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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY<br />

FEASIBILITY STUDY FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF A<br />

FAIR TRADE DIAMOND STANDARD AND<br />

CERTIFICATION SYSTEM<br />

By Resource Consulting Services, Limited<br />

For Transfair USA<br />

12 th December 2008


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

About Resource Consulting Services<br />

Resource Consulting Services Limited provides research and advisory services<br />

in developing economies and high risk environments <strong>for</strong> a diverse range <strong>of</strong><br />

clients. We conduct political economy analyses, investigations, including due<br />

diligence, and business sector research. We also provide solutions-oriented<br />

advice in a range <strong>of</strong> sectors, with expertise in mineral governance, ethical<br />

supply chains, minerals certification, conflict resources, securitised<br />

development, CSR, artisanal mining, and community development.<br />

www.resourceglobal.co.uk<br />

The founding directors are Nicholas Garrett, Estelle Levin and Harrison Mitchell.<br />

Authorship<br />

This report was researched and written by Estelle Levin, Harrison Mitchell & Dr. Magnus Macfarlane with<br />

case study contributions from Shawn Blore, Laurent Cartier, & Henry Thompson and editorial and writing<br />

contributions from Fay Warrilow.<br />

Acknowledgements<br />

The authors would like to thank all <strong>the</strong> interviewees and survey respondents, who gave up <strong>the</strong>ir time to<br />

participate in <strong>the</strong> research, as well as <strong>the</strong> staff <strong>of</strong> Transfair and Shauna Alexander Mohr who reviewed<br />

earlier drafts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> report. Particular thanks goes to <strong>the</strong> case study mining organisations which allowed<br />

<strong>the</strong>mselves to be researched and reported on, as well as Caren Holzman <strong>of</strong> Transfair USA, Demos Takoulas<br />

and Anel Laas <strong>of</strong> Vukani Ubuntu, Babar Turay, Liang Wei Zhang, and Richard Wake Walker.<br />

We would also like to thank all <strong>the</strong> various people in Sierra Leone, South Africa, Botswana, India, China,<br />

Guyana and Brazil who <strong>of</strong>fered <strong>the</strong>ir time to improve our understanding, but who were promised<br />

anonymity.<br />

Disclaimer<br />

This report is prepared from sources and data which Resource Consulting Services (RCS) believes to be<br />

reliable, but RCS makes no representation as to its accuracy or completeness. The report is provided <strong>for</strong><br />

in<strong>for</strong>mational purposes and is not to be construed as providing endorsements, representations or<br />

warranties <strong>of</strong> any kind whatsoever. The authors accept no liability <strong>for</strong> any consequences whatsoever <strong>of</strong><br />

pursuing any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> recommendations provided in this report, ei<strong>the</strong>r singularly or altoge<strong>the</strong>r. Opinions and<br />

in<strong>for</strong>mation provided are made as <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> date <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> report issue and are subject to change without notice.<br />

Cover picture: A bulldozer waits in front <strong>of</strong> Tefeya’s ‘Sacred Bush’ in Sierra Leone, © Estelle Levin, 2006.<br />

ii


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

Table <strong>of</strong> Contents<br />

Introduction...............................................................................................................................1<br />

A Typology <strong>of</strong> Producers.............................................................................................................2<br />

Overall <strong>Feasibility</strong>.......................................................................................................................3<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> Producers....................................................................................................................4<br />

Subsistence Artisanal Miners.................................................................................................................................. 4<br />

Micro-Scale Miners ................................................................................................................................................. 4<br />

Small-scale Mining Companies................................................................................................................................ 4<br />

Mid- and Large-scale Mining Companies................................................................................................................. 4<br />

The Cutting and Polishing Sector ................................................................................................5<br />

Supply Chain Models and Pricing Structures ...............................................................................5<br />

Managing Incompatible Supply and Demand..............................................................................6<br />

Developing <strong>the</strong> Standard............................................................................................................7<br />

Potential Partners: Producers.....................................................................................................8<br />

Potential Partners: O<strong>the</strong>r initiatives ...........................................................................................9<br />

Next steps and Key Considerations...........................................................................................10<br />

Endnotes..................................................................................................................................11<br />

iii


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

Acronyms<br />

AMDM<br />

ARM<br />

ASM<br />

BDSVU<br />

BEE<br />

BPP<br />

CASM<br />

CLT<br />

CO-OPEMG<br />

CO-OPERGAC<br />

CO-OPERGADI<br />

C&P<br />

CR<br />

CRJP<br />

CR<br />

CSO<br />

DACDF<br />

D4D<br />

DDI<br />

DFID<br />

DIB<br />

DME<br />

DRC<br />

DTC<br />

EITI<br />

FESS<br />

FLO<br />

FT<br />

FTCS<br />

GDD<br />

GDP<br />

GGDMA<br />

GIA<br />

GJEPC<br />

GoB<br />

GoSL<br />

GW<br />

ICMM<br />

IDMA<br />

IDMP<br />

IFC<br />

ILO<br />

IPEC<br />

IRMA<br />

ISO<br />

JoA<br />

KDWMC<br />

KPCS<br />

LSM<br />

MCDP<br />

MDDWG<br />

MSM<br />

n/a<br />

NGO<br />

MASEU<br />

MCEP<br />

Artisanal and Micro <strong>Diamond</strong> Mining<br />

Alliance <strong>for</strong> Responsible Mining (<strong>for</strong>merly Association <strong>for</strong> Responsible Mining)<br />

Artisanal and Small-scale Mining/Miners (includes artisanal, micro, and small-scale)<br />

Botswana <strong>Diamond</strong> Sorters Valuators Union<br />

Black Economic Empowerment (South Africa)<br />

De Beers’ Best Practice Principles<br />

Communities and Small-scale Mining<br />

Community Liaison Team<br />

Co-operativa de Pequenos e Medios Garimpeiros<br />

Co-operativa de Garimpeiros de Coromandel<br />

Co-operativa de Garimpeiros de Diamantina<br />

Cutting and Polishing<br />

Corporate Responsibility<br />

Council <strong>for</strong> Responsible Jewellery Practices<br />

Corporate Social Responsibility<br />

Civil Society Organisation<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> Area Community <strong>Development</strong> Fund (DACDF)<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong>s <strong>for</strong> <strong>Development</strong> (UNDP programme in Liberia)<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> <strong>Development</strong> Initiative<br />

Department <strong>for</strong> International <strong>Development</strong> (UK)<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> Intelligence Briefs<br />

South African Department <strong>for</strong> Minerals and Energy<br />

Democratic Republic <strong>of</strong> Congo<br />

De Beers’ <strong>Diamond</strong> Trading Company<br />

Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative<br />

Foundation <strong>for</strong> Environmental Security and Sustainability<br />

<strong>Fair</strong>trade Labelling Organisations International<br />

<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />

<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Certification System<br />

Gold and <strong>Diamond</strong> Department (Sierra Leone)<br />

Gross Domestic Product<br />

Guyana Gold and <strong>Diamond</strong> Miners Association (Guyana)<br />

Gemmological Institute <strong>of</strong> America<br />

The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (India)<br />

Government <strong>of</strong> Botswana<br />

Government <strong>of</strong> Sierra Leone<br />

Global Witness<br />

International Council <strong>for</strong> Mining and Metals<br />

International <strong>Diamond</strong> Manufacturers Association<br />

Integrated <strong>Diamond</strong> Management Programme<br />

International Finance Corporation<br />

International Labour Organisation<br />

International Programme on <strong>the</strong> Elimination <strong>of</strong> Child Labour<br />

Initiative <strong>for</strong> Responsible Mining Assurance<br />

International Standards Organisation<br />

Jewelers <strong>of</strong> America<br />

Kono District Women’s Multi-Purpose Cooperative<br />

Kimberley Process Certification Scheme<br />

Large-Scale Mining/Miners<br />

Mwadui Community <strong>Diamond</strong> Partnership<br />

Madison Dialogue <strong>Diamond</strong> Working Group<br />

Medium-scale Mining/Miners<br />

Not Available<br />

Non-Governmental Organisation<br />

Mining and Allied Services Employees Union (Sierra Leone)<br />

Mining Certification Evaluation Project<br />

iv


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

MSI<br />

OECD<br />

PAC<br />

PDA<br />

PWYP<br />

RJC<br />

SAM<br />

SDC<br />

SDT<br />

SSM<br />

UN<br />

UNDP<br />

USAID<br />

VU<br />

WDL<br />

WFDB<br />

WGAAP<br />

Management Systems International<br />

Organisation <strong>for</strong> Economic Co-operation and <strong>Development</strong><br />

Partnership Africa Canada<br />

Peace <strong>Diamond</strong> Alliance<br />

Publish What You Pay<br />

Responsible Jewellery Council (<strong>for</strong>merly CRJP)<br />

Subsistence Artisanal Miners<br />

Sandoh <strong>Development</strong> Corporation<br />

South African State <strong>Diamond</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>r<br />

Small-Scale Mining/Miners<br />

United Nations<br />

United Nations <strong>Development</strong> Programme<br />

United States Agency <strong>for</strong> International <strong>Development</strong><br />

Vukani-Ubuntu<br />

Williamson <strong>Diamond</strong>s Limited<br />

World Federation <strong>of</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Bourses<br />

Working Group on Alluvial and Artisanal Production (Part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> KPCS)<br />

v


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

Glossary<br />

AA1000<br />

Alluvial<br />

Artisanal Mining<br />

Beneficiation<br />

Bourse<br />

Carat<br />

Compaction<br />

Cooperative<br />

Corporate Mining<br />

CRJP Standard<br />

Cutting and Polishing<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong><br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> Intelligence<br />

Brief<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> Pipeline<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> stability field<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong>iferous<br />

Downstream<br />

Diwali<br />

Economic Displacement<br />

Egmont Institute<br />

EITI<br />

Eluvial<br />

Erosion<br />

A series <strong>of</strong> standards improving <strong>the</strong> sustainability per<strong>for</strong>mance and corporate accountability<br />

<strong>of</strong> organisations, developed by AccountAbility<br />

Alluvial diamond deposits have been transported by <strong>the</strong> movement <strong>of</strong> water. They include<br />

<strong>for</strong>mer and present riverbed, riverbank, gravel terraces, and floodplains.<br />

Mining conducted with rudimentary tools such as picks and shovels, usually in<strong>for</strong>mally by<br />

individuals or small groups <strong>of</strong> people on a subsistence basis<br />

The creation <strong>of</strong> ‘added value’ through vertical upstream and downstream economic linkage<br />

activities in supply, distribution, processing and manufacturing<br />

The common term <strong>for</strong> a diamond market<br />

0.2g in weight (<strong>the</strong> standard unit <strong>of</strong> measurement <strong>for</strong> diamonds)<br />

The action or process <strong>of</strong> inducing <strong>the</strong> particles <strong>of</strong> a substance such as soil to combine more<br />

tightly<br />

The International Cooperative Alliance defines a Cooperative as ‘an autonomous<br />

association <strong>of</strong> persons united voluntarily to meet <strong>the</strong>ir common economic, social, and<br />

cultural needs and aspirations through a jointly-owned and democratically-controlled<br />

enterprise’. 1<br />

Mining conducted by a corporate entity, distinguished from ‘artisanal and micro mining’ on<br />

<strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> it being conducted by a <strong>for</strong>mal and highly pr<strong>of</strong>essional organisation<br />

An ethical per<strong>for</strong>mance standard <strong>for</strong> gold and diamond supply chains in development by<br />

<strong>the</strong> Council <strong>for</strong> Responsible Jewellery Practices (now <strong>the</strong> Responsible Jewellery Council)<br />

An inclusive term <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> process with trans<strong>for</strong>ms a rough diamond into a brilliant, cut and<br />

polished jewellery diamond<br />

A natural mineral consisting essentially <strong>of</strong> pure carbon crystallised with a cubic structure in<br />

<strong>the</strong> isometric system. Its hardness in <strong>the</strong> Mohsscale is 10; its specific gravity is<br />

approximately 3.52; it has a refractive index <strong>of</strong> 2.42 and can be found in many colours<br />

An influential newsletter with news and analysis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> diamond industry,<br />

produced by Tacy Ltd.<br />

The diamond supply or value chain, from point <strong>of</strong> production to sorting and/or trade to<br />

manufacture to sorting and/or trade to jewellery manufacture to jewellery retail.<br />

The region in <strong>the</strong> Earth’s upper mantle where <strong>the</strong> pressure and temperature are sufficiently<br />

high (50 kilobars and 1,000 degrees Centigrade) to trans<strong>for</strong>m carbon into diamond<br />

Bearing or yielding diamonds<br />

Referring to activity ‘down’ <strong>the</strong> supply chain beyond production<br />

A major Hindu holiday celebrated in October or November<br />

Defined by <strong>the</strong> IFC per<strong>for</strong>mance standards as ‘loss <strong>of</strong> assets or access to assets that leads to<br />

loss <strong>of</strong> income sources or means <strong>of</strong> livelihood’ 2<br />

Also called <strong>the</strong> Royal Institute <strong>for</strong> International relations, <strong>the</strong> Egmont Institute is an<br />

independent think-tank based in Brussels, which conducts interdisciplinary research on<br />

international relations.<br />

The Extractive Industry Transparency Initiative aims to streng<strong>the</strong>n governance by improving<br />

accountability in <strong>the</strong> extractives sector.<br />

Eluvial deposits have been transported by <strong>the</strong> movement <strong>of</strong> soil<br />

The carrying away or displacement <strong>of</strong> solids such as rock or soil, by agents <strong>of</strong> currents such<br />

as wind or water<br />

vi


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

ETI<br />

An alliance <strong>of</strong> companies, NGOs and trade union organisations which aims to promote and<br />

improve <strong>the</strong> implementation <strong>of</strong> corporate codes <strong>of</strong> practice which cover supply chain<br />

working conditions<br />

FLO Contract Production This standard aims to enable unorganised or in<strong>for</strong>mal small producers join <strong>Fair</strong>trade<br />

Standard<br />

through a partnership with an intermediary organisation which is able and willing to<br />

contribute to <strong>the</strong>ir social and economic development.<br />

FLO Generic Standards<br />

The <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standards by which all producers must be audited to receive <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />

certification. They aim to protect workers’ rights and <strong>the</strong> environment, and ensure proper<br />

management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong>trade premium.<br />

FLO Hired Labour Standard This Standard was developed to certify plantations in order to bring benefits to plantation<br />

workers. This Standard is applicable to companies where <strong>the</strong> workers are organised (e.g.<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is a union or equivalent) and <strong>the</strong> company is prepared to promote <strong>the</strong> workers’<br />

development and share <strong>the</strong> additional <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> revenues with <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

FLO Small Farmer Standard This Standard is oriented at producers ‘that are not structurally dependent on permanent<br />

hired labour, managing <strong>the</strong>ir farm mainly with <strong>the</strong>ir own and <strong>the</strong>ir family’s labour-<strong>for</strong>ce.’ 3<br />

Garimpeiro<br />

Global Compact<br />

The term <strong>for</strong> an artisanal or micro-miner in Brazil<br />

The UN Global Compact is a strategic policy initiative <strong>for</strong> businesses that are committed to<br />

aligning <strong>the</strong>ir operations and strategies with ten universally accepted principles in <strong>the</strong> areas<br />

<strong>of</strong> human rights, labour, environment and anti-corruption<br />

Global Sullivan Principles A set <strong>of</strong> principles to advance a development framework that enables businesses <strong>of</strong> all sizes<br />

and in all sectors to pursue <strong>the</strong>ir business objectives while being mindful and respectful <strong>of</strong><br />

employees and <strong>the</strong> communities in which <strong>the</strong>y operate<br />

GRI Reporting Guidelines Guidelines <strong>for</strong> reporting on an organisation’s sustainability per<strong>for</strong>mance<br />

IFC Per<strong>for</strong>mance Standards The International Finance Corporation’s environmental and social standards are designed<br />

to minimize impact on <strong>the</strong> environment and on affected communities<br />

ILO Conventions<br />

International Labour Organisation’s conventions on labour conditions<br />

Internal Safeguard Policies World Bank Policies <strong>for</strong> use by World Bank staff to ensure <strong>the</strong>ir development interventions<br />

do not harm <strong>the</strong> environment or vulnerable groups.<br />

IRMA Standards<br />

ISO 14000 series<br />

ISO 9000 series<br />

Joint Body<br />

Joint venture<br />

Junior Mining Company<br />

Kimberlite<br />

Kimberlite pipes<br />

Madison Dialogue<br />

Standards developed by <strong>the</strong> Initiative <strong>for</strong> Responsible Mining Assurance to be used as a<br />

voluntary system <strong>for</strong> independently verifying a mine’s compliance with environmental,<br />

human rights and social standards<br />

The International Organisation <strong>for</strong> Standardisation’s family <strong>of</strong> standards <strong>for</strong> Environmental<br />

Management<br />

The International Organisation <strong>for</strong> Standardisation’s family <strong>of</strong> standards <strong>for</strong> quality<br />

assurance<br />

The Joint Body is a committee whose sole purpose is to decide how <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> social<br />

premiums should be spent. The Joint Body is made up <strong>of</strong> democratically-elected worker<br />

representatives and representatives <strong>of</strong> management; workers hold <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> votes.<br />

The social premium is intended <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> benefit <strong>of</strong> workers and <strong>the</strong>ir communities.<br />

A contractual agreement joining toge<strong>the</strong>r two or more parties <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> executing<br />

a particular business undertaking<br />

A junior mining company does not derive its capital from <strong>the</strong> sale <strong>of</strong> its commodities, but<br />

raises it on <strong>the</strong> stock market to support its exploration and mine development activities.<br />

A type <strong>of</strong> s<strong>of</strong>t, potassic volcanic rock best known as <strong>the</strong> substrate <strong>for</strong> diamonds; usually<br />

grey-green in colour and crumbly in consistency<br />

Typically cone shaped occurrences <strong>of</strong> kimberlite, where most diamonds are found today<br />

A cross-sector initiative established to promote communication and collaboration among<br />

companies, civil society groups and o<strong>the</strong>rs seeking to encourage best practices, sustainable<br />

vii


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

Manufacturing<br />

Mechanised Mining<br />

Medium-scale mining<br />

Micro mining (general)<br />

economic development, and verified sources <strong>of</strong> responsible gold, diamonds and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

minerals<br />

The process <strong>of</strong> cutting and polishing a diamond<br />

The use <strong>of</strong> machinery ei<strong>the</strong>r to remove or shift earth to obtain access to diamond bearing<br />

rock or gravel and/or to ‘wash’ <strong>the</strong> crushed rock or gravel<br />

A corporate mine, typically with assets exceeding US$100m, and an annual throughput <strong>of</strong><br />

ore exceeding 100,000 tonnes. The definition may vary according to country legislation.<br />

Organised diamond mining on a small scale, such as with cooperatives or miners’<br />

associations; typically with assets up to several hundred thousand US dollars.<br />

OECD Guidelines <strong>for</strong> Voluntary principles and standards <strong>for</strong> responsible business conduct covering employment<br />

Multinational Enterprises and industrial relations, human rights, environment, in<strong>for</strong>mation disclosure, combating<br />

bribery, consumer interests, science and technology, competition, and taxation.<br />

Overburden<br />

Points<br />

Producer<br />

Promoting Body<br />

Rap Sheet<br />

Rough<br />

Run-<strong>of</strong>-mine<br />

SA8000<br />

Sight holders<br />

Sights<br />

Sluice box<br />

Material, such as soil, which lies above <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> economic interest<br />

0.01 carat = 1 point, 100 points make up 1 carat<br />

A producer (miner) <strong>of</strong> diamonds<br />

The promoting body is <strong>the</strong> organisation which, under <strong>the</strong> Contract Production standard, is a<br />

legally registered entity which works locally with <strong>the</strong> unorganised or in<strong>for</strong>mal producers<br />

and takes on <strong>the</strong> responsibility <strong>for</strong> helping <strong>the</strong> producers ‘reach a level <strong>of</strong> organisation over<br />

time that is able to comply with’ one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r Generic Standards 4 .<br />

A wholesale price list <strong>for</strong> rough diamonds produced by <strong>the</strong> Rapaport Group<br />

Rough diamond(s)<br />

All diamonds from a particular mine<br />

A global social accountability standard <strong>for</strong> decent working conditions, developed and<br />

overseen by Social Accountability International (SAI)<br />

An exclusive group <strong>of</strong> preferred buyers <strong>of</strong> diamonds from De Beers<br />

Where Sight Holders view <strong>the</strong> diamonds <strong>of</strong>fered <strong>for</strong> sale by De Beers<br />

An elongated wooden or metal trough with riffles, down which alluvial gravel is washed to<br />

recover gold or diamonds (gravity separation)<br />

Standard Zero<br />

Standard Zero ‘is a set <strong>of</strong> draft principles and standards produced by a technical committee<br />

under <strong>the</strong> coordination <strong>of</strong> [ARM] … They are an adaptation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> FLO standards <strong>for</strong> small<br />

producers to <strong>the</strong> situation <strong>of</strong> artisanal and small scale mining (ASM), and <strong>the</strong>re<strong>for</strong>e follow<br />

<strong>the</strong> characteristic <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> grouping <strong>of</strong> social, economic, labour and environmental<br />

development standards. It also includes standards <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>rs <strong>of</strong> gold and associated<br />

silver and platinum.’ 5<br />

Upstream (supply chain) Towards <strong>the</strong> point <strong>of</strong> extraction <strong>of</strong> diamonds<br />

Voluntary Principles on A set <strong>of</strong> voluntary principles to guide companies in maintaining <strong>the</strong> safety and security <strong>of</strong><br />

Security & Human Rights <strong>the</strong>ir operations within an operating framework that ensures respect <strong>for</strong> human rights and<br />

fundamental freedoms<br />

viii


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

INTRODUCTION<br />

Since <strong>the</strong> problem <strong>of</strong> conflict diamonds emerged in <strong>the</strong> late 1990s, <strong>the</strong> diamond industry and o<strong>the</strong>r industry<br />

stakeholders have engaged a number <strong>of</strong> strategies to verify diamond supply chains. Chief among <strong>the</strong>se was <strong>the</strong> launch<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kimberley Process Certification Scheme <strong>for</strong> Rough <strong>Diamond</strong>s (KPCS), which sought to eliminate <strong>the</strong> trade in<br />

conflict diamonds. The KPCS has made a number <strong>of</strong> significant steps towards <strong>for</strong>malising and improving transparency<br />

in and oversight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> diamond trade, particularly <strong>the</strong> trade in artisanally mined rough diamonds.<br />

With many policy makers, industry experts and observers perceiving, correctly or not, that <strong>the</strong> most significant conflict<br />

diamond issues have been largely addressed by <strong>the</strong> KPCS, <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> assuring <strong>the</strong> ethical integrity <strong>of</strong> diamonds has<br />

evolved to o<strong>the</strong>r concerns, most especially labour and human rights issues. No longer content with <strong>the</strong> unitary brand<br />

that is ‘diamond’ in and <strong>of</strong> itself and keen to distinguish <strong>the</strong>ir diamonds on <strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir naturalness, quality, and<br />

social and environmental credentials, multinational diamond industry leaders are spearheading this shift within <strong>the</strong><br />

diamond industry through <strong>the</strong>ir own diamond branding initiatives. At <strong>the</strong> same time, NGO voices continue to<br />

campaign on <strong>the</strong> industry’s development challenges, emphasising that diamond mining and processing, and artisanal<br />

mining in particular, are still associated with hazardous conditions; exploitative labour; child labour; gender<br />

discrimination; ecological destruction; environmental health risks; and social and economic malaise within <strong>the</strong><br />

communities in which <strong>the</strong>y operate.<br />

In step with this broad-based momentum to address development issues in <strong>the</strong> diamond sector and given <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s<br />

current successes in o<strong>the</strong>r commodities and thus potential to actively help address <strong>the</strong>se issues, Transfair USA, with<br />

funding from <strong>the</strong> Tiffany Foundation, commissioned <strong>the</strong> present study to assess <strong>the</strong> feasibility and desirability <strong>of</strong><br />

developing a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard and Certification system <strong>for</strong> diamonds.<br />

The goal <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> is to ‘empower farmers and workers to lift <strong>the</strong>mselves out <strong>of</strong> poverty by investing in <strong>the</strong>ir farms<br />

and communities, protecting <strong>the</strong> environment, and developing <strong>the</strong> business skills necessary to compete in <strong>the</strong> global<br />

marketplace’ 6 . <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Principles include a fair price, fair labour conditions, direct trade, democratic and<br />

transparent organisations, community development and environmental sustainability 7 . The report’s aim is to assess<br />

whe<strong>the</strong>r and how <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certification could deliver on this goal and <strong>the</strong>se principles within <strong>the</strong> diamond industry.<br />

Transfair USA commissioned two reports as part <strong>of</strong> this overall. Shauna Alexander-Mohr assessed industry needs and<br />

expectations in order to market polished <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds at <strong>the</strong> point <strong>of</strong> retail 8 . Her key conclusions were 9 :<br />

• The industry is open to <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s collaboration in tackling its major development issues, particularly in<br />

relation to supply chain integrity and artisanal mining, through a market-based solution;<br />

• <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> should partner with existing industry ef<strong>for</strong>ts in this area, which involve individuals who “possess<br />

prodigious knowledge about every aspect <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> industry” and are <strong>the</strong> “industry leaders from top brands and<br />

leading NGOs” 10 .<br />

• The branding and marketing context <strong>for</strong> jewellery is substantially different from <strong>the</strong> agricultural products that<br />

<strong>for</strong>m <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s current base, as jewellery is not an every day investment and is <strong>of</strong>ten “well-contemplated”<br />

and “charged with emotion” 11 .<br />

• The “notion <strong>of</strong> a ‘diamond brand’ is a powerful <strong>for</strong>ce” and is “part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reason <strong>the</strong> industry came toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

quickly to address conflict diamonds” 12 . Thus:<br />

o <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> “should be prepared to be a supporting brand, not a co-brand, <strong>for</strong> diamond jewelry” as<br />

many retailers would not seek to discriminate between <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> and non-<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> products in<br />

<strong>the</strong> store, but would provide in<strong>for</strong>mation only if asked by <strong>the</strong> customer, “ ‘like a Woolmark label on<br />

an Armani suit’” 13 .<br />

o Negative marketing would not be tolerated as ‘casting doubt on one diamond is casting doubt on all<br />

diamonds’ 14 .<br />

• The industry is interested in <strong>the</strong> possibility <strong>of</strong> buying and selling <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds – but whe<strong>the</strong>r or not<br />

<strong>the</strong>y actually do purchase <strong>the</strong>m will depend on <strong>the</strong> volume <strong>of</strong> available supply and diamond quality, size and<br />

price, and on <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s ability to break ground in risky territory where no one has yet succeeded: verifying<br />

a porous and complex global supply chain from mine to display case.<br />

By Resource Consulting Services<br />

1


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

• The industry is fast-moving and ef<strong>for</strong>ts are moving <strong>for</strong>ward quickly. If FT wants to play a role it must launch<br />

swiftly.<br />

The second phase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> research, conducted by RCS Limited and reported below, assesses <strong>the</strong> downstream segments<br />

<strong>of</strong> diamond mining, rough trading, and manufacturing at all geographies and scales 15 . Specifically, it sought to<br />

determine <strong>the</strong> feasibility and desirability <strong>of</strong> certifying diamonds as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>, bearing in mind <strong>the</strong> geography and<br />

political economy <strong>of</strong> production, trade, and manufacture; <strong>the</strong> capacity <strong>of</strong> producer organisations to participate; how<br />

to ensure supply chain integrity; <strong>the</strong> ability <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> to deliver development benefits to miners and <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

communities; <strong>the</strong> possible role <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> in <strong>the</strong> context <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r initiatives; key issues <strong>for</strong> standard development;<br />

and potential pilot sites.<br />

Work began at <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> 2008 16 . The research involved literature review, stakeholder consultation and observation<br />

through field work, interviews, participation in industry events and conferences 17 . Field trips were to South Africa,<br />

Sierra Leone and China, and desk-based case studies were conducted based on associates’ prior research in Botswana,<br />

Brazil, Guyana, and India. Five main research questions were asked <strong>of</strong> each case study organisation: is <strong>the</strong>re a business<br />

case <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> engagement from <strong>the</strong> perspectives <strong>of</strong> Transfair/FLO and <strong>the</strong> producer? Is <strong>the</strong>re a development<br />

case? Does <strong>the</strong> organisation have adequate capacity to engage? What are <strong>the</strong> contextual challenges? The research<br />

also looked at general feasibility, asking similar questions concerning <strong>the</strong> general global business and development<br />

cases <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond standard, and examining contextual challenges. It asked whe<strong>the</strong>r producer and<br />

manufacturing organisations have <strong>the</strong> capacity to produce <strong>the</strong> right type and quantity <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds<br />

demanded by retailers, and whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>re are potential opportunities <strong>for</strong> synergies and partnerships with existing<br />

initiatives.<br />

A TYPOLOGY OF PRODUCERS<br />

Typologies <strong>of</strong> producers and manufacturers were developed to ensure consistency <strong>of</strong> interpretation across <strong>the</strong> case<br />

studies and analysis. This divided producers into six groups on <strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> levels <strong>of</strong> organisation, <strong>for</strong>malisation and<br />

legality, ownership structure, and motivation as <strong>the</strong>se important distinctions will determine how <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> can and<br />

should engage in order to ensure it is benefitting <strong>the</strong> target group. See Table One 18 .<br />

Table One: A Typology <strong>of</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Producers, Part One<br />

Type <strong>of</strong> Organisation<br />

1. Subsistence artisanal<br />

miners<br />

Level <strong>of</strong><br />

Organisation<br />

Individuals<br />

Limited<br />

organisation<br />

(family groups,<br />

small gangs)<br />

19 Organised<br />

2. Micro-mining<br />

artisanal miners<br />

3. Locally owned<br />

small-scale mining<br />

companies / mines<br />

4. Foreign owned<br />

small-scale mining<br />

companies / mines<br />

5. Medium-scale mining<br />

companies / mines<br />

6. Large-scale mining<br />

companies / mines<br />

Organised<br />

Organised<br />

Organised<br />

Organised<br />

Level <strong>of</strong><br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essionalism<br />

In<strong>for</strong>mal, Illegal<br />

Unpr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

In<strong>for</strong>mal, illegal<br />

Formal, Legal<br />

Semi-pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

Formal, Legal<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

Formal, Legal<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

corporate<br />

Formal, Legal<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

corporate<br />

Formal, Legal<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

corporate<br />

Owner-operator<br />

or hired labour<br />

Owner operator<br />

Supported labour<br />

Some casual hired<br />

labour<br />

Owner operator<br />

Supported labour<br />

Some hired labour<br />

Certificate<br />

holder<br />

Promoting<br />

Body (NGO,<br />

trader, etc.)<br />

Organisation<br />

Hired labour Mine Pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />

Hired labour Mine Pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />

Hired labour Mine Pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />

Owner’s<br />

Motivation<br />

Survival /<br />

Subsistence<br />

Survival /<br />

Subsistence<br />

Hired labour Mine Pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />

By Resource Consulting Services<br />

2


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

Table One: A Typology <strong>of</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Producers, Part Two<br />

Type <strong>of</strong> Organisation Capital Technology<br />

Assets


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

DIAMOND PRODUCERS<br />

SUBSISTENCE ARTISANAL MINERS<br />

Unorganised Subsistence Artisanal Miners (SAM) is not an appropriate sector <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> engagement in <strong>the</strong> shortterm<br />

due to <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> infrastructure at <strong>the</strong> business and development levels. Engagement with SAM would require<br />

<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> to find a body (NGO, exporter or buyer) ei<strong>the</strong>r to function as a buyer from a number <strong>of</strong> artisanal producers<br />

or to organise <strong>the</strong> miners. In relation to <strong>the</strong> first option, <strong>the</strong> difficulties include finding <strong>the</strong> right organisation, verifying<br />

<strong>the</strong> origin and legality <strong>of</strong> rough diamonds, auditing <strong>the</strong> activities <strong>of</strong> scores <strong>of</strong> individuals or small groups, and<br />

successfully entering buying markets given <strong>the</strong> cultures and risks <strong>of</strong> diamond buying in many countries. For example,<br />

building trust with miners and political authorities, providing ad-hoc ‘relief’ to <strong>the</strong> miners, and occasionally financing<br />

production are all hugely important in ensuring access to supply. On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, attempting to organise SAM into<br />

functional institutions has not been done successfully <strong>for</strong> diamonds (yet) 24 . Yet, if <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> wishes to benefit this<br />

most vulnerable group <strong>of</strong> miners, <strong>the</strong>n organising <strong>the</strong>m would be vital.<br />

MICRO-SCALE MINERS<br />

<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> business opportunities to engage with this sector are many, as miners are <strong>of</strong>ten looking <strong>for</strong> investment,<br />

assistance in improving productivity, and improved access to markets: <strong>the</strong>y need capitalisation. Yet, this sector is also<br />

relatively high risk and canny investors have lost money engaging with it 25 . Inadequate supply also means that,<br />

without <strong>the</strong> security <strong>of</strong> supply af<strong>for</strong>ded by a larger operator, partnerships with many micro-scale mining organisations<br />

would be necessary, increasing <strong>the</strong> costs <strong>of</strong> capacity building and oversight. However, development opportunities in<br />

this sector are substantial. These producers face many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> development issues present in artisanal mining<br />

communities. They are well embedded in <strong>the</strong> local community and many operate, or have ambitions to operate local<br />

development programs.<br />

<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could adopt a progressive approach to manage <strong>the</strong> risks <strong>of</strong> engaging with <strong>the</strong>se producer organisations. For<br />

example, some combine diamond mining with o<strong>the</strong>r economic activities. <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could engage with those that<br />

produce agricultural products and gold and use <strong>the</strong>se as ‘trial’ <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> commodities to build Cooperative values and<br />

functionality, be<strong>for</strong>e attempting <strong>the</strong> riskier business <strong>of</strong> diamond production.<br />

SMALL-SCALE MINING COMPANIES<br />

SSM companies enjoy some significant advantages over micro-miners from a business perspective. Most significant<br />

are <strong>the</strong>ir relatively watertight and captured supply chains, which reduce opportunities <strong>for</strong> interference, and <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

ability to produce more diamonds. SSM also have a greater social and environmental impact, which can be a good or a<br />

bad thing. This is especially <strong>the</strong> case <strong>for</strong> locally-owned SSM, whose owners will invest a greater proportion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>its in <strong>the</strong> local and national economies than <strong>for</strong>eign-owned SSM 26 . From <strong>the</strong> SSM perspective, <strong>the</strong>re are pros and<br />

cons to working with <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>. The con is that <strong>the</strong>y tend to be less capitalised than LSM and so may find a hired<br />

labour standard costly and a burden. The pros, however, are that in this sense, <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could up <strong>the</strong> business case<br />

<strong>for</strong> SSM by helping <strong>the</strong>m access finance and secure buyers on <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir participation in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />

partnership. Their involvement with <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could also act as a type <strong>of</strong> guarantee to host governments <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir CR<br />

credentials, and so improve <strong>the</strong>ir competitiveness in securing desirable concessions. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, compared to microminers,<br />

<strong>the</strong> higher pr<strong>of</strong>ile <strong>of</strong> SSM within <strong>the</strong> local community requires a process <strong>of</strong> continual engagement to maintain<br />

good relations. <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could help with this and enhance community benefits through its <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> premium<br />

framework <strong>for</strong> ensuring community development in a way that is properly democratic and inclusive.<br />

MID- AND LARGE-SCALE MINING COMPANIES<br />

From a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> perspective, <strong>the</strong> business case is simply <strong>the</strong> potential supply from <strong>the</strong>se companies. Practically<br />

speaking, large-scale mines would have to be assessed and assured on a mine-by-mine basis, i.e. it is <strong>the</strong> Ekati mine,<br />

By Resource Consulting Services<br />

4


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

not BHP Billiton’s <strong>Diamond</strong> Arm that would be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified. However, <strong>the</strong>re is <strong>the</strong> potential <strong>of</strong> oversupply in<br />

fact, and, based on a number <strong>of</strong> key stakeholders’ shared view, <strong>the</strong>re are reputational risks <strong>for</strong> FLO in certifying this<br />

sector’s diamonds ei<strong>the</strong>r at all and certainly be<strong>for</strong>e artisanal or small-scale organisations are certified.<br />

The development case <strong>for</strong> engagement rests on <strong>the</strong> companies’ potential impact, and <strong>the</strong> additional empowerment<br />

benefit <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> structures would <strong>of</strong>fer both workers and communities beyond <strong>the</strong> CR frameworks <strong>the</strong>se companies<br />

already use. As partners and not development beneficiaries, <strong>the</strong>re must also be a business case from <strong>the</strong> perspective<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> parent mine or company. The general business case <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong>m has already been exemplified by <strong>the</strong> ef<strong>for</strong>ts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s biggest diamond companies to implement voluntary standards and CR strategies across all <strong>the</strong>ir major mining,<br />

sorting, sight-holder and manufacturing operations, and consequently to develop <strong>the</strong>ir own ‘brands’ to assure<br />

consumers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir ethical status. These standards and strategies cover a comprehensive scope <strong>of</strong> requirements,<br />

including many found in <strong>the</strong> FLO Hired Labour standard. They do not, however, all address <strong>the</strong> same issues and <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are certainly some gaps between <strong>the</strong>se and <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s Hired Labour requirements, including <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s particular<br />

(and empowering) premium redistribution mechanism. Also, <strong>the</strong>y tend to be assured by second party auditors<br />

commissioned by <strong>the</strong> companies. Co-branding with <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could help raise <strong>the</strong> value <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se industry brands by<br />

making clear to consumers a greater independence in assurance and superior attention to <strong>the</strong> protection <strong>of</strong><br />

vulnerable groups and <strong>the</strong> delivery <strong>of</strong> development benefits. If <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> decides that engaging with this sector is<br />

necessary or desirable, <strong>the</strong>n advocacy may be required to encourage <strong>the</strong>ir involvement.<br />

THE CUTTING AND POLISHING SECTOR<br />

From <strong>the</strong> manufacturer’s perspective, <strong>the</strong> business case to cut and polish <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds is strong as it would not<br />

mean many adaptations, especially in <strong>the</strong> <strong>for</strong>mal, pr<strong>of</strong>essional sector, as many factories are accustomed to existing<br />

assurance systems. However, <strong>the</strong>re must be a commercial incentive in terms <strong>of</strong> greater competitiveness or income in<br />

return <strong>for</strong> participation. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>the</strong> factors that influence <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> production (US$ per carat) must be<br />

managed. To keep this as low as possible <strong>for</strong> any size <strong>of</strong> stone, and as a strategy <strong>for</strong> ensuring manufacturer interest,<br />

<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> will have to guarantee a regular supply <strong>of</strong> rough <strong>of</strong> sufficient quantity and appropriate size and quality.<br />

The decision on which manufacturers to work with depends upon <strong>the</strong> objectives <strong>of</strong> engagement with this supply chain<br />

segment, namely risk mitigation or development optimisation. If <strong>the</strong> principal objective is risk mitigation, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong><br />

highly organised, modern diamond processing units that use laser, semi-automated/automated, and planning<br />

technologies would be most suitable. Here, labour relations are fairly good, <strong>the</strong> diamonds are well tracked, and <strong>the</strong><br />

implementation <strong>of</strong> auditable requirements should not be so difficult. These factories could be part <strong>of</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />

supply chain as licensed operators without needing to develop a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard <strong>for</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Manufacturers.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, if <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> prioritised <strong>the</strong> provision <strong>of</strong> development benefits to manufacturers as a condition <strong>for</strong><br />

engagement, <strong>the</strong>n this would mean seeking ways to work with cottage manufacturers where more vulnerable<br />

individuals get work but where <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> production is lower, diamond tracking is less sophisticated, and labour<br />

issues are more serious. This would require actually developing a full <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard <strong>for</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Manufacturers.<br />

Based on stakeholders’ responses, this is <strong>the</strong> preferred option, and <strong>the</strong>re would be reputational issues <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> in<br />

not developing a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard <strong>for</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Manufacturers which rigorously assures process and production<br />

methods and associated management systems, whilst directly attempting to tackle some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sector’s development<br />

issues. Indeed, overall, it is clear from <strong>the</strong> health and safety problems in small-scale factories in India, <strong>the</strong> pressurised<br />

environment induced by Botswanan factories’ ‘incentive structures’, and <strong>the</strong> extant development-oriented and black<br />

empowerment practices <strong>of</strong> South Africa’s case study manufacturers, that <strong>the</strong>re is much to be achieved in this supply<br />

chain segment in terms <strong>of</strong> development through empowerment and protection <strong>of</strong> vulnerable groups.<br />

SUPPLY CHAIN MODELS AND PRICING STRUCTURES<br />

A breach in <strong>the</strong> supply chain was considered a serious threat to <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certification, according to survey<br />

respondents. This is a particular threat with micro and small scale operators. However, <strong>the</strong>se challenges are not<br />

By Resource Consulting Services<br />

5


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

insurmountable if due consideration is given to checks and balances in <strong>the</strong> system. Maintaining supply chain integrity<br />

at <strong>the</strong> point <strong>of</strong> manufacture will involve appropriate contractual terms, adapting requirements that encompass <strong>the</strong><br />

specific realities <strong>of</strong> each unit, building trust, and ensuring transparency. But perhaps more important is that a <strong>Fair</strong><br />

<strong>Trade</strong> certification scheme seeks to build long term partnerships with producers and o<strong>the</strong>r actors that are based on<br />

mutual trust, benefit, and loyalty.<br />

The report presented a number <strong>of</strong> examples <strong>of</strong> supply chain models and partnerships which are currently in operation<br />

in <strong>the</strong> diamond sector. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most viable ways to get a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond to market, is through vertically<br />

integrated supply chains, if large-scale mines and multinational diamond corporations participated in certification,<br />

and partially integrated supply chains <strong>for</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r coalitions <strong>of</strong> miners and buyers.<br />

MINES ROUGH TRADE/ MANUFACTURING POLISHED TRADE/ JEWELLERS<br />

SORTING<br />

SORTING<br />

One possible supply chain model currently used by Target Resources to Tiffany & Co., and De Beers to Finesse<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong>s<br />

There may be a place <strong>for</strong> an ‘ethical agent’ to directly insert <strong>the</strong>mselves into <strong>the</strong> supply chain to act as a dedicated<br />

buyer <strong>of</strong> diamonds from <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> mines, outsourcing C&P, and <strong>the</strong>n sorting and selling <strong>the</strong> diamonds to <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />

Jewellery Manufacturers with a view to facilitating this process ra<strong>the</strong>r than maximising pr<strong>of</strong>it 27 . The advantages are<br />

that it would help ensure greater control <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> chain <strong>of</strong> custody from mine to market and a portion <strong>of</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>its could be<br />

directly set aside <strong>for</strong> investment in bringing more mining organisations to compliance.<br />

In order to establish a fair price, it will be necessary to design a procedure <strong>for</strong> pricing <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds. This will<br />

need to be done by specialists alongside standard development.<br />

MANAGING INCOMPATIBLE SUPPLY AND DEMAND<br />

A serious complicating factor in making functioning, commercially viable supply chains is <strong>the</strong> possible incompatibility<br />

between <strong>the</strong> types <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds produced and those demanded by <strong>the</strong> market. This has implications <strong>for</strong><br />

what types <strong>of</strong> producer and manufacturers should be brought on board from a purely commercial standpoint.<br />

Alexander-Mohr indicated that <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> consumers would likely be from “<strong>the</strong> bridal market” 28 , which means that<br />

better stones would be demanded. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, marketing study respondents indicated that certifying anything<br />

under 10 or 25 points would be cost ineffective 29 . Yet <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> producers would benefit most from selling run-<strong>of</strong>mine,<br />

which means <strong>the</strong>re would be a large proportion <strong>of</strong> small, and semi-gem and industrial diamonds to deal with.<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> quality and quantity were generally poor in most micro-scale case study organisations researched.<br />

In terms <strong>of</strong> manufacturing, pr<strong>of</strong>essional factories with higher costs tend to specialise in larger, better quality stones, as<br />

<strong>the</strong>y cannot glean a sufficient margin from <strong>the</strong> smaller stones as <strong>the</strong> cottage industry can. This suits <strong>the</strong> potential<br />

market, but not <strong>the</strong> potential supply. The ideal situation from <strong>the</strong> producers’ perspective would be that <strong>the</strong>y could sell<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir semi-gems as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>, and <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> manufacturers could manufacture <strong>the</strong>m economically, to provide a <strong>Fair</strong><br />

<strong>Trade</strong> market <strong>for</strong>, say, melee or fashion jewellery. However, ensuring <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> production is adequately low to keep<br />

<strong>the</strong>se diamonds competitive at ultimate retail point, whilst ensuring <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> requirements are met, would be<br />

challenging. In <strong>the</strong> short-term, if scoping studies confirm this preliminary conclusion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> likely quality <strong>of</strong> supply from<br />

<strong>the</strong> micro-producers, <strong>the</strong>n certifying a larger organisation to ensure consistency and appropriate quality <strong>of</strong> supply<br />

would seemingly be necessary to even enable a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> supply chain to exist.<br />

By Resource Consulting Services<br />

6


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

DEVELOPING THE STANDARD<br />

In any <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> supply chain, it is likely only <strong>the</strong> mine and possibly <strong>the</strong> manufacturer would be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified.<br />

For <strong>the</strong> sake <strong>of</strong> ensuring <strong>the</strong> integrity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> chain <strong>of</strong> custody and use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> label, all o<strong>the</strong>r supply chain<br />

operators would have to be audited and licensed as compliant with requirements set by FLO or FLO-Cert.<br />

We recommend universal principles <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds across all scales and geographies so as to maintain a<br />

universal meaning as to what goals a ‘<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond’ delivers on. However, we believe <strong>the</strong> requirements must be<br />

tailored to <strong>the</strong> differing capacities, realities and challenges <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> different types <strong>of</strong> operator, and differing ownership<br />

and decision-making structures at <strong>the</strong> different scales, in order to be achievable and productive. We <strong>the</strong>re<strong>for</strong>e<br />

recommend developing three standards based on scale:<br />

1. A Subsistence Miners’ Standard. It will not be possible <strong>for</strong> SAM to be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified as it is fundamental<br />

that <strong>the</strong> producer organisation be an organised, legal entity. However, <strong>the</strong>se are <strong>the</strong> most vulnerable<br />

producers who could benefit most from <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> arrangements. FLO’s Contract Labour standard provides a<br />

route <strong>for</strong> in<strong>for</strong>mal, unorganised producers to produce a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified product whilst <strong>the</strong>y organise,<br />

<strong>for</strong>malise, and build <strong>the</strong>ir capacity to comply with <strong>the</strong> Small Farmer Standard. Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, <strong>the</strong> absence or<br />

extremely limited choice <strong>of</strong> suitable Promoting Bodies in all countries investigated may mean that <strong>the</strong><br />

capacity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Promoting Body would have to be built first, even be<strong>for</strong>e <strong>the</strong> capacity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> miners could be<br />

attended to. This is not a short-term, or cheap, solution. Thus we think a Subsistence Miners’ Standard, based<br />

on FLO’s Contract Labour standard, could be developed in <strong>the</strong> mid-term.<br />

2. A Micro-scale Mining Organisations’ Standard. This would need extra requirements <strong>for</strong> hired labour<br />

(permanent and temporary), but would be based on FLO’s Small Farmer Standard and ARM’s Standard Zero,<br />

which adapts FLO’s Small Farmer Standard <strong>for</strong> artisanal gold miners 30 .<br />

3. A Corporate Mining Organisations’ Standard, <strong>for</strong> small-scale, mid- and large scale private and joint-venture<br />

mines. This would be based on FLO’s Hired Labour Standard, but would include requirements <strong>for</strong> local<br />

employment and management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Premium in <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> Joint Ventures. It would also take<br />

reference from CRJP’s and IRMA’s Standards in particular, which pull toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> principles and<br />

requirements <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> industry’s multiple CR standards, as set out below. If it is determined that developed<br />

country producers are <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> eligible <strong>for</strong> this product, we would recommend that a Technical Committee<br />

consider carefully <strong>the</strong> differing developmental potentials and operational risks <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> producers and<br />

vulnerabilities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mine communities in <strong>the</strong>se different contexts be<strong>for</strong>e deciding whe<strong>the</strong>r or not it would<br />

indeed be more fair to make requirements <strong>for</strong> mid- to large-scale producers in developed countries more<br />

rigorous or even different than <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir counterparts in developing countries.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> Cutting & Polishing level, we would recommend that Transfair develop <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Manufacturers’ Rules to<br />

allow factories be able to be licensed as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Manufacturers in <strong>the</strong> first instance, with a view to developing a <strong>Fair</strong><br />

<strong>Trade</strong> Cutting & Polishing Standard <strong>for</strong> achieving empowerment and development objectives in <strong>the</strong> medium-term. At<br />

<strong>the</strong> practical level, it is <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional factories that will be <strong>the</strong> first to be licensed. However, and in line with <strong>the</strong><br />

desires <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> stakeholders, it is recommended that any <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard developed <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Cutting &<br />

Polishing Level be oriented at <strong>the</strong> cottage industry segment too, where <strong>the</strong> empowerment impacts would likely be<br />

greater and <strong>the</strong> type <strong>of</strong> producer is more in line with <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> tradition.<br />

There will also need to be Rules <strong>for</strong> Rough and Polished Buyers to enable <strong>the</strong>m to be licensed as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Buyers.<br />

Supplementary requirements may need to be specified <strong>for</strong> different types <strong>of</strong> trading, e.g. free trade at auctions and<br />

bourses vs. pre-arranged contracted trade.<br />

By Resource Consulting Services<br />

7


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

POTENTIAL PARTNERS: PRODUCERS<br />

The report includes a number <strong>of</strong> case studies <strong>of</strong> potential partners in <strong>the</strong> production <strong>of</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond including<br />

cooperatives from South America and Sierra Leone, and businesses from South Africa, Botswana and Tanzania, and<br />

discusses <strong>the</strong> pros and cons <strong>of</strong> working with each respective organisation reviewed in terms <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> business case,<br />

development case, feasibility, key issues & risks, and time-frame <strong>for</strong> engagement. Some key observations and<br />

conclusions are:<br />

• Generally:<br />

o Good prospecting and proper cost benefit analyses are vital be<strong>for</strong>e a decision is made to engage a<br />

mining organisation as a potential <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> producer.<br />

o Importance <strong>of</strong> building trust and loyalty within <strong>the</strong> organisation and between <strong>the</strong> organisation and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> actors, including <strong>the</strong> buyer.<br />

o It is easy to raise hope and expectations amongst miners and mineworkers; initial engagement<br />

should be cautious and respectful <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> potential <strong>for</strong> people to plan <strong>the</strong>ir lives around a belief that<br />

<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> will come. <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> will also have to deal with cynicism from miners who have had<br />

expectations dashed previously by development or ethical buying interventions.<br />

• Guyana:<br />

o Guyana’s Subsistence Artisanal Miners (SAM) could reach <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certifiable standards with<br />

relatively little ef<strong>for</strong>t, save <strong>for</strong> those which relate to organisation.<br />

o The lack <strong>of</strong> institutionalisation <strong>of</strong> Guayanese mining gangs and <strong>the</strong> illegality <strong>of</strong> miners suggests that<br />

<strong>the</strong> FLO Contract Production Standard is <strong>the</strong> only suitable model <strong>for</strong> engagement. Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, <strong>the</strong><br />

lack <strong>of</strong> a suitable local partner makes this unworkable in <strong>the</strong> short term.<br />

o It is not clear that <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could contribute to fairer financing as miners are not financed by<br />

dealers and so are free to shop <strong>the</strong>ir diamonds around. Financial backers have an interest in seeing<br />

that miners receive as much as possible <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> diamonds as <strong>the</strong>ir share depends on this price too.<br />

There would need to be o<strong>the</strong>r incentives <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> miners to decide that <strong>the</strong>y want to be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />

Producers.<br />

o Smuggling <strong>of</strong> Venezuelan diamonds into Guyana and <strong>the</strong> inability to ensure a relatively closed chain<br />

<strong>of</strong> custody would make it extremely difficult to prevent laundering <strong>of</strong> Venezuelan diamonds through<br />

<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> supply chains.<br />

• Brazil:<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

The business case <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> is fairly good, with <strong>the</strong> Brazilian cooperatives demonstrating good<br />

management and good production (including large and valuable gems).<br />

The mechanised cooperatives are keen to market members’ diamonds directly to international<br />

buyers, suggesting a predisposition to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> concept.<br />

The use <strong>of</strong> hired labour but small size <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> operational units means that <strong>the</strong> certification system<br />

would need to accommodate hired labour in a way that would ensure <strong>the</strong> miners receive adequate<br />

protection and benefits, without being overly bureaucratic.<br />

• Sierra Leone:<br />

o The viability <strong>of</strong> building micro-scale <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> production in Sierra Leone is threatened by<br />

dematerialisation <strong>of</strong> traditional diamond producing areas and <strong>the</strong> consequential increase in cost <strong>of</strong><br />

production.<br />

o Concerted and ongoing training in business and operational management and democratic<br />

governance will be crucial to ensure producers are pr<strong>of</strong>itable and <strong>the</strong> distribution <strong>of</strong> benefits is fair.<br />

o The chances <strong>of</strong> successful engagement can be enhanced by engaging with cooperatives that have<br />

successfully participated in o<strong>the</strong>r programmes, such as FESS’s land reclamation project 31 .<br />

o In light <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> failings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> PDA cooperatives scheme 32 , <strong>the</strong> cooperatives’ work in mining gold and<br />

agriculture could provide a useful opportunity to do a phased approach to producing <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />

diamonds as a risk management strategy. These organisations could become <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified <strong>for</strong><br />

gold or cash crops as a route to promoting <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> to <strong>the</strong>m, ensuring <strong>the</strong>ir loyalty to <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>Fair</strong><br />

<strong>Trade</strong> partners and each o<strong>the</strong>r, and proving <strong>the</strong>ir ability to function as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> producers be<strong>for</strong>e<br />

taking <strong>the</strong> much riskier and more expensive step <strong>of</strong> initiating <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond mining operations.<br />

By Resource Consulting Services<br />

8


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

o<br />

o<br />

Sandoh <strong>Development</strong> Corporation (SDC), which is a joint venture between Milestone Trading (Target<br />

Resources, plc) and <strong>the</strong> local chiefdom, could be a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> pilot project. However, <strong>the</strong> implications<br />

<strong>of</strong> operating under <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> principles would need to be entirely understood by <strong>the</strong> chiefdom<br />

partners so that <strong>the</strong>ir willingness to engage could be confirmed.<br />

SDC supplies Tiffany & Co., so this could be an interesting partially integrated model supply chain.<br />

• South Africa<br />

o There is potential <strong>for</strong> a complete South African FT supply chain through a number <strong>of</strong> manufacturers.<br />

o Potential supply is very large, but <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> production from micro-scale producers is seemingly<br />

poor. A larger operation would need to be brought on board to make in-country <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> supply<br />

chains viable.<br />

o There is potential to operate through a tender house to auction <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds to buyers.<br />

o <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> is already successful in <strong>the</strong> agricultural and horticultural sectors. Miners could learn from<br />

<strong>the</strong>se farmers’ experiences.<br />

o Black Economic Empowerment in South Africa can serve as a useful basis <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> promotion <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong><br />

<strong>Trade</strong> in South Africa.<br />

• Tanzania<br />

o The Mwadui Community <strong>Diamond</strong> Partnership (MCDP) was still in <strong>the</strong> planning phase and<br />

community engagement phase when De Beers sold its share in <strong>the</strong> Williamson <strong>Diamond</strong> Mine to<br />

Petra <strong>Diamond</strong>s in September 2008 33 . The future <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Partnership is uncertain.<br />

o Should Petra not take <strong>for</strong>ward <strong>the</strong> mantle, it may be possible <strong>for</strong> a local NGO to advance <strong>the</strong> project<br />

with external support, acting as a promoting body to ensure <strong>the</strong> MCDP’s objectives are realised.<br />

o The development <strong>of</strong> a standard <strong>for</strong> SAM might be necessary <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certification <strong>of</strong> Mwadui<br />

diamonds until <strong>the</strong>re were micro-scale organisations who could fulfil <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> requirements.<br />

o If <strong>the</strong> MCDP retains <strong>the</strong> support <strong>of</strong> Williamson <strong>Diamond</strong>s Limited and proves successful, it has<br />

potential not only to be a participant in a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Scheme, but to be a model project in how to<br />

organise SAM to be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> micro-producers.<br />

• Botswana<br />

o Debswana could comply quickly.<br />

o As it is a joint venture with <strong>the</strong> Government <strong>of</strong> Botswana, it may be challenging to do <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> with<br />

Debswama as <strong>the</strong> Joint Body mechanism is designed to benefit workers and local communities. In<br />

keeping with standard practice in <strong>the</strong> industry, <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> corporate mining organisations might<br />

integrate workers’ representatives, company management, and community representatives into <strong>the</strong><br />

Joint Body.<br />

o As <strong>the</strong> research was conducted remotely, <strong>the</strong> interest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> owners in participating is not known.<br />

POTENTIAL PARTNERS: OTHER INITIATIVES<br />

There is a range <strong>of</strong> initiatives within <strong>the</strong> ‘ethical’ diamond sector spanning <strong>the</strong> interests <strong>of</strong> civil society, government<br />

and business, ranging from on-<strong>the</strong>-ground sustainable development projects to global councils <strong>for</strong> developing<br />

assurance standards. <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> standard development should build on lessons learned from <strong>the</strong>se initiatives’<br />

successes and failures, and avoid duplication <strong>of</strong> existing ef<strong>for</strong>ts by integrating with <strong>the</strong>se where possible 34 .<br />

Key organisations with whom <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> should build alliances are DDI, CASM, and ARM <strong>for</strong> working with artisanal and<br />

micro-miners, and CRJP and IRMA <strong>for</strong> working with corporate miners. The DDI has many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major industry<br />

stakeholders on its board or in its advisory committee, and is held by <strong>the</strong>m to be <strong>the</strong> principal institution <strong>for</strong> tackling<br />

development issues in <strong>the</strong> diamond sector, particularly relating to <strong>the</strong> artisanal segment. Close collaboration with DDI<br />

is advised if key players are to be supportive and not view <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s ef<strong>for</strong>ts as duplication.<br />

CRJP and IRMA have developed industry standards <strong>for</strong> assuring <strong>the</strong> ethical per<strong>for</strong>mance <strong>of</strong> large-scale diamond<br />

producers and manufacturers. FLO could improve <strong>the</strong>ir development impact through <strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> an<br />

‘empowerment’ component to append to <strong>the</strong>se standards to allow producers to use <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> label on <strong>the</strong><br />

product. This component would focus on control <strong>of</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Premium and protection and fuller inclusion <strong>of</strong><br />

vulnerable stakeholders.<br />

By Resource Consulting Services<br />

9


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

NEXT STEPS AND KEY CONSIDERATIONS<br />

So what are <strong>the</strong> next steps and key considerations, should <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> take <strong>the</strong> decision to go ahead with a diamond<br />

certification system?<br />

Key actions are:<br />

• Develop a business case and advocacy strategy <strong>for</strong> corporate miners, if working at this level is deemed<br />

desirable.<br />

• Develop draft standards <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Certified Producers, and <strong>the</strong> necessary supporting Supplements.<br />

• Develop Rules <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Licensed Manufacturers and Buyers.<br />

• Develop a Manufacturers’ standard in <strong>the</strong> mid-term.<br />

• Conduct scoping studies to identify potential pilot sites including, and in addition to, those identified herein.<br />

Include fuller capacity assessments <strong>of</strong> producer organisations, and cost-benefit analyses based on proven<br />

productivity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> land, cost <strong>of</strong> production, quality and volume <strong>of</strong> production, contextual challenges.<br />

• Establish a team <strong>of</strong> specialists to define how <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Price and Premium should be<br />

determined.<br />

In all cases, key considerations are:<br />

• Recognise <strong>the</strong> ‘lootability’ and extra ‘corruptability’ potential <strong>of</strong> diamonds given <strong>the</strong> huge value that<br />

something so small and concealable can have 35 . Acknowledge that this lootability means that <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> will<br />

need to have a greater presence on <strong>the</strong> ground <strong>for</strong> monitoring diamond producers, especially at <strong>the</strong><br />

subsistence and micro-scales and especially during <strong>the</strong> washing seasons, <strong>for</strong> a more extended period <strong>of</strong> than<br />

that a typical agricultural certification process may require.<br />

• Recognise <strong>the</strong> greater financial risk posed by diamond mining ventures as opposed to gold mining and<br />

agriculture; a strategy <strong>for</strong> managing financial risk is essential, through, <strong>for</strong> example, proper prospecting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

land, ensuring legal title is obtained <strong>for</strong> a sufficient length <strong>of</strong> time, providing training in business<br />

management, and so on.<br />

• The development potential <strong>of</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond supply chain will be generally determined by <strong>the</strong> type<br />

<strong>of</strong> mine and <strong>the</strong> supply chain model pursued. Different models have different ownership structures, which<br />

create different opportunities and paths <strong>for</strong> empowerment, in particular, and vest control in different<br />

decision-makers in terms <strong>of</strong> how <strong>the</strong>se opportunities are navigated. Thinking about <strong>the</strong> supply chains in <strong>the</strong>se<br />

terms can help ensure optimal development benefits are delivered.<br />

• Incorporate lessons learned from o<strong>the</strong>r initiatives in <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> and in <strong>the</strong> diamond industry<br />

o Embrace an adaptive management approach to increasing <strong>the</strong> commercial viability <strong>of</strong> micro-and<br />

small producers, to allow <strong>for</strong> inevitable failures and set-backs.<br />

o Develop a long term strategy in recognition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> distance that many micro-producers will need to<br />

travel to be productive and functional organisations.<br />

• Consider how to remedy any incompatibilities between producers’ and manufacturers’ supply and capacity<br />

potentials and needs.<br />

Certifying a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond is feasible and <strong>the</strong>re is a strong case to make that it can be a successful business<br />

model, as well as a positive <strong>for</strong>ce <strong>for</strong> development within <strong>the</strong> sector. However, obtaining adequate quality and<br />

quantity <strong>of</strong> supply, keeping <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> production to competitive levels, ensuring <strong>the</strong> backing <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> industry-at-large,<br />

and finding micro and small-scale partners who are able to come to compliance quickly will be <strong>the</strong> main challenges in<br />

bringing <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified diamonds to market. Given <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s proven record in benefitting millions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s farmers, it may be <strong>the</strong> first system that could indeed invert <strong>the</strong> wretched resource curse into a resource cure<br />

that brings dignity and development to <strong>the</strong> world’s diamond miners and communities.<br />

By Resource Consulting Services<br />

10


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

ENDNOTES<br />

1 ICA 2008.<br />

2 IFC Per<strong>for</strong>mance Standard 5, p. 18.<br />

3 FLO 2007b.<br />

4 FLO 2005.<br />

5 ARM 2007.<br />

6 http://www.transfairusa.org/content/about/overview.php, Accessed 23 rd November, 2008.<br />

7 http://www.transfairusa.org/content/about/overview.php, Accessed 23 rd November, 2008.<br />

8 Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />

9 Paraphrased from Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />

10 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 2.<br />

11 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 2-3.<br />

12 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 3.<br />

13 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 3.<br />

14 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 3.<br />

15 The research was designed in consultation with Alexander-Mohr, who was concluding her study as RCS began, so enabling RCS to<br />

consider some <strong>of</strong> her findings.<br />

16 The principal research team was Estelle Levin and Harrison Mitchell <strong>of</strong> RCS Ltd., and Senior Associate, Dr. Magnus Macfarlane.<br />

Some case studies were done by Shawn Blore (Guyana, Brazil), Laurent Cartier (India), and Henry Thompson (Botswana Cutting and<br />

Polishing). Editorial and writing contributions were given by Fay Warrilow, and statistical support was given by Alex Neumuller.<br />

Harrison Mitchell undertook Field Trips to Sierra Leone, South Africa and China. Dr. Macfarlane was responsible <strong>for</strong> LSM desk-work,<br />

Mwadui Case <strong>Study</strong>, and quality control. Estelle Levin was team leader. In total, over 100 people were interviewed or surveyed in<br />

<strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> doing <strong>the</strong> research.<br />

17 Various analytical and data collection tools were designed and employed and are presented as annexes to <strong>the</strong> report.<br />

18 Marine diamond mining and nationalised diamond operators were not considered.<br />

19 The ‘micro-mining’ sector here refers to artisanal, but organized, operations that work in a number <strong>of</strong> different <strong>for</strong>ms specific to<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir geographies and environments. Micro producers are distinguished from artisanal miners on <strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir operations being<br />

more mechanised, capital intensive, organised and altoge<strong>the</strong>r more pr<strong>of</strong>essional. None<strong>the</strong>less, where <strong>the</strong> report speaks <strong>of</strong><br />

‘artisanal miners’ it also includes those miners who may own or mine <strong>for</strong> micro producer organisations. Small-scale mines are<br />

distinguished from micro-mines given <strong>the</strong>ir greater pr<strong>of</strong>essionalism, capitalisation, and production capacity.<br />

20 Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />

21 Alexander-Mohr judged that a moderate increase in price <strong>of</strong> 5-10% is all <strong>the</strong> market could endure, (2008, pp. 5-6).<br />

22 A proviso, <strong>of</strong> course, is that <strong>the</strong> small or medium-scale producer would have to demonstrate a clear development case and be an<br />

appropriate partner based on <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> principles and objectives.<br />

23 However, <strong>the</strong>re is a danger in developing countries <strong>of</strong> creating enclaves <strong>of</strong> privilege around mines, which participate in<br />

certification schemes, and this could create conflict (Anonymous participant at BGR pre-conference workshop on Certified Trading<br />

Chains in Mineral Production at Fatal Transaction’s and BICC’s conference, Private Companies and Emerging Economies in Zones <strong>of</strong><br />

Conflict, Bonn, Germany, 20 th November, 2008. With regard to developed countries, a development case could be argued to work<br />

with large-scale mines which impact indigenous groups, where <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s involvement could demonstrably empower <strong>the</strong>se<br />

groups. <strong>Diamond</strong> mining in Canada, Australia and Russia impacts on Indigenous Peoples. See Crate, 2008; Roberts, 2007; Hookimaw<br />

2008; Rio Tinto, 2008c.<br />

24 The exception here may be <strong>the</strong> ef<strong>for</strong>ts by <strong>the</strong> Groupe d’Appui aux Exploitants des Ressources Naturelles (GAERN) in DRC, which<br />

has been attempted to organise and support fifteen artisanal diamond Cooperatives since 2005. It is perhaps too early to judge in<br />

what ways <strong>the</strong>ir ef<strong>for</strong>ts have or have not been successful, but more attention is merited. (Hund, 2008).<br />

25 Cf. Levin & Gberie, 2006; Levin with Turay, 2008; Mitchell, Garrett & Levin, 2008.<br />

26 For general discussion on this point, see Auty, 1993.<br />

27 In partnership with <strong>the</strong> Shell Foundation, M&S has done such a thing to enable it to source from small cotton farmers in India.<br />

See Killigan, 2008.<br />

28 Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />

29 Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />

11


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />

<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />

30 See glossary. Note that ARM’s standard <strong>for</strong> artisanal gold would make an excellent starting point given <strong>the</strong> extensive consultation<br />

<strong>the</strong>y have done over a <strong>the</strong>re year period with artisanal and micro-miners, government <strong>of</strong>ficials, local authoritie, consultants, and<br />

academics.<br />

31 See www.fess-global.org/tiffany.cfm#MainBody<br />

32 See Levin with Turay, 2008; MSI, 2007; Temple, 2007; Tutushaus et al., 2007.<br />

33 De Beers and Petra <strong>Diamond</strong>s, 2008.<br />

34 For example, many have concentrated on <strong>the</strong> cooperative model. Evidence suggests that cooperatives are certainly viable, but<br />

must be carefully adapted from existing local structures and be developed with careful controls and a lot <strong>of</strong> capacity-building<br />

support if <strong>the</strong>y are not to fail. See Levin with Turay, Blore, 2008; Vlassenroot & Van Bockstael, 2008. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, prospecting and<br />

proper cost-benefit analyses are required to prevent commercial failure.<br />

35 Lujala et al., 2003; Le Billon, 2007; Reno, 1995.<br />

12

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