Otago Climber September 2011 - New Zealand Alpine Club
Otago Climber September 2011 - New Zealand Alpine Club
Otago Climber September 2011 - New Zealand Alpine Club
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<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2011</strong><br />
NEWSLETTER OF THE OTAGO SECTION NZAC<br />
Kenny Lang shows off his Scottish ski-touring attire on a recent club trip to<br />
Dumb-bell Lake and Freehold Creek. Photo: Matteo Scoz
<strong>September</strong> <strong>2011</strong><br />
Please keep the news flowing to otago.climber@gmail.com by the 20th of the<br />
month, so we can all read what you’ve been up to. Thanks!<br />
Contents<br />
Page<br />
Mt Dechen winter ascent 2<br />
Crown Range ski-touring 3<br />
Ohau ski-touring 5<br />
South Ridge of Aoraki/Mt Cook renamed after Hillary 7<br />
NZAC National Instruction Courses 9<br />
Win an Asgard Jacket 9<br />
Everest 60/25 celebrations in Antarctica 9<br />
Discounts at online stores 9<br />
<strong>New</strong> items for sale 10<br />
<strong>New</strong> book - Our Metric Topographical Heritage 10<br />
For Sale 10<br />
Bulletins free to a good home 10<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> Section Committee 2010-11 11<br />
Section Meetings - <strong>Otago</strong> University Staff <strong>Club</strong>, 7.30pm<br />
Wednesday, 7 <strong>September</strong> <strong>2011</strong><br />
Max Olsen will be talking about a recent winter ascent of Mt Dechen<br />
Wednesday, 5 October <strong>2011</strong><br />
Christine Byrch – Climbing in Afghanistan<br />
Wednesday, 2 November <strong>2011</strong><br />
Danilo Hegg – Lake Quill<br />
Wednesday, 7 December <strong>2011</strong><br />
Mal Haskins – Speedflying<br />
Trips<br />
October 1-2: snowcraft course (basic introduction to mountaineering). Contact<br />
Alec Mitchell, 027 2896147, Alec.D.Mitchell@nz.mwhglobal.com<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
1
Mt Dechen winter ascent<br />
In June this year, Max Olsen and James Thornton walked into the<br />
Landsborough wilderness to complete an ascent of the remote Mt Dechen.<br />
Come to the <strong>September</strong> club meeting to hear Max talk about the trip.<br />
James Thornton on the south ridge of Mount Dechen. Photo Max Olsen<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
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Crown Range ski-touring<br />
It was a ‘select band of few’ that met up outside the historic Cardrona<br />
village hall building early on a clear, cold Saturday morning in July.<br />
Martin Curtis was our local NZAC member/guide for the proposed trip<br />
along the eastern side of the Cardrona valley.<br />
Matteo the effervescent Italian arrived and Jono Wills and myself emerged<br />
bleary eyed from the afore-mentioned hall where we had spent a relatively<br />
comfy night sleeping on the floor close to the pot-belly stove which Martin<br />
had kindly lit for our arrival the previous evening.<br />
After leaving one car at the foot of Tuohys Gully we drove to our start point<br />
– a snowy car-park at the south end of the Cardrona valley road. Straight<br />
onto skins and the 4 of us were away following the track ENE up on to Mt.<br />
Hocken 1375m. Looking back we had great views down to Queenstown<br />
and Lake Wakatipu.<br />
The weather was perfect with clear skies, sunshine and virtually no wind.<br />
On reaching the tracks’ highpoint on the side of Mt. Hocken we stopped for<br />
a short break and realised we were overlooking a lovely looking snow bowl<br />
– little persuasion was required for us to strip our skins and take our first<br />
turns of the day. Short but sweet! Matteo’s italian flair was matched by<br />
Jono’s Kiwi style while Martin and I took a slightly more cautious approach.<br />
Skinning above the Cardrona Valley (left); Matteo enjoying some action (right). Photos Jonathon<br />
Wills<br />
It was now mid-morning and getting pretty warm as we skinned back<br />
up to rejoin the ridge to Rock Peak 1490m with Matteo leading the way<br />
with style and apparent ease while we toiled in his wake. I had a prickly<br />
encounter with a ‘Spaniard’ as we contoured around this next summit but<br />
took a break from the skis to enjoy a boulder problem – in my ski boots!<br />
Time was slipping away now so we had an early lunch break before pushing<br />
on towards Mt. Allen 1492m. The ridge line was very wind-scoured but<br />
there was just enough snow to keep us moving on the lee side to the East<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
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and we were distracted by glorious views of the Crown Range mountains<br />
to the west and north.<br />
Our second downhill of the day was welcome relief from the undulating<br />
but gradually upwards progress now northwards to Quartz Knoll 1593m,<br />
our highest point of the trip. We were a little disheartened to realise that<br />
we were still less than half the distance to our endpoint. The doctor – Jono<br />
was beginning to feel the pace on his first ski-tour and wearing downhill<br />
boots but he soldiered on impressively.<br />
Another 3km on we finally reached Queensberry Hill 1531m and gladly<br />
stashed our skins for the last time and set off gleefully downwards on some<br />
lovely firm packed snow. it was not all free and easy though as we had a<br />
long traverse trying to maintain height on a gentle slope before being able<br />
to see straight down to Tuohys Saddle. Now we had our reward with some<br />
nice skiing on relatively easy-angled slopes although the snow conditions<br />
were variable and not ideal. Not surprisingly the snow got heavier and<br />
trickier as we descended and our legs got more and more tired. Skiing on<br />
the path proved tricky for Martin and me although Matteo and Jono made<br />
easy work of it.<br />
Our day ended – as ski tours often do – with a long trudge down a muddy<br />
track in heavy boots with weary legs. Jono was glad to get his boots off<br />
and his trainers on. The sun was setting just as we got back to the car – a<br />
great end to a superb day out. Our reward was a welcome feed and liquid<br />
refreshment at the cozy and iconic Cardrona Hotel.<br />
Thanks go to Martin for offering to organise this tour and for arranging for<br />
us to use the hall as a base. A really worthwhile trip which would only be<br />
bettered by more snow. Highly recommended.<br />
Kenny Lang<br />
Martin, Kenny and Jonno skinning up the mountain; Crown peak in the background (left); Jono<br />
dropping into the Cardrona Valley (right). Photos Matteo Scoz<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
4
Ohau ski-touring<br />
If you asked a random person in Israel what ski touring is, he’ll probably<br />
think you are a tourist interested in skiing – and that you’ve landed in the<br />
wrong country.<br />
Driving up from Wanaka to the Glen Mary Ski <strong>Club</strong> – I did not know what<br />
to expect at all. Stepping in I demanded to know “Who’s in charge of<br />
this place?” – surprisingly, there was no one. It’s a nice little hut with a<br />
fireplace, a kitchen and a bunk room. And there’s also the “headquarters<br />
bunkhouse”, which we were occupying.<br />
And after playing some twister with the children staying in the hut, the<br />
Dunedin crew finally arrived late at night. On the lead it was Shelagh –<br />
and I’d like to take the opportunity to thank her in the name of all the<br />
participants for doing such a great job organizing this trip!<br />
Morning started with brewing some coffee and driving up the ski field.<br />
Surprisingly we met Jeremy (aka the lost Australian with uber-fat-skis)<br />
– who promised to show up and actually did. Going up the chair lift and<br />
climbing up the ridge it looked pretty bare, with no snow at all on the<br />
ridge line – a good exercise for our alpine soles. However, after a short<br />
30 minute walk we got to Mt. Sutton above the Dumb-bell Lake. Looking<br />
down from the saddle, the snow cover was fairly impressive considering<br />
the whole trip started with pessimistic opinions in terms of snow cover. But<br />
what happened is we actually skied some pretty good lines on soft snow<br />
all the way down to the lake.<br />
After a quick lunch we all decided it would be worth going up again for<br />
another run of soft snow before heading on. It was definitely worth it.<br />
Skinning up from the lake towards an unnamed saddle, Kenny decided it<br />
was time to show the world how Scottish he is and started touring with a<br />
kilt – an ancient Scottish tradition. Lucky for us, the wind was not blowing!<br />
Above an unnamed lake we once again stumbled upon a south facing<br />
slope with suspicious snow. After tossing a couple of rocks we realized<br />
it was relatively soft. Two minutes later it was Jeremy who jumped<br />
impressively over the hanging cornice, doing just 3 turns and covering<br />
200m of elevation in less than 3 seconds.<br />
Fade out, fade in – walking on moraines with ski boots is definitely not a<br />
big pleasure. But after these last good slopes we got to ski we were all<br />
motivated and quickly got to the top of the Freehold creek watershed.<br />
A couple of good turns in the Freehold creek and we switched (or at least<br />
I did) to survival skiing, navigating in between the rocks and tussock that<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
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lay beneath the crust. Amazingly we succeeded to ski almost all the way<br />
down to the bush line.<br />
From there it was an easy and marked path (not with ski boots though) all<br />
the way down to Lake Ohau and Glen Mary Ski <strong>Club</strong> hut. And to end that<br />
brilliant day – we were surprised yet again by some curry and rice cooked<br />
by the families staying in the hut. This and beer just topped off a beautiful<br />
day in the mountains.<br />
Dan Fruehauf<br />
Dan - the first Israeli ski bum - in a nice pose for his goat (top); on Mt Sutton (bottom left);<br />
Jeremy jumps off a cornice (bottom right). Photos Matteo Scoz<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
6
South Ridge of Aoraki/Mt Cook renamed after Hillary<br />
Aoraki / Mount Cook’s South Ridge will be renamed Hillary Ridge, after<br />
one of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong>’s most recognised and admired national figures, Sir<br />
Edmund Hillary.<br />
The Minister for Land Information, Hon Maurice Williamson, agreed with<br />
the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> Geographic Board Ngā Pou Taunaha o Aotearoa – <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Zealand</strong>’s place naming authority – to alter the name of the South Ridge<br />
to Hillary Ridge.<br />
Dr Don Grant, Chairman of the Board, said the Minister’s decision, made<br />
on 29 July, confirmed the Board’s recommendation to honour Sir Edmund<br />
and his significant contribution in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> and abroad. After taking all<br />
views into account, both the Minister and Board agreed that altering South<br />
Ridge to Hillary Ridge was most appropriate.<br />
“Sir Edmund was one of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong>’s most loved national figures and<br />
naming a significant and visible geographic feature after this remarkable<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong>er was one of many suggestions made to the Board to honour<br />
and commemorate him and his life’s work,” Dr Grant said.<br />
The feature is a prominent ridge clearly seen from the Aoraki / Mount Cook<br />
village and the surrounding area, and forms an impressive section leading<br />
to the summit of the mountain.<br />
Aoraki/Mt Cook from Copland Pass. The “Hillary Ridge” on the right-hand sky-line. Photo Danilo<br />
Hegg<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
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Sir Edmund’s personal association with the feature began in February<br />
1948, as one of the party of four to make the first successful ascent of<br />
South Ridge. The climbers in that party were guides Harry Ayres and Mick<br />
Sullivan, who both led Sir Edmund and Ruth Adams.<br />
“The location and prominence of this significant geographical feature is<br />
befitting for this great mountaineer and adventurer,” Dr Grant said. “For<br />
people to be able to clearly see this ridge and associate it with Sir Edmund<br />
and his life’s achievements makes it very much a commemorative feature.”<br />
Dr Grant said the altered name will become official when it is gazetted by<br />
the Board on 18 August <strong>2011</strong>.<br />
In response to some submissions, the Board is now currently consulting<br />
on a separate proposal to name an alpine feature between Douglas Peak<br />
and Mount Haidinger after Harry Ayres. The Ayres Ridge proposal is open<br />
for public submissions until 16 <strong>September</strong> <strong>2011</strong>.<br />
Media enquiries: Brad Young, Land Information <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong>, phone +64<br />
4 460 0147, mobile +64 27 277 1267, email media@linz.govt.nz.<br />
http://www.linz.govt.nz/placenames/news-and-notices/hillary-ridge<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
8
NZAC National Instruction Courses<br />
With Pat away until the end of August we are just taking applications and<br />
deposits. However, spaces are filling fast, so if you are thinking of applying<br />
I’d get onto it.<br />
Here’s a link for information and following is a list of the courses and<br />
dates: http://alpineclub.org.nz/national-instruction-courses/alpine<br />
Intro to Backcountry Skiing – 4-9 Sept <strong>2011</strong><br />
Advanced High <strong>Alpine</strong> Skills Course – 20-25 Nov <strong>2011</strong><br />
Mountain Skills for Women – 20-25 Nov <strong>2011</strong><br />
High <strong>Alpine</strong> Skills Course (1) – 19-24 Dec <strong>2011</strong><br />
High <strong>Alpine</strong> Skills Course (2) – 1-6 Jan 2012<br />
High <strong>Alpine</strong> Skills Course (3) – 8-13 Jan 2012<br />
Multi-Pitch <strong>Alpine</strong> Rock Course – 10-15 Mch 2012.<br />
Win an Asgard Jacket<br />
There was a mix-up over having the competition (Advertised on page 17<br />
of The <strong>Climber</strong> mag) linked online and so it wasn’t available for people to<br />
enter.<br />
This has now been rectified and an extended closing date of 31st August<br />
<strong>2011</strong> now applies. Winners announced <strong>September</strong> 3rd. The link is on the<br />
left-hand side of our homepage https://alpineclub.org.nz<br />
Everest 60/25 celebrations in Antarctica<br />
Stephen Venables and Skip Noval are<br />
leading this anniversary expedition.<br />
Please contact stephenvenables@<br />
btinternet.com for more information<br />
on the attached event.<br />
http://alpineclub.org.nz/news/<strong>2011</strong>/<br />
everest-6025-celebrations-antarctica<br />
Discounts at online stores<br />
Did you know that a number of online stores offer discounts for NZAC<br />
members? Check out the following link to see a complete list:<br />
http://alpineclub.org.nz/membership/benefits<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
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<strong>New</strong> items for sale<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> Guides Technical Manual ($25)<br />
http://alpineclub.org.nz/product/alpine-guides-technical-manual-<strong>2011</strong><br />
Beyond the Plains DVD ($20)<br />
http://alpineclub.org.nz/product/beyond-the-plains-dvd<br />
<strong>New</strong> book - Our Metric Topographical Heritage<br />
NZMS 260 and 262 - Our Metric Topographical Heritage - Edited by Graeme<br />
Jupp, <strong>2011</strong> (not an alpine club title)<br />
http://www.cartography.org.nz/index.php?option=com_content&view=a<br />
rticle&id=88&Itemid=109<br />
For Sale<br />
Single BD cam rack: C3 000 through #2, C4, new style = $60 per cam<br />
BD express ice screws: all lengths = $50 per screw<br />
Ski-touring set-up (Atomic heli Daddy 183cm; Dynafit binding 8 skins;<br />
Dynafit women’s boots size 8.5US/41EU with thermafit liners = $800<br />
Scarpa Omega climbing boots = $250<br />
BD Viper ice tools (older grey model) = $250<br />
BD Raven light-weight ice-axe; Volkl Gotama 190s; Masmot Expdedition<br />
down jacket; men’s Patagonia S black climbing pants<br />
Prices negotiable, give us a call thanks – Ian or Kristina 021 138 3356 or<br />
iwelsted@gmail.com<br />
Bulletins free to a good home<br />
I am shifting house sometime soon and need to reduce my bookshelf<br />
needs.<br />
These bulletins will be given away on a first in basis and I will deliver them<br />
to any place around Dunedin.<br />
NZ <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> Bulletin from 1960 to 1991 - (76)<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong> <strong>New</strong>s Letter from 1996 to 2008 - (abt 120)<br />
Federated Mountain <strong>Club</strong> Bulletin from 1976 to <strong>2011</strong> - (abt 90)<br />
Contact Dion Ombler dionombler@ihug.co.nz<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
10
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong><br />
<strong>Otago</strong> Section Committee 2010-11<br />
P O Box 407, Dunedin<br />
<strong>New</strong>sletter email to otago.climber@gmail.com<br />
Name Phone Email<br />
Paul Prince<br />
Chairman,<br />
CCM Rep<br />
03 4730166<br />
027 4714416<br />
paulprince@xtra.co.nz<br />
Russell Pearse Secretary 021 2486671 Russell.Pearse@oceanagold.com<br />
Lindsay Smith Treasurer 03 4761933 Lindsay@plumtree.net.nz<br />
Keith Moffat<br />
Alec Mitchell<br />
Rob Lawrence<br />
Equipment<br />
Basic<br />
Instruction<br />
Basic<br />
Instruction<br />
03 4738903<br />
027 6644037<br />
moffat.k@ihug.co.nz<br />
027 2896147 Alec.D.Mitchell@nz.mwhglobal.com<br />
021 758722 rob.lawrence.nz@gmail.com<br />
Jaz Morris Speakers 027 4069173 jaz.n.morris@gmail.com<br />
Shelagh Ferguson Trips 03 4781129 shelagh.ferguson@otago.ac.nz<br />
Danilo Hegg<br />
Calum Hudson<br />
James Harrison<br />
Chris Henry<br />
Aaron Whitehead<br />
Martin Curtis<br />
<strong>New</strong>sletter<br />
Rock<br />
Climbing<br />
Rock<br />
Climbing<br />
Wanaka<br />
Rep<br />
Wanaka<br />
Rep<br />
03 4730183<br />
027 3392688<br />
03 4739641<br />
027 7105396<br />
danilo_hegg@hotmail.com<br />
calumhudson@clear.net.nz<br />
027 4643797 miny_jimmi@actrix.co.nz<br />
cahenry@clear.net.nz<br />
027 3195152 strider.aaron@gmail.com<br />
03 4438152 martincurtis@clear.net.nz<br />
Peter Wilson FMC Rep 021 1513486 petergwilson@gmail.com<br />
Transceiver and Snow Shovel Hire Scheme<br />
The <strong>Otago</strong> Section has an excellent supply of transceivers for hire – and<br />
each comes with a free snow shovel. Members pay only $5 per day rental.<br />
Book through R&R Sport, Dunedin<br />
A few transceivers, shovels and probes are also available for OSONZAC<br />
members based in Wanaka. Contact Martin Curtis (e-mail and phone<br />
above)<br />
<strong>Otago</strong> <strong>Climber</strong><br />
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