Calcutta & the East - Audley Travel

Calcutta & the East
The northeast corner of India is a unique
region, bearing greater resemblance to
its neighbours – Nepal, Bhutan and Burma
– than the rest of India. The bustling city of
Calcutta is celebrated as the country’s cultural
capital thanks to its great literary and
artistic heritage. Many of the country’s finest
museums and galleries are here in the former
capital and you’ll come across some
wonderful examples of colonial-era
architecture. This, however, is only a tiny
slice of what the region has to offer. Calcutta
is the gateway to this area and a hub for
travel into Assam with its lush paddy fields
and tranquil riverways waiting to be
explored. Assam is also home to some of
India’s most best known tea plantations and
the elusive one-horned rhino. Whether you
choose to cruise along the Brahmaputra or
simply sip tea at your tea bungalow as the
sun sets, you’ll find life gently moves down
a gear. South of Calcutta lie the vibrant
temples and tribal villages of little visited
Orissa with their laidback charm.
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Victoria Memorial, Calcutta
Audley in Calcutta
& the East
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We have first-hand knowledge of this
little-explored region and can ensure that
you see its highlights in comfort and at a
pace suited to you. As infrastructure is
relatively undeveloped, and few people speak
English, we provide a knowledgeable driver
and English-speaking guide to ensure that you
get the best out of your trip. River travel is a
popular way to navigate your way through
both West Bengal and Assam, using the
mighty Hooghly and Brahmaputra rivers to
reach areas inaccessible by road.
Accommodation
1 Calcutta
3 Kaziranga
Marvel at the crumbling colonial
architecture of the British era.
Trees grow out of grand marble
mansions, and street vendors
Track the one-horned rhino
from the back of an elephant,
through this beautiful and
isolated national park.
perch in colonnaded terraces.
4 Dibrugarh
2 Brahmaputra River
Cruise down the Brahmaputra
River, past tiny villages and
farmlands, national parks and
ancient settlements.
Take a walk through acres of
tea plantations as the sun sets
and your guide explains the
complex method of picking,
rolling and drying.
Accommodation in this region is generally
in character properties, such as historic
hotels dating from the colonial period, as
well as safari lodges and stilted tea
bungalows. They are clean and comfortable
and the emphasis is on small, family-run
properties that offer a friendly welcome
and a unique experience. This is where our
local knowledge can ensure that you have
the best accommodation available, and that
your hotel enhances the overall experience.
Accommodation is generally offered on a full
board basis in Assam, and bed and breakfast
in Calcutta.
St Paul's Cathedral, Calcutta
Tea leaves, Assam
5 Jorhat
Visit ancient Ahom ruins
and elegantly crumbling ochre
coloured temples.
Man carrying straw, Assam
6 The Hooghly
Explore the very beginnings
of colonial India, passing the
Dutch and French settlements
of Serampore and
Chandernagore on a boat
trip along the Hooghly.
Tribal Culture
Meet the colourful tribes of
Assam and Orissa.
Find out more
For suggested itineraries and practical
information about travel in Calcutta &
the East, please see page 31.
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Interactive maps and features,
further suggested itineraries,
accommodation, climate information
and articles written by our specialists.
Discuss your plans with our North India
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Calcutta & the East 27

Seller at the flower market, Calcutta
Calcutta
Calcutta (Kolkata) is the former capital of British
India and still exudes a colonial character far
beyond that of any other Indian city. From the
grand imperial buildings that line the wide
boulevards of Dalhousie Square, to the elegant
marble of the Victoria Memorial and the gracefully
aging mansions of Chowringhee, the British
influence is still evident. Stroll down to the book
stalls on College Street or sip coffee at the Indian
Coffee House while those around you discuss
Tagore, Proust and Indian democracy, and you
will quickly understand Calcutta’s long standing
reputation as a centre of learning. Yet in amongst
the remains of a colonial past, India’s vibrancy
shines through in the flower market where locals
haggle over great swathes of orange marigolds
and in the Howrah Bridge, crossed each day by
more than a million commuters.
Oberoi Grand, Calcutta
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Bathers below Howrah Bridge, Calcutta
OBEROI GRAND, CALCUTTA
Since it first opened its doors to Calcutta’s elite
over 125 years ago, the Oberoi Grand has
become an integral part of the city’s Raj heritage.
From the grand sweeping staircases to the
elegant façade looking out over the hustle and
bustle of Calcutta’s streets, the Oberoi Grand
combines the elegance of its past with modern
facilities such as a spa, a number of excellent
restaurants and a good sized swimming pool.
It is within walking distance of many of Calcutta’s
main sites, including the Indian Museum and the
Park Street Cemetery.
Walking tour
Life in Calcutta is lived on the streets,
from the makeshift restaurants set up
each day to feed hungry workers to the
typists drafting letters for their clients
on the pavement. To understand the
essence of the city, you should take to
the streets on a walking tour and be
guided through the maze of avenues and
boulevards, past grand imperial buildings
such as the Post Office, a gleaming white
edifice that contrasts with the staid red
brick of the nearby Writers’ Building.
You will discover a city that is truly the
sum of its inhabitants, as you observe
the flower sellers in the market, the
crumbling remains of a Parsi temple, a
grand Armenian church, a synagogue,
mosque and even a Chinese shrine.

One-horned rhino, Kaziranga Weavers, Majuli Island Villagers drying rice
Fisherman at Jorhat
Assam
Assam is a remote state that follows the course
of the mighty Brahmaputra River. It is bordered
on both sides by mountains that feed the wide
river and also provide a perfect climate for the
region’s most famous export, tea. Assam is
distinct from its neighbouring states, with a rich
and varied history most influenced by the Ahom
dynasty that invaded from Southeast Asia in the
13th century. They bought with them the unique
features of the Assamese and built what are now
the wonderful ochre brick remains of the neo-
Vaishnavite temples. A trip through the region will
take you from rhinos to tribes, river islands to tea
plantations, all the while experiencing the
wonderful hospitality of the Assamese people.
Kaziranga National Park
Kaziranga National Park is famed for its onehorned
rhino, but also boasts a sizeable
population of wild buffalo and Asian elephant,
along with sloth bears, Gangetic dolphins and
Asiatic black bears. Sightings of tigers, although
present, are rare. A combination of jeep and
elephant-back safaris allows you to explore deep
into the 430 square kilometres of elephant grass,
cane, forest, swamps and lakes. Of course, you
may prefer to observe the wildlife from the
comfort of your lodge, while you enjoy a relaxed
sundowner.
Tea picker at work in Assam
Jorhat and surrounds
Jorhat, a bustling market town, is the gateway to
some of Assam’s most fascinating Ahom temples,
monasteries and ancient cities. Dating from the
13th century, the Ahom dynasty left behind many
ornate temples that are unique to this area.
Nearby, the former capital of the Ahom, Sivasagar
(Sibsagar) is a particular highlight, with its ochre
brick temples dedicated to Shiva. Equally, on the
majestic Majuli Island, in the Brahmaputra, you can
learn about the neo-Vaishnavite philosophy, and
meet the tribal Mishmi people.
Dibrugarh
At the furthest reaches of Assam, the fertile lands
are strewn with acres of tea plantations; row
upon row of immaculate tea bushes sheltered by
occasional acacia trees and bordered with lush
paddy fields. From here it is easy to visit the tribal
regions of Assam, where the Mishmi, a tribe of
Tibetan-Burmese origin, can be found. Dibrugarh
is an ideal place to end a trip through the state,
spending a couple of days in a stilted tea
plantation home, drinking cups of Assam tea,
sampling the local cuisine, and taking tranquil
walks through the plantations. For those
interested in seeing a working tea factory the time
to visit is between March and November.
Shiva Dol, Sivasagar
MANCOTTA CHANG BUNGALOW,
DIBRUGARH
The Mancotta Chang Bungalow in Dibrugarh sits
amid row upon row of neatly manicured tea
bushes, some dating back over 100 years. With
only a handful of rooms, the service is attentive,
and the atmosphere is one of a family home.
Little has changed over the years and sepia
photos line the walls, while meals are served on
elegant china with the family silver. It is a perfect
spot to unwind after a tour through Assam,
enjoying walks through the tea gardens and visits
to the local tea factory.
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River cruises: Brahmaputra & Hooghly
Local fishermen on the Brahmaputra River
India’s vast size encompasses some incredible
sites, many previously inaccessible to all but
the most adventurous traveller. Travelling by
boat is the perfect way to explore these
hidden gems while enjoying a relaxing mode of
transport. Cruises vary in length from four to
ten days and you will venture ashore with your
knowledgeable guides to explore key sights
of interest. A journey on the Brahmaputra
takes you through Assam, including some
of the key sites of the Ahom dynasty, whose
roots lie in Southeast Asia. You can track the
one-horned rhino in the Kaziranga National
Park, or sip a cup of Assam tea while gazing
out on acres of neat tea bushes.
Further west a cruise will take you up the
Hooghly and the Ganges, through British,
Dutch and Portuguese settlements, past
delicate Hindu temples, tiny villages and
farmland. You will see intricately carved
temples, sites of key battles from the Raj era
and can keep your eyes peeled for the rare
Gangetic dolphin. At the end of each day you
return to your boat for a sundowner while
chatting about the day’s experiences with your
knowledgeable guides and fellow guests.
ABN SUKAPHA & ABN
CHARAIDEW
Cruising down the vast Brahmaputra or the
Hooghly, maybe with a gin and tonic in one
hand and a pair of binoculars in the other, is
the perfect way to explore areas that are near
impossible to reach by road. These two
12-cabin cruise boats offer air-conditioned
cabins, large sun decks and a comfortable
lounge. The food served is mainly Assamese,
which is a little milder than the cuisine you will
find elsewhere in India, bearing more
resemblance to Southeast Asian dishes.
ABN Charaidew
ABN Sukapha
M/V MAHABAAHU
A new addition to the Brahmaputra is the
M/V Mahabaahu boat, a more luxurious cruiser
that meanders its way through the state of
Assam, with space for 58 passengers in a mix
of suites and cabins. It boasts numerous
modern facilities including a small pool, theatre
and sports room while offering the wonderful
sights and experiences of Assam.
Fishermen at sunset, Brahmaputra
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Suggested itineraries
Tailoring your trip
The itinerary shown is designed to give you a
flavour of what is possible, and is a route that
works particularly well. We can use this as a basis
to plan your trip or can design a completely
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.
Guwahati
Sivasagar
Jorhat
Dibrugarh
Majuli Island
Kaziranga
National Park
Mukteshvara Hindu Temple, Bhubaneswar
Please call one of our North India specialists to
start planning your itinerary.
Telephone: 01993 838 345
Calcutta
Bonda tribal lady, Orissa
Orissa
The laid-back state of Orissa has yet to be
‘discovered’ by large numbers of visitors
and the tranquil atmosphere provides a
pleasant contrast to the more frenetic Indian
cities. The temples and ancient architecture of
Bhubaneswar and Puri are the first ports of
call for many and the beautiful Sun Temple
at Konark, covered in intricate stone carvings,
is one of India’s greatest monuments. These
man-made structures are only a small part of
Orissa’s charm, it is also home to a number of
indigenous groups, who dwell in the hills and
jungles. A visit to one of the weekly markets
provides a wonderful photo opportunity, and
the tattooed faces of the Kutia Kondh are one
of the more recognisable images of the area.
Travel in Orissa can be more challenging than
elsewhere in the Subcontinent, but the
delicious seafood, lively temples and tribal
groups are sure to provide an intriguing visit.
Getting around
There are currently no direct flights to Calcutta
from the UK but there are easy connecting flights
from Delhi, Mumbai or Dubai. Once in the
country, you will have a private driver and local
guides for each excursion. Travel in Assam can be
more challenging than elsewhere in India, with the
standard of English often lower than you will find
in Calcutta, and the road surfaces occasionally
uneven. For this reason we provide a sturdy
vehicle, with a private driver and guide
throughout to ensure that your trip runs
smoothly and that you see the best of the region.
Orissa is generally entered by train from Calcutta
and you then travel in sturdy vehicles thoughout
the region.
When to go
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓
✓✓ The best time to travel.
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
✕ Travel is not recommended.
The best time to visit the northeast and Orissa is
from November to March, with the Kaziranga
National Park closing in April and reopening in
November. April can be unsettled with the
occasional storm, and hazy weather may affect
views of the Himalaya which form the backdrop
to this area. However, this time of year can be
best for wildlife spotting when the grasses are low
and rhinos are more easily seen.
Time difference: GMT+5.5 hours
Flight time from UK: From 11 hours with an
overnight stop en route
Prices
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
for your trip to India on our website, alternatively
please call our specialists to discuss your plans.
India’s Northeast
The northeast offers an incredible wealth of
experiences and this itinerary takes you through
many of the highlights of the region. You will start
with the bustling markets and grand architecture of
Calcutta before continuing on to Assam for a
leisurely cruise along the Brahmaputra. From here
you delve deeper into the state, with visits to
Majuli Island, the Ahom remains of Sivasagar and
the tea plantations of Mancotta.
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
Day 9
Day 10
Day 11
Day 12
Day 13
Day 14
Fly overnight to Calcutta via Delhi.
Arrive in Calcutta.
Explore the old colonial streets
of Calcutta.
Fly from Calcutta to Guwahati and
board your cruise boat.
Spend the day cruising along the
Brahmaputra.
Cruise deeper into Assam, visiting a
small village en route.
Leave your boat and drive to the
Kaziranga National Park for an
afternoon jeep safari.
Track the one-horned rhino from the
back of an elephant in Kaziranga.
Drive to Jorhat.
Visit Majuli Island, the world’s largest
river island and home to colourful
monasteries and tribal groups.
Travel to Mancotta Chang Bungalow
via the ancient Ahom city of
Sivasagar.
Explore the tranquil tea gardens of
Dibrugarh and learn the complex art
of tea production.
Fly to Delhi from Dibrugarh and
spend the night in Delhi.
Fly from Delhi to the UK.
Stay longer
Calcutta and Assam form a wonderful and
contrasting combination with either Bhutan, or
Darjeeling and Sikkim.
Detail from Sun Temple, Konark
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