From Raglan Jacket to Coat with Hood - My Label 3D Fashion ...

berninamylabel.com

From Raglan Jacket to Coat with Hood - My Label 3D Fashion ...

From Raglan Jacket

to Coat with Hood

This style has:

o Hood

o Roomy patch pockets

o Facings on pocket openings

o Sleeve with cuff

o Eye-catching appearance

o Reversible construction

Fit information

o Hood V-shaped towards front closure

edge

o Narrow cut

o Slightly fitted

o Tapers off towards hem

Fabric recommendations

o Wool fabrics

o Blended fabrics

o Double-face fabrics

o Glazed fabrics

o Denim

o Gabardine


Style variant

From raglan jacket to coat with hood

Select model

Open My Label software and open or create the desired model in the models drawer.

Select style

In the styles drawer, under the heading ‘Jackets’, select the raglan jacket.

Alter style properties

o Finished jacket length:

o Sleeve length:

o Wrist / cuff:

increase by 10 cm

increase by 8 cm

increase to 20 cm

Pattern alteration via stitch placement

Detailed instructions for this can be found in the Appendix.

Mark sleeve reference lines

Mark the cuff (fold line) at 8 cm (corresponds to about 1/5 of sleeve length).

Tip To better gauge the length, it can be helpful to draw in an additional line at

underarm height. This can be removed before printing.


Mark front base of neck, front edge, hem, and pocket

Mark front base of neck for the hood as per the figure. The marking line begins at the

base of the neck and ends between the top button markings (Fig. 1).

Mark front edge and hem as per figure. Drag the diagonal line on the front edge approx.

5cm below the bottom button marking and up to approx. 12 cm short of the side seam,

then tapering off to the hem edge (Fig. 2).

Mark pocket in desired shape and size on front section (Fig. 3).

Fig.1 Fig.2 Fig. 3

Print pattern pieces

For the coat with hood, you’ll need front, back and sleeve sections. Position, save and

print out pattern pieces.

Cut out pattern pieces and make alterations by hand

Before cutting out, check the fit and dimensions of the redesigned front and the sleeve.

Correct if necessary.

Hem width can be manually reduced to 1.6 cm on all three pattern pieces before cutting

out.


Sleeve and front

Draw the sleeve seam straight from the forearm to the hem. Cut out (Fig. 1).

Add 1.6 cm seam allowance to both the base of the neck and the new hem edge and

cut out (Fig. 2).

Fig.1

Fig.2

Patch pocket

Add 1.6cm seam allowance to pocket bag on front and copy (Fig. 1).

Cut out pocket bag (Fig. 2).

Cut pocket facing off of pocket bag and add 1.6 cm seam allowance (Fig.3).

Copy the pocket facing and glue together as per Fig. 4, so that both facing sections join

up into arrow.

Fig.1 Fig. 2 Fig.3 Fig.4


Construction of the hood

Measuring

Measure neck-base circumference and head height:

Measure generously from shoulder to shoulder over the head (head

height), i.e. it should be easy to slide the measuring tape over the

back of the head.

Measure finished neck-base line against the pattern pieces, from the

centre-back over the sleeve up to the front edge of the front section, making sure not to

measure the seam allowances at the same time.

Make a note of the neck-base circumference of the pattern and half of the head height.

From the baselines to the head heigh

Draw a right angle of approx. 50 cm x 45 cm.

Mark the neck-base circumference measured

against the pattern on the horizontal baseline

and 1/3 plus 1cm of the neckline upwards on

the vertical line.

Connect markings. In the middle of the

connecting line mark 2.5 cm diagonally

outwards and draw in the neck-base line

slightly rounded, as per the illustration.

Starting from the vertical line, mark the back

neckline circumference (shoulder seam).

Drag a reference line diagonally upwards

from the shoulder-seam marking in the right

angle. Mark half of the measured head height

on this reference line.

Drag a horizontal frame line through this

marking.


Hood markings and shape

Extend the top frame line approx. 7cm to

the right.

From here, close the hood frame.

Make another marking to the left of the

reference line at about 5 cm.

Drag a diagonal marking approx. 5.5 cm

long from the left-hand corner.

Draw a final vertical marking 1cm outside

of the left frame margin.

Draw a harmonious hood shape from the

top right-hand corner to the back neckbase

line.

Close the hood shape from the front

right-hand corner up to the front neckbase

line.

Add 1.6cm seam allowance all around on

the hood and cut out the hood.


Fabric requirement

Fabric Key

Fabric, right Fabric, wrong

side

side

Symbols and Markings Key

CF

CB

B9

Lining, right

side

Lining, wrong

side

Interfacing

Centre Front

Centre Back

Sheet

numbering

Reference points – help

in combining the

individual sheets

Grain

Marking

points on

front sections

Marking points

on back

sections

Pleating in

direction of

arrow

Marking of dart ends

(1cm before the dart

point in each case)

Button

marking

The illustration shows one way the pattern pieces can be laid out on a folded length of

fabric. Since the pattern pieces are created according to your own personal

measurements and preferences, they may differ from the sizes and shapes of the

pattern layout.

Fabric: 140 cm wide, to fabric fold.

Pattern-layout picture

Per piece of fabric 140 cm wide, to fabric fold.

Approx. 2 x 2.5 m fabric in two different qualities (worked double)

Block-interfaced facings

The facings for the pockets are swapped round for construction from both fabrics.


Materials and miscellaneous

o

o

o

o

o

2 buttons

Interfacing for reinforcing pockets

Interfacing for pocket facings

Interfacing or stay tape for the closure edge

Stay tape for hem diagonals and neckline, if wished

Cutting out x 2 in different fabric qualities

Outer fabric/ from 2 qualities

Interfacing

o 1 x back to fabric fold o 2 x fabric strips for welted

o 2 x front

buttonhole, depending on button

o 2 x sleeve

size approx. 10 cm x 6 cm on the

o 2 x hood

diagonal grain

o 2 x patch pocket

o 4 x interfacing in the size of the

o 2 x pocket facings

desired pockets, including pocket

o 2 x fabric strips for welted

facings

buttonhole, depending on button

size approx.10cm x 6cm on the

diagonal grain

Tip: Depending on fabric quality, it makes sense to line the entire front section of a

fabric quality with interfacing.

Preparation

Arrange paper pattern pieces on fabric as per pattern-layout illustration. After cutting

out, transfer all markings onto wrong side of fabric.

Sewing instructions

Preparations

If necessary, iron stay tape onto seam allowance of neck base.

Prepare pockets

Neaten pocket bag. Iron folded facing wrong sides together.

Sew facing right sides together to top edge of pocket. Trim and grade

seam allowance to 1 cm (Fig.1).

Iron facing and seam allowance upwards (Fig. 2).

Iron over seam allowance of inside of facing and trim to 1 cm.

Turn inside of facing onto right side of pocket. Pin seam allowance of facing along the

pointy side and sew together up to join seam of the pocket bag, taking care to stitch the

seam allowance of the inside facing at the same time. Trim seam allowance diagonally

to a point (Fig. 3).

Fig. 1 Fig.2 Fig.3


Carefully turn facing right side out and press.

Iron the neatened seam allowances to the wrong side of the pocket.

Pin or baste facing to wrong side of pocket.

Edge-stitch top and bottom edge of facing on right side of pocket.

Sew on pockets

Pin or baste pockets as per the markings on the front section.

For sturdiness’ sake, sew on pocket bags in the side seam allowances, then edge-stitch

the pockets on.

Sew together hood

Sew together centre seam of hood. Trim seam allowance to 1cm. If necessary, clip in

the curves, press, and topstitch as wished.

Sleeve

Close shoulder darts. Trim seam allowance, press, and topstitch as wished.

Sew on sleeve to within 5 cm of the side seam on the garment back. Trim and press

seam allowances.

Sew on sleeve to within 5 cm of the side seam on the front sections. Trim and press

seam allowances.

Sew on hood

Sew hood to coat as per markings. Trim seam allowance and press apart. Clip in the

curves if necessary.

Prepare welted buttonhole

Mark buttonhole size to suit button diameter about 6 cm below the hood join seam.

Cutting out buttonhole strips

As a rule, 2 mm is added onto the button diameter. Buttonhole width varies from button

to button.

Our example: Button diameter 3.8 mm plus 2 mm yields a buttonhole length of 4 cm,

plus 1.5 cm seam allowance to the left and right, yields a fabric-strip length of 7 cm.

Buttonhole width 8mm. 2 x 8mm yields 1.6 cm buttonhole width plus 2cm seam

allowance each side yields a strip width of 5.6 cm.

Mark buttonhole size with darning thread.

Depending on fabric quality, the buttonhole strip can be lined with interfacing.

Place buttonhole strip right sides together in the centre of the buttonhole marking and

pin. Staystitch buttonhole all round with small stitches as per illustration and secure

firmly. Remove buttonhole marking.


Slash buttonhole as per illustration, making sure not to cut through the straight-stitching

in the corners. The slashed seam width of the buttonhole yields the welt width of the

finished buttonhole.

Pull the buttonhole strip through the slashed opening to the wrong side of the fabric.

Guide the buttonhole strip around the seam allowance; pull smooth and press.

Fold strip into a welt that meets in the centre of the buttonhole. Pin or baste welt.

Stitch welt in the ditch of the buttonhole from the right side. Topstitch the two short long

sides from the wrong side, including the corners created when the buttonhole was

slashed. Pin or baste welt as per illustration.

Place the fabric strip for the inner jacket on the right side of the fabric as per the

markings and pin or baste.

Stitch the buttonhole marking all around with short stitch lengths as per the welted

buttonhole. Slash, turn through the opening and pull smooth.

This will create a window which should be exactly the same size as the welted

buttonhole.

Baste opening all around.

Close side seams

Close side seams with right sides facing. If necessary, trim seam allowances and iron

apart.

Inner and outer coat

Sew the two coats together all around, leaving a turning opening of about 20 cm on the

hem at the centre back.

Trim seam allowances and clip corners. Turn coat through opening at hem to the outer

side.


Tip: Press seam allowances apart before turning coat. This makes it easier to iron the

edges into shape.

Press the edges and stitch in place if need be.

Attach hood and finish welted buttonhole.

Starting at the open hem, pin or baste the seam allowance of the hoods, inside from

shoulder seam to shoulder seam, so that the seams lie exactly one on top of the other.

Stitch.

Pin buttonhole window of inner coat wrong sides facing onto welted buttonhole and sew

together by hand.

Join coat sleeves

With right sides facing, sew together sleeve hems of inner and outer coat. Trim seam

allowance, turn, and press the edge, starting from the right side of the coat.

Sew sleeve seams together from top to bottom. Press seam allowances apart.

Topstitch sleeve hem 1.5 cm in from the edge.

Finish closing sleeve in the forearm curve. If necessary, trim seam allowance and

secure by hand with a few stitches.

Finish coat

Close back opening by hand. Topstitch coat all around 1.5 cm in from the edge.

Sew buttons onto inner and outer coat.

Further detailed information can be found in your My Label program at

Help> Sewing Techniques. This option offers detailed instructions on the proper way to

sew belt loops, collars, pockets, linings and much more. It also deals with basic sewing

techniques for newcomers.

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