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<strong>AsiaLIFE</strong> volume 30<br />

PROMOTION<br />

ENDS<br />

th<br />

30 SEP 2010<br />

front<br />

6 News & Events<br />

14 Q&A with Thet Sambath and<br />

Rob Lemkin<br />

16 Radar<br />

17 Streetsmart: Le Quy Don<br />

20 Photo Essay: Fred Wissink<br />

In the front of the book this month <strong>AsiaLIFE</strong> Phnom Penh writer Nora<br />

Lindström interviews documentary makers, Thet Sambath and Rob<br />

Lemkin about their newly released Khmer Rouge exposé and Tom<br />

Maresca takes us on a stroll down eclectic Le Quy Don. Fred Wissink<br />

experiments with blurred perspectives in this month’s photo essay.<br />

storyboard<br />

50 Place Your Bets<br />

52 The Power of Your Inner Circle<br />

54 Summer's Out for School<br />

56 Skeeter Beaters<br />

<strong>Brett</strong> <strong>Davis</strong> takes to the horse track; the importance of finding a mentor<br />

is explained; child psychologist Daniel Hanh shares tips to reduce<br />

back-to-school stress and Alexandra Karina fights off mosquitoes with a<br />

holistic approach.<br />

style & design<br />

24<br />

58 Out With the New, In With<br />

the Old<br />

feature<br />

24 The Measure of a Modern<br />

Generation<br />

30 Growing Pains<br />

62 Divinity by Design<br />

Moped memories are revisited; vintage store Con Qua Den on Nguyen<br />

Trai is explored, as is Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery’s unique brand<br />

of classic and timeless Eastern European-inspired style.<br />

Beth Young teams with TNS Market Research to gauge the aspirations of<br />

Vietnamese youth, while Thomas Maresca investigates the opportunities<br />

that are available to them.<br />

back<br />

64 The List<br />

104 Spotlight<br />

travel<br />

34 In Pursuit of Panduranga<br />

38 In the Land of Gibbons<br />

Our man in Mui Ne, Adam Bray hunts down Cham ruins and Tom<br />

DiChristopher discovers a serious fear of heights while zip lining through<br />

a Laotian jungle on the Gibbon Experience.<br />

106 Map<br />

112 The Essay<br />

114 Pub Quiz<br />

To sign off, we capture a glimpse of HCM City nightlife in Spotlight and<br />

challenge your general knowledge in the Pub Quiz. And, <strong>Brett</strong> <strong>Davis</strong><br />

muses about frequent houseguests in The Essay.<br />

30<br />

food<br />

40 HCM City Hideouts<br />

44 Floral Flavours<br />

46 Sterling's Saigon<br />

47 62<br />

47 Ala Mezon<br />

48 La Cafeteria de L'Usine<br />

49 Bottoms Up<br />

We search the city for its most atmospheric and tucked away cafés, bars<br />

and restaurants; scope out the market for a bouquet of edible flowers;<br />

check out L’Usine’s new eatery La Cafeteria and French-Japanese<br />

lounge Ala Mezon before putting away some Hanoi-style bia hoi.<br />

asialife HCMC 3


note from the editor<br />

Tom<br />

DiChristopher<br />

Mick Jagger perhaps said it<br />

best when he sang, “You can’t<br />

always get what you want.” This<br />

is something that Vietnam’s<br />

youth may find out in the coming<br />

decades.<br />

In this month’s feature section,<br />

deputy editor Beth Young<br />

and contributing editor Thomas<br />

Maresca contribute complimentary<br />

articles on the wants of and<br />

prospects for teenagers growing<br />

up in post-doi moi Vietnam.<br />

They are a generation growing<br />

up with unprecedented access<br />

to wealth and the world beyond<br />

Vietnam. Indeed, the country<br />

is often portrayed as the next<br />

Asian tiger, still catching up to<br />

Thailand and Malaysia but well<br />

ahead of Cambodia and Laos.<br />

In the abstract, Vietnam is a land<br />

of limitless possibility. In reality,<br />

caveats and qualifications loom<br />

on the horizon.<br />

Read together, Beth and<br />

Tom’s articles illustrate this. For<br />

example, teenagers expressed<br />

that parents often push them into<br />

“hot” (re: prestigious) jobs in the<br />

focus groups organized by market<br />

research firm TNS Vietnam<br />

that Beth attended. However,<br />

Tom’s research and interviews<br />

turned up evidence that suggests<br />

degrees in these fields do not<br />

necessarily qualify students to<br />

perform in their requisite duties.<br />

What’s more, cultural notions of<br />

prestige are contributing to an<br />

over-valuation of degrees. Meanwhile,<br />

Vietnam lacks adequate<br />

skilled workers in part because<br />

vocational school is undervalued.<br />

If Vietnam is to take advantage<br />

of the “demographic bonus” Tom<br />

explores in “Growing Pains,”<br />

change needs to happen sooner<br />

than later. That might mean<br />

re-orienting ideas about how<br />

Vietnam can continue to develop<br />

and break the trend in Southeast<br />

Asia of stalling at lower-middle<br />

income status.<br />

To do that, Vietnam and its<br />

youth might heed the second<br />

part of the Stones’ refrain: “But<br />

if you try sometime well you<br />

just might find / You get what<br />

you need.” With too few spots<br />

available to college hopefuls, it’s<br />

impossible for everyone to get<br />

what they want. It would seem<br />

that only through thoughtfulness<br />

and creativity will Vietnam’s<br />

youth be able to work within the<br />

context of this singular moment<br />

in the country’s history and fulfill<br />

their needs.<br />

<strong>AsiaLIFE</strong> Seeks Editorial Intern<br />

<strong>AsiaLIFE</strong> is seeking an intern<br />

to support our editorial<br />

team. Our ideal intern has<br />

an educational background<br />

and/or some practical experience<br />

in writing, can commit<br />

to regular office hours and<br />

has an interest in publishing<br />

as a career. Duties include<br />

writing short copy and<br />

articles, researching, factchecking<br />

and proofreading.<br />

Demonstrated command of<br />

English-language usage and<br />

grammar is a must. Please<br />

send resumes to tom@asialifehcmc.com<br />

with “editorial<br />

intern” in the subject line.<br />

<strong>Brett</strong> <strong>Davis</strong><br />

Cover<br />

<strong>Brett</strong> <strong>Davis</strong> has been peddling words in one<br />

form or another for over a decade to support<br />

various addictions. Chief among these are<br />

French restaurants, single malt whisky and<br />

his wife; although not necessarily in that<br />

order. <strong>Brett</strong> has written for newspapers,<br />

magazines and television news in Australia,<br />

China and Vietnam, and has been called<br />

"one of the best journalists in our family" by<br />

his mother. He was recently acquired by a<br />

stray cat named TC.<br />

Art Direction - 365 Days Creative Studio<br />

Photography - Fred Wissink<br />

Model - Michael Studebaker<br />

Lolita Guevarra<br />

Lolita Guevarra comes from California and<br />

returns to writing after years in academic<br />

publishing. Although she misses working<br />

with brilliant yet neurotic professors, she<br />

embraces her new challenges of learning<br />

Vietnamese and navigating traffic. Upon<br />

finishing a stint as the English editor with<br />

Vietnamese News Agency in Hanoi, she<br />

relocated to HCM City and continues writing<br />

freelance. Her musings on life can be found<br />

at tuesdayzgone.blogspot.com.<br />

Find <strong>AsiaLIFE</strong> articles on<br />

4 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 5


volume 30<br />

than hiding appliances, the stylish<br />

layout of the Ebony Kitchen<br />

Collection encourages them to<br />

be put on display, as unique<br />

and confident statement pieces.<br />

Email elizabeth.png-reade@<br />

electrolux.com for details.<br />

provide sustainable income and<br />

employment for women from<br />

poor rural regions of Vietnam<br />

and Cambodia. The range of<br />

paper mache, silk, bamboo<br />

and water hyacinth products,<br />

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON<br />

NEWS<br />

Bright Sparks<br />

Programme at ACG<br />

International School<br />

Mums and tots are invited to<br />

join the ACG Bright Sparks<br />

programme. Every Tuesday from<br />

8.15 to 9.45 am Pinar Nicholson<br />

leads fun, interactive and educational<br />

sessions for children<br />

aged between 1 and 3. It is a<br />

friendly environment for your<br />

kids to play and for you to learn<br />

about your child’s educational<br />

development while meeting<br />

other parents, and always<br />

finishes with morning tea. Bright<br />

Sparks is a free programme<br />

and is held at ACG International<br />

School located on the East-<br />

West Highway, An Phu, District<br />

2. Visit www.acgedu.com.<br />

Fashion Label Bonita Debuts<br />

District 8 Debuts<br />

HCM City-based design firm<br />

District 8 is set to open on<br />

September 10. With a strong<br />

industrial aesthetic and a focus<br />

on customization, District Eight<br />

creates clean, modern interior<br />

spaces while handcrafting and<br />

restoring both vintage and contemporary<br />

furniture. District Eight<br />

strives to preserve historically<br />

significant buildings and objects<br />

while creating modern furniture<br />

and sculptures. Raw materials,<br />

natural patinas, solid wood, and<br />

cast-iron provide the basis for a<br />

furniture line that is finished with<br />

custom exposed hardware and<br />

sealed with household wax. District<br />

Eight is currently developing<br />

a line of production furniture and<br />

lighting aimed at consumers who<br />

appreciate a vintage look but are<br />

unable or unwilling to spend the<br />

time needed to source original<br />

antiques or other architecturally<br />

significant elements. The studio<br />

is located at 343-345 Binh<br />

Dong, Ward 11, District 8.<br />

Electrolux Brings Latest<br />

in European Design to<br />

Vietnam<br />

Scandinavian company Electrolux<br />

has introduced its newest<br />

design—the black and glossy<br />

Ebony Kitchen Collection—<br />

to Vietnam. Embodying the<br />

Electrolux design philosophy, the<br />

showpiece range fuses the latest<br />

in European design with contemporary<br />

Asian style. The Ebony<br />

Kitchen Collection features<br />

streamlined black glass elements<br />

and includes appliances like a<br />

side-by-side or bottom-mount<br />

refrigerator, premium oven with<br />

touch on glass and 10 multifunctions,<br />

induction or gas cook<br />

top, dishwasher and a canopy<br />

range hood. Each piece showcases<br />

the latest in Electrolux<br />

technology with touch electronic<br />

controls, smooth flat panel doors<br />

all completed with a sleek black<br />

finish and complemented with<br />

stainless steel handles. Rather<br />

Exclusive Mooncakes at Hotel Equatorial<br />

Asian Buffet at the Sofitel<br />

Plaza<br />

Every Thursday, the Sofitel<br />

Saigon Plaza’s executive chef<br />

David Thai will prepare an Asian<br />

Buffet at the hotel’s Café Rivoli.<br />

Specialities from across the<br />

region will be on offer like Nasi-<br />

Goreng from Indonesia, Tom<br />

Yam Kum soup from Thailand<br />

and assorted sushi and sashimi<br />

from Japan, as well as dishes<br />

like chilly crab, Indian lamb curry<br />

and roasted Peking duck. A<br />

selection of Vietnamese sweets<br />

and seasonal fresh fruits are<br />

included, too, along with free<br />

flow of house wines, beers and<br />

soft drink. The Asian Buffet costs<br />

750,000 VND ++ for adults and<br />

350,000 VND for children aged<br />

between 5 and 11 and is free<br />

for younger kids. For further information<br />

or bookings call 3824<br />

1555 or email fb@sofitelsaigon.<br />

com.vn.<br />

Mekong Creations Opens<br />

to Benefit Disadvantaged<br />

Families<br />

Last month, Mekong Plus, the<br />

parent NGO of Vietnam Quilts,<br />

launched Mekong Creations, a<br />

new brand of locally produced<br />

household and gift items that<br />

New Accessories<br />

at Little Anh-Em<br />

Concept Shop<br />

Little Anh-Em Concept<br />

Shop—a children’s store<br />

that stocks an original<br />

selection of brands from<br />

overseas—has introduced<br />

French label Bakker Made<br />

With Love. The accessories<br />

range includes pencil<br />

cases and schoolbags that<br />

are perfect for stylish kids<br />

heading back to school.<br />

Little Anh-Em Concept<br />

Shop is located at 37<br />

Thao Dien, An Phu, District<br />

2. Call 0917 567 506 or<br />

visit www.littleanh-em.blog<br />

spot.com.<br />

Saigon Shooters Recruits Netballers<br />

“I chose RISS for<br />

British education<br />

at its best”<br />

Mr. Rick Yvanovich - CEO of TRG International,<br />

Parent of Safena Yvanovich (Age 9)<br />

PRE-SCHOOL - PRIMARY - SECONDARY<br />

Renaissance International School Saigon (RISS) is one of the premier<br />

international schools in Ho Chi Minh City providing a high quality<br />

British/International education that leads to the IB Diploma<br />

Programme. Students are able to develop their full potential<br />

in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment,<br />

capable of becoming leaders in the global community<br />

and experts in their chosen fields upon<br />

graduation.<br />

IB Scholarship 2010-2011<br />

50% discount on school fees available to<br />

IB Diploma students satisfying the scholarship criteria.<br />

Please visit our website: www.rissaigon.edu.vn for full details.<br />

Registration is now open for<br />

Fashion designer Silvia de Britto was a stylist in Brazil before<br />

moving to Vietnam. As such, she understands the art of<br />

putting a stylish, unique and elegant outfit together and has<br />

fashioned her label Bonita with that in mind. Each piece is tailor<br />

made and attention to detail reigns supreme. The designer<br />

works with the client to determine size and to select the best<br />

fabric (colour and pattern) to suit the garment. Once all the details<br />

are confirmed it then takes five to seven days for the piece<br />

to be created. Bonita designs cost between USD $20 to $60.<br />

Email silvietfr@yahoo.fr to request a copy of her catalogue.<br />

To celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival Hotel Equatorial will<br />

prepare high-quality boxes containing four mooncakes, priced<br />

from 360,000 to 760,000 VND. Customers can choose from<br />

eleven different flavours including pandan lotus, tiramisu,<br />

blueberry blackcurrant cheese, low sugar yam gingko, mixed<br />

spices, green bean, roast chicken, puree lotus, green tea, red<br />

bean or lotus cheese. Hotel Equatorial is located at 242 Tran<br />

Binh Trong Street, District 5. To order call (08) 839 7777 ext.<br />

8000 or email dine@hcm.equatorial.com<br />

Saigon Shooters Netball has started their season, and invites<br />

any girls or ladies wanting to give netball a go, improve their<br />

fitness and make great friends. Open training sessions will be<br />

held every week, and include fitness, ball skills, netball drills<br />

and social games. It’s a mixed league and tournaments and<br />

tours are also on the agenda for this year. Come along every<br />

Wednesday from 7 pm to 8.30 pm for practice at the AIS Sport<br />

Center (Thao Dien, District 2). The cost is 100,000 VND per<br />

session. Email saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com for details<br />

Academic year 2010 - 2011<br />

Pre-schools ( ages 2+ – 4+)<br />

Primary (ages 5+ – 10+)<br />

Secondary (ages 11+ – 17+)<br />

NGUYEN THI THAP CAMPUS - PRE -SCHOOL, PRIMARY & SECONDARY<br />

Address: 74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Binh Thuan Ward, District 7, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam<br />

6 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 7<br />

Tel: (84-8) 377 33 171 - Fax: (84-8) 377 33 176 - Email: admission@rissaigon.edu.vn


as well as items produced for<br />

luxury French brand Terre d'Oc,<br />

are available at a flagship shop<br />

at 141 Bui Vien that returns<br />

all profits to the villages both<br />

directly in the form of salaries<br />

and indirectly in funding for community<br />

development projects.<br />

Mekong Creations focus is to<br />

provide rewarding employment,<br />

increase family incomes and<br />

improve conditions for children in<br />

these remote communities.<br />

Vietnamese Champs<br />

Advance to Faldo Series<br />

Asia Grand Final<br />

Seventeen-year-old Ngo Bao<br />

Nghi has earned herself a return<br />

trip to the Faldo Series Asia<br />

Grand Final by successfully<br />

defending her title at the Faldo<br />

Series Vietnam Championship,<br />

played at the Nick Faldo<br />

designed Ocean Dunes Golf<br />

Club in Phan Thiet. Last year’s<br />

winner from Vung Tau got off to<br />

a flying start in her title defense,<br />

shooting a first round 75 on the<br />

par 72 links-style layout to open<br />

up a three shot lead over the rest<br />

of the field. Ngo’s main challenge<br />

on a windy day two came from<br />

Do Le Gia Dat, 16, who followed<br />

up his first round 78 with a 77 to<br />

finish on 155, but Ngo was able<br />

to hold on with a 79 to finish one<br />

better on 154 and reclaim the<br />

trophy. As winners of the Girls’<br />

and Boys’ Under-21 divisions,<br />

Ngo and Do will travel to Mission<br />

Hills Golf Club in Shenzhen,<br />

China next March for the fifth<br />

Grand Final, an R&A World Amateur<br />

Golf Ranking event hosted<br />

by six-time Major winner Sir Nick<br />

Faldo.<br />

Gaya Introduces Mirror<br />

Collection<br />

Lifestyle shop Gaya has<br />

introduced an eclectic mix of<br />

cut glass mirrored products in<br />

minimalist black or white. The<br />

collection is inspired by the<br />

paired down, clean lines and<br />

fresh look of contemporary<br />

European designs and includes<br />

12 different mirror designs; five<br />

vanity table designs and headboards;<br />

and smaller items such<br />

as jewellery boxes, vanity cases<br />

or bathroom accessories including<br />

soap dishes and toothbrush<br />

holders. Prices are from USD<br />

$25 to $780.<br />

Saigon Star International<br />

School to Open in<br />

October<br />

Saigon Star International School<br />

will open its new campus in<br />

District 2 next month after relocating<br />

from its previous District<br />

1 location. The school offers a<br />

Cambridge University approved<br />

British primary curriculum as<br />

well as an integrated Montessori<br />

programme for nursery<br />

and kindergarten. Qualified and<br />

experienced teachers and small<br />

classes ensure that individual<br />

needs are met. The new location<br />

will include a computer lab,<br />

library, science lab, swimming<br />

pool and large fenced-in play<br />

area. For details call 3822 0341<br />

or visit www.saigonstarschool.<br />

edu.vn.<br />

La Maison de<br />

L’Apothiquaire Relocates<br />

Traditional French day spa La<br />

Maison de L’Apothiquaire has<br />

relocated from its premises in<br />

the Eden building to 100 Mac<br />

Thi Buoi. Now, the spa has even<br />

more products available, namely<br />

the Erbaviva line, which includes<br />

nourishing beauty essentials<br />

for mothers to be, babies and<br />

customers with extremely sensitive<br />

skin. Erbaviva has a huge<br />

celebrity following and also<br />

makes aluminum-free organic<br />

deodorant and Japanese blotting<br />

papers.<br />

New Brand Stocked at<br />

Muse Boutique<br />

Muse Boutique stocks street<br />

fashion from famous brands like<br />

True Religion, Rock & Republic,<br />

Seven For All Mankind and<br />

Tbags and has now added<br />

Cheap Monday, a youthful and<br />

mischievous label, to its collection.<br />

Visit Muse Boutique on<br />

level 1 at the Saigon Center,<br />

located at 65 Le Loi, District 1.<br />

Mekong Merchant Offers<br />

Hot Deal for Teachers<br />

Teachers who present their<br />

school identification and fill out<br />

a form at the Mekong Merchant<br />

located at 23 Thao Dien, An Phu<br />

will be given an incentive card<br />

that allows them 10 percent<br />

discount on all food and beverage.<br />

The Mekong Merchant also<br />

has happy hour daily from 4 pm<br />

to 7pm.<br />

New Musical Talent at Purple Jade<br />

Visit Purple Jade, located on the first floor of the InterContinental<br />

Asiana, and enjoy the musical talents of Canadian<br />

singer, Karen Manion—a performer who has graced stages<br />

from London to Niagara and across Southeast Asia. While she<br />

performs, your first cocktail at Purple Jade is complimentary<br />

and 15 percent will be deducted off your total beverage bill.<br />

The InterContinental Asiana is located at the corner of Hai Ba<br />

Trung and Le Duan in District 1.<br />

They’ll be safe<br />

in our hands<br />

Our smallest patients - respecting their<br />

needs is our biggest concern<br />

Mooncakes at Windsor Plaza Hotel<br />

Our three Full-time Pediatric Specialists are<br />

on hand for all your childrens medical needs<br />

• download the latest issues<br />

• advertising information<br />

• editorial enquiries<br />

.<br />

editorial blog<br />

asialife.wordpress.com<br />

over 2,500 downloads a month<br />

Through September 22 the Windsor Plaza Hotel will prepare<br />

mooncakes. Fillings include white lotus seeds; green bean;<br />

coconut and green tea or more exotic flavours like shark fin or<br />

roast chicken. The mooncakes are 108,000 VND per piece.<br />

Rich icecream mooncakes are on offer, too, for 48,000 VND<br />

each. Orders can be placed online at www.windsorplazahotel.<br />

com/mooncake.<br />

• Primary pediatric emergency responses<br />

• Routine childhood development assessment<br />

• Post natal examinations<br />

• Immunisation advice<br />

• Vaccination<br />

• Nutritional counselling<br />

• New mother support<br />

• Pre-school check-ups<br />

Family Medical Practice HCMC<br />

Diamond Plaza: 34 Le Duan Street, District 1, HCMC<br />

For appointments and emergency care 24 hours:<br />

(84 8) 3822 7848<br />

www.vietnammedicalpractice.com<br />

Your health. Our care.<br />

• Emergency Medicine • Medical Evacuations • General Practice • Internal Medicine • Pediatrics<br />

• Obstetrics & Gynecology • Orthopedic & Trauma Surgery • Cardiology • ENT • Tropical Medicine<br />

8 asialife HCMC • Radiology • Imaging • Ambulance Service • In-house Laboratory asialife • Acupuncture HCMC • First 9Aid Training<br />

• Child Birth Education • Saigon International Mother Baby Association • Medical Check-ups


EVENTS<br />

Thirsty Thursdays Tourism<br />

Industry Networking<br />

Thirsty Thursday, Southeast<br />

Asia’s biggest tourism industry<br />

networking event, returns to<br />

HCM City on September 16,<br />

6 pm at Roof Garden Saigon<br />

at Kumho Plaza (next to Intercontinental<br />

Saigon). 
The event,<br />

organized by Saigon Tourism<br />

Industry Networking Group<br />

and Travel Daily Asia, features<br />

complimentary beer provided by<br />

Tiger Beer, complimentary wine<br />

provided by The Warehouse and<br />

free snacks/soft drinks provided<br />

by the venue and sponsored by<br />

TRG International/eHotel Alliance.<br />

There will also be a lucky<br />

draw with prizes donated by Life<br />

Resorts, Victoria Hotels, Bhaya<br />

Cruises, Duxton Hotel, Petit<br />

Fute, The Boathouse and Come<br />

& Go Vietnam. 
Entrance is free<br />

of charge to anyone working in<br />

the tourism and hospitality industry,<br />

while non-tourism guests<br />

can enter for a nominal 100,000<br />

VND fee. For more information,<br />

please contact Tim Russell on<br />

tim@comeandgovietnam.com,<br />

telephone 0903 393 723.<br />

EuroCham Seminar on<br />

WTO & Vietnam<br />

On Tuesday, September 7,<br />

Eurocham will host a seminar to<br />

demystify a major component<br />

of Vietnam’s impending World<br />

Trade Organization commitments<br />

for international businesspeople.<br />

“CISG – The Rule of Law”<br />

focuses on the United Nations<br />

Convention on Contracts for<br />

the International Sale of Goods<br />

(CISG), one of the most widelyrecognized<br />

conventions in the<br />

world with 74 contracting states.<br />

While Vietnam will soon become<br />

a member of CISG, most<br />

organizations and enterprises in<br />

Vietnam don’t know much about<br />

the CISG. This half-day seminar<br />

will explain and introduce the<br />

main contents of the CISG. The<br />

Clearance Sale at<br />

Tracey Kociuruba<br />

Fashion Gallery<br />

Selected T-shirts, shorts,<br />

jumpsuits and dresses<br />

from Australian fashion designer<br />

Tracey Kociuruba’s<br />

last collection will be on<br />

sale for USD $5 to $15<br />

on September 11 and 12.<br />

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion<br />

Gallery is located on the<br />

2nd floor at 43 Ton That<br />

Thiep, District 1.<br />

event is free of charge and will<br />

take place at 11.30 am at Kim<br />

Do Hotel, 133 Nguyen Hue,<br />

District 1.<br />

Jack Canfield Seminar at<br />

Equatorial<br />

Prolific author and success guru<br />

Jack Canfield will arrive in HCM<br />

City on September 29 at the<br />

Equatorial Hotel to present his<br />

seminar “Breakthrough Results<br />

in Work and Life.” During the fullday<br />

event, Canfield will instruct<br />

the audience on how to apply his<br />

trademark concepts: The Success<br />

Principles and the Law of<br />

Attraction. The aim is to empower<br />

audience members to build<br />

resilience and develop the core<br />

competencies required to thrive<br />

and achieve peak performance<br />

Unicorn Girls and The Melodramas at the<br />

Hard Rock Café<br />

Through September 15, lady rockers, the Unicorn Girls will<br />

perform nightly (except Thursdays) at the Hard Rock Café. On<br />

September 2, UK-phenomenon, punk rock outfit The Melodramas<br />

will play with support from Vietnamese funk reggae band<br />

6789. Entry is 100,000 VND. The Hard Rock Café is located<br />

in the Kumho Asiana Plaza (39 Le Duan, District 1). Call 6291<br />

7595 or email info@hardrockcafe.vn.<br />

even in the most challenging<br />

and turbulent times. Discounted<br />

group registration fees and halfprice<br />

scholarship packages for<br />

full-time nonprofit and education<br />

staff will also be made available.<br />

Email itdhcmc@itdworld.com or<br />

visit www.itdworld.com for more<br />

information.<br />

Villa Anupa in An Phu<br />

Throughout September Villa<br />

Anupa Boutique will retails its<br />

products in selected locations<br />

in An Phu. A different country<br />

or region has inspired each<br />

collection and the venues have<br />

been selected to reflect this. The<br />

idea is to follow Villa Anupa on<br />

a worldwide expedition as the<br />

boutique travels throughout An<br />

Phu. Villa Anupa Boutique will<br />

display their wares from 9 am to<br />

2 pm in the following locations:<br />

• Morocco collection:<br />

Wednesday September 1 at<br />

67 Xuan Thuy.<br />

• Bali collection: Friday September<br />

10 at Saigon Village,<br />

poolside at the Villa Hotel,<br />

195 Nguyen Van Huong.<br />

• French Riviera collection:<br />

Friday September 17 at Blu<br />

Bar and Grill Restaurant,<br />

53 Vo Truong Toan.<br />

• Indochina collection: Friday<br />

September 24, Saigon Village,<br />

The Villa Hotel.<br />

Villa Anupa Boutique is located<br />

at 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District<br />

1. Call 3825 7307, email anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net<br />

or<br />

visit www.anupa.net for details.<br />

Alice in the Wonderland:<br />

The Charity Cabaret<br />

On Saturday September 11 from<br />

7.30 pm the Sheraton Hotel will<br />

host an Alice in Wonderlandthemed<br />

charity cabaret to raise<br />

money for a charity that is selected<br />

from a list of applicants.<br />

There will be live entertainment<br />

from DanCenter and a DJ will<br />

play late into the night. Attendees<br />

are encouraged to come<br />

in fancy dress, however it’s not<br />

required. Tickets are USD $90.<br />

For availability call 0908 360 004<br />

or 0903 736 459, email charitycabaret@gmail.com<br />

or visit<br />

www.charitycabaret.com.<br />

CanCham Pancake Breakfast & Health<br />

Insurance Seminar<br />

On Thursday September 9, the CanCham will host a pancakes<br />

‘n’ Maple Syrup Breakfast and seminar entitled “Health Insurance:<br />

Do’s and Don’ts” at 7.30 am at Jaspa’s, 33 Dong Khoi,<br />

District 1. Gary E. H. Dawson, general director of Blue Cross<br />

Vietnam, will cover the best way for a person to use health insurance,<br />

some of the areas to consider when reviewing your insurance<br />

and the basics of what health insurance does and what<br />

it doesn’t do. All attendees must register in advance through<br />

the CanCham office by contacting Ms. Nhung at hcmc@canchamvietnam.org<br />

or 3824-3754. The cost is 200,000 VND for<br />

CanCham members, 250,000 for non-members.<br />

10 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 11


Oktoberfest at the<br />

Windsor Plaza Hotel<br />

The Windsor Plaza Hotel and the<br />

German Business Association<br />

have teamed up to bring Oktoberfest<br />

to Saigon for the 19th<br />

year running. Last year’s festival<br />

saw over 12,000 guests converge<br />

on the hotel and this year<br />

organizers expect even more<br />

beer lovers to attend. As such,<br />

another day has been added to<br />

the festival. This year the event<br />

will run from 6.30 pm on Friday<br />

October 8 to Sunday the 10th<br />

and again from Wednesday the<br />

13th to Saturday the 16th. Native<br />

Bavarian band, Trenkwalder<br />

will return for the third year to entertain<br />

the crowd with traditional<br />

songs and a delectable spread<br />

of German delicates like sausages,<br />

sauerkraut, pork knuckle and<br />

pretzel will be available. What’s<br />

more, each guest will receive a<br />

free souvenir beer stein. Tickets<br />

for Wednesday, Thursday and<br />

Sunday are 600,000 VND and<br />

Friday and Saturday costs<br />

750,000 VND. Ages 18 and up<br />

only. For ticket information and<br />

volume discounts call 0904 909<br />

633 or visit www.oktoberfestvietnam.com.<br />

Vietnam Swans Grand<br />

Final Party<br />

On September 25, Australian<br />

Rules football team the Vietnam<br />

Swans will host their AFL Grand<br />

Final Party at La Cantine Onthe6<br />

(6 Dong Khoi, District 1). Kick off<br />

is at 9 am and the event includes<br />

drinks, Aussie meat pies and<br />

face painting for the kids. There<br />

will also be an auction and raffles.<br />

A limited number of early bird<br />

tickets are available for 650,000<br />

VND for adults and 300,000<br />

VND for kids under 18 and can<br />

purchased at the Commonwealth<br />

Bank (65 Nguyen Du, District<br />

1) or AUSTRADE (5F Landmark<br />

Building). Tickets at the door will<br />

cost 750,000 VND for adults and<br />

350,000 VND for kids under 18.<br />

Children under five can enter for<br />

free. For details call Jo on 0906<br />

615 958, email vietnamswans@<br />

gmail.com or visit www.vietnamswans.com.<br />

Black Virgin Mountain Hike<br />

On Saturday, September 25, outdoor adventure company Viet<br />

Adventure will host the 2nd annual Black Virgin Mountain Hike,<br />

a challenging trek through a rugged, outstanding landscape of<br />

bush land. The hike is open to experienced and novice sportsmen<br />

and women alike, with a pre-climb 25km mountain bike<br />

race on difficult off-road terrain open to skilled cyclists. The hike<br />

is being marketed as “an event without a trace,” with proceeds<br />

from the race going towards clean up on the mountain. Black<br />

Virgin Mountain is located in Tay Ninh Province, roughly 150km<br />

from HCM City. For event registration and details, visit www.<br />

vietadventure.vn.<br />

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12 asialife HCMC


dispatches<br />

Travel news from around the region and beyond<br />

Travel Deal: Moviemaking Weekend at Opposite<br />

House, Beijing<br />

The Deal: The Opposite House in Beijing has partnered with Apple and Canon<br />

to launch Suitcase Cinema, a weekend package through December that gives<br />

amateur moviemakers the resources to create their own films with the hotel as<br />

a backdrop.<br />

The Setting: The Opposite House is located in Sanlitun Village—a vibrant new<br />

open-plan shopping, dining and entertainment precinct. The hotel’s studio<br />

rooms are decorated with natural wooden flooring and accentuated with subtle<br />

Chinese décor. The space, matched with the historical landmarks that surround<br />

it, provides a blank canvas for amateur film crews to bring their ideas to fruition.<br />

The Verdict: The just over USD $400 price tag includes breakfast for two,<br />

bicycle rental, a limited edition Short Stays DVD featuring movies shot at the<br />

Opposite House by Chinese directors and use of the hotel’s Studio 70, fitted<br />

with a 24-inch iMac and Canon camcorder. For details, visit www.theoppositehouse.com.<br />

Beth Young<br />

Bangkok International Festival of Music and Dance<br />

From September 11 through October 24, Bangkok hosts the 12th Annual<br />

International Festival of Dance and Music. Thailand’s premier international<br />

arts event, the festival will present 17 stage productions by artists and theatres<br />

from Argentina, Canada, Switzerland, Israel, Cuba, the United Kingdom,<br />

Brazil, South Korea, Sweden and Russia. Among the performances are La<br />

Boheme, Cinderella, Swan Lake, A Christmas Carol and Carmina Burana.<br />

In addition to ballet and opera, festival-goers can enjoy salsa, tango, jazz,<br />

modern and ethnic dance and classical music. Also premiering this year is<br />

Boris Tishchenko’s “Requiem Æternam for Princess Galyani," a special commission<br />

in memory of King Bhumibol’s elder sister, the festival’s patron until<br />

her death in 2008. For ticketing, schedules and more information, visit www.<br />

bangkokfestivals.com. Tom DiChristopher<br />

Taipei Biennial 2010<br />

Beginning September 7, the 2010 Taipei Biennial begins its two-month engagement<br />

at the Taipei Arts Museum. Since 1998, the Biennial has been organized by<br />

a two-person team comprised of a Taiwanese and foreign curator. This year, cocurators<br />

Tirdad Zolghadr and Hongjohn Lin abandon the traditional exhibition<br />

theme and seek instead to address the problematic nature of the biennial format<br />

with a programme that asks whether the format can be applied “more precisely,<br />

more effectively, for everyone involved." To provide an answer, the curators will<br />

involve the artists in a wider process as co-curators and seek to build on ideas<br />

and projects from previous Taipei Biennials. Throughout the engagement, independent<br />

spaces in Taiwan will host satellite events, and “critical companions” are<br />

invited to voice interventions. For more information visit www.tfam.museum.<br />

Tom DiChristopher<br />

YourSingapore.com Launches<br />

The Singapore Tourist Board has long hosted probably the best and most functional<br />

destination website in Southeast Asia, but STB recently transformed its<br />

web presence with the launch of a new brand: YourSingapore. Evolving from<br />

the UniquelySingapore.com portal, YourSingapore.com continues to offer comprehensive<br />

information, but the site’s new architecture incorporates more intuitive<br />

browsing via an eye-catching checkerboard gallery that highlights sights<br />

and attractions that might have otherwise gone unnoticed. The centrepiece<br />

trip-planning utility also contributes to a more convenient experience. Users can<br />

now save events and city listings while browsing, then navigate to the trip-planner<br />

and arrange selected items into an itinerary, with the option of dragging and<br />

dropping from saved and suggested listings windows. A mapping option also<br />

allows you to find attractions, shopping, hotels, dining and entertainment in the<br />

vicinity. Tom DiChristopher<br />

Grease Hits Hong Kong<br />

From October 4 to 21, the international cast of the West End production of<br />

Grease takes the stage at the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts for<br />

a limited engagement of the much-loved musical. Featuring a 25-member<br />

cast, 142 costume changes and songs from both the original stage show<br />

and blockbuster film adaptation, this new production is a lavish revival of<br />

the classic 1950s tale of school days at Rydell High, where the T-Birds and<br />

Pink Ladies hold court as the coolest kids in school. It’s a rare opportunity<br />

to indulge in West End theatre without making the trans-continental flight.<br />

Ticket prices start at HK $350 (USD $45), with shows held Tuesday through<br />

Sunday. Visit www.lunchbox-productions.com for more information. Tom<br />

DiChristopher<br />

14 asialife HCMC


Thet<br />

Sambath<br />

and Rob<br />

Lemkin<br />

A personal journey to uncover the horrors of the Khmer Rouge becomes a powerful,<br />

landmark documentary in Enemies of the People. Nora Lindström talks to filmmakers<br />

Thet Sambath and Rob Lemkin.<br />

Enemies of the People is the<br />

culmination of years of hard<br />

work and gaining the confidence<br />

of former Khmer Rouge<br />

cadre. How do you feel now<br />

that it is done?

<br />

Thet Sambath: I feel very<br />

happy. When I got all this done<br />

I felt like we are all lucky to<br />

have these interviews from<br />

Khmer Rouge cadre and especially<br />

from Nuon Chea, Brother<br />

Number Two. If we had gone to<br />

trial without these interviews<br />

we would have missed all this<br />

information... I feel happy and<br />

lucky for all people. 
<br />

Did completing the film and<br />

releasing it to the public bring<br />

you closure?

<br />

TS: Yes, it did. Everything<br />

that I have done is for the<br />

new generation and for the<br />

Cambodian people. When the<br />

people get more information<br />

good things between people<br />

can happen. Like reconciliation,<br />

people learn not to take<br />

revenge and instead people<br />

will find out how to resolve the<br />

problem. That is my dream for<br />

the future.
But at the beginning<br />

when I started investigating I<br />

just wanted to know what was<br />

behind the killing of so many<br />

people. The Khmer Rouge leaders,<br />

especially the top leaders,<br />

always refute that they killed<br />

the people. The Cambodian<br />

people are unhappy with the<br />

answers from the top Khmer<br />

Rouge. But because we get<br />

confessions from them, people<br />

can get peace. 

<br />

The film features unprecedented<br />

confessions by former<br />

Khmer Rouge cadre, especially<br />

Nuon Chea. How did you<br />

manage to get them to talk? 

<br />

TS: It was hard, I tried for<br />

many years. It was a step-bystep<br />

process. I’ve known some<br />

of these people for five or 10<br />

years. 
I knew that these people<br />

had experience with the Khmer<br />

Rouge, that they killed people.<br />

But they had never confessed,<br />

because they felt embarrassed<br />

and uncomfortable. But I knew<br />

about these people and that’s<br />

why I tried to get close to them.<br />

When we get close to each<br />

other and trust each other, then<br />

everything will come out, the<br />

truth will come out. So I got<br />

everything. 

<br />

Rob Lemkin: In the film<br />

Sambath says many times “I<br />

am not from the court, tell me<br />

the truth.” For years people<br />

have been coming to the Khmer<br />

Rouge, from Pol Pot all the way<br />

down to the killers from the<br />

countryside, to say “I accuse<br />

you, I have evidence you did<br />

this”. And [the killers] immediately<br />

react to that by saying<br />

“I don’t know anything about<br />

it. I did nothing.”
Sambath’s<br />

approach to the whole thing<br />

is completely different. His<br />

approach is very, very, careful,<br />

even respectful. Surprisingly<br />

respectful toward people who<br />

many in the world would<br />

regard as not worthy of any<br />

kind of respect. He does not<br />

come in any spirit of accusation.<br />

He comes in the spirit of<br />

trying to say, “I know what you<br />

were involved with was very<br />

great and terrible. Tell me what<br />

you know and tell what you<br />

did.”

That is such a different<br />

attitude from the Extraordinary<br />

Chambers in the Courts of<br />

Cambodia (ECCC), which is a<br />

criminal justice procedure that<br />

simply seeks to get guilty verdicts.<br />

That is why that kind of<br />

process is extremely limited by<br />

comparison to the kind of work<br />

that Sambath is doing.
My<br />

personal view is that the ECCC<br />

will do nothing towards socially<br />

reconstructing the country<br />

and that what Sambath is doing<br />

represents something far more<br />

inspiring and positive. 

<br />

Was the potential of Sambath’s<br />

material immediately obvious<br />

to you? 

<br />

RL: Sambath had started to<br />

film interviews with Nuon<br />

Chea and some other people<br />

who are in the film about one<br />

or two months before we met<br />

back in September 2006 when<br />

I came to do a film about the<br />

Khmer Rouge trial. Initially<br />

Sambath was working for me<br />

as a fixer, but over the coming<br />

months we joined forces. For<br />

a while I was still trying to do<br />

a film about the trial, but then<br />

I became less interested in<br />

that. Then I realized Sambath<br />

had a relationship with Nuon<br />

Chea, and he told me about<br />

his relationship with people in<br />

the countryside, and I thought<br />

that was more interesting. So it<br />

wasn’t an immediate thing. It<br />

was gradual. After about seven<br />

or eight months from when we<br />

started filming, not with Nuon<br />

Chea but with the killers in<br />

the countryside, that’s when I<br />

realized we had a film. Because<br />

although the interviews with<br />

Nuon Chea are the ones that<br />

are newsworthy, the heart of<br />

the film really is the relationship<br />

with the ordinary people<br />

who were involved in this<br />

chain of killing.

<br />

The documentary has met<br />

with a lot of success, including<br />

winning the Special Jury Prize<br />

at Sundance and the Grand<br />

Jury Award at the Full Frame<br />

Documentary Festival. Did<br />

you expect so much international<br />

publicity and acclaim?

<br />

RL: To be honest, no. When we<br />

started right at the beginning,<br />

it looked like it was just going<br />

to be a half an hour programme<br />

for British TV which would<br />

have been finished a long<br />

time ago. And maybe even<br />

forgotten about a long time<br />

ago too. 

Gradually, it became<br />

possible to widen the scope of<br />

the film so that it had more profound<br />

content. The universal<br />

aspect of the story—of good<br />

and evil, of repentance, of the<br />

horror of mass killings, and the<br />

idea of a victim coming to see<br />

the people who destroyed his<br />

world as a child and coming in<br />

a genuinely open and almost<br />

tolerant sprit in the interest<br />

of getting a deeper story, a<br />

deeper truth out of it all—that<br />

has got a wider theme. It’s<br />

not just about Cambodia and<br />

I think that’s why the film–in<br />

pretty much every country–has<br />

been so well received and won<br />

prizes. 

<br />

The documentary’s screening<br />

in Cambodia took place just<br />

before Duch’s verdict was anticipated.<br />

Was this your plan?

<br />

RL: Yes. It was intentional to<br />

have it around this time. The<br />

court has tried to subpoena<br />

the film as evidence in the case<br />

against Nuon Chea. We’ve<br />

resisted that and have come<br />

under some criticism from the<br />

court for that because I don’t<br />

think they have appreciated the<br />

nature of proper journalism.<br />

When you have a relationship<br />

with someone who is giving<br />

you some very vital information,<br />

you get that information<br />

from the person on a certain<br />

basis. You can’t then turn<br />

around to a court process and<br />

hand over that information to<br />

them. They’ve accused us of<br />

letting the Khmer Rouge walk<br />

free. Our line would be that<br />

if you have 2 million dollars,<br />

which is 1.99 million more than<br />

we have, you can do your work<br />

and get your own information.<br />

It’s not our problem if you can’t<br />

convict these people.

<br />

[The court] is not interested<br />

in reconciliation. They’re not<br />

interested in seeing this society<br />

go forward in any kind of way.<br />

We’re showing it here now<br />

partly also because it is opening<br />

next week in America, and we<br />

wanted to release it here before<br />

anywhere else because this is<br />

the most important place. We<br />

originally wanted to show it<br />

earlier but the government<br />

refused us permission. Ideally<br />

we would have showed it in a<br />

big cinema with thousands of<br />

Cambodians coming to see it,<br />

but we didn’t get permission to<br />

do that.
In the future we would<br />

like to show the film around the<br />

Cambodian countryside. Even<br />

the guys who did the killings<br />

want the film to be shown all<br />

around Cambodia.

<br />

What do you hope audiences,<br />

especially Khmer viewers, will<br />

take away from the film? 

<br />

TS: I think that after they see<br />

the film they will get some<br />

knowledge and some people<br />

can understand and they can<br />

feel better from the confession.<br />

Because for many years it has<br />

been hard to get confessions,<br />

especially from Khmer Rouge<br />

leaders and the people who<br />

did the killings. I’m waiting for<br />

their reactions.<br />

16 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 17


adar<br />

The Selby is in Your Place<br />

www.theselby.com<br />

What can a spigot, doorframe or bookshelf say about the occupant of a<br />

home? A lot, thinks Todd Selby. Since 2008, Selby has been pulling back the<br />

curtain on some of the coolest living and working spaces in the world and<br />

building a name for himself as an alchemist of portrait, interior and fashion<br />

photography on his website www.theselby.com. The Details photo assistantturned-phenom<br />

began capturing friends in their New York residences, but<br />

once word got out, invitations from the hipsterati of home decor began<br />

pouring in. His portfolio has since grown to include spaces occupied by<br />

cultural luminaries like Tom Wolfe and Robert Longo and fashion icons such<br />

as Alexander Wang and Karl Lagerfeld. Selby’s approach has also earned him<br />

contracts with the likes of Louis Vuitton and high profile commissions, including<br />

a gig shooting New York <strong>Magazine</strong>’s entire 2009 design issue. Not bad<br />

for a dude with a camera. Check out @theselby for tweets on his latest home<br />

invasions. Tom DiChristopher<br />

Le Quy Don packs a lot into a limited space—restaurants,<br />

sightseeing and a lively nighttime atmosphere among<br />

some beautiful old colonial homes. Thomas Maresca<br />

explores. Photos by Jay Zhang.<br />

Fake AP Stylebook<br />

@FakeAPStylebook<br />

AP Stylebook: /n/ a guide to style and grammar that serves as the newspaper<br />

industry standard in the United States. Fake AP Stylebook: /n/ a Twitter<br />

feed that should be regarded as the standard for absolutely nothing—except<br />

linguistic one-liners, satirical citations and precedent puns. That said, you<br />

don’t have to know how to wield a semi-colon to enjoy Fake AP Stylebook.<br />

Throughout the week, the Fake AP tweeters dispatch dubious advice along<br />

the lines of, “‘Men’s room’ should contain an apostrophe. And a urinal.” and<br />

“Remember to end every sentence in your sports column with a healthy<br />

‘booyah!’” The advice is courtesy of the Bureau Chiefs (www.thebureauchiefs.com),<br />

a band of journalists, writers, artists, graphic designers and<br />

other like-minded satirists and pop culture commentators. For anyone who's<br />

ever wanted a view into editorial office culture, this is basically it, folks: jokes<br />

about homophones. (Maybe we should have gone into advertising. It looks so<br />

sexy on Mad Men.) Tom DiChristopher<br />

ThinkGeek: Stuff for Smart Masses<br />

www.thinkgeek.com<br />

These days, geek is a lifestyle, not a putdown. ThinkGeek has absolutely<br />

everything for the discriminating techno-nerd. There are plenty of novelty<br />

items, like the Annoy-a-tron (six irritating sounds including cricket chirping<br />

and electronic grating), a BeerBot bottle opening T-shirt—even a whole<br />

section dedicated to zombies and bacon. There’s also an array of products<br />

on offer that could actually come in handy. The mini filing cabinet, which at a<br />

petite 6.5 inches can fit more than 800 business cards, is just one example.<br />

Customers can also sign up for an incentive programme and redeem Geek<br />

points for dorky gadgets, apparel and edible treats (wasabi-flavoured gumballs,<br />

anyone?). There’s an interactive element, too. Readers are encouraged<br />

to send in their own Techie Haikus (Told my boss swine flu / but I really came<br />

down with / Modern Warfare 2) and self-portraits with ThinkGeek products.<br />

Suitable even for non-geeks. Beth Young<br />

Le Quy Don extends from the<br />

northern end of the Reunification<br />

Palace a scant six blocks<br />

to Vo Thi Sau (where it meets<br />

the Women’s Museum, 202 Vo<br />

Thi Sau). Like other streets in<br />

this immediate area of District<br />

3, Le Quy Don is home to<br />

a large proportion of wellpreserved<br />

old colonial buildings.<br />

It also stands out for its<br />

concentration of restaurants,<br />

including some of the most<br />

popular in town, and it shares<br />

a corner with one of HCM<br />

City’s top tourist attractions. A<br />

frenzy of construction is going<br />

on, with a couple of large new<br />

restaurants being built and<br />

residential buildings going up,<br />

so this information may be in<br />

need of an updating sooner<br />

rather than later. Like all of<br />

HCM City, really.<br />

Mini-You<br />

3 Le Quy Don<br />

Looking for a unique and<br />

slightly ridiculous gift for a<br />

friend or loved one? How<br />

about a miniature figurine in<br />

their likeness? All it takes is<br />

a photo, and in two to three<br />

weeks, Mini-You will supply<br />

a hand-sculpted, caricaturized<br />

version of your lucky friend,<br />

doing any of a wide range of<br />

activities—from watching TV<br />

to playing golf to chilling on a<br />

yacht to getting married. The<br />

choice is yours. Prices start at<br />

around 1.1 million VND.<br />

War Remnants Museum<br />

28 Vo Van Tan<br />

Probably the first stop on any<br />

tourist’s itinerary in HCM City,<br />

the War Remnants Museum<br />

offers a slightly faded but stillpoignant<br />

accounting of the war<br />

with America. The spoils of said<br />

war await visitors in the exterior<br />

courtyard of the compound,<br />

from a CH-47 Chinook helicopter<br />

to an M-48 tank to a massive<br />

155 mm Howitzer. The interior<br />

of the main building is devoted<br />

to photographs and artefacts of<br />

the war, with special emphasis<br />

on atrocities such as the massacre<br />

at My Lai and the damage<br />

done by Agent Orange (this<br />

used to be called the War Crimes<br />

Museum, after all).<br />

The Requiem exhibit, a moving<br />

tribute to the photojournalists<br />

from every side who died<br />

covering the war, is a highlight.<br />

A temporary exhibition, Vietnam’s<br />

Post-War Recovery, is<br />

currently on display, featuring<br />

before-and-after photos of cities<br />

and towns that were damaged<br />

during the war and have since<br />

been rebuilt. If nothing else, the<br />

museum is a powerful reminder<br />

of how far Vietnam has come<br />

since the dark days of the war.<br />

WE Lounge<br />

172H Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

Open for four months now, this<br />

slick glass-walled establishment<br />

features a ground-floor restaurant,<br />

a first-floor lounge,<br />

18 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 19


and a top floor entertainment<br />

venue. The restaurant, bright<br />

and decked out in futuristic<br />

white plastic, features several<br />

varieties of bun noodles at reasonable<br />

prices. The lounge goes<br />

for the opposite vibe—dark and<br />

sleek, with black furniture and<br />

moody curtains. The entertainment<br />

space holds performances<br />

on the weekends, usually of<br />

well-known Vietnamese singers<br />

such as Hoang Bach. Admission<br />

is 100,000 VND, or 200,000 VND<br />

for VIP seating. A glass elevator<br />

with views over the street<br />

transports visitors between<br />

floors. WE is affiliated with its<br />

neighbour further up the street,<br />

Pho Ta.<br />

Ngoc Suong Restaurant<br />

17 Le Quy Don<br />

This seafood staple is celebrating<br />

its 55th anniversary, a<br />

rare feat of longevity for any<br />

Vietnamese institution. The<br />

original restaurant was started<br />

in Cam Ranh and there are<br />

now several locations around<br />

the country. The Le Quy Don<br />

location is run by the founder’s<br />

grandson Alan, who returned<br />

to Vietnam from St. Tropez nine<br />

years ago and brought some of<br />

the French Riviera back with<br />

him. Ngoc Suong is meant to<br />

evoke a Mediterranean open-air<br />

plaza, complete with canopied<br />

bistro fronts and an enormous<br />

wall-size print of a seaside<br />

promenade. Live seafood, music<br />

nightly and frequent parties and<br />

events keep the large outdoor<br />

space always lively and always<br />

full. A sister restaurant, Marina,<br />

is right around the corner at 172<br />

Nguyen Dinh Chieu and offers<br />

more of an indoor, fine-dining<br />

experience.<br />

Pho Ta<br />

12-14 Le Quy Don<br />

From the owners of well-known<br />

Bun Ta, comes the newer Pho<br />

Ta, specializing in—you guessed<br />

it— pho. This is no ordinary<br />

noodle soup, though—the menu<br />

is the creation of a celebrity<br />

chef, Dang Tuyet Mai. Mai is<br />

the ex-wife of Nguyen Cao Ky,<br />

who served as Prime Minister<br />

of South Vietnam from 1965 to<br />

1967, and then as Vice President<br />

until his retirement in 1971. She<br />

was well-known as a glamorous<br />

figure in pre-1975 Saigon. After<br />

the war, Mai became a singer in<br />

the United States (her daughter<br />

is also a well-known performer<br />

in the Vietnamese series “Paris<br />

by Night”), before returning to<br />

Vietnam to sing and make pho.<br />

The restaurant is connected with<br />

WE down the street (“ta” means<br />

“we” in Vietnamese).<br />

Nguyen Thuy Salon-Spa<br />

18 Le Quy Don<br />

A cool and laid-back salon and<br />

spa catering to a fashionable<br />

local crowd. Three floors cover<br />

hair, nails, facials and spa and<br />

massage treatments in a pleasant<br />

space bedecked with natural<br />

woods and stone. A hair and<br />

nail package is 495,000 VND<br />

and a body spa package costs<br />

627,000 VND. Their specialty<br />

is the candle massage, a wax<br />

treatment exclusively found at<br />

Nguyen Thuy (400,000 VND).<br />

To create an even more inviting<br />

environment, the staff makes it a<br />

policy of not accepting tips.<br />

Nha Tang Le<br />

25 Le Quy Don<br />

Where do the powerful and<br />

well-connected go when they<br />

die? They make a stop here at<br />

Nha Tang Le, a viewing house/<br />

memorial site for recently deceased<br />

VIPs. The massive structure<br />

blends temple architecture<br />

with Soviet-style grandiosity.<br />

Spice Restaurant<br />

27 Le Quy Don<br />

Get your toms, yams and kaengs<br />

at this popular Thai restaurant,<br />

open since 2003. The multilevel<br />

restaurant has a Middle Eastern<br />

tinge to the décor and features<br />

mosaic tilework (no apparent<br />

reason, but it’s an attractive<br />

enough space). The magazinelike<br />

menu features around 100<br />

dishes, from traditional to more<br />

fusion-like creations; on Thursdays<br />

a lunch buffet is available<br />

for 100,000 VND.<br />

Duc Minh Art Gallery<br />

31 Le Quy Don<br />

This small private museum<br />

holds pieces from the collection<br />

of Duc Minh (1920-1983), one<br />

of Vietnam’s first and foremost<br />

20th-century collectors<br />

of art. The Hanoi-based Minh<br />

frequently lent pieces to the<br />

Vietnam Museum of Fine Arts,<br />

but during many tumultuous<br />

years of war he was forced<br />

to keep most of his collection<br />

under wraps. As the museum’s<br />

biography rather poetically puts<br />

it: “Like an underwater iceberg,<br />

[the collection] indolently drifted<br />

on to its destination against<br />

the current of time and worldly<br />

affairs.” Duc Minh’s collection,<br />

maintained by his son, has<br />

surfaced on Le Quy Don, where<br />

visitors can view and buy the<br />

primarily traditional works.<br />

Dolezza House Fashion and<br />

Coffee<br />

26A Le Quy Don<br />

The coffee part of the equation is<br />

closed indefinitely, but the fashion<br />

side of Dolezza is still going<br />

strong. With all designs by label<br />

owner Nguyen Thanh Van,<br />

Dolezza offers women’s wear in<br />

a range of colours from subdued<br />

grays to bright purples. Shirts,<br />

pants and dresses feature pleats,<br />

ruffles and lots of attention to<br />

detail. Sample prices: pants,<br />

567,00 VND; top, 479,000 VND;<br />

dress, 789,000 VND.<br />

Au Manoir De Khai<br />

251 Dien Bien Phu<br />

Set behind high walls on the<br />

grounds of a glorious old<br />

colonial mansion, Au Manoir<br />

de Khai is but one brick in the<br />

many-faceted Khai Silk empire<br />

of restaurants, fashion and retail<br />

and residential developments.<br />

Traditional French cuisine is on<br />

the menu here, with prices to<br />

match the pumped-up luxury<br />

of the setting. Set dinners range<br />

from USD $60 to $85. Seating is<br />

available in the outside garden<br />

or in the dark, plush, interior<br />

“with a hint of bordello style,”<br />

as their website advertises.<br />

Quan Cay Tre<br />

37 Le Quy Don<br />

This restaurant offers a quanlike<br />

menu, but in a much more<br />

stylish setting than the usual<br />

fluorescent lights-and-metal<br />

table aesthetic. Here it’s all<br />

about vines, exposed bricks,<br />

wooden beamwork and dim<br />

lighting, giving this indooroutdoor<br />

space a truly inviting<br />

atmosphere. One end of<br />

the restaurant features a lush<br />

bamboo garden (cay tre means<br />

bamboo). The house specialty is<br />

Vung Tau-style banh khot, mini<br />

savoury pancakes with shrimp.<br />

Children’s House of HCMC /<br />

Hoang Thai Thanh Theatre<br />

36 Le Quy Don<br />

By day, the Children’s House<br />

of HCMC offers classes, sports<br />

and recreational activities from<br />

martial arts instruction to chess<br />

clubs. In the evening, the main<br />

facility is a live theatre, with<br />

rotating performances twice a<br />

week of dramas and comedies<br />

and programmes for adults<br />

and kids. Tickets are 90,000 to<br />

100,000 VND.<br />

Meet Your Street<br />

Le Quy Don<br />

(1726-1784) was a philosopher, poet, government official and<br />

one of the most prolific savants of 18th-century. His writings<br />

include Vietnam’s largest encyclopedia (the nine-volume Van<br />

Dai Loai Ngu), a 30-volume history of Vietnam through the Le<br />

Dynasty and a large collection of verse. Le Quy Don was born in<br />

what is modern-day Thai Binh Province, in the Red River Delta<br />

region. There are several schools named after him, including<br />

Le Quy Don Technical University in Hanoi, and a junior high<br />

school on this very street (2 Le Quy Don).<br />

20 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 21


22 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 23


YOUTH<br />

THE MEASURE OF A MODERN GENERATION<br />

Young Vietnamese are growing up in<br />

modernity’s clasp——changing times that<br />

challenge their traditional notions about<br />

what they should and can desire. <strong>AsiaLIFE</strong><br />

teamed with market research company<br />

TNS Vietnam to develop an understanding<br />

of what the new generation of youth really<br />

wants. By Beth Young. Photos by Fred<br />

Wissink. Breakout text courtesy of TNS<br />

Vietnam's Topline Findings.<br />

24 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 25


Young people are UNCERTAIN<br />

of what the future could bring in terms of<br />

entertainment. They are more reliant<br />

on BEING INTRODUCED to new things<br />

rather than seeking them.<br />

The family unit in Vietnam is central<br />

to DAILY LIFE and the core from which<br />

a broader sense of COMMUNITY<br />

responsibility is derived.<br />

In the summer of 2002, a prominent multinational<br />

company commissioned <strong>AsiaLIFE</strong>’s<br />

parent company, 365 Days Creative Studio,<br />

to produce a documentary called “Youth.”<br />

The goal of the project was to determine<br />

what made young Vietnamese people tick,<br />

to gain an insight into their ambitions and<br />

aspirations. In essence, to find out what they<br />

wanted.<br />

The agency’s creative director took to<br />

the streets of HCM City to find answers. He<br />

didn’t get many. As it turned out, the majority<br />

of young people he approached didn’t want<br />

much. They cited financial security and employment<br />

as priorities but were at a loss when<br />

asked what else they desired. The Survey<br />

Assessment of Vietnamese Youth conducted<br />

by the Government Statistics Office in 2003<br />

backs up his findings. Then, 49.6 percent<br />

Even after MOVING<br />

out, children still<br />

expect to play a role in<br />

SUPPORTING their<br />

parents and broader<br />

family.<br />

of respondents listed employment as their<br />

first aspiration and 23.6 percent hoped for<br />

economic and financial security. The creative<br />

director attributed the results to the fact that<br />

these kids didn’t know exactly what was<br />

available to them prior to the world wide web<br />

taking hold. Without a steady income, they<br />

couldn’t afford to indulge in expensive leisure<br />

activities and travel anyhow.<br />

The proliferation of Internet access<br />

throughout Vietnam and increased exposure<br />

to foreign content has surely dared young<br />

people to think beyond a stable income and<br />

a nine-to-five job. What’s more, Vietnam’s<br />

movement towards middle income status<br />

means Vietnamese youth should have<br />

more access to money and therefore more<br />

choices.<br />

<strong>AsiaLIFE</strong> teamed with TNS Market Research<br />

to do a re-evaluation, to gauge the<br />

perspective of Vietnamese youth today and<br />

to determine if any of these assertions stuck.<br />

To do this, two focus groups were organized:<br />

one in HCM City and the other in Hanoi, each<br />

comprising six teenagers aged between 15<br />

and 19.<br />

The participants in both groups were<br />

diverse. They ranged from Class A economic<br />

backgrounds—that is their families earn 13.5<br />

million to 20 million VND per month—to Class<br />

B, whose parents bring in an average 6.5<br />

to 13.5 million VND, and the decidedly less<br />

wealthy Class C, whose households make do<br />

with 4.5 to 6.5 million VND. Most came from<br />

traditional nuclear families, but one girl from<br />

HCM City was an oddity—her parents were<br />

divorced.<br />

On the whole, the Saigonese and Hanoians<br />

shared similar viewpoints. However,<br />

the southerners were considerably more<br />

open about some topics—namely sex and<br />

relationships—than their conservative northern<br />

peers. Regardless, each member brought<br />

interesting and relevant ideas to the table.<br />

And, with a population that reached 85.8<br />

million last year, of which the United Nations<br />

estimates more than half are under the age<br />

of 25, understanding Vietnamese youth has<br />

never been more important.<br />

FAMILY<br />

Familial ties run deep in Vietnam and the<br />

results from both focus groups reflected this.<br />

Without exception, each of the participants<br />

feels obligated to “repay” their parents—for<br />

housing, educating and feeding them—by<br />

supporting them financially later in life. Many<br />

of the respondents, especially the girls, even<br />

felt the need to acquire a part-time job in<br />

addition to their studies to ease financial<br />

pressure on their parents.<br />

While the sense of familial responsibility is<br />

overwhelmingly apparent, the boys especially<br />

also yearn for independence and wish to live<br />

outside the family home as adults. Dung, an<br />

18-year-old boy from HCM City talked about<br />

his home where he lives with his extended<br />

family. He mentioned that living in such<br />

close quarters led to frequent and heated<br />

arguments between family members, adding<br />

that privacy was difficult to come by. He said<br />

that if he came home late he ran the risk of<br />

disrupting his family and getting in trouble.<br />

Moving out, he said, would give him more<br />

freedom.<br />

The girls were far more dependent on their<br />

parents, but most said they would probably<br />

move in with their husbands’ family after marriage.<br />

Loc, a 16-year-old high school student,<br />

cited her fear of ghosts as her primary reason<br />

for staying at home until then. “If I move out I<br />

fancy I can die,” she said.<br />

There’s a real tug-of-war taking place.<br />

Young Vietnamese are split between traditional<br />

family loyalty and a desire for independence<br />

and freedom. Many spoke about moving<br />

into their own home after marriage and<br />

raising their own families, rather than living<br />

in a multi-generational household. Still, they<br />

appreciate the advantages of living at home,<br />

too, where responsibilities like household<br />

chores are limited and they can focus on their<br />

studies without worrying about money.<br />

LEISURE<br />

An average Vietnamese teenager’s idea of<br />

fun may seem boring to a Western audience.<br />

Think: lounging in cafes with friends, watching<br />

TV, riding motorbikes through the city and<br />

predominantly, surfing the Internet and playing<br />

online games. A couple of the boys play<br />

football, but primarily the recreational pursuits<br />

the participants in both the HCM City and<br />

Hanoi focus groups take part in are passive.<br />

Income (or lack thereof) largely dictates what<br />

Vietnamese teenagers do in their free time,<br />

explaining the simplicity (and affordability) of<br />

their chosen leisure activities.<br />

Travel is on the agenda for most of the<br />

Hanoians, while the HCM City residents are<br />

fairly content where they are. Two girls from<br />

the Saigon group expressed interest in travel<br />

(one to Thailand, whose “beautiful” beaches<br />

she has seen on TV, and the other to Singapore<br />

where her grandma has encouraged her<br />

to attend university once she’s completed<br />

high school). The rest though seemed fairly<br />

uninterested. The Hanoians all want to travel,<br />

some to outbound destinations like England<br />

(to watch football), South Korea and America.<br />

26 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 27


MARRIAGE is seen as<br />

important for providing<br />

stability in life, as well as a<br />

sign of SUCCESS.<br />

Young Vietnamese are PRAGMATIC<br />

about EDUCATION, often seeking<br />

courses which will provide JOBS IN<br />

LUCRATIVE industries.<br />

For them, travel is a representation of freedom<br />

and an opportunity to gain knowledge<br />

and experience. While each participant said<br />

they wanted to travel they were conscious<br />

that they may not be able to due to financial<br />

restraints. Also, travel is primarily viewed as<br />

a youthful folly, adventures that should be<br />

undertaken before settling down, if at all.<br />

EDUCATION & CAREER PROSPECTS<br />

Young Vietnamese see education as a means<br />

to an end: with certification they will secure a<br />

lucrative position that will earn them money<br />

and ensure stability. This stability extends far<br />

beyond just employment. The participants<br />

also believe that a good job will lift their social<br />

standing and even improve their chance of<br />

meeting a suitable (note: successful and<br />

wealthy) partner.<br />

These perceptions are perpetuated by parents<br />

who associate a higher education with<br />

success; as the only means to be successful.<br />

As such, Vietnamese parents encourage<br />

(even push) their children into studying<br />

courses at university that will lead to “hot”<br />

jobs in finance and banking, IT, medicine<br />

and law. While the participants in HCM City<br />

said their parents merely gave them advice<br />

about study paths, it’s easy to see that their<br />

caregivers have a big say in their choices. In<br />

Hanoi it’s even more overt. There, some of<br />

the participants knew exactly where they’d<br />

be working once they finished university,<br />

not just the field. Phuong, 19, will work at<br />

Techcom Bank. And the girl who sat next to<br />

her, Lien, 18, already has a position reserved<br />

for her as an accountant at the Ho Chi Minh<br />

Mausoleum when she graduates, thanks to<br />

her mother, who works there also.<br />

It was interesting to see how their career<br />

aspirations changed when money was<br />

removed from the equation. They wanted to<br />

be actresses, and footballers, tour guides<br />

and air hostesses but dismissed them as<br />

childish dreams. One boy in the Hanoi group,<br />

Son, 17, wanted to be a football coach until<br />

his parents discouraged him. “They said if<br />

I studied at the sport’s university I wouldn’t<br />

have a bright future. When asked to define<br />

“bright” he said “wealthy.”<br />

As a whole though, the participants were<br />

pragmatic about education and the opportunities<br />

it will afford them. This pragmatism also<br />

translates into expectations about how they<br />

should be taught.<br />

Most find the Vietnamese education<br />

system to be outdated and too theory-based.<br />

They feel they have few opportunities for<br />

practical application. This goes hand in hand<br />

with their complaints about “old” teachers<br />

and lecturers who don’t explain subject<br />

matter properly and whose knowledge is<br />

perceived to be out of date. While the high<br />

school pupils seem to be relatively happy with<br />

the quality of education they are receiving,<br />

the university students are concerned that<br />

they won’t have the skills to perform in the<br />

workplace after completing their studies,<br />

primarily because the teaching methods<br />

their lecturers employ—often strict and<br />

didactic—are impractical. In addition, they<br />

say Vietnamese syllabuses are old-fashioned<br />

and promote “cramming,” that is, committing<br />

copious amounts of information to memory.<br />

Still, they all view education as essential and<br />

pointed to a number of social evils that a lack<br />

of study could lead to: homelessness, crime<br />

and, interestingly, diseases like HIV.<br />

SEX & RELATIONSHIPS<br />

The moderator, 28-year-old Hieu An, skirted<br />

ever-so-artfully around the s-word before<br />

she dropped the bomb. Previously, there had<br />

been chatter about the importance of marriage<br />

and laughter about 16-year-old HCM<br />

City resident Trong’s desire to one day have<br />

a beautiful wife. But the talk quickly dissolved<br />

and all eyes averted downwards when Hieu<br />

An mentioned sex. Young Trong, in particular,<br />

appeared uncomfortable.<br />

The Saigonites recovered quickly and put<br />

forward their opinions about pre-marital sex.<br />

Loc, 16—who works as a promotion girl at a<br />

supermarket after school—said she believed<br />

sex before marriage was acceptable and was<br />

largely circumstantial. She explained this by<br />

adding that she may have sex while under<br />

the influence of alcohol. The two girls sitting<br />

opposite her, however, 19-year-old university<br />

students Hue and Nhi noted the value of a<br />

woman’s virginity. They also said that premarital<br />

sex was a Western activity, and one<br />

that Vietnamese need not follow.<br />

The boys referred to sex before marriage<br />

as a “movement,” that more young people<br />

aged 14 to 15 were indulging in. They<br />

seemed to think it was OK as long as the<br />

couple were mature enough to cope with the<br />

consequences and considered the health<br />

issues involved. They also had no problems<br />

with couples living together before marriage,<br />

in order to get to know each other before taking<br />

the plunge. Still, they said the likelihood of<br />

them living with their partner before marriage<br />

was slim.<br />

The Hanoians were a different story<br />

and bound far more by convention. Each<br />

participant said that sex before marriage was<br />

unacceptable, a response that TNS Market<br />

Research consultant David Watts said could<br />

be attributed to the importance of “keeping<br />

face” and upholding one’s reputation in the<br />

north. Most thought it was OK to kiss their<br />

boyfriend or girlfriend, but anything more<br />

intimate took the relationship to a new level.<br />

They believed that if a young couple has sex,<br />

they should marry one another. The youngest<br />

participant Dung, 15, said he thought young<br />

couples could live together before marriage<br />

as a way of gauging their compatability. When<br />

prompted for more information though, he<br />

said it wasn’t something he would do, but<br />

he believed it was acceptable behaviour for<br />

others.<br />

Marriageable age varied by gender, not<br />

so much by location. While all participants<br />

said they would get married, males opted to<br />

wed later in their mid-30s, and females said<br />

they expected to walk down the aisle in their<br />

mid- to late-20s. This makes sense as the<br />

boys view themselves as the future breadwinners<br />

of their families, and want to marry only<br />

once they have a stable job and adequate<br />

finances.<br />

Everyone said without hesitation that they<br />

would have children. In both cities having<br />

children is perceived as a way to continue the<br />

family lineage. Both the Saigonese and the<br />

Hanoians said they’d like to have one to three<br />

kids in the future. The group from HCM City<br />

couldn’t really explain how they had arrived<br />

at the figure, but the northerners pointed<br />

directly to Ho Chi Minh’s teaching as their<br />

source. “That’s a statement of Uncle Ho,”<br />

they agreed, referring to the government’s<br />

two child per family policy.<br />

FUTURE AMBITIONS<br />

All of the participants yearn for material<br />

possessions—fashionable motorbikes in<br />

the immediate future and cars and villas as<br />

adults. One boy, 19-year-old university student<br />

Tu, who aspires to be a millionaire, even<br />

wants to own a private plane. To afford the<br />

lifestyle they desire they need money and it<br />

is apparent that cash underpins every critical<br />

decision they make.<br />

Their ambitions reflect the change in<br />

Vietnam’s society. As the nation becomes<br />

more affluent they anticipate that their quality<br />

of life will improve. They expect Vietnam to<br />

develop exponentially and can foresee better<br />

education and healthcare systems, plus<br />

greater collective knowledge, awareness and<br />

understanding. Yet, they are also aware of<br />

the pitfalls of rapid expansion—increasing<br />

population, industrialization, rising land prices<br />

and a widening of the gap between rich and<br />

poor. Ironically, they can also see the cons<br />

of living to work, the very lifestyle they are<br />

gearing themselves for—the degradation of<br />

the family and reduced social life. And with<br />

multi-generational living situations on the<br />

downward slide, they predict a diminishing<br />

sense of community and social responsibily.<br />

Recurrent throughout the entire project<br />

was this sense of confusion. Vietnamese<br />

youth are torn between a desire for progress<br />

and modernity, yet they are worried about<br />

what may be lost if the country’s traditions are<br />

not maintained. They’re still not exactly sure<br />

what they want.<br />

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GROWING PAINS<br />

As Vietnam enters middle-income status and begins the most<br />

demographically favourable period in its history, the time to<br />

make a dramatic socioeconomic leap is fast approaching.<br />

However, a serious skills shortage is raising questions about<br />

whether Vietnam can take advantage of its golden opportunity.<br />

By Thomas Maresca. Photo by Fred Wissink.<br />

Vietnam is a country of the young. Its median<br />

age is a tick above 27, and its youthful energy,<br />

optimism and spirit is apparent. Here in HCM<br />

City, an enthusiasm—even a boisterousness—is<br />

impossible to miss throughout the<br />

cafes, clubs, shopping centres, schools and<br />

workplaces of this developing metropolis.<br />

The feeling can be summed up in one word:<br />

potential.<br />

That potential is not simply a matter of<br />

perception. Statistically speaking, Vietnam has<br />

entered a “demographic bonus” period: an era<br />

when the working-age population is double<br />

the number of dependents.<br />

This period, which comes only once in a<br />

nation’s lifetime, is considered a golden age<br />

for development. While a greying nation such<br />

as Japan (where an estimated one in four<br />

will be 65 years or older by 2025) is facing<br />

what some call a “demographic time bomb,”<br />

Vietnam is looking forward to the chance for<br />

tremendous growth.<br />

There are certainly positive signs: relatively<br />

stable macroeconomic factors, a sense of<br />

optimism and enthusiasm for the future, a<br />

booming technology and consumer industry<br />

and a healthy flow of foreign direct investment.<br />

And yet, concerns abound as to whether<br />

Vietnam will be able to realize its potential.<br />

Numerous factors have the potential to put<br />

a damper on Vietnam’s growth, from lack of<br />

infrastructure to policy missteps.<br />

Perhaps the greatest concern is skills. Will<br />

the Vietnamese workforce have the necessary<br />

skills to take advantage of the possibilities that<br />

await? The country is already running a deficit<br />

in vital areas, from technical ability to managerial<br />

acumen to more elusive workplace “soft<br />

skills.” Many observers are worried that this<br />

lack will derail Vietnam’s ascension into the<br />

upper ranks of developed nations.<br />

Employers, educational institutions and aid<br />

organizations, both local and international,<br />

have been trying to address this skills shortage.<br />

The question is whether their efforts will<br />

be enough.<br />

Middle Income Trap<br />

From one of the poorest countries in the world<br />

just 20 years ago Vietnam has reached the<br />

World Banks’ benchmark for middle-income<br />

status. Annual income per capita grew from<br />

less than USD $100 dollars in 1990 to about<br />

$1,200 this year, while the poverty rate fell<br />

from 58 percent in 1993 to about 12 percent<br />

in 2009, said a World Bank report.<br />

Taking the next step is even trickier.<br />

"Many countries have been reaching the<br />

middle income status from lower levels, but<br />

very few countries [succeeded] in moving to<br />

high income," according to a study by Le Kim<br />

Sa, of Vietnam Academy of Social Sciences<br />

(VASS).<br />

Much of Vietnam’s growth to this point has<br />

relied on low labour costs to build exportoriented<br />

and labour-intensive industries such<br />

as textiles, garments and footwear. But as<br />

the country moves up the value chain and<br />

produces more techonology- and capital-intensive<br />

products this can’t remain a competitive<br />

advantage.<br />

Ultimately, Vietnam is going to have to be<br />

able to compete with its productivity and<br />

skills, not just with cost. And while employment<br />

levels are high, Vietnam’s productivity<br />

remains extremely low relative to its neighbours.<br />

The country’s productivity is equivalent<br />

to 1/5 of average productivity in ASEAN<br />

countries and 1/10 of Singapore’s level,<br />

according to the report on Vietnam’s labour<br />

and social trends by the International Labor<br />

Organisation (ILO).<br />

At a recent conference organized by VASS,<br />

its president, Do Hoai Nam, warned that the<br />

strategies that have gotten Vietnam this far<br />

won’t suffice for its future development.<br />

"Vietnam has just got out of the list of poor<br />

countries and its achievements are not really<br />

sustainable," Nam said.<br />

So what happens next?<br />

In one scenario, Vietnam is able to generate<br />

the kind of highly skilled workforce that<br />

will attract partnerships and investment with<br />

other developed nations and create enough<br />

jobs to satisfy the expanding workforce. More<br />

employment means more tax revenue, which<br />

can improve health, education and other social<br />

services. Greater savings and investment<br />

will help further drive productivity growth,<br />

competitiveness and economic development.<br />

In another scenario, Vietnam falls into what<br />

analysts call a “lower-middle income trap.”<br />

Firms don’t invest or expand because there<br />

aren’t enough skilled workers, and workers<br />

don’t acquire skills because there aren’t<br />

enough jobs to go around. Such a country<br />

stays on the low-skill and low-tech end of the<br />

global economy indefinitely. And with all the<br />

new people of working age that will continue<br />

to flood into the labour market in the coming<br />

decades, the demographic bonus becomes a<br />

burden instead of a boon, as unemployment<br />

becomes a major issue.<br />

In regional terms, it’s the difference<br />

between leveling out economically the way<br />

Thailand and The Philippines seem to have<br />

done or becoming the next Taiwan, Singapore<br />

or South Korea.<br />

Technical Difficulties<br />

The skills shortage cuts across numerous<br />

sectors. One particularly acute shortage is<br />

found in skilled industrial labour in areas such<br />

as manufacturing and the export sector.<br />

A recent survey by the Ministry of Labor,<br />

Invalids and Social Affairs (MOLISA) found<br />

that 40 percent of manufacturing and<br />

export-oriented firms, including state-owned<br />

enterprises, identify the lack of skilled labour<br />

as a moderate or severe constraint to further<br />

expansion. According to MOLISA, skilled<br />

workers currently comprise just 13 percent of<br />

the labour force.<br />

The pinch is particularly felt among foreigninvested<br />

projects, which are still having a hard<br />

time finding enough workers. Paradoxically,<br />

as MOLISA points out, unemployment rates<br />

remain high in some areas that have a huge<br />

demand for workers. Dong Nai, where there<br />

are many FDI projects, falls short of 20,000<br />

trained and manual workers every year. In<br />

HCM City, 23,000 people have lost their jobs<br />

so far this year, yet the city is still looking for<br />

61,000 new employees.<br />

“Vietnam’s long-term prosperity and development<br />

depends on its increasing competitiveness<br />

in regional and global markets, and<br />

"Many countries have been REACHING the<br />

middle income status from lower levels, but<br />

VERY FEW COUNTRIES [succeeded] in moving<br />

to high income." Le Kim Sa<br />

if it is to expand as an industrialized country,<br />

it must develop highly skilled industrial workers,”<br />

according to Wendy Duncan, principal<br />

education specialist in the Asian Development<br />

Bank’s (ADB) Southeast Asia Department.<br />

So how does Vietnam address this issue?<br />

The major bottleneck is coming from the lack<br />

of effectiveness of vocational training schools.<br />

The schools are simply turning out too few<br />

trained workers and focusing on occupations<br />

and skills sets that are mismatched with the<br />

requirements of the more dynamic industries.<br />

Making matters worse, the number of students<br />

entering vocational schools has been<br />

decreasing dramatically. An alarming half of<br />

vocational schools’ students drop out, and<br />

one of the primary issues keeping students<br />

away is that they cannot transfer their credits<br />

to continue studying at the university level.<br />

For its part, the ADB recently launched<br />

a $70 million project to improve vocational<br />

training in priority industries. The project<br />

will fund training programmes in public and<br />

private vocational colleges in automotive<br />

technology, electrical and mechanical manufacturing,<br />

hospitality and tourism, information<br />

and communication technology and navigation<br />

and shipping industries, all of which currently<br />

lack sufficient skilled workers. Around<br />

24,000 students are expected to benefit from<br />

the programme, with about 25 percent of<br />

them women and members of ethnic minority<br />

groups.<br />

University Blues<br />

Another reason that vocational schools are<br />

less attractive to Vietnamese is more culturally<br />

ingrained. “Vietnam is like China. We<br />

worship degrees,” says Vu Thi Phuong Anh,<br />

director, Vietnam National University-HCMC's<br />

Center for Educational Testing and Quality.<br />

Indeed, of the many challenges facing<br />

Vietnam’s workforce, a desire for a university<br />

education is not one of them. Last month,<br />

1.9 million high school seniors in Vietnam<br />

took a college admissions test, even though<br />

new enrollment is limited to around 500,000<br />

students. The limited capacity of Vietnam’s<br />

higher education system gives even<br />

middle-of-the-road universities Harvard-like<br />

acceptance rates.<br />

“There’s just a huge hunger for education,”<br />

says Graeme Domm, director of Communications,<br />

RMIT University Vietnam. RMIT,<br />

a Melbourne-based university that started<br />

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“The CONSENSUS is that the state<br />

educational system in Vietnam produces techcapable,<br />

theoretically sound GRADUATES.<br />

It doesn’t produce people with workplace<br />

skills, the soft skills to function in a work<br />

environment.” Tim Mullet<br />

operating in Vietnam in 2001.<br />

Once a student receives a placement in<br />

Vietnam’s state universities, however, there’s<br />

hardly a guarantee that what he or she learns<br />

will be useful at the next level. Vietnam’s<br />

universities generally lag well behind those in<br />

the region, not to mention the world. A recent<br />

university rankings released by Quacquarelli<br />

Symonds lacked a single Vietnamese university<br />

among the top 200 in Asia.<br />

Vietnam’s Ministry of Education has been<br />

extremely forthright about the difficulties it<br />

is facing. A report last year was particularly<br />

blunt: “[T]ertiary education is facing major<br />

challenges: the governance over the universities<br />

and colleges is slow to change, unable to<br />

meet the demands of training quality improvement<br />

for the whole system, and unable to<br />

promote the creativeness of the teachers,<br />

managers and students. The quality of the<br />

human resources is a prolonged weakness of<br />

the whole system of economy.”<br />

That’s not to say Vietnamese universities<br />

have not taken steps forward. In the last<br />

20 years, the number of universities and<br />

colleges has more than tripled, from 101 to<br />

376, and some innovative partnerships and<br />

programmes have been developed.<br />

VNU’s Dr. Phuong Anh last year invited assessment<br />

teams from ASEAN University Network<br />

(AUN) to evaluate one curriculum of the<br />

Hanoi National University and three curriculums<br />

of the HCM City National University. All<br />

the programmes received good results, and<br />

have been recognized as meeting ASEAN<br />

standards, on par with regional universities.<br />

Still, only 15 percent of young people are<br />

studying at universities, half that of Thailand<br />

and a third that of South Korea.<br />

Dr. Phuong Anh, who has been in the<br />

higher education system for 13 years, and<br />

was one of the first generation of Vietnamese<br />

to earn a PhD from an international university,<br />

can’t help but feel a little wistful, despite her<br />

efforts and optimism: “Things aren’t changing<br />

the way we expected them to change,” she<br />

says.<br />

Some supplemental efforts are promising.<br />

The World Bank recently provided $180<br />

million in loans to help Vietnam build the<br />

Vietnam-Germany University (VGU) in HCM<br />

City, with a stated mission of becoming a<br />

world-standard university in Vietnam.<br />

And RMIT has been expanding its offerings<br />

to include several areas of need in Vietnam’s<br />

workforce. This year, the school will be<br />

offering a Masters of Engineering programme,<br />

the first of its kind in the country. Intel, which<br />

is opening its largest testing and assembly<br />

plant here and has struggled to find skilled<br />

labour, is a major supporter. The tech giant<br />

is offering 20 full scholarships, and will also<br />

be supplying $210,000 for a new specialized<br />

electronic and computer engineering lab.<br />

Help Wanted<br />

Once young Vietnamese people make their<br />

way through the traditional education system,<br />

they’re finding a whole new world waiting for<br />

them in the workforce, one for which their<br />

schooling has frequently left them underprepared.<br />

One study from the Ho Chi Minh<br />

University of Pedagogy, found that 50 percent<br />

of graduates have to be retrained, and a<br />

World Bank study found that figure to be 60<br />

percent.<br />

The areas in particular that stands out<br />

for employers and recruiters are management<br />

skills. Chris Harvey, General Director of<br />

Vietnamworks.com, an online employment<br />

service, says that, “There’s a shortage of<br />

management talent. Companies are looking<br />

for leadership—the ability to recruit, motivate,<br />

organize, delegate, create effective teams.”<br />

Harvey’s solution within Vietnamworks.com<br />

is to “hire people with great attitudes and<br />

potential and spend a lot of time growing and<br />

training them.” Most international, brandname<br />

firms similarly do a great deal of training,<br />

which is why, Harvey says, they receive<br />

more applications than local companies.<br />

Tim Mullett, director, International Management<br />

Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) notes that<br />

there is also a lack of what can be called<br />

general workplace skills.<br />

“The consensus is that the state educational<br />

system in Vietnam produces techcapable,<br />

theoretically sound graduates. It<br />

doesn’t produce people with workplace skills,<br />

the soft skills to function in a work environment.”<br />

These include attributes like critical<br />

and creative thinking, taking initiative, problem<br />

solving and teamwork—the vital tissue that<br />

keep a company functioning smoothly.<br />

The IMIV, a non-profit initiative within<br />

the VinaCapital Foundation, recently began<br />

offering a series of management training programmes,<br />

delivered by proven international<br />

education institutions such as Singaporebased<br />

SIM Professional Development. The<br />

IMIV's long-term goal is to establish an independent<br />

not-for-profit management institute<br />

and there is an associated education initiative<br />

within VinaCapital to establish a top-level<br />

international MBA programme in Vietnam.<br />

Licensing for such an institution is a lengthy<br />

process, however. Other programmes are<br />

available in Vietnam as well. For instance, the<br />

PACE Institute of Directors, a group of Vietnamese<br />

business executives, operates the Institute<br />

for Potential Leaders, a free-of-charge<br />

training course for young businesspeople.<br />

Again, it’s certainly worth keeping in mind<br />

how far Vietnam has come in a short time.<br />

Anyone who has lived and worked in Vietnam<br />

for a few years or more can attest to the levels<br />

of professionalism and competence that<br />

young workers are displaying in ever greater<br />

numbers. And as more young Vietnamese<br />

study internationally and work with international<br />

companies, they are exposed to standards<br />

and practices that are valuable assets<br />

to the country. There are also any number<br />

of dedicated and talented people within the<br />

system with ideas that can help take the<br />

country forward.<br />

It’s just a question of how far and how fast.<br />

Despite the many ad hoc responses to<br />

Vietnam’s skills shortages and the steps the<br />

country has taken, ultimately, a systemic<br />

problem is going to call for systemic solutions.<br />

The demographic bonus is coming,<br />

and the potential to jump ahead or languish<br />

remains very much in the balance.<br />

“The shift is definitely happening,” says<br />

Mullett. “Whether it’s happening fast enough<br />

to catch the wave, I don’t know.”<br />

Models<br />

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32 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 33


In Pursuit of Panduranga<br />

New discoveries suggest the kingdom<br />

of Champa’s architectural origins may<br />

in fact be buried in its final refuge:<br />

modern-day Binh Thuan Province.<br />

Adam Bray hits the road to find the<br />

origins of this much misunderstood<br />

civilization and the birthplace of<br />

classical Cham architecture. Photos<br />

by Adam Bray and Fred Wissink.<br />

Photo by Fred Wissink<br />

Looking up inside Thap Po Dam Tower<br />

New discoveries suggest not<br />

only that Panduranga may<br />

have developed independently<br />

during the earliest days of<br />

Champa, but that it may in fact<br />

be the earliest seed of Cham<br />

culture in Vietnam.<br />

I drove north from Phan Thiet<br />

early in the morning toward the<br />

mountains. Last year a villager<br />

told me about some ancient<br />

Cham temple ruins submerged<br />

at the back of a reservoir in<br />

the foothills of the Central Highlands.<br />

“It’s only visible for the<br />

last month of dry season” he<br />

said. “The rest of the year it’s<br />

under water.”<br />

He told me the name of the<br />

nearest village, but it didn’t appear<br />

on any maps. I decided to<br />

just head north and ask people<br />

along the way. “Do you know<br />

if there are any old collapsed<br />

Cham towers in the area?” I<br />

would ask the rice farmers in<br />

Vietnamese.<br />

Over and over again I received<br />

the same answer, “There<br />

are no Cham temples out here.<br />

You must go to Phan Rang.<br />

That’s where Cham people<br />

come from.” It was both a bizarre<br />

and frustrating response,<br />

considering there is an obvious<br />

Cham tower in Phan Thiet—Po<br />

Shanu—and there are Cham<br />

residents living throughout this<br />

area. I’ve long marveled at how<br />

little knowledge or interest the<br />

villagers have in a kingdom<br />

that once laid claim to the<br />

whole area. But then, scholars<br />

and archaeologists hadn’t paid<br />

much attention to Binh Thuan<br />

Province either because until<br />

last year there were only two<br />

documented Cham temples<br />

found here. Binh Thuan, known<br />

as southern Panduranga by<br />

the Cham, was considered the<br />

place where the Cham sought<br />

refuge after the kingdom was<br />

overthrown in the 15th century.<br />

Inexplicably, however, the province’s<br />

two documented templetowers<br />

have long been regarded<br />

as the oldest known Cham ruins<br />

in Vietnam.<br />

Just before sunset, with a few<br />

tips from the farmers, I finally<br />

arrived at the correct village and<br />

turned my motorbike north between<br />

the mountains and down<br />

a dusty trail. I was delighted<br />

to find an elderly Cham man<br />

standing by a shack at the end<br />

of the road. I explained my mission<br />

and to my great surprise he<br />

knew exactly what ruins I was<br />

looking for. He led me across a<br />

rocky floodplain to the edge of<br />

a river leading to the reservoir.<br />

Ancient red bricks, encrusted<br />

in clam shells, lay strewn about<br />

two temple foundations.<br />

“About 15 years ago the<br />

one-armed man came,” said the<br />

old man. “He had a group of six<br />

men that dug here. They took<br />

away cartloads of statues, iron<br />

implements, steles with writing<br />

and even some gold.” I cringed.<br />

This wasn’t the first time I’d<br />

heard of “the one-armed man.”<br />

Villagers at other ruin sites<br />

told me how this gold shop<br />

owner vandalized and robbed<br />

archaeological sites all over the<br />

province.<br />

Champa: A Jumbled History<br />

Under Contention<br />

The Cham are a semi-matriarchal<br />

ethnic group whose oncegreat<br />

kingdom encompassed all<br />

of Central Vietnam and at times<br />

portions of Laos and Cambodia.<br />

Their kingdom, known as<br />

Champa, was a contemporary<br />

rival to Angkor, China and the<br />

Vietnamese.<br />

Georges Maspero’s The<br />

Champa Kingdom: The History<br />

of an Extinct Vietnamese Culture<br />

(1928) was long considered the<br />

definitive version of the history<br />

of the Champa Kingdom. He<br />

proposed that the single, united<br />

Champa kingdom began in the<br />

4th century, at that time known<br />

as Linyi by the Chinese, and<br />

was slowly driven southward<br />

through five principalities by<br />

the Vietnamese. Beginning in Indrapura<br />

(near modern Danang),<br />

they retreated to Amaravati<br />

(Quang Nam Province), the<br />

Vijaya (26 km from Qui Nhon),<br />

then Kauthara (Nha Trang),<br />

finally seeking refuge in Panduranga<br />

(Binh Thuan and Ninh<br />

Thuan provinces).<br />

Within Maspero’s history is a<br />

poorly-explained account of the<br />

abandonment of Indrapura and<br />

the holy city of My Son during<br />

the 8th and 9th centuries and<br />

the subsequent relocation to<br />

Panduranga and Kauthara by<br />

Champa’s rulers. All of the earliest<br />

known Cham temples are<br />

located in Panduranga and date<br />

from this period. The surviving<br />

temples at My Son were all built<br />

after Maspero believed the capital<br />

shifted back to Indrapura,<br />

a century later. There are older<br />

rudiments attributed mostly to<br />

the Linyi period in My Son but<br />

they are not vestiges of classical<br />

Cham temple-towers.<br />

However, Michael Vickery’s<br />

2005 working paper “Champa<br />

Revised” throws that all out<br />

the window. Vickery asserts<br />

that Champa was a loosely affiliated<br />

group of perhaps three<br />

autonomous principalities,<br />

each developing independently<br />

and in parallel, with their own<br />

respective ruling elite. Vickery<br />

argues that Maspero’s assertion<br />

that Champa evolved from<br />

Linyi is pure “historical fiction”<br />

and points out that much of his<br />

history is based on unfounded<br />

assumption, misunderstandings,<br />

myth and all-too heavy<br />

reliance on skewed ancient Chi-<br />

Thap Po Dam Tower<br />

nese and Vietnamese histories.<br />

He seems to imply a much later<br />

emergence of Cham—perhaps<br />

in the 7th or 8th century. Vickery<br />

maintains that the shifting<br />

pre-eminence (and subsequent<br />

decline a century later) of Panduranga<br />

in the 8th century (and<br />

again in the 11th century) is due<br />

to changes in trade routes and<br />

not migrations of royal families<br />

and capital cities.<br />

I agree with Vickery. Newlydiscovered<br />

temple ruins here in<br />

Binh Thuan Province suggest a<br />

continual prominence of Panduranga<br />

as an active religious<br />

realm from the earliest days of<br />

Champa. I’ve located clusters<br />

of temple ruins in the north of<br />

the province, which point to the<br />

possibility of a holy city. Likewise,<br />

the little-known ancient<br />

Cham citadel wall surrounding<br />

the town of Song Luy in central<br />

Binh Thuan is incontrovertible<br />

evidence of an impressive<br />

military or royal presence in<br />

Panduranga.<br />

Even more exciting however,<br />

are the recently disclosed<br />

discoveries of more than a<br />

dozen Sa Huynh sites by the<br />

government. The Sa Huynh<br />

culture (known chiefly for its<br />

use of burial-cremation jars and<br />

intricate jewellery) is one of<br />

the earliest known civilizations<br />

in Vietnam, dating back up to<br />

3,000 years. It’s largely believed<br />

that the Sa Huynh are ancestors<br />

of the Cham.<br />

All of these exciting new<br />

discoveries suggest not only<br />

that Panduranga may have<br />

developed independently dur-<br />

34 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 35


Po Shanu Tower<br />

The Brick Builders<br />

Po Adam-Hung<br />

Last Cham Kings Crown<br />

Hindus believed that their deities resided on Mount<br />

Meru, in the centre of the universe. Champa, like other<br />

Hinduized cultures, built their temples as mini replicas of<br />

this abode. Eastward-facing Cham temples were usually<br />

built on mounds or hilltops overlooking moving water.<br />

Much like earlier Funan temples, but unlike Angkor<br />

monuments, Cham towers were constructed entirely of<br />

red bricks. Mortar isn’t visible on the outside of a Cham<br />

temple. This gave rise to stories by the Vietnamese that<br />

the bricks were only air-dried before set in place, and then<br />

covered with a resin before the entire tower was baked<br />

in situ by a giant bonfire. In reality, a loose mortar can be<br />

found between inner brick layers. Further, ancient kilns<br />

where the bricks were baked prior to temple construction<br />

have been found outside Phan Thiet.<br />

The remaining artefacts have been<br />

ravaged so aggressively in the last<br />

20 years that there will soon be<br />

nothing left worth saving if they<br />

are not immediately placed under<br />

protection.<br />

With several temple ruin sites<br />

recently discovered—ranking<br />

among the oldest—it seems that<br />

Binh Thuan Province may have<br />

been the birthplace of classical<br />

Cham architecture, likely influenced<br />

by the neighbouring and<br />

elder Funan Empire.<br />

Unfortunately the remaining<br />

artefacts have been ravaged so<br />

aggressively in the last 20 years,<br />

by both professional temple<br />

robbers and local farmers, that<br />

there will soon be nothing left<br />

worth saving if they are not<br />

immediately placed under<br />

protection.<br />

Cham temples often served as<br />

tombs for the kings of Champa,<br />

and the Cham were notorious<br />

for hiding gold and jewellery<br />

under tower foundations,<br />

as offerings to the god-kings<br />

buried there. This has always<br />

made them a target of choice<br />

for robbers, who also carry off<br />

valuable statuary, lingas (phallic<br />

representations of Shiva)<br />

and steles bearing the written<br />

history of the king to which the<br />

temple was devoted. Tomb raiders<br />

(and farmers demolishing<br />

temple ruins to clear land for<br />

crops) may have done nearly as<br />

much damage to the sum total<br />

of Champa’s relics in the last 20<br />

years as all of America’s bombs<br />

at My Son.<br />

At the moment, no one is paying<br />

attention. “We don’t really<br />

care about the collapsed Cham<br />

ruins far in the countryside”<br />

an assistant at the Ministry of<br />

Tourism told me. “The country<br />

just restores and protects the<br />

big beautiful temples near the<br />

highway—the ones that tourist<br />

like and are easy to access.”<br />

ing the earliest days of Champa,<br />

but that it may in fact be the<br />

earliest seed of Cham culture in<br />

Vietnam.<br />

Panduranga Revisited<br />

Until recently, the only known<br />

Cham towers in Binh Thuan<br />

Province were Po Shanu in Phan<br />

Thiet, and little-known Po Dam<br />

near Phan Ri. Po Shanu is the<br />

oldest known Cham tower, yet<br />

it’s often overlooked in age-style<br />

comparisons between towers<br />

because it inconveniently looks<br />

as much like a pre-Angkorian<br />

Khmer temple of the Funan<br />

Kingdom as a Cham temple. Po<br />

Dam, only thought to be a little<br />

older, is similar in style to Tha<br />

Hoa Lai in Phan Rang. Interestingly,<br />

Hoa Lai has long been<br />

disowned by the Cham, who<br />

claim it is a Khmer (Angkorian<br />

or Funan-era) temple.<br />

Last summer Phan Thiet’s<br />

provincial museum made a<br />

small announcement about<br />

a 9th century temple ruin<br />

discovered in the far north of<br />

the province, on the road to<br />

Dalat. As usual the nearest<br />

stated village didn’t appear on<br />

any map, so I set out with my<br />

friend Hung to find it, again<br />

by asking locals. In the process<br />

of my search I would accidentally<br />

find two undocumented<br />

temples. Then after finding<br />

the government’s temple, I<br />

located the fourth, “Reservoir<br />

Tower” described previously.<br />

Strangely, only two of these<br />

four temple sites are in view of<br />

running water, and none are on<br />

pronounced hilltops. If the locations<br />

were forested at the time<br />

of construction, no view of the<br />

countryside would have been<br />

afforded. This is very unusual<br />

for Cham temples anywhere in<br />

Vietnam, except for the holy city<br />

of My Son.<br />

The first temple that I found<br />

I named Po Adam-Hung in jest.<br />

The main tower shaft, with tall,<br />

smooth walls, penetrated down<br />

into the centre of a mound. It<br />

seems as though the temple roof<br />

collapsed outward and formed<br />

the mound around it. Beside it<br />

is a smaller building, still apparently<br />

intact but buried in the<br />

mound. Along it is a trench and<br />

another wall, as though forming<br />

a hallway.<br />

The second undocumented<br />

temple site, which I tentatively<br />

named “The Farmer’s Tower”<br />

(it sits in the middle of cropland),<br />

is about a 15-minute drive<br />

away. It consists of multiple<br />

structures, all entirely collapsed<br />

but one. Three outer walls remain,<br />

hidden by trees and vines.<br />

Bricks and an undecorated lintel<br />

lay strewn upon the ground.<br />

The third set of ruins, announced<br />

and excavated by the<br />

government, is all but collapsed,<br />

save the foundation, and questionably<br />

dated by authorities<br />

as 9th-century. This temple is<br />

about 20 minutes drive north<br />

from the others, at the foot of<br />

the mountains.<br />

These ruins, together with Po<br />

Shanu and yet another badly<br />

degraded ruin on the edge of<br />

Phan Thiet, all lay within Binh<br />

Thuan’s central Quao River<br />

Delta. I don’t believe that it<br />

is a coincidence that these,<br />

Champa’s oldest known towers,<br />

are in such close proximity to<br />

the elder Funan ruins in Cat<br />

Tien National Park. I believe<br />

that Binh Thuan’s ruins may<br />

represent a transition between<br />

the Funan and Cham architectural<br />

styles, and that there are<br />

probably many other vestiges<br />

here with transitional styles that<br />

are yet to be discovered.<br />

In addition to these seven<br />

towers, sources have confirmed<br />

the existence of at least 10 more<br />

ancient Cham temple sites in the<br />

province, as well as numerous<br />

shrines and the ancient Cham<br />

citadel of Song Luy. Among<br />

these are the newly discovered<br />

temple sites in the districts of<br />

Muong Man and Binh Tan,<br />

which display remarkable<br />

similarities in size, complexity<br />

and sophistication to principal<br />

temples in the holy city My<br />

Son. All of these temples are<br />

loosely dated from the 8th to 9th<br />

centuries.<br />

Champa’s History at a Precipice<br />

From these discoveries, I<br />

conclude that Panduranga was<br />

much more actively settled<br />

in the early days of Champa<br />

than previously thought. "The<br />

riparian Cham cities of Phan<br />

Thiet and Phan Ri both have<br />

Cham and Sa Huynh relics in<br />

the vicinity that suggests they<br />

may be among the oldest and<br />

longest-continuously inhabited<br />

cities in Vietnam (2,500 years)."<br />

Another quality development by<br />

Asia Life August 2010.indd 1 23/08/2010 05:02:15<br />

36 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 37


In the Land of<br />

Gibbons<br />

The Gibbon Experience gives adventure travellers<br />

the opportunity to live in the trees and soar<br />

through the jungle canopy of northwestern Laos.<br />

Tom DiChristopher takes to the sky on one of the<br />

conservation-oriented project’s three-day treks.<br />

Photos by Fred Wissink.<br />

The zip line is still buzzing<br />

when I grasp it to lock my trolley<br />

into place. The velocity of<br />

its last passenger reverberates<br />

through my arm and rattles my<br />

nerves. Moments ago, our guide<br />

Boonpeng led the first flight,<br />

followed enthusiastically by my<br />

girlfriend Sarah and her sister<br />

Ryann’s boyfriend, Josh. Now<br />

Ryann, a pair of British travellers<br />

and our second guide, Nuon, are<br />

waiting for me.<br />

It dawns on me that a zip line<br />

platform a few hundred metres<br />

above the jungle floor is a bad<br />

place to realize you’ve wildly<br />

underestimated your fear of<br />

heights.<br />

And this is just the start.<br />

We’ve signed on for a threeday<br />

trek and aerial adventure<br />

through northwestern Laos’<br />

Bokeo Nam Kan Nature Reserve<br />

called the Gibbon Experience.<br />

During the trip, I will not only<br />

tackle a network of zip lines,<br />

I’ll also be sleeping in a tree<br />

house. At present, however, I’m<br />

just trying to take the first step.<br />

With panic and humiliation<br />

tug-of-roping me back and forth<br />

between fight and flight, I try every<br />

trick in the book: check that<br />

my trolley’s wheels are aligned,<br />

give its rubber tyre brake a test<br />

squeeze, retighten my harness,<br />

triple-check the carabiner on my<br />

safety rope. All systems are go.<br />

I lumber forward into a foetal<br />

crouch and an instant later the<br />

harness kung-fu grips me in<br />

all the wrong places. The zip<br />

line sings in my ear as I pick up<br />

speed through the corridor of<br />

foliage breezing past. Then, the<br />

sun pours over me and warms<br />

my skin. I wrestle my eyes from<br />

the trolley and gaze out over the<br />

mountains. Light and shadow<br />

colour them into a patchwork<br />

of camouflage. Below the Nam<br />

Nga River is just a ribbon, its<br />

flow almost imperceptible. Out<br />

here in the open, with nothing to<br />

measure my speed against, time<br />

and space calcify. I feel like I’m<br />

passing through a postcard.<br />

Then, the foliage whips by<br />

once again and the screeching<br />

zip line drops a few octaves. I<br />

slow to a stop a few metres from<br />

the landing platform, turning<br />

to pull myself hand over<br />

hand. With my feet back on<br />

solid ground, I holler across the<br />

chasm. “OK!”<br />

In the Trees<br />

After tackling another series of<br />

zip lines, we try our hand at a<br />

new challenge: docking in a tree<br />

Since visitors stick to the trails, cables and<br />

trees on the outskirts of the forest, their<br />

impact on the environment is minimal.<br />

house. Boonpeng looks back and<br />

says “brake” before leaping into<br />

another of his carefree madman<br />

launches. When it’s my turn I<br />

peared briefly to arrange lunch,<br />

but soon joined in, scaling the<br />

rocks and leaping into the chilly<br />

pool. This outdoor amenity is<br />

included in the Waterfall Experience<br />

option, and while cooling<br />

our aching muscles, we were<br />

glad we’d booked it. Later we<br />

were perhaps less pleased with<br />

ourselves; the Waterfall Experience<br />

also entails considerably<br />

longer daily hikes than the Classic<br />

Experience.<br />

Our second morning, however,<br />

the troops are showing<br />

fatigue. Sleeping accommodations<br />

are sub-optimal. The<br />

mattresses are thin. In place of<br />

mosquito nets, thick sheets hang<br />

from the ceiling, leaving two<br />

options: sweat it out or contend<br />

with mosquitoes. Most of us are<br />

working on about a half night’s<br />

sleep, and now we’ve got to hike<br />

to the next tree house.<br />

With muscles sore from<br />

yesterday’s hike and too little<br />

sleep, the day’s trek is arduous.<br />

We labour up steep, swerving<br />

paths, and then jog spaghettilegged<br />

down again. The process<br />

repeats itself over and over in<br />

a cruel, Ecsher-esque cycle. My<br />

backpack digs into my shoulfollow<br />

suit with another graceless<br />

plummet, peering ahead<br />

until I see it in the distance—<br />

like a hamburger balanced on a<br />

toothpick, a gazebo-like structure<br />

suspended in the trees.<br />

“Brake! Brake! Brake!” yells<br />

Boonpeng. I heed his warning<br />

and glide into the cramped landing<br />

platform beneath the tree<br />

house. Off to the side, our bathroom<br />

occupies little more than a<br />

balcony. Up above, the space is<br />

wide open, giving us 360-degree<br />

views of the mountains and<br />

forest. There’s even a makeshift<br />

kitchen with a gas range and<br />

sink. A resident cat paroles the<br />

tree house for forest rats that<br />

might scurry across the cables.<br />

We have everything we need<br />

to indulge our Swiss Family<br />

Robinson fantasies, save coconut<br />

bombs and a cross-dressing<br />

cabin boy.<br />

While the accommodations<br />

make for a fantastical getaway,<br />

they’re also integral to the<br />

Gibbon Experience’s overall<br />

mission. The project is named<br />

after the black-crested gibbon, a<br />

highly endangered primate that<br />

occupies parts of the 123,000<br />

hectare Bokeo Nature Reserve.<br />

The gibbons’ habitat is itself<br />

under threat, as well. Travelling<br />

through Laos, the sight of mountainsides<br />

clear cut for lumber<br />

is all too common. Laos lost 6.8<br />

percent of its forest between<br />

1990 and 2005 to slash-and-burn<br />

agriculture, logging, fuel wood<br />

collection and fires, according<br />

to United Nations FAO statistics<br />

compiled by conservation website<br />

Mongabay.com.<br />

In 2003 French ecotourism<br />

company Animo planted the<br />

roots of the Gibbon Experience<br />

in a bid to conserve Bokeo’s<br />

mountainous deciduous forest<br />

and generate income for local<br />

villagers, who work as patrol<br />

guards, guides, builders and<br />

cooks. Today, it maintains six<br />

tree houses and a network of<br />

zip lines. Since visitors stick to<br />

the trails, cables and trees on<br />

the outskirts of the forest, their<br />

impact on the environment is<br />

minimal.<br />

Over the next three days,<br />

however, I would learn that lowimpact<br />

travel can come with a<br />

high-impact workout.<br />

On the Trails<br />

By many standards, the Gib-<br />

bon Experience is rugged. Our<br />

journey from the border town<br />

of Houayxay had set the tone.<br />

We crammed into the bed of<br />

a songthaew with rucksacks,<br />

rations and a rotating cast of<br />

local commuters and spent the<br />

next three hours clinging to the<br />

truck’s canopy as it pitched back<br />

and forth along dusty, cratered<br />

switchbacks. Once we reached<br />

the staging village of Baan Toup,<br />

we had only 15 minutes to size<br />

up the outgoing group—filthy<br />

and exhausted, but in good<br />

spirits—before hitting the trails.<br />

Those first hours passed<br />

quickly as we took in the sights<br />

and sounds of the jungle. Giant<br />

fan-like ferns glowed electric<br />

green in the sun. Knotted, vinewrapped<br />

tree trunks spiraled<br />

skywards. Bent and broken<br />

bamboo formed archways and<br />

scaffolding overhead. Birdcalls<br />

so absurd they seemed artificial<br />

echoed in the canopy, while the<br />

chomp chomp of termite feasts<br />

crackled underfoot.<br />

Just when exhaustion had<br />

set in, we arrived at a craggy<br />

cove along the Nam Nga River<br />

fed by a small, tiered waterfall.<br />

Boonpeng and Nuon disap-<br />

ders. The harness weighs me<br />

down. Sweat streams down my<br />

forehead. Boonpeng and Nuan<br />

regularly update us. Three more<br />

hours. Two more. One more. I’m<br />

not sure if it’s helping. It always<br />

seems like we should be closer<br />

than we are.<br />

When we finally reach the<br />

first zip line, I clip in without a<br />

thought and jump. It seems I’ve<br />

found a cure for my acrophobia:<br />

exhaustion.<br />

Among the Gibbons<br />

I had been under the impression<br />

that zip lining at night was<br />

forbidden. So I was more than a<br />

little surprised when Boonpeng<br />

informed us yesterday evening<br />

that we’d be zipping out at 4 am.<br />

The gibbons get up early, you<br />

know.<br />

We’re running behind, staggering<br />

around by flashlight<br />

when we hear it: a loud crack<br />

in the distance. Boonpeng suddenly<br />

looks uncomfortable.<br />

“Poachers?” I ask. “Hunters?”<br />

“Yes,” he says. “Or rangers.”<br />

No matter. The shots are<br />

far off and a more frightening<br />

prospect is at hand. We’ve got<br />

to launch into pitch black nothingness<br />

from what everyone<br />

has agreed is the most unnerving<br />

platform, literally a plank<br />

suspended about half a metre<br />

from the edge of the tree house.<br />

Josh and I are last out, and he<br />

graciously let’s me go first. I step<br />

out on the plank and shimmy<br />

into sitting position. “If I fall,” I<br />

tell him, “at least it’s too dark to<br />

see where I’m falling.” And then<br />

I’m gone, praying that the zip<br />

line’s song will rise and fall as<br />

it should. Up ahead, something<br />

glimmers. Boonpeng and Nuan<br />

have lined either side of the<br />

landing platform with candles,<br />

turning it into a backwoods<br />

tarmac.<br />

Hours later, we arrive at the<br />

tree house. The residents—an<br />

older couple and their grandson—wake<br />

up and we introduce<br />

ourselves awkwardly, like squatters.<br />

Over breakfast, we compare<br />

our travails. And then, somewhere<br />

out in the trees, the first<br />

calls drift across the expanse:<br />

More gibbons join in, and soon the clarion<br />

becomes a chorus, the calls overlapping<br />

from all sides.<br />

Whoooooop! Whoop! Whoop!<br />

Whoop! More gibbons join in,<br />

and soon the clarion becomes<br />

a chorus, the calls overlapping<br />

from all sides.<br />

A reverent, church-like silence<br />

falls on the tree house. The<br />

morning is cool, and the fog rolls<br />

off the valleys, hovering among<br />

the hilltops. Everyone gazes out,<br />

looking for signs of the elusive<br />

gibbons. They never come into<br />

sight, but when we get back on<br />

the trail to Baan Toup, their calls<br />

still lilt through the air like a<br />

farewell as we prepare to return<br />

to civilization.<br />

The Classic and Waterfall Experiences<br />

are €180 (USD $231) for<br />

group accommodation, inclusive of<br />

meals and snacks. The more private<br />

Spa Experience is €250 (USD<br />

$321) and includes massage. For<br />

more information, visit gibbonexperience.org.<br />

38 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 39


Himiko Visual Café<br />

HCM City<br />

Hideouts<br />

Himiko Visual Café<br />

Cooku Nest Café<br />

L’appartement<br />

Beth Young searches high and<br />

low—in Saigon’s many hems and<br />

alleyways, up above the streetscape<br />

and in the least obvious places—to<br />

find the city’s best kept secrets: its<br />

tucked away cafés, restaurants and<br />

bars. Photos by Fred Wissink.<br />

HCM City is a labyrinth of backstreets<br />

and crumbling terrace<br />

houses with winding staircases.<br />

Sometimes tucked away in<br />

these unlikely spaces are craftily<br />

refurbished bars, restaurants<br />

and cafes; hidden gems that are<br />

designed to be stumbled across.<br />

They’re not see and be seen<br />

joints; rather they provide visitors<br />

with a respite from HCM<br />

City’s frenetic pace, somewhere<br />

to sit quietly and soak in the<br />

often eclectic and ambient surroundings.<br />

Hideaway Café<br />

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3<br />

Tel: 3822 4222<br />

www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com<br />

Hideaway Café is a sprawling<br />

French colonial villa, hidden<br />

down an alley off Pham Ngoc<br />

Thach and shaded underneath<br />

the umbrella of a huge, knotted<br />

tree. Hideaway isn’t a newbie,<br />

but it’s one of the best, a plaudit<br />

that the mixed foreign and<br />

Vietnamese crowd will attest<br />

to. The café is so big, and has<br />

enough sections that privacy<br />

isn’t an issue. The main structure<br />

has dining areas downstairs<br />

and upstairs, both decked out<br />

with comfortable lounges.<br />

There’s also a balcony positioned<br />

beneath the tree’s leafy<br />

canopy. Another room above<br />

the kitchen has a lofty feel. With<br />

wooden floors and beige canvas<br />

cushions on low-lying lounges<br />

and classic board games like<br />

Scrabble, Articulate, Monopoly<br />

and Cluedo, it’s extremely<br />

conducive to relaxation. Teamed<br />

with the rustic finishes and<br />

worn furniture, Hideaway has a<br />

casual air. It’s the type of place<br />

you can put your feet up on the<br />

couch without fear of reproach.<br />

The menu is great, too, and the<br />

English breakfast (80,000 VND)<br />

is a winner.<br />

Cooku Nest Café<br />

13 Tu Xuong, D3<br />

Tel: 2241 2043<br />

Not so much tucked away as<br />

camouflaged, the Cooku Nest<br />

Café, is a blink and you’ll miss<br />

it sort of place. Constructed<br />

entirely from wood panels<br />

inside and out, the cuckoo clock<br />

that presides over the front<br />

door and the cut out timber<br />

bird motif positioned outside<br />

are the café’s calling cards.<br />

A relaxed space with an attic<br />

upstairs, it’s a cool hangout for<br />

arty, young Vietnamese, who<br />

sip at tra da and ca phe sua da<br />

for hours on end. A ladder-like<br />

staircase (shoes are politely left<br />

at the bottom) delivers patrons<br />

to the loft, where seating is at<br />

ground level on comfortable<br />

paisley-patterned cushions. By<br />

day, pleasant, elevator-worthy<br />

songs play, but at night, the nest<br />

is transformed with live music<br />

(mostly the jazzy strains of<br />

saxophone, guitar, violin, cello<br />

and mandolin). The entertainment<br />

is cheap, too. Instead of<br />

paying at the door, the ticket<br />

price is tacked at the end of your<br />

bill. An iced coffee is 30,000<br />

VND usually, but 50,000 VND if<br />

accompanied by a band.<br />

Casbah Lounge<br />

59 Nguyen Du, D1<br />

Tel: 8382 4130<br />

Casbah is a Mediterraneanthemed<br />

lounge positioned<br />

midway along a tiny hem suitable<br />

only for single-file traffic.<br />

Though it’s located right in the<br />

heart of the city, Casbah feels<br />

worlds away, especially on the<br />

rooftop terrace: a luxurious<br />

space complete with private<br />

curtain-enclosed day lounges,<br />

rattan chairs and a view of the<br />

street below. Downstairs, the<br />

vibe is Arabian nights. Royal<br />

blue and turquoise green accents<br />

pop against the dappled<br />

beige walls and the sweet scent<br />

of shisha fills the air. Though<br />

the stained glass windows allow<br />

some light in, it’s quite dark<br />

inside—a perfect lunchtime<br />

respite from the bright Saigon<br />

sun. Casbah hosts belly dancing<br />

classes every Thursday to<br />

Sunday from 8.30 pm, as well.<br />

No payment is required; simply<br />

purchase a glass of wine or a<br />

cocktail from their wide selection.<br />

Himiko Visual Café<br />

324bis Dien Bien Phu, D10<br />

www.himikocafe.com<br />

Himiko Visual Café is all about<br />

aesthetics. Located in a wide<br />

alley off busy Dien Bien Phu, the<br />

entrance is unassuming. As soon<br />

as you enter though and are<br />

greeted by three life-size naked<br />

statues, it becomes apparent<br />

you’ve found the right place.<br />

The staircase is dingy, but the<br />

space it leads to is downright<br />

eclectic. Filled with art created<br />

by owner Nguyen Kim Hoang,<br />

including busts and paintings<br />

displayed in shadow boxes,<br />

it’s a feast for the eyes. And<br />

that’s exactly Hoang’s goal. In<br />

Japanese Himiko means “the<br />

child found fire,” and the café’s<br />

primary purpose is to give<br />

young artists a playground<br />

to nurture their own creative<br />

spark. For patrons interested<br />

in grabbing a bite to eat there’s<br />

a limited menu of Vietnamese<br />

cuisine, namely banh mi op la<br />

(bread with eggs) for 29,000<br />

VND and noodle soup with<br />

rare beef (31,000 VND). Drinks<br />

are plentiful and include coffee,<br />

smoothies, juices and cocktails.<br />

Hoang appears to have a fondness<br />

for rum, too, for the spirit<br />

can be added to anything from<br />

ca phe da (32,000 VND) to lemon<br />

juice (32,000 VND).<br />

L’appartement<br />

Level 1, 95 Pasteur, D1<br />

Tel: 7300 8077<br />

L’appartement is tough to find.<br />

Take a wrong turn in the courtyard<br />

where it’s located and you<br />

can easily find yourself climbing<br />

a winding staircase all the way<br />

into someone’s very Vietnamese<br />

abode (at least I did). For those<br />

adept at following signage<br />

though, hunting down this<br />

Parisian-style cake parlour and<br />

café shouldn’t be too difficult.<br />

Just across the hall from Yoga<br />

Living, L’appartement (known<br />

simply as the Cake Studio)<br />

is a welcoming space with a<br />

large open dining room, bright<br />

‘breakfast’ type nook with bay<br />

windows and a colourful lounge<br />

area that houses a massive red<br />

sofa. The menu isn’t anything<br />

to write home about, but all the<br />

usual suspects are there: coffee,<br />

juices and some Vietnamese<br />

specialities. Desserts are made<br />

fresh daily and the cake of the<br />

day goes for 45,000 VND.<br />

Things<br />

Level 1, 14 Ton That Dam, D1<br />

Tel: 0904 141 714<br />

Things Café is as gorgeous as it<br />

is unexpected. Located on the<br />

first level of a ramshackle and<br />

massive Vietnamese apartment<br />

building, a stroll past the<br />

labyrinth of homes is required<br />

to reach the respite of Things.<br />

40 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 41


Laura’s Secret Room<br />

L’appartement<br />

VND). Shisha in all flavours is<br />

on offer, too (188,000 VND).<br />

Laura’s Secret Room<br />

11 Dong Du, D1<br />

Tel: 3509 9018<br />

The vivacious Laura is a young<br />

Vietnamese woman with bouffant<br />

curls and tattoos and her<br />

bar has the same extravagant<br />

flair: think Marie Antoinette;<br />

feather boas, fake turf-covered<br />

walls and electric-blue flashing<br />

fairy lights. It’s quite a<br />

hike to her Secret Room (past<br />

a fairly underwhelming and<br />

smoke-filled lounge) but it’s<br />

well worth the exercise. For on<br />

the fifth floor is an ultra-pink<br />

terrace that affords a birds eye<br />

view of the city below. It’s a<br />

tiny space, but thankfully few<br />

people take advantage of it,<br />

and as a result it’s generally<br />

very quiet. Somehow, Laura<br />

manages to fit a live Filipino<br />

band up there on Thursday<br />

nights from 9 pm and bellydancing<br />

performances are<br />

coming soon. It may be located<br />

sky high but that doesn’t mean<br />

the prices are. A Corona goes<br />

for 30,000 VND: very reasonable<br />

indeed.<br />

Princess and the Pea<br />

63/85 Pasteur, D1<br />

Tel: 0936 353 179 or 0983 455<br />

549<br />

I love Princess and the Pea.<br />

Themed around the story and<br />

tucked away down a shoulderwidth<br />

hem off Pasteur, and up<br />

a winding set of stairs, it truly<br />

has a fairytale quality. Illustrations<br />

from children’s books<br />

like Alice in Wonderland line<br />

the aubergine-hued walls,<br />

alongside unique wooden cut<br />

outs shaped like lamps and<br />

topped with fabric shades. A<br />

bedroom nook to the café’s<br />

rear houses the princesses’<br />

bed, too—11 mattresses that<br />

are piled atop each other on a<br />

heavy timber base. The sleeping<br />

quarter also has a mirrored<br />

vanity table (which young<br />

Vietnamese girls use as a photography<br />

prop) and an adjoining<br />

library filled with books.<br />

Seating is on the floor on<br />

purple cushions alongside cute<br />

coffee tables set with black<br />

and white shots in the centre.<br />

The food menu is limited but<br />

drinks are plentiful. The apple<br />

and lemon juice (39,000 VND)<br />

is sweet and refreshing.<br />

Laura’s Secret Room<br />

Princess and the Pea<br />

Princess and the Pea<br />

In contrast to the dingy surrounds<br />

the café is bright and<br />

breezy thanks to hardworking<br />

ceiling fans and generous use<br />

of lemon yellow paint. What<br />

makes it even more special is<br />

owner Thuy Minh’s request<br />

to her friends to donate their<br />

old things. As such, the space<br />

is adorned with an eclectic<br />

mash of decorations: a rusted<br />

old typewriter, a four-poster<br />

bed and a black and white<br />

photograph of Charlie Chaplin,<br />

among others. There is a<br />

set lunch menu for each day<br />

of the week—bun cha and bun<br />

thit nuong on Monday (55,000<br />

VND), bun bo and goi cuon on<br />

Tuesday (55,000 VND), beef on<br />

Wednesday (75,000 VND), salad<br />

on Thursday (65,000 VND) and<br />

a rice dish on Friday (70,000<br />

VND). Breakfast including<br />

bacon, ham, pate, butter, bread<br />

and coffee is available for 85,000<br />

VND, too. What’s best about<br />

Things? It’s not overdone. It’s<br />

just perfect.<br />

Acoustic<br />

6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3<br />

Tel: 3930 2239<br />

www.acoustic.com.vn<br />

Walk into Acoustic of an afternoon<br />

and you could very well<br />

find yourself listening to pop<br />

star and 2007 Vietnam Idol finalist<br />

Thao Trang jamming with<br />

her band like I did. A favourite<br />

haunt for Vietnamese music lovers<br />

and singers alike, Acoustic’s<br />

location at the end of an alley<br />

off Ngo Thoi Nhiem doesn’t<br />

deter revellers from coming<br />

out in droves and it’s easy to<br />

understand why. It’s cosy and<br />

intimate with plenty of comfortable<br />

seating right in front of the<br />

stage. A palette of warm beiges<br />

comprises the colour scheme,<br />

which is complemented with<br />

black details. As well, live bands<br />

perform each night, singing<br />

both Vietnamese and English<br />

numbers. Acoustic has another<br />

location, too: The Factory, at 102<br />

Mac Thi Buoi in District 1.<br />

Warda<br />

71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 3822<br />

Out of sight at the back of an<br />

alley off bustling Mac Thi Buoi<br />

is Warda, a Lebanese lounge,<br />

bar and restaurant. Downstairs<br />

the space is separated into<br />

two sections across the hem: a<br />

Bedouin tent filled with padded<br />

bench seats and obligatory<br />

Middle Eastern-style throw<br />

cushions on one side and the<br />

bar and restaurant on the other.<br />

Upstairs, the beaded curtain<br />

room is perfect for a private<br />

dinner party. The menu is a high<br />

point, especially the choice of<br />

hot mezzas: couscous battered<br />

eggplant fingers with chilli<br />

and tahini sauce (65,000 VND)<br />

and Egyptian havashi—grilled<br />

pita bread with sautéed spiced<br />

minced lamb (88,000 VND). For<br />

the indecisive a hot mezza platter<br />

(188,000 VND) is the way to<br />

go. The spread includes kebeh<br />

(burgur coated minced lamb,<br />

onion and pinenuts), tomato<br />

calamari, sambousek (ovenbaked<br />

filo pastry filled with<br />

goats cheese and spinach), and<br />

grilled spicy chicken plus flat<br />

bread, tahini and hummus. For<br />

dessert, I can personally recommend<br />

the hot chocolate and fig<br />

pudding: a melt-in-your-mouth<br />

delight that erupts with gooey<br />

goodness once pierced (85,000<br />

42 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 43


Bong Bi<br />

Pumpkin flower<br />

Bong He<br />

Chive flowers<br />

Floral Flavours<br />

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .<br />

Bong Sung<br />

Water Lily<br />

Floral arrangements that pair perfectly with Vietnamese cuisine. By<br />

Beth Young. Researched by Stephy Thai. Image by Johnny Murphy.<br />

Bap Chuoi<br />

Banana flower<br />

Bong So Dua<br />

Pair chopsticks flowers<br />

Bong Dien Dien<br />

Sesbania sesban flowers<br />

Bong Thien Ly<br />

Fragrant cynanthe flowers<br />

Few Westerners scope out their<br />

local marketplace in search of<br />

edible flowers to bulk up their<br />

meals. Vietnamese, however,<br />

view the following flowers as<br />

delicacies. As such, these blossoms<br />

make appearances on special<br />

occasions like Tet, birthdays<br />

or the anniversary of a loved<br />

one’s death. Lack of celebration<br />

shouldn’t be a deterrent though.<br />

While some are seasonal, most<br />

are available year round and it’s<br />

definitely worth tempting your<br />

palate with these petals.<br />

Bong Bi<br />

Pumpkin flowers<br />

Bong bi is the male part of<br />

the pumpkin and as such the<br />

delicate yellow-hued flowers<br />

don’t bear fruit. The blossoms,<br />

however, can be boiled or fried<br />

and added to any number<br />

of Vietnamese dishes. Boiled<br />

bong bi is sweet with a slightly<br />

bitter aftertaste. To balance the<br />

flavour top it with braised fish<br />

or meat sauce or a spicy chilli<br />

and soy mixture. Otherwise, the<br />

blossoms are a great accompaniment<br />

to soups and garlic stirfries.<br />

Fried bong bi stuffed with<br />

finely ground shrimp, squid or<br />

lean meat and seasoned with<br />

green onion, salt, pepper and<br />

fish sauce, is purportedly the<br />

best way to down pumpkin<br />

flowers. The dish named bong<br />

bi nhoi thit chien is common in<br />

Southern Vietnam and Hue and<br />

is often prepared on special<br />

occasions like Tet or to commemorate<br />

a death. Bong bi are<br />

seasonal so be sure to grab a<br />

bundle if you see them.<br />

Bong Thien Ly<br />

Fragrant cynanthe flowers<br />

Bong thien ly come in two varieties:<br />

lemon-yellow and ivorywhite.<br />

Both are known for their<br />

tendency to share their sweet<br />

and fragrant scent when night<br />

falls and regardless of colour,<br />

are shaped like miniature wind<br />

chimes. The plant’s roots have<br />

medicinal properties and are<br />

said to heal bites and clear up<br />

urinary problems. The petals,<br />

however, are sweet and mild in<br />

flavour. Bong thien ly soup—<br />

the flower’s most common<br />

guise—is extremely simple<br />

to make. Soak bunches of the<br />

flowers in water to ensure all<br />

dirt and insects are removed<br />

then separate them. Cook the<br />

blossoms with minced meat,<br />

pounded field crab and ginger<br />

and soy sauce-marinated stirfried<br />

beef. The result is a fresh<br />

and light summer soup. Raw<br />

bong thien ly is also added to<br />

steaming hotpots.<br />

Bong He<br />

Chive flowers<br />

Bong he may be tiny but their<br />

healing properties are renowned.<br />

Cooked together with<br />

tofu it makes an antfebrile soup<br />

to relieve fevers and when stirfried<br />

with a chicken’s internal<br />

organs (heart, liver and gizzards)<br />

and saffron the miniscule<br />

buds help to soothe a persistent<br />

cough.<br />

Bong So Dua<br />

Pair chopsticks flowers<br />

Bong so dua are crescent-shaped<br />

white or purple flowers, whose<br />

petals sometimes curl downwards<br />

to resemble a pair of<br />

chopsticks—hence the name.<br />

These blooms are an acquired<br />

taste and one that fans can’t<br />

get enough of. Bong so dua<br />

blooms in October at the same<br />

time that linh fish is in season,<br />

giving rise to a soup that mixes<br />

both ingredients: canh chua ca<br />

linh bong so dua. To cook, rinse<br />

the flowers, then submerge in<br />

tamarind-flavoured boiling water<br />

together with the fish. Add<br />

spices to taste and lashings of<br />

crispy Vietnamese greens like<br />

ngo gai and rau om. Be careful<br />

not to overcook the flowers.<br />

They should be a little on the<br />

crunchy side. Ca loc boc bong<br />

so dua hap (steamed ca loc fish<br />

with pair chopstick flowers) is<br />

another popular dish.<br />

Bong Dien Dien<br />

Sesbania sesban flowers<br />

Mekong Delta residents eat<br />

bong dien dien raw or in sour<br />

linh fish soup. Otherwise, they<br />

eat the bright yellow flowers<br />

with bun mam (vermicelli<br />

noodle soup) or banh xeo (rice<br />

pancakes) and make dua chua<br />

(pickled vegetables) or goi<br />

(fresh spring rolls) with them.<br />

Bap Chuoi<br />

Banana flowers<br />

Known in the south as bap<br />

chuoi and in the north as bong<br />

chuoi, this purple flower is<br />

multi-purpose. It is used as a<br />

key ingredient in sour soup<br />

with shrimp, fish or eel and can<br />

be fried for a tasty treat. Most<br />

commonly though bap chuoi<br />

can be found in goi bap chuoi<br />

(banana blossom and squid<br />

salad) To make, cut the flowers<br />

into thin slices and soak them<br />

in water with a little lemon or<br />

vinegar. This will prevent the<br />

petals from discolouring and<br />

releasing any sap. After drying,<br />

mix with shrimp, boiled meat<br />

(either chicken or duck), rau<br />

ram (fragrant khotweed), onion<br />

and peanuts. Dress with fish<br />

sauce combined with sugar,<br />

lemon, garlic and chilli. Banana<br />

flowers also go nicely with bun<br />

rieu (crab meat noodle soup),<br />

bun bo (beef with vermicelli)<br />

and lau (hotpot).<br />

Bong Sung<br />

Water Lily<br />

Bong sung grows in any body<br />

of water, be it a pond, lake or<br />

canal, swamps or ditches (the<br />

latter, decidedly less appetizing).<br />

There are two varieties of<br />

bong sung: the large red-purple<br />

lotus and its smaller cousin the<br />

wild water lily, which is white.<br />

Bong sung is an exception to<br />

the other flowers mentioned<br />

here: its petals aren’t edible,<br />

just the stalk. Chunks of water<br />

lily stem (peeled and soaked<br />

first) are used as an ingredient<br />

in sour soup; eaten raw with<br />

braised fish and pickled in<br />

vinegar.<br />

44 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 45


Indiana Jones and the PP Juice Cafe<br />

Think of the times when travelling<br />

abroad you've come across<br />

fractured English menu items. I<br />

recall Beef in Wild Battle, Grilled<br />

Moose Bleeding, Lower Bowel<br />

Stew, Naked Crab. And how<br />

about other fractured English? I<br />

once bought a T-shirt proclaiming,<br />

“Inmutation is your sweetness:<br />

US difference of information!”<br />

I wore it proudly on the<br />

streets of Saigon. I saw another<br />

traveller wearing the message,<br />

“Put your main thing here.”<br />

Now you know I am an<br />

adventure eater. And drinker.<br />

Pride myself on it. Made<br />

money on it. The New York Times<br />

dubbed me “Indiana Jones of<br />

It was because<br />

there is a<br />

pedestrian bit<br />

of knowledge I<br />

have that made<br />

it inevitable<br />

that I should<br />

have a drink at<br />

the PP<br />

Gastronomy” for my willingness<br />

to go anywhere and court<br />

any danger for the sake of a new<br />

gastronomic experience. And I<br />

was doing it long before that fat<br />

guy on the Discovery Channel.<br />

So how do you think I felt when,<br />

recently, I was tooling along Vo<br />

Thi Sau boulevard and I saw a<br />

new juice bar? Now I must tell<br />

you that juice bars are a regular<br />

feature of the landscape here in<br />

Vietnam. You can imagine that<br />

freshly squeezed tropical fruit<br />

juices are a very popular daily<br />

indulgence in these parts. And<br />

you would be right about that.<br />

We have no need for Coke or<br />

7-Up here abouts. We got 'em,<br />

but we don't need 'em.<br />

But to my tale. I was on a<br />

motorbike of a recent evening,<br />

on my way to who-knowswhere.<br />

I rounded a corner as I<br />

sped along from some folderol<br />

in District 3, and there I saw<br />

it. A new juice bar. Bright blue<br />

neon lights proudly announced<br />

its name: “PP Juice.” Yep, you<br />

got that right, PP juice. As I<br />

zoomed by, I swore that I must<br />

soon return and enjoy PP Juice. I<br />

must tell you that it is a very attractive<br />

juice bar. Situated at the<br />

confluence of two of the city's<br />

more attractive thoroughfares,<br />

it features a wide-screen TV at<br />

which football fans and others<br />

may gather and an alfresco<br />

setting that gives a lovely view<br />

of life passing by. How can you<br />

not like it?<br />

So I had to go to indulge in<br />

PP Juice, hadn't I? Yes, I had. But<br />

there was another reason I had<br />

to go to PP. It was because there<br />

is a pedestrian bit of knowledge<br />

I have that made it inevitable<br />

that I should have a drink at<br />

the PP.<br />

So I told Constance (that's<br />

the mem-sahib, you know),<br />

“Let's go!” And so we went to<br />

PP. When we arrived, I said,<br />

“I'll have the papaya!” I'm very<br />

fond of papaya. It's delicious<br />

and good for the digestion, too.<br />

I have it often here. And so I<br />

had PP papaya. Isn't that fun<br />

to say, “PP papaya”? It falls out<br />

the mouth quite easily, doesn't<br />

it? “PP papaya!” Ha Ha! PP<br />

papaya. And it was good, too!<br />

Oh, but I forget that pedestrian<br />

bit of knowledge that<br />

made my visit inevitable. Well,<br />

without making a fuss over it,<br />

the Vietnamese word for papaya<br />

is “du du.” Yes, it is. Now, you<br />

know that I have eaten and<br />

drunk many a strange thing,<br />

but this time I can truthfully say<br />

that when I went to PP, I had a<br />

good du du.<br />

-Richard Sterling<br />

Ala Mezon<br />

A<br />

When Frenchman Albin Deforges<br />

was approached by his<br />

Japanese business partner Tabo<br />

Ichikawa regarding an idea for a<br />

restaurant, he could only think<br />

of one thing: home. Drawing<br />

from his own pleasure of<br />

entertaining friends at his house,<br />

Deforges settled on naming the<br />

venue “Ala Mezon.”<br />

The correct spelling should<br />

be “a la maison,” but Deforges<br />

chose a phonetic version in an<br />

attempt to attract all nationalities.<br />

"If I spelled it the French<br />

way,” he says, “only French<br />

people will come, and I do not<br />

want that." “A la" was altered to<br />

“ala,” a Japanese word used to<br />

express excitement.<br />

Though each of the four floors<br />

is decorated along a different<br />

new restaurant and bar serving a rotating menu embraces the idea that<br />

home is where the heart is. By Lolita Guevarra. Photos by Fred Wissink.<br />

theme, the underlying thread<br />

is comfort, emphasized by<br />

Japanese accents, contemporary<br />

furnishings and a menu of<br />

home style Eastern and Western<br />

dishes.<br />

Patrons enter through a dark<br />

red entrance hall and walk up a<br />

fluorescent lime green stairway<br />

to the bright orange second<br />

floor, which houses the main bar<br />

and a lounge exhibiting Deforges’<br />

personal photographs and<br />

those of Japanese photographer<br />

Naoto Ohike. The third floor<br />

features the girls’ room, pink<br />

from the walls to the furniture,<br />

including a bathroom decorated<br />

with female Japanese manga<br />

characters. Across the hall is the<br />

boys’ room containing a large<br />

flat-screen TV connected to an<br />

Xbox and Wii. Its bathroom mirrors<br />

Deforges' own adolescent<br />

bedroom with walls plastered<br />

with surf, snowboard and<br />

skateboard stickers. Whereas<br />

the "kids" may play on the third<br />

floor, the adults can relax and<br />

enjoy the view at the fourth<br />

floor rooftop terrace.<br />

Deforges and Ichikawa<br />

constructed a one-page menu<br />

revised every three to four days<br />

with simple but innovative<br />

preparations. Alternating appetizers<br />

include risotto balls with<br />

rice and mushroom, grilled fish<br />

maki (both 90,000 VND) and<br />

a rotation of crepes. There are<br />

only two main courses: either a<br />

rice or noodle dish, such as pork<br />

katsu with olive and tomato<br />

sauce over penne (mains range<br />

from 90,000 to 120,000 VND).<br />

Also provided are two choices<br />

for dessert with a chocolate<br />

option always listed. Deforges<br />

is proud of the Marquise de<br />

Martine, a dish named after his<br />

mother that pairs assorted fruit<br />

with an egg-based cream topped<br />

with uncooked pieces of chocolate<br />

(60,000 VND).<br />

Ala Mezon will open for<br />

lunch this month with two bento<br />

box options and additional Japanese<br />

and Western dishes. Since<br />

food and drink are served until<br />

1 am, you can stroll in when<br />

you’re looking for a late-night<br />

bite or last-minute night cap.<br />

10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1<br />

Tel: 6291 0447<br />

Open daily 5 pm till late.<br />

46 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 47


La Cafeteria de L’Usine<br />

An eclectic eatery that's conducive to<br />

creativity. By Beth Young. Photos by<br />

Fred Wissink.<br />

Bottoms Up<br />

It<br />

was bottoms up for <strong>Brett</strong> <strong>Davis</strong> at Hanoi-style bia hoi, Huy Beo.<br />

Photos by Jay Zhang.<br />

Peek through the windows that<br />

look in on L’Usine and an eclectic<br />

crowd can be seen lounging<br />

in the space’s forefront, mulling<br />

over their computers, brainstorming<br />

with coffee in hand or<br />

sitting quietly to the side deep<br />

in thought. L’Usine—a contemporary<br />

lifestyle outlet that retails<br />

in fashion and homewares and<br />

displays art—is named for the<br />

French word for "factory," and<br />

its recently opened eatery, La<br />

Cafeteria, is gaining a reputation<br />

among creative types as a space<br />

conducive to manufacturing<br />

ideas.<br />

Tib Hoang, L’Usine’s marketing<br />

and public relations manager,<br />

agrees. “This space is very<br />

inspirational,” she says of the<br />

high-ceilinged structure that’s<br />

been designed to emulate an<br />

old-style Indochine garment factory.<br />

In fact, the designer, Darren<br />

Chew, who created the furniture<br />

to match—including tables<br />

propped up with antique sewing<br />

machine stands—also created<br />

the menu. “He’s a multi-purpose<br />

man,” Hoang laughs.<br />

Chew worked as a chef<br />

and barista in Australia and<br />

helped friends to set up Jed’s<br />

Food Store, an iconic Jamaicaninspired<br />

café at Sydney’s<br />

Bondi Beach, before moving to<br />

Vietnam a decade ago. It was<br />

his idea to add La Cafeteria to<br />

L’Usine on the proviso that an<br />

emphasis was placed on quality<br />

over quantity. “The [plan] from<br />

the outset was to keep the menu<br />

small and tight and everything<br />

we do, we do well,” he says.<br />

The end result is a testament<br />

to this philosophy. There’s a<br />

compact selection of fresh-cut<br />

sandwiches, stuffed with fillings<br />

like Vietnamese caramelized<br />

pork and herb with lime dressing<br />

(75,000 VND); mushroom and olive<br />

stuffed chicken with roasted<br />

lettuce, tomato and aioli (95,000<br />

VND); and lamb loin with baby<br />

beet, feta cheese and rocket<br />

(115,000 VND). Plus good, and<br />

reasonably priced, strong coffee<br />

(40,000 to 50,000 VND).<br />

The breakfast options, available<br />

all day, are tempting, too.<br />

Diners can take the healthier<br />

route: a sunrise drink with<br />

mango, banana, yoghurt and<br />

berries (70,000 VND), or opt for<br />

wholesome, comfort food, like<br />

the breki burger—a bun topped<br />

with a poached egg, spinach,<br />

hollandaise sauce and either bacon<br />

or mushroom (75,000 VND).<br />

Aside from the food, another<br />

aspect that lends La Cafeteria<br />

its appeal is the staff. Whether it<br />

is Bao Ngoc, L’Usine’s in-house<br />

designer; Ann Nguyen, who is in<br />

charge of the gallery; or Hoang<br />

herself, each member of the team<br />

greets and interacts with café<br />

patrons. “You often see me serving<br />

customers,” Hoang says. “It’s<br />

all good. We like it.” As does La<br />

Cafeteria’s expanding following<br />

of designers, artists and writers.<br />

151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 (entrance via<br />

the street-level Art Arcade)<br />

Tel: 6674 9565<br />

Open daily 10 am to 10 pm<br />

One of the great pleasures of<br />

northern Vietnam is a cool,<br />

refreshing glass of bia hoi on a<br />

warm day—or any day, for that<br />

matter.<br />

Often, the fresh, unpasteurized<br />

beer is enjoyed in a small<br />

establishment consisting of a<br />

keg of beer and a few plastic<br />

chairs on a sidewalk. The brew<br />

is delivered to these venues every<br />

morning, and bia hoi aficionados<br />

will tell you that it is best<br />

drunk as soon as possible after it<br />

is made. If this means downing<br />

a few frothy ones before getting<br />

to the office, so be it. Fortunately<br />

bia hoi is a light, easy-drinking<br />

larger with about three percent<br />

alcohol content.<br />

However, the genuine article<br />

is something not commonly<br />

available here in HCM City<br />

unless you know where to look.<br />

One place where it can be found<br />

is Huy Beo at 54 Mai Thi Luu,<br />

just off Dien Bien Phu in District<br />

1. This three-level establishment<br />

is somewhat removed from the<br />

sidewalk plastic stools, yet it<br />

still has a simple and relaxed<br />

feel about it.<br />

It is a Friday afternoon when<br />

<strong>AsiaLIFE</strong> visits and the place<br />

steadily fills with a goodnatured,<br />

overwhelmingly male<br />

crowd. The top floor has an<br />

open-air section, which affords<br />

a nice view of the traffic rushing<br />

by on Dien Bien Phu. Straight<br />

away we get down to business<br />

and order bia hoi.<br />

The key to good bia hoi is<br />

the freshness, and the product<br />

served at Huy Beo is as authentic<br />

and tasty as it possibly can be<br />

because it is flown from Hanoi<br />

each day. The beer is served in<br />

a two litre steel jug immersed<br />

in a bucket of ice water. A jug<br />

will set you back 100,000 VND.<br />

A light gold in colour and with<br />

a minimal, foamy head, the beer<br />

goes down as smooth as silk<br />

and has a crisp, almost tangy<br />

finish.<br />

What would a bia hoi session<br />

be without some appropriate<br />

beer snacks? Huy Beo has a<br />

surprisingly extensive menu,<br />

although if you don’t read<br />

Vietnamese you will need some<br />

assistance. We began with cubes<br />

of fried tofu (dau hu chien gion)<br />

accompanied by bowls of fish<br />

sauce and shrimp paste for<br />

dipping. This was followed by<br />

fried eel (luon chien gion). The<br />

approximately 15cm long eels<br />

are fried whole and the dish is<br />

topped with crushed peanuts,<br />

slivers of onion and chopped,<br />

fresh green leaves. Rounding<br />

out our order was that everpopular<br />

beer food, fried squid<br />

(muc chien gion).<br />

As the sun set over HCM City<br />

and another working week, it<br />

was difficult to think of a more<br />

pleasant way to spend a few<br />

hours. It is hard to beat the<br />

combination of fried food, good<br />

conversation and above all good<br />

beer. Just remember to take care<br />

on the stairs on your way out.<br />

The bruise on my backside will<br />

remind me for sometime of the<br />

pitfalls of beer and inattention.<br />

48 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 49


Founded under the French,<br />

HCM City’s Phu Tho Race Track still attracts crowds<br />

eager to make a buck on the right horse.<br />

<strong>Brett</strong> <strong>Davis</strong> learns the ropes from some old hands.<br />

Photos by Fred Wissink.<br />

ot far from the entrance<br />

to the Phu Tho<br />

Race Track in District<br />

11 is a new high-rise<br />

residential and retail development<br />

called Flemington. I take<br />

this to be a good omen for the<br />

day ahead, Flemington being<br />

the most prestigious racecourse<br />

in my native Australia and<br />

home to the Melbourne Cup,<br />

one of the world’s great horse<br />

races.<br />

The Saigon Racing Club holds<br />

meetings at Phu Tho every<br />

weekend, and I have never<br />

been shy about taking up the<br />

opportunity to hand my money<br />

over to the bookies. When I was<br />

a child my father would take me<br />

to the races and I inherited his<br />

love of horses if not, unfortunately,<br />

his punting nous.<br />

I buy a form guide at the gate<br />

for 5,000 VND and it’s double<br />

that for admission. There appear<br />

to be several thousand people<br />

in attendance on a warm and<br />

humid Sunday afternoon with<br />

dark storm clouds swirling in<br />

the sky.<br />

The crowd is dressed for the<br />

weekend, very relaxed. This is<br />

different than race meetings at<br />

home where men wear a jacket<br />

and tie while women don a<br />

hat and a nice frock. Not to be<br />

denied the style to which I am<br />

accustomed, I seek out the ticket<br />

window for the VIP area and<br />

pay the 50,000 VND entry fee<br />

before making my way to the<br />

glass-enclosed, air-conditioned<br />

space on the top floor of the<br />

grandstand.<br />

Built in 1932, the grandstand<br />

is an elegant, if gently decaying,<br />

art deco masterpiece. The Phu<br />

Tho racetrack was the brainchild<br />

of three Frenchmen named<br />

Lorenzi, Gayllet and De Montbeziat,<br />

although there had been<br />

race meetings held in the area<br />

since the 1890s. Racing ceased in<br />

1975, but resumed again in 1989,<br />

with some of the facilities at the<br />

track upgraded in 2004.<br />

Settled in the VIP area—one<br />

of those recent upgrades—with<br />

a couple of cold beers in front<br />

of me, I turn my attention to<br />

the form guide. It is a fairly<br />

simple affair with details of each<br />

runner’s last four starts: finish,<br />

weight, distance and time. The<br />

form gives tips with handy stars<br />

placed next to the main fancies.<br />

The more stars, the more the<br />

horse is favoured.<br />

At the betting window I’m<br />

told the minimum wager is<br />

10,000 VND and the maximum<br />

30 million. I start at the modest<br />

end of the scale and choose the<br />

10 horse, a firm two-star favourite<br />

according to the form.<br />

Things don’t start well. My<br />

horse misses the start by a<br />

couple of lengths and the jockey<br />

uses up a lot of gas to have him<br />

up with the leaders at the back<br />

turn. As they come into the<br />

home straight the runners are<br />

veering all over the sand track.<br />

The jockeys are doing their best<br />

to urge their mounts, wielding<br />

the whip with a strange<br />

over-hand windmill motion.<br />

My horse has nothing left in the<br />

tank and fades to finish midfield.<br />

The form guide can be a<br />

devious mistress, but I guess<br />

that’s why they call it gambling<br />

and not banking.<br />

Down in the public galleries<br />

and among the proliferation of<br />

food stalls, the crowd is quickly<br />

back to the task at hand, heads<br />

bent over form guides in an<br />

attempt to divine the winner<br />

of the next race. Searching for<br />

some inspiration of my own,<br />

I wander down to one of the<br />

atriums where the serious horse<br />

players seem to hang out. The<br />

binoculars are always a giveaway.<br />

A lean, middle-aged man<br />

with a mustache and glasses<br />

comes and introduces himself<br />

as Phuc. I ask if he comes to the<br />

races often and he tells me he is<br />

here every weekend. He could<br />

be just the guy I’m looking for.<br />

“Who do you like in the<br />

next?” I ask.<br />

“The number three if it is a<br />

slow race. It will stay at the back<br />

and finish fast. The number five<br />

is a young horse so it would be<br />

good if they go fast,” he says.<br />

Given that the general race<br />

tactics I have seen so far amount<br />

to “Go like hell and hope for the<br />

best,” I plump for the five horse.<br />

As the runners roll down the<br />

home straight the jockey doesn’t<br />

even require the whip, riding<br />

number five hands and heels to<br />

the line to win by four lengths.<br />

God bless you, Mr. Phuc.<br />

I was so busy cheering my<br />

horse home I didn’t realize<br />

until it was pointed out to me<br />

that another of the runners was<br />

down on the track just in front<br />

of the starting gate. The horse<br />

appeared to stumble out of the<br />

gate, tottered for a few steps and<br />

lay down. The jockey was not<br />

hurt. Attendants and veterinary<br />

staff were running across the<br />

infield towards the prone animal.<br />

It is always a terrible sight.<br />

I found Phuc and asked him<br />

what happened, although I had<br />

a pretty good idea.<br />

He tapped his right knee with<br />

his hand and said “broken leg.”<br />

“Will they destroy the horse?”<br />

“Yes.”<br />

Injuries like this happen in<br />

racing the world over, yet it is<br />

always a profoundly sad and<br />

distressing thing. Soon enough<br />

the unfortunate creature is<br />

moved onto a float towed<br />

by a tractor and taken away.<br />

Meanwhile the runners in the<br />

The form guide can be a devious mistress, but I guess<br />

that's why they call it gambling and not banking.<br />

next race are parading in the<br />

mounting yard.<br />

Later I went down to the<br />

stables where the grooms were<br />

washing down the horses from<br />

the previous race or saddling<br />

up the runners in the next. The<br />

horses looked small, little more<br />

than ponies. Beyond the stables<br />

was another public area with<br />

more food stalls and more betting<br />

windows. I was surprised<br />

to see some of the horses, the<br />

bridle ropes held by young<br />

boys, standing among the<br />

crowd. The informality of the<br />

track here is something very different<br />

to other racing countries<br />

but it certainly makes you feel<br />

involved.<br />

Down by the rail near the<br />

finishing post I watched the<br />

runners in another race come<br />

past while talking to 58-year-old<br />

Nguyen Ky. He has been coming<br />

to the races since he was a<br />

boy, when he was brought along<br />

by his father. Ky says there have<br />

been many changes at the track<br />

over the years, including the<br />

crowd.<br />

“There are less people than<br />

years ago, not so many young<br />

people,” he says.<br />

The runners file past us on<br />

the way back to the mounting<br />

enclosure. The jockeys, wearing<br />

outsized silks and their faces<br />

splattered with mud from flying<br />

hooves, seem impossibly young<br />

to ride with such fearlessness.<br />

Ky does not really share my<br />

concern, telling me they are<br />

at least 15 or 16 and have to<br />

undertake a course and train for<br />

many months before they can<br />

ride in races.<br />

The rain starts to come down<br />

more heavily. Before I take my<br />

leave and head back to the stand<br />

I ask Ky what horse he will bet<br />

on in the next. He thinks the<br />

number 11 is a good bet. Sure<br />

enough the number 11 horse<br />

gets up to win. It seems a little<br />

local knowledge is a valuable<br />

thing.<br />

Horse racing in Vietnam is<br />

not the social outing it is in<br />

many other countries. Here it is<br />

all about the business of wagering<br />

on the right horse. But it has<br />

been a good day, and as I make<br />

way towards the exit I remember<br />

that it is always fun to walk<br />

away a winner.<br />

50 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 51


the Power of your<br />

Inner Circle<br />

In the first in a series of articles based on Citynetevents.com’s Meeting Point<br />

networking and seminar nights, Paul Wong of Radical Coaching explains why mentors<br />

are the key to your success and happiness and how to find the right ones. Edited from<br />

the seminar by Tom DiChristopher.<br />

"The key to<br />

maintaining your<br />

relationships<br />

with mentors<br />

is structure.<br />

Remember, building<br />

relationships is<br />

tiring."<br />

Consider the following: World<br />

tennis number one Rafael Nadal<br />

was mentored by his uncle Toni<br />

Nadal since the age of 12. Bill<br />

Gates had a number of mentors:<br />

Ed Roberts, “the father of the<br />

personal computer”; his parents;<br />

and Warren Buffet. Google<br />

founders Larry Page and Sergei<br />

Brin point to Stanford professor<br />

Rajeev Motwani as their mentor.<br />

That these champions in<br />

their fields became great isn’t<br />

a coincidence. In Good to Great,<br />

author Jim Collins asserts that<br />

great companies understand<br />

mentoring, noting that almost<br />

90 percent of leaders who made<br />

their companies great came<br />

from within the company over a<br />

10- to 20-year period.<br />

Why is mentoring so important?<br />

In order to succeed we<br />

need people. More specifically,<br />

we need the right people who<br />

will help us become the right<br />

person. The people who help us<br />

become that person are known<br />

as our inner circle.<br />

Identifying Your Inner Circle<br />

An inner circle is comprised of a<br />

number of people in a mentor/<br />

mentee relationship. A mentee,<br />

or protégé, is someone who is<br />

committed to cultivating relationships<br />

that will help him or<br />

her learn, grow and succeed. A<br />

mentor is someone who is committed<br />

to guiding a mentee with<br />

all he or she knows. Think of it<br />

as concentric circles, with yourself<br />

positioned at the centre.<br />

The outermost circle is made<br />

up by distant mentors. These<br />

are people we admire from a<br />

distance. They may be people<br />

of the past or who are still alive<br />

today. We value their thoughts,<br />

ideas and opinions and allow<br />

them to influence us. There are<br />

certain bloggers and newspaper<br />

columnists you read. You prefer<br />

certain authors over others.<br />

You might admire some hero<br />

from the past, like Abraham<br />

Lincoln or Ho Chi Minh. These,<br />

you could say, are your distant<br />

mentors. By reading their work<br />

or studying their lives, you’re<br />

allowing them to influence you.<br />

If we are being intentional about<br />

it, we should ask, “Are they really<br />

helping us to be who we are<br />

meant to be?”<br />

Distant mentors may be<br />

people with whom you have a<br />

very distant relationship. Maybe<br />

they live abroad and you just<br />

email them once a month or<br />

once every three months. You<br />

might turn to a distant mentor<br />

for advice every now and then,<br />

but you need to communicate<br />

and make sure the relationship<br />

is still there. You’ve got to keep<br />

"Mentoring is<br />

actually doing<br />

business. You’re<br />

exchanging very,<br />

very powerful<br />

information with<br />

one another."<br />

in touch, even if you’ve got<br />

nothing to ask. Even if you’re<br />

quite far away, ask if there’s<br />

anything you can help him or<br />

her with. Instead of emailing,<br />

give that person a call. The telephone<br />

always beats email.<br />

Closer to you on the concentric<br />

diagram are your peer<br />

mentors—people who are<br />

like-minded. For example, you<br />

love entrepreneurship. You’re<br />

just fascinated with what it<br />

takes to be an entrepreneur. You<br />

read books by Warren Buffet<br />

and Donald Trump. So you<br />

look out for people on your<br />

level to whom entrepreneurship<br />

appeals, as well. You want the<br />

same thing and you’re willing<br />

to help one another to achieve<br />

it. You can learn from them and<br />

they can learn from you. Those<br />

are your peer mentors.<br />

Peer mentorships work best<br />

in groups. You slowly form your<br />

relationship with them and then<br />

start a group that meets regularly.<br />

You can start that process<br />

in your own company. You see<br />

a few guys who really want to<br />

learn and grow. They want to be<br />

successful and you want to be<br />

successful. That’s the common<br />

ground on which you can start<br />

building a peer mentor group.<br />

It’s not only about learning<br />

together. It’s about providing<br />

support and encouragement.<br />

You all want to be successful,<br />

but the truth of the matter is<br />

there are going to be challenges<br />

in life. There are days when<br />

your customer, your boss—<br />

somebody—does something<br />

that makes you lose your confidence.<br />

You can go back to your<br />

peer mentor group and talk<br />

it out. Peer mentors are really<br />

comrades.<br />

Closest to you on the concentric<br />

diagram is the master<br />

mentor—the person you want<br />

to be like. Sometimes a master<br />

mentor is very hard to find.<br />

Most people don’t even know<br />

who to look for.<br />

The key to finding a master<br />

mentor is to look for people<br />

who simply care about you<br />

and sincerely want to help<br />

you grow. A master mentor is<br />

someone who has integrity and<br />

is willing to tell you the truth,<br />

someone who has humility and<br />

also wants to grow. Choose<br />

very wisely; it’s not a decision<br />

that you can make and change<br />

every three months. A mentoring<br />

relationship will not happen<br />

like that.<br />

Take it slowly. You can’t build<br />

an inner circle in one year. It’s<br />

taken me almost 10 years to find<br />

the right people. It’s like King<br />

Arthur building his knights of<br />

the round table. I don’t think<br />

he put out an advertisement<br />

saying, “I want to recruit 12<br />

knights.” He knows who he’s<br />

looking for. He builds his table<br />

over a long period of time, and<br />

then he builds a strong relationship<br />

with them. That’s how it’s<br />

done. It’s a long-term art.<br />

Four Steps for Approaching a<br />

Mentor<br />

The peer mentor group is<br />

actually easier to form. There<br />

are a lot of stories of how just<br />

with peer mentor groups alone,<br />

people have really progressed in<br />

their careers and in life. If you<br />

really want to start somewhere,<br />

start at the peer mentor level. At<br />

least if you have the humility to<br />

listen to someone at your level,<br />

you can be sure that when you<br />

approach a master mentor he<br />

can sense your humility and be<br />

more likely to help you also.<br />

However, humility alone<br />

won’t do it. You need a strategy.<br />

The first step is to be intentional.<br />

Being intentional entails<br />

having a plan to approach a potential<br />

mentor. Let’s say we are<br />

working at the same company,<br />

and after working together for<br />

a while, I notice that I can learn<br />

a lot from you. I want to have<br />

a plan to be friends with you,<br />

whether it’s just walking right<br />

up to you and asking you to<br />

lunch or signing on to some<br />

project or volunteer work you’re<br />

involved with. Try to find common<br />

ground and start there.<br />

The next two steps are closely<br />

related: build friendship and<br />

build trust. Consider what author<br />

and motivational speaker<br />

Zig Ziglar says: “If people like<br />

you, they will be friends with<br />

you. If they trust you, they will<br />

do business with you.” Mentoring<br />

is actually doing business.<br />

You’re exchanging very, very<br />

powerful information with<br />

one another and building a<br />

long-term relationship on commitment<br />

and trust. Spend time<br />

and build friendship first. Then,<br />

find out if you can add value to<br />

your mentor’s life, even if it’s<br />

helping with the small things.<br />

Every time you’re helpful, you<br />

build trust. And then you reach<br />

a stage where you are ready to<br />

pop the question: “Would you<br />

mentor me?” If the trust is right,<br />

you are most likely to get a yes.<br />

If the trust is not right, you’re<br />

building up the rejection.<br />

The last step is to be transparent.<br />

That means making the relationship<br />

official. It’s really like<br />

dating. A lot of people go into<br />

what I call subconscious dating.<br />

They go to events and spend<br />

time together, but they don't<br />

acknowledge their relationship<br />

until a third party asks, “Are<br />

you dating?” In subconscious<br />

dating, you’re just drifting,<br />

going with the flow. Mentoring<br />

is not going to happen like<br />

that. You can’t just drift into a<br />

mentoring relationship. You’ve<br />

got to be very intentional and<br />

say, “I want to go there, and I<br />

see you want to go there too.<br />

I admire you. I think I could<br />

learn a lot from you. Could you<br />

be my mentor?” Without that<br />

conversation, it’s not going to<br />

happen.<br />

The key to being intentional<br />

is making sure your three levels<br />

of the inner circle are aligned<br />

in regards to how you are<br />

connected with these people.<br />

The relationships don’t have<br />

to be 100 percent identical, but<br />

they’re aligned on what matters<br />

the most. When inviting mentors<br />

into your life, you should<br />

consider three questions: Where<br />

are you headed (your personal<br />

vision and mission)? What matters<br />

to you (your value system)?<br />

Who can help you?<br />

Making Mentorships Work<br />

The key to maintaining your<br />

relationships with mentors is<br />

structure. This is where most<br />

people fail. They’re really<br />

excited about it, but then after<br />

two months, after pouring<br />

their whole heart into it, they<br />

get tired. Remember, building<br />

relationships is tiring.<br />

That’s why you need some<br />

kind of realistic structure,<br />

whether that’s meeting once<br />

a week or once a month. Peer<br />

mentorships are best if you<br />

can meet in groups, but master<br />

mentors you need to meet one<br />

on one. For both master mentors<br />

and peer mentors, eat with them<br />

once a week. Everyone has to<br />

eat, so pick a lunch day. That<br />

way, it’s there and you don’t<br />

have to think about it anymore.<br />

Every Wednesday, we have<br />

lunch.<br />

What’s going to happen at<br />

Wednesday lunch? Have a plan,<br />

and take it in small chunks of<br />

time: We’re going to read this<br />

book and discuss it for the next<br />

three months. Don’t say, “We’re<br />

going to do this forever. We’re<br />

going to look at each other and<br />

challenge each other to be successful.”<br />

It’s going to get boring.<br />

Whatever you choose, stick to it.<br />

There are a few signs of a<br />

healthy mentoring relationship.<br />

You and your mentor should be<br />

close, but you needn’t be best<br />

friends. A mentoring relationship<br />

should be interdependent,<br />

not over-dependent. Your<br />

mentor is an advisor, not an IT<br />

Helpdesk. Your mentor should<br />

draw you closer to your spouse<br />

and family, not away; be aware<br />

that a spouse or partner can feel<br />

neglected if he or she perceives<br />

that you can’t talk to them about<br />

things you can talk to your mentor<br />

about.<br />

Everyone has some sort of<br />

an inner circle. The key is how<br />

intentional we are in building<br />

our inner circle and surrounding<br />

ourselves with the people who<br />

will influence us to be the best<br />

we can be.<br />

Is your inner circle helping<br />

you become a champion at home<br />

and at work? If the idea is new<br />

to you, you can begin taking a<br />

deeper look at your inner circle<br />

today and start building one that<br />

will truly help you be the man or<br />

woman you are meant to be.<br />

52 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 53


Expect that you may initially<br />

encounter tears or misbehaviour<br />

after school. These are common<br />

stress-related responses<br />

Summer’s Out<br />

for School<br />

Many families experience a rough<br />

patch during the transition from<br />

summertime to school days.<br />

Daniel Hahn, school psychologist,<br />

explains how parents can help<br />

educators set their children up for<br />

success in those critical first weeks.<br />

Photo by Fred Wissink.<br />

During the first weeks of the<br />

school year, our goal as educators<br />

is to make students feel<br />

comfortable at school as quickly<br />

as possible. However, we enter<br />

the new term knowing that<br />

some students get used to new<br />

situations very quickly, while<br />

others need more time to adjust.<br />

We also know that both of these<br />

reactions are normal.<br />

As we begin the school year,<br />

parents can partner with us<br />

to ease students through the<br />

process by establishing at-home<br />

schedules and keeping lines<br />

of communication open with<br />

children. Remember, few of<br />

us do well with split-second<br />

changes. Talking with your<br />

children about the ways that<br />

life will change as we transition<br />

from vacation to the school year<br />

provides an opportunity for you<br />

to explain your expectations<br />

and for them to speak about any<br />

anxieties they may have.<br />

Here are a few tips on how<br />

to alleviate the stress that often<br />

accompanies the return of the<br />

academic year.<br />

Scheduling for Success<br />

Placing your family on schedules<br />

with regard to bedtimes<br />

and meals is a critical first step.<br />

A good night’s sleep is essential<br />

to optimizing school performance.<br />

The suggested amount<br />

of sleep for elementary students<br />

is between 10 and 12 hours per<br />

night. Certainly students will<br />

at first find it difficult to adjust<br />

to the new bedtime. Evening<br />

activities like brushing up on<br />

academic skills and family<br />

reading will assist your child<br />

through the transition. Evening<br />

reading time in particular provides<br />

academic enrichment and<br />

may hasten sleep. Decreasing<br />

the time allotted for television,<br />

movies and video games may<br />

also prove an effective signal of<br />

the return to school responsibilities.<br />

Dealing with Dawdling<br />

With regard to the logistics of<br />

the morning routine, it may be<br />

helpful to view yourself as the<br />

"getting out of the door" coach.<br />

Consider having your children<br />

make choices about tomorrow’s<br />

school clothes at night. In addition,<br />

choosing a pre-set, easily<br />

accessible place for backpacks<br />

may ameliorate the morning<br />

rush. As the year begins, you<br />

may find your youngster making<br />

less than positive comments<br />

about getting up early or going<br />

to school. It is best to ignore any<br />

negativity. Instead, direct the<br />

morning routine with a smile<br />

on your face. Keep reminders<br />

brief and to the point ("Shoes."<br />

"Backpack.") or consider using<br />

open-ended questions ("What<br />

do you need to do next?"). If<br />

dawdling persists, use natural,<br />

logical consequences. Wake<br />

them earlier if they need more<br />

time. If they speed up their<br />

routine, then allow a later wake<br />

up. You can also follow through<br />

with an earlier to-bed time.<br />

Don’t bribe your children; allow<br />

them to earn privileges for demonstrating<br />

responsibility.<br />

Employing Incentives<br />

For the more forgetful child or<br />

one who has difficulties with<br />

settling into a routine, a star<br />

chart may be helpful. A star<br />

chart is essentially a checklist of<br />

those morning tasks organized<br />

on a grid of lines divided into<br />

days of the week. They can be<br />

photocopied and put on a clipboard<br />

and placed in a prominent<br />

place in your home. Once<br />

the child completes the tasks,<br />

they can be checked off (or you<br />

can use a smiley face). Children<br />

can earn extra privileges or a<br />

toy based on their performance.<br />

Oftentimes dawdling is simply<br />

due to younger children having<br />

not yet internalized a sense of<br />

time. The use of a kitchen timer,<br />

for example, can be helpful.<br />

Easing Academic Anxiety<br />

Many children may experience<br />

anxiety about the bus, their<br />

classmates, their teacher and<br />

how they will perform in school.<br />

This is normal, and reassurance<br />

from parents is key to increasing<br />

their confidence. If your child<br />

in some way indicates concern<br />

about the school year, provide<br />

an opportunity for them to talk<br />

about their feelings. Ask openended<br />

rather than yes/no questions.<br />

Use reflective listening<br />

and paraphrasing, and be empathic.<br />

Acknowledge their feelings<br />

and offer encouragement.<br />

Reassure your child that his<br />

or her classmates are all trying<br />

to settle in after summer and/<br />

or get used to a new school. Be<br />

aware of your own feelings and<br />

anxieties as children often reflect<br />

parental concerns. Exude confidence<br />

when you say goodbye to<br />

your children.<br />

Coping with School-Related<br />

Stress<br />

If you haven’t already, state<br />

your expectations for behaviour<br />

and completing class/homework<br />

assignments. Expect that<br />

you may initially encounter<br />

tears or misbehaviour after<br />

school. These are common<br />

stress-related responses. Do<br />

not overreact unless patterns<br />

of behaviour persist after<br />

several weeks. Be proactive and<br />

talk to the classroom teacher<br />

and school counselors. Many<br />

students are over-scheduled,<br />

and it’s important to help them<br />

pace themselves during the<br />

beginning of the school year,<br />

especially while it is still hot<br />

and humid. Consider minimizing<br />

home and extracurricular<br />

activities during the first part<br />

of the term if necessary, and<br />

allow time for free play. Increase<br />

responsibilities and activities as<br />

your child settles into the school<br />

routine.<br />

As we progress through the<br />

school year, your child’s teacher,<br />

counselor and administrators<br />

all work together to support the<br />

academic and emotional development<br />

of students. Best of luck<br />

to you and your family with the<br />

2010-11 school year!<br />

54 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 55


Skeeter Beaters<br />

Unconventional weapons and holistic household approaches in the war against<br />

mosquitoes. By Alexandra Karina. Photo by Fred Wissink.<br />

I’m the biggest mosquito target<br />

in my family and among my<br />

friends. I hate the little buggers<br />

with a vengeance—and vengeance<br />

I do take. I recently spent<br />

a good half-hour hunting down<br />

the eight mozzies throwing me a<br />

housewarming party.<br />

DEET-based OFF! bug spray<br />

and I were best buds until<br />

I became wary of chemical<br />

sprays. I’m inhaling more than<br />

enough toxins strolling down<br />

Hai Ba Trung, thanks. Since<br />

we’ve parted ways, I’ve tried<br />

just about every DIY mosquito<br />

solution under the sun in finding<br />

my ultimate combination for<br />

effective mozzie protection.<br />

Wearing loose-fitting<br />

long-sleeve tops and pants in<br />

light, breathable fabrics, using<br />

citronella candles and incense,<br />

avoiding bananas—all common<br />

advice that work to an extent.<br />

Beyond those basics, however,<br />

there are many weapons you<br />

can add to your arsenal in the<br />

fight against blood theft.<br />

Avoid Mosquito Attractants<br />

Dark and bright clothing and<br />

accessories attract mosquitoes<br />

from a distance. Red, blue<br />

and black are particularly<br />

eye-catching to the hungry<br />

swarms.<br />

Fruity and floral fragrances<br />

are the equivalent of hanging<br />

an “All You Can Eat” sign out<br />

for mozzies. While perfumes<br />

do so most effectively, shampoos,<br />

lotions, sunscreens,<br />

deodorants, cosmetics,<br />

detergents and various other<br />

products in your hygienic arsenal<br />

are potential attractants<br />

as well. The scents may seem<br />

subtle, but they’re capable of<br />

hooking skeeters by the nose<br />

from 20 to 35 metres away once<br />

activated by your body heat.<br />

Heat brings mosquitoes<br />

a-calling due to the infra-red<br />

radiation your hot bod gives<br />

off. If you’re on the go, splash<br />

your skin with water to take off<br />

a few degrees.<br />

Perspiration paints a huge<br />

bulls-eye on your body, both<br />

due to the increased humidity<br />

enveloping you and the chemicals<br />

in your sweat. If you just<br />

can’t acclimate to the tropics,<br />

consider prescription-strength<br />

deodorant/antiperspirant.<br />

CO2 is released in larger<br />

amounts after exercise and<br />

in hot weather. Candles and<br />

incense also give off CO2, so<br />

reach for a citronella-scented<br />

one.<br />

Lactic acid also releases after<br />

exercising or consuming foods<br />

high in salt or potassium (hence<br />

the advice to avoid bananas).<br />

Fortify Your Home<br />

Damp, cool areas and standing<br />

water are notorious mosquito<br />

hangouts, since the buggers<br />

become dehydrated easily. Keep<br />

those bathroom doors closed,<br />

and look for pits and shallow<br />

surfaces during the rainy<br />

season.<br />

Dirty laundry contains your<br />

sweat and chemical scent, so<br />

don’t be surprised if you find<br />

the vampires congregating<br />

there, particularly if the pile<br />

contains gym shorts or evening<br />

wear.<br />

Netting is one of the most<br />

effective weapons in the fight<br />

against skeeters. Why stop at<br />

the bed, though? For a DIY<br />

window screen that works with<br />

Vietnamese windows, cut and<br />

fit netting over the iron bars<br />

and fasten the four corners<br />

with screws or adhesive hooks.<br />

For better protection, tape up<br />

the sides that won’t get in the<br />

way of accessing the window.<br />

If you’re renting a room in a<br />

house that’s ridden with the<br />

buggers, consider a DIY bedroom<br />

door screen.<br />

Fans keep you cool on the<br />

cheap while keeping mosquitoes,<br />

which can only fly at 8<br />

mph at best, at bay.<br />

Essential oils including<br />

citronella, eucalyptus, catnip,<br />

tansy, rosemary, lavender, basil,<br />

thyme, peppermint or garlic<br />

keep mozzies at a distance.<br />

Include them in your garden or<br />

arrange them in potted plants to<br />

create a natural mozzie barrier<br />

in and around your home. Steep<br />

the herbs and flowers in vodka<br />

for a room spray or in a carrier<br />

oil such as soybean oil for an<br />

anti-skeeter skin spray. Several<br />

other plants will keep mozzies<br />

away, but not all are safe to use<br />

as sprays.<br />

An aquarium or a fish pond<br />

of fathead minnows, guppies<br />

or mosquito fish will keep<br />

mosquito levels down. The<br />

bloodsuckers breed in the still<br />

water, and the fish love feeding<br />

on mini mozzies.<br />

Geckos are my favourite pets in<br />

Vietnam. They never demand<br />

attention, make a mess or leave<br />

me with a huge food bill—they<br />

feed on mozzies!<br />

Bite First Aid<br />

Baking soda mixed with just<br />

enough H2O to make a paste<br />

is all it takes to bring swelling<br />

down and stop the itch. If you<br />

have bites that have scabbed<br />

over from relentless scratching,<br />

don’t be surprised if you find<br />

the closed wounds covered by<br />

crystallized, amber-hued beads<br />

after a few hours; the baking<br />

soda will draw the toxins out<br />

from under the scab.<br />

Meat tenderizer can neutralize<br />

allergic reactions to the mosquito’s<br />

anticoagulant. Ironic to<br />

be using meat tenderizer after<br />

having been made a meal of.<br />

Tea tree essential oil, calamine<br />

lotion, cortisone cream, antihistamine<br />

meds and ice packs<br />

can help sooth the itch.<br />

Smack yourself to get the blood<br />

and antihistamines flowing.<br />

Compress and release the bite<br />

area to help the toxins disperse.<br />

Fight the urge to scratch. You’ll<br />

make things worse.<br />

Stay hydrated, as dehydration<br />

will magnify bite reactions.<br />

56 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 57


Out With the New,<br />

In With the Old<br />

A new shop on Nguyen Trai introduces vintage to HCM City.<br />

By Tom DiChristopher. Photos by Fred Wissink.<br />

In a city obsessed with labels—<br />

particularly those sewed,<br />

bejewelled or imprinted on the<br />

latest brand apparel—Con Qua<br />

Den (Black Crow) is a bit of a<br />

black sheep. The little boutique<br />

aims to introduce a new word to<br />

HCM City’s fashion lexicon: old.<br />

Occupying a first floor space<br />

in a brutalist apartment block on<br />

Nguyen Trai and Le Loi streets,<br />

Con Qua Den has quietly been<br />

building a name for itself among<br />

artists, creatives and advertising<br />

professionals as HCM City’s<br />

premier—and perhaps only—<br />

retailer of vintage clothing and<br />

accessories.<br />

Proprietor Hoang Minh is<br />

herself a graphic designer and<br />

refugee from the advertising<br />

world. She traces her retrophilia<br />

back to her youthful fascination<br />

with icons like Audrey Hepburn<br />

and Dolly Parton. But it wasn’t<br />

until university, while researching<br />

costumes for a film project,<br />

that she became aware of the<br />

concept of vintage in the context<br />

of fashion. For many Vietnamese<br />

consumers, she says, vintage<br />

remains unheard of.<br />

“They think you have to wear<br />

new things,” she says. “They<br />

can’t imagine how you can mix<br />

the old things and new things.”<br />

Con Qua Den has everything<br />

you’d need to challenge that<br />

mindset. Scattered around a<br />

homey space furnished in dark<br />

woods and decorated with<br />

quirky bric-a-brac are fashion<br />

items from days past. A highwaisted<br />

dark blue shirtdress<br />

patterned with bright daffodils<br />

costs just 425,000 VND.<br />

Bags generally range from<br />

1.5 to 2 million VND; a Fossil<br />

satchel purse was priced at<br />

1,499,000 VND on Con Qua<br />

Den’s Facebook page. The stock<br />

of sunglasses tends towards<br />

starlet shades from the likes<br />

of Nina Ricci and Christian<br />

Dior, but Hoang will also select<br />

no-names that simply strike her<br />

fancy. Wallets, shoes, jewellery,<br />

belts, hats and scarves are also<br />

available for the detail-oriented<br />

throwback artist.<br />

What Hoang doesn’t find<br />

herself on eBay is purchased<br />

and sent from the United<br />

States by her collaborator, who<br />

searches through estate sales,<br />

garage sales and flea markets<br />

for remarkable items.<br />

Hoang says she doesn’t yet<br />

have a large expatriate clientele<br />

for a simple reason. “There’s<br />

that old saying: selling fish<br />

to the fisherman,” she says.<br />

However, for those who head to<br />

Bangkok night markets or tote<br />

an empty suitcase to Singapore<br />

to satisfy their retro shopping<br />

pangs, the arrival of Con Qua<br />

Den could take some of the<br />

travel out of supporting a vintage<br />

lifestyle.<br />

145/14 Nguyen Trai, D1, 1st floor<br />

(entrance at 141 Nguyen Trai)<br />

tel: 6291 0985<br />

www.conquaden.com<br />

Open from 9.30 am to 8 pm daily<br />

58 asialife HCMC


he Australian fashion designer, Tracey Kociuruba draws<br />

inspiration from her Ukrainian heritage and her newly opened<br />

boutique on Ton That Thiep—beautifully refurbished to resemble<br />

an elaborate Eastern European cathedral—pays homage to<br />

her family’s background. Her designs—classic, timeless pieces<br />

with intricate hand-spun details—evoke snapshots from a more<br />

elegant age, albeit with a youthful edge.<br />

60 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 61


Styling: Tracey Kociuruba<br />

Makeup: Bui Ba Tuoc by Make Up For Ever<br />

Model: Joanna Oshima<br />

Photographer: Fred Wissink<br />

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery,<br />

2nd floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, D1.<br />

62 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 63


listings<br />

hotel &<br />

travel<br />

AIRLINES<br />

Air Asia<br />

254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810<br />

www.airasia.com<br />

Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates<br />

one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi,<br />

as well as international flights to Bangkok,<br />

Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.<br />

Cathay Pacific<br />

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3<br />

Tel: 3822 3203<br />

www.cathaypacific.com<br />

Hong Kong-based airline makes three<br />

flights daily to HCM City and two flights<br />

daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.<br />

Fares start at about $300.<br />

Jetstar Pacific<br />

www.jetstar.com<br />

Budget branch of Australian Qantas flies<br />

into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong,<br />

HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and<br />

operates cheap flights from HCM City<br />

to Siem Reap and Bangkok. Check out<br />

Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion from<br />

2 to 5 pm every Friday.<br />

Malaysia Airlines<br />

www.malaysiaairlines.com<br />

Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM<br />

City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200<br />

round trip, with four economy class fare<br />

levels: low, basic, smart and flex.<br />

escape take flight with travel promotions around the region<br />

Furama Resort Danang<br />

Through December 31, Furama Resort<br />

Danang is offering a two night,<br />

three day package for USD $185 ++<br />

per person for twin share or $320<br />

++ per package for single use. The<br />

deal includes accommodation in<br />

a Garden View room, daily buffet<br />

breakfast, round-trip airport transfers<br />

and in-room Internet access.<br />

Stay an extra night (single $165<br />

++; double $185 ++) and receive a<br />

complimentary set dinner at Don<br />

Cipriani’s. Call 511 3847 333/888 or<br />

visit www.furamavietnam.com.<br />

Evason Ana Mandara & Six<br />

Senses Spa<br />

Through December 19, one night<br />

at the Evason Ana Mandara & Six<br />

Senses Spa begins at USD $180 ++<br />

per night for a Garden View room<br />

and includes a daily breakfast buffet;<br />

shuttle bus airport transfers;<br />

welcome drink and fruit basket<br />

and complimentary use of internet,<br />

Philippine Airways<br />

229 Dong Khoi, D3 Tel: 3822 2241<br />

www.philippineairlines.com<br />

Operates daily service from HCM City to<br />

Manila, offering fare options through the<br />

PAL Econo Light Class.<br />

Thai Airways<br />

65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810<br />

29 Le Duan, D1<br />

www.thaiair.com<br />

Bangkok-based airline connects twice<br />

daily between the Thai capital and HCM<br />

City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are<br />

also operated from both to Phnom Penh<br />

and Phuket.<br />

VASCO<br />

Vietnam Airlines office, 116 Nguyen<br />

Hue, D1<br />

Tel: 3842 2790<br />

www.vasco.com.vn<br />

Though it’s primary business is cargo<br />

shipment, Vietnam Air Service Company<br />

(VASCO) flies daily from HCM City to<br />

Con Dao and makes connections to<br />

lesser-known cities like Ca Mau, Tuy Hoa<br />

and Chu Lai. Buy tickets at the Vietnam<br />

Airlines office.<br />

Vietnam Airlines<br />

Hanoi: 94 Tran Quoc Toan<br />

Tel: 942 0848<br />

HCM City: 116 Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

Tel: 3832 0320<br />

www.vietnamair.com.vn<br />

The domestic route map is extensive,<br />

with several flights daily between major<br />

and less touristed cities throughout<br />

Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout<br />

Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow,<br />

Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San<br />

Francisco.<br />

CON DAO<br />

ATC Hotel<br />

16B Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 666<br />

Rustic little 4-room, family-run guesthouse<br />

in converted French administration<br />

building. Rooms are simple, with exposed<br />

bicycles, steam room and sauna.<br />

Rates are subject to a 5 percent<br />

service charge and 10 percent<br />

tax and a surcharge of $50 ++ per<br />

night is applicable from September<br />

1 to 4. Call 58 3522 222 or visit<br />

www.sixsenses.com/Evason-Ana-<br />

Mandara-Nha-Trang/index.php.<br />

Victoria Hoi An Resort<br />

Through September 30 the Victoria<br />

Hoi An Resort is offering two special<br />

summer promotions. The first:<br />

stay three consecutive nights and<br />

receive one free night for single<br />

bookings and the second: pay USD<br />

$110 ++ per night and receive one<br />

night stay in a superior room and<br />

daily breakfast for two people.<br />

Call 0510 3927 040 or visit www.<br />

victoriahotels-asia.com.<br />

Princess D’Annam Resort & Spa<br />

Until October 31 the Princess<br />

D’Annam Resort & Spa, located<br />

in Binh Thuan District, will offer a<br />

rafters inside and balconies outside. Bungalow<br />

accommodation is also available.<br />

Con Dao Resort<br />

8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949<br />

www.condaoresort.com<br />

Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven<br />

villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise<br />

facilities include restaurant, bar,<br />

beach-view swimming pool, tennis court<br />

and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities<br />

and tours.<br />

Saigon Con Dao Resort<br />

18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155<br />

www.saigoncondaoresort.com<br />

Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s<br />

82-room hotel has a restaurant,<br />

swimming pool, tennis court and health<br />

club with sauna. Another 30 villas are<br />

available in the adjacent sister hotel, a<br />

renovated colonial-era administration<br />

building. Tours organized by hotel.<br />

DALAT<br />

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa<br />

Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888<br />

www.anamandara-resort.com<br />

Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17<br />

restored early 20th-century villas and<br />

65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La<br />

Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of<br />

treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant<br />

serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.<br />

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and<br />

cooking classes in organic garden.<br />

Blue Moon Resort & Spa<br />

4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888<br />

www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn<br />

An attractive 65-room, country-style<br />

resort with extensive gardens for strolling<br />

or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant<br />

serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise<br />

bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and<br />

indoor heated pool.<br />

Mercure Dalat<br />

7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777<br />

www.mercure.com<br />

Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this<br />

144-room resort pairs French colonial<br />

architecture with modern amenities. Cafe<br />

De Le Poste serves French home-style,<br />

international and Vietnamese cuisine.<br />

Facilities include tennis court and sauna<br />

Sofitel Dalat Palace<br />

12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444<br />

www.accorhotels-asia.com<br />

Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s<br />

and retains the period’s aesthetic. It<br />

encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a<br />

gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar<br />

and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged,<br />

and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and<br />

billiards on premise.<br />

activities<br />

Phat Tire Ventures<br />

73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422<br />

www.phattireventures.com<br />

Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking,<br />

mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking<br />

and canyoning in the highlands surrounding<br />

Dalat. Also operates mixed trip<br />

adventure packages and ropes course<br />

set among pine forest with 100+ metre<br />

Flying Fox zip line.<br />

Dalat Easy Rider Tours<br />

70 Phan Dinh Phung<br />

dalateasyriders@yahoo.com<br />

www.dalat-easyrider.com<br />

Ride pillion with English-, French- or<br />

German-speaking tour guides on motorbike<br />

adventures that start in Dalat and<br />

snake through mountains, jungles and<br />

deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21<br />

days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi<br />

An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels<br />

and entrance fees included.<br />

HANOI<br />

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi<br />

1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888<br />

www.intercontinental.com<br />

Located on the waterfront with contemporary<br />

Vietnamese design, restaurants,<br />

business services, fitness centre including<br />

exercise classes and pool.<br />

Getaway Package. For USD $733<br />

guests will receive two nights in the<br />

Mandarin Suite (suitable for single<br />

or double occupancy); a welcome<br />

drink, cold towel and bottle of<br />

sparkling wine on arrival; a Vietnamese<br />

or Western three-course<br />

set dinner; one-hour Vietnamese<br />

massage and in-room Wi-Fi Internet<br />

access. The rate is subject to<br />

5 percent service charge and 10<br />

percent government tax. Call 62<br />

3682 222 or visit www.princessannam.com.<br />

Ana Mandara Resort<br />

Through October 31 the Ana<br />

Mandara Resort in Dalat is offering<br />

extra bonus nights. Stay five nights<br />

and pay for just four; stay seven<br />

and pay for five; stay 12 and pay<br />

for nine and stay 14 and pay for<br />

10. Each deal includes a 50-minute<br />

Vietnamese body scrub for two.<br />

Call 63 555 888 or visit www.anamandararesortdalat.com.<br />

Hanoi Hilton Opera<br />

1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem<br />

Tel: 04 3933 0500<br />

www.hilton.com<br />

Housed in a colonial-style building that<br />

complements the adjacent Opera House,<br />

this luxury hotel features modern amenities,<br />

business services, outdoor pool and<br />

fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties<br />

are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon<br />

does Japanese and pan-Asian.<br />

Melia Hanoi Hotel<br />

44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343<br />

www.meliahanoi.com<br />

Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable<br />

guestrooms elegantly decorated,<br />

complete with a host of modern amenities.<br />

Dining includes Asian cuisine at El<br />

Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava<br />

Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar.<br />

Mercure Hanoi La Gare<br />

94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem<br />

Tel: 04 3944 7766<br />

www.accorhotels.com<br />

Situated in the Old Quarter with 102<br />

bright, spacious and modern rooms,<br />

Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves<br />

Vietnamese and international cuisine.<br />

Nikko Hotel<br />

84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535<br />

www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn<br />

Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms,<br />

elegant furnishings, international fine dining<br />

from Europe, China and Japan.<br />

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi<br />

K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho<br />

Tel: 04 3719 9000<br />

www.starwoodhotels.com<br />

“Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious<br />

guest rooms with panoramic views,<br />

fitness centre, international restaurant<br />

and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.<br />

Sofitel Metropole<br />

15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem<br />

Tel: 04 3826 6919<br />

www.sofitel.com<br />

Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel<br />

with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving<br />

French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus<br />

Italian steak house.<br />

HO CHI MINH CITY<br />

Caravelle Hotel<br />

19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999<br />

www.caravellehotel.com<br />

One of the city’s most prestigious<br />

venues. Features a casino, Reflections<br />

Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon<br />

Saigon Bar.<br />

Equatorial<br />

242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777<br />

www.equatorial.com/hcm<br />

On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333<br />

rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant<br />

and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up<br />

bar), gym.<br />

InterContinental Asiana Saigon<br />

Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3520 9999<br />

saigon@interconti.com<br />

www.intercontinental.com/saigon<br />

305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling<br />

windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/<br />

banquet facilities, spa/health club and<br />

lounge with panoramic view.<br />

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon<br />

253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan<br />

Tel: 3844 9222<br />

www.moevenpick-saigon.com<br />

251-room Swiss chain hotel with<br />

Nishimura Japanese and Lotus Court<br />

Chinese restaurant, Sundeck poolside<br />

bar, Qi Spa, conference/banquet facilities.<br />

New World Hotel<br />

76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888<br />

www.newworldsaigon.com<br />

Located in the city centre, with gym,<br />

outdoor pool, tennis court, event space<br />

and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.<br />

Park Hyatt<br />

2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234<br />

www.saigon.park.hyatt.com<br />

Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21<br />

suites, lobby lounge with live music,<br />

Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining<br />

at Square One.<br />

Renaissance Riverside<br />

8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 0033<br />

www.renaissancehotels.com<br />

349 rooms/suites with panoramic views<br />

over Saigon River. Conference/banquet<br />

facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two<br />

restaurants.<br />

Sheraton<br />

88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828<br />

www.sheraton.com/saigon<br />

Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23<br />

bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant,<br />

fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd<br />

floor.<br />

Sofitel Saigon Plaza<br />

17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555<br />

www.sofitel.com/2077<br />

One of the city’s top hotels with in-room<br />

Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international<br />

cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms,<br />

outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.<br />

Thao Dien Village<br />

195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 2222<br />

www.thaodienvillage.com<br />

Colonial-style boutique hotel and spa<br />

with fine dining on the banks of the<br />

Saigon River in expat enclave.<br />

Windsor Plaza<br />

18 An Duong Vuong, D5<br />

Tel: 3833 6688<br />

services@windsorplazahotel.com<br />

www.windsorplazahotel.com<br />

Located in a main shopping hub. Four<br />

restaurants, modern discotheque,<br />

conference centre, casino, health club,<br />

shopping centre, supermarket, Chinese<br />

restaurant.<br />

activities<br />

Saigon Scooter Centre<br />

25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District<br />

Tel: 4848 7816<br />

www.saigonscootercentre.com<br />

One-stop rental service with a wide selection<br />

of scooters/motorbikes available<br />

for around town travel or long trips<br />

Vietnam Vespa Adventures<br />

169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao<br />

Tel: 3920 3897<br />

www.vietnamvespaadventures.com<br />

Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.<br />

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to<br />

Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on<br />

classic Vespas.<br />

HOI AN & DANANG<br />

Cua Dai Hotel<br />

544 Cua Dai Tel: 0510 3862 231<br />

www.cuadaihotel-hoian.com<br />

Open and airy rooms are tastefully decorated<br />

and overlook the garden and pool.<br />

Located roughly between Old Town and<br />

Cua Dai Beach. Bicycle rental arranged.<br />

Green Field Hotel<br />

423 Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 863 484<br />

www.greenfieldhotel.com<br />

Mid-range hotel with simple but spacious<br />

rooms overlooking the garden and pool.<br />

Rates start below US $20 per night.<br />

Located 400 metres from the Old Town.<br />

Le Domaine de Tam Hai Resort<br />

Tel: 0510 3545105<br />

www.domainedetamhai.com<br />

Occupying an island close to Hoi An, the<br />

resort features 12 villas, a private beach,<br />

and two restaurants serving French and<br />

Vietnamese cuisine.<br />

Life Resort Hoi An<br />

1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An<br />

Tel: 0510 3914 555<br />

www.life-resorts.com<br />

Within walking distance of Hoi An.<br />

Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering<br />

all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two<br />

bars and an outdoor pool.<br />

Nam Hai<br />

Tel: 0510 3940 000<br />

www.ghmhotel.com<br />

Luxury resort accommodation from<br />

single villas to sumptuous five-room<br />

dwellings with private pools. Facilities<br />

include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront<br />

swimming pools; library; and tennis,<br />

basketball and badminton courts.<br />

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa<br />

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040<br />

www.victoriahotels-asia.com<br />

Set on its own stretch of beach with<br />

105 rooms spread through a traditional<br />

fishing village design of small “streets”<br />

and ponds.<br />

activities<br />

Hoi An Motorbike Adventures<br />

Tel: 0918 230 653<br />

www.motorbiketours-hoian.com<br />

Two-wheeled tours of the Central<br />

Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey<br />

Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk<br />

dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic<br />

motorbikes. Customers can drive or be<br />

driven on half- to five-day trips.<br />

Mango Cruise<br />

info@mangorooms.com<br />

Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango<br />

Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a<br />

cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete<br />

with a meal from a menu created by Duc<br />

himself.<br />

Phat Tire Ventures<br />

619 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0510 391 1700<br />

www.phattireventures.com<br />

Offers rappelling and rock climbing at<br />

Marble Mountains, as well as walking<br />

and mountain biking excursions, from<br />

two-hour countryside trips to two-day<br />

cycling trips to Hue. Also does cultural<br />

and historical tours and car trips to My<br />

Son Holy Land.<br />

Vietnam Sailing<br />

88 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel: 0918 255 521<br />

www.vietnamsailing.com<br />

Foreign-operated company operates<br />

chartered coach or private tours to<br />

Cham Islands aboard a Corsair Sprint<br />

750 Trimaran. One-day cruises or twoday<br />

excursions with beach camping by<br />

campfire are available.<br />

HUE<br />

Celadon Palace Hue<br />

105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666<br />

www.celadonpalacehue.com<br />

Grand building inspired by Indochine<br />

Nobel House with panoramic views, international<br />

restaurant, lounge/bars, pool,<br />

ballroom and wedding planning.<br />

Imperial Hue<br />

57 Dang Dung Tel: 054 3522 478<br />

www.imperial-hotel.com.vn<br />

Opulent high-rise hotel with panoramic<br />

views of the city and Ngu Binh Mountain.<br />

Facilities include swimming pool, gym,<br />

Royal spa, Prince Club casino and business<br />

centre.<br />

La Residence<br />

5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475<br />

www.la-residence-hue.com<br />

Former governor’s residence on the<br />

banks of the Perfume River is now home<br />

to a boutique resort where art deco<br />

meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant<br />

serves local and international dishes.<br />

Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool,<br />

tennis court and fleet of bicycles.<br />

Mercure Hue Gerbera<br />

38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688<br />

www.mercure.com<br />

Overlooking the Perfume River, this<br />

centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary<br />

rooms. Local Hue cuisine and<br />

international fare served at Le Bordeaux,<br />

and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in<br />

the ground-floor Lobby Bar.<br />

Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa<br />

130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461<br />

www.pilgrimagevillage.com<br />

Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and<br />

villa accommodation draws on natural<br />

environment and local culture. Features<br />

Vedana spa, two restaurants serving<br />

Vietnamese & Western food and imported<br />

wines and three bar/lounges.<br />

NHA TRANG<br />

Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara<br />

Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa<br />

Tel: 058 3728 222<br />

www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara<br />

An island hideaway accessible only by<br />

boat, 58 private pool villas, international<br />

and local restaurants, wedding services,<br />

water sports and scuba diving.<br />

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang<br />

Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang<br />

Tel: 058 3522 222<br />

www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara<br />

Beachside resort set in 26,000 square<br />

metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest<br />

villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.<br />

Novotel Nha Trang<br />

50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900<br />

www.novotel-nhatrang.com<br />

Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with<br />

seaviews in this modern hotel located<br />

in the city centre. The Square serves<br />

international cuisine in a dining room<br />

overlooking the bay.<br />

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa<br />

26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh<br />

Hoa<br />

Tel: 58 388 0000<br />

www.sheraton.com/nhatrang<br />

Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms,<br />

six restaurants and bars, club lounge,<br />

infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga<br />

studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure<br />

Club and (connected at) Link@<br />

Sheraton.<br />

Sunrise Beach Resort<br />

12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang<br />

Tel: 058 3820 999<br />

www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com<br />

Private beach resort equipped with gym,<br />

fitness centre, outdoor pool and water<br />

sports.<br />

PHAN THIET<br />

Full Moon<br />

98A Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

Tel: 062 3847 008<br />

fullmoon@windsurf-vietnam.com<br />

Resort set in a private garden with<br />

lovingly decorated bedrooms and<br />

terracotta-tiled bathrooms. The grounds<br />

include a good Vietnamese restaurant,<br />

pool and kitesurfing school.<br />

L’Anmien Beach Resort<br />

Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward<br />

Tel: 062 3741 888<br />

www.lanmienresort.com<br />

Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped<br />

rooms, business centre, spa, fitness<br />

centre and outdoor pool.<br />

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa<br />

Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan<br />

Nam, Binh Thuan<br />

Tel: 062 3682 222<br />

www.princessannam.com<br />

Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive<br />

villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants<br />

and 1,800 square metres spa<br />

complex.<br />

The Sailing Club<br />

24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne,<br />

Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440<br />

64 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 65


www.sailingclubvietnam.com<br />

Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious<br />

rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and<br />

day spa.<br />

Shades Apartment<br />

Khu 1, Ham Tien Tel: 062 3743 237<br />

www.shadesmuine.com<br />

Design-led boutique hotel that uses<br />

minimal materials and draws on natural<br />

textures to achieve a sense of timelessness.<br />

Serviced apartments are soundproof<br />

with blackout curtains. Pool and<br />

beachside veranda outside.<br />

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa<br />

Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000<br />

www.victoriahotels-asia.com<br />

Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows,<br />

natural spa experiences among<br />

other great activities on offer at the resort.<br />

activities<br />

C2Sky Kitesurfing<br />

Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

Tel: 0916655241<br />

www.c2skykitecenter.com<br />

Operates two schools roughly 500m<br />

apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors.<br />

Offers a half dozen course types, as well<br />

as instructor training. Equipment rental<br />

and repair.<br />

Forester Spa & Mini Golf<br />

65 Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

Tel: 062 3743 447<br />

www.forestrestaurant.com<br />

Terraced nine-hole miniature golf course<br />

with distinctly Vietnamese terrain: rice<br />

paddies, palm trees, stilt homes and a<br />

fish pond.<br />

Jibes Beach Club<br />

84-90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

Tel: 062 3847 008<br />

www.windsurf-vietnam.com<br />

IKO-licensed kitesurfing centre offers<br />

highly structured kitesurfing classes<br />

taught by experienced watersportsmen.<br />

Also offer windsurfing lessons and retails<br />

in watersports equipment (bodyboards,<br />

kayaks, surfboards, windsurfs).<br />

Mui Ne Beach.net<br />

www.muinebeach.net<br />

Informative website run by local writer<br />

Adam Bray covering news, events, community/environmental<br />

issues and more in<br />

Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. Also issues safety<br />

advisories regarding crime and tour bus<br />

accidents.<br />

Mui Ne Cooking School<br />

Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen<br />

Quang Tel: 062 383 0755<br />

Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang<br />

Market and focus on the provincial cuisine<br />

of Binh Thuan, like crepes with beef or<br />

seafood and seafood salad.<br />

Surfpoint<br />

217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

www.surfpoint-vietnam.com<br />

Offers private and group kiteboarding<br />

courses and equipment rental (from<br />

$40-50/hr). Also runs group and private<br />

surfing lessons, as well as kayaking trips<br />

to Song Quao Lake.<br />

WindChimes School<br />

Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh<br />

Chieu<br />

www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com<br />

Surf school situated on 235m of beach<br />

offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing<br />

classes in multiple languages taught<br />

by IKO-certified instructors. Equipment<br />

rented and trips organised. Satellite<br />

school at Bamboo Village Resort.<br />

PHU QUOC<br />

La Veranda<br />

Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach<br />

Tel: 077 3982 888<br />

www.laverandaresort.com<br />

Set amid tropical gardens along a beach.<br />

Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill,<br />

Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.<br />

Mango Bay<br />

Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc<br />

Tel: 0903 382 207<br />

www.mangobayphuquoc.com<br />

Low-cost seaside resort with ecological<br />

outlook promotes nature activities, forest<br />

walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood<br />

restaurant. No TV or telephone.<br />

SAPA<br />

Victoria Sapa Resort<br />

Sapa District, Lao Cai Province<br />

Tel: 020 0871 522<br />

www.victoriahotels-asia.com<br />

Mountain chalet perched over the village<br />

wth cosy but modern guestrooms<br />

overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van<br />

restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and<br />

Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.<br />

Connection from Hanoi by private train.<br />

SCUBA DIVING<br />

Note: <strong>AsiaLIFE</strong> only lists dive centres<br />

recognized by international dive training<br />

programs, such as the Professional Association<br />

of Dive Instructors (PADI) and<br />

Scuba Schools International (SSI). We<br />

strongly advise against diving with unaccredited<br />

dive centres in Vietnam.<br />

Rainbow Divers<br />

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 6825<br />

www.divevietnam.com<br />

Diving tours and career/instructor<br />

development offered by Vietnam’s first<br />

PADI centre. established in the mid-90s.<br />

All courses can be started at the state-ofthe-art<br />

dive centre in An Phu, from beginner<br />

pool work and theory to divemaster<br />

and instructor certification. Operates dive<br />

centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi<br />

An and Phu Quoc.<br />

Octopus Diving<br />

62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang<br />

058 826 528<br />

www.divenhatrang.com<br />

PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang<br />

and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co.,<br />

with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi<br />

An. Offers a range of services, including<br />

children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses<br />

in specialised techniques and divemaster<br />

certification.<br />

TRAVEL AGENTS<br />

Buffalo Tours<br />

Suite 601, Satra House, 58 Dong Khoi<br />

D1 Tel: 3827 9170<br />

www.buffalotours.com<br />

Tailor-made itineraries, community-based<br />

tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips,<br />

golfing and premium trips offered by locally<br />

run and well-respected travel agent.<br />

Exotissimo<br />

HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1<br />

Tel: 3827 2911<br />

infosgn@exotissimo.com<br />

HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St,<br />

Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150<br />

infohanoi@exotissimo.com<br />

www.exotissimo.com<br />

French-owned agency specializing in<br />

flight bookings, package holidays and a<br />

range of well-run cultural and historical<br />

tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.<br />

iViVu<br />

www.ivivu.com<br />

Offering the traditional services of a travel<br />

agent – airline tickets, tours, packages<br />

and hotels - as well as tips and up-todate<br />

travel news on Vietnam.<br />

Trails of Indochina<br />

10/8 Phan Dinh Giot, Tan Binh<br />

Tel: 3844 1005<br />

www.trailsofindochina.com<br />

Specialists in custom-made tours offering<br />

cultural and adventurous experiences<br />

throughout the region. Exclusive<br />

resources and locations.<br />

66 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 67


listings<br />

food &<br />

drink<br />

BAR RESTAURANTS<br />

Ala Mezon<br />

10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447<br />

www.alamezon.vn<br />

Colourful four-storey venue serves fusion<br />

French-Japanese cuisine, as well as<br />

cocktails and wine by the glass. Space<br />

spans a restaurant, lounge and main<br />

bar and spacious, airy rooftop. Open 5<br />

pm to late.<br />

Alibi<br />

11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240<br />

Hip without being showy, this versatile<br />

venue has a pleasant front porch, stand<br />

up bar and comfortable lounge seating<br />

with bright, warm décor and great tunes.<br />

Drinks list is extensive and the food<br />

menu boasts French-style mains.<br />

Bread & Butter<br />

40/26 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3836 8452<br />

Lunch menu of American classics<br />

(California burritos, po boy sandwiches),<br />

Brit pub dinner (bangers & mash, fish &<br />

chips) and Sunday evening roast. Serves<br />

Huda Beer from Hue. Closed 2:30 pm to<br />

5 pm and Mondays.<br />

Bernie's Bar & Grill<br />

19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 2684<br />

Serves a solid menu of certified Angus<br />

and imported Aussie steaks, fresh<br />

pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and<br />

mains in an old school steak house<br />

setting. Drink menu includes smoothies,<br />

cocktails, premium wines and spirits and<br />

Saigon's largest martini. <br />

Buddha Bar<br />

7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080<br />

An Phu institution serves up tasty meals<br />

and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment.<br />

Plenty of room to relax inside<br />

or out, plus a pool table on premise. <br />

K Cafe<br />

28 Do Quang Dau, D1 Tel: 3913 4673<br />

www.kcafevietnam.com<br />

This down-to-earth bistro-bar is a haven<br />

for French-speaking emigrés looking for<br />

an alternative in the backpackers’ area.<br />

Prop up the bar with a beer or Ricard,<br />

or tuck into the tasty Gallic fare. Good<br />

atmosphere for conversation. <br />

La Habana<br />

6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180<br />

www.lahabana-saigon.com<br />

This charming little place has seating<br />

indoors and outdoors, upstairs and<br />

downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.<br />

Relaxed environment with frequent live<br />

music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare<br />

including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising<br />

three plates. Open late daily.<br />

Le Pub<br />

175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1<br />

www.lepub.org<br />

One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite<br />

watering holes, Le Pub also has a good<br />

menu of well-executed pub grub and<br />

international favourites. Hearty breakfast<br />

is available all day and specials are<br />

offered daily.<br />

Mogambos<br />

50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311<br />

This restaurant has been around since<br />

the mid-1990s, which offers an insight<br />

into its enduring quality. Specializes in<br />

American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers<br />

and salads served in a pleasant<br />

atmosphere. <br />

O’Brien’s<br />

74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198<br />

A large Celtic-style pub popular with<br />

media types that has an interior done in<br />

brickwork and wood, and an upstairs<br />

dining area. Draught beer is happy<br />

hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great<br />

pizzas.<br />

Pasha Bar & Restaurant<br />

25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77<br />

www.pasha.com.vn<br />

Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant<br />

located in heart of HCMC serves halal<br />

and high quality food with ingredients<br />

imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore,<br />

Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France.<br />

Long happy hour half price by glass.<br />

Various shisha flavours.<br />

Peaches: The Curry Pub<br />

Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung,<br />

D7 Tel: 5410 0999<br />

Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam,<br />

Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore<br />

and Indonesia with a focus on healthy<br />

preparation and fresh produce.<br />

Phatty’s<br />

46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 0705<br />

www.phattysbar.com<br />

Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s<br />

sports bar has five widescreen<br />

TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots<br />

of pub grub and beer for fans looking to<br />

take in a game or two.<br />

Qing<br />

110 Pasteur, D1<br />

www.qing.com.vn<br />

Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le<br />

Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/<br />

South American fusion dishes and a few<br />

delectable deserts. Variety of good wines<br />

by the glass or bottle.<br />

Sheridan’s Irish House<br />

17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823<br />

0793<br />

feast broaden your palate with promotions around town<br />

Yu Chu<br />

The InterContinental Asiana’s signature<br />

Chinese restaurant, Yu Chu, will offer a<br />

tempting set lunch through September<br />

including a Shanghai dumpling portion,<br />

choice of noodle dish, dessert of the<br />

day and tea for 180,000 VND ++ per<br />

person. Yu Chu is located on the first<br />

floor of the InterContinental Asiana and<br />

is open daily from 11.30 am to 2.30 am.<br />

Call 3520 9999 or visit www.intercontinental.com/saigon.<br />

Pasha Bar & Restaurant<br />

Enjoy a three-course set lunch, including<br />

coffee or tea, from 11 am to 3 pm<br />

for just USD $7.50 at Turkish restaurant<br />

Pasha. Also, on Tuesday kids eat free<br />

from a selection of pizza or pasta, coke<br />

or ice cream. Pasha is located at 27<br />

Dong Du, D1.<br />

Restaurant 19<br />

To celebrate the 65th Vietnamese<br />

National Day on September 2, the<br />

Caravelle Hotel’s Restaurant 19 will<br />

prepare a large selection of carving<br />

stations and cooked-to-order fresh<br />

seafood for 930,000 VND ++ per person.<br />

The price includes one glass of Mumm<br />

Champagne and unlimited margaritas,<br />

martinis and house Italian and Spanish<br />

wine. Call 3823 4999 or visit www.<br />

caravellehotel.com.<br />

Lobby Lounge<br />

From September 6 to 12 the Caravelle<br />

Hotel’s Lobby Lounge will serve Pain<br />

Perdu Brioche—French toast made with<br />

bread soaked in cinnamon, eggs milk<br />

and sugar—for 118,000 VND ++ per<br />

person. Many toppings are available,<br />

including warm cherry stew and macadamia<br />

nut icecream; sautéed apples<br />

and vanilla bean anglaise; and mango<br />

sherbet. Call 3823 4999 or visit www.<br />

caravellehotel.com.<br />

Kabin Chinese Restaurant<br />

Through September 30, chef Yeung Loi<br />

Ming will prepare Peking duck at the<br />

Kabin Chinese Restaurant located on<br />

the first level of the Renaissance Hotel.<br />

A whole duck costs 350,000 VND while<br />

a half duck is 199,000 VND. Kabin is<br />

open for lunch from noon to 2.30 pm<br />

and from 6 to 10 pm for dinner. Call<br />

3822 0033 or visit www.renaissancesaigon.com.<br />

Atrium Café<br />

The Legend Hotel’s Atrium Café has<br />

opened a juice bar. For 60,000 VND per<br />

glass the staff can prepare a healthy<br />

concoction from its selection of fresh<br />

fruits and vegetables, including mango,<br />

pineapple, pear, pomelo, orange, apple,<br />

passionfruit, watermelon, celery, carrot,<br />

tomato, cucumber, bitter melon and<br />

capsicum. Call 3823 3333.<br />

Basilico<br />

Each Saturday in September, Basilico<br />

will serve up an Italian feast including<br />

boscadola soup, spaghetti bolognaise<br />

and much more, including free flow<br />

of Prosecco for 500,00 VND ++ per<br />

person.<br />

Saigon Saigon Bar<br />

Enjoy Burger Night on the rooftop at<br />

the Caravelle Hotel’s Saigon Saigon Bar<br />

from September 13 to 26. Choose from<br />

the classic beef burger to the fisherman’s<br />

choice (tiger prawn and king<br />

crab), or the vegetarian with tomato and<br />

buffalo mozzarella with crisp garden<br />

greens, onion rings and basic pesto<br />

from 212,000 VND ++ per person. Call<br />

3823 4999 or visit www.caravellehotel.<br />

com.<br />

Shang Palace Restaurant<br />

Through September 30 the Norfolk<br />

Mansion’s Shang Palace Restaurant<br />

will serve up Oriental favourites as part<br />

of its Famous Chinese Food Promotion.<br />

Available for USD $5 to $15 ++ per<br />

dish are Shanghai-style braised pork<br />

ribs with Chinese wine, Chao-Zhoustyle<br />

pan-fried eggs with oyster, Hang<br />

Zhou-style deep-fried grouper fillet with<br />

pine nuts in sweet and sour sauce, plus<br />

many more. Call 3823 2221, email reservation@shangpalace.com.vn<br />

or visit<br />

www.shangpalace.com.vn.<br />

68 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 69


imbibe<br />

"Champagne" on the Cheap<br />

By Beth Young<br />

France may be famous for<br />

its expensive champagne,<br />

produced exclusively in the<br />

region it’s named for, but Italy<br />

takes the award for delivering<br />

considerably cheaper sparkling<br />

substitutes.<br />

Meet Prosecco, a sweet,<br />

refreshing and bubbly drop. It<br />

may not have the same complexity<br />

as its posher cousin,<br />

but it fulfils all requirements<br />

otherwise, according to Billy<br />

Dela, sales and marketing<br />

manager at Bacchus Corner.<br />

Traditionally an off-dry wine<br />

(slightly sweet) that goes<br />

through secondary fermentation<br />

in stainless steel tanks,<br />

Prosecco is now being<br />

fermented inside the bottle<br />

by some vintners, in exactly<br />

the same way champagne is<br />

aged.<br />

Pointing at the Zonic<br />

Prosecco he stocks for<br />

400,000 VND, Dela says<br />

it’s a fantastic alternative to<br />

champagne. And with similar<br />

properties and the requisite<br />

fizz, it would take a discerning<br />

drinker to tell the difference.<br />

What’s more, the cork pops<br />

off with the same effect.<br />

The price tag is a bonus,<br />

too. “Almost for the same<br />

price you can have two<br />

Prosecco,” Dela says, noting<br />

that champagne begins at<br />

650,000 or 700,000 VND for<br />

the most basic brands. For<br />

a light indulgence, a 175ml<br />

bottle is also available for just<br />

90,000 VND.<br />

It’s multi-purpose, too.<br />

While few tend to mix wine,<br />

Prosecco makes a perfect<br />

base for cocktails. Most notably,<br />

Prosecco pairs with peach<br />

puree to make the Bellini, a<br />

cocktail born in Venice and<br />

enjoyed throughout Italy. Dela<br />

compares the combinations<br />

spawned from Prosecco mixtures<br />

to sangria or calimucho<br />

(cheap red wine and coke).<br />

“When you drink [them] you<br />

feel the heat of the wine,” he<br />

says, adding that the soda<br />

helps the alcohol to go down<br />

twice as easy. Adding a<br />

splash of Cassis de Dijon—a<br />

berry-flavoured liqueur—to a<br />

glass of Prosecco works just<br />

as well, giving the wine that<br />

extra pep.<br />

Another Italian contender<br />

is Moscato D’Asti, a sweet,<br />

sparkling white that’s proving<br />

popular with Vietnamese<br />

women. Low in alcohol (only 5<br />

percent), the Moscato D’Asti<br />

is light and zesty with melon,<br />

nectarine and fresh blossom<br />

tones.<br />

It’s not for everybody<br />

though and neither is it Dela’s<br />

first choice. However, he notes<br />

for novice wine drinkers, it’s a<br />

fantastic starting point. Better<br />

yet, the Moscato D’Asti,<br />

which retails for 300,000 VND<br />

(Bacchus Corner stocks the<br />

Castello de Poggio variety) is<br />

a steal compared to the Chateau<br />

Guiras, a similar French<br />

champagne that sells for 3<br />

million VND. Best teamed with<br />

dessert, it’s a delicious and<br />

crisp after-dinner treat that<br />

won’t break the bank.<br />

Cheap and refreshing,<br />

both Prosecco and Moscato<br />

D’Asti are ideal antidotes to<br />

HCM City’s oppressive heat.<br />

“You drink [them] and you feel<br />

‘aaaah,’” Dela exhales. “Everybody<br />

loves bubbles.”<br />

Banh Nam<br />

street gourmet<br />

www.sheridansbarvn.com<br />

Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor,<br />

a pleasant atmosphere and regular<br />

live music. Wide range of classic pub<br />

grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic<br />

breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.<br />

Storm P Bar & Restaurant<br />

5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738<br />

www.stormp.vn<br />

This friendly hangout is a favourite with<br />

both the Scandinavian community and<br />

English-speaking expats. Offers Danish<br />

cuisine to go with the drinks. <br />

The Tavern<br />

R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7<br />

Tel: 5410 3900<br />

Boasts good international food, a pool<br />

table, dartboards and sports coverage<br />

on large screens. Outdoor seating on<br />

mutiple levels. Second floor sports<br />

lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. <br />

Vasco’s Bar<br />

74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824<br />

2888<br />

Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets<br />

packed to capacity on weekends. Open<br />

Monday to Saturday with live music on<br />

Fridays. Food menu by chef with over<br />

10 years experience at La Camargue.<br />

Also does excellent pizza. <br />

ZanZBar<br />

41 Dong Du, D1<br />

Funky, modern interiors and varied<br />

international breakfast, lunch and dinner<br />

cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails,<br />

gourmet espresso coffee, and happy<br />

hours make ZanZBar a great after-work<br />

spot. Open late.<br />

Banh nam is a Hue specialty.<br />

It is a soft thin cake made<br />

of rice flour and topped with<br />

ground shrimp and green<br />

beans. It is wrapped in a<br />

banana leaf (la chuoi), which<br />

is folded to make a rectangular-shaped<br />

parcel. Banh nam<br />

can be dipped in fish sauce<br />

(nuoc cham), a slightly spicy<br />

and sweet mixture with hints<br />

of garlic.<br />

Banh nam should be eaten<br />

warm—that’s when it is tastiest.<br />

And a hint: after unwrapping<br />

your banh nam be sure<br />

to keep the leaf on hand. It<br />

will help absorb some of the<br />

treat’s greasiness. Prior to<br />

eating pour the dipping sauce<br />

over it and when it hits your<br />

mouth don’t chew too fast.<br />

Enjoy the feeling of the rice<br />

flour dissolving: greasy and<br />

fragrant! Banh nam can be<br />

found at most Vietnamese<br />

restaurants for about 20,000<br />

VND per portion. Stephy Thai<br />

CAFES<br />

Annam Cafe<br />

16-18 Hai Ba Trung<br />

Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking<br />

Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of<br />

gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.<br />

Bobby Brewer’s<br />

45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090<br />

70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821<br />

8100<br />

86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299<br />

1990<br />

www.bobbybrewers.com<br />

This is an attractive fast-food style<br />

coffee shop with friendly staff and good<br />

lattes. All the coffee is roasted on the<br />

premises and there are comfortable<br />

couches and travellers aplenty making it<br />

a chilled place to hang out. <br />

Bull’s Cafe<br />

113C Bui Vien Street, D1<br />

Tel: 3836 1925<br />

www.bullcafe.com.vn<br />

MotoGP-themed lounge serving up coffee,<br />

smoothies and cafe house special,<br />

fruit cocktail.<br />

Cafe Terrace<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

This funky café is frequented by trendy<br />

types attracted by the leather lounges,<br />

outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic<br />

fruit concotions.<br />

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf<br />

12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1<br />

94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3<br />

Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5<br />

Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi,<br />

D1<br />

International café chain with a wide<br />

variety of coffees and teas, as well as<br />

light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted<br />

coffee beans and tins of whole<br />

leaf tea. <br />

Illy Café<br />

111A Pasteur, D1 Tel: 2220 2388<br />

Fax: 2220 2389<br />

Grand View, Shop SA1-1, SB2-1<br />

Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3292<br />

Fax: 5412 3293<br />

Serves authentic Italian coffee.<br />

Jubarcalypse<br />

35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930<br />

Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground<br />

design. Playing jazz music, it’s<br />

the perfect place to re-energize with<br />

a refreshing selection of juices and<br />

snacks.<br />

Loaves and Fishes<br />

5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2<br />

Tel: 3547 0577<br />

Coffee house on a side street near<br />

Riverside Apartments serves up drinks<br />

and serves the full line of Western-style<br />

baked goods from Harvest Baking.<br />

Mojo<br />

88 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

www.sheratonsaigon.com<br />

A top-end cafe with an attractive interior,<br />

outdoor terrace at street level and<br />

comfortable lounges upstairs. Good<br />

business coffee or lunch venue.<br />

Nirvana<br />

14Bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1<br />

Tel: 3910 0745<br />

Pleasant retro-styled cafe with outdoor<br />

water features and welcome modern<br />

touches like free Wi-Fi. Live music at<br />

night.<br />

Paris Deli<br />

35 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 6127<br />

Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc<br />

Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179<br />

Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with<br />

French-style furnishings. Offering tasty<br />

French and international dishes with a<br />

range of lunchtime specials at reasonable<br />

prices.<br />

Une Journee A Paris<br />

234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723<br />

15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2<br />

Tel: 0128 608 9551<br />

A Parisian-style café that serve French<br />

cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant<br />

chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne.<br />

Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to<br />

Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.<br />

X Cafe<br />

58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142<br />

212 A2 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925<br />

9307<br />

Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated<br />

in the style of an Alpine chalet.<br />

Popular with local makers and shakers,<br />

has a great open-plan upstairs area and<br />

two outdoor terraces. Regular live music<br />

and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai<br />

location includes children’s playground.<br />

Catering available.<br />

Zenta<br />

41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3<br />

A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with<br />

several rooms resembling airport<br />

departure lounges. Customers, though,<br />

tend to gravitate to the more attractive<br />

outdoor terrace with its pond and<br />

waterfall-style water features.<br />

CHINESE<br />

Chop Chop Chinese Delivery<br />

Tel: 3826 9135<br />

SMS: 09 3836 3030<br />

www.chopchopvietnam.com<br />

American-style Chinese delivery service<br />

brings classics like General Tso's<br />

chicken, moo shu pork and beef with<br />

broccoli to your door. Open seven days,<br />

11 am to 10 pm. <br />

Dragon Court<br />

11-13 Lam Son Square, D1<br />

Tel: 3827 2566<br />

Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery<br />

gets packed with hungry locals who<br />

savour generous portions of tasty dim<br />

sum. All the Chinese staples are here.<br />

Expect a good feed for under 100,000<br />

VND per person.<br />

Dynasty Restaurant<br />

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 8888<br />

Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant<br />

reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s<br />

imperial days. Delicacies clock<br />

in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall<br />

between 80,000 to 180,000 VND.<br />

Huy Long Vien<br />

99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799<br />

www.huylongvien.com<br />

A magnificent Chinese restaurant with<br />

a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese<br />

lanterns and a labyrinth of water works.<br />

Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND,<br />

while the a la carte menu runs higher<br />

with Chinese specialties such as Peking<br />

duck for 400,000 VND.<br />

Kabin<br />

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton<br />

Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033<br />

Elegant dining space with beautiful<br />

decor and great views over the river<br />

offers extensive lunch and dinner menus<br />

featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese<br />

and Szechuan dishes and an assortment<br />

of dim sum at lunchtime.<br />

Li Bai<br />

Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

Tel: 3827 2828<br />

Imperial-styled restaurant named after<br />

a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch<br />

time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.<br />

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going<br />

from 100,000 VND.<br />

Ming Dynasty<br />

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung<br />

Tel: 5411 5555<br />

Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers<br />

100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes<br />

prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.<br />

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs<br />

USD $39 per person and includes free<br />

flow of wine.<br />

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant<br />

Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong<br />

Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688<br />

Beautiful wood paneling, colourful<br />

hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral<br />

gallery make for a relaxing dining experience<br />

at the Windsor. Feast on roasted<br />

Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed<br />

king prawns. Be sure to check out<br />

monthly specials.<br />

Ocean Palace<br />

2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822<br />

Both traditional and trendy Chinese<br />

dishes are prepared by chef from Hong<br />

Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat<br />

dining room in this restaurant opposite<br />

the zoo. Intimate private rooms and<br />

larger party rooms available for booking.<br />

Shang Palace Restaurant<br />

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu<br />

Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221<br />

www.shangpalace.com.vn<br />

An upscale Chinese restaurant with a<br />

spacious and welcoming atmosphere.<br />

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong<br />

Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both<br />

dim sum, a la carte and set menus,<br />

regularly changed by the creative chefs.<br />

Thao Li Restaurant<br />

Grand View C, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu<br />

My Hung Tel: 5412 5999<br />

Daily Dim Sum Buffet costs USD $9.90<br />

per person, starting from 11 am. The<br />

daily A La Carte Dinner Buffet costs<br />

$14.90 per person; includes more than<br />

55 dishes.<br />

Truyen Ky<br />

261B Dao Duy Tu, D10<br />

Small homestyle Chinese restaurant<br />

specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of<br />

70 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 71


ecipes<br />

Mee Goreng Mamak with<br />

Grilled Scallops<br />

serves 2 | prep time: 10 minutes<br />

Electrolux designers are inspired by your passions.<br />

Elevate a simple noodle stir-fry by using one luxurious<br />

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humble mee mamak.<br />

4 cloves garlic, crushed<br />

1 onion, sliced<br />

1 packet yellow noodles<br />

2 eggs<br />

8 scallops<br />

2 cups assorted vegetables (choy sam, tomatoes, cabbage)<br />

2 pieces fried tofu, cubed<br />

2 tbs cooking oil<br />

Seasonings: 1 tbs dark soy sauce, 2 tbs light soy sauce, 1 tbs pounded<br />

dried chillies, 2 tbs tomato sauce<br />

ONE<br />

Heat oil in wok and fry onions and garlic. Once fragrant add in<br />

seasonings.<br />

TWO<br />

Throw in noodles, tofu and vegetables. Mix well. Stir in<br />

Electrolux<br />

eggs just before switching Design off the heat.<br />

Department<br />

Pernilla Johansson<br />

THREE<br />

Grill scallops lightly (1 min each side) and toss with noodles.<br />

Your passion for serving only the freshest food is what inspires us to design better<br />

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Founded in Sweden<br />

Recipes provided by<br />

southeastern China, including tofu and<br />

chilis stuffed with fish paste.<br />

Yu Chu<br />

InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner<br />

of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3520 9099<br />

dine@icasianasaigon.com<br />

Specializing in authentic Cantonese and<br />

Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef<br />

prepares dishes including handmade<br />

noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.<br />

Wide selection of live seafood. Five<br />

interactive kitchens.<br />

DESSERT PARLOURS<br />

Bo Gia (The Godfather)<br />

29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1<br />

20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1<br />

299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh<br />

Does brisk lunchtime trade with its<br />

selection of more than 25 ice cream<br />

favours and Vietnamese noodle and<br />

rice dishes.<br />

Ciao Cafe<br />

40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1<br />

With a number of branches downtown<br />

(21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran<br />

Cao Van, among others), this popular<br />

cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks<br />

and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream<br />

specials and serves crepes, sodas and<br />

shakes.<br />

Fanny Ice Cream<br />

29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 1633<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton,<br />

D1<br />

www.fanny.com.vn<br />

Tranquil open-terraced heaven for icecream<br />

lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit,<br />

ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut,<br />

caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and<br />

mango sorbet are standouts). All you<br />

can eat first Friday of the month. <br />

Ministry of Food<br />

30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton,<br />

D1<br />

Two-floor dessert house specializing in<br />

Italian and Japanese treats serving a<br />

wide array of ice cream flavours using<br />

milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also<br />

serves sandwiches and bento boxes.<br />

New Zealand Natural<br />

3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store<br />

39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan<br />

1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843<br />

Truong Son, Tan Binh<br />

www.newzealandnatural.com<br />

Serves flavours ranging from chocolate<br />

ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry<br />

dream by the scoop.<br />

Yogen Fruz<br />

118 Pasteur, D1<br />

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton,<br />

D1<br />

Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien,<br />

Phu My Hung, D7<br />

www.yogenfruz.com<br />

Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in<br />

mod-meets-IKEA decor and serves<br />

no-fat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with<br />

fresh fruits, as well as soft serve and<br />

smoothies.<br />

FRENCH<br />

Annamite French Restaurant<br />

21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3<br />

Tel: 6277 8332<br />

annamite-restaurant.com<br />

The new VN restaurant area of D3<br />

opens a classic French dinning option,<br />

led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere<br />

with a classic touch . French<br />

favourites such as escargot in garlic<br />

butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck<br />

in port wine, poached river sole with saffron<br />

sauce and classic flambé crepes.<br />

Au Manoir de Khai<br />

251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394<br />

This top-end contemporary French<br />

restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial<br />

villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish<br />

interior. Full of private rooms and opulent<br />

lounge areas, this unique eatery is the<br />

brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru<br />

Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up<br />

dishes such as lobster consomme, panfried<br />

duck liver, salmon medallions with<br />

Moet and escalope de foie gras.<br />

Jardin Delice<br />

4 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4722<br />

Located in a beautiful French villa with a<br />

swimming pool and spa open to diners,<br />

Jardin Delice specializes in high-end<br />

French cuisine. Hip setting provides a<br />

mish-mash of colourful glass plates,<br />

chairs and massive paintings.<br />

La Bordeaux<br />

F7-F8, D2 Road, P25, Binh Thanh<br />

Tel: 3899 9831<br />

www.restaurant-lebordeaux.com.vn<br />

French fine dining in an elegant, intimate<br />

loft space with dark wood and linendraped<br />

tables. Expect simple, classic<br />

dishes prepared to perfection. Rotating<br />

seasonal menu.<br />

La Brasserie<br />

61 Hung Gia 2, Phu My Hung, D7<br />

Tel: 5410 4317<br />

www.labrasserie-hcmc.com<br />

Contemporary French restaurant and<br />

wine bar with outdoor seating and<br />

wine cellar stocked with more than 650<br />

wines. Features classic French fare like<br />

sliced raw beef Carpaccio with Parmesan<br />

cheese and grilled beef fillet served<br />

with French fries and vegetable gratin.<br />

La Camargue<br />

191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888<br />

Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine<br />

dining for more than 10 years. Modern<br />

French and Italian cuisine is served in<br />

a colonial-style alfresco dining space.<br />

An extensive wine list allows diners to<br />

choose the perfect pairing.<br />

La Fourchette<br />

9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143<br />

Rustic downtown restaurant, with a<br />

good longstanding reputation for serving<br />

good traditional French fare at reasonable<br />

prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and<br />

from 7 pm to 10 pm.<br />

La Nicoise<br />

42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613<br />

Small French-style bistro, with pretty<br />

mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers<br />

a good range of teas, coffees and<br />

espresso-based drinks. Lunch menu<br />

changes daily, but always encompasses<br />

traditional French food. Open until 10<br />

pm.<br />

Le Jardin<br />

31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465<br />

This delightful restaurant in a picturesque<br />

garden setting is open for lunch<br />

and dinner and serves excellent French<br />

food at reasonable prices. Main courses<br />

cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of<br />

house wine costs 50,000 VND.<br />

L’en Tête<br />

139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091<br />

This stylish bistro and gallery serves<br />

up a<br />

large selection of French fare representing<br />

an excellent selection of classic<br />

French fish and meat dishes, as well<br />

as international cuisine. Live music on<br />

Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays<br />

starting at 8 pm.<br />

Olivier Restaurant<br />

Level 2, Sofitel Saigon Plaza,<br />

17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555<br />

Imaginative French cuisine cooked up<br />

in a blend of classic and contemporary.<br />

Executive Chef Martin Becquart<br />

prepares a solid but creative selection of<br />

French favourites with an extensive range<br />

of fish and meat dishes.<br />

Sesame<br />

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh<br />

Tel: 0989 765 472<br />

A self-styled hospitality school for disadvantaged<br />

children, Sesame gives practical<br />

experience to its students through its<br />

operational restaurant. Serving a mixture<br />

of French and Vietnamese cuisine.<br />

Ty Coz<br />

178/4 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 2457<br />

Homely and attractive venue specializes<br />

in classic French cuisine. Does excellent<br />

three-course business set meals for and<br />

sells carefully selected seafood.<br />

INDIAN<br />

Ashoka<br />

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1372<br />

33 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 Tel: 744 4144<br />

S9-1 lo R13 - KP Hung Vuong 2, D7<br />

Tel: 5410 1989<br />

Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular<br />

and enduring Indian restaurants with a<br />

reputation for good food and service at a<br />

reasonable price.<br />

Ganesh<br />

15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 3017<br />

Casual dining with takeaway available,<br />

Ganesh serves up both North and South<br />

Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably<br />

priced, with vegetarian curries from<br />

40,000 VND and chicken dishes from<br />

64,000 VND. <br />

Mumtaz<br />

226 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3837 1767<br />

Reasonably priced north and south<br />

Indian fare in a clean, light and spacious<br />

setting. Vegetarian curries go for around<br />

30,000 VND while meat dishes cost<br />

between 45,000 VND and 55,000 VND<br />

each. Excellent kebabs. <br />

Saigon Indian<br />

73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671<br />

Popular venue with an enormous menu.<br />

Serves both southern and northern<br />

Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa<br />

and idly snacks, plus a wide range of<br />

vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch<br />

menu. Cater service is available. <br />

Tandoor<br />

74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839<br />

www.tandoorvietnam.com<br />

Part of a chain of restaurants covering<br />

Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a<br />

large selection of standard northern Indian<br />

dishes, including a good vegetarian<br />

selection. Excellent cheap set lunches<br />

and reasonable prices all around. Will<br />

organize catering for events. <br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

Al Fresco’s<br />

21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427<br />

27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317<br />

D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093<br />

400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840<br />

www.alfrescosgroup.com<br />

Theme restaurant boasting a range of<br />

Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style<br />

BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty<br />

Australian ribs coupled with a good<br />

atmosphere and helpful staff. Good<br />

lunch menu. <br />

Amigo Grill<br />

55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437<br />

Outstanding steaks made with Australian,<br />

U.S. and Argentine beef, served<br />

in a cosy, family-friendly environment<br />

with large tables and banquette seating.<br />

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood<br />

are also on the menu. Open 11 am to<br />

11 pm.<br />

Au Lac Do Brazil<br />

238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157<br />

36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7<br />

Tel: 5410 5566<br />

www.aulacdobrazil.com<br />

A Brazilian barbecue restaurant that<br />

takes meat seriously. The mixed grills<br />

and rodizio are fantastic and served<br />

in generous portions. No meat-eater<br />

should miss the churrasco: 12 cuts of<br />

meat carved at your table, plus unlimited<br />

salad.<br />

Au Parc<br />

23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772<br />

Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing<br />

from Moroccan and French styles and<br />

popular during lunchtime with expats.<br />

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North<br />

African food. The salad menu is a favourite,<br />

and a great range of lush smoothies<br />

and juices are on offer. <br />

Black Cat<br />

13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055<br />

628 An Binh, An Phu, D2<br />

Tel: 3898 9837<br />

Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant<br />

serving up an excellent selection of<br />

Western and Vietnamese fare and an<br />

extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.<br />

The District 2 location also features<br />

a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and<br />

the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue<br />

menu. <br />

BoatHouse<br />

40 Lily Road, APSC Compound,<br />

36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790<br />

Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded<br />

tables spread across outdoor deck<br />

and small indoor dining room. Serves<br />

remarkably fresh and inspired dishes<br />

made with choice local and imported<br />

ingredients—favourites include the sirloin<br />

burger and pan-fried fish and chips.<br />

BoatHouse Cafe<br />

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182<br />

BoatHouse’s sister eatery for take-away<br />

and delivery service. Offers coffee,<br />

breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies,<br />

pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers<br />

and fish and chips. <br />

Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge<br />

11 Ngo Duc Khe, D1 Tel: 3825 7781<br />

www.byblos.com.vn<br />

Downtown restaurant serves a menu<br />

of Lebanese starters, salads and mains<br />

served in a casual dining room. Catering<br />

available. Events and weekly belly dance<br />

show hosted. <br />

Cafe Evita<br />

230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2<br />

Tel: 3512 3888<br />

Academic-themed menu at this outlet<br />

near the British International School<br />

includes meals like The Principal, a<br />

triple-decker club with fries and salad<br />

and burgers that range from First to<br />

Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired<br />

pizza oven. <br />

Casablanca<br />

58/9 Thanh Thai, D10<br />

Tel: 3862 8859<br />

Moroccan cuisine from merguez to<br />

pastilla served in an intimate, attractive<br />

dining room. Owner/chef trained at<br />

Morocco's finest hotels and caters<br />

to guests' every need. Reservations<br />

required.<br />

Cepage<br />

Lancaster Building 22 Le Thanh Ton,<br />

D1 Tel: 3823 8321, 3823 8733<br />

www.cepage.biz<br />

One of the city’s premier venues, Cepage<br />

delivers an up-market bar, wine lounge<br />

and restaurant in one sleek package.<br />

Sells several wines by the glass with<br />

several hundred bottles to choose from.<br />

Mixes some of the city’s best cocktails.<br />

Best in Italian Cuisine.<br />

Extensive Wine Collection.<br />

79 Hai Ba Trung D1<br />

Tel: 08-382 38998<br />

www.pomodoro-vietnam.com<br />

72 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 73


Cham Charm<br />

3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung<br />

Tel: 5410 9999<br />

The highlight of this upscale, beautifully<br />

decorated Asian restaurant is a special<br />

seafood buffet that includes Portuguese<br />

oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi,<br />

sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine<br />

prawns, American Angus beef<br />

and much more. Errazuriz wines are also<br />

included in the buffet. Part of the Khai<br />

Silk chain.<br />

The Deck<br />

38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632<br />

Serves upmarket takes on regional<br />

specialties made with fresh local and<br />

imported products. Well-designed,<br />

minimalist dining space and bar on the<br />

river are a serious draw.<br />

The Elbow Room<br />

52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327<br />

elbowroom52@yahoo.com<br />

American-style bistro offering a wide<br />

range of appetisers, soups, salads,<br />

sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus<br />

an extensive wine menu. Open daily<br />

7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served<br />

all day.<br />

Gartenstadt<br />

34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623<br />

Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in<br />

town to offer German food with specialities<br />

such as pork knuckle and authentic<br />

German sausages prepared fresh each<br />

day. Also offers imported German<br />

draught beer.<br />

Gia Dining Room<br />

5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 9399<br />

www.giadiningroom.com<br />

Serves a mid-range slate of mainly<br />

grilled Western mains, single-entree<br />

Asian dishes and wide range of soups,<br />

salads, appetisers. Three intimate<br />

dining spaces pair modern design with<br />

Indochina-era sophistication. Extensive<br />

list of Old and New World wines.<br />

Good Eats<br />

NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai<br />

Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672<br />

Easteran and Western dishes are low in<br />

saturated fat and made from all-natural<br />

ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs<br />

and spices accompany meals. Even the<br />

French fries are healthy. <br />

Halal@Saigon<br />

31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823<br />

www.halalsaigon.com<br />

Serving up a range of Vietnamese and<br />

Malaysian dishes prepared according to<br />

halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho<br />

and roti chennai and seafood favourites<br />

such as shrimp, squid and mussels.<br />

Hard Rock Cafe<br />

InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner<br />

of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3520 9099<br />

www.hardrockcafe.vn<br />

Popular theme restaurant/live music<br />

venue serves large portions of pub fare<br />

including salads, fajitas and burgers.<br />

Rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia adorns the<br />

walls in classic Hard Rock-style and the<br />

rock shop sells themed shot glasses,<br />

T-shirts and jewellery. <br />

Hideaway Cafe<br />

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3<br />

Tel: 3822 4222<br />

www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com<br />

Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant<br />

and cafe serving an eclectic range<br />

of tasty European-style food. Dine al<br />

fresco in the charming courtyard. <br />

Jaspa’s<br />

33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926<br />

www.alfrescosgroup.com<br />

Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant<br />

specializes in Australian-influenced<br />

international fusion cuisine. Full range of<br />

drinks including Australian and French<br />

wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly<br />

Spam Cham networking event. <br />

Juice<br />

49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900<br />

Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant<br />

serving salads, sandwiches, quiches<br />

and meat pies with French fries and<br />

potato salad. Also has daily lunch and<br />

dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and<br />

juices, as well as novelty drinks like<br />

wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball<br />

cocktail. <br />

Kita Coffee House<br />

39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300<br />

Four-level restaurant serving a wide<br />

menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches,<br />

soups and appetizers for lunch<br />

and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee<br />

and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright<br />

ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old<br />

World second floor bar and rooftop dining.<br />

Also in Vincom Center. <br />

Market 39<br />

InterContinental Asiana Saigon<br />

Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and<br />

Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099<br />

dine@icasianasaigon.com<br />

Seven interactive live kitchens offering<br />

French, Vietnamese and Southeast<br />

Asian cuisines, including a bakery,<br />

French patisseries, pancakes, tossed<br />

salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried<br />

items, noodles and pasta dishes.<br />

Mekong Merchant<br />

23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713<br />

Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle<br />

brasserie has brought modern<br />

international cuisine to suburban An<br />

Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.<br />

Weekly specials and seafood flown in<br />

from Phu Quoc. <br />

New York Dessert Cafe (nydc)<br />

Restaurant and Cafe<br />

NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1<br />

Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh,<br />

D11<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton,<br />

D1<br />

The Crescent. Phu My Hung, 107 Ton<br />

Dat Tien, D7<br />

New York themed menu offering a wide<br />

selection of Western dishes and desserts,<br />

including a variety of cheesecakes.<br />

New York Steakhouse & Winery<br />

25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 7373<br />

New-york@steakhouse.com.vn<br />

www.steakhouse.com.vn<br />

Chic dining venue designed in a classic<br />

New York City Art Deco. Open every<br />

day until late. Specializes in certified<br />

U.S. Black Angus steak, and features<br />

a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are<br />

invited to bring their own wine on BYOB<br />

Mondays.<br />

Orientica<br />

Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong,<br />

D5 Tel: 3839 7777<br />

www.equatorial.com/hcm<br />

Top-end seafood and grill restaurant<br />

boasting modern decor. Good service<br />

and excellent food presentation make<br />

this a pleasant alternative to the downtown<br />

scene.<br />

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega<br />

97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024<br />

This tapas restaurant and bar serves<br />

up superb Spanish fare crafted from<br />

authentic imported ingredients. The<br />

exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive<br />

and Sangria is half price during happy<br />

hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day<br />

Wednesday.<br />

Pinocchio Restaurant<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton,<br />

D1<br />

Com Tam<br />

street gourmet<br />

Broken rice (com tam) is one<br />

of the most popular dishes in<br />

Southern Vietnam, especially<br />

in HCM City. As its name<br />

suggests, broken rice is<br />

made of rice that is broken.<br />

Traditionally it is a breakfast<br />

dish, but now many<br />

Vietnamese enjoy it for both<br />

lunch and dinner.<br />

Com tam needs sweet<br />

fish sauce (nuoc mam ngot).<br />

It really makes the dish.<br />

However, other accompaniments—grilled<br />

pork chop,<br />

Doner Kebab, Shish Kebab, Homemade<br />

Kofte, Homemade Turkish Pide & Pizza’s<br />

omelet, shredded pork<br />

and skin (bi) and Chinese<br />

sausage—are entirely up to<br />

the diner. Com tam appears<br />

everywhere from roadside<br />

inns to luxurious restaurants<br />

and an average plate goes<br />

for 20,000 VND. The price<br />

depends on how much rice<br />

you want and what delicacies<br />

it is topped with. Com<br />

tam is a uniquely Vietnamese<br />

dish and one that you can’t<br />

leave HCM City without trying.<br />

Stephy Thai<br />

Tel: 3993 9199<br />

Email: info@pinocchio.vn<br />

A quiet place in the Vincom Center<br />

to indulge in pizza, pasta, salad and<br />

international and Vietnamese mains for a<br />

reasonable price.<br />

The Refinery<br />

74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509<br />

Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside,<br />

informal indoor restaurant section<br />

and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern<br />

European. The menu spans a price<br />

range to suit most budgets.<br />

Reflections<br />

Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square,<br />

D1 Tel: 3823 4999<br />

Contemporary fine dining that combines<br />

Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean<br />

cuisine in an ambiance of understated<br />

elegance and European style. Special<br />

culinary events include guest chefs from<br />

Michelin-star establishments around the<br />

world. Private rooms are available.<br />

Riverside Cafe<br />

Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc<br />

Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033<br />

International venue opening onto the<br />

bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast,<br />

lunch and dinner, and particularly<br />

noted for its sumptuous buffet selection<br />

which combines Asian, Western and<br />

Vietnamese cuisine.<br />

Sandals<br />

93 Hai Ba Trung, D1<br />

www.sailingclubvietnam.com<br />

Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space<br />

with blonde wood accents and cosy<br />

seating throughout. Kitchen turns out<br />

elegant and inspired fare at surprising<br />

value for money: meal-sized salads; filling<br />

burgers, wraps and sandwiches.<br />

Signature Restaurant<br />

Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong<br />

SHISHA BAR & TURKISH FUSION CUISINE<br />

call 0907129430 / 08 629 136 77<br />

25 Dong Du, D1, HCMC<br />

WWW.PASHA.COM.VN<br />

Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828<br />

Fine dining with panoramic views over<br />

central HCM City. Food is stunningly<br />

presented, top-end European cuisine<br />

with Asian influences cooked by German<br />

chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or<br />

five-course set menu available.<br />

Skewers<br />

9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798<br />

www.skewers-restaurant.com<br />

Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where<br />

subtle colours and exposed brickwork<br />

combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh,<br />

falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly<br />

rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip<br />

combos, soups and pastas. <br />

Square One<br />

Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square,<br />

D1 Tel: 3520 2359<br />

Specializing in high-end Western and<br />

Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves<br />

charcoal-grilled meats and seafood,<br />

as well as steamed and wok-cooked<br />

Vietnamese fare.<br />

Texas BarBQ<br />

15/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

The flavour and feel of the Wild Wild<br />

West is evoked by both the food and<br />

décor at this perennially popular eatery.<br />

Quarter rack ribs are a mainstay. . <br />

VillaFB<br />

79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 3822<br />

www.villafb.com<br />

Refurbished villa with a spacious designled<br />

indoor dining room and an elegant<br />

enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle<br />

dishes for breakfast and lunch before<br />

switching to a menu of Eastern and<br />

Western fine dining for dinner.<br />

Warda<br />

71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822<br />

Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery<br />

Our Ingredients Are Imported<br />

74 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 75


swathed in oranges and reds serving<br />

Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan<br />

chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are<br />

the main draw, but you can also puff on<br />

hookas post-meal.<br />

Xu Saigon<br />

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468<br />

www.xusaigon.com<br />

Inspired restaurant with an F&B director<br />

with a passion for mixing Vietnamese<br />

cooking with flavours and styles from<br />

around the world. Sleek but sparsely<br />

designed, the restaurant serves nouveau<br />

takes on Vietnamese cuisine.<br />

ITALIAN<br />

Basilico<br />

InterContinental Asiana Saigon,<br />

Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and<br />

Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099<br />

dine@icasianasaigon.com<br />

Contemporary and casual trattoria-style<br />

restaurant specializing in authentic Italian<br />

dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired<br />

pizza oven and a wide selection of<br />

Italian wines.<br />

Centro Caffe & Ristorante<br />

11-13 Lam Son Square, D1<br />

31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1<br />

6 Thai Van Lung, D1<br />

This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam.<br />

Offers modern and traditional Italian<br />

cuisine in three central locations with<br />

lunchtime set menus and regular wine<br />

tasting evenings. Good spot for business<br />

coffee meetings.<br />

Da Vinci’s Pizza<br />

001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4<br />

Tel: 3943 4982<br />

Wide variety of brick oven pizza, calzones,<br />

spaghetti, subs and sandwiches.<br />

Pizzas come in medium and large sizes<br />

and pay homage to Italy with names like<br />

Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi. <br />

Good Morning Vietnam<br />

197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894<br />

Popular authentic Italian restaurant with<br />

additional outlets around the country.<br />

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and<br />

a range of Italian dishes. Good selection<br />

of Italian wines. <br />

La Hostaria<br />

17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080<br />

Rustic eatery specializing in top-end<br />

traditional cuisine from various regions<br />

in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND<br />

with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent<br />

pizza. <br />

freshest and finest ingredients around to<br />

produce some superb dishes.<br />

Pendalasco<br />

87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181<br />

One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants,<br />

Pendalaso serves a wide range if<br />

Italian favourites, as well as remarkably<br />

authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza. <br />

Pepperoni’s<br />

111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989<br />

Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant<br />

from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.<br />

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays<br />

and all-round large and tasty<br />

portions. <br />

Sarpino’s<br />

125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788<br />

Tasty American-style pan pizza in a<br />

pleasant and fresh Italian-themed<br />

environment. Four sizes available, from<br />

personal to extra large, with a large<br />

range of toppings. Also serves pasta,<br />

soups, wings and salads. <br />

Scoozi<br />

6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795<br />

Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with<br />

Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas<br />

prepared in a wood-fired oven. The<br />

delicious creations restore one’s faith in<br />

HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality<br />

pie. <br />

JAPANESE<br />

Dragon Hot Pot<br />

122-124 Ho Tung Mao, D1<br />

Tel: 3915 1001<br />

info@dragonhotpot.vn<br />

Japanese hot pot restaurant serving<br />

motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and<br />

lots of sake and shoju.<br />

K Cafe<br />

74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355<br />

Small, cosy and cheery, this café is<br />

noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls.<br />

Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The<br />

assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and<br />

beautifully presented, costs around USD<br />

$8. Leave some room for homemade<br />

yoghurt.<br />

Kuru Kuru Sushi<br />

129 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3824 3566<br />

Sushi restaurant with colour-coded<br />

menu and items served from a rotating<br />

conveyor belt. Helpful place mats in<br />

both English and Vietnamese break<br />

down prices and explain how to choose<br />

your food. Very affordable prices.<br />

dining menu along with a wonderful<br />

selection of sweets and offers possibly<br />

the most divine and delectable gelato in<br />

HCM City.<br />

Nishimura<br />

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen<br />

Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222<br />

Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi<br />

from a globetrotting chef with three<br />

decades’ experience. A wide range of<br />

cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions<br />

are also available. Set lunches cost<br />

about USD $15.<br />

Okinawa Yamaneko<br />

13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433<br />

www.yamaneko-vn.com<br />

Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving<br />

up a variety of Okinawa favourites like<br />

sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and<br />

goya champuru plus sushi and soba.<br />

Sakae Sushi<br />

Nowzone @ Royal Centre, Level 4<br />

235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3504<br />

0054<br />

Healthy, affordable and quick service<br />

kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi makes for a<br />

fun dining experience. Extensive menu<br />

also includes beef, chicken and vegetarian<br />

options.<br />

The Sushi Bar<br />

2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042<br />

3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618<br />

This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant<br />

serves over 40 varieties of sushi at<br />

reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar<br />

or in private rooms upstairs. Open until<br />

11.30 pm, delivery available on request.<br />

Popular with expats and locals alike. <br />

Zen<br />

20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782<br />

Located amid the sea of Japanese<br />

restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen<br />

offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.<br />

The yakitori station grills up fantastic<br />

steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled<br />

udon noodles are also a standout.<br />

KOREAN<br />

25 Si<br />

8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1<br />

Tel: 3824 6921<br />

Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.<br />

Winter and summer scene murals fill<br />

the walls of this dual level eatery. Large<br />

menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix<br />

of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu,<br />

as well as super spicy duruchigi.<br />

Hana<br />

8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588<br />

Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart<br />

of District 1. Contemporary decor with<br />

a private, yet open feel. Broad menu<br />

including cooked and raw fish and<br />

traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice<br />

and vegetables.<br />

Kim Bab Chun Gook<br />

R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung<br />

Tel: 6296 9057<br />

Korean boonshik/snack food eatery<br />

serving up a wide variety of light but<br />

substantial foods including dumplings,<br />

rameyon and fish cakes.<br />

Kumdo<br />

6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3<br />

Tel: 3824 3253<br />

Korean beef barbecue served in small,<br />

welcoming dining rooms with barbecues<br />

built into tables. Large selection of raw<br />

meat specialties.<br />

SOUTHEAST ASIAN<br />

Lac Thai<br />

71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506<br />

An elegant restaurant tucked in an<br />

alleyway and decorated with art-deco<br />

furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared<br />

by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less<br />

spicy than you’d find in Thailand. <br />

Little Manila<br />

S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7<br />

Tel: 5410 0812<br />

Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor<br />

and indoor seating located on a quiet<br />

street. Serves a range of dishes from the<br />

Philippines (pictured on menu for those<br />

unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.<br />

The Red Dot<br />

21 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 5123<br />

Aptly titled, this Singaporean restaurant<br />

serves decent chicken rice, char kway<br />

teow, chili crab, and a handful of Malaysian<br />

specialties. <br />

Sawasdee Saigon<br />

102 - 104 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3925 7777<br />

Authentic Thai cuisine in a warm, friendly<br />

atmosphere. <br />

Satay House<br />

35 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 1727<br />

Bright and rustic, this Malaysian-run<br />

place specializes in Halal food. Chicken<br />

and asam fish curries are must-tries. Its<br />

famous satays are equally delicious. <br />

Thai Express<br />

8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338<br />

www.thaiexpress.com.vn<br />

Modern restaurant with a massive menu<br />

of Thai specialties served in moderate<br />

proportions. The menu inludes chef’s<br />

recommendations and background on<br />

Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will<br />

test your tongue’s threshold.<br />

VEGETARIAN<br />

An Lac Chay<br />

175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1<br />

Tel: 3837 0760<br />

Apropos of the backpacker district, this<br />

little restaurant offers no frills and a vast<br />

menu. Though meat dishes are available,<br />

it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese<br />

and quirky “backpacker favourites.” <br />

Hoa Dang<br />

38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1<br />

Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet<br />

street that serves up nutritious dishes,<br />

including meatless versions of bun bo,<br />

pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving<br />

non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other<br />

sweets.<br />

Saigon Vegan<br />

378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473<br />

Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive<br />

menu of healthy food at moderate<br />

prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya<br />

chicken/beef, soups, banh bao and<br />

more. Also has a kids menu.<br />

Tib Chay<br />

11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460<br />

Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese<br />

vegetarian appetisers, salads,<br />

soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts<br />

Viet Chay<br />

339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3<br />

Tel: 3526 5862<br />

Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes<br />

in fake meat dishes. The attractive<br />

dining room is suffused with natural light.<br />

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem<br />

Pagoda.<br />

VIETNAMESE<br />

Cha Ca La Vong<br />

3 Ho Xuan Hung, D3 Tel: 3930 5674<br />

36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343<br />

Two HCM City ouposts of the legendary<br />

Hanoi original serve only one dish: the<br />

eponymous and delicious cha ca la<br />

vong, fish pan-fried at the table with<br />

turmeric and dill and served with cold<br />

noodles and peanuts.<br />

Opera<br />

Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam<br />

Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234<br />

Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed<br />

brick and glass. The space revolves<br />

around an island kitchen from which<br />

chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally<br />

trained chefs work with the<br />

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee<br />

Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72<br />

Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

30 Le Loi, D1<br />

Refined Japanese café specializing in<br />

unique desserts and food. Focusing<br />

on use of organic products, this casual<br />

eatery has a comprehensive Japanese<br />

LOUISIANE<br />

BREWHOUSE<br />

Beachside Nha Trang<br />

Asian & Western Cuisine<br />

Swimming Pool & Private Beach<br />

www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn<br />

111A Pasteur, D.1, HCMC<br />

Tel: (08) 22 202 388 Fax: (08) 22 202 389<br />

Grand View, Shop<br />

SA1-1, SB2-1 Nguyen Duc Canh Blvd, D.7, HCMC<br />

Tel: (08) 54 123 292 Fax: (08) 54 123 293<br />

76 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 77


where are you going tonight?<br />

41 Dong Du, D1, Tel 3822 7375<br />

Com Nieu<br />

19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288<br />

The house specialty, com nieu (smashed<br />

rice), comes with a shattered-crockery<br />

and flying-rice show at this well-known<br />

restaurant, prominently featured in<br />

Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An<br />

extensive and tasty selection of southern<br />

Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the<br />

menu.<br />

Hoa Tuc<br />

74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676<br />

This comfortable high-end restaurant<br />

serves traditional Vietnamese fare with<br />

a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to<br />

find your local favourites as you’ve never<br />

experienced them before. Beautifully<br />

plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at<br />

its best.<br />

Hoi An<br />

11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7694<br />

Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy<br />

of two sumptuously decorated colonial<br />

villas, a bamboo-clad walled courtyard<br />

and a menu spanning the three main<br />

regions of Vietnam. Specialities include<br />

abalone soup and a raw fish salad. Four<br />

VIP rooms.<br />

Lam Nuong Nam Bo<br />

285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10<br />

Tel: 3862 2569<br />

Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded<br />

among locals serves everything from<br />

beef, chicken and fish to porcupine,<br />

weasel and field mouse. Great destination<br />

for intrepid gastronomes. Has<br />

standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes<br />

too.<br />

Mandarine Restaurant<br />

11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783<br />

Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy<br />

of two sumptuously decorated colonial<br />

villas, an antique wooden stair and a<br />

menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.<br />

Traditional music performances are<br />

available for dinner.<br />

Marina<br />

172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

tel: 3930 2379<br />

www.ngocsuong.com.vn<br />

Swish seafood restaurant with al fresco<br />

and indoor seating and a vast menu of<br />

up-market Vietnamese dishes. Features<br />

10 set menus at varying price scales.<br />

Nam Phan<br />

34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636<br />

Well known at its previous corner<br />

location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan<br />

continues to serve modern Asian cuisine<br />

including asparagus and crab meat<br />

soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and<br />

grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set<br />

in a restored colonial villa, the interior is<br />

alive with reproductions of Cham-era<br />

bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen.<br />

Nghi Xuan<br />

5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699<br />

Located down an alley just past Hai<br />

Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open<br />

first-floor and upstairs dining rooms<br />

with dark wood furniture and carved<br />

woodwork. Serving Hue staples, crab<br />

and prawn spreads and an impressive<br />

array of wines and cocktails.<br />

Papaya<br />

68 Pham Viet Cham, Binh Thanh<br />

Tel: 6258 1508<br />

www.chi-nghia.com<br />

Hanoian classics mingle with new interpretations<br />

created by Chi Nghia, whose<br />

experience and dedication to clean,<br />

fresh ingredients set Papaya's menu<br />

apart. 10 am to 11 pm, 7 days.<br />

Ngon Restaurant<br />

160 Pasteur, D1<br />

The long lunchtime queues tell the story:<br />

good food at low prices. More a food<br />

court than a restaurant, this has become<br />

a major favourite for its airy decor combined<br />

with cheap and tasty noodle, rice<br />

and other standard dishes.<br />

Quan Nuong 3T Barbecue<br />

29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1<br />

A favourite with both locals and expats,<br />

this rooftop restaurant above the Temple<br />

Club offers an extensive menu of meat,<br />

seafood and vegetarian dishes. Try the<br />

beef wrapped around tasty melting<br />

cheese or deliciously fresh skewered<br />

prawns.<br />

Son Ha Garden<br />

147A Hai Ba Trung, D1<br />

Spacious and airy restaurant sculpted<br />

from bamboo with an open kitchen.<br />

Serves a range of affordable local favourites<br />

family style, as well as Vietnamese<br />

desserts including homemade yoghurt.<br />

Temple Club<br />

29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1<br />

Tel: 3829 9244<br />

This high-end restaurant attached to an<br />

elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its<br />

art deco atmosphere as much as for its<br />

food. Mains go from around VND80,000<br />

to VND150,000.<br />

Tib<br />

187 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 7242<br />

100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My<br />

Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6868<br />

www.tibrestaurant.com.vn<br />

Popular up-market dining spot serving<br />

Hue cuisine in an attactive dining room<br />

that draws on traditional architecture.<br />

Call for reservations.<br />

Tib Express<br />

162 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3<br />

Tel: 3822 5038<br />

Serves a large selection of Tib’s Huefood<br />

menu in a more casual dining<br />

rooom and at significantly lower prices.<br />

Specializes in bun bo Hue. <br />

Wrap & Roll<br />

62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030<br />

SA1–1, My Khanh 1,<br />

Nguyen Van Linh, D7<br />

Attractive downtown venue that brings<br />

street-style food into air-conditioned<br />

and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped<br />

appetisers such as the cha gio<br />

(spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with<br />

ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on<br />

sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. <br />

nightlife<br />

BARS & LOUNGES<br />

See bar restaurant listings for more<br />

popular watering holes.<br />

Acoustic Bar<br />

6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3<br />

Tel: 3930 2239<br />

A Volkswagen Bug tries to scale the wall<br />

outside this well-priced music venue<br />

popular with college-age Vietnamese<br />

and the occasional expat.<br />

Amber Room<br />

59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686<br />

info@theamberoom.com<br />

A true London meets New York lounge,<br />

with chilled out tunes during the day and<br />

more funky vibes at night. A pleasant<br />

meeting place for drinks and a bite to<br />

eat.<br />

Boston Sports Bar<br />

28/2 - 28/4 Bui Vien, D1<br />

Tel: 6656 6338/6656 6328<br />

Sports bar featuring North American<br />

food. Satellite TV, free pool and darts.<br />

Catering services and private room available<br />

for parties. Open 24 hours. <br />

Ciao Lounge<br />

2nd Floor, 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

Trendy and attractive lounge bar with a<br />

mixture of retro and modern decor and<br />

a pleasant atmosphere to boot. A great<br />

escape from central Saigon but quite<br />

touristy.<br />

Cranberry Café & Pub<br />

45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3914 0991<br />

Upmarket,quiet lounge great for private<br />

parties. Brickwork and cranberry-red<br />

chairs speak to the bar’s name, with a<br />

cocktail range and Tigers in blissfully<br />

frosted mugs.<br />

Level 23<br />

23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel<br />

88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828<br />

One of the best views of the city from<br />

this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.<br />

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap<br />

but the atmosphere is great with live<br />

music throughout the week and a live<br />

DJ every Monday.<br />

The Library<br />

InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner<br />

of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3520 9099<br />

dine@icasianasaigon.com<br />

Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of<br />

tea. The Library provides a welcoming<br />

atmosphere for those in search of calm,<br />

comfort and personalized service.<br />

M52 Bar<br />

52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726<br />

Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably<br />

priced drinks noted for packing<br />

a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van<br />

are never too busy to check on their<br />

patrons, and the busy bartenders are<br />

quick with a smile.<br />

Number Five Bar<br />

44 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 6300<br />

Number Five Bar is older than it looks,<br />

having formerly been located at 5 Ly<br />

Tu Trong. The bar attracts a regular<br />

clientele of established expats.<br />

Park Lounge<br />

Park Hyatt Hotel<br />

2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234<br />

Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs<br />

played every night by international musicians.<br />

The salubrious surroundings are<br />

matched by the range of the drinks, with<br />

vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per<br />

glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.<br />

Purple Jade<br />

InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner<br />

of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3520 9099<br />

Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences<br />

of contemporary design and opium<br />

dens. Hosts live music and serves<br />

special drinks, including Shaoxing and<br />

Maotai rice wines and an exclusive<br />

selection of luxury spirits.<br />

Q Bar<br />

Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1<br />

With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes,<br />

colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet<br />

lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a<br />

bar that has a reputation for being a<br />

place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace<br />

and late-night indoor opening.<br />

QD Bar & Lounge<br />

138 Ton That Dam, D1, Tel: 3821 5338<br />

Sophisticated lounge with New and<br />

Old World wines served by the bottle or<br />

glass, modern decor and floor-to-ceiling<br />

windows overlooking Ton That Thiep.<br />

Saigon Saigon Bar<br />

9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son<br />

Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999<br />

Popular bar usually packed out with<br />

tourists and business travellers searching<br />

for some delicious cocktails and a<br />

great view of the city skyline. Cuban<br />

band Warapo plays every night except<br />

Monday from 8.30 pm until late.<br />

Samsara Club<br />

131 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

A laid-back cosmopolitan drinking and<br />

dance venue with comfy lounge chairs<br />

around low-lying tables and an island<br />

bar bedecked in extravagant whitefeather<br />

decorations. Pink neon gives the<br />

joint a contemporary edge.<br />

T&R Tavern<br />

57 Do Quang Dau, D1<br />

Classic expat dive bar with pool table,<br />

darts and comfortable yet simple decor.<br />

Daily happy hour and sportsfans can<br />

catch games on the big screen.<br />

Vibe Billiards & Lounge<br />

102 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1<br />

Tel: 3925 2599<br />

Sleek bi-level lounge with Scandinavian<br />

design, Bansky-esque murals and<br />

top-notch billiards and snooker tables,<br />

paid for by the hour. Hosts league play,<br />

half-price Mondays, ladies’ nights and<br />

DJ events.<br />

Voodoo Lounge<br />

92 Ho Tung Mau, D1<br />

Voodoo paintings adorn the white walls<br />

at this small, attractive bar south of Sunwah<br />

Tower. A daily happy hour, plenty<br />

of stool space and a pair of dartboards<br />

make it a good place to grab a drink.<br />

Yoko<br />

22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, D3<br />

Tel: 3825 1901<br />

Compact and popular joint with nightly<br />

live music boasts a refreshingly eclectic<br />

range of Western styles, with most<br />

songs sung in English.<br />

BREWHOUSES<br />

Alderbrau<br />

98 Nguyen Du, D1<br />

Small brewhouse decorated with<br />

antique brewing miscellanea, with an<br />

enclosed garden for outdoor swilling<br />

the small range of house brews and<br />

bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up<br />

sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese<br />

dishes.<br />

Gammer Czech Beer<br />

107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619<br />

www.biatuoitiepvn.com<br />

Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall<br />

furnished with heavy wood and outfitted<br />

with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to<br />

sports. Dark and blonde beers are available,<br />

as well as a full menu of Vietnamese<br />

food from mussels to rabbit.<br />

Hoa Vien<br />

28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829<br />

0585<br />

www.hoavien.vn<br />

Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner<br />

beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast<br />

from the Czech Republic. There’s also<br />

a large food menu and imported Pilsner<br />

Urquell.<br />

Lion Brewery<br />

11C Lam Son Square, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 8514<br />

Microbrewery featuring traditional German<br />

brew technology and German fare<br />

like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot<br />

to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal<br />

and a whole lot of beer.<br />

NIGHTCLUBS<br />

Fuse Bar<br />

3A Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop<br />

music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a<br />

ladies night where women drink for<br />

free and two bottles of wine can be<br />

purchased for 2 million VND.<br />

Lush<br />

2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496<br />

A large and lavishly decorated bar and<br />

78 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 79


Where the game’s always on!<br />

28/4 Bui Vien Str. Pham Ngu Lao Ward, Dist 1.<br />

Phone: (08) 665 663 38 - (08) 665 663 28<br />

To find us, walk through the arch at<br />

74 Hai Ba Trung and discover our<br />

beautiful secluded courtyard.<br />

OPEN<br />

24/7<br />

Telephone<br />

3823 0509<br />

Open 7 Days<br />

club popular on weekends. Good DJs<br />

playing the latest in beat-based music<br />

and the city’s beautiful people add to<br />

the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with<br />

Western clubs in both ambience and<br />

drinks prices.<br />

Velvet Bar<br />

26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1<br />

Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both<br />

bottle service and bottle beer that isn’t<br />

prohibitively expensive. Circular center<br />

bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas<br />

and sofa seating line the walls.<br />

at home<br />

BAKERIES<br />

Crumbs<br />

54 Truong Dinh, D1 Tel: 3825 7199<br />

www.crumbs.com.vn<br />

info@crumbs.com.vn<br />

Eat-in bakery offering a wide range of<br />

muffins, whole-grain breads and pastries.<br />

Many of the breads are dairy-free,<br />

baked fresh daily with unbleached white<br />

flower, no added sugar.<br />

Harvest Baking<br />

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577<br />

harvestbaking@yahoo.com<br />

This authentic bakery offers a range<br />

of specialty baked goods for delivery.<br />

Offering bagels, scones, breads,<br />

desserts,cakes, tarts and more.<br />

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon<br />

rolls with cream cheese icing highly<br />

recommended.<br />

Pat A Chou<br />

65 Hai Ba Trung, D1<br />

188 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3<br />

25 Thao Dien, D2<br />

The home of the long and crusty<br />

baguette. Supplies many restaurants<br />

but also sells wholesale. The miniature<br />

patisseries such as crème brulée and<br />

cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens<br />

at 6.30 am.<br />

Schneider’s Finest<br />

27 Han Thuyen, D1<br />

Tel: 3829 1998<br />

www.schneiders-finest.com<br />

Traditional German bakery bakes 45<br />

different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes<br />

and a wide range of danishes,<br />

pastries and cakes. Catering available.<br />

Sesame Bakery<br />

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh<br />

Tel: 3518 0897<br />

Located in the premise of the Hospitality<br />

School of HCMC, Sesame<br />

Bakery provides practical experience<br />

to its students. Wide variety of French<br />

pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies at<br />

very competitive prices. Special order &<br />

delivery available.<br />

Tous Les Jours<br />

180 Hai Ba Trung, D3<br />

Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous<br />

Le Jours stocks a superb range of<br />

freshly baked good from sugary treats<br />

like pain au chocolat to superior quality<br />

baguettes and loafs.<br />

Voelker<br />

17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Tel: 7303 8799<br />

39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2<br />

Tel: 6296 0066<br />

Small bakery turns out sweet and salted<br />

pies and mousses in addition to baguettes<br />

and a range of Western sweets.<br />

CATERING<br />

Au Parc Catering Services<br />

23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772<br />

Catering services available every day<br />

of the year for birthday cakes, dinner<br />

parties, wine tastings and corporate<br />

events.<br />

For a custom-made quotation e-mail<br />

auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on<br />

0908 196261.<br />

Saigon Catering<br />

84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388<br />

Provide services of catering, banquets,<br />

event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries<br />

and cocktail parties. For a custommade<br />

quotation e-mail SaigonGG@<br />

gmail.com or call Huong on 0913<br />

981128.<br />

The Caterers<br />

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu<br />

Tel: 3816 2901<br />

sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn<br />

www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn<br />

Catering company offering extensive<br />

services from location sourcing, décor<br />

designing and food catering. All functions<br />

can be catered for, from low-key<br />

barbeques at home to full-blown weddings<br />

and parties.<br />

Xu Catering<br />

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1<br />

Tel: 3824 8468<br />

www.xusaigon.com<br />

From the brains behind Xu Restaurant<br />

and Lounge comes this new catering<br />

service, promising the highest standards<br />

in service. Everything from the<br />

menu to the comprehensive bar service<br />

and the staff is tailor-made to your<br />

specifications.<br />

COOKERY CLASSES<br />

Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes<br />

Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square,<br />

D1 Tel: 3823 4999<br />

Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for<br />

groups of up to 20 people. The classes<br />

include a visit to the market with the<br />

sous chef. Costs USD $45++ each for a<br />

minimum 10 people.<br />

80 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 81


Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc<br />

The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1<br />

Tel: 3825 8485<br />

i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com<br />

contact@saigoncookingclass.com<br />

Cooking classes available from Tuesday<br />

to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5<br />

pm. Students make an entire meal that<br />

includes traditional dishes like pho and<br />

cha gio, as well as more creative fare.<br />

Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English,<br />

Japanese or French on request.<br />

Cost is $45. Market visit with the chef<br />

on request.<br />

Vietnam Cookery Centre<br />

362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh<br />

Tel: 3512 1491<br />

Well-known Vietnamese cooking<br />

classes with half-day and more indepth<br />

eight-day courses. Students<br />

work in a comfortable kitchen area with<br />

their own stove and workspace. Eightday<br />

course costs USD $160.<br />

GROCERIES<br />

Annam Gourmet Market<br />

16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822<br />

9332<br />

41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630<br />

SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc<br />

Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64<br />

www.annam-gourmet.com<br />

Boutique grocer with wide selection of<br />

foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea<br />

and spices; and household products.<br />

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter,<br />

produce, dairy-frozen and baked<br />

goods on second floor. Cosy café<br />

serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.<br />

Au Parc<br />

23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772<br />

A fine deli counter displaying a wide selection<br />

of cheeses, roasted vegetables,<br />

dips and some tempting sweets. The<br />

shelves along the side wall also showcase<br />

a solid selection of dried goods<br />

and some imported condiments.<br />

Classic Fine Foods<br />

100 Xuan Thuy, D2, Tel: 3744 2717<br />

www.classicfinefoods.com<br />

Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale,<br />

but also takes orders for its range<br />

of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry<br />

and seafood from private clients.<br />

Future Sense<br />

284/9 Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu<br />

Nhuan<br />

Tel: 3844 6099<br />

Ice cream home delivery service featuring<br />

banana-on a stick, Ola premium<br />

ice cream and frozen yoghurt and I’sa<br />

ice cream, all produced with European<br />

technology and imported ingredients.<br />

Gastro Home Delicatessen<br />

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, D2<br />

Tel: 6281 9830<br />

Deli filled with fresh French-inspired<br />

delights ranging from salads to fish and<br />

vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes.<br />

Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.<br />

Grand-Place Chocolate<br />

1A Me Linh Square, Room C4, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 4068<br />

www.grandplacechocolate.com<br />

delivery@grandplacechocolate.com<br />

Belgian chocolate manufacturer offering<br />

high quality chocolate for professionals<br />

and chocolate lovers. Chocolate available<br />

in 1kg blocks or 2.5kg buttons.<br />

Free delivery.<br />

Kim Hai Butchery<br />

41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376<br />

Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb,<br />

veal and other meats sold at reasonable<br />

prices.<br />

Le Cochon D’Or<br />

32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856<br />

French-style charcuterie selling quality<br />

cold cuts, smoked sausage and a<br />

range of cheeses at very reasonable<br />

prices.<br />

Metro<br />

An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677<br />

www.metro.com.vn<br />

Warehouse wholesaler located just off<br />

the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the<br />

Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells<br />

bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables<br />

and meat, as well as paper products,<br />

cleaning supplies, housewares--basically<br />

everything.<br />

Organik<br />

11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841<br />

arlene@organikvn.com<br />

www.organikvn.com<br />

Online grocer based out of Dalat selling<br />

a range of organic vegetables and groceries,<br />

as well as imported all-natural<br />

products such as cereal, soymilk and<br />

tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu.<br />

Phuong Ha<br />

58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318<br />

A mini-supermarket that sells an<br />

extensive assortment of imported<br />

packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh<br />

fruit, vegetables and fine wines.<br />

Veggy’s<br />

29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526<br />

Sky Garden<br />

Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7<br />

Riverside Apartments<br />

53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2<br />

Popular expat market with a huge<br />

walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh<br />

fruit and vegetables, dairy products<br />

and a range of meats. Imported<br />

canned and dried foods, wines, beers,<br />

soft drinks, spirits and snacks also<br />

available.<br />

LIQUOR & WINE<br />

Bacchus Corner<br />

158D Pasteur, D1<br />

Reliable wine and liquor store owned<br />

by Tan Khoa Wines with a good range<br />

of spirits, whiskies, wines and more all<br />

at decent prices. English-speaking staff<br />

can help with selections.<br />

Connoisseur<br />

7 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 224 6324<br />

A decent range of wines from both old<br />

and new world vineyards lines the walls<br />

in this intimate store. Monthly offers on<br />

new arrivals are often a good deal. The<br />

staff are helpful, but little English.<br />

Red Apron<br />

22 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3823<br />

0021<br />

Large wine and spirits wholesaler,<br />

with 90,000 bottles stored in its five<br />

locations around the country. Sells wine<br />

from all around the world, particularly<br />

France, Chile, Italy and Australia. Exclusive<br />

distributor of such fine brands as<br />

Taittinger Champagne.<br />

Tapas Wine<br />

2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

Tel: 2201 0909<br />

www.tapaswines.com<br />

Home delivery service that specializes<br />

in Spanish wines. Check out the<br />

website for a full catalog of their wines,<br />

as well as reviews by brand.<br />

The Warehouse<br />

178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826<br />

924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261<br />

1525<br />

www.warehouse-asia.com<br />

One of the city’s premier wine distributors,<br />

The Warehouse is an aptly<br />

named, stylish wine store that stocks a<br />

full range of both New and Old World<br />

wines, sparkling wines, Champagne,<br />

spirits, imported beers and accessories.<br />

Provides advice and delivery<br />

service.<br />

listings<br />

culture<br />

CLASSES<br />

AngelsBrush by Vin<br />

Tel: 0983377710<br />

Shyevin@mac.com<br />

Oil painting course gives learners the<br />

opportunity to work from the different<br />

objects; explore different mediums,<br />

materials and techniques; and interpret<br />

line, tone and colour. Instructor works<br />

with students on individual basis.<br />

Creative Writing Classes<br />

Tel: 090 448 2957<br />

kate_orson@hotmail.com<br />

Writer Kate Orson teaches creative writing<br />

courses for fiction, non-fiction and<br />

travel writing. Beginners and experienced<br />

writers are welcome.<br />

Helene Kling Painting<br />

513 An Binh, Street 12, D2<br />

helene_kling@yahoo.com<br />

French painter Helene holds classes<br />

in oil painting at her beautiful river-side<br />

home on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday’s<br />

between 8 am and 1 pm for adults and<br />

Monday and Friday afternoons between<br />

3 pm and 6 pm for children.<br />

Printmaking<br />

alphagallery@bluemail.ch<br />

Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught<br />

by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber,<br />

who offers the chance to learn monotype,<br />

intaglio and etching techniques.<br />

CINEMAS<br />

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge<br />

45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220<br />

86 Pham Ngoc Thach<br />

info@bobbybrewers.com<br />

Popular top-floor home cinema showing<br />

movies five times a day on a large<br />

screen. Email for the latest schedule.<br />

Cinebox<br />

212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610<br />

240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425<br />

Cinebox cinemas show both original<br />

language films with Vietnamese subtitles<br />

and the dubbed versions.<br />

Future Shorts<br />

futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com<br />

www.futureshorts.com/vn<br />

Vietnam branch of the international network<br />

screens foreign and local short films<br />

around town. Events often incorporate<br />

other media and elements, including live<br />

music, performances, installations and<br />

discussion. Submissions accepted.<br />

Galaxy Cinema<br />

116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533<br />

230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688<br />

www.galaxycine.vn<br />

Large, modern cinema that shows the<br />

latest foreign releases in English (with<br />

Vietnamese subtitles).<br />

IDECAF<br />

31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451<br />

French cultural centre and cinema<br />

theatre. Showcases French movies with<br />

English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also<br />

hosts movies and documentaries from a<br />

number of overseas film festivals.<br />

Lotte Cinema<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 7897<br />

LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7<br />

Tel: 3775 2520<br />

www.lottecinemavn.com<br />

Modern cinema with four-way sound system.<br />

D7 location houses luxury theatre<br />

Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.<br />

me phim<br />

HCM City-based film initiative that<br />

provides support to local filmmakers and<br />

hosts regular film screenings/discussions.<br />

Email dduukk@gmail.com for information<br />

or join the Facebook group.<br />

Megastar<br />

Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong,<br />

D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388<br />

CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh<br />

Tel: 6297 1981<br />

www.megastarmedia.net<br />

State-of-the-art cinema complex screening<br />

the lastest blockbusters with plush,<br />

reclining seats. All movies shown in original<br />

language with Vietnamese subtitles.<br />

GALLERIES<br />

a little blah blah<br />

OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex<br />

6 Thai Van Lung, D1<br />

albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com<br />

Operates as an engine for contemporary<br />

art by organizing projects, exhibitions,<br />

screenings and talks. Runs one major<br />

art project each year and a reading room<br />

with more than 1,000 texts on art, design<br />

and creative culture. Free for everyone<br />

and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.<br />

Blue Space Contemporary Arts<br />

Center<br />

97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 3695<br />

bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn<br />

www.bluespacegallery.com<br />

Busy, working gallery with easels<br />

propped up outside situated in the<br />

grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts<br />

Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by<br />

local artists.<br />

Duc Minh Gallery<br />

31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498<br />

Housed in an opulent colonial mansion,<br />

private museum and art gallery showcases<br />

the private art collection of Vietnamese<br />

business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi.<br />

Containing more than 1,000 pieces that<br />

range from traditional to contemporary.<br />

Galerie Quynh<br />

65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019<br />

www.galeriequynh.com<br />

The city’s only international standard<br />

gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor<br />

space. Organizes regular exhibitions<br />

featuring established, emerging local/<br />

international contemporary artists, publishes<br />

original catalogs in both English<br />

and Vietnamese.<br />

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum<br />

97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441<br />

btmthcm@hotmail.com<br />

Institution housing contemporary/traditional<br />

works by Vietnamese and foreign<br />

artists. Pieces date from as early as<br />

the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese<br />

antiques, art crafted by the Cham and<br />

Funan peoples.<br />

San Art Independent Artist Space<br />

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898<br />

hoa@san-art.org<br />

www.san-art.org<br />

Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space<br />

featuring contemporary work by young<br />

Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest<br />

lecturers and curators. A reading room<br />

of art books and magazines is open to<br />

the public.<br />

TuDo Gallery<br />

53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966<br />

www.tudogallery.com<br />

Hosting permanent exhibitions of works<br />

by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils,<br />

silk paintings and lacquerware. More<br />

than 1,000 pieces on show.<br />

82 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 83


listings<br />

sports &<br />

leisure<br />

Sport Street<br />

Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between<br />

Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai<br />

Services include mending and restringing<br />

broken tennis rackets. Products range<br />

from badminton birdies and rackets to<br />

basketball hoops, free weights, roller<br />

blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all<br />

manner of balls.<br />

Trophies & Custom Signage Street<br />

Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and<br />

Nguyen Thai Hoc<br />

Offers custom engraving on trophies and<br />

plaques made of plastic, wood, metal<br />

and glass.<br />

CRICKET<br />

Saigon Cricket Assocation<br />

Social cricket league plays 25 overs<br />

a side matches Sunday mornings at<br />

RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November<br />

through May, with friendly games<br />

throughout the pre-season. Practice on<br />

Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.<br />

Australian Cricket Club<br />

Terry Gordon<br />

terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au<br />

saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com<br />

www.saigoncricket.com<br />

English Cricket Club<br />

Richard Carrington<br />

Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com<br />

info@eccsaigon.com<br />

www.eccsaigon.com<br />

Indian Cricket Club<br />

Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com<br />

United Cricket Club<br />

Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net<br />

keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn<br />

DANCING<br />

DanCenter<br />

46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh<br />

Tel: 3840 6974<br />

www.dancentervn.com<br />

Modern, centrally located studio with<br />

foreign trained dance instructors. Classes<br />

for kids age 5+ in jazz, ballet, hip hop<br />

and tap dance. Classes for adults in<br />

yoga, jazz, hip hop, salsa, belly, tap and<br />

capoeira.<br />

Salsa Dancing at La Fenetre Soleil<br />

135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1<br />

Tel: 0909 365 525<br />

Every Thursday from 8 pm with Urko and<br />

Fred, with a total beginners workshop<br />

starting at 8.30pm (minimum 10 people<br />

required; 50,000 VND with a cocktail).<br />

Followed by social dancing until<br />

midnight.<br />

Salsa Dancing at La Habana<br />

6 Cao Ba Quat, D1<br />

www.salsaigon.com<br />

salsaigon@gmail.com<br />

Six-week salsa package at 350,000<br />

VND for single persons and 550,000 for<br />

a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every<br />

Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30<br />

pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).<br />

Registration required.<br />

FITNESS & YOGA<br />

AIS Sports Centre<br />

36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126<br />

sportscentre@aisvietnam.com<br />

www.aissportscentre.com<br />

Features six-lane, 25-metre pool,<br />

basketball and netball courts, astroturf<br />

hockey/football area and outdoor gym<br />

equipment. Available for party hire, with<br />

BBQ included on request. Membership<br />

packages available. Kids swim club and<br />

adult masters programmes. Rainbow<br />

Divers offers scuba diving courses for<br />

children and adults. Free morning yoga.<br />

California WOW Xperience<br />

Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5<br />

28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999<br />

The world’s biggest fitness centre chain<br />

is one of Saigon’s most modern places<br />

to get your sweat on. Located in Hung<br />

Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout<br />

area and all kinds of classes including<br />

spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.<br />

Caravelle Club Spa<br />

19 Lam Son Square, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 4999<br />

Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular<br />

machines and free weights.<br />

The swimming pool is a great place for<br />

a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna,<br />

steam room and jacuzzi are there for<br />

winding down.<br />

Christophe Guillemin<br />

Tel: 0909 365525<br />

azia_shop@yahoo.fr<br />

www.azia-shop.com<br />

French fitness instructor offers his training<br />

assistance both at home or in your<br />

gym to help with everything from weight<br />

loss to muscle building. Also does cardio<br />

training sessions at An Phu swimming<br />

pool on Saturday at 11 am.<br />

Curves<br />

15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319<br />

www.curvesvietnam.com<br />

Curves is a women’s only fitness<br />

franchise with over 10,000 locations and<br />

four million members. The centre offers<br />

a famous 30-minute total body workout<br />

that they say will burn up to 500 calories.<br />

Features training on ‘double positive’<br />

resistance equipment.<br />

Diamond Plaza<br />

34 Le Duan, D1<br />

The city’s largest department store has<br />

a well-equipped gym with steam room,<br />

jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming<br />

pool. The gym costs from USD $90 per<br />

month.<br />

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation<br />

Group<br />

Tel: 093 804 3753<br />

Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com<br />

www.diamondway-teachings.org<br />

Meditation group using methods of<br />

Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or<br />

Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners<br />

to experience the nature of their own<br />

mind to reach Enlightenment.<br />

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre<br />

Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong,<br />

D5 Tel: 3839 7777<br />

Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern<br />

cardio and weights machines, sauna,<br />

steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor<br />

pool great for swimming laps.<br />

Hollywood Fitness World<br />

H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4<br />

Tel: 3826 4639<br />

One of the latest & best workout environments<br />

in the city, suitable for all ages and<br />

fitness levels. Personal training is offered.<br />

Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and<br />

Swimming Instructor<br />

Tel: 0939 026 540<br />

Erickforcearca@hotmail.com<br />

French instructor offers individual<br />

adapted programmes at home or at<br />

your gym, including weight loss, muscle<br />

gain, athletic training and post-traumatic<br />

treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics<br />

classes for groups or individuals are also<br />

offered.<br />

John Huy Tran, Fitness Instructor<br />

Tel: 0983 789 318<br />

jht_fitness@hotmail.com<br />

Canadian fitness professional certified<br />

trainer with over 10 years’ experience in<br />

the fitness industry, dance and sports.<br />

Can provide training tailored to individual<br />

needs.<br />

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory<br />

346 Ben Van Don, D4<br />

Tel: 0918 337 111<br />

www.teamminetti.com<br />

Fitness centre teaching English and<br />

Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial<br />

arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed<br />

martial arts with classes for both adults<br />

and children. All training conducted by a<br />

professional foreign instructor.<br />

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre<br />

64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181<br />

www.lapothiquaire.com<br />

Internationally-certified teachers offer<br />

daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar,<br />

Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and<br />

Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool,<br />

sauna and steam room.<br />

La Cochinchine<br />

Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1<br />

Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477)<br />

New and affordable fitness centre<br />

located in the heart of the city. This gym<br />

has a wide range of weight machines, as<br />

well as many cardio machines, including<br />

treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A<br />

good variety of classes are available,<br />

including yoga and aerobic dance.<br />

Legend Hotel Fitness Centre<br />

2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

One of the best hotel fitness centres.<br />

Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular<br />

and weight machines, along with<br />

a circular swimming pool and massage<br />

parlour. A three-month membership<br />

costs USD $400++.<br />

Michelle Lloyd Yoga<br />

Tel: 0909 64 8193<br />

michelleglloyd@gmail.com<br />

www.michellelloyd.com<br />

E-RYT200 certified yoga instructor<br />

offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various<br />

locations around the city. Private and<br />

corporate yoga programs available. Contact<br />

Michelle for more information on her<br />

current schedule and special events.<br />

Nutrifort<br />

2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1<br />

Tel: 3825 8560<br />

news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com<br />

Comprehensive health and fitness centre<br />

offering customized exercise, nutritional<br />

counseling to members. Specializing<br />

in weight loss programs, core/body alignment<br />

training with Pilates equipment.<br />

Healthy snacks available.<br />

NTFQ2<br />

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 6672<br />

ntfq2@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com<br />

First boutique, purpose-built fitness<br />

and wellness centre in Vietnam. Offers<br />

personal training, small group classes,<br />

specialized treatment and healthy dining<br />

at on-site restaurant Good Eats.<br />

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre<br />

2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234<br />

Luxury health centre with the full range of<br />

facilities including swimming pool, steam<br />

room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonth<br />

peak membership costs USD<br />

$810++ and off-peak is $450++.<br />

Patricia Romero, ERYT200<br />

Phu My Hung, An Phu<br />

Tel: 090 387 2832<br />

saigonease@yahoo.com<br />

Alignment-based yoga classes that<br />

infuse elements from the Ashtanga and<br />

Iyengar traditions. Group and private<br />

classes. Also specialising in therapeutics<br />

and restorative yoga. Patricia has been<br />

teaching yoga in Saigon since 2002.<br />

Renaissance Hotel Health Club<br />

8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 0033<br />

Stylish health club with gym, swimming<br />

pool, steam room, massage parlour,<br />

pool-side bar and an outstanding view<br />

of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or<br />

$10 a day.<br />

Saigon Fitness Club<br />

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 8888<br />

The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is<br />

staffed by highly-qualified instructors to<br />

cater for your fitness needs. Features a<br />

swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf<br />

driving range, jogging track, sauna, and<br />

massage rooms.<br />

Saigon Yoga<br />

Somerset Apartments<br />

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1<br />

Tel: 090 835 2265<br />

www.saigonyoga.com<br />

info@saigonyoga.com<br />

Yoga and pre-natal yoga classes held<br />

downtown and in D3. Taught by experienced,<br />

certified instructrs from the U.S.<br />

Class size limited to 12 students. Reservation<br />

is requested to ensure a space.<br />

Private group and pre-natal classes of up<br />

to 8 by appointment.<br />

Sheraton Fitness<br />

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers,<br />

88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828<br />

sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com<br />

www.sheraton.com/saigon<br />

Sheraton Fitness features a team of<br />

trained professionals and new Technogym<br />

equipment. Members have full use<br />

of leisure facilities and receive discounts<br />

at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua<br />

Day Spa.<br />

Star Fitness Gym<br />

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu<br />

Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255<br />

This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the<br />

biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range<br />

of machines for any type of workout.<br />

Membership involves one time entry fee<br />

plus monthly subscriptions and gives free<br />

access to regular fitness classes.<br />

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre<br />

17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555<br />

Small but well-equipped gym with helpful<br />

staff and quality equipment. Membership<br />

costs USD $700++ for six months and<br />

$1,300++ for a year. Also runs a number<br />

of fitness classes including yoga.<br />

Yoga & Meditation Centre<br />

335 Dien Bien Phu, D3<br />

Tel: 3929 1706<br />

www.ymc.org<br />

Professional team of Western and local<br />

teachers show you how to practice a<br />

combination of yoga and meditation with<br />

a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin,<br />

Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates.<br />

Yoga Living<br />

95 Pasteur, D1<br />

Tel: 098 880 4598<br />

info@yogaliving.com.vn<br />

www.yogaliving.com.vn<br />

Yoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa,<br />

power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can<br />

be self-made by members.<br />

FOOTBALL & RUGBY<br />

Australian Rules Football<br />

Tel: 093 768 3230<br />

www.vietnamswans.com<br />

vietnamswans@gmail.com<br />

The Vietnam Swans play regular international<br />

footy matches around Asia. Training<br />

sessions are held weekly in HCM City<br />

(2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi<br />

(midday, Saturday, UN International<br />

School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes<br />

welcome.<br />

Les Gaulois de Saigon<br />

www.gauloisdesaigon.com<br />

info@gauloisdesaigon.com<br />

A new team of French footballers, the<br />

side invites players and their families to<br />

come and join in their friendly training<br />

sessions, where everyone can get together<br />

and enjoy the sport while making<br />

new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919<br />

691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.<br />

RMIT Vietnam<br />

sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn<br />

A new player on the SIFL scene with<br />

a team made up of students from the<br />

University. They have their own football<br />

ground on-site consisting of two brand<br />

new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.<br />

Saigon Raiders<br />

jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com<br />

Sociable football side who are always on<br />

the lookout for new talent for their weekly<br />

matches and training sessions. The team<br />

participates in the Saigon International<br />

Football League and also has regular<br />

fixtures against local teams in the outlying<br />

provinces and also participates in international<br />

tournaments.<br />

Saigon Rugby Club<br />

Tel: 0903 735 799<br />

www.saigonrfc.org<br />

saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com<br />

Social, mixed touch rugby played every<br />

Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT<br />

from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes<br />

visiting teams and tours the region<br />

for men’s contact and women’s touch<br />

rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.<br />

Saigon Saints<br />

chris@saigonsaints.com<br />

www.saigonsaints.com<br />

Expat football club of all ages, which has<br />

been running since 1995 and plays in the<br />

SIFL. Regularly venture on international<br />

tours especially to Bangkok and Manila<br />

and play in other local and international<br />

tournaments. The players train weekly,<br />

and new players are encouraged to join.<br />

GOLF<br />

Dalat Palace Golf Club<br />

Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat<br />

Tel: 063 3821 101<br />

dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com<br />

The most beautiful course in Vietnam,<br />

combining the crisp mountain air with<br />

an environment of stately pine trees.<br />

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-<br />

yard course is an enjoyable challenge for<br />

golfers of all levels.<br />

Dong Nai Golf Resort<br />

Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom<br />

Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590<br />

www.dongnaigolf.com.vn<br />

Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa<br />

complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards.<br />

The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in<br />

Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres<br />

from the city. Membership starts at USD<br />

$2,000 a year.<br />

Ocean Dunes Golf Club<br />

1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet<br />

Tel: 062 3821 995<br />

odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com<br />

Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard<br />

par-72 course winds through seaside<br />

dunes, with the variable coastal breezes<br />

changing its character each day. An<br />

enjoyable and eminently playable course<br />

and has become a favourite venue for<br />

expatriate tournaments.<br />

Saigon South Golf<br />

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7<br />

Tel: 5411 2001<br />

sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn<br />

Nine-hole mini golf course and driving<br />

range set amongst attractive gardens just<br />

behind FV Hospital. Membership starts<br />

from USD $700 for 6 months. Visitors’<br />

greens fees for a round of golf are around<br />

USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after.<br />

Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also<br />

available.<br />

Song Be Golf Resort<br />

77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An<br />

Tel: 0650 3756 660<br />

info@songbegolf.com<br />

www.songbegolf.com<br />

Located 22 kilometres from the city<br />

centre, the premier golf course in the area<br />

features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.<br />

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool,<br />

and a gymnasium.<br />

Vietnam Golf and Country Club<br />

Long Thanh My Village, D9<br />

www.vietnamgolfcc.com<br />

This facility consists of two courses of 18<br />

holes each, one of which is designed in a<br />

more traditional Asian style, and the other<br />

in international style. Has other attractions<br />

such as boating, tennis and a restaurant<br />

area.<br />

LEISURE<br />

Phun Runners<br />

www.phun-run.com<br />

info@phun-run.com<br />

Running group that meets Sundays at 7<br />

am for a scenic run around Saigon before<br />

breakfast. Great way to explore the city,<br />

meet fellow runners and get fit for future<br />

events. Check website for rendezvous<br />

points.<br />

Saigon International Dart League<br />

www.thesidl.com<br />

A highly popular group in town, the darts<br />

club runs a competitive year-long league<br />

for 16 pub-based teams. There are some<br />

excellent players in this sociable and<br />

international group. See website for details<br />

of how to join and latest 180 scores.<br />

Saigon International Softball League<br />

sisl@saigonsoftball.info<br />

www.saigonsoftball.info<br />

The league plays slo-pitch softball every<br />

Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School<br />

in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes<br />

newcomers.<br />

Saigon Pony Club<br />

Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2<br />

Tel: 0913 733 360<br />

A standout facility offering pony rides,<br />

riding lessons, horse clinics and pony<br />

rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.<br />

Senior Expat ChitChat<br />

Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among<br />

seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66<br />

Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10<br />

to 11.30 am. The informal group is for<br />

local expatriates and English-speaking<br />

foreign travellers who meet to share experiences<br />

and make new friends. Call club<br />

organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837.<br />

Squash<br />

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176<br />

www.thelandmarkvietnam.com<br />

One of three squash courts in town.<br />

Membership is open to non-Landmark<br />

residents and drop-in players. Lessons<br />

and racquets are available for additional<br />

fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance<br />

or phone for further information.<br />

Ultimate Frisbee<br />

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7<br />

www.saigon-ultimate.com<br />

Join in this exciting popular sport every<br />

Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in<br />

Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions<br />

also organised for the more experienced.<br />

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890<br />

X-Rock Climbing<br />

Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre<br />

75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3<br />

Tel: 6278 5794<br />

503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2<br />

Tel: 2210 9192<br />

www.xrockclimbing.com<br />

Offering safe and professional climbing for<br />

anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain<br />

climbing routes rated from beginner<br />

to advanced, climbing and belay-safety<br />

courses and training, birthday parties, corporate<br />

team building. Excellent facilities for<br />

children and annual membership for kids.<br />

84 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 85


listings<br />

health &<br />

beauty<br />

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE<br />

American Chiropractic Clinic<br />

8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667<br />

www.vietnamchiropractic.com<br />

A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot<br />

care clinic staffed by American-trained<br />

chiropractors speaking French, English,<br />

Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats<br />

back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also<br />

specializing in sports injuries, manufacture<br />

of medical grade foot orthotics.<br />

Ciro Gargiulo<br />

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center<br />

The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh,<br />

Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757<br />

care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com<br />

www.care1.com.vn<br />

A holistic approach is used by this<br />

acupuncturist and traditional medicine<br />

practitioner to rebalance the body’s<br />

energy fields. A wide range of ailments<br />

are treated including back pain, allergies<br />

and insomnia.<br />

Institute of Traditional Medicine<br />

273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan<br />

Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this wellestablished<br />

traditional hospital & training<br />

centre. He speaks good English and<br />

provides excellent treatments in a clean<br />

environment. The Institute also provides<br />

acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.<br />

Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy<br />

– David Truong Tan<br />

Tel: 0903 09 81 24<br />

www.osteopathy-vietnam.com<br />

French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist<br />

specializing in the treatment of<br />

back pain and muscular, ligament and<br />

joint problems using a holistic approach<br />

and gentle manipulative techniques.<br />

Consultations available at International<br />

SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts<br />

1 and 2.<br />

Theta Healing<br />

– Jodie Eastwood<br />

Tel: 091 859 1933<br />

www.thetahealing.com<br />

A unique energy healing technique for<br />

mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified<br />

practitioner based in HCM City.<br />

Traditional Medicine Hospital<br />

197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3<br />

Friendly staff speak little to no English<br />

at this well-known ad spotlessly clean<br />

hospital offering treatments that combine<br />

traditional Chinese medicine with modern<br />

knowledge and expertise.<br />

COSMETIC TREATMENT<br />

Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic<br />

135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5<br />

Tel: 3923 4419<br />

A modern clinic offering a comprehensive<br />

range of optical services. Specializes in<br />

LASIK correctional procedures, costing<br />

from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes.<br />

English spoken. Open seven days a<br />

week.<br />

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery<br />

45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167<br />

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7<br />

Tel: 5411 3366<br />

www.fvhospital.com<br />

International-standard cosmetic procedures<br />

from simple dermabrasion and<br />

chemical peels to collagen injections,<br />

nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and<br />

breast enhancement. Procedures carried<br />

out by French and Vietnamese doctors<br />

using the latest equipment.<br />

Parkway Shenton International Clinic<br />

Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

Owned by the Singapore-based<br />

healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this<br />

aesthetics clinic offers a range of both<br />

surgical and non-surgical treatments<br />

including dental reconstruction.<br />

DENTAL<br />

European Dental Clinic<br />

127 Dien Bien Phu, Dakao, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 8680<br />

Expat English and French-speaking<br />

dentist. Performs full range of dental<br />

treatment including whitening, aesthetic<br />

fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics,<br />

veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24-<br />

hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or<br />

0918 749 204.<br />

Koseikai Dental Clinic<br />

3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1<br />

Tel: 3910 6255<br />

info@koseikai.com.vn<br />

www.koseikaidentist.com<br />

A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam,<br />

provide full range of dental services<br />

with the latest in technology, delivery of<br />

laboratory work and new technologies<br />

now available.<br />

Starlight Dental Clinic<br />

Dr. Philippe Guettier & Associates<br />

3 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3822 6222<br />

doc.linh@gmail.com<br />

With 10 years’ experience providing<br />

dental treatment to expat and<br />

Vietnamese patients, this well-known<br />

dental surgery is staffed by both foreign &<br />

local practitioners. Au fait with the latest<br />

treatments and techniques, the surgery<br />

prides themselves on their high standard<br />

of equipment & sterilization.<br />

Westcoast International Dental Clinic<br />

27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1<br />

Tel: 3825 6999<br />

71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777<br />

info@westcoastinternational.com<br />

www.westcoastinternational.com<br />

Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by<br />

French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese<br />

speaking dental professionals.<br />

See Medical listings for hospitals with<br />

dental services.<br />

HAIR & SALON<br />

Anthony George for London Hair &<br />

Beauty<br />

FIDECO Riverview Building<br />

14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475<br />

www.aglondonsalon.com.vn<br />

Top British stylist George brings his<br />

unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern,<br />

stylish and professional salon is host<br />

to a staff of professionally trained beauty<br />

therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf<br />

and L’Oreal products. Shampoo,<br />

cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini<br />

facials from $12.<br />

Jasmine<br />

45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737<br />

jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn<br />

Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts<br />

and a wide range of services including<br />

waxing, manicures, pedicures and other<br />

beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial,<br />

salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue<br />

massage costs USD $98<br />

Le Brian Salon<br />

201 Calmette, D1<br />

195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2<br />

Vietnamese-American hairstylist with<br />

dual locations, offering a full range of hair<br />

services, as well as professional make-up<br />

application.<br />

Lloyd Morgan International Hair<br />

Studio<br />

234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2<br />

Tel: 090 8422 007<br />

International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one<br />

of the best in town. He’s been in the<br />

business for over 30 years and brings his<br />

expertise to this established, top-notch<br />

salon.<br />

Qi Spa<br />

151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan<br />

Tel: 3844 1719<br />

Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150<br />

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon,<br />

Tel: 3997 5437<br />

High-end salon and spa offers the<br />

standard range of services in a calming<br />

atmosphere with good service. Waxing,<br />

nail services, hair dressing as well as<br />

luxurious facial and massage treatments<br />

on offer.<br />

Souche<br />

2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre<br />

37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372<br />

A top-end beauty salon using the<br />

Dermatologica line of skincare products.<br />

Specialises in personalized facial care<br />

treatments from USD $30 and medicated<br />

acne treatments from $40. Waxing and<br />

other aesthetic services are also available<br />

in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent<br />

service.<br />

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio<br />

Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang,<br />

D7 Tel: 5416 0378<br />

Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based<br />

hair salon has a variety of<br />

hair services including scalp treatments,<br />

rebonding and hair extensions.<br />

The Salon<br />

21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 9660<br />

65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394<br />

Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists<br />

at this local salon with multiple locations.<br />

A haircut starts at USD $28 for women<br />

and $22 for men.<br />

Venus<br />

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1<br />

Reasonable price<br />

Tel: 3829 6298<br />

French Vietnamese stylist Sandrine<br />

Nguyen trained with worldwide academics<br />

Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. With<br />

more than eight years experience, she<br />

offers haircuts for men from USD $10<br />

and $20 for women. Special services are<br />

colouring and highlights.<br />

YKC Beauty & Hair Studio<br />

219 Dien Bien Phu, D3<br />

Tel: 3829 2791/3827 5194<br />

www.ykcspa.com<br />

Popular among the expat community, the<br />

salon is run by Toronto trained mother<br />

and son duo Cindy (owner) and Ky The<br />

Guy (hair stylist). Offers a full range of spa<br />

and hair services and has a second hair<br />

salon located in the Park Hyatt Hotel.<br />

YKC Esthetics & Hair Spa<br />

219 Dien Bien Phu, D3<br />

Tel: 3829 2791<br />

An excellent salon with a following of<br />

expat regulars. A Toronto-trained motherand-son<br />

team manage YKC’s staff and<br />

offer the full range of services from facials,<br />

body therapy, waxing, nails to cut, color<br />

and highlights.<br />

MEDICAL<br />

Australian Clinic & Pathology<br />

Diagnostics (ACPD)<br />

273-275 Ly Thai To, D10<br />

Tel: 3834 9941<br />

www.australianclinic.com.vn<br />

Services include general outpatient<br />

healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks,<br />

X-ray, full laboratory and in-house<br />

pharmacy including specialist medical<br />

services covering cardiology, paediatrics,<br />

obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and<br />

dermatology.<br />

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center<br />

The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh,<br />

Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757<br />

care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com<br />

www.care1.com.vn<br />

Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice,<br />

CARE1 is an executive health care centre<br />

offering comprehensive preventative-care<br />

checkups in a modern and professional<br />

setting. State-of-the-art technology provides<br />

fast and accurate diagnoses.<br />

Centre Medical International (CMI)<br />

1 Han Thuyen, D1<br />

Tel: 3827 2366<br />

www.cmi-vietnam.com<br />

Located downtown next to the cathedral,<br />

the centre provides a high standard<br />

of medical care from qualified French<br />

and Vietnamese physicians. Its range<br />

of services include general and tropical<br />

medicine, cardiology, gynaecology,<br />

osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech<br />

therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.<br />

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic<br />

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 8888<br />

Respected multi-specialty clinic with<br />

foreign and local physicians. Doctors on<br />

call 24 hours a day. Standard check-ups<br />

cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000<br />

VND.<br />

Family Medical Practice HCMC<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 7848<br />

www.vietnammedicalpractice.com<br />

Leading international primary healthcare<br />

provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art<br />

medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual<br />

foreign doctors. Extensive experience<br />

in worldwide medical evacuations<br />

with car and air ambulance on standby.<br />

Also in Hanoi and Danang.<br />

FV Hospital<br />

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7<br />

Tel: 5411 3333<br />

www.fvhospital.com<br />

A foreign-owned international-standard<br />

hospital with a mixture of French and<br />

Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality<br />

services, comprehensive patient care<br />

and is particularly well regarded for<br />

its maternity care. Full array of dental<br />

services from examination, cleaning and<br />

whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures<br />

and implants. 24-hour emergency line:<br />

3411 3500.<br />

International SOS<br />

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3<br />

Tel: 3829 8424<br />

www.internationalsos.com<br />

Globally-renowned provider of medical<br />

assistance and international healthcare.<br />

Specializes in offering medical transport<br />

and evacuation both within and outside<br />

of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.<br />

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has<br />

multilingual staff.<br />

Victoria Healthcare International<br />

Clinic<br />

79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 3910 4545<br />

www.victoriavn.com<br />

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations,<br />

and specializing in women’s<br />

health, paediatrics, digestive diseases<br />

and internal medicine. Offers a membership<br />

programme. Open seven days a<br />

week. Doctors on call 24 hours.<br />

NAILS<br />

Nghia Beauty<br />

20 Phan Boi Chau, D1<br />

Tel: 3829 2688<br />

Located next to the Ben Thanh Market,<br />

clean efficient and friendly staff service<br />

your hands and feet with a range of treatments<br />

while you relax in a comfortable<br />

atmosphere.<br />

Nail P.KH<br />

51 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1<br />

A well-known local place with a number<br />

of manicure stations and an extensive<br />

range of services. A mani-pedi with polish<br />

starts at 40,000 VND.<br />

79 Dien Bien Phu St., Da Kao Ward, Dist. 1, HCMC<br />

Tel: (84 8) 3 910 45 45 (10 lines) - Fax: (84 8) 3 910 33 34<br />

86 asialife HCMC 135A Nguyen Van Troi St., Ward 12, Phu Nhuan Dist.<br />

Tel: (84 8) 3 997 45 45 - Fax: (84 8) 3 997 99 79<br />

asialife HCMC 87<br />

Email: info@victoriavn.com - Website:www.victoriavn.com


OPI<br />

253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3<br />

International brand of nail care offering a<br />

variety of treatments from standard manicures<br />

at 50,000 VND to the whole host<br />

nail services such as acrylics, powder gell,<br />

cuticle treatments and French polishing.<br />

Quang Qui’s Nails<br />

146 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

242 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Locally popular spots with low prices and<br />

good service, offering anything you could<br />

possibly want for your nails.<br />

SKINCARE<br />

Avon<br />

186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3<br />

Tel: 3930 4018<br />

www.vn.avon.com<br />

HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct<br />

seller of cosmetics occupies the ground<br />

floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names<br />

like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.<br />

AZIAL and rendez-vous<br />

Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

Tel: 3824 3579<br />

www.azial.com<br />

www.naturalrdv.com<br />

All-natural skin and body care products<br />

free from synthetic ingredients. Made with<br />

freshly extracted Aloe Vera gel and enhanced<br />

with therapeutic-grade essential<br />

oils. Found in many of the best-known<br />

spas in Vietnam.<br />

The Body Shop<br />

87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683<br />

www.thebodyshop.com<br />

Internatioanl cosmetics retailer with strong<br />

commitment to environment sources<br />

natural ingredients from small communities<br />

for its line of more than 600 products.<br />

Dermalogica<br />

Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,<br />

D1 Tel: 3910 0372<br />

www.dermalogica.com<br />

U.S. brand of cleansers popular among<br />

skin care professionals. The line of toners,<br />

exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are<br />

engineered by skin therapists to be free<br />

of common irritants, and the company is<br />

categorically opposed to animal testing.<br />

The Face Shop<br />

294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325<br />

598B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3<br />

Tel: 3832 2095<br />

94 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3923 9868<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

www.thefaceshop.com<br />

Local retailer for the South Korea-based<br />

international brand of natural body, bath<br />

and skincare products. The company<br />

pairs variety with value, offering hundreds<br />

of products for different skin types. Also<br />

has kiosks at Co.op Mart in Phu My<br />

Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza.<br />

L’Apothiquaire<br />

64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181<br />

www.lapothiquaire.com<br />

info@lapothiquaire.com<br />

French-made natural products for all<br />

types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural<br />

Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario<br />

Toscano. Available at all L’Apothiquaire<br />

outlets.<br />

L’Occitane en Provence<br />

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1<br />

French cosmetics company with a 30-<br />

year history offering a range of bath and<br />

massage oils, essential oils, body and<br />

hand care products are especially well<br />

known. Also has outlets in all the major<br />

downtown shopping malls.<br />

Sian Skincare Laser Clinic<br />

71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999<br />

info@sianclinic.com<br />

www.sianclinic.com<br />

Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in<br />

non-surgical esthetic treatments including<br />

Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss<br />

regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation<br />

and anti-aging treatments. Led by Dr. Tran<br />

Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist<br />

from the hospital of Dermatology of<br />

HCMC.<br />

Yves Rocher<br />

16-18 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3824 8782<br />

www.yves-rocher.com<br />

Small centrally located boutique retailing<br />

in French brand of botanical fragrances,<br />

face and body care, cosmetics and antiaging<br />

solutions.<br />

SPAS<br />

Aqua Day Spa<br />

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

Tel: 3827 2828<br />

Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa<br />

with a holistic approach to treatment, using<br />

natural Harnn products plus hot stone<br />

therapy and seaweed treatments.<br />

Belissima Spa<br />

3rd Floor Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Tel: 3272 8682<br />

Well known in Hanoi and now available<br />

in HCMC, Belissima offers range of facial<br />

treatments, body therapies, and hand and<br />

foot treatments as well as special packages<br />

such as Coffee and Chocolate Body<br />

Toning Treatment.<br />

Henni Biscoe<br />

NTFQ2<br />

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2<br />

Tel: 0126 874 9596<br />

henni.biscoe@gmail.com<br />

Physical therapist from the UK offers<br />

personal training and therapeutic massage,<br />

including deep tissue/sports and<br />

pregnancy massage.<br />

Jasmine Spa<br />

45 Ton That Thiep, D1<br />

Tel: 3827 2737<br />

jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn<br />

Friendly and efficient staff offer haircuts<br />

and a wide range of services including<br />

waxing, manicures, pedicures and other<br />

beauty treatments. Skin renewal facials,<br />

salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massages<br />

from USD $79.<br />

La Maison de L’Apothiquaire<br />

61-63 Le Thanh Ton, D3 Tel: 3822 1218<br />

64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181<br />

info@lapothiquaire.com<br />

www.lapothiquaire.com<br />

Traditional French day spa in colonial villa<br />

with professional therapists and state-ofthe-art<br />

treatments. Complimentary use of<br />

swimming pool, sauna and steam bath.<br />

Has fitness centre and organic garden<br />

restaurant and offers gentlemen’s care.<br />

Winner of Guide Award 2005-2009. Also<br />

offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body<br />

and hair care from ErbarioToscano.<br />

NTFQ2 Spa<br />

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 6672<br />

Therapeutic massage with a focus on<br />

sports massage to increase circulation,<br />

remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility<br />

and relieve back pain. Also offering<br />

Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage to reduce<br />

tension and reiki treatments.<br />

Renaissance Riverside Spa<br />

8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 0033<br />

No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy<br />

massages from USD $22 plus<br />

a room dedicated to foot massages from<br />

$18 at the atrium level. Also has sizable<br />

steam and sauna rooms at the club<br />

Spa Authentic at Thao Dien<br />

195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 6453<br />

Located on the banks of the Saigon River,<br />

offering day spa and fitness facilities with<br />

a riverside pool.<br />

Xuan Spa<br />

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1<br />

Tel: 3824 1234<br />

Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish<br />

massage and water therapy including the<br />

unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften<br />

and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara<br />

with special oil for 45 minutes. Spa packages<br />

aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and<br />

hydrating are also available.<br />

questions for the coiffeur<br />

By Lloyd Morgan<br />

Q. I’m currently growing<br />

out my hair. What can I do<br />

to tidy it up throughout the<br />

process?<br />

A. Try a texturized cut. This is<br />

an internal cut that will leave<br />

much of the existing length.<br />

The stylist will pick up the<br />

already layered sections and<br />

snip pieces of hair from the<br />

section, moving horizontally<br />

across. This can be done in<br />

a brick-like movement (up<br />

and down) or straight across.<br />

Either method creates a layer<br />

within a layer and, in most<br />

cases, gives movement and<br />

increases body. However, the<br />

effect depends on the length<br />

of the existing layers. If the<br />

layers are too long, it will only<br />

give a more textured effect—<br />

defeating the purpose.<br />

Q. Every time I get highlights,<br />

my hair feels dry. Why<br />

is that? I’m assuming that<br />

my stylist only colours my<br />

regrowth.<br />

A. The stylist is probably<br />

overlapping too much on the<br />

already lightened blonde hair.<br />

There are a few ifs here. If the<br />

stylist is using bleach, then<br />

he or she should be especially<br />

careful not to touch the<br />

bleached areas, as this will<br />

cause breakage. If your hair<br />

is really blonde, it will be more<br />

susceptible to breaking than if<br />

it’s closer to a gold tone. Also<br />

there will be less breakage<br />

if the stylist uses a high lift<br />

tint—but regardless, overlapping<br />

shouldn’t happen. If the<br />

breakage keeps occurring,<br />

then change your stylist.<br />

Q. Is leave-in conditioner<br />

OK to use, and how often<br />

should I use it?<br />

A. This depends on how dry<br />

and thick the hair is. Usually<br />

leave-ins are not as heavy as<br />

normal conditioners, but as<br />

with all topical approaches, the<br />

product will eventually build up<br />

and weigh the hair down. In<br />

some cases, it will make the<br />

hair look dull and feel gluggy.<br />

This of course depends on<br />

how often you use it.<br />

Many people living in<br />

humid climates over-wash<br />

their hair, as it always feels<br />

sweaty and dirty. When you<br />

over-wash, shampoo builds<br />

up and dries the hair out over<br />

time (usually because it’s not<br />

rinsed thoroughly enough). But<br />

remember that the dirt and<br />

sweat builds up only around<br />

the hair line.<br />

Here’s a little trick. As soon<br />

as you’ve wet your locks, apply<br />

a cheap conditioner from<br />

the top of the ear down to the<br />

ends. With the conditioner still<br />

in, apply your good shampoo<br />

(not a cheap one) to the top<br />

of your head and proceed<br />

to wash. The conditioner will<br />

gently cleanse the mid-lengths<br />

and ends, moisturize and act<br />

as a barrier so that the suds<br />

won’t get sucked into the<br />

already porous areas of the<br />

length when you rinse.<br />

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd<br />

Morgan International Hair Studio<br />

at 234 Nguyen Van Huong,<br />

Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at<br />

0908 422 007 or lloydskate@<br />

hotmail.com.<br />

listings<br />

family<br />

ACTIVITIES<br />

Alpha Gallery<br />

10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1<br />

Printmaking classes for both adults and<br />

children run by Swiss artist Bernadette<br />

Gruber. Six-week courses start with the<br />

basics and swiftly move students towards<br />

producing proofs and final prints from<br />

copper plates they have created. Freedom<br />

of expression is encouraged and other<br />

mediums are also explored.<br />

Conservatory of Music<br />

112 Nguyen Du, D1<br />

The established training centre for professional<br />

musicians offers private piano and<br />

violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.<br />

Helene Kling Painting<br />

helene_kling@yahoo.com<br />

Offers classes in oil painting to both<br />

children and adults for 150,000 VND and<br />

300,000 VND respectively. Classes are<br />

paced to suit each student.<br />

Rubba Duckies Swim School<br />

rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com<br />

Parent and infant water familiarisation<br />

classes in a group environment from six to<br />

48 months. Classes take place at Somerset<br />

Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or<br />

AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.<br />

Saigon Movement<br />

An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722<br />

saigonmovement@gmail.com<br />

Sports and creative movement classes for<br />

kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s<br />

total body awareness through a variety of<br />

games and sports-based activities. Phu<br />

My Hung schedule starts in September.<br />

Saigon Pony Club<br />

Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2<br />

Tel: 0913 733 360<br />

Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids<br />

from three and upwards can ride one<br />

of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with<br />

foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost<br />

350,000 VND for kids from age six.<br />

SaigonSports Academy<br />

An Phu and Phu My Hung<br />

Tel: 0862 819 790<br />

info@saigonsportsacademy.com<br />

Sports academy founded by pro tennis<br />

coach currently offering tennis, football,<br />

basketball and swimming training to kids<br />

4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate<br />

international concepts and systems to<br />

draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also<br />

operates a youth football league.<br />

The Performing Arts Academy<br />

19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2<br />

Tel: 090 339 0675<br />

info@paa.com.vn<br />

www.paa.com.vn<br />

Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for<br />

instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute,<br />

clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM<br />

qualified. Group dance and drama<br />

session also available. Offering Tiny Tots<br />

music enrichment & dance program for<br />

ages 3-5.<br />

Tae Kwondo<br />

BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and<br />

Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong<br />

Toan, D2<br />

phucteacherkd@yahoo.com<br />

Private and group classes are run after<br />

school three times a week by the friendly<br />

Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is<br />

welcome to join in the course, which costs<br />

USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25<br />

fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc<br />

directly on 0903 918 149.<br />

BABY EQUIPMENT<br />

Baby<br />

66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10<br />

A large store stocking a good range of<br />

baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots<br />

and bottles. Prices are reasonable.<br />

Babyland<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Quality products including car seats, buggies,<br />

prams and travel cots and a good selection<br />

of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles<br />

and sterilizer sets, and a small range of<br />

educational books. Prices are higher than<br />

the other places, but so is the quality.<br />

Maman Bebe<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Tel: 3825 8724<br />

www.mamanbebe.com.vn<br />

Stocks an assortment of modern strollers<br />

and car seats. Also sells various utensils<br />

and practical baby products. Small selection<br />

of clothing for ages newborn to 14<br />

years.<br />

Me & Be<br />

230 Vo Thi Sau, D3<br />

40 Ton That Tung, D1<br />

141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan<br />

246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3<br />

101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4<br />

287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan<br />

The closest thing to Mothercare the city<br />

has to offer. Stocks a substantial range<br />

of apparel for babies including bottles<br />

and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots),<br />

clothing, toys, safety equipment and more,<br />

all at reasonable prices.<br />

Me Oi<br />

1B Ton That Tung, D1<br />

A small shop adjacent to the maternity<br />

hospital bursting at the seams with everything<br />

you need for your baby. Clothing,<br />

footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags<br />

and toys all at reasonable prices.<br />

New Parent Street<br />

Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between<br />

Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.<br />

An interesting array of baby formula and<br />

hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for<br />

first time parents.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

ABC International School<br />

2,1E street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung,<br />

Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833<br />

abcintschoolss@vnn.vn<br />

www.theabcis.com<br />

UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma<br />

with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by<br />

Cambridge Universit examinations board.<br />

From playgroup to pre-university matriculation.<br />

Served by 80+ British teachers. Good<br />

facilities and extra-curricular activities.<br />

ACG International School<br />

East West Highway, An Phu, D2<br />

Tel: 3747 1234<br />

www.acgedu.com<br />

Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s<br />

international network of schools, ACG<br />

offers comprehensive education from<br />

kindergarten to senior high school and a<br />

range of extracurricular activities. International<br />

curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge<br />

International Examinations).<br />

The Australian International School<br />

Saigon<br />

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound,<br />

36 Thao Dien, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 6960<br />

enrolment@aisvietnam.com<br />

www.aisvietnam.com<br />

An international curricula and PYP/MYP<br />

candidate school. Senior students follow<br />

IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only<br />

school in Vietnam authorized to deliver<br />

88 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 89


University of New South Wales Foundation<br />

Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced<br />

classrooms, highly trained and<br />

experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted<br />

for academic, sport, creative activities.<br />

British International School<br />

An Phu Secondary Campus<br />

246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 2335<br />

www.bisvietnam.com<br />

With campuses all over the city and expansion<br />

underway, BIS offers a mixture of both<br />

English and International curricula-based<br />

education alongside excellent facilities and<br />

extra-curricular activities. Senior students<br />

follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.<br />

International School HCMC<br />

28 Vo Truong Toan, D2<br />

Tel: 3898 9100<br />

www.ishcmc.com<br />

One of 136 schools around the world<br />

to be accredited as an IB World School.<br />

Offers all three of the IB programmes from<br />

primary through to grade 12. The school<br />

is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC<br />

and has a strong focus on community<br />

spirit and fosters an awareness of other<br />

languages and cultures.<br />

International School Saigon Pearl<br />

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District<br />

Tel: 2220 1788/89<br />

www.issp.edu.vn<br />

Opening in August, 2011, the single<br />

purpose-built campus will cater for nursery<br />

through grade five. In the second year,<br />

sixth grade will be added. ISSP’s long-term<br />

strategic plan includes complete middle<br />

and high schools. In the spring of 2011<br />

ISSP will host the Western Association<br />

of Schools and Colleges (the largest<br />

American accreditation agency in Asia).<br />

Accreditation will allow children to easily<br />

transfer to schools abroad.<br />

The Little Genius International Kindergarten<br />

102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7<br />

Tel: 5421 1052<br />

Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum,<br />

modern facilities and<br />

attractive school grounds.<br />

Montessori International School<br />

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 2639<br />

www.montessori.edu.vn<br />

Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized<br />

educational method which focuses<br />

on fostering the child’s natural desire to<br />

learn. The aim is to create an encouraging<br />

environment conducive to learning by<br />

developing a sense of self and individuality.<br />

A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular<br />

activities are on offer including Bilingual<br />

programs.<br />

Renaissance International School<br />

74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7<br />

Tel: 3773 3171<br />

www.rissaigon.edu.vn<br />

IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international<br />

schools operating within the framework<br />

of the British system. RISS provide a<br />

high quality English medium education in<br />

a stimulating, challenging and supportive<br />

environment. The purpose built, modern<br />

campus has excellent facilities.<br />

RMIT<br />

702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7<br />

Tel: 3776 1369<br />

Australian university located in District 7,<br />

offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate<br />

courses in various fields.<br />

Saigon South International School<br />

Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7<br />

Tel: 5413 0901<br />

www.ssis.edu.vn<br />

An International school environment offering<br />

an American/international program<br />

in a large, spacious campus, to children<br />

from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities,<br />

extra-curricular activities and internationally<br />

trained teachers giving unique opportunities<br />

to learn.<br />

Saigon Star International School<br />

172 Nguyen Van Thu, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 0341<br />

www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn<br />

Offers a British primary curriculum approved<br />

by Cambridge University and integrated<br />

Montessori programme for nursery<br />

and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced<br />

teachers and small class sizes cater to<br />

individual needs and abilities.<br />

Singapore International School (SIS)<br />

No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential<br />

Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh<br />

Chanh District<br />

Tel: 5431 7477<br />

www.kinderworld.net<br />

Students play and learn in an environment<br />

where the best of Western and Eastern<br />

cultures amalgamate to prepare Kinder-<br />

World’s students for today’s challenging<br />

world drawn from both the Singapore and<br />

Australian curriculum. The school offers<br />

International Certifications such as the<br />

iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.<br />

Smartkids<br />

1172 Thao Dien Compound, Thao Dien<br />

Ward, D2 Tel: 3744 6076<br />

www.smartkidsinfo.com<br />

International child care centre offers day<br />

care and pre-school to children from 18<br />

months to 6 years old. Fun and friendly<br />

environment focuses on learning through<br />

play.<br />

ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Diamond Plaza<br />

34 Le Duan, D1<br />

The top floor arcade and bowling alley is<br />

bound to keep your little ones entertained<br />

for hours with an impressive array of<br />

video games. Some child-friendly dining<br />

options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a<br />

KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream<br />

concession.<br />

Gymboree Play & Music<br />

Somerset Chancellor Court<br />

21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

Tel: 3827 7008<br />

www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn<br />

The Gymboree Play & Music offers<br />

children from newborn to 5 years old the<br />

opportunity to explore, learn and play in an<br />

innovative parent-child programmes.<br />

Parkson Plaza<br />

39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Arcade game after arcade game line the<br />

top floor here with a bowling alley and a<br />

decent food court thrown in on the floor<br />

below. A good place to take the kids after<br />

trawling through Parkson’s numerous<br />

concession stands.<br />

Vincom Center<br />

72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3936 9999<br />

A six-storey shopping centre that houses<br />

the world’s most famous luxury brands<br />

plus more than 250 fashion retailers and<br />

various restaurants. Each level has a coffee<br />

corner to help weary shoppers recoup<br />

while looking over the city. Open daily from<br />

9 am to 10 pm.<br />

PARTIES<br />

Beatrice’s Party Shop<br />

235 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

A lovely little shop selling everything you<br />

need to throw your little ones a good party.<br />

A catalogue of entertainers showcases a<br />

number of party favourites such as magicians,<br />

circuses and more.<br />

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong<br />

131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

A curious shop stocking a range of handmade<br />

fancy dress costumes such as<br />

masks, superman outfits and much more.<br />

The stock changes seasonally, so this is<br />

a good place to stock up on Halloween,<br />

Christmas and other holiday-specific party<br />

costumes. Prices are also on the cheap.<br />

The Balloon Man<br />

Tel: 3990 3560<br />

Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons.<br />

Great service has earned this chap<br />

a reputation around town for turning up<br />

almost instantly with a superb selection of<br />

balloons. Also provides helium balloons.<br />

90 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 91


ask auntie emily<br />

Coaxing Coordination<br />

By Emily Huckson<br />

Dear Auntie Em: My 4-year-old<br />

son’s hand-eye coordination<br />

seems to be underdeveloped.<br />

He gets very frustrated when<br />

trying to write his name or use<br />

a paintbrush. Do you have any<br />

ideas on how to improve these<br />

skills?<br />

- Catch The Ball!<br />

Dear CTB: When in doubt<br />

about your child’s abilities, the<br />

very first thing to do is make<br />

sure they are physically and<br />

mentally capable, so go and<br />

see a doctor.<br />

Assuming everything is OK,<br />

remember that the general<br />

list of development stages for<br />

children is just that—a general<br />

list. Not every child will develop<br />

at the same rate. The goal of<br />

both parents and teachers is<br />

to understand the capabilities<br />

and needs of the individual and<br />

use strategies that will lead to<br />

success.<br />

Your son is having problems<br />

with holding pencils and other<br />

tools. Are they the wrong size?<br />

Beginning with fatter crayons,<br />

pencils and brushes and then<br />

moving on to finer ones will<br />

give your son more confidence.<br />

Check with his teacher<br />

to make sure there is an assortment<br />

of sizes available at<br />

school.<br />

Weak pincer muscles (the<br />

area between the thumb and<br />

forefinger) may be the problem.<br />

There are many games you<br />

can play with your son that<br />

will strengthen them. Grasping<br />

and manipulating games<br />

in particular are great, as are<br />

sorting activities. Recently I<br />

found a variety of cute animalshaped<br />

plastic clothes pegs at<br />

a CitiMart that are perfect for<br />

sorting. Pegging items onto<br />

a line will also strengthen his<br />

pincer muscles. Playdough is<br />

also a great way to strengthen<br />

that area. Eventually you could<br />

move up to modelling clay,<br />

which is a bit more difficult<br />

to manipulate. Making bread<br />

together is a great activity, too,<br />

as he'll use these muscles to<br />

knead the dough.<br />

Try puzzles that have a little<br />

grasping knob on each piece.<br />

These are great for encouraging<br />

hand-eye coordination.<br />

Most early learning classrooms<br />

should have a variety of them.<br />

Ask to borrow one or two of<br />

the simpler ones, and each<br />

time your child accomplishes<br />

one, borrow another more difficult<br />

puzzle.<br />

I may get some flack about<br />

this, but video games are also<br />

excellent for honing hand-eye<br />

coordination. Choose games<br />

that are age-appropriate and<br />

educational.<br />

Another hint that a mother<br />

shared with me: Teach your<br />

child how to use chopsticks.<br />

She attests that it not only<br />

improved her son’s hand-eye<br />

coordination and dexterity,<br />

but was also a fun learning<br />

experience.<br />

Last, but not least, always<br />

remember to give your child<br />

plenty of encouragement and<br />

praise!<br />

Email your questions about<br />

childhood development to<br />

auntie-em@asialifehcmc.<br />

com<br />

listings<br />

living<br />

BUSINESS GROUPS<br />

AmCham<br />

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1<br />

Business Centre, Room 323<br />

Tel: 3824 3562<br />

www.amchamvietnam.com<br />

AusCham<br />

TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh<br />

Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74<br />

www.auschamvn.org<br />

British Business Group of Vietnam<br />

25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430<br />

execmgr@bbgv.org<br />

www.bbgv.org<br />

CanCham<br />

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1<br />

Business Centre, Room 305<br />

Tel: 3824 3754<br />

www.canchamvietnam.org<br />

Eurocham<br />

257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh<br />

Tel: 3845 5528<br />

www.eurochamvn.org<br />

German Business Group<br />

21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

www.gba-vietnam.org<br />

Singapore Business Group<br />

Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,<br />

D1 Tel: 3823 3046<br />

www.sbghcmc.org<br />

Swiss Business Association<br />

42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 6996<br />

Fax: 3744 6990<br />

Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn<br />

www.swissvietnam.com<br />

Hong Kong Business Association<br />

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1<br />

Business Centre, Room 322<br />

Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888<br />

www.hkbav.com<br />

NordCham<br />

Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 5423<br />

www.nordcham.com<br />

CAMERAS<br />

Hung Hai<br />

75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1<br />

A good place to purchase hard-to-find<br />

gear and some rare equipment, mainly<br />

auto focus lenses.<br />

Le Duc<br />

5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3<br />

A shop for all your professional accessory<br />

needs. From lighting equipment to tripods<br />

and reflectors, the shop offers the best<br />

equipment and service in HCM City.<br />

Pham The<br />

11 Le Cong Kieu, D1<br />

An authorized service centre for Nikon<br />

camera that also specializes in repairing all<br />

camera makes. Measurement equipment<br />

and spare parts also available.<br />

Shop 46<br />

46 Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

Small shop run by photographer and<br />

collector. The owner’s more collectible<br />

pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual<br />

focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are<br />

affordable.<br />

COMPUTERS<br />

Computer Street<br />

Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen<br />

Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai<br />

This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to<br />

wall with small shops selling computers,<br />

printers, monitors and everything computer<br />

related, more so toward the NTMK<br />

end of the drag.<br />

iCenter<br />

142A Vo Thi Sau, D3<br />

Tel: 3820 3918<br />

Professional, polished Apple retailer<br />

and repair centre with an attractive<br />

showroom featuring some of the latest in<br />

accessories and audio. English-speakers<br />

on staff. Honours Apple service plans.<br />

Future World<br />

240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3<br />

Authorized reseller of Apple computers<br />

and products, as well as some off-brand<br />

items like headphones. Excellent service<br />

and English-speaking staff. Accepts<br />

credit cards.<br />

Phong Vu Computer<br />

264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

Tel: 3933 0762<br />

www.vitinhphongvu.com<br />

The biggest and busiest of the PC<br />

stores in town. Known for good, efficient<br />

service, in-house maintenance and aftersales<br />

repair on the second floor.<br />

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon<br />

96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1<br />

www.vtsaigon.com<br />

A superb place with an excellent<br />

reputation for after-sales service with<br />

competent English speaking staff and<br />

a wide range of products and services.<br />

Freeware and shareware also available<br />

on the store website.<br />

CONSULTING<br />

Concetti<br />

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480<br />

www.concetti-vn.com<br />

Consulting and research company for<br />

technology transfer and investment.<br />

Embers-Asia Ltd.<br />

Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan<br />

Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163<br />

www.embers-asia.com<br />

With a focus on experiential learning,<br />

Embers-Asia has been creating and<br />

delivering high-performance training and<br />

development solutions for<br />

corporations, embassies, international<br />

schools and NGOs throughout Southeast<br />

Asia since 2002.<br />

Ernst & Young<br />

Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A<br />

Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252<br />

www.ey.com<br />

Professional service firm specializing in<br />

advisory, assurance, tax, transactions<br />

and strategic growth markets.<br />

Flamingo Corporate Services<br />

Indochina Park Tower, Room 606,<br />

4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1<br />

Tel: 2240 9662<br />

Email: info@flamingovn.com<br />

www.flamingovn.com<br />

Specializes in business immigration,<br />

providing services like visas, work and<br />

resident permits, police clearance, APEC<br />

cards, authentication and legalization of<br />

work experience certificates and degrees<br />

in Vietnam and abroad.<br />

Grant Thornton<br />

Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc<br />

Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100<br />

www.gt.com.vn<br />

International business advisors specializing<br />

in auditing, management consulting,<br />

corporate finance, risk management and<br />

information technology.<br />

92 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 93


finance<br />

Swim with the Fishes<br />

By Paul McLardie<br />

The holiday is over and<br />

it's back to work. I’ve just<br />

returned from a great week in<br />

Nha Trang learning to dive. As<br />

this was the first time for me,<br />

I found it amazing. But it also<br />

got me thinking. Why do small<br />

fish protect themselves like<br />

they do, and can we learn any<br />

financial lessons from them?<br />

Schooling. Small fish group<br />

together in a school to protect<br />

themselves from larger predators.<br />

They swim around with<br />

no real direction or leadership.<br />

In these collective groups,<br />

they feel safer than they<br />

would out on their own.<br />

In investment terms,<br />

schooling can be seen as following<br />

the crowd rather than<br />

stepping out on your own.<br />

This can be dangerous, as<br />

you are putting your trust in<br />

others who know and maybe<br />

understand less than you do.<br />

These are the people who<br />

sit down with friends over a<br />

beer and listen to investment<br />

tips and advice. It goes up,<br />

down and round in circles.<br />

Not a very stable investment<br />

environment.<br />

Anemones. Instead of<br />

schooling, clown fish of Finding<br />

Nemo fame swim inside<br />

the tentacles of anemones for<br />

protection. By using a large<br />

hiding place, the clown fish<br />

can get on with their lives<br />

not having to worry much<br />

about larger predators. This<br />

may not seem like such a<br />

grand gathering, but using<br />

the established anemones<br />

as protection reduces each<br />

clown fish's risk.<br />

The anemone is the large<br />

financial institution offering<br />

different types of investment<br />

and savings products to meet<br />

your individual needs. It offers<br />

knowledge, protection and<br />

most of all, flexibility. It allows<br />

individual investors to change<br />

their plans as and when<br />

needed.<br />

Cleaner Fish. Everyone<br />

needs cleaning once in a<br />

while, even fish. Cleaner fish<br />

stay close to larger predators,<br />

cleaning the parts that<br />

the bigger fish can’t get to.<br />

Big risk for a small fish. The<br />

predator can eat them whenever<br />

it wants, but the small<br />

cleaner fish know this is the<br />

risk they need to take.<br />

In investments, cleaner<br />

fish are people who are not<br />

deterred by the risk of an<br />

investment. They only see the<br />

reward at the end. It can be<br />

considered very short-sighted<br />

to lay all your investments<br />

in high risk areas, but the<br />

rewards can be spectacular.<br />

You just need to be aware<br />

that your money may get<br />

consumed without any prior<br />

warning.<br />

So what sort of fish are<br />

you? To me, it’s always best<br />

to find your inner Nemo.<br />

Paul McLardie is a partner<br />

at Total Wealth Management.<br />

Contact him at Paul.<br />

mclardie@t-wm.com.<br />

IF Consulting<br />

IBC Building, 3rd Floor<br />

1A Me Linh Square, D1<br />

4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu<br />

Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi<br />

Tel: 3827 7362<br />

Fax: 3827 7361<br />

Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com<br />

Private insurance and finance.<br />

Indochine Councel<br />

Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 9640<br />

www.indochinecounsel.com<br />

Business law firm specializing in legal<br />

services to corporate clients in relation to<br />

their business and investment in Vietnam.<br />

Inspired Image<br />

42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1<br />

Tel: 091 635 2573<br />

www.inspiredimage.co.uk<br />

Image consultant and personal stylist.<br />

Previous clients include business leaders,<br />

TV presenters and busy professionals.<br />

Phuong Nguyen Consulting<br />

TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen<br />

Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391<br />

www.pnp-consulting.com<br />

Specializing in business facilitation,<br />

conferences, education counselling,<br />

market-entry research and IT/business<br />

consulting.<br />

Rouse & Co. International<br />

Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,<br />

D1 Tel: 3823 6770<br />

www.iprights.com<br />

Global intellectual property firm providing<br />

a full range of IP services including patent<br />

and trade mark agency services.<br />

Star Management Limited<br />

92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765<br />

www.starlimited.com<br />

Business advisory services for companies<br />

investing in Vietnam, business project<br />

advancement and a range of business<br />

development services.<br />

Total Wealth Management<br />

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thac, D3<br />

Tel: 3820 0623<br />

www.t-wm.com<br />

Specialists in selecting and arranging<br />

tax-efficient savings and pension plans<br />

for expatriates. Offers councel on private<br />

banking services, wealth protection in<br />

offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and<br />

hedging strategies.<br />

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly<br />

Watson Wyatt and SMART HR)<br />

Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite<br />

808, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 9488<br />

Global HR consulting firm specializing in<br />

executive compensation, talent management,<br />

employee rewards and surveys,<br />

HR effectiveness and technology, data<br />

services and total rewards surveys.<br />

DECOR<br />

Antique Street<br />

Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between<br />

Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh<br />

A variety of antiques and faux antiques<br />

from Thailand, China and Vietnam<br />

including silverware, compasses, lighters,<br />

brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses,<br />

religious and pagan statues, candlestick<br />

holders, furniture and watches.<br />

Anupa Boutique<br />

84 Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3915 1473<br />

Retails in unique and affordable range<br />

of console and coffee tables, trays,<br />

mirrors and lamps in a range of different<br />

textures such as leather resin, bamboo<br />

and walnut.<br />

Asian Fish<br />

34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1<br />

Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling<br />

locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed<br />

by the Japanese owner. Products<br />

include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals,<br />

chopsticks and jewellery.<br />

Aquarium Street<br />

Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo<br />

Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang<br />

Dedicated street has everything one<br />

needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed,<br />

filters and the fish themselves.<br />

Budget Housewares Street<br />

Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh<br />

Chieu<br />

Stock up on shower heads, kitchen<br />

supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.),<br />

coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans,<br />

champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash<br />

bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and<br />

the like.<br />

Chau Loan<br />

213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991<br />

Gallery based in a colonial shophouse<br />

stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil<br />

paintings and images of Buddha. Also<br />

deals in better-known reproductions.<br />

Decosy<br />

112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917<br />

Producer of a large selection of European<br />

styled furniture and interior fittings,<br />

specializing in wrought iron and patine<br />

(distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks<br />

a wide-range of decorative accessories,<br />

crockery and fixtures. Custom design<br />

services available upon request.<br />

Dogma<br />

175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488<br />

www.dogmavietnam.com<br />

Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this<br />

art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda<br />

posters, apparel, accessories and<br />

random paraphernalia. Large prints are<br />

sold at USD $60 each and small prints<br />

cost $25.<br />

Minh Boutique<br />

15 Nguyen Thiep, D1<br />

Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot<br />

warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking<br />

sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells<br />

a range of silverware, egg holders and<br />

ice tongs.<br />

OUT-2 STUDIO<br />

L6 Fafilm annex<br />

6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056<br />

STUDIO@OUT-2.com<br />

www.out-2.com<br />

Studio space for independent designers<br />

to showcas their wares, sell their work<br />

and meet with clients. Open Monday t<br />

Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.<br />

Phuong Mai<br />

213C Dong Khoi<br />

www.phuongmai-gallery.com<br />

Gallery specializing in original oils by<br />

Vietnamese artists. The works here are a<br />

mish-mash of styles but do contain some<br />

standouts, particularly well-known local<br />

artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.<br />

Sapa<br />

125 Ho Tung Mau, D1<br />

Offers a better selection of hill tribe<br />

handicrafts than most of its rivals.<br />

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven<br />

clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of<br />

the region. There is also a line in ladies’<br />

shoes and the standard range of silk<br />

wraps and bags.<br />

Son & Then Photogallery<br />

94 Mac Dinh Chi, D1<br />

Adorning the walls of this gallery-cumcafé<br />

are a number of photographs by<br />

local photographers mostly focusing on<br />

tasteful female nudes. Smaller prints start<br />

at USD $20 while larger works can reach<br />

$500. Framing, consulting and delivery<br />

services are also available.<br />

Vietnam-Quilts<br />

64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119<br />

www.mekong-quilts.org<br />

NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and<br />

sells a range of appealing handmade<br />

products created by underprivileged<br />

women in Binh Thuan Province.<br />

ELECTRONICS<br />

Hi End Audio<br />

84 Ho Tung Mau, D1<br />

A standout that stocks the very latest and<br />

greatest in home entertainment. Retails in<br />

everything from giant plasma-screen TVs<br />

to audio equipment. Most top brands are<br />

available.<br />

iDEAS Shopping Centre<br />

133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3<br />

The largest of the electonics stores<br />

along the street, the three-storey iDEAS<br />

sells every type of electronic and home<br />

appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties.<br />

Staff speaks some English.<br />

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre<br />

63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 1211<br />

www.nguyenkim.com<br />

Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras,<br />

TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo,<br />

Panasonic, Philips and other major<br />

manufacturers. Also a good place to pick<br />

up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee<br />

makers and rice cookers, as well as large<br />

and small appliances, from hot water<br />

heaters to regrigerators.<br />

Phong Vu<br />

125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1<br />

Tel: 6290 8777<br />

www.vitinphongvu.com<br />

Two-storey electronics store retails in<br />

international products conveniently<br />

grouped by brand. Carries computers,<br />

home audio, printers, hard drives<br />

and more, as well as a variety of mobile<br />

phones, handheld electronic devices and<br />

accessories.<br />

Savico<br />

117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993<br />

One-stop electronics and home appliance<br />

superstore. All products have a one<br />

to three-year warranty.<br />

Tech Street<br />

Huyen Thuc Khang Street between Ton<br />

That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic<br />

money counters, video games and<br />

systems, Discmans, mp3 players and<br />

portable DVD players.<br />

FURNITURE<br />

Appeal<br />

41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258<br />

A small, upscale shop that offers modern<br />

accents for the sleek dining room. The<br />

colours of the over-sized vases and<br />

fruit bowls are either glistening red or<br />

lacquered black.<br />

AustinHome<br />

20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023<br />

Outstanding quality and style for your<br />

home. The shop says its products are<br />

hand-picked by an American furniture<br />

expert from the best factories in Vietnam.<br />

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and<br />

more.<br />

Catherine Denoual<br />

15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394<br />

Beautiful showroom with clean lines and<br />

a sumptuous array of bedroom products<br />

including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases<br />

and duvet covers.<br />

Decosy<br />

112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917<br />

Producer of a large selection of European<br />

styled furniture and interior fittings,<br />

specializing in wrought iron and patine<br />

(distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks<br />

a wide-range of decorative accessories,<br />

crockery and fixtures. Custom design<br />

services available upon request.<br />

El Gallery<br />

23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306<br />

Traditional decor with a modern twist.<br />

Offers a variety of mid- to high-range<br />

furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessories<br />

from around the world, plus interior<br />

design services. Also imports furniture<br />

to Vietnam for export to Europe and the<br />

United States.<br />

Esthetic<br />

2B Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3910 1996/7<br />

Design and manufacture as order with a<br />

mixture of antique and modern furniture.<br />

Friendly staff speak excellent English.<br />

Furniture Outlet<br />

3A Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104<br />

Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully<br />

constructed pine wood pieces at<br />

good prices, aimed at customers craving<br />

a taste of Europe.<br />

Furniture Street<br />

Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To<br />

and Nguyen Chi Thanh<br />

Very affordable furniture can be found on<br />

this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks,<br />

chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to<br />

find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba<br />

Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.<br />

Gaya<br />

1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495<br />

www.gayavietnam.com<br />

Four-floor store featuring the work of<br />

foreign designers: home accessories and<br />

outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston,<br />

Established since 2001<br />

Design, Interior/External Decorations of High Quality Wood Products<br />

Manufacturing for Export, Construction Projects, Retails,...<br />

Copy-Antique Productions, Modern Designs and Made to order<br />

More than 10 years experience<br />

Devoted premium services/after sales services, every time, every where<br />

linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda,<br />

furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh,<br />

laquerware decor by Michele De Albert<br />

and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.<br />

Linh’s White<br />

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863<br />

Furniture shop that focuses on solid<br />

wood furniture and decorative items<br />

ranging from pillows and lamps to<br />

bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and<br />

custom pieces.<br />

Mantra<br />

84 Pho Duc Chinh, D1<br />

Tel: 3915 1473<br />

www.mantravietnam.com<br />

Tables, photo frames, trays, stools are<br />

just some of the elegant vivekkevin items<br />

you will find at Mantra. If you’re looking<br />

for items that use Vietnamese materials<br />

but have a modern contemporary feel,<br />

Mantra is it. New items received daily.<br />

Rare Decor<br />

41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284<br />

137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh<br />

Tel: 3840 6304/5<br />

Leading home furnishings company in<br />

Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique<br />

products. Also offer custom made<br />

furniture, accessories and lighting for<br />

commercial projects and home use.<br />

Remix Deco<br />

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3<br />

Tel: 3930 4190<br />

www.remixdeco.com<br />

Boutique furniture store in sprawling white<br />

with modern furniture including sofas,<br />

tables and seating from around the world.<br />

Featured designers include Le Corbusier,<br />

Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck<br />

and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.<br />

Shop 63<br />

63 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 3898 2821<br />

Large, serene antique shop specializing in<br />

furniture in French colonial, Asian and art<br />

deco styles, as well as lamps, vases and<br />

other home décor from around the world.<br />

Also carries small collection of original<br />

paintings, fashion and jewellery.<br />

The Furniture Warehouse<br />

3B Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

Tel: 6657 0788<br />

namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@<br />

webtnl.com<br />

Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian,<br />

European and French colonial sofas,<br />

indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting<br />

and interior décor, as well as custom<br />

designs based on clients’ specifications.<br />

All at international quality export.<br />

The Lost Art<br />

31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1<br />

Tel: 3829 0134<br />

Extensive product range as well as<br />

comprehensive interior design service,<br />

from initial conceptualization to design,<br />

manufacture and installation of unique<br />

products.<br />

The Sixty Three<br />

63 Xuan Thuy Ward, Thao DIen, D2<br />

Tel: 0938 485 211<br />

www.let-us-do.com<br />

New show room concept store of architectural<br />

and interior design collective ‘Let<br />

Us Do.' Specializes in unique and original<br />

furnitures, interior decoration, lamps and<br />

women’s fashion and jewellery.<br />

Thien An Furniture<br />

90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1<br />

Tel: 3910 5650<br />

A range of beautiful furniture with a<br />

distinct traditional flavor from colourful<br />

silk lampshades, wooden carved beds,<br />

screens, chests and more.<br />

LEGAL<br />

Allens Arthur Robinson<br />

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 1717<br />

www.vietnamlaws.com<br />

Australian law firm for law translation<br />

services and legal advice on foreign<br />

investment and business in Vietnam.<br />

Baker & McKenzie<br />

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3829 5585<br />

www.bakernet.com<br />

International law firm providing on-theground<br />

liaison and support services<br />

to clients interested in investigating,<br />

negotiating and implementing projects<br />

in Vietnam.<br />

Frasers International<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Tel: 3824 2733<br />

www.frasersvn.com<br />

Full service commercial law firm providing<br />

international and Vietnamese legal advice<br />

to both foreign and local clients specializing<br />

in transactions in Vietnam.<br />

Indochine Counsel<br />

Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 9640<br />

www.indochinecounsel.com<br />

Business law practitioners specializing<br />

in mergers & acquistions, inward investment,<br />

and securities & capital markets.<br />

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville<br />

Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1<br />

2B Ngo Van Nam, Dist.1, HCMC<br />

(Near the Mandarine restaurant)<br />

Tel: (84 8) 3910 1996 / 97 –<br />

Fax: (84 8) 3910 1995<br />

Hot line: Ms. Nhat Thu Director - 0903 849 232<br />

Email: esthetic@vnn.vn<br />

Website: www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn<br />

94 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 95


Tel: 6291 7000<br />

www.limcharoen.com<br />

Full service international law firm with<br />

head office in Thailand. Main focus on<br />

real estate in Asia.<br />

Lucy Wayne & Associates<br />

17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 4395<br />

www.lwavietnam.com<br />

Law firm providing legal services across<br />

the board from entertainment and<br />

environmental law to health care and real<br />

estate.<br />

Phillips Fox<br />

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 1717<br />

Full service law firm providing legal<br />

services in healthcare, education, crime,<br />

banking and hospitality among others.<br />

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal<br />

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1<br />

Tel: 3823 0796<br />

www.pwc.com/vn<br />

Part of a network of international legal<br />

and financial advisors, PWC gives both<br />

specialist and general legal advice with a<br />

focus on mutli-territory projects.<br />

Rödl & Partner<br />

Somerset Chancellor Court<br />

21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

Tel: 3824 4225<br />

www.roedl.com<br />

European legal firm assisting foreign<br />

investors with structuring/establishing<br />

companies, investment projects, and<br />

mergers & acquistions.<br />

LIGHTING<br />

Caodong Design Boutique<br />

37bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1<br />

207L Vo Thi Sau, D3<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Spanking new store with a range of<br />

beautiful items ranging from interesting<br />

lighting with decorative table lamps with<br />

hand-painted paper shades and some<br />

lovely leather boxes and gift ideas.<br />

Light House<br />

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1<br />

Tel: 3914 2662<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Small retail shop is packed with ceiling<br />

and wall light fixtures, and a good selection<br />

of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of<br />

the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.<br />

Luxury Light<br />

1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh,<br />

Phu My Hung, D7<br />

For those who really want to bring a<br />

touch of luxury to their homes, this place<br />

deals with Italian imported lighting from<br />

the ultra - modern to the traditional<br />

Murano style chandeliers. Extremely<br />

expensive reflecting the quality of the<br />

design and workmanship.<br />

Mosaique<br />

98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1<br />

One of the best and most diverse selections<br />

of lamps in town with everything<br />

from the ordinary decorative lotus silk<br />

lamp to more inventive and original<br />

designs in lacquer and silk.<br />

Treasure Light<br />

18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 4315<br />

www.treasure-light.com<br />

High-end lighting shop specialising in fine<br />

lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated<br />

and minimilast. Wide selection of<br />

table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and<br />

ceiling lamps.<br />

MOTORBIKES<br />

Automotive Street<br />

Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien<br />

Bien Phu and running southeast<br />

Services include mending motorbike<br />

seats and sound system installation.<br />

Products range from zebra print motorbike<br />

seat covers to car and motorbike<br />

tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and<br />

sound systems by Xplode.<br />

Bike City<br />

480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7<br />

Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range<br />

of accessories, including apparel. Sells<br />

Vemar helmets, a brand that passes<br />

rigorous European Union standards.<br />

Protec Helmets<br />

18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1<br />

248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan<br />

417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3<br />

American nonprofit manufacturer makes<br />

helmets with densely compressed polystyrene<br />

shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass<br />

exterior, available with polycarbonate<br />

shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for<br />

kids.<br />

Zeus Helmets<br />

Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool,<br />

comfortable helmets that meet worldwide<br />

safety standards. Basic models feature<br />

thermo-injected shells constructed from<br />

lightweight ABS composite with interiors<br />

lined with moisture-absorbant brushed<br />

nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus<br />

helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai<br />

near Ben Thanh Market.<br />

REAL ESTATE<br />

CB Richard Ellis<br />

Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1<br />

Tel: 3824 6125<br />

www.cbre.com<br />

International property consultants and<br />

developers with both commercial and<br />

private properties for sale, lease and rent.<br />

Chamber Property Consultants<br />

Tel: 0168 349 9991<br />

www.chamberproperty.com<br />

Chamber Property Consultancy has more<br />

than 100 houses and flats available for<br />

rent in HCMC. Contact them today for<br />

more information.<br />

Diamond Plaza<br />

34 Le Duan Street<br />

Tel: 3822 1922<br />

lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn<br />

Located in the heart of District 1, connected<br />

to Diamond PLaza. Services<br />

1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym,<br />

swimming pool and panoramic views of<br />

the city.<br />

EasySaigon.com<br />

www.easysaigon.com<br />

Real estate website helps expats find<br />

apartments in HCMC.<br />

InterContinental Asiana Saigon<br />

Residences<br />

Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du,<br />

D1 Tel: 3520 8888<br />

saigon@interconti.com<br />

www.intercontinental.com/saigonres<br />

Contemporary residential space in the<br />

heart of the major business and cultural<br />

area in District 1. There are 260 one, two<br />

or three-bedroom units plus health club<br />

and outdoor swimming pool.<br />

Namhouse Corporation<br />

24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2<br />

Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511<br />

www.namhouse.com.vn<br />

Provides rental properties, construction<br />

services and interior decorating. Supports<br />

professional services and after-sales.<br />

The Nest<br />

Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence)<br />

Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong)<br />

laurence@thenest-vietnam.com<br />

thuong@thenest-vietnam.com<br />

www.thenest-vietnam.com<br />

Real estate agent maintains a well-organized<br />

and frequently updated website<br />

listing apartments, villas, townhouses<br />

condos and offices. Renters/buyers can<br />

receive regular updates via email.<br />

Nguyen Du Park Villas<br />

111 Nguyen Du, D1<br />

Tel: 3822 0788<br />

www.ndparkvillas.com.vn<br />

Boutique residence of fully-serviced,<br />

luxury downtown apartments designed<br />

to combine the atmosphere of a villa with<br />

ranges in size from one-bedroom apartments<br />

to four-bedroom duplex units.<br />

Platinum1<br />

Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1<br />

Tel: 3911 8193<br />

www.platinum1corp.com<br />

Your one-stop agency for housing and<br />

office space in the city with pre-viewing<br />

selection before the visit and full support<br />

throughout your lease.<br />

Riverside Apartments<br />

53 Vo Truong Toan, D2<br />

Tel: 3744 4111<br />

www.riverside-apartments.com<br />

One of the first luxury serviced apartments<br />

in town located next to the Saigon<br />

River set in lush tropical gardens.<br />

Saigon Village<br />

523 To Hien Thanh, D10<br />

Tel: 3865 7249<br />

www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn<br />

Fully furnished villas and apartments in<br />

a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off<br />

from the pressures of HCMC.<br />

Savills Viet Nam<br />

Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham<br />

Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205<br />

www.savills.com.vn<br />

Savills Viet Nam is a property service<br />

provider that has been established in<br />

Vietnam since 1995 offering research,<br />

advisory services, residential sales, commercial<br />

leasing, asset management, retail<br />

advisory, valuation, investment advisory<br />

and more.<br />

Hotline: 0917470058<br />

leasing@sherwoodresidence.com<br />

www.sherwoodresidencecom<br />

Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced<br />

apartment property and the first property<br />

certified by the Vietnam National Administration<br />

of Tourism. Modern living spaces<br />

meet prime location, comfort and class<br />

with 5-star facilities and service.<br />

Snap<br />

Tel: 0989 816 676<br />

www.snap.com.vn<br />

Online Real Estate service providing information<br />

on rental properties exclusively in<br />

District 2. Full listings online.<br />

RECRUITMENT<br />

First Alliances<br />

#609, Saigon Trade Center<br />

37 Ton Duc Thang, D1<br />

Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079<br />

www.firstalliances.net<br />

cv@firstalliances.net<br />

As Vietnam’s most established recruitment<br />

consultancy, First Alliances operates<br />

across all major industry sectors and<br />

at all levels of seniority. Also providing<br />

HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and<br />

payroll,overseas employment and education<br />

services.<br />

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC<br />

Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia<br />

Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800<br />

www.hr2b.com<br />

HR consulting advises businesses on<br />

how to improve employee productivity.<br />

The search team specializes in matching<br />

senior level Vietnamese professionals and<br />

managers to top level opportunities in<br />

both major cities.<br />

Mekong Emerald Talent Recruitment<br />

68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1<br />

Tel: 0938 001 509<br />

www.mekongem.com<br />

Offers comprehensive manpower<br />

services including executive search and<br />

selection, employment outsourcing and<br />

HR management in a wide variety of<br />

industries.<br />

Navigos Group<br />

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1<br />

Tel: 3825 5000<br />

www.navigosgroup.com<br />

Recruitment agency offering a complete<br />

portfolio of HR services including<br />

executive search, HR advisory, training,<br />

online recruitment, and print recruitment<br />

advertising.<br />

Opus Vietnam<br />

2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi<br />

Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209<br />

www.opusasia.net<br />

Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services<br />

local and multinational companies<br />

seeking to recruit high quality personnel.<br />

An Associate of Horton International, one<br />

of the world’s leading search groups with<br />

over 30 offices worldwide. For more info<br />

contact info@opusasia.net.<br />

Smart HR<br />

Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai<br />

Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828<br />

www.smarthrvietnam.com<br />

Human resource consultants specialising<br />

in job search and selection, and human<br />

resource management.<br />

TMF Vietnam<br />

Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton<br />

Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222<br />

hang.bui@tmf-group.com<br />

www.tmf-group.com<br />

With more than 3,300 professionals<br />

working out of 86 offices in 65 countries,<br />

TMF provides independent accounting<br />

and corporate secretarial services to<br />

companies worldwide.<br />

Sherwood Residence<br />

127 Pasteur St., D3<br />

Tel: 3823 2288<br />

Fax: 3823 9880<br />

Vietnamworks.com<br />

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1<br />

Tel: 5404 1373<br />

www.vietnamworks.com<br />

96 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 97


people matter<br />

Closing the Deal<br />

By Gary Woollacott<br />

Here’s an often overlooked<br />

aspect of recruitment: closing<br />

the candidate, using the<br />

company’s resources to make<br />

sure that the best candidate<br />

accepts the offer and starts<br />

work. So much effort goes<br />

into identifying the right candidates,<br />

wooing them, creating<br />

exactly the right package and<br />

so on, that some fundamental<br />

elements can still be forgotten<br />

at this critical stage.<br />

Taking the candidate’s point<br />

of view, he or she is going to<br />

be concerned about some<br />

or all of the following: the<br />

extent to which candidate<br />

and employer share common<br />

values and ambitions,<br />

the effect of changing jobs<br />

on the candidate’s home life,<br />

the latitude the candidate will<br />

have on the job, short- and<br />

long-term financial incentives<br />

and company-specific cultural<br />

considerations that will determine<br />

whether the candidate<br />

actually enjoys coming to<br />

work.<br />

An employing manager—or<br />

better yet, his or her superior—who<br />

takes the time to<br />

address each of these points<br />

is going to have a greater success<br />

rate in securing talented<br />

individuals. And, of course,<br />

what the employing manager<br />

tells the potential employee<br />

must be truthful; we have<br />

all heard stories of people<br />

who have been misled at the<br />

recruitment stage.<br />

When the hiring process is<br />

tarnished by mistruths, it won’t<br />

take long for the truth to be<br />

discovered and you may find<br />

that the star recruit quits just<br />

as quickly as he or she arrived.<br />

Worse, the reason for the<br />

sudden departure will spread<br />

around the market. That kind<br />

of gossip doesn't do anyone<br />

any good, and rumours of a<br />

bad employer who misleads<br />

recruits will get around quickly.<br />

This will undoubtedly lead to<br />

difficult times when candidates<br />

refuse point blank to consider<br />

a certain employer: they all<br />

know what happened to their<br />

colleague when he or she<br />

went there. You get the idea.<br />

What it comes down to is<br />

honesty in the recruitment<br />

process. If there are skeletons<br />

in the cupboard, bring them<br />

out and explain them. You<br />

don't want your new recruit to<br />

find out unpleasant history at<br />

the water cooler on his or her<br />

first day. Take the time to bring<br />

people on board properly—<br />

with respect—and you will<br />

have better results. The best<br />

candidates always have other<br />

options. Smart employers<br />

need to make sure they are<br />

the first choice.<br />

As usual, let me know if<br />

you have any particular topic<br />

you would like to see covered<br />

here.<br />

Gary Woollacott is the chief<br />

representative for Opus Executive<br />

Search in Vietnam and<br />

Thailand. He can be reached<br />

at 3827 8209 or via gary@<br />

opusasia.net. Opus is an<br />

associate of Horton International.<br />

Excellent section on advice for jobseekers<br />

focusing on topics such as resume<br />

writing, cover letters, interview technique<br />

and more.<br />

RELOCATION AGENTS<br />

Allied Pickfords<br />

Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi,<br />

D1 Tel: 0122 5141 848<br />

aurelien.jouve@alliedpickfords.com.vn<br />

http://vn.alliedpickfords.com<br />

Moving and relocating services company<br />

specializing in business and office moves.<br />

Overseas and specialist movers also<br />

available.<br />

Asian Tigers Transpo International<br />

Room 201 and 202, 216 Nguyen Thi<br />

Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 9484<br />

Tel: 3945 0891<br />

matt.king@asiantigers-vietnam.com<br />

www.asiantigersgroup.com<br />

International moving agency, homesearch,<br />

orientation, settling in programs and work<br />

permit assistance.<br />

Crown Worldwide Movers<br />

48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh<br />

Tel: 3823 4127<br />

www.crownrelo.com<br />

International moving company serving<br />

diplomats and private customers, employees<br />

and expats, providing domestic and<br />

iternational transportation of household,<br />

office and industrial goods.<br />

JVK International Movers<br />

Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat<br />

Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6<br />

chris.honour@jvkasia.com<br />

www.jvk.com<br />

International agengy with a full range of<br />

services including sea/air freight services<br />

and worldwide transit coverage.<br />

Mekong Emerald (MEK) Relocation<br />

68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1<br />

Tel: 09800 1509<br />

www.mekongem.com<br />

Full range of services including pet move/<br />

care, car rental, pre-move consultation,<br />

cross-cultural training and visa/immigration<br />

support.<br />

Resident Vietnam<br />

187/9/1 Bach Dang Street, Tan Binh<br />

Tel: 3848 8443 / 3848 8285<br />

www.residentvietnam.com<br />

Specializes in immigration management,<br />

destination services and cross-cultural<br />

training and car leasing assistance.<br />

Santa Fe Relocation Services<br />

Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu,<br />

D3 Tel: 3933 0065<br />

www.santaferelo.com<br />

Provides a range of services including<br />

home/school search, language/cultural<br />

training, tenancy management and immigration/visa<br />

support.<br />

STATIONARY<br />

Custom Signage Street<br />

Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and<br />

Nguyen Thai Hoc<br />

Offers custom-designed signs and custom<br />

engraving on trophies and plaques made<br />

of plastic, wood, metal and glass.<br />

Fahasa<br />

40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796<br />

Bookstore chain carries an expansive<br />

stock of office and home stationary; a onestop<br />

shop for basic needs.<br />

Pi-Channel<br />

45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253<br />

www.pi-channel.com<br />

Boutique shop carries up-market collections<br />

of pens and notepads, as well as<br />

desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and<br />

frames. Corporate services offered.<br />

Stationary and Printing Street<br />

Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien<br />

Bien Phu and running southeast<br />

More than 25 stores providing photocopying<br />

services, from business cards to flyers<br />

and colour prints to invitations.<br />

listings<br />

fashion<br />

ACCESSORIES<br />

Accessorize<br />

48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize<br />

Fashion-forward accessories including<br />

necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops,<br />

sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and<br />

more.<br />

Alfred Dunhill<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1<br />

A timeless style in male luxury providing<br />

formal and casual mens accesories<br />

tailored for the discerning man. Also<br />

stocking handcrafted leather goods.<br />

Anupa Boutique<br />

17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307<br />

anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net<br />

The ever-changing boutique retails in<br />

the elegant design of anupa accessories<br />

made from high-quality leather. Collections<br />

available range from men, women,<br />

executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games,<br />

boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery.<br />

Collection changes on weekly basis. Also<br />

carries childrens wear, toys, furniture and<br />

homewares.<br />

Bally<br />

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1<br />

www.experience.bally.com<br />

Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing<br />

luxury Italian-made accessories for men.<br />

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and<br />

a collection of male jewellery.<br />

Banana<br />

128 Ly Tu Trong, D1<br />

Women’s accessories and more, from<br />

bags, clutches and belts to clothes and<br />

jewellery, all at reasonable prices.<br />

Cartier<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan<br />

This well-known designer brand displays<br />

a wide range of accessories for men. Famous<br />

for its watches, Cartier also stocks<br />

pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.<br />

Cincinati<br />

177P Dong Khoi, D1<br />

www.cincinati.vn<br />

info@cincinati.vn<br />

Vietnamese brand of genuine leather<br />

bags, shoes, accessories and personal<br />

goods for men and women such as notebooks<br />

for a classic vagabond look. Quality<br />

leather from crocodile, horse, snake and<br />

fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.<br />

Cleo-Pearls<br />

30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2<br />

Tel: 091 3587 690<br />

Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates<br />

Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in<br />

necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders<br />

and bag accessories. All pieces created<br />

with gemstones, fresh water pearls and<br />

beads.<br />

Coconut<br />

100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1<br />

Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the<br />

roost in this small shop. Made of silk and<br />

embroidered to the brim, these unique<br />

bags start at about USD $30, and many<br />

are suitable for both day and night.<br />

Creation<br />

105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429<br />

A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate<br />

handbags (from USD $30), tailor-made<br />

silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range<br />

of materials on the second floor. Prices<br />

start from $65 for an ao dai with simple<br />

embroidery.<br />

Deanh Jewellery<br />

Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

Tel: 3827 6039<br />

Gorgeous selection of gold accessories<br />

imported from Turkey and Italy. Also has a<br />

selection of simple ring designs to set your<br />

precious stones in.<br />

Gallery vivekkevin<br />

FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1<br />

Tel: 6291 3709<br />

info@vivekkevin.com<br />

www.galeryvivekkevin.com<br />

Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings<br />

and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on<br />

design, craftsmanship and finish, as well<br />

as educating clients on the intricacies of<br />

each piece.<br />

Gucci<br />

88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688<br />

Located on the main shopping street in<br />

HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine<br />

fashion to an array of luxury leather<br />

goods such as briefcases, luggage and a<br />

selection of men’s shoes for office or more<br />

casual occasions.<br />

Ipa-Nima<br />

85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652<br />

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai<br />

Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.<br />

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer<br />

turned designer who produces eclectic<br />

and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks<br />

costume jewellery and shoes.<br />

J. Silver<br />

803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7<br />

Tel: 5411 1188<br />

Make a statement without being ostentatious<br />

with handcrafted silver jewellery from<br />

the boutique store. Expect big, interesting<br />

pieces that are simple yet glamorous.<br />

Laura V Signature<br />

11 Dong Du, D1<br />

Tel: 7304 4126<br />

www.laurav.net<br />

Vintage designs aplenty with everything<br />

from jewellery and hair accessories to<br />

funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and<br />

colourful maxi dresses.<br />

Lovely Lien Jewellery<br />

20 Le Loi, D1<br />

A small and unassuming jewellery store<br />

with beautiful and reasonably-priced<br />

necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You<br />

can also bring your own precious stones<br />

or ask the designers to make something<br />

unique for you.<br />

Louis Vuitton<br />

Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le<br />

Loi Tel: 3827 6318<br />

Designer brand name housing traditional<br />

craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for<br />

men and women. An array of bags, wallets,<br />

cuff links and watches are available.<br />

Mai O Mai<br />

4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007<br />

A superb little place with beautiful jewellery<br />

and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver<br />

necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in<br />

both classic and imaginative designs, as<br />

well as gorgeous hand-embroidered bags.<br />

Mont Blanc<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan<br />

Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont<br />

Blanc also houses cuff links and other<br />

male accessories<br />

Therese Jewellery<br />

Sheraton Hotel, 88F Dong Khoi, D1<br />

www.theresejewelry.com<br />

Small, glitzy retail outlet. Sells everything<br />

from diamond earrings to gold and silver<br />

wedding rings. Of special note is the<br />

selection of jade Buddhas in varying sizes,<br />

with the larger ones costing USD $250.<br />

The friendly staff speak excellent English.<br />

Scorpion<br />

Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh<br />

Ton, D1<br />

Tel: 3993 9889<br />

www.scorpionbag.com<br />

Selling high-end leather products for<br />

both men and women, including shoes,<br />

handbags, belts and other accessories.<br />

Features a variety of leather in bright<br />

colors and styles.<br />

Tic Tac Watch Shop<br />

72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519<br />

www.tictacwatch.com<br />

Elegant show room displaying some<br />

of the world’s most recognized Swiss<br />

brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume &<br />

Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch<br />

repair service and complementary watch<br />

evaluation available. Also carries a small<br />

collection of vintage Rolexes.<br />

Tombo<br />

145 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

Of all the embroidered and sequined bags,<br />

shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that<br />

can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s<br />

has products that are prettier than most.<br />

Shoes can be custom-made and the sales<br />

staff is friendly.<br />

Tumi<br />

Rex Hotel, 151 Nguyen Hue<br />

www.intl.tumi.com<br />

Tumi houses an opulent selection of<br />

Italian-made luggage geared towards<br />

men. Briefcases, messenger bags and<br />

backpacks are among those on display.<br />

Umbrella<br />

35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1<br />

Tel: 6276 2730<br />

www.umbrella-fashion.com<br />

Houses & Villas<br />

For rent in Dist.2, HCM: An Phu,<br />

Thao Dien, & Tran Nao<br />

Save time:<br />

See all pictures<br />

& details online.<br />

Updated daily.<br />

www.snap.com.vn<br />

112 Xuan Thuy<br />

Ward Thao Dien<br />

District 2<br />

Ho Chi Minh City<br />

Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917<br />

shop-hcm@decosy.biz<br />

98 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 99


sartorial conundrums<br />

The Return of the Navy Blazer<br />

By Luis Antonio Torres<br />

Gentlemen, this week I am<br />

answering a question that was<br />

emailed to me on the nature<br />

of the navy blue blazer. The<br />

question: “How do I choose<br />

the proper cut, for example<br />

DB (double-breasted) or SB<br />

(single-breasted)? What is the<br />

real colour navy, and what can<br />

a good blazer be paired with?”<br />

Here are my answers to the<br />

gentleman who wrote in.<br />

Right now, we are being<br />

informed that the best way to<br />

trick out your wardrobe is by<br />

returning to the tried and true.<br />

Serious, stylish clothing with a<br />

slightly dandyish bit of colour<br />

is enjoying an uptick. This includes<br />

dressy dark suits, pinstripes<br />

and double-breasted<br />

silhouettes with elegant and<br />

sophisticated shirts and ties.<br />

About four or five seasons<br />

ago (about a year and a half<br />

in human time), tradition was<br />

still looked on as a commodity<br />

of décor. Now, it seems to be<br />

returning in earnest. Witness<br />

the growing number of blogs<br />

concerned with American Ivy<br />

League style, to name but one<br />

example.<br />

The blazer is back in<br />

fashion and this time around<br />

in decidedly luxury fabrics—<br />

featherweight worsted<br />

cashmeres for those going<br />

for top-shelf quality. Options<br />

are also available in denim,<br />

raw silk, linen and cottons<br />

for the warmer climates. For<br />

those who really are looking<br />

for something smoother and<br />

lighter, 9-ounce versions are<br />

available, although an 8-ounce<br />

tropical hopsack worsted or<br />

fresco (open weave) cloth<br />

can’t be beat.<br />

No question about it, the<br />

blazer is the most international,<br />

civilized, easily adaptable,<br />

all-purpose and essential<br />

tailored garment in the wardrobe.<br />

The multipurpose jacket<br />

can be worn with a classic<br />

polo shirt, jeans and loafers<br />

or with a pristine broadcloth<br />

dress shirt and tie, dark grey<br />

worsteds and suede shoes;<br />

virtually anything in between<br />

works when it comes to the<br />

bottoms: twills, gabardines,<br />

linens, fine whales, khakis.<br />

Regardless on how a man<br />

is going to wear his blazer,<br />

there are three important considerations<br />

to keep in mind<br />

when we’re talking about the<br />

real thing: the fabrics, the cut<br />

and the buttons. Fabrics for<br />

cooler-weather jackets mean<br />

flannel, twill or cashmere. For<br />

warmer weather dressing,<br />

lightweight cashmere, silk,<br />

linen, serge or tropical worsted<br />

weaves. And of course,<br />

the true colour is navy blue.<br />

True navy blue falls between<br />

the almost black of midnight<br />

blue and a simple dark blue.<br />

So the next time you’re out<br />

visiting tailors or searching<br />

for a great blazer, make sure<br />

the tailor knows his cuts and<br />

forms, the fabric compositions<br />

and origins and the quality<br />

and the construction of the<br />

garment.<br />

Luis Antonio Torres is a<br />

designer and the creative<br />

director of Massimo Ferrari<br />

Bespoke. Email your sartorial<br />

conundrums to a.torres@<br />

massimoferraro.com.vn.<br />

Sophisticated boutique showcasing a<br />

diverse range of imported women’s accessories.<br />

Also houses women’s garments<br />

from office wear to cocktail and party<br />

creations.<br />

Luggage Street<br />

Le Lai Street, D1 between Ben Thanh<br />

Market and Truong Dinh.<br />

Duffle bags, backpacks, messenger bags<br />

and carry-on suitcases are all available on<br />

this stretch of District 1.<br />

ACTIVE WEAR<br />

China Beach Surf Club<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1<br />

Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired<br />

brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear<br />

from Volcom. It has everything you’d need<br />

for a visit to the beach and more. There<br />

are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps<br />

and thongs, just to name a few.<br />

Pinko<br />

Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1<br />

Tel: 3827 2240<br />

Spacious and simple store displaying<br />

women’s sportswear imported from Hong<br />

Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume<br />

imported from America.<br />

Roxy and Quiksilver<br />

Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

The original active living and extreme<br />

sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products<br />

combine form and function. Choose<br />

from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.<br />

TBS Sports Centre<br />

102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan<br />

This store stocks a range of good sports<br />

clothes and equipment from big name<br />

brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike<br />

and Converse.<br />

Volcom<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1<br />

Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from<br />

America. Lots of tank tops, minis and<br />

shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or<br />

lazing on the beach.<br />

READY TO WEAR<br />

unisex<br />

2bling<br />

246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan<br />

Specializes in urban streetwear, with a<br />

range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps,<br />

hoodies and more. Tees are both imported<br />

from around Asia and designed in-house.<br />

BAM Skate Shop<br />

174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826<br />

In addition to a range of decks, wheels<br />

and trucks, this small shop is stocked<br />

with bookbags, skate sneakers, track<br />

jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your<br />

skateboard company of choice.<br />

Bo Sua Local Streetwear<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Tel: 3993 9599<br />

www.bosua.vn<br />

An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater<br />

fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this<br />

brand translated as “Cow Milk” features<br />

fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear<br />

and sneakers that celebrate the quirky<br />

street life of Vietnam.<br />

“ello<br />

263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan<br />

This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster<br />

fashion strip is stocked with some of the<br />

coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a<br />

frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts,<br />

skinny pants and women’s tops.<br />

FCUK<br />

127 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Tel: 3914 7740<br />

www.frenchconnection.com<br />

Trendy UK brand with a selection of<br />

fashion-forward dresses for women and<br />

smart workwear and funky casual wear for<br />

men, all at middle-market prices.<br />

Hagattini<br />

1A Pham Ngoc Thach, D1<br />

Tel: 2244 8105<br />

www.hagattini.com<br />

Vietnamese brand housing clothing for all<br />

occasions. Normal to office wear, casual<br />

to party outfits using materials imported<br />

from Hong Kong and designed and made<br />

in Vietnam.<br />

Konheo<br />

32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh<br />

Tel: 6653 4187<br />

info@konheo.com<br />

www.konheo.com<br />

Founded and run by a group of local<br />

Vietnamese guys, this T-shirt store flaunts<br />

simple-cut T-shirts with playful prints and<br />

humorous printed texts. Also does custom<br />

made t-shirts for 160,000 VND.<br />

Levi’s Flagship Store<br />

19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501<br />

The 320-square-metre retail space spread<br />

over three levels offers the city’s largest<br />

and most exclusive collection of Levi’s<br />

bottoms, tops and accessories.<br />

L’Usine<br />

151/1 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period<br />

building restored to evoke the aesthetic<br />

of an early 20th-century garment factory.<br />

Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed<br />

line of imported men’s and women’s fashion,<br />

including T-shirts and footwear, and a<br />

range of unique accessories. Entrance via<br />

the street-level Art Arcade.<br />

Lu.Xu.Bu<br />

320 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan<br />

Well known among the HCMC hipsterati,<br />

this trendy shop is mostly given over to<br />

T-shirts (many by young, Bangkok-based<br />

designers), but also carries jeans, button<br />

shirts and more.<br />

Miss Sixty & Energie<br />

13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1<br />

Local outlet of the Miss Sixty brand hugely<br />

favoured by Hollywood’s young starlets.<br />

Also stocks clothes from its men’s label,<br />

Energie.<br />

Orange<br />

238 Pasteur, D3<br />

Funky little boutique carries unique<br />

accessory pieces a good selection of<br />

T-shirts with quirky, unique graphics for<br />

very reasonable prices. A smaller outpost<br />

is located at the corner of Pasteur and Le<br />

Thanh Ton in District 1.<br />

Rok Factory<br />

382 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan<br />

www.rokexchange.com<br />

Small shop founded by local artist/<br />

photographer carries streetwear for the<br />

rock-oriented lifestyle, including T-shirts,<br />

hoodies, socks and accessories.<br />

Replay<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

116 Nguyen Trai, D1<br />

187 Hai Ba Trung, D3<br />

Tel: 3925 0252<br />

Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for<br />

teens and university-age men and women.<br />

Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers<br />

at mid-range prices.<br />

Runway<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Tel: 3993 9988<br />

runway.sg@global-fashion.vn<br />

Massive and minimalist design-led interior<br />

lets ultra high-end designer garments<br />

stand out. Carries men's, women's and<br />

children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories<br />

along with home décor. Brands<br />

include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga,<br />

Sergio Rossi and Eres.<br />

See By Harajuku<br />

130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3<br />

Tel: 090 986 8622<br />

Small, friendly store stocking both men’s<br />

and women’s streetwear, channelling Japanese<br />

and Korean fashion trends. Bright<br />

and funky T-shirts and maxi dresses, as<br />

well as accessories and footwear. New<br />

stock every month.<br />

Versace<br />

26 Dong Khoi<br />

Designer brand in men’s formal wear.<br />

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts<br />

as well as an array of men’s accessories.<br />

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.<br />

VOV<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan<br />

www.vovietchung.com<br />

Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of<br />

Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is<br />

known for blending traditional form with<br />

contemporary cuts, colours and textures.<br />

men<br />

Lucas<br />

69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670<br />

Fashion store housing contemporary<br />

designs in casual, office and evening wear<br />

imported from Hong Kong.<br />

Massimo Ferrari<br />

42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3<br />

Tel: 3930 6212<br />

Bespoke menswear shop also boasts<br />

its own brand of contemporary preppy<br />

attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a<br />

line of European-quality shoes, bags and<br />

accessories designed in-house, as well as<br />

exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer<br />

fragrances and eyewear.<br />

Mattre<br />

19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412<br />

This local men’s clothes shop has some<br />

funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward<br />

males. Apparel in sizes that fit<br />

the typical Western man’s frame are often<br />

available. Another store is located on Hai<br />

Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong<br />

Milano<br />

Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi<br />

www.milanogoods.com<br />

A conjoining shop with D&G offering a<br />

selection of men’s shoes and accessories<br />

with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G<br />

provides a collection of menswear, from<br />

casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely<br />

designed suit jackets.<br />

Mizada<br />

150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508<br />

mizada07@yahoo.com<br />

An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing<br />

with an influx of new fashion arriving on<br />

the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual<br />

shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well<br />

as bags and scarves.<br />

New Urban Male<br />

226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416<br />

www.newurbanmale.com<br />

Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes<br />

from beach duds to streetwear. The goods<br />

include international men’s brands such as<br />

Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel<br />

Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s<br />

grooming products.<br />

Timberland<br />

Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Sells everything the brand is known<br />

for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and<br />

trousers that are both smart and casual.<br />

The emphasis is on muted tones and<br />

unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like<br />

to show off.<br />

women<br />

Axara<br />

Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh<br />

Ton, D1<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

21 Nguyen Trai, D1<br />

Tel: 3993 9399<br />

www.axara.com<br />

Carries women’s clothing suitable for<br />

work, weekends or evening. Luxurious<br />

fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at<br />

reasonable prices. Also carries handbags<br />

and accessories.<br />

Balenciaga<br />

Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue<br />

Tel: 6291 3572<br />

Sporting modern shapes and elegant<br />

items crafted from natural, raw and<br />

artificial materials.<br />

BCBGMAXAZRIA<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

American brand sells women’s day<br />

dresses and tops, evening gowns and<br />

wear-to-work attire in many prints and<br />

colours. Also carries a small selection of<br />

accessories, sunglasses and watches.<br />

Bebe<br />

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Tel: 3914 4011<br />

www.bebe.com<br />

An international brand that specializes<br />

in contemporary, modern tees and sexy,<br />

elegant dresse, tops and party attire.<br />

Bon Mua Boutique<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Tel: 3993 9888<br />

www.itamoda.com.vn<br />

Luxury women’s clothing store with racks<br />

organized by designer. Carries small<br />

collection of unique pieces from designers<br />

such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti,<br />

Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and<br />

Brunello Cucinelli.<br />

Caro<br />

Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, D1<br />

Local designs and tailoring of elegant tops<br />

and dresses with a distinctly Eastern influence.<br />

Provides a range of attire for both<br />

the office and a night out. The friendly<br />

staff is eager to help find an outfit for any<br />

occassion.<br />

Chloe<br />

Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

Tel: 6291 3582<br />

Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes<br />

in simple, traditional designs with a<br />

feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans,<br />

satin dresses and a wide array of accessories<br />

are on display.<br />

Contraband<br />

Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Ready-to-wear brand for hip, modern<br />

women. Range includes office wear to<br />

evening wear. The collection is updated<br />

each month with new international trends.<br />

Dieu Thanh<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851<br />

www.dieuthanh.com<br />

Experienced tailor shop also carries its<br />

own line of clothing. Once specialized in<br />

swimwear and cotton clothing but has<br />

expanded to sell business suits, evening<br />

dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.<br />

ER-Couture Boutique<br />

43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www.<br />

er-couture.com<br />

erolskov@er-couture.com<br />

Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering<br />

designer garments. Versatile fashion for<br />

women in European sizes 34-44. Each<br />

style is released in limited quantities and<br />

can be tailored to individual taste.<br />

Esprit<br />

58 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

Outpost for the international brand of<br />

colourful, preppy men’s and women’s<br />

casual wear.<br />

Etam<br />

188 Hai Ba Trung, D1<br />

Famous all over the world for their French<br />

style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-<br />

100 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 101


femme fashion<br />

Falling for Fall<br />

By Adrian Nguyen<br />

Fall is here at last, and it’s<br />

that time of the year to try on<br />

new trends, create some new<br />

looks and reinvent yourself.<br />

The weather might not be<br />

changing much here, but that<br />

shouldn’t stop you from being<br />

fashionable. Here are a few<br />

starter tips for the season.<br />

Camel Classic. Camel is an<br />

important trend this season.<br />

This time around, you can<br />

even go head-to-toe camel:<br />

evening dresses, skirts,<br />

blouses, tailored pants,<br />

shoes, hats—just go for it! It’s<br />

not often that you can rock a<br />

head-to-toe look, so if you’re<br />

into it, now is the time.<br />

Sixties Siren. The mini is so<br />

yesterday; it’s all about longer<br />

hemlines and fuller figures<br />

this fall. The 60s silhouettes<br />

have swung back into modern<br />

times, so get your Mad Men<br />

DVD and start looking for the<br />

same thing Joan is wearing!<br />

Amazing Lace. Lace always<br />

brings out the sexiness in<br />

a woman, and season after<br />

season lace can be found<br />

somewhere in designers’<br />

collections. This fall, mix<br />

sex-appeal with elegance.<br />

Instead of opting for a dress<br />

that screams, “look at my<br />

junk,” go for a subtle lacey<br />

top with a jacket and tailored<br />

pants and red-hot lips. It’ll<br />

work—whatever it is you’re<br />

working for.<br />

Gentlemen’s Club. This look<br />

is all about the juxtaposition of<br />

masculine tailoring with softer,<br />

womanly lines in jackets,<br />

pants and even loafers. To pull<br />

this look off you need to inject<br />

your femininity into the outfit,<br />

for example, by pairing your<br />

tailored pinstriped jacket with<br />

a strapless floral underneath.<br />

Drape It. If you’re into high<br />

fashion then this should be<br />

your way to strut through fall.<br />

Draping is simply making a<br />

multi-layered masterpiece<br />

from a simple piece of fabric.<br />

Opt for hand-made fabrics—<br />

they always have that luxury<br />

feel, and of course, a luxury<br />

price tag, too. But who cares<br />

about money when you want<br />

to project sophistication.<br />

Leopard. What’s fall without<br />

some animal prints? Currently,<br />

leopard is having a major<br />

moment. The classic way to<br />

wear this is to limit yourself<br />

to one print per outfit, but the<br />

modern rendition allows you<br />

to just put everything on and<br />

call it a “style.” I still prefer the<br />

old way; it was so fabulous<br />

when Audrey Hepburn accessorized<br />

her red-hot coat with<br />

that leopard pillbox hat in the<br />

movie Charade in 1963.<br />

That should be enough tips<br />

for you to get started for the<br />

season, so dress up, take<br />

some pictures and send them<br />

to me!<br />

Adrian Nguyen is a designer<br />

and the owner of the<br />

Valenciani brand. Email your<br />

fashion questions to Adrian.<br />

ngn@gmail.com.<br />

shirts, dresses and more. Also available in<br />

Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.<br />

Gaya<br />

1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495<br />

Carries a range of couture and pret-a-porter<br />

garments and silk and organza dresses<br />

in vibrant colours created by Cambodiabased<br />

designer Romyda Keth.<br />

Geisha Boutique<br />

43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 8272<br />

enquiry@geishaclothing.com<br />

Facebook: Geisha Boutique<br />

Australian fashion label offering a contemporary<br />

range of casual and evening<br />

wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees,<br />

singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer<br />

scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin<br />

maxi dresses.<br />

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery<br />

2nd floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, D1<br />

Australian designer Tracey Kociuruba<br />

creates intricately embellished statement<br />

pieces in her Easten-European inspired<br />

shop slash studio.<br />

Kiwi<br />

74/1 Hai Ba Trung<br />

Tel: 3822 1191<br />

Small and intimate shop with a modern<br />

collection of fashion items geared towards<br />

the young and active urban female. The<br />

showroom has a wide collection, from<br />

casual clothing to office wear.<br />

Kookai<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi<br />

French brand stocking classic, feminine,<br />

styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and<br />

classic little black dresses at mid- to highrange<br />

prices are perfect for twenty- and<br />

thirty-something women.<br />

La Senza<br />

47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1<br />

Tel: 3925 1700<br />

65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1<br />

Tel: 3914 4328<br />

www.lasenza.com<br />

Boutique carrying a wide range of bras,<br />

panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge<br />

wear.<br />

Labella<br />

85-87 Pasteur, D1<br />

This three-storey shop will take care of all<br />

your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes,<br />

shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made<br />

and fashionable.<br />

Le Samedi<br />

21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013<br />

Boutique retailing in clothes imported<br />

mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail<br />

dresses to chiffon skirts.<br />

Lulu Lacy<br />

www.lululacy.com<br />

Boutique label featuring retro designs in<br />

high-quality fabrics. Website frequently<br />

refreshed with latest offerings, including<br />

maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts.<br />

Shop online or request a party at your<br />

house.<br />

Mai Lam<br />

132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733<br />

www.mailam.com.vn<br />

Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of<br />

vintage designer clothes and accessories<br />

made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn,<br />

multi-dimensional embroidery, the<br />

re-design of the traditional ao dai and an<br />

army vintage collection.<br />

Mango<br />

96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

A favourite with fashion-conscious<br />

women, this mid-range store stocks<br />

clothes from simple tees and jeans to<br />

evening wear.<br />

Marc Jacobs<br />

Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1<br />

Tel: 6291 3580<br />

This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries<br />

up-market clothes, shoes and accessories<br />

from the internationally recognized<br />

designer brand.<br />

Minh Hanh<br />

24 Dong Khoi, D1 and 114B Nguyen Hue<br />

Tel: 3824 5774<br />

www.mhminhhanh.com<br />

Hand- and machine-embroidered fashion<br />

made from natural fabrics and materials<br />

wed traditional Vietnamese elements with<br />

modern trends. Local celebrities frequent<br />

this shop.<br />

Muse Boutique<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Boutique store carries well-known international<br />

brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock<br />

Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.<br />

Nang Boutique<br />

181 Dong Khoi, Room 209, D1<br />

iheartnang@gmail.com<br />

Houses an assortment of mix-and-match<br />

skirts, floral dresses, chiffon lace-trimmed<br />

gowns and accessories, such as hats,<br />

shoes, bags, scarves and jewellery.<br />

Ngan<br />

23 Ly Tu Trong, D1<br />

The Ngan collection includes high-quality<br />

evening gowns and swimwear made<br />

locally. Also stocks a new line of men’s<br />

casual wear.<br />

Nino Max<br />

189B Hai Ba Trung, D1<br />

A local popular brand of active-casualwear<br />

t-shirts, jeans and khakis. Local pricing.<br />

You can also find their other outlets in<br />

Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.<br />

Peacock<br />

35 Ton That Thiep Tel: 3829 7045<br />

Moulin Rouge-themed boutique housing<br />

an interesting selection of women’s<br />

clothes designed and produced in Vietnam,<br />

including dresses, shirts and t-shirts,<br />

as well as jewellery.<br />

Rana Abodeely<br />

Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District<br />

1, Tel:3825 7307<br />

Luxury resort wear in soft, feminine styles.<br />

Made with 100% Vietnamese silk with<br />

signature glass bead detailing. Comfort,<br />

ease and elegance are the main forms of<br />

the collection.<br />

Shae<br />

101-103 Nguyen Trai, D1<br />

www.shaeny.com<br />

New York brand housing streetwear<br />

such as cardigans, dresses, shorts and<br />

accessories.<br />

Signature Boutique<br />

154 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

Houses some of the world’s most recognized<br />

luxury fashion brands: Roberto<br />

Cavalli, Versace, D&G and Missoni.<br />

Song<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

76D Le Thanh Ton<br />

Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie<br />

Gregori McKenzie, including evening<br />

dress, tops and hats.<br />

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery<br />

43 Ton That Thiep in District 1, 2nd fl.<br />

Tel: 3915 3242<br />

www.traceykociuruba,com<br />

Eastern European-inspired fashion<br />

boutique with eclectic yet elegant designs<br />

with intricate hand-spun details—50s-style<br />

jumpsuits with bustier necklines, silk kaftans<br />

and high-waisted shorts and skirts.<br />

Valenciani<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Tel: 3821 2788<br />

66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688<br />

valenciani.sg@gmail.com<br />

www.valenciani.com<br />

Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk<br />

dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls<br />

and a range of accessories, all designed<br />

in-house.<br />

CHILDREN<br />

Children Planet<br />

90 Vo Thi Sau, D1<br />

Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel,<br />

imported material from Singapore.<br />

Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old<br />

boys and girls.<br />

Dabs Kids Fashion<br />

222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3<br />

A good selection of both casual and<br />

formal clothing for kids aged five to ten.<br />

Party dresses, simple T-shirts, trousers<br />

and more are all good quality and very<br />

reasonably priced. Backpacks and other<br />

accessories are also on sale.<br />

DLS Paris<br />

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1<br />

Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

A superb range of unique and beautiful<br />

clothing for young children (from newborns<br />

to pre-school age) at high to midrange<br />

prices. The quality compensates for<br />

the price. Bedding, baby equipment and<br />

furniture and organic and natural supplies<br />

also kept in stock.<br />

Little Anh – Em<br />

41 Thao Dien, D2<br />

A French brand made in Vietnam offering<br />

a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged<br />

and thoughtfully collated “sets” of<br />

garments for girls and boys from newborn<br />

to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also<br />

available include sleeping bags, bedroom<br />

accessories and bags.<br />

Ninh Khuong<br />

44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456<br />

83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079<br />

220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224<br />

222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3<br />

Tel: 3930 9183<br />

www.ninhkhuong.vn<br />

Well-known hand-embroidered children’s<br />

clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn<br />

to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen<br />

years old (boy). Also stocking home linens.<br />

Prices are reasonable.<br />

Small is Beautiful<br />

227 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Tel: 38 23 87 54<br />

contact@smallisb.com<br />

www.smallisb.com<br />

This newly opened boutique aims to be<br />

the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a<br />

selection of brand name clothing, accessories<br />

and creative toys. Clothing comes<br />

from international designers such as Baby<br />

Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY.<br />

Tuti Bella<br />

Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton,<br />

District 1<br />

75 Mac Thi Buoi, D1<br />

49A Nguyen Trai, D1<br />

Tel: 3993 9088<br />

www.tutibella.net<br />

Self-described as a “chic and trendy<br />

children boutique.” Carries high-end<br />

causal clothes, formal wear, shoes and<br />

accessories for ages 1 to 12 years.<br />

SHOES<br />

Aldo<br />

157 Dong Khoi, D1<br />

Offering a wide selection of affordable<br />

footwear from mid- to high-range prices.<br />

Carries office-appropriate and party-ready<br />

heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories<br />

and bags.<br />

Catwalk<br />

80 Pham Hong Thai<br />

Tel: 3829 6819<br />

www.catwalkshoes.com<br />

Carries a unique range of Spanish shoes<br />

and bags.<br />

Charles & Keith<br />

10 Mac Thi Buoy, 18-20 Nguyen Trai<br />

Tel: 3925 1132<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

www.charleskeith.com<br />

Singapore brand housing youthful and<br />

trendy shoes of a contemporary, high<br />

fashion design.<br />

Converse<br />

186 Hai Ba Trung, D1<br />

148 Nguyen Trai, D1<br />

122 Ba Thang Hai, D10<br />

Tel: 3827 5584<br />

www.converse.com.vn<br />

Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and<br />

All-Star sneakers and Converse brand<br />

clothing and accessories. Also at department<br />

stores around HCMC.<br />

Dr. Marten’s<br />

173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710<br />

Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature<br />

the classic yellow stitching and chunky<br />

rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes<br />

and accessories by Replay and Kappa<br />

tracksuit tops.<br />

Nine West<br />

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1<br />

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

Stocks an extensive range of designer<br />

footwear for women. Handpicked by a<br />

global community of independent trendsetters<br />

and stylists.<br />

Sergio Rossi<br />

146AB Pasteur, D1<br />

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1<br />

World-renowned Italian brand stocks a<br />

diverse European-style collection of upmarket<br />

shoes and bags made of quality<br />

materials, from crocodile and python<br />

skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski<br />

crystals and colourful beads.<br />

Star Polo<br />

97B Nguyen Trai, D1<br />

Mix of imported shoes and locally made<br />

footwear crafted from Australian leather<br />

for men and women as well as imported<br />

ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and<br />

from 34 to 40 for women.<br />

TAILORS<br />

Dieu Thanh<br />

140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851<br />

www.dieuthanh.com<br />

Experienced tailor shop specializes in<br />

swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as<br />

business suits, evening dresses, luxury<br />

fabrics and accessories.<br />

Dzung<br />

221 Le Thanh Ton, D1<br />

One of the most reliable and respected<br />

men’s tailors in town with prices and production<br />

time to reflect the quality of the<br />

workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.<br />

Fabric Street<br />

Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from<br />

Tan Dinh Market.<br />

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured<br />

locally and abroad, with more than<br />

ample variety of textures, colours and<br />

materials to choose from.<br />

Massimo Ferrari<br />

42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3<br />

Tel: 3930 6212<br />

Traditional Italian sartorial techniques<br />

are employed to offer a full wardrobing<br />

service and custom tailoring for men.<br />

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily<br />

from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings<br />

available.<br />

Thuy Nga Design<br />

7 Lam Son Square, D1<br />

Conveniently located at the Opera<br />

House, this local boutique is a one-stop<br />

shop for both men and women. The<br />

range includes clothes, men’s and<br />

women’s accessories and costume<br />

jewellery.<br />

LINH‘S WHITE<br />

PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM<br />

37 THAO DIEN<br />

(OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET)<br />

67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2<br />

PHONE: (84) - 62819863<br />

- 62818488<br />

E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn - www.linhfurniture.com<br />

102 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 103


Amber Room<br />

Everyone is a DJ at Factory<br />

Ladies Night at Lush<br />

Mexico Lindo<br />

The Housekeeper at Alibi<br />

Vasco, By Invitation Only<br />

Photos by Fred Wissink &<br />

Jordan Howard<br />

104 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 105


Street Guide<br />

3 Thang 2 D1<br />

Alexandre de Rhodes<br />

C4<br />

Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3<br />

Ban Co<br />

D1<br />

Ben Chuong Duong<br />

E4<br />

Ben Van Don<br />

E4, E5<br />

Bui Thi Xuan<br />

D3<br />

Bui Vien<br />

E3<br />

Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3<br />

Calmette<br />

E4<br />

Cao Ba Nha<br />

E3<br />

Cao Thang<br />

D1, D2, E2<br />

Chu Manh Trinh<br />

C4, C5<br />

Co Bac<br />

E3<br />

Co Giang<br />

E3<br />

De Tham<br />

E3<br />

Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2<br />

Dinh Cong Trang<br />

B3<br />

Dinh Tien Hoang<br />

B3, B4, C4<br />

Do Quang Dau<br />

E3<br />

Do Thanh<br />

D1<br />

Doan Nhu Hai<br />

E5<br />

Doan Van Bo<br />

E4, E5<br />

Dong Du<br />

D5<br />

Dong Khoi<br />

C4, D4, D5<br />

Hai Cua<br />

B5<br />

Huynh Tinh Cua<br />

B2<br />

Huynh Van Banh<br />

B1<br />

Khanh Hoi<br />

E4<br />

Ky Con<br />

B3, C3, C4, D5<br />

Hai Trieu<br />

C5<br />

Ham Nghi<br />

D4, C5<br />

Han Thuyen<br />

C4<br />

Ho Hao Hon<br />

E3<br />

Ho Huan Nghiep<br />

D5<br />

Ho Tung Mau<br />

D4, D5<br />

Ho Xuan Huong<br />

C3, D2<br />

Hoa Hung<br />

B1<br />

Hoang Dieu<br />

E4, E5<br />

Hung Vuong<br />

E1<br />

Huyen Tran Cong Chua<br />

D3<br />

Huynh Man Dat<br />

B5<br />

Huynh Thuc Khang<br />

D4<br />

Ky Dong<br />

C1, C2<br />

Le Cong Kieu<br />

D4<br />

Le Duan<br />

C4, C5<br />

Le Hong Phong<br />

D1<br />

Le Lai<br />

C3, C4, D3<br />

Le Loi<br />

D4<br />

Le Quoc Hung<br />

E4, E5<br />

Le Quy Don<br />

C3<br />

Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4<br />

Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4<br />

Le Thi Rieng<br />

D3<br />

Le Van Phuc<br />

B3<br />

Le Van Sy<br />

C1, C2<br />

Luong Huu Khanh<br />

D2, E2<br />

Luu Van Lang<br />

D4<br />

Ly Chinh Thang<br />

B2, C2<br />

Ly Thai To<br />

E1<br />

Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5<br />

Mac Dinh Chi<br />

B3, C4<br />

Mac Thi Buoi<br />

D5<br />

Mai Thi Luu<br />

B4<br />

Mai Van Ngoc<br />

B1<br />

Me Linh<br />

B5<br />

Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4<br />

Ngo Duc Ke<br />

D5<br />

Ngo Thoi Nhiem<br />

C2, D2<br />

Ngo Van Nam<br />

C5<br />

Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5<br />

Nguyen Cong Tru<br />

E4<br />

Nguyen Cu Trinh<br />

E2, E3<br />

Nguyen Dinh Chieu B4, C3, C4, D1, D2, D3<br />

Nguyen Dinh Chinh<br />

B1<br />

Nguyen Du<br />

Nguyen Hai Tu<br />

Nguyen Hue<br />

Nguyen Huu Canh<br />

Nguyen Huu Canh<br />

Nguyen Huu Cau<br />

Nguyen Khac Nhu<br />

Nguyen Khoai<br />

Nguyen Ngoc Phuong<br />

Nguyen Phi Khanh<br />

Nguyen Sieu<br />

Nguyen Son Ha<br />

Nguyen Tat Thanh<br />

Nguyen Thai Binh<br />

Nguyen Thai Hoc<br />

Nguyen Thi Dieu<br />

Nguyen Thien Thuat<br />

Nguyen Thong<br />

Nguyen Thuong Hien<br />

Nguyen Trai<br />

Nguyen Trung Ngan<br />

Nguyen Trung Truc<br />

Nguyen Truong To<br />

Nguyen Van Cu<br />

Nguyen Van Hai<br />

Nguyen Van Lac<br />

Nguyen Van Thu<br />

Nguyen Van Troi<br />

Pasteur<br />

Pham Hong Thai<br />

Pham Ngoc Thach<br />

Pham Ngu Lao<br />

Pham Viet Chanh<br />

Pham Viet Chanh<br />

Phan Dinh Phung<br />

Phan Ke Binh<br />

Phan Van Han<br />

Pho Duc Chinh<br />

Phung Khac Khoan<br />

Suong Nguyet Anh<br />

Tan Vinh<br />

Thach Thi Thanh<br />

Thai Van Lung<br />

Thi Sach<br />

Thu Khoa Huan<br />

Ton Duc Thang<br />

Ton That Dam<br />

Ton That Thiep<br />

Ton That Tung<br />

Tran Binh Trong<br />

Tran Canh Chan<br />

Tran Cao Van<br />

Tran Dinh Xu<br />

Tran Hung Dao<br />

Tran Khac Chan<br />

Tran Khanh Du<br />

Tran Minh Quyen<br />

Tran Minh Quyen<br />

Tran Nhan Ton<br />

Tran Nhat Duat<br />

Tran Phu<br />

Tran Quang Dieu<br />

Tran Quang Khai<br />

Tran Quoc Thao<br />

Tran Quoc Toan<br />

Tran Van Dang<br />

Truong Chinh<br />

Truong Dinh<br />

Tu Xuong<br />

Vinh Khanh<br />

Vo Thi Sau<br />

Vo Van Tan<br />

Vuon Chuoi<br />

Xo Viet Nghe Tinh<br />

Yersin<br />

C4, D3, D4<br />

B4<br />

D4, D5<br />

B2<br />

C5<br />

B3<br />

E3<br />

F3<br />

B5<br />

B3<br />

C5, D5<br />

D2<br />

E5<br />

D4, E4<br />

D3, E3, E4<br />

D2, D3<br />

D1, E1, E2<br />

C1, C2, D2<br />

D2<br />

D3, E2<br />

C5<br />

D4<br />

E4, E5<br />

E2<br />

B3<br />

B5<br />

B4, C3, C4<br />

B1<br />

C2, C3, C4, D4<br />

D2, D3<br />

C3<br />

D3, D4, E3<br />

B5<br />

E2<br />

B2<br />

B4<br />

B4, B5<br />

D4, E4<br />

C3, C4<br />

D2, D3<br />

E4<br />

B3<br />

C5<br />

C5<br />

D4<br />

C5, D4, D5, E4<br />

D4<br />

D4<br />

D2, D3<br />

E1<br />

E2<br />

C4<br />

E2, E3<br />

D4, E2, E3<br />

B3<br />

B2, B3<br />

D1<br />

C1<br />

E1<br />

B3<br />

E1<br />

B1, B2<br />

B3, B2<br />

C2, C3<br />

B2, B3, B2<br />

C1, C2<br />

C3<br />

C2, D3<br />

C2, C3, D2<br />

E4, E5<br />

B3, C2, C3<br />

C3, D2, D3<br />

D2<br />

B4, B5<br />

E4<br />

AA<br />

Airport Airport<br />

3km 3km<br />

BB<br />

Tran<br />

Tran<br />

Van Dang<br />

Van Dang<br />

CC<br />

Tan Binh Tan Binh<br />

0.5km 0.5km<br />

Huynh Huynh Van Banh<br />

Van Banh<br />

District District 11 11<br />

2km 2km<br />

Tran Minh Quyen<br />

Tran Minh Quyen<br />

Tran Nhan Ton<br />

Le Hong Phong<br />

Saigon<br />

Saigon Train Station<br />

Train Station<br />

Tran Minh Quyen<br />

Tran Minh Quyen<br />

Hoa Hung<br />

Hoa Hung<br />

Lan Anh<br />

Lan Anh Sports &<br />

Sports Leisure & Club<br />

Leisure Club<br />

Dien Bien Phu<br />

Dien Bien Phu<br />

11<br />

Tran Quang Dieu<br />

Tran Quang Dieu<br />

Ly Thai<br />

Ly<br />

To<br />

Thai To<br />

Hung Vuong<br />

Hung Vuong<br />

Nguyen Van Troi<br />

Nguyen Van Troi<br />

Th Nguyen<br />

Th Nguyen<br />

ong<br />

ong<br />

Cach Mang Thang Tam<br />

Cach Mang Thang Tam<br />

3 Thang 2<br />

3 Thang 2<br />

Ban Co<br />

Ban Co<br />

Nguyen Thien Thuat<br />

Nguyen Thien Thuat<br />

Tran Binh Trong<br />

Ng Dinh Chinh<br />

Ng Dinh Chinh<br />

PHU NHUAN<br />

Le Van Sy<br />

Le Van Sy<br />

Quyen<br />

Quyen<br />

Tran<br />

Tran<br />

Minh<br />

Minh<br />

DISTRICT 10 10<br />

DD<br />

EE<br />

Tran Nhan Ton<br />

Le Hong Phong<br />

Tran Quang Dieu<br />

Tran Binh Trong<br />

Tran Phu<br />

Tran Phu<br />

Dang<br />

Dang<br />

Van Van<br />

Tran<br />

Tran<br />

Do Thanh<br />

Cao Thang<br />

Cao Thang<br />

Huyn h Van Banh<br />

Nguyen Van Cu<br />

University<br />

of Natural<br />

University<br />

Sciences<br />

of Natural<br />

Sciences<br />

Vuon<br />

Chuoi<br />

Vuon Market<br />

Chuoi<br />

Market<br />

Teacher<br />

Training Teacher<br />

University Training<br />

University<br />

Re-unification<br />

Palace Palace<br />

106 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 107<br />

An Duong Vuong<br />

An Duong Vuong<br />

Ky Dong<br />

DISTRICT 5 5<br />

Tran Quang Dieu<br />

Do Thanh<br />

Huyn h Van Banh<br />

Ky Dong<br />

V<br />

Ng. Thuong<br />

. Chuoi<br />

Ly Chinh T hang<br />

Hien<br />

Nguyen Trai<br />

Nguyen Trai<br />

22<br />

Phan Dinh Phung<br />

Phan Dinh Phung<br />

V<br />

Truong Dinh<br />

Truong Dinh<br />

Ng. Thuong<br />

. Chuoi<br />

Nguyen Van Cu<br />

Ly Chinh T hang<br />

Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Nam Ky Khoi Nghia<br />

Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Nam Ky Khoi Nghia<br />

Thai Binh<br />

Market<br />

Thai Binh<br />

Market<br />

War War<br />

Remnants Remnants<br />

Museum Museum<br />

Cultural Cultural Park Park<br />

Cach Mang Thang Tam<br />

Cach Mang Thang Tam<br />

Le Van Tam<br />

Le Park Van Tam<br />

Park<br />

Vo Thi Sau Vo Thi Sau<br />

Vo Thi Sau Vo Thi Sau<br />

Tu Xuong<br />

Tu Xuong<br />

Hien<br />

Dien Bien Phu<br />

Dien Bien Phu<br />

Nguyen Thong<br />

Nguyen Thong<br />

Nguyen Son Ha<br />

Nguyen Son Ha<br />

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai<br />

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai<br />

Pham Viet Chanh<br />

Pham Viet Chanh<br />

Tran<br />

Tran Khanh Tran Khanh Du Du<br />

Huynh Tinh Cua<br />

Huynh Tinh Cua<br />

Ba Huyen Thanh Quan<br />

Ba Huyen Thanh Quan<br />

Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

Ngo Thoi Nhiem<br />

Ngo Thoi Nhiem<br />

Luong Huu Khanh<br />

Luong Huu Khanh<br />

Nguyen Trai<br />

N. V. Hai<br />

N. V. Hai<br />

Quoc ToanTran Quoc Toan<br />

Tran<br />

Tran Quoc Thao<br />

Tran Quoc Thao<br />

Nguyen Thi Dieu<br />

Nguyen Thi Dieu<br />

Suong Nguyet Anh<br />

Suong Nguyet Anh<br />

Ton That Tung<br />

Ton That Tung<br />

Cong Quynh<br />

Cong Quynh<br />

Tran Dinh Xu<br />

Tran Dinh Xu<br />

Rieng Rieng<br />

Le Thi<br />

Le Thi<br />

Cao Ba Nha<br />

Ng. Huu Cau<br />

Nguyen Trai<br />

Nguyen Trai<br />

Do Q. Dau<br />

Thach Thi Thanh<br />

Thach Thi Thanh<br />

D. C. Trang<br />

D. C. Trang<br />

Truong Chinh<br />

Truong Chinh<br />

Le Lai<br />

Le Lai<br />

Bui Vien<br />

Bui Vien<br />

Nguyen Thai Hoc<br />

Nguyen Thai Hoc<br />

De Tham<br />

Pham Ngu Lao<br />

Pham Ngu Lao<br />

Tran Quang Tran Quang Khai Khai<br />

Pham Ngoc Thach<br />

Pham Ngoc Thach<br />

Ng Kh Nhu<br />

Ng Kh Nhu<br />

Co Bac<br />

Co Bac<br />

L. V. Phuc<br />

L. V. Phuc<br />

Vo Van Tan Vo Van Tan<br />

Vo Van Tan Vo Van Tan<br />

Cao Thang<br />

Cao Thang<br />

Cu Lao<br />

Cu Lao<br />

Tran Nhat Duat<br />

Ho Xuan Huong<br />

Ho Xuan Huong<br />

DISTRICT 1 1<br />

Ngu yen Huu Canh<br />

140 Hoa 140 Lan Hoa Lan<br />

District District Phu Nhuan Phu Nhuan<br />

33<br />

Hoa Lan<br />

Hoa Lan<br />

Nguyen Gia Thieu<br />

Nguyen Gia Thieu<br />

Bui Thi Xuan<br />

Bui Thi Xuan<br />

Nguyen Cu Trinh<br />

Nguyen Cu Trinh<br />

Phan Xich Phan Long Xich Long<br />

Tran Khac Chan<br />

Hai Ba Trung<br />

Hai Ba Trung<br />

DISTRICT 3 3<br />

Nguyen Trai<br />

Ngu yen Huu Canh<br />

Quoc ToanTran Quoc Toan<br />

Tran Nhat Duat<br />

Le Quy Don<br />

Le Quy Don<br />

Cao Ba Nha<br />

Tran Khac Chan<br />

Ng. Huu Cau<br />

Do Q. Dau<br />

Ho H. Hon<br />

Ho H. Hon<br />

Truong Dinh<br />

Truong Dinh<br />

Ng. Phi Ng. Khanh Phi Khanh<br />

Huyen Tran Cong Chua<br />

Huyen Tran Cong Chua<br />

Co Giang<br />

Co Giang<br />

Nguyen Van Thu<br />

Nguyen Van Thu<br />

Huan<br />

Huan<br />

Thu Kh<br />

Thu Kh<br />

Pham Pham Hong Hong Thai Thai<br />

De Tham<br />

Ly Tu Trong<br />

Ly Tu Trong<br />

Tran Hung Dao Tran Hung Dao<br />

Tran Hung Dao Tran Hung Dao<br />

Vo Huy Vo Tan Huy Tan<br />

Pasteur<br />

Pasteur<br />

De Tham<br />

Dinh Tien Hoang<br />

De Tham<br />

Gia Dinh Gia Dinh<br />

Hospital Hospital<br />

Dinh Tien Hoang<br />

Tu<br />

Tu<br />

Ng Hai Ng Hai<br />

Mac Dinh Chi<br />

Mac Dinh Chi<br />

Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />

Alexandre De Rhodes<br />

Alexandre De Rhodes<br />

Ben<br />

Thanh<br />

Ben<br />

Market<br />

Thanh<br />

Market<br />

Central<br />

Central Post Office<br />

Post Office<br />

Bus<br />

Station Bus<br />

Station<br />

Nguyen Binh Khiem<br />

Nguyen Binh Khiem<br />

Le Loi<br />

Le Loi<br />

Hoa Lu<br />

Hoa Stadium Lu<br />

Stadium<br />

Dinh Tien Hoang<br />

Dinh Tien Hoang<br />

Hai Ba Trung<br />

Hai Ba Trung<br />

Town Hall<br />

HTV<br />

HTV television<br />

television<br />

Le Duan Le Duan<br />

Le Duan Le Duan<br />

Pasteur<br />

Pasteur<br />

Nguyen Trung Truc<br />

Nguyen Trung Truc<br />

Nguyen Du<br />

Nguyen Du<br />

Nguyen An Ninh<br />

Nguyen An Ninh<br />

Ky Con<br />

Ky Con<br />

Le Thi Hong Gam<br />

Le Thi Hong Gam<br />

Yersin<br />

Mai Thi Luu<br />

Mai Thi Luu<br />

Phan Ke Binh<br />

Phan Ke Binh<br />

Tran Cao Van<br />

Tran Cao Van<br />

Han Thuyen<br />

Han Thuyen<br />

L. V. Lang<br />

L. V. Lang<br />

Nguyen Thai Binh<br />

Nguyen Thai Binh<br />

44<br />

Dong Khoi<br />

Dong Khoi<br />

Pho Duc Chinh<br />

Calmette<br />

Ng. Cong Tru<br />

Ng. Cong Tru<br />

BINH THANH<br />

Nguyen Du<br />

Hoang<br />

Hoang<br />

Sa<br />

Sa<br />

Ham Ham Nghi Nghi<br />

Xo Viet Nghe Tinh<br />

Xo Viet Nghe Tinh<br />

Le Loi<br />

Le Loi<br />

Ton Duc Thang<br />

Ton Duc Thang<br />

Chu Manh Trinh<br />

Chu Manh Trinh<br />

Nguyen Hue<br />

Nguyen Hue<br />

Ton ThTon Th<br />

at Thiep<br />

at Thiep<br />

T. T. Dam<br />

Ly Tu Trong<br />

Ly Tu Trong<br />

Thi Sach<br />

Thi Sach<br />

Le Quoc Hung<br />

Le Quoc Hung<br />

Pham Van Pham Han Van Han<br />

Mac<br />

Mac<br />

Ngo<br />

Ngo<br />

Zoo & Botanical<br />

Zoo & Botanical Gardens<br />

Gardens<br />

Nguyen Binh Khiem<br />

Nguyen Binh Khiem<br />

Thai Van Lung<br />

Thai Van Lung<br />

Ng Sieu<br />

Ng Sieu<br />

Cao Ba Quat<br />

Cao Ba Quat<br />

Le Thanh Ton Le Thanh Ton<br />

Pasteur<br />

Le Cong Le Kieu Cong Kieu<br />

Don<br />

Don<br />

Ben Van<br />

Ben Van<br />

Sa<br />

Sa<br />

Truong Truong<br />

DISTRICT 1 1<br />

Yersin<br />

Pho Duc Chinh<br />

Calmette<br />

Nguyen Du<br />

Town Hall<br />

Ho Tung Mau<br />

Huynh Thuc<br />

Huynh Thuc<br />

Khang<br />

Khang<br />

Vinh Khanh<br />

Hoang Dieu<br />

Hoang Dieu<br />

T. T. Dam<br />

Ng. Cong Tru<br />

Ng. Cong Tru<br />

Ng Truong To<br />

Nguyen<br />

Trung Ngan<br />

Nguyen<br />

Trung Ngan<br />

Le Thanh Ton Le Thanh Ton<br />

Pasteur<br />

Vinh Khanh<br />

Ho Tung Mau<br />

Dong Du<br />

Dong Du<br />

Phan Van Dat<br />

Thi Buoi<br />

Thi Buoi<br />

H.H.Nghiep<br />

H.H.Nghiep<br />

Duc Ke<br />

Duc Ke<br />

Hai Trieu<br />

Hai Trieu<br />

Ng Truong To<br />

Ngo V<br />

Ngo V<br />

an<br />

an<br />

Nam<br />

Nam<br />

Ton Duc<br />

Thang Museum<br />

Ton Duc<br />

Thang Museum<br />

Nguyen Tat Thanh<br />

Doan Nhu Hai<br />

Doan Nhu Hai<br />

Doan Van Bo<br />

Doan Van Bo<br />

DISTRICT 4 4<br />

55<br />

Nguyen Cuu Van<br />

Nguyen Cuu Van<br />

Phan Van Dat<br />

Nguyen Ngoc Phuong<br />

Nguyen Ngoc Phuong<br />

Huynh Man Dat<br />

Thu Thiem Thu Thiem<br />

Ferry Ferry Port Port<br />

(for District (for District 2) 2)<br />

Huynh Tinh Cua<br />

Huynh Tinh Cua<br />

Saigon Saigon Bridge Bridge<br />

& Highway & Highway 1 1<br />

3km 3km<br />

Nguyen Huu Canh<br />

Nguyen Huu Canh<br />

HCM HCM City City<br />

Boat Quay Boat Quay<br />

(for Vung (for Vung Tau) Tau)<br />

Nguyen Tat Thanh<br />

Nguyen Van Lac<br />

Huynh Man Dat<br />

Me Linh<br />

Cat Lai Cat Ferry Lai Ferry<br />

9km 9km<br />

Vung Vung Tau Tau<br />

District District 7 7<br />

& Nha & Be Nha Be<br />

Nguyen Van Lac<br />

Me Linh


oxoffice<br />

bookshelf<br />

Being Wrong:<br />

Adventures in the<br />

Margin of Error<br />

Fat Vampire: A Never<br />

Coming of Age Story<br />

Kathryn Schultz<br />

Ecco/Harper Collins<br />

Alex Rex<br />

Balzer + Bray<br />

Miley Cyrus stars in the comingof-age<br />

story The Last Song, a<br />

film adapted from the novel by<br />

Nicolas Sparks (The Notebook).<br />

Following her parents’ divorce,<br />

17-year-old New Yorker Ronnie<br />

Miller (Cyrus) becomes<br />

estranged from her father (Greg<br />

Kinnear), who has relocated to<br />

the quiet Southern beach town<br />

of Tybee Island. Hoping to help<br />

her overcome her anger, Ronnie’s<br />

mother sends Ronnie and<br />

her brother to Tybee, where she<br />

learns lessons about life and love<br />

on the brink of adulthood.<br />

Art imitates life in Grown Ups,<br />

as former 90s Saturday Night<br />

Live Cast members Adam Sandler,<br />

Chris Rock, David Spade<br />

and Rob Schneider reunite to<br />

play a group of old friends who<br />

get back in touch 30 years after<br />

winning a junior high basketball<br />

championship. Reflecting on<br />

their deceased coach’s advice<br />

to live their lives like they played<br />

the game, they are forced to<br />

confront their failures and move<br />

opening dates<br />

CINEMAS<br />

C: Cinebox<br />

www.cinebox212.com.vn<br />

G: Galaxy<br />

www.galaxycine.vn<br />

L: Lottecinema<br />

www.lottecinemavn.com<br />

M: Megastar<br />

www.megastarmedia.net<br />

T: Thang Long<br />

www.giaitrithanglong.com/<br />

cinema<br />

forward by re-learning the lessons<br />

of their past.<br />

In Charlie St. Cloud, Zac<br />

Efron plays a young man caught<br />

between a new love and an old<br />

promise. After his younger brother<br />

Sam dies in a car accident,<br />

Charlie becomes reclusive and<br />

gains a reputation among his<br />

small port town as an eccentric.<br />

What his neighbours don’t know<br />

is that Sam visits him to hold him<br />

to a promise: that Charlie would<br />

play catch with him every day<br />

until he left for school. When he<br />

begins to fall for Tess, the new<br />

girl in town, Charlie must decide<br />

whether to let the past go and<br />

sail away with Tess or give up<br />

his future to honour his promise<br />

to Sam.<br />

Following up on his success<br />

with Passport to Love, Vietnamese-American<br />

director Victor Vu<br />

brings suspense to Vietnamese<br />

theatres with the Hitchcockian<br />

thriller Giao Lo Dinh Menh<br />

(Inferno). When Manh (Tran Bao<br />

Son) awakes from a surgery to<br />

September 2<br />

The Last Song<br />

September 3<br />

Grown Ups<br />

September 10<br />

The Runaways<br />

Charlie St. Cloud<br />

September 17<br />

Inferno<br />

Resident Evil: Afterlife<br />

3D<br />

September 24<br />

Devil<br />

treat injuries sustained in a car<br />

accident, he cannot remember<br />

who he is. Taken in by his wife,<br />

mother, best friend and underworld<br />

co-workers, Manh soon<br />

begins to suspect that his reality<br />

is anything but. With a mysterious<br />

stalker on his trail, Manh<br />

must uncover the secret behind<br />

his accident and his reconstructed<br />

appearance.<br />

Based on a story by M. Night<br />

Shyamalan, Devil puts new<br />

fear into a common phobia.<br />

Five individuals find themselves<br />

trapped in an office elevator, but<br />

one of them is not who they say<br />

they are. As a terrifying series of<br />

events unravels in the enclosed<br />

space, it becomes clear that<br />

one of them is the devil himself.<br />

With nowhere to run, the elevator<br />

car is soon consumed with<br />

paranoia.<br />

Based on the memoir by<br />

Cherie Currie and executive produced<br />

by Joan Jett, The Runaways<br />

tells the true story of the<br />

two rock icons and their bandmates,<br />

whose brief career from<br />

1975 to 1977 was as groundbreaking<br />

as it was tumultuous.<br />

Though marketed as underage<br />

sex objects, The Runaways<br />

gain a following on the merit of<br />

their music and become the first<br />

all-girl act to break into the world<br />

of hard rock. The biopic traces<br />

their rise from the suburbs of<br />

California to the arenas of Japan,<br />

serving as historical document<br />

and cautionary tale.<br />

In the fourth film in the series<br />

and the first shot in 3D, Milla<br />

Jovovich reprises her role as<br />

the superhuman zombie-fighter<br />

Alice in Resident Evil: Afterlife.<br />

On a mission to Los Angeles to<br />

find signs of human settlement,<br />

Alice reunites with an amnesiac<br />

Claire Redfield (Ali Larter), who<br />

last appeared in Resident Evil:<br />

Extinction. Together with a band<br />

of survivors, they take the fight<br />

to those responsible for the<br />

zombie outbreak, the Umbrella<br />

Corporation and its mastermind,<br />

Albert Wesker.<br />

The information on this page was<br />

correct at the time of printing. Check<br />

cinema websites for screenings.<br />

Being Wrong, penned by journalist Kathryn Schultz, takes a stab<br />

at unveiling why mankind insists on being right, can’t cope when<br />

proven wrong and feels the urge to say, “I told you so.” According<br />

to Schultz, “We can’t enjoy kissing just anyone, but we can relish<br />

being right about almost anything.” In the first section of the book<br />

Schultz conducts a scientific tour of everyday wrongs, touching on<br />

optical illusions, memory failures, neurological deficits and irrational<br />

beliefs. She then explains how they arise, get perpetuated and<br />

most importantly, why it is so difficult to see them for what they<br />

really are. The second half serves up personal stories as evidence,<br />

including a case study that documents a sexual assault victim<br />

whose mistaken testimony sent an innocent man to prison—an<br />

example of just how serious being wrong can be.<br />

Super Sad True<br />

Love Story<br />

Gary Shteyngart<br />

Random House<br />

Lenny Abranov, a 39-year-old of Russian heritage who has a bald<br />

spot shaped like Ohio, lives in author Gary Shteyngart’s futuristic<br />

America, an image-focused nation crumbling in debt and reliant<br />

on China’s financial assistance. Abranov is what’s known as an<br />

“ancient dork.” He likes books of the non-digital variety, referred to<br />

by his contemporaries as “printed, bound media artefacts.” In contrast<br />

to his health-conscious peers who are in constant search of<br />

immortality, his cholesterol levels promise an early end. Regardless<br />

of his downfalls, Abranov meets and falls in love with Eunice Park,<br />

a 24-year-old Korean American, who’s just graduated from college<br />

with a major in images and a minor in assertiveness. Park does<br />

her best to mould Abranov into a prime specimen worthy of her<br />

attention. However, the pair soon discover that despite the world’s<br />

infatuation with beauty and longevity, there’s still some value in being<br />

a real human being, flaws and all.<br />

Illustrator turned author Alex Ray’s take on the current vampire<br />

craze is a unique one. Rather than a dashing and handsome<br />

Twilight-esque figure, the protagonist of Fat Vampire is a 15-yearold<br />

nerd named Doug, who is turned into a bloodsucker before he<br />

has a chance to lose some extra pounds. As a result, he is forced<br />

to walk the earth for all eternity as an overweight and unattractive<br />

loser. Working with what he’s got, he sets out in search of a gothic<br />

chick keen on the undead, but on his quest falls in love with Sejal,<br />

an Indian exchange student. To make matters even more complicated,<br />

the star of Vampire Hunters—a TV show that finds and kills<br />

vamps—is in hot pursuit of Doug, determined to stake him on air<br />

to boost ratings. Throughout, Doug tries to adapt to vampire life,<br />

with only a copy of Dracula as his guide.<br />

The Fever: How<br />

Malaria has Ruled<br />

Mankind for<br />

500,000 Years<br />

Sonia Shah<br />

Farra, Shah & Giroux<br />

The title of Boston-based investigative journalist Sonia Shah’s<br />

malaria exposé reads like a horror story and it’s not far off. The<br />

Fever chronicles the infectious disease across the ages. It’s a<br />

bug that has killed more people than any other natural force,<br />

and has mutated to the point that it’s become resistant to many<br />

modern medicines. Throughout, Shah details malaria’s many<br />

casualties and, curiously, some of its advantages. While the<br />

mosquito-borne virus claims an estimated one million lives per<br />

year, in Julius Caesar’s time an outbreak on the outskirts of his<br />

empire helped to protect it from intruders. Shah also explores<br />

the disjuncture between the West’s effort to eradicate malaria<br />

and the developing world’s reluctance to consider it as anything<br />

more than a common cold. She goes further, explaining how<br />

insecticide-doused mosquito nets donated from the West are<br />

often used to catch fish. Shah touches on this and much more in<br />

a fact-based journey that is neither dry nor too scientific.<br />

108 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 109


soundfix<br />

album review<br />

ARCADE FIRE<br />

THE SUBURBS<br />

Win Butler and his enigmatic<br />

troop have delivered what could<br />

well be the album of the year.<br />

Nine months into 2010 and<br />

The Suburbs stands head and<br />

shoulders above any other major<br />

release so far. Why? Simple. The<br />

chemistry of the album is right.<br />

The number of songs and overall<br />

duration (16 tracks, 60 minutes,)<br />

bestows the record with an epic<br />

grandeur, while the sequencing<br />

of the songs (you will not<br />

hear a stronger opening trio to<br />

an album than “The Suburbs,”<br />

“Ready To Start” and “Modern<br />

Man”) is precisely mapped and<br />

perfectly paced. It rises when it<br />

needs to rise and falls when it<br />

needs to fall. However, it’s the<br />

concept that seals the deal.<br />

The best albums are the ones<br />

that manage to speak to you on<br />

a personal level while remaining<br />

universally relevant. Hence,<br />

Arcade Fire’s ode to bittersweet,<br />

suburban childhood memories,<br />

modern anxieties and middleclass<br />

dreams both realized and<br />

unfulfilled, penetrates the soul<br />

with an undeniable truism.<br />

KLAXONS<br />

SURFING THE<br />

VOID<br />

For all intents and purposes,<br />

Surfing The Void isn’t exactly<br />

the album Klaxons wanted to<br />

make. The three-year gestation<br />

period of the follow-up to the<br />

2007 Mercury Prize-winning<br />

Myths of the Near Future has<br />

been frustrating for the (now)<br />

quartet. Early efforts with Tony<br />

Visconti and Simian Mobile<br />

Disco’s James Ford were<br />

rejected by the band’s label<br />

for being “too experimental.”<br />

Bizarrely, Nu-Metal production<br />

guru Ross Robinson (Limp Bizkit,<br />

Korn, Slipknot) was drafted<br />

to oversee Klaxon’s transition<br />

from uncontrollable prog-rock<br />

experimentalists to space-pop<br />

titans in a similar mould to Muse.<br />

The result is a compromise as<br />

intriguing and hypocritical as the<br />

Tories and Lib Dems sharing the<br />

reigns of power in the British<br />

Government. Sometimes it actually<br />

works (“Echoes,” “Surfing<br />

The Void,” “Venusia”), other<br />

times it doesn’t (“Cypherspeed,”<br />

“Extra Astranomical”) and never<br />

could. Overall, Surfing The Void<br />

suffers from an identity crisis<br />

that has Klaxons confusing their<br />

strengths and weaknesses. As<br />

they say, you can’t please everybody<br />

all of the time.<br />

INTERPOL<br />

INTERPOL<br />

The fourth album by the New<br />

York-based post-punkers is<br />

largely a massive disappointment.<br />

Considering this is the<br />

last Interpol record to feature<br />

bassist and creative lynchpin<br />

Carlos Dengler, a final and<br />

grand gesture was expected.<br />

Indeed, a return to the stylistics<br />

of their benchmark debut was<br />

even claimed by Paul Banks<br />

in interviews anticipating the<br />

release of this record. Apart from<br />

Daniel Kessler’s reverb-drenched<br />

guitar tone and Dengler’s throbbing<br />

bass, there aren’t many<br />

similarities to be found with the<br />

spellbinding brilliance of Turn On<br />

The Bright Lights. Much of Interpol<br />

feels weighed down by a<br />

sense of lethargy. Gone are the<br />

moments of stark beauty and<br />

frenetic blasts of rhythmic dynamism.<br />

Too many tracks, such<br />

as “Memory Serves” and “Safe<br />

Without” plod along aimlessly.<br />

There’s a lot of scene setting but<br />

little in the way of pay off. Even<br />

standout tracks, “Lights” and<br />

“Barricade,” sound average in<br />

comparison with former glories<br />

like “NYC,” “Evil” and “The Heinrich<br />

Maneuver.”<br />

by John Thornton<br />

DJ SHADOW<br />

THE DJ SHADOW<br />

REMIX PROJECT<br />

The remix album, aka the last<br />

chance saloon for once great<br />

artists now bereft of inspiration<br />

and looking to others to reignite<br />

that old creative spark that<br />

once burned so brightly. Funny<br />

then that DJ Shadow should<br />

release an album consisting<br />

solely of fan-made remixes. On<br />

the whole, most of the remixes<br />

are pretty good, particularly<br />

FUSO’s stuttering glitch-dub<br />

take on “Midnight In A Perfect<br />

World,” Economic’s smoked-out<br />

version of “What Does Your Soul<br />

Look Like? Part 2” and Tiger<br />

Mendoza’s “Missing On The<br />

Motorway,” which successfully<br />

blends Shadow’s “Blood On The<br />

Motorway” with “Missing” by<br />

Everything But The Girl. However,<br />

bearing in mind that DJ<br />

Shadow had the final say on the<br />

remixes that made it onto the<br />

album, it’s mind boggling that<br />

Ruby My Dear’s and NiT GriT’s<br />

awful drum ‘n’ bass remixes of<br />

“Building Steam With A Grain Of<br />

Sand” are included. In any case,<br />

let’s hope that these remixes<br />

inspire DJ Shadow to rediscover<br />

his mojo.<br />

Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10<br />

this last title artist<br />

week week<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

1<br />

3<br />

2<br />

5<br />

6<br />

8<br />

4<br />

10<br />

7<br />

9<br />

Something Bout Love<br />

If I had You<br />

Doi yeu<br />

Chay theo anh mat troi<br />

The Mirror<br />

Suy nghi trong anh<br />

5:00 pm<br />

Bang Bang Bang (Radio<br />

Edit)<br />

Billionaire<br />

Dynamite<br />

US Top 10<br />

this last title artist<br />

week week<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />

5<br />

9<br />

7<br />

8<br />

3<br />

6<br />

10<br />

Love The Way You Lie<br />

Dynamite<br />

California Gurls<br />

I Like It<br />

Teenage Dream<br />

Cooler than Me<br />

Dj Got Us Fallin In<br />

Love<br />

Mine<br />

Airplanes<br />

Ridin Solo<br />

UK Top 10<br />

this last title artist<br />

week week<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

xoneFM top ten<br />

NEW<br />

2<br />

1<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

3<br />

7<br />

9<br />

8<br />

Airplanes<br />

Love The Way You Lie<br />

Club Cant Handle Me<br />

We No Speak Americano<br />

Beautiful Monster<br />

Billionaire<br />

Missing You<br />

Airplanes<br />

Pack Up<br />

All Time Low<br />

David Archuleta<br />

Adam Lambert<br />

My Tam<br />

Lan Trinh<br />

Lil' Knight<br />

Duy Khoa<br />

Lieu Anh Tuan<br />

Mark Ronson & The<br />

Business Intl.<br />

Travie McCoy feat.<br />

Bruno Mars<br />

Taio Cruz<br />

Eminem feat. Rihanna<br />

Taio Cruz<br />

Katy Perry feat. Snoop<br />

Dog<br />

Enrique Igleasias<br />

Katy Perry<br />

Mike Posner<br />

Usher Feat Pittbull<br />

Taylor Swift<br />

BoB feat.Hayley Williams<br />

Jason Derulo<br />

B.O.B Feat Harley<br />

WIlliams<br />

Eminem feat. Rihanna<br />

Florida Feat David<br />

Guetta<br />

Yolanda Be Cool & D<br />

Cup<br />

Ne-Yo<br />

Travie Mc Coy feat<br />

Bruno Mars<br />

Saturdays<br />

BoB feat. Hayley Williams<br />

Eliza Doolittle<br />

Wanted<br />

endorsed<br />

The Radio Dept.<br />

By Tom DiChristopher<br />

I was first exposed to The<br />

Radio Dept. in 2006 while<br />

watching Sofia Coppola’s<br />

Marie Antoinette. The use of<br />

New Order’s “Age of Consent”<br />

in the teaser trailer had roped<br />

me in, and I left the theatre<br />

eager to explore the rest of the<br />

film’s soundtrack. The Radio<br />

Dept. track I recalled (“Keen<br />

on Boys”) fit squarely among<br />

the mélange of 80s post-punk<br />

and New Wave bands. Having<br />

heard just a clip, I assumed<br />

they were lesser-known contemporaries<br />

of Coppola’s other<br />

muses: The Cure, Bow Wow<br />

Wow, Siouxsie and the Banshees,<br />

New Order, Adam and<br />

the Ants and Gang of Four.<br />

Turns out they weren’t. The<br />

Radio Dept. first formed in<br />

Lund, Sweden in their current<br />

incarnation in 2001 with Johan<br />

Duncanson on guitar/vocals,<br />

Martin Larsson on guitar and<br />

Daniel Tjader on keyboards.<br />

The trio self-released their first<br />

EP and a couple of 7 inches<br />

in 2002, before Labrador Records<br />

backed their acclaimed<br />

first LP, Lesser Matters, in<br />

2003.<br />

By now, some reviewers<br />

have written off the too-easy<br />

nu-gaze label and denounced<br />

comparisons to Pet Shop<br />

Boys and My Bloody Valentine<br />

as lazy. While Duncanson’s<br />

ethereal vocals were submerged<br />

beneath the fuzz of<br />

instrumentation, The Radio<br />

Dept. weren’t just rehashing<br />

the lo-fi indie pop of the early<br />

90s shoegazers. Tracks like<br />

“1995” wedded sparse form<br />

and content to produce ambiguous,<br />

dreamy songs that<br />

resonate like forgotten memories<br />

recalled (“1995 is cutting<br />

classes / It’s sitting over<br />

coffee talking indie treats”).<br />

What Duncanson, Larsson<br />

and Tjader were doing was<br />

sublimating their reminiscence<br />

of post-punk subgenres into<br />

songs so convincing, they<br />

seem of the time.<br />

A three-year gap between LPs<br />

would set the pace for the<br />

band’s output, but they kept<br />

fans happy with two satisfying<br />

five-track EPs that played like<br />

companion pieces to Lesser<br />

Matters. Coppola plucked<br />

two songs from these for her<br />

soundtrack: “I Don’t Like It<br />

Like This” from This Past Week<br />

and the title track from Pulling<br />

Our Own Weight.<br />

Synths and guitars emerged<br />

out of second LP Pet Grief,<br />

particularly on the tracks<br />

“What Will Give?” and “Tell.”<br />

These are spacious songs out<br />

of which Duncanson’s vocals<br />

emerged with more fidelity.<br />

Still, there was some backlash;<br />

The Radio Dept. is at their<br />

best when lyrics are abstract<br />

rather than playfully trite (“Betrayal<br />

is always sad / Needless<br />

to say what you could have<br />

had”).<br />

Fans waited four years<br />

before the next LP, Clinging<br />

to a Scheme, came out this<br />

spring. “Heaven’s On Fire” and<br />

“This Time Around” are almost<br />

disarmingly up tempo, though<br />

tracks like “Video Dept”<br />

root the album to The Radio<br />

Dept.’s early work. It’s a logical<br />

progression—and a improvement<br />

upon—Pet Grief, but it<br />

also taps into the resonance of<br />

Lesser Matters and its satellite<br />

EPs. Hopefully it won’t be<br />

another four years before the<br />

follow up.<br />

110 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 111


this month in history<br />

Hosting pains are a right of passage<br />

for expatriates in Southeast Asia.<br />

<strong>Brett</strong> <strong>Davis</strong> goes through his.<br />

eing away from home, it is<br />

Bnice to receive things from<br />

our old life: a letter, a postcard,<br />

some favourite foodstuffs, a<br />

drunken buffoon.<br />

This can be a slippery<br />

enough town at the best of<br />

times when it comes to the path<br />

of overindulgence, but nothing<br />

tests your powers of restraint<br />

like a houseguest on holiday.<br />

Hazy though my memory<br />

might be, I have calculated that<br />

in the last six months my wife<br />

and I have had seven people<br />

stay at our home. It has felt at<br />

times as if we were running a<br />

hostel. All we needed was a<br />

pool table and some bad 1990s<br />

dance tunes. I thought perhaps<br />

things were getting out of hand<br />

when I began collecting pamphlets<br />

advertising interesting<br />

attractions and leaving them<br />

around the apartment.<br />

The main problem of course<br />

is one of synergy, if I may<br />

borrow a bit of managementspeak<br />

wankery for a moment.<br />

Your beloved houseguest is in<br />

Vietnam, on holiday; and you<br />

are not. Needless to say, those<br />

on holidays and those going<br />

about their everyday lives<br />

have different priorities. They<br />

want to have fun and party<br />

constantly, while you just want<br />

to get through the working day,<br />

watch a DVD and go to bed.<br />

We had a couple of guys visit<br />

a few weeks ago, my wife’s old<br />

high school friends. It was like<br />

resurrecting the ghosts of Jim<br />

Morrison and Charles Bukowski.<br />

I did not think it humanly<br />

possible to consume alcohol on<br />

that scale. How do you know<br />

when you are past this kind of<br />

behaviour? Here’s a tip: If you<br />

have to ask “Am I too old to<br />

have beer for breakfast?” you<br />

are too old to have beer for<br />

breakfast. At least if you intend<br />

to do it more often than a<br />

once-a-year trip down youthful<br />

inebriation lane.<br />

Before I start to receive hate<br />

mail from friends and family,<br />

I would like to make the point<br />

that it is always fun to have<br />

visitors, and despite the damage<br />

to the liver there are some<br />

unexpected benefits.<br />

If you spend any amount of<br />

time in a place it is easy to become<br />

complacent and overlook<br />

the things that make it special.<br />

But when you are showing<br />

someone around your town<br />

you see it with fresh eyes and<br />

remember a bit of the magic<br />

you felt when you first arrived.<br />

Vietnam is an exotic destination<br />

and can feel a little<br />

overwhelming to someone<br />

just stepping off a plane. The<br />

frenetic pace of traffic, the<br />

language, sounds, smells all<br />

assault the senses. So it can<br />

never fail to impress your<br />

visitors as you display your<br />

mastery (at least as far as they<br />

are concerned) of this strange<br />

environment.<br />

I have a theory though, that<br />

what impresses many visitors<br />

about our new life in Vietnam<br />

comes down to simple economics.<br />

In Australia or the UK for<br />

example, the cost of living<br />

is stratospheric, and I don’t<br />

just mean in comparison to<br />

Vietnam. The last decade or so<br />

has seen a number of factors,<br />

such as a skyrocketing housing<br />

market, combine to make it<br />

harder and harder to live the<br />

life we want to. Most people’s<br />

credit card bills are a testament<br />

to this.<br />

So it is not really surprising<br />

that our visiting friends want<br />

to get in every beer, cocktail<br />

and meal they can manage<br />

while here. Then gleefully tote<br />

up the bill and think about<br />

what that same evening would<br />

cost once the holiday is over.<br />

It has felt at times as<br />

if we were running a<br />

hostel. All we needed<br />

was a pool table and<br />

some bad 1990s dance<br />

tunes.<br />

NZ Gives Women the Vote, Vietnam Airlines Plane Crashes, New York Times Published and more<br />

September 3, 1997<br />

Vietnam Airlines Plane Crashes<br />

Enroute to Cambodia<br />

A Soviet-era Vietnam Airlines'<br />

plane, Flight 815, crashes in a<br />

rice paddy just 800 metres short<br />

of Phnom Penh’s international<br />

airport. Only the tail section of<br />

the plane and a portion of the<br />

fuselage remain intact. All six<br />

crewmembers die, along with 65<br />

passengers. The lone survivor,<br />

1-year-old Thai boy Chanayuth<br />

Nim-Anong, escapes with a<br />

broken leg, but his mother<br />

dies. His father is waiting for<br />

the pair when he sees their<br />

plane plummet and explode<br />

on impact. Other Phnom Penh<br />

residents and police officers also<br />

witness the crash and converge<br />

on the scene to rifle through<br />

the victims' pockets and steal<br />

whatever luggage they can.<br />

The cause of the crash remains<br />

unknown.<br />

September 9, 1976<br />

Chinese Chairman Mao Zedong<br />

Dies<br />

Founder of the Chinese Communist<br />

Party, Mao Zedong, dies<br />

at 82. In 1949, he became the<br />

chairman of the People’s Republic<br />

of China and quickly began<br />

implementing economic policies,<br />

most notably the Great Leap<br />

Forward in the 1950s and the<br />

Cultural Revolution, which began<br />

in 1966.<br />

September 18, 1851<br />

New York Times’ First Edition<br />

Published<br />

Henry Jarvis Raymond and<br />

George Jones found The New<br />

York Times, nicknamed the “Gray<br />

Lady,” to provide an alternative<br />

to the partisan newspapers that<br />

dominated the city’s journalism<br />

at the time. In 1896, Adolph<br />

Ochs takes over the reigns and<br />

the paper’s slogan “All the News<br />

That’s Fit to Print” is coined. Ochs<br />

made it his business to establish<br />

The Times as an international<br />

standard publication, lowering<br />

the cover price to 1 cent and in<br />

doing so tripling circulation within<br />

a year, and pushing advertising<br />

revenue way up. The New<br />

York Times is still regarded as a<br />

newspaper of record.<br />

September 19, 1893<br />

NZ Gives Women the Vote<br />

New Zealand becomes the first<br />

country to allow women the right<br />

to vote. The Electoral Bill, signed<br />

by Governor Lord Glasgow, is a<br />

turning point for women worldwide.<br />

Kiwi ladies first vote in the<br />

national elections on November<br />

28, 1893, and their counterparts<br />

in Australia, the United States<br />

and Great Britain follow suit in<br />

1902, 1920 and 1928, respectively.<br />

While opponents worry<br />

that drunken male voters will<br />

harass the ladies at the polling<br />

booths, the election is described<br />

as the “most orderly” ever<br />

held. As the first to enfranchise<br />

women, New Zealand becomes<br />

known as a trailblazing and<br />

progressive nation.<br />

September 26, 1960<br />

Fidel Castro Gives Longest UN<br />

Speech<br />

Notoriously long-winded public<br />

speaker Fidel Castro gives the<br />

longest speech in record before<br />

the United Nations, winning him<br />

a Guinness Book of Records<br />

title. Lasting 4 hours and 29<br />

minutes, the lengthy spiel is<br />

primarily concerned with the<br />

United States’ interference in<br />

Cuba. He gives an even longer<br />

speech (7 hours and 10 minutes)<br />

in 1986 at the third Communist<br />

Party Congress in Havana. In<br />

a completely unrelated matter,<br />

Castro indirectly earns another<br />

record for a cow called Ubre<br />

Blanca, or “White Udder.” The<br />

cow, which is subsequently used<br />

as a propaganda tool to promote<br />

collectivized agriculture in the<br />

80s, produced 110 litres of milk<br />

in just one day.<br />

112 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 113


Actual Size<br />

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general knowledge<br />

1) What is the nautical term for<br />

the rear of a boat?<br />

2) Members of the OPEC cartel<br />

export what?<br />

3) In a four-part choir, which<br />

vocal range is second highest?<br />

4) How many months of the year<br />

have 30 days?<br />

5) A joule is a measure of what?<br />

world history<br />

6) In what U.S. state was John F.<br />

Kennedy assassinated?<br />

7) Israel gained control of the<br />

Gaza Strip, West Bank and<br />

Golan Heights during what<br />

1967 conflict?<br />

8) Between 1963 and 1965,<br />

Singapore was part of what<br />

country?<br />

9) The period of strikes in<br />

England at the end of 1978<br />

that helped put Margaret<br />

Thatcher in power is referred<br />

to as what?<br />

10) From the 13th to 16th<br />

century, the Aztecs occupied<br />

what modern-day Latin<br />

American country?<br />

sports<br />

11) Would a male or female<br />

gymnast perform on parallel<br />

bars?<br />

12) What Latin word for “boat”<br />

now commonly refers to a<br />

boat race?<br />

13) Of the eight teams that have<br />

won the FIFA World Cup,<br />

how many have only won<br />

once?<br />

14) How many strokes under par<br />

is an albatross, also known<br />

as double eagle?<br />

15) What Olympic sport<br />

combines fencing, pistol<br />

shooting, freestyle swimming,<br />

horseback show jumping and<br />

cross country running?<br />

american directors<br />

114 asialife HCMC<br />

16) What was Orson Welles' first<br />

feature film?<br />

17) What iconic American<br />

director broke into the<br />

mainstream after directing<br />

Jaws?<br />

18) Kathryn Bigelow became the<br />

first woman to win an Oscar<br />

for best director in 2009 with<br />

what film?<br />

19) What art house director<br />

began his career with the<br />

experimental student film<br />

Eraserhead?<br />

20) What director promoted<br />

Nikes as Mars Blackmon?<br />

geography<br />

21) Santiago is the capital<br />

of what South American<br />

nation?<br />

22) In what Italian city would<br />

you visit the Uffizi, the Pitti<br />

Palace and il Duomo?<br />

23) How many states make<br />

up the U.S. region of New<br />

England?<br />

24) What sea is situated on the<br />

west coast of Thailand?<br />

25) The Ganges and<br />

Brahmaputra rivers converge<br />

in what East Asian nation?<br />

number 1 in the 1970s<br />

26) “50 Ways to Leave Your<br />

Lover” was the only #1 that<br />

what legend scored in the<br />

1970s?<br />

27) What female-fronted band<br />

had its first #1 in 1978 with<br />

“Heart of Glass”?<br />

28) What ode to an older woman<br />

off Rod Stewart’s Every<br />

Picture Tells a Story hit #1<br />

in 1971?<br />

29) Styx scored its first and only<br />

#1 with what song, named<br />

after a term of endearment,<br />

off Cornerstone?<br />

30) “The Long and Winding<br />

Road” was the Beatles<br />

second #1 in the 1970s off<br />

what album?<br />

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4 3<br />

9 7 8<br />

1. stern 2. petroleum 3. alto 4. four 5. energy 6. Texas 7. Six-Day War 8.<br />

Malaysia 9. The Winter of Discontent 10. Mexico 11. male 12. regatta 13.<br />

three (England, France, Spain) 14. three 15. pentathlon 16. Citizen Kane 17.<br />

Stephen Spielberg 18. The Hurt Locker 19. David Lynch 20. Spike Lee 21.<br />

Chile 22. Florence 23. six 24. Andaman Sea 25. Bangladesh 26. Paul Simon<br />

27. Blondie 28. “Maggie May” 29. “Babe” 30. Let It Be<br />

Pub Quiz Answers<br />

Featured by cnn.com top ten must eat experiences in the world

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