APPAREL PRODUCTION USING ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILE

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APPAREL PRODUCTION USING ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILE

APPAREL PRODUCTION

USING ECO FRIENDLY

TEXTILE

by

Arief Budiman Darwin A.T

Fabric Technical Dept. Head

PT. Dewhirst Menswear

Hyatt Regency Hotel – Bandung

March 17 th , 2008


Personal

Curriculum Vitae

� Name : Arief Budiman Darwin A.T.

� Place/Birth : Bandung, June 4, 1972.

� College : Sekolah Tinggi Teknologi Tekstil Bandung, 1995

Working Experience

� 1995 ~ 1999 : Production staff for Ade Textile Industries Limited.

� 1999 ~ 2003 : Fabric Technologist for PT. Dewhirst Menswear

� 2003 ~ 2004 : Fabric Sourcing & Development for PT. Best Indo

� 2004 ~ 2006 : Fabric Technical Manager & Laundry Manager for

PT. Dewhirst Menswear

� 2007 ~ : Fabric Technical Dept. Head for PT. Dewhirst

Menswear


GLOBAL WARMING

�� The number of Category 4 and 5 hurricanes has almost doubled in

the last 30 years.

�� The flow of ice from glaciers in Greenland has more than doubled

over the past decade.


TEXTILE CONTRIBUTION

TO MINIMISE GLOBAL WARMING

- ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTION ENVIROMENT

- ECO FRIENDLY PROCESS

- ECO FRIENDLY CHEMICAL

- ECO FRIENDLY FIBRE


NON ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILE

(CONVENTIONAL TEXTILE)

MAN MADE FIBRE

- POLYESTER

- CHEMICAL

FERTILIZER

- PESTICIDES

- POLLUTED SOIL

- OIL CONSUMING

- LONG PRODUCTION

CHAIN

- MORE WASTE

- MORE POLLUTANT

NATURAL FIBRE

- COTTON

- LINEN


ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILE

MAN MADE FIBRE

- RECYCLED

POLYESTER

- FREE FROM

CHEMICAL

FERTILIZER

- NOT USE PESTICIDES

- HEALTHIER SOIL

- LESS OIL CONSUMING

- SHORTER

PRODUCTION CHAIN

- LESS WASTE

- LESS POLLUTANT

NATURAL FIBRE

- ORGANICCOTTON

- ORGANIC LINEN


APPAREL PRODUCTION

USING ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILE

CASE STUDY ON

MARKS & SPENCER


DEWHIRST QUALITY MANAGEMENT

WOVEN FABRICS PERFORMANCE & BUYING SPECIFICATION

DATE SEASON SPEC. REF DEPT

SUPPLIERS NAME

SUPPLIER

ADDRESS

FABRIC

DESCRIPTION

PRODUCT TYPE

(STYLES)

WEAR FREQUENCY

PROMOTIONAL

STROKE NUMBER

CLAIMS

ADDITIONAL SUPPORT NOTES, COMMENTS AND ACTIONS PLANS

SECTION

REF:

CUSTOMER NAME

CUSTOMER

ADDRESS

FINISHED

COMPOSITION

QUALITY REF

NOTES, COMMENTS AND AGREEMENTS

CARE CODE REF

Supplier Signature Dewhirst Signature

ACTION BY COMPLETION

DATE

ACTUAL

DATE


LONG TERM DECLARATION FOR GOODS HAVING PREFERENTIAL ORIGIN STATUS

I, the undersigned, declare that the goods described in this document, which are regularly

supplied to the Dewhirst group , will be produced in the UK/EC and satisfy the rules of

origin governing preferential trade with partner states concerned.

Fabric Quality Country of Origin

This declaration is valid for all further supplies of products from to 31st Dec

I undertake to inform the Dewhirst Group immediately if this declaration is no longer valid

I undertake to make available to the Customs Authorities, if required, evidence in support

of the declaration.

Name Position in Company

Date

LONG TERM DECLARATION FOR GOODS NOT HAVING PREFERENTIAL ORIGIN STATUS

I, the undersigned, declare that the goods described in this document, which are regularly

supplied to the Dewhirst group, will not be produced in the UK/EC and do not satisfy the

rules of origin governing preferential trade with partner states concerned.

Fabric Quality Country of Origin

This declaration is valid for all further supplies of products from to 31st Dec

I undertake to inform the Dewhirst Group immediately if this declaration is no longer valid

I undertake to make available to the Customs Authorities, if required, evidence in support

of the declaration.

Name Position in Company Date

MARKS & SPENCER ENVIRONMENTAL CHEMICAL AND FACTORY STANDARDS - C99

Stroke No.

Quality ref Composition Colour / Description Additional comments

As you are members of the supply chain Marks & Spencer, we would like to draw your

attention to the seriousness of the following document. In order for you to maintain your

status as a supplier to the Dewhirst Group it is essential that you:-

1. Obtain a copy of the latest M&S C99 document

2. Ensure that all products supplied comply with the requirements. This applies to all

current and forward orders for Dewhirst Group.

3. Provide written evidence that each product supplied complies to the legislation.

4. Understand that products, if found to fail against the legislation requirements, will be

returned and full cost charged against the supplier.

5. Maintain a copy of the M&S C99 and work to the latest issue every time.

5b. An Environmental, Chemical and Factory Standards Self Audit must be completed as

C99 document each season

6. Please confirm receipt and compliance of the above by signing below. This will

become part of our supplier file and is a legally binding document.

Name Position in Company Date

MARKS & SPENCER GENERAL MERCHANDISE CODE OF PRACTICE LATEST EDITION

Single Fibre Fabrics

Supplier Composition

I / We confirm that the above qualities conform, to Marks & Spencer General Merchandise

code of Practice for composition as detailed on this document.

Name Position in Company Date


Marks &

Spencer

Company Name Vertical /* Commission

Location/ Factory name

Dyehouse/Printer/Finisher/

Tannery/ Laundry

Environmental, Chemical and Factory Standards – Self

Audit

Product Type *Commission customer Date:

M&S departments

supplied

M&S garment / product

maker

Factory / Worker Safety � Environment Chemicals on Garments/Product �

All fire exits are marked, unlocked and not obstructed Average yearly energy consumption per kg of production

Adequate and appropriate fire fighting equipment is present

in all areas of factory and is clearly marked and accessible

Electricity (Kwh)

No smoking in working areas of factory Oil / Coal / Gas (KJ)

No eating or drinking in areas where dyes or chemicals are

handled

Housekeeping, building construction and environment is to a

standard that does not compromise worker safety

Total water consumption per kg of production

including steam (litres)

All dye and chemical suppliers have confirmed

that their products being used for M&S

production meet minimum standards

Please confirm that the following chemicals are not knowingly

applied or brought in via raw materials at concentrations

above those stated in the Marks & Spencer minimum

standards

Production volume for past 12 months (tonnes) Banned azo dyes

% of batches topped up or re-dyed Skin sensitising dyes

Dye and chemical stores are indoors, dry and tidy APEO's

Confirm no breaches of air emission consent limits in

A material safety data sheet for every dye and chemical is

available in the local language in the vicinity of where dyes

and chemicals are handled

Dyes and chemicals are labelled with appropriate safety

clauses and stored in accordance with MSDS information

Appropriate personal protective equipment and closed shoes

are worn as detailed in the MSDS

All machines have been checked and are electrically and

mechanically safe

The company complies with local health, safety and

employment legislation

previous 12 months Organo tin

Confirm all solid waste is disposed in accordance

with local government recommendations

Untreated effluent is not discharged directly into

water courses

pH

COD

BOD

Effluent pass rate for past 12 months

Suspended Solids

QC Systems Temperature

All dyes and chemicals are weighed or measured (not

scooped)

Metals

No. of

Tests

%

PCP's

Mercury

Moth proofing

PFOS based fluorocarbons

PFOA containing fluorocarbons

Please confirm that the following

chemicals are either not used, or

have been authorised for use by an

Marks & Spencer technologist

Scales are clean, dry and calibrated Toxins / Restricted substances Chromium VI

Indoor greige area Detail water and energy reduction measures

Organic Solvents

Written procedures for all processes

Batch cards accompany every batch of production

Carriers

Pesticides / Insecticides

PVC

Not Used

Used by

Consent


Plan A


About Plan A

Plan A is our five-year, 100-point 'eco' plan to tackle

some of the biggest challenges facing our business and

our world. It will see us working with our customers and

our suppliers to combat climate change, reduce waste,

safeguard natural resources, trade ethically and build a

healthier nation.

We're doing this because it's what you want us to do. It's

also the right thing to do. We're calling it Plan A because

we believe it's now the only way to do business.

There is no Plan B.


The Plan

By 2012 Marks And Spencer aim to:

• Become carbon neutral

• Send no waste to landfill

• Extend sustainable sourcing

• Help improve the lives of people in our supply chain

• Help customers and employees live a healthier life-style


The Five Pillars

Climate Changes

Waste

Sustainable raw materials

Fair Partner

Health


Climate Changes

The Climate Group Campaign

Working with the Climate Group on a major educational campaign in 2007

encouraging people to wash clothes at 30 degrees to cut energy use

and CO2 emissions.

By dropping wash

temperatures from 40°C to

30°C you can save around

40% energy – good for both

the environment and

your bank balance


Waste

Packaging (reduction)

Reducing the weight of non-glass packaging by 25%.

Clothing hangers

Extending hanger recycling

with a customer awareness

campaign to build on the 50

million we currently recycle

and re-use each year.


Sustainable textiles

Reducing the environmental impact of the textiles we sell by trialling new

fibres such as bamboo, renewable plastics and new ways of

producing fibres such as organic cotton, linen and wool.

Organic food

Sustainable raw

materials

Tripling our sales of organic food in the UK and Republic of Ireland


Sustainable raw

materials

Polyester

Using recycled plastic (e.g. used bottles) to make polyester, rather than

using oil. Make ranges of men’s, women’s and children’s polyester

fleeces from recycled plastic within a year. Extend to other polyester

ranges such as trousers, suits and furniture ‘fill’ by 2012.

=


'Fairtrade' clothing

Fair Partner

Converting 20 million clothing garments including £5 plain t-shirts,

women’s strappy vests and oxford shirts to ‘Fairtrade’ cotton – equal

to 10% of all M&S cotton use.


Health

Children's sweets

Removing children’s sweets from till points

Eat Well'

Increasing the amount of ‘Eat Well’

nutritionally-balanced food we sell from

30% of our food to 50%.


DEWHIRST

GARMENT PRODUCT

USING ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILE

- RECYCLED POLYESTER

� FORMAL TROUSER

� FLEECE JACKET

- ORGANIC COTTON

� FORMAL SHIRT

� CASUAL SHIRT

� FORMAL TROUSER

- ORGANIC LINEN

� CASUAL SHIRT


INDONESIAN ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILE ?

� RECYCLED POLYESTER?

� ORGANIC COTTON?

� ORGANIC LINEN?


RECYCLED POLYESTER

(According to M&S Plan A)

Questions :

What is recycled polyester?

Answer :

Derived from waste product which

are then recycled into polyester yarn,

fabric and garment.


Questions :

What are the origins of the waste?

Answer :

Waste products can be originate in 3

ways.

1. Mill waste – waste from original polyester chip

manufacturer.

2. Post industrial waste – waste obtained from

industries that have used the polyester yarns and or

fabrics and have created waste as off cuts etc.

3. Post consumer waste – waste obtained as

collectable waste from consumer use eg. Discarded

PET bottles.


How is the bottle converted into

textile material?

• Conversion from bottle to flake.

• Conversion from flake to yarn.

� Direct method

� Chemical method

M&S policy is using chemical method to

ensure final fabric quality and create more

fabric types


PET Bottle Flake Production

Bottle bales

PP/PE

Floatation Tank

Drying Packing

Pre-washing De-Labeling

Grinding

Label

Sorting

Impurity


PET Bottle Recycling Process

Bottles Flakes

Filament Yarn

&

Staple fiber

De-polymerization &

Re-polymerization

Chips


This trouser

made from

recycled

polyester,

which need 14

plastic bottles

to make 1

trouser


The End

Save the planet

Support

Eco Friendly Textile

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