Audley in China, Russia and Central Asia - Audley Travel
Audley in China, Russia and Central Asia - Audley Travel
Audley in China, Russia and Central Asia - Audley Travel
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C HINA, RUSSIA<br />
& CENTRAL A SIA<br />
CHINA<br />
HONG KONG<br />
TIBET<br />
TAIWAN<br />
SILK ROUTE<br />
IRAN<br />
UKRAINE<br />
RUSSIA<br />
MONGOLIA<br />
TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER
Dear <strong>Travel</strong>ler<br />
In a region as culturally diverse <strong>and</strong><br />
geographically vast as Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />
<strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong>, where experiences range from<br />
stroll<strong>in</strong>g around the boom<strong>in</strong>g city of<br />
Shanghai right the way through to camp<strong>in</strong>g<br />
beneath the stars on the Mongolian steppe,<br />
it can be difficult to know where to start.<br />
Distances are huge <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>frastructure can<br />
be poor, mak<strong>in</strong>g careful plann<strong>in</strong>g absolutely<br />
crucial – these are for the most part not places<br />
where you can just turn up. Thankfully,<br />
our knowledgeable specialists, with their<br />
first-h<strong>and</strong> experience, are able to guide you<br />
through the highlights <strong>and</strong> potential pitfalls,<br />
<strong>and</strong> help you plan your perfect trip. Many<br />
of the team have studied, lived <strong>and</strong> worked<br />
<strong>in</strong> the region. Their deep cultural<br />
appreciation comb<strong>in</strong>ed with a genu<strong>in</strong>e<br />
enthusiasm to share their knowledge is<br />
what makes us different.<br />
Whether you are travell<strong>in</strong>g here for the first<br />
time, or return<strong>in</strong>g to explore <strong>in</strong> more depth,<br />
I hope our passion for this region sh<strong>in</strong>es<br />
through on the pages of this brochure,<br />
<strong>in</strong>spir<strong>in</strong>g you to visit this fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong><br />
beautiful part of the world.<br />
Craig Burk<strong>in</strong>shaw<br />
Manag<strong>in</strong>g Director
Introduc<strong>in</strong>g <strong>Audley</strong><br />
After develop<strong>in</strong>g a real passion for travel <strong>in</strong> the early 1990s Craig Burk<strong>in</strong>shaw founded<br />
<strong>Audley</strong>, or <strong>Asia</strong>n Journeys as we were then called. Craig wanted to make it possible for<br />
others to share the same experiences <strong>and</strong>, from these small beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>gs, the company was born.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> offered a new type of travel – <strong>in</strong>dividual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s<br />
<strong>in</strong>terests, tastes <strong>and</strong> budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity<br />
<strong>and</strong> a passion for travel. Today <strong>Audley</strong> is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour<br />
operators, provid<strong>in</strong>g tailor-made trips throughout <strong>Asia</strong>, Africa, the Middle East, Lat<strong>in</strong><br />
America, Australasia, Antarctica <strong>and</strong> the Arctic, Canada <strong>and</strong> Alaska.<br />
Tailor-made journeys<br />
The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip<br />
is unique. Whether you want to stay <strong>in</strong> simple or<br />
luxurious accommodation, have great guides on<br />
h<strong>and</strong> or explore under your own steam, travel for<br />
one week or five, we can create a trip to match<br />
your tastes <strong>and</strong> budget. We can also design trips<br />
for a special occasion, where added touches can<br />
change an adventurous journey <strong>in</strong>to a spectacular<br />
honeymoon, anniversary or birthday celebration.<br />
Your trip can be tailored to suit your particular<br />
<strong>in</strong>terests, such as wildlife, photography or div<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
<strong>and</strong> we have the specialist knowledge to match.<br />
Throughout the brochure you will f<strong>in</strong>d suggested<br />
it<strong>in</strong>eraries <strong>and</strong> some of our favourite places to<br />
stay. These are <strong>in</strong>cluded purely to offer <strong>in</strong>spiration<br />
<strong>and</strong> give you a flavour of what is possible, as each<br />
journey is created <strong>in</strong>dividually to give you the<br />
opportunity to experience a dest<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>in</strong><br />
exactly the way you choose.<br />
Specialist knowledge<br />
Our Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> specialists<br />
have all travelled extensively throughout the<br />
region <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> many cases lived there, so you can<br />
rely on their extensive first-h<strong>and</strong> knowledge. They<br />
regularly return to see the accommodation, meet<br />
our guides – many of whom are firm friends –<br />
experience all the excursions <strong>and</strong> activities, <strong>and</strong><br />
keep up-to-date with local developments. They<br />
pride themselves on hav<strong>in</strong>g an honest ‘tell it how<br />
it is’ approach to plann<strong>in</strong>g your trip <strong>and</strong>, as well as<br />
their own extensive knowledge, are able to draw<br />
on the considerable collective experience of their<br />
colleagues. We believe this approach is unique to<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>and</strong> the only way we can genu<strong>in</strong>ely offer<br />
you a tailor-made service.<br />
F<strong>in</strong>ancial security<br />
All travel arrangements <strong>in</strong> this brochure that<br />
<strong>in</strong>clude a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil<br />
Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817.<br />
Please see our book<strong>in</strong>g conditions for more<br />
<strong>in</strong>formation. If your arrangements do not <strong>in</strong>clude<br />
any flights they are protected by a separate<br />
f<strong>in</strong>ancial scheme, for further details please visit<br />
www.audleytravel.com/protect<br />
Plann<strong>in</strong>g your trip<br />
Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if<br />
you just want some general guidance, call one<br />
of our Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong>, <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> specialists<br />
on 01993 838 200. They can offer advice <strong>and</strong><br />
discuss your plans with you, before creat<strong>in</strong>g a<br />
detailed it<strong>in</strong>erary, which will be forwarded to you<br />
together with maps, accommodation <strong>in</strong>formation,<br />
colour photographs <strong>and</strong> a price. Your specialist<br />
can then cont<strong>in</strong>ue to ref<strong>in</strong>e the plans until you are<br />
completely satisfied. They will be on h<strong>and</strong> from<br />
the start of the plann<strong>in</strong>g process to your return<br />
<strong>and</strong> are always available to answer questions<br />
<strong>and</strong> offer sound advice.<br />
Ceramics on sale, Uzbekistan<br />
Contents<br />
Introduction 2-7<br />
Ch<strong>in</strong>a 8-41<br />
Classic Ch<strong>in</strong>a 10-27<br />
Yunnan 28-37<br />
Hong Kong 38-41<br />
Tibet 42-49<br />
Taiwan 50-51<br />
Silk Route 52-61<br />
Iran 62-67<br />
Ukra<strong>in</strong>e 68-69<br />
<strong>Russia</strong> 70-81<br />
The Trans-Siberian Railway 80-81<br />
Mongolia 82-86<br />
Useful Information 87
<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a,<br />
<strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong><br />
The countries <strong>in</strong> our Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> brochure are a diverse range of<br />
dest<strong>in</strong>ations, encompass<strong>in</strong>g many different peoples <strong>and</strong> cultures. Perhaps what they<br />
all have <strong>in</strong> common though is just how ancient they all are. These are cultural giants <strong>and</strong><br />
places that, at various po<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>in</strong> their history, have ruled over vast swathes of the known<br />
world. Explor<strong>in</strong>g the monuments, temples, monasteries, mosques <strong>and</strong> palaces that they’ve<br />
left beh<strong>in</strong>d as their power waxed <strong>and</strong> waned is what makes a visit to these parts of the<br />
world so <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
A history of empires<br />
Kreml<strong>in</strong> domes, Moscow<br />
Chairman Mao badge<br />
Persepolis, Iran<br />
‘With Heaven’s aid I have conquered for you a<br />
huge empire. But my life was too short to achieve<br />
the conquest of the world. That task is left for<br />
you’. Genghis Khan to his successor.<br />
The history of these countries is one of empires<br />
ris<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> fall<strong>in</strong>g, jostl<strong>in</strong>g for supremacy with one<br />
another. The world’s oldest cont<strong>in</strong>uous one, the<br />
Ch<strong>in</strong>ese empire, has been about <strong>in</strong> one form or<br />
another s<strong>in</strong>ce 221 BC, when the emperor Q<strong>in</strong><br />
united various warr<strong>in</strong>g tribes <strong>and</strong> imposed a<br />
unified system of measurements as well as a<br />
st<strong>and</strong>ardised language.<br />
Last<strong>in</strong>g from 550 to 330 BC, the ancient Persian<br />
empire was the largest of its time, spann<strong>in</strong>g<br />
present day Iran, large parts of <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong>, as<br />
well as northern India, <strong>and</strong> most of the Middle<br />
East. Known for their tolerance of other cultures<br />
<strong>and</strong> enlightened statesmanship, the Persians<br />
eventually succumbed to Alex<strong>and</strong>er the Great,<br />
leav<strong>in</strong>g beh<strong>in</strong>d the mighty city of Persepolis, as<br />
well as an enormous sense of pride <strong>and</strong> a<br />
dist<strong>in</strong>ctive national identity <strong>in</strong> modern day Iran.<br />
Roar<strong>in</strong>g out of Mongolia <strong>in</strong> the 13th century,<br />
Genghis Khan <strong>and</strong> his warriors ruled over most<br />
of present-day <strong>Asia</strong> <strong>and</strong> Eastern Europe, for a<br />
short time, before the vast empire dis<strong>in</strong>tegrated<br />
because of <strong>in</strong>fight<strong>in</strong>g. Today there is little evidence<br />
of the Mongols <strong>in</strong> the countries they conquered –<br />
but large numbers of Genghis Khan’s successors<br />
live a similar nomadic lifestyle to the one he<br />
would have lived.<br />
Pick<strong>in</strong>g up some of the pieces from the collapse<br />
of the Mongol empire, the Timurid dynasty<br />
reached its peak <strong>in</strong> the 15th century. Centred on<br />
Samark<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> present-day Uzbekistan, it was<br />
established by Tamerlane, a controversial ruler<br />
whose legacy is bittersweet. As well as wreak<strong>in</strong>g<br />
great destruction – some estimate that he was<br />
responsible for the deaths of 17 million people –<br />
he also bequeathed some of the world’s most<br />
beautiful monuments <strong>and</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs, many of them<br />
<strong>in</strong> Samark<strong>and</strong>.<br />
Several hundred years later, it was the turn of the<br />
<strong>Russia</strong>ns who, hav<strong>in</strong>g subdued the vastness of<br />
Siberia <strong>in</strong> the 16th century, turned their attention<br />
to <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> <strong>in</strong> the late 18th <strong>and</strong> 19th<br />
centuries, push<strong>in</strong>g right up to the Iranian <strong>and</strong><br />
Ch<strong>in</strong>ese borders. With the com<strong>in</strong>g of communism<br />
the <strong>Russia</strong>n empire was substituted for the Soviet<br />
empire, orthodox churches for Soviet tower<br />
blocks. These days <strong>Russia</strong>n rema<strong>in</strong>s the l<strong>in</strong>gua<br />
franca of the <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong>n region, <strong>and</strong> significant<br />
proportions of the population are ethnically<br />
<strong>Russia</strong>n.<br />
In the 21st century it is once aga<strong>in</strong> the turn of the<br />
Ch<strong>in</strong>ese to be dom<strong>in</strong>ant as the Middle K<strong>in</strong>gdom<br />
rises, with huge changes <strong>in</strong> people’s way of life<br />
with<strong>in</strong> the space of a generation. Witness<strong>in</strong>g a<br />
society <strong>in</strong> flux, with the tensions between ancient<br />
<strong>and</strong> modern ways of life is one of the reasons for<br />
visit<strong>in</strong>g. Inevitably there are controversies too –<br />
between the expansionist dem<strong>and</strong>s of an empire<br />
<strong>and</strong> the right to self-determ<strong>in</strong>ation of <strong>in</strong>digenous<br />
peoples, <strong>and</strong> between traditional ideas <strong>and</strong><br />
modern technology.<br />
See<strong>in</strong>g the historical <strong>and</strong> cultural remnants of<br />
all these empires dotted throughout the region<br />
is what makes a trip to this part of the world<br />
truly fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g – with mosques <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a <strong>and</strong><br />
orthodox churches <strong>in</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> mark<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
high po<strong>in</strong>ts of each wave of empire across the<br />
region. It rema<strong>in</strong>s to be seen where the high<br />
po<strong>in</strong>t of the current Ch<strong>in</strong>ese ascension will be,<br />
there be<strong>in</strong>g no signs of Ch<strong>in</strong>ese dom<strong>in</strong>ance <strong>in</strong><br />
the region reced<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
4
Contrast<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>and</strong>scapes<br />
Spann<strong>in</strong>g a quarter of the earth’s surface Ch<strong>in</strong>a,<br />
<strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> conta<strong>in</strong> many differ<strong>in</strong>g<br />
l<strong>and</strong>scapes. From vast deserts <strong>in</strong> Mongolia <strong>and</strong><br />
the north of Ch<strong>in</strong>a to lush forests <strong>in</strong> the south of<br />
Ch<strong>in</strong>a; from never-end<strong>in</strong>g grass steppe <strong>in</strong> Siberia<br />
to awe <strong>in</strong>spir<strong>in</strong>g mounta<strong>in</strong> peaks <strong>in</strong> Tibet; from<br />
mighty rivers spann<strong>in</strong>g the whole of Ch<strong>in</strong>a to<br />
ancient rice terraces built countless generations<br />
ago, there really is a l<strong>and</strong>scape for every taste<br />
<strong>in</strong> these l<strong>and</strong>s.<br />
Diverse cultures <strong>and</strong> peoples<br />
With a quarter of the world’s population,<br />
there is a huge variety of peoples <strong>and</strong> cultures.<br />
Hip urbanites <strong>in</strong> Beij<strong>in</strong>g’s 798 art district,<br />
nomadic herders <strong>in</strong> Mongolia, devout Ayatollahs<br />
<strong>in</strong> Iran, wealthy Oligarchs <strong>in</strong> <strong>Russia</strong> – there is an<br />
endless variety of peoples, personalities, cultures<br />
<strong>and</strong> traditions to experience. See<strong>in</strong>g the changes<br />
<strong>in</strong> the faces as you travel from east to west<br />
(or vice versa) is one of the most <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g<br />
facets of the many great journeys you can make<br />
<strong>in</strong> the region.<br />
Trans-Siberian tra<strong>in</strong>, Mongolia<br />
Great Journeys<br />
With such contrast<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>and</strong>scapes <strong>and</strong><br />
cultures, there are a number of<br />
<strong>in</strong>spirational journeys that can be<br />
undertaken. Take the Trans-Siberian<br />
railway for a journey from European<br />
Moscow to <strong>Asia</strong>n Beij<strong>in</strong>g. Retrace the<br />
steps of the ancient Silk Road, cross<strong>in</strong>g<br />
deserts <strong>and</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong> passes. Take the<br />
highest railway <strong>in</strong> the world from<br />
Beij<strong>in</strong>g to Lhasa. <strong>Travel</strong> overl<strong>and</strong> from<br />
Lhasa to Kathm<strong>and</strong>u to experience the<br />
roof of the world. Follow <strong>in</strong> the<br />
footsteps of ancient tea traders <strong>in</strong><br />
Yunnan. There are endless permutations<br />
<strong>and</strong> possibilities – the only limit is your<br />
imag<strong>in</strong>ation (<strong>and</strong> the number of pages<br />
left <strong>in</strong> your passport!).<br />
Mongolian nomads<br />
01993 838 200 ● Introduction 5
<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a,<br />
<strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong><br />
Babushka sell<strong>in</strong>g cakes, Trans-Siberian Railway<br />
Accommodation<br />
With most of Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong><br />
hav<strong>in</strong>g been staunch communist countries until<br />
relatively recently, there is sadly not much of a<br />
tradition of small, locally owned hotels <strong>and</strong><br />
guesthouses. This is chang<strong>in</strong>g slowly though, <strong>and</strong><br />
there are some genu<strong>in</strong>e gems that we’ve<br />
discovered on our research trips. Some of the<br />
more popular dest<strong>in</strong>ations such as Beij<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
Shanghai <strong>and</strong> St Petersburg have some smaller,<br />
more characterful options. For a truly unique<br />
experience, we can even arrange a stay <strong>in</strong> a ger<br />
tent <strong>in</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> or Mongolia. Elsewhere<br />
bus<strong>in</strong>ess orientated hotels tend to dom<strong>in</strong>ate.<br />
While these may be a little un<strong>in</strong>spir<strong>in</strong>g, they are<br />
generally of a good st<strong>and</strong>ard.<br />
Responsible travel<br />
We're passionate about travel but also deeply<br />
aware of the responsibility we have to the people<br />
<strong>and</strong> places we visit. We believe that a visit from<br />
an <strong>Audley</strong> traveller should have a positive impact<br />
on the dest<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>and</strong>, wherever possible, br<strong>in</strong>g<br />
real benefits. We always endeavour to use locally<br />
owned hotels, work with local guides <strong>and</strong><br />
operators, <strong>and</strong> promote community <strong>and</strong> wildlife<br />
projects. Our <strong>Travel</strong>ler's Code offers tips <strong>and</strong><br />
advice you can use to ensure your trip does not<br />
threaten the susta<strong>in</strong>ability of the places you visit.<br />
We carbon offset all our staff flights <strong>and</strong> you can<br />
choose to do the same, please speak to your<br />
specialist about this or follow the l<strong>in</strong>k on our<br />
website www.audleytravel.com/offset. Our<br />
commitment to responsible travel has been<br />
audited by AITO (Association of Independent<br />
Tour Operators) <strong>and</strong> we have been awarded five<br />
stars, the maximum achievable. We also support<br />
a variety of social <strong>and</strong> environmental charities <strong>and</strong><br />
projects around the world.<br />
In the past the team have raised money to<br />
purchase ger tents <strong>and</strong> support projects that help<br />
orphans <strong>and</strong> street children <strong>in</strong> Ulaan Baatar,<br />
Mongolia. We cont<strong>in</strong>ue to organise fund-rais<strong>in</strong>g<br />
events to support similar projects.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong>l<strong>in</strong>g around<br />
With<strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> we will<br />
always recommend the most convenient <strong>and</strong><br />
appropriate means of transport for the region <strong>in</strong><br />
which you are travell<strong>in</strong>g. Given the vast distances<br />
<strong>in</strong> these parts of the world, this often means<br />
fly<strong>in</strong>g. For those with a little more time, rail<br />
journeys can be a great way of enjoy<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
scenery of the region, though st<strong>and</strong>ards can vary<br />
from country to country <strong>and</strong> from route to route.<br />
When a road journey is necessary or worthwhile<br />
we use well ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed, air-conditioned vehicles,<br />
you are accompanied by a local driver, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />
most case an English-speak<strong>in</strong>g guide to illum<strong>in</strong>ate<br />
your journey.<br />
St Isaac's Cathedral, <strong>Russia</strong><br />
6<br />
Rice terraces, Ch<strong>in</strong>a
Yi m<strong>in</strong>ority women, Ch<strong>in</strong>a<br />
Cuis<strong>in</strong>e<br />
The food <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a, <strong>Russia</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong> is as<br />
diverse as the culture. Ch<strong>in</strong>ese food is famous<br />
throughout the world, of course. What is not so<br />
well known is how much it varies from region to<br />
region. With most Ch<strong>in</strong>ese food <strong>in</strong> the UK<br />
orig<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g from Hong Kong <strong>and</strong> the south of<br />
Ch<strong>in</strong>a, it can be very different to what you may<br />
have had at home. <strong>Russia</strong>n <strong>and</strong> <strong>Central</strong> <strong>Asia</strong>n<br />
cuis<strong>in</strong>e has a poor reputation but has improved<br />
markedly s<strong>in</strong>ce the fall of communism, especially<br />
<strong>in</strong> Moscow <strong>and</strong> St Petersburg <strong>in</strong> <strong>Russia</strong> where<br />
there are many excellent restaurants (both<br />
<strong>Russia</strong>n <strong>and</strong> European).<br />
Off the beaten track<br />
For those that are look<strong>in</strong>g for someth<strong>in</strong>g a little<br />
different, the region offers a plethora of<br />
opportunities to really get out there <strong>and</strong><br />
experience someth<strong>in</strong>g truly different. Each country<br />
has its ‘must-see’ sites but beyond these there are<br />
often many <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g places which receive very<br />
few visitors. Whether you’re look<strong>in</strong>g to have<br />
fantastic scenery all to yourself, take an epic<br />
overl<strong>and</strong> journey or experience rural life <strong>in</strong> the<br />
country you’re visit<strong>in</strong>g, our specialists will be able<br />
to put together a unique trip tailored to your<br />
<strong>in</strong>terests <strong>and</strong> requirements.<br />
Mosque decoration, Iran<br />
Catch<strong>in</strong>g up at the market, Yunnan<br />
Ulughbek Medressa, Uzbekistan<br />
01993 838 200 ● Introduction 7