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T H E O N L Y L I F E S T Y L E M A G A Z I N E D E D I C A T E D T O Y A C H T V A C A T I O N S 

T R A V E L 

www.YachtChartersMagazine.com 

VOLUME 3 ISSUE 1 2006 

TURQUOISE COAST 

Sailing Through History in Turkey 

SOUTHERN FRANCE 

Cruising the Camargue 

PACIFIC NORTHWEST 

Vancouver Island 

MegaYacht 

Northern 

Light 

A KIRCAALI MEDIA PUBLICATION 

Plus... 

Discover East Africa’s Beautiful Zanzibar Island 

A New Life for an Alaskan King Crab Fishing Boat 

Catch the Aloha Spirit by Island Hopping in Hawaii

ISLANDER

One day, 

this will be mine. 

Wish fulfillment since 1983.

t a b l e o f c o n t e n t s 

30 

VOLUME 3 ISSUE 1 2006 

f e a t u r e s 

14 

Monster Hunting 

Loch Ness and the Highlands of Scotland 

The Highlands of Scotland might not be the most obvious place to take a 

yacht, but a combination of sea-canals and the largest body of water 

in the UK make it a surprisingly accessible destination for all 

but the largest yacht, with a history which still echoes today 

and some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world. 

22 

Turkey: Sailing Through History 

Dreaming of somewhere warm and exotic 

Let Turkey light up your imagination. Three great things embody Turkey. 

Just a four hour flight away from international London, it has a culture 

which is profoundly different, distinctly unfamiliar. A land on the very cusp 

of Europe and Asia, with two heads simultaneously facing both east and 

west, it embodies the magic and mysticism of the orient. 

30 

Sport Outfitting & Unique Elegance 

Absinthe offers a charter experience entirely sui generis 

Cruising the western coasts of the Americas, 

M/Y Absinthe accents rugged outdoorsmanship in her sporting offerings, 

yet is graced by furnishings and amenities fit for royalty: you! 

38 

Destination Paradise 

Northern Light, heading east to new horizons 

Following five successful years chartering in the Caribbean and the 

Mediterranean, the sumptuous 151ft Royal Van Lent Feadship, 

Northern Light, will embark on her most exotic journey yet: 

the sun-drenched islands of the Indian Ocean. 

66 

Zanzibar Island 

What makes East Africa is so beautiful 

With an abundance of wildlife, coupled with rugged landscapes 

ranging from the sprawling Serengeti to lush rainforests and pristine 

beaches, the region is truly a destination for the ultimate traveler. 

80 

Cruising the Camargue 

The black pearl of the Med 

Cruising the canals of the Camargue in the South of France is 

to sample a vacation experience like no other, as you enjoy 

the local food and wine together with the flexibility, freedom 

and fun that only a self- catering yacht vacation can offer. 

4 VOLUME:3 ISSUE:1 2006 YACHTCHARTERSMAGAZINE.COM

t a b l e o f c o n t e n t s 

14 

44 

58 

10 Caribbean: Discovery Cruising in the Caribbean 

Exploratory cruising in a refined English country-house setting 

20 Company Profile: Afroudakis 

A Greek name meaning the passion for perfectionism 

58 The Pacific: Island Fever 

Catch the Aloha spirit by island hopping in Hawaii 

62 Mediterranean: Home Sweet Port 

Port Grimaud: Luxury living with a yacht in your yard! 

64 Yacht Profile: Wild Thyme 

Bennetti Classic 120ft 

72 Italy: Sublime Vertigo 

The Amalfi Coast & Sicily 

c o l u m n s 

76 Asia: The Andaman Islands 

Floating in splendid isolation in the middle of the Bay of Bengal 

84 Yacht Profile: Super Yacht My Iris 

Aboard for an unforgettable, ultra-chic charter experience 

d e p a r t m e n t s 

8 Recommended Yacht Charter Brokers 

Recommended Air Charter Companies 

9 Editorial 

Weather the Winter Weather 

in Style and Comfort 

42 Captain’s Corner 

Positive Attitude 

46 Resorts 

Mohonk Mountain House 

48 Yachting Trends 

Fractional Ownership 

56 Resorts 

Next Generation Villas 

87 Luxury Goods 

Porsche Carrera 4 Coupe 

91 Luxury Goods 

Harley’s VRSCR Street Rod 

96 Gadgets&Things 

Gadgets for Gamers 

88 Northern Europe: Spirit of The Highlands 

Cruising the lochs of Western Scotland 

92 Pacific Northwest: Vancouver Island 

Live-aboard the dive boat Nautilus Explorer 

s p e c i a l : r e s o r t s 

50 Nassau – Something for Everyone: A long-time favorite destination for the sun and beach starved traveler 

The place is being developed faster than you can say “conch fritter”, though, and the assortment of inns, resorts, 

hotels and other places to hang hat and anchor can be a challenge to negotiate. 


RECOMMENDED YACHT & AIR CHARTER BROKERS 

Afroudakis Yachting is your best choice to escape routine or make an unforgettable 

present for those who you love...Our Greece mega yachts and motor yachts 

will take you to a cherished journey. Choose one of the luxury yachts to make your 

dream come true. Our Greece mega yachts are the most suitable way to enjoy 

an occasion with a great company. Our motor yachts are the most fabulous and 

luxury yachts for two. You’ll never be able to forget your exciting journey due to our 

comfortable Greece mega yachts. Our motor yachts combine style, performance and 

affordability. Get the best from our luxury yachts! 

+030-6974-770050 

af@afroudakisyachting.com | http://afroudakisyachting.com 

Alpha Yachting offers crewed yacht charters in Greece, Croatia, Italy, France, 

Turkey, Spain and the Mediterranean sea. We are proud to offer a wide selection 

of luxury charter yachts for hire in Greece (group and private charter) to meet all 

your needs. All our yachts are clean, fully equipped and well maintained, our crew 

members are polite and can help you with all your travel needs, charter a crewed 

mega motor yacht, motor sailer, sailing yacht, skippered sail boat, bareboat, catamaran 

and set sail from Athens Greece to the Greek Islands of Mykonos, Santorini, 

Corfu, Rhodes, Crete, Zakynthos, enjoy your sailing holiday cruises in Greece. Alpha 

Yachting Greece is managed by Manos Komninos, an established Naval Architect 

with over 20 years experience, who is not only a Yacht Broker, but who can suggest 

the ideal yacht for your vacation in Greece. 

Contact: Manos Kominos +30-210-968 0486 

info@alphayachting.com | www.alphayachting.com 

Angela Connery Yacht Charters ACYC offers you the finest selection in both 

sail and motor yachts with full crew on a worldwide basis. If you’re looking for that 

special charter vacation experience that will leave you with unforgettable memories 

- let Angela Connery Yacht Charters help you with the details of your plans. 

Contact: Angela Connery 877 741-4448 

acyc@comcast.net | http://www.acyachtcharters.com 

Beka Cornish Yachting Thinking about taking a luxury yachting vacation Before 

embarking on your search for the perfect yacht, it is important to decide what type 

of ‘on the water’ experience you are looking for. In the ever growing charter yacht 

section of our web site, we offer our visitors the choice between sail and motor 

yachts of all sizes. If you have not chartered before we can help you decide which 

type of luxury yacht best meets your needs. If you cannot find what you are looking 

for, just let us know your requirements, and we will do the searching for you. 

Contact: Sid Cornish +34 971213073 

sid@beka-cornish.com | www.beka-cornish.com 

Blue Water Yacht Charters was established in 1983. With over 20 years experience 

in bareboat and crewed yacht charter and management, we are uniquely 

qualified to assist in the planning of the best vacation you ever had. Our high 

percentage of repeat clients speak for themselves. Discretion and confidentiality 

are guaranteed. CYBA 

Contact: Karin Garrett 800 732-7245 

yachts@bluewateryachtcharters.com | http://bluewateryachtcharters.com 

Charter Brokers of Alaska Custom Charters... First class yacht and sportsfishing 

voyages in pristine Southeast Alaska and Inside Passage waters. Wildlife viewing, 

sightseeing and fishing with captains with a wealth of local knowledge and 

experience. Crewed or “Skippered Bareboat ” adventures on one of our fleet of well 

appointed vessels - motoryacht or sail. We can tie your charter in with hunting trips, 

visits to Denali, remote lodges and other magnificent places. 

Contact: 1-888-530-2628 

info@charterbrokersofalaska.com | http://www.charterbrokersofalaska.com 

Dream Sailing specializes in luxury, crewed sailing yachts from 55ft. based in St. 

Tropez, France and the British Virgin Islands. We offer a warm welcome and the 

opportunity to taste the glamorous and exciting world of yachting on an affordable 

scale. DreamCatcher is our flagship; other yachts are also available. 

Contact: Michelle Blore + 33 6 64 03 70 20 

info@dreamsailing.co.uk | http://www.dreamsailing.co.uk 

Executive Jet Management /NetJets Executive Jet Management’s charter 

services team is dedicated to providing you with the attention you deserve and the 

responsiveness you demand. A fleet of over 80 aircraft across the United States, 

convenience and comfort, safety and security, ultra-personalized service and professionalism 

- air travel on your own terms. Executive Jet Management is a NetJets 

company with 40 years of aviation expertise. (A Berkshire Hathaway company) 

Contact: Jeff Cropper 877 356-5387 

fly@ejmjets.com | http://www.ejmjets.com 

Golden Yachts offers a fleet of seven luxurious motor yachts, including the 83m 

megayacht m/y O’MEGA. Experience combined with concentration to the finest 

details, along with highly trained crew is what has made Golden Yachts a leader in 

the yacht charter market throughout the East and West Mediterranean. 

Contact: Iro Orri +30 210 967-3203 

contact@goldenyachts.gr | http://www.goldenyachts.gr 

Luxurious Lifestyles at Sea program is a new and exciting opportunity to experience 

the outstanding lifestyle of private yacht ownership combined with exceptional 

levels of service and support. The “at Sea” program allows your dream of owning 

a truly luxurious motor, sport fishing or saiiling yacht to come true. Through a fractional 

ownership program similar to that offered for corpaorate jets, you will enjoy 

exceptional yachting experiences without the time, expense and worry associated 

with individual yacht ownership. 

Contact: 1-866-577-7701 

http://www.llatsea.com 

Marcrista offers luxury cruising and relaxed sailing to remote pristine reefs and 

tropical island destinations. Your fully crewed charter on Marcrista is personalised 

and can include attention to your special interests – sailing, snorkelling, diving, 

adventure cruises, romantic honeymoons, game fishing, marine photography, marine 

biology, seabird life, isolated reefs, frontier wilderness locations, pristine sand cays, 

lush tropical rainforested islands, coastal rainforests, the south pacific’s best reefs, 

historical cultural aboriginal tours, outback wild life and fishing safaris. 

Contact: Mobile 0418 339 753 

sail@marcrista.com.au | http://www.marcrista.com.au 

Ocean Charters yacht accommodations are standard to five star deluxe. Boats 

and yachts range in size from 35 feet to 200 feet, power or sail. This is the secret 

alternative to the cruise! Crewed yachts provide vacations and a price range to fit 

each and every budget. We personalize itineraries allowing the client to pick and 

choose their stops. A crewed charter at any level allows for relaxation, basking in 

the sun or cruising from island to island with the highest level of personal service 

a vacation can offer. 

Contact: Susan Wallace Whiteman 800 922-4833 

susan@oceancharters.com | http://www.oceancharters.com 

Ocean Cruise large yachts since 1985. Luxury Yachts Worldwide 

Partners for a Yachting Life. Charter services: more than 300 yachts worldwide, 

mostly personally inspected by us; cruising areas worldwide; selection of the most 

suitable yacht and crew; preparation of contracts; stakeholders of your payments; 

meticulous charter preparation (special requests, transfers, etc.); stringent check of 

yacht chartered and performance check. 

Contact: Capt. Rags Wheldon 954 524-9366 

usa@ocyachts.com | http://www.ocyachts.com 

Paradise Yacht Charter specializes in locating private yachts for both corporate 

and personal entertaining throughout the world. We spend weeks every year traveling 

throughout the world inspecting these yachts, meeting their crews and making 

sure that they meet our standards for luxury yacht chartering. Whatever power 

yacht or sailing yacht you choose and wherever you choose to charter - you can 

be assured that we have seen the yachts we are recommending - and are not just 

working from a picture book! Our experience and personal service will insure we 

find the perfect yacht for your “Charter in Paradise” 

Contact: Rebecca Riley 

pycmail@bellsouth.net | http://www.paradiseyachtcharters.com 

Peter Insull Yacht Marketing ensures that you have none of the cares yet all the 

pleasure that comes with cruising on the world’s finest yachts. The success of a 

charter depends upon matching the right yacht, the right crew and the right cruising 

area to the differing requirements of individual clients. With many years’ experience 

in the chartering of large yachts we are uniquely placed to help you with every 

detail, from on-board entertainment and leisure facilities, food and drink, to help 

and advise on co-ordinating flights and transfers and the planning of your cruising 

itinerary. There is simply no substitute for experience. 

Contact: Fiona Maureso +33 (0)4 9334 4455 

charter@insull.com http://www.insull.com 

SeaDream Yacht Club Twin, luxury megayachts, SeaDream I & II rated by Conde 

Nast readers as best at sea for Service and Cuisine. The award winning yachts 

accommodate up to 55 couples for special events such as incentives, meetings, 

family reunions, birthdays or anniversaries in the Caribbean, Mayan Riviera or 

Mediterranean! 

Contact: Bob Lepisto 305 631-6100 

info@seadreamyachtclub.com | http://www.seadreamcharter.com 

South Seas International Yacht Broker In pochi anni e con l’aiuto di preziosi 

collaboratori ne fa una delle società più quotate in Italia. Oggi l’ufficio, situato alle 

spalle di uno dei più antichi borghi marinari del Mediterraneo, può far fronte ad un 

vasto mercato, la società, infatti, si avvale della competenza e della professionalità 

che i titolari, Danilo e Davide del Tufo, hanno ereditato dai lunghi anni di attività 

svolti dal padre e grazie alla quale soddisfano le esigenze dei clienti, sia con il 

brokeraggio che con il charter delle imbarcazioni gestite. 

Contact: +39 081 245.24.01 

ddt@southseas.it | http://www.southseas.com 

Stabbert Maritime offers expedition yacht charters for discriminating travelers 

seeking first class adventure while enjoying the ultimate in luxury yachting. Stabbert 

Maritime has over 50 years of experience in providing expedition charters around 

the world. Take a look and see how they may accommodate your charter dreams. 

They provide quality vessel management service for select yacht owners and have 

undertaken numerous overhaul and refit projects. See what their engineering and 

management expertise can do for you. 

Contact: 212 541-6950 

lindsays@stabbertmaritime.com | http://www.venture-pacific.com 

The Club at Emerald Bay Nestled on the shores of a tranquil cove and crescent-shaped 

beach, overlooking the turquoise waters of the Atlantic Ocean and 

Emerald Bay, lies the most spectacular residential resort community in all of The 

Bahamas-Emerald Bay Great Exuma. This 470-acre community redefines tropical 

elegance while capturing the island’s easy-going charm with grand private 

residences, the impeccable Four Seasons Resort and every imaginable amenity of 

a luxurious Caribbean lifestyle. Discover a boater’s haven, a golfer’s dream and a 

beach lover’s paradise. Discover your perfect piece of heaven at Emerald Bay Great 

Exuma. Welcome. 

Contact: 1-866-EMERALD 

www.theclubatemeraldbay.com 

The Sacks Group The Sacks Group Yachting Professionals is a leader in luxury 

yacht vacations worldwide on vessels from 60’ to over 200’. Choose from over 1,500 

yachts and cruise to classic destinations or exotic locales. Services also include 

charter marketing, yacht brokerage and new construction, call (954) 764-7742 or 

visit www.sacksyachts.com. 

Contact: 206 547-6161 

http://www.sacksyachts.com | info@sacksyachts.com 

Trimarine We specialize in large groups of up to twenty. Most of our groups are 

divers or contain divers, though some are not. There will always be scuba instructors 

on board. Large families, friends, YPO’s, clubs and affinity groups all come. We 

also run some Headboat trips for individuals to join. 

Contact: Annie 800 648-3393, or 284 494-2490 

cuanlaw@surfbvi.com | http://www.BVIsailing.com 

TSH One Aero We are cooperating with a selection of reputable and certified air 

charter operators worldwide. They work with efficiency and discretion providing 

our clients with the highest level of safety and comfort. As your charter broker we 

arrange your trip making sure you get the best possible price and the best service. 

Contact: Thierry S. Huguenin +1 242 677 8702 

charter@smartaircharter.com | http://www.smartaircharter.com 

Valef Yachting Valef Yachts offers the largest fleet of crewed yachts for charter 

in Greece. There are more than 400 yachts, motor yachts, motor sailers and sailing 

yachts, accommodating 4 to 49 passengers in comfort. We offer permanent fully 

trained and experienced multilingual crews. Valef Yachts ensures excellent quality 

and reasonable prices on all food and beverage orders. Ask for our “private jet” 

charters. 

Contact: 800 223-3845 

info@valefyachts.com | http://www.valefyachts.com 

Voyage Charters offers exclusive multiple award winning performace cruising 

catamarans. Luxury sailing vacations available in the British Virgin Islands, Spanish 

Balearic Islands and the Bahamas. Crewed charters, bareboat charters and skippered 

charters. 

Contact: 410-956-1880 

info@voyagecharters.com | www.voyagecharters.com 

Yachting Greece has an extensive knowledge of Greek charter yachts that make 

it the best choice when it comes to a yachting holiday in Greece. Understanding and 

fulfilling charterers’ requirements is their chief goal. 

Contact: +30 210 3233057 

info@yachtingreece.com | www.yachtingreece.gr 

YACHTING PARTNERS INTERNATIONAL can help make your dreams real when 

it comes to luxury yachting. Founded in 1972, they are one of the world’s premier 

yacht brokerage houses, with over 150 years’ combined experience in the marine 

business. Their services embrace everything from yacht chartering, acquisitions and 

sales to construction and management and are based on a meticulous, first-hand 

knowledge of today’s luxury yachting world. 

Contact: 800 626 0019 (UK) +44 0 1273 571722 (French) +33 0 4 93 34 01 00 

ypi@ypi.co.uk ypifr@ypifr.co.uk | http://www.ypi.co.uk 

YCO The YCO Charter Management division takes pride in understanding 

what makes a successful yacht charter truly great. Our first-hand knowledge of the 

world’s finest charter locations, coupled with access to the world’s finest yachts, 

guarantees you a yacht and an itinerary that will perfectly suit your expectations 

and desires. The YCO Charter Marketing division draws on our experience to manage 

your yacht’s calendar, maximizing charter potential to fully capitalize on your 

expenditure without compromising your own yachting enjoyment. With our powerful 

marketing campaigns, you’re safe in the knowledge that we’re reaching every 

potential charter client, worldwide. 

Contact: +377 93 50 12 12 

charter@ycoyacht.com | http://www.ycoyacht.com 

NOTE: THIS LIST IS PROVIDED AS AN ADDITIONAL SERVICE TO OUR READERS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ASSUME ANY LIABILITY FOR ERRORS OR OMISSIONS. 


GUEST EDITORIAL 

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EDITORIAL 

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YV&C on E! 

What’s hot in Hollywood this summer... 

BY JIM ARAIZA 

YV&C CONTRIBUTOR 

Jim Araiza went to Hollywood for an interview with E! Entertainment Television and 

answered a few questions for their “Summer Entertainment Guide News Special”. The 

show (check local listings for airtime) covers a number of packages on what’s hot this 

summer from vacation spots, yachts, jets, to new gadgets – basicically 

what you’ll find in the pages of Yacht Vacations & Charters Magazine! 

What is it about yachting that is exotic and exciting 

It’s all about “exploration” and the mystery that unfolds as you cruise, 

especially in the tropics of the Caribbean. From the oceanside, the islands 

look much as they did when pirates and explorers sailed the Caribbean. 

There are still old forts and cannons, and shipwrecks. On shore, you see 

the real world - cars, traffic, crowds. But at sea, you see the real beauty of 

the islands as you cruise from one island to the next. Of course, pirates 

could never dream of the onboard amenities enjoyed by modern “explorers!” 

Charter guests enjoy gourmet meals, ondeck Jacuzzis, and all the perks of a five-star resort. 

What are the advantages to chartering a yacht over just going on a cruise 

Flexibility. In essence, when you charter a yacht, the owner hands you the keys and says, “She’s all 

yours!” You become the owner of the vessel, and the master of her attentive crew. You come and go as 

you please. On a charter, you will never hear a crewmember say, “Make sure you are back onboard by 5 

as we need to get underway.” That NEVER happens - guaranteed! 

Why do celebrities prefer to charter 

Pampering and luxury amenities are important, but you find them at any resort or spa. PRIVACY is 

first and foremost! When you spend your life in the limelight, you crave any chance to get away and just 

be yourself. The paparazzi can stake out a rented villa or a hotel for a glimpse of a star. That’s rarely a 

problem with a yacht. Nobody boards the yacht without the express permission of the charterer. Plus, 

once you pull away from the dock, no one knows where you are going unless you want them to know! 

Can you list some celebrities who have chartered yachts for their vacations 

It’s no secret that many A-list celebrities enjoy yachting. Rod Stewart, Sean “Diddy” Combs, and 

others have talked about their yachting vacations on late-night talk shows, and the paparazzi have captured 

distant shots of folks like Mariah Carey, Matt Damon, and Brad Pitt onboard charter yachts. 

What are the hot vacation spots 

St. Barts in the Caribbean is always popular, especially over the year-end holidays. On New Year’s 

Eve, the yachts dock side by side, to allow the guests to watch the fireworks show and “yacht-hop,” 

going from one yacht party to the next. For solitude, the Bahamas are a fantastic spring destination. 

You can pull your yacht up to a mile-long beach with sugar-white sand, and not see another person for 

hours! In the summer, the top destination is the French Riviera. St. Tropez, Cannes, Nice, and nearby 

Monte Carlo offer European sophistication and old-world charm. YV C 

Jim Araiza is co-owner of SailAway Yacht Charter Consultants. He and hi partner, Jana Sheeder, have arranged numerous 

celebrity charters. jaraiza@1800sailaway.com 

Let us know what you think about YV&C by email: feedback@yachtchartersmagazine.com 

YACHT VACATIONS & CHARTERS 

VOLUME:3 ISSUE:1 2006 9

CARIBBEAN 

Discovery Cruising 

in the 

Caribbean 

Swan Hellenic Minerva II offers 

exploratory cruising in a refined 

English country-house setting. 

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED 

BY YVONNE YORKE 

The first Swan Hellenic Mediterranean cruise traveled to the Greek Islands in 1954, and 

in 1983, P&O purchased the company and furthered its development as a destination-rich 

cruise line, visiting numerous international ports of historical and archeological interests. 

Since 2004, Swan Hellenic is part of the Carnival Corp, along with the Yachts of Seabourn, 

Cunard, NCL, Princess, Costa and Windstar. 


However, Swan Hellenic is a distinctive 

product and a premium brand. Perhaps 

the first thing guests notice when they 

step onboard the 600-passenger Minerva II is the 

richly-appointed furnishings and interiors set in 

a cozy, country-club atmosphere reminiscent of 

an English manor house. Thankfully devoid of the 

distasteful aspects of conventional cruising, there 

are no long lines onboard the Minerva, nor are 

there raised voices, piped elevator music, or glitzy 

atriums which belong in a suburban mall but not 

while sailing the high seas. Everything is very civilized 

yet relaxed, with well-trained, attentive staff 

and a 2:1 guest/staff ratio. 

Minerva’s public spaces are designed with 

comfort and elegance in mind featuring plush carpeting, 

Oriental rugs, trompe l’oeil ceilings, rich 

wood paneling, and artwork gracing the walls. To 

support the enrichment focus of the ship, there’s 

a Regency-style library with a magnificent glass 

ceiling of painted flowers, leather armchairs, a 

fireplace, and over 4,000 books on history, archeology, 

wildlife, politics, art and biographies. 

Dubbed “the most scholarly ship afloat” by 

travel veteran Arthur Frommer, Swan Hellenic is 

the market leader in discovery cruising. Expert 

guest speakers are chosen to bring to life the history, 

culture, and notable aspects of the destinations 

visited. For instance, a cruise of the Amazon basin 

might have onboard a former British Ambassador 

to Brazil; a lecturer on volcanology might explain 

St. Lucia’s sulfur springs; and a wine connoisseur 

might lead a discussion on the wines of the 

Iberian peninsula. 

Both the lectures and the evening performances 

are held in the Lounge. In lieu of flashy 

Las Vegas-style musical numbers, Swan Hellenic 

opts for more refined entertainment such as 

acclaimed classical guitarist Adrian Azeulo, the 

Shakespeare Revue Company, and members of 

London’s Guildhall School of Music and Drama. 

Other onboard diversions include an outdoor 

swimming pool, two Jacuzzis, a sunbathing deck, 

golf-driving net, jogging track, a fully-equipped 

spa fitness center and spa, a card room and an 

observation lounge. 

The clientele is mostly British with a mix of 

North Americans and other nationalities, and 

about 40% of them are repeat guests who know 

exactly what they want while at sea. In addition to 

the draw of the academically-oriented programs, 

they are attracted to Minerva’s unusual itineraries 

which offer hidden-gem destinations as well as 

must-see sites. 

Over the course of the year, the Minerva II sails 

to destinations in Northern Europe and the Baltics, 

the Mediterranean, the Black Sea, Northern Africa, 

the Caribbean and South America. Some new, offthe-beaten 

track destinations for 2006 and 2007 

include Alta, on the Northern tip of Norway - a 

world UNESCO Heritage Site with 6,000-year-old 

rock carvings, as well as Sarande in Albania, and 

the Falkland Islands. 

With the exception of certain itineraries, all 

Swan Hellenic fares include charter flights from 

London to the port of embarkation and return 

flight to London. Inclusive are transfers, accommodation 

and meals on board, port taxes, tailor-made 

shore excursions at each port of call, 

entrance fees to places visited, and tips and gratuities 

to staff onboard and ashore. 

On my Caribbean sailing, the itinerary included 

the Mayan sites of the Yucatan Peninsula, Cayman 

Islands, Port Antonio in Jamaica, Venezuela, 

Curacao, Trinidad and Barbados. I chose to disembark 

and spend extra time exploring Curacao, 

the largest island in the Dutch Antilles. Located 

60 km north of Venezuela, the mainstays of the 

economy are petroleum refining, offshore finance 

and tourism. 

The multi-ethnic cultural legacy of Curacao is 

reflected in many of its distinctive historic buildings, 

which meld African and Jewish influences 

along with European styles. The local dialect is 

Minerva II Interiors 

Leather armchairs, wood paneling and tasteful colour 

schemes create an atmosphere of understated elegance. 

Stepping ashore is always an occasion – never 

intimidating, always welcoming. 

Guest Speakers 

Expert guest speakers are chosen to bring to life the 

history, culture, and notable aspects of the destinations 

visited. 



CARIBBEAN 

Hotel Kura Hulanda 

Nestled amongst gardens, cobblestone paths, and 

open courtyards filled with sculptures and native art, 

the Hotel Kura Hulanda 

“ Curacao offers 

an enthralling 

mix of history, 

cultures and 

architecture” 

Information 

To charter this trip or any yacht you see in 

this issue of YV&C, please contact any of the 

recommended charter brokers listed on page 8. 

Papiamentu, the best developed of the Creole 

languages in the Caribbean – a mix of languages 

from African slaves imported during the slave 

trade, and the island’s Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese, 

French and English colonizers. 

The capital Willemstad is divided into the 

Punda district in the east and Otrabanda in the 

west by St. Anna Bay, which leads to Schottegat 

Harbor. The Queen Emma Pontoon bridge, first 

opened in 1888, connects the two sides of the 

channel. Affectionately known as “The Swinging 

Old Lady”, this 168-meter pedestrian bridge 

swings open to allow for ship traffic at the bay. 

Perhaps the quintessential picture-postcard shot 

of Willemstad is the row of strikingly colorful 

Dutch-style gabled houses along the Punda waterfront 

– the earliest of which are precise copies of 

mid-17th century Dutch buildings. Nearby Fort 

Amsterdam is now partially converted into a bustling 

promenade of seafront restaurants, dutyfree 

international shops, and a floating fruit and 

vegetable market. Completing the picturesque 

waterfront scene are schooners which are tied up 

along the narrow canal leading to the Waaigat, a 

small yacht basin in Punda. 

Another noteworthy aspect of the island is that 

it is home to the oldest continuously inhabited 

Jewish community in the Western Hemisphere. 

The first Jewish settler arrived in 1634, and Dutch 

tolerance allowed the Sephardic Jewish community 

to flourish. By the 19th century, Curacao had 

the largest and most influential Jewish population 

in the Americas. The Mikve-Israel-Emanuel 

Synagogue, which celebrated its 350th anniversary 

in 2001, is the Western Hemisphere’s oldest 

synagogue in continuous use, and renowned for 

its sand floors and the oldest pipe organ in the 

Caribbean. 

Project Kura Hulanda, spanning an eightblock 

historic district along the waterfront on the 

Otrabanda side, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The brainchild of Dutch entrepreneur and visionary 

Jacob Gelt Dekker, and his business partner 

John Padget, this environmental and historical 

preservation project is comprised of a collection 

of 18th and 19th century Dutch colonial buildings 

which includes a boutique hotel, a museum, a 

conference center and an institute for advanced 

cultural studies. To facilitate economic empowerment 

in developing countries through cottage 

industries, the project employs craftsmen from 

Africa, India, Indonesia and Colombia to supply 

furniture, iron gates and other furnishings. 

Nestled amongst gardens, cobblestone paths, 

and open courtyards filled with sculptures and 

native art, the Hotel Kura Hulanda features 100- 

individually-distinct rooms in 65 restored, pastel-hued 

buildings. Next door, the Museum Kura 

Hulanda is a world-class anthropological museum 

featuring a Darwinian chronicle of the Origin of 

Man, displays on West African empires, Antillean 

art, as well as fascinating exhibits on the history 

and legacy of the African slave trade leading to 

20th century race relations in America. 

It’s clear that in addition to the natural appeals 

of sun, sand and scuba which many Caribbean 

islands are celebrated for, Curacao also offers an 

enthralling mix of history, cultures and architecture. 

A fitting and complementary end to a discovery 

cruise renowned for enriching the mind. Y V C 

For more information and reservations: 

1-877-800-7926 or www.swanhellenic.com 

reservations@swanhellenic.com 

About the Writer 

Yvonne Yorke is a luxury travel and lifestyles writer and 

photographer. Hailing from a Hong Kong shipping family, 

she’s a yachting enthusiast and the Mediterranean is 

one of her favorite destinations. 

yorke_yvonne@yahoo.com 


EUROPE 

Monster Hunting 

Loch Ness 

and the 

Highlands 

of Scotland 

Can You Find the Monster 

“Nessie”, as the monster is affectionately 

known, continues to be enormously popular, 

and few people can walk past the loch without 

taking a moment to check for tell-tale 

breaks in the surface. 

WRITTEN BY BILL RAY 


The Highlands of Scotland might not be the 

most obvious place to take a yacht, but a 

combination of sea-canals and the largest 

body of water in the UK make it a surprisingly 

accessible destination for all but the 

largest yacht, with a history which still 

echoes today and some of the most spectacular 

landscapes in the world. 

Loch Ness contains more water than 

all the rivers and lakes in the UK 

put together: it’s over 700 feet deep 

and 23 miles long, and the local peat 

makes the water extremely murky 

and ideal for hiding prehistoric monsters. 

The size of the Loch can make conditions 

remarkably sea-like, with waves generally around 

3 feet but often larger. The top of the Loch is in 

the North East of Scotland, just south of Inverness, 

and along its length it heads South West diagonally 

following a line known as The Great Glen, 

which bisects Scotland in a series of lochs and 

stunning valleys, towards Fort William and the sea 

lochs beyond. 

With so much of The Great Glen already navigable 

by boat it was an obvious opportunity to 

the Victorian canal builders, who could just link 

together the lochs to make a coast-to-coast connection 

and a short-cut from the North Sea to the 

Atlantic. The northern coast of Scotland has seen 

more than its share of shipwrecks over the years, 

not least the remnants of the Spanish Armada 

which had limped north to escape the British navy 

in 1588, and while one ship canal across Scotland 

had been finished in 1790, it was too far south 

to be useful for ships coming from Denmark, 

Norway or the other Scandinavian countries 

Anyone who has seen a British canal will be 

thinking of a narrow channel with towpaths for 

horse-drawn boats unsuited to anything but the 

calmest water, but here in Scotland when they 

build a canal they, don’t muck about; and with 

government money they could afford to think big. 

The explosion of the wool trade had made the 

Highlands valuable land, with only the inconvenient 

presence of local people to disrupt the conversion 

of the whole area to sheep farming, a situation 

which was easily resolved through land clearance 

left a lot of people homeless and provided a 

usefully-local workforce of over 3000 Highlanders 

for the construction of this epic sea-canal. Taking 

almost 20 years to complete, The Caledonian Canal 

was opened in 1822, but improvements to allow 

the passage of ships of up to 500 tonnes weren’t 

completed until 1947. The total length is 60 miles, 

though 38 of those are through the natural lochs 

of Locky, Oich and Ness. There are 29 locks, with 

drops of up to 8 feet at each and 10 bridges – all 

of which swing or lift to allow the passage of large 

craft. Immediately after it was completed the first 

visitors, including Queen Victoria, came to marvel 

at the scenery and the engineering, but as a commercial 

project the canal was undermined by the 

success of the railroad which was already linking 

the cities of Scotland together before the first boats 

transversed the country. Ships coming from the 

Scandinavian countries made use of the short cut, 

and still do, though today most traffic is pleasure 

craft and tours, with Loch Ness being a prime destination. 

The Locks 

There are 29 locks, with drops of up to 8 feet at 

each and 10 bridges: all of which swing or lift to 

allow passage of large craft 



EUROPE 

Picturesque Reflections 

Loch Ness contains more water than all the rivers 

and lakes in the UK put together: it’s over 700 feet 

deep and 23 miles long 

Urquhart Castle 

Originally built by Edward 1st after his victory 

over the Scots at Dunbar in 1296, it was used as 

a base from which to dominate the whole region 

with brutal efficiency. 

“ it is also 

possible 

to charter 

research 

vessels 

equipped 

with 

the latest 

underwatersensing 

equipment” 

All of the locks on the canal are manned, 

as are the bridges, and the keepers are generally 

happy to chat about the local area and 

lend their experience to weather prediction, 

particularly important when setting out onto 

one of the lochs where conditions are much 

more sea-like. Larger boats have to be careful 

not to approach the edges of the loch, though 

where there is any risk a series of buoys clearly 

marks the navigable channel, and there are 

dozens of mooring spots on both sides. Most 

charters start off from Inverness and sail the 

length of the canal, including Loch Ness, before 

returning about a week later, but those feeling 

more adventurous can take their own boat, 

or a locally chartered seagoing ship, and use 

the canal as it was intended: to cross from 

the North Sea to the Atlantic. South of the 

Caledonian is the Clyde and Forth Canal, which 

crosses lowland Scotland at its narrowest point, 

a 35 mile stretch which was also intended 

as a short-cut for those wishing to avoid the 

northern coast. This canal fell into disuse and 

became blocked by developments and bridges, 

but as part of the millennium celebrations a 

massive work of reconstruction enabled it to reopen 

to shipping in 2002. Not only were roads 

re-routed and locks rebuilt, but one staircase of 

locks was replaced by the magnificent Falkirk 

Wheel, an engineering project to rival anything 

the Victorians devised. The completion of the 

Clyde and Forth means that a seagoing yacht 

can now literally go around Scotland, or at least 

a significant part of it, crossing the country 

twice and looping back to where it started while 

passing some of the most spectacular scenery. 

A more pedestrian approach is to start from 

either coast and spend some time exploring 

Loch Ness and the surrounding countryside. 

The Loch is popular with all kinds of visitors, 

and there is a wide range of charters and tours 

available. Those looking to catch sight of the 

monster will be best placed on one of the organised 

tours which feature boats equipped with 

underwater sonar and sounding equipment; 

the peat suspended in the water makes visual 

observation useless, unless the creature decides 

to surface nearby. The Loch Ness Monster was 

first recorded in 565, when it was driven off 

through the power of prayer by St. Columba who 

was in the region spreading Christianity to the 

largely-pagan Picts; there are different versions 

of the story but all culminate in the saint making 

the sign of the cross and invoking the name of 

the Lord to frighten off the beast. A book dated 

1520 apparently makes reference to the fact that 

“Fraser (of Glenvackie) killed the last known 

dragon in Scotland, but no-one has yet managed 

to slay the monster of Loch Ness lately seen”, 

though there are no other references until 1933 

when the owners of the Drumnadrochit Hotel 

claimed to have seen “an enormous animal rolling 

and plunging”; it may be argued that as hotel 

proprietors they stood to gain significantly from 

such a sighting, though their reluctance to discuss 

it would seem to undermine any concern 

of conspiracy. It was this sighting which sparked 

off the international interest, and investigations 

by various august, and some rather less august, 

bodies which so far have turned up nothing 

but some clever frauds and some of the bestmapped 

loch-bed in the world. Despite the 

lack of appearances “Nessie”, as the monster is 

affectionately known by the locals, continues to 

be enormously popular both locally and worldwide, 

and few people can walk past the loch 

without taking a moment to check for tell-tale 

breaks in the surface. 


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EUROPE 

The Highland Club 

The Highland Club with views of the Loch and its 

own mooring, for your own monster hunting or 

just a bit of fishing 


Bill Ray, former editor-in-chief (and continuing 

distinguished contributor to) Wireless Business & 

Technology magazine, has been developing wireless 

applications for over 20 years on just about 

every platform available. Heavily involved in Java 

since its release, he developed some of the first 

cryptography applications for Java and was a 

founder of JCP Computer Services, a company 

later sold to Sun Microsystems. At Swisscom he 

was responsible for the first Java-capable DTV settop 

box, and currently holds the position of head 

of Enabling Software at 02, a UK network operator 

and currently works as a freelance writer based in 

the Highlands of Scotland. 

bill@sys-con.com 

Aside from the organised monster-hunting 

tours it is also possible to charter research 

vessels equipped with the latest underwatersensing 

equipment, but most people will be 

happier with a traditional cruiser such as those 

supplied by Caley Cruisers, who will hire you 

a comfortable craft for a trip the length of the 

Caledonian and back, as well as providing guidance 

and training (essential for some of us). 

They are based in Inverness, at the top of the 

canal, and have a range of boats up to 10-berth, 

though you would want to be amongst very 

close friends to fill one. If skippering, and crewing, 

your own boat sounds a lot like hard work, 

then you might prefer the Hotel Barge Scottish 

Highlander: fitted out more like a country 

house than a ship, her crew of 4 provides a full 

service to 8 passengers including gourmet food 

and visits to all the important sites around the 

Loch on a week’s tour, though the itinerary can 

be modified to suit you. The more adventurous 

can charter a true sailing yacht such as the Eala 

Bhan (Gaelic for White Swan), a 50-ton wooden 

herring drifter which has been refitted to have 

5 cabins into which 12 close friends can be 

squeezed, or fewer less-well-acquainted people 

can travel in comfort. As a seagoing sailboat the 

Eala Bhan can leave the confines of the canals 

and lochs to explore the Scottish islands and 

coastline, so isn’t limited to in-land monsterhunting, 

and while being reliant on the wind 

might be considered a drawback, it’s rare the 

day when at least a stiff breeze can’t be relied 

upon. Regardless of the kind of vessel you are 

standing on, the landscape is formidable and 

it’s easy to understand what successive armies 

since the Romans have found it all but impenetrable. 

Right on the edge of Loch Ness is Urquhart 

Castle, and no spot better demonstrates the 

struggle between Scot and Englishman for 

control of the Highlands. Originally built by 

Edward I after his victory over the Scots at 

Dunbar in 1296, it was used as a base from 

which to dominate the whole region with 

brutal efficiency. When William Wallace rose 

against the English, the castle was attacked 

and fell; changing hands for the first time 

as the English were kicked out of Scotland. 

Edward didn’t take this well, and with a massive 

army he laid siege to the castle and it was 

once again in English hands. Over the next 

400 years it repeatedly changed hands with 

the occupants hardly having time to hang 

the flags before it fell again. All these successful 

attacks might give the impression of 

a badly fortified defence, but it was more the 

enormously important location: overlooking 

Loch Ness and able to control shipping on the 

loch, which made it such an important prize. 

The last residents, English, finally blew the 

place up to avoid it falling into Scottish hands, 

though enough remains to make a picturesque 

ruin full of history and intrigue. A superb 

exhibition covering the history of Loch Ness, 

and the castle, is located nearby and there are 

moorings right beside the castle. 

While Culloden isn’t actually on the Loch 

itself, being slightly to the North on the other 

side of Inverness, no visit to Scotland is complete 

without seeing the site of the last battle 

on UK soil and the place where Bonny Prince 

Charlie’s hopes were finally laid to rest in 1746, 

even if the Prince himself escaped despite a 

30,000 pound reward on his head. The site has 

been re-created, making it painfully obvious 

that the Bonny Prince was no tactician as the 

legendary Highland Charge works best down 

open hillsides, not across swampy moors covered 

in knee-high gorse. 

There are numerous other sites along the 

sides of the loch, including stone-age ruins and 

natural wonders, and we haven’t even mentioned 

golf. Every golf course around the world 

is recreating a patch of Scotland, the home of 

the game, and it is possible to see familiar forms 

in the landscape. Golf is taken very seriously in 

Scotland, and some of the courses can trace 

their history back hundreds of years; in many 

cases it is still possible to play a round if prebooked. 

For those not bringing their own yacht, 

Inverness is connected by air to the rest of the 

UK, including the major London airports, and 

for those wanting to travel in a bit more style 

the overnight sleeper train leaves London every 

evening and enables you to wake up, draw the 

curtains, and see the mountains sliding by, 

though the return journey can be depressing. 

And if Loch Ness grabs you and won’t let go, 

then you can get a managed apartment from 

The Highland Club with views of the Loch and 

its own mooring, for your own monster hunting 

or just a bit of fishing. Or you can do what 

I did and just give in to the call of the mountains, 

glens and lochs, making the Highlands of 

Scotland my home. Y V C 

• Caley Cruses: 

www.caleycruisers.com 

• The Highland Club: 

www.thehighlandclub.co.uk 

• The Scottish Highlander: 

www.hotelbarges.co.uk/scotland/highlander 

• Eala Bha: 

www.highlandvoyages.co.uk 

Information 



recommended charter brokers listed on page 8. 


COMPANY PROFILE 

Afroudakis 

Afroudakis Yachting is a licensed company by GNTO (Greek National Organization of 

A Greek name 

meaning the 

passion for 

perfectionism 

Tourism) based in Athens, Greece, and was in founded in 1978 by Christos Afroudakis, a 

Naval Architect - Marine Engineer and respected member of the following Associations: 

• The Hellenic Yacht Brokers Association (HYBA) 

• The Hellenic Professional Yacht Charters Association (HYPOA) 

• SETE (Hellenic Tourism Enterpreises) 

About the Website 

• ASTA (Association of American Travel Agents) 

The www.yachting-mediterranean. 

com pages were created in April 2005 by 

Afroudakis Yachting Ltd in Athens, Greece. 

These pages present the luxury yachting 

lifestyle in Greece and all the popular 

Mediterranean yachting destinations. 

These real time yachting pages, updated 

every day, promote a concise and up to date 

list of the beautiful classical and modern 

yachts for charter and for sale. We also feature 

some fantastic new projects currently 

in progress and have the most current information 

in regards to business opportunities 

offered within the yachting market. 

Charter rates are listed as per the official 

high season Price List by the yacht owners/ central 

agent. Low season rates and special offers 

are always quoted upon individual inquiries. 

Editorials in yacht projects and yacht 

designs are presented in the press release 

space, serving only an informative purpose. 

They are selected to be admired by visitors 

as we did. There is no connection between 

the owners or authorized parties who have 

kindly offered the material to us in the promotional 

pages with Afroudakis Yachting. 

Services on land transportation are promoted 

as part of a well-structured yachting vacation, 

provided by Afroudakis Yachting and associates. 

Yachts for sale are listed upon owners’ 

approval in the Brokerage Section. 

The Forum is a free advisory column for our 

clientele, owners of yachts or prospective buyers 

and yachting travelers of Mediterranean. Your messages 

can be listed only upon your desire but will 

be replied in your personal account in any case. 

In 1983, Christos returned to Athens after living 

abroad for many years and established 

the naval architecture company AlphaMarine 

Ltd., associating a fine team of yacht designers, 

naval architects, product managers and engineers 

to provide services to the yachting industry with 

new builds and impressive refits to a wide range 

of mega yachts over 100ft. Alphamarine, firmly 

established to this day, still provides full services 

in surveys, inspections, feasibility studies, evaluations, 

consultancy work, design, engineering, the 

technical supervision of refits, complete Project 

Management (turnkey) for newbuilds, and Safety 

Management (ISM/ISPS). 

In 1992 Christos sold his share in AlphaMarine 

(constructor of the Mega Yacht Annaliesse 

launched in 2004) and built his own yacht, the 

displacement yacht Lady K.K, for personal and 

charter use. Together with the ownership company 

Afromarine Ltd, he established a new personal 

company to retain the activities in yacht management 

for private and charter yachts and expand in 

yacht charter business with a background of a personal 

clientele. In 2000 his company was renamed 

to Afroudakis Yachting with major activity in the 

crewed private yacht charter industry. 

Christos Afroudakis has extensive knowledge 

in the shipping and yachting industry owing to his 

vast experience in mega yacht and ship construction/refits. 

Over the years, due to the extensive 

knowledge in technical management and impeccable 

service and standards provided, our fleet 

of charter and management yachts has steadily 

expanded to meet the needs of our clients. 

Afroudakis Yachting handles the majority of 

the crewed charter and private yachts in conjunction 

with charter yacht management and brokerage 

in Greece and steadily increases their share in 

the Mediterranean market. 

Christos’ passion for yacht design has always 

remained the driving force in his desire to share his 

dreams. This is why Christos always proposes to 

prospective buyers of a custom yacht to benefit the 

enormous business opportunities in Mediterranean 

and buyers to combine business with pleasure. 

Traditionally, Afroudakis Yachting provides clients 

with memorable yachting experiences filled 

with the magic of the Mediterranean. Our family 

team at Afroudakis Yachting is committed to providing 

our clients with the comfort and luxury of a 

private cruise, carefully planned and managed with 

the Afroudakis stamp of excellence. 

No one knows the legendary yachting playground 

of the Greek Islands as we do.... No one lives in the 

whole Mediterranean area more than any Greek 

does. Our team participates in all yachting Shows 

and tourism exhibitions in the Mediterranean and 

worldwide annually to inspect yachts and crew, to 

retain a close business relationship with the owners 

and central agents, to learn the news in the market. 

Within our pages you can browse for a wide 

variety of charter yachts in the Mediterranean and 

find special vacation offers and business opportunities. 

Our family team combines the extensive 

knowledge of our products, the professionalism, 

and the meraki* to respond perfectly to our clients’ 

personal needs. We will confirm that we are 

fast, efficient and caring. 

In our pages in www.yachting-mediterranean. 

com you may browse for a wide variety of charter 

yachts in the Mediterranean offered for charter or 

sale and same time you seek for vacation offers to 

benefit, if you wish, from business opportunities 

in Mediterranean. Y V C 


Our fleet consists of over 150 charter yachts from $ 6000/week - $ 840,000/week ! 

Our yachts based in Greece are performing charters in all Mediterranean ! 

m/y Lady KK 100ft 6 cabins 12 guests 

from $ 44,800/week 

m/y Elias 90ft 5 cabins 10 guests 

from US $ 44,800/week 

m/s Odyssey 100ft 7 cabins 14 guests 

from US $ 32,500/week 

Cruise the Greek islands and enjoy the beauty of picturesque landscapes, historical places 

monuments. Swim in crystal and safe waters... No one knows Greece better than we do… 

Head Office : 14, Sirinon str. P.Faliro Athens 175 61 Greece 

Tel. : +30-210-9883595 +30-210-9813667 +30-210-9838236 Fax : +30-210-9883277 

e-mail : af@afroudakisyachting.com www.afroudakisyachting.com


Turkey: 

Sailing Through History 

Dreaming of somewhere 

warm and exotic 

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED 

BY PETER SOMMER 

Let Turkey light up your imagination. Three great things embody Turkey. Just a four hour 

flight away from international London, it has a culture which is profoundly different, distinctly 

unfamilar. A land on the very cusp of Europe and Asia, with two heads simultaneously 

facing both east and west, it embodies the magic and mysticism of the orient. Once 

nomads from Central Asia, the Turks were for centuries the middlemen of the world, famed 

merchants uniting three continents - Europe, Africa, and Asia, as far east as China. Today, 

its people are famed for their warmth and hospitality, a gift of their nomadic ancestry and 

Islam’s code of respect for strangers in a strange land. 


View from Kale 

The view from the top of the Ottoman castle 

at Kale in Lycia must rank as one of the most 

beautiful in the Mediterranean 

The second great thing about Turkey 

is its age. The place is steeped in 

history. It’s the site of some of the 

very earliest cities, like Çatal Hoyuk, 

stretching back 10,000 years. Ever 

after it was a veritable crossroads of 

civilisations. When archaeologists dig in Turkey 

they are confronted by layers upon layers of peoples 

and cultures, from Hittite fortifications to 

Byzantine churches. Before I’d even set foot there, 

Turkey conjured up images of all the things that 

I longed to see, great sun-burnt plains on which 

ancient battles were fought, theatres where Greek 

philosophers declaimed, and the marble clad 

ruins of Rome’s imperial ambitions. 

It’s widely said that Turkey has more and better 

preserved Greek and Roman archaeological sites 

than Greece and Italy combined. The landscape is 

simply riddled with ruins, many of which are virtually 

untouched. You can literally stroll through 

an olive grove and stumble upon a Greek temple 

still standing proud, and have the place all to 

yourself. Many people say part of Turkey’s charm 

is that it is like Greece was thirty years ago. 

The third fantastic thing about Turkey is the 

landscape. About three and a half times the size 

of Britain, it has almost the same population, 

leaving vast areas wide, empty, and pretty much 

as nature intended. Add to that soaring mountain 

ranges, brillant white sunlight, and a vast coastline 

stretching along three seas – the Black Sea, the 

Aegean, and the Mediterranean – and you have a 

truly marvellous holiday destination. 

I first went to Turkey eleven years ago, on a 2,000 

mile walking adventure, to retrace Alexander the 

Great’s footsteps from Troy to the battlefield of Issus, 

Didyma Temple 

The colossal temple of Apollo at Didyma ranks as 

on the biggest and greatest in the Greek world. 




The Gulet Almira 

Hand crafted in wood in Turkey, moored in 

a quiet cove on the Carian coast. 

Celsus library at Ephesus 

A monumental library of marble adorns one of 

the cross roads in Ephesus. (pictured here). 

“ With some 

5,178 miles 

of coastline, 

Turkey is a 

paradise for 

cruising. Its 

south and 

west coasts 

offer perhaps 

the most 

spectacular 

sailing in 

the Med” 

where the epic warrior defeated the Persians for a 

second time. A five-month journey took me down 

the western Aegean coast past some of the giant 

cities of classical history, like Ephesus, Priene, 

and Miletus; deep into the interior through tiny 

farming villages where I was feted as an honoured 

guest; and south through the peaks and valleys of 

the Taurus mountains, where donkeys are still a 

favoured mode of transport. 

A decade later and my love affair with Turkey 

still beats strong. While it was walking that 

brought me to Turkey, today I prefer a very different 

way of travelling: sailing. With some 5,178 

miles of coastline, Turkey is a paradise for cruising. 

Its south and west coasts offer perhaps the 

most spectacular sailing in the Mediterranean, 

full of craggy coves and sleepy fishing villages, 

bustling harbours and deserted bays shaped like 

giant theatres with breathtaking vistas. Littered 

with antiquities, protected by law, large sections 

of it have remained undeveloped, still lapped by 

the clear waters on which the giants of ancient 

history sailed: Achilles, Cleopatra, Julius Caesar... 

In places, mountains of limestone drop 

sheer into the sea, elsewhere pine-forested 

peninsulas stretch out like sinuous fingers, hiding 

a cornucopia of golden beaches, deep gulfs, 

and tiny offshore islands. With such a stunning 

everchanging backdrop, I can’t think of a better 

way to see Turkey, to explore its culture, discover 

such rich ruins, and drink in the landscape, 

than to set sail on a gulet. Spared the need to 

constantly pack, unpack, and change hotels, 

instead one travels in luxurious style. Perhaps 

the key thing for me is that it’s travel the way the 

ancients usually did. It makes thinking about 

the past altogether easier. Out on the waves, 

time can literally dissolve in the water, two millennia 

can disappear from the mind. 

A mad keen sailor, Peter Ustinov once wrote: 

“The sea not only sharpens a sense of beauty 

and of alarm, but also a sense of history. You are 

confronted with precisely the sight which met 

Caesar’s eyes, and Hannibal’s, without having 

to strain the imagination by subtracting television 

aerials from the skyline and filling in the 

gaps in the Collosseum...off the magical coast of 

Turkey you rediscover what the world was like 

when it was empty...and when pleasures were 

as simple as getting up in the morning...and 

every day is a journey of discovery.” 

Gulets are really the vessel of choice for exploring 

the Turkish coast. Handbuilt from wood, usually 

pine from local forests, they’re often as much 

as 80 feet long and sleep between six and 16 guests 

in attractive double or twin cabins. They tend to 

have three or four capable and helpful crew members, 

captain, cook, and one or two mates, who 

do all the work allowing passengers to relax. Most 

gulets have a spacious main saloon, a large rear 

deck where meals are served, and sun loungers on 

the roof at the front. The majority operate for the 

most part under motor, but some are also designed 

for proper sailing. When the sails go up, and the 

engine turns silent, you have the same soundtrack 

as Odysseus on Homer’s “wine dark sea”, the slapping 

of water on the side of the ship, and the wind 

rushing through the canopy. 

Aboard a gulet, one travels in the footsteps 

of ancient Greek pilgrims en route to an 

oracular temple like Didyma, or in the wake of 

Byzantine merchants carrying a cargo of glass, 

like the Serce Limani shipwreck now in Bodrum 

museum, or like Roman tourists on their way to 

see the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the 

seven ancient wonders of the world. 



The Gulet Almira 

Hand crafted in wood in Turkey, moored in 

a quiet cove on the Carian coast. 

Celsus library at Ephesus 

A monumental library of marble adorns one of 

the cross roads in Ephesus. (pictured here). 

“ With some 

5,178 miles 

of coastline, 

Turkey is a 

paradise for 

cruising. Its 

south and 

west coasts 

offer perhaps 

the most 

spectacular 

sailing in 

the Med” 

where the epic warrior defeated the Persians for a 

second time. A five-month journey took me down 

the western Aegean coast past some of the giant 

cities of classical history, like Ephesus, Priene, 

and Miletus; deep into the interior through tiny 

farming villages where I was feted as an honoured 

guest; and south through the peaks and valleys of 

the Taurus mountains, where donkeys are still a 

favoured mode of transport. 

A decade later and my love affair with Turkey 

still beats strong. While it was walking that 

brought me to Turkey, today I prefer a very different 

way of travelling: sailing. With some 5,178 

miles of coastline, Turkey is a paradise for cruising. 

Its south and west coasts offer perhaps the 

most spectacular sailing in the Mediterranean, 

full of craggy coves and sleepy fishing villages, 

bustling harbours and deserted bays shaped like 

giant theatres with breathtaking vistas. Littered 

with antiquities, protected by law, large sections 

of it have remained undeveloped, still lapped by 

the clear waters on which the giants of ancient 

history sailed: Achilles, Cleopatra, Julius Caesar... 

In places, mountains of limestone drop 

sheer into the sea, elsewhere pine-forested 

peninsulas stretch out like sinuous fingers, hiding 

a cornucopia of golden beaches, deep gulfs, 

and tiny offshore islands. With such a stunning 

everchanging backdrop, I can’t think of a better 

way to see Turkey, to explore its culture, discover 

such rich ruins, and drink in the landscape, 

than to set sail on a gulet. Spared the need to 

constantly pack, unpack, and change hotels, 

instead one travels in luxurious style. Perhaps 

the key thing for me is that it’s travel the way the 

ancients usually did. It makes thinking about 

the past altogether easier. Out on the waves, 

time can literally dissolve in the water, two millennia 

can disappear from the mind. 

A mad keen sailor, Peter Ustinov once wrote: 

“The sea not only sharpens a sense of beauty 

and of alarm, but also a sense of history. You are 

confronted with precisely the sight which met 

Caesar’s eyes, and Hannibal’s, without having 

to strain the imagination by subtracting television 

aerials from the skyline and filling in the 

gaps in the Collosseum...off the magical coast of 

Turkey you rediscover what the world was like 

when it was empty...and when pleasures were 

as simple as getting up in the morning...and 

every day is a journey of discovery.” 

Gulets are really the vessel of choice for exploring 

the Turkish coast. Handbuilt from wood, usually 

pine from local forests, they’re often as much 

as 80 feet long and sleep between six and 16 guests 

in attractive double or twin cabins. They tend to 

have three or four capable and helpful crew members, 

captain, cook, and one or two mates, who 

do all the work allowing passengers to relax. Most 

gulets have a spacious main saloon, a large rear 

deck where meals are served, and sun loungers on 

the roof at the front. The majority operate for the 

most part under motor, but some are also designed 

for proper sailing. When the sails go up, and the 

engine turns silent, you have the same soundtrack 

as Odysseus on Homer’s “wine dark sea”, the slapping 

of water on the side of the ship, and the wind 

rushing through the canopy. 

Aboard a gulet, one travels in the footsteps 

of ancient Greek pilgrims en route to an 

oracular temple like Didyma, or in the wake of 

Byzantine merchants carrying a cargo of glass, 

like the Serce Limani shipwreck now in Bodrum 

museum, or like Roman tourists on their way to 

see the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the 

seven ancient wonders of the world. 



“ I can’t think of a better way to 

see Turkey than to set sail on 

a gulet... Spared the need 

to constantly pack, 

unpack, and change 

hotels, instead 

one travels in 

luxurious 

style” 

Kaputas Beach 

A natural cleft in the sheer mountains of Lycia 

offers a perfect beach for relaxing and swimming. 

I remember the first time I visited the ancient 

city of Knidos, a sensational site for maritime 

trade perched at the very tip of the Datca 

peninsula, between Bodrum and Marmaris. 

We sailed and moored up in the city’s old 

commercial harbour, just as merchants from 

Athens, Rhodes, and cities right across the 

Mediterranean would have done over 2,000 

years ago. My fellow travellers and I gawped in 

wonder, as we eased into the ancient port, and 

its monuments took shape: the small theatre, 

the rows of houses, the miles of fortifications 

climbing up a steep ridge. We anchored where 

countless vessels had previously – large cargo 

ships, local fishing boats, perhaps even some 

fighting triremes. Even today the ancient mooring 

stones where they tied up are still visible, 

projecting out from the harbour walls. 

One of the defining characteristics of a gulet 

trip is the back-to-nature appreciation of the 

simple things: the clean fresh air, the canopy 

of stars at night, the time to lounge about and 

read. Swimming in the crystal waters of the 

celebrated turquoise coast is of course one of 

the frequent highlights, and there are usually 

windsurfers, kayaks, and snorkelling gear available 

for the slightly more adventurous. 

Alongside the archaeology and the relaxed 

atmosphere, one of the greatest delights is the 

food. Turkish food is justly famed, often ranked 

as one of the three pre-eminent cuisines in the 

world alongside French and Chinese. The focus 

is all about simple but incredibly fresh local 

ingredients, often grown organically or raised 

free range. You only have to taste a tomato in 

Turkey to see the difference. It’s surprising how 

even on the smallest gulets, out of the tiniest 

of galleys, the boat’s cook can produce such 

a variety of fresh local delicacies. A Turkish 

breakfast typically consists of bread, tomatoes, 

cucumbers, olives, cheese, eggs, yoghurt 

and honey. Lunch and dinner are usually one 

or two main courses, accompanied by salads 

and mezes, Turkey’s speciality starters, including 

cacik (a garlic and cucumber yoghurt), 

biber dolma (stuffed peppers), and sigara borek 

(white cheese and herbs in a cigarette shaped 

filo pastry wrap). Fruit is a mainstay item, and 

ranges through the seasons from cherries and 

strawberries, to melon and figs. 

But with so many miles of coast, where do 

you choose to sail Three areas are particular 

favourites of mine. First is the ancient region of 

Lycia, a giant bulge into the Mediterranean on 

Turkey’s underbelly. Situated between Fethiye 

and Antalya, it’s an area oozing with myths 

and brimming with archaeology. Here, behind 

the soaring Taurus mountains, an extraordinary 

culture and a fiercely independent people 

developed. Their funerary architecture, unlike 

anything else in the world, still litters their once 

prosperous ports. 

This was the fabled land of the Chimaera, 

a dreaded monster from Greek mythology, 

described as early as Homer: 

“She was of divine race, not of men, in the 

fore part a lion, at the rear a serpent, and in 

the middle a goat, breathing forth in terrible 

manner the force of blazing fire.” 

The legend probably owes its origins to an 

extraordinary site high up in the hills. Sacred 

since time immemorial, it was the main sanctuary 

of the port city of Olympus. Here flames 



Swimming off stern 

The tiny coves and pretty 

bays of the Turkish coast 

make for a swimmer’s 

paradise. 

Sogut Goats 

Typical scenery along the unspoilt coast of Caria. 

Information 



recommended charter brokers listed on page 8 


Peter Sommer runs a specialist travel company 

offering archaeological tours, cruises, and yacht 

charters in Turkey. An archaeologist and documentary 

producer/director he has worked on many acclaimed 

BBC/PBS/CNN TV series including In the footsteps 

of Alexander the Great, Commanding Heights: the 

battle for the world economy, and Millennium: a 

thousand years of history. His most recent series, 

Tales from the Green Valley, about life on a Welsh 

farm in the year 1620, was shown to rave reviews 

last autumn on BBC2 in the UK. For more information 

please visit www.petersommer.com 

info@petersommer.com 

leap out of the ground, a phenomenon arising 

from a subterranean pocket of natural gas 

which spontaneously ignites on contact with 

the outside air. 

Not only is a gulet cruise the best way to 

explore such an essentially maritime civilisation, 

sometimes it’s the only way. Even now, there are 

tiny coastal villages which are accessible only by 

sea. One favourite is the sleepy hamlet of Kale, on 

the southern tip of Lycia. Above a few piers where 

small fishing boats jostle, rises a ramshackle series 

of houses made from ancient stones. Dominating 

the entire scene is a mighty Ottoman fortress built 

550 years ago to overpower the Christian knights 

of Rhodes and secure the all important sea lanes 

between Constantinople and Jerusalem. The castle, 

however, was a latecomer. 1,800 years before, 

a small town called Simena was perched here. Its 

small Greek style theatre sits slap in the middle of 

the Ottoman castle, and all through the village are 

tombs hewn into the rock, and sarcophagi standing 

ten feet tall. 

A second great area for sailing is west of 

Lycia, the ancient region of Caria, between 

Bodrum and Fethiye. This was the ancient 

realm of Mausolus, a powerful dynasty 2,400 

years ago. A strategically vital region, densely 

packed in antiquity with rich cities, it was jealously 

guarded and sought after. Alexander the 

Great liberated it from Persia, Rhodes sought 

to annexe it into her own empire, and the legacy 

of Crusader castles still speaks of the epic 

battle that raged along this coast between rival 

religions, Christianity and Islam. Today, there 

remains a wonderful blend of architectural and 

historic marvels. The exquisite temple tombs 

of Caunos, carved into a cliff face by masons 

dangling from ropes; the monumental city of 

Knidos, famed for Praxiteles’ infamous statue 

of Aphrodite, the first female nude in history; 

and Halicarnassus itself, site of the fabled mausoleum 

and the mighty fortress of St. Peter. 

A third glorious area for cruising is ancient 

Ionia, to the north of Bodrum. Along this stretch 

of coast developed a civilisation of quite exceptional 

brilliance. In the centuries before Alexander 

the Great, the dynamic cities of Ionia helped lay 

the foundations of Greek literature, science, and 

philosophy, never mind architecture. 

Under Rome, these cities became ever more 

rich, prosperous, and beautiful - full of the finest 

temples, theatres and markets that money 

could buy. The highlights are plentiful: from the 

pretty little harbour of Myndos, where Cassius 

fled after murdering Julius Caesar; to the marvellously 

preserved Hellenistic city of Priene, 

where the houses, streets, and public buildings 

are laid out across a hillside in a perfect grid; 

and of course, Ephesus, capital of Roman Asia. 

This was one of the very first cities in the world 

to have street lighting. The site is magnificent, 

a cornucopia of colonnaded streets, agoras, 

baths, private villas, a theatre for 28,000, and an 

extraordinary library. 

If you fancy exploring some of the world’s 

finest ancient wonders, spring or autumn is the 

best time to go. April and early May sees Turkey 

decked out with a stunning display of wildflowers. 

From the end of May through the start of June 

the sea becomes swimmable before the summer 

heat scorches, while September through October 

is perfect for leisurely bathing. Y V C 


from 

Start... 

 

 

 

 

...to 

Finish 

 

 

 

 

©COPYRIGHT 2006 

FIRST NEW ENGLAND FINANCIAL © IS A WHOLLY-OWNED SUBSIDIARY OF NORTH FORK BANK © , A $60 BILLION INSTITUTION AND THE COUNTRY’S 16TH LARGEST COMMERCIAL LENDING BANK. WWW.NORTHFORKBANK.COM

AVENTURE CHARTER 

sport Outfitting 

WRITTEN BY SCOTT ROSE 

The newly refitted megayacht 

Absinthe offers a charter 

experience entirely sui generis 

Cruising the western coasts of the 

Americas, M/Y Absinthe accents rugged 

outdoorsmanship in her sporting offerings, 

yet is graced by furnishings and amenities 

fit for royalty: you! 


& Unique Elegance 

Absinthe. The very name conjures up images of individualistic elite transported in highest 

style to where none had previously ventured. Vincent van Gogh, Edouard Manet, Pablo 

Picasso and Ernest Hemingway all were inspired by absinthe, a liqueur distilled with the 

Old World plant Artemisia absinthium, famed for inducing a singular inebriation marked 

by a heightened, ultra-clear perception of the cosmos. 

Now, there is an exploration-grade megayacht distinguished by the name Absinthe. 

Originally built in Spain in 1973 by Astilleros y Talleres Celaya, she was acquired by Sea to Sky Adventures 

and Megayacht Adventures and then given a comprehensive, years-long refit rendering her superior to 

many a brand new yacht. 

Thanks to Absinthe’s helipad, charter guests may take advantage of Sea to Sky’s “Double Mobility 

Concept.” While there certainly are other megayachts with helipads, few of them offer copter sightseeing 

of otherwise unreachable terrain and no other offers heliskiing. 

Absinthe’s cruising grounds are the western coast of the Americas. During heliskiing season, from 

early February through the end of April, she travels along the British Colombian shoreline, her copter 



ADVENTURE CHARTER 

Library 

Owner’s Suite 

Theater Room 

Interior Design 

Absinthe’s interior boasts an uncommon visual 

warmth, a fulfillment of the vision of 

Karin Civitella, head of Civitella Design. 

whisking skiers up to lofty mountain summits 

where virgin boot-top powder fills wide open 

snowbowls surrounded by towering ancient 

glaciers. Après-ski indulgences may include a 

relaxing soak in the yacht’s fly bridge 80-hydrojet 

massage Jacuzzi with its towel warmer, fiberoptic 

lighting system and first-class entertainment 

center. 

The ambitious charterer will naturally also 

want to book Absinthe during the period from 

September to February when she explores 

Panama, Costa Rica, and the Sea of Cortés 

between the Baja Peninsula and mainland 

Mexico. The Sea of Cortés is among the world’s 

most wondrous ecosystems, host to California 

Gray Whales, giant manta rays, leatherback sea 

turtles, and tuna and other fishes in schools over 

100 miles long. In Costa Rica, the Monteverde 

Cloud Forest Reserve, seen from a helicopter, is 

an unrivalled exhibition of nature’s bounty. 

The months of June to August find Absinthe 

traveling the Inside Passage of Alaska and the 

northern coast of British Colombia. While 

urbanites are huddled around their central 

air-conditioners at the height of the dog days of 

summer, the Absinthe’s guests can be enjoying 

a champagne and smoked salmon picnic on 

a sparkling, deep-blue, massive glacier. Using 

the AStar B2 helicopter, they can then explore 

spectacular wilderness areas, or enjoy a jaunt 

in a sea kayak, marvel at the sight of humpback 

whales, or stay aboard to be pampered with a 

world-class, spa quality, professional rubdown 

in a dedicated massage room. 

Absinthe’s interior boasts an uncommon 

visual warmth, a fulfillment of the vision of 

Karin Civitella, head of Civitella Design. Ms 

Civitella says that she favors voluptuous interiors 

reflecting joie de vivre while manifesting 

the feel of a gracious home. She is given to 

blending beautiful, classic antique furnishings 

with ultra high-tech details. For the outdoor 

areas of the yacht, she chose pieces and materials 

that harmonize with natural settings. Ms. 

Civitella further says that her team’s mandate in 

designing Absinthe was to bring the refinement 

of European style and service to remote areas of 

the West Coast of the Americas. If you notice a 

fully-developed and integrated aesthetic aboard 

Absinthe, it is entirely due to Karin Civitella’s 

intense involvement in this project; she even 

designed the crew’s uniforms. 

Smoked oak wood flooring throughout 

the yacht themes perfectly with the extraordinary 

natural settings that Absinthe visits, 

while also setting a tone of great luxury. 

Hand-carved solid mahogany, maple wood 

and oak furnishings, paneling, displays, and 

cabinets give an aristocratic impression. The 

al fresco dining table is complemented by 

a wet bar topped with prized Brazilian river 

stone granite. Many other materials whose 

prestige stems from their great beauty and 

rarity are found aboard this megayacht. The 

sophisticated evening ambience of the bar 

area is augmented by the yellow tourmaline 

marble top and illuminated onyx in the bar. 

All through the vessel there are royal blue 

draperies with gold embroidery piping, doubled 

with voile de jour (Fr. for ‘daylight veil’) 

window coverings. 

In the sky lounge are Persian style divans 

whose luxuriant fabric covering includes 

touches of silk, while in the media room there 

is a welcoming blue leather Chesterfield modular 

couch, custom-made in Tunisia. Soft velvets 

upholster the red Nautilus dining chairs in 

the dining room as well as the Carousel blue 

and yellow swivel chairs and asymmetric love 

seats in the bar. Bathroom countertops are of 

local native-carved pewter; doorknobs are of 

brushed nickel. Bathroom fixtures and accessories 

are from the esteemed ateliers of the 

French company Herbeau, and namely their 

Pompadour/Gargoyles collection. 

Dutch Harcolor Eden/Tulip light fixtures 

add an artistic whiff of the moderne: blue tulips 

for mood in the common areas and white tulips 

in staterooms for ambiance and reading. The 

staterooms are beautified by one-of-a-kind, 

handmade silk Persian rugs. 

All these regal appointments make an 

appropriate setting for Absinthe’s many works 

of original art. Heidi Taillefer, a prominent, contemporary 

artist from Montréal, is represented 

by “The Horse,” an oil painting in the bar area 

and by drawings elsewhere on board. Suzan 


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“ Absinthe’s 

crew will see 

that you are 

pampered 

before, during, 

and after your 

activities” 

Point, an acclaimed artist of British Colombia’s 

Coast Salish, contributed a serigraphy collection. 

Choice pieces of native art placed around 

Absinthe’s interior impart a stronger sense of 

place, of a West Coast wonderland. 

Many of the drawings and paintings aboard 

Absinthe depict animals and thus accord with 

her mission of exploring unspoiled regions rich 

in wildlife. A design developed expressly for 

Absinthe, modeled on M.C. Escher’s celebrated 

“Metamorphosis,” depicting interlocking images 

of swimming fish and fowl in flight symbolizes 

Absinthe’s double mobility concept and is 

used on fabrics on the padded headboards in 

the ship’s staterooms. 

A statue of Vincent Van Gogh also graces 

the quarters, placed here because Van Gogh 

was an absinthe enthusiast. A myth attached 

to the beverage in the early 20th century, yet 

was naught but a myth. Thujone, the chemical 

compound thought responsible for absinthe’s 

unusual inebriating qualities, is present in the 

drink at levels such that to ingest enough to 

cause enduring systemic harm, the drinker 

would first go into delirium tremens. Sage oil, 

for example, extracted from the cooking herb, 

is 50% thujone, yet was never outlawed. Still, 

the disinhibiting nature of absinthe was such 

that the poet Ernest Dowson quipped “Absinthe 

makes the tart grow fonder.” If you are, nonetheless, 

disinclined to sample absinthe straight, 

you might enjoy its essence in the unforgettable 

confection that is sabayon à l’absinthe de 

Pontarlier 

Happily, master chef Steve Ridley is on hand 

to prepare whatever delicacy you may desire 

to cordon bleu standards. For years, Steve was 

the Executive Chef at The Bear Foot Bistro in 

Whistler, British Colombia. Praise was heaped 

on him by many trustworthy gastronomes. 

Bon Appétit magazine said: ““The buzz is that 

Whistler offers the best eating of any ski resort 

on the continent. Those high standards are met 

beautifully at Bear Foot Bistro.” A critic for the 

London Times declared that at Bear Foot, he 

enjoyed the best meal of his life. 

Steve Ridley is expert in Pacific Northwest 

culinary culture. Committed to giving 

Absinthe’s guests peak experiences even when 

they are not in the mountains heliskiing, he 

painstakingly seeks the finest local ingredients 

for his creations. Representative might be his 

Artic caribou short loin, wrapped in Bayonne 

ham, served with blackberry jus and a vegetable 

terrine. He furthermore has a métier 

for pairing wines with food, and frequently 

prepares tasting dinners in which the wines not 

only harmonize perfectly with the dishes they 

accompany but also with each other. As a wine 

to accompany the caribou short loin, Steve recommends 

Penfolds Grange 1998, an Australian 

vintage so prized that epicures in France order 

cases on-line. 

In Absinthe’s climate-controlled wine cellar, 

Steve and his sommelier have a resource any 

oenologist might envy. Every chateau worth 

the detour is represented, including Petrus, 

Haut-Brion, and Chateau Margaux. An outstanding 

collection of fine champagnes is an 

embarrassment of riches: Krug 1973 and 1979, 

Louis Roederer Cristal 1977 and 1979, Bollinger 

1973 and 1975; one feels better just reading the 

list. Imagine being able to choose from 1896, 

1900, 1908, and all years between 1920 to 1972 

of the incomparable Armagnac from Chateau 

de Laubade. 

I asked Chef Steve how he would meet a 

request for Tournedos Rossini. He responded 

by saying that using Kobe beef and seared foie 

gras with grilled Portobello mushrooms, all 

atop a focaccia crouton and served with a red 

wine veal jus, he would prepare a world-class 

exemplar of Tournedos Rossini. 

It goes without saying that Steve’s creations 

receive the most elegant of presentations. 

Bernardaud, Limoges porcelain dinnerware 

and Puiforcat silverware are used for fine dining. 

For more casual al fresco meals, Rosenthal 

Dune china and Italian Mezzo silver flatware 

are employed. Wines are poured in Riedel crystal 

decanters and stemware. 

Manning Absinthe’s state-of-the-art, exquisitely 

designed and furnished pilothouse is 

Captain Roy Cooper. Hailing from South Africa, 

and thoroughly certified and experienced at 

the very highest levels of nautical handling and 

management, Captain Roy is at the center of 

the soul of the Absinthe experience. He cites 

the lure of the sea as a constant in his life. I 

asked him about his love of the ocean: “It’s 

romantic. It’s dangerous. It’s fulfilling in every 

sense of the word. It’s in my blood and is part 

of what makes me who I am. There is nothing 

comparable. That’s why I go to sea.” 

Speaking of how Absinthe handles, Captain 

Roy says: “At sea, she moves like a superstar on 

ice. In port, she moves gently under your feet. 


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M.Y. “ANATOLIA” 

48m (156ft) Proteksan,Turkey, 2001 US$ 10,950,000 – Joint Central Agent 

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38m (124ft) Heesen, Holland, 1992 US$ 8,000,000 – Joint Central Agent 

UK OFFICE: 28-29 RICHMOND PLACE 

BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX 

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TEL: +44 (0) 1273 571722 

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E-MAIL: INFO@YPICREW.COM 

INTERNATIONAL YACHT BROKERAGE • WORLD-WIDE CHARTER • YACHT MANAGEMENT & ADMINISTRATION • ISM • ISPS • CREW AGENCY • REFIT & NEW CONSTRUCTION SUPERVISION


Year: ....................... 1973 / Refit 2002 – 2005 

(A Major 24-month Refit Started In July and 

August 2002 In Florida 

(Engines and Generators) snd Continued For 

22 Months At Allied Shipyard 

In Vancouver, Canada, From September 2003 

To June 2005). 

Type: ..........Luxurious Expedition Megayacht 

Built To Lloyds +100 A1 Standards. 

Status & Classification: ......... Irs Commercial 

Class, SOLAS Safety Regulations 

Compliant (12 Passengers). 

Port Of Registry: .......................Panama City, 

Republic Of Panama. 

Loa: ..............................................201’(61.3m) 

Beam: ............................................. 31’(9.5m) 

Draft: .......................................... 12’6” (3.8m) 

Gross Tonnage: ........................... 752 Tonnes 

Displacement Tonnage: .............. 825 Tonnes 

(Fully Loaded). 

Designer: ................... Sparkman & Stephens 

Builder: ......... Astilleros Y Talleres Celaya S.a. 

Interior Designer: ..........Civitella Design S.a. 

Cruising Speed: ..................... 12 To14 Knots. 

Maximum Speed: .......................... 17 Knots. 

Number Of Guests: ...................................12 

Number Of Staterooms: ................... 9 To 12 

Depending On The Configuration Chosen. 

Staterooms For Guests: .....The Owner’s Suite 

with King Size Bed and Living Area, 

Two Master King Size Staterooms, 

M/Y Absinthe General Specifications 

One King Size Stateroom / Or Two Twins, 

Two Master Queen Size Staterooms, 

Two Queen Size Junior Suites / 

or Two Queen Cabins Plus Two Twin Cabins, 

One Nanny Single Cabin. 

Crew Accomodations: ............ Up To 19 Crew 

Members In 11 Cabins, Plus Nanny. 

Engines: ........ Two 1125 Hp Caterpillar Diesel 

Generators: ...................Two Caterpillar D343 

+ One Emergency Generator. 

Construction: .....................Welded Steel Bull, 

Steel Aluminum Superstructure, 

Teak Laid Decks 

Diesel Fuel Tank Capacity: ..36,486 US Gallons 

(138,100 Liters) 

Water Tank Capacity: ...........11,004 Us Gallons 

(41,650 Liters) 

Water Makers: Two, With Fresh Water Making 

Capacity Of 10,000 Gallons Per Day 

(38,000 Liters Per Day) 

Range: ........................... 5,700 Nautical Miles 

Fuel Consumption: ........65 Us Gallons / Hour 

(245 Liters / Hour) At 11 Knots. 

Stabilizers: ...................Two Vosper Stabilizers 

Air Conditioning and Heating System: ............. 

Throughout The Ship With 

Two 25-ton Compressors. 

Heli Jet Fuel Tank Capacity: 2,857 US Gallons 

(10,814 Liters) 

She likes a firm hand, and I give it to her.” He 

points out that the wood-paneled pilothouse 

is furnished with comfy seats and unique 

antique pieces to allow guests to observe 

operations, perhaps while sipping a freshbrewed, 

exotic coffee while watching the sun 

appear over the horizon. “A guest can be 

made to feel super-extra special, sipping a 

flute of finest champagne while seated in the 

ornate Speaker’s Chair, late of the Quebec 

Assembly,” he says: “Do not trouble yourself 

with the comings and goings of the crew. 

Just sit. Be yourself and enjoy this perfect 

moment in time.” 

Of course, the quality of service experienced 

by guests is dependent on the 

Captain’s professional management of his 

crew. Here’s what Captain Roy says of his 

style: “My job is not just about giving orders. 

It’s also about being compassionate, about 

understanding, about giving support when 

support is needed. I encourage spiritual 

health in my crew. I listen more than I 

talk. I exercise unimpeachable honesty and 

integrity in all my dealings with everyone. 

Therefore, my crew members follow when 

I lead. Content in their lot, they make our 

guests feel sincerely and cordially welcomed 

for the duration of their stay.” 

Whether you wish to schuss down mountain 

tops in a British Colombian heliskiing 

adventure or race a Sea-Doo wave runner 

atop the Sea of Cortés, Absinthe’s employees 

will see that you are pampered before, during, 

and after your sporting activities. After 

your charter vacation, you’ll surely agree 

that there is nothing at all wrong with being 

Absinthe-minded. 

Comprehensive information relating to 

Absinthe may be found on Sea to Sky’s website, 

www.motoryachtabsinthe.com. The company 

maintains a toll-free phone, 1-866-935-3228. 

Fraser Yachts Worldwide handle bookings; 

Patrcia Saks is in the Ft. Lauderdale office, (954) 

712-7118, while Solenn de Braux is in Fraser’s 

New York office, (212) 336-7841. Y V C 


Scott Rose attended Harvard University at Master’s 

level. He writes frequently on luxury markets and 

travel. His work has appeared in such prestigious 

venues as Bon Appetit and Power magazines. 

scottcaliente@earthlink.net 

Information 





www.ocean-independence.com 

30 years of experience in 

luxury yacht vacations 

Best yachts. Best places. Best crews. 

Brokerage | Charter | New Construction | Consulting Services | Management 

Fort Lauderdale | Antibes | Barcelona | Düsseldorf | Geneva | Monaco | Palma de Mallorca | Uster | United Kingdom | Zürich 

Call Ray Weldon in Fort Lauderdale 

at +1 954 524 93 66 or +1 800 929 9366 

or send an email to charter@ocyachts.com 

Former companies:

COVER STORY 

Destination: 

Paradise 

Northern Light will change 

course in fall 2006, heading 

east to new horizons 

Following five successful years chartering in the Caribbean and the Mediterranean, 

WRITTEN BY 

JAMIE MATUSOW 

the sumptuous 151ft Royal Van Lent Feadship, Northern Light, will embark on her most 

exotic journey yet: the sun-drenched islands of the Indian Ocean. 


It’s difficult to envision a more alluring 

destination, a tropical haven of unspoiled 

nature, rich with coral reefs and teeming 

with bird and aquatic life. An immense 

island chain where sparkling blue lagoons 

combine with sugary white sands, and trips 

ashore to ancient temples and tea, cinnamon and 

avocado plantations reveal a colorful culture, 

steeped in history. Even better, the intriguing 

Indian Ocean, the third largest of the world’s 

oceans, bounded by Asia, Africa and Australia, is 

also one of the few areas of the world that remains 

relatively free of large-scale commercialism and 

mass tourism. Lest you think its islands boast no 

modern amenities though, be sure that its beauty 

and tranquility have not remained secret. In the 

past decade, word of the natural splendor and the 

geographically diverse terrain has spread, and as 

a result, some of the most elaborate resorts and 

restaurants on the planet have emerged in the 

expansive archipelago. 

Obviously, the preferred, if not the only, way to 

explore this idyllic watery paradise, is by boat— 

which explains why the area has become increasingly 

popular as a yachting destination for charter 

parties—especially for Europeans who have 

easy flight access to the Seychelles, Maldives and 

Thailand. Northern Light’s Captain Scott Johnson, 

who helped design the megayacht, and who has 

been with her since her launch in 2001, says the 

yacht’s expanded cruising area is based on several 

factors. He says he expects a longer charter season 

in the Indian Ocean than in the Caribbean, and 

also less yachts. (The Caribbean, he says, has 

become crowded with yachts, so a three-week 

season is about all you can expect.) In addition, 

the family that owns Northern Light has never 

been to the Indian Ocean so “it seemed like a 

perfect opportunity to broaden the yachting experience 

for everybody.” The family plans to cruise 

through the Seychelle islands from late October 

to November. The yacht is then tentatively set to 

head toward Thailand prior to Christmas. The 

itinerary is still taking shape. 

Currently, Captain Scott, a native of Australia 

and an experienced captain who has cruised all 

over the world, has immersed himself in studying 

the Indian Ocean. “I’m not yet familiar with the 

region,” he says,” so the fun and challenging part 

for me will be to gather all the information I can to 

ensure we have a great and trouble-free time out 

there!” 

He says the climate at the intended time of 

charter is well-suited to cruising because it will 

be at the turn of the monsoon season, “when we 

should be afforded calm seas and light winds, with 

only a chance of showers.” One of the challenges 

he will face, he says, is provisioning. This is always 

a difficulty in a remote area, he says, so it’s important 

to check out what is available. “For example,” 

he laughs, “fish is not always guaranteed—even 

in paradise! So the chef, chief stewardess and I 

have to scout and plan accordingly, even learn 

the schedule of freight flights from Europe and 

the States.” Provisioning to the quality required by 

charter guests, he says, means combining locally 

obtainable products with the best from the rest of 

the world. Of course budgets have to also be considered, 

he adds, as freight and customs charges 

can be almost as expensive as the products themselves. 

Long-range planning, says Scott, is key to a 

successful charter anywhere, and super-important 

when traveling to a new destination, as a 

busy charter season means a constant cycle of 

planning, provisioning, and cruising. “Logistics,” 

he says, “is a never-ending chore on a busy charter 

yacht.” 

This is why crew plays such a critical role. 

Scott says he chooses each member carefully, and 

that they have been together for a long time and 

know how to “pull it all together.” He prefers to 

hire crew of different nationalities and interests to 

provide as wide a scope and interest as possible. 

He encourages them to interact with the guests, 

when appropriate, as a way to relax them. On the 

other hand, the crew also knows how to remain 

nearly invisible while providing the utmost in service. 

For example, a tiny CCTV camera overlooks 

the yacht’s vast oval dining table, and transmits 

Heart of the Yacht 

A space designed for family entertaining. 

Parquet floors and large windows play up the 

mahogany interior. 



COVER STORY 

Open/in the Sun Yacht 

Space on the bridge deck and sundeck are for 

guest relaxation. Here you’ll find toys, tenders 

and everyone having a great time getting wet! 

Northern Light Specifications 

Overall length: ............46 metres/150 ft 

Built: ...............................................2001 

Cruising speed: ........................12 knots 

Accommodation: ...................10 guests 

Crew: ..................................................10 

Special Features: ................................... 

Brand new 30’ Intrepid that is towed 

behind the yacht and is used for special 

excursions, fishing trips and diving expeditions. 

And we mustn’t forget the beer 

taps on the sun deck and in the upper 

salon, that provide draught Heineken, 

correctly chilled, to thirsty charterers! 

Tenders & Toys: ...................................... 

1 x 30’ Intrepid tender, 1 x 20’ 

Novurania Equator tender w/190 hp 

inboard/outboard, 1 x 6-metre Special 

Craft with 320hp inboard, 2 x Yamaha 

two-man waverunner, snorkelling equipment, 

kneeboard, banana, 2 x floating 

mattress, a range of waterskis (including 

monoskis). 

to a small screen in the pantry, so staff can “magically” 

appear at the table when needed, instead of 

hovering behind the guests while they’re eating. 

Northern Light’s crew is usually 10-strong, 

says the Captain, although they will occasionally 

add an additional member for a long charter or 

a particularly demanding season. As Northern 

Light charters for a maximum of 10 people, this 

ensures a one-to-one ratio—and a comfortable 

and relaxed cruise experience, not to mention a 

great time! 

The Ultimate in Entertainment 

Guests boarding Northern Light feel comfortable 

immediately. As the Captain says, she is 

decorated in a traditional manner, elegantly, to the 

absolute highest standards without compromise, 

yet she is not overdone. He says there’s no feeling 

of “Oh I can’t sit there, it’s too nice.” 

Captain Scott says that Northern Light was 

“designed from the outset to be an open/in the 

sun yacht.” In fact, they placed the tenders and 

toys on the main deck aft, a spot usually reserved 

for guest dining, in order to free up the bridge deck 

and sundeck for guest relaxation. “Here,” he says, 

“you’ll find toys, tenders and everyone having a 

great time getting wet!” 

They carry a 19ft Nautica Rib (great for skiing, 

wakeboarding, towing all the toys, including a 

banana, donuts, U-tubes, knee boards, skis, wakeboard), 

two kayaks, two sailboards, two Yamaha 

GP800 wave runners and a Laser sailing dinghy. 

“We also tow a 30ft Intrepid tender, equipped 

with two 250hp Yamaha engines, side door and 

shower\toilet facilities, which is great for extended 

exploration or snorkel trips,” says Scott. 

The sundeck is huge and roughly divided into 

three areas: forward is the Jacuzzi and sun pad 

area; midships is the shaded bar—with Heineken 

on tap; and the aft section is open with sun 

loungers and fitness equipment, all shaded by a 

suspended canopy. On the right are two built-in 

seating areas with enormous umbrellas. “On charter,” 

says the Captain, “it’s not unusual to find the 

entire party up here—all doing their own thing in 

their own space, but still together.” 

Down the stainless and teak stairs to the bridge 

deck aft is the main outdoor dining area, with a 

dining table that can accommodate 12 with ease. 

The table is flanked by four service stations with 

varnished tops. These are used for the breakfast 

buffet as well as for lunch and dinner service. One 

of these units contains a wet bar, handy for service 

and also great for the guests who can help themselves 

as required. With built-in seating similar to 

that found on the sundeck above, the Captain says 

it’s another great spot to relax. 

Stepping inside from the aft deck you enter the 

“heart of the yacht,” the bridge deck lounge, a space 

designed for family entertaining. Parquet floors 

and large windows play up the mahogany interior. 

Comfy blue and white sofas and a large granitetopped 

stand-up bar –again, with Heineken on tap 

– make this a great space to gather. And you needn’t 

worry about running out of beer—three kegs of the 

owner’s favorite brew are stowed in a special temperature-controlled 

locker. 

There is also a full audio-video package here 

with hidden plasma TV and surround sound for 

TV-DVD addicts, and you can also plug and play 

the camcorder to review the day’s events. This 

entertainment space also includes a hidden pantry 

that allows the crew to offer full bar service or 

discreet service, depending on the occasion or on 

guests’ requirements. 

Descending the interior mahogany paneled 

staircase leads to the main deck. Forward is the 

master suite complete with a fully equipped office, 

for connection to the outside world. Aft is the dining 

room and beyond a full-height display cabinet 


of antique china is the main deck lounge. Both the 

dining area and main deck lounge are decorated in 

a slightly more formal manner. Both are very gracious, 

with handmade Tai Ping carpets that have a 

diamond pattern of cut silk on a wool background. 

Pineapples, the symbol of welcome, are sculpted 

into the corners of a central panel, where the yacht’s 

compass rose logo is embroidered. The lounge could 

be compared to an English club, and has an intimate 

feel. Large silk-covered sofas and easy chairs surround 

a Gucci leather table; artwork and encased 

ship models make this a great spot to retire to after 

the evening meal. Watch the news, catch up on a 

movie on the 60-inch plasma screen (hidden behind 

a painting when not in use), or let the kids crash out 

to a favorite DVD or get their fill of XBox. 

Perhaps best of all, the yacht is equipped 

with Zero-Speed stabilizers to ensure comfort at 

anchor and underway. Feadship’s quality of construction 

enables the yacht to run almost silently. 

In fact, says the Captain, “guests have come up for 

breakfast and have not realized we have shifted 

anchorage – or islands – overnight!” 

The Ultimate in Accommodations 

The owner’s suite comprises a luxurious mahogany-paneled 

stateroom with king-size bed; a study 

complete with leather-topped desk, bookcase and 

PC; and a smaller cabin designed for a young child, 

including a built-in crib upholstered in baby-blue 

satin. A nanny can be accommodated on the cabin’s 

folding Pullman berth. The owner’s bathroom 

is elegant, with off-white, lightly patterned heated 

marble floors. From the whirlpool bath, two large 

windows offer a view of the seascape. 

Below, guests are accommodated in four very 

comfortable and spacious cabins – two doubles 

and two twins – opening off a parquet-floored lobby 

on the lower deck. Paneled in the same richly hued 

Honduras mahogany as the owner’s suite, the double 

cabins have marble bathrooms with double basins 

and full-sized tubs. Each cabin features a comprehensive 

electronics system including a dedicated 

satellite television receiver for an almost unlimited 

choice of live or recorded sound and vision. 

A New Chapter 

One thing is for sure, wherever Northern Light 

cruises, guests will enjoy a sumptuous home away 

from home. The Captain and crew do their best 

to ensure that, and the number of repeat charter 

guests serves as testament. From specific requests, 

such as stopping at the best restaurants along the 

way from Sardinia to Naples, to a lavish all-day 

affair to celebrate a guest’s 50th birthday during 

which the crew cleverly and secretly changed 

themes throughout, every day aboard the yacht is 

made to be a special occasion. 

In the past, the Mediterranean, particularly 

Italy, Capri and Ischia, have been among Captain 

Scott’s favorite destinations due to the friendly 

Ko Phi Phi Don Island Thailand 

people, fantastic food and wine, and awesome 

views. In Turkey, he loves the peace and quiet, 

the great people and the mixture of culture and 

religion. “Croatia,” he says, “along the Dalmatian 

coast is a wonderful place to cruise; you can 

have culture, history and nightlife one day and 

complete isolation and calm the next, all at your 

own anchorage.” He enjoys life in the Caribbean, 

laid back and relaxed, as well as the high life in 

St Barths. “It can be a little too relaxed for some 

tastes, but with the weather and the water it’s hard 

to beat,” he says. 

He says his favorite itinerary has been a 

Dalmatian cruise, starting in Venice and ending in 

Dubrovnik. There, he says, the choices are endless, 

from historical sites to complete isolation of island 

anchorages. He enjoys cruising up to Skradin to 

visit the waterfalls; being alongside the cultural 

city of Trogir that really gets going after dark; the 

peace and quiet of Miljet; and finally ending up in 

Dubrovnik to spend a full day exploring the city. 

We look forward to the additions to his “favorites 

list” once he rounds the Horn of Africa and 

heads on to the Seychelles and beyond. Y V C 


Jamie Matusow is a freelance writer based in New York. 

jbmatusow@optonline.net 

Information 

Northern Light charters for Caribbean winter 

2005/6, Christmas & New Year at US 

$160,000/week; other months: US $150,000/week. 

Mediterranean summer 2006: €165,000/week; 

Indian Ocean winter 2006/7: €160,000/week. 

Contact: Peter Insull’s Charter Department at 

Tel : +33 (0) 493 34 22 42; Fax : +33 (0) 492 90 43 7 

charter@insull.com or www.insull.com 

From the Pantry.... 

A Refreshing Cocktail 

Wherever the hot sun blazes, Northern 

Light’s crew refreshes guests with 

their signature Arctic Watermelon Ice 

Cocktail. Prepare as follows: 

• First prep the juice. 

One 3lb wedge of watermelon 

1/2 cup corn sryup 

• Cut the rind off the watermelon and 

remove as many seeds as possible 

(seedless melons are a big help here). 

Add the corn syrup and the watermelon 

to the blender and liquefy. 

Strain mix into a container, removing 

any seeds-foam; cover and refrigerate 

until required. (It will keep for at 

least 5 days.) 

• Arctic Watermelon Ice 

1 cup blended ice 

1 cup watermelon juice 

1 tablespoon sweetened lime juice 

1 tablespoon grenadine syrup 

1 shot iced vodka 

• Blend ice and add the above, in order. 

Blend until slushy and smooth. Pour 

into 12-oz. glass and garnish with 

watermelon. 

Note: Leftover watermelon juice can be 

used for ice pops for the kids. 



CAPTAIN’S CORNER 

Positive 

Attitude 

This young can-do captain aims 

to deliver the time of your life 

WRITTEN BY JAMIE MATUSOW 

The story of M/Y Positive Carry ’s 

Captain Whitney Reiter reads a little 

like a novel. But while serendipity has 

certainly played a role in his becoming 

one of the youngest captains of a 142ft 

Trinity, it’s his skill, hard work, upbeat 

nature, and love of the water that provide 

drama and adventure for charter 

guests. 

It’s the stuff dreams are made of: local Miami 

boy grows up with an affinity for fishing and 

cruising the surrounding waters. He attends 

an area high school and the University of 

Miami, commercially fishing and lobstering 

with his dad during school breaks. After 

crewing on snorkeling boats in The Keys, he gets 

his captain’s license in order to take guests fishing. 

He runs several boats—then runs into an old friend 

from high school. The friend’s husband just happens 

to be a self-made multimillionaire — with a 

passion for boats. And, by coincidence, the couple 

lives directly across the canal from where an 85ft 

Azimut—run by Captain Reiter —is docked. 

The high school friend introduces Reiter, now 

in his early twenties, to her husband. An instant 

connection is made. The husband, also a native 

Floridian, knows many of the same people as 

Reiter, and shares many of his interests, including 

an ardent love for fishing and spearfishing. 

The millionaire soon offers Reiter the position of 

captain on his new 100ft Broward. Three years 

later, “the boss” purchases a 142ft Trinity, and 

Reiter makes the leap—at 30 years old—to run the 

brand-new tri-deck motoryacht. 

A Whole New Level 

Reiter’s boss took possession of Positive 

Carry—the name comes from a financial term 

meaning the positive difference between the 

investment and the interest rate—on April 1, 2004, 

April Fool’s Day. But the fact that Reiter, who had 

never even seen the vessel was expected to step 

aboard and take the owner and his charter party 

to the Bahamas—was no joke! He had never been 

at the helm of anything over 100ft. Now, overnight, 

he was in command of a spectacular yacht that 

slept 10 and required a crew of nine. 


Reiter and his boss arrived in New Orleans 

on a Thursday to pick up the vessel. They were 

supposed to leave on Friday for Key Biscayne. 

However, a last-minute holdup meant they 

couldn’t depart until Monday. 

“Whoopee!” recalls Reiter. “I had a whopping 

three days to get to know a boat of such magnitude!” 

But his boss, a risk-taking entrepreneur in the 

bond business, obviously had faith in Reiter, and 

knew he had what it takes. 

So the Captain spent the weekend getting 

acquainted with his new vessel. On Monday, 

Positive Carry left New Orleans. “On Tuesday,” says 

Reiter, “I was somewhere in the Gulf of Mexico, 

on the phone, hiring crew and placing food and 

equipment orders.” 

When they arrived in Key Biscayne, at 6 a.m. 

Wednesday morning, Reiter met his new crew, 

loaded the boat with provisions, moved the 

boss’s 100ft Broward alongside to transfer equipment, 

and got everything organized. By 4 p.m. 

Wednesday, Positive Carry was en route to Cat Cay, 

a private island south of Bimini, with the boss and 

all of his guests. 

“Needless to say,” admits Reiter proudly, “that 

was one of my greatest challenges. After accomplishing 

that, I knew I could do anything.” 

Good Preparation 

That’s why, back in Cat Cay again, one of their 

most frequented venues, Reiter was prepared for 

another of his boss’s challenging requests. The 

owner had flown to the Atlantis hotel in his private 

helicopter, but did not make it back to the chopper 

in time to take off before sunset. Not wanting to 

wait until the morning to fly out, he called Reiter 

and asked him to pick him up in the vessel’s tender. 

Crossing the Gulf Stream in a tender was not 

something Reiter had ever imagined himself doing, 

but he left Cat Cay in the Yellowfin at around 9 p.m. 

When he arrived at the Atlantis, he helped his boss 

load about 10 large shopping bags of crystal and 

goods from Cartier and Ferragamo onto the tender. 

“Not the best idea, I thought, to load crystal onto a 

60mph boat,” says Reiter, but away they went. 

They made it back to Cat Cay around 2:30 a.m. 

— a 220-mile round-trip—with all the crystal intact. 

The next day, the owner gathered the crew together 

and presented all the gals with Ferragamo bags and 

matching shoes, and the guys, with Cartier belts 

and wallets. 

“He is a great boss,” says Reiter, “and never 

takes us for granted.” Nor does his generosity end 

with his crew. The reason the boss was late getting 

to his chopper: he was delayed in the line at KFC, 

buying 40 buckets of chicken for the dockmaster 

at Cat Cay. 

Reiter says that crossing the Gulf Stream in a 

tender no longer seems like an unusual request. 

He has done it many times. 

Favorite Destinations 

Reiter feels totally comfortable anywhere 

in Florida and the Bahamas—especially in the 

Exumas, which is where Positive Carry spends 

much of her time. He says that the Exumas are a 

great destination any time of the year, because 

there is protection from the weather wherever you 

go. 

“For most of our guests,” he says, “going from 

Georgetown to Nassau, with stops along the 

way, seems to make the most people happy. The 

Exumas is what I feel are the true Bahamas—and 

what I love about the islands.” He says that the 

beautiful beaches, private coves, and amazing 

underwater life are what makes the area so special 

– not to mention the extraordinary fishing and 

spearfishing. 

Where the Action Is 

It is in water activities such as these that 

Positive Carry’s crew really stands out. They are an 

extremely active boat and love catering to active 

guests. They regularly take guests spearfishing so 

they can shoot their own meal. “This,” the Captain 

says, “usually results in shark encounters—which 

can scare the guests—but usually they end up 

intrigued! We always have two crew members in 

the water to help with the spearfishing, so the 

sharks have never been a problem—just a beautiful 

sight to see.” 

The crew loves to fish for everything from 

bonefish to marlin, swordfish to snapper, or “just” 

wahoo and dolphin. They flyfish, deep drop, kite 

fish, bottom fish, or just troll. Five crew members—including 

the Captain and his wife, the chief 

stewardess—can free-dive; several can descend to 

over 120 feet. Slaloming stews and mates love to 

entertain guests by doing flips on wakeboards. 

Just about every imaginable water sport is offered, 

from tubing to scuba diving. 

Captain & Wife 

Captain Whitney with his wife and Chief 

Stewardess, Fiona. 

Big Catch! 

Captain Whitney Reiter and Conner Dowd show 

off a 40lb dolphin they caught near Highbourne 

Cay in the Exumas. 



CAPTAIN’S CORNER 

“ It’s our 

abilities on 

the water 

that set us 

apart from 

other yachts 

out there” 

—Captain Whitney Reiter 

Versatility in crew members is a must, says 

Reiter, “and the youth aboard Positive Carry is 

what I love about it. Everyone’s young—from 

the owner at 35, his wife at 32, and me, now 31. 

If you’re not young, you have to act that way to 

fit in.” 

The captain says that many of the crew he 

has hired did not have a lot of experience. He 

prefers youth over experience because it leads 

to a “can-do” attitude. He says he learns a lot 

from them, too, and “that there is not one crew 

member whom he doesn’t consider to be a 

friend. Friendliness and youth, he says, result 

in the informality onboard the yacht—and 

reflect his conviction to make every guest feel 

at home. 

Laid-back Attitude 

While Positive Carry boasts a luxurious Dee 

Robinson-designed interior, complete with rich 

Makore African cherry, silk upholstery, marble 

baths, and state-of -the-art entertainment systems, 

both the vessel and its crew exude a casual 

air. Since the owner has three small children, 

the crew are extremely child-friendly. The main 

saloon even has a baby gate to keep children 

and their toys safe in this most distinctive play 

area. “It throws formal out the window,” says 

Reiter, “and sets a fun tone for mixing with the 

guests.” 

And fun is what this crew’s all about, says 

the Captain. If you’re looking for a nice, relaxing, 

low-key charter, you can hang out in the 

Jacuzzi or linger at the dining table for 10 on 

the main aft deck—complete with a unique 

air-conditioning system to cool you off when 

the breezes wane. The crew is always happy to 

oblige and honor your smallest request. 

But it’s guests with an active lifestyle who 

will benefit the most from a week onboard, says 

Reiter. “We love showing people a great time,” 

he says, and we take pride in making everyone 

feel at home. It’s the crew aboard Positive Carry 

that makes the trip so special—and our abilities 

on the water that set us apart from other yachts 

out there. Fishing and spearfishing are sports 

we excel at, not just dabble in. We have over 

20 fishing rods, 6 spearguns, and 10 Hawaiian 

slings—we do not come back empty-handed.” 

he promises. 

A New Responsibility 

In 2003, Reiter added the title of Director of 

Marine Operations to that of free diver, spearfisherman, 

golfer, tennis player, and Captain. 

For in that year, his boss purchased nine additional 

boats—one more for himself and eight 

as Christmas presents for relatives and friends. 

In 2005, his boss went on a buying spree again, 

and bought eight Boston Whalers as presents. 

He knew his young captain would be up to the 

challenge of managing all of them. Y V C 




Information 

Positive Carry accommodates 10 guests in 

five cabins. Charters are available in Florida 

and the Bahamas at the rate of $130,000 

per week, plus expenses. Contact: 

The Sacks Group Yachting Professionals, 

(954) 764-8219; www.sacksyachts.com 


Rent A Greek 

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THEN YOU CAN SELECT YOUR OWN 

ENVIRONMENT, YOUR OWN SCENERY, YOUR OWN ISLAND! 

Charter a motor yacht, motor sailer or sailing yacht 

(for 6 to 84 guests, from 60’ to 325’ and $1000 to $65,000 per day for entire yacht with its full 

crew) from VALEF YACHTS, agents for the largest fleet of crewed yachts for charter in Greece. 

IT COSTS NO MORE THAN BEING ON A CRUISE SHIP 

But 

• You can plan your own itinerary with your own captain 

• Your food with your own chef 

• Your drinks with your own steward, or leave it up to 

them to…pamper you. 

VALEF YACHTS LTD. 

International Headquarters: 7254 Fir Rd., P.O.B. 385, Ambler, PA 19002 U.S.A. 

Tel: (215) 641-1621 • (800) 223-3845 • Fax: (215) 641-1746 

E-mail: INFO@VALEFYACHTS.com • Website: VALEFYACHTS.com

RESORTS 

Mohonk Mountain House 

Out-of-the-way 

Yankee 

splendor 

WRITTEN BY JOSH MAX 

Mohonk is many things at once; an historic castle perched on the summit of a glorious 

mountain, with luxurious, TV-less rooms, tall ceilings, acres of wood, and lounges with 

stately libraries. But it’s also a retreat where silence gently shakes the horns, crowds and 

work concerns out of your ears. Your days are packed full of activities if that’s your preference; 

skating, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are all on the complimentary docket 

for winter; for spring, boating on the crystal-clear lake, hiking along miles-long trails, tennis 

and other recreation is available free with your room price. Or you can do nothing at all. 

Lots of Room at the Inn 

The 261-room house itself is an architectural 

wonder; a turreted seven-story building 

stretching nearly 1/8 of a mile, it’s surrounded 

by more than 28,000 acres of state park land and 

private preserves. The spacious rooms and halls 

are hallowed and cavernous, yet Mohonk exudes 

warmth. It really feels like someone’s house, albeit 

someone whose last name is Gates. The price also 

includes three fine meals a day. 

Meals Fit for Royalty 

Speaking of meals, please plan on exercising 

the restraint of a monk unless you plan to leave 

a few pounds larger than when you arrived. The 

meals are American, meaning wholesome foods 

prepared with seasonal, local ingredients, and 

the spectacular natural setting is the final touch. 

There are equally delicious “Sound Choice” items, 

appealing to the tastes of health-conscious guests, 

as well as vegetarian options, and Kosher meals 

are also offered upon request. Dine in the spectacular 

Main Dining Room, the intimate East and 

West Dining Rooms, or in the comfort of your 

own room. Come dressed: during dinner, jackets 

are required for gentlemen age twelve and over, 

and for ladies, dresses, skirts or evening slacks. 

Also, Mohonk’s award-winning wine list (Wine 

Spectator, 2004) offers a wide range of selections 

to accompany your repast. The West Lounge is 

open from 5-11 p.m. daily, serving cocktails and 

light fare. 

Tea, Sweets, Activity 

For the overstimulated, easily bored 21stcentury 

sort, there are a wealth of year-round 

themed programs available, from Ballroom or 

Swing Dancing, a Taste of Italy, Holistic living 


as well as the Art of Chocolate, Just for Couples, 

Jazz on the Mountain or a Scottish Weekend, 

among others, many where children are invited 

to stay free. And speaking of the kids, there’s lots 

to keep them occupied, too, from storytelling to 

magic to mime while you and yours explore the 

grounds or simply unwind. Take afternoon tea 

and cookies, also included in the room price, as 

is nightly entertainment like movies, music or 

dancing. You can get a more reasonable rate, as 

well as little less maddening crowd, by staying 

from Sunday into Monday as we did, and prices 

also drop during the week if you feel like playing 

hooky from your life. 

Relaxing Body, Mind, 

Spirit at the Spa 

The Old-World charm of Mohonk has been 

given a modern-day spin at the recently opened 

Spa. There, you can find your own perfect balance 

of activity, rest, and play. They offer up 

yoga, Pilates, Qigong, aerobics and water classes, 

as well as a full menu of services and signature 

treatments. While in the Spa you can relax in 

the solarium or near the stone fireplace, take 

a dip in the indoor heated swimming pool, or 

if you’re visiting in the warmer months, in the 

outdoor heated mineral pool. The Spa also houses 

a state-of-the-art Fitness Center, steam and 

sauna rooms, The Elixir Bar, and offers a variety 

of teas, sports drinks and snacks. Complete the 

untangling of physical, mental and spiritual knots 

with an Energy Balancing Massage, Stress-Buster 

Back Therapy, Cedars Exfoliating Body Glow or an 

Herbal Rejuvenation Ritual before your return to 

the real world. 

The Gift Shop: 

Something for Everyone 

The Mohonk Gift Shop on the ground floor 

is over 100 years old and combines turn-of-thecentury 

charm with modern-day flair. Visit the 

Victorian-style Soda Fountain and enjoy an oldfashioned 

egg cream. Opposite the Soda Fountain 

is a gourmet food section feauturing treats such 

as homemade local chocolates, fine aged Antico 

Mercante balsamic vinegars and infused oils. 

Once sustained, wander the rest of the store, 

which offers a distinctive selection of keepsake 

treasures for you or your family, friends, and coworkers. 

Thumb through books from regional and international 

best-selling authors, pick up comfy logo 

sweatshirts for taking it easy as well as fine linens 

by Margaret O’Leary. Choose a soothing Baudelaire 

soap from bath/spa section or a Luminary luxury 

boxed candle from the candle boutique. 

The Fine Art of Observing Nature 

The beauty of Mohonk’s grounds can’t be overstated, 

and a visit must include a stroll through 

the gardens, a cornerstone of Mohonk since the 

land was purchased in 1869. Landscaped impeccably, 

their focus is grounded in mid-19th century 

picturesque influence. 

The original design has been maintained 

through the years as the gardens have matured 

and evolved. Guests can enjoy large masses of 

flowering annuals, perennials, and tropical plants, 

set against magnificent vistas and views. Walk 

through The Mohonk Greenhouse and inhale 

the bouquet of orchids, begonias, and fuchsias. 

You’ll also find splendid gardens throughout the 

grounds, including ornamental grasses, herb collections, 

peonies, rock gardens, container gardens, 

and a butterfly garden. 

A scenic, easy trip by car, train or bus from most 

any location in the Northeast, Mohonk Mountain 

House is located in the heart of the Hudson 

Valley’s Catskill region. Amtrak trains arrive and 

depart from Poughkeepsie, and Adirondack 

Trailways provides bus services to New Paltz. If air 

travel is your method of transportation, Stewart 

International Airport in Newburgh is 25 miles 

from the Mountain House, Albany Airport 70 

miles out, and the New York City area airports 

are less than 100 miles away. Mohonk will even 

provide transfer service from area airports, bus or 

train stations, prices available upon request. Y V C 


Josh Max is a Manhattan based freelance writer and 

musician. www.TheMaxes.com 

JMaxOutfit@yahoo.com 

The Gardens 

A cornerstone of Mohonk since the land was purchased 

in 1869 

Information 

Mohonk Mountain House, Lake Mohonk, 

New Paltz, NY www.mohonk.com 

reservations: 800-772-6646 



YACHTING TRENDS 

A different way 

to buy a yacht 


Sharing a yacht is an appealing investment 

for businessmen and experienced yachters 

alike. 


Information 

For more information on LL at Sea’s 

fractional ownership programs, 

contact: David Perrich at 727-656-9952 




With more and more emphasis on “living 

the good life,” innovative concepts 

have emerged that allow those wanting 

to “have it all” to partake in a smorgasbord of 

luxury lifestyle options. Based on the premise of 

“why go it alone, when you can lower the cost of 

ownership and give more people the option to take 

part” timeshare and fractional ownership plans 

have multiplied rapidly. They now run the gamut 

from luxury condos and upscale vacation homes, 

to private jets, enviable cars, and even spectacular 

jewelry and designer couture. Not only do these 

shared arrangements enable owners to indulge in 

a variety of business and vacation options, they 

release them from the burdens of ownership and 

provide opportunities for investment. 

Yacht ownership is one of the latest entries in 

the fractional ownership ring, and it has unique 

advantages. Unlike owning a share of a beachfront 

community on Cape Cod or a mountaintop 

ski house in Aspen, in which there are a limited 

number of preferred weeks, the mobility of a yacht 

allows all shareholders to enjoy optimal weeks 

aboard. From Maine and Martha’s Vineyard in the 

summer, to the Bahamas and the Caribbean in the 

winter, owners never have to settle for an off-season 

week. They can usually choose a few weeks a 

year, in three different locations. 

Dave Perrich, VP of sales and marketing, for 

Luxury Lifestyles at Sea (LL at Sea), says the 

yachts his company offers cover the cruising area 

from the Chesapeake Bay in Maryland to the 

Caribbean. This year, he says, he’s had increased 

interest in the Montauk, NY, area, particularly 

from celebrities, and will most likely expand the 

yachts’ cruising area a little farther north this summer 

to accommodate that market as well. 

Since starting the company just two years ago, 

Perrich says he has found that fractional ownership 

appeals to a wide range of interested parties. 

Sharing the property is not usually about the issue 

of money with his clients—it’s more a matter of 

time. He says that LL at Sea has received strong 

interest even from groups they hadn’t counted on. 

“We found that many serious inquiries came from 

experienced yachtsmen,” he says. “Many have owned 

their own yachts for years; now, with getting older, 

they’re looking for a way to continue to enjoy all of the 

pleasures with less responsibility.” Others are interested 

in “trading up,” but don’t want to deal with the 

maintenance, upkeep and security that commitment 

would incur. “For them,” he says, “Owning a yacht for 

three weeks a year is the ideal solution.” 

Perrich says, that on average, the typical yacht 

owner spends just three weeks a year on his boat 

anyway—but pays for it 365 days a year. And maintenance 

costs, he says, run 10-15% of the yacht’s 

cost. With fractional ownership, Perrich emphasizes, 

participants get the benefits of outright ownership, 

but at only 1/12 of the cost. And what’s more, 

they can write it off as personal property. Although 

the yacht is owned by a corporation, each individual 

can take his share as a personal deduction. 

LL at Sea has filed for fractionalization in 

Florida, and has set up several fractional-ownership 

programs. They specialize in brand-new 

boats, 80 feet and up, ranging from Italian to U.S. 

designs. All yachts are crewed by a highly skilled 

team that includes a chef specifically trained for 

creating culinary masterpieces at sea. Twelve owners 

are each able to select 21 days per year from 

three main cruising areas. The remaining weeks 

are allocated for yacht transfer, maintenance, and 

crew vacations. Each owner also pays an annual 

maintenance fee to cover such things as scheduled 

services, cleaning, and yacht transfer. Variable costs 

per week include food, drink, dockage, and fuel. 

He says that LL at Sea’s initial yacht offered for fractional 

ownership already has its 12 owners, and that 

there’s currently strong interest in their 120ft offering. 

By April, he says, the company predicts they’ll have 

enough clientele to close three boats. In fact, he says 

demand has been so high, that they are looking into 

partnerships with European builders to bring their 

fractional-ownership programs to the Mediterranean. 

So whether you’re an experienced yachtsman looking 

for an alternative to full-time ownership; a businessman 

looking for an investment that fulfills work 

and family entertainment requirements; or a frequent 

charterer who may not yet be ready to make the leap to 

full ownership, sharing your yacht with 11 other people 

may be the way to go. Y V C 


YACHTING TRENDS 

A different way 

to buy a yacht 


Sharing a yacht is an appealing investment 

for businessmen and experienced yachters 

alike. 


Information 

For more information on LL at Sea’s 

fractional ownership programs, 

contact: David Perrich at 727-656-9952 




With more and more emphasis on “living 

the good life,” innovative concepts 

have emerged that allow those wanting 

to “have it all” to partake in a smorgasbord of 

luxury lifestyle options. Based on the premise of 

“why go it alone, when you can lower the cost of 

ownership and give more people the option to take 

part” timeshare and fractional ownership plans 

have multiplied rapidly. They now run the gamut 

from luxury condos and upscale vacation homes, 

to private jets, enviable cars, and even spectacular 

jewelry and designer couture. Not only do these 

shared arrangements enable owners to indulge in 

a variety of business and vacation options, they 

release them from the burdens of ownership and 

provide opportunities for investment. 

Yacht ownership is one of the latest entries in 

the fractional ownership ring, and it has unique 

advantages. Unlike owning a share of a beachfront 

community on Cape Cod or a mountaintop 

ski house in Aspen, in which there are a limited 

number of preferred weeks, the mobility of a yacht 

allows all shareholders to enjoy optimal weeks 

aboard. From Maine and Martha’s Vineyard in the 

summer, to the Bahamas and the Caribbean in the 

winter, owners never have to settle for an off-season 

week. They can usually choose a few weeks a 

year, in three different locations. 

Dave Perrich, VP of sales and marketing, for 

Luxury Lifestyles at Sea (LL at Sea), says the 

yachts his company offers cover the cruising area 

from the Chesapeake Bay in Maryland to the 

Caribbean. This year, he says, he’s had increased 

interest in the Montauk, NY, area, particularly 

from celebrities, and will most likely expand the 

yachts’ cruising area a little farther north this summer 

to accommodate that market as well. 

Since starting the company just two years ago, 

Perrich says he has found that fractional ownership 

appeals to a wide range of interested parties. 

Sharing the property is not usually about the issue 

of money with his clients—it’s more a matter of 

time. He says that LL at Sea has received strong 

interest even from groups they hadn’t counted on. 

“We found that many serious inquiries came from 

experienced yachtsmen,” he says. “Many have owned 

their own yachts for years; now, with getting older, 

they’re looking for a way to continue to enjoy all of the 

pleasures with less responsibility.” Others are interested 

in “trading up,” but don’t want to deal with the 

maintenance, upkeep and security that commitment 

would incur. “For them,” he says, “Owning a yacht for 

three weeks a year is the ideal solution.” 

Perrich says, that on average, the typical yacht 

owner spends just three weeks a year on his boat 

anyway—but pays for it 365 days a year. And maintenance 

costs, he says, run 10-15% of the yacht’s 

cost. With fractional ownership, Perrich emphasizes, 

participants get the benefits of outright ownership, 

but at only 1/12 of the cost. And what’s more, 

they can write it off as personal property. Although 

the yacht is owned by a corporation, each individual 

can take his share as a personal deduction. 

LL at Sea has filed for fractionalization in 

Florida, and has set up several fractional-ownership 

programs. They specialize in brand-new 

boats, 80 feet and up, ranging from Italian to U.S. 

designs. All yachts are crewed by a highly skilled 

team that includes a chef specifically trained for 

creating culinary masterpieces at sea. Twelve owners 

are each able to select 21 days per year from 

three main cruising areas. The remaining weeks 

are allocated for yacht transfer, maintenance, and 

crew vacations. Each owner also pays an annual 

maintenance fee to cover such things as scheduled 

services, cleaning, and yacht transfer. Variable costs 

per week include food, drink, dockage, and fuel. 

He says that LL at Sea’s initial yacht offered for fractional 

ownership already has its 12 owners, and that 

there’s currently strong interest in their 120ft offering. 

By April, he says, the company predicts they’ll have 

enough clientele to close three boats. In fact, he says 

demand has been so high, that they are looking into 

partnerships with European builders to bring their 

fractional-ownership programs to the Mediterranean. 

So whether you’re an experienced yachtsman looking 

for an alternative to full-time ownership; a businessman 

looking for an investment that fulfills work 

and family entertainment requirements; or a frequent 

charterer who may not yet be ready to make the leap to 

full ownership, sharing your yacht with 11 other people 

may be the way to go. Y V C 


RESORTS 

Nassau: Something for Everyone 

Atlantis 

The main focus of yachtspeople is the 65-slip 

Marina where yachts from all over the world 

can drop anchor. 

A long-time favorite destination 

for the sun and beach-starved 

weary traveler 

The place is being developed faster than you can say “conch fritter”, though, and the 

assortment of inns, resorts, hotels and other places to hang hat and anchor can be a challenge 

to negotiate. Here we profile four hotels of disparate flavors, each catering to a particular 

type of traveler. 

WRITTEN BY JOSH MAX 

Atlantis: The Place to Drop Anchor 

Atlantis is ideal for vacationers whose tastes 

run to the colossal, the bustling, the allinclusive, 

those with impatient children, 

or all of the above. It’s a city unto itself, a Times 

Square in the middle of sunny paradise, and it’s 

growing, too; construction was going on during 

our trip for a new wing of suites which will probably 

need their own zip code. 

We’d need a dictionary-sized tome to touch 

on every last amenity it offers, but suffice it to 

say the Atlantis has 2,300 guest accommodations 

in its Royal Towers, Coral Towers and Beach 

Tower; over 35 restaurants, bars and lounges, a 

10,000 square-foot Casino, the largest ballroom 

in the Bahamas/Caribbean region, and a marina 

capable of handling the largest of private luxury 

vessels. Eleven million gallons of fresh and 

salt water pools, waterfalls aplenty, a long, long 

beach, exhibits of lagoons and underwater formations 

displaying over 200 species of marine 

life and 50,000 live animals ranging from schools 

of sharks to rainbows of tropical fish make the 

Atlantis a fascinating, days-long source of wonder 

and amazement. 

There’s more, much more, but the main focus of 

yachtspeople ought to be the 63-slip marina; there, 

yachts from all over the world can drop anchor, 

have passports checked, disembark and join the 

fun of Atlantis and the rest of the island for as long 

as you wish with full support of the on-site office. 

Visit Marina Village, a 65,000 square-foot marketplace 

with world-class shopping and fine dining 

including the excellent Seafire with its first-class 

wine selection and specialties like abaco grouper, 

ahi tuna, steaks, poultry and other fine dishes. 

Expect crowds no matter the time of year, and 

keep eyes open while traveling from here to there 

within the grounds, as the general population is 

quite happy to bowl you over should you neglect 

to get out of the way. Front-desk people are efficient 

as one can be when dealing with a massive, 

wealthy horde of thousands seven days a week. 

Also, service is on island time; accept it sooner 

than later and you can better take advantage of 

the various fun and non-stop entertainment. 


Graycliff Hotel and Restaurant: 

Peace, Quiet and 5-Diamond Dining 

Graycliff is an utterly charming, twenty-room, 

250-year-old inn carrying a Bahamian magic 

all its own. Parked on a nondescript side street 

across from the two cannons in the driveway of the 

Governor’s mansion, Graycliff is as unassuming as 

other resorts are ostentatious; when pulling up to 

Graycliff’s steps, our taxi driver missed the entrance 

on his first try because he didn’t know where it was 

despite his eight years on the job. But walk up to 

the homey front porch via the stately stone steps, 

enter the lobby with its high ceilings and natural 

wood beams hovering over you, go to your comfortable, 

extra large suite and have a chair on the 

second-floor porch. Listen to the songs of the birds 

and feel the wind rustling through the trees and 

your pulse begins to relax. Stroll the grounds with 

their dense trees and elegantly manicured fauna, 

dip into one of three pools surrounded by acres of 

foliage, write a postcard, flirt with your other half, 

or do nothing at all. You’ll leave relaxed, refreshed, 

fed and satisfied. A small gym, some of whose 

equipment needed some maintenance, is available, 

as well as a variety of spa packages. 

Graycliff gets high marks for the staff’s ability 

to answer questions and hold a pleasant conversation 

rather than giving you the feeling there are 

a dozen trains to catch in the next five minutes. 

After a short while, you start knowing the names 

of the taxi drivers on call in front of the lobby 

at night, the concierge and various relaxed staff 

about the place, and imagine it’s your house rather 

than a vessel for so much travelin’ cattle. 

When hunger strikes, the prefixe Humidor 

Churrascaria is one of two restaurants owned by 

Graycliff you should visit both to dine in and to 

sample its world-class cigars, rolled and sold right 

there in front of you. The star of the hotel, however, 

is the Graycliff restaurant in the dining room just off 

the hotel lobby. Enjoy the white glove service and 

relish a warm salad with shrimp and smoked duck 

breast, grapefruit and garlic vinaigrette appetizer, a 

boneless full breast of free range chicken stuffed with 

Italian Parma prosciutto, spinach and aged parmesan 

or an oven slow-roasted crisp Long Island duckling 

in Bahamian naval orange sauce escoffer. Exquisite 

caviar for the most discerning connoisseur is available, 

as are some of the world’s most exclusive wines. 

And speaking of wines, a word must be said 

about Graycliff’s cellars. With over 275,000 bottles, 

some of which date back to the 1700s, it is an 

exquisitely exclusive collection, and if you can’t 

find a bottle to suit your taste, your only solution 

would be to obtain a bunch of grapes on your own 

and have at it. A wine cellar tour is a must, and 

can be arranged through guest services. 

Once you’re suitably fed, enjoy one of the 

aforementioned aromatic and homemade cigars. 

A steward will offer you a choice of fat or thin, long 

or short, mild or industrial strength. 

The hotel is in need of a paint job and some 

minor fixits, but for us, this added to the charm. 

Sandals Royal Bahamian Spa Resort 

and Off Shore Island 

The finest in service, and a couples’ paradise. 

It usually takes a couple of days to unwind from 

your crazy home life even in the plushest of vacation 

locales, but being picked up in a Rolls-Royce 

and having your own personal butler during your 

stay as we did is a great way to start off. Sandals 

strives and mostly succeeds in providing the ultimate 

in pampering, the finest in dining and the 

most romantic settings in Nassau, almost daring 

you not to fall in love with whoever you bring 

with you. And make sure you do bring someone 

– Sandals is a couples-only resort, no kids allowed. 

Prices are all-inclusive – no tipping permitted, so 

leave your wallet in your room safe; you won’t 

need it the whole time you visit. 

There are 403 rooms in 13 varying categories of 

swank, seven bars, two beautiful large pools in the 

main area (with swim-up bars) and nine gourmet 

specialty restaurants featuring an array of cuisine 

from Bahamian to French to Italian to Japanese and 

more. Our 1-bedroom suite was the most satisfying 

out of all our Bahamian lodgings with its 4-poster 

bed, a patio, spacious rooms and Jacuzzi. Two 

shops, Little Tings and Royal Tings, offer clothes, 

beach towels, cold drinks, souvenirs and more. 

Sandals makes it incredibly easy to turn your 

life into a days-and-nights long saga of simple 

choices; when to go to the beach, when and what 

to eat and drink, and when to make romance. After 

discovering a trail of rose petals interspersed with 

lit votive candles leading to your bed and the clock 

radio tuned to Lite-FM at night, or partaking in the 

couples’ massage Sandals’ world-class spa offers, 

or imbibing a bit of the fine champagne and liquor 

available at every turn, you surrender, and you’re 

in the mood for love most of the time you’re there. 

Sandals is a sure-cure for the relationship blues. 

And, regarding relationships, consider tying the 

knot here as well; the resort averages 8 weddings 

a day – and your honeymoon can take place on 

premises. 

When you’re not busy making goo-goo eyes at 

your beloved, feast your ears or express your vocal 

talents at the piano bar from 9 PM to 12. At 10 PM 

at the Royal Theatre, an assortment of live bands 

and entertainers is offered including comedians, 

local musicians, and magicians. During daylight 

hours, a variety of land and water sports is available 

for enthusiasts, as well as an up-to-date fitness center 

complete with free weights, treadmills, stationary 

bicycles and more equipment, a far cry from 

the broken-down afterthought some resort fitness 

centers are fond of presenting to vacationers. 

A trip to Sandals Cay, a pristine nearby offshore 

island, is a must. Ferries run every hour on 

the hour, and the island’s fresh water pool, Jacuzzi, 

swim-up pool bar and Café Goombay will further 

untie the knots. 

Sandals’ prices also include round-trip airport 

transfers, an orientation twice daily, and 

Ambassadors for non-English speaking guests. 

Homemade Cigars 

A steward will offer you a choice of fat or 

thin, long or short, mild or industrial strength. 

Graycliff 

Graycliff is as unassuming as other resorts 

are ostentatious 



RESORTS 

Sandals 

Strives and mostly succeeds in providing the ultimate in pampering, 

the finest in dining and the most romantic settings in Nassau. 

“ it is one of the 

most romantic 

settings in 

Nassau, almost 

daring you not 

to fall in love 

with whoever 

you bring with 

you” 

Radisson; One of the Better 

Chain Resorts 

One doesn’t normally exclaim “Radisson!” 

when quizzed about luxury hotels. That said, the 

Bahamas can get awfully crowded at peak season, 

and there inevitably comes a time when room 

at the 5-star inn is scarce and one needs a better-than-decent 

place to hang hat and suitcase. 

Consider the Radisson, one of the better chain 

hotels on the island. 

Something’s always happening in the gargantuan 

lobby, including coffee first thing in the morning, 

tours and excursions hawked by smiling young 

island women parked behind desks loaded with 

pamphlets and brochures, a bar where you can 

get your daiquiri and head off down to the beach, 

and helpful front desk staff. One of this hotel’s 

most pleasing characteristics is its lack of mob; 

even when it’s busy, a beach chair (or two) is always 

available, ditto the pool, so it’s possible to have a 

dip first thing in the morning without discovering a 

horde of shoes, books and other bric-a-brac holding 

a place on every last chaise lounge. 

The kids will love it, too; the Radisson’s “Camp 

Junkanoo” is designed for tykes. Campers enjoy a 

mix of daily themed and supervised activity programs. 

It’s a great way for kids to make new pals 

from all over the globe – while parents get a chance 

to enjoy all that the resort has to offer. From arts 

and crafts or nature walks, straw market field trips, 

to pool play, karaoke, dance lessons, treasure hunts, 

trivia games, beach olympics plus much more, 

Camp Junkanoo lets children enjoy all while being 

closely monitored in a safe, secure setting. 

The price of your stay is all-inclusive, meaning 

you can get a filling meal without hauling the wallet 

out for the fiftieth time that day, or signing a bill 

that bites you when you check out. Lunch and dinner 

is better than breakfast; you’ll probably want 

to grab a banana, orange, mini-box of cereal and 

apple juice to go rather than delve into the eggs or 

pancakes each morning. Rooms here are what they 

are, and sometimes that’s all you need – a place to 

sleep and shower rather than spend extensive time 

in. Many rooms have lovely views, though, and it’s 

nice to wake up, walk to the balcony and have a 

peek at the waves while you remind yourself of your 

friends back home who are sitting in traffic. 

The surrounding areas of the Radisson feature 

restaurants where the fare jumps quite a few 

notches in quality. One must-visit is Indigo; we 

liked it so much we ate there twice. 

Try the sushi, the coconut curry conch chowder, 

the tuna cranberry cakes, Asian egg noodles 

with spicy shrimp, and most everything else on the 

menu. No need to write down the address for your 

taxi driver, either; everyone knows where Indigo is. 

The Radisson offers entertainment most 

nights, a pleasure as long as one remembers 

this is the Bahamas and not off-Broadway here; 

after witnessing the evening floor show consisting 

of male twins impersonating Bette Midler, Neil 

Diamond, Barbra Streisand and others, you’ll have 

something to include on your postcards home 

alongside “Having a great time!” Y V C 

Jet Blue (www.JetBlue.com) flies directly to Nassau 

out of JFK and other airports; their friendly and 

helpful flight attendants and TVs on the back of 

each seat make the trip a fun ride. 





Information 

www.Atlantis.com • www.GrayCliff.com 

www.Sandals.com • www.radisson-cablebeach.com 


RESORTS 

Sandals 

Strives and mostly succeeds in providing the ultimate in pampering, 

the finest in dining and the most romantic settings in Nassau. 

“ it is one of the 

most romantic 

settings in 

Nassau, almost 

daring you not 

to fall in love 

with whoever 

you bring with 

you” 

Radisson; One of the Better 

Chain Resorts 

One doesn’t normally exclaim “Radisson!” 

when quizzed about luxury hotels. That said, the 

Bahamas can get awfully crowded at peak season, 

and there inevitably comes a time when room 

at the 5-star inn is scarce and one needs a better-than-decent 

place to hang hat and suitcase. 

Consider the Radisson, one of the better chain 

hotels on the island. 

Something’s always happening in the gargantuan 

lobby, including coffee first thing in the morning, 

tours and excursions hawked by smiling young 

island women parked behind desks loaded with 

pamphlets and brochures, a bar where you can 

get your daiquiri and head off down to the beach, 

and helpful front desk staff. One of this hotel’s 

most pleasing characteristics is its lack of mob; 

even when it’s busy, a beach chair (or two) is always 

available, ditto the pool, so it’s possible to have a 

dip first thing in the morning without discovering a 

horde of shoes, books and other bric-a-brac holding 

a place on every last chaise lounge. 

The kids will love it, too; the Radisson’s “Camp 

Junkanoo” is designed for tykes. Campers enjoy a 

mix of daily themed and supervised activity programs. 

It’s a great way for kids to make new pals 

from all over the globe – while parents get a chance 

to enjoy all that the resort has to offer. From arts 

and crafts or nature walks, straw market field trips, 

to pool play, karaoke, dance lessons, treasure hunts, 

trivia games, beach olympics plus much more, 

Camp Junkanoo lets children enjoy all while being 

closely monitored in a safe, secure setting. 

The price of your stay is all-inclusive, meaning 

you can get a filling meal without hauling the wallet 

out for the fiftieth time that day, or signing a bill 

that bites you when you check out. Lunch and dinner 

is better than breakfast; you’ll probably want 

to grab a banana, orange, mini-box of cereal and 

apple juice to go rather than delve into the eggs or 

pancakes each morning. Rooms here are what they 

are, and sometimes that’s all you need – a place to 

sleep and shower rather than spend extensive time 

in. Many rooms have lovely views, though, and it’s 

nice to wake up, walk to the balcony and have a 

peek at the waves while you remind yourself of your 

friends back home who are sitting in traffic. 

The surrounding areas of the Radisson feature 

restaurants where the fare jumps quite a few 

notches in quality. One must-visit is Indigo; we 

liked it so much we ate there twice. 

Try the sushi, the coconut curry conch chowder, 

the tuna cranberry cakes, Asian egg noodles 

with spicy shrimp, and most everything else on the 

menu. No need to write down the address for your 

taxi driver, either; everyone knows where Indigo is. 

The Radisson offers entertainment most 

nights, a pleasure as long as one remembers 

this is the Bahamas and not off-Broadway here; 

after witnessing the evening floor show consisting 

of male twins impersonating Bette Midler, Neil 

Diamond, Barbra Streisand and others, you’ll have 

something to include on your postcards home 

alongside “Having a great time!” Y V C 

Jet Blue (www.JetBlue.com) flies directly to Nassau 

out of JFK and other airports; their friendly and 

helpful flight attendants and TVs on the back of 

each seat make the trip a fun ride. 





Information 

www.Atlantis.com • www.GrayCliff.com 

www.Sandals.com • www.radisson-cablebeach.com 


CRUISING CIGAR MAN 

I’ve Got Mail! 

For this issue I thought I’d dip in to my 

mailbox and publish some questions I’ve 

received in the past few months that may 

also be concerns of yours. As I usually 

say when I reply to a question, ‘I hope this 

helps.’ 

WRITTEN BY 

GARY KORB 

Tubed Cigars In or Out 

I have several Romeo y Julieta and Partagas, 

as well as maybe 25 or 30 different Fuente Fuente 

OpusX cigars that are either in cedar-lined aluminum 

tubes or glass tubes. I took the Cubans 

out of their tubes when I put them in my larger 

humidor, but left the OpusX cigars in the glass 

tubes with the end plug removed (it’s a smaller 

count humidor that has ONLY OpusX cigars in 

it). Is this a good way of storing or not Thanks for 

your advice, as I have heard both sides of the argument. 

— Rick 

I get this question often, and yes, it is a good way to 

store them. I’m a traditionalist, in that I remove the 

cello wrappers from the cigars in my humidor – well, 

most of them. For the pricey stuff, like Fuente Fuente 

OpusX, Davidoff, Padron Anniversary 1964, and other 

luxury class cigars, I feel it’s better to leave them in the 

cellos. If they’re tubos, I recommend removing the cap 

so some additional air-flow gets in. Even though both 

glass and metal tubos will maintain proper humidity 

for months, you get the peace of mind of knowing 

that the cigars are getting air flow. Keeping your finest 

cigars in their cellophane wrappers and tubes is also 

the best way to protect the outer wrapper leaf, particularly 

if your cigars get jostled when reaching for a 

cigar at the bottom of your humidor. 

Spaced-out Cigars 

Assuming that the humidor is not filled to 

capacity, is there an ideal scheme for storing the 

cigars - or, for example, does it make any difference 

if they are stacked willy-nilly inside 

—Tom B. 

Not at all. Just try to keep some space between 

the cigars for air-flow, an important ingredient in 

keeping your cigars fresh and supple. Don’t pack 

them tightly into the humidor like they are in the 

factory box. If there are some cigars you smoke more 

often, keep them near the top. You also want to 

rotate them every couple of months by moving the 

ones on the bottom row up to the top row, etc. This 

is due to the fact that the humidity and temperature 

will vary in different sections of the humidor. 

Storing Factory-Packed Boxes, 

and Long-term Aging 

I have two questions: First, how do I keep 

boxed cigars in my humidor, sealed or opened I 

have purchased a 550 ct. cabinet humidor that will 

hold several boxes. Secondly, how do I tell what 

cigars are good for long term aging (10+ years), 

and which ones peak in only a few years 

— Don 

To answer your first question, keep the factory 

boxes sealed until you’re read to open them. Your 

cabinet humidor is really a mini humidified warehouse. 

On the other hand, if you plan on picking 

from different boxes as you smoke, as long as the 

conditions are within 65% - 70% RH and about 70° 

Fahrenheit, they can remain open, as they would be 

in a cigar store display case. 

Regarding how to tell which cigars are better for long 

term storage, when it comes to premium long-filler 

cigars, there’s no way to tell. So look at it this way: The 

better cigars, especially if they’re valuable or rare, you 

may want to keep longer for those “special occasions.” 

But my philosophy is to “smoke ‘em now.” When a 

cigar is shipped from the factory it’s ready to smoke, 

although some additional months of home aging 

does help settle them. So, enjoy them as soon as you 

can. Ten years sounds like an awfully long time to 

wait to have a good cigar, especially a GREAT one. 

What’s Better, Wood or Plastic 

My friends frown at my use of large Tupperwaretype 

containers in which I store my extensive stash 

of cigars. This system allows me to dedicate one container 

to one type of cigar so they do not marry, and 

has the added advantage of containing outbreaks of 

mold, beetles, and other undesirable problems. I use 

a gel humidifier and a digital hygrometer, plus a small 

strip of Spanish cedar between the layers of cigars to 

allow air and humidity to circulate, and I leave the 

cellophane wrappers on. I eventually want to build 

a humidor with individual cedar lined boxes that will 

allow the cigars inside to be physically separated on 

pullout cedar pallets, each with its own gel humidifier 

& hygrometer. Are there any problems with this 

arrangement or are my friends just cigar snobs 

— Sonny C. 

The answer is, they’re snobs. I get dozens of emails 

from cigar smokers who have the same setup as 

you, and their cigars are fine. I prefer to store my 

cigars using the more “traditional” wooden humidor, 

but as they say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” 

However, the “traditionalist” in me suggests that 

you invest in at least one good-quality humidor for 

your primos. Other than that, it looks like you’ve got 

the situation well in-hand (pun-intended). 


Gary Korb is the resident cigar guru at Famous Smoke Shop 

(www.FamousSmoke.com) in Easton, PA. He has been 

enjoying the wonderful world of cigars for over 25 years. 


CRUISING CIGAR MAN 

I’ve Got Mail! 

For this issue I thought I’d dip in to my 

mailbox and publish some questions I’ve 

received in the past few months that may 

also be concerns of yours. As I usually 

say when I reply to a question, ‘I hope this 

helps.’ 

WRITTEN BY 

GARY KORB 

Tubed Cigars In or Out 

I have several Romeo y Julieta and Partagas, 

as well as maybe 25 or 30 different Fuente Fuente 

OpusX cigars that are either in cedar-lined aluminum 

tubes or glass tubes. I took the Cubans 

out of their tubes when I put them in my larger 

humidor, but left the OpusX cigars in the glass 

tubes with the end plug removed (it’s a smaller 

count humidor that has ONLY OpusX cigars in 

it). Is this a good way of storing or not Thanks for 

your advice, as I have heard both sides of the argument. 

— Rick 

I get this question often, and yes, it is a good way to 

store them. I’m a traditionalist, in that I remove the 

cello wrappers from the cigars in my humidor – well, 

most of them. For the pricey stuff, like Fuente Fuente 

OpusX, Davidoff, Padron Anniversary 1964, and other 

luxury class cigars, I feel it’s better to leave them in the 

cellos. If they’re tubos, I recommend removing the cap 

so some additional air-flow gets in. Even though both 

glass and metal tubos will maintain proper humidity 

for months, you get the peace of mind of knowing 

that the cigars are getting air flow. Keeping your finest 

cigars in their cellophane wrappers and tubes is also 

the best way to protect the outer wrapper leaf, particularly 

if your cigars get jostled when reaching for a 

cigar at the bottom of your humidor. 

Spaced-out Cigars 

Assuming that the humidor is not filled to 

capacity, is there an ideal scheme for storing the 

cigars - or, for example, does it make any difference 

if they are stacked willy-nilly inside 

—Tom B. 

Not at all. Just try to keep some space between 

the cigars for air-flow, an important ingredient in 

keeping your cigars fresh and supple. Don’t pack 

them tightly into the humidor like they are in the 

factory box. If there are some cigars you smoke more 

often, keep them near the top. You also want to 

rotate them every couple of months by moving the 

ones on the bottom row up to the top row, etc. This 

is due to the fact that the humidity and temperature 

will vary in different sections of the humidor. 

Storing Factory-Packed Boxes, 

and Long-term Aging 

I have two questions: First, how do I keep 

boxed cigars in my humidor, sealed or opened I 

have purchased a 550 ct. cabinet humidor that will 

hold several boxes. Secondly, how do I tell what 

cigars are good for long term aging (10+ years), 

and which ones peak in only a few years 

— Don 

To answer your first question, keep the factory 

boxes sealed until you’re read to open them. Your 

cabinet humidor is really a mini humidified warehouse. 

On the other hand, if you plan on picking 

from different boxes as you smoke, as long as the 

conditions are within 65% - 70% RH and about 70° 

Fahrenheit, they can remain open, as they would be 

in a cigar store display case. 

Regarding how to tell which cigars are better for long 

term storage, when it comes to premium long-filler 

cigars, there’s no way to tell. So look at it this way: The 

better cigars, especially if they’re valuable or rare, you 

may want to keep longer for those “special occasions.” 

But my philosophy is to “smoke ‘em now.” When a 

cigar is shipped from the factory it’s ready to smoke, 

although some additional months of home aging 

does help settle them. So, enjoy them as soon as you 

can. Ten years sounds like an awfully long time to 

wait to have a good cigar, especially a GREAT one. 

What’s Better, Wood or Plastic 

My friends frown at my use of large Tupperwaretype 

containers in which I store my extensive stash 

of cigars. This system allows me to dedicate one container 

to one type of cigar so they do not marry, and 

has the added advantage of containing outbreaks of 

mold, beetles, and other undesirable problems. I use 

a gel humidifier and a digital hygrometer, plus a small 

strip of Spanish cedar between the layers of cigars to 

allow air and humidity to circulate, and I leave the 

cellophane wrappers on. I eventually want to build 

a humidor with individual cedar lined boxes that will 

allow the cigars inside to be physically separated on 

pullout cedar pallets, each with its own gel humidifier 

& hygrometer. Are there any problems with this 

arrangement or are my friends just cigar snobs 

— Sonny C. 

The answer is, they’re snobs. I get dozens of emails 

from cigar smokers who have the same setup as 

you, and their cigars are fine. I prefer to store my 

cigars using the more “traditional” wooden humidor, 

but as they say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” 

However, the “traditionalist” in me suggests that 

you invest in at least one good-quality humidor for 

your primos. Other than that, it looks like you’ve got 

the situation well in-hand (pun-intended). 


Gary Korb is the resident cigar guru at Famous Smoke Shop 

(www.FamousSmoke.com) in Easton, PA. He has been 

enjoying the wonderful world of cigars for over 25 years. 


RESORTS 

Next 

Generation Villas 

Imagine if you could take your family or a big group of friends to a private vacation villa in, 

say, Marbella, Miami or St. Tropez. The villa is perfectly located for privacy but still central 

to the beach, buzzed about new restaurants and any sights you might want to meander 

through on a lazy afternoon. It is outfitted with a pool, billiard room, home theater, chef’s 

kitchen, fitness center and amenities like WiFi, Godiva chocolates for munching, a full 

library of DVDs and the plushest robes you’ll find outside a Four Seasons. And, most impossibly, 

there is a staff of concierges, housekeepers, cooks and other good time facilitators on 

standby, ready to address your whims on a moments’ notice. 

WRITTEN BY AGHA KHAN 

Think it’s too good to be true Think again. 

Villazzo is here. Offering private villa rentals 

in magnificent homes in the world’s 

dreamiest destinations, Villazzo’s edge is the combination 

of properties and amenities it offers. 

Unique in the field, Villazzo provides guests with 

the best of five-star hotel amenities in the luxurious 

private villas in its portfolio. 

Surprisingly, the Villazzo idea did not come 

from a hotelier. Instead, it came from an entrepreneur 

who was, himself looking for a high-end 

vacation rental. What Christian Jagodzinski found 

were plenty of beautiful properties, but none 

of them with amenities he was used to, having 

stayed in numerous five-star hotels. To begin with, 

there was no airport transfer to the property. The 

villas were not equipped with an internet connection 

nor in some cases even a phone. Laundry and 

Taking hospitality 

to the next level 

maid services were not part of the package, either. 

And so, like a true entrepreneur, Jagodzinski recognized 

a hole in the market for private villas with 

high-end hotel amenities – surely he couldn’t be 

the only one in search of them 

In 2002, Jagodzinski founded Villazzo and 

began selecting villas to manage “the Villazzo way.” 

With properties in St. Tropez, Marbella, Aspen and 

Miami (one of which is Jagodzinski’s own) and 

more then 20 employees worldwide, Villazzo has 

grown into a thriving boutique hospitality business. 

Careful not to grow the property portfolio 

beyond the ability to provide truly personalized 

service, Jagodzinski and his staff keep their eye 

on the quality of each guest’s experience. The staff 

office is never more than 30 minutes from each of 

the properties – this way, staff can respond quickly 

to guests’ more immediate needs. 

How does it work Prospective guests can 

peruse www.villazzo.com or call one of their offices 

directly to make a reservation for a two night minimum. 

Then, guests are encouraged to submit any 

requests they may have for their stay in advance. 

As Villazzo’s Director of Villa Management, Ludovic 

Roche, points out, “Almost anything is possible if 

we have enough time to make the arrangements.” 

And even on short notice Roche has provided the 

nearly impossible to guests wanting, for example, 

a new billiard table set up by the pool. More standard 

requests range from stocking the fridge with 

a list of groceries to setting up dinner parties with 

catering from noteworthy local restaurants. Once 

on the property, the level of service supplied is 

entirely up to the guests. 


Inside Casa Contenta in Miami, one of Villazzo’s 

signature properties, it is difficult to imagine 

wanting any interference from the outside world. 

On an acre of prime Palm Island real estate, the 

20 million dollar villa is a Spanish-style mansion 

enrobed in tropical foliage with interiors reflecting 

a French sensibility. With over 11,000 square feet 

of living space and grounds that feature a heated 

pool with waterfall and grotto, two Jacuzzis, a wet 

bar with barbecue and even a regulation-sized 

sand volleyball court, there is plenty of privacy on 

the property as well as from the outside world. 

Days float by in the idyllic setting on the Gulf 

of Mexico. Hours by the pool or in the rooftop 

hot tub are the stuff of vacation fantasies. If you 

must check in with the outside world, the business 

office is equipped with an internet-ready 

PC, printer and fax machine. Settle in for a movie 

night in the home theater and take your pick of 

hundreds of DVDs in the villa library. Want to work 

off last night’s dessert and cocktails Head for the 

fitness center where resistance training equipment, 

cardio and even a mirrored wall with ballet 

bar offer the latest exercise options. 

And, much like high-end hotels, the experience 

is enhanced by details, like the Mont Blanc 

pen on the bedside table, fresh flowers delivered 

every morning, 300-thread count sheets, well 

stocked wine cellar and humidor, Aveda products 

in every bathroom, JURA espresso maker in the 

kitchen and Godiva chocolates and fruits around 

the house. Technologically, the house is tricked 

out with all the latest – Ethernet cabling throughout 

the house, Dolby 5.1 home theater systems, a 

vast musical selection available and customizable 

in every room of the house. Villazzo is even in the 

process of installing a biometric security system in 

which guests can simply place their hands up to a 

fingerprint reading sensor for entry to the property. 

The twice-daily housekeeping and turndown 

service is discreetly handled – the effect is felt, but 

their presence is virtually undetectable. 

It’s tempting to stay indoors and enjoy all that 

Casa Contenta has to offer, but Miami is a big city 

with lots to see. Villazzo has a chauffered limousine 

waiting to drive guests to South Beach hotspots or 

for an afternoon of shopping on Ocean Drive. 

Villazzo will also make seamless arrangements 

for golf or tennis, spa treatments and helicopter 

and yacht charters. Want to go out and leave the 

little ones at home in trusted hands Villazzo will 

not only secure a choice restaurant table for your 

party but send a nanny to the house to look after 

the children. 

The best part is that it’s entirely up to you 

whether you want to enjoy Miami on the streets 

of South Beach or delivered directly to you at the 

villa. The staff regularly delivers dinners from local 

favorites, Shoji Sushi, Smith & Wollensky and Joe’s 

Stone Crab, but they can make arrangements with 

virtually any restaurant in town. 

With services such as these, it is no surprise 

that celebrities are among Villazzo’s devotees. 

Although Villazzo’s staff is tight-lipped about 

their clientele, other sources informed me that 

Derek Jeter and Jamie Foxx had recently enjoyed 

Villazzo’s services in Miami. 

Connoisseurs who find in Villazzo everything 

Jagodzinski found lacking in other villa rental services 

will be heartened to know that “the Villazzo 

standard” found at Casa Contenta is also the norm 

at the other Miami villas, evocatively named Villa 

Gabrielle and Villa Capponi. In an elite Coral 

Gables neighborhood, Villa Gabrielle is comfortably 

laid out for large or more intimate parties. 

Each room is a refreshing burst of color, giving 

the property a playful touch. The massive outdoor 

grilling area invites poolside barbecues, which can 

either be arranged for guests or left to their own 

culinary skills. Villa Capponi, on the other hand, is 

a bit more extravagant in its invitations. Owned by 

a nightlife impresario, the property is the perfect 

celebratory destination located in close proximity 

to the pulsing center of South Beach. 

The coastal city of Marbella, long a treasured 

vacation destination of Spaniards and citizens 

of the world, houses three Villazzo properties: 

Villa El Cid, Villa Flamingo and Villa Enola. Each 

offers a convenient, yet unique location in the 

hilly Marbella area. Golf lovers gravitate to Villa El 

Cid for its proximity to the Flamingos Golf Course 

while Villa Flamingo and Villa Enola both enjoy 

breathtaking views of the Mediterranean and the 

North African coastline. 

The Villazzo properties in St. Tropez live up to 

the city’s glamorous reputation. Villa Belle Vue and 

Villa Village are classic French Riviera luxury homes, 

and are worth 7 million euros and 15 million euros, 

respectively. They are joined by Apartment du Port, 

Villazzo’s only apartment property. But do not be 

dissuaded – its 1,600 square feet are beautifully laid 

out into a charming three bedroom home fronted 

by the port of St. Tropez. 

Each of the well-chosen properties reflects 

Villazzo’s signature aesthetic: elegant luxury living 

with an emphasis on comfort. But, unlike many 

chain hotels, the unique features of each property 

are not crushed under uniformity. Instead, the 

service is consistent but not generic. Villazzo staff 

are trained at the highest level of the hospitality 

industry. Unlike either posh hotels or new “destination 

clubs,” Villazzo follows a strict philosophy 

that the client should pay for only those products 

or services they actually use. There is no membership 

fee or annual fee, simply the rental fee for the 

property. And, likewise, if a guest has no interest in 

a full-time butler, in-house massage treatments, 

or an exotic car rental, he will not be charged for 

extra services. But, decadent services like these are 

awfully difficult to resist, aren’t they Y V C 


Agha Khan lives in Manhattan and writes for luxury 

lifestyle publications. 

Zulfi1@hotmail.com 

Villazzo 

Combines five-star hotel amenities with sumptuous 

vacation villas around the world. 

“ Each of the 

well-chosen 

properties 

reflects Villazzo’s 

signature 

aesthetic: 

elegant luxury 

living with an 

emphasis on 

comfort” 



THE PACIFIC 

Island Fever 

Catch the Aloha spirit by 

island hopping in Hawaii 


While many a honeymooning couple has enjoyed a sunset luau at a Maui resort and families 

have been vacationing on Honolulu’s famed Waikiki beach for decades, surprisingly 

few travelers know Hawaii off the beaten path. What better way to explore the nooks and 

crannies of the more popular islands and get to know Hawaii’s less touristy islands than by 

planning an island-hopping vacation Whether you want to captain your own yacht or hire 

a helicopter, Hawaii’s islands were made for exploring. In fact, given the rugged coastal 

landscape of some islands, there is no other way to see all of Hawaii’s natural beauty. So, 

pack your bags and follow our ten-day itinerary on three of Hawaii’s most majestic islands 

designed to give you maximum Aloha spirit. 


Day One: Oahu 

The island of Oahu is an ideal starting point 

and transition from the mainland to Hawaiian life. 

The city of Honolulu, the island and state’s primary 

hub, is a cosmopolitan city filled with commercial 

development, hotels, restaurants, shops, spas and 

nightlife. Oh, and did we mention, the beach The 

white sands of Waikiki extend across a stretch of 

the city, drawing in picnicking local families and 

guests of upscale resorts alike. Every urban amenity 

is available, yet Honolulu’s visual landscape 

of ocean, mountains and tropical foliage remind 

visitors that they’re not on the mainland anymore. 

It is Hawaii’s third largest island with much to see 

and do. 

Popular hotels among luxury travelers include 

the Kahala (formerly the Kahala Mandarin 

Oriental), whose recent $20 million refurbishment 

provides updated décor and poolside cabanas 

outfitted with high tech amenities such as iPod 

Nanos, flat screen televisions and wireless internet 

access. Another favorite is the W Honolulu 

Diamond Head Hotel, which is also completing an interior overhaul in April. Though the trendy W 

style will remain, the look in each room will be updated and W’s popular signature bed will be added 

to each room. Beachside Hyatt Regency Hotel and Spa, Halekulani Hotel, Castle Waikiki Shore, and 

ResortQuest Waikiki Beach Tower attract discerning visitors. 

While on Oahu, don’t miss the landscape and sights beyond Honolulu – Waikiki, though beautiful, is 

only one of many beaches on Oahu. Take in the secluded beaches of Southeast Oahu and try to guess 

which one served as the backdrop to that infamous scene in “From Here to Eternity”. Take the yacht 

along the popular surf spots of the North Shore to Kaena Point where Hawaiian tradition holds that 

souls meet eternity. 

Day Four: Kauai 

Now that you’ve acclimated to the time difference, the warm, slightly humid climate, and the 

friendly atmosphere, it’s time to move on to pure Hawaiian spirit in Kauai. Laid-back and less developed 

yet with every amenity needed for living well, Kauai represents the essence of Hawaiian life. 

Legislation mandates that no structure is built on Kauai that is taller than a coconut tree, 

so don’t expect to find high-rise resorts or a skyscraper-filled skyline. The island 

is, however, filled with rainforest hiking trails, dramatic mountain views and 

foliage like you’ve never seen before – after all, it is called The Garden Isle. 

Kauai is small enough to drive most of the way around within a 

day – roads stop at the Napali coast on the North Shore, and 

the only way to traverse the mountains is by helicopter, 

boat, or, for the very adventurous, a rigorous hike 

across steep mountains. The reward Secluded 

beaches and photo opportunities your friends 

back home will not believe. The southern tip of 

the island at Poipu Beach is less dramatic but 

has more reliably dry weather, and with the gorgeous 

Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa and fine 

dining such as Roy’s, it is a popular area to stay. 

On the Eastern coastline between the two ends 

of the island are the more populated towns of 

Kapaa and Lihue. Kapaa has a youthful feeling, its 

downtown littered with surfer cafes, burger joints 

and health food shops. 

The most magnetic draw of the island is ultimately 

the North Shore with its emerald mountains 

and hidden beaches. Starting with the luxurious 

Princeville Resort in the developed area of 

Princeville and further, the landscape is magical. 

Honolulu & Waikiki 

The white sands of Waikiki extend across a 

stretch of the city, drawing in picnicking local 

families and guests of upscale resorts alike. 

Oahu Inside Tips 

• If you happen to be an active or 

retired military or civilian Department 

of Defense employee, you’re in luck. 

The beautiful Hale Koa Hotel right on 

Waikiki Beach and adjacent to Fort 

DeRussy is reserved just for you – and, 

at less than half what neighboring 

luxury hotels cost. 

• Looking for the ultimate in romance 

Then book the Vera Wang Suite at the 

Halekulani – if you can. Booked up 

frequently for honeymoons and anniversaries, 

the 2,100 square foot suite 

with 600 foot lanai designed by the 

celebrated wedding dress designer, is 

arguably the most beautiful hotel suite 

in all of Hawaii. 

• Want to experience old Hawaiian glamour 

Then the Royal Hawaiian, a pink 

structure built in 1927 as a Spanish- 

Moorish homage to Rudolph Valentino 

on an elite stretch of Waikiki, is for you. 

The grande dame of Honolulu hotels, 

its architecture and décor will take 

you back to a bygone age of Queen 

Kaahumanu who used to summer on 

the very same stretch of beach. 



CATAGORY HEAD 

Lava Rocks 

Crashing Surf on Black Sand Beach on the 

Big Island of Hawaii. 

Kauai Inside Tips 

• Many well-heeled visitors opt to rent private 

homes rather than stay at one of the 

hotels or resorts. Kauai Chill maintains 

three homes in Hanalei – one oceanfront 

and two with mountain views, all of 

which can include maid, catering and 

massage services. (www.kauaichill.com) 

Secret Beach Hideaway is another slice 

of heaven on the North Shore offering private 

cottages on acres of land on one of 

the area’s most beautiful beaches. (www. 

secretbeachkauai.com) 

• Want to be in trusted hands Have Pure 

Kauai organize your accommodations 

and time in Kauai through their special 

spa and adventure getaways. Pure 

Kauai will arrange exceptional North 

Shore accommodations in private condos 

or architecturally masterful estates. 

Then the capable staff will tone you 

with hiking, snorkeling, horseback riding, 

kayaking, personal training, and 

yoga and pamper you with massages, 

facials and healthy meals. It is a fullservice 

experience with no expense 

spared. (www.purekauai.com) 

Hawaii Inside Tips 

• Although the Hapuna Beach Prince and 

Mauna Kea Beach are sister hotels, 

rates at the Hapuna are invariably less 

expensive with no less service or desirable 

location. 

For guests of the Princeville Resort, a beach and world-class golf course are available. Further 

north, several restaurants draw foodies, such as Bali Hai at the Hanalei Bay Resort and Hanalei 

Dolphin. 

While on Kauai, don’t miss the opportunity to golf on some of the world’s most highly 

ranked golf courses. Try the Princeville Resort’s Makai Course and Prince Course, 45 holes 

designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. The Poipu Bay Golf Course is an absolute must for golfers. 

The course, also designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., plays host to the PGA Grand Slam of Golf 

every November. For a unique experience on a course woven into 750 acres of native ecosystem 

– including 40 acres of freshwater lagoons – the Kauai Lagoons Golf Club’s Kiele Course 

is a Jack Nicklaus-designed masterpiece. 

Day Seven: The Big Island of Hawaii 

The island of Hawaii, known as The Big Island is a study in contradictions – black lava rock 

from its five volcanoes and the white sand beaches all the islands are known for. The spectacular 

landscape includes glittering waterfalls nestled in tropical jungles, the snowcapped mountain peak 

of the world’s tallest sea mountain Mauna Kea, and the black lava rocks intermingled with sandy 

beaches of white, golden and shades of green. Despite its size (it’s roughly the size of Connecticut), 

it is the least populated of all the islands of the Hawaiian archipelago. 

Although it boasts several luxury hotels and resorts, Hawaii is more inclined to inspire spiritual 

awe and wonderment than the desire for pampering. It is also an adventurer’s dream – kayakers will 

delight in its coastline’s caves and the beaches only accessible by boat. Hop off the boat and take in 

the colorful, majestic life under the sea with scuba or snorkeling gear. On the island, hiking, biking and 

horseback riding will take you far, far away from it all onto volcanoes and deep inside rainforests. 

The Kohala Coast is graced with several beautiful places to stay. Visitors looking for luxurious 

amenities will find them at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii, Mauna Kea 

Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Resort and Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. 

While on The Big Island, don’t miss the chance to see eleven types of terrain in one helicopter 

tour. Strap in and prepare yourself for jaw-dropping grandeur. Sunshine Helicopters offers four 

types of tours on request. (www.sunshinehelicopters.com) Some would argue that you’ve never 

seen a truly majestic sunset until you’ve seen one from the observatory at Mauna Kea, named the 

white mountain for its snowcapped peak. The Hawaii Forest and Trail tour agency will take you 

up to their collection of telescopes for a sunset view and dinner at a historic ranch nearby. (www. 

hawaii-forest.com) Y V C 


Agha Khan lives in Manhattan and writes for luxury lifestyle publications. 

Zulfi1@hotmail.com 


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THE MEDITERRANEAN 

Port Grimaud: 

Luxury living 

with a yacht in 

your yard! 

Home Sweet Port 

Once upon a short time ago a French man 

named François Spoerry had a unique and 

watery vision for his yacht. His wish was 

to create a beautiful home where he could 

moor his boat in the backyard – the visionary 

Gallic was an avid sailor as well as 

being a creative architect. And lucky for an 

elite few, his wish came true. 

WRITTEN AND PHOTGRAPHED 

BY PAULA FARQUHARSON 

The development he designed in the Gulf 

of Saint-Tropez in the south of France has 

attracted investors and yacht owners from 

all over the world who appreciate his excellent 

taste in real estate and the perfect location on 

the Mediterranean Sea. An added attraction is 

the mild micro-climate and sheltered harbour 

that Port Grimaud enjoys, which is thanks to 

protection from the Alps to the north. Just think 

Venice but in the south of France! The exclusive 

complex with its playful colours was designed to 

resemble the romantic Italian city with the luxury 

homes built on a number of islands connected by 

Venetian-style bridges. 

A Vision Realised 

Built on the spot where the Greeks built 

Athenopolis 2000 years ago, this luxurious living 

location was a swampland when Spoerry purchased 

the land and started building the marina 

village in 1966. However, he was inspired by the 

prime location, heavenly mountain views and 

accessibility to the Mediterranean Sea. The fact 

that it was a swamp did not deter him. This idyllic 

location is heaven for yacht owners who, like 

Spoerry, wish to own a property which allows 

direct access by water and a safe and secure place 

to moor your luxury craft. Each house has its own 

private mooring pier. The picturesque canals that 

interweave among the pretty pastel-coloured 

houses with terracotta tiled rooftops allow you to 

safely maneuver your yacht to home base. Port 

Grimaud is an excellent marina as it is sheltered 

and protected from the winds from the East and 

the biting Mistral from the West. 

The dream setting could not look more different 

today in comparison to its marshy origins a 

mere 45 years ago. Port Grimaud is now a thriving 

and sought after port, attracting the rich, 

famous and cream of the crop yacht owners. The 

port promises to seduce you, but if considering 

purchasing a property, you may have to wait to 

enjoy her watery ways! According to the real estate 

agents, there is a waiting list for homes to come on 

the market. 

Fancy Fishermen Homes 

With only approximately 3,500 houses built 

the elite vie for a slice of the prestigious port properties. 

Three types of houses were developed, maison 

de pêcheur (fisherman’s house), which consist 

of 85m 2 of living space and three bedrooms; 

bungalows (compact 60m 2 with two bedrooms); 

and maison large (large house), so called because 

that’s what they are – over 100m 2 with three or 

four bedrooms. There are three sections in the 

complex: section one is a pedestrian zone and the 

other two sections are secured by gates - security 

in the complex is high on the agenda of the management 

company so owners can relax knowing 

their yacht and property are well protected. 

Village Life 

When the heat hits a high, this little port’s cafes 

and terraces are a hive of summer fun. Before 

stopping by the local outdoor market, drop into 

the small church (a Catholic mass is followed 

by a Protestant service on Sunday mornings). 

Even those atheists among us will admire the 

impressive interior with stained glass windows by 

Vasarely. It is just one of the many culturally rich 

visits you will make while at Port Grimaud. The 

marketplace is where residents shop for locally 

grown food and wine from nearby vineyards and 

there is a scrumptious selection of restaurants to 

suit all palates. One fabulous seafood restaurant, 

a favourite of Andie McDowell when in town, is La 

Table du Mareyeur, run by a Scottish man and his 


Venetian-style footbridges 

connect the Provencal style houses, painted in a myriad 

of colours from salmon pink to terracotta, framed 

by traditional lavender and green shutters. 

wife (10 & 11 place des Artisans) Tel:+33 (0)4 94 56 

06 77. They will even deliver dinner to your yacht 

if you don’t feel like stepping ashore. 

If you do wander away from moor-home for 

a night out on the town but don’t want to drink 

and sail, rest assured a water-taxi will whisk you 

home! 

A Village with a View 

Unlike its contemporary port the medieval village 

of Grimaud has its roots steeped in the Gallo- 

Roman period. Until the end of the 19th century 

the Gulf of Saint-Tropez was called the Golfe de 

Grimaud, such was the importance of the town for 

its strategic vantage point. The ruins of the 17th century 

château dominate the hill above the port and 

churches and chapels from the 11th, 15th and 18th 

centuries trace the religious history of the village. 

There is even a windmill (St Roch)! A stroll around 

the old town pops up surprises at every turn: pretty 

squares, tiny flowered facades and shaded little 

lanes as well as the ancient burgesses houses with 

cross-barred windows and domineering doorways. 

No doubt you will stumble upon the locals playing a 

traditional game of boules or pétanque. If you fancy 

dabbling in antique hunting, try the market at Place 

Neuve, held every second Sunday of the month 

(March through October) or at Jas des Robert, every 

Sunday morning. Or for some wine dégustation to 

prepare the palate for a liquid lunch, visit the caves 

of the cooperative of Grimaud winegrowers, located 

between the medieval village and the port at 36 

avenue des oliviers. There are many other domains 

to choose from to find the perfect bouquet. June 

16th this year marks the 40th anniversary of Port 

Grimaud so make a date in your diary for a day and 

night of musical fun. 

Browsing the Region 

The region around Grimaud is exquisite. 

Within a stone’s throw (7km) is the famous Saint- 

Tropez, of Brigette Bardot fame. Its quaint fishing 

village ambiance is still intact while super yachts 

hover in the port unloading their rich and famous 

passengers, who enjoy a stroll through the tiny art 

gallery-lined streets. There is a multitude of leisure 

activities in which to indulge. You can rent motor 

boats, play tennis or golf at the Country Club de 

Grimaud or the Beauvallon Club, go horse riding 

or simply head to the hills for a gentle amble. Y V C 


Paula Farquharson is editor of The Riviera Times newspaper. 

Originally from Ireland, she worked in New York and 

is now based in Nice, France, where she learned to sail. 

PFarquharson@yachtchartersmagazine.com 

Port Grimaud Info 

The property complex is a private copropriété, 

which means that the houses are 

owned by individuals but the complex is run 

and maintained by a management company. 

The water area is approximately 27 ha., the 

quays lined with gardens and fishermen 

houses total 12 km in length, the minimum 

water depth in the main channels is about 

3.5 m and 2.15 m in the side channels. The 

international airport of Nice is a mere 72 kms 

away. Nearby villages worth a visit are the 

famous Saint-Tropez (7kms), its lesser known 

but some say more beautiful sister town of 

Ramatuelle (10 kms), Ste Maxime (7kms) 

and Gassin (9kms). 

The Mediterranean Sea is unusual in that 

the tide is very weak (less than a quarter of 

a metre compared to tides in the north of 

France of up to 15 metres) and there are no 

waves as you find elsewhere in other waters. 

The reason being, there is not the immense 

space required to form them. Only when 

the cold Mistral wind blows will small waves 

appear. The surface water temperature varies 

with the amount of sunshine, from 16C 

in winter to a very pleasant 22C in summer, 

ideal for yachting vacations. 

Contact point 

Grimaud Tourist Office 

1 Bld. des Aliziers - 83310 Grimaud. Tel: +33 

(0)4 94 55 43 83 e-mail: bureau.du.tourisme. 

grimaud@wanadoo.fr 

Harbour facts: 

Port Grimaud I 

Harbour Master’s Office: +33(0)4 94 56 29 88 

Email : capitainerie@port-grimaud.fr 

Mooring places : 1100 

Public mooring places : 287 

Maximum length : 55 m 

Port Grimaud II 


email: aslpg2@wanadoo.fr 

Mooring places : 751 

Public mooring places : 66 


Each house’s design is unique and has its own 

private mooring spot 

Marina 


email: s.n.p.g@wanadoo.fr 

Mooring places: 500 

Public mooring places: 60 




YACHT PROFILE 

Wild 

Thyme 

Bennetti Classic 120’ 

Just recently launched from the Benetti Shipyard in Viareggio, Wild Thyme is the first of 

the Benetti Classic 120’ series to become available to the charter market. She is already 

in popular demand with plans to cruise the West Mediterranean this summer. Leaving her 

home port on the French Riviera she will cruise down to Naples, Capri and Sicily and back 

again before heading to Dublin for The Ryder Cup in September - a debut season packed 

with new adventures. 

Wile Thyme Specifications 

Accommodations: .........................10 Guests 

3 Double Staterooms, 2 Twin Guest 

Staterooms, En-suite Shower/WCs 

12 Day Guests, 7 Crew with own facilities 

Length: ..................................... 120ft / 36.6m 

Beam: ............................................ 26ft / 7.9m 

Builder: ................................................Benetti 

Model: ............................. Benetti Classic 120 

Year: ........................................................2006 

Engines: ..............................2 x 1,550 hp CAT 

Cruising Speed: ............................... 15 knots 

Max Speed: ...................................... 16 knots 

Consumption: ....................................300 l/hr 

Flag: ......................................................British 

Leisure: ...............................Jet Tender, JetSki 

(Licence required), Water Skis, Wakeboard, 

2x Kayaks, Inflatable water-toys 

Dive sets (Rendez-vous only), Snorkelling 

Words such as understated elegance, 

classy sophistication with a chic, contemporary 

edge easily bring to mind 

the unique and beautifully tailored interiors you 

will find as you board Wild Thyme. Cabinetry 

in highly polished rich cherry-woods feature 

throughout the yacht with the exception of The 

Sky Lounge, which features warm honey oak fittings, 

all of which are complemented by a colour 

palette of creams, bronzes and caramels and 

sleek textured fabrics and trimmings. The overall 

impression is one of a beautiful and tranquil 

backdrop where guests can relax wherever their 

cruising itinerary takes them. 

Luxurious colours and fabrics have been chosen 

to create a universal and timeless appeal. 

Colours have been deliberately and subtly linked 

to open out the space and give a harmonious 

and continuous flow as guests move through the 

yacht. Furniture and lighting have also been carefully 

selected to complement the decor theme 

using an abundance of antique brass and crystal 

to give sparkle and light. 

The main salon and formal dining areas are 

dressed in delicately embroidered silks in soft coffees 

and creams, with stunningly beautiful tassel 

trims and onyx marble flooring, bar-top and coffee 

tables. The Sky Lounge has a slightly less formal 

air to it with the oak contrasting with smartly 

tailored soft furnishings in black and bronze, tying 

in with the sophisticated black leather desk-top 

and bar-front. For additional sparkle, black granite 

has been used in the bar-top and coffee table. 

The Master Suite, on the main deck, is decorated 

with silks in ivory and gold and offers a stunning 

view from the panoramic bow window. The 

VIP and Twin Guest Cabins below deck employ 

rich fabrics with exquisitely designed soft furnishings 

and marble bathrooms. To top it all the interior 

colour scheme has been extended to all external 

deck areas with teak and rattan deck furniture 

and matching lounger and scatter cushions. 

In addition the yacht is fully equipped with the 

latest state of the art entertainment extras and an 

extensive list of water toys, as well as zero speed 

stabilizers for maximum comfort at sea. Y V C 

Information courtesy of Blue Water Yachting 

www.bluewateryachting.com 

Information 





Blue Water Yacht Charters, Inc. 

EST. 1983 

M/V NORSEMAN - 108ft 10/12 guest 

starting at $45,000/week inclusive 

We Charter the World... 

From Palm Trees to Glaciers 

www.bluewateryachtcharters.com 

(800) 732 7245 

BVIsailing.com 

GALAPAGOSsailing.com 

800-648-3393 



AFRICA 

Travel Diary: 

Zanzibar Island 

See why East Africa is widely 

regarded as one of the most 

beautiful places on earth 

WRITTEN BY JAMES FOSTER 

With an abundance of wildlife, coupled with rugged landscapes ranging from the sprawling 

Serengeti to lush rainforests and pristine beaches, the region is truly a destination for 

the ultimate traveler. The sunsets seem richer, the water seems more blue, the smiles of 

locals more sincere. Photographers often insist that taking pictures in Africa is the easiest 

assignment there is...since the pictures really take themselves. The descriptions and 

stories told by others who had seen the continent’s raw beauty and witnessed its visual and 

soulful magic firsthand, inspired me. So after graduating from college I volunteered and 

served as a Communications Director at Daystar University in Kenya. It was a position that 

was indeed challenging, but provided me with the tremendous opportunity of being able to 

explore wondrous locales that had previously existed only in my imagination. 


Because of an academic strike 

orchestrated by the students of 

the university, faculty members 

were given time off until the strike 

was resolved. After speaking with 

many of my African friends, it 

was determined Zanzibar Island off the coast of 

Tanzania was not to be missed before my time 

expired as a volunteer. Together with another 

friend, we devised a route and took the plunge. 

Now, as the reader, you must understand several 

things before I go any further. Getting to Zanzibar 

Island from the US is a relatively easy process. 

Book your tickets and accommodations through 

a travel agent (I can’t stress that enough). You 

would most likely fly from the U.S. to Amsterdam, 

then to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. While customs is 

run inefficiently and can take some time, officials 

typically don’t harass Americans. From Dar, Air 

Tanzania flies six times weekly to the island and 

ZanAir and Coastal Aviation have daily flights. 

Once you arrive, a driver will pick you up and 

bring you directly to your hotel. Simple. But, 

since my friend and I weren’t being paid at the 

time, our goal was to not only see as much of 

Zanzibar Island and the greater Tanzanian region 

as possible, but also to do so in the most cost-efficient 

manner - therefore, I would strongly advise 

against taking the route we choose. 

We hopped a bus from Nairobi, Kenya, to 

Moshi, Tanzania, which took roughly thirteen 

hours (including the border hassle and various 

stops along the way). Occasionally we were able 

to nod off, but mostly we just gazed out at the 

scenery unfolding before us. Tall, dry grasses 

leaned slightly in the African breeze, and acacia 

trees speckled the landscape. 

Moshi is a bustling mountain town that serves 

as a general launching point for many trekkers 

hoping to tackle Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest 

peak. After spending the night in a questionable 

hotel and playing in a local rugby tournament 

the following day, we hopped yet another bus for 

Dar es Salaam; approximately eight hours later, 

we had arrived in Tanzania’s port city. When we 

exited the bus we were immediately set upon by 

a group of aggressive “salesmen” – if you can call 

them that. These men wait at bus terminals for 

tourists to disembark, then bombard them with 

offers for hotels, tours, car rentals, crafts – you 

name it. In Africa, these “salesmen” can become 

pretty aggressive, so it’s always wise to at least 

look and act like you know what you’re doing. 

Once you’ve adamantly established that you’re 

not in the market for what they’re selling, they’ll 

usually leave you alone and that will provide you 

with enough time to create some space from the 

commotion, gather your things, then determine 

if in fact you are interested in what they’re selling 

– and in our case, we were interested in getting to 

Zanzibar. 

We were ushered into a windowless storefront, 

then promptly led behind a curtain into the “travel 

agent’s” office, which was nothing more than a 

card table and plastic chair. He offered us two 

options: taking a ferry out to the island, or taking 

a plane, which took about a half-hour and 

cost roughly $50 USD. Inexplicably, the ferry took 

approximately five hours and cost about $35 USD 

– needless to say, we chose to fly. 

We had planned to spend the majority of our 

time along the north end of the island where 

there’s typically a younger crowd and more affordable 

accommodations, but we also wanted to 

experience the historical and cultural epicenter of 

the island as well – Stone Town. Zanzibar Island, 

once under the rule of the Portuguese, Arabs, and 

British, has evolved into something of a melting 

pot, and Stone Town is its truest testament to the 

cultural, architectural and religious inter-mixing. 

Coral-lime houses and a virtual sea of white 

walls drew us into a maze of cobbled back alleys 

and side streets, all boasting their own bazaars. 

The smell of exotic spices mixed with the aroma 

of a shopkeeper’s strawberry-flavored tobacco 

being slowly puffed from an ornate hookah tickled 

our nostrils. Intricately designed doors on 

the homes welcomed visitors with greetings in 

Arabic. We stopped and bought some bananas 

and freshly cut mangoes from a street vendor who 

offered a toothless smile and a genuine “Asante 

sana” (‘thank you very much’ in KiSwahili). 

Mopeds putted past us and bicycle bells jingled 

as their riders casually made their way to the sea- 

Stone Town 

Motion photo of children on their way to school 

in Stowntown alley ways on Zanzibar Island, off 

the coast of Tanzania, Africa 

Catch of the Day 

Colourfully dressed Swahili woman walking on 

Zanzibar beach after having shopped at fishing 

boats returning from the deep sea 

Fishermen (opposite) 

Fishermen going out to sea at sunrise on 

Zanzibar Island off the coast of 

Tanzania, Africa 



AFRICA 

Tropical garden in Zanzibar Resort 

Churches 

Zanzibar was a central point of the slave trade 

and at abolotion this church was built on the site 

of where slaves were sold at market 

“ Your entire 

attitude and 

frame of mind 

can be 

transformed 

through the 

simple pleasures 

of fresh 

fish, ocean 

air, and juicy 

slices of 

mango” 

side promenade, Jamituri Gardens, to unload a 

fresh catch from their banana-leafed baskets. 

As we strolled along, stopping briefly at each 

stand to look at the crafts and exchange pleasantries 

with the vendors, the ocean air filled 

our lungs and intoxicated us with an remarkable 

feeling of island ease. The quick pace we 

usually kept slowed to a lethargic saunter as 

our feet became hopelessly heavy. 

Deciding what to eat, or more appropriately, 

what not to eat, became our biggest challenge 

of the evening. Each candlelit kiosk we 

passed looked and smelled more appetizing 

than the previous one, and with the price of a 

dish ranging anywhere from .25 to .50 cents, 

we stuffed ourselves with octopus smoked in 

banana leaves, sweetmeats, fishcakes, crab 

meat wrapped in chapattis with a Peptang pepper 

sauce and the freshest fruit I’d ever tasted, 

covered with a sugary-sweet milk cream. 

As the sun began to set on Stone Town, tourists 

and locals alike congregated in seaside cantinas 

to sip Tusker beers and swill large glasses 

of rum with sliced limes. The smells of cigar 

smoke and citrus cocktails mixed with the soft 

breezes floating through the open doors and 

windows. Live bands playing coastal Swahili 

music lightened the mood even further and 

before we knew it, the day had passed into 

night and any cares or concerns we had melted 

with the setting sun. 

We had previously booked a room in town 

that would suffice for the two days we planned 

to stay; the cost was reasonable (about $15 

USD per night). It was centrally located, clean, 

had running water, security and a decent bar 

– good enough for us. Because of the island’s 

tourist influx in the mid-to-late 1990s, several 

legitimately luxurious tourist hotels have been 

constructed, and both the Zanzibar Serena Inn 

and the Dhow Palace Hotel are immaculate. 

We woke in the morning to the Muslim call to 

prayer, which by now we had become accustomed 

to while living in Africa, but for every 

mosque’s call to prayer, bells would ring in 

Stone Town’s many churches; it reminded us of 

the very diverse island we were on. 

We had decided to rent mopeds for the day 

and cruise as much of the island as we could, 

and since we only had 600 square miles to 

cover, we figured it to be an attainable goal. 

While the dirt roads were treacherously pockmarked 

with gaping holes left by heavy traffic 

after steady rains, traversing our way through 

the villages proved well worth the trouble. We 

were greeted with laughter, friendly smiles and 

playful children, all wanting to interact with 

new visitors. We explored Zanzibar’s many 

beaches and idled at Mangawapani for a swim 

along the stunning west coast of the island. 

The sun was shining but the subtle breezes 

made the air comfortably warm. We visited 

the Marahubi Palace ruins approximately 

4 miles up the coast from Stone Town and 

stared slack-jawed at the palatial site, imagining 

the self-indulgence and utter decadence 

Sultan Baraghash partook in on the grounds 

that housed his wife and 99 concubines. We 

observed the mighty supporting columns and 

many Persian Baths and pieced together what 

the palace would have looked like presently 

had a fire not destroyed the property in 1899. 

Seeing the palace was certainly a bonus, but 

really we traveled to Zanzibar to take relaxation 

to a whole new level, so we headed 

north on a scouting mission and determine if 

Nungwi was the best beach to stay at for our 

next leg of the trip. Sitting under the thatched 

roof of an open-air restaurant on the water, 

enjoying some chapattis, lentils and a couple 




AFRICA 

Transportation – Old and New 

A view of the shipping options off the coast of 

Zanzibar, Tanzania - a high-speed ferry or a traditional 

sailing dhow 

Information 




cold Tusker beers, we clinked our glasses to 

tranquility. 

As evening slowly approached, familiar 

scenes of candlelit kiosks and fresh catches 

began to repeat themselves and we got the 

distinct feeling that Zanzibar doesn’t see much 

change – which nobody seemed to mind. We 

treated ourselves to a “fancy” dinner at the 

upscale Zanzibar Serena (which cost us about 

$11 USD apiece), then made our way to one 

of the smaller oceanfront hotels that the locals 

claimed had the best views in Stone Town – they 

weren’t lying. We arrived at the expansive terrace 

overlooking the water and ordered some 

drinks, then choose three flavors of tobacco 

off the hookah menu. We sat cross-legged on a 

Persian rug with elaborately-decoracted pillows 

sipping cocktails and smoking from our hookah 

which rested perfectly on a small wooden 

table situated next to us. We laughed and drank 

with locals, met other travelers from all over the 

world, and basically just enjoyed the stars, the 

moon and the cool night air. 

For our last day in Stone Town we had 

arranged to swim with dolphins, so we had to 

get an early start. Though I’m not a regular 

caffeine drinker, I found the thick, rich coffee 

of East Africa irresistible, and fortunately it’s 

served in abundance on Zanzibar. After being 

outfitted with snorkel gear at a beach along 

the west coast, we drifted for roughly an hour 

(which seemed like an eternity due to my handicap 

of motion sickness), then caught up with a 

school of dolphins swimming approximately 15 

feet from us. Since they were wild, we never got 

a chance to come in actual contact with them, 

but just swimming that close was worth the $7 

USD we paid. We then swam to a large lagoon 

that housed an abundance of sea life like I had 

never seen before, including a turtle that our 

guide claimed was over 100 years old. The only 

unfortunate outcome of the day was that we 

didn’t have enough time to take a tour of the 

spice plantations, but I guess that just means 

I’ll have to make a return trip to Zanzibar very 

soon. 

After two days we left Stone Town for 

Nungwi along the north coast. This area of 

the island is known for its seemingly endless 

stretches of beach, its plentiful game fishing, 

and cheap guesthouses for young travelers. We 

paid $5 USD per night for our beach bungalow 

and access to showers. The sand was flourwhite 

and just as fine to the touch, the water, 

a luminescent turquoise blue. Friendly beach 

bars with swinging hammocks and talking parrots 

enticed thirsty patrons to take a load off 

and watch the tide move out with a tall glass of 

rum in hand or a cool bucket of beers. At night, 

guests had the option of paying $2 USD for an 

all-you-can-eat seafood feast on the beach, or 

walking down the road to one of the village’s 

oceanfront restaurants. Acoustic guitars gently 

strumming classic Swahili music were regular 

fixtures at late-night bonfires, and moonlit 

swims in the temperate waters were nothing 

out of the ordinary. Travelers from all walks 

of life came together with locals to share stories 

and enjoy each other’s company around a 

crackling fire. Lying in bed, the gently crashing 

surf lulled us to sleep each night, only occasionally 

awakened by the distant thud of a coconut 

hitting the fine, white sand. 

We stayed in Zanzibar for 10 days and 

returned only when we learned the strike had 

been resolved. Our friends all said we looked 

“different” when we arrived back in Kenya, but 

it wasn’t our deep olive tans or my now sunbleached 

blond hair – they said it was in our 

faces, particularly our smiles. Zanzibar Island 

is one of those truly beautiful places on earth 

where your entire attitude and frame of mind 

can be transformed through the simple pleasures 

of fresh fish, ocean air, and juicy slices of 

mango. Y V C 


After attending the University of San Francisco, James 

lived in East Africa, then eventually settled in New 

York to pursue a full-time career. He landed a job with 

one of the elite luxury personal concierge companies 

and worked as a Dedicated Account Manager for nine 

months before leaving to pursue other endeavours. 

He now devotes most of his time to Africa’s charitable 

causes as a freelance grant writer. In addition, 

he plays semi-professional rugby for the New York 

Athletic Club and remains an avid traveler. 

fosteredina@yahoo.com 




ITALY 

The Amalfi 

Coast 

& Sicily 

SublimeVertigo 

WRITTEN BY MIRIAM CAIN 

Replete with history, the land that gracefully 

extends along the warm waters of the Amalfi 

Coast has seen the birth of empires and cradled 

the growth of civilisations. Arguably the 

best way to explore the west coast of Italy is 

by boat, providing easy access to quiet backwaters 

and anchorages far from the madding 

crowds of landlubbers. 


The beauty and tranquillity of the 

Amalfi coastline stems from a combination 

of old-world charm and 

Italy’s appreciation of the finer 

things in life, making it a wonderful 

place for an intriguing yet relaxing 

holiday. Follow in the footsteps of countless writers 

and composers and allow yourself to succumb 

to the allure of the Amalfi Coast with a charter 

aboard Parsifal III, followed by a few days residing 

ashore to explore the historic island of Sicily. 

Coloured by a long history of splendour and 

suffering, the Amalfi Coast has barely changed 

since the Roman emperors made it their headquarters 

in the first century AD. A place where 

lemon terraces are chiselled into mountainsides, 

it is too steep to support much in the way of 

modern development, meaning this stretch of 

landscape largely remains idyllically untouched. 

Unsurprisingly, the Amalfi Coast has long been 

a magnet for travellers attracted to its glorious cultural 

and artistic heritage, beautiful countryside 

and wonderful food. Hotels and restaurants can 

be found in splendid villas and medieval convents, 

some of which welcomed the first Grand Tourists 

almost two centuries ago. From cities boasting 

innumerable treasures of Renaissance palaces, 

baroque masterpieces and Roman remains, to 

sun-drenched coves hugging the emerald sea, the 

warmth and personality of Italy shines through. 

The islands speckled along the Amalfi coastline 

have the same irresistible appeal. From the 

sophisticated islands of Capri and Ischia to the 

dramatically positioned towns that dot the mainland, 

your charter will take you on a stimulating 

journey of old-world charm and five-star luxury. 

You will step aboard your private yacht in the 

bustling Bay of Naples. Your home for the next eight 

days, the 54m Parsifal III is hailed to be the fastest 

Perini Navi yet built. As you sail across the bay to the 

volcanic island of Ischia with a Campari and soda to 

hand, watch the beguiling landscape scattered with 

relics of bygone empires fade in the distance before 

you turn your attention to fresh wonders. 

Known as ‘the island of well being’, Ischia is 

famous for its thermal springs and therapeutic 

spas, and has long been a source of inspiration for 

artists, musicians and writers. Here you can step 

ashore and browse the boutiques of San’t Angelo, 

or anchor off San Montano Bay and take the tender 

to the Mezzatorre Resort & Spa for a thermal treatment 

in the resort’s old tower. Dating back to the 

16th century, the tower was used by local natives 

to defend themselves against the Saracens and it 

affords wonderful views over Mount Epomeo, the 

Gulf of Naples and Vesuvius. Following an afternoon 

of watersports in the sun-drenched bay of 

Punta Molino, dine on the perfectly situated terrace 

of the Grand Hotel Punta Molino, which promises 

panoramic views over the imposing castle that was 

once the summer residence of the kings of Aragon. 

After a relaxing night aboard Parsifal III it is time 

to sail back across the bay to the mainland. Balanced 

like a ship’s prow high above the sea, Ravello has no 

beach but makes up for it with gardens and views 

that have inspired more than their share of masterpieces, 

most famously D. H. Lawrence’s book 

Lady Chatterley’s Lover. One of the many gardens in 

Ravello, that belonging to Villa Cimbrone, is generally 

acknowledged to be Italy’s most romantic, 

with its well-named Terrace Of Infinity. Roman 

aristocrats took refuge here from the barbarians 

in the 5th century AD, and at the beginning of 

the 20th century the medieval villa and its gardens 

were made into the stunning setting 

that they are today. Stroll down the wisteria-draped 

Avenue Of The Immensity until 

you reach the Belvedere Of Infinity, a sheer 

4,000m drop with busts of emperors and 

the thinnest railings between you and the 

dramatic drop. The 13th century Villa Rufolo, 

with its Moorish cloister, is more famous for 

virtuosos than views. Wagner was so smitten 

by the gardens here that he re-created 

its grounds as Klingsor’s magic 

gardens of seduction in his opera 

Parsifal. Every summer, the gardens 

are the stage for a festival in honour 

of Wagner, and your charter broker 

will be happy to secure tickets for you 

prior to your charter. Italians know 

how to extract maximum pleasure and 

beauty from everyday things and it is 

worth extending your stay in Ravello 

to sip a little prosecco wine as you 

enjoy the tranquillity of an evening on 

the square. 

Ravello Scenic Villa 

Ravello has no beach but makes up for it with 

gardens and views that have inspired more than 

their share of masterpieces, 

Villa Cimbrone Balcony 

One of the statues on the balcony on 

the sea of Villa Cimbrone, one of the 

most famous villas of the Amalfi 

Coast in Ravello. 



ITALY 

Famous town of Positano 

Dramatically positioned alongside ice-cream 

coloured houses spilling almost vertically down 

the terraced mountain 

“ the Amalfi 

Coast has long 

been a magnet 

for travellers 

attracted to its 

glorious 

cultural 

and artistic 

heritage, 

beautiful 

countryside 

and wonderful 

food” 

Pompeii is close by and the following day your 

crew will accompany you with refreshments as 

you wander around the ruins. A ghost town since 

AD79, Pompeii was buried under tiny stones and 

ash from Vesuvius until 1763 when excavation 

of the city began. Much of our knowledge of the 

Romans and their way of life has come from 

Pompeii, whose state of preservation is astonishing. 

As you wander in and out of people’s houses 

and sit on their seats in the amphitheatre you will 

be transported back to a remarkable civilisation 

founded on slavery. 

Fortunately the town of Sorrento, perched on 

the cliffs, was far enough from Vesuvius to survive 

the blast that buried Pompeii. In the early 19th 

century, Grand Tourists fled the hustle and bustle 

of Naples for Sorrento and its calm and comfortable 

atmosphere, which still remains today. 

Before joining the ‘It’ crowd in Capri, step ashore 

and embrace the wraparound views of the Bay 

of Naples from the cliff-top terraced walkways of 

the Museo Correale di Terranova, followed by a 

refreshing ice cream from a gelateria. For those 

who have worked up more of an appetite, reservations 

can be made at the Excelsior Vittoria’s 

‘Bosuet’ terrace and bar, whose guestbook boasts 

many famous names including Richard Strauss, 

The Prince of Wales who also returned Edward 

VII, and more recently Sophia Lauren and Luciano 

Pavarotti. 

Originally part of the Sorrentine peninsula, 

the island of Capri has been through many personality 

changes over the centuries. The dazzling 

island was the playground of Augustus and his 

son Tiberius and, as one of the world’s first tourist 

destinations, Capri’s fate was sealed in 1826 

with the discovery of the iridescent Blue Grotto, 

a spectacular cave which is illuminated a cobalt 

blue certain times of the day when the sunlight 

passes through an underwater cavity and shines 

through the water creating a blue reflection that 

illuminates the cavern. During the summer the 

island is a victim of its own charms as visitors 

arrive in flocks. Thankfully, aboard Parsifal III 

you can enjoy a vast array of watersports around 

the more secluded anchorages to the west of the 

island. As the crowds depart late in the afternoon, 

the discreet glamour of Capri emerges. 

Take a hair-raising ride up to Anacapri to visit the 

paradisiacal gardens of Villa San Michele before 

an aperitif on the Piazzetta and dinner at the 

Quisisana – an A-list favourite since the 1930s. The 

next morning, wake to a beautiful sunrise over the 

Faraglioni rocks or, if you’re early enough, take the 

chairlift and soar above a profusion of flowers to 

the top of Monte Solaro to experience a staggering 

sunrise illuminating views of Capri and the Bay of 

Naples. 

On day four or five, depending on your preference, 

you’ll sail across the Gulf of Salerno to 

the charming town of Positano, dramatically positioned 

alongside ice-cream coloured houses spilling 

almost vertically down the terraced mountain. 

At the peak of the dolce vita era, Positano rivalled 

Capri for jet-set glamour and the town is still popular, 

but minus the day-trippers that flock to Capri 

thanks to the mayor’s ruling to minimise noise and 

promote the finer things in life. Both the harbour 

and the off-lying islets, known as Li Galli, are ideal 

for a leisurely day of watersports. Enjoy an apéritif 

on the terrace of Le Sirenuse and admire the view of 

Parsifal III in the harbour below as the crew set up 

dinner on the aft deck, ready for your return. 

Further down the coast, the traditional fishing 

town of Amalfi boasts past glories as a maritime 

state. The town is no larger in size than neighbouring 

Positano or Ravello, but the whole coastline 

was named after it because of its history. Home to 

wealthy Italian merchants, defeated by Pisa, and 

destroyed by an earthquake, Amalfi was a maritime 

republic rivalling Pisa, Genoa and Venice. 

At its core is Piazza Duomo, from which a flight 

of stairs sweeps to an immense cathedral whose 

façade overlooks the stunning coastline below. 

Explore the town before retiring for an overnight 

sail south towards Sicily and the Aeolian islands. 

Volcanoes created the Aeolian islands, and two 

of the islands’ volcanoes are still active. Inhabited 

since the fifth millennium BC, they were named 

after Aeolus, god of the winds, and are perfect for 

peace and quiet and, naturally, sailing. You’ll awake 

to find yourself anchored off the volcanic island 

of Stromboli, where the volcano has been in a 

state of near-continuous eruption for 2,000 years. 

Characterised by its black volcanic sand, the island 

has many crystal-clear bays, ideal for watersports. 

Stromboli is best observed at sunset from the decks 

of a yacht, so in the early evening set sail for the 

most fashionable of the Aeolian islands, Panarea, 

and join the Milanese yachting crowd with an 


Gulf of Naples 

apéritif on deck while watching the sun set over 

neighbouring Stromboli. This is where jet-setting, 

trend-setting Italians hang out. Step ashore and 

join them at Da Pina, just above the harbour – the 

family-run restaurant is considered to be the best 

on the island. After a peaceful night’s anchorage, 

set sail for Panarea’s offshore islands, and anchor 

off the impressive Basiluzzo for lunch before setting 

sail for the largest island in the chain, Lipari. Home 

to some of the Aeolian’s most notable buildings 

including an 11th century cathedral, impressive 

castles and a 16th century Spanish fort, the island 

has the air of a place where time has stood still. For 

great atmosphere and heady music, the Kasbah 

in the main town has a relaxed and stylish atmosphere. 

Awake for your final sail aboard Parsifal 

III through the Messina Straits and the fleets of 

tall-masted swordfishing boats to Taormina – the 

Monte Carlo of Sicily, where you will bid farewell to 

Parsifal III and her crew and join the landlubbers 

ashore for three or four nights. 

The rugged island of Sicily is yours to explore for the 

next three days. Strategically positioned between North 

Africa and Italy, Sicily has suffered a long history of invasion 

and the influence of the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, 

Arabs and Normans is visible in the form of beautiful temples, 

colourful mosaics and historic buildings. Towering 

250 metres above the stunning coastline, Taormina is 

one of Sicily’s most famous hilltop towns. It is one of the 

smartest and most exclusive small towns in Italy, so why 

not stroll past the boutiques and restaurants before taking 

a helicopter tour over the spectacular summit of Mount 

Etna Situated in a vast natural park, Mount Etna at 3,000 

metres, is Europe’s highest active volcano. It has five craters 

at its summit and 260 volcanic cones flanked by rivers 

of lava. From here, journey to the southwest coast and the 

Valley Of Temples, where the vast archaeological remains 

are unrivalled by any in the world. 

Sitting on its own rocky outcrop and flanked 

by two sandy beaches on Sicily’s south eastern 

coast, Il Castello Di Falconara has been built in 

stages since the 14th century. The original defensive 

structure is a dramatic sight, whereas inside, 

the 17th and 18th century guest quarters provide 

an array of reception rooms and terraces and 

beautiful gardens. Dine among antiques and family 

heirlooms and enjoy a moonlit stroll along the 

private beach before retiring to your own castle 

room for the night. From a castle to a Benedictine 

abbey, the Santa Maria Del Bosco is located in the 

hills south of Sicily’s capital Palermo. Dramatically 

situated at the edge of an oak wood, the abbey is 

a unique property with accommodation in cells 

(once occupied by Benedictine monks) overlooking 

one of two huge 16th century cloisters. The 

surrounding countryside and villages provide an 

insight into a side of Sicily that is rarely seen by 

visitors. 

The capital Palermo, which under Saracen and 

Norman rule became one of the most important 

cities in Europe, lies to the north of the island. An 

opulent city, Palermo has many fine examples of 

Norman and Baroque architecture, including the 

Palazzo Federico. One of the oldest and historically 

most important buildings in Palermo, the 12th 

century palazzo’s sleeping quarters have been 

kept exactly as they would have been in the 17th 

century, apart from added bathrooms. Located in 

the old centre of Palermo, the palazzo is a great 

base for your final few days on Sicily from which 

to explore the Cathedral, and other astounding 

baroque churches and buildings. Y V C 


Miriam Cain is the communications and publications 

manager for Camper & Nicholsons International. She is 

also the managing editor for the the luxury travel magazine 

Sea & I. 

mc@lon.cnyachts.com> 

Parsifal III General Information 

Length: ............................. 177.17’ [54m] 

Beam: ............................... 35.1’ [10.7m] 

Draft: ..................................14.76’ [4.5m] 

Builder: ..................................Perini Navi 

Year: ................................................2005 

Engines: ...................Caterpillar C30 12V 

Speed: ................................. 10/12 knots 

Cabins: ...............................................5/6 

Guests: ...............................................12 

Crew: ....................................................9 

Information 

CNI can create a unique charter along 

the Amalfi Coast and through the Aeolian 

Islands. For further information on 

Parsifal III or any of the yachts in the 

CNI fleet visit www.cnconnect.com 



ASIA 

The 

Andaman 

Islands 

Floating in splendid isolation in 

the middle of the Bay of Bengal 

Administered by India, the 300 or so Andaman Islands are the highest peaks of a submerged 

mountain range that stretches from Sumatra in the south to the Irawaddy delta 

in the north. The Andaman Islands have everything you could desire from an adventurous 

eco-tourism charter destination. There are literally hundreds of deserted islands to 

explore, each one seemingly more spectacular than the last. The beaches are magnificently 

pristine. The snorkeling and scuba diving is amongst the best in the world with an 

almost untouched marine ecosystem. There is a live volcano, thousands of square miles 

WRITTEN BY PAUL JOHNSON 

of untouched jungle, exotic and thriving wildlife and primitive hunter-gatherer tribes. The 

fishing (catch & release) is probably the best in the world. The Andamans is also starting 

to develop a superb reputation as a frontier surfing destination where the reef breaks 

have never been surfed before. 


Sitting astride the ancient monsoon 

trade routes between China and 

India, the Andaman Islands first 

appeared in our historical records 

during the 2nd Century BC. From 

the earliest recorded times the 

Andamans were infamous for the ferocious, cannibalistic 

pygmies who inhabited the islands. 

Bizarrely the inhabitant’s themselves led to 

the islands being named the “Andaman” Islands. 

The small stature of the pygmies and their tradition 

of wearing trailing grass skirts that resembled 

a monkey’s tail led to the belief in surrounding 

countries that these islands were inhabited by 

devotees of the Hindu monkey god “Handuman”. 

This resulted in the people being known as the 

“Handuman people” which ultimately gave rise 

to the name “Andaman Islands”. 

With the Andaman Islands’ strategic position 

directly across the major monsoon trade routes 

in the Bay of Bengal and with an abundance 

of fresh water and wildlife, it is very surprising 

that the Andaman Islands were not colonized or 

settled in ancient times by India, China or Siam. 

Perhaps the fearsome reputation of the inhabitants 

discouraged visitors. It is also likely that 

the pirates, who used the Andaman Islands as a 

base to attack merchant shipping in the Bay of 

Bengal, exaggerated the tales of cannibals and 

warlike tribes to keep competitors and authorities 

away. 

The descendents of these ferocious negroid 

pygmies are still there today, although they are 

somewhat friendlier than their reputation would 

suggest. Amazingly these tribes still live a traditional 

hunter-gatherer existence in tracts of 

Andaman jungle that have been set aside for 

them. 

The only warlike tribe today is the Sentinelese 

who inhabit a tiny isolated island called North 

Sentinel. This island is roughly circular with a 

diameter of only 4 miles. Completely surrounded 

by fringing coral reef and deep ocean, the 

Sentinelese live out their lives in complete isolation 

from the outside world. Following the Indian 

Ocean tsunami in December 2004, the Indian 

authorities sent a military helicopter to North 

Sentinel island to check on the Sentinelese. The 

helicopter returned to Port Blair with several 

arrows embedded in the underside of the fuselage. 

The message was clear: “We are fine, just 

leave us alone!” 

In 2001 we ran a charter in the Andaman 

Islands for a UNDP sponsored scientific survey of 

the surrounding coral reefs. During this survey 3 

new species of coral were discovered in a survey 

that encompassed hundreds of miles of pristine 

reef and a unique and intact underwater ecosystem. 

Clearly there was much to protect. The 

Andamans was duly declared a World Heritage 

Site in 2002. 

The Andaman Islands are difficult to get to, 

which keeps them well off the tourist trail. There 

are only 2 flights per day (one from Kolkota and 

one from Chennai on the Indian mainland) into 

Port Blair which is the administrative centre for 

the islands. There are no international flights into 

Port Blair, except the occasional private jet. 

Port Blair is a quaint, colonial, Indian town 

that looks like it has been dragged from the 1930s 

into the 21st Century. Three-wheeler auto rickshaws 

weave between the more sedate “Lincoln 

Ambassador” taxis, surrounded by the constant 

cacophony of sounds and colors of a busy Indian 

market town. An Indian policeman dressed in 

khaki uniform and a white pith helmet stands at 

each road intersection, somehow managing the 

seemingly suicidal task of directing the traffic. 

Holy cows, beautifully attired with jewellery and 

painted horns, stroll unconcernedly along the 

streets ignoring both the traffic and the policemen. 

Tourism is very much in its infancy in the 

Andaman Islands. There are only a tiny handful 

of yachts that offer charters in this incredibly 

remote area. With almost no tourists and hardly 

any fishing fleet we have on occasion spent up 

to a month in the Andamans without ever seeing 

another boat or person. This is a truly unique 

SV Ilala 

SV Ilala a 63ft cutter rigged sloop which has 

been chartering in this area for 8 years. Ilala 

offers sailing, scuba diving, kayaking and surfing 

adventure trips. www.ilala.net 

MV Taipan IV 

MV Taipan IV A 64ft luxury motor yacht which is 

available for charter in the Andaman Islands. 



ASIA 

“This is a truly 

unique charter 

destination for 

adventurous 

people who 

really want to 

escape from 

the modern 

world” 

charter destination for adventurous people who 

really want to escape from the modern world for 

a while. 

The Andaman Islands have never been commercially 

fished. As a result the fish life is truly 

incredible. As the fish in this area generally die 

of old age rather than being caught, they grow to 

a remarkable size. It is quite a strange feeling to 

be regularly swimming with fish that are much 

larger than you. 

I have run out of superlatives to describe the 

fishing in this area. During a recent trip to the 

Andamans we went fishing on most days from 

our dinghy. We would set off from the yacht in the 

evening trolling lures behind the dinghy along the 

reef edge. On occasions we actually managed to 

travel up to 300m without catching a fish! 

Of all the islands in the Andamans the remote 

volcano islands of Barren and Narcondum are 

unique. Located about 100 miles to the east of the 

main Andaman Islands, these volcanic islands rise 

almost vertically from ocean depths of more than 

2000m. Narcondum is a long-extinct volcano. 

Barren is very much live with spectacular lava 

flows into the sea. Diving and snorkeling around 

these islands is an unforgettable experience. At 

Barren island, the underwater landscape has a 

backdrop of black volcanic ash. Against this matte 

black background the normally vibrant colors of 

the coral and reef fish seem almost psychedelic. 

It is essential to plan to visit the Andamans 

between December and May. December to the 

end of February is the best time for sailing in the 

Andamans with warm, sunny conditions and a 

reliable 20 knots of wind. March and April have 

little wind and are the best months for diving 

and snorkeling – this is also the time of year 

when the migratory whales visit the Andamans. 

April is the best month for surfing with large 

swell from the south-west that gives spectacular 

breaks along the west coast. 

From May to December the Andamans is 

effectively closed with strong winds, very rough 

sea conditions and continuous torrential rain. Y V C 

Holy Cows 

Beautifully attired with jewellery and painted 

horns stroll unconcernedly along the streets 

ignoring both the traffic and the policemen. 

World-Class Fishing 

The fish in this area generally die of old age rather 

than being caught, so the ones caught tend to be a 

remarkable size. 


Paul Johnson is the owner of Ilala Yacht Charters which 

offers adventure sailing, diving and kayaking holidays in 

the Andaman Islands. All photos courtesy of Ilala Yacht 

Charters. ilala@ilala.net 

ilala@ilala.net 

Information 

Emerald Yacht is a US based booking agency 

that offers two superb yachts for charter 

in the remote Mergui Archipelago. Contact 

Skip Mansfield for further details. Email: 

skipmansfield@compuserve.com 

Tel: +1 941 639 4442 



 

 

 



Cruising the 

Camargue 

WRITTEN BY 

CAPTAIN MICHAEL HOWORTH 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY 

FRANCES HOWORTH 

The black pearl 

of the Med 

Cruising the canals of the Camargue in 

the South of France is to sample a vacation 

experience like no other, as you enjoy 

the local food and wine together with the 

flexibility, freedom and fun that only a self- 

catering yacht vacation can offer. 


The Camargue is one of the most 

remarkable regions in Southern 

France, combining untamed countryside 

with traditional villages, 

walled crusader towns, modern 

resorts, delightful fishing ports and 

the medieval walled city of Agde, often called the 

‘black pearl of the Mediterranean.’ At Sete stands 

the entrance to the spectacular Great Sea Lake of 

Etang du Thau; the many fishing ports here make 

it impossible not to stop and sample some seafood 

delicacies. 

The Canal du Rhone a Sete provides effortless 

cruising between Beaucaire and Sete, then 

into the Great Lake. Chartering a yacht here is an 

unhurried affair, where crews spend a few hours 

sunbathing on a nearby Mediterranean beach, or 

visiting one of the bustling fishing ports to taste 

the local delicacies. 

The Camargue is a triangular delta in the south 

of France covering 140,000 hectares. It’s made up 

of wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt marshes 

,which are a major centre for salt production, 

producing up to 15,000 tons a day at harvest-time. 

The area provides a home for a unique collection 

of flora, including Tamarisk and Narcissi. The 

fauna includes egrets and ibises so it is no wonder 

it is the most important wetlands site in the 

Mediterranean as such and attracts over one million 

visitors a year. Many come to see the famous 

white horses and the pink flamingos, which have 

become the symbol of the area which, in 1970, 

was granted National Park status. People visit the 

Reserve between April and November to enjoy the 

beach, go bird watching or attend some of the cultural 

events specific to the area, such as the gypsy 

pilgrimage. Tourists can rent horses, go on ‘safari’ 

in a four-wheel drive vehicle, and use the beaches 

at Arles, Beauduc and Les Saintes or; like us, take 

a boat trip through the area at a leisurely pace. 

Traveling the canals of the south of France by 

yacht is a cross between caravanning and walking 

in the countryside. That said, I do not think I have 

enjoyed my days afloat recently quite as much as 

I did when motoring the canals of the Camargue 

aboard a 42 foot Magnifique chartered through 

Connoisseur Afloat. We boarded our craft at the 

company’s base in Beaucaire not so very far from 

Nimes. Well-informed and happy-to-please shorebased 

crews quickly and efficiently went through 

the ropes and asked if I had any yacht handling 

experience. Once I understood that there was 

only one propeller, grasped the fact that there was 

no need for a compass, or a speed log, I was well 

away, and after a concerted effort by my crew to 

empty the shelves of the nearby supermarket, we 

set off on what was our very first canal experience. 

The boat is surprisingly well equipped with air 

conditioning, two steering positions, and a useful 

bow thruster and my only significant observation 

would be that it would have been nice to have a 

small generator or an inverter for charging the 

batteries of computers and cameras for those stupid 

enough to work rather than enjoy the cruising 

experience. 

Our trip was a one-way journey from 

Beaucaire to Marseillan, sailing along; first the 

Canal du Rhône à Sète that meanders through 

the Camargue then, across the Etang de Thau a 

large shallow salt lake, before entering the Canal 

du Midi the historic 17th century waterway which 

links the Atlantic with the Mediterranean. Each 

of these areas would offer spectacularly different 

scenery and experiences, so we planned meticulously 

beforehand to enjoy them all to the full 

during trip. 

Noily Prat 

The bottles are of the Vermouth called Noily Prat 

which is made in the town of Marseillan. 




Mèze 

cafes, shops and restaurants inside the picturesque 

harbor. 

General Specifications 

Type: .............................Magnifique 8+2 

LOA: ....................................14.5 Metres 

Beam: ................................. 4.10 Metres 

Draught: ....................................1 Metre 

Height above water: ...........2.2 Metres 

Builders: ................ Porter & Haylett Ltd 

Wroxham England 

Engine: ............................... 60 hp Nanni 

(marinised Mercedes Block) 

Bowthruster: ...... 8 hp electric powered 

Fuel Capacity: ....................... 350 Litres 

Fuel Consumption: ...2.5 litres per hour 

Fresh water capacity: ..........1000 litres 

Berths: ..8 fixed 2 converted from sofas 

Speed: ........................................8 knots 

Steering positions: ..............................2 

Air conditioning: ...... Forward and after 

sleeping cabins 

Heating: ................ Webasto throughout 

Our boat was clean and both comfortable and 

well maintained. How crowded she would be if she 

carried her full complement of ten, I dread to think, 

but several passing yachts clearly proved us wrong 

and I can only suggest that their crews ate ashore a 

good deal and showered in facilities provided at marinas. 

Our reduced complement found the yacht very 

comfortable and my feeling is that a crew of between 

four and eight on board is, perhaps, the ideal number. 

Her spacious sun deck is great for eating al fresco and 

she comes with all the equipment you might need 

including ample refrigeration space. 

Our first stop was Saint Gilles, a town known 

as the gateway to the Camargue, famous for its 

bulls and white horses. The town is named after a 

nobleman that became a hermit and took refuge 

here in the 8th century. His exemplary life has 

since inspired generations of Catholics who built 

an abbey here in the 12th century in his honor. The 

Lonely Planet Guide suggests, rather quaintly, that 

shortly after that the towns candle went out, and 

perhaps they are right! Even so, there are snatches 

of culture dating back to Roman times and a house 

where Pope Clement IV is said to have been born. 

Moving on we passed through low wetlands 

the banks of our canal stacked high with cut 

phragmite reeds or sagno drying in the sunshine 

as they wait their turn to become thatched roofs of 

the future. Less than twenty local men, Sagneurs, 

now retain the hereditary right to harvest these 

reeds and do so traditionally, cutting and turning 

them all by hand. Swallows and egrets dive 

bomb the canal; as we motor on turtles cling to 

waterside tree roots, basking in the sunshine, and 

we were even lucky enough to spot small water 

rats called Coipu. Marshes have been turned into 

rice paddy fields in a traditional checkerboard 

pattern. Fields on slightly more solid ground are 

the grazing homes to the Camargue bulls, whose 

narrow foreheads and dark grey horns sit above 

alert eyes that watch as canal boats cruise on by. 

Cowboy like horsemen, sitting on special saddles 

astride white stallions, charge about through shallow 

water as they round them up and move them 

to pastures new. In the evenings, the sky can turn 

almost pink, as flocks of pretty flamingos seek out 

their roosts for their night-time resting. 

We arrived in Aigues-Mortes, a medieval walled 

Crusader town whose ramparts today are as robust 

as ever they were. The town sits stranded nearly four 

miles from the sea. It was built by Louis IX as a port 

and remains a symbol of human obstinacy because 

it was clearly silted up before it was ever completed 

and, despite it being the salt capital of the Camargue, 

became a virtual backwater almost as soon as it was 

completed. It is perhaps because of this that the 

town is so perfectly intact today. Henry James writing 

100 years ago said the town was hardly alive but 

was neatly embalmed. I doubt he would say that 

today as 130,000 tourists flock there each year. They 

come to do as we did, walk the near mile of solid 

stone ramparts that surround the town that is dominated 

by the Tour Constance, which was the original 

ports lighthouse and subsequently served as a prison, 

which is not surprising given that its walls are up 

to 20 feet thick. That evening we ate under the stars, 

taking dinner at one of the many restaurants that 

fill the town square. Next morning, Sunday, it was 

market day and we took full advantage of the edible 

goodies on sale, walking back to the boat with our 

newly purchased baskets bursting at the seams. 

The scenery changed again and the canal 

passed through stonewall banks with water either 

side of the walls. It was here that the waterway runs 

parallel with the sea and at one point, close to the 

Abbey de Maguelonne we stopped for lunch, mooring 

alongside the towpath and taking our bicycles 

to the beach and abbey. That evening with what 

can only be described by the skipper as immaculate 

planning and by his crew as a sheer fluke, we 

arrived in Frontignan just as the bridge made the 

last of its three daily openings, and passed into the 

town made famous by producing 2 million bottles 

of Muscat, the sweet wine, every year. 

Shortly after leaving town the next day we 

left the Canal du Rhône à Sète and entered the 

Etang. This shallow sea lake is heavily farmed by 

oystermen, producing tons of the shelled aphrodisiac 

in numbers to equal the production of 

northern France. We visited the ports of Mèze 

and Marseillan, choosing to spend the night in 

the latter. It is here that Noilly Prat, the vermouth, 

is made and the factory offers a fascinating tour 

of inspection where guides explain the complex, 

time-consuming process behind the mixing and 

blending that goes on to produce the quintessen- 


tial aperitif. We feasted on local oysters that night 

and I have an observation to make to would-be 

oyster openers: potato peelers are poor substitutes 

for a proper oyster knife! We also enjoyed 

La Tielle, or squid pie, a local specialty made with 

bread dough filled with baby octopus in a spicy 

tomato sauce, which was quite delicious. 

It did not take very long the next day for us to 

cross the final stretch of lake and enter the Canal 

du Midi or Riquets Ditch, as the less reverend 

tend to call it. Our trip would take us along the 

canal through the vineyards of Langudoc towards 

Homps, but that is another story for another issue. 

For our crew, the highpoints of the trip included 

our visit to Aigues-Mortes, the historic sights, 

and the Sunday open market. The wildlife of the 

Camargue was outstanding with the horses, cattle, 

and pretty flamingos. Because we are foodies, 

we adored the markets selling local produce and 

particularly enjoyed our tour of the Noilly Pratt 

factory in Marseillan. Will we be back Most certainly, 

I can think of no better way of combining 

the love of boating with the sheer joy of walking in 

the countryside and eating and drinking its produce. 

It is the perfect family holiday and I would 

recommend it and Connoisseur, the company 

that runs the boats so well, to everyone. Y V C 

About the Writer and Photographer 

Frances & Michael Howorth have been travelling 

together for the last 25 years, initially working aboard 

cruise liners and then as crew aboard luxury private 

and charter yachts. Latterly their trips have been confined 

to joint photojournalistic assignments aboard 

ships and yachts. Their voyages of discovery have 

taken them to Africa, North and South America, the 

Caribbean, the Mediterranean, India, and a plethora of 

islands in between with such diversity as to include 

Tristan de Cunha, St Helena, and the Maldive Islands. 

frh@thehoworths.com 

Information 




More Information 

Travel 

Connoisseur bases are conviently located within a reasonable distance from an airport. Nimes 

Montepellier and Perpignan are all served by budget airlines operating out of the UK. Marseilles is 

served by Air France and British Airways. There are smaller airports at Béziers and Carcassonne. 

Charter Costs 

Our trip took place in May when the cost of this boat was priced at €2365 for a week. It rises to 

€3700 per week at the height of the season. The only boat based extras is the cost of the fuel and 

this is charged at €6 per hour of engine time used and deducted from the fuel deposit paid at time 

of taking the boat. In ten days we clocked up 42 hours of use. A one way supplement of €100 is 

charged and both base car parking and hire of bicycles must be allowed for if required. Marinas 

charge very little, seldom more than €25 per night and generally include water and electricity, but 

truthfully many ports are free as is the towpath. Why pay if you do not need to 

Charts, Pilots & Guides 

There is a guidebook on board each boat, which truthfully is a little out of date, still quoting, for 

example, marina fees in Francs long after the euro became the currency of France. We used the 

much lauded multi lingual Midi Camargue Waterway Guide published in France by Éditions du Breil 

available on the internet, in better nautical bookshops or direct from Connosisseur at time of booking. 

My advice is to buy it as early it is a perfect planning tool and invaluable if you want to get the 

most out of the holiday trip. 

Paperwork 

Very little is needed and what there can will be handled by the base staff who know all the 

ropes and hand it all over at the time of the boat briefing. If using credit cards in France it is 

sometimes useful to carry a photo ID. 

Weather 

It was very pleasant in early May and whilst we confess we did not utilise the air conditioning 

we own up to firing up the webasto central heating on a couple of damp evenings. With the 

heat of the summer time will come crowds, more boats and longer passage times! 

www.connoisseurafloat.com 

Camargue, famous for its bulls and white horses 



YACHT PROFILE 

Aboard for an 

unforgettable, 

ultra-chic 

charter 

experience 

Super Yacht 

My Iris 

PHOTO: COURTESY MARK ARMSTRONG WWW.ARMSTRONGADVERTISING.COM 

Ovid, Homer, and other poets of great and 

ancient repute agree that the goddess Iris 

bore messages from celestial powers and 

delivered them to mortals. They say that in 

transit between heaven and earth, she left 

behind her footprint, a rainbow. The superyacht 

My Iris is fittingly named, as she provides 

a beauteous bridge from the quotidian 

to the divine. 

WRITTEN BY SCOTT ROSE 

Originally built in 2003 by Trinity Yachts 

and named Seahawk, the vessel was refitted 

in 2005 and christened My Iris. The 

original designer was Claudette Bonville while 

Marc Thee oversaw the refit. Many of the original 

features were retained, and indeed, both designers 

continue giving input for new interior touches. 

Both act in fulfillment of the owner’s exquisite 

good taste. 

My Iris is 150-feet long with a 28-foot beam 

and an 8-foot draft. Her hull and superstructure 

are aluminum, while her engines, generators, stabilizers 

and other seagoing essentials are of the 

very finest. Charter guests will not want for diversionary 

playthings; My Iris stores a 19-foot Nautica 

tender, two kayaks, complete professional-level 

scuba gear for four, water skis, snorkel gear, fishing 

gear, and the enticing list goes on. 

The most seductive feature of My Iris, though, 

is without question her soothing if jaw-dropping 

interior design. Many yacht interiors have a distinctly 

masculine or feminine feel, but that of My 

Iris avoids those leanings to make all who enter 

comfortable. As a matter of fact, comfort of every 

sort was so important to the owner that she mandated 

a look of “barefoot elegance,” the creation of 

glamorous spaces conducive to stylish informality. 

Because the owner wanted to be able to hold festive 

parties spread over various areas, an emphasis 

was placed on achieving flow from space to space. 

Marc Thee says: “Soft but dramatic backgrounds 

were our goal. We accomplished this by choosing 

clean classic lines, soft blues and peachy neutrals 

as the common colorations.” 

Cameron Zentz of Marc-Michaels Interior 

Design, Inc. affirms that the owner was conscientiously 

involved in the refit process. Beyond 

wanting to achieve “barefoot elegance,” she wanted 

and procured the finest custom furnishings 

and fabrics. The owner also envisioned a gentle 

color palette marked by watery blues, creams, and 

peaches to convey a spirit of relaxation. Visual 

unity was assured throughout My Iris by the frequent 

repetition of subtle tonal nuances. 

In the main salon one finds the same sumptuous 

mahogany wood used throughout the yacht. 

Champagne-toned silk draperies by Schumacher 

with a “Fascination Seaside” accent by Rodolph 

grace the windows. The bar has quilted-leather 

bar stools, while the custom-made sectional 

is magnificently complemented by a custommade 

coffee table in macassar ebony with walnut 

accents. On the other side of the coffee table from 

the sectional are two custom-made, extra-large 

swivel bucket chairs in a gray paisley gaufrage 

leather. The lovely J. Robbins Scott pillows on the 


sectional are done in silk tapis with an ice-blue 

ribbon fringe. 

George Schipper is the master chef aboard My 

Iris. I asked him about the outfitting of the galley 

and he told me that it is supplied with every 

manner of equipment: a full double oven, a salamander, 

a full grill, a stove with six burners and a 

flat top as well as many first-class food processors, 

mixers, and molds. Yet he also made a statement 

that will seem particularly auspicious to all who 

relish gourmand preparations. “The most important 

tool in any kitchen is the chef’s heart. When 

the chef has his heart in his work, as I do in mine, 

that passion is evident in the fine results served 

from his kitchen.” 

Chef Schipper certainly knows how to make 

a diner’s mouth water. Asked to name two of his 

most elegant specialties, he says: “An appetizer 

of a basil-infused corn broth over a Pacific white 

prawn gallette served with crispy shallot and fresh 

baby corn. And a main platter consisting of a 

spinach tian in a ginger-soy mirin sauce, and 

grilled portabella mushrooms and grilled yellow 

heirloom tomatoes around a coriander-crusted 

loin of lamb.” He adds with pride that he does not 

often repeat himself. “I start off with an outline 

of what I’m aiming for and as the day progresses, 

the dish evolves.” Chef Schipper feels that besides 

fine ingredients and a strong conception, the 

success of a preparation depends on timing and 

coordination. 

His scrumptious cuisine may be served in 

any of My Iris’s gracious dining areas. The main 

dining salon boasts a custom, hand-cut marble 

mosaic floor border by New World Ceramic, 

Mosaic and Stone of Orlando. The central carpeting 

is inlaid to the mosaic. A fine wood dining 

table is surrounded by Italian scroll-back chairs, 

which the present owner had reupholstered in a 

blue-topaz-gold fabric known as “Florian Silk.” 

The same Schumacher/Rodolph window-dressings 

employed in the main salon adorn the dining 

salon. 

Aft of the main salon, meanwhile, is the aft 

deck dining area, exceedingly consistent with the 

concept of “barefoot elegance.” Teak chairs with 

a creamy waffle fabric and a custom banquette 

provide plush seating while the color scheme 

of Wedgwood blues and light champagne tones 

soothes the eye. Off the sky lounge is the upper 

aft deck dining area, where rattan chairs in a wonderful 

rich brown are upholstered in a beautiful 

cream chenille with a taupe tape border. 

Chef Schipper reports that in the past, he has 

had flown into St. Lucia in the Caribbean delicacies 

such as fresh frogs legs and giant guey duc 

clams. Asked what he would prepare if requested 

to include cognac as an ingredient in a dish, he 

said: “Ah ha! I love this question. I would make 

a foie gras, apple and white-truffle terrine with 

baby frissé, marinating and poaching the terrine 

in Louis XIII Grand Champagne Cognac and using 

the run-off to make a cognac-caper vinaigrette.” 

One could cry from reading the description without 

being presented with the dish. 

Each of My Iris’s five staterooms has an en 

suite bath. The Master Stateroom is favorable to 

deep, restful sleep. The color palette is a calming 

blend of praline, cream, platinum, and tones 

from the champagne family. The bed is dressed 

in silk and printed velvets. Most of the fabrics 

are from the acclaimed designer Nancy Corzine; 

they include the coverlet, which is of Ms. Corzine’s 

“Empire Medallion” fabric. Also present in the 

Master Stateroom is a gorgeous, highly-stylized 

desk made of a lacquered, tiger’s eye maple. The 

appreciative eye will notice that My Iris sports 

many a sublime throw pillow. The owner is attentive 

to the design scheme down to the smallest 

detail; as happens, Marc Thee personally designed 

many of the remarkable pillows seen throughout 

the yacht. 

Everywhere aboard are opulent details worthy 

of the HGTV show Extreme Yachts. My Iris was 

in truth recently shown on that program. There 

is a custom-made, slant-legged game table with 

24-karat gold inlay and 24-karat gold capped feet. 

The fly bridge Jacuzzi is surrounded by the most 

inviting, custom-made sunpads, while the teak 

floor of the fly bridge is topped by teak chaises in a 

“Spangle Sapphire” chenille with white borders, a 

My Iris 

150-feet long with a 28-foot beam and an 8-foot draft. 

Her hull and superstructure are aluminum, while her 

engines, generators, stabilizers and other seagoing 

essentials are of the very finest. 




YACHT PROFILE 

“Everywhere 

aboard are 

opulent details 

worthy of the 

HGTV show 

‘Extreme Yachts’ 

My Iris was in 

truth recently 

shown on that 

program” 

broad, light bright blue center stripe and graceful 

white skirts. 

Gillian Gething, RSA is the head stewardess 

for My Iris. She informs that there are various Jay 

Strongwater and Lalique pieces featured on board, 

and that with entertainment being a high priority, 

she selects daily from an array of table linens and 

accessories, including many eye-catching items 

from Neiman Marcus’s Kim Seybert Collection. 

Tableware offerings include the elegance personified 

that are Christofle and Lennox. “For myself,” 

says Gillian, “working onboard My Iris has been 

a wonderful experience through which I have 

learned a tremendous amount, and both been to 

amazing places and met delightful people.” 

Gillian’s satisfaction in her work doubtless 

stems from Captain Mike O’Neill’s thoughtful 

and results-getting management style. Asked to 

describe it, he says: “I believe that I am only as 

successful as the people I surround myself with. 

Thus I make every effort when hiring crew to find 

the best and most professional folks available, and 

then look after them as best I can to keep them 

happy. Of equal importance, I try to give each 

crewmember as much latitude as possible, allowing 

each person to really show off their talents and 

take pride in their work. I believe that in this way, 

charter guests are guaranteed a fantastic, professional, 

yet personal experience aboard My Iris.” 

Captain O’Neill fairly beams when describing 

the entertainment options available aboard 

My Iris. “Electronics upgrades have been completed 

in the last six months in order to keep My 

Iris state-of-the-art. The DVD server and internet 

service are second to none. Our “Kaleidescape” 

central DVD server is accessible from all guest 

cabins and public areas. This makes it possible for 

a guest to make a selection from an on-demand 

library of more than 600 movies and 400 CDs 

by means of a Crestron touch screen remote 

and enjoy the selected item virtually anywhere 

aboard. It’s a neat trick that people can watch 

the same movie from different locations independently. 

Additionally, I-Pod receptacles were 

recently added at every location so guests can 

plug in their personal devices and listen to their 

own music. Each server location has also been 

equipped with independent satellite TV receivers. 

As regards internet service, we have added a VSAT 

satellite system allowing all guests unlimited high 

speed internet access from their laptops via our 

onboard Wi-Fi system. Even when we are cruising 

far off-shore, everybody enjoys continuous internet 

access.” 

The My Iris pilothouse is opulently appointed 

and set up for guests to enjoy this key element 

of the yachting experience. Behind a specialpurpose 

coffee table, gaufrage leather upholsters 

a comfy banquette placed just far enough away 

from the controls to offer a prime viewing of them. 

Captain O’Neill remarks: “This is a great place for 

guests to sit, have a cup of coffee or a snack and 

watch the world go by from the crew’s vantage 

point.” 

Iris has been a Greek goddess and an opera by 

Pietro Mascagni while Irises have been depicted in 

paintings by Vincent Van Gogh. The super-yacht My 

Iris continues the tradition of applying the appellation 

to a thing of great beauty. It is no exaggeration 

to call My Iris one of the finest flowerings in the noble 

world of yacht building and design. Y V C 

My Iris Information courtesy of Fraser Yachts 

www.fraseryachts.com 


Scott Rose attended Harvard University at Master’s level. 

He writes frequently on luxury markets and travel. His 

work has appeared in such prestigious venues as Bon 

Appetit and Power magazines. scottcaliente@earthlink.net 

Information 






LUXURY GOODS 

2006 

Porsche Carrera 

REVIEW BY JOSH MAX 

4 Coupe 

Hop 

behind the wheel, turn the key, rev the engine, throw it into first and you’re immediately 

reminded of why Porsche remains the ultimate jewel in the crown of sports car 

lovers. You don’t drive the Carrera so much as wear it like a finely tailored suit. The crest 

on the steering wheel seems to smile up at you and whisper “faster, faster, faster”. And 

faster you go as you cruise, turn, downshift, accelerate and watch the needle inch further 

to the right. 

2006 Porsche Carrera 4 Coupe Specs 

Price: .................$77,100 ($82,365 as tested) 

Horsepower/torque: .......... 325 hp/273 lb-ft 

0-60: ........................................... 4.6 seconds 

Top speed: ...................................... 179 MPH 

Gas: ................................18 city, 26 highway 

Miles driven: ............................................290 

Our test took us through winding country 

roads as well as city streets; each was a sublime 

pleasure. The Carrera hugs the road 

with an iron grip, and its growl practically shakes 

the leaves from the trees. Two engine variations are 

now available: our tester and the Carrera 4S with 

its 355 hp power plant. An optional Sport Chrono 

Plus package rolls out for ’06. A “Lapis Blue” metallic 

finish is an $825 option; also available are wheel 

caps with color crest ($185), Bi-Xenon headlamp 

package ($1090), cocoa floor mats ($115), heated 

front seats ($480) self-dimming mirrors ($385) and 

a host of other goodies. Safety-wise, dual front 

airbags and a Porsche Stability Management (PSM) 

system, optimized for shorter stopping distances 

and greater control in slippery conditions, are standard, 

as are anti-lock brakes and an integrated third 

brake light in the rear. 

Gripes are few. The trunk’s small, making 

packing for long trips challenging unless you’re 

going solo. Also, the CD player’s digital readout 

moves at a glacier’s pace as you scroll forward or 

backward to find your favorite songs. Overall, 

though, this is a more-than-worthy sports car 

that’ll put a smile on your face every time you rev 

it. 

Interior: An electric sliding roof, one-touch 

power windows and a color PC display with nav 

system capability plants the Carrera squarely 

in the 21st century; flawless clutch/accelerator 

combo is all classic Porsche. It’s all upscale 

leather and thus a feast for your eyes, nose and 

posterior, though a tight fit for the big and tall. 

Exterior: Smoothly merged egg-shaped flanks 

and curvy yet hunky quarter panels are signature, 

flashy Porsche. Engine’s in the rear and the 

trunk’s up front, opening with a push of the button 

on your fob. Y V C 



NORTHERN EUROPE 

Spirit of 

The Highlands 

Captain Klaüs Muller Inverary Castle The Locals 

Cruising 

the lochs 

of Western 

Scotland 

“My desire is always to be here” sang Sir Paul McCartney in his tribute to the Mull of 

Kintyre, and the Western Highlands have inspired the same loyalty in many who have come 

to know and love this secluded coast. The Scottish landscape is a theatre where the hills 

themselves appear to move in the shifting light, one minute swathed in cloud, the next a 

misty veil of sunlight, and later against a piercing blue sky the brilliant sunshine bouncing 

off fresh snow on the hilltops. 


One of the first things to strike 

you here is the lack of clutter; 

this is scenery empty of the 

flotsam and jetsam of modern 

civilization. Instead it’s full of 

natural wonders, creating an 

impressionist canvas that evolves with the seasons 

as well as the weather. In autumn, robes of purple 

heather drape the hillsides, crowned with golden 

bracken and birch. Winter russets, ochres and 

deep hookers greens are dusted with icing sugar 

snow before the emerald grass of spring appears, 

splashed with bright daffodils, wild primroses and 

carpets of bluebells. Then in early summer darkness 

hardly falls, the distant glow of the midnight 

sun lights the horizon and gleams on the white 

sand beaches. In his book Ring of Bright Water 

author Gavin Maxwell describes perfectly the 

visitor’s dilemma on getting his first view across 

the coast: “The landscape and seascape that lay 

spread before me was of such beauty that I had no 

room for it all at once...” 

Places so beautiful rarely remain that way, but 

the Western Highlands have escaped because they 

are so difficult to reach. No roads existed before 

the 18th century and the highlanders struggled 

for survival on land of such poor agricultural 

value. Their solution was to raid the lowland farms 

before disappearing back into the hills, where 

they remained out of reach of the law. Such inaccessibility 

rendered them beyond the grasp of the 

British government, until the first roads were built 

by the army in order to gain control. Before then, 

the only successful conquerors were the Vikings, 

who arrived by sea in their longships and were 

able to penetrate deep into the hills by rowing up 

the long fingers of the lochs. 

Even today, this is a frustrating place to visit 

in a vehicle because one is faced with long road 

journeys to cover relatively small distances as the 

crow flies; it’s still better conquered from the sea. 

We were therefore thrilled to receive an invitation 

from the owners of a rather characterful little ship 

called Fyne Spirit, which promises travelers the 

opportunity to do just that. On a bright and bracing 

spring day we were greeted at Glasgow airport 

by Captain Klaüs Muller and Ship’s Purser Nadine 

Ruts. Klaus and Nadine have been in charge of 

Fyne Spirit’s conversion from a British Navy vessel 

and are responsible for her forthcoming launch at 

the start of the 2006 summer season. 

Chosen because she is specifically suited to 

cruising the Scottish lochs, Fyne Spirit’s sturdy build 

and size (110ft) give her access into the far reaches 

of the lochs and many deserted anchorages – and I 

really do mean deserted, rather than shared with a 

bunch of other hopefuls! Modifications have been 

made to allow for a spacious saloon with large 

windows to either side, enabling guests to enjoy 

the majestic panoramas in all weather conditions. 

And I’m quite serious when I say that Scotland 

looks even more dramatic in the rain than it does 

in the sunshine. A modern motor yacht would 

be at odds in this environment – not only in 

appearance but in sheer practicality. Fyne Spirit 

is at home in her surroundings, dependable and 

comfortable she embodies the traditional values 

of the Scots. There’s no need to rush about here; 

sit back and enjoy the ever-changing view, savor 

the sense of isolation, absorb the atmosphere of 

the Highlands. 

Previously Captain of the well-known luxury 

cruising yacht Star Clipper, Klaus has lived in 

Scotland for over fifteen years. Although he is 

German by origin, you’ll rarely meet a more naturalized 

Scot – he’s the first German I’ve ever heard 

regularly use the word “Aye” (‘yes’ in Scottish 

dialect). He even plays the bagpipes! Klaus has 

made his own home in Fyne Spirit’s home port 

of Inverary and is a well-known local ‘celebrity’, 

having become an integral part of the local community. 

Wherever Klaus accompanied us, people 

stopped to greet him and enquire about when 

Fyne Spirit would be arriving from the shipyard 

in Glasgow, where she is in the final stages of her 

transformation. The result is that Fyne Spirit is 

also a ‘local’, and thus inspires a special enthusiasm 

amongst the inhabitants that guests will 

sense immediately. You can expect a hearty welcome 

which includes being piped aboard by the 

local schoolchildren, who are accomplished pipers 

despite the fact that their instruments rather 

dwarf them in scale. 

Inverary is situated at the head of Loch Fyne 

in the county of Argyll. An orderly gathering of 

whitewashed Georgian houses, it sits a short but 

respectful distance from the imposing seat of 

the famous Campbell Clan, Inverary Castle. The 

Campbells arrived in Argyll in the 13th century 

and played a leading role in Scottish history. 

Constantly feuding with the Macdonalds, they 

supported the British army against the Jacobite 

rebellion in the 18th century, a loyalty that was 

rewarded with Dukedom. The 8th Duke married 

Queen Victoria’s daughter, Princess Louise and, as 

Master of the Royal Household, the present Duke 

will always be seen at the Queen’s side when she 

attends an official function in Scotland. 

Klaus guided us around the castle personally, 

as he has an expert knowledge of local history. 

He was quick to point out that the vast range of 

fearsome armory on display is not the cache of 

an enthusiastic collector. It was in fact kept at the 

castle in readiness for war, the weapons being 

handed out for use by the Clansmen as and when 

required for battle. Rows of vicious lances line the 

walls of the atrium, many with their original tassels 

still attached just below the blade. Their gruesome, 

if practical, task was to staunch the blood 

of the victims in order to prevent it running down 

the wooden handle of the lance and making it too 

slippery to hold - another reason there weren’t too 

many visitors in the past! The flintlocks also on 

display were used at the battle of Culloden, from 

which the defeated Bonnie Prince Charlie fled in 

1746, heralding final victory for the Hanoverian 

Inverary 

An orderly gathering of whitewashed Georgian 

houses, it sits a short but respectful distance from the 

imposing seat of the famous Campbell Clan, Inverary 

Castle. 

Fyne Spirit 

At home in her surroundings, dependable and comfortable 

she embodies the traditional values of the Scots 

WRITTEN AND PHOTGRAPHED BY 

MICHELLE BLORE AND ALAN OLIVER 



NORTHERN EUROPE 

“ Taking a Yacht 

Charter means 

you can avoid 

the usual necessity 

of long 

hours on the 

road, as well 

as the constant 

packing and 

unpacking” 

Information 

Whisky Store 

Fyne Spirit charters for up to 12 guests at 

$35,000.00 per week, or you may book on a 

per cabin basis from $2,800.00 per person, per 

week. Contact: Dream Sailing, +33 664 037020 

info@dreamsailing.com www.dreamsailing.com 

King George III over the Jacobites, and resulting in 

the British monarchy of today. 

Thankfully, a Scottish welcome now has a 

different meaning. The history may have been 

bloody and the weather unpredictable, but this 

is more than made up for by the warmth of the 

Scottish people. Indeed, many of the things that 

make Scotland so enjoyable exist because of the 

climate: a blazing hearth, hearty food and, of 

course, Scotch whisky. 

It is impossible to overestimate the importance 

of whisky to this part of the world, both 

economically and culturally. There were once 

as many as thirty-four whisky distilleries just in 

Campbeltown on the Kintyre Peninsula alone, as 

well as many more sprinkled around the coast 

and islands such as Islay, Jura and Skye. The local 

whisky store in Inverary stocks several hundred 

single malts, making it a good place to start a voyage 

of discovery in more ways than one. One of the 

oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland is at Oban, 

where they’ve been making whisky for over 200 

years. The ‘wash’ (a type of weak beer made from 

malted barley) is distilled twice to give the malt its 

unique character and taste, and the two unusually 

small stills reflect the cramped nature of the site. 

This working distillery is still based in its original 

building in the heart of the town, just opposite 

the quayside, making it easy to stow away a few 

bottles as a souvenir. 

Leaving Oban to head west around Mull and 

then north between the islands of Iona and Tiree 

you may well be rewarded with a sighting of minke 

whales, and even killer whales put in an occasional 

appearance. Unlike many places that claim 

whale watching as an activity, here there’s a very 

strong chance you’ll actually see some (about an 

80% likelihood). Be sure to take your binoculars 

as seals, otters, porpoises and dolphins are also 

regulars along the coast and the area is incredibly 

rich in bird life, including razorbills, terns and wild 

geese. For a more sporting diversion, there’s that 

other great Scottish invention: golf. Fyne Spirit’s 

special golf itineraries will allow guests to play on 

a selection of the finest courses within easy reach 

of ports and anchorages, such as the top ranking 

Machrihanish course on the Kintyre Peninsula. 

A friendly little ship like Fyne Spirit is definitely 

the way to experience the Western Highlands of 

Scotland. Life here clings to the coastline because 

the sea has always represented the best, and 

until relatively recently the only, means of access. 

Castles were constructed on the loch shores near 

to beaches in order to keep their boats handy, 

distilleries needed to ship their products to market 

and villages depended upon the fishing for 

their livelihood. Taking to the water means you 

can avoid the usual necessity of long hours on the 

road, as well as the constant packing and unpacking 

that are the bane of the intrepid sightseer. 

Golfing equipment can be safely stowed out of the 

way so you’ll soon forget the burden it normally 

represents when traveling. And with no need to 

drive anywhere, you can safely make the most 

of all those whisky tastings with their generous 

Scottish measures! 

However, having the freedom to cruise the 

lochs and amongst the islands is worth so much 

more than mere practicalities. The hills and glens 

are at their most spectacular when viewed from 

the water; it’s a privileged perspective shared with 

generations of local fishermen and sailors, but 

rarely glimpsed by the steady procession of passing 

tourists. You’ll feel so much more a part of this 

ancient and mystical land when you approach the 

Mull of Kintyre as the Vikings did, with the mist 

rolling in from the sea. Y V C 

About the Writers 

Michelle Blore and Alan Oliver both quit successful 

careers in London to move to the French Riviera. They 

now run Dream Sailing (www.dreamsailing.com) a 

charter brokerage specializing in luxury crewed yachts, 

including their own sailing yacht, DreamCatcher of 

London. alanandmichelle@dreamsailing.com 


LUXURY GOODS 

2006 Harley-Davidson 

VRSCR Street Rod 

REVIEW BY JOSH MAX 

The Harley Davidson Street Rod is a sturdy, righteous motorcycle aimed at bike lovers eyeballing 

those submarine-sized cruisers in the window of their local Harley shop, but who don’t 

feel like negotiating all that tonnage. It’s a cruiser to be sure, but smaller and sportier than 

the usual hog, and you can corner, turn around, back up and dodge potholes as though riding 

a Sportster. Also, unlike the teeth-chattering rides Harleys were previously known for, the 

Street Rod provides a smooth-as-butter experience, with a snorting, guttural engine to match. 

2006 Harley-Davidson VRSCR Specs 

Price: ..................................................$15,495 

Weight: ............................................. 618 lbs. 

Displacement: .................................... 1130cc 

Horsepower: ............................................120 

Torque: ..................... 80 ft. lbs. @ 7000 rpm 

Mileage: .........................47 highway, 37 city 

Miles driven: ............................................140 

Color options: .......Vivid black, black cherry, 

rich sunglo blue, yellow pearl, brandy 

wine sunglo, mirage orange 

Our test took us through upstate New York, 

through twisty forested roads and down 

through urban areas after a solid day of 

riding. Usually a bike does well either with city 

riding or country cruising, but the Street Rod 

handled both like a 618 pound ballerina, there 

was no jerking when accelerating as in some older 

Harley models, and the clutch is butter-smooth. 

The futuristic, gleaming instrument cluster features 

a two-segment speed and RPM display, and 

the vented grill design on the new Brembo brakes 

follows through on the drive train cover and fuel 

tank In short, she’s a beaut. 

The Street Rod is the third model in Harley’s 

VRSC family, which includes the popular V-Rod 

introduced in 2001. The bikes are similar lookswise, 

though the Street Rod is notably taller than 

the V-Rod and has better ground clearance, so 

if you’re on the short side, get used to saddling 

up with some effort. The good news is the taller 

dimensions meant Harley had more room for a 

bigger, 5-gallon gas tank, which means less frequent 

stops. The tank’s under the seat, which 

conveniently flips up and locks back in snugly 

without a key. A gauge saves you from trying to 

remember the last time you visited the pump. (No 

joke – some manufacturers don’t supply this.) 

The engine roar is loud but not window-rattling; 

aftermarket accessories can be added if you 

want to announce your arrival wherever you go. 

As with every Harley, the Street Rod works both 

as a machine and a work of art to be admired. It’s 

all gleaming pipes, carved corners, and a blast to 

drive. Y V C 




Live-aboard the dive boat 

Nautilus Explorer 

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY 

BILL HIRSCH & YVETTE CARDOZO 

© PHOTOGRAPHER: DAN BANNISTER 

Vancouver Island 

The amazing thing was the fish. They were 

everywhere... huge schools of China rockfish 

looked like something from the tropics. 

And the submerged walls were coated with 

life... plumose, sponges, barnacles, clumps 

of feather duster worms. 

But we weren’t at Browning Pass. This was a 

spire of rock on Vancouver Island’s northwest 

coast, a spot dived by only a handful 

of people before, a spot still loaded with fish 

because it’s not exactly on anyone’s harvest path 

and still loaded with life because, frankly, hordes 

of divers haven’t scraped it off. 

The goal was to go completely around 

Vancouver Island on a live-aboard dive boat, 

something done only once before the previous 

fall by this same boat. Most dive boats stay on the 

Inside Passage side, the east coast of this Floridasize 

island where the diving is relatively easier. 

The important term here is ‘relatively.’ We are 

talking cold water diving with all the drysuit gear 

this requires, along with tricky currents, since 

it’s the rush of water that brings nutrients which 

support the world class life. There are divers who 

consider Vancouver Island’s east coast challenge 

enough. 

But the west coast has its own rewards and a 

few more challenges and this trip would give divers 

a chance for a direct comparison. 

Leaving from Steveston, just south of 

Vancouver, we crossed over to the island and scurried 

up the east side, stopping briefly for a dive at 

Texada’s cloud sponges. They hung off the wall 

in three-foot yellow clumps, each a ball of tubes, 

each tube with its own critter a shrimp here, a crab 

there. But best of all were the juvenile quillback 

rockfish. All those little golden faces peering out 

of the tubes. 

That was at 100 feet. We came up to a ledge 

at 40 feet and saw a rainbow nudibranch with 

its crown of translucent waving tentacles. We felt 

lucky to have spotted it and then saw a second, a 

third, a fourth. They were all over the place, dozens 

upon dozens scattered among the pebbles. 

And this was only our first dive. 

From Texada, it was up to Browning Wall on 

the northeast corner of the island. Browning is 

the gold standard of northwest diving. On a dive 

named Al’s Baby we found broccoli stalks of plumose 

hanging all over the place a forest of branching 

white, separated by groups of crimson and 

green anemones, barnacles, 20-armed sun stars, a 

huge king crab, a tiny Pacific octopus and so much 

more life, there literally wasn’t a spot on the wall to 

rest your finger. 

We climbed from the water to a classic northwest 

scene. An eagle soared overhead in a cloudless 

sky and as we headed off, a school of Dall’s 

porpoise sliced through the water around our 

bow, leaving white streaks of foam in their wake. 

Since a cold front was coming through, boat 

owner/captain Mike Lever decided to stick around 


a bit longer on the more protected side of the 

island meaning more dives at Browning and, 

especially, Dillon Rock with its half dozen friendly 

wolf eels. 

Finally, we eased around the north end of 

the island and headed south. The northern tip 

of Vancouver Island is as wild as it comes. With 

its unbroken forests of cedar, its eagles, whales 

and porpoise, it could pass easily for the coast of 

Alaska. 

And the fact that we were doing this in a liveaboard 

dive boat was somewhat of a milestone. 

Diving in these part has come a long way from 

the days, hardly 10 years ago, when a live-aboard 

meant communal toilets and getting dressed on 

an open, unprotected deck. 

Divers here now have many of the amenities 

folks have had for years in warm water destinations: 

terry robes, someone making up the cabin, 

cups of hot chocolate and cinnamon buns handed 

out as you arrive back from the dive, divemaster 

guides if you wish. 

Plus all sorts of clinics – photo workshops run 

by top underwater photogs, fish ID courses run 

by experts from the Vancouver Aquarium, trips 

that also focus on non-dive activities (kayaking, 

hiking, visits to Native villages). And, too, diving 

now means more than just the expected favorites 

– Copper Cliffs by Quadra, Browning Wall by Port 

Hardy, Dillon Rock. Trips now take in the Queen 

Charlotte Islands, Alaska and, of course, the circumnavigation 

of Vancouver Island. 

What allows this is a boat big and fast enough 

to cover the distance and house its divers in comfort. 

Mike’s latest boat, the Nautilus Explorer, is 

116 feet with beds for 24 divers. The boat cruises 

at 10 knots and, if pushed, can do nearly 13. On 

our round-island trip, we covered 600 miles. 

And, along the way, we got an intensive photo 

course with Berkley White, who now believes digital 

is the only way to go. 

So there I was with my very non-digital Nikonos. 

Geez, my equipment was older than half the crew. 

But Berkley has a point about digital. People with 

pocket cameras and not a lot of photo experience 

were getting the kinds of shots a National 

Geographic pro would have died for 10 years ago. 

My roomate, Anita Floyd, a construction manager 

from Oregon, snagged a close up of a barnacle 

and its feeding appendages that was a pastel 

work of art. My dive buddy, Elaine Field of Seattle, 

got a small fish on a sponge that was flawlessly 

posed and lit. There were perfect quillbacks in 

cloud sponge tubes and even more perfect wolf 

eels. Yes, digital tends to blow out highlights. But 

the ability to correct mistakes on the spot and get 

tack-on focus with ridiculously wide depths of 

field is nothing short of amazing. 

It was a good group. Northwest divers tend to 

be that way. The jerks are quickly weeded out by 

116ft Nautilus Explorer 

conditions that require dedication to the sport. 

Hey, of 21 divers aboard, only six of us (including 

me) were on lowly air. Six were using rebreathers. 

The rest were on nitrox or trimix. Most were divemasters 

and one guy runs his own charters. 

Dedicated, definitely. We hit the village of 

Tahsis (population 400) and a bunch went to 

dive mud, hoping for six gill sharks. The rest of us 

drained the town of its entire stock of margaritas, 

to the last drop. 

The next day, we dove the town dock, again 

hoping for six gills. No sharks but the dock was a 

party in itself. For decades, boats have dumped 

their trash here. A white man’s midden, one guy 

quipped. We found a rifle encrusted with sponge 

life. Starfish climbed the pilings. And Elaine found 

the tiniest octopus. 

“Just his eyes peeking out of his hole. You could 

tell he was curious but you could also almost hear 

him think, ‘What is that creature looming over 

me Is it safe Will it eat me’” 

The west coast is Vancouver Island’s wild 

side. This is where North America’s storms come 

ashore. One of the world’s largest recorded waves, 

98 feet, happened here. What’s considered hurricane 

winds and scurry-for-cover in the Caribbean 

is just normal winter weather here. 

And, so, the diving is quite different. 

“Storms scour the outsides of islands, so you 

have to look for life in protected niches and on the 

backsides of pinnacles,” Mike said. The life is not 

as thick and it has to be hardier, sturdy anemones, 

abalones and flat metridiums rather than delicate 

sponges and broccoli stalk plumose. 

You need to think about what you’re doing, 

Mike said in his briefing. Current and surge can 

combine for a rock and roll ride. The trick is to let 

the surge push you, hold onto something while 

it’s trying to suck you backwards, then let it push 

you forward again. And when you come up, Mike 

warned, stay away from the rocks. The surge can 

easily carry you 30 feet up or down. 

We were diving places that had been dived 

only once or maybe not at all. On the northern 

end of the island, it was all virgin. 

More than just diving 

Trips can also focus on non dive activities such as 

kayaking, hiking, visits to native villages. 




Underwater Photography 

My roomate snagged a close up of a barnacle and its 

feeding appendages that was a pastel work of art. My 

dive buddy got a small fish on a sponge that was flawlessly 

posed and lit. There were perfect quillbacks in 

cloud sponge tubes and even more perfect wolf eels. 

We named a few. My contribution, “Bashing 

Rocks,” was, sadly, voted down. Besides the killer 

surge, it had great macro. 

But the best of all was Hot Springs Cove 

Pinnacle. “Probably the best example of what a 

pinnacle dive should be,” Mike said. 

It’s a 300 foot-wide-rock sitting in 100 feet 

of water and is affected by both current and a 

bit of surge, meaning it gets both the hardier 

surge life and the hungrier soft invertebrate life. 

Down at 50 feet the rock was completely covered 

– metridiums, purple flowering tube worms, stars, 

tunnicates, barnacles, sponges, stalks of plumose, 

hundreds of fish. 

Better yet, staghorn bryozoans, colonial animals 

that look like miniature tropical finger coral, 

each about two feet across and holding an entire 

universe of life. There were tiny brittle stars that 

were smaller than a fingernail, near-microscopic 

anemones, fish, shrimp and filter feeders along 

with multicolored worms that wrapped themselves 

around the bryozoan fingers. The whole 

thing writhed with life. 

And then the crowning touch: three wolf eels 

stacked one atop another. And hardly a yard away, 

a huge octopus wedged into a long, deep crack. 

Between dives, we visited an ancient Native 

village with crumbling bits of overgrown, century-old 

totem poles. You go to a museum and 

everything is nicely lit with signs. But here, it’s 

bushwacking through brush to find half-buried 

poles. Any log you step across might be a bit of 

history. The birds are singing and it’s as if you’re 

the first person to be here in decades. 

Another day, we visited Friendly Cove. There 

are dozens of similar coves along the coast but 

somehow, every early explorer managed to land 

here including Vancouver, Cook, and Spaniards 

Galiano and Valdez. Today, what’s left is a lighthouse, 

a church with Native carvings, a memorial 

cairn to Cook and a Native couple with their 

incredibly friendly (natch) cats. 

Then on to Hot Springs Cove. The boardwalk is 

1.5 miles of planks, many of them carved with the 

name of a visiting ship. The path winds through 

a glorious old growth forest crowded with giant 

cedars, some ten feet across. At the end is a series 

of rock basins filled with steaming thermal water. 

We all squeezed into a small series of pools and 

watched ocean waves crash on nearby rocks while 

some chap with a guitar serenaded us with ‘70s 

ballads. 

Our last days, we rounded the southern end of 

the island, first stopping to visit Bamfield where 

we toured the Marine Sciences Centre, a research 

and study facility; they have their own ROV for 

deep water research and yes, it’s seriously cool. 

Then we came into Victoria where we docked 

at the foot of the Empress Hotel and dived the 

breakwater. It started really ho hum, lots of rocks, 

kelp, scallops, barnacles, jellies. Then these giant 

kelp greenlings showed up. One bruiser had to 

be three feet long and he just sat there, posing for 

pictures. And, out of nowhere, a wolf eel nudged 

Elaine. 

This is a popular dive site and he obviously 

expected a handout. He swam into Elaine’s arms, 

sat for 10 minutes of pictures (yes, one of the other 

divers kissed it) and finally settled into my arms 

before slithering off. 

Our last night, Berkley put together a show 

of our photos. The quality was breathtaking, the 

eye of a Red Irish Lord, so close, you could see 

the red flecks across his pupil, a moon jelly with 

kelp against a glowing sun, nudibranchs of every 

description and color. Each image was magazine 

quality, a perfect record of the changing underwater 

life that rings Vancouver Island. Y V C 

About the Writer and Photographer 

This husband & wife writing/photography team specialize 

in adventure travel. Yvette Cardozo worked eight years 

for major metropolitan newspapers; has done freelance 

travel and outdoors articles and photography since 1974. 

Bill Hirsch worked at a variety of research and writing 

jobs in government and private industry and has been 

doing freelance articles since 1982. 

whirsch@cardozohirsch.com 

Information 

More about Nautilus Explorer can be found by 

contacting Blue Water Yacht Charters, Inc., 

+1 360 379 6581 or 800-732-7245 

www.bluewateryachtcharters.com 


DESTINATIONS... 

— CARIBBEAN 

ADVERTISER INDEX 

Advertiser Website Telephone Page 

Afroudakis Yachting www.afroudakisyachting.com (+30) 2109883595 21 

Alpha Yachting www.alphayachting.com 954-234-2203 71 

— MEDITERRANEAN 

— NEW ENGLAND 

— FLORIDA/BAHAMAS 

— ALASKA 

— GALAPAGOS ISLANDS 

Angela Connery Yacht Charters www.acyachtcharters.com 954-234-2203 95 

Beka-Cornish International www.beka-cornish.com 00 34971213073 27 

Ben’s Yacht Services www.WestCoastJeep.com 758-459-5457 69 

Blue Water Yachts Charters www.bluewateryachtcharters.com 800-732-7245 65 

Charter Brokers of Alaska www.charterbrokersofalaska.com 888-530-2628 71 

Dream Sailing www.dreamsailing.com (+33)664037020 90 

Executive Jet Management www.ExecutiveJetManagment.com 800-797-6306 7 

First New England Financial Group www.northforkbank.com 800-262-8562 29 

Gervil Watch Company www.mayors.com 800-4MAYORS 100 

Golden Yachts www.goldenyachts.gr 302109673203/4 13 

Luxurious Lifestyles at Sea www.llatsea.com 866-577-7701 33 

Marcrista Luxury Charters www.marcrista.com.au 69 

Call Toll Free 

877.741.4448 

www.acyachtcharters.com 

If you’re looking for that special 

luxury vacation experience that 

will leave you with unforgettable 

memories – let Angela Connery 

Yacht Charters help you with 

the details of your plans. 

© COPYRIGHT 2004 ANGELA CONNERY YACHT CHARTERS, INC. 

INTERNATIONAL YACHT VACATIONS & CHARTERS MAGAZINE 

Ocean Charters www.oceancarters.com 800-922-4833 71 

Ocean Independence www.ocean-independence.com 1-954-524-9366 37 

Paradise Yacht Charters http://www.paradiseyachtcharters.com 954-462-0091 49 

Peter Insull www.insull.com (+33) 493342242 2,3 

Sea Dream Yacht Club www.SeaDreamCharter.com 800-707-4911 61 

South Seas & Tuttomare www.southseas.it 39081 245.2402 65 

Stabbert Maritime www.stabbertmaritime.com 206-547-6161 x116 55 

The Club at Emerald Bay www.theclubatemeraldbay.com 954-563-1022 17 

The Sacks Group www.sacksyachts.com 954-764-7742 5 

Trimarine Boat www.bvisailing.com 800-648-3393 65 

Charter Your 

Private Yacht 

You’ll love our spacious teak deck. 

It’s where shipmates gather to 

lounge , socialize and party. It’s 

just one reason why our groups 

return to cruise the Caribbean 

aboard a tall ship. 

Hiking • Diving • Kayaking 

Snorkeling • Complimentary 

Rum Swizzles • All Meals 

and Snacks. 

6 Day Full ship charters. 

Call our Groups and 

Charters Department 

TSH Aero One, Inc. www.smartaircharter.com 242-677-8702 69 

Valef Yachts Ltd. www.valefyachts.com 215-641-1624 45 

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THIS INDEX IS PROVIDED AS AN ADDITIONAL SERVICE TO OUR READERS. 

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Gadget On! 


Gadgets to 

bring out the 

hardcore 

gamer in you 

Dell XPS 600 Renegade Desktop and 3007WFP 30-inch LCD 

The detailing on the hood of your Ford Mustang might be cool but the custom paint job on the new Dell XPs 600 

Renegade will blow you away. It is the first Quad-SLI computer on the market personally signed by Mike Lavellee of 

Killer Paint and Michael Dell. The system features the brand new Intel Pentium 955 Extreme Edition processor that has 

been overclocked from 3.46GHz to 4.26GHz, 2GB DDR2 memory at 667MHz, and two dual 1GB GeForce 7800 video 

cards. Play 3D games at full detail settings at unbelievable resolutions of 2,560 x 1,600 on the new Dell 3007WFP 30-inch 

LCD. The heart pounding images on the LCD screen will make you cringe, scream and sweat as you fight the epic battle 

between good and evil. 

Renegade pricing to announced in Spring, 30-inch LCD priced at $2,199 available at www.dell.com 


Dell XPS m170 Gaming Notebook 

This notebook is Dell’s homage to the ultimate high octane gaming experience. The machine can be custom 

configured with Intel’s top-of-the line 2.26GHz Pentium M 780 processor, 1GB of fast PC 4200 

DDR RAM, and a large 100GB hard drive. The laptop’s 3D graphics are enhanced 

by Nvidia’s GeForce Go 7800 GTX 256 chip, which boasts its own 

256MB of discrete memory, and 17 inch Wide-UXGA 

True Life display which supports up to 

1920 x 1200 pixels. With its silver 

gunmetal exterior and black 

accents, the beast is waiting 

to be unleashed. 

Prices start around 

$2,199,available at 

www.dell.com 

Saitek Flight Control System X52 

and Racing Wheel R440 

If you like breaking the major rules of engagement at Top 

Gun, then Saitek’s X52 Flightstick and Throttle combination 

will give you all the precision and control you need 

to take on the best of the best. It offers the best in precision 

engineering and ergonomic design for a true simulated 

flight experience. Your dogfighting days are not over 

- yet. The need for speed on a race track requires control 

and timing. Saitek’s racing wheel will help you negotiate 

sharp turns as you floor the gas pedal to maintain your 

lead in the NASCAR Racing game.The 4 wheel-mounted 

thumb buttons and non-slip rubber grips are designed for 

hours of fatigue free gaming. 

Priced at $129 and $80 respectively, 

available at www.saitek.com 

Plantronics Game Pro P1 Headsets 

School your opponents on how to play like a pro 

online with Plantronics Game Pro P1 digital stereo 

headsets. The headsets offer digitally-enhanced stereo 

sound with awesome bass for a heightened gaming 

experience. With inline volume controls and a noisecanceling 

microphone, the GameCom Pro 1 is ideal for 

live online multi-player games. Use the force, Luke. 

Priced at $90 and available at www.amazon.com 

Klipsch ProMedia Ultra 5.1 Speaker System 

Are you ready to rumble Klipsch Promedia Ultra 5.1 delivers sonic proficiency whether you are taking on explosive 

battles in the Battle Front 2 PC game or watching the latest Bond 007 movie on DVD. Four 2-way satellites, one 2-way 

center channel and a dual-driver 8” subwoofer together produce an amazing 500 watts of total amplified power. Rock 

the house - literally! 

Priced at $399 and available at www.klipsch.com 



Luxury Yacht Charters in Greece and East Mediterranean Sea

Be our guests! 

COPYRIGHT© YACHTING GREECE LTD. 

 

Yachting Greece Ltd. 

12 Lekka Street, Athens 10562 Greece 

Tel (+30) 210 3233057 Fax (+30) 210 3257553 

24 Hour Phone (+30) 697 692 6649 

info@yachtingreece.gr 

www.yachtingreece.gr

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