See PDF version here. - Blue & White Online

New South,
New Belle
Blair Rumley
is a senior from Browns Summit.
She can be reached at bmrumley@live.unc.edu.
A TASTE OF cHAPEL HILL
I have eaten countless chicken burritos at
Qdoba at 2 a.m., I have ordered Gumby’s Pokey
Stix on ‘Big Ass Thursdays’ (often weekly) and I
have devoured more cheeseburgers from Sutton’s
Drug Store than I care to admit. But perhaps my
finest meals have been in one of Chapel Hill’s
swath of restaurants serving up fine Southern
food. I know, no surprise there.
We begin our gastronomic journey at cROOk’S
cORNER: sacred culinary ground for Southerners
. Founded by the late renowned Chapel Hill
restaurateur, Bill Neal, Crook’s Corner recently
celebrated its 30th anniversary under the leadership
of Bill Smith, a James Beard Foundation
nominated chef .
Located on the corner of West Franklin Street
and Merritt Mill Road, the façade of the restaurant
is quirky. A large plastic pig watches over customers entering the restaurant. The interior
is somewhat shabby, but the patio is intimate and surrounded by walls of bamboo. The
atmosphere may be down-home and comfortable, but the food is white tableclothworthy.
Start your culinary experience with the pepper jelly and pimento cheese plate, a
Southern classic with complementing flavors that are spicy but bearable. By far, the best
entrée on the menu is the restaurant’s famous shrimp and grits, sautéed with bacon and
mushrooms and served with a generous portion of sharp cheddar. The Carolina Sampler
is also a solid choice, featuring authentic North Carolina hickory smoked pit barbecue.
And for the finale try the honeysuckle sorbet; it’s made from wild blooms foraged
by Smith himself . In his cookbook, Seasoned in the South, Smith says the sorbet is “like
walking around at night with your mouth open,” and I couldn’t agree more.
The next stop is MAMA DIP’S, where honest country cooking is done right. Chatham
County native Mildred Edna Cotton Council (‘Mama Dip’) took over the restaurant in
1976 with only $64 to her name, and the rest is history. Since then, Mama Dip’s has produced
three cookbooks and become a name synonymous with Southern comfort food.
Tucked behind Franklin Street on Rosemary Street, the exterior—complete with a
front porch—matches the old-fashioned country food that is served inside. The interior
is reminiscent of a subdued Cracker Barrel, with wooden walls and floor. The restaurant
even has its very own country store, displaying bottled sauces and cookbooks autographed
by Mama Dip herself.
Breakfast, best enjoyed on the front porch, is my favorite meal to eat at Mama Dip’s.
I always begin with a steaming hot sweet potato biscuit that begs for butter. The biscuit,
seasoned with nutmeg and cinnamon, looks and tastes like fall. The pecan pancakes
make a good accompaniment. They’re sweet but not overly indulgent—depending on
how much syrup you add, of course. And you can never go wrong with the standard
country ham biscuit. The ham is rudely salty and has a bite, but it’s delicious nonetheless.
For lunch and dinner, the options hold true to Southern tradition: fried chicken,
barbecue and chicken and dumplings. All are good, and all rival my mama’s.
If you are feeling bold, go to Acme, where Southern food gets a fresh face-lift with
an emphasis on locality. Chef Kevin Callaghan has made a name for himself in recent
years with one simple motto: “Damn good food.” Take it from me, he does not disappoint.
AcME is in the heart of downtown Carrboro. The interior is dimly lit with warm,
welcoming burgundy walls that create an intimate feel. The back patio is beyond
charming—a perfect place to retreat to on a warm night with a drink in hand.
Bourbon is a staple at Acme but not just in the drinks. Much of the food is laced
with bourbon, providing a warm and smoky flavor. For example, the smoked local pork
belly, served in an oversized bowl, is smothered in a three mustard bourbon sauce with
cranberry and ginger preserves. Like I said, it’s Southern food with a twist. If you are
there for brunch, the Southern fried green tomato sandwich is the way to go. With a
generous helping of pimento cheese and tomatoes, it is both spicy and tangy.
And of course the desserts get a generous pour of bourbon as well. The mint and
bourbon terrine is divine. A complementary combination of warm and cool, it is cleverly
called a ‘Drunken Girl Scout,’ named for the famed Thin Mint cookies.
Between bites, you will certainly realize living in Chapel Hill is a privilege, and not
just because of the fine institution. Dare to dine.
&