th e jo u rn alof G ra - Grand Canyon River Guides
th e jo u rn alof G ra - Grand Canyon River Guides
th e jo u rn alof G ra - Grand Canyon River Guides
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Kate Thompson<br />
<strong>th</strong>e <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al of G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong> <strong>Guides</strong>, Inc volume 16 number 3 fall 2003<br />
Prez Blurb • Dear Eddy • Changes • Changing Rapids • Cookbook and Songbook<br />
Depression • Whale Foundation • GCY • Saving Boats • Charlie • On <strong>River</strong>s and Hu,ility<br />
Dan Davis, Sr. • Letter from Bessie • Toquerville My<strong>th</strong> • Indian Canals • Fun Wi<strong>th</strong> History<br />
Ballott Comments • Contributors
oatman’s quarterly review<br />
…is published more or less quarterly<br />
by and for G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong> <strong>Guides</strong>.<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong> <strong>Guides</strong><br />
is a nonprofit organization dedicated to<br />
Protecting G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
Setting <strong>th</strong>e highest standards for <strong>th</strong>e river profession<br />
Celeb<strong>ra</strong>ting <strong>th</strong>e unique spirit of <strong>th</strong>e river community<br />
Providing <strong>th</strong>e best possible river experience<br />
Gene<strong>ra</strong>l Meetings are held each Spring and Fall. Our<br />
Board of Directors Meetings are gene<strong>ra</strong>lly held <strong>th</strong>e first<br />
Wednesday of each mon<strong>th</strong>. All innocent bystanders are<br />
urged to attend. Call for details.<br />
Staff<br />
Executive Director<br />
Board of Directors<br />
President<br />
Vice President<br />
Treasurer<br />
Directors<br />
Gcrg’s amwg<br />
Representative<br />
Gcrg’s twg<br />
Representative<br />
Bqr Editors<br />
Lynn Hamilton<br />
Michael Ghiglieri<br />
John O’Brien<br />
Lynn Hamilton<br />
OC Dale<br />
Bob Dye<br />
Jocelyn Gibbon<br />
Matt Kaplinski<br />
Jeri Ledbetter<br />
Jayne Lee<br />
Andre Potochnik<br />
Matt Kaplinski<br />
Ka<strong>th</strong>erine MacDonald<br />
Mary Williams<br />
Our editorial policy, such as it is: provide an open forum.<br />
We need articles, poetry, stories, d<strong>ra</strong>wings, photos, opinions,<br />
suggestions, gripes, comics, etc. Opinions expressed<br />
are not necessarily <strong>th</strong>ose of G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong><br />
<strong>Guides</strong>, Inc.<br />
Written submissions should be less <strong>th</strong>an 1500 words<br />
and, if possible, be sent on a computer disk, pc or mac<br />
format; Microsoft Word files are best but we can t<strong>ra</strong>nslate<br />
most prog<strong>ra</strong>ms. Include postpaid retu<strong>rn</strong> envelope if<br />
you want your disk or submission retu<strong>rn</strong>ed.<br />
Deadlines for submissions are <strong>th</strong>e 1st of February,<br />
May, August and November. Thanks.<br />
Our office location: 515 West Birch, Flagstaff, az 86001<br />
Office Hours: 10:30–4:30 Monday <strong>th</strong>rough Friday<br />
Phone 928/773-1075<br />
Fax 928/773-8523<br />
E-mail gcrg@infomagic.net<br />
Website www.gcrg.org<br />
Slice <strong>th</strong>e Pie Even<br />
Thinner<br />
In 1857, Lieutenant Joseph Christmas Ives led<br />
one hell of a <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>ey from <strong>th</strong>e mou<strong>th</strong> of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do upriver to <strong>th</strong>e Rio Virgin west of Weste<strong>rn</strong><br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>. He <strong>th</strong>en plodded overland wi<strong>th</strong> his<br />
mule t<strong>ra</strong>in onto <strong>th</strong>e Sou<strong>th</strong> Rim and <strong>th</strong>e Coconino<br />
Plateau, dropping partway into Havasu. Next he<br />
t<strong>ra</strong>versed all <strong>th</strong>e way east and nor<strong>th</strong> to Fort Defiance.<br />
This fo<strong>ra</strong>y into <strong>th</strong>e relatively unknown Sou<strong>th</strong>west was<br />
high adventure of <strong>th</strong>e first caliber. His quote about <strong>th</strong>e<br />
sheer desolation of <strong>th</strong>e Coconino Plateau—“Ours has<br />
been <strong>th</strong>e first, and doubtless will be <strong>th</strong>e last, party of<br />
whites to visit <strong>th</strong>is profitless locality”—rings down to<br />
us today, however, wi<strong>th</strong> a singular lack of foresight<br />
<strong>th</strong>at makes us shake our heads despite ourselves.<br />
A dozen years later, a Ma<strong>jo</strong>r John Wesley Powell<br />
carved out a name for himself by hiring a crew of Civil<br />
War vete<strong>ra</strong>ns living as mountain men in <strong>th</strong>e Rockies<br />
to row four Whitehalls down a <strong>th</strong>ousand miles of relatively<br />
unknown river canyons along <strong>th</strong>e Green and<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do rivers. G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> was <strong>th</strong>e g<strong>ra</strong>nd—and<br />
ultimately fatal—finale to Powell’s 1869 Expedition of<br />
Explo<strong>ra</strong>tion. (An aside here, a new book just<br />
published <strong>th</strong>is year by Puma Press presents <strong>th</strong>e <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>als<br />
and letters of <strong>th</strong>ese first G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong> <strong>Guides</strong><br />
and engagingly explores <strong>th</strong>is expedition wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e eyes<br />
of a professional…) Not only did none of Powell’s<br />
surviving crew ever want to run <strong>th</strong>at river again,<br />
Powell himself made only one more partial trip. It is<br />
clear from Powell’s ensuing career <strong>th</strong>at he, like Ives,<br />
believed <strong>th</strong>at no one else would be tough enough or<br />
foolish enough to attempt boating <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong><br />
in G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> ever again. Not even Powell’s<br />
second, 1871–1872, crew wanted to row past Kanab<br />
Creek to face Lava Falls, Sepa<strong>ra</strong>tion Rapid, and Lava<br />
Cliff Falls. They abandoned <strong>th</strong>eir Whitehalls near<br />
Mile 144 wi<strong>th</strong> a profound sense of relief. The whole<br />
enterprise of continuing downriver was far too taxing<br />
of bo<strong>th</strong> streng<strong>th</strong> and cou<strong>ra</strong>ge.<br />
If we don’t watch ourselves, we can tend to be<br />
smug today over <strong>th</strong>ese d<strong>ra</strong>matic, perhaps even overd<strong>ra</strong>matic,<br />
early accounts of <strong>th</strong>e terrors of G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
and <strong>th</strong>at wild beast of a river coursing <strong>th</strong>rough it. And<br />
we can grin and roll our eyes at <strong>th</strong>ose explorers’ wrong<br />
predictions <strong>th</strong>at no one new would ever be dimwitted<br />
enough to venture into <strong>th</strong>e region again. Not only do<br />
we have <strong>th</strong>e whole <strong>th</strong>ing figured out—<strong>th</strong>e cut at<br />
Bedrock, <strong>th</strong>e V-wave in Lava, <strong>th</strong>e whale’s tail in Ho<strong>rn</strong><br />
Creek, <strong>th</strong>e left and right runs in Hance (and <strong>th</strong>e<br />
center one at flows of 70,000–95,000 cfs)—we babysit<br />
dimwitted newcomers in <strong>th</strong>e dep<strong>th</strong>s of <strong>th</strong>at canyon<br />
page 2<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
quite often. Collectively, it seems, a legion of <strong>th</strong>em.<br />
Hey, not only do we know <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> and <strong>th</strong>e <strong>River</strong>,<br />
we also know <strong>th</strong>at bo<strong>th</strong> toge<strong>th</strong>er act as one of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
most powerful catalysts of renewal of <strong>th</strong>e human spirit.<br />
We, it tu<strong>rn</strong>s out, are guides not only into an<br />
immensely impressive ter<strong>ra</strong>in on Planet Ear<strong>th</strong>, we are<br />
equally guides into <strong>th</strong>e lost canyons of <strong>jo</strong>y wi<strong>th</strong>in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
human spirit.<br />
Have we—and <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>—done <strong>th</strong>is <strong>jo</strong>b too<br />
well<br />
None of <strong>th</strong>e outfitters running <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do have to advertise <strong>th</strong>eir services much any<br />
more. Sure, <strong>th</strong>e current economic recession and war<br />
have nicked business a bit. But, really, <strong>th</strong>e sixteen<br />
commercial nps concession cont<strong>ra</strong>cts are relative gold<br />
mines when compared to o<strong>th</strong>er “real-world” business<br />
out <strong>th</strong>ere in <strong>th</strong>at cut<strong>th</strong>roat national economy of layoffs<br />
and bankruptcies. After all, no new companies can<br />
enter <strong>th</strong>e scene in G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> to present competition.<br />
The Chinese cannot manufacture new, cheap but<br />
serviceable G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> trips or user-days or<br />
launches by using sweat shop/slave labor. “Our” established<br />
and sanctioned and cont<strong>ra</strong>cted trips are <strong>th</strong>e<br />
number one-<strong>ra</strong>ted adventure t<strong>ra</strong>vel experience in<br />
Nor<strong>th</strong> America. Powell never would have dreamed<br />
<strong>th</strong>is, but now half a million people do dream of <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
experiences here and <strong>th</strong>ey tell o<strong>th</strong>ers how wonderful<br />
and even life-changing <strong>th</strong>ey were. So, yes, in a business<br />
sense, outfitters seem to have <strong>th</strong>eir cake and eat it<br />
too. And we are <strong>th</strong>e agents of <strong>th</strong>eir success.<br />
We are also guardians of <strong>th</strong>e quality of <strong>th</strong>is experience.<br />
Sure <strong>th</strong>e nps continues to try to build fences<br />
around what we can do, but <strong>th</strong>e ma<strong>jo</strong>rity of <strong>th</strong>ose<br />
fences are ones wi<strong>th</strong> which we G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong><br />
<strong>Guides</strong> already agree. Some are even ones <strong>th</strong>at we<br />
have recommended. Most of us take our guardianship<br />
and stewardship of <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> deeply to heart. This<br />
deep love for <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> combined wi<strong>th</strong> our far superior<br />
knowledge of it places us in a weird psychological<br />
position.<br />
Who else, we may ask ourselves, is better suited to<br />
take people into <strong>th</strong>is <strong>Canyon</strong> wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e greatest positive<br />
effects on our fellow explorers but wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e fewest<br />
negative impacts on <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> beside us<br />
The answer is nobody. Really nobody.<br />
For <strong>th</strong>ose of us who dwell on <strong>th</strong>is revelation, our<br />
superiority wi<strong>th</strong> regard to G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> issues<br />
compared to <strong>th</strong>e entire remainder of intelligent life in<br />
<strong>th</strong>e universe, lies a deep t<strong>ra</strong>p of conceit and hubris.<br />
Sure, we’re smart and we run good clean trips. But so<br />
too do o<strong>th</strong>er boaters out <strong>th</strong>ere, boaters for whom a<br />
private G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> trip is a float to boating Mecca.<br />
Yes, we’ve all seen private trips rigging in a hurricane-scattered<br />
mess of gear at <strong>th</strong>e launch <strong>ra</strong>mp wi<strong>th</strong> a<br />
proud heap of 80+ case of beer stacked up to supply<br />
fifteen people wi<strong>th</strong> a constant mental anes<strong>th</strong>esia for<br />
two-plus weeks. And we know <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>ese private<br />
boaters’ attempts to consume <strong>th</strong>at beer—to bring no<br />
can home alive—will gua<strong>ra</strong>ntee <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e experiences<br />
of <strong>th</strong>ose private boaters in G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> will be at<br />
best mediocre and more likely a pa<strong>th</strong>etic beer bash<br />
<strong>th</strong>at mocks <strong>th</strong>e majesty of <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>. Why not, we<br />
ask ourselves, find some pond somewhere, launch <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
boats on it, and stay drunk <strong>th</strong>ere under <strong>th</strong>eir umbrellas<br />
and in <strong>th</strong>eir folding chairs, out of our sight and <strong>th</strong>at of<br />
<strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> itself<br />
Lest we judge too harshly, however, or condemn<br />
<strong>th</strong>ese “t<strong>ra</strong>iler-t<strong>ra</strong>sh” private trips as being <strong>th</strong>e typical<br />
private trips, let me point out <strong>th</strong>at most private trips<br />
are populated wi<strong>th</strong> private boaters who respect <strong>th</strong>e<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> and value extremely highly <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
boating/hiking experiences in it during <strong>th</strong>eir trips. For<br />
many of <strong>th</strong>em it is truly <strong>th</strong>e trip of <strong>th</strong>eir lifetimes. So<br />
much so <strong>th</strong>at, as wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e commercial passengers <strong>th</strong>at<br />
we service, <strong>th</strong>e word spreads.<br />
And <strong>th</strong>e demand grows.<br />
And grows.<br />
Lieutenant Ives and Ma<strong>jo</strong>r Powell would be blown<br />
away wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e current state of affairs at <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>.<br />
And wi<strong>th</strong> shrinking beaches due to <strong>th</strong>e environmentally<br />
deleterious ope<strong>ra</strong>tions of Glen <strong>Canyon</strong> Dam,<br />
<strong>th</strong>e pie fails to expand to accommodate <strong>th</strong>is growing<br />
demand.<br />
The National Park Service in <strong>th</strong>e 1970s made an<br />
attempt to determine <strong>th</strong>e carrying capacity of <strong>th</strong>e river<br />
corridor wi<strong>th</strong>in <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>. This carrying capacity<br />
pivoted around camp site numbers, size, and dispersion,<br />
and upon o<strong>th</strong>er more social factors such as<br />
crowding at att<strong>ra</strong>ction sites, <strong>ra</strong>pids, etc. This attempt<br />
at identifying carrying capacity or defining <strong>th</strong>e size of<br />
<strong>th</strong>e “pie” to be sliced up between users became <strong>th</strong>e<br />
backbone of <strong>th</strong>e entire system by which <strong>th</strong>e nps allocates<br />
and limits usage of <strong>th</strong>e river to commercial<br />
outfitters and also to <strong>th</strong>e private sector made up of<br />
<strong>th</strong>ose who want to row or paddle or motor <strong>th</strong>eir own<br />
boats <strong>th</strong>emselves. In short, to be <strong>th</strong>eir own pilots. Yes,<br />
I know <strong>th</strong>is is common knowledge but please bear wi<strong>th</strong><br />
me for a moment.<br />
The early allocation was roughly 93 percent<br />
commercial and seven percent private. This was<br />
shifted seve<strong>ra</strong>l years back to roughly 75 percent<br />
commercial and 25 percent commercial. Commercial<br />
outfitters, it might be pointed out, require bo<strong>th</strong> a critical<br />
mass of user-days and a very high predictability of<br />
having <strong>th</strong>em to remain in business. An allocation<br />
system allowing <strong>th</strong>is, whatever <strong>th</strong>eir slice of <strong>th</strong>e pie<br />
might be, is vital. Meanwhile, access as a private trip<br />
permit holder to <strong>th</strong>is 25 percent shifted away from a<br />
lottery system, complained about by many as being<br />
one so extremely unreliable <strong>th</strong>at a private boater<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 3
might never gain access to <strong>th</strong>e river, and has moved to<br />
<strong>th</strong>e now infamous and hated “Waiting List.”<br />
No matter what your opinion might be of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Waiting List or of private boating in gene<strong>ra</strong>l, demand by<br />
private boaters to be a trip permit holder now apparently<br />
exceeds demand by commercial passengers for access to<br />
<strong>th</strong>e river in G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>.<br />
The current Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong> Management Plan<br />
(crmp) process to somehow revise or “improve” on <strong>th</strong>is<br />
apparent inequity of access is occurring due to nps law<br />
and also in response to a lawsuit by private boaters. This<br />
process has become a very hot one, wi<strong>th</strong> scoping sessions<br />
scattered across <strong>th</strong>e usa and wi<strong>th</strong> more recent “Stakeholder<br />
meetings” and <strong>th</strong>en yet more Stakeholder meetings<br />
on <strong>th</strong>e issues of carrying capacity (what is it,<br />
anyway, and how does one determine it), motor usage,<br />
and allocation of user days between <strong>th</strong>e two ma<strong>jo</strong>r user<br />
groups of private versus commercial. Conspicuously,<br />
<strong>th</strong>ere exists no nps allocation for an “educational”<br />
sector, again, just commercial and private plus <strong>th</strong>e large<br />
“shadow” allocation for “science/resource monitoring.”<br />
The scoping sessions, as you might know, were tightly<br />
controlled. They limited most comments to a written<br />
format. Even so, <strong>th</strong>is yielded more <strong>th</strong>an 50,000<br />
comments from 13,000 public commentors. The Stakeholder<br />
meetings (occurring as late as June 2003) were<br />
also tightly controlled, and, in my personal opinion at<br />
least, restricted to such arbit<strong>ra</strong>ry dimensions of input and<br />
also wi<strong>th</strong>out allowing true discussion groups <strong>th</strong>at might<br />
lead to consensus compromises, <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>eir value will, I<br />
fear, prove to be limited at best, and detrimentally<br />
distortable at worst.<br />
Even so, a patte<strong>rn</strong> emerged wi<strong>th</strong> singular clarity:<br />
Nei<strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>e commercial outfitters nor <strong>th</strong>ose representing<br />
<strong>th</strong>e private boating community are eager to make<br />
concessions wi<strong>th</strong>in <strong>th</strong>eir own camps.<br />
This may sound obvious or even facile, but unless<br />
such discussion between <strong>th</strong>e user groups can lead to<br />
remedying at least some of what are identified as<br />
inequities en<strong>jo</strong>yed by bo<strong>th</strong> sides, <strong>th</strong>en <strong>th</strong>e entity who<br />
will saw <strong>th</strong>e baby in half will be <strong>th</strong>e National Park<br />
Service. And if <strong>th</strong>e latter entity does a glaringly poor <strong>jo</strong>b<br />
of it, <strong>th</strong>eir completed crmp will result not in a workable<br />
plan but instead in litigation.<br />
For example, commercial outfitters point out <strong>th</strong>at half<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e scheduled private launch dates are canceled or<br />
deferred by <strong>th</strong>e permittees, and <strong>th</strong>us imply <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e private<br />
permit holders are not acting in a responsible manner.<br />
They also point out <strong>th</strong>at a minority of private boaters have<br />
become so adept at playing <strong>th</strong>e nps system to get <strong>th</strong>emselves<br />
onto private trips <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>ey do <strong>th</strong>ree, or four, or even<br />
five private trips in a year, <strong>th</strong>us taking private user-day slots<br />
away from more deserving private boaters. The outfitters<br />
point out <strong>th</strong>at if <strong>th</strong>e private boating leadership were really<br />
interested in “equity,” as claimed, <strong>th</strong>en <strong>th</strong>ey would agree to<br />
new regulations to limit a private boater to one trip per<br />
year and <strong>th</strong>us “clean <strong>th</strong>eir house” of “system-abusers” who<br />
worsen <strong>th</strong>e ove<strong>ra</strong>ll situation for private boaters in gene<strong>ra</strong>l.<br />
But, some outfitters point out, <strong>th</strong>e private boating leadership<br />
is not willing to do <strong>th</strong>is.<br />
A fur<strong>th</strong>er criticism by outfitters is <strong>th</strong>at, while, yes, it<br />
may take twelve years for a private boater to get his or<br />
her own permit to run a private trip, any private boater<br />
is free right now to explore <strong>th</strong>e possibility of <strong>jo</strong>ining a<br />
partially filled private trip wi<strong>th</strong> a launch date scheduled<br />
for <strong>th</strong>e next 12–24 mon<strong>th</strong>s; <strong>th</strong>is is exactly, outfitters<br />
point out, <strong>th</strong>e same option <strong>th</strong>at a commercial passenger<br />
now faces in trying to get onto a commercial river trip.<br />
On <strong>th</strong>e o<strong>th</strong>er side of <strong>th</strong>e coin, private boaters point<br />
out <strong>th</strong>at a twelve year wait (or even twenty years as<br />
some ext<strong>ra</strong>polate) to get a private launch permit is<br />
ridiculously unequal to <strong>th</strong>e one or two year wait <strong>th</strong>at a<br />
person who wants to buy a commercial charter trip faces.<br />
Private boaters say <strong>th</strong>is is socioeconomic discrimination,<br />
or even segregation, and unfair.<br />
Wi<strong>th</strong> such arguments, often deg<strong>ra</strong>ding into applesversus-o<strong>ra</strong>nges<br />
comparisons, all progress is de<strong>ra</strong>iled,<br />
which seems to be, for a few, a goal in itself.<br />
In <strong>th</strong>e last “Stakeholder Session” I pointed out to <strong>th</strong>e<br />
group in gene<strong>ra</strong>l—and to seve<strong>ra</strong>l members’ dismay—<strong>th</strong>at<br />
all discussion of allocation scenarios are completely arbit<strong>ra</strong>ry<br />
and are an exercise in futility wi<strong>th</strong>out a very<br />
specific and critical body of data. It is absolutely necessary<br />
to <strong>th</strong>e nps, I said, in <strong>th</strong>eir deciding an equitable<br />
allocation system, to know what <strong>th</strong>e true demand of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
American public in gene<strong>ra</strong>l is for specific sorts of trips:<br />
commercial, private, and educational.<br />
Thus <strong>th</strong>e nps must devise instruments to assess what<br />
every member of <strong>th</strong>e public interested in a river trip<br />
<strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> actually wants as <strong>th</strong>eir preferred<br />
trip. When such data are tallied, <strong>th</strong>ey yield a guide for<br />
allocation. This may sound obvious and simple and true,<br />
but <strong>th</strong>e knowledge <strong>th</strong>at such data may yield (assuming<br />
<strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e data are accu<strong>ra</strong>te and representative) is potentially<br />
dangerous to every user group and <strong>th</strong>reatening to<br />
<strong>th</strong>e status quo in gene<strong>ra</strong>l, including <strong>th</strong>e status quo of<br />
private users, who may discover <strong>th</strong>at private boaters are<br />
an even smaller minority <strong>th</strong>an currently claimed, while<br />
<strong>th</strong>e currently unallocated “educational” user group is<br />
vastly underestimated.<br />
Apropos of <strong>th</strong>is need, <strong>th</strong>e nps is already exploring a<br />
“gateway” concept. This computer gateway would assess<br />
every person who wants to participate in a <strong>Canyon</strong> river<br />
trip—private or commercial—wi<strong>th</strong> a series of questions<br />
designed to categorize <strong>th</strong>eir specific interests and preferences.<br />
This system does not yet exist but resides in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
stage of conceptualization.<br />
Critics of gateway concept—and of all o<strong>th</strong>er social<br />
survey instruments aimed at determining public preference—point<br />
out <strong>th</strong>at some people wi<strong>th</strong>in any and all<br />
page 4<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
user groups will be tempted to stack <strong>th</strong>e deck somehow<br />
by creating a flood of <strong>th</strong>eir own user-members to distort<br />
<strong>th</strong>e pool of data. Their ability to do <strong>th</strong>is depends of<br />
course on nps safeguards wi<strong>th</strong>in <strong>th</strong>eir survey system but<br />
also pivots on a user group’s combined financial<br />
resources to pay for flooding <strong>th</strong>e system wi<strong>th</strong> “ext<strong>ra</strong>” or<br />
“spurious” would-be users.<br />
No system is perfect. And all systems are suspect<br />
when <strong>th</strong>e status quo is <strong>th</strong>reatened wi<strong>th</strong> change <strong>th</strong>at will<br />
hurt a user group.<br />
Unfortunately <strong>th</strong>is problem is ours. Not wi<strong>th</strong> some<br />
o<strong>th</strong>er group of “experts.” And it devolves upon us to<br />
open-mindedly consider and offer positive inputs in<br />
creating a better system.<br />
The pie is shrinking and <strong>th</strong>e demand is growing—<br />
and all of <strong>th</strong>is in an adversarial and litigious arena. Our<br />
contributions are critical.<br />
We may never “all get along.” Very likely we will<br />
not. Animosities between some elements of all user<br />
groups over allocation may fester forever due to “equity”<br />
being perceived differently by different individuals. But<br />
if we are to behave as <strong>ra</strong>tional individuals in a civilized<br />
society, we need to engage in honest dialog wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e full<br />
foreknowledge <strong>th</strong>at everyone at <strong>th</strong>e table may have to<br />
give up some small part of <strong>th</strong>eir slice of <strong>th</strong>e pie to forge a<br />
better allocation system.<br />
Do we have it in us to help shape a fairer system <strong>th</strong>at<br />
preserves a viable commercial outfitter system while<br />
allowing <strong>th</strong>e ave<strong>ra</strong>ge private boater out <strong>th</strong>ere to gain a<br />
workable anticipation <strong>th</strong>at he or she will be able to hop<br />
onto a private trip wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>ree or four years<br />
I <strong>th</strong>ink it is possible, especially if we are willing to reexplore<br />
<strong>th</strong>e idea of “private permit-holder” versus<br />
“private boater” and devise a system <strong>th</strong>at favors <strong>th</strong>e<br />
latter and de-emphasizes <strong>th</strong>e exclusivity of <strong>th</strong>e former.<br />
To pull <strong>th</strong>is off we need to sit at <strong>th</strong>at table and<br />
hammer it out. As we all know, democ<strong>ra</strong>cy is a messy<br />
process. But it is infinitely better <strong>th</strong>an “Big Bro<strong>th</strong>er.”<br />
Hence, when <strong>th</strong>e next crmp review session begins,<br />
please be <strong>th</strong>ere. Your positive participation is needed.<br />
This is my last President’s Column in <strong>th</strong>e bqr. I will<br />
soon step down to leave <strong>th</strong>e gcrg presidency in <strong>th</strong>e very<br />
capable and sometimes wry hands of John O’Brien. It<br />
has been my pleasure to try to serve you, my fellow<br />
guides, in positive ways. After all, we are a limited breed<br />
and we pay a big price to p<strong>ra</strong>ctice our profession. I’ve<br />
tried to reduce <strong>th</strong>at price. I also, as most of you do,<br />
possess a deep respect and, yes, a somewhat possessive<br />
one, for <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> itself; I would like to pay “it” back<br />
by attempting to protect it from <strong>th</strong>e seemingly endless<br />
follies and ecological insults perpet<strong>ra</strong>ted upon it by our<br />
fellow men (not women, it may be pointed out, just<br />
men). In <strong>th</strong>ese two dual attempts, I must admit, I have<br />
had what I consider to have been very limited success.<br />
For my parting shot—my Par<strong>th</strong>ian arrow—please let me<br />
simply say: Thanks for trusting me (if you did), and my<br />
plea to you is, when faced wi<strong>th</strong> any issues on G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong>, follow your heart and act upon its dictates.<br />
Michael Ghiglieri<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 5
Dear Eddy<br />
In Reference to “Back of <strong>th</strong>e Boat” by Mike Boyle<br />
in bqr 16:2<br />
In 1987 Sobek <strong>ra</strong>n <strong>th</strong>e first descent of <strong>th</strong>e Yarkand<br />
<strong>River</strong> in Chinese Turkestan. John Yost, Jim Slade<br />
and I <strong>ra</strong>n self-bailers, and Mike Boyle got stuck<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e bucket boat. The river dropped 7000 feet in<br />
300 miles, and <strong>th</strong>ere were no maps, no aerial photos,<br />
no t<strong>ra</strong>ils along <strong>th</strong>e shore. We encountered seve<strong>ra</strong>l deep<br />
canyons <strong>th</strong>at precluded scouting, due to <strong>th</strong>e wall-towall<br />
river and vertical rock sides. This was psychologically<br />
challenging water, not for <strong>th</strong>e Class IV water, but<br />
for <strong>th</strong>e total unknown <strong>th</strong>at greeted us around <strong>th</strong>e each<br />
bend, and <strong>th</strong>e lack of time to prepare for it. We had<br />
no choice but to run <strong>th</strong>ese canyons, make quick decisions,<br />
and hope for <strong>th</strong>e best.<br />
In one of <strong>th</strong>ese gorges, Boyle took a wave <strong>th</strong>at filled<br />
his boat to <strong>th</strong>e gunwales. He careened away, out of<br />
control, and disappeared downstream. Slade was in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
lead but had pulled to shore down below and was<br />
unable to help. Yost and I were behind and gave fruitless<br />
chase. As I swept past Slade, he called out “Boyle<br />
was still upright, going around <strong>th</strong>e bend!” It sounded<br />
like an epitaph.<br />
We lea<strong>rn</strong> from Boyle’s article in “Back of <strong>th</strong>e Boat”<br />
in <strong>th</strong>e last bqr <strong>th</strong>at for quite a while until <strong>ra</strong><strong>th</strong>er<br />
recently, his life fit <strong>th</strong>at description. He again floated<br />
around <strong>th</strong>e bend, and not always under control. He<br />
left guiding and <strong>th</strong>e life he knew and loved, and<br />
caromed towards some scary unknown future for which<br />
<strong>th</strong>ere was no map. In spite of <strong>th</strong>e hazards and <strong>th</strong>e setbacks,<br />
he managed to stay upright, if periodically<br />
awash.<br />
As he disappeared downriver <strong>th</strong>at day on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Yarkand, floating where no man had floated before, he<br />
stayed true to his own credo. He was certainly working<br />
hard and doing <strong>th</strong>e best <strong>jo</strong>b he could. No one doubted<br />
<strong>th</strong>at he was paying attention. Boyle’s fundamentals<br />
were always sound. Somehow he managed to remain<br />
upright. He bailed his boat and sc<strong>ra</strong>mbled to shore<br />
before we caught up to him. He looked beaten up, but<br />
not beaten, his huge droopy mustache unable to hide<br />
<strong>th</strong>e grin.<br />
Now we’ve caught up to Boyle again, but <strong>th</strong>is time<br />
we find him under control in midstream, his life<br />
moving forward, and <strong>th</strong>at grin still hiding <strong>th</strong>e recent<br />
turmoil. We’re all proud of Mike. He faced challenges<br />
greater <strong>th</strong>an most of us will ever have to face. He<br />
managed to stay upright in spite of taking some big<br />
ones over <strong>th</strong>e bow, and he came out on top. We’re also<br />
pleased wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e inspi<strong>ra</strong>tional example he’s set for<br />
o<strong>th</strong>ers. Today, off <strong>th</strong>e river, he continues to live by his<br />
own tenets, which we all would do well to emulate,<br />
and his example again gives hope to all of us <strong>th</strong>at<br />
<strong>th</strong>ere is indeed life around <strong>th</strong>e bend. Work hard, pay<br />
attention, and do <strong>th</strong>e best <strong>jo</strong>b you can.<br />
Just like Boyle.<br />
Skip Ho<strong>rn</strong>er<br />
In reference to “The Madness of Jack Sumner” by<br />
Don Lago in bqr 16:2<br />
Don Lago’s piece in <strong>th</strong>e last bqr, pertaining to<br />
Jack Sumner’s self mutilation, was <strong>th</strong>e most<br />
shocking piece of Powell lore I can imagine. It<br />
is remarkable <strong>th</strong>at such a bizarre tale has been under<br />
w<strong>ra</strong>ps for a full century, given <strong>th</strong>e keen interest in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Powell expedition. It is <strong>th</strong>e tale of a deeply troubled<br />
man at <strong>th</strong>e very least-a man who would be institutionalized<br />
in today’s world.<br />
But aside from <strong>th</strong>e t<strong>ra</strong>gedy it exposes in Sumner’s<br />
life, it has <strong>ra</strong>mifications <strong>th</strong>at ripple far wider. Robert<br />
Brewster Stanton and o<strong>th</strong>ers who have searched long<br />
and hard for evidence to condemn Powell, have relied<br />
heavily on Sumner’s latter-day account of <strong>th</strong>e 1869<br />
expedition, wherein Sumner claims much greater leadership<br />
in <strong>th</strong>e trip, and condemns Powell on a number<br />
of accounts. Yet is an account written some four-andone-half<br />
years after Sumner cast<strong>ra</strong>ted himself on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
banks of <strong>th</strong>e Green <strong>River</strong>—it is an account written by<br />
a man unhinged.<br />
We know <strong>th</strong>at now, and can begin to put Sumner’s<br />
account into a somewhat different perspective. And<br />
certainly we can forgive earlier researchers for leaning<br />
so heavily on Sumner’s seemingly coherent recollections.<br />
Or can we<br />
It was Stanton who requested Sumner’s 1907<br />
account, which forms <strong>th</strong>e backbone of Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong><br />
Controversies. Yet in appendix G of Stanton’s unpublished<br />
manuscript of The <strong>River</strong> and <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>, he<br />
quotes a letter from Sumner-wi<strong>th</strong> one large omission.<br />
The ageless question of “What did he know, and when<br />
did he know it”comes to mind. Stanton’s footnote<br />
explaining his omission, in light of Don Lago’s<br />
discovery, now begins to speak volumes. (I am<br />
assuming <strong>th</strong>e b<strong>ra</strong>cketed words were added by<br />
Stanton.):<br />
page 6<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
March 28<strong>th</strong>., 1907<br />
Dear Stanton:<br />
Yours 21st. rec’d. and noted. In reply will say <strong>th</strong>at you<br />
have got hold of a badly mutilated copy of my <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al. I kept<br />
a <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al from May 24<strong>th</strong>., 1869, when we left Green <strong>River</strong>,<br />
Wyoming, to Fort Mojave, Arizona. Made a complete copy<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e original and sent [it] to Maj. J.W. Powell. He was<br />
very anxious to get it, and now I see why, I probably said<br />
some <strong>th</strong>ings in it <strong>th</strong>at did not suit him and he has e<strong>ra</strong>sed, or<br />
had e<strong>ra</strong>sed, a lot of it.<br />
As to <strong>th</strong>e first part, form Green <strong>River</strong> to Uinta <strong>River</strong>, it<br />
appears it has been stolen bodily.<br />
The <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al was written up every evening wi<strong>th</strong> pencil,<br />
but all of it was perfectly legible when I copied it at Fort<br />
Mojave. Of course I can’t fill in <strong>th</strong>e omissions <strong>th</strong>at occur in<br />
your copy of <strong>th</strong>e <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al, but I <strong>th</strong>ink <strong>th</strong>e account I sent you<br />
ten days since will make <strong>th</strong>ings plain to you.<br />
…(1)<br />
As to <strong>th</strong>e <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al in your possession, I care no<strong>th</strong>ing for it.<br />
Keep it or send it back to Washington as you see proper. I<br />
would be very foolish to write a <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al and leave it in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
condition of <strong>th</strong>e copy you send me. Perhaps J.W.P. e<strong>ra</strong>sed <strong>th</strong>e<br />
parts, perhaps some o<strong>th</strong>er person did. I deny its parentage [in<br />
<strong>th</strong>e form it now is]<br />
(Signed) Jack Sumner,<br />
Ve<strong>rn</strong>al, Utah.<br />
(1) The parts of <strong>th</strong>is letter omitted refer to Sumner’s<br />
sickness, etc. , and in no way relate to <strong>th</strong>e subject of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
<strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al.<br />
B<strong>ra</strong>d Dimock<br />
In Reference to “The Changing Rapids of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>—Doris Rapid” by Chris Magirl<br />
and Bob Webb in bqr 16:2<br />
Iread wi<strong>th</strong> great interest in your most recent<br />
issue a scholarly study of <strong>th</strong>e small but intriguing<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>ra</strong>pid now known as “Doris”. The<br />
very first pa<strong>ra</strong>g<strong>ra</strong>ph of <strong>th</strong>e article by Chris Magirl and<br />
Bob Webb includes <strong>th</strong>e sentence: “Though <strong>th</strong>e boat<br />
stayed upright, Doris and <strong>th</strong>e o<strong>th</strong>er passenger were<br />
<strong>th</strong>rown into <strong>th</strong>e water.” I was <strong>th</strong>at “o<strong>th</strong>er passenger”!!<br />
From my limited experience, <strong>th</strong>at little <strong>ra</strong>pid is<br />
unique on <strong>th</strong>e river—as was its namesake. It has<br />
no<strong>th</strong>ing to do wi<strong>th</strong> debris flows—it has all to do wi<strong>th</strong><br />
geology and flood stage. It is dangerous at low water<br />
and a roller coaster at flood stage. I saw it at low water<br />
and will never forget it. It ate <strong>th</strong>e Wen—all sixteen feet<br />
of it. And we never touched bottom, or <strong>th</strong>e sides, or<br />
any<strong>th</strong>ing else.<br />
I suggest <strong>th</strong>e following scenario. An excavated leng<strong>th</strong><br />
of river bottom cut <strong>th</strong>rough an almost horizontal,<br />
erosion-resistant sedimentary bed into softer material, to<br />
form a long, st<strong>ra</strong>ight, deep and narrow pool of water.<br />
High water rushes <strong>th</strong>e leng<strong>th</strong> of <strong>th</strong>e pool, making<br />
normal waves. Low water pours over <strong>th</strong>e lip of <strong>th</strong>e pool<br />
and quietly sets up a circulation of water, downstream at<br />
dep<strong>th</strong>, upstream at <strong>th</strong>e surface—a familiar condition in<br />
many places, but not at such a large scale and leng<strong>th</strong> of<br />
river (half a mile of st<strong>ra</strong>ight level pool below Doris).<br />
In 1940 Doris Nevills and I were lolling on <strong>th</strong>e flat<br />
ste<strong>rn</strong> of <strong>th</strong>e Wen en<strong>jo</strong>ying <strong>th</strong>e quiet scenery. Norm was<br />
rowing. The river stretched calm and peaceful ahead.<br />
“Strolling down <strong>th</strong>e river on a quiet afte<strong>rn</strong>oon” ste<strong>rn</strong><br />
first, watchful, drifting along. Peaceful. So what made<br />
<strong>th</strong>at long, dim ripple ahead We looked. We saw.<br />
St<strong>ra</strong>ight down. The whole river was going st<strong>ra</strong>ight down.<br />
The Wen upended and went full leng<strong>th</strong> st<strong>ra</strong>ight down,<br />
how far I wouldn’t know. I do know <strong>th</strong>e Wen shuddered,<br />
stopped, tu<strong>rn</strong>ed sideways as its natu<strong>ra</strong>l, built-in buoyancy<br />
retu<strong>rn</strong>ed it to <strong>th</strong>e surface.<br />
The agile and ever alert Norm sc<strong>ra</strong>mbled out of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
cockpit, up and over <strong>th</strong>e gunwale so as to force <strong>th</strong>e<br />
emerging Wen to fall back right side up. He was totally<br />
successful in <strong>th</strong>at split second effort.<br />
I found myself spread-eagled, face down on <strong>th</strong>e rear<br />
deck, half over <strong>th</strong>e edge, one hand wi<strong>th</strong> a firm grip on a<br />
safety rope, <strong>th</strong>e o<strong>th</strong>er seemingly anchored in <strong>th</strong>e water.<br />
So I pulled <strong>th</strong>at arm in and up popped a sputtering,<br />
blowing Doris. I had a firm grip on <strong>th</strong>e seat of her pants.<br />
This all went on in deep, deep water. The sixteenfoot<br />
Wen went totally under, but did not touch bottom.<br />
None of <strong>th</strong>e passengers was sc<strong>ra</strong>ped or sc<strong>ra</strong>tched. Not a<br />
bit of blood. It could not have happened in a shallow<br />
debris-flow <strong>ra</strong>pid.<br />
It was a no-line <strong>ra</strong>pid in G<strong>ra</strong>nd.<br />
They <strong>ra</strong>n it just as was planned.<br />
But <strong>th</strong>e hole at <strong>th</strong>e bottom<br />
Reached out and got ’em<br />
And pulled <strong>th</strong>em in by <strong>th</strong>e hand.<br />
There were seve<strong>ra</strong>l verses of <strong>th</strong>is brilliant doggerel.<br />
Milderd Backer Rosa McVey wrote it all down in her<br />
little black book. I wouldn’t blame you if you made no<br />
effort to resurrect it.<br />
John Sou<strong>th</strong>wor<strong>th</strong><br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 7
In Reference to “Dr. Harvey Butchart O<strong>ra</strong>l<br />
History” by Lew Steiger and “Dear Eddy” by<br />
Anonymous in bqr 16:1<br />
Ijust finished reading a copy of <strong>th</strong>e Spring 2003<br />
bqr <strong>th</strong>at someone gave me. That is a very nice<br />
publication you have put toge<strong>th</strong>er. Even as a nonboat<br />
person I en<strong>jo</strong>yed all <strong>th</strong>e articles.<br />
For <strong>th</strong>e record, I would like to correct two errors.<br />
In <strong>th</strong>e great article on Harvey Butchart, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
phonetic spelling was a off a bit in <strong>th</strong>e pa<strong>ra</strong>g<strong>ra</strong>ph<br />
where Harvey was talking about how many miles he<br />
had hiked in <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>, and again in <strong>th</strong>e pa<strong>ra</strong>g<strong>ra</strong>ph<br />
when Harvey was talking about how many of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong>’s named summits he had climbed. In bo<strong>th</strong><br />
cases <strong>th</strong>e correct spelling of <strong>th</strong>e first name he<br />
mentioned is Jim Ohlman (not Tim Oldman).<br />
There was also an article “Dear Eddy” by Anonymous<br />
castigating <strong>th</strong>e gcnp’s Science Center for<br />
permitting <strong>th</strong>e bolting of <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nite Rapid boulders. I<br />
had discussed <strong>th</strong>is issue wi<strong>th</strong> some of <strong>th</strong>e Science<br />
Center staff in March or April. They were extremely<br />
annoyed <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>ese boulders had been bolted. Not<br />
only had <strong>th</strong>ey not permitted <strong>th</strong>e bolting, <strong>th</strong>ey had, in<br />
writing, specifically forbade <strong>th</strong>e boulder bolting. As<br />
Christa mentioned in her article, <strong>th</strong>e Park just doesn’t<br />
have enough money or people to monitor all <strong>th</strong>e goes<br />
on in <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>.<br />
In Reference to “Dr. Harvey Butchart O<strong>ra</strong>l<br />
History” by Lew Steiger in bqr 16:1<br />
Page 30 “Tim Oldman . . . [phonetic spellings]”<br />
This is Jim Ohlman, who, as Harvey said, hiked<br />
an amazing amount in <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>.<br />
Just as <strong>th</strong>ere is a manifest communication gap<br />
between Flagstaff and Utah boaters, so too <strong>th</strong>ere often<br />
seems to be one between boatmen and <strong>th</strong>e most<br />
serious hikers of <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>. There is only<br />
occasional overlap.<br />
An<strong>th</strong>ony Williams<br />
Ken Walters<br />
A Quiet Victory<br />
One of <strong>th</strong>e greatest <strong>jo</strong>ys of a wilde<strong>rn</strong>ess experience<br />
is <strong>th</strong>e opportunity to experience some<strong>th</strong>ing<br />
<strong>th</strong>at is so <strong>ra</strong>re in our hectic, technology driven<br />
lives—natu<strong>ra</strong>l quiet. Due to Senator John McCain’s<br />
swift action, you will still have <strong>th</strong>e opportunity to experience<br />
<strong>th</strong>e stillness of a G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> mo<strong>rn</strong>ing or <strong>th</strong>e<br />
magnificent quiet of <strong>th</strong>e early evening hours.<br />
FAA regulations currently limit tour flights in G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> in summer between 8 am and 6 pm and between<br />
9amand 5 pmin <strong>th</strong>e October <strong>th</strong>rough April period. A<br />
provision on a recent bill facing final votes in <strong>th</strong>e House<br />
and Senate would have allowed small planes and helicopters<br />
to fly over <strong>th</strong>e canyon an hour after sunrise to an<br />
hour before sunset. Think of <strong>th</strong>ose long summer days<br />
and you’ll realize <strong>th</strong>e serious <strong>ra</strong>mifications of <strong>th</strong>is failed<br />
amendment. G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> National Park and environmental<br />
groups vigorously opposed <strong>th</strong>e flight expansion.<br />
As a result, G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> friend, Senator McCain,<br />
stripped <strong>th</strong>e provision from <strong>th</strong>e bill last week.<br />
Curfews on overflights are one of <strong>th</strong>e few gains <strong>th</strong>at<br />
have been made in <strong>th</strong>e battle over air tour limits in<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>. For <strong>th</strong>e moment, <strong>th</strong>eir status is secure,<br />
but back-door amendments such as <strong>th</strong>ese are sure to<br />
re-surface. We’re just barely holding our own in <strong>th</strong>is<br />
struggle <strong>th</strong>at has spanned years. So next time you’re<br />
sitting on a G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> beach sipping your coffee<br />
and en<strong>jo</strong>ying <strong>th</strong>e quiet of <strong>th</strong>e mo<strong>rn</strong>ing, take a moment<br />
to ponder <strong>th</strong>e ongoing battles <strong>th</strong>at wage on <strong>th</strong>is issue<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e exhaustive efforts <strong>th</strong>at are being made just so<br />
<strong>th</strong>at you can have <strong>th</strong>at experience. It can be easy to<br />
forget just how precious <strong>th</strong>ose moments of quiet truly<br />
are and how much <strong>th</strong>ey enrich our lives.<br />
Lynn Hamilton<br />
page 8<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
Changes and Thanks to <strong>th</strong>e Board of Directors<br />
The gcrg board elections are officially closed as of<br />
<strong>th</strong>is writing, and you’ll notice <strong>th</strong>ree new names<br />
on our mas<strong>th</strong>ead: OC Dale, Jocelyn Gibbon and<br />
Jayne Lee. Matt Kaplinski will be retu<strong>rn</strong>ing for a second<br />
term, and Jeri Ledbetter and Bob Dye will remain on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
board for one more year. We really look forward to<br />
working wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e new board of directors. It’s going to be<br />
a challenging and interesting time, however, <strong>th</strong>e board<br />
line-up looks strong. I’m always amazed at <strong>th</strong>e ability of<br />
new board members to come toge<strong>th</strong>er and work effectively,<br />
al<strong>th</strong>ough I suppose I shouldn’t be too surprised as<br />
it’s <strong>ra</strong><strong>th</strong>er akin to good guide dynamics on a river trip –<br />
dealing wi<strong>th</strong> problems intelligently and anticipating<br />
what lies ahead.<br />
Normally, GCRG elects <strong>th</strong>ree new board members<br />
each year, but <strong>th</strong>e recent resignation of Mike Caifa<br />
necessitated choosing <strong>th</strong>e top four. Mike is pursuing<br />
nursing school — time const<strong>ra</strong>ints and distance inhibit<br />
his ability to continue working effectively as a GCRG<br />
board member. We completely understand – after all,<br />
directorships are volunteer positions and yes, <strong>th</strong>ere is life<br />
beyond GCRG! Mike would make ano<strong>th</strong>er perfect<br />
poster boy for <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation’s efforts to <strong>ra</strong>ise<br />
awareness of post-guiding career pa<strong>th</strong>s! Our sincere<br />
<strong>th</strong>anks to Mike for stepping up to <strong>th</strong>e plate and helping<br />
us for <strong>th</strong>e past year. He was a great addition to <strong>th</strong>e board<br />
and really we’ll miss working wi<strong>th</strong> him.<br />
I would like to extend my sincere g<strong>ra</strong>titude to <strong>th</strong>e<br />
o<strong>th</strong>er outgoing board member, JP Running, as well as to<br />
outgoing GCRG president, Michael Ghiglieri. Thankfully<br />
<strong>th</strong>ere is no need to say goodbye to Matt Kaplinski as<br />
he’ll be around for yet ano<strong>th</strong>er term. It’s been an<br />
extremely busy yet educational year wi<strong>th</strong> experimental<br />
flows, CRMP meetings, <strong>th</strong>e GTS, and many more issues<br />
and activities <strong>th</strong>at required a concerted effort from<br />
everyone. Through it all, we worked exceedingly well<br />
toge<strong>th</strong>er and our coope<strong>ra</strong>tive efforts were very productive.<br />
As “trip leader” of GCRG, president Michael<br />
Ghiglieri was superlative and brought to <strong>th</strong>e table his<br />
extensive knowledge of guiding, river politics, ecology<br />
and an overriding sense of <strong>th</strong>e true need for protection<br />
and preservation of <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong> corridor over <strong>th</strong>e<br />
long term. His in-dep<strong>th</strong> involvement along <strong>th</strong>e way was<br />
crucial to our success, his penchant for creative analogies<br />
gave us fresh perspectives, and his leadership capabilities<br />
were strong. We sincerely hope he’ll continue to<br />
stay involved after his term ends. Additionally, it was<br />
wonderful working wi<strong>th</strong> JP Running over <strong>th</strong>e past two<br />
years. He provided important balance to <strong>th</strong>e board, his<br />
contributions were many and he’s an all around great<br />
person, dedicated to <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> and <strong>th</strong>e river.<br />
Ove<strong>ra</strong>ll, one of <strong>th</strong>e <strong>jo</strong>ys of working for GCRG is <strong>th</strong>e<br />
ability to work closely wi<strong>th</strong> such wonderful individuals.<br />
Their intelligence, knowledge and passion for <strong>th</strong>e river<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e canyon carry us onwards. They may be “leaving<br />
<strong>th</strong>eir posts” so to speak, but stewardship and involvement<br />
is in <strong>th</strong>eir blood. We know we’ll be seeing <strong>th</strong>em<br />
again and sharing ideas (and maybe more beer and<br />
pizza). It’s been a privilege and even a whole lot of fun.<br />
Lynn Hamilton<br />
Executive Director<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 9
The Changing Rapids of <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>—<br />
President Harding Rapid<br />
Is <strong>th</strong>ere a more interesting <strong>ra</strong>pid in G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
<strong>th</strong>an President Harding It isn’t especially challenging<br />
whitewater, yet it seems like more boat<br />
wrecks have occurred here <strong>th</strong>an in any o<strong>th</strong>er <strong>ra</strong>pid wi<strong>th</strong><br />
<strong>th</strong>e same level of difficulty. Its current name isn’t its first,<br />
and doubt was cast early on conce<strong>rn</strong>ing its antiquity.<br />
Finally, <strong>th</strong>e run here has changed and not because of a<br />
debris flow.<br />
Figure 1 A.. “Boulder Rapid”—January 17, 1890.<br />
The fuzzy photog<strong>ra</strong>ph of <strong>th</strong>e boulder in what is now called<br />
President Harding Rapid, taken by Robert Brewster Stanton<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> his “Detective Came<strong>ra</strong>”<br />
(Stanton RS 4D, courtesy of <strong>th</strong>e National Archives).<br />
appeared in Stanton’s publications, was as elusive as<br />
Kolb’s memory. Because <strong>th</strong>e usgs expedition concluded<br />
<strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e rock had fallen into <strong>th</strong>e river between 1911 and<br />
1923 (Brian, 1992, p. 32, says “about 1910”), many<br />
passing <strong>th</strong>is point have looked up to <strong>th</strong>e right-side cliff<br />
to fit it back into one of <strong>th</strong>e many depressions up <strong>th</strong>ere.<br />
Stop looking up <strong>th</strong>ere, unless you like <strong>th</strong>e view; <strong>th</strong>at<br />
rock has been in <strong>th</strong>e river for a long time, and it came<br />
out of <strong>th</strong>e unnamed canyon over on river left, t<strong>ra</strong>nsported<br />
by a long-ago debris flow.<br />
There are <strong>th</strong>ree runs here: right, left, and center. The<br />
<strong>th</strong>ree have very different consequences, depending on<br />
water level. The usgs expedition had <strong>th</strong>e first documented<br />
accident here—Elwyn Blake tried to go right but<br />
instead tangled wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e wave rolling off <strong>th</strong>e rock. His<br />
boat flipped onto its side, <strong>th</strong>rowing Blake clear, but he<br />
quickly swam back and climbed in (Blake, 1923). The<br />
most famous incident here, which occurred during <strong>th</strong>e<br />
epic swim of Bill Beer and John Daggett in 1955, should<br />
have changed <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>pid’s name again. Beer swam right,<br />
Daggett went center, and <strong>th</strong>e rock scored its second<br />
victory. Daggett was swept under <strong>th</strong>e left side of <strong>th</strong>e rock<br />
and was tempo<strong>ra</strong>rily pinned; when he emerged, he had<br />
numerous cuts to his head and hands (Beer, 1995, p.<br />
71–74). Beer compared <strong>th</strong>e rock to a cheese g<strong>ra</strong>ter, and<br />
his casual observation reveals <strong>th</strong>e antiquity of <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>pid.<br />
The rock had to be in <strong>th</strong>e current for many years to<br />
develop <strong>th</strong>ose sharp flutes.<br />
Over <strong>th</strong>e years, President Harding Rapid has<br />
become almost legendary in terms of <strong>th</strong>ose who have<br />
The unusual name for <strong>th</strong>is <strong>ra</strong>pid comes courtesy of<br />
<strong>th</strong>e U.S. Geological Survey expedition of 1923. The<br />
night before <strong>th</strong>eir portage of Soap Creek Rapid, <strong>th</strong>ey<br />
tuned into khj <strong>ra</strong>dio in Los Angeles and heard <strong>th</strong>at President<br />
Warren Harding had died. Claude Birdseye, expedition<br />
leader, decided to take a day of rest on <strong>th</strong>e day of<br />
<strong>th</strong>e fune<strong>ra</strong>l, which coincided wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e expedition’s<br />
arrival at a little <strong>ra</strong>pid formed around a large rock in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
center of <strong>th</strong>e channel. Emery Kolb, head boatman, and<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> vete<strong>ra</strong>n, did not remember <strong>th</strong>is limestone<br />
block in <strong>th</strong>e river from his 1911 trip (Freeman,<br />
1923). They decided to name <strong>th</strong>e little <strong>ra</strong>pid for <strong>th</strong>e<br />
just-deceased Harding.<br />
Kolb’s memory was faulty. Robert Brewster Stanton<br />
saw <strong>th</strong>e boulder (Smi<strong>th</strong> and C<strong>ra</strong>mpton, 1987, p.<br />
137–138), photog<strong>ra</strong>phed it (Figure 1), and even named<br />
his <strong>ra</strong>pid number 160 “Boulder Rapid” in his unpublished<br />
notes (Webb, 1996). The name, which never<br />
Figure 1 B. “Boulder Rapid”—February 19, 1992.<br />
Approximate match of Stanton’s photog<strong>ra</strong>ph of <strong>th</strong>e boulder,<br />
taken from a boat bobbing in <strong>th</strong>e eddy. No differences can be<br />
interpreted from <strong>th</strong>e match<br />
(Steve Tha<strong>rn</strong>strom, Stake 2567).<br />
page 10<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
Figure 2. A. President Harding Rapid—October 7, 1982.<br />
Riparian vegetation encroached on <strong>th</strong>e formerly barren<br />
banks after ope<strong>ra</strong>tion of Glen <strong>Canyon</strong> Dam began in 1963<br />
(Raymond M. Tu<strong>rn</strong>er, Stake 677).<br />
Figure 2 B President Harding Rapid—October 19, 1983<br />
A debris flow occurred during <strong>th</strong>e summer of 1983, after<br />
<strong>th</strong>e large dam release had ended. Some boulders t<strong>ra</strong>nsported<br />
from <strong>th</strong>e canyon on river left were about <strong>th</strong>e size of<br />
<strong>th</strong>e rock in <strong>th</strong>e middle of <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>pid<br />
(Raymond M. Tu<strong>rn</strong>er).<br />
lackadaisically entered its tongue. One commonly used<br />
river guide (Stevens, 1983) <strong>ra</strong>tes it a “4,” but <strong>th</strong>is <strong>ra</strong>pid<br />
is one of <strong>th</strong>e few in G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>th</strong>at requires a<br />
move after entry. One incident, regularly repeated,<br />
involved clueless boatmen, a flipped boat, and shakenup<br />
passengers. When rescuers suggested to <strong>th</strong>e boatmen<br />
<strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>ey calm <strong>th</strong>eir passengers by having <strong>th</strong>em hike<br />
Saddle <strong>Canyon</strong>, <strong>th</strong>e boatmen reportedly responded:<br />
“Where is Saddle <strong>Canyon</strong>” On one trip we were on,<br />
one boat casually entered center, <strong>th</strong>en ste<strong>rn</strong>-walked on<br />
<strong>th</strong>e massive wave <strong>th</strong>at forms at 45,000 cubic feet per<br />
second (cfs), but luckily didn’t flip.<br />
Depending on when in <strong>th</strong>e 20<strong>th</strong> century river<br />
runners encountered it, <strong>th</strong>e run here has changed. At<br />
high water levels, some have successfully run <strong>th</strong>e center<br />
waves; Reilly, who passed <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>pid at a discharge of<br />
about 125,000 cfs in 1957, reported “a slick bulge…wi<strong>th</strong><br />
just a suggestion of a hole below it” (Reilly, 1957, p. 9).<br />
At low water, <strong>th</strong>e first observers report <strong>th</strong>e run was on<br />
<strong>th</strong>e right; Stanton’s photog<strong>ra</strong>ph (Figure 1A), taken at<br />
about 5,000 cfs, shows only a narrow slot on <strong>th</strong>e left.<br />
The left side was briefly narrowed following a 1983<br />
debris flow (Figure 2), but subsequent high releases from<br />
1984 <strong>th</strong>rough 1986 quickly widened it. Recently, rockfalls<br />
<strong>th</strong>at began in <strong>th</strong>e winter of 1998 (Webb et al.,<br />
2000) narrowed <strong>th</strong>e low-water run on <strong>th</strong>e right, forcing<br />
all but <strong>th</strong>e most adventuresome river runners left. We<br />
predict relatively frequent debris flows here, suggesting<br />
<strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e run will eventually retu<strong>rn</strong> to <strong>th</strong>e right side.<br />
References:<br />
Beer, B., 1995, We swam <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>: St. Thomas,<br />
Virgin Islands, 15 Minute Press, 171 p.<br />
Blake, H.E., Jr., 1923, 1923 G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> of <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do<br />
<strong>River</strong> trip, Diary of Elwyn Blake: Monticello, Utah, <strong>th</strong>e San<br />
Juan Record, September 6, 1923, typescript manuscript, p.<br />
6–7.<br />
Brian, N., 1992, <strong>River</strong> to rim: Flagstaff, Arizona, Ear<strong>th</strong>quest<br />
Press, 176 p.<br />
Freeman, L.R., 1923, Diary of <strong>th</strong>e U.S.G.S. G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
voyage: College Park, Maryland, National Archives, unpublished<br />
diary, 78 p.<br />
Reilly, P.T., 1957, Log of P.T. Reilly for Marble-G<strong>ra</strong>nd t<strong>ra</strong>verse,<br />
June, 1957: Flagstaff, Nor<strong>th</strong>e<strong>rn</strong> Arizona University, Cline<br />
Lib<strong>ra</strong>ry, Special Collections, unpublished manuscript, 18 p.<br />
Smi<strong>th</strong>, D.L., and C<strong>ra</strong>mpton, C.G., 1987, The Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong><br />
survey: Salt Lake City, Howe Bro<strong>th</strong>ers Books, 305 p.<br />
Stevens, L., The Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong> in G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>, A guide:<br />
Flagstaff, Arizona, Red Lake Books, 115 p.<br />
Webb, R.H., 1996, G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>: A century of change: Tucson,<br />
University of Arizona Press, 290 p.<br />
Webb, R.H., Griffi<strong>th</strong>s, P.G., Melis, T.S., and Hartley, D.R.,<br />
2000, Sediment delivery by ungaged tributaries of <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do<br />
<strong>River</strong> in G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>: U.S. Geological Survey Water<br />
Resources Investigations Report 00-4055, 67 p.<br />
Bob Webb and Chris Magirl<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 11
The End of “Changing<br />
Rapids”<br />
Dear bqr reader: This will be our last contribution<br />
to <strong>th</strong>e Boatman’s Quarterly Review on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
subject of changing <strong>ra</strong>pids in G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>.<br />
We recently signed a cont<strong>ra</strong>ct wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e University of<br />
Utah Press to do a book on <strong>th</strong>e nature of <strong>ra</strong>pids and<br />
changes in <strong>th</strong>e ones along <strong>th</strong>e Green <strong>River</strong> downstream<br />
from Jensen, <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong> in Westwater,<br />
Cata<strong>ra</strong>ct, and G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>s, and <strong>th</strong>e San Juan<br />
<strong>River</strong>. It will be a collection of <strong>th</strong>e articles we’ve done<br />
for bqr, The Confluence, and o<strong>th</strong>er publications, as<br />
well as articles yet to be written, all combined into a<br />
(hopefully) readable book. Look for it in late 2004 or<br />
(more likely) 2005. We <strong>th</strong>ank you for allowing us to<br />
indulge in lite<strong>ra</strong>ry allusions, allite<strong>ra</strong>tions, and just<br />
plain silliness on <strong>th</strong>ese pages while conveying information<br />
on <strong>th</strong>e whitewater <strong>th</strong>at we all en<strong>jo</strong>y.<br />
GCRG Fall Meeting<br />
The gcrg Fall Meeting will be held at <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Weste<strong>rn</strong> <strong>River</strong> Expeditions warehouse in<br />
Fredonia, az on Saturday, november 16<strong>th</strong>.<br />
We‚ll start at 10:00 a.m. wi<strong>th</strong> talks <strong>th</strong>roughout <strong>th</strong>e day<br />
on a variety of prog<strong>ra</strong>ms and issues: <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do<br />
<strong>River</strong> Management Plan, historic boat preservation<br />
progress, <strong>th</strong>e experimental flows and <strong>th</strong>e status of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Humpback Chub recovery efforts among o<strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>ings.<br />
Count on lunch, dinner and a good party on<br />
Saturday night. It‚ll be a great chance to lea<strong>rn</strong> more<br />
about some of <strong>th</strong>ese issues, discuss what‚s important to<br />
you and see your friends before everyone scatters for<br />
<strong>th</strong>e winter. We‚ll send out a postcard wi<strong>th</strong> more information<br />
on <strong>th</strong>e gcrg Fall Meeting as we get a bit<br />
closer. But pencil us in and count on being <strong>th</strong>ere! It’s<br />
going to be a super event!<br />
Bob Webb and Chris Magirl<br />
Wanted: Boating Stories<br />
Do you have a funny boating story A manuscript<br />
<strong>th</strong>at is ga<strong>th</strong>ering dust, because no<br />
respectable magazine would touch it wi<strong>th</strong> a<br />
ten-foot pole Do you perhaps know fellow wordsmi<strong>th</strong>s,<br />
who wield oar and paddle as deftly as a pen<br />
Ra<strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>an biting my nails, waiting for <strong>th</strong>e publication<br />
of my new book, I decided to sink my tee<strong>th</strong><br />
into a new project. Please consider contributing your<br />
eloquence and wit to an an<strong>th</strong>ology of river pieces wi<strong>th</strong><br />
<strong>th</strong>e working sub-title <strong>River</strong> Runners‚ Tales of Hilarity<br />
and Misadventure, which I am currently putting<br />
toge<strong>th</strong>er.<br />
Each essay should be between 2,000 and 5,000<br />
words, creative non-fiction (meaning: flaunt your style,<br />
but stick to <strong>th</strong>e tru<strong>th</strong>), <strong>th</strong>e setting a stretch of weste<strong>rn</strong><br />
river, whitewater or flat. Encounters wi<strong>th</strong> wildlife<br />
(including tourists) or people, trips gone haywire,<br />
disasters on shore or afloat—any<strong>th</strong>ing should be game.<br />
The collection will incorpo<strong>ra</strong>te aspects of <strong>th</strong>e epic, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
“Bildungsroman”, quest nar<strong>ra</strong>tive, screwball comedy<br />
and Texas tall-tale. Your (prefe<strong>ra</strong>bly unpublished)<br />
piece could be highbrow or low; retro or postmode<strong>rn</strong>;<br />
mere fluff, or containing a “serious message”. It does<br />
not matter, as long as it’s offbeat and original. Sort of<br />
“Monty Py<strong>th</strong>on meets Lewis and Clark”. Previous<br />
publishing experience is desired.<br />
If <strong>th</strong>e <strong>th</strong>ing I cobbled toge<strong>th</strong>er for <strong>th</strong>is minor<br />
masterpiece of revisionist adventure writing is any<br />
indication, <strong>th</strong>e writing should be fun, a surefire antidote<br />
to our beastly obsessions wi<strong>th</strong> royalties, sales,<br />
reviews and <strong>th</strong>e meaning of Meaning.<br />
I don’t have a publisher yet—but you know <strong>th</strong>e<br />
game: As soon as I can bait <strong>th</strong>e proposal wi<strong>th</strong> catchy<br />
names, <strong>th</strong>ey will bite. If you know of any presses (or<br />
agent) willing to take on such a work of repressed<br />
genius, please let me know.<br />
Contact me at nedludinmoab@yahoo.com.<br />
Michael Engelhard<br />
page 12<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
A New Cookbook<br />
Sing for <strong>th</strong>e <strong>River</strong><br />
Aboatman’s cookbook is now available. This<br />
collection of recipes, for bo<strong>th</strong> on <strong>th</strong>e river and<br />
off, is written by AzRA guide, Jon “Jelly Roll”<br />
Baker. There is interesting reading in <strong>th</strong>e Forward, and<br />
Dutch Oven, Grill, and Chopping <strong>Guides</strong>. The recipes<br />
include soups, salads, main courses wi<strong>th</strong> and wi<strong>th</strong>out<br />
meat, side dishes and some desserts. All <strong>th</strong>e recipes<br />
would work well on <strong>th</strong>e river and <strong>th</strong>is book should be<br />
a welcome addition to any adventurer’s kitchen<br />
whe<strong>th</strong>er at home or not. These recipes are a great<br />
selection to choose from for your next private trip or<br />
pot luck!<br />
The cost is $14.95 plus $2.00 shipping and<br />
handling. Contact: Jelly Roll Baker, Box 1616,<br />
Flagstaff, AZ 86002<br />
Yee-Hah! Sing for <strong>th</strong>e <strong>River</strong>, A Collection of <strong>River</strong><br />
Songs has arrived! This songbook contains 55<br />
songs, all of which, in some way, are about<br />
rivers. The melody, lyrics and guitar chords are<br />
included, as well as a brief glossary of musical terms.<br />
You’ll be singing popular hit songs and classic river<br />
favorites. Every<strong>th</strong>ing from t<strong>ra</strong>ditional songs, such as<br />
Shenandoah, and Peace Like a <strong>River</strong> to Arizona folk<br />
musician Katie Lee’s Muddy <strong>River</strong> and Pore Colly Raddy<br />
to Robert Hunter and Jerry Garcia’s Ripple, and Brokedown<br />
Palace, to J. C. Fogerty’s Proud Mary and Green<br />
<strong>River</strong> are included.<br />
Boatmen and<br />
river runners will<br />
get a chuckle from<br />
<strong>River</strong> Waltz and<br />
Half-Day Float<br />
and appreciate <strong>th</strong>e<br />
haunting beauty<br />
of Santa Elena<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> and Banks<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e Guadalupe.<br />
The songs and <strong>th</strong>e<br />
stories <strong>th</strong>ey tell<br />
are sure to please.<br />
The pen and<br />
ink illust<strong>ra</strong>tions<br />
<strong>th</strong>roughout <strong>th</strong>e<br />
songbook, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
clarity of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
score, and <strong>th</strong>e size<br />
and layout of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
book contribute<br />
to a quality product. It will fit into an “ammo” can or a<br />
guitar case. It’s perfect to take on a shuttle or multiday<br />
river trip.<br />
You can help to protect and preserve our nation’s<br />
rivers while singing. A portion of <strong>th</strong>e proceeds from<br />
<strong>th</strong>e sale of each book is donated to American <strong>River</strong>s, a<br />
leading national river conservation organization.<br />
To order please send check or money order for<br />
$24.95 for each book ordered, plus shipping and<br />
handling charges ($5 for <strong>th</strong>e first book and $2 for each<br />
additional) and 7.7% sales tax for books shipped to<br />
Arizona addresses ($1.92 per book) to:<br />
Yee-Hah! Inc., P.O. Box 3676, Scottsdale, AZ<br />
85271. Phone 480-994-1140.<br />
Orders may also be placed via web site<br />
www.singfor<strong>th</strong>eriver.com. Retailers are invited to<br />
contact us for discount information.<br />
Doro<strong>th</strong>y Lees Riddle<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 13
Depression and My Life<br />
Depression is a fascinating condition. There is<br />
a great deal of value in <strong>th</strong>inking of it as a disease.<br />
For one <strong>th</strong>ing, it responds very well to medication.<br />
Fur<strong>th</strong>er supporting <strong>th</strong>e disease concept is <strong>th</strong>e<br />
finding <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e b<strong>ra</strong>in chemistry of depressed people is<br />
different from <strong>th</strong>at of o<strong>th</strong>er people and <strong>th</strong>at it is possible<br />
to find <strong>th</strong>e same biochemical differences in <strong>th</strong>e b<strong>ra</strong>ins of<br />
animals who appear “depressed”. 1 Depression is a g<strong>ra</strong>ve<br />
and life <strong>th</strong>reatening illness—much more common <strong>th</strong>an<br />
we recognize. There is a connection between <strong>th</strong>e blues<br />
and depression, but <strong>th</strong>e difference is like <strong>th</strong>e difference<br />
between <strong>th</strong>e sniffles and pneumonia. A person wi<strong>th</strong> clinical<br />
depression is one who feels almost no <strong>jo</strong>y in life,<br />
who has no hope, no ambition, who feels stuck, powerless,<br />
and perennially sad—and who <strong>th</strong>inks <strong>th</strong>is is <strong>th</strong>e<br />
normal way to feel. You cannot connect to o<strong>th</strong>er people,<br />
you have distressing physical symptoms, You can’t<br />
concent<strong>ra</strong>te, you feel guilty, wor<strong>th</strong>less, hopeless, and you<br />
<strong>th</strong>ink about suicide. 2<br />
I got it, and I guess a lot of o<strong>th</strong>er people do too, but I<br />
can only relate my story. The Whale Foundation<br />
<strong>th</strong>ought it would be helpful to print a first hand account.<br />
I don’t know exactly when it started, but, knowing<br />
what I know now, it was rearing its ugly head early in my<br />
childhood. The <strong>Canyon</strong> and <strong>th</strong>e river became a refuge<br />
for me wi<strong>th</strong>out my even realizing it. There were times I<br />
would leave it for a “real” <strong>jo</strong>b, but my life would go into<br />
a downward spi<strong>ra</strong>l and I would eventually seek refuge<br />
and retu<strong>rn</strong> to <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>, not realizing what was<br />
happening. No<strong>th</strong>ing made sense, no<strong>th</strong>ing made me<br />
happy, and one day I noticed <strong>th</strong>at I had stopped feeling.<br />
Looking at <strong>th</strong>e walls no longer had an effect on me, like<br />
I was dead inside. I saw a <strong>th</strong>e<strong>ra</strong>pist at one point. She<br />
diagnosed me wi<strong>th</strong> depression ( I knew I was depressed!)<br />
and suggested anti-depressants. That was out of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
question for me—I told myself I could beat <strong>th</strong>is—I just<br />
had to try harder. .<br />
Ever so slowly <strong>th</strong>e disease creeps into your b<strong>ra</strong>in like<br />
a dark cloud, until it is so grey in <strong>th</strong>ere, being alive has<br />
no meaning. At <strong>th</strong>e times it eased up I would venture<br />
for<strong>th</strong> and start a new career, getting involved in life. It<br />
seemed if I stayed fanatically consumed wi<strong>th</strong> what I was<br />
doing I could keep <strong>th</strong>e demon at bay. O<strong>th</strong>er times I<br />
would sink into a depressed le<strong>th</strong>argy, exhausted by my<br />
own energy.<br />
I had an ove<strong>ra</strong>ll feeling <strong>th</strong>at life was slipping away.<br />
But <strong>th</strong>e harder I tried to get a grip, <strong>th</strong>e fur<strong>th</strong>er I had to<br />
reach. My friends drifted away. I was no fun to be wi<strong>th</strong><br />
and I did not want to be seen in <strong>th</strong>is state. I c<strong>ra</strong>ved<br />
friendship and support but <strong>th</strong>e nature of <strong>th</strong>e disease<br />
makes it impossible. I felt so wor<strong>th</strong>less, so unwor<strong>th</strong>y. I<br />
<strong>th</strong>ought I was affecting o<strong>th</strong>er people negatively by my<br />
presence. At first people would say "snap out of it" or<br />
"get over it". Truly <strong>th</strong>at is <strong>th</strong>e most painful and cruelest<br />
<strong>th</strong>ing one can say to someone wi<strong>th</strong> depression.<br />
The river, <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>, and <strong>th</strong>e community kept me<br />
alive until I reached <strong>th</strong>e point of no retu<strong>rn</strong>—<strong>th</strong>ere was<br />
no more reason to be alive. I couldn’t feel any<strong>th</strong>ing<br />
anymore and even <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> couldn’t touch<br />
me. I had lost my friends and support from being down<br />
for so long and I was having trouble getting along wi<strong>th</strong><br />
o<strong>th</strong>er crew members, every<strong>th</strong>ing was so distorted, I was<br />
clinging despe<strong>ra</strong>tely to little <strong>th</strong>ings to hold me toge<strong>th</strong>er<br />
and driving o<strong>th</strong>ers c<strong>ra</strong>zy.<br />
I called <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation one day, in a half<br />
hearted attempt to reach out and Sandy Reiff g<strong>ra</strong>bbed<br />
me, saw me immediately at her inconvenience, and for<br />
<strong>th</strong>e first time told me what was going on and what I had<br />
to do about it—and gave me hope. She not only<br />
ar<strong>ra</strong>nged for fur<strong>th</strong>er help but followed up on it, which is<br />
important because when one does reach out like <strong>th</strong>at, it<br />
is in a moment of clarity <strong>th</strong>at might not happen again<br />
and it’s very easy to slip back into oblivion. She got me<br />
pointed on a road to help myself. I do not know where it<br />
will take me but I have some<strong>th</strong>ing I haven’t had<br />
before—hope and understanding. Its unbelievably<br />
painful and my point of all <strong>th</strong>is is to maybe help anyone<br />
else as well. Besides, misery loves company.<br />
Depression is a <strong>th</strong>ief, It robs you of <strong>th</strong>e ability to<br />
<strong>th</strong>ink clearly, it steals your memory. It stole a large part<br />
of my life, and my self confidence. The ability to <strong>th</strong>ink<br />
good <strong>th</strong>ings about yourself goes away, as if <strong>th</strong>ere is a hole<br />
in your persona. In <strong>th</strong>e spaces it leaves perfectly placed<br />
fears <strong>th</strong>at fur<strong>th</strong>er pa<strong>ra</strong>lyze you. It boils down to two<br />
choices, reach out, or kill yourself. If <strong>th</strong>ere is someone to<br />
hear when you reach out you may be saved It’s a very<br />
long road as yet I have no idea of how long.<br />
Depression is not an emotion in itself. It is not<br />
sadness or grief, it is an illness. When you feel your<br />
worst—sad, self absorbed and helpless—you are experiencing<br />
what people wi<strong>th</strong> depression experience, but <strong>th</strong>ey<br />
don’t recover from <strong>th</strong>ose moods wi<strong>th</strong>out help. It’s Hell.<br />
The longer it goes on <strong>th</strong>e longer it takes to tu<strong>rn</strong> around.<br />
If you can relate to <strong>th</strong>ese feelings please get help. They<br />
say its cu<strong>ra</strong>ble, it can be manageable.<br />
If you know someone who could fit into <strong>th</strong>e category<br />
of depression help <strong>th</strong>em to get help. Its a matter of life<br />
or dea<strong>th</strong>. I am very g<strong>ra</strong>teful to Sandy and for <strong>th</strong>e Whale<br />
Foundation. I miss Whale. He is saving my butt (again).<br />
Anonymous<br />
Foot notes 1&2: Breaking <strong>th</strong>e Patte<strong>rn</strong>s of Depression,<br />
Michael D. Yapko<br />
page 14<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
Back of <strong>th</strong>e Boat—<br />
The Whale Foundation News Bulletin<br />
The Kenton Grua Memorial Scholarship<br />
Please <strong>jo</strong>in <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation in cong<strong>ra</strong>tulating<br />
<strong>th</strong>e first round of <strong>th</strong>e Kenton Grua Memorial<br />
Scholarship recipients for <strong>th</strong>e 2003–2004 academic<br />
year. These <strong>th</strong>ree individuals were selected from a group<br />
of exceptional applicants. We compliment <strong>th</strong>em on <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
commitment to excellence and wish <strong>th</strong>em well in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
pursuit of <strong>th</strong>eir goals. This year <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation<br />
will present <strong>th</strong>ree $1000 scholarships to <strong>th</strong>e following<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong> <strong>Guides</strong>:<br />
Michael Caifa<br />
High Desert Adventures<br />
Working towards a Nursing Degree<br />
Rick DuCharme<br />
OARS<br />
Nursing School<br />
Jill Dassing<br />
AZRA<br />
Updating Nursing License in USA<br />
Wi<strong>th</strong> continued support, <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation will<br />
award The Kenton Grua Memorial Scholarship on an<br />
annual basis. The deadline for <strong>th</strong>e 2004–2005 applications<br />
will be April 1, 2004. Please <strong>th</strong>ink about your<br />
educational goals and apply next year.<br />
AzRA Sets The Pace<br />
The Whale Foundation would like to commend az<strong>ra</strong> as<br />
being a leader among <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> Outfitters in<br />
providing heal<strong>th</strong> services for its employees. They are now<br />
offering employees <strong>th</strong>e choice of receiving services<br />
<strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e Guidance Center and <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e Whale<br />
Foundation. Through ei<strong>th</strong>er provider az<strong>ra</strong> is footing half<br />
<strong>th</strong>e bill for <strong>th</strong>eir employees. Of course, billing is submitted<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> no reference to <strong>th</strong>e person receiving any such<br />
service. The Whale Foundation has already begun<br />
receiving calls and working <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>is prog<strong>ra</strong>m. Thanks<br />
az<strong>ra</strong>, and we hope o<strong>th</strong>er outfitters follow your lead!<br />
The Boatman Hotline<br />
So far in 2003 we have been able to serve over fourteen<br />
guides in need wi<strong>th</strong> over forty hours of service. The<br />
Whale Foundation has a variety of service providers. We<br />
now have specialists in <strong>th</strong>e mental heal<strong>th</strong> field, physical<br />
and massage <strong>th</strong>e<strong>ra</strong>pists and medical specialists. We are<br />
also expanding into career and financial counseling. If<br />
you need help in any way please contact <strong>th</strong>e Whale<br />
Foundation at our confidential hotline. Toll free at 1-<br />
866-773-0773.<br />
Save <strong>th</strong>e Date!<br />
Mark your calendars for <strong>th</strong>e second annual Whale Foundation<br />
Wingding, February 7, 2004. If you were <strong>th</strong>ere<br />
last year, you know it is not to be missed. If you werent<br />
<strong>th</strong>ere...come find out what all <strong>th</strong>e talk was about!<br />
The Whale Foundation Hotline Q & A<br />
(Why Haven’t You Called)<br />
Q: What happens when you call <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation<br />
Hotline toll free at 1-866-773-0773<br />
A: You will reach a confidential message machine or a<br />
t<strong>ra</strong>ined triage specialist. This person will answer<br />
your questions, determine who will best be able to<br />
assist you and schedule an initial appointment.<br />
Q: If I leave a message on <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation<br />
Hotline, how soon will <strong>th</strong>e triage person retu<strong>rn</strong> my call<br />
A: We answer our calls wi<strong>th</strong>in 24 hours. We know<br />
leaving a message may be hard but PLEASE do it so<br />
we can back to you as soon as possible.<br />
Q: Does <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation only have specialists<br />
in <strong>th</strong>e mental heal<strong>th</strong> field<br />
A: That is not <strong>th</strong>e case at all. The Whale Foundation<br />
has professionals in <strong>th</strong>e physical heal<strong>th</strong> field, from<br />
massage and physical <strong>th</strong>e<strong>ra</strong>pists to a variety of medical<br />
specialists who may assist you. We are currently<br />
working on refining and expanding into <strong>th</strong>e career<br />
t<strong>ra</strong>nsition counseling and financial planning.<br />
Q: Do I have to pay for <strong>th</strong>e services provided <strong>th</strong>rough<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation<br />
A: We ask <strong>th</strong>at each person pay what <strong>th</strong>ey can. Many of<br />
our providers will work wi<strong>th</strong> you on an individual basis.<br />
Q: Who will know <strong>th</strong>at I have called <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation<br />
A: No one except <strong>th</strong>e intake counselor and <strong>th</strong>e persons<br />
providing service. The service portion is entirely<br />
sepa<strong>ra</strong>te from <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation.<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 15
Q: What if <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation doesn’t have a<br />
provider who can help me<br />
A: We have many professionals who are providers.<br />
This situation probably will not happen. If it does,<br />
we will endeavor to help you find an appropriate<br />
source of help.<br />
Q: Can you just give me a list of providers so I can<br />
contact <strong>th</strong>em directly<br />
A: No. The list of providers is confidential and <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Whale Foundation needs to keep it <strong>th</strong>at way. Please<br />
use <strong>th</strong>e procedures herein to obtain services <strong>th</strong>rough<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation. The professionals <strong>th</strong>at are<br />
supporting <strong>th</strong>e guiding community are working in<br />
conjunction wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation. You have<br />
to talk to <strong>th</strong>e Whale Foundation first, <strong>th</strong>is way we<br />
can match you wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e service provider <strong>th</strong>at meets<br />
your needs <strong>th</strong>e best!<br />
We ask <strong>th</strong>at all of you <strong>th</strong>at are in need please call <strong>th</strong>e<br />
hotline at 1-866-773-0773. So far <strong>th</strong>is year we have<br />
had <strong>th</strong>e opportunity to serve over fourteen individuals.<br />
If you need help, please call <strong>th</strong>e hotline. That is what<br />
we are here for!<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> You<strong>th</strong> Season A Success!<br />
There are many ways in which to measure a<br />
successful season working wi<strong>th</strong> you<strong>th</strong> on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
rivers and in <strong>th</strong>e canyons of <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do<br />
Plateau. Perhaps it is <strong>th</strong>e phenomenal guides who share<br />
<strong>th</strong>eir wisdom and en<strong>th</strong>usiasm about a place while<br />
helping you<strong>th</strong> discover new <strong>th</strong>ings about <strong>th</strong>emselves. Or<br />
it could be <strong>th</strong>e you<strong>th</strong> who bring <strong>th</strong>ese same guides to<br />
tears wi<strong>th</strong> laughter and g<strong>ra</strong>tefulness. It could be <strong>th</strong>e<br />
you<strong>th</strong> sharing a geology presentation wi<strong>th</strong> o<strong>th</strong>er you<strong>th</strong>,<br />
lea<strong>rn</strong>ing leave-no-t<strong>ra</strong>ce principles, or just feeling <strong>th</strong>e<br />
freedom to be silly.<br />
In June, participants on <strong>th</strong>e Native American You<strong>th</strong><br />
Artist Trip spent seven days wi<strong>th</strong> artists Shonto Begay<br />
and Raechel Running, painting, d<strong>ra</strong>wing, and playing on<br />
<strong>th</strong>e San Juan <strong>River</strong>. Each student received art supplies<br />
and a <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al to take wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>em. At <strong>th</strong>e end of <strong>th</strong>e trip<br />
<strong>th</strong>ese <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>als revealed d<strong>ra</strong>wings of rock art, yucca and<br />
port<strong>ra</strong>its of new friends.<br />
This year’s G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> trip hosted students from<br />
four different states and four high schools in Flagstaff. By<br />
<strong>th</strong>e end of <strong>th</strong>e trip, seve<strong>ra</strong>l participants wanted to<br />
become boatmen. One, who had just g<strong>ra</strong>duated from<br />
high school, got an AzRA assistant slot after retu<strong>rn</strong>ing<br />
from <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> You<strong>th</strong> trip. The following was<br />
submitted by Whitney Roberts, who will be a senior <strong>th</strong>is<br />
fall at Flagstaff High School and was a participant on<br />
<strong>th</strong>e lower half of G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> You<strong>th</strong>’s June trip.<br />
“G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> You<strong>th</strong> made it possible for me to experience<br />
one of <strong>th</strong>e seven natu<strong>ra</strong>l wonders of <strong>th</strong>e world, <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong>. Our small trip was led down <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong> to<br />
some of <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>rest and most astonishing views not only in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>, but in Arizona. It was uncommon to find<br />
our group at ease. The only time you would see us resting<br />
was when we were catching our brea<strong>th</strong> or preparing for our<br />
next adventure. We hiked, climbed, swam, explored and<br />
<strong>ra</strong>fted <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>ra</strong>pids <strong>th</strong>at required our team effort.<br />
Making friends was not a problem. We became a team at<br />
once, going <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>ra</strong>pids soon after we put in. Team work<br />
was also needed for inspiring each o<strong>th</strong>er on hikes, as we<br />
pushed each o<strong>th</strong>er to reach <strong>th</strong>e next water hole or brea<strong>th</strong>taking<br />
hanging garden. We grew to treat one ano<strong>th</strong>er as a family<br />
while we set up and <strong>ra</strong>n camp. Trust came fast, too. Whe<strong>th</strong>er<br />
it was saving someone <strong>th</strong>at had been tossed overboard into <strong>th</strong>e<br />
river or knowing <strong>th</strong>at everyone in <strong>th</strong>e paddle boat was willing<br />
to accomplish <strong>th</strong>e next command on <strong>th</strong>e paddle boat, we grew<br />
as individuals. Memories were created for me <strong>th</strong>at will last a<br />
lifetime: swimming, cliff jumping and seeing more waterfalls<br />
<strong>th</strong>en I <strong>th</strong>ought could exist in one canyon. G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
You<strong>th</strong> gave our group <strong>th</strong>e opportunity to get outdoors, meet<br />
new people and see sights only accessible by <strong>ra</strong>ft. I recommend<br />
anyone and everyone to get involved in <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> You<strong>th</strong> prog<strong>ra</strong>m. You will not regret it.”<br />
As always, G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> You<strong>th</strong> is indebted to all of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
wonderful folks who make our prog<strong>ra</strong>ms amazing. A<br />
special <strong>th</strong>ank you to Mar<strong>th</strong>a Clark, Thad Stewart,<br />
Kristen Huisinga, Tom Carter, Russell Baker, Robert<br />
Conley, Cindy Jalet, Darren Carboni, Shonto Begay,<br />
Raechel Running, Cyn<strong>th</strong>ia Billings, Patrick Conley,<br />
Jacob Fillion, Don Keller, Adventure Discovery, and to<br />
Fritz, for continually being <strong>th</strong>e glue <strong>th</strong>at holds it all<br />
toge<strong>th</strong>er.<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> You<strong>th</strong> is in <strong>th</strong>e process of planning<br />
our 2004 season. Volunteers are always welcome and<br />
needed. Please contact G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> You<strong>th</strong> P.O. Box<br />
23376 Flagstaff, az 86002, (928)773-7921 or<br />
info@gcyou<strong>th</strong>.org if you have questions.<br />
Emma Wharton<br />
page 16<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
Native American You<strong>th</strong> Artist Trip<br />
Raechel Running<br />
Skyhawk Eisenberger<br />
Raechel Running<br />
These towering walls ent<strong>ra</strong>p me wi<strong>th</strong> beauty<br />
Just as a trunk of a large tree<br />
And as <strong>th</strong>ese large waters move <strong>th</strong>rough wi<strong>th</strong> peace<br />
It holds <strong>th</strong>e life, some<strong>th</strong>ing <strong>th</strong>at will never cease<br />
Though we all fear its downfall<br />
This is <strong>th</strong>e lot of us<br />
This is our call<br />
It’s our battle<br />
It’s our b<strong>ra</strong>wl<br />
This river of life stays once and for all.<br />
Raechel Running<br />
Darien Yazzie<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 17
Saving Boats and <strong>River</strong> History:<br />
History in <strong>th</strong>e Making<br />
Who says history is dull, boring, uninteresting<br />
Obviously no one who was at <strong>th</strong>e old<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> National Park Visitor Center,<br />
now Park Headquarters, July 23, 2003, in <strong>th</strong>e courtyard,<br />
in <strong>th</strong>e sun, in <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>in, trying <strong>th</strong>eir best not to lovingly<br />
touch <strong>th</strong>e fleet of historic river running boats being rec<strong>ra</strong>dled<br />
and moved.<br />
In <strong>th</strong>e last boatman‚s quarterly review, (“Save Our<br />
Ships!”, vol. 16:2 pg. 6–7, Summer 2003,) you read about<br />
<strong>th</strong>e plans for <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> Historic Boat Project<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e first couple of steps in <strong>th</strong>is undertaking. We are<br />
pleased and proud to say <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>is project is well on its<br />
way. Seve<strong>ra</strong>l dozens of interested folks from G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> National Park (gcnp), G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> National<br />
Park Foundation (gcnpf), gcnpf Boat Advisory<br />
Committee, interested boaters, media reporters, and even<br />
visitors, looked on and assisted wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e ope<strong>ra</strong>tion. The<br />
excitement on <strong>th</strong>e Sou<strong>th</strong> Rim was electric, leading to a<br />
lightning and <strong>th</strong>understorm, wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>reat of flash floods.<br />
Varying sets of eight people, on four padded crosspieces,<br />
<strong>ra</strong>ised <strong>th</strong>e <strong>th</strong>ree Galloway boats, <strong>th</strong>e Edi<strong>th</strong>, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Glen, and <strong>th</strong>e “Stone boat”, <strong>th</strong>e Nevills Expedition Wen,<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e Music Temple dory onto new, B<strong>ra</strong>d Dimockbuilt,<br />
bomb-proof c<strong>ra</strong>dles, gua<strong>ra</strong>nteed to support c<strong>ra</strong>ft<br />
double <strong>th</strong>eir weight. Gcnp Superintendent Joe Alston<br />
completed <strong>th</strong>e second part of his heart surgery recovery<br />
(<strong>th</strong>e first was recently rowing downstream from Phantom<br />
Ranch) by participating in <strong>th</strong>e lift and lower.<br />
One by one, a gcnp enclosed stock t<strong>ra</strong>iler hauled <strong>th</strong>e<br />
<strong>th</strong>ree Galloway boats to <strong>th</strong>e new Conservation Shop<br />
where conservators from<br />
Weste<strong>rn</strong> Archaeological<br />
and Conservation and<br />
volunteers will painstakingly<br />
clean <strong>th</strong>e hulls.<br />
Despite <strong>th</strong>e dreams and<br />
talk of many in attendance<br />
to put <strong>th</strong>ese boats<br />
on <strong>th</strong>e water to “see<br />
what <strong>th</strong>ey‚ll do,” we<br />
must emphasize <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e<br />
efforts here are to<br />
conserve <strong>th</strong>e c<strong>ra</strong>ft, not<br />
to restore <strong>th</strong>em to ope<strong>ra</strong>ting<br />
condition. And, in<br />
addition, to place <strong>th</strong>em<br />
on display as “living”<br />
history of our boating<br />
heritage, and avoid <strong>th</strong>e<br />
“safe-keeping” fate as in<br />
Raiders of <strong>th</strong>e Lost Ark.<br />
Many people, too numerous to mention here, need to<br />
be <strong>th</strong>anked. But first and foremost among <strong>th</strong>em is<br />
boatman Joe Alston, who also happens to be gcnp<br />
Superintendent. “These boats tell <strong>th</strong>e story of river<br />
running on <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong> <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong>,” commented Joe. “The opportunity to make<br />
right <strong>th</strong>e damage caused by decades of neglect, and<br />
protect <strong>th</strong>ese boats and <strong>th</strong>eir history, is incredible.” For<br />
al<strong>th</strong>ough it has been decades, Joe has been “at <strong>th</strong>e helm”<br />
for only two years, and his en<strong>th</strong>usiasm and support has<br />
been instrumental for <strong>th</strong>e project‚s success.<br />
History is in <strong>th</strong>e making wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e coope<strong>ra</strong>tion of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Park and <strong>th</strong>e Foundation in preserving river running<br />
artifacts, indeed, some of our t<strong>ra</strong>ditional cultu<strong>ra</strong>l properties.<br />
It is also <strong>th</strong>e first time <strong>th</strong>e Foundation has had an<br />
advisory committee for a project. Chair Allen Naille<br />
called <strong>th</strong>e “boat folk‚ essential to <strong>th</strong>is excellent project”<br />
and <strong>th</strong>anked <strong>th</strong>em “for all <strong>th</strong>at you are doing to help<br />
maintain <strong>th</strong>e rich legacy of river running and all <strong>th</strong>at it<br />
has meant to <strong>th</strong>ose of us who love <strong>th</strong>is park.” Allen<br />
concluded <strong>th</strong>at he was „honored to have been involved<br />
in <strong>th</strong>e heavy lifting.<br />
“Save <strong>th</strong>e Boats” has now successfully “put-in,” but<br />
<strong>th</strong>ere is still a long, rocky, wet, yet exhila<strong>ra</strong>ting and fun<br />
voyage to get to <strong>th</strong>e “take-out.” To help power <strong>th</strong>is<br />
cruise, contact F<strong>ra</strong>n Joseph at <strong>th</strong>e gcnpf, 928-774-1760,<br />
f<strong>ra</strong>n@gcnpf.org.<br />
Richard Quartaroli<br />
F<strong>ra</strong>n Joseph<br />
page 18<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
F<strong>ra</strong>n Joseph<br />
F<strong>ra</strong>n Joseph<br />
F<strong>ra</strong>n Joseph<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 19
The T<strong>ra</strong>vails of Charlie—First Inflatable Raft<br />
Through G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
First, you must navigate <strong>th</strong>e crowded, sun-baked<br />
parking lot. A multi-colored fleet of polished metal<br />
and tinted-windows—Volvos, s.u.v.’s, and minivans—<strong>jo</strong>ckey<br />
for <strong>th</strong>e few remaining parking spots. Rap<br />
music blares from <strong>th</strong>e cooler-sized speakers on <strong>th</strong>e deck<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e wedge-shaped building. Lost children shriek,<br />
running between <strong>th</strong>e rows of cars; schools of bare-shouldered<br />
teenage girls giggle in unison, caught up in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
excitement and promise of a warm day on <strong>th</strong>e river wi<strong>th</strong><br />
<strong>th</strong>e fresh-faced guides in dark w<strong>ra</strong>paround sunglasses and<br />
life jackets. It is easier to park on <strong>th</strong>e road.<br />
B<strong>ra</strong>ve <strong>th</strong>e parking lot once more, on foot <strong>th</strong>is time;<br />
<strong>th</strong>en tiptoe up <strong>th</strong>e steps of <strong>th</strong>e deck and into <strong>th</strong>e limegreen,<br />
neon-lit foyer. Soon you are treading water in<br />
ano<strong>th</strong>er sea of you<strong>th</strong>ful exube<strong>ra</strong>nce; bewildered parents<br />
sway like anchorless buoys, credit cards in hand. Then<br />
and only <strong>th</strong>en, if you manage to <strong>th</strong>read your way<br />
<strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e giddy crowd, eventually you will find<br />
Charlie, resting in a glass case in <strong>th</strong>e T-shirt shop cum<br />
museum.<br />
Charlie.<br />
The first inflatable <strong>ra</strong>ft to float <strong>th</strong>e canyons of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Green and Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>s; <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft <strong>th</strong>at not only<br />
changed <strong>th</strong>e way we boat on Weste<strong>rn</strong> rivers, but opened<br />
<strong>th</strong>ese rivers up to anyone wi<strong>th</strong> time on <strong>th</strong>eir hands and<br />
an itch too see what’s around <strong>th</strong>e bend. Charlie, arguably<br />
<strong>th</strong>e founding rubber fa<strong>th</strong>er of mode<strong>rn</strong> day commercial<br />
<strong>ra</strong>fting in <strong>th</strong>e West, <strong>th</strong>e unwitting progenitor of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
merry ca<strong>rn</strong>ival here at Mad <strong>River</strong> Boat Trips in Jackson<br />
Hole, Wyoming.<br />
The sun’s glare makes it difficult to view Charlie. Not<br />
<strong>th</strong>at many people take an interest. Occasionally a daytripper<br />
wanders in, lost or looking for a T-shirt, and<br />
wanders out, a dazed look on <strong>th</strong>eir face. Despite <strong>th</strong>e<br />
vintage boats and <strong>th</strong>e att<strong>ra</strong>ctive historical mu<strong>ra</strong>l at <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
fingertips, <strong>th</strong>ese neophyte river runners have o<strong>th</strong>er<br />
<strong>th</strong>ings on <strong>th</strong>eir minds. They are on vacation. Here to<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>b a few hours of fun on <strong>th</strong>e Snake <strong>River</strong>, not to<br />
voluntarily attend a history lesson on boating in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
West. It is hard to fault <strong>th</strong>eir insouciance or <strong>th</strong>eir indifference.<br />
Young, strong, tan—<strong>th</strong>ey have signed on for a<br />
fling, not a long-term romance, wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e river. A oneday<br />
stand.<br />
Romances, <strong>th</strong>ough, have started in st<strong>ra</strong>nger places.<br />
Sixty-five years old and sagging, Charlie’s uninflated,<br />
rubberized surface is creased and care-wo<strong>rn</strong>. The yellow<br />
<strong>ra</strong>ft has little of <strong>th</strong>e aging charm of <strong>th</strong>e wooden boats on<br />
display. In an interesting difference of opinion on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
resto<strong>ra</strong>tion/preservation debate, Utah Historical Society<br />
(where Charlie usually lives) insisted <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft be left<br />
as is, refusing various suggestions and/or requests to have<br />
Charlie “brought to life,” as some proponents of resto<strong>ra</strong>tion<br />
state <strong>th</strong>e case. Attempts to restore Charlie,<br />
according to <strong>th</strong>e historical society, would be a violation<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e “integrity” of <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft as well as a possible risk to<br />
<strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft itself, a historical artifact. A valid point-of-view.<br />
And yet, Charlie looks sodden and unappealing, even a<br />
bit lonely <strong>th</strong>is mo<strong>rn</strong>ing. Before arriving at <strong>th</strong>e Mad<br />
<strong>River</strong> T-shirt Shop/Museum, <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft had been stored in<br />
<strong>th</strong>e basement of <strong>th</strong>e Utah State Historical Society in<br />
Salt Lake City for some years. “We can’t keep exhibits<br />
on <strong>th</strong>e floor forever,” said one cu<strong>ra</strong>tor. I agreed wi<strong>th</strong> her,<br />
half-heartedly. A wee voice in my head, <strong>th</strong>ough, whispered,<br />
“Why not” That Charlie was even seeing <strong>th</strong>e light<br />
of day, far from its t<strong>ra</strong>ditional stomping grounds, was a<br />
credit to Breck O’Neill, owner of Mad <strong>River</strong> Boats.<br />
“Better <strong>th</strong>an no<strong>th</strong>ing,” badgered <strong>th</strong>at same voice as I<br />
stared at Charlie. “But what Charlie really needs is a<br />
boa<strong>th</strong>ouse, a place where it can be permanently on display,<br />
along wi<strong>th</strong> o<strong>th</strong>er G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> c<strong>ra</strong>ft.”<br />
As part of <strong>th</strong>e agreement wi<strong>th</strong> Utah State Historical<br />
Society, O’ Neill had Charlie app<strong>ra</strong>ised by a cu<strong>ra</strong>tor from<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Maritime Museum in San F<strong>ra</strong>ncisco for insu<strong>ra</strong>nce<br />
purposes. In terms of its historical value, he listed <strong>th</strong>e<br />
c<strong>ra</strong>ft priceless.<br />
* * *<br />
“Your voyage floored me,” wrote Amos Burg to<br />
fellow-Oregonian Buzz Holmstrom in <strong>th</strong>e winter of<br />
1937-38. The gas station attendant from Coquille had<br />
recently completed <strong>th</strong>e first solo <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>ey down <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Green and Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>s in a handmade wooden<br />
boat. Ove<strong>rn</strong>ight <strong>th</strong>e often-shy Holmstrom had become<br />
uncomfortably famous. As savvy to <strong>th</strong>e uses of publicity<br />
as Holmstrom was reluctant, Burg made his pitch. Why<br />
not combine <strong>th</strong>eir talents—Holmstrom’s skill as a<br />
boatman, his knowledge of <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do, and his popularity<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> Burg’s talents as a photog<strong>ra</strong>pher, his adventurous<br />
background and his numerous contacts—to make<br />
a film recreating <strong>th</strong>e solo trip. This film would not only<br />
make <strong>th</strong>em plenty of money, but also allow <strong>th</strong>em to do<br />
what <strong>th</strong>ey bo<strong>th</strong> loved. Ever anxious to get back on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
river, Holmstrom jumped at <strong>th</strong>e opportunity. Natu<strong>ra</strong>lly,<br />
Buzz would row his wooden boat; Amos, however, had<br />
come up wi<strong>th</strong> ano<strong>th</strong>er novel idea. Not only he would he<br />
film <strong>th</strong>e epic <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>ey, he would row a different kind of<br />
boat—a rubber <strong>ra</strong>ft—down <strong>th</strong>e rivers.<br />
page 20<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
If ever <strong>th</strong>ere was an incu<strong>ra</strong>ble, yet remarkably p<strong>ra</strong>gmatic<br />
romantic, it was Amos Burg. From an early age, he<br />
seems to have been struck by <strong>th</strong>e “holy curiosity,” a<br />
wanderlust for t<strong>ra</strong>vel, prefe<strong>ra</strong>bly by water, and fa<strong>ra</strong>way<br />
places. The back sloughs of <strong>th</strong>e Willamette and Columbia<br />
<strong>River</strong>s near his hometown of Portland were his first playground.<br />
At twelve, he shipped out as a cabin boy on ocean<br />
liners; soon after he was working his way around <strong>th</strong>e world<br />
on cargo ships. By <strong>th</strong>e time he met Holmstrom, he had<br />
paddled his canoe down <strong>th</strong>e Columbia, Yukon, Snake,<br />
Mississippi, and <strong>th</strong>e McKenzie, often from source to<br />
debouchement. He preferred a partner on his adventures,<br />
but would go it alone if necessary. Only <strong>th</strong>e year before he<br />
had taken what one newspaper article called “a crude toy<br />
rubber <strong>ra</strong>ft” <strong>th</strong>ough Hell’s <strong>Canyon</strong> of <strong>th</strong>e Snake <strong>River</strong>.<br />
Impressed by <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft’s performance and light weight, he<br />
may well have decided <strong>th</strong>en to design a sturdier, more able<br />
<strong>ra</strong>ft, one <strong>th</strong>at could wi<strong>th</strong>stand <strong>th</strong>e pounding he was sure to<br />
receive on any <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>ey down a larger river. Burg was<br />
always preparing for his next adventure.<br />
Wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e help of Charles Wheeler, a shipping<br />
magnate and long-time friend, Burg cont<strong>ra</strong>cted wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e<br />
B.F. Goodrich Company to construct <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft out of a<br />
new wonder material—vulcanized rubber fabric. (Eventually<br />
Burg named <strong>th</strong>e boat after Charles Wheeler, who<br />
also donated two hundred dollars toward <strong>th</strong>e trip.)<br />
Air Inflatable of New Jersey would manufacture <strong>th</strong>e<br />
prototype, according to Burg’s specifications. Each of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
sepa<strong>ra</strong>te twenty-six chambers of <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft would be<br />
inflated wi<strong>th</strong> two-and-a-half pounds of air pressure; <strong>th</strong>e<br />
bright yellow, five-foot by sixteen-foot, would weigh a<br />
mere eighty-<strong>th</strong>ree pound when inflated. The c<strong>ra</strong>ft’s fore<br />
and aft compartments would be sealed at <strong>th</strong>e <strong>th</strong>warts to<br />
provide a waterproof sto<strong>ra</strong>ge area for Burg’s gear and<br />
expensive came<strong>ra</strong> equipment. Burg crowed <strong>th</strong>at it<br />
“would float on a dewdrop.” Goodrich gua<strong>ra</strong>nteed <strong>th</strong>at it<br />
would carry a load of five <strong>th</strong>ousand pounds. In his everlaconic<br />
fashion, Holmstrom uttered <strong>th</strong>at he would hate<br />
to row a boat <strong>th</strong>at weighed <strong>th</strong>at much <strong>th</strong>rough a <strong>ra</strong>pid.<br />
Cont<strong>ra</strong>ry to popular belief, rubber <strong>ra</strong>fts were not<br />
invented by <strong>th</strong>e U.S. Navy in response to World War II.<br />
Almost one hundred years earlier, Lt. John Fremont of<br />
<strong>th</strong>e United States Army and Ho<strong>ra</strong>ce H. Day came up<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e idea of a rubber <strong>ra</strong>ft to explore <strong>th</strong>e Great Plains<br />
and Rocky Mountain regions. The first recorded use of<br />
<strong>th</strong>is ungainly, rectangular-shaped beast was in 1842<br />
when Fremont set out to survey <strong>th</strong>e Platte <strong>River</strong>, not<br />
exactly a roaring stretch of whitewater.<br />
Weeks late, Charlie finally arrived in Green <strong>River</strong>,<br />
Wyoming aboard <strong>th</strong>e Union Pacific. At first sight, Burg<br />
was <strong>th</strong>rilled; Holmstrom remained dubious. Prepa<strong>ra</strong>tions<br />
continued. The two Oregonians cobbled toge<strong>th</strong>er a<br />
wooden f<strong>ra</strong>me. On August 26, 1938, <strong>th</strong>ey launched from<br />
Green <strong>River</strong> Lakes, bound for fame, fortune and <strong>th</strong>e Sea<br />
of Cortez.<br />
***<br />
Despite his vast experience on rivers, Burg had his<br />
hands full. Not only was he venturing down elevenhundred-miles<br />
of unfamiliar river, he was piloting an<br />
untested c<strong>ra</strong>ft as well. More importantly, he was a<br />
paddler not an oarsman. Soon enough, he would have to<br />
start <strong>th</strong>inking and responding differently in his approach<br />
to fast, often unforgiving, water. It is a wonder (and a<br />
credit to Burg’s judgement, composure and sound skills<br />
as a waterman) <strong>th</strong>at he did not get into more trouble.<br />
Through it all, Burg somehow managed to avoid a<br />
serious, even fatal mishap.<br />
Amos, never<strong>th</strong>eless, had his share of trouble on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
river, partly due to his inexperience, partly due to <strong>th</strong>e<br />
inherent limitations of Charlie.<br />
The <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al accounts of Holmstrom and Burg himself<br />
confirm <strong>th</strong>at Charlie/Amos did every<strong>th</strong>ing but flip. On<br />
<strong>th</strong>e shallow, rocky upper reaches of <strong>th</strong>e Green, Charlie<br />
functioned as Burg had anticipated, bumping and<br />
<strong>th</strong>reading its way <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e rock-strewn river. Given<br />
his experience, it is likely <strong>th</strong>at Burg was a quick study.<br />
Running on relatively high water, <strong>th</strong>e trio entered<br />
<strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> of Lodore in good shape. Amos <strong>ra</strong>n Disaster<br />
Falls wi<strong>th</strong>out incident; at Triplet Falls, he washed up on<br />
a boulder and had to get out on a rock and push Charlie<br />
off. It would not be <strong>th</strong>e last time. Wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e help of Phil<br />
Lundstrom and Buzz, he portaged Hells Half Mile. In<br />
Split Mountain <strong>Canyon</strong>, however, Burg had a scare.<br />
Trying to avoid <strong>th</strong>e larger waves, he found himself going<br />
sideways into a pourover. For an instant Charlie trembled<br />
on edge, ready to flip. Then <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft washed out. Ever in<br />
good humor Burg wrote <strong>th</strong>at evening, “I left <strong>th</strong>e <strong>jo</strong>b pretty<br />
much up to Charlie.” Soon enough Amos/Charlie would<br />
face a stricter test.<br />
In mid-September <strong>th</strong>ey stopped in Jensen for a<br />
much-anticipated break. The only problems Amos faced<br />
were <strong>th</strong>e unstinting generosity of <strong>th</strong>e locals and <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
curious questions. What would happen if <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>ing<br />
strikes a rock or runs over a tack A few days later <strong>th</strong>ey<br />
set off down river. One-hundred-miles of <strong>th</strong>e Uinta<br />
Basin, seventy-miles of Desolation and G<strong>ra</strong>y <strong>Canyon</strong>,<br />
and one-hundred-<strong>th</strong>irty-miles of <strong>th</strong>e Green <strong>River</strong> Valley<br />
awaited <strong>th</strong>em, followed by Labyrin<strong>th</strong> and Stillwater<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong>s. Amos/Charlie held <strong>th</strong>eir own.<br />
Heading into much-dreaded Cata<strong>ra</strong>ct <strong>Canyon</strong>,<br />
Holmstrom filled Amos’ ear wi<strong>th</strong> tales of doom and<br />
destruction. An old boatman trick.<br />
At <strong>th</strong>e head of <strong>th</strong>e Big Drops, Amos tried to sneak<br />
down <strong>th</strong>e shoreline. Instead he found himself riding into<br />
<strong>th</strong>e heart of <strong>th</strong>e maelstrom. The great waves bent and<br />
twisted and folded Charlie up double bow to ste<strong>rn</strong>. Burg<br />
nearly had his head c<strong>ra</strong>cked open. There was little he<br />
could do but hold on and ride it out. At Big Drop #3, he<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 21
lined. Holmstrom was having his own troubles in<br />
Cata<strong>ra</strong>ct. Twice he hit rocks, once hard enough to c<strong>ra</strong>ck<br />
<strong>th</strong>e hull of <strong>th</strong>e Julius F.<br />
By <strong>th</strong>e time he arrived in Marble <strong>Canyon</strong> in mid-<br />
October, Burg had figured out <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e best way to safely<br />
complete <strong>th</strong>e eleven-hundred-mile <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>ey as well as film<br />
it, no small accomplishment in itself, was to simply<br />
avoid <strong>th</strong>e bigger <strong>ra</strong>pids when at all possible. Again, a<br />
credit to his judgement. Burg (wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e help of Willis<br />
Johnson, who replaced Phil Lundstrom at Green <strong>River</strong>,<br />
Utah) wiggled his boat down <strong>th</strong>e eddies and side pockets<br />
of most of <strong>th</strong>e ma<strong>jo</strong>r <strong>ra</strong>pids, a time-consuming effort.<br />
Amos lined Soap Creek, <strong>th</strong>en House Rock; when he<br />
<strong>ra</strong>n Nor<strong>th</strong> <strong>Canyon</strong>, Charlie was swamped and nearly<br />
capsized. On October 17, Johnson wrote, “We almost lost<br />
Amos in his rubber boat today. His boat is too flexible and<br />
half <strong>th</strong>e boat was sucked st<strong>ra</strong>ight down in a strong whirlpool.<br />
It is a wonder <strong>th</strong>e rubberized fabric it is composed of didn’t<br />
rip for <strong>th</strong>ere was a terrific st<strong>ra</strong>in on it. It was very tough<br />
<strong>th</strong>ough… The wooden boat goes over <strong>th</strong>e waves a lot better.<br />
We have been whirled around seve<strong>ra</strong>l times in whirlpool, but<br />
can always get out of <strong>th</strong>em wi<strong>th</strong> little difficulty.”<br />
Amos lined 27-mile Rapid, <strong>th</strong>en Hance on <strong>th</strong>e left.<br />
In <strong>th</strong>e tailwaves at Sockdolager, he nearly tu<strong>rn</strong>ed turtle.<br />
After helping Amos line Charlie around Eighty-<strong>th</strong>ree<br />
Mile Rapid, Holmstrom himself nearly tu<strong>rn</strong>ed over in an<br />
unnamed wave a few miles below.<br />
Below Ho<strong>rn</strong> Creek Amos wrote, “This afte<strong>rn</strong>oon<br />
Julius F. <strong>ra</strong>n Ho<strong>rn</strong> Creek Rapids and G<strong>ra</strong>nite Falls, while<br />
ambitionless Charlie lined a few yards around <strong>th</strong>e head.” He<br />
also lined Hermit. After Burg had yet ano<strong>th</strong>er close<br />
encounter in Turquoise Rapids, Holmstrom remarked<br />
half-in-jest, “That <strong>th</strong>ing isn’t safe!”<br />
Ruby <strong>Canyon</strong> and Serpentine Rapids were no kinder<br />
to ei<strong>th</strong>er boater. Once again, Amos dribbled Charlie<br />
along <strong>th</strong>e rocky shore while Buzz narrowly escaped<br />
ano<strong>th</strong>er sound <strong>th</strong><strong>ra</strong>shing.<br />
One afte<strong>rn</strong>oon after a long day on <strong>th</strong>e river Amos<br />
asked Willis, “What did you write about <strong>th</strong>e trip today”<br />
A bit coy, Willis laughed and said, “Well, we carried<br />
Amos’ boat around <strong>th</strong>is <strong>ra</strong>pid, <strong>th</strong>at <strong>ra</strong>pid, all <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>pids.”<br />
Chagrined, Amos replied “I wish you wouldn’t mention<br />
<strong>th</strong>at in your writing.” Willis mumbled O.K. Of course,<br />
he continued to record <strong>th</strong>e mishaps of Charlie (and <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Julius F.) as well as his sincere admi<strong>ra</strong>tion for Burg.<br />
On October 25, Johnson revealed yet ano<strong>th</strong>er close<br />
encounter for Charlie/Amos. “In one <strong>ra</strong>pid <strong>th</strong>is afte<strong>rn</strong>oon a<br />
very large cliff splits <strong>th</strong>e river into two very narrow channels.<br />
We chose <strong>th</strong>e right channel and came <strong>th</strong>rough very nicely, but<br />
Amos was not so lucky. The strong current hurled him against<br />
<strong>th</strong>e right cliff, his oar was knocked out of <strong>th</strong>e oarlock and he<br />
was held helpless against <strong>th</strong>e cliff by <strong>th</strong>e strong current while we<br />
were being carried fur<strong>th</strong>er and fur<strong>th</strong>er downstream all <strong>th</strong>e time.<br />
He was finally able to free <strong>th</strong>e boat before it could be sucked<br />
under. It was his narrowest escape from disaster.”<br />
At Waltenburg, Burg portaged again. Holmstrom tore<br />
a <strong>th</strong>ree-by-eight-inch gash in <strong>th</strong>e bottom of <strong>th</strong>e Julius F.<br />
Two days later, Burg/Charlie plunged into Forester Rapids<br />
and was nearly upended. Having nearly lost his “office<br />
equipment,” i.e. his pencils, pens, notebooks, maps, <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>als<br />
<strong>th</strong>at he had neatly ar<strong>ra</strong>nged in his cockpit, he<br />
landed on a sand bar below <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>pid to recoup. In <strong>th</strong>e<br />
style of boatmen <strong>th</strong>en and now, he made light of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
incident. Dubendorf and Lava Falls waited downstream.<br />
Burg lined bo<strong>th</strong> of <strong>th</strong>ese ma<strong>jo</strong>r <strong>ra</strong>pids; Buzz <strong>ra</strong>n bo<strong>th</strong>.<br />
As tempting as it is to compare <strong>th</strong>e two boats and<br />
<strong>th</strong>e two boatmen, it is a faulty comparison and a temptation<br />
best avoided. Though Burg and Holmstrom were<br />
running on low water (10,000 cfs) and carrying heavy<br />
loads, <strong>th</strong>ere were significant differences between <strong>th</strong>em.<br />
Holmstrom knew his boat and <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>. Certainly<br />
he was confident of his skills <strong>th</strong>e second time around.<br />
Amos, oddly enough, had assumed <strong>th</strong>e greater burden—<br />
an untested c<strong>ra</strong>ft, an unfamiliar river, a brief time to<br />
lea<strong>rn</strong> <strong>th</strong>e t<strong>ra</strong>de of <strong>th</strong>e oarsman besides carrying on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
duties of filming and photog<strong>ra</strong>phy. Intrepid by nature,<br />
proficient <strong>th</strong>rough p<strong>ra</strong>ctice—Amos would never match<br />
<strong>th</strong>e technical rowing skills of a Holmstrom. Under <strong>th</strong>e<br />
circumstances, it is doubtful <strong>th</strong>at anyone (even Holmstrom)<br />
could have rowed Charlie any better.<br />
Later Holmstrom wrote of Amos, “He sure did a fine<br />
<strong>jo</strong>b of rowing as Charlie rows much harder <strong>th</strong>an Julius.”<br />
Burg said of Holmstrom, “Buzz is a superb boatman, very<br />
rhy<strong>th</strong>mic in <strong>th</strong>ought and action, accu<strong>ra</strong>te as a knife<br />
<strong>th</strong>rower.” Despite minor disagreements, bo<strong>th</strong> men were<br />
in <strong>th</strong>e habit of giving credit where credit was due.<br />
A few days later <strong>th</strong>e trio encountered <strong>th</strong>e rising<br />
waters of Lake Mead at Sepa<strong>ra</strong>tion Rapid. The yellow<br />
<strong>ra</strong>ft wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e patched-toge<strong>th</strong>er rowing f<strong>ra</strong>me, no doubt<br />
underinflated and overloaded, slipped down <strong>th</strong>e dwindling<br />
current into slack water, <strong>th</strong>e first inflatable to pass<br />
<strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e canyons of <strong>th</strong>e Green and Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>s.<br />
A dozen or more linings, four near flips, two or <strong>th</strong>ree<br />
portages, numerous encounters wi<strong>th</strong> rocks, and probably<br />
numerous, unrecorded near misses—by mode<strong>rn</strong> standards,<br />
Amos/Charlie got hammered. In many respects,<br />
<strong>th</strong>ough, <strong>th</strong>e 1938 trip was an unva<strong>rn</strong>ished success. The<br />
<strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>ey was completed; life-long friendships established;<br />
even Amos’ film ga<strong>rn</strong>ered a nomination for best short<br />
film from <strong>th</strong>e Academy of Motion Pictures. Charlie<br />
became <strong>th</strong>e first inflatable to go down <strong>th</strong>e river; Holmstrom<br />
became <strong>th</strong>e first boatman to run every <strong>ra</strong>pid, as far<br />
as <strong>th</strong>ey knew. In spite of <strong>th</strong>eir g<strong>ra</strong>nd plan, <strong>th</strong>e two<br />
Oregonians didn’t make any money to speak of.<br />
***<br />
The following year (1939) Burg brought Charlie on a<br />
trip down <strong>th</strong>e Middle Fork of <strong>th</strong>e Salmon <strong>River</strong> wi<strong>th</strong><br />
seve<strong>ra</strong>l prominent boatmen of <strong>th</strong>e day. In one article<br />
page 22<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
B<strong>ra</strong>d Dimock wrote of <strong>th</strong>is meeting, “They eyed <strong>th</strong>e<br />
inflatable wi<strong>th</strong> suspicion as <strong>th</strong>ey launched <strong>th</strong>eir fleet of<br />
wooden boats. By midway down <strong>th</strong>e river <strong>th</strong>eir opinions<br />
were changing. They envied Charlie’s ability to run <strong>th</strong>e<br />
shallow water, bounce off obstacles wi<strong>th</strong>out leng<strong>th</strong>y<br />
repairs, and have dry shoes at <strong>th</strong>e end of <strong>th</strong>e day. By <strong>th</strong>e<br />
end of <strong>th</strong>e trip, <strong>th</strong>e future of whitewater boating was<br />
forever changed.”<br />
Running rivers took a back seat to <strong>th</strong>e exigencies of<br />
WW2. Throughout <strong>th</strong>ese years, Burg t<strong>ra</strong>veled regularly<br />
to distant locations around <strong>th</strong>e world, bo<strong>th</strong> on his<br />
personal adventures and later in his work for <strong>th</strong>e U.S.<br />
gove<strong>rn</strong>ment. Charlie’s next adventure did not come until<br />
1946 when Amos <strong>ra</strong>n <strong>th</strong>e Snake <strong>River</strong>/Hell’s <strong>Canyon</strong> a<br />
second time. For <strong>th</strong>e most part, however, Charlie<br />
remained in <strong>th</strong>e shed next to Burg’s home in Juneau,<br />
Alaska for <strong>th</strong>e next <strong>th</strong>irty or so years.<br />
In 1978, Amos <strong>ra</strong>fted Hells <strong>Canyon</strong> of <strong>th</strong>e Snake<br />
<strong>River</strong> again; two years later he boated <strong>th</strong>e Yukon wi<strong>th</strong><br />
family and friends. He was seventy-nine years old. Age,<br />
safety, <strong>th</strong>e number of people involved, <strong>th</strong>e condition of<br />
Charlie—all may have factored into Amos’ decision to<br />
leave <strong>th</strong>e yellow <strong>ra</strong>ft behind.<br />
Burg did strike up a friendship wi<strong>th</strong> Cort Conley,<br />
Idaho boatman and writer, in <strong>th</strong>e early 1980s. Visits and<br />
frequent letters between <strong>th</strong>e two river runners, gene<strong>ra</strong>tions<br />
apart, drew <strong>th</strong>e two men into a sturdy friendship.<br />
Eventually Conley persuaded Burg <strong>th</strong>at Charlie was an<br />
important piece of river history. Charlie should be placed<br />
somewhere safe, Conley insisted. Burg had considered<br />
putting <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft in <strong>th</strong>e Columbia Maritime Museum in<br />
Astoria, Oregon, at <strong>th</strong>e mou<strong>th</strong> of <strong>th</strong>e Columbia <strong>River</strong>.<br />
(“In my own backyard,” said Burg.) Conley sympa<strong>th</strong>ized<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> Burg’s desire, but argued persuasively <strong>th</strong>at Charlie<br />
should be placed in a museum closer to G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>,<br />
where more people would appreciate <strong>th</strong>e role it had<br />
played in whitewater history.<br />
Wi<strong>th</strong> Burg’s blessings, Conley approached G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> Museum on <strong>th</strong>e Sou<strong>th</strong> Rim in <strong>th</strong>e late 1970’s.<br />
The <strong>ra</strong>nger-in-charge at <strong>th</strong>e time seemed emphatically<br />
disinterested in securing <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft much less in putting it<br />
on display. Conley was dismayed by <strong>th</strong>e response. He<br />
would have to look elsewhere.<br />
Conley also feared, rightly so, <strong>th</strong>at Charlie would end<br />
up like so many historical artifacts, squirreled away in<br />
<strong>th</strong>e basement of a museum waiting for a sympa<strong>th</strong>etic<br />
cu<strong>ra</strong>tor. If not on <strong>th</strong>e edge of <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>, <strong>th</strong>en<br />
where<br />
Next, Conley approached <strong>th</strong>e Utah State Historical<br />
Society in Salt Lake City. He struck paydirt. Gary<br />
Topping, a cu<strong>ra</strong>tor wi<strong>th</strong> an interest in <strong>th</strong>e history of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Green <strong>River</strong> area, was excited about acquiring Charlie.<br />
Delighted, Conley put him in touch wi<strong>th</strong> Amos.<br />
Topping made such an impression <strong>th</strong>at Burg agreed to<br />
place <strong>th</strong>e boat at Utah State Historical Society. On<br />
February 13, 1982, Amos wrote to Topping, “Your<br />
en<strong>th</strong>usiasm for Charlie certainly makes your museum<br />
seem like <strong>th</strong>e logical place for its last resting place. You<br />
win.” Whatever <strong>th</strong>e agreement, Burg wrote fur<strong>th</strong>er, “I’d<br />
appreciate it greatly if you would write Mr. Wheeler in<br />
your en<strong>th</strong>usiastic prose to tell him <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e boat named<br />
Charlie in his honor is to be a permanent exhibit in your<br />
museum (italics mine). Mr. Wheeler is over ninety and<br />
<strong>th</strong>is would mean a great deal to him.”<br />
Soon after Amos brought Charlie down to Salt Lake<br />
City. Conley was <strong>th</strong>ere for <strong>th</strong>e annual wrga meeting<br />
and he, along wi<strong>th</strong> Topping, met Amos in <strong>th</strong>e Utah<br />
State Historical Society basement. Toge<strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>ey<br />
inflated Charlie. After nearly fifty years, <strong>th</strong>e modest<br />
yellow <strong>ra</strong>ft still held air. Conley lugged <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>ft over to<br />
<strong>th</strong>e wrga meeting to show it off while Amos gave a talk<br />
about Charlie and his amazing trip <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
in 1938.<br />
At <strong>th</strong>e time, <strong>th</strong>e prevailing philosophy conce<strong>rn</strong>ing<br />
f<strong>ra</strong>gile historical artifacts seemed to be one of minimal<br />
interference. Since one can’t “preserve” rubber, <strong>th</strong>e best<br />
approach would be to make it “presentable.’” Thus,<br />
Charlie was cleaned up as best as possible, flakes and all,<br />
and put on display. The idea of placing a bladder inside<br />
Charlie to “restore” <strong>th</strong>e c<strong>ra</strong>ft was unacceptable. Charlie<br />
would have had to been cut open and <strong>th</strong>en resewn. The<br />
entire process meant excessive handling of <strong>th</strong>e f<strong>ra</strong>il boat<br />
not to mention putting added pressure on existing<br />
seams, according to museum cu<strong>ra</strong>tors. (The bladder<br />
technique, <strong>th</strong>ough, has been improved in recent years.<br />
Made of a very <strong>th</strong>in, but non-stretchable material, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
bladders are designed to slip in <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e valve hole,<br />
<strong>th</strong>us requiring no surgery. The bladder is <strong>th</strong>en inflated, a<br />
bit smaller <strong>th</strong>an <strong>th</strong>e original <strong>ra</strong>ft, putting little if any<br />
pressure on <strong>th</strong>e old seams.)<br />
Between 1982 and 2000, Charlie resided at <strong>th</strong>e Utah<br />
State Historical Society, occasionally on display, more<br />
often in sto<strong>ra</strong>ge in <strong>th</strong>e basement. On June 11, 1986,<br />
Amos Burg died in his hometown of Portland, Oregon.<br />
Gary Topping left <strong>th</strong>e Utah State Historical Society in<br />
1991. In <strong>th</strong>e summer of 2000, Mad <strong>River</strong> Boat Trips<br />
cont<strong>ra</strong>cted wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e Utah State Historical Society to<br />
display Charlie for a period of time.<br />
Go visit Charlie! Despite <strong>th</strong>e crowds, <strong>th</strong>e little yellow<br />
<strong>ra</strong>ft <strong>th</strong>at started it all might be glad to have visitors wi<strong>th</strong><br />
romance on <strong>th</strong>eir minds and rivers in <strong>th</strong>eir hearts.<br />
Vince Welch<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 23
On <strong>River</strong>s and Humility<br />
We are all here to help each o<strong>th</strong>er get <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>is <strong>th</strong>ing…<br />
whatever it is.<br />
-Kurt Vonnegut Jr.<br />
Aboatman told me today <strong>th</strong>at he had “kicked<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Cribworks’ ass,” <strong>th</strong>is on day two of his<br />
t<strong>ra</strong>ining on <strong>th</strong>e Penobscot <strong>River</strong>. I sighed<br />
deeply for <strong>th</strong>e brilliant naiveté of <strong>th</strong>e boast.<br />
Guiding a difficult river is a beautiful and challenging<br />
endeavor, but <strong>th</strong>e technical aspect of <strong>th</strong>e work<br />
is <strong>th</strong>e least of <strong>th</strong>e challenge. You could push ten empty<br />
boats out of <strong>th</strong>e Bailing Eddy (how many of us today<br />
stop to consider <strong>th</strong>e significance of <strong>th</strong>e name) and<br />
one of <strong>th</strong>em would have a very nice run <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Cribworks.<br />
As wi<strong>th</strong> life, <strong>th</strong>e Cribworks doesn’t give a damn<br />
about your run. When next you retu<strong>rn</strong> don’t expect<br />
Telos Hole or Guardian Rock to cower in <strong>th</strong>e face of<br />
your prowess. Don’t expect Pillow and Pelican Rocks<br />
to part at your approach. The river flows on, unperturbed<br />
by your f<strong>ra</strong>il <strong>th</strong><strong>ra</strong>shings.<br />
Many of you paddle solo boats and confront solitary<br />
challenges of a different sort every bit as<br />
rewarding as <strong>th</strong>ose of guiding. But don’t confuse <strong>th</strong>e<br />
two. The people in your <strong>ra</strong>ft are <strong>th</strong>e true source of your<br />
successes and your failures. Each brings from <strong>th</strong>e world<br />
beyond his or her own baggage and expectations.<br />
Many are af<strong>ra</strong>id and some admit it freely; o<strong>th</strong>ers<br />
conceal <strong>th</strong>eir fear behind b<strong>ra</strong>vado. Many are burdened<br />
by expectations <strong>th</strong>ey can’t possibly manage. Some are<br />
simply here for <strong>th</strong>e <strong>th</strong>rills. It is your privilege and<br />
complex task to discover <strong>th</strong>e true needs of your crew<br />
and to find a way to enrich each of <strong>th</strong>em <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e<br />
experience. In <strong>th</strong>e midst of a busy season keep in mind<br />
<strong>th</strong>at, for some of your crew, <strong>th</strong>eir trip wi<strong>th</strong> you will<br />
change <strong>th</strong>eir lives. Treat each trip as <strong>th</strong>ough it were<br />
your last.<br />
We should all be students of <strong>th</strong>e great boatmen of<br />
our time. Emulate <strong>th</strong>eir styles freely and study <strong>th</strong>e<br />
subtleties of how <strong>th</strong>ey tend to <strong>th</strong>eir crews. We all<br />
know such guides. They are <strong>th</strong>e ones requested by<br />
crews every o<strong>th</strong>er day and most of <strong>th</strong>em bear <strong>th</strong>e physical<br />
infirmities of <strong>th</strong>eir many years of experience.<br />
Copying <strong>th</strong>em is <strong>th</strong>e only shortcut I know to mastery.<br />
Don’t get me wrong, a fine run feels very nice and<br />
can make <strong>th</strong>e whole world seem a bit brighter for a<br />
time. Take pleasure in your run; <strong>th</strong>is may be <strong>th</strong>e<br />
closest <strong>th</strong>at you come to a state of g<strong>ra</strong>ce.<br />
Don’t take all <strong>th</strong>e credit for it <strong>th</strong>ough. After a nice<br />
run, give <strong>th</strong>anks to your crew who, despite <strong>th</strong>eir fears<br />
and inexperience, paddled when you needed <strong>th</strong>eir help<br />
and ref<strong>ra</strong>ined from messing up your lines. Give <strong>th</strong>anks<br />
to your fellow boatmen who cheered your successes<br />
and rescued you from <strong>th</strong>e consequences of your errors.<br />
Give <strong>th</strong>anks to <strong>th</strong>e outfitter who made <strong>th</strong>e trip<br />
possible and handled <strong>th</strong>e myriad little details you don’t<br />
even want to <strong>th</strong>ink about. And finally, give <strong>th</strong>anks to<br />
<strong>th</strong>e relentless, implacable river <strong>th</strong>at tole<strong>ra</strong>ted your<br />
audacity and bore you on her broad back.<br />
It is <strong>th</strong>e reflection of <strong>th</strong>e river wi<strong>th</strong>in yourself <strong>th</strong>at<br />
streng<strong>th</strong>ens you and builds your cha<strong>ra</strong>cter, and <strong>th</strong>e<br />
quality of your run has less to do wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e course of<br />
your boat <strong>th</strong>an wi<strong>th</strong> spirit wi<strong>th</strong> which you approach<br />
<strong>th</strong>e challenge. Most of us eventually move on to o<strong>th</strong>er<br />
<strong>th</strong>ings. Retu<strong>rn</strong> now and <strong>th</strong>en, and as you negotiate<br />
life’s river, preserve a piece of <strong>th</strong>e Penobscot in your<br />
heart. The challenges you face here will serve you well<br />
downstream.<br />
Phil Gormley<br />
page 24<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
oatman’s quarterly review page 25<br />
Dugald Bremner
Dan Davis, Sr.<br />
An interview at G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong> <strong>Guides</strong>’<br />
<strong>Guides</strong> T<strong>ra</strong>ining Seminar—April 1993<br />
B<strong>ra</strong>d Dimock: We’ve got a completely different<br />
perspective coming up here on river running back a<br />
while ago. This is Dan Davis. He was <strong>th</strong>e first fellow <strong>th</strong>at<br />
you might have called a <strong>River</strong> Ranger. He was a <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
District Ranger.<br />
Davis: Yes.<br />
Dimock: We’ve got one wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e same name, now.<br />
What a coincidence!<br />
...Dan was working back before <strong>th</strong>ey had any boats, so<br />
he had to go down wi<strong>th</strong> a lot of <strong>th</strong>e o<strong>th</strong>er folks, like<br />
Georgie and Gay Staveley and Dock Marston and all.<br />
Here he is, Dan Davis. (applause)<br />
Davis: Thank you! I do feel a little embar<strong>ra</strong>ssed to be<br />
here wi<strong>th</strong> so many people like Don and Bob Rigg, and so<br />
many o<strong>th</strong>ers. But it’s sure been a pleasure to be here and<br />
meet many of you.<br />
What I want to talk about, it says seve<strong>ra</strong>l different<br />
<strong>th</strong>ings in seve<strong>ra</strong>l different prog<strong>ra</strong>ms, and none of <strong>th</strong>em<br />
are what I’m going to be talking about. What I’m going<br />
to be talking about is pretty much <strong>th</strong>e evolution or <strong>th</strong>e<br />
beginning of river management in <strong>th</strong>e Park. Some<br />
people—and I’m not going to be apologizing for<br />
any<strong>th</strong>ing, and I’m not going to be b<strong>ra</strong>gging about<br />
any<strong>th</strong>ing, because <strong>th</strong>ere are some—I <strong>th</strong>ink we heard last<br />
night an indication <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>ere might be too much regulation.<br />
But <strong>th</strong>at came from Alaska where no one<br />
believes anybody can tell anyone what to do. (loud agreement<br />
from audience) In fact, <strong>th</strong>ey blew up all <strong>th</strong>e<br />
National Park Service’s planes in Alaska not too many<br />
years ago because <strong>th</strong>ey wanted to do it <strong>th</strong>eir own way.<br />
I’m almost half kidding, Bob, but not quite. But anyway.<br />
Bob Rigg: Can I have one minute rebuttal<br />
from <strong>th</strong>e crowd: You had your chance last night!<br />
Rigg: ...From <strong>th</strong>e faa standpoint, <strong>th</strong>ey always love to<br />
say, “Hi, I’m So-and-So from <strong>th</strong>e faa and I’m here to<br />
help you.” The same <strong>th</strong>ing happens wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e nps, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
National Park Service, “Hi, I’m from <strong>th</strong>e National Park<br />
Service, I’m here to help you.” Have you ever had <strong>th</strong>at<br />
experience If you haven’t, I’m sure you will. I’m not<br />
sure I believe we’re always here to help you.<br />
Davis: I know <strong>th</strong>at, but…<br />
Rigg: You aren’t like <strong>th</strong>at.<br />
Davis: Just a few statistics—and excuse my notes, I<br />
didn’t know whe<strong>th</strong>er I was going to be talking outside,<br />
and I’m kind of geared for talking outside wi<strong>th</strong> a<br />
podium. A little background of river management: some<br />
groups, none of you, really, have criticized <strong>th</strong>e National<br />
Park Service because we didn’t start managing <strong>th</strong>e river<br />
and coming up wi<strong>th</strong> some regulations long before we<br />
did. O<strong>th</strong>er groups feel <strong>th</strong>at it’s over-managed, but I’m<br />
not going to get too deep ei<strong>th</strong>er way in <strong>th</strong>at. But on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
non-management in <strong>th</strong>e early years, Sier<strong>ra</strong> Club and <strong>th</strong>e<br />
lot have really <strong>th</strong>ought <strong>th</strong>at a lot more should have been<br />
done. But <strong>th</strong>ere’s some statistics <strong>th</strong>at will show <strong>th</strong>e<br />
National Park Service’s position. From <strong>th</strong>e establishment<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e Park, until <strong>th</strong>e end of 1953, which was about<br />
when I showed up, <strong>th</strong>ere had only been 41 trips in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
whole history of <strong>th</strong>e National Park System. It was made<br />
a Park in 1918. Through 1953 ave<strong>ra</strong>ged 1.1 trips a year.<br />
Through <strong>th</strong>at period, and all <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e fifties, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
National Park Service had, at <strong>th</strong>e most, nine permanent<br />
field <strong>ra</strong>ngers for <strong>th</strong>e whole Park. That includes <strong>th</strong>e supervisor<br />
<strong>ra</strong>nger for <strong>th</strong>e Nor<strong>th</strong> Rim, Desert View, <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> Village, and everywhere else. By 1950 <strong>th</strong>e<br />
National Park was getting over a half-million visitors a<br />
year, up above, and one party a year coming down <strong>th</strong>e<br />
river. So it’s pretty obvious where <strong>th</strong>e priority had to be.<br />
Whe<strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>ey wanted it <strong>th</strong>ere or not, didn’t matter,<br />
because when you have a half-million people visiting <strong>th</strong>e<br />
rim and one boat party a year coming down <strong>th</strong>e river, it<br />
has to just kind of take <strong>th</strong>e back seat. …Well, one party<br />
a year, you really don’t need to regulate too much. (audience<br />
laughs) Of <strong>th</strong>ose trips, only fifteen were commercial<br />
parties, like most of you represent now, in <strong>th</strong>at whole<br />
history of G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> National Park, <strong>th</strong>rough 1953.<br />
Again, only fifteen were commercial trips. There were<br />
very few commercial ope<strong>ra</strong>tors <strong>th</strong>en: Hatch had maybe<br />
just a couple trips, Nevills quite a few, Harris-Brennan<br />
had some, and Georgie. Georgie, really, was about <strong>th</strong>e<br />
only one <strong>th</strong>at was running every year <strong>th</strong>ere after 1953.<br />
But <strong>th</strong>e commercial parties really were giving no one<br />
any problem. The Park Service, at least <strong>th</strong>ey felt—and<br />
<strong>th</strong>at was passed on to me when I arrived here—<strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e<br />
commercial parties were all coope<strong>ra</strong>tive and no big<br />
problem.<br />
Starting in about 1950, a lot of completely unprepared<br />
people started coming down. Well, <strong>th</strong>is was after<br />
World War II, all over <strong>th</strong>e country: a whole different<br />
kind of people started showing up everywhere. Some<br />
were absolutely maniacs, some were extremely ingenious<br />
and imaginative people. So many of <strong>th</strong>em…well, I’m<br />
still talking very few numbers, <strong>th</strong>at started to come<br />
down <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>, had no idea what <strong>th</strong>ey were<br />
page 26<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
getting into, and of <strong>th</strong>ese forty-one in <strong>th</strong>at whole history<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e National Park, since it was established, ten quit at<br />
Bright Angel in a state of panic, because half of <strong>th</strong>em<br />
had lost all <strong>th</strong>eir food and gear, a couple of <strong>th</strong>em were<br />
drowned and never found. So <strong>th</strong>at was <strong>th</strong>e way <strong>th</strong>e situation<br />
[was], when I got here.<br />
In 1954, a number of incidents happened <strong>th</strong>at all of a<br />
sudden made us <strong>th</strong>ink <strong>th</strong>at, really, we got to start<br />
watching <strong>th</strong>e river, because <strong>th</strong>e t<strong>ra</strong>ffic, <strong>th</strong>e number of<br />
parties, really started increasing. By 1954, ten came<br />
down <strong>th</strong>at particular year, which is pretty wild. That’s at<br />
least two parties a mon<strong>th</strong> leaving Lees Ferry! (audience<br />
laughs) But <strong>th</strong>e real problems—and <strong>th</strong>ere were some real<br />
problems, and stop me if <strong>th</strong>is is common river lore, but<br />
it’s a story <strong>th</strong>at should be, it’s such a horror story, <strong>th</strong>at<br />
everyone should be aware of it, and it should be passed<br />
on to everyone’s g<strong>ra</strong>ndchildren and all. The Elmer<br />
Purdiman [phonetic spelling] party in 1954, which was<br />
really my first year, since I was <strong>th</strong>e newest <strong>ra</strong>nger, <strong>th</strong>ey<br />
assigned <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> to me—not officially, <strong>th</strong>e rest of<br />
<strong>th</strong>em really weren’t <strong>th</strong>at much interested, and I really<br />
got interested pretty fast in it. But anyway, in 1954,<br />
Elmer Purdiman… And as you may recall, last night—I<br />
don’t know who, whe<strong>th</strong>er it was Gay or who—<br />
mentioned <strong>th</strong>at Purdiman is <strong>th</strong>e man <strong>th</strong>at was running a<br />
party in Glen <strong>Canyon</strong> and hit <strong>th</strong>e only rock in Glen<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> (audience laughs) and <strong>th</strong>e fellow drowned, or<br />
swam underwater to Las Vegas or some<strong>th</strong>ing.<br />
But anyway, <strong>th</strong>e next year, Elmer Purdiman organized<br />
a commercial trip to come down <strong>th</strong>rough G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong>. He had never been here before. He’d messed<br />
around up in Glen. I don’t know if he’d even messed<br />
around in San Juan before. But anyway, he organized<br />
<strong>th</strong>is trip, and on <strong>th</strong>e trip he had his nephew who was<br />
seventeen years old. Does everyone know <strong>th</strong>is story, so I<br />
can quit and move on<br />
Many in audience: No! Start it! Go for it!<br />
Davis: Okay. He had his nephew wi<strong>th</strong> him. Again,<br />
seventeen years old, <strong>th</strong>at’s big enough to row a boat. But<br />
anyway, he promised his sister, <strong>th</strong>e boy’s mo<strong>th</strong>er, <strong>th</strong>at he<br />
would walk him around <strong>th</strong>e four worst <strong>ra</strong>pids. Well <strong>th</strong>ey<br />
got to Hance and so he and <strong>th</strong>e boy took off walking.<br />
Instead of just walking around <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>pid, <strong>th</strong>ey got up on<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Tonto Platform and <strong>th</strong>ree days later, <strong>th</strong>e boy—Elmer<br />
hurt his leg on <strong>th</strong>e Tonto between Hance and <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Kaibab T<strong>ra</strong>il. So <strong>th</strong>e boy, <strong>th</strong>ree days later, showed up at<br />
Phantom and reported <strong>th</strong>at his uncle was disabled on<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Tonto about a day’s trip east of <strong>th</strong>ere. And <strong>th</strong>is boat<br />
party of customers on <strong>th</strong>is commercial trip were still<br />
sitting above <strong>th</strong>e <strong>ra</strong>pids at Hance! (audience laughs)<br />
So he did have a boatman <strong>th</strong>at assumed command—<br />
he’d never been on any river (audience chuckles). So <strong>th</strong>ey<br />
finally gave up and came <strong>th</strong>rough on <strong>th</strong>eir own to<br />
Phantom. We had to go pick up Elmer Purdiman wi<strong>th</strong> a<br />
mule and haul him out. Then <strong>th</strong>e boat party finally<br />
showed up at Phantom Ranch and <strong>th</strong>ey spent a couple<br />
of days debating whe<strong>th</strong>er to quit or go on. They decided<br />
to go on, and did, and got as far as Monument and<br />
decided <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>ey’d had enough. The alleged, or socalled<br />
“leader” at <strong>th</strong>at time had hurt his leg, and so two<br />
of <strong>th</strong>em gave up at Phantom and walked out, and <strong>th</strong>ere<br />
were still six <strong>th</strong>ere when <strong>th</strong>ey decided to quit at Monument<br />
Creek. They walked out <strong>th</strong>e Hermit T<strong>ra</strong>il, leaving<br />
two of <strong>th</strong>em <strong>th</strong>ere, because one had busted his leg up. So<br />
we had to send a mule down and get him. They abandoned<br />
<strong>th</strong>eir boats.<br />
Then <strong>th</strong>at was really Georgie’s second commercial<br />
trip. She came <strong>th</strong>rough and saw <strong>th</strong>ese boats <strong>th</strong>ere and<br />
tied <strong>th</strong>em all toge<strong>th</strong>er and just cut <strong>th</strong>em loose. They<br />
ended up in Lake Mead by <strong>th</strong>emselves. There is no<strong>th</strong>ing<br />
more dangerous <strong>th</strong>an boats sitting on a bank waiting for<br />
someone to get in and head down <strong>th</strong>e river. But anyway,<br />
<strong>th</strong>is really caught a lot of people’s attention <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>ere<br />
are potential problems in <strong>th</strong>is river. (audience laughs)<br />
And <strong>th</strong>en <strong>th</strong>e same year—and I happened to be at<br />
Phantom bo<strong>th</strong> times on <strong>th</strong>ese <strong>th</strong>ings, because I was<br />
living <strong>th</strong>ere. In fact, I lived ten days down and four days<br />
off to go out and <strong>th</strong>en back down to Phantom for ten<br />
days. Anyone I could catch a ride wi<strong>th</strong>, I did, because<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Park didn’t have a boat. In fact, I would be very<br />
reluctant to call myself <strong>th</strong>e <strong>River</strong> Ranger because <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Park had no boa—didn’t have a boat in 1960 when I<br />
left, ei<strong>th</strong>er. (audience laughs) But it’s just as well, because<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey didn’t have anyone to run it (audience laughs)<br />
because we still only had eight permanent <strong>ra</strong>ngers and a<br />
handful of seasonal. So to put toge<strong>th</strong>er boat crews, we<br />
had no staffing. The only river equipment <strong>th</strong>at I inherited<br />
or had when <strong>th</strong>ey said I was in charge of <strong>th</strong>e river,<br />
was a g<strong>ra</strong>ppling hook (audience chuckles) which someone<br />
years ago… Long before <strong>th</strong>at Boy Scout tried to swim<br />
across <strong>th</strong>e year before <strong>th</strong>ere at Phantom, <strong>th</strong>ey figured<br />
anytime <strong>th</strong>ere was a drowning, <strong>th</strong>ey could go down,<br />
really—at Pipe Creek <strong>th</strong>ere was a pretty good swirl <strong>th</strong>ere<br />
at <strong>th</strong>at time—and g<strong>ra</strong>pple (audience groans) and maybe<br />
<strong>th</strong>at would be <strong>th</strong>e eddy <strong>th</strong>at whoever it was, was in. And<br />
two life jackets. They were cork and <strong>th</strong>e canvas was<br />
rotten--you could stick your finger right <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>em.<br />
They were big hunks of cork. I don’t <strong>th</strong>ink <strong>th</strong>ey’ve used<br />
<strong>th</strong>ose since—I <strong>th</strong>ink <strong>th</strong>e Titanic was probably <strong>th</strong>e last<br />
(audience laughs) <strong>th</strong>ey used cork life jackets. But <strong>th</strong>ose<br />
were my <strong>th</strong>ree items of river equipment. But anyway,<br />
<strong>th</strong>at kind of explains why very little attention has been<br />
given to <strong>th</strong>e river by <strong>th</strong>e Park, until <strong>th</strong>ings started<br />
happening <strong>th</strong>at were causing us and <strong>th</strong>em real problems<br />
on <strong>th</strong>e Rim. Because <strong>th</strong>is Purdiman <strong>th</strong>ing, God, we had<br />
mules going everywhere! (audience laughs) And<br />
wondering where any of <strong>th</strong>e people were. But I just can’t<br />
imagine <strong>th</strong>at all of you hadn’t heard <strong>th</strong>at story, because<br />
<strong>th</strong>is is absolutely true wi<strong>th</strong> absolutely no embellishment<br />
whatsoever. (audience laughs)<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 27
Then <strong>th</strong>e same year, Daggett and Beer swam down. I<br />
was at Phantom Ranch when <strong>th</strong>ey came <strong>th</strong>rough. These<br />
are <strong>th</strong>e two <strong>th</strong>at swam down in wet suits and fins, and<br />
towed most of <strong>th</strong>e time or rowed on—each of <strong>th</strong>em had<br />
two of <strong>th</strong>e…I don’t know if <strong>th</strong>ey even have <strong>th</strong>em any<br />
more. They were <strong>th</strong>ese rectangular, Army surplus, rubber<br />
boxes. When <strong>th</strong>ey got to Phantom, <strong>th</strong>ey tried to tell<br />
<strong>th</strong>em <strong>th</strong>ey couldn’t go down. One of <strong>th</strong>em was of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Fred Harvey family, and he had more clout <strong>th</strong>an we did.<br />
(audience chuckles) And so <strong>th</strong>ey really were pretty good.<br />
They had done a lot of homework, but not enough. To<br />
give you an idea, so many of <strong>th</strong>e people coming down,<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey were kind of prepared in a way, but Daggett and<br />
Beers had decided <strong>th</strong>ey might have to portage or go<br />
around or hike out, so <strong>th</strong>ey decided <strong>th</strong>at golf shoes were<br />
<strong>th</strong>e most sensible shoes (audience laughs) in <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>,<br />
for hiking. Maybe <strong>th</strong>e river t<strong>ra</strong>il, which is all sand,<br />
maybe golf shoes would be alright. But <strong>th</strong>ey tried to walk<br />
around <strong>th</strong>e head of Sock, and it took <strong>th</strong>em just about<br />
ten feet, trying to…<strong>th</strong>eir only o<strong>th</strong>er shoes were swim fins<br />
(audience laughs) and you sure can’t climb rock wi<strong>th</strong><br />
<strong>th</strong>ose. They just barely got started trying to get around<br />
Sock, and <strong>th</strong>e golf shoes—<strong>th</strong>ey hadn’t ever tried <strong>th</strong>em,<br />
<strong>th</strong>at was <strong>th</strong>e first time <strong>th</strong>ey’d tried <strong>th</strong>em on rocks and<br />
all, and it was a disaster. So <strong>th</strong>ey jumped back in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Sock, still almost at <strong>th</strong>e head of it, and when <strong>th</strong>ey got to<br />
Phantom, <strong>th</strong>ey had some tennis shoes brought down by<br />
Fred Harvey, and bo<strong>th</strong> of <strong>th</strong>em gave me <strong>th</strong>eir golf shoes!<br />
(audience laughs) I don’t play golf, and <strong>th</strong>e shoes didn’t<br />
fit, ei<strong>th</strong>er. (audience laughs and applauds)<br />
Some of <strong>th</strong>e people going down were really brilliant<br />
people in some ways, and behind where I lived was my<br />
mule cor<strong>ra</strong>l. There’s my whole staff. I’ll show you a<br />
picture of it, wi<strong>th</strong> a horse. (audience chuckles) Behind<br />
<strong>th</strong>e cor<strong>ra</strong>l <strong>th</strong>ere were more boats and canoes and beat up<br />
<strong>th</strong>ings, because so many people just abandoned every<strong>th</strong>ing.<br />
As I said, and it’s very obvious to you, just a loose<br />
or abandoned row boat on <strong>th</strong>e beach on Phantom<br />
Ranch—or anywhere else—is extremely dangerous,<br />
because you don’t know what kid is going to get in it, or<br />
what. So all chained toge<strong>th</strong>er behind <strong>th</strong>e ba<strong>rn</strong> were<br />
more boats <strong>th</strong>an you can shake a stick at—mainly little<br />
tin rowboats from Sears Roebuck, a canoe or two—all<br />
<strong>th</strong>e goofy kind of boats you could have. But one <strong>th</strong>at<br />
people made fun of, but I was really kind of impressed<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> him: his name was Jones, Utah Highway Department,<br />
and a relative of Bus Hatch. I don’t <strong>th</strong>ink it was a<br />
close relative. But anyway, he had made <strong>th</strong>is canoe,<br />
regular stock canoe, but he had reinforced it—almost<br />
armor-plated it—wi<strong>th</strong> aluminum, and covered it. And<br />
<strong>th</strong>en he had a helmet, a hard hat, <strong>th</strong>at he rigged up wi<strong>th</strong><br />
a spotlight.<br />
Dimock: A came<strong>ra</strong>.<br />
Davis: And a came<strong>ra</strong>—he had bo<strong>th</strong>.<br />
Dimock: They called him Bucket-head Jones.<br />
Davis: Yeah, <strong>th</strong>at’s who I’m talking about, is Bucke<strong>th</strong>ead<br />
Jones. (audience laughs) Does everyone know about<br />
<strong>th</strong>is<br />
Seve<strong>ra</strong>l: No.<br />
Davis: Well his canoe was behind my place. And <strong>th</strong>is<br />
hat, he put a came<strong>ra</strong> on his head—he was alone—in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
daytime so he could take movies when he was paddling.<br />
The controls were rigged up so he could paddle and still<br />
take movies. And <strong>th</strong>en at night he switched it to a spotlight<br />
so he could run at night, wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>is big spotlight on<br />
his head and paddle and still see where he was going.<br />
I haven’t seen any river maps or charts since 1960,<br />
but he made a scroll <strong>th</strong>at was <strong>th</strong>e finest <strong>th</strong>ing I had seen<br />
‘til <strong>th</strong>e time I left. But he was, again, a highway engineer,<br />
Utah Map Department—made <strong>th</strong>is scroll of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
whole da<strong>rn</strong>ed river, so you didn’t have to mess around<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e sheets and all. I’m sure <strong>th</strong>ere are <strong>th</strong>ings similar<br />
now. So he could do all <strong>th</strong>ese <strong>th</strong>ings, and see where he<br />
was going and what was ahead, and paddle, and take<br />
movies, and every<strong>th</strong>ing all at once.<br />
He got to Phantom and quit, but came back <strong>th</strong>e next<br />
year and finished <strong>th</strong>e trip.<br />
Audience: In a canoe<br />
Davis: In a canoe, yeah.<br />
Audience: He went everywhere in a canoe.<br />
Davis: But had put a tremendous amount of work in<br />
reinforcing it wi<strong>th</strong> aluminum. It was a penyang [phonetic<br />
spelling] canoe, a short canoe, a fourteen-footer, which is<br />
a short canoe.<br />
And you might wonder why we allowed Jones to<br />
continue on, why we allowed Daggett and Beer to<br />
continue on. One of <strong>th</strong>e biggest problems <strong>th</strong>at faced us<br />
all <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e fifties was a matter of jurisdiction.<br />
Marble <strong>Canyon</strong> was not part of <strong>th</strong>e Park at <strong>th</strong>at time.<br />
The Park boundaries started at Nankoweap, and so <strong>th</strong>ere<br />
was nobody…Well, <strong>th</strong>ere’s a gaging station at Lees Ferry.<br />
There wasn’t even a pit privy, as I recall, in <strong>th</strong>ose days.<br />
Don, I <strong>th</strong>ink, showed some pictures—or someone did—<br />
where <strong>th</strong>ere was just a beach <strong>th</strong>ere and <strong>th</strong>e old historic<br />
houses. And absolutely no<strong>th</strong>ing else.<br />
Yeah. And so <strong>th</strong>ere was no control up <strong>th</strong>ere. That<br />
wasn’t <strong>th</strong>e National Park Service’s. I suppose Bureau of<br />
Land Management at <strong>th</strong>at time. But <strong>th</strong>e Bureau of Land<br />
Management at <strong>th</strong>at time did not really manage much.<br />
They do now, but <strong>th</strong>ey’ve had some chores added by<br />
Congress, to <strong>th</strong>eir duties. There’s <strong>th</strong>e blm. And <strong>th</strong>is put<br />
us in a real jurisdictional problem, because most of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
people <strong>th</strong>at would show up at Phantom Ranch…Well,<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Park had no control over anybody until <strong>th</strong>ey got to<br />
Nankoweap, and we sure weren’t going to station<br />
someone at Nankoweap or put a submarine fence across<br />
<strong>th</strong>ere. And so, really, our first contact wi<strong>th</strong> anybody was<br />
at Phantom Ranch. No, seriously, seve<strong>ra</strong>l went by just<br />
because <strong>th</strong>ey couldn’t control <strong>th</strong>eir c<strong>ra</strong>ft and land.<br />
But <strong>th</strong>e National Park Service having no au<strong>th</strong>ority<br />
page 28<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
whatsoever above Nankoweap meant <strong>th</strong>at anybody <strong>th</strong>at<br />
wanted to, could put in at Lees Ferry and do any<strong>th</strong>ing<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey wanted. And <strong>th</strong>en when <strong>th</strong>ey got to us, it was too<br />
late. By rights, some of <strong>th</strong>em, we should have said, “No,<br />
you can’t go any fur<strong>th</strong>er.” But <strong>th</strong>ere were o<strong>th</strong>er ma<strong>jo</strong>r<br />
problems <strong>th</strong>at made it impossible for us to even do <strong>th</strong>at,<br />
because <strong>th</strong>e state, at <strong>th</strong>at time, claimed <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong> was navigable, and we were in heavy<br />
lawsuits wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e Department of <strong>th</strong>e Interior solicitor<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e State of Arizona. And <strong>th</strong>is was before <strong>th</strong>e<br />
upstream trip was completed. To be navigable, a stream<br />
has to be navigable bo<strong>th</strong> directions. And when <strong>th</strong>e state<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e Park Service were fighting about jurisdiction<br />
over <strong>th</strong>e river…<br />
Audience: I <strong>th</strong>ought it was <strong>th</strong>e Coast Guard, <strong>th</strong>at<br />
was claiming…<br />
Davis: No, <strong>th</strong>e state wanted it, because <strong>th</strong>ey had<br />
planned on running power lines, at high water line,<br />
down, just like Stanton’s <strong>ra</strong>ilroad.<br />
Audience: That was before <strong>th</strong>e Coast Guard got in it<br />
Davis: Yeah. And <strong>th</strong>ey wanted jurisdiction just so<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey could have <strong>th</strong>e right to run power lines at high<br />
water line all <strong>th</strong>e way down G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>. And we, of<br />
course, were fighting <strong>th</strong>at. And so no one really knew<br />
who owned <strong>th</strong>e—not “owned,” <strong>th</strong>at’s not <strong>th</strong>e right<br />
word—but who had <strong>th</strong>e responsibility and au<strong>th</strong>ority to<br />
do any<strong>th</strong>ing on <strong>th</strong>e river during <strong>th</strong>at period. So some of<br />
<strong>th</strong>ese people <strong>th</strong>at really had no business whatsoever<br />
being on <strong>th</strong>e river… Fortunately, most of <strong>th</strong>em <strong>th</strong>at had<br />
no business being <strong>th</strong>ere realized <strong>th</strong>at long before <strong>th</strong>ey got<br />
to Phantom Ranch and bugged out. But o<strong>th</strong>ers did go<br />
down, because we didn’t have <strong>th</strong>e au<strong>th</strong>ority to say you<br />
couldn’t. In spite of <strong>th</strong>at, because of <strong>th</strong>ese problems, <strong>th</strong>at<br />
year, <strong>th</strong>e end of 1954, I came up wi<strong>th</strong> what really was<br />
kind of a phony permit system <strong>th</strong>at really had no clout<br />
at all. Some of <strong>th</strong>e boat ope<strong>ra</strong>tors will maybe remember<br />
it. It was a very, very simple application form, and <strong>th</strong>e<br />
only requirements were—and I don’t see how anyone<br />
could object—was <strong>th</strong>at on <strong>th</strong>is party, someone had to<br />
have gone down G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> once, anyway. And <strong>th</strong>at<br />
was <strong>th</strong>e minimum requirement for <strong>th</strong>at. And <strong>th</strong>en,<br />
because <strong>th</strong>ere were so few parties on <strong>th</strong>e river, you could<br />
be two mon<strong>th</strong>s st<strong>ra</strong>nded wi<strong>th</strong>out seeing ano<strong>th</strong>er soul, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
o<strong>th</strong>er requirement was <strong>th</strong>at you had to have enough<br />
boats so <strong>th</strong>at you could completely lose one boat and<br />
still take your whole party on out to safety somewhere.<br />
And <strong>th</strong>e manifest, or list of passengers. Those are <strong>th</strong>e<br />
only <strong>th</strong>ree <strong>th</strong>ings in <strong>th</strong>is permit. And a lot of people<br />
squalled like heck—some of <strong>th</strong>e commercial people. But<br />
I still <strong>th</strong>ink <strong>th</strong>at was a pretty modest set of requirements<br />
for a river like <strong>th</strong>at.<br />
Audience: We’d take <strong>th</strong>at right now.<br />
Seve<strong>ra</strong>l o<strong>th</strong>ers: Yeah!<br />
Audience: Have you talked to your son (audience<br />
chuckles)<br />
Davis: In many ways, it was way more dangerous<br />
<strong>th</strong>en for <strong>th</strong>e parties, because all <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e sixties we<br />
ave<strong>ra</strong>ged out about two parties on <strong>th</strong>e river at <strong>th</strong>e same<br />
time at any time in <strong>th</strong>e boating season. That’s on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
whole 275 or whatever miles it is. Only two parties, or<br />
less, on <strong>th</strong>e whole river. So if you were st<strong>ra</strong>nded or got in<br />
trouble, it could be a mon<strong>th</strong> before someone came by.<br />
The commercial parties always did notify us—well, one<br />
didn’t notify us, but <strong>th</strong>ey always made reservations at<br />
Phantom Ranch and Phantom Ranch told us. But we<br />
would know when all <strong>th</strong>e commercial parties were<br />
coming <strong>th</strong>rough, but <strong>th</strong>is made it a little more formal:<br />
we knew who <strong>th</strong>eir passengers were, and <strong>th</strong>ings like <strong>th</strong>at,<br />
and we knew when to expect <strong>th</strong>em at Phantom Ranch,<br />
and when <strong>th</strong>ey expected to get out on Lake Mead. The<br />
danger <strong>th</strong>ere is obvious: when you’re <strong>th</strong>e only party on<br />
<strong>th</strong>at whole river from Lees Ferry to Lake Mead, you<br />
could have sat <strong>th</strong>ere all winter before anyone would<br />
have found you if you were in trouble. So I wrote two<br />
little—someone told me Staveley still uses <strong>th</strong>em—two<br />
little mimeog<strong>ra</strong>phed booklets, “Escape Routes from <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do.” I said, “If you’ve mussed up your gear at Mile<br />
such-and-such, <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e nearest way to get out for<br />
help—because you’re on your own, is… And <strong>th</strong>en I<br />
wrote a t<strong>ra</strong>il guide <strong>th</strong>at kind of went wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>is, because<br />
again, if <strong>th</strong>ey got into trouble, <strong>th</strong>ey had to get word to<br />
us. At <strong>th</strong>at particular time, <strong>th</strong>ere was not one single<br />
civilian helicopter in <strong>th</strong>e state of Arizona. There had<br />
been helicopter service on <strong>th</strong>e Esme<strong>ra</strong>lda period, but<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey busted up all <strong>th</strong>eir helicopters—in fact, I <strong>th</strong>ink<br />
<strong>th</strong>ere’s probably still some rotor blades up in <strong>th</strong>e Hance<br />
Mine area, which was <strong>th</strong>e only place <strong>th</strong>ey could land<br />
legally.<br />
Audience: I’ve seen <strong>th</strong>at! Still up <strong>th</strong>ere.<br />
Davis: That was <strong>th</strong>eir base in <strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong>. See, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Hance Mines were owned by William Randolph Hearst,<br />
and we had condemned G<strong>ra</strong>ndview Point. Hearst owned<br />
all of G<strong>ra</strong>ndview Point. That was his mill site, <strong>th</strong>e old<br />
Hance mill site. And <strong>th</strong>en Hearst acquired <strong>th</strong>at land. It<br />
was a very ugly combination to get G<strong>ra</strong>ndview. And<br />
Hearst was so mad <strong>th</strong>at he—<strong>th</strong>is was a public offer—he<br />
would give all of <strong>th</strong>e asbestos mines to any mining<br />
company in <strong>th</strong>e country <strong>th</strong>at would go in <strong>th</strong>ere and work<br />
<strong>th</strong>em, just out of o<strong>rn</strong>eriness or spite to us. It was so bad<br />
<strong>th</strong>at I got in <strong>th</strong>ere wi<strong>th</strong> a similometer [phonetic spelling]<br />
and went <strong>th</strong>rough every one of <strong>th</strong>em, because <strong>th</strong>is was in<br />
u<strong>ra</strong>nium days. And, God, had <strong>th</strong>ere been u<strong>ra</strong>nium <strong>th</strong>ere,<br />
we’d have been really dead. But fortunately, <strong>th</strong>ere was<br />
no<strong>th</strong>ing but asbestos. I’m <strong>ra</strong>mbling, I know, but…<br />
Audience: That’s okay.<br />
Davis: But anyway, <strong>th</strong>ese “permits” <strong>th</strong>at we gave to<br />
commercial ope<strong>ra</strong>tors weren’t really permits, because<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey didn’t have <strong>th</strong>e effect of a legal, binding, permit,<br />
but it was just our way of finding out who was coming.<br />
Wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e exception of <strong>th</strong>e commercial parties, we never<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 29
knew when anyone left Lees Ferry, because we had no<br />
communications or any<strong>th</strong>ing else wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>em. The first,<br />
like Daggett and Beer, <strong>th</strong>e swimmers, a number of o<strong>th</strong>er<br />
really marginal outfits—<strong>th</strong>e first time we ever knew <strong>th</strong>ey<br />
were on <strong>th</strong>e river was when <strong>th</strong>ey showed up at Phantom<br />
Ranch. So <strong>th</strong>ey could have been rotting away upstream<br />
for mon<strong>th</strong>s and no one would ever have known it—or<br />
we wouldn’t know it.<br />
But anyway, I started to mention helicopters. There<br />
was a helicopter, Bob was involved… Well, no, he didn’t<br />
go out on it. The people <strong>th</strong>at abandoned <strong>th</strong>e Esmerelda<br />
went out on it.<br />
Rigg: I rode one down <strong>th</strong>ere in fifty [1950].<br />
Davis: Yeah, but <strong>th</strong>at outfit went broke. They busted<br />
up all <strong>th</strong>eir helicopters. And helicopters at <strong>th</strong>at time<br />
were really marginal <strong>th</strong>ings. They were Korean War—<br />
well, <strong>th</strong>e civilian helicopters were very small Bells. I’ll<br />
show you a picture of one. The closest civilian helicopter<br />
was in Denver, and it would take two days—<strong>th</strong>ey<br />
trucked <strong>th</strong>em, <strong>th</strong>ey didn’t fly <strong>th</strong>em. (audience laughs)<br />
Audience: That gives you an idea!<br />
Davis: And we did use <strong>th</strong>ose helicopters later on<br />
when <strong>th</strong>e two big planes… But it’d take two days for<br />
<strong>th</strong>em to t<strong>ra</strong>iler <strong>th</strong>e helicopter to <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>.<br />
And <strong>th</strong>ere were none <strong>th</strong>at we could get in Califo<strong>rn</strong>ia,<br />
which was a surprise. The military had helicopters: H-<br />
19s and H-21s. Bo<strong>th</strong> were <strong>th</strong>e basic Korean War helicopter.<br />
They would come if <strong>th</strong>ere was absolute sign of<br />
life, but never for a body. The first bodies <strong>th</strong>ey ever came<br />
for was when <strong>th</strong>e twa and United planes c<strong>ra</strong>shed. And<br />
<strong>th</strong>at was <strong>th</strong>e last time <strong>th</strong>ey ever came for a body, to my<br />
knowledge.<br />
So we had no helicopters available, quick. And so it<br />
was to everyone’s advantage to let us know <strong>th</strong>at you’re<br />
going down <strong>th</strong>e river. But a lot of people resented <strong>th</strong>at,<br />
because <strong>th</strong>at was <strong>th</strong>e gove<strong>rn</strong>ment telling you what to do.<br />
But as Bob said, “All we want to do is help you.” (audience<br />
laughs)<br />
Audience: It hasn’t changed.<br />
Davis: (laughs) Yeah. But <strong>th</strong>e only rejection in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
whole… Again, <strong>th</strong>is permit did not have <strong>th</strong>e legality of,<br />
you know, like a driving permit or some<strong>th</strong>ing. So <strong>th</strong>ere<br />
was only one party <strong>th</strong>at was rejected in <strong>th</strong>e whole 1960s<br />
<strong>th</strong>at I was <strong>th</strong>ere: Had he left Lees Ferry wi<strong>th</strong>out telling<br />
us, why, he’d have ei<strong>th</strong>er killed himself or showed up at<br />
Phantom Ranch. But <strong>th</strong>is was a guy <strong>th</strong>at wanted to<br />
come down in a seaplane wi<strong>th</strong>out wings. (audience<br />
laughs) The wings were off of it. But fortunately, he<br />
<strong>th</strong>ought a permit was required and so he wrote for a<br />
permit and we tu<strong>rn</strong>ed him down. Really, he could have<br />
gone to Lees Ferry and kicked off, and <strong>th</strong>ere was no<strong>th</strong>ing<br />
we could have done about it.<br />
Audience: Floated on down <strong>th</strong>e river.<br />
Davis: Well, wi<strong>th</strong> no wings.<br />
I don’t know whe<strong>th</strong>er a hull seaplane or floats,<br />
because he didn’t described it—he just said a seaplane<br />
wi<strong>th</strong>out wings.<br />
Audience: Maybe wi<strong>th</strong> little oars coming out of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
side, instead of wings.<br />
Audience: I <strong>th</strong>ink he would have made it.<br />
Audience: …wings back on, and fly it back out.<br />
Davis: It’s hard to say. But I <strong>th</strong>ink we said “no,” and<br />
he believed us.<br />
Audience: Are <strong>th</strong>ose illegal now<br />
Davis: Seaplanes I <strong>th</strong>ink now <strong>th</strong>e permits would<br />
have <strong>th</strong>e effect of law if you were denied a permit—very<br />
definitely. But again, we still didn’t even know who<br />
owned <strong>th</strong>e river at <strong>th</strong>at time, because, again, <strong>th</strong>e state<br />
wanted to run power lines down. The Coast Guard did<br />
get into it. We used <strong>th</strong>em on our side in proving <strong>th</strong>at<br />
<strong>th</strong>e <strong>Canyon</strong> was not a navigable stream, and <strong>th</strong>ey agreed<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> us. But again, <strong>th</strong>is was before <strong>th</strong>e first successful<br />
upstream trip. That would almost make it navigable, in a<br />
marginal way. But by <strong>th</strong>en <strong>th</strong>e dam was…<br />
Audience: Seems like I remember a George Van der…<br />
Davis: He was here way after me. I <strong>th</strong>ink he was<br />
Chief Ranger or some<strong>th</strong>ing, oh, ten years after I left.<br />
I did mention one <strong>th</strong>ing <strong>th</strong>at was quite impressive to<br />
me: Up until <strong>th</strong>e fifties, every boat party had about 130-<br />
140 miles of river <strong>th</strong>at was <strong>th</strong>eir, in effect, private river,<br />
to do what <strong>th</strong>ey wanted, camp where <strong>th</strong>ey wanted. Now,<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> 100 parties at any given time in <strong>th</strong>e summer, each<br />
boat party, if you split it up, has two and a half miles per<br />
party. That kind of means <strong>th</strong>at you do need to have<br />
some control on when people leave Lees Ferry, and a<br />
whole lot of o<strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>ings. But when <strong>th</strong>ere were two<br />
parties a mon<strong>th</strong>, it was great.<br />
I’ve talked way more <strong>th</strong>an I should. Let me<br />
show…<strong>th</strong>e slides I have will be repeats of some. I don’t<br />
have too many, less <strong>th</strong>an a half t<strong>ra</strong>y, and I’ll go <strong>th</strong>rough<br />
<strong>th</strong>em fast, because I know it’s getting late. These are<br />
mainly just quick shots of what it looked like <strong>th</strong>en. Tad<br />
and Bob talk about bu<strong>rn</strong>ing driftwood, but <strong>th</strong>ey never<br />
showed you any real piles of driftwood. (audience laughs)<br />
(slide show starts, people move around) This, of course, is<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Bright Angel confluence. My cabin is in <strong>th</strong>ose<br />
cottonwood trees <strong>th</strong>ere…<br />
page 30<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
A Letter from Bessie Hyde<br />
Afriend in Utah recently received, <strong>th</strong>ough<br />
friends of friends, a previously unknown letter<br />
from Bessie Hyde. She wrote it to her aunt and<br />
uncle, Ru<strong>th</strong> and Millard Haley of Pittsburgh, hours<br />
before her departure from Green <strong>River</strong>, Utah. The letter<br />
sheds some new light on <strong>th</strong>e Hydes as <strong>th</strong>ey prepared to<br />
depart on <strong>th</strong>eir fatal river <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>ey.<br />
On a factual basis, Bessie mentions <strong>th</strong>e scow as fiveand-one-half<br />
feet wide, not five feet wide as most o<strong>th</strong>er<br />
sources state. If accu<strong>ra</strong>te, <strong>th</strong>is would make <strong>th</strong>e boat a bit<br />
more stable, yet less maneuve<strong>ra</strong>ble <strong>th</strong>an previously<br />
<strong>th</strong>ought. Bessie also mentions a recent visit to Pittsburgh—perhaps<br />
on her 1927 trip East wi<strong>th</strong> Glen.<br />
More significant, I <strong>th</strong>ink, is <strong>th</strong>e vagueness of <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
plans and <strong>th</strong>e lack of any mention of writing, publicity,<br />
or <strong>th</strong>e setting of records. This agg<strong>ra</strong>vates a nagging suspicion<br />
in <strong>th</strong>e back of my mind. When I wrote my biog<strong>ra</strong>phy<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e Hydes I tried to rely on factual data instead<br />
of rumor and my<strong>th</strong>. Yet I may have inadvertently bought<br />
into <strong>th</strong>e prevalent “record-setting and publicity” motive<br />
for <strong>th</strong>e Hydes’ adventure. Reviewing <strong>th</strong>e data now, I can<br />
find little factual basis for <strong>th</strong>at assumption, o<strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>an<br />
<strong>th</strong>e cryptic notes made by Dock Marston on an interview<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> Adolph Sutro made some <strong>th</strong>irty years after<br />
<strong>th</strong>at Hydes perished. (Sutro had ridden wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e Hydes<br />
for two days below Phantom Ranch and been <strong>th</strong>e last to<br />
see <strong>th</strong>em.) Yet <strong>th</strong>e notes of <strong>th</strong>e interview did not reveal<br />
what <strong>th</strong>e questions were, or <strong>th</strong>e actual verbatim<br />
responses. And in previous correspondence between<br />
Marston and Sutro, Sutro claimed to remember very<br />
little about <strong>th</strong>e trip.<br />
In fact, if Bessie’s letter is at all indicative of <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
trip plans, it appears <strong>th</strong>ey were simply on a g<strong>ra</strong>nd adventure,<br />
much as Glen and his sister Jeanne had been on<br />
<strong>th</strong>eir Salmon <strong>River</strong> <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>ey two years earlier. Any strong<br />
<strong>th</strong>oughts of publicity may have come much later—on<br />
<strong>th</strong>e river when Sutro was wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e Hydes; later, in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
evolution of Sutro’s memories; or even in Marston’s<br />
much-abbreviated question-and-answer notes wi<strong>th</strong><br />
Sutro.<br />
The lessons to me as a historian are to beware of<br />
my<strong>th</strong>, avoid assumptions—mine or ano<strong>th</strong>er’s—and be<br />
vigilant to <strong>th</strong>e power of suggestion on memories and<br />
perceptions. And remember <strong>th</strong>at people often hear what<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey intend to hear. The best sources are nearly always<br />
<strong>th</strong>ose recorded at <strong>th</strong>e time by <strong>th</strong>ose who were directly<br />
involved. Wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>at, here’s Bessie:<br />
Green <strong>River</strong>, Utah<br />
Oct. 20, 1928<br />
Dear Aunt Ru<strong>th</strong> and Uncle Mill,<br />
I certainly did en<strong>jo</strong>y seeing you all in Pittsburgh<br />
and only wish my visit could have been longer.<br />
Margaret wrote <strong>th</strong>at Upton was <strong>th</strong>ere for a few<br />
days and I know how glad you were to see him.<br />
How is he getting along in school<br />
This is a funny little town (<strong>th</strong>ey claim over six<br />
hundred population - but it just isn’t possible).<br />
We plan on leaving in <strong>th</strong>ree or four hours. The<br />
boat is p<strong>ra</strong>ctically finished. It’s <strong>ra</strong><strong>th</strong>er large 20<br />
ft. long, 5-1/2 ft. wide and 3 ft. high, and is<br />
guided by a large sweep oar at each end.<br />
We will go down <strong>th</strong>e Green <strong>River</strong> and <strong>th</strong>en <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do, (how far will depend on how bad <strong>th</strong>e<br />
water gets) making about a <strong>th</strong>ree two mon<strong>th</strong>s<br />
trip. From <strong>th</strong>e river we’ll go to Los Angeles and<br />
spend <strong>th</strong>ree or four days <strong>th</strong>ere, and <strong>th</strong>en on up<br />
to San F<strong>ra</strong>ncisco. I plan on doing a lot of<br />
sketching on <strong>th</strong>e trip, as, of course, <strong>th</strong>e scenery<br />
will be wonderful.<br />
We had one great sc<strong>ra</strong>mble getting ready to<br />
leave-packing for <strong>th</strong>e river trip-packing <strong>th</strong>e<br />
trunk to be sent to Los Angeles-and storing <strong>th</strong>e<br />
o<strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>ings in <strong>th</strong>e attic at <strong>th</strong>e o<strong>th</strong>er house.<br />
Packing is an awful bo<strong>th</strong>er anyway, al<strong>th</strong>ough I<br />
must admit Glen did most of it.<br />
I’m terribly excited and awfully anxious to<br />
start.<br />
Write to me sometime (at Hansen, Idaho), and<br />
I’ll write you all about <strong>th</strong>e trip when we get out.<br />
Love to Sally Lou<br />
Lovingly,<br />
Bessie Hyde<br />
Footnote: I was able to t<strong>ra</strong>ck <strong>th</strong>e source of <strong>th</strong>is letter<br />
back to Millard and Ru<strong>th</strong> Haley’s only living child,<br />
Sa<strong>ra</strong>h Louise Tu<strong>ra</strong>n. She was a toddler when <strong>th</strong>e letter<br />
was written and was <strong>th</strong>e “Sally Lou” in <strong>th</strong>e letter. Upton<br />
was her elder bro<strong>th</strong>er. Unfortunately, Ms. Tu<strong>ra</strong>n could<br />
shed little o<strong>th</strong>er information on <strong>th</strong>e story of <strong>th</strong>e Hydes.<br />
B<strong>ra</strong>d Dimock<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 31
The Toquerville My<strong>th</strong><br />
For most of <strong>th</strong>e years since Wes Larsen<br />
published his <strong>th</strong>eory about <strong>th</strong>e fate of Powell’s<br />
<strong>th</strong>ree missing men, <strong>th</strong>is story has remained in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
realm of river runner’s campfire ghost stories. But now<br />
<strong>th</strong>at Larsen’s <strong>th</strong>eory has been <strong>th</strong>rust onto <strong>th</strong>e national<br />
stage in John K<strong>ra</strong>kauer’s new book, it’s time to<br />
examine Larsen’s <strong>th</strong>eory wi<strong>th</strong> a light more penet<strong>ra</strong>ting<br />
<strong>th</strong>an a campfire.<br />
In his 1993 <strong>Canyon</strong> Legacy article, Larsen<br />
presented an 1883 letter from William Leany to fellow<br />
Mormon pioneer John Steele, conce<strong>rn</strong>ing a triple<br />
killing <strong>th</strong>at had occurred “in our ward”. One of<br />
Larsen’s cent<strong>ra</strong>l claims is <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e only time Leany and<br />
Steele were living in <strong>th</strong>e same ward was at <strong>th</strong>e time of<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Powell expedition. But <strong>th</strong>is is simply not true.<br />
According to public LDS biog<strong>ra</strong>phical sources, <strong>th</strong>ere<br />
were four periods when Leany and Steele lived in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
same place at <strong>th</strong>e same time, first in Nauvoo, Illinois,<br />
<strong>th</strong>en in Salt Lake City, <strong>th</strong>en for years in Parowan,<br />
where Leany served in <strong>th</strong>e militia for a year under <strong>th</strong>e<br />
command of John Steele, and finally in sou<strong>th</strong>e<strong>rn</strong><br />
Utah, where Leany lived in Harrisburg and Steele<br />
lived in Toquerville. Fur<strong>th</strong>ermore, at <strong>th</strong>e time of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Powell expedition, Leany and Steele were not in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
same ward. According to <strong>th</strong>e official LDS record,<br />
Annals of <strong>th</strong>e Sou<strong>th</strong>e<strong>rn</strong> Utah Mission, compiled by<br />
James G. Bleak, which is readily available in many<br />
lib<strong>ra</strong>ries, it was only in November of 1869, mon<strong>th</strong>s<br />
after Powell’s men disappeared, <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e semi-annual<br />
conference of <strong>th</strong>e LDS Sou<strong>th</strong>e<strong>rn</strong> Mission combined<br />
Harrisburg and Toquerville into <strong>th</strong>e same ward, where<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey would remain until <strong>th</strong>ey were split up again in<br />
March of 1874.<br />
If you allow <strong>th</strong>at Leany was writing his letter years<br />
later, and might have been using a blurred definition<br />
of when <strong>th</strong>ey shared “our ward”, <strong>th</strong>en you open <strong>th</strong>e<br />
door to an event, a triple murder, <strong>th</strong>at fits <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Toquerville letter perfectly. According to <strong>th</strong>e Annals<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e Sou<strong>th</strong>e<strong>rn</strong> Utah Mission, in March of 1875: “At<br />
Toquerville a terrible calamity occurred on <strong>th</strong>is date.<br />
Richard Fryer who for some time had, at intervals<br />
been subject to attacks of insanity, <strong>th</strong>is date shot his<br />
wife and babe, and also Thomas Batty, who had been<br />
trying to subdue <strong>th</strong>e frenzied man. Fryer was killed by<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Sheriff’s posse, who were attempting to capture<br />
him. Mrs. Fryer died soon after being shot. Thomas<br />
Batty, died on <strong>th</strong>e 17<strong>th</strong>, and <strong>th</strong>e babe on <strong>th</strong>e 18<strong>th</strong>.”<br />
In his discussion of <strong>th</strong>e Toquerville letter, Larsen<br />
insisted on referring to <strong>th</strong>e “<strong>th</strong>ree men” mentioned in<br />
it, but in fact <strong>th</strong>e original letter never said any<strong>th</strong>ing<br />
about “<strong>th</strong>ree men”, only “<strong>th</strong>e <strong>th</strong>ree” and “<strong>th</strong>ose <strong>th</strong>ree”.<br />
Thus a wife and baby fit <strong>th</strong>e letter. The posse killing<br />
<strong>th</strong>e killer fits <strong>th</strong>e Toquerville letter’s: “<strong>th</strong>e murderer<br />
killed to stop <strong>th</strong>e shedding of more blood.”<br />
The Toquerville murders received ma<strong>jo</strong>r publicity<br />
in Utah newspapers. The Deseret Evening News began<br />
its cove<strong>ra</strong>ge on March 16, 1875, and on March 23<br />
carried a long report from a witness, William W.<br />
Hammond:<br />
“Richard Fryer has been at times, for a year or<br />
two, laboring under fits of tempo<strong>ra</strong>ry<br />
insanity....He some time ago ordered his wife,<br />
Teresa Fryer, to leave his house and take her<br />
infant son, which she did, and has since lived<br />
most of <strong>th</strong>e time wi<strong>th</strong> Thomas Batty and<br />
family....Fryer went <strong>th</strong>is mo<strong>rn</strong>ing, about 7 o’clock,<br />
and knocked at <strong>th</strong>e door of Thomas Batty’s<br />
house...he asked her if she had not brought<br />
disg<strong>ra</strong>ce and shame enough upon him Fryer <strong>th</strong>en<br />
drew a loaded revolver and fired a shot at<br />
Thomas Batty, <strong>th</strong>e ball entering below <strong>th</strong>e left<br />
eye and coming out at <strong>th</strong>e back of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
head....Fryer <strong>th</strong>en tu<strong>rn</strong>ed and fired at his wife,<br />
who was yet in bed, <strong>th</strong>e ball entering below <strong>th</strong>e<br />
left ear and lodging in <strong>th</strong>e head....Fryer <strong>th</strong>en shot<br />
his infant son, who was in bed wi<strong>th</strong> his deceased<br />
mo<strong>th</strong>er....After completing <strong>th</strong>e t<strong>ra</strong>gedy, Fryer<br />
went to his house....The sheriff of Kane County,<br />
as soon as he was notified of <strong>th</strong>e facts, went as<br />
near <strong>th</strong>e house of Fryer as was deemed safe and<br />
called from <strong>th</strong>e bystanders a posse, instructing<br />
<strong>th</strong>em to arm <strong>th</strong>emselves, which <strong>th</strong>ey did....<strong>th</strong>e<br />
sheriff called and asked Fryer if he would<br />
surrender. The first time he answered, “I will not,<br />
if you want me, come and take me.” The second<br />
time his answer was, “I will not; I have had<br />
enough of you and Bishop Bringhurst”. The position<br />
occupied by Fryer precluded <strong>th</strong>e possibility<br />
of taking him wi<strong>th</strong>out a fur<strong>th</strong>er sacrifice of life.<br />
After viewing <strong>th</strong>e position and believing <strong>th</strong>at<br />
unless immediate action was taken more innocent<br />
blood should be shed, <strong>th</strong>e sheriff ordered his<br />
posse to open fire, which <strong>th</strong>ey did, killing Fryer<br />
instantly.”<br />
The ph<strong>ra</strong>se in Leany’s letter, “<strong>th</strong>e murderer killed<br />
to stop <strong>th</strong>e shedding of more blood”, is p<strong>ra</strong>ctically a<br />
quotation of <strong>th</strong>e newspaper’s “unless immediate action<br />
was taken more innocent blood would be shed.”<br />
The anti-LDS Salt Lake City Tribune, introduced a<br />
fur<strong>th</strong>er element into <strong>th</strong>e story, blaming Fryer’s actions<br />
page 32<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
on Mormon fanaticism. It concluded its March 17<strong>th</strong><br />
article wi<strong>th</strong>: “Fryer has been subject for some time to<br />
fits of insanity, but had appeared of late to have recovered,<br />
and was at work yesterday plastering. He had<br />
since driven his wife from home. When <strong>th</strong>e Sheriff<br />
went to take him he told him to keep away, as he was<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Lord.” And <strong>th</strong>e Tribune concluded a March 26<br />
article wi<strong>th</strong>: “INSANITY PRODUCED BY RELI-<br />
GIOUS EXCITEMENT: This man Fryer, was sometime<br />
ago a steady, industrious man, and a very zealous<br />
Mormon. He had, no doubt, built his fai<strong>th</strong> and hopes<br />
on Brigham, <strong>th</strong>e false Prophet, and when he lea<strong>rn</strong>ed<br />
<strong>th</strong>at Brig. had been sent to prison, and <strong>th</strong>at he had<br />
denied polygamy, and all his teachings were false, it<br />
affected his mind to <strong>th</strong>at extent <strong>th</strong>at he became<br />
insane, and caused him to commit <strong>th</strong>is terrible deed.”<br />
An element of religious fanaticism in Fryer’s actions<br />
fits well wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e strong tone of religious apocalypse in<br />
Leany’s letter.<br />
The Toquerville murders were not forgotten by<br />
history. In <strong>th</strong>e 1980s, a Toquerville historian published<br />
two books on Toquerville history, and he included <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Fryer/Batty murders in bo<strong>th</strong> books. The name of <strong>th</strong>is<br />
Toquerville historian was Wes Larsen. Before <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Toquerville letter was ever discovered, Larsen had<br />
already published <strong>th</strong>e perfect explanation for it. Yet<br />
when Larsen presented <strong>th</strong>e Toquerville letter to <strong>th</strong>e<br />
public, he omitted mentioning an explanation <strong>th</strong>at<br />
covered almost every detail. If Larsen had related <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Fryer/Batty story, his Powell <strong>th</strong>eory probably would<br />
have been ignored.<br />
Larsen has made seve<strong>ra</strong>l o<strong>th</strong>er claims for <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Toquerville letter <strong>th</strong>at don’t stand up.<br />
The Toquerville letter speaks of “<strong>th</strong>e killing of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
<strong>th</strong>ree in one room of our ward”. A ward is an ecclesiastical<br />
district. Larsen tries to conjure <strong>th</strong>e mere word<br />
“ward” into a “ward house”, and suggests <strong>th</strong>at because<br />
only Toquerville had a ward house wi<strong>th</strong> more <strong>th</strong>an one<br />
room, <strong>th</strong>e killing must have occurred in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Toquerville ward house. This is a leap of illogic.<br />
(Regarding “one room”, <strong>th</strong>e Toquerville letter may<br />
diverge from <strong>th</strong>e Deseret News, which initially<br />
reported <strong>th</strong>e murders took place in two rooms, but<br />
<strong>th</strong>en Hammond’s eyewitness report said <strong>th</strong>at after<br />
killing Batty, “Fryer <strong>th</strong>en tu<strong>rn</strong>ed and fired at his wife”,<br />
which makes no mention of a second room).<br />
Larsen suggests <strong>th</strong>at Powell’s men were intercepted<br />
and <strong>th</strong>en taken to Toquerville because it was <strong>th</strong>e<br />
county seat. At <strong>th</strong>at time Toquerville was indeed <strong>th</strong>e<br />
seat of Kane County, but <strong>th</strong>e much larger St. George<br />
was <strong>th</strong>e seat of Washington County, as well as <strong>th</strong>e<br />
gove<strong>rn</strong>ment and church capital of <strong>th</strong>e Sou<strong>th</strong>e<strong>rn</strong><br />
Mission. It’s unlikely Powell’s men would have reached<br />
Toquerville on <strong>th</strong>eir own, because <strong>th</strong>ey would have<br />
had to pass St. George or <strong>th</strong>e t<strong>ra</strong>ils leading to it.<br />
When you are coming nor<strong>th</strong> from <strong>th</strong>e Arizona Strip,<br />
old St. George is highly visible on its heights, and <strong>th</strong>e<br />
only way to (just barely) miss spotting it is to follow<br />
<strong>th</strong>e base of <strong>th</strong>e Hurricane Cliffs, but <strong>th</strong>en Powell’s men<br />
would have seen Fort Pierce and <strong>th</strong>e ma<strong>jo</strong>r t<strong>ra</strong>il<br />
coming down <strong>th</strong>e Hurricane Cliffs and heading for St.<br />
George, which soon became <strong>th</strong>e Honeymoon T<strong>ra</strong>il.<br />
If <strong>th</strong>e murder of Powell’s men was a carefully<br />
guarded LDS secret, William Leany would have been<br />
<strong>th</strong>e very last person to be told about it. In September<br />
of 1869, Leany was on trial by <strong>th</strong>e church au<strong>th</strong>orities<br />
for being a heretical troublemaker.<br />
In trying to explain “<strong>th</strong>e murderer killed to stop<br />
<strong>th</strong>e shedding of more blood”, Larsen suggests a high<br />
level LDS conspi<strong>ra</strong>cy to silence <strong>th</strong>e killer of Powell’s<br />
men and <strong>th</strong>us save <strong>th</strong>e church from serious retaliation.<br />
Larsen points <strong>th</strong>e finger at Eli Pace, <strong>th</strong>e son-in-law of<br />
John D. Lee, who was shot in late January of 1870<br />
under st<strong>ra</strong>nge circumstances, which were <strong>th</strong>en covered<br />
up. Larsen may be quite correct about <strong>th</strong>ere being a<br />
cover up of Pace’s dea<strong>th</strong>, but at <strong>th</strong>e time it seems to<br />
have been an open secret as to why Pace was killed<br />
and why <strong>th</strong>e real reason was covered up. Lee’s<br />
daughter Nancy had already been abandoned by her<br />
first husband, and now Eli, her second husband, was<br />
fixing to leave her too. According to a letter, from<br />
John D. Lee’s former neighbor, who signs himself<br />
“Bosco”, published in The Salt Lake Daily Tribune on<br />
Jan. 1, 1875, soon after Lee’s arrest: : “Her next<br />
husband was a young Mormon boy by <strong>th</strong>e name of Eli<br />
Pace; it is believed by many <strong>th</strong>at he got tired of her<br />
and was going to leave her. ONE NIGHT HE WAS<br />
KILLED, when no one but his wife was present. He<br />
was shot <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e heart, not wi<strong>th</strong> a shot-gun but<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> a Colt’s revolver. His wife got a light, and <strong>th</strong>en<br />
gave <strong>th</strong>e alarm, stating <strong>th</strong>at Eli had shot himself. A<br />
post mortem examination was held, but no evidence<br />
was brought to prove <strong>th</strong>at Lee’s daughter killed him.<br />
Lee is a great visionist; he was not long in settling <strong>th</strong>e<br />
matter, for <strong>th</strong>e spirit of Eli Pace came back and told<br />
Lee <strong>th</strong>at he had killed himself. He, <strong>th</strong>e spirit, was<br />
happy in Heaven, and wanted his fa<strong>th</strong>er to take care<br />
of his loving wife Nancy. Of course, no one believed in<br />
Lee’s vision, as he never fails to try his visions or<br />
dreams when occasion requires.”<br />
Historians too have been known to see ghosts.<br />
Don Lago<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 33
Indian Canals in Deer <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
Amy<strong>th</strong> has been growing during <strong>th</strong>e past couple<br />
of decades among canyoneers conce<strong>rn</strong>ing <strong>th</strong>e<br />
presence of Indian irrigation canals along <strong>th</strong>e<br />
west side of Deer Valley above <strong>th</strong>e Patio. There is also<br />
speculation <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e canals were extended by placer<br />
miners to workings along <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>. Bo<strong>th</strong> are<br />
intriguing ideas because <strong>th</strong>ere are obvious rock walls<br />
present, so <strong>th</strong>e idea deserves serious examination.<br />
Field work reveals <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e notion of <strong>th</strong>e canals isn’t<br />
plausible based on <strong>th</strong>e positions of <strong>th</strong>e so called canals,<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e locations of <strong>th</strong>e springs <strong>th</strong>at served as <strong>th</strong>e source<br />
for <strong>th</strong>e water and <strong>th</strong>e plots <strong>th</strong>at were supposed to be irrigated.<br />
The following are primary conside<strong>ra</strong>tions.<br />
(1) The rock wall is on <strong>th</strong>e west side of Deer Creek<br />
meaning: (a) it is at <strong>th</strong>e bottom or downstream end of<br />
all <strong>th</strong>e plots <strong>th</strong>at were supposed to have been irrigated<br />
by <strong>th</strong>e Indians, and (b) it is in a position where <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Indians would have had to divert water across Deer<br />
Creek to reach <strong>th</strong>ose plots! The present position of Deer<br />
Creek has not changed since <strong>th</strong>e Cogswell landslides to<br />
<strong>th</strong>e east based on <strong>th</strong>e morphology of <strong>th</strong>e west sloping<br />
bedrock and debris fans off Cogswell Butte <strong>th</strong>at occupy<br />
<strong>th</strong>e valley floor. Thus <strong>th</strong>e canals would have had to<br />
deliver water uphill to <strong>th</strong>e irrigated plots.<br />
(2) The actual construction of <strong>th</strong>e wall is observed to<br />
be a series of cribs <strong>th</strong>at utilize a common east wall or<br />
closely aligned series of east walls. Each crib is subdivided<br />
on its nor<strong>th</strong> and sou<strong>th</strong> sides from adjacent cribs by<br />
secondary walls. The cribs were <strong>th</strong>en infilled wi<strong>th</strong> course<br />
rock and leveled off, each having a different elevation.<br />
Some downstream platforms are higher <strong>th</strong>an <strong>th</strong>ose<br />
upstream.<br />
(3) There is no hint of a buried canal wi<strong>th</strong>in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
cribs, or any <strong>th</strong>rough-going channel interior to <strong>th</strong>e wall<br />
<strong>th</strong>at pa<strong>ra</strong>llels <strong>th</strong>e creek. Also, <strong>th</strong>ere is no impermeable<br />
material in <strong>th</strong>e construction to prevent leakage of water.<br />
To <strong>th</strong>e cont<strong>ra</strong>ry, <strong>th</strong>e crib infills are course rocks <strong>th</strong>at are<br />
highly permeable and would not allow water to move<br />
more <strong>th</strong>an a few feet along <strong>th</strong>eir leng<strong>th</strong>.<br />
(4) The springs in Deer canyon are on <strong>th</strong>e east side<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e valley. If anyone were going to build a canal irrigation<br />
system in <strong>th</strong>e valley, <strong>th</strong>ey would have contoured<br />
<strong>th</strong>e canals along <strong>th</strong>e east side of <strong>th</strong>e valley from <strong>th</strong>e<br />
springs to positions above <strong>th</strong>e plots to be irrigated. This<br />
would have allowed for a t<strong>ra</strong>ditional g<strong>ra</strong>vity feed system.<br />
This was never done.<br />
(5) The extension of <strong>th</strong>e preexisting Indian canal by<br />
gold placer miners during <strong>th</strong>e 1870 rush was supposed to<br />
have exited <strong>th</strong>e valley over <strong>th</strong>e landslide debris immediately<br />
to <strong>th</strong>e west of <strong>th</strong>e Tapeats Sandstone outcrop at<br />
<strong>th</strong>e Patio, not <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e narrows. There are no<br />
constructed walls or canals along <strong>th</strong>e toe of <strong>th</strong>e slide<br />
west of <strong>th</strong>e narrows or along <strong>th</strong>e slopes facing <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>. Fur<strong>th</strong>ermore, <strong>th</strong>e elevation of <strong>th</strong>e toe of<br />
<strong>th</strong>e slide debris next to <strong>th</strong>e Tapeats outcrops at <strong>th</strong>e Deer<br />
Narrows is above <strong>th</strong>e elevation of <strong>th</strong>e walls in Deer<br />
Creek making <strong>th</strong>is a second example where water in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
canals would have had to move uphill.<br />
There is plenty of evidence <strong>th</strong>at Indians utilized Deer<br />
Valley. They even constructed rock buildings <strong>th</strong>ere.<br />
E. O. Beaman, <strong>th</strong>e photog<strong>ra</strong>pher on Powell’s second<br />
expedition, described how people helping Powell reconnoiter<br />
Kanab <strong>Canyon</strong> discovered gold in <strong>th</strong>e sands in<br />
<strong>th</strong>e lower part of <strong>th</strong>e canyon in December 1871. This set<br />
off an intense gold rush <strong>th</strong>at focused on placer deposits<br />
along <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong> near and upstream of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
mou<strong>th</strong> of Kanab <strong>Canyon</strong>. When Beaman visited <strong>th</strong>e<br />
area in 1872, by coming up from Kanab <strong>Canyon</strong>, some<br />
miners were probing as far east as Deer <strong>Canyon</strong>, but at<br />
<strong>th</strong>at time <strong>th</strong>ey had not done much <strong>th</strong>ere or occupied <strong>th</strong>e<br />
place.<br />
Clarence Dutton visited Tapeats Amphi<strong>th</strong>eater in<br />
1880, and found <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e miners had built a forerunner<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e Thunder <strong>River</strong> t<strong>ra</strong>il into Deer <strong>Canyon</strong>. It is<br />
obvious <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e miners had gotten into Deer <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
and done a conside<strong>ra</strong>ble amount of work in <strong>th</strong>e area<br />
after Beaman’s trip. It is also likely <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e miners built<br />
structures on abandoned Indian structures. I infer <strong>th</strong>at<br />
<strong>th</strong>e miners who occupied Deer Valley built <strong>th</strong>e cribs<br />
along <strong>th</strong>e west side of <strong>th</strong>e valley to get out of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
humidity, heat, brush and bugs <strong>th</strong>at go wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e bottoms<br />
next to <strong>th</strong>e creek.<br />
The occupation of <strong>th</strong>e area by <strong>th</strong>e miners was brief,<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e location sufficiently remote, <strong>th</strong>at it doesn’t<br />
appear <strong>th</strong>ey imported any wood to build more permanent<br />
dwelling structures. It is likely <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e cribs <strong>th</strong>ey<br />
built were little more <strong>th</strong>an platforms to sleep on or to<br />
pitch a tent on. These platforms wi<strong>th</strong> pretty much a<br />
common east wall are <strong>th</strong>e my<strong>th</strong>ical Indian canals.<br />
The reality appears to be very different <strong>th</strong>an <strong>th</strong>e<br />
my<strong>th</strong>, but no less interesting as canyon lore!<br />
Peter Huntoon<br />
page 34<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
Fun Wi<strong>th</strong> History<br />
In an online discussion recently, river historian Roy<br />
Webb wrote: “A question just popped into my head<br />
regarding Deer Creek, certainly one of my favorite<br />
places in <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd; who first went up <strong>th</strong>ere from <strong>th</strong>e<br />
river, and how did <strong>th</strong>ey know of it “<br />
I <strong>th</strong>ought it might be fun to try to find <strong>th</strong>e answer.<br />
Not only was it fun, but I lea<strong>rn</strong>ed some <strong>th</strong>ings I didn’t<br />
expect. Here’s how I approached it, and what I lea<strong>rn</strong>ed. I<br />
started wi<strong>th</strong> a process of elimination.<br />
James White—if you believe his story—floated past<br />
here on or about September 4<strong>th</strong>, 1867 and described<br />
how he looked at a stream of water<br />
…about as large as my body <strong>th</strong>at was running<br />
<strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e solid rocks of <strong>th</strong>e canyon about 75<br />
feet above my head, and <strong>th</strong>e clinging moss to <strong>th</strong>e<br />
rocks made a beautiful sight. The beauty of it can<br />
not be described.<br />
Hiking was not a big feature of White’s alleged trip,<br />
and in any event, when he was pulled out of <strong>th</strong>e river at<br />
Callville <strong>th</strong>ree days later he couldn’t even stand up. So<br />
White, even if he did go by here, missed his chance to<br />
be <strong>th</strong>e first to discover what’s up above <strong>th</strong>e falls.<br />
Next I looked at <strong>th</strong>e <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>als kept by George Y.<br />
B<strong>ra</strong>dley and Jack Sumner on Powell’s first trip, which<br />
passed by here on August 23rd, 1869. Sumner wrote:<br />
Passed 2 cold streams coming in from <strong>th</strong>e nor<strong>th</strong>,<br />
one of <strong>th</strong>em pouring off a cliff 200 feet high.<br />
Nei<strong>th</strong>er B<strong>ra</strong>dley nor Sumner mention any hiking—<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey were, in fact, <strong>ra</strong>cing to get out of <strong>th</strong>e canyon before<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey <strong>ra</strong>n out of food altoge<strong>th</strong>er. So <strong>th</strong>ey missed <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
chance, too.<br />
The next trip down <strong>th</strong>e river was Powell’s 2nd expedition,<br />
in 1872. On <strong>th</strong>is trip, Stephen Vandiver Jones<br />
wrote in his <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al:<br />
Friday, September 6<strong>th</strong>, 1872 ... made Camp No.<br />
105 on right side just below <strong>th</strong>e mou<strong>th</strong> of a clear,<br />
cold stream, coming from <strong>th</strong>e nor<strong>th</strong>. It is <strong>th</strong>e<br />
prettiest stream and <strong>th</strong>e coldest yet seen flowing<br />
into <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do. Fifteen feet wide and a foot<br />
deep, it flows from one ledge of rocks to ano<strong>th</strong>er,<br />
not in falls, but miniature <strong>ra</strong>pids. From Beaman’s<br />
description <strong>th</strong>is must be <strong>th</strong>e creek <strong>th</strong>at he and<br />
Riley visited coming up <strong>th</strong>e river from Kanab<br />
Cañon, 15 miles below....<br />
Saturday, September 7<strong>th</strong>, 1872. Waited for<br />
pictures up <strong>th</strong>e creek. No<strong>th</strong>ing to eat except<br />
bread and coffee. Started after dinner and <strong>ra</strong>n<br />
<strong>ra</strong>pid after <strong>ra</strong>pid, none of <strong>th</strong>em very bad for 4<br />
miles, when we came to a small clear stream<br />
pouring out of <strong>th</strong>e cliff into <strong>th</strong>e river wi<strong>th</strong> a fall<br />
of about 175 feet. Stopped for pictures. This is<br />
<strong>th</strong>e fall—Beaman has photog<strong>ra</strong>phed and called<br />
“Buckskin Cascade.” Ran into <strong>th</strong>e g<strong>ra</strong>nite 2 3/8<br />
miles below camp and found a narrow, swift river<br />
for a mile and a half. Ran <strong>th</strong>is afte<strong>rn</strong>oon one of<br />
<strong>th</strong>e worst <strong>ra</strong>pids on <strong>th</strong>e trip. Near sunset heard<br />
some one halloo on right bank. Pulled in and<br />
found Adair, Adams and Joe Hamblin wi<strong>th</strong><br />
<strong>ra</strong>tions and mail at <strong>th</strong>e mou<strong>th</strong> of lower Kanab<br />
Cañon. The water from <strong>th</strong>e river had backed<br />
into <strong>th</strong>e cañon, so <strong>ra</strong>n our boats up 300 yards and<br />
made Camp No. 106 on right side of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do and in Kanab Cañon.<br />
Sunday, September 8<strong>th</strong>, 1872.... The view at<br />
<strong>th</strong>e mou<strong>th</strong> of Kanab Cañon is g<strong>ra</strong>nd, but gloomy.<br />
The walls 2000 feet high and very narrow.<br />
Silence and solitude reign. Numerous signs of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
visit of <strong>th</strong>e miners last spring. Thousands of<br />
dollars were spent here to no purpose. This<br />
evening <strong>th</strong>e Ma<strong>jo</strong>r told me <strong>th</strong>at owing to <strong>th</strong>e<br />
shattered condition of our boats and <strong>th</strong>e high<br />
stage of <strong>th</strong>e water <strong>th</strong>at we would leave <strong>th</strong>e river<br />
here.... So tomorrow mo<strong>rn</strong>ing we bid <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do good-bye and start for Kanab.<br />
When <strong>th</strong>ey camped on Friday, September 6<strong>th</strong>, Jones<br />
was mistaken about where <strong>th</strong>ey were: Tapeats Creek was<br />
not <strong>th</strong>e place Beaman had visited. But obviously,<br />
Powell’s men already knew some<strong>th</strong>ing about <strong>th</strong>e area,<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e next day, on <strong>th</strong>e 7<strong>th</strong>, <strong>th</strong>ey found “Buckskin<br />
Cascade”—today’s Deer Creek Falls—which <strong>th</strong>ey recognized<br />
as <strong>th</strong>e waterfall <strong>th</strong>at Beaman had photog<strong>ra</strong>phed.<br />
E. O. Beaman was <strong>th</strong>e photog<strong>ra</strong>pher who had accompanied<br />
Powell’s river trip down <strong>th</strong>e Green and Colo<strong>ra</strong>do<br />
to Lees Ferry in 1871. But what was he doing taking<br />
pictures at Deer Creek before Powell’s 2nd trip got<br />
<strong>th</strong>ere<br />
Jones’ next <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al entry provided <strong>th</strong>e necessary clue<br />
when he mentioned “<strong>th</strong>e miners last spring.”. E.O.<br />
Beaman left <strong>th</strong>e 2nd Powell expedition in February,<br />
1872, while it was wintering in Kanab, Utah. This was<br />
just before <strong>th</strong>e ill-fated “Kanab Creek Gold Rush” which<br />
was set off when, at Powell’s request, some packers investigated<br />
Kanab Creek as a possible resupply point for his<br />
river expedition, and reported finding some colors from<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>vel <strong>th</strong>ey panned at <strong>th</strong>e river. A couple mon<strong>th</strong>s later,<br />
as miners poured into <strong>th</strong>e canyon, Beaman headed down<br />
Kanab Creek to check out <strong>th</strong>e excitement.<br />
Expedition leader John Wesley Powell also kept a<br />
<strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al on <strong>th</strong>at 2nd trip, and here’s what he had to say<br />
on Sept 7<strong>th</strong>, 1872:<br />
Spend forenoon in exploring Tapeats Creek<br />
below. Tis a deep gulch in wall of t<strong>ra</strong>p. Find<br />
Shinumo Ruins. Come down after dinner to<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 35
cata<strong>ra</strong>ct. Make Picture. Climb over into Surprise<br />
Valley. Run down to mou<strong>th</strong> of Kanab.<br />
This wasn’t all <strong>th</strong>at informative, so next I looked at<br />
<strong>th</strong>e “official” history of <strong>th</strong>e expedition, written by Frederick<br />
S. Dellenbaugh, and published years later under<br />
<strong>th</strong>e title “A <strong>Canyon</strong> Voyage”, where I read:<br />
...as soon as we launched for<strong>th</strong> after dinner, we<br />
began to look longingly for <strong>th</strong>e mou<strong>th</strong> of Kanab<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> and <strong>th</strong>e pack-t<strong>ra</strong>in. The river was much<br />
easier in every respect, and after our experiences<br />
of <strong>th</strong>e previous days it seemed mere play. The<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nite <strong>ra</strong>n up for a mile or two, but <strong>th</strong>en we<br />
entered sedimentary st<strong>ra</strong>ta and came to a pretty<br />
little cascade falling <strong>th</strong>ru a crevice on <strong>th</strong>e right<br />
from a valley hidden behind a low wall. We at<br />
once recognized it as <strong>th</strong>e one which Beaman had<br />
photog<strong>ra</strong>phed when he and Riley had made <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
way up along <strong>th</strong>e rocks from <strong>th</strong>e mou<strong>th</strong> of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Kanab during <strong>th</strong>e winter. We remembered <strong>th</strong>at<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey had called it ten miles to <strong>th</strong>e Kanab from<br />
<strong>th</strong>is place, and after we had climbed up to<br />
examine what <strong>th</strong>ey had named Surprise Valley<br />
we went on expecting to reach <strong>th</strong>e Kanab before<br />
night.”<br />
Now Powell’s entry was beginning to make sense.<br />
After dinner (“bread and coffee” for <strong>th</strong>e mid-day meal),<br />
<strong>th</strong>e expedition left <strong>th</strong>e vicinity of Tapeats Creek and<br />
shortly arrived at Deer Creek Falls—<strong>th</strong>e “cata<strong>ra</strong>ct”<strong>th</strong>at<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey photog<strong>ra</strong>phed—before climbing up to “Surprise<br />
Valley.” Afterwards, <strong>th</strong>ey continued <strong>th</strong>e rest of <strong>th</strong>e way<br />
down to Kanab Creek for camp.<br />
But what’s <strong>th</strong>is about “Surprise Valley” Today <strong>th</strong>at’s<br />
a long hike to be doing on a nearly empty stomach,<br />
especially on an afte<strong>rn</strong>oon where you’re also boating all<br />
<strong>th</strong>e way from Tapeats Creek to Kanab Creek. To find<br />
out, I looked in Dellenbaugh’s o<strong>th</strong>er book, “The<br />
Romance of <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>,” <strong>th</strong>inking I might find<br />
more details. I didn’t, but I did find one of E. O.<br />
Beaman’s photog<strong>ra</strong>phs, a picture of what we call “Deer<br />
Creek Falls.” The caption reads: The Outlet of <strong>th</strong>e Creek<br />
in Surprise Valley, near <strong>th</strong>e Mou<strong>th</strong> of Kanab <strong>Canyon</strong>,<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
Could if be <strong>th</strong>at Beaman’s “Surprise Valley” was<br />
really <strong>th</strong>e Deer Creek Valley After all, someone hiking<br />
upstream wouldn’t see any valley from river level, and if<br />
<strong>th</strong>ey climbed up past Deer Creek Narrows <strong>th</strong>ey’d probably<br />
be surprised when <strong>th</strong>ey looked down into Deer<br />
Creek Valley.<br />
In 1874, Beaman published an article about his<br />
adventures on Powell’s second expedition, and explo<strong>ra</strong>tions<br />
in and around <strong>th</strong>e area of <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>,<br />
including his visit to <strong>th</strong>e mou<strong>th</strong> of Kanab Creek during<br />
<strong>th</strong>e “gold rush.” After describing his trip down Kanab<br />
Creek to <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong>, he wrote:<br />
The day after our arrival I visited a mining camp,<br />
of which one John Riley was chief... Expecting to<br />
find <strong>th</strong>em hard at work “panning out,” we were<br />
somewhat surprised to find only one person in<br />
camp, Riley having gone up <strong>th</strong>e river a week<br />
previously wi<strong>th</strong> a small rocker to work a newlydiscovered<br />
flat, and <strong>th</strong>e o<strong>th</strong>ers of <strong>th</strong>e company<br />
being absent on a “prospecting trip.” Near <strong>th</strong>e<br />
place was a water-fall of <strong>th</strong>ree hundred feet into<br />
<strong>th</strong>e river from a late<strong>ra</strong>l gulch called Marble<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong>.<br />
As <strong>th</strong>e scenery was reported fine, I resolved to<br />
visit it; and so, shouldering my came<strong>ra</strong>, I started,<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> one assistant, for a ten-mile climb over<br />
limestone and marble bowlders. I found <strong>th</strong>e<br />
cata<strong>ra</strong>ct fully equal to <strong>th</strong>e description given of it.<br />
The walls rise perpendicularly five hundred feet,<br />
and <strong>th</strong>e fall is unbroken and magnificent.<br />
....<br />
We had now advanced one mile up <strong>th</strong>e river<br />
from <strong>th</strong>e Buckskin Cascade, as I named <strong>th</strong>e fall,<br />
but, before ret<strong>ra</strong>cing our steps, we determined to<br />
go on over <strong>th</strong>e shelf, and, if possible, explore a<br />
st<strong>ra</strong>nge fissure we had observed in <strong>th</strong>e wall of <strong>th</strong>e<br />
cañon. Expecting to find a narrow gorge or<br />
chasm, what was our surprise and wonder at<br />
suddenly emerging into a lovely valley, flower<br />
decked and verdant! In its centre stood a grove of<br />
young cotton-wood trees, <strong>th</strong>rough which flowed<br />
a limpid stream of water, fed by a dozen springs<br />
gushing from <strong>th</strong>e foot of <strong>th</strong>e mountain. Almost<br />
involuntarily we named <strong>th</strong>is Surprise Valley,<br />
al<strong>th</strong>ough pa<strong>ra</strong>dise it seemed to our rock-wearied<br />
eyes. Bent upon en<strong>jo</strong>ying <strong>th</strong>e “good <strong>th</strong>e gods had<br />
provided,” we sc<strong>ra</strong>mbled down <strong>th</strong>e mountain,<br />
and under <strong>th</strong>e shade of <strong>th</strong>e cotton-woods<br />
en<strong>jo</strong>yed <strong>th</strong>e refreshment of sleep and food.<br />
The valley, or mountain-basin, as it really is, is<br />
a half-mile wide and two miles long. It is <strong>th</strong>e<br />
outlet of a gulch, and is surrounded by mountains<br />
<strong>th</strong>ree <strong>th</strong>ousand feet high. The summits of <strong>th</strong>ese<br />
mountains are covered wi<strong>th</strong> ete<strong>rn</strong>al snows, and<br />
greatly resemble <strong>th</strong>e glaciers as seen from <strong>th</strong>e<br />
valley of Chamouni. On <strong>th</strong>e river-side a wall of<br />
slate and sandstone rises to <strong>th</strong>e height of eight<br />
hundred feet, and <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>is a mountainstream<br />
has cut a narrow channel or crevice, from<br />
which a late<strong>ra</strong>l crevice cuts <strong>th</strong>rough to <strong>th</strong>e<br />
river—a distance of <strong>th</strong>ree hundred yards—from<br />
which <strong>th</strong>ere is a beautiful view of <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do.<br />
The stream, running <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>e lower crevice,<br />
drops down in g<strong>ra</strong>dual cascades until it makes <strong>th</strong>e<br />
final plunge, where it is precipitated into <strong>th</strong>e<br />
river in a sheet five feet wide by a fall of one<br />
hundred feet drop. Because of its serpentine<br />
course, I was unable to take a picture giving <strong>th</strong>e<br />
entire crevice, and was obliged to content myself<br />
wi<strong>th</strong> taking views at different points. Walking<br />
about on projecting ledges, in many places so<br />
narrow as scarcely to afford foo<strong>th</strong>old, wi<strong>th</strong><br />
page 36<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
yawning chasms benea<strong>th</strong> us, and <strong>th</strong>e muffled<br />
sounds of water running far below confusing <strong>th</strong>e<br />
ear, gave photog<strong>ra</strong>phing a charm unknown to <strong>th</strong>e<br />
studios; and, while pursuing our perilous way, a<br />
curious archaeological observation was made. In<br />
many places <strong>th</strong>e ledge seemed to be formed artificially<br />
of stone and mortar, and in one place <strong>th</strong>e<br />
impress of a beautiful feminine hand g<strong>ra</strong>ced <strong>th</strong>e<br />
wall. This hand was like a dark blood-stain in<br />
color, and was nei<strong>th</strong>er carved nor laid on wi<strong>th</strong><br />
any material <strong>th</strong>e chemicals would act on. Could<br />
it be <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>is was <strong>th</strong>e mausoleum of some longextinct<br />
<strong>ra</strong>ce, and <strong>th</strong>is hand so symmetrical and<br />
womanly reached out from <strong>th</strong>e ete<strong>rn</strong>al rocks to<br />
tell <strong>th</strong>e tale of its ossification Just where two<br />
stately cotton-woods flung tricksy shadows over a<br />
noisy little cascade, we paused to weave fancies<br />
weird and st<strong>ra</strong>nge around <strong>th</strong>e evidences of gene<strong>ra</strong>tions<br />
unknown, who “rolled down <strong>th</strong>e ringing<br />
grooves of time,” and left no<strong>th</strong>ing to tell <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
story.<br />
expedition, <strong>th</strong>e water in <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> was running<br />
high enough to row 300 yards up Kanab Creek to camp.<br />
The only time I’ve done any<strong>th</strong>ing like <strong>th</strong>at, it was<br />
running 50,000 or 60,000 cfs. Ano<strong>th</strong>er interesting item:<br />
at <strong>th</strong>is point on <strong>th</strong>e 2nd trip, <strong>th</strong>ey were reduced to<br />
eating meals of “bread and coffee”—not much different<br />
<strong>th</strong>an <strong>th</strong>e first trip.<br />
And how about <strong>th</strong>is: in late April, or early May, in<br />
1872, <strong>th</strong>e snow covered cliffs above Deer Creek Valley<br />
resembled a scene in <strong>th</strong>e French Alps! Even allowing for<br />
some artistic elabo<strong>ra</strong>tion, <strong>th</strong>at’s remarkable. I’ve been to<br />
Deer Creek in early May each year for a quarter of a<br />
century, and never have seen any<strong>th</strong>ing to match <strong>th</strong>at.<br />
Global Warming today, perhaps Or just a late, bad,<br />
winter in 1872<br />
Drifter Smi<strong>th</strong><br />
Our provision now running low, it became<br />
necessary to get back to <strong>th</strong>e Kanab-Cañon as<br />
expeditiously as possible, and, <strong>ra</strong><strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>an climb<br />
<strong>th</strong>e rocks, we determined to sail down <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Colo<strong>ra</strong>do on a <strong>ra</strong>ft. Having constructed a float, it<br />
was found not sufficiently large to carry two; and<br />
my companion, preferring <strong>th</strong>e overland route to<br />
<strong>th</strong>e water, started on foot, leaving me to solitary<br />
navigation. In <strong>th</strong>ree minutes after pushing off, I<br />
had run a terrific <strong>ra</strong>pid, and in less <strong>th</strong>an an hour<br />
reached camp, a distance of twelve miles.<br />
In company wi<strong>th</strong> Mr. Samuel Rudd, I again<br />
climbed over <strong>th</strong>e cliffs into Surprise Valley. After<br />
remaining for two days in <strong>th</strong>e valley, during<br />
which time I was busy wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e came<strong>ra</strong>, we<br />
retu<strong>rn</strong>ed to <strong>th</strong>e deserted rendevous at Kanab<br />
Cañon...<br />
And he concludes his account by mentioning <strong>th</strong>at he<br />
reached Kanab again on <strong>th</strong>e 10<strong>th</strong> of May, 1872. Powell’s<br />
2nd river trip didn’t leave Lees Ferry until mid-August,<br />
so <strong>th</strong>ere was plenty of time to find out all <strong>th</strong>e details of<br />
Beaman’s adventure, and look at his pictures.<br />
I’ve quoted at leng<strong>th</strong> from Beaman’s description,<br />
because—in addition to <strong>th</strong>e wonderful prose and quaint<br />
spelling—he managed to answer my questions and <strong>th</strong>row<br />
in some o<strong>th</strong>er interesting information besides. His<br />
description of “Surprise Valley” is unmistakable, it’s what<br />
is known as “Deer Creek Valley” today. So it was <strong>th</strong>e<br />
men of Powell’s second expedition who were <strong>th</strong>e first to<br />
climb up <strong>th</strong>ere from <strong>th</strong>e river, on September 7<strong>th</strong>, 1872.<br />
They had heard about it from E. O. Beaman, who in<br />
tu<strong>rn</strong> had lea<strong>rn</strong>ed about it from <strong>th</strong>e would-be gold<br />
miners. While <strong>th</strong>e miners may have wasted <strong>th</strong>ousands of<br />
dollars “to no purpose,” a few of <strong>th</strong>em must have gone<br />
home wi<strong>th</strong> unforgettable memories of Deer Creek.<br />
But <strong>th</strong>at’s not all. At <strong>th</strong>e end of <strong>th</strong>e second Powell<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 37
Kate Thompson<br />
page 38<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
Ballot Comments<br />
If you’ve been on a GTS river trip, what is <strong>th</strong>e best<br />
<strong>th</strong>ing you got out of it<br />
Education.<br />
The networking and communication wi<strong>th</strong> guides from<br />
o<strong>th</strong>er companies.<br />
Met a ple<strong>th</strong>o<strong>ra</strong> of wonderful humans. Including my wife.<br />
Interpretation – Peter Huntoon, geologist – he’s amazingly<br />
good at layman’s (but technical) explanations.<br />
Incredibly knowledgeable regarding G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>.<br />
Community sharing of river culture and knowledge.<br />
Meeting fellow guides.<br />
Sex.<br />
All <strong>th</strong>e information and connection to o<strong>th</strong>er guides.<br />
Various speakers and topics; good company; chance to<br />
inte<strong>ra</strong>ct wi<strong>th</strong> folks from o<strong>th</strong>er outfitters, science and<br />
privates.<br />
We could drink during <strong>th</strong>e day (just kidding). But seriously,<br />
meeting people from o<strong>th</strong>er companies.<br />
Meeting NPS, interpreters, o<strong>th</strong>er guides – some of whom<br />
I still know today.<br />
I en<strong>jo</strong>yed spending a longer amount of time wi<strong>th</strong> guides<br />
who I wouldn’t or couldn’t or hadn’t spent much time<br />
wi<strong>th</strong>. I also appreciated lea<strong>rn</strong>ing <strong>th</strong>e techniques used<br />
by natu<strong>ra</strong>lists, guides, researchers, scientists, musicians<br />
for sharing/teaching/explaining all <strong>th</strong>e cool natu<strong>ra</strong>l<br />
and human history facts/information <strong>th</strong>ey had lea<strong>rn</strong>ed<br />
about G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong>, <strong>th</strong>e river, <strong>th</strong>e wea<strong>th</strong>er, <strong>th</strong>e<br />
plants.<br />
Inte<strong>ra</strong>cting wi<strong>th</strong> o<strong>th</strong>er boatmen, networking, and archaeology<br />
info.<br />
A lot of knowledge, experience. What a trip. Too much<br />
to lea<strong>rn</strong> in one 14 day run.<br />
The right to be denied participation.<br />
The interpretive classes and cama<strong>ra</strong>derie.<br />
Communication wi<strong>th</strong> guides from o<strong>th</strong>er companies.<br />
O<strong>th</strong>er river company connections wi<strong>th</strong> o<strong>th</strong>er guides.<br />
Education.<br />
Cama<strong>ra</strong>derie.<br />
Inte<strong>ra</strong>cting wi<strong>th</strong> folks from o<strong>th</strong>er companies and park<br />
service. Great interpretive knowledge too!<br />
Vast knowledge. Inter-company cama<strong>ra</strong>derie.<br />
Money.<br />
Mingling wi<strong>th</strong> NPS folks.<br />
Meeting guides from o<strong>th</strong>er companies.<br />
Getting to know o<strong>th</strong>er guides, o<strong>th</strong>er ways of doing <strong>th</strong>ings,<br />
o<strong>th</strong>er perspectives.<br />
Inte<strong>ra</strong>ction wi<strong>th</strong> scientists to help my interpretation.<br />
Getting to know o<strong>th</strong>er guides. It’s <strong>th</strong>e best trip on <strong>th</strong>e<br />
river.<br />
Info to give to my passengers.<br />
Meeting new people, <strong>th</strong>e lea<strong>rn</strong>ing (lectures) and inte<strong>ra</strong>ction.<br />
Education.<br />
Meeting o<strong>th</strong>er guides. Paddle boating.<br />
Being wi<strong>th</strong> fellow guides and hearing what is important<br />
and significant about <strong>th</strong>e river and <strong>th</strong>e canyon for<br />
<strong>th</strong>em.<br />
Education, meeting o<strong>th</strong>er guides.<br />
Interpretation, hikes, socializing.<br />
Geology info, plant info.<br />
More of a variety of information/education.<br />
Meeting more of <strong>th</strong>e guiding community.<br />
Meeting <strong>th</strong>e o<strong>th</strong>er guides.<br />
Cama<strong>ra</strong>derie wi<strong>th</strong> o<strong>th</strong>er guides from o<strong>th</strong>er companies and<br />
more ways to describe, teach, interpret information to<br />
guests.<br />
Peter Huntoon is terrific.<br />
The opportunity to meet and get to know guides from<br />
o<strong>th</strong>er outfits.<br />
Good education and bonding.<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> history and science. Making friends.<br />
Met and got to know guides from o<strong>th</strong>er companies, NPS<br />
personnel, etc…<br />
Ongoing education and great networking.<br />
Getting to know guides from o<strong>th</strong>er companies. Great<br />
plant talks/walks. WFR refresher, Swift water rescue.<br />
Best trip ever!<br />
What improvements to <strong>th</strong>e GTS river trip would<br />
entice you (or o<strong>th</strong>er guides) to come<br />
It should be for employed guides only.<br />
Having <strong>th</strong>e time. It is difficult to get away just before <strong>th</strong>e<br />
season starts.<br />
If our outfitters would pay for <strong>th</strong>e time (i.e. missed work)<br />
I would love to lead one for you some day. I <strong>th</strong>ink it<br />
would be a fit.<br />
I’d come if I worked on <strong>th</strong>e river regularly.<br />
The trip was great. I’d go again.<br />
I am planning on going <strong>th</strong>is spring! It has been a matter<br />
of timing!<br />
More sex.<br />
None needed – can’t wait to sign up again.<br />
Personally I <strong>th</strong>ought <strong>th</strong>e one I did was great.<br />
This space is too small for a good discussion, but outfitters<br />
should pay guides to attend.<br />
I don’t know <strong>th</strong>at it needs improvement; I assume participation<br />
has fallen off (editor’s note: it hasn’t). In <strong>th</strong>e<br />
70’s, 80’s and early 90’s <strong>th</strong>e GTS was about lea<strong>rn</strong>ing<br />
from en<strong>th</strong>usiastic teachers about <strong>th</strong>e place and it’s<br />
people and lea<strong>rn</strong>ing how to take care of <strong>th</strong>e place and<br />
ourselves, making <strong>th</strong>e work smarter, easier and safer.<br />
Open <strong>th</strong>e trip to guides who are part-time or freelance<br />
guiding. Offer an additional trip (fall)<br />
Joe Pollock (TL) did a good <strong>jo</strong>b, but a little better plan-<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 39
ning was lacking. We did hit some bad wea<strong>th</strong>er and<br />
winds. (Editor’s note: Joe may be a great TL, but he<br />
can’t control <strong>th</strong>e wea<strong>th</strong>er, sorry. Dealing wi<strong>th</strong><br />
inclement wea<strong>th</strong>er and less <strong>th</strong>an perfect conditions<br />
are part of guiding).<br />
Allow more private boaters to participate.<br />
Just more publicity.<br />
It should have a tangible product <strong>th</strong>at could <strong>th</strong>en be<br />
disseminated to a wider group.<br />
Unusual activities (hikes).<br />
A quicker trip – using motors. Perhaps two trips could<br />
be run <strong>th</strong>en.<br />
Better experts, famous boatmen/women on trip (B<strong>ra</strong>d<br />
Dimock, Theresa Yates).<br />
Have everyone exchange or everyone go all <strong>th</strong>e way.<br />
Make sure interpretation and explo<strong>ra</strong>tion are equal, as<br />
bo<strong>th</strong> are equally important.<br />
Need more interest from motor guides.<br />
Get enough funding to pay some top-notch resource<br />
people.<br />
Take care of passengers.<br />
Smaller group size.<br />
Swiftwater rescue t<strong>ra</strong>ining.<br />
Nude disco night, roll more rocks off cliffs.<br />
Make sure participants are serious, not just out for a<br />
$100 river trip.<br />
More time options.<br />
Getting <strong>th</strong>e newsletter announcing <strong>th</strong>e GTS before <strong>th</strong>e<br />
GTS trip has already launched.<br />
It’s just fine.<br />
Have two different trips or have it later in <strong>th</strong>e spring – I<br />
work at a ski area until April 10<strong>th</strong> each year.<br />
Have it in April – conflicts wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e ski season.<br />
All share equally in work.<br />
More participation.<br />
Run it in March.<br />
Timing – not much you can do about <strong>th</strong>at.<br />
Being able to go wi<strong>th</strong>out a steady <strong>jo</strong>b wi<strong>th</strong> an outfitter.<br />
I’m freelance and never know if I’ll have work in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong>. This disqualifies me from participating on<br />
<strong>th</strong>e GTS river trip, even <strong>th</strong>ough I’d really like to.<br />
Why not open it to all licensed guides Would <strong>th</strong>is<br />
create too much demand<br />
Less drinking in <strong>th</strong>e evenings.<br />
More lea<strong>rn</strong>ing.<br />
Dories, kayaks, music.<br />
How about some insight into reading <strong>th</strong>e river.<br />
Can’t recall any changes I’d make.<br />
Do it one or two weeks later. I can’t take <strong>th</strong>at much time<br />
off my ski <strong>jo</strong>b.<br />
I love <strong>th</strong>e canyon, but also love a lot of o<strong>th</strong>er places <strong>th</strong>at<br />
I don’t have enough time in already.<br />
It’s a difficult time of year for me to commit to <strong>th</strong>at<br />
much time unpaid. WFR refresher and swiftwater<br />
rescue.<br />
They’re great as-is, and feel just right for <strong>th</strong>e guide<br />
community. Good time of year too.<br />
What improvements would you suggest for <strong>th</strong>e<br />
GTS land session<br />
Schedule it so it coincides wi<strong>th</strong> my spring break.<br />
None.<br />
Schedule was too full after dinner. Up-run (movie) was<br />
really important but people were ready to dance and<br />
be social.<br />
None.<br />
None, <strong>th</strong>ey’re great as is!<br />
I usually don’t go. I’d love to, but it’s always during <strong>th</strong>e<br />
ski season.<br />
Free t-shirts for speakers (1 each) and possible speaker<br />
stipend.<br />
I was at <strong>th</strong>e 2003 spring Land Session GTS. The kitchen<br />
scene was too close to <strong>th</strong>e talks. The cook prep was a<br />
constant dist<strong>ra</strong>ction for presenters and attendees. The<br />
food was great, Mar<strong>th</strong>a was fun, but she should have<br />
staged her gig on <strong>th</strong>e sou<strong>th</strong> side of <strong>th</strong>e building, not<br />
outside <strong>th</strong>e main doors. This is my gripe. O<strong>th</strong>erwise, it<br />
was an interesting line up of talks. NPS guide testing<br />
should be scheduled (editor’s note: guide testing is<br />
available <strong>th</strong>roughout <strong>th</strong>e GTS weekend wi<strong>th</strong>out an<br />
appointment at Lees Ferry). I <strong>th</strong>ink <strong>th</strong>e Coconino<br />
County Heal<strong>th</strong> Department class (food handler’s) is a<br />
waste of $30. Well, at least a waste of $15.<br />
More people wi<strong>th</strong> interesting stories about G<strong>ra</strong>nd<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong>.<br />
Keep it up. Good <strong>jo</strong>b and speakers.<br />
I like it just fine.<br />
The ones I’ve been to have been terrific. Have <strong>th</strong>e Fall<br />
Meeting in Bluff again. It’s closer for me.<br />
I <strong>th</strong>ink its great.<br />
Make it more <strong>th</strong>ematic. This would help guides gain a<br />
more comprehensive understanding of a given subject.<br />
Haven’t been to one for a while, but dynamic speakers<br />
are most crucial.<br />
More big name speakers.<br />
Great as it is!<br />
Bring back <strong>th</strong>e tent! (just kidding).<br />
Have it near Flagstaff to avoid consuming large quantities<br />
of gasoline.<br />
None. Keep up <strong>th</strong>e good work.<br />
Themes are nice: history, biology, etc…<br />
Try to schedule a WFR course ei<strong>th</strong>er before or after <strong>th</strong>e<br />
GTS land session at a convenient location (Editor’s<br />
note: we always do – our first aid courses are usually<br />
just prior to <strong>th</strong>e GTS land session).<br />
Don’t try to put too much in 1.5 days.<br />
It’s great.<br />
Keep up <strong>th</strong>e good work!<br />
Mud wrestling between nor<strong>th</strong> side outfitters and sou<strong>th</strong><br />
side outfitters/owners<br />
page 40<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
Get more funding, hire someone to do <strong>th</strong>e <strong>jo</strong>b and pay<br />
<strong>th</strong>em well.<br />
None.<br />
Have it far<strong>th</strong>er nor<strong>th</strong>.<br />
Sometimes better wea<strong>th</strong>er.<br />
Keep up <strong>th</strong>e good work!<br />
More participation.<br />
I would like to see <strong>th</strong>e land session occur at a time when<br />
I could attend. I work for <strong>th</strong>e school system in Califo<strong>rn</strong>ia.<br />
This coming year <strong>th</strong>at would be anytime<br />
March 20-28 or April 8-12. Thanks.<br />
None, it’s great.<br />
None, just keep bringing/inviting <strong>th</strong>e “old timers”.<br />
Heated indoor area for talks.<br />
None, o<strong>th</strong>er <strong>th</strong>an trying to hold better to <strong>th</strong>e schedule. I<br />
missed parts because speakers <strong>ra</strong>n long and I had to<br />
leave.<br />
None (yet). Positive note – I <strong>th</strong>ink <strong>th</strong>e Hatch warehouse<br />
is a much better place <strong>th</strong>an Marble <strong>Canyon</strong>…<br />
more room.<br />
Have a union organizer speak. We have <strong>th</strong>e right to<br />
know <strong>th</strong>ings – <strong>th</strong>at’s all.<br />
“Workshops” on how to mobilize guides for improved<br />
employee benefits. Profit sharing/retirement etc.., and<br />
group heal<strong>th</strong> insu<strong>ra</strong>nce plans.<br />
Land sessions are informative and well organized.<br />
Dark beer as well as light!<br />
Unionize.<br />
Bob Webb talk on outwash floods from lava dams.<br />
Less self-glorification of boat people.<br />
Bo<strong>th</strong> sessions are great and informative – <strong>th</strong>anks!<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 41
Ma<strong>jo</strong>r Contributors<br />
July 1, 2002 to June 30, 2003<br />
The Board and Officers of gcrg want to sincerely <strong>th</strong>ank all<br />
of our members whose generous donations during <strong>th</strong>is<br />
past fiscal year (July 1, 2002 to June 30, 2003) have<br />
enabled us to continue our work. Space conside<strong>ra</strong>tions make it<br />
impossible for us to list all of you who contributed during <strong>th</strong>is<br />
period, much less all of you who have contributed in past years.<br />
All <strong>th</strong>ose names would probably fill an entire bqr! We have<br />
extended <strong>th</strong>e list to include contributors of $100–$499. This does<br />
not include <strong>th</strong>e innume<strong>ra</strong>ble five-year memberships.<br />
You will also notice new additions to our Foundation Support<br />
list. Building on <strong>th</strong>e momentum begun in Spring of 2002, many<br />
new funders came on board wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>eir support in <strong>th</strong>is past fiscal<br />
year. Our deepest g<strong>ra</strong>titude goes out to all of <strong>th</strong>e foundations listed<br />
below for <strong>th</strong>eir generous support of G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong> <strong>Guides</strong><br />
and our many important prog<strong>ra</strong>ms.<br />
Of course, we also wish to <strong>th</strong>ank all <strong>th</strong>ose who have donated<br />
time and energy to gcrg by volunteering to help around <strong>th</strong>e<br />
office, at events, etc. That goes for board members too—<strong>th</strong>ey<br />
volunteer countless hours of <strong>th</strong>eir time and energy. Thankfully,<br />
<strong>th</strong>e spirit of volunteerism is alive and well in <strong>th</strong>e river community.<br />
We couldn‚t manage wi<strong>th</strong>out all of you.<br />
And lastly, <strong>th</strong>anks to each and every one of our members for<br />
being part of <strong>th</strong>e gcrg family! It truly is a vital and diverse<br />
community grounded by <strong>th</strong>e common love of <strong>th</strong>e Colo<strong>ra</strong>do <strong>River</strong><br />
and <strong>th</strong>e desire for its continued protection and preservation.<br />
We apologize to anyone we may have inadvertently missed in<br />
<strong>th</strong>e lists below. Please let us know.<br />
Foundation Support<br />
Ru<strong>th</strong> H. Brown Foundation<br />
Ceres Foundation<br />
Chehalis Fund of <strong>th</strong>e Tides Foundation (on <strong>th</strong>e recommendation<br />
of Mr. Drummond Pike)<br />
Flagstaff Cultu<strong>ra</strong>l Partners<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> Conservation Fund<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> Monitoring & Research Center<br />
The Louise H. and David S. Ingalls Foundation<br />
Livingry Fund of <strong>th</strong>e Tides Foundation<br />
Norcross Wildlife Foundation<br />
Walton Family Foundation<br />
Memorial Contributions<br />
In memory of Kenton Grua<br />
In memory of David Kemp<br />
In memory of Chet Kosinski<br />
Patrons (guides)<br />
Dan Larsen<br />
Rudi Petschek<br />
Mark Thatcher<br />
page 42<br />
Patrons (Gene<strong>ra</strong>l)<br />
Michael Wehrle<br />
Benefactors (<strong>Guides</strong>)<br />
Steve Asadorian<br />
Patrick Conley<br />
Noel Eberz<br />
Fred Thevenin<br />
Benefactors (Gene<strong>ra</strong>l)<br />
Anonymous<br />
Evan Edgar<br />
Achim Gottwald<br />
Sandy Mailliard<br />
Gordon Shaw<br />
Terry Starr<br />
Gwynne Trivelpiece<br />
Life Members (<strong>Guides</strong>)<br />
Alistair Bleifuss<br />
Sharkey Co<strong>rn</strong>ell<br />
Jerry Cox<br />
Maury Domsky<br />
Gar Dubois<br />
Michael & Carol Sue Harris<br />
Bobby Jensen<br />
Johnny Janssen<br />
Jed Koller<br />
Jayne Lee<br />
John Markey<br />
Jim Mead<br />
Steve Munsell<br />
Ed Myers<br />
Jim & Eileen Porch<br />
Tim Quigley<br />
Orea Roussis<br />
Byron Sanderson<br />
Mary Shaffer<br />
Dennis Silva<br />
Val Thal-Slocum<br />
Teresa Yates Ma<strong>th</strong>eson<br />
Life Members (Gene<strong>ra</strong>l)<br />
Sam Baker<br />
Steve Black<br />
Mark B<strong>ra</strong>den<br />
Dan Brown<br />
Bob Burton<br />
Bill Dryden<br />
Todd Elliott<br />
Judy Elsley<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
Kent Frost<br />
F<strong>ra</strong>nk Gutmann<br />
Richard & Ca<strong>th</strong>y Hahn<br />
Eric Hebert<br />
Pamela Hyde<br />
Steve Jellinek<br />
Duane & Cosette Kelly<br />
Kelly Knopke<br />
Mario Kowalski<br />
Nicole Maier<br />
Barba<strong>ra</strong> & Pascal Niquille<br />
Mary O‚Tousa<br />
Michael Patton<br />
Mary Richards<br />
John Schneller<br />
Heidi Shattuck<br />
John Sicree<br />
Philip Smi<strong>th</strong><br />
Gary Snyder<br />
Marilyn Timmer<br />
Jim Warmbrod, Jr.<br />
Charles & Mary Zemach<br />
Contributors ($100–499)<br />
Anonymous<br />
Barba<strong>ra</strong> & Phil Albright<br />
Paul Anderson<br />
Bruce Andrews<br />
Tom A<strong>rn</strong>ot<br />
Elaine Baden<br />
F<strong>ra</strong>nk Bender<br />
Carrie Besnette<br />
John Blaustein<br />
Joel Blitstein<br />
Don Briggs<br />
Mike Brown<br />
Harriet Burgess<br />
Leo & Roberta Butzel<br />
Dan & Dianne Cassidy<br />
Jim Chriss<br />
Linda & Thomas Clark<br />
David & Nancy Clayton<br />
Pat & Owen Connell<br />
Jim Cu<strong>th</strong>bertson<br />
Chuck Davis<br />
Pat & Roger Essick<br />
James & Sa<strong>ra</strong> Estes<br />
Nancy Federspiel<br />
Marye, Mayo & Kristine Follett<br />
Edward Foss<br />
Carlos Gallinger<br />
Ca<strong>th</strong>y Gaskell<br />
Nancy Grua<br />
Robert Hallett<br />
Linda Hammett<br />
Paul Harris<br />
Ingolf Hermann<br />
Randy Holton<br />
David Inouye<br />
Jim Jacobs<br />
Steve Jellinek<br />
Ed Jodice<br />
RJ Johnson<br />
Lois Jotter Cutter<br />
Kate Jurow<br />
Jane & Robert Katz<br />
Donell Kelly<br />
Irene Kosinski<br />
Carolyn Langenkamp<br />
Dan Larsen<br />
John Linderman<br />
Wally Linstru<strong>th</strong><br />
William Lockwood<br />
Nicole Maier<br />
Kiyomi Masatani & Gary Yamaha<strong>ra</strong><br />
Pamela Ma<strong>th</strong>ues<br />
Janice McBride<br />
Tom Moody<br />
Marvin Nakashima<br />
Joanne Nissen<br />
Valerie Olson<br />
Jerry & Judy Overfelt<br />
Ray Perkins<br />
Wayne Peterson<br />
Gloria Pfeif<br />
Rick Piette<br />
Rob Pitago<strong>ra</strong><br />
Pat Poirier<br />
Jon & Nancy Porter<br />
Richard Quartaroli<br />
Walter Rist<br />
Daniel Rister<br />
Jack Schmidt<br />
Harry Schoening<br />
Be<strong>th</strong> & Gary Schwarzman<br />
Mary Shaffer<br />
Linda Sheppard<br />
Leslie Shor<br />
J. Lindley Smi<strong>th</strong>, Jr.<br />
Newell Squires<br />
Ron Stark<br />
Jan Taylor<br />
Walt & Nancy Taylor<br />
Ca<strong>th</strong>erine & Douglas Thayer<br />
Annie Thomas<br />
Robert & Deanna Tubbs<br />
Ellen Voorhees<br />
Gretchen & Daniel Walsh<br />
Michael Weaver<br />
Joseph Willhelm<br />
Yassi Yassemi<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 43
Heads-up on First Aid<br />
First aid class sign up sheets will be published in <strong>th</strong>e<br />
Fall issue of <strong>th</strong>e boatman’s quarterly review, but plan<br />
on <strong>th</strong>e following classes to be sponsored by gcrg<br />
and taught by Desert Mountain Medicine:<br />
• Wilde<strong>rn</strong>ess First Responder—March 18–26<br />
• Review (Recertification class)—April 2–4 (you<br />
qualify for <strong>th</strong>is course as long as your original certification<br />
has not been expired for more <strong>th</strong>an six mon<strong>th</strong>s<br />
prior to <strong>th</strong>e class)<br />
(Locations to be determined, but mark your calendars!)<br />
If you still need to take a Bridge class (to upg<strong>ra</strong>de<br />
from a wafa to a wfr), contact Shoshanna Jensen<br />
directly at (928) 607-1589.<br />
Finally—a wfr course designed for <strong>th</strong>ose folks who<br />
have 9–5 <strong>jo</strong>bs and live in Flagstaff, az. Desert Mountain<br />
Medicine will offer <strong>th</strong>e following 80-hour course to be<br />
held at <strong>th</strong>e nau Forestry Building.<br />
Dates: September 23–October 30, Tuesday & Thursday<br />
nights, 6–10 pm<br />
Plus weekends—9/27-28, 10/11 and 10/25–26 (all 8 a.m.<br />
to 5 p.m. for weekend dates)<br />
Cost: $450<br />
Contact: nau Outdoors (928) 523-3229<br />
Refresher Course sponsored by Desert Mountain<br />
Medicine to be held at <strong>th</strong>e NAU Forestry Building,<br />
Flagstaff, az.<br />
Date: February 20<strong>th</strong>, 3–9 p.m. and February 21st &<br />
22nd, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.<br />
Cost: $175<br />
Contact: nau Outdoors at (928) 523-3229<br />
Announcements<br />
Found<br />
Sterling silver b<strong>ra</strong>celet, distinctive wave patte<strong>rn</strong> design,<br />
found at Mile 174 above Red Slide at <strong>th</strong>e lunch spot.<br />
Contact <strong>th</strong>e gcrg office (928) 773-1075.<br />
Found<br />
Silver b<strong>ra</strong>celet wi<strong>th</strong> native designs: turtle, snake, bear,<br />
etc.… B<strong>ra</strong>celet has initials “ah”. Contact Wes Neal at<br />
Arizona <strong>River</strong> Runners (928) 527-0269.<br />
Building Momentum<br />
The financial rebound <strong>th</strong>at commenced in spring<br />
of 2002 has definitely continued into <strong>th</strong>is past<br />
fiscal year as evidenced by <strong>th</strong>ese financial reports.<br />
Thankfully, memberships and contributions remain<br />
stable. G<strong>ra</strong>nt income, especially for <strong>th</strong>e boatman’s quarterly<br />
review, increased significantly over <strong>th</strong>e previous<br />
year. This boost in foundation support has helped alleviate<br />
(for <strong>th</strong>e moment) <strong>th</strong>e st<strong>ra</strong>in on our ope<strong>ra</strong>ting<br />
budget. But lest we rest on our laurels, <strong>th</strong>e g<strong>ra</strong>nts game is<br />
always a fickle one. Our financial heal<strong>th</strong> is a work in<br />
progress and our financial reserves must be built up<br />
fur<strong>th</strong>er, especially since <strong>th</strong>e U.S. economy remains poor.<br />
Our balance sheet is looking better <strong>th</strong>an it ever has, yet<br />
our savings account still has a long way to go before it<br />
reaches one hundred percent of our total annual budget<br />
for protection over <strong>th</strong>e long term.<br />
We are most certainly deeply g<strong>ra</strong>tified <strong>th</strong>at <strong>th</strong>e<br />
rebound has carried us <strong>th</strong>is far and are optimistic about<br />
<strong>th</strong>e future. However, it takes all of us working toge<strong>th</strong>er to<br />
keep <strong>th</strong>ings on a stable footing over time. Here are a few<br />
simple <strong>th</strong>ings you can do <strong>th</strong>at really make a difference:<br />
1. Pay your dues on time—paying on time helps us save<br />
time and money. Membership dues are our single<br />
largest source of income. Keeping you as a member<br />
makes us strong!<br />
2. Urge o<strong>th</strong>ers to <strong>jo</strong>in—we’re sure each of you knows<br />
someone who may not be a member, but might be<br />
interested. Talk us up!<br />
3. Volunteer time in <strong>th</strong>e gcrg office—we have stacks<br />
of filing and despe<strong>ra</strong>tely need some help to keep it<br />
under control.<br />
4. Keep <strong>th</strong>ose tax-deductible contributions coming—<br />
large or small, gene<strong>ra</strong>l contributions give us <strong>th</strong>e flexibility<br />
to funnel money to where we need it most. We<br />
always need help, so send your support our way!<br />
5. United Way contributions—many of you work for<br />
companies <strong>th</strong>at contribute to <strong>th</strong>e United Way. Any<br />
donation made to United Way and gcrg is tax<br />
deductible. Simply request <strong>th</strong>at a certain amount be<br />
donated to gcrg each mon<strong>th</strong>. For example, if enough<br />
of you choose $10 or $20 a mon<strong>th</strong> out of your<br />
paycheck, you won’t miss <strong>th</strong>e money, but it could add<br />
up significantly for us!<br />
6. Company-matching contributions prog<strong>ra</strong>ms—again,<br />
<strong>th</strong>ink of gcrg!<br />
Your support and belief in our organization mean <strong>th</strong>e<br />
world to us. Let’s build on <strong>th</strong>at momentum!<br />
Lynn Hamilton<br />
Executive Director<br />
page 44<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong> <strong>Guides</strong>, Inc.<br />
Profit and Loss Statement<br />
Fiscal Year—July 1, 2002 <strong>th</strong>rough June 30, 2003<br />
Income<br />
Membership income $ 47,701.77<br />
Gene<strong>ra</strong>l contributions* 28,303.50<br />
Bqr g<strong>ra</strong>nts 30,500.00<br />
Gts income & g<strong>ra</strong>nts 16,850.00<br />
First aid class income 15,512.50<br />
Adopt-a-Beach g<strong>ra</strong>nts/contributions 15,158.00<br />
Amwg/twg g<strong>ra</strong>nts 10,500.00<br />
Sales (t-shirts, hats, etc.) 5,468.00<br />
Plant field guide g<strong>ra</strong>nts 5,460.00<br />
Gts overhead reimbursement 769.51<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nt administ<strong>ra</strong>tion income 600.00<br />
Interest income 549.97<br />
Total Income $ 177,373.25<br />
Expense<br />
Bqr (production, printing, postage) $ 37,840.10<br />
Payroll expenses 37,241.50<br />
Gts expenses 16,320.13<br />
First aid class expenses 14,755.55<br />
Adopt-a-Beach 9,992.23<br />
Rent 7,200.00<br />
Amwg/twg 6,343.51<br />
Printing 5,722.67<br />
Plant field guide expenses 5,460.14<br />
Cost of sales 4,122.87<br />
Postage 2,824.66<br />
Meeting expense 2,535.96<br />
Office supplies 1,676.29<br />
Telephone 1,515.74<br />
Memorial expenses 1,254.46<br />
Utilities 1,062.20<br />
CRMP expenses 1,050.12<br />
Depreciation expense 899.00<br />
O<strong>th</strong>er (bank charges, etc.) 474.61<br />
Inte<strong>rn</strong>et 434.70<br />
Insu<strong>ra</strong>nce 370.98<br />
Repairs 365.00<br />
Total Expense $ 159,462.42<br />
Note: Profit & Loss Statement does not reflect<br />
hundreds of hours of donated services for bqr proofreading,<br />
irs annual report, <strong>Guides</strong> T<strong>ra</strong>ining<br />
Seminar, website maintenance, clerical support,<br />
donated equipment and more...<br />
G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> <strong>River</strong> <strong>Guides</strong> Inc.<br />
Balance Sheet as of June 30, 2003<br />
Assets<br />
Cash in checking/savings $ 68,364.46<br />
Postage & security deposits 2,272.95<br />
Total Current Assets $ 70,637.41<br />
Fixed Assets<br />
Computer & office equipment $ 38,640.80<br />
Less depreciation 36,696.19<br />
Net Fixed Assets $ 1,944.61<br />
Liabilities & Equity<br />
Payroll liabilities $ 1,370.61<br />
Restricted funds 1,863.83<br />
Equity 69,347.58<br />
Total Liabilities & Equity $ 72,582.02<br />
Geme<strong>ra</strong>l Members 1,032<br />
Guide Members 738<br />
Bqr Circulation 1,827<br />
Net Income $ 17,910.83<br />
* Includes memorial contributions, year-end<br />
fund<strong>ra</strong>ising, and gene<strong>ra</strong>l (un-restricted) contributions.<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 45
Businesses Offering Support<br />
Thanks to <strong>th</strong>e businesses <strong>th</strong>at like to show <strong>th</strong>eir support for gcrg by offering varying discounts to members.<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> Supply—Boating gear 928/779-0624<br />
The Summit—Boating equipment 928/774-0724<br />
Chums—Chums 800/323-3707<br />
Mountain Sports 928/779-5156<br />
Aspen Sports—Outdoor gear 928/779-1935<br />
Teva 928/779-5938<br />
Sunrise Lea<strong>th</strong>er—Birkenstock sandals 800/999-2575<br />
<strong>River</strong> Rat Raft and Bike—Bikes and boats 916/966-6777<br />
Professional <strong>River</strong> Outfitters—Equip. rentals 928/779-1512<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> R.E.O.—<strong>River</strong> equipment rental 928/774-3377<br />
The Dory Connection—<strong>th</strong>edoryconnection@hotmail.com<br />
Winter Sun—Indian art & herbal medicine 928/774-2884<br />
Mountain Angels T<strong>ra</strong>ding Co.—<strong>River</strong> jewelry 800/808-9787<br />
Terri Merz, MFT—Counselling 702/892-0511<br />
Dr. Jim Marzolf, DDS—Dentist 928/779-2393<br />
Snook’s Chirop<strong>ra</strong>ctic 928/779-4344<br />
F<strong>ra</strong>n Sarena, NCMT—Body work 928/773-1072<br />
Five Quail Books—<strong>Canyon</strong> and <strong>River</strong> books 928/776-9955<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> Books—<strong>Canyon</strong> and <strong>River</strong> books 928/779-0105<br />
<strong>River</strong> Gardens Rare Books—First editions 435/648-2688<br />
Patrick Conley—Realtor 928/779-4596<br />
Design and Sales Publishing Company 520/774-2147<br />
<strong>River</strong> Art & Mud Gallery—<strong>River</strong> folk art 435/648-2688<br />
Fretwater Press—Holmstrom and Hyde books 928/774-8853<br />
Marble <strong>Canyon</strong> Lodge 928/355-2225<br />
Cliff Dwellers Lodge, AZ 928/355-2228<br />
Mary Ellen A<strong>rn</strong>dorfer, CPA—Taxes 928/525-2585<br />
Trebon & Fine—Atto<strong>rn</strong>eys at law 928/779-1713<br />
Laughing Bird Adventures—Sea kayak tours 503/621-1167<br />
Nor<strong>th</strong> Star Adventures—Alaska & Baja trips 800/258-8434<br />
Chimneys Sou<strong>th</strong>west—Chimney sweeping 801/644-5705<br />
Rescue Specialists—Rescue & 1st Aid 509/548-7875<br />
Wilde<strong>rn</strong>ess Medical Associates 888/945-3633<br />
Rubicon Adventures—Mobile cpr & 1st Aid 707/887-2452<br />
Vertical Relief Climbing Center 928/556-9909<br />
Randy Rohrig—Rocky Point Casitas rentals 928/522-9064<br />
Dr. Mark Falcon—Chirop<strong>ra</strong>ctor 928/779-2742<br />
Willow Creek Books—Coffee & Outdoor gear 435/644-8884<br />
KC Publications—Books on National Parks 800/626-9673<br />
Roberta Motter, CPA 928/774-8078<br />
Flagstaff Native Plant & Seed 928/773-9406<br />
High Desert Boatworks—Dories & Repairs 970/259-5595<br />
Hell’s Backbone Grill—Restau<strong>ra</strong>nt & catering 435/335-7464<br />
Boulder Mountain Lodge 800/556-3446<br />
Marble <strong>Canyon</strong> Metal Works 928/355-2253<br />
Cañonita Dories—Dory kits, hulls, oars, etc. 970/259-0809<br />
Tele Choice—Phone <strong>ra</strong>tes 877/548-3413<br />
Kristen Tinning, NCMT—Rolfing & massage 928/525-3958<br />
Inner Gorge T<strong>ra</strong>il <strong>Guides</strong>—Backpacking 877/787-4453<br />
Sam Walton—Rare Ear<strong>th</strong> Images, screen savers 928/214-0687<br />
Plateau Resto<strong>ra</strong>tion/Conservation Adventures 435/259-7733<br />
EPF Classic & European Motorcycles 928/778-7910<br />
Asolo Productions—Film and Video Productions 801/705-7033<br />
Funhog Press—AZ Hiking <strong>Guides</strong> 928/779-9788<br />
Man of Rubber, Inc. 800/437-9224<br />
Capitol Hill Neighborhood Acupuncture 206/323-3277<br />
CC Lockwood—Photog<strong>ra</strong>phy books 225/769-4766<br />
<strong>Canyon</strong> Arts—<strong>Canyon</strong> art by David Haskell 928/567-9873<br />
Spring 2004 GTS<br />
Spring <strong>Guides</strong> T<strong>ra</strong>ining Seminar dates are<br />
tentatively set as March 27–28, 2004, so mark<br />
your calendars! We’ll have more information in<br />
<strong>th</strong>e next issue of <strong>th</strong>e bqr.<br />
page 46<br />
g<strong>ra</strong>nd canyon river guides
Dugald Bremner<br />
Care To Join Us<br />
If you’re not a member yet and would like to be, or if your membership has lapsed, get wi<strong>th</strong> <strong>th</strong>e prog<strong>ra</strong>m! Your<br />
membership dues help fund many of <strong>th</strong>e wor<strong>th</strong>while projects we are pursuing. And you get <strong>th</strong>is fine <strong>jo</strong>u<strong>rn</strong>al to<br />
boot. Do it today. We are a 501(c)(3) tax deductible non-profit organization, so send lots of money!<br />
Gene<strong>ra</strong>l Member<br />
Must love <strong>th</strong>e G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong><br />
Been on a trip______________________________<br />
Wi<strong>th</strong> whom________________________________<br />
Guide Member<br />
Must have worked in <strong>th</strong>e <strong>River</strong> Industry<br />
Company__________________________________<br />
Year Began_________________________________<br />
Number of trips_____________________________<br />
Name______________________________________<br />
Address____________________________________<br />
City_____________________ State___ Zip_______<br />
Phone_____________________________________<br />
$30 1-year membership<br />
$125 5-year membership<br />
$277 Life membership (A buck a mile)<br />
$500 Benefactor*<br />
$1000 Patron (A g<strong>ra</strong>nd, get it)*<br />
*benefactors and patrons get a life membership, a silver<br />
split twig figurine pendant, and our undying g<strong>ra</strong>titude.<br />
$100 Adopt your very own Beach:_________________<br />
$______donation, for all <strong>th</strong>e stuff you do.<br />
$24 Henley long sleeved shirt Size____Color____<br />
$16 Short sleeved T-shirt Size____Color____<br />
$18 Long sleeved T-shirt Size____Color____<br />
$12 Baseball Cap<br />
$10 Kent Frost Poster (Dugald Bremner photo)<br />
$13 Paul Winter CD<br />
$17 Lava Falls / Upset posters (circle one or bo<strong>th</strong>)<br />
Total enclosed _________________<br />
boatman’s quarterly review page 47
Snow Cap Celeb<strong>ra</strong>tes 50 Years<br />
The Snow Cap Drive<br />
In, an icon in<br />
Seligman, Arizona,<br />
celeb<strong>ra</strong>ted its 50<strong>th</strong> year<br />
anniversary in July. The<br />
Snow Cap is well know to<br />
most G<strong>ra</strong>nd <strong>Canyon</strong> river<br />
runners who take-out at<br />
Diamond Creek. Owner<br />
Juan Delgadillo and his<br />
family are known for<br />
playing <strong>jo</strong>kes on unsuspecting<br />
customers. Who<br />
hasn’t fallen for <strong>th</strong>e squirt<br />
of fake mustard or chuckled<br />
when offered slightly-used<br />
napkins and st<strong>ra</strong>ws.<br />
Cong<strong>ra</strong>tulations go out<br />
to <strong>th</strong>e Delgadillos from<br />
GCRG. May <strong>th</strong>ey serve<br />
Dead Chicken for many<br />
years to come!<br />
So and so, Juan and Delgadillo, waiting for <strong>th</strong>e<br />
next unsuspecting customer to come <strong>th</strong>rough <strong>th</strong>eir<br />
door.<br />
Thanks to all you poets, photog<strong>ra</strong>phers, writers, artists, and to all of you who send us stuff. Don’t ever stop.<br />
Special <strong>th</strong>anks to <strong>th</strong>e Ru<strong>th</strong> H. Brown Foundation, Teva, Chehalis Fund of <strong>th</strong>e Tides Foundation,<br />
Norcross Wildlife Foundation, The Louise H. and David S. Ingalls Foundation, <strong>th</strong>e Walton Family Foundation and<br />
innume<strong>ra</strong>ble gcrg members for <strong>th</strong>eir generous and much appreciated support of <strong>th</strong>is publication.<br />
Box 1934<br />
Flagstaff, AZ 86002<br />
ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED<br />
NON-PROFIT<br />
ORGANIZATION<br />
U.S. POSTAGE<br />
PAID<br />
FLAGSTAFF, AZ<br />
PERMIT NO. 10