strong>in</strong>g truly different. Each country<br />

has its ‘must-see’ sites but beyond these there are<br />

often many <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g places which receive very<br />

few visitors. Whether you’re look<strong>in</strong>g to have<br />

fantastic scenery all to yourself, take an epic<br />

overl<strong>and</strong> journey or experience rural life <strong>in</strong> the<br />

country you’re visit<strong>in</strong>g, our specialists will be able<br />

to put together a unique trip tailored to your<br />

<strong>in</strong>terests <strong>and</strong> requirements.<br />

Mosque decoration, Iran<br />

Catch<strong>in</strong>g up at the market, Yunnan<br />

Ulughbek Medressa, Uzbekistan<br />

01993 838 200 ● Introduction 7

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