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Civia Hyland Addendum - Civia Cycles

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<strong>Civia</strong> <strong>Hyland</strong> <strong>Addendum</strong>


<strong>Civia</strong> <strong>Hyland</strong>: TeCH FeaTures<br />

This owner’s manual addendum provides details<br />

specific to your <strong>Civia</strong> <strong>Hyland</strong>. More information and<br />

video clips can be found at civiacycles.com.<br />

Fork<br />

The <strong>Civia</strong> carbon fork was designed for reliable high<br />

performance. We incorporated a post-mount disc brake<br />

tab for directly mounting a disc brake to the fork.<br />

By eliminating the IS adapter, we reduced materials<br />

and weight from the complete bike.<br />

CaBle CHannel For DynaMo-PoWereD lIgHT<br />

a specially designed cable channel in the right fork<br />

leg cleanly routes the dynamo light’s wire to the hub.<br />

The channel’s tight tolerances ensure a snug fit.<br />

Maintenance is easy:<br />

1. remove the wire by firmly pulling it out of<br />

the channel.<br />

2. reinstall by pushing the cable until it snaps back<br />

into place (figure 1).<br />

CarBon Fork<br />

The <strong>Civia</strong> carbon fork was not designed for use with a<br />

front rack. Installing clamps to anchor the rack is not<br />

recommended and can damage the fork. a front-rackcompatible<br />

steel fork with mid-blade rack attachments<br />

is available from your <strong>Civia</strong> dealer.<br />

1<br />

Figure 1: Pushing the light wire into the cable channel<br />

CarBon-FIBer STeerer TuBe<br />

The <strong>Civia</strong> carbon fork features a carbon-fiber steerer<br />

tube. If you need to adjust the stem, be sure to<br />

follow the stem manufacturer’s recommended torque<br />

specifications. Failure to do so can damage the unit.<br />

CoMPreSSIon Plug<br />

each <strong>Civia</strong> carbon fork comes with its own compression<br />

plug for properly tightening the headset. Do not use<br />

any other compression plug with this fork or damage<br />

may occur (figure 2).<br />

Figure 2: only use the compression plug included with<br />

<strong>Civia</strong> forks<br />

DynaMo-PoWereD HeaDlIgHT<br />

The <strong>Hyland</strong> features a dynamo-powered headlight.<br />

The light does not require batteries, ensuring reliable<br />

lighting whenever you need it. as with all dynamo hubs,<br />

the more electricity provided, the more resistance<br />

the hub creates. This means that there will be more<br />

resistance when the headlight is switched “on” than<br />

when it is “off.” When you are moving and the light is<br />

switched “off,” the small top safety leD remains on.<br />

This is similar to a car’s daytime running lights.


Frame support plate<br />

Sliding dropout<br />

rear rack<br />

rack stays<br />

Chain guard<br />

Chain guard<br />

mounting plate<br />

Cable guide<br />

plates (8)<br />

Fender stay<br />

Dynamo light<br />

Dynamo hub<br />

2


DISConneCTIng anD reConneCTIng<br />

THe DynaMo WIre<br />

1. grab the connecting piece with your fingers and pull<br />

up, away from the hub. This may require a small<br />

amount of force.<br />

2. To reconnect, orient the connector with the hub and<br />

press down firmly until the connector snaps into<br />

place (figure 3).<br />

FronT FenDer<br />

We created a clean look for the front fender by<br />

using an attachment bolt on the underside of the fork<br />

crown. To access the bolt, you must remove the wheel.<br />

If you choose to remove the fender, <strong>Civia</strong> recommends<br />

reinstalling the bolt in the fork crown. This prevents the<br />

threads from becoming contaminated with road grit.<br />

To ensure a tight fit, we treated each mounting bolt with<br />

a thread-lock coating and included a locking washer.<br />

This secures the bolt and fender, minimizing noise.<br />

TrIMMIng THe FenDer STay<br />

To optimize the fit of the front fender, you may trim the<br />

fender stay. This aluminum strut can be cut with a pair<br />

of diagonal-cut pliers.<br />

1. remove the stay by loosening the loop strap’s bolts<br />

at the fork dropouts.<br />

2. Carefully measure the amount to remove<br />

before cutting.<br />

3. Trim to length (figure 4).<br />

note: Fender stays that are cut too short are not<br />

covered under warranty.<br />

rear FenDer<br />

Sometimes, the fender lacks an evenly spaced—or<br />

concentric—fit. <strong>Civia</strong> provides a spacer kit to move the<br />

fender away from the chainstay bridge. refer to <strong>Civia</strong>’s<br />

online technical section for more details.<br />

3<br />

Figure 3: reconnecting the dynamo wire to the hub<br />

Figure 4: Trimming fender stay to proper length<br />

CaBle guIDe PlaTeS<br />

<strong>Civia</strong>’s removable cable guide plates make it easy to<br />

pull aside cable and hydraulic housing and thoroughly<br />

clean the frame.<br />

1. Secure the bike in a work stand where the cable<br />

guide plates are easily accessed.<br />

2. using a 2mm hex-head wrench, remove the bolt<br />

from one side of the plate.<br />

3. loosen the other side enough to swivel the plate out<br />

of the way, freeing the cable/brake housing.<br />

reaD BeFore reInSTallIng CaBle guIDe PlaTeS<br />

It is critically important to take care when reinstalling<br />

the cable guide plates. Start threading each bolt by<br />

hand. only aFTer the threads engage should you use<br />

a hex wrench to bring bolts to appropriate tightness.<br />

Stripped or cross-threaded frames are not covered<br />

under warranty.<br />

HyDraulIC DISC BrakeS<br />

The hydraulic disc brakes featured on the <strong>Civia</strong> <strong>Hyland</strong><br />

generate a great deal of stopping power. If you are not<br />

familiar with the strength of hydraulic brakes, ride the<br />

bike in a safe, traffic-free area at slow speeds until you<br />

are accustomed to the feel of the braking system.<br />

CauTIon:<br />

• When cleaning the bike or changing a flat tire do not<br />

pump the brake lever while the wheel is removed.<br />

This will compress the brake pads, making it<br />

impossible to replace the wheel without first prying<br />

the pads apart<br />

• Additionally, getting chain lube or grease on the brake<br />

rotors or pads dramatically decreases stopping power.<br />

If this occurs, immediately clean the rotors with a<br />

degreaser and replace the brake pads with a new,<br />

uncontaminated set


SlIDIng DroPouTS<br />

Chain tension is adjusted using <strong>Civia</strong>’s proprietary<br />

sliding dropouts. The sliding dropout accommodates<br />

20mm of fore and aft adjustment. The ideal chain<br />

tension allows ½" of chain deflection, which is the<br />

distance the bottom of the chain loop can be pushed<br />

upward toward the chainstay with the rear hub secured.<br />

aDjuSTIng THe SlIDIng DroPouTS<br />

1. using a 6mm hex wrench, loosen the anchor bolts<br />

on the sliding dropouts on both the drive and nondrive<br />

sides.<br />

2. once the bolts are loose, slide the dropouts as<br />

needed (figure 5).<br />

3. evenly position the dropouts by centering the wheel<br />

between the chainstays.<br />

4. once the wheel and dropouts have been adjusted,<br />

securely tighten the sliding dropout bolts to 18 nm.<br />

DrIveTraIn DroPouT oPTIonS<br />

The <strong>Hyland</strong>’s sliding dropouts are configured<br />

specifically to either the rohloff, alfine, iMotion3,<br />

or derailleur drivetrains. Changing from one style of<br />

drivetrain to another may require new sliding dropouts.<br />

replacement or substitute dropouts are available<br />

from your <strong>Civia</strong> dealer.<br />

PerIoDIC CHeCkS anD aDjuSTMenTS<br />

We recommend periodically checking the sliding<br />

dropout anchor bolts to ensure they are tight. If you<br />

ride frequently in wet, muddy or sloppy conditions<br />

the sliding dropout plates should be removed and<br />

cleaned to facilitate smooth operation and prevent<br />

binding. Do not grease the inside surfaces of the<br />

sliding dropout plates.<br />

Figure 5: loosen sliding dropout then pull back on<br />

wheel to tension the chain<br />

rear raCk<br />

The <strong>Civia</strong> rear rack attaches to the bike at the frame<br />

support plates and upper seatstays. Periodically<br />

check attachment hardware to ensure adequate<br />

tightness. The rack is rated to 40 lb. Carrying more<br />

weight risks product failure and affects the bikes<br />

handling and performance.<br />

loaD DISTrIBuTIon<br />

To facilitate optimum bike handling, loads should<br />

always be evenly distributed. Whenever possible,<br />

place heavier items in lower bags or panniers. never<br />

haul any load that impairs your balance or adversely<br />

affects the stability of the bicycle.<br />

CHaInguarD<br />

The <strong>Civia</strong> <strong>Hyland</strong> chainguard is designed to fit<br />

around the 45-tooth Shimano alfine chainring guard.<br />

To accommodate different drivetrains, the chainguard<br />

on pre-built <strong>Hyland</strong> models uses a mounting bracket<br />

specific to either a 42.7 or 49.2mm chainline.<br />

The alfine chainguard uses the 42.7mm bracket<br />

and the rohloff build uses the 49.2mm bracket.<br />

Modifications to the drivetrain may require a different<br />

bracket or spacers. Chainguards are available from<br />

your <strong>Civia</strong> dealer.<br />

FIne TunIng HorIzonTal aDjuSTMenT<br />

1. loosen the mounting bolts at the seat tube mounting<br />

bracket and the inside of the frame support plate<br />

(above the sliding dropout).<br />

2. Slide chainguard into position and securely tighten<br />

the mounting bolts.<br />

rear HuBS<br />

<strong>Hyland</strong>’s internally geared hubs are high performance,<br />

yet elegantly simple and reliable. When used properly,<br />

they will deliver many miles of hassle-free riding.<br />

SHIFTIng WHIle PeDalIng<br />

To shift while pedaling, ease up on pedaling pressure.<br />

This helps the hub transition smoothly to the next gear.<br />

you’ll find a low-pressure sweet spot in the “dead zone”<br />

at the top and bottom of the pedal stroke—when your<br />

feet are at 12 and 6 o’clock.<br />

4


eMovIng THe rear WHeel: SHIMano alFIne<br />

1. Shift the bike into 1st gear and grab the cable<br />

housing at the stop by the end of the stabilizing arm<br />

(figure 6a).<br />

2. Pull the cable housing and end ferrule away from<br />

the rear hub toward the bottom bracket.<br />

3. When the cable housing clears the stabilizing arm,<br />

move the cable slightly away from the center of the<br />

bike toward you. This disconnects the cable from<br />

the arm (figure 6b).<br />

4. next, use your finger to remove the cable from<br />

the guide on rear hub (figure 6c).<br />

5. gently pull up and out on the cable where the<br />

set-bolt connects with the shifting mechanism<br />

(figure 6d) (visit civiacycles.com for video).<br />

6. once the cable is completely disconnected, loosen<br />

the 15mm axle bolts and remove the wheel.<br />

reInSTallaTIon<br />

1. Place the wheel back in the dropouts and tighten<br />

the 15mm axle bolts.<br />

2. Put the set-bolt back on the shifting mechanism<br />

and position cable in guide around the hub.<br />

3. gently pull cable housing away from rear hub toward<br />

the bottom bracket and set the housing into the<br />

stabilizing arm (visit civiacycles.com for video).<br />

5<br />

Figure 6a: grasp cable housing near the stabilizing arm Figure 6b: Pull housing away from arm until the<br />

Figure 6c: gently remove cable from the rear<br />

hub’s guide<br />

ferrule is clear<br />

Figure 6d: gently pulling up and out, remove the set<br />

bolt from the shifting mechanism


SHIFTIng aDjuSTMenT: SHIMano alFIne<br />

To adjust the shifting for the alfine hub, begin by<br />

shifting into 4th gear. next, look at the rear hub’s<br />

yellow shift indicator lines. These two lines should<br />

line up and point directly at each other (figure 7).<br />

If they don’t, turn your shifter’s barrel adjuster in the<br />

appropriate direction until they do. When these two<br />

yellow lines point at each other in 4th gear, your<br />

hub should deliver perfect shifts.<br />

reMovIng THe rear WHeel: SraM I-MoTIon 3<br />

1. Twist the shifter into 1st gear.<br />

2. Slide the plastic retainer off of the cable stop bracket<br />

(figure 8).<br />

3. Disconnect the shift cable by disengaging the link<br />

from the cable nipple (figure 9).<br />

4. loosen the axle nuts with a 15mm box-end wrench<br />

and slide the wheel forward out of the dropouts.<br />

reInSTallaTIon<br />

1. Place the chain back on the cog.<br />

2. as you pull the axle back into the dropouts, be<br />

sure the retaining washers are on the outside of the<br />

dropouts and the disc brake rotor is aligned between<br />

the pads of the disc caliper.<br />

3. Pull back until the chain is taught.<br />

4. Make sure the cable stop bracket is parallel to the<br />

chainstay and the wheel is properly aligned.<br />

5. Tighten the 15mm axle nuts 30–40 nm.<br />

6. Make sure the shifter is in 1st gear.<br />

7. Hook the link onto the cable nipple.<br />

8. Slide the plastic retainer onto the cable stop bracket<br />

completely (figure 10).<br />

Figure 7: Properly adjusted shift indicator lines<br />

Figure 9: Separate the cable nipple and link<br />

Figure 8: remove the plastic retainer from the cable<br />

stop bracket<br />

Figure 10: Fully assembled<br />

6


SHIFTIng aDjuSTMenT: SraM I-MoTIon 3<br />

To make sure your shifting cable is properly adjusted,<br />

shift into 3rd gear. If your shifting is adjusted properly,<br />

you will not be able to pull the shift cable out of the hub<br />

any further. If you can, shift into first gear and turn the<br />

shifter’s adjustment barrel counter-clockwise to add<br />

tension. If the shift cable is too tight, you will not be<br />

able to shift into 3rd gear. reduce tension by turning<br />

the shifter adjustment barrel clockwise.<br />

reMovIng THe rear WHeel: roHloFF SPeeDHuB<br />

1. Shift into 1st gear and undo the retention bolt on the<br />

non-drive side of the bike (visit civiacycles.com<br />

for video).<br />

2. after removing the bolt, gently pull the shifting unit<br />

away from the bike.<br />

3. When unit is disconnected, open the quick release<br />

and remove the wheel in normal fashion.<br />

reInSTallaTIon<br />

repeat these steps in reverse order to reinstall<br />

TIreS<br />

The <strong>Hyland</strong> is equipped with durable, punctureresistant<br />

Panaracer T-Serv tires. These are proven,<br />

high-performance tires utilizing technology designed to<br />

minimize flats. Partnering with Panaracer, <strong>Civia</strong> added<br />

reflective sidewalls to improve nighttime visibility.<br />

PleaSe noTe:<br />

The <strong>Hyland</strong> was designed for a maximum<br />

recommended tire size of 700c x 35mm. Tires larger<br />

than 700c x 35mm may not have adequate clearance<br />

in the chainstay area. riding tires larger than 35mm<br />

may result in damage to the chainstays or the tire itself.<br />

7<br />

Torque SPeC<br />

- underside of fork crown: 5 nm<br />

- rack bolts: 5 nm<br />

- Sliding dropout bolts: 18 nm<br />

- Cable guide plate:<br />

hand tighten plus “a little”<br />

ToolS uSeD on<br />

CIvIa HylanD<br />

Hex WrenCHeS:<br />

- 2mm - 4mm<br />

- 2.5mm - 5mm<br />

- 3mm - 6mm<br />

Box-enD WrenCHeS:<br />

- 8mm - 15mm<br />

- 10mm


6400 West 105th Street<br />

Bloomington, MN 55438<br />

www.civiacycles.com<br />

952-229-5040<br />

100% Total Recycled Paper<br />

100% Post-Consumer Fiber<br />

© 2009 CIVIA

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