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How Two original ouTdoor Brands are sTaying relevanT Today<br />

Burlington’s Best<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong> <strong>Store</strong><br />

PRSRT STD<br />

US POSTAGE<br />

PAID<br />

ITHACA, NY<br />

PERMIT # 191<br />

ouTdoorinsighTMag.coM Vermonsters!<br />

A FormulA4 mediA PublicAtion • JulY 2011<br />

trends, PersPective & AnAlYsis<br />

OGE Co-owners<br />

Marc Sherman and<br />

Mike Donohue<br />

VF-Timberland: What It<br />

Means for Specialty<br />

Pet Products, Packs,<br />

Socks, Trail Shoes<br />

Knives and Much More!<br />

TM


WOOLRICH AD<br />

C2


TM<br />

OutdOOr InsIght<br />

outdoorinsightmag.com<br />

Editor in Chief<br />

mark sullivan<br />

msullivan@formula4media.com<br />

646-319-7878<br />

Managing Editor<br />

lou dzierzak<br />

ldzierzak@formula4media.com<br />

612-618-2780<br />

Editor at Large<br />

cara Griffin<br />

Art Director<br />

Francis Klaess<br />

Associate Art Director<br />

mary mcGann<br />

Contributing Editors<br />

mike Kennedy<br />

nancy ruhling<br />

tim sitek<br />

bob seligman<br />

Publisher<br />

Jeff nott<br />

jnott@formula4media.com<br />

516-305-4711<br />

Advertising<br />

beth Gordon<br />

bgordon@formula4media.com<br />

949-293-1378<br />

Jeff Gruenhut<br />

jgruenhut@formula4media.com<br />

404-467-9980<br />

troy leonard<br />

tleonard@formula4media.com<br />

352-624-1561<br />

sam selvaggio<br />

sselvaggio@formula4media.com<br />

212-398-5021<br />

Jess tendrick<br />

jtendrick@formula4media.com<br />

201-236-6324<br />

Production<br />

michael Jacobsen<br />

201-396-7005<br />

mjacobsen@formula4media.com<br />

Business Manager<br />

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mrukhvarger@formula4media.com<br />

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Formula4 Media, LLC. Publications<br />

sports insight<br />

outdoor insight<br />

Footwear insight<br />

team insight<br />

textile insight<br />

running insight<br />

soccer insight<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong> Insight TM<br />

is a trademark of<br />

Formula4media, llc. ©2011<br />

All rights reserved. the opinions<br />

expressed by authors and<br />

contributors to <strong>Outdoor</strong> Insight<br />

are not necessarily those of the<br />

editors or publishers. <strong>Outdoor</strong> Insight<br />

is not responsible for unsolicited<br />

manuscripts, photographs or artwork.<br />

Articles appearing in <strong>Outdoor</strong> Insight<br />

may not be reproduced in whole or in<br />

part without the express permission<br />

of the publisher. <strong>Outdoor</strong> Insight<br />

is published four times each year:<br />

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<strong>Outdoor</strong> Insight is a<br />

proud member of oiA<br />

04 <strong>Outdoor</strong> Eye<br />

VF Corp buys Timberland; Decker to cease distributing Simple Shoes.<br />

08 Pet Products<br />

Man’s best friend deserves technical – and fun – equipment, too.<br />

10 BackPack Trends<br />

Vendors know that one size doesn’t fit all, so they are filling the need at retail.<br />

14 Knives<br />

A Sharp Sale. Emotional connections to knives create long-term demand.<br />

16 Hosiery<br />

Socks do sell, but brand loyalty is being challenged by new players.<br />

18 Footwear<br />

The Trail Evolves. Minimalism pushes outdoor and running brands footwear design.<br />

24 Apparel<br />

Lifestyle Apparel. <strong>Outdoor</strong> clothes are now ready to wear seven days a week.<br />

28 Original <strong>Outdoor</strong> Brands<br />

Woolrich and Filson stay relevant after more than a century in business.<br />

30 Retail<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong> Gear Exchange finds success by following a different path.<br />

34 Trend Insight<br />

Stand-up paddleboarding is becoming a cool category for outdoor specialty.<br />

July 2011<br />

“The folding<br />

knife market<br />

will always be<br />

evolving and<br />

changing.<br />

The customer<br />

will always<br />

be asking<br />

what’s new.”<br />

Bill Raczkowski<br />

Fiskars <strong>Outdoor</strong><br />

Americas, Gerber<br />

July 2011 • outdoor insight • 3


outdoor eye<br />

VF-TIMBy...<br />

It’s not how big, but how the company can serve the smaller retailer<br />

VF Corp says it agreed to<br />

buy Timberland to “make a big<br />

brand bigger.” But its ultimate<br />

success in the outdoor market<br />

will depend on its ability to<br />

make the big brand relevant to<br />

specialty retailers.<br />

By most accounts, the deal<br />

is a win-win. It’s a win for VF,<br />

which adds another plum brand<br />

to its outdoor and action sports<br />

portfolio joining The North Face,<br />

Vans, Jansport, Eagle Creek,<br />

Reef and Kipling. And it’s a<br />

win for Timberland, a global<br />

power brand, but one that has<br />

struggled at times with market<br />

segmentation, sourcing and<br />

apparel — all things that its new<br />

daddy is real good at it.<br />

VF reported sales<br />

of $7.7 billion and<br />

announced plans<br />

to grow to $12 billion<br />

in five years.<br />

Despite racking up annual<br />

revenue of $1.4 billion in its<br />

last fiscal year, Timberland<br />

has had its problems. Its first<br />

quarter earnings were down 30<br />

percent from its previous year<br />

and despite its growth over the<br />

past two decades, the company<br />

has struggled with its identity<br />

at times. About 10 years ago,<br />

Timberland got red hot as an<br />

inner city brand, but company<br />

management had trouble<br />

managing the growth. It loved<br />

the sales bump, but seemed<br />

unclear on how to embrace its<br />

new urban customer. When<br />

the urban trend cooled down<br />

for the brand, it had nothing in<br />

the pipeline to replace it and as<br />

a result Timberland lost some<br />

credibility with independent<br />

shoe stores and outdoor<br />

specialty retailers. The North<br />

Face, on the other hand, has<br />

also had a decade of explosive<br />

growth. Its soft shell jackets<br />

have become the uniform for<br />

urban and suburban teens alike.<br />

But TNF managed the growth<br />

and expanded distribution very<br />

well. For example, in New York<br />

City, TNF was featured in a fullpage,<br />

four-color ad in The New<br />

York Times for Bloomingdales<br />

and highlighted in the windows<br />

of numerous boutiques on lower<br />

Broadway that appeal to college<br />

students at nearby New York<br />

University. Meanwhile, TNF<br />

has also put resources behind<br />

supporting the brand in core<br />

outdoor stores and running<br />

specialty retailers, developing<br />

product and marketing<br />

programs to support these<br />

channels. If VF can provide<br />

the same sort of channel<br />

segmentation for Timberland,<br />

the brand will certainly benefit.<br />

On the plus side, Timberland<br />

was an industry leader in<br />

green and corporate social<br />

responsibility. In 2008,<br />

Timberland released a long term<br />

four prong plan of Corporate<br />

Social Responsibility that<br />

focused on Service, Product,<br />

Energy and Workplaces. And<br />

even prior to that, the company<br />

led a number of service<br />

initiatives that focused on giving<br />

back to communities in which<br />

It’s a win for VF<br />

which adds another<br />

plum brand to its<br />

outdoor and action<br />

sports portfolio.<br />

it did business. The company<br />

also created a Path of Service<br />

Program that allowed for 40<br />

hours a year of paid leave so<br />

employees could do community<br />

service. Occasionally, those<br />

initiatives became flashpoints<br />

for retailers, employees and<br />

investors during the times when<br />

the company’s profitability<br />

sagged, but few have doubted<br />

Jeffrey Swartz’s sincerity. He<br />

personally is involved in many<br />

charitable endeavors and with<br />

an estimated $63 million take<br />

from the sale, he is in position<br />

to continue those efforts, or, as<br />

some have speculated launch a<br />

career in politics.<br />

Over the years, Timberland<br />

has also had trouble<br />

building continuity in senior<br />

management. Many top<br />

executives in the industry<br />

spent time at Timberland, but<br />

ended up leaving and moving<br />

on to other companies. New<br />

Balance is rife with former<br />

Timberland execs in key<br />

positions. Timberland COO<br />

Ken Pucker left the company<br />

several years ago and now<br />

works with investment groups<br />

that have stakes in MBT and<br />

other brands in the outdoor<br />

lifestyle space. Doug Clark,<br />

Timberland’s Chief Innovation<br />

Officer, left the company in<br />

2008 and formed New England<br />

Footwear, which then acquired<br />

the GoLite footwear license<br />

from Timberland. VF has proven<br />

it can develop talent internally<br />

and tends to promote from<br />

within. When Mike Ejeck, the<br />

president of The North Face,<br />

was promoted to head up<br />

VF’s outdoor brand coalition in<br />

2004, he was succeeded by<br />

Steve Rendle, who has since<br />

been promoted to a larger role.<br />

The North Face did not miss<br />

a beat during that transition.<br />

Timberland should benefit from<br />

the infusion of VF talent into its<br />

management ranks.<br />

Timberland acquired<br />

SmartWool in December<br />

of 2005 in what has been a<br />

well regarded move.<br />

SmartWool has been a leader<br />

in the “natural” fiber movement,<br />

expanding from socks into<br />

sweaters and other apparel<br />

categories, and SmartWool<br />

should benefit greatly from<br />

the support of VF’s apparel<br />

expertise and sourcing clout.<br />

Timberland has struggled<br />

with its brand in the apparel<br />

category, and in 2007 licensed<br />

the name to PVH, the huge<br />

apparel conglomerate that<br />

produces sportswear under<br />

license from Calvin Klein,<br />

Donna Karan, Kenneth Cole<br />

and other brands. For its last<br />

fiscal year, VF reported sales<br />

of $7.7 billion and announced<br />

plans to grow to $12 billion in<br />

five years. With The Timberland<br />

acquisition, the company is<br />

already a third of the way there.<br />

VF has apparel expertise in<br />

everything from underwear to<br />

denim to outdoor performance<br />

apparel. They will no doubt<br />

apply that to Timberland’s<br />

apparel business quickly. l<br />

4 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


AD<br />

5


outdoor eye<br />

The<br />

Simple<br />

brand was<br />

launched<br />

in 1991<br />

Deckers To Cease Simple, Emphasize Sanuk<br />

Deckers <strong>Outdoor</strong> says it has made the strategic decision to cease distribution of its<br />

Simple Shoes brand. In a statement, Angel Martinez, president, CEO and chair of the<br />

Board of Directors, commented: “Simple Shoes was the first brand to prove it’s<br />

possible to make eco-conscious footwear, and we’re proud to have accomplished<br />

all that we have. Given that there is some degree of overlap between Simple and Sanuk<br />

consumers, and Sanuk’s positive outlook and global appeal, we make this difficult decision<br />

knowing it is in the best interests of the brands, the company and its shareholders.” The<br />

move will take effect December 31, 2011. l<br />

Princeton<br />

Tec products<br />

are made in<br />

the USA<br />

Princeton Tec Introduces Customization Program<br />

Product customization that caters to consumers’ desire for unique and personalized<br />

products has achieved a certain status in the sewn goods world. Manufacturers such<br />

as Nike, Vans, Keds, Timbuk2 and Rickshaw have successfully tapped into consumer<br />

demand for originality. Meanwhile, the customization trend has largely remained<br />

unexplored for more technical hard goods.<br />

Princeton Tec has introduced The Spectrum, a consumer-direct customization<br />

platform providing hundreds of design options for their Fuel and Remix headlamps.<br />

The first program of its kind in the outdoor lighting industry, Princeton Tec’s new<br />

customization platform will give consumers creative control to self-select and<br />

design their headlamps by mixing and matching from ten body colors, four<br />

button colors and two strap options — providing hundreds of options.<br />

Once configured, the headlamps will be assembled in Princeton Tec’s domestic<br />

production facility. There are no minimum quantities required so consumers can order<br />

a single customized headlamp to fit their specific needs and applications.<br />

The consumer customization site is planned to go live September 1, 2011 with beta<br />

testing starting in June and continuing throughout the summer. l<br />

textile report<br />

GE Wins<br />

Contract WIth<br />

Italian Military<br />

Manufacturers<br />

GE Energy has won<br />

a contract to supply<br />

PTFE membrane to<br />

Italian military garment<br />

manufacturers.<br />

GE’s waterproof/<br />

breathable membrane,<br />

known as eVent<br />

protective membrane,<br />

has been selected by<br />

Lovers Srl and Tessitura<br />

Majocchi Srl as the<br />

preferred waterproof/<br />

breathable supplier for<br />

the Italian Army.<br />

Lovers has been<br />

awarded the contract<br />

to supply waterproof/<br />

breathable camouflage<br />

jackets and pants,<br />

and a windproof vest<br />

to the Italian Army<br />

for the fourth year in<br />

a row. The company<br />

has supplied 210,000<br />

sets to the army and<br />

will deliver 57,600 sets<br />

as part of the latest<br />

contract. Majocchi has<br />

been selected as the<br />

lamination provider as<br />

part of the contract.<br />

GE will supply PTFE<br />

membrane to Majocchi.<br />

Together, the group of<br />

companies will work<br />

to produce one of<br />

the most waterproof/<br />

breathable outfits a<br />

soldier can wear.<br />

“We’re pleased to<br />

use our expertise to<br />

create dependable,<br />

protective garments<br />

for the Italian Army<br />

supporting Lovers and<br />

Majocchi,” said Glenn<br />

Crowther, product line<br />

leader for performance<br />

fabrics at GE.<br />

GE also supplies<br />

PTFE membrane to<br />

companies supplying<br />

the United States<br />

military and the<br />

People’s Republic of<br />

Korea military.<br />

PrimaLoft<br />

Reinforces<br />

European<br />

Sales Network<br />

PrimaLoft has hired<br />

Bartosz Lassak as<br />

sales agent for the<br />

Eastern European<br />

market. Lassak will<br />

head up sales and<br />

marketing, managing<br />

all represented<br />

PrimaLoft brands,<br />

as well as dealers<br />

in Eastern Europe<br />

and Russia.<br />

Lassak served as a<br />

sales representative<br />

for W.L. Gore in<br />

Eastern Europe since<br />

2001. In June 2002,<br />

Lassak founded<br />

his own successful<br />

sales and marketing<br />

agency, representing<br />

Nokia and a number<br />

of other notable<br />

brands and clients.<br />

Hyosung<br />

Introduces<br />

Key Directions<br />

for 2013<br />

Hyosung, one of<br />

the world’s largest<br />

producers of nylon,<br />

polyester, and<br />

spandex fibers, will<br />

co-exhibit with mill<br />

partners such as<br />

Samsung trading,<br />

Mikwang, Pucheon,<br />

Paka and Ifits to<br />

feature trend right,<br />

performance fabrics<br />

for backpacks,<br />

outerwear, and<br />

active apparel. The<br />

key directions going<br />

forward for Spring<br />

2013, are endurance,<br />

fast track, unity and<br />

motion. Hyosung<br />

also will introduce<br />

Mipan AquaX for<br />

cool touch, moisture<br />

management, and UV<br />

protection and wind/<br />

water resistance in<br />

wovens. l<br />

6 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


Polartec Announces 2011<br />

North American APEX Award Winners<br />

Polartec, the developer, manufacturer and marketer of<br />

Polartec performance fabrics, announced the North American<br />

APEX Award winners for 2011. This award is presented<br />

to select Polartec-based garments that will be available to<br />

consumers in the fall of 2011. A panel of judges selected<br />

the winners based on the style, function and fit of the<br />

garments as well as innovative and appropriate uses of<br />

Polartec fabrics in the designs. The judges selected 13<br />

North American APEX winners. In addition to a Tiffany crystal<br />

award the manufacturers can participate in a custom hangtag<br />

program promoting the winning garments at the consumer<br />

level. Polartec also provides additional marketing support<br />

through product placement with media and events. l<br />

Winners include:<br />

Patagonia Northwall Jacket and Pants<br />

BARE SB System Midlayer<br />

Cabela’s Thermal Zone<br />

Special Op Forces Protective Combat Uniform<br />

Westcomb Apoc<br />

Marmot Zion<br />

Athleta Tagalong<br />

Orvis Targhee Full Zip Fleece<br />

Dragonfur Polartec Power Dry FR Hi-Viz Shirt<br />

Tyndale Polartec Baselayer Thermal Top & Bottom<br />

Big Bill Polartec Power Shield FR Jacket<br />

The North Face Jammu Jacket<br />

LL Bean Bean’s Insulated Fleece Jacket<br />

SEA EVIL AD<br />

7<br />

Marmot men’s<br />

Zion Jacket<br />

designed by<br />

Aubrey Vaughan<br />

MSRP: $375<br />

Tagalong<br />

designed by<br />

Amy McCusker<br />

MSRP: $79


Pet Products<br />

Dog<br />

products<br />

continue to<br />

sell well at<br />

outdoor<br />

specialty<br />

Man’s Best Friend<br />

Today’s campers and hikers may have names like Scamp, Scout<br />

and Benji. These four-legged canine adventurers offer outdoor<br />

specialty retailers opportunities for incremental sales even in<br />

a flat economy. Americans certainly love their pets. Overall<br />

sales of pet related products have reached $50 billion in the<br />

United States.<br />

“That number surprises a lot of people. It is an area that many outdoor<br />

channels have not capitalized on,” explains Lanette Fidrych, owner of Cycle<br />

Dog. “It is often an afterthought, but given the size of the market, it is a huge<br />

opportunity for outdoor retailers. The retailers that do focus on it usually<br />

have owners or buyers who are pet people, and they do quite well.”<br />

While the majority of that $50 billion in sales comes from products outside<br />

of the recreation-related items, brands have taken notice of the opportunity.<br />

“The pet industry as whole is getting more competitive, but there are still only<br />

a handful of companies that really specialize in outdoor or technical gear for<br />

dogs that join their people on hiking and camping expeditions,” says Kristen<br />

Smith, Planet Dog’s brand ambassador.<br />

Susan Strible, director of marketing, Ruffwear reports the brand’s<br />

outdoor specialty partners are expanding their selection of the brand’s<br />

products. Even a slow economy hasn’t blunted interest in dog products.<br />

“The pet industry is relatively bullet proof. The industry as a whole is<br />

definitely growing. We find that the more you have to offer, the more the<br />

store owners will order,” says Jill Nazimek, owner of Katie’s Bumpers.<br />

“The outdoor industry has finally taken notice of their customers dogs.<br />

There are dog friendly outdoor stores everywhere.”<br />

D-Fa’s Angela Hook comments,” Successful retailers commit to the category<br />

and work to sell through the idea and the product. Those who are less<br />

successful are ones that don’t support their stock with point-of-sale or<br />

training and aren’t using their knowledge of their existing customers to drive<br />

sales. In essence the pet category is no different to any other in outdoor. It is<br />

not a “Field of Dreams” (i.e., stock it and they will come), but when added to<br />

the sales line it can make a difference to the bottom line.<br />

Impulse or Planned Purchase?<br />

Dog products range from organic snacks, brightly colored toys, collars and<br />

leashes to technical packs with as much attention to detail as the packs the<br />

dog’s owner carries. Pet owners will make spur of the moment purchases as<br />

well as compare feature sets across brands.<br />

At Ruffwear, Strible reports an uptick in sales of collars and leashes.<br />

”People like to refresh colors and designs and they are low price points. We<br />

are seeing a lot more sales in those areas.”<br />

Toys are also selling well. “Once you find a food that your pet likes,<br />

you stick to it. But toys are different. We all want new toys. So, if there is<br />

something new, consumers have a tendency to try the ‘new thing’ if it suits<br />

their needs,” says Nazimek. “We try to bring out new toys so our customers<br />

stay with our brand and buy our new toys.”<br />

Brand managers note that over time even lower-priced products garner<br />

scrutiny. “When it comes to smaller items, definitely impulse buying is there,”<br />

says Hook. “And to a certain extent even the bigger items are a little impulse<br />

at first. Maybe that is because it’s still unexpected and so there is a moment<br />

of impulse. However, people are quite discerning when it comes to choosing<br />

specific products to do the right job for their dog.”<br />

Technical gear like dog panniers, booties and flotation receive more<br />

attention and product comparison. “<strong>Outdoor</strong> gear products tend to be<br />

considered purchases. They know their lifestyle and seek out items that allow<br />

their pet to join their outdoor adventures,” says Smith.<br />

Supporting Retailers<br />

Like most outdoor product categories, merchandising plays a critical<br />

role in attracting consumer interest and sales. Ruffwear offers a branded<br />

freestanding display unit for retailers. The modular design can be used to<br />

create a store within a store.<br />

Planet Dog has introduced a new tabletop display that helps retailers<br />

merchandise a variety of Orbee-Tuff products. The display won the Best in<br />

Show Point of Purchase Display at the 2011 Global Pet Expo in Orlando, FL. l<br />

Left to right: Planet Dog Orbee, Ruffwear Beacon, Planet Dog Woodchuck, Ruffwear Sqwash.<br />

8 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


CARPE<br />

TRENDEM<br />

TRENDINSIGHT<br />

iNsighT AND ANAlysis oN CoNsuMER TRENDs iN ouTDooR PuRChAsEs<br />

Friday, August 5, 2011 / 7:15 AM – 9:00 AM<br />

Marriott Salt Lake City Downtown, Deer Valley Salon<br />

Speaker: Julia Day, Leisure Trends Group<br />

Moderator: Lou Dzierzak, Managing Editor, <strong>Outdoor</strong> Insight<br />

Knowing who is coming into your store and what is driving them there is key to meeting their needs and ultimately getting<br />

them to buy. Perfectly timed for the start of Day 2 of the OR Summer Market, <strong>Outdoor</strong> Insight gives attendees a birds-eye view<br />

of the latest consumer shopping trends of the outdoor consumer. Presented by Julia Day of the Leisure Trends Group, with data<br />

gleaned from their point-of-sale data combined with a quarterly poll of 1,000 American adults aged 16 and over, attendees<br />

will hear about current trends in outdoor apparel, footwear and accessories to more effectively shop the Summer Market.<br />

Light breakfast served. Seating is limited. Retailers and manufacturers welcome.<br />

Please RsVP to jnott@formula4media.com<br />

outdoorinsightmag.com


ackpacks<br />

One Size Doesn’t Fit All<br />

outdoor enthusiasts are clearly gear junkies, always on the<br />

hunt for the next best new piece of equipment to take on<br />

their next adventure. Central to this accumulation of stuff is<br />

a backpack to carry everything in.<br />

As consumer’s preferences swing back and forth between<br />

tightly focused application specific packs to multi-purpose<br />

one-size-fits all models backpack brands are expanding their product lines<br />

to accommodate both interests.<br />

“We have a lot of application or use-specific packs and that part of our<br />

line has grown. But the attractiveness of a ‘quiver of one’ style pack is very<br />

relevant,” says Gareth Martins director of marketing for Osprey packs.<br />

“Osprey’s customers are looking for both styles.”<br />

John Sears, Gregory’s director of new product development says,<br />

“Consumers are certainly looking for more versatile packs. They are looking<br />

for innovative features and value.”<br />

Black Diamond’s customer is still purchasing packs specific to the end<br />

use. “Most of the people we are selling to have at least a summer and<br />

winter pack. If they are into backpacking that’s an additional pack. Maybe<br />

a hydration backpack too,” reports Nathan Kuder, softgoods category<br />

director, Black Diamond Equipment. “Like shoes and helmets, they tend to<br />

buy packs for specific seasonal use.”<br />

With a proliferation of brands and models, backpack manufacturers<br />

are taking care to differentiate themselves in the eyes of consumers and<br />

deuter will promote the<br />

new 2012 Aircontact packs<br />

with a free gift with<br />

purchase promotion.<br />

this savant is designed for overnight<br />

trips and trekking, offering a<br />

full, traditional feature set without<br />

excess clutter.<br />

Backpack<br />

designs<br />

evolve to<br />

match user<br />

preferences<br />

specialty retailers.<br />

Suspension designs, ventilations details and construction materials are<br />

important elements that separate brands.<br />

“Granite Gear has never used an aluminum stay that is so common in other<br />

manufacturer’s multi-day pack. Most of our packs throughout the years have<br />

used a molded 3-dimensional frame sheet. The philosophy behind that allows<br />

the pack to follow the contours of your<br />

back so you don’t have pressure points,”<br />

explains Dave Johnson, sales manager at<br />

Consumers<br />

are looking<br />

for innovative<br />

features and<br />

value.”<br />

Granite Gear. “We’ve also been a pioneer<br />

in the use of materials. Extensive in-house<br />

testing of materials has given us an edge in<br />

picking materials that are very light but as<br />

durable as they can be. We are not a me-too<br />

company. We don’t change a product or<br />

introduce a new product unless we feel we<br />

John Sears, Gregory’s<br />

can introduce something that we feel is a<br />

significant innovation.”<br />

Well-known in European markets, Deuter is committed to raising its brand<br />

presence in North America. Keeping backpackers cool with ventilation<br />

technology is brand’s central value propositions.<br />

“Deuter has been building packs since 1898. We believe we are one the<br />

bigger players. We’ve earned our wings. Deuter has been building packs<br />

s s s<br />

DEuTER GREGORy ARC’TERyx<br />

the Kata series are<br />

designed for all-mountain<br />

versatility for climbing,<br />

trekking or travel.<br />

10 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


INTEGRITy<br />

11


ackpacks<br />

since 1898,” says Christian Mason, director of sales and marketing, Deuter<br />

USA. “We invented the ventilated back panel and offer users a value<br />

proposition of reducing perspiration by 25 percent.”<br />

Like all outdoor product categories, positive price/value equations<br />

attract consumers. <strong>Mountain</strong>smith follows this business approach. “If<br />

you were to split outdoor products into A, B and C level, we strive to<br />

bring A quality product to the market at a B level price. This results in a<br />

huge value to the customer and when we define value, it means delivering<br />

product that outperforms its price tag,” explains Jay Getzel, director of<br />

sales and marketing.<br />

“Product design is spawned out of<br />

three main research projects for us.<br />

First is sales representative and dealer<br />

feedback. Second competitive analysis<br />

that allows us to identify potential soft<br />

spots or holes in the market and third<br />

sales trends both internally and on an<br />

industry wide level make up the third<br />

component of the research involved in<br />

our development process.”<br />

Go Lite has carved a market niche<br />

s s s<br />

BLACK DIAmOND ARC’TERyx GO LITE<br />

the new black diamond women’sspecific<br />

onyx uses Active Frame<br />

technology and features the new<br />

ergoActiv XP suspension.<br />

There’s both<br />

specificity and<br />

generalization<br />

and I think you<br />

can have both.<br />

Dave Furman, Mammut USA<br />

by focusing on lightweight packs. Like Osprey, paying attention to<br />

environmental issues has also helped differentiate Go Lite. “We have<br />

always been about lightweight packs that are not overbuilt. The most<br />

significant evolution we have made in the last several years was using<br />

mostly sustainable materials in all our packs, “ notes sales director Kevin<br />

Volz. “The industry is evolving and finally catching up to us in terms of<br />

their focus on lightweight and sustainability.”<br />

With experienced gained from previous pack purchases, brand education<br />

the nozone series are<br />

mountain-focused packs that can<br />

be stripped of certain features<br />

for specific activities.<br />

Go lite is introducing the new<br />

literail At series. these packs<br />

have full adjustability and weigh<br />

well under four pounds.<br />

tools and retailer sales people backpackers have become more<br />

sophisticated in evaluating backpack suspensions and bag designs.<br />

“Consumers understand the technology. The onus is on us to describe<br />

and sell that to the consumer,” says Martins. “We believe that a good<br />

technical suspension that transfers the weight on to the hips and across<br />

the back and carries comfortably is far better than something that is so<br />

stripped down and light that it doesn’t carry well.”<br />

Sears adds, “Consumers are becoming more educated and discerning<br />

about what’s comfortable and what’s not. The extreme lightweight trend<br />

that we saw come and go happened because it is all about comfort. It takes<br />

the right amount of build in the suspension to give the consumer the ultra<br />

comfortable experience. Finding the balance between the weight of the<br />

bag and the suspension build is something consumers are getting more<br />

sophisticated about. Consumers are purchasing products that carry well.”<br />

One backpack or three?<br />

Weekend backpackers, ultra-distance thru-hikers and climbers all look for<br />

distinct features in the backpacks they use. <strong>Outdoor</strong> brands have offered<br />

broader selections to fit every consumer niche and application, but are<br />

consumers being overwhelmed with choices? Can’t one pack do it all?<br />

The North Face builds packs for a wide range of enthusiasts and<br />

applications. “We know that there isn’t a one-size-fit all pack solution<br />

for our customers, so I think where The North Face excels is with the<br />

sheer number of options we have available,” notes Scott McGuire The<br />

North Face director of equipment. “Since our packs are athlete tested<br />

and expedition proven, we have something for you whether you’re<br />

headed to the top of Mount Everest, running 100 miles of trail or heading<br />

out on a day hike.”<br />

At the other end of the spectrum, Dave Furman, Mammut USA’s hardgood<br />

12 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


expert, offers a commonly heard consumer appeal. “Why do I need five<br />

different packs for the things I want to do? I’d like to have two and do<br />

everything with those.” Furman responds to that question. “That opens<br />

up some room for people who want to generalize. There’s both specificity<br />

and generalization and I think you can have both at the same time.”<br />

Harder core enthusiasts are willing to pay for narrowly defined feature<br />

sets.” At the higher price points, activity-specific packs are really<br />

strong players. These include backcountry<br />

snow packs or trail running hydration<br />

packs,” explains Derick Noffsinger, Jansport<br />

technical outdoor designer.<br />

The lines between multi-purpose technical<br />

daypacks and backpacking packs are getting<br />

very blurred. “The challenge is making<br />

sure your product is targeted to the right<br />

customer so you aren’t putting on extra<br />

features that a backpacking person would<br />

want on a hiking pack where the customer<br />

doesn’t need them,” notes Kuder. “With any<br />

The industry<br />

has evolved<br />

over the last<br />

20 years.<br />

Jay Getzel<br />

<strong>Mountain</strong>smith<br />

movement in the market you still have to maintain the more traditional<br />

styles in the line because those were your bread and butter.”<br />

Another important influence on backpack design is the time enthusiasts<br />

are committing to their adventures. “I think the industry has evolved<br />

over the last 20 years,” says Jay Getzel, director of sales and marketing,<br />

<strong>Mountain</strong>smith. “Our windows of an industry once based on backpacking,<br />

has gone through transitions in its target demographic and key styles that<br />

had us into basecamping and family camping then into the done in a day<br />

mode and most recently almost to a ‘done in an hour’ mode.”<br />

One feature that has changed in recent seasons is the decline in average<br />

backpack volumes. “Our windows of playtime are shrinking as a culture<br />

and packs have followed this trend,” reports Getzel. “There is significantly<br />

less business being done in the 5-7000 c.i. range. I heard a stat that 65<br />

percent of all packs sold now are under 2500 c.i. When we redesigned<br />

our pack line two years ago, we certainly focused on the one to three and<br />

three to five day sizes more than the larger packs”<br />

Noffsinger agrees,” We have seen a drop in pack volumes due to these<br />

functionally specific bags and a move away from the larger, do-it-all packs.”<br />

In the last six or seven years there has been a shift downward in size.<br />

Pack manufacturers are shifting their model lines as the volume sizes have<br />

decreased. “The sweet spot in the multi-day backpack market used to be<br />

5000 c.i. or more,” says Johnson. “Now, we don’t even have a pack offered<br />

in that size range. Now the sweet spot is 3600-4000 ci.”<br />

While shorter time frames have significantly influenced backpack<br />

volumes, an interest in lighter weight gear and equipment has also played<br />

a role. “More and more you see folks who are less serious backpackers<br />

who are dialing in with lighter weight tents and equipment,” says Martins.<br />

A few years ago there was a trend toward ultra lightweight packs. “The<br />

lightweight market is not just people who are doing the thru hikes that are<br />

buying these packs. Hikers are also looking for the lightest pack to meet<br />

their needs,” reports Johnson.<br />

While embraced by some backpackers, others have taken a more<br />

moderate approach to shaving ounces. “A lot of people have tried going<br />

really lightweight and figured out this stuff doesn’t necessarily last as long<br />

and maybe I don’t want to be quite as anal-retentive about what I bring.<br />

People are realizing there’s a happy medium where most users fit in,”<br />

notes Furman. l


trends<br />

A Sharp Sale<br />

Emotional connections<br />

to knives create<br />

long-term demand<br />

Knives have been called one of man’s earliest tools. In the 21st<br />

century, sharp blades still have a strong emotional attraction<br />

for outdoor enthusiasts.<br />

“I don’t fully understand why knives are so emotionally<br />

connected to people but I absolutely adore that that’s<br />

the case. I love hearing the personal stories that tell me ‘I<br />

remember my first knife. It was a right of passage,’” says CJ Buck, CEO of<br />

Buck Knives. “There’s very much an emotional connection. That drives the<br />

thinking process. People shifting away from disposable product to product<br />

that’s capable of being passed down to another generation. Knives offer a<br />

basic dependability and are as useful now as they were was 40 years ago.<br />

There’s a sense of legacy involved.”<br />

Thomas Welk, national sales manager at Kershaw, believes the emotional<br />

connection plays a vital role in knife sales. “If you don’t have an emotional<br />

attachment, it’s difficult for someone to understand a knife purchase. It’s<br />

important to have the generational hand-down. There is something very<br />

personal and intimate about owning a knife,” he says.<br />

Knives definitely play a role across generations. “Your first camping outing<br />

with your dad, it’s in your glove compartment, it’s in your pocket, it takes<br />

you from your youth through your life experiences,” notes Dennis Piretra,<br />

Wenger’s director of marketing.<br />

Over time, campers have augmented knives with multitools. While<br />

becoming a practical addition to many campers gear lists, multitools don’t<br />

seem to have the same emotional apparel. “Knives are very emotional.<br />

People will buy a knife because it has an emotional appeal to it,” notes Bill<br />

Raczkowski, category manager, Fiskars <strong>Outdoor</strong> – Americas, Gerber. “A tool<br />

is a more utilitarian device. I have a need for a screwdriver, bottle opener or<br />

pliers. Tool purchaser needs a tool. Knives are definitely more specialized.<br />

They all do the exact same thing — cut, scrape and pry. Users want specifics,<br />

but they want the emotional appeal of a knife.”<br />

Stable Market<br />

Brand managers report knife sales remained flat or dipped slightly after<br />

the economy faltered but seem to have recovered. “The knife market<br />

definitely took a dip but we are seeing growth over the last six to eight<br />

months,” explains Piretra. “We feel that the last three or four years a knife<br />

purchase was relatively low on a consumer’s priority list.”<br />

At present, the knife industry is surprisingly healthy despite the economy.<br />

“Spyderco has recently experienced our best months of sales in the history<br />

of the company,” reports Joyce Laituri, marketing manager, Spyderco<br />

Knives.<br />

Renewed interest in outdoor activities like hiking and camping are bringing<br />

a broader group of people into the knife market. “They need daily life tools as<br />

Buck: The Buck Bantam Pocket Knife is a medium size,<br />

lightweight, mid-lockback knife with easy 1-handed opening.<br />

Benchmade: The 915 Triage is a dynamic triple utility tool<br />

that includes a knife, safety hook and glass breaker. The<br />

Triage uses highly corrosion resistant blade steel.<br />

they go on these adventures. They want to be self-reliant,” says Buck. “I think<br />

the market is growing again. With all the anxiety and chaos in the world there<br />

is a renewed interest in self-reliance. Having knives and multi-tools around is<br />

part of that perspective.”<br />

Cable shows like “Man vs. Wild” depicting difficult environments and<br />

survival situations have also contributed to knife sales. “We believe the market<br />

is growing with the advent of people like Bear Grylls being on television,”<br />

says Raczkowski. “People are interested in survival themes. They may never<br />

be in the wilderness survival situation, but they believe that yes with I knife I<br />

can survive the wilds.” Multitool brands are also benefitting from this appeal.<br />

“People want a little bit of everything because they are not sure what will come<br />

against. Women are getting more active outdoors and are recognizing a knife<br />

or tool is something they need to have in their kit,” notes Jason Carpenter,<br />

product manager, Leatherman Tool Group.<br />

Single Purpose vs. Multiple Applications<br />

For decades, outdoor enthusiasts have had a choice between folding and<br />

fixed blade knives. While both styles remain popular, opinions differ about<br />

which approach addresses consumer’s needs best.<br />

Twenty years ago everyone carried a pocket-folding knife. It was an everyday<br />

carry knife. Small and compact to bring out as needed,” recalls Raczkowski.<br />

“The folding knife market will always be evolving and changing. The customer<br />

will always be going into the outdoor retailer and be asking what’s new.”<br />

Since your grandfather’s knife, folding knives have evolved to include a wide<br />

range of blades and tools. “As a design team we will look at enthusiasts and<br />

determine which features are important to them,” reports Welk. “Some are<br />

looking for lighter weight or how they carry the knife. We’re trying to attract<br />

14 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


Gerber: The Metolius Pocket Folder is a thin,<br />

strong, every-day-carry knife crafted from<br />

stainless steel for good balance and strength.<br />

The Metolius Pocket Folder features a TacHide<br />

handle inlay for secure grip in all conditions.<br />

younger customer with technology features and colors showing knives as<br />

tools with features and designs that resonate with them. Interest in the<br />

old-timers and grandpa’s knives of yesterday are decreasing. Our focus has<br />

been on the younger user.”<br />

Knives have also evolved to address tightly focused and specific<br />

applications. Models for climbers, paddlers and campers offer feature<br />

sets tailored to those activities. Gerber’s Bear Grylls survival knife and<br />

Wenger’s Mike Horn-inspired Ranger Series and new Ueli Steck climbing<br />

knife are examples. These hybrids include blades and tools. “Bang for the<br />

buck is an overriding theme. The Ranger and Expedition models are like a<br />

Swiss Army Knife on steroids. Specialty knives like the Ueli Steck climbing<br />

knife are purpose built,” explains Piretra. “We see higher ticket knives<br />

doing very well and much better than we expected.”<br />

With so many options available, outdoor enthusiasts are now<br />

purchasing multiple knives. “The climbers seem to prefer very light,<br />

very small folders, paddlers gravitate more to fixed blades and general<br />

outdoor enthusiasts seem to carry mid-size models,” explains Laituri.<br />

“At <strong>Outdoor</strong> Retailer we see people who come by carrying a Spyderco<br />

knife and tell us they bought it for backpacking and end up carrying<br />

it everyday but have they fixed blade or micro-folder on their PFD or<br />

climbing harness. They are discovering the everyday usefulness of<br />

knives outside of sporting activities. People ask for one-hand open<br />

operation, lightweight, a long-lasting sharpened edge, and clip carry. It’s<br />

all about convenience and reliable high performance.”<br />

Lighter weights are also attracting buyers. “Consumers are gravitating<br />

towards lightweight knives and reducing carry weight without sacrificing<br />

functionality has been key for the consumer,” reports Mike Dolmage,<br />

director of product development at Buck Knives. “There is also a trend<br />

towards smaller lightweight fixed blades as well as lock back/mid lock<br />

folders. Both knives offer excellent functionality and safety benefits for<br />

the consumer.”<br />

Regardless of model or application, reliability is key. “There is a basic<br />

shift to a sense of foundational dependability. People are shying away from<br />

too much specialization. If you overspecialize you almost limit yourself,”<br />

reports Buck. Consumers are looking for general utility with multiple<br />

functionality. There are times when the fixed blade will be the best option,<br />

other times the less conspicuous folding knife will be more appropriate.<br />

Feature sets continue to evolve. There is a cautionary feeling that knives<br />

with multiple parts that can be lost are inherently less dependable. What’s<br />

the use if you lose the part? l


Hosiery<br />

Technical socks may not be the most glamorous product<br />

found at an outdoor retailer, but the category is experiencing<br />

the same competitive pressures, drive for innovation and<br />

consumer loyalty as backpacks and trail running shoes.<br />

“It’s definitely a competitive market. Everyone wants a<br />

bigger piece of the consumer’s dollar,” reports Fox River<br />

brand manager Jennifer Whitley. “With shoe and apparel companies<br />

jumping into the sock market there are a lot of choices for consumers<br />

out there.”<br />

Market leader SmartWool has seen competition increase. “When you<br />

look at the sock category today, compared to when we entered the<br />

category, it’s a completely differently ball game. Before SmartWool, socks<br />

were an afterthought,” says Amy Beck, director of SmartWool U.S. sales.<br />

“Now people actually go to the retailers and<br />

ask for us by name. Socks have become a<br />

critical part of the outdoor experience and<br />

rightly so. There isn’t much you can do<br />

outside if your feet aren’t comfortable.”<br />

A flood of new product offering is<br />

challenging legacy brands like Wigwam<br />

that boast more than a century of sock<br />

production. “The market has exploded.<br />

Every Tom, Dick and Harry wants to be<br />

in the sock biz,” says Natalie Stangl, field<br />

marketing manager at Wigwam. We make<br />

our own product in Sheboygan, WI, and<br />

Brand loyalty<br />

challenged by<br />

new category<br />

players<br />

1 1 2 3 4 5<br />

Socks<br />

Do Sell<br />

Every Tom,<br />

Dick and<br />

Harry wants<br />

to be in the<br />

sock biz.<br />

Natalie Stangl<br />

Wigwam<br />

therefore we are able to have better quality control and be very hands on.<br />

We’ve been manufacturing socks in the USA for 106 years.”<br />

New products are coming from sock-specific companies as well<br />

as footwear brands extending their product lines. The competitive<br />

atmosphere is hot.<br />

“Many shoe and apparel brands want to jump into this successful<br />

market. It’s good to remember that the best socks come from core sock<br />

brands with core expertise,” notes Mercedes Marchand, VP of design and<br />

merchandising at Goodhew.<br />

Innovations in cushioning, fit, color options and application specific<br />

models are contributing to growth and consumer’s willingness to try<br />

new brands. “<strong>Outdoor</strong> enthusiasts are always looking for the next best<br />

thing. What’s going to give them a better experience or performance,”<br />

says Whitley. “We do get feedback from<br />

consumers and retailers. There’s a push<br />

towards more color, technology and fit focus<br />

on socks.”<br />

Bruce Barrows, Lorpen’s North American<br />

sales manager comments,” We do see growth<br />

in the categories we are in. Retailers and<br />

consumers are looking for innovation. That<br />

drives interest in a fairly mundane category.”<br />

There is a growing demand for socks<br />

segmented by sport and season. “In running<br />

and everyday wear, people are getting more<br />

into the type of shoe they are looking for,”<br />

Being a<br />

sustainable<br />

business is<br />

simply the<br />

entry point.<br />

Mercedes Marchand<br />

Goodhew<br />

says Peter Duke, founder Point 6. “They are looking for a closer fit so when<br />

making a sock we have to accommodate the space available.”<br />

Brand managers reports strong sales even during the economic<br />

downturn. “History has proven that socks are recession proof, you can get<br />

the best of something for under $20,” reports Marchand.<br />

Are consumers brand loyal?<br />

It’s not hard to identify outdoor gear and apparel brands that generate<br />

passionate loyalty from users. Does that loyalty include technical outdoor<br />

socks?<br />

“We feel we have the most passionate, dedicated and loyal fans in the<br />

world. Fortunately for us, they also like to tell their friends. Our research<br />

shows that more than 90 percent of our fans tell their friends about us,”<br />

says Beck. “Our consumers connect with us on a rational level in that<br />

they know they can trust our products to deliver the comfort they need<br />

to do what they love to do. However, they also connect with us on a much<br />

more emotional level. We are authentic in everything we do in that we<br />

believe more joy can be found outside. This resonates with our consumers<br />

because they believe this too.”<br />

“Our customers are not buying price-driven cheap socks. There is<br />

loyalty to quality, value, and USA Made products,” says Stangl.<br />

New brands breaking into the technical sock category have to overcome<br />

consumer loyalty to get their brands noticed. “Consumers are fiercely<br />

loyal. We’ve had a big hurdle [to overcome]. People are very loyal to<br />

specific brands and we have the same issue with retailers. They see the<br />

brand loyalty of their consumers that’s driving their decisions,” notes<br />

Wood Talkington, brand manager, FITS Sock Co. “They want to stick with<br />

what’s working. You have to get the socks on their feet and then they will<br />

make their decisions from there.”<br />

While its clear outdoor enthusiasts may have a go-to sock brand, there<br />

is definitely room for experimentation with new brand. “To a large degree<br />

they are loyal. The flip side is that socks are a relatively inexpensive<br />

impulse purchase,” notes Ric Cabot, owner and founder of Darn Tough. “If<br />

something that catches your eye it’s not a big investment to try something<br />

16 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


6 7 8 9 10 11<br />

new. A lot of the new things on the market are almost art for art sake.<br />

You will see bells and whistles just for the sake of putting something on<br />

the sock. When people realize that that is mostly cosmetic they go back<br />

to the brands they are comfortable with,” says Cabot. “Just become its<br />

shiny and new, doesn’t mean that the socks are comfortable, durable or<br />

fit well. People have more sock choices then they have ever had and they<br />

are definitely getting more educated about socks.”<br />

Barrows agrees. “I think that there is some loyalty to the legacy brands<br />

that have been around for a long time. At the same time, since there is now<br />

such a proliferation of brands, I think there is a lot of brand switching.”<br />

Sock designs now cover very specific applications like skiing,<br />

backpacking and trail running. Ultimately, the user’s experience will<br />

influence future purchases. “Consumers are looking for brands with<br />

meaning. The product must perform and the consumer wants to<br />

feel good about the brands they are<br />

supporting,” says Marchand. “If they find<br />

this combination they will keep coming<br />

back. Goodhew is focusing on building<br />

brand loyalty through our everyday<br />

technical performance combined with<br />

fresh design and color.”<br />

Fashion is important but function<br />

still rules the day. “When the product no<br />

longer functions or starts to fail through a<br />

Left to Right:<br />

1 Darn Tough Tulip Shorty Plum<br />

2 Darn Tough Flame<br />

3 Point 6 Hiking Tech<br />

4 Point 6 Lotus Extra Light<br />

5 Smartwool 708<br />

6 Fox River Trail Quarter<br />

7 FITS Women’s Low<br />

8 Lorpen XTRW Steel Blue<br />

9 Smartwool 875<br />

10 Smartwool 874<br />

11 Point 6 Half Stack Light Crew<br />

durability issue then the consumer becomes disenchanted with their once<br />

go to sock and start to look for a different brand that meets their standards,”<br />

offers Duke. “The most important thing to a consumer who is serious about<br />

their sport is function. l


Footwear<br />

The Trail Evolves<br />

Minimalism pushes outdoor and<br />

running brand’s footwear design<br />

Trail running has earned its place in outdoor recreation.<br />

Creation of the Endurance Zone section on the <strong>Outdoor</strong><br />

Retailer Summer Market show floor offers an example of the<br />

category’s importance to outdoor specialty retailers.<br />

Following lifecycles of many product categories, trail<br />

running has splintered into multiple product segments<br />

targeting specific kinds of trail running enthusiasts. “The trail market has<br />

evolved a lot in the last five years. Previously known as multi-function,<br />

if you look at the typology of the shoes that<br />

dominated the market at the start they tended to<br />

be great versatile, multi-function outdoor shoes<br />

but with pretty mediocre runnability,” notes<br />

Tom Berry, VP of global sales, marketing and<br />

merchandising for the Tecnica Group. “Today<br />

there are at least three categories. You still have<br />

the multi-function category, then shoes with<br />

better runnability, and third, the trend toward<br />

minimalism. The Holy Grail is to be able to have<br />

the versatility of multi-function but with the<br />

more runnability.”<br />

Adopted early by outdoor enthusiasts,<br />

trail running is attracting more traditional<br />

roadrunners. “The trail market is emerging as<br />

running grows. Running is becoming a lot of<br />

people’s primary fitness activity. When that<br />

Everyone<br />

is trying to<br />

get off of<br />

manmade<br />

surfaces<br />

and onto<br />

natural<br />

surfaces.<br />

Kirk Richardson<br />

Montrail<br />

happens they are looking for ways to break up the monotony of running<br />

around the block,” says Carson Caprara, Brooks Sports running footwear<br />

product line manager.<br />

“Runners are exploring different kinds of running shoes, workouts, and<br />

ultimately different running routes and terrain. The moderate trails are<br />

s<br />

SAuCONy<br />

the saucony Pro Grid Peregrine 2<br />

is designed for the trail runner<br />

looking for lighter weight footwear.<br />

more accessible to runners and they are exploring them.”<br />

The definition of trail running has also broadened to include more<br />

than just Rocky <strong>Mountain</strong> locations. Packed dirt paths in urban parks<br />

and crushed limestone rails to trails conversions are becoming popular<br />

venues.<br />

“The one thing you have to say about the trail market and running in<br />

general is that everyone is trying to get off of manmade surfaces and onto<br />

natural surfaces,’ says Kirk Richardson, business director of Montrail.<br />

“There’s a much stronger understanding that getting off road has myriad<br />

benefits for people who are running as a principle form of fitness and<br />

reaction. Trail running has become a much more sought after aspect of<br />

the whole running experience.”<br />

As more users enter the market, footwear brands are designing trail<br />

shoes for different kinds of terrain and running preferences.<br />

“The product has evolved into lighter more flexible product by<br />

lowering midsole heights, adding more flex grooves and using less upper<br />

materials combined with a more simple construction,” reports Brice<br />

Newton, footwear product marketing manager at ASICS. “Our footwear<br />

team is constantly striving to reduce overall weight through alternate<br />

constructions and materials, but at the same time ensuring protection for<br />

the runner.”<br />

The Minimalism Influence<br />

After exploding on the road running environment, minimalism design<br />

influences are being seen in trail running footwear. “The idea of how<br />

do you make runners more efficient is something that adidas and other<br />

companies have been working on for a long time,” reports Greg Thomsen,<br />

managing director at Adidas <strong>Outdoor</strong> USA. “It’s not something new.<br />

We’ve all known that lighter weight, more stability, more traction and<br />

durability come into the equation. What I like about the minimalist side<br />

18 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


ECCO<br />

19


Footwear<br />

SAuCONy<br />

saucony sees minimalism as an<br />

interesting test lab as the brand<br />

continues to expand our trail line.<br />

saucony Xodos 3.0 features a<br />

vibram sole for off-road traction.<br />

BROOKS<br />

brooks believes there is a<br />

definitely a market for shoes that<br />

are a little more secure, supportive<br />

and durable. the brooks true Grit<br />

is a lightweight trail shoe.<br />

mERRELL<br />

merrell’s women’s dash glove<br />

continues its commitment<br />

to minimalist footwear.<br />

of the business right now is that it is bringing<br />

more focus to running and to new design<br />

concepts. Even though many runners swear<br />

by the minimalist technology others have<br />

experienced negative results. But overall,<br />

the exploration of this design concept and<br />

new directions for improving an athlete’s<br />

performance will continue to push the<br />

creative boundaries of product development.<br />

That’s really positive.”<br />

Merrell has fully embraced minimalist<br />

running principles. The trail market is<br />

ever evolving. With the fast pace of the<br />

barefoot movement, many traditional athletic<br />

brands are entering the market with their<br />

interpretation of a minimal trail running shoe,”<br />

says Craig Throne, VP- global marketing at<br />

Merrell. “In Spring 2012, we bet we will see<br />

the majority of outdoor and athletic brands<br />

approaching trail running in a much more<br />

minimal design focus.”<br />

Throne continues, “The minimalist trend<br />

has influenced the way that we are designing<br />

our entire range of Merrell Barefoot. A<br />

common design thread in Merrell Barefoot<br />

design is our BareForm approach that<br />

encourages a natural midfoot landing in a<br />

foot-shaped forefoot design offering ample<br />

foot splay and ground feel.”<br />

Opinions about the potential of minimalist<br />

designs in trail running footwear vary<br />

significantly across outdoor and traditional<br />

running shoe brand executives.<br />

“There’s a lot of one-sided dialogue going<br />

on. Lot of people saying there is a right and<br />

wrong way to run. Those shoes aren’t healthy<br />

for you. There’s a lot of confusion for the<br />

every day runner. They don’t know what’s<br />

right or wrong,” says Caprara. “At Brooks,<br />

we’ve don’t see anything wrong with a shoe<br />

that provides you with a lot of protection as<br />

long as there is functionality built into the<br />

shoe that works with the body. There is definitely<br />

still a market for these shoes that are<br />

a little more secure, supportive and durable.<br />

It’s not that there is a right or wrong. Different<br />

shoes will provide different experiences.”<br />

Even with differing perspective there<br />

appears to be room for growth for both<br />

competitive approaches. “The minimal trend<br />

is creating new energy in the category,” says<br />

Bryan Gothie, product manager, New Balance.<br />

“Minimal product is one end of the spectrum.<br />

The definition of what was traditional in the<br />

past is moving toward minimal and redefining<br />

what’s normal. We’re seeing lighter weight<br />

and lower to the ground.”<br />

Minimalism has allowed brands to evaluate<br />

the geometry and engineering of trail shoes.”<br />

Minimalism has been an interesting test lab<br />

as we continue to expand our trail line,’<br />

says Patrick O’Malley, SVP of global product,<br />

Saucony. Minimalism has allowed us to<br />

provide more options to runners. We’ve been<br />

20 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com<br />

s<br />

s<br />

s


able to expand our line and let the runner decide<br />

which is their number one priority.”<br />

Runners are looking for ways to connect with the<br />

physical experience of running. “They want ground<br />

contact and to be involved in the experience. A shoe<br />

with a lot of protection can take away from that,”<br />

notes Caprara. “There’s an emerging mindset of<br />

runners who want to feel every step they take and<br />

be in touch with the ground underneath their feet<br />

and activate their proprioception. Those runners<br />

are looking for product that is lighter, more flexible<br />

and lower profile that allows that experience.”<br />

The trend of lightweight will influence ASICS<br />

trail running product in a very similar way as it<br />

has influenced ASICS road running products. “This<br />

product will be considerably lighter, more flexible<br />

and include different variations of ASICS popular<br />

no-sew upper construction. We will also see more<br />

color and brighter colors,” explains Newton. “The<br />

difference with the trail product is that it still needs<br />

to provide protection and excellent traction. Traditional trail running product<br />

will continue to be important because there is still a group of consumers<br />

that will not be able to transition into the lighter weight product and another<br />

segment that will use the light weight product as an alternate shoe or fast<br />

paced shoe.”<br />

Footwear brands that come from an outdoor orientation see the<br />

BAFFIN<br />

21<br />

s<br />

ASICS<br />

Gel-trail sensor 5<br />

the lightweight trend will influence<br />

Asics trail running product in a<br />

very similar way as it has influenced<br />

Asics road running products.<br />

minimalism a bit differently. “Minimalism has created more interest in the<br />

trail and that’s a good thing. We’re trying to leverage our experience in<br />

technology in trail and take it in as many meaningful directions as we can,”<br />

says Kyle Rackiewicz, product development director at Vasque. “We are<br />

not going to emulate what the latest trend is if its not in our tool belt of<br />

experience and technology in how we build footwear. We look at minimalism


Footwear<br />

the new oboz lightning bdry<br />

is a waterproof breathable version<br />

of the lighting trail running shoe.<br />

the lightning bdry offers<br />

all-around performance and<br />

durability for running on a full<br />

spectrum of surfaces, including the<br />

most rugged and rocky trails.<br />

Gel-trabuco 14<br />

the Asics footwear team is<br />

constantly striving to reduce<br />

overall weight through alternate<br />

constructions and materials, but<br />

at the same time ensuring<br />

protection for the runner.<br />

the north Face single track<br />

Hayasa. the north Face is<br />

finding better foams, better<br />

cushioning properties, new welded<br />

technologies and lighter weight<br />

fabrications to create their trail<br />

running shoes.<br />

as a good thing for the industry overall and we<br />

will wade into it as we learn and are able to do<br />

it right by leveraging our experience building<br />

shoes.”<br />

The minimalist trend has had some<br />

influence on the trail footwear market.<br />

“You see lots of brands with lower profile<br />

minimalist shoes but I think the jury is still<br />

out whether people are going to buy them<br />

or not,” says Jonathan Lantz, president, La<br />

Sportiva N.A. “You see a lot of shoes the<br />

walls but when you look at what’s turning.<br />

With hard-core trail runners no one has fully<br />

embraced the minimalist trail market from<br />

what I see. If a runner is already interested<br />

in minimalist will buy.”<br />

Not all trail running brands are jumping<br />

into the minimalist segment.<br />

“Minimalism is going to contribute to a<br />

disconnect with runners. My feeling is that<br />

the initial market reaction to minimalism is<br />

going to slow down or even out as people<br />

recognize that a minimalist shoe is not<br />

perfect for every condition, situation and<br />

trail,” suggests Josh Fairchilds, founder of<br />

Oboz. “We’re not going after the minimalist<br />

market. Our feeling is that while there is a<br />

tremendous amount of validity in training feet<br />

to be stronger we know from focus groups<br />

that we have done with trail and mountain<br />

runners in Montana they are looking for<br />

durability and protection and they are still<br />

looking to the traditional model for trail<br />

running shoes. We’re sticking with that. We<br />

don’t think the traditional trail running shoe<br />

isn’t going away any time soon.”<br />

Fairchilds adds, “At the same time,<br />

minimalism has educated people a great deal<br />

about foot strength. It’s not just a matter<br />

of just buying the right shoe and that shoe<br />

will solve all your running problems. It’s<br />

about training correctly and an important<br />

component of that should be foot strength.<br />

Minimalist shoes are a great way to do that<br />

while still protecting your feet.”<br />

From models offering maximum protection<br />

from exposed roots and rocks on wilderness<br />

ultra-distance trails to minimalist-inspired<br />

trail racing shoes, runners benefit from more<br />

trail running options than ever before.<br />

“The pendulum is always swinging. Now<br />

we have the minimalist trend. People want<br />

to try that out. There’s more acceptance of<br />

lighter weight more minimal product,” says<br />

Richardson. “There is a strong consumer<br />

preference to experience the less is more<br />

product. But there’s sort of a balance. On the<br />

one hand there are a lot of biomechanical<br />

advantages to that but you need to be<br />

prudent and thoughtful on how fast you make<br />

the transition from conventional running<br />

and trail running shoes to the uber minimal<br />

products. The universe of product choices is<br />

getting more robust for the trail runner. The<br />

22 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com<br />

OBOz<br />

s<br />

ASICS<br />

s<br />

THE NORTH FACE<br />

s


eadth of product offerings will continue to evolve.”<br />

JP Borod, product director of footwear at The North Face comments,<br />

“Its’ good that brands have a multitude of options for different<br />

runners, different activities and from different biomechanical builds.<br />

From our standpoint we don’t want to ask you to change your gait.<br />

We think that if you are on trail you do need a level of support and<br />

protection. Retailers will need a wide variety of options to fit their<br />

customers. There’s not a one size fits all solution.”<br />

Ultimately, minimalism is driving runners into specialty retailers<br />

filled with questions about which is the most appropriate trail<br />

running shoe for their interests. “Our sales have been up month over<br />

month consistently. We’re still continuing to grow and evolve. New<br />

people continue to come in, “ says Lauren Barra, product category<br />

manager, Salomon Footwear. “Any type of innovation in the market is<br />

a good thing. That allows all brands to be innovative. The minimalism<br />

story is another step. It’s exciting for the market. It’s led to a lot of<br />

new product that we haven’t seen come as quickly before.”<br />

<strong>Mountain</strong> Brands vs. Traditional Running Brands<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong> brands with climbing heritages approach trail running<br />

differently from traditional road shoe brands. Early in the trail<br />

running market’s evolution, those differences were distinct. That’s<br />

not necessarily the case today.<br />

“In the trail running market, we still see outdoor brands having<br />

the upper hand as we have always focused on the outdoor experience<br />

and trail terrain with a ‘groundwork’<br />

approach,” says Throne. “The<br />

Merrell approach is simple, we work<br />

Minimalism<br />

has educated<br />

people a<br />

great deal<br />

about foot<br />

strength.<br />

Josh Fairchilds, Oboz<br />

outdoorinsightmag.com<br />

from the ground up knowing that the<br />

closer a runner is to his or her terrain,<br />

the more ground feel a runner<br />

experiences and the better a runner’s<br />

form. It will be interesting to see<br />

the approach that traditional running<br />

brands bring to trail running in light<br />

of the barefoot movement. It is going<br />

to be a crowded space with many different<br />

options.”<br />

O’Malley adds, “A lot of mountain<br />

brands have gotten really aggressive in trail. For us, it’s running first.<br />

Moving to trail has been a really easy transition for us. Now, the<br />

retailers are reducing the amount of brands on the wall and going<br />

with running brands that they trust.”<br />

Both perspectives have learned from their competitor’s approach.<br />

The result is a hybrid of design philosophies. “I don’t know if the<br />

lines are as distinct now. They are more gray than ever,” says Gothie.<br />

“Everyone can make a great shoe now. The doors are more open now<br />

for companies to come in without being tagged by a personification that<br />

‘you can’t make a lightweight shoe’ or ‘you can’t make a running shoe.’”<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong> brands have become much more sophisticated in our<br />

levels of development. “We’ve also attracted a lot of talent from the<br />

running industry. Today there is a big conversion of road technology<br />

in trail that enables us to make our shoes far better performing than<br />

they were before,” says Borod. “We’re finding better foams, better<br />

cushioning properties, new welded technologies and lighter weight<br />

fabrications. When you go to trail events and people are still wearing<br />

their road shoes but they are starting to learn about the benefits<br />

outdoor brands are bringing to road shoes. Whether it’s minimalism<br />

or product sophistication, you are seeing outdoor brands building<br />

shoes with a less is more philosophy.”<br />

Trail running continues to attract enthusiasts and attention from<br />

outdoor specialty retailers. With expanding model lines responding<br />

to minimalism trends, the 2011 <strong>Outdoor</strong> Retailer Summer Market<br />

Endurance Zone is likely to be a very busy place. l<br />

TREKSTA<br />

23


Consumers,<br />

already familiar with<br />

an outdoor brand’s<br />

performance with<br />

technical apparel<br />

and equipment now<br />

measure them on<br />

their fashion sense.<br />

“For women,<br />

the cute factor is<br />

what they respond<br />

to. They are<br />

shopping at outdoor<br />

retail because<br />

they assume there<br />

is a technical<br />

performance aspect<br />

to it already.”<br />

Bill Inman,<br />

Apparel Business<br />

Director, Merrell<br />

Apparel<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong> apparel brands find<br />

“The outdoor<br />

lifestyle apparel<br />

category didn’t exist<br />

when we got into<br />

the business. It’s<br />

great to see it come<br />

as far as it has. The<br />

category is now<br />

legitimate.”<br />

Gordon Seabury,<br />

CEO, Horny Toad<br />

Ready To<br />

outdoor industry veterans with a bit<br />

of gray in their hair will remember<br />

the business world’s begrudging<br />

acceptance of “casual Friday” attire.<br />

Wardrobe choices that seem natural<br />

today were once viewed as wildly<br />

out of place in 9-5 offices.<br />

“We’ve seen this opportunity for<br />

quite some time. Since day one the<br />

idea was to take technically driven<br />

fabrics being applied to crossover<br />

lifestyle design,” reports Gordon Seabury, CEO at Horny Toad.<br />

“The outdoor lifestyle apparel category didn’t exist when we got<br />

into the business. Its great to see it come as far as it has. The<br />

category is now legitimate.”<br />

In many industries the corporate uniform of suit, tailored shirt<br />

and tie have given way to plaids, khakis and lightweight fleeces.<br />

“Now there are no rules. You can create your own looks and it’s<br />

acceptable. It opens the door for the product we create that’s<br />

inspired outdoors to be one of those pieces.” reports Sue Parham,<br />

VP-global apparel merchandising at Columbia Sportswear. “It used<br />

to be that you would not integrate your lifestyle wardrobe with<br />

your work wardrobe. Those rules have gone out the window and<br />

people are mixing everything together.”<br />

More than ever, outdoor enthusiasts are purchasing apparel<br />

from the technical equipment and apparel brands they use<br />

during weekend pursuits. “People are buying more versatile<br />

apparel and that apparel aligns with what they are passionate<br />

about. They are integrating those pieces into their wardrobes,”<br />

says Parham.<br />

Consumers appear to evaluate apparel the same way they make<br />

decisions about their outdoor gear. “We’re known for our footwear<br />

and our apparel is an extension of the brand. What we hear<br />

back consistently from consumers is that the brand is all about<br />

versatility,” says Bill Inman, Merrell’s apparel business director. “I<br />

can wear it to work and then go for a hike. Versatility is definitely<br />

what people are looking for. It’s a hiking short with enough style to<br />

cross over from outdoor activity to lifestyle use.”<br />

In addition to specific technical-oriented feature sets, outdoor<br />

apparel has also been inspired by an environmentally friendly<br />

ethos. “The outdoor natural influence in fashion is seen as an<br />

unpretentious, honest, reflection of changing values as a new<br />

generation realizes the enormous value that nature/outdoors<br />

plays in their lives and those of their children,” notes Marty<br />

Weening, president of Gramicci.<br />

Balancing Fashion and Technical Performance<br />

Consumers, already familiar with an outdoor brand’s<br />

performance with technical apparel and equipment now measure<br />

them on their fashion sense. “When they have a good experience<br />

with the product on the weekend the barriers for the outdoor<br />

brands to move into lifestyle are reduced. <strong>Outdoor</strong> brands have<br />

the ability to provide product without sacrificing performance,<br />

24 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


opportunity to expand lifestyle apparel sales<br />

Wear 7 Days a Week<br />

their brand or their heritage with apparel that has the flexibility to be<br />

worn the other five days of the week,” says Greg Houser, VP-production<br />

at Marmot. “We have the ability to be more fashionable without<br />

sacrificing who we are as a brand. It’s a fine balance between outdoor<br />

lifestyle and technical performance. That’s what we’re trying to get at<br />

and that’s the opportunity for retailers and outdoor brands.”<br />

Helena Barbour, product line director for lifestyle at Patagonia,<br />

comments: “Customers have become much more discriminating with<br />

their purchasing decisions with company’s like ours. It’s making sure<br />

our product we offer in addition to being fashionable and performance<br />

oriented are also relevant to market trends.”<br />

What apparel features are outdoor enthusiasts looking for today?<br />

“Crossover versatility, and design that enhances the outdoor active<br />

experience but also can be worn any-wear concept. Comfort, comfort,<br />

comfort and fit combined with function. Finally, performance fabrics<br />

that really do perform wick, breath, dry fast, don’t shrink and last,”<br />

notes Weening.<br />

Patagonia’s Spring ’12 apparel line focuses on apparel products<br />

that have had a performance history. “We’ve retained that appeal and<br />

updated the styling to be a little more street savvy. The crossover from<br />

the mountain, the crag, or the beach to the day job, the street and a<br />

BBQ with friends is an easy one,” says Kristo Torgersen, product line<br />

coordinator for lifestyle, Patagonia.<br />

Fortunately, outdoor apparel brands aren’t as tied to rapidly<br />

changing fashion trends as other lifestyle brands are. “<strong>Outdoor</strong> apparel<br />

is not intended or designed to be the trend of the week,” says Seabury.<br />

“It’s intended to have longevity. Fabrics will last more than a decade<br />

and styles will last five to seven years The designs that we are putting<br />

them into are designed for longevity. We never want you to wake up<br />

one day and look at a Horny Toad product and be embarrassed about<br />

it being out of style.”<br />

<strong>Mountain</strong> <strong>Khakis</strong> apparel reflects a classic, enduring design. “We try<br />

outdoorinsightmag.com<br />

not to overthink and overdesign our apparel. We believe in staples,<br />

classics and clean lines. Being a mountain lifestyle brand we recognize<br />

the need to understand customer,” says Noah Robertson, <strong>Mountain</strong><br />

<strong>Khakis</strong>, director of design and product development. “When we use<br />

more technical fabrics we are addressing those activities. Having those<br />

details resonates with the consumer.”<br />

As expected, men and women have different apparel purchase behaviors.<br />

“For women, the cute factor is what they respond to. They are<br />

shopping at outdoor retail because they assume there is a technical<br />

performance aspect to it already,” says Inman. “Younger men want<br />

cleaner apparel designs with the technical functionality they expect<br />

in outdoor gear. They look for features like wrinkle free and hidden<br />

pockets but with a style that works in a casual work environment.”<br />

Columbia’s Spring ’12 apparel line will launch significant technical<br />

innovations designed to improve the user’s outdoor experience.<br />

Function and fashion play equally important roles. “The functional<br />

performance of the garment is what changes their minds. You may<br />

Left to Right: <strong>Mountain</strong> <strong>Khakis</strong> Women’s Oxbow Burnt Sienna shirt, <strong>Mountain</strong> <strong>Khakis</strong> Men’s Oxbow Dark Olive shirt. <strong>Mountain</strong> <strong>Khakis</strong> Fairway Polo shirt<br />

love how something looks but you fall in love with it when it performs,”<br />

reports Parham. At Columbia, Every opportunity we have to bring<br />

better performance to our apparel is one of those features that<br />

converts people and gives them a better opinion of our brand.”<br />

Today, outdoor apparel brands have seized on the opportunity to<br />

position their products with mainstream lifestyle brands like the Gap,<br />

Old Navy, L.L.Bean, J.Crew and others.<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong> enthusiasts are becoming more comfortable with visiting<br />

specialty retailers for apparel needs. “We’re seeing the outdoor retailer<br />

turning into more of a one-stop shop for people. Instead of just weekend<br />

wear they are going there for seven-day a week apparel,” says Houser.<br />

“That’s the opportunity the outdoor industry has. The customers enjoy<br />

the shopping environment, the customer service and the quality of the<br />

product is much better than they are going to get in other shopping<br />

channels. Instead of buying disposable wear they are buying products<br />

July/August 2011 • outdoor insight • 25


Apparel<br />

Left to Right: Marmot Ellwood shirt, <strong>Mountain</strong> <strong>Khakis</strong> collection, Patagonia All Stone shirt, <strong>Mountain</strong> <strong>Khakis</strong>, Americano Jacket.<br />

they can trust. That’s really important in this economy.”<br />

With easing apparel standards in the workplace, clothing choices that work<br />

during and after work are being widely accepted. “There’s an opportunity<br />

for consumers to fully embrace this idea of one wardrobe,” says Seabury.<br />

“The ability to get up in the morning and put on clothing with fabrications<br />

thoughtfully developed with performance, functional and sustainable aspects<br />

but still in terms of comfort, look and feel not compromise any of the things<br />

you would be looking for in a sportswear collection.”<br />

Specialty retailers have to adapt accordingly and learn to improve<br />

merchandising presentations to at least reflect what consumers are<br />

used to in other apparel stores. “There is an evolution going on. The<br />

way we are presenting apparel is becoming more cohesive. There’s a<br />

lot more focus on collections rather than just classifications. But there<br />

are still lingering channels out there where you can walk in and see<br />

a sea of convertible pants in various colors of tan,” explains Parham.<br />

“By using color and integrating lifestyle pieces, we are advancing the<br />

merchandising presentation.”<br />

Apparel brands work with retailers to change the way they present<br />

apparel. “Retailers are starting to focus on brands rather than categories.<br />

Some stores would merchandise all pants together,” states Robertson.<br />

“Now I see more retailers merchandising brands separately. That’s<br />

much more in relation to what department stores will do. This is much<br />

more than just a pants and shorts business.”<br />

Robertson notes that since retailers have invested thousands of<br />

dollars in merchandising fixtures, it can be a challenge getting them to<br />

accept those elements from apparel brands. “The best retailers have<br />

upgraded their visual merchandising and store presentations to match<br />

the [fashion] industry outside our category,” reports Inman. “We’re<br />

working with them to make that easier for them to do.”<br />

Selling apparel requires learning new inventory management thinking.<br />

Left to Right: <strong>Mountain</strong> <strong>Khakis</strong> Women’s Collection, Marmot Women’s Kristie, Marmot Pinnacle, Marmot Stride<br />

“<strong>Outdoor</strong> specialty retail is built on an equipment model and two<br />

turn business cycle. Buy in the spring, hope it all sells, close it out,<br />

then order a delivery of new product for the fall and winter,” explains<br />

Seabury. “We’re working real hard to with outdoor specialty retailers to<br />

learn the tools of what it is to be a sophisticated merchandiser.”<br />

Horny Toad opened its own store, the Lizard Lounge, to experiment<br />

with merchandising and display ideas. “Whatever advice we give<br />

to retailers is tested and proven versus experimented on with their<br />

stores,” says Seabury. “When you are dealing with lifestyle apparel<br />

you have to make it interesting, fresh and much more relevant month<br />

to month and week to week. So merchandising, inventory management<br />

and planning are much more centric skills than some of our traditional<br />

outdoor retailers may have had in their foundational toolbox. We’re<br />

super committed to partner with our retailers and to work together<br />

to figure out how to make them better and how we can be better as a<br />

supplier. Everyone has embraced the opportunity and trying to figure<br />

out how to get better and evolve up the chain.”<br />

In the future, lifestyle apparel from outdoor brands may play an even<br />

larger role in consumer’s wardrobes. Expanding collections, improving<br />

merchandising and staying true to technical performance benefits,<br />

outdoor brands and specialty retailers can capture significant revenues.<br />

This is just not an opportunity for the retailers but also for the<br />

outdoor brands to expand their product offerings. Retailers have to be<br />

more diverse in there offerings. They have to provide more choice in<br />

their assortment. That will attract people to the store and give them a<br />

reason not to walk out empty-handed. With a $400 technical jacket, you<br />

are giving the customer one or two choices. Adding lifestyle apparel<br />

allows your current customer to buy more from you and you now find<br />

a new customer without losing them to another store where they aren’t<br />

happy with the service or product selection. l<br />

26 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


TEFLON AD<br />

27


Apparel<br />

Original <strong>Outdoor</strong> Brands<br />

By Lou Dzierzak<br />

The exhibitor list of the <strong>Outdoor</strong><br />

Retailer show is filled with<br />

apparel brands. Some names<br />

have burst on the outdoor<br />

scene to become the latest<br />

and greatest while others have<br />

had their day in the sun and faded away.<br />

Year after year, though, two companies have<br />

remained on the floor doing business in the<br />

outdoor market. Woolrich and Filson have<br />

hard-earned credentials that go back more<br />

than a century.<br />

In 1830, John Rich, an English immigrant,<br />

built a mill in Pennsylvania and sold wool<br />

socks and blankets from a mule cart. Within<br />

20 years the Woolrich Buffalo Check Shirt and<br />

Wool Field Coat were already classics. “In the<br />

beginning most of the product we provided<br />

was used by outdoor workers like lumbermen,<br />

railroad men and hunters. Everything we<br />

made was designed to perform in the outdoor<br />

environment,” notes Brian Mangione, EVP,<br />

Woolrich.<br />

Filson’s story begins in 1897, across the<br />

country and in the midst of the great gold<br />

rush. “C.C. Filson found that people coming<br />

to the Pacific Northwest to stake a claim in<br />

gold rush were ill-prepared for the weather.<br />

The elements were cold, rainy and damp.<br />

They weren’t dressed for it, so Filson started<br />

building outerwear and blankets,” explains<br />

Filson, CEO and president Mark Korros. “In<br />

his words it was more of a matter of survival<br />

than a matter of what people wanted. They<br />

needed functional items that would shield<br />

them from the rain, snow and cold. His focus<br />

was on building rugged, durable clothing outdoor<br />

clothing that outfitted the miners, loggers,<br />

fisherman and explorers. Our<br />

original customers were people who<br />

were going into the outback territory<br />

between Washington and Alaska and<br />

just trying to stay alive and accomplish<br />

what they set out to do.”<br />

The definition of what it is to be an<br />

outdoor enthusiast has changed dramatically<br />

since Woolrich and Filson<br />

started selling their apparel. Synthetic<br />

fabrics from nylon to Gore-Tex pushed<br />

traditional materials like wool, cotton<br />

and leather to the sidelines.<br />

Still, amazingly, given the small<br />

number of century-old companies<br />

who are still in business today,<br />

Woolrich and Filson are still relevant<br />

today. There have been challenges,<br />

though. “For the first 150<br />

years we were a manufacturer-based company,<br />

but we didn’t change as fast as the market<br />

changed and people’s lifestyles evolved,” says<br />

Mangione.<br />

With renewed vigor and a shift in mentality<br />

from manufacturer to a brand-based marketing<br />

company, Woolrich is making the transition<br />

to the modern, 21st Century outdoor<br />

world. “Our heart and soul is in the outdoors.<br />

100<br />

+<br />

Woolrich and<br />

Filson stay<br />

relevant after<br />

more than<br />

a century in<br />

business.<br />

Our rugged performance and style plays on<br />

our heritage,” says Mangione. “We were relevant<br />

in 1800s and the goal is to become<br />

extremely relevant today.”<br />

Constructed of paraffin wax and canvas,<br />

Filson’s Tin Cloth Jacket has remained a best<br />

seller for decades. “We’re still relevant<br />

today. These authentic products<br />

that were built for a purpose<br />

and still serve the same purpose<br />

today,” reports Korros. “The brand<br />

has this incredible legacy of 114<br />

years in business.”<br />

The technical performance characteristics<br />

of today’s outdoor<br />

brands may be appropriate in<br />

applications like extreme climbing<br />

and skiing, but Filson and Woolrich<br />

can claim performance advantages<br />

unmatched by these options. “In<br />

several categories like our Oil Tin<br />

Cloth and wool Mackinaw jackets<br />

where our proprietary fabrics have<br />

been built into product we outdistance<br />

anyone who tries to compete<br />

with us both from a quality and design standpoint,”<br />

says Koros.<br />

Woolrich is looking at new technologies<br />

that will make wool water repellant. “We’re<br />

doing things a little differently so that consumer<br />

and trade will notice,” says Mangione.<br />

“The morale and culture of the company is<br />

the highest it’s been in some time.”<br />

A Filson Tin Cloth Jacket is one of a few out-<br />

28 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


door products that have been handed down<br />

from generation to generation, says Korros.<br />

“I’m hard-pressed to think of other apparel<br />

items where the grandfather gave the coat to<br />

his son, son gave it to his grandson. That may<br />

happen with automobiles or collectibles but I<br />

haven’t come up with an apparel item that fits<br />

that description.”<br />

Korros adds, “Four years from now will that<br />

polyfill jacket have any real purpose to it. The<br />

odds are that it probably won’t. Our mackinaw<br />

wool coat most likely will be in as good as<br />

shape as close to new because they are built<br />

to last a long time.”<br />

Rutabaga in Madison, WI, is a flagship Filson<br />

retailer. Come the end of summer, outdoor<br />

enthusiasts are looking for protection from<br />

cold, damp Wisconsin autumns. “Our customers<br />

definitely look at Filson as really tough<br />

good outerwear. They like how strong and<br />

durable Filson is. You are much less likely to<br />

snag and rip a piece of Tin Cloth than you are<br />

your lightweight nylon raincoat or Gore-Tex<br />

jacket,” reports Woody Osborne, assistant<br />

manager at Rutabaga. “Filson customers are a<br />

specialized breed. They have discovered that<br />

Filson is some of the toughest stuff around.<br />

Comfortable once you break it in. People<br />

who appreciate hard-wearing gear and have<br />

to have stuff that will last and protect them<br />

appreciate Filson.”<br />

Filson and Woolrich may be better known<br />

to an older customer, but both brands are<br />

reaching out with new marketing initiatives to<br />

change that perception among retailers and<br />

consumers.<br />

“There’s a lot of sameness in the marketplace<br />

when you look at technical brands,”<br />

Mangione. “We want to have a look and style<br />

that is inherently Woolrich and separates<br />

outdoorinsightmag.com<br />

us from the crowd. We’re creating a brand<br />

position that visually communicates who and<br />

what we are to the consumer. If you make<br />

it clear to everyone what you stand for, it’s<br />

easier to get the message out there.”<br />

Susan Mason, a buyer at Kittery Trading<br />

Post, Kittery, ME, says Woolrich is one of the<br />

retailer’s primary apparel brands. After seeing<br />

line previews Mason is excited about the<br />

future. “Woolrich has done a tremendous job<br />

of promoting wool in their line. They are going<br />

back to their heritage,” reports Mason. “It’s<br />

true basic product.”<br />

In Texas, Murdock’s has carried Woolrich<br />

for over a decade. “It definitely attracts an<br />

older generation but they have made some<br />

changes that will appeal to a younger audience.<br />

The line looks really good for Fall ’11<br />

and Spring ’12,” reports Laura McCloney,<br />

clothing buyer. “Woolrich is doing well for<br />

us. It’s one of the store’s top five brands for<br />

apparel.”<br />

Korros notes Filson has collaborated with<br />

youth-oriented brands like Vans, Levi’s and<br />

Sebago to introduce Filson to a younger audience.<br />

“Our customer base is 61 percent men,<br />

39 percent women and 35-65 is the age of<br />

our core customer,” explains Korros. “We’re<br />

working to attract younger audience with lifestyle<br />

apparel. We’re doing it in a way that’s a<br />

little more hip. We feel that when they have<br />

the opportunity to experience our brand quality,<br />

design and learn about the heritage we<br />

will win them as customers.”<br />

Woolrich has pushed the fashion envelope<br />

with an offshoot called the Woolrich Woolen<br />

Mills Collection. Created by internationally<br />

well-known fashion designers Daiki Suzuki and<br />

Mark McNairy, the collection, influenced by<br />

Woolrich’s heritage woodsman style, has been<br />

Left to Right: Woolrich Women’s Branton Jacket. Woolrich<br />

Arctic Parka. Woolrich Buffalo Check Shirt. Woolrich Field<br />

Coat. Filson Fairmont Wool Peacoat. Filson Mackinaw Cruiser.<br />

shown in Milan’s Fashion Week exhibition.<br />

Heritage brands like Woolrich and Filson<br />

are experiencing resurgence in interest from<br />

retailers and consumers. Customer loyalty<br />

and word of mouth recommendations play<br />

an important role but success isn’t purely<br />

based on a fashion fad. These iconic American<br />

brands have become extremely fashionable.<br />

It’s really energized our brand and purpose,”<br />

comments Korros. “We find that fashion retailers<br />

are just as interested as selling Filson<br />

today as our outfitter retailers. Our apparel<br />

products built today are extremely durable,<br />

with honest value. People feel good about<br />

Filson. They feel like they are getting their<br />

monies worth and something that will last.<br />

That’s what made it relevant then and what<br />

keeps it relevant now.”<br />

Next year, for the first time Filson will introduce<br />

black Mackinaw wool across the line.<br />

Expanding offerings for women and warm<br />

weather apparel like knit shirts and shorts is<br />

intended to attract a broader audience. Koros<br />

says adding lifestyle apparel will attract more<br />

buyers and give current customers more reasons<br />

to wear Filson other than its outerwear.<br />

“We’re not a brand for everybody. Our price<br />

point isn’t for the mass market. At the end of<br />

the day, it’s a damn good product and people<br />

feel good about wearing it,” says Koros.<br />

Woolrich and Filson may have smaller<br />

booths at the <strong>Outdoor</strong> Retailer Summer<br />

Market show in August than they have in the<br />

past, but both companies say they plan on<br />

being there and being relevant for many years<br />

to come. l<br />

July/August 2011 • outdoor insight • 29


etail<br />

success<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong><br />

Gear<br />

Exchange<br />

Burlington<br />

Vermont<br />

hal Elms, a manufacturer’s rep<br />

with Pinnacle <strong>Outdoor</strong> Group,<br />

calls Burlington, VT, one of the<br />

cornerstone towns in the outdoor<br />

Industry. “Its like Bozeman,<br />

MT, Boulder, CO, or Seattle, WA.<br />

Burlington is a competitive market and lots of<br />

outdoor business gets done there,” reports Elms.<br />

The 16-year old <strong>Outdoor</strong> Gear Exchange<br />

has carved out a successful place in a market<br />

that includes Eastern <strong>Mountain</strong> Sports, Dick’s<br />

Sporting Goods and a handful of specialty bike<br />

and ski shops.<br />

Marc Sherman, OGE’s co-owner, recalls the<br />

inspiration that led to opening the store in 1995.<br />

“A friend and I were out camping. I had too much<br />

gear and he had none. It occurred to us that<br />

might be a situation that was occurring in other<br />

places with other people.”<br />

Working at Vermont Teddy Bear at the time,<br />

they quit their jobs and opened the business.<br />

Right from the start, Sherman did things a little<br />

differently than other outdoor specialty retailers.<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong> Gear Exchange’s first location measured<br />

barely 800-square feet and primarily sold<br />

gear and accessories.” We started selling all offprice<br />

products. We realized people were coming<br />

to us to get a deal on a backpack or whatever<br />

we had in stock as a closeout, second or used,”<br />

explains Sherman. “If they couldn’t find what they<br />

wanted from us at a discount, they were going to<br />

by following<br />

a different path<br />

drive across town to Climb High or EMS and buy<br />

new gear at full price.”<br />

Moving to another location with 4000-square<br />

feet, Sherman added clothing and saw a big bump<br />

in sales. The store also began to sell full-price<br />

gear, accessories and apparel. “We needed to<br />

have what people are looking for. If we can’t get<br />

it off price than we have to get in line product.”<br />

MSR stoves were the first full-price product<br />

sold at OGE. “ After a few years, major manufacturers<br />

started paying attention and offering lines<br />

we didn’t have before,” says Sherman. “We were<br />

the new guys on the scene.”<br />

The business model of selling full-price and offprice<br />

products from the same brand side-by-side<br />

caused some skepticism among outdoor brands.<br />

“Fifteen years ago, I wouldn’t actually open<br />

him as a dealer. I didn’t have a lot of confidence<br />

in that approach,” recalls Elms, with some chagrin.<br />

“I had other dealers in the area protecting<br />

lines. Now they have become one of the largest<br />

retailers in my territory.” Soon, OGE added<br />

<strong>Mountain</strong>smith and Vasque.<br />

Despite the initial skepticism, Sherman never<br />

wavered from that business model. “When we<br />

opened up, some of our vendors warned us<br />

that you are not going to be able to succeed<br />

selling our full-price products right next to the<br />

closeouts we’ve been selling you. We’ve proven<br />

them wrong,” says Sherman. “People expected<br />

that there would be a problem but we’ve never<br />

seen that. We have people shopping for a new<br />

$400 pack next to someone shopping for a $100<br />

used pack. We don’t have any issues with that.<br />

There are people who will buy the newest and the<br />

greatest and others won’t. There are people who<br />

buy new cars, used cars and really old used cars.<br />

We’ve got them all.”<br />

Over the next decade, OGE’s customer base<br />

expanded. Off the cuff, Sherman describes his<br />

customers as 60 percent men and 40 percent<br />

women, from 20-65 years-old. Since Burlington<br />

is a college town, Sherman uses radio, print<br />

and social media advertising to introduce 4000<br />

new customers to the store when classes start<br />

each fall.<br />

“We serve the first timer to a seasoned mountaineer.<br />

We offer a full line of gear and apparel for<br />

outdoor enthusiast,” says Sherman. “To a certain<br />

extent, no body else does what we do. We’re a<br />

core gear shop but also cater to people with lifestyle<br />

clothing needs.”<br />

The store’s product mix serves hikers, backpackers,<br />

trail runners, climbers, backcountry<br />

skiers and is expanding to offer more to paddlers<br />

and family campers. “There is something for<br />

everyone at every price. Suzi Curtis, manufacturer’s<br />

rep for Icebreaker, Haiku, Pistil, Buff. “It<br />

also means the product assortment is constantly<br />

changing so the customer is visiting the store<br />

more than seasonally. It is all about value in this<br />

economic environment.<br />

30 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com<br />

By Lou Dzierzak


OGE Co-owners Marc Sherman<br />

and Mike Donohue on the<br />

climbing wall at their new store.<br />

outdoorinsightmag.com<br />

July/August 2011 • outdoor insight • 31


etail<br />

“It’s that engagement and enthusiasm that brings people back time and time again.”<br />

Over time, <strong>Outdoor</strong> Gear Exchange as earned<br />

the loyalty of many local outdoor enthusiasts.<br />

Some management consultants might talk about<br />

the store’s lifetime customer sales potential but<br />

Sherman has a distinctly different take on what<br />

attracts his customers to OGE. “I feel strongly<br />

that we don’t need everything. I have way too<br />

many backpack, shoes and waterproof shells.<br />

Most of us don’t need more gear. My business is<br />

based on people wanting more gear but we don’t<br />

need it,” says Sherman. “People aren’t coming<br />

in here for something they need but something<br />

they want. If you can tell them what’s there and<br />

get excited about the products they are excited<br />

about they will become engaged. Most important<br />

thing is to have my staff engaged with the consumer<br />

and the activities we are selling products<br />

for. It’s that engagement and enthusiasm that<br />

brings people back time and time again.”<br />

“There’s a market segment that will always<br />

go for the $400 technical jacket. But in these<br />

economic times there are many people who are<br />

willing to buy last year’s gear,” explains Elms.<br />

“One of the ways OGE excels is that the people<br />

who work there are all hardcore users of the<br />

gear and know what they are talking about. The<br />

customers have come to learn that if a product<br />

is in the store it will work for them. Customers<br />

have confidence of what they have in the store.<br />

It’s a real success story.”<br />

Sherman builds the store’s culture by hiring<br />

people who are enthusiasts. “The people we hire<br />

tend to be interested in the products in the first<br />

The store’s product<br />

mix serves hikers,<br />

backpackers, trail<br />

runners, climbers,<br />

backcountry skiers<br />

and is expanding to<br />

offer more to paddlers<br />

and family campers.<br />

place. When new lines come in they are clamoring<br />

to see what’s in the box.”<br />

That passionate is apparent to OGE’s customers<br />

and visitors. “As a rep, OGE is one of my<br />

favorite stores on many levels but the top reason<br />

is the positive vibe you feel when you enter<br />

the store,” says Curtis. “It is not the ‘can I help<br />

you’ from an employee behind a quiet counter,<br />

but instead there is energy and constant movement<br />

throughout: people being fitted for packs,<br />

swapping climbing stories, getting ideas for<br />

their next adventure and of course, a few token<br />

dogs lounging at the front door. You don’t get<br />

the feeling they are just selling you something<br />

but they are creating a fun atmosphere you<br />

want to be a part of.”<br />

In addition to instore clinics from reps, managers<br />

actively train the store’s current 65- employee<br />

staff. Once again, Sherman uses an approach that<br />

reflects his personal management philosophies.<br />

“We spend time training people in sales technique,<br />

I mean information technique. We don’t<br />

sell, we inform,” says Sherman. “We’ve always<br />

emphasize there is generally a lower priced<br />

option to newest and the greatest. For many<br />

people that’s the best option. Our customers<br />

have thanked us time and time again. They get<br />

the help they get informed and we don’t try to<br />

upsell them.”<br />

As the outdoor industry embraced the online<br />

selling, Sherman launched GearX.com. Currently<br />

representing 25 percent of OGE’s revenues,<br />

Sherman predicts the proportion of sales will<br />

reach a 50-50 split between the store and online<br />

operations within a few years.” Fifteen years ago<br />

there wasn’t an online business. Now they are a<br />

leader in that category as well,” says Elm.<br />

Nearing its 16th anniversary, OGE is making<br />

another move, this time to a 44,000-square-foot<br />

location formerly occupied by an Old Navy<br />

store. The new store is located at high-traffic<br />

retail location on Church Street, Burlington’s<br />

busiest shopping avenue.<br />

“Our previous location was off the main street.<br />

People didn’t wander by OGE,” reports Sherman.<br />

“Now we are on a pedestrian mall in the middle<br />

of where everyone is shopping. That opens us to<br />

a new type of customer and we are seeing new<br />

faces. People who didn’t know we existed just<br />

a few blocks away are coming in. Since over 50<br />

percent of our product are not full priced that’s<br />

attractive to walk-in business.”<br />

<strong>Outdoor</strong> Gear Exchange’s long-term success<br />

comes from Sherman’s commitment to a business<br />

model and management style that may not<br />

match the standard retail industry road map.<br />

“Marc Sherman and the other OGE owners, buyers<br />

and managers are professional and love what<br />

they do and it reflects into the staff and the overall<br />

vibe of the store,” says Curtis. “They are also<br />

avid users of all of the products they sell so they<br />

offer the latest and best of what is on the market.<br />

They all speak confidently about what they sell<br />

because they have most likely used the product<br />

themselves the day before. They work hard and<br />

play harder.” l<br />

32 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com


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we give good insight


trend insight<br />

Stand Up<br />

and be<br />

Counted<br />

one of the hottest sports out there, stand up paddleboarding<br />

has surged in just a few short years from a niche fad in a<br />

few coastal communities to a nationwide paddle sports<br />

phenomenon. Once only found in coastal surf shops, stand<br />

ups are now a ubiquitous presence in paddle sport stores<br />

across the entire country. Quickly<br />

climbing the product adoption curve, SUPs firmly<br />

anchored themselves in the early adoption phase<br />

with 5% of all specialty paddle boat sales this April.<br />

With no signs of slowing down, the category looks<br />

poised to make the jump to mass acceptance. Thanks<br />

to an exceptionally proactive industry aggressively<br />

marketing to a brand new and incredibly wide ranging<br />

audience, that acceptance, and accompanying sales,<br />

will come sooner than later.<br />

According to Leisure Trends Group’s Paddle Sport<br />

RetailTRAK, a full 80 percent of all paddle specialty<br />

retailers stocked paddleboards this April, up from just<br />

54 percent a year ago. With so many more specialty<br />

retailers standing up and taking notice, it is no wonder<br />

that specialty SUP unit sales surged 397 percent when<br />

comparing this April to last. Retailers are bullish on<br />

the category, too. At the end of this April, specialty<br />

retailers had 4200 more stand up paddleboards in stock<br />

than they did a year ago, a 145 percent increase. With<br />

so many more paddleboards on-hand, sell-through at<br />

the beginning of this summer selling season stood at a<br />

respectable and, more importantly, sustainable 45 percent.<br />

As with any new and growing category, the innovators now have to share<br />

the marketplace with increasingly competitive fast followers. With at<br />

least 19 brands currently selling into specialty outdoor and paddle retail,<br />

the number of available models and types of paddleboards has exploded.<br />

Unit Sales at <strong>Outdoor</strong><br />

and Paddle Specialty<br />

181<br />

April 2010<br />

Inventory Units at <strong>Outdoor</strong><br />

and Paddle Specialty<br />

2,917<br />

April 2010<br />

Stand Up Paddleboard is a Surging Category<br />

The potential stand up paddler now can choose from recreational, river/<br />

surf, race, fitness, fishing and even inflatable paddleboards. Additionally,<br />

paddleboards are now available at outdoor and sporting goods chains,<br />

online and even mass discounters.<br />

Inevitably, retail selling prices at specialty stores have fallen. Year-to-<br />

April 2011<br />

April 2011<br />

date, the average retail-selling price for a stand up<br />

paddleboard at outdoor and paddle specialty declined<br />

$203, or 16 percent to $1092. That price pressure<br />

also pushed retail margins down four points to an<br />

uninspiring 28 percent. Compare that to recreational<br />

kayaks which maintained a 34 percent margin. On<br />

the bright side, lower retail-selling prices also lower<br />

the barrier to possibly hesitant consumers. Stand<br />

up paddles, retailing for $190 this YTD (down from<br />

$262), saw margins edge up one point to 38 percent.<br />

As the category grows it is essential to remember<br />

that the stand up paddler is a different creature with<br />

unique motivations and lexicon. The smartest retailers<br />

welcome and embrace consumers that place as much<br />

importance on cross-training, core-strength, yoga, zen,<br />

better views, long distance and/or sprint racing as they<br />

do on surf, flat and white water conditions.<br />

The paddle sports industry has done a spectacular<br />

job communicating the joys and benefits of stand<br />

up paddling. Scott Jaeger, senior retail analyst at<br />

Leisure Trends Group, states, “Rarely, in my 12 years<br />

at LTG, have I seen a new sport so well promoted by<br />

manufacturers and retailers alike. With all the demo days, races, events,<br />

rental fleets, and even yoga classes, it is getting harder and harder to find a<br />

lake or beach that doesn’t have someone stand up paddling. I predict that<br />

stand up paddling sales will continue to grow at a rapid pace and quickly<br />

become a full-on, established paddle sports category.” l<br />

trend insight is a feature in <strong>Outdoor</strong> Insight that includes consumer research and retail point-of-sale data from the leisure trends Group. data in this issue’s report<br />

are based off of leisure trends Group’s leisuretrAK® report. the leisuretrAK report is developed from a quarterly poll of 1000 American adults ages 16 and over.<br />

the results are projectable to the u.s. population. With over 20 years of historical data, the leisuretrAK report is the definitive source for information about Americans<br />

at play. For more information on leisure trends Group or its leisuretrAK report contact Julia day at 303-786-7900 ext. 107 or jday@leisuretrends.com. For additional<br />

information on trend insight, contact Jeff nott at 516-305-4711 or jnott@formula4media.com.<br />

34 • outdoor insight • July 2011 outdoorinsightmag.com<br />

901<br />

7,158


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