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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY<br />
FEASIBILITY STUDY FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF A<br />
FAIR TRADE DIAMOND STANDARD AND<br />
CERTIFICATION SYSTEM<br />
By Resource Consulting Services, Limited<br />
For Transfair USA<br />
12 th December 2008
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
About Resource Consulting Services<br />
Resource Consulting Services Limited provides research and advisory services<br />
in developing economies and high risk environments <strong>for</strong> a diverse range <strong>of</strong><br />
clients. We conduct political economy analyses, investigations, including due<br />
diligence, and business sector research. We also provide solutions-oriented<br />
advice in a range <strong>of</strong> sectors, with expertise in mineral governance, ethical<br />
supply chains, minerals certification, conflict resources, securitised<br />
development, CSR, artisanal mining, and community development.<br />
www.resourceglobal.co.uk<br />
The founding directors are Nicholas Garrett, Estelle Levin and Harrison Mitchell.<br />
Authorship<br />
This report was researched and written by Estelle Levin, Harrison Mitchell & Dr. Magnus Macfarlane with<br />
case study contributions from Shawn Blore, Laurent Cartier, & Henry Thompson and editorial and writing<br />
contributions from Fay Warrilow.<br />
Acknowledgements<br />
The authors would like to thank all <strong>the</strong> interviewees and survey respondents, who gave up <strong>the</strong>ir time to<br />
participate in <strong>the</strong> research, as well as <strong>the</strong> staff <strong>of</strong> Transfair and Shauna Alexander Mohr who reviewed<br />
earlier drafts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> report. Particular thanks goes to <strong>the</strong> case study mining organisations which allowed<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves to be researched and reported on, as well as Caren Holzman <strong>of</strong> Transfair USA, Demos Takoulas<br />
and Anel Laas <strong>of</strong> Vukani Ubuntu, Babar Turay, Liang Wei Zhang, and Richard Wake Walker.<br />
We would also like to thank all <strong>the</strong> various people in Sierra Leone, South Africa, Botswana, India, China,<br />
Guyana and Brazil who <strong>of</strong>fered <strong>the</strong>ir time to improve our understanding, but who were promised<br />
anonymity.<br />
Disclaimer<br />
This report is prepared from sources and data which Resource Consulting Services (RCS) believes to be<br />
reliable, but RCS makes no representation as to its accuracy or completeness. The report is provided <strong>for</strong><br />
in<strong>for</strong>mational purposes and is not to be construed as providing endorsements, representations or<br />
warranties <strong>of</strong> any kind whatsoever. The authors accept no liability <strong>for</strong> any consequences whatsoever <strong>of</strong><br />
pursuing any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> recommendations provided in this report, ei<strong>the</strong>r singularly or altoge<strong>the</strong>r. Opinions and<br />
in<strong>for</strong>mation provided are made as <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> date <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> report issue and are subject to change without notice.<br />
Cover picture: A bulldozer waits in front <strong>of</strong> Tefeya’s ‘Sacred Bush’ in Sierra Leone, © Estelle Levin, 2006.<br />
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
Table <strong>of</strong> Contents<br />
Introduction...............................................................................................................................1<br />
A Typology <strong>of</strong> Producers.............................................................................................................2<br />
Overall <strong>Feasibility</strong>.......................................................................................................................3<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong> Producers....................................................................................................................4<br />
Subsistence Artisanal Miners.................................................................................................................................. 4<br />
Micro-Scale Miners ................................................................................................................................................. 4<br />
Small-scale Mining Companies................................................................................................................................ 4<br />
Mid- and Large-scale Mining Companies................................................................................................................. 4<br />
The Cutting and Polishing Sector ................................................................................................5<br />
Supply Chain Models and Pricing Structures ...............................................................................5<br />
Managing Incompatible Supply and Demand..............................................................................6<br />
Developing <strong>the</strong> Standard............................................................................................................7<br />
Potential Partners: Producers.....................................................................................................8<br />
Potential Partners: O<strong>the</strong>r initiatives ...........................................................................................9<br />
Next steps and Key Considerations...........................................................................................10<br />
Endnotes..................................................................................................................................11<br />
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
Acronyms<br />
AMDM<br />
ARM<br />
ASM<br />
BDSVU<br />
BEE<br />
BPP<br />
CASM<br />
CLT<br />
CO-OPEMG<br />
CO-OPERGAC<br />
CO-OPERGADI<br />
C&P<br />
CR<br />
CRJP<br />
CR<br />
CSO<br />
DACDF<br />
D4D<br />
DDI<br />
DFID<br />
DIB<br />
DME<br />
DRC<br />
DTC<br />
EITI<br />
FESS<br />
FLO<br />
FT<br />
FTCS<br />
GDD<br />
GDP<br />
GGDMA<br />
GIA<br />
GJEPC<br />
GoB<br />
GoSL<br />
GW<br />
ICMM<br />
IDMA<br />
IDMP<br />
IFC<br />
ILO<br />
IPEC<br />
IRMA<br />
ISO<br />
JoA<br />
KDWMC<br />
KPCS<br />
LSM<br />
MCDP<br />
MDDWG<br />
MSM<br />
n/a<br />
NGO<br />
MASEU<br />
MCEP<br />
Artisanal and Micro <strong>Diamond</strong> Mining<br />
Alliance <strong>for</strong> Responsible Mining (<strong>for</strong>merly Association <strong>for</strong> Responsible Mining)<br />
Artisanal and Small-scale Mining/Miners (includes artisanal, micro, and small-scale)<br />
Botswana <strong>Diamond</strong> Sorters Valuators Union<br />
Black Economic Empowerment (South Africa)<br />
De Beers’ Best Practice Principles<br />
Communities and Small-scale Mining<br />
Community Liaison Team<br />
Co-operativa de Pequenos e Medios Garimpeiros<br />
Co-operativa de Garimpeiros de Coromandel<br />
Co-operativa de Garimpeiros de Diamantina<br />
Cutting and Polishing<br />
Corporate Responsibility<br />
Council <strong>for</strong> Responsible Jewellery Practices<br />
Corporate Social Responsibility<br />
Civil Society Organisation<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong> Area Community <strong>Development</strong> Fund (DACDF)<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong>s <strong>for</strong> <strong>Development</strong> (UNDP programme in Liberia)<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong> <strong>Development</strong> Initiative<br />
Department <strong>for</strong> International <strong>Development</strong> (UK)<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong> Intelligence Briefs<br />
South African Department <strong>for</strong> Minerals and Energy<br />
Democratic Republic <strong>of</strong> Congo<br />
De Beers’ <strong>Diamond</strong> Trading Company<br />
Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative<br />
Foundation <strong>for</strong> Environmental Security and Sustainability<br />
<strong>Fair</strong>trade Labelling Organisations International<br />
<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />
<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Certification System<br />
Gold and <strong>Diamond</strong> Department (Sierra Leone)<br />
Gross Domestic Product<br />
Guyana Gold and <strong>Diamond</strong> Miners Association (Guyana)<br />
Gemmological Institute <strong>of</strong> America<br />
The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (India)<br />
Government <strong>of</strong> Botswana<br />
Government <strong>of</strong> Sierra Leone<br />
Global Witness<br />
International Council <strong>for</strong> Mining and Metals<br />
International <strong>Diamond</strong> Manufacturers Association<br />
Integrated <strong>Diamond</strong> Management Programme<br />
International Finance Corporation<br />
International Labour Organisation<br />
International Programme on <strong>the</strong> Elimination <strong>of</strong> Child Labour<br />
Initiative <strong>for</strong> Responsible Mining Assurance<br />
International Standards Organisation<br />
Jewelers <strong>of</strong> America<br />
Kono District Women’s Multi-Purpose Cooperative<br />
Kimberley Process Certification Scheme<br />
Large-Scale Mining/Miners<br />
Mwadui Community <strong>Diamond</strong> Partnership<br />
Madison Dialogue <strong>Diamond</strong> Working Group<br />
Medium-scale Mining/Miners<br />
Not Available<br />
Non-Governmental Organisation<br />
Mining and Allied Services Employees Union (Sierra Leone)<br />
Mining Certification Evaluation Project<br />
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
MSI<br />
OECD<br />
PAC<br />
PDA<br />
PWYP<br />
RJC<br />
SAM<br />
SDC<br />
SDT<br />
SSM<br />
UN<br />
UNDP<br />
USAID<br />
VU<br />
WDL<br />
WFDB<br />
WGAAP<br />
Management Systems International<br />
Organisation <strong>for</strong> Economic Co-operation and <strong>Development</strong><br />
Partnership Africa Canada<br />
Peace <strong>Diamond</strong> Alliance<br />
Publish What You Pay<br />
Responsible Jewellery Council (<strong>for</strong>merly CRJP)<br />
Subsistence Artisanal Miners<br />
Sandoh <strong>Development</strong> Corporation<br />
South African State <strong>Diamond</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>r<br />
Small-Scale Mining/Miners<br />
United Nations<br />
United Nations <strong>Development</strong> Programme<br />
United States Agency <strong>for</strong> International <strong>Development</strong><br />
Vukani-Ubuntu<br />
Williamson <strong>Diamond</strong>s Limited<br />
World Federation <strong>of</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Bourses<br />
Working Group on Alluvial and Artisanal Production (Part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> KPCS)<br />
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
Glossary<br />
AA1000<br />
Alluvial<br />
Artisanal Mining<br />
Beneficiation<br />
Bourse<br />
Carat<br />
Compaction<br />
Cooperative<br />
Corporate Mining<br />
CRJP Standard<br />
Cutting and Polishing<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong><br />
<strong>Diamond</strong> Intelligence<br />
Brief<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong> Pipeline<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong> stability field<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong>iferous<br />
Downstream<br />
Diwali<br />
Economic Displacement<br />
Egmont Institute<br />
EITI<br />
Eluvial<br />
Erosion<br />
A series <strong>of</strong> standards improving <strong>the</strong> sustainability per<strong>for</strong>mance and corporate accountability<br />
<strong>of</strong> organisations, developed by AccountAbility<br />
Alluvial diamond deposits have been transported by <strong>the</strong> movement <strong>of</strong> water. They include<br />
<strong>for</strong>mer and present riverbed, riverbank, gravel terraces, and floodplains.<br />
Mining conducted with rudimentary tools such as picks and shovels, usually in<strong>for</strong>mally by<br />
individuals or small groups <strong>of</strong> people on a subsistence basis<br />
The creation <strong>of</strong> ‘added value’ through vertical upstream and downstream economic linkage<br />
activities in supply, distribution, processing and manufacturing<br />
The common term <strong>for</strong> a diamond market<br />
0.2g in weight (<strong>the</strong> standard unit <strong>of</strong> measurement <strong>for</strong> diamonds)<br />
The action or process <strong>of</strong> inducing <strong>the</strong> particles <strong>of</strong> a substance such as soil to combine more<br />
tightly<br />
The International Cooperative Alliance defines a Cooperative as ‘an autonomous<br />
association <strong>of</strong> persons united voluntarily to meet <strong>the</strong>ir common economic, social, and<br />
cultural needs and aspirations through a jointly-owned and democratically-controlled<br />
enterprise’. 1<br />
Mining conducted by a corporate entity, distinguished from ‘artisanal and micro mining’ on<br />
<strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> it being conducted by a <strong>for</strong>mal and highly pr<strong>of</strong>essional organisation<br />
An ethical per<strong>for</strong>mance standard <strong>for</strong> gold and diamond supply chains in development by<br />
<strong>the</strong> Council <strong>for</strong> Responsible Jewellery Practices (now <strong>the</strong> Responsible Jewellery Council)<br />
An inclusive term <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> process with trans<strong>for</strong>ms a rough diamond into a brilliant, cut and<br />
polished jewellery diamond<br />
A natural mineral consisting essentially <strong>of</strong> pure carbon crystallised with a cubic structure in<br />
<strong>the</strong> isometric system. Its hardness in <strong>the</strong> Mohsscale is 10; its specific gravity is<br />
approximately 3.52; it has a refractive index <strong>of</strong> 2.42 and can be found in many colours<br />
An influential newsletter with news and analysis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> diamond industry,<br />
produced by Tacy Ltd.<br />
The diamond supply or value chain, from point <strong>of</strong> production to sorting and/or trade to<br />
manufacture to sorting and/or trade to jewellery manufacture to jewellery retail.<br />
The region in <strong>the</strong> Earth’s upper mantle where <strong>the</strong> pressure and temperature are sufficiently<br />
high (50 kilobars and 1,000 degrees Centigrade) to trans<strong>for</strong>m carbon into diamond<br />
Bearing or yielding diamonds<br />
Referring to activity ‘down’ <strong>the</strong> supply chain beyond production<br />
A major Hindu holiday celebrated in October or November<br />
Defined by <strong>the</strong> IFC per<strong>for</strong>mance standards as ‘loss <strong>of</strong> assets or access to assets that leads to<br />
loss <strong>of</strong> income sources or means <strong>of</strong> livelihood’ 2<br />
Also called <strong>the</strong> Royal Institute <strong>for</strong> International relations, <strong>the</strong> Egmont Institute is an<br />
independent think-tank based in Brussels, which conducts interdisciplinary research on<br />
international relations.<br />
The Extractive Industry Transparency Initiative aims to streng<strong>the</strong>n governance by improving<br />
accountability in <strong>the</strong> extractives sector.<br />
Eluvial deposits have been transported by <strong>the</strong> movement <strong>of</strong> soil<br />
The carrying away or displacement <strong>of</strong> solids such as rock or soil, by agents <strong>of</strong> currents such<br />
as wind or water<br />
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
ETI<br />
An alliance <strong>of</strong> companies, NGOs and trade union organisations which aims to promote and<br />
improve <strong>the</strong> implementation <strong>of</strong> corporate codes <strong>of</strong> practice which cover supply chain<br />
working conditions<br />
FLO Contract Production This standard aims to enable unorganised or in<strong>for</strong>mal small producers join <strong>Fair</strong>trade<br />
Standard<br />
through a partnership with an intermediary organisation which is able and willing to<br />
contribute to <strong>the</strong>ir social and economic development.<br />
FLO Generic Standards<br />
The <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standards by which all producers must be audited to receive <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />
certification. They aim to protect workers’ rights and <strong>the</strong> environment, and ensure proper<br />
management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong>trade premium.<br />
FLO Hired Labour Standard This Standard was developed to certify plantations in order to bring benefits to plantation<br />
workers. This Standard is applicable to companies where <strong>the</strong> workers are organised (e.g.<br />
<strong>the</strong>re is a union or equivalent) and <strong>the</strong> company is prepared to promote <strong>the</strong> workers’<br />
development and share <strong>the</strong> additional <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> revenues with <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
FLO Small Farmer Standard This Standard is oriented at producers ‘that are not structurally dependent on permanent<br />
hired labour, managing <strong>the</strong>ir farm mainly with <strong>the</strong>ir own and <strong>the</strong>ir family’s labour-<strong>for</strong>ce.’ 3<br />
Garimpeiro<br />
Global Compact<br />
The term <strong>for</strong> an artisanal or micro-miner in Brazil<br />
The UN Global Compact is a strategic policy initiative <strong>for</strong> businesses that are committed to<br />
aligning <strong>the</strong>ir operations and strategies with ten universally accepted principles in <strong>the</strong> areas<br />
<strong>of</strong> human rights, labour, environment and anti-corruption<br />
Global Sullivan Principles A set <strong>of</strong> principles to advance a development framework that enables businesses <strong>of</strong> all sizes<br />
and in all sectors to pursue <strong>the</strong>ir business objectives while being mindful and respectful <strong>of</strong><br />
employees and <strong>the</strong> communities in which <strong>the</strong>y operate<br />
GRI Reporting Guidelines Guidelines <strong>for</strong> reporting on an organisation’s sustainability per<strong>for</strong>mance<br />
IFC Per<strong>for</strong>mance Standards The International Finance Corporation’s environmental and social standards are designed<br />
to minimize impact on <strong>the</strong> environment and on affected communities<br />
ILO Conventions<br />
International Labour Organisation’s conventions on labour conditions<br />
Internal Safeguard Policies World Bank Policies <strong>for</strong> use by World Bank staff to ensure <strong>the</strong>ir development interventions<br />
do not harm <strong>the</strong> environment or vulnerable groups.<br />
IRMA Standards<br />
ISO 14000 series<br />
ISO 9000 series<br />
Joint Body<br />
Joint venture<br />
Junior Mining Company<br />
Kimberlite<br />
Kimberlite pipes<br />
Madison Dialogue<br />
Standards developed by <strong>the</strong> Initiative <strong>for</strong> Responsible Mining Assurance to be used as a<br />
voluntary system <strong>for</strong> independently verifying a mine’s compliance with environmental,<br />
human rights and social standards<br />
The International Organisation <strong>for</strong> Standardisation’s family <strong>of</strong> standards <strong>for</strong> Environmental<br />
Management<br />
The International Organisation <strong>for</strong> Standardisation’s family <strong>of</strong> standards <strong>for</strong> quality<br />
assurance<br />
The Joint Body is a committee whose sole purpose is to decide how <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> social<br />
premiums should be spent. The Joint Body is made up <strong>of</strong> democratically-elected worker<br />
representatives and representatives <strong>of</strong> management; workers hold <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> votes.<br />
The social premium is intended <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> benefit <strong>of</strong> workers and <strong>the</strong>ir communities.<br />
A contractual agreement joining toge<strong>the</strong>r two or more parties <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> executing<br />
a particular business undertaking<br />
A junior mining company does not derive its capital from <strong>the</strong> sale <strong>of</strong> its commodities, but<br />
raises it on <strong>the</strong> stock market to support its exploration and mine development activities.<br />
A type <strong>of</strong> s<strong>of</strong>t, potassic volcanic rock best known as <strong>the</strong> substrate <strong>for</strong> diamonds; usually<br />
grey-green in colour and crumbly in consistency<br />
Typically cone shaped occurrences <strong>of</strong> kimberlite, where most diamonds are found today<br />
A cross-sector initiative established to promote communication and collaboration among<br />
companies, civil society groups and o<strong>the</strong>rs seeking to encourage best practices, sustainable<br />
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
Manufacturing<br />
Mechanised Mining<br />
Medium-scale mining<br />
Micro mining (general)<br />
economic development, and verified sources <strong>of</strong> responsible gold, diamonds and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
minerals<br />
The process <strong>of</strong> cutting and polishing a diamond<br />
The use <strong>of</strong> machinery ei<strong>the</strong>r to remove or shift earth to obtain access to diamond bearing<br />
rock or gravel and/or to ‘wash’ <strong>the</strong> crushed rock or gravel<br />
A corporate mine, typically with assets exceeding US$100m, and an annual throughput <strong>of</strong><br />
ore exceeding 100,000 tonnes. The definition may vary according to country legislation.<br />
Organised diamond mining on a small scale, such as with cooperatives or miners’<br />
associations; typically with assets up to several hundred thousand US dollars.<br />
OECD Guidelines <strong>for</strong> Voluntary principles and standards <strong>for</strong> responsible business conduct covering employment<br />
Multinational Enterprises and industrial relations, human rights, environment, in<strong>for</strong>mation disclosure, combating<br />
bribery, consumer interests, science and technology, competition, and taxation.<br />
Overburden<br />
Points<br />
Producer<br />
Promoting Body<br />
Rap Sheet<br />
Rough<br />
Run-<strong>of</strong>-mine<br />
SA8000<br />
Sight holders<br />
Sights<br />
Sluice box<br />
Material, such as soil, which lies above <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> economic interest<br />
0.01 carat = 1 point, 100 points make up 1 carat<br />
A producer (miner) <strong>of</strong> diamonds<br />
The promoting body is <strong>the</strong> organisation which, under <strong>the</strong> Contract Production standard, is a<br />
legally registered entity which works locally with <strong>the</strong> unorganised or in<strong>for</strong>mal producers<br />
and takes on <strong>the</strong> responsibility <strong>for</strong> helping <strong>the</strong> producers ‘reach a level <strong>of</strong> organisation over<br />
time that is able to comply with’ one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r Generic Standards 4 .<br />
A wholesale price list <strong>for</strong> rough diamonds produced by <strong>the</strong> Rapaport Group<br />
Rough diamond(s)<br />
All diamonds from a particular mine<br />
A global social accountability standard <strong>for</strong> decent working conditions, developed and<br />
overseen by Social Accountability International (SAI)<br />
An exclusive group <strong>of</strong> preferred buyers <strong>of</strong> diamonds from De Beers<br />
Where Sight Holders view <strong>the</strong> diamonds <strong>of</strong>fered <strong>for</strong> sale by De Beers<br />
An elongated wooden or metal trough with riffles, down which alluvial gravel is washed to<br />
recover gold or diamonds (gravity separation)<br />
Standard Zero<br />
Standard Zero ‘is a set <strong>of</strong> draft principles and standards produced by a technical committee<br />
under <strong>the</strong> coordination <strong>of</strong> [ARM] … They are an adaptation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> FLO standards <strong>for</strong> small<br />
producers to <strong>the</strong> situation <strong>of</strong> artisanal and small scale mining (ASM), and <strong>the</strong>re<strong>for</strong>e follow<br />
<strong>the</strong> characteristic <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> grouping <strong>of</strong> social, economic, labour and environmental<br />
development standards. It also includes standards <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>rs <strong>of</strong> gold and associated<br />
silver and platinum.’ 5<br />
Upstream (supply chain) Towards <strong>the</strong> point <strong>of</strong> extraction <strong>of</strong> diamonds<br />
Voluntary Principles on A set <strong>of</strong> voluntary principles to guide companies in maintaining <strong>the</strong> safety and security <strong>of</strong><br />
Security & Human Rights <strong>the</strong>ir operations within an operating framework that ensures respect <strong>for</strong> human rights and<br />
fundamental freedoms<br />
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
INTRODUCTION<br />
Since <strong>the</strong> problem <strong>of</strong> conflict diamonds emerged in <strong>the</strong> late 1990s, <strong>the</strong> diamond industry and o<strong>the</strong>r industry<br />
stakeholders have engaged a number <strong>of</strong> strategies to verify diamond supply chains. Chief among <strong>the</strong>se was <strong>the</strong> launch<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kimberley Process Certification Scheme <strong>for</strong> Rough <strong>Diamond</strong>s (KPCS), which sought to eliminate <strong>the</strong> trade in<br />
conflict diamonds. The KPCS has made a number <strong>of</strong> significant steps towards <strong>for</strong>malising and improving transparency<br />
in and oversight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> diamond trade, particularly <strong>the</strong> trade in artisanally mined rough diamonds.<br />
With many policy makers, industry experts and observers perceiving, correctly or not, that <strong>the</strong> most significant conflict<br />
diamond issues have been largely addressed by <strong>the</strong> KPCS, <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> assuring <strong>the</strong> ethical integrity <strong>of</strong> diamonds has<br />
evolved to o<strong>the</strong>r concerns, most especially labour and human rights issues. No longer content with <strong>the</strong> unitary brand<br />
that is ‘diamond’ in and <strong>of</strong> itself and keen to distinguish <strong>the</strong>ir diamonds on <strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir naturalness, quality, and<br />
social and environmental credentials, multinational diamond industry leaders are spearheading this shift within <strong>the</strong><br />
diamond industry through <strong>the</strong>ir own diamond branding initiatives. At <strong>the</strong> same time, NGO voices continue to<br />
campaign on <strong>the</strong> industry’s development challenges, emphasising that diamond mining and processing, and artisanal<br />
mining in particular, are still associated with hazardous conditions; exploitative labour; child labour; gender<br />
discrimination; ecological destruction; environmental health risks; and social and economic malaise within <strong>the</strong><br />
communities in which <strong>the</strong>y operate.<br />
In step with this broad-based momentum to address development issues in <strong>the</strong> diamond sector and given <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s<br />
current successes in o<strong>the</strong>r commodities and thus potential to actively help address <strong>the</strong>se issues, Transfair USA, with<br />
funding from <strong>the</strong> Tiffany Foundation, commissioned <strong>the</strong> present study to assess <strong>the</strong> feasibility and desirability <strong>of</strong><br />
developing a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard and Certification system <strong>for</strong> diamonds.<br />
The goal <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> is to ‘empower farmers and workers to lift <strong>the</strong>mselves out <strong>of</strong> poverty by investing in <strong>the</strong>ir farms<br />
and communities, protecting <strong>the</strong> environment, and developing <strong>the</strong> business skills necessary to compete in <strong>the</strong> global<br />
marketplace’ 6 . <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Principles include a fair price, fair labour conditions, direct trade, democratic and<br />
transparent organisations, community development and environmental sustainability 7 . The report’s aim is to assess<br />
whe<strong>the</strong>r and how <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certification could deliver on this goal and <strong>the</strong>se principles within <strong>the</strong> diamond industry.<br />
Transfair USA commissioned two reports as part <strong>of</strong> this overall. Shauna Alexander-Mohr assessed industry needs and<br />
expectations in order to market polished <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds at <strong>the</strong> point <strong>of</strong> retail 8 . Her key conclusions were 9 :<br />
• The industry is open to <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s collaboration in tackling its major development issues, particularly in<br />
relation to supply chain integrity and artisanal mining, through a market-based solution;<br />
• <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> should partner with existing industry ef<strong>for</strong>ts in this area, which involve individuals who “possess<br />
prodigious knowledge about every aspect <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> industry” and are <strong>the</strong> “industry leaders from top brands and<br />
leading NGOs” 10 .<br />
• The branding and marketing context <strong>for</strong> jewellery is substantially different from <strong>the</strong> agricultural products that<br />
<strong>for</strong>m <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s current base, as jewellery is not an every day investment and is <strong>of</strong>ten “well-contemplated”<br />
and “charged with emotion” 11 .<br />
• The “notion <strong>of</strong> a ‘diamond brand’ is a powerful <strong>for</strong>ce” and is “part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reason <strong>the</strong> industry came toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
quickly to address conflict diamonds” 12 . Thus:<br />
o <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> “should be prepared to be a supporting brand, not a co-brand, <strong>for</strong> diamond jewelry” as<br />
many retailers would not seek to discriminate between <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> and non-<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> products in<br />
<strong>the</strong> store, but would provide in<strong>for</strong>mation only if asked by <strong>the</strong> customer, “ ‘like a Woolmark label on<br />
an Armani suit’” 13 .<br />
o Negative marketing would not be tolerated as ‘casting doubt on one diamond is casting doubt on all<br />
diamonds’ 14 .<br />
• The industry is interested in <strong>the</strong> possibility <strong>of</strong> buying and selling <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds – but whe<strong>the</strong>r or not<br />
<strong>the</strong>y actually do purchase <strong>the</strong>m will depend on <strong>the</strong> volume <strong>of</strong> available supply and diamond quality, size and<br />
price, and on <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s ability to break ground in risky territory where no one has yet succeeded: verifying<br />
a porous and complex global supply chain from mine to display case.<br />
By Resource Consulting Services<br />
1
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
• The industry is fast-moving and ef<strong>for</strong>ts are moving <strong>for</strong>ward quickly. If FT wants to play a role it must launch<br />
swiftly.<br />
The second phase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> research, conducted by RCS Limited and reported below, assesses <strong>the</strong> downstream segments<br />
<strong>of</strong> diamond mining, rough trading, and manufacturing at all geographies and scales 15 . Specifically, it sought to<br />
determine <strong>the</strong> feasibility and desirability <strong>of</strong> certifying diamonds as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>, bearing in mind <strong>the</strong> geography and<br />
political economy <strong>of</strong> production, trade, and manufacture; <strong>the</strong> capacity <strong>of</strong> producer organisations to participate; how<br />
to ensure supply chain integrity; <strong>the</strong> ability <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> to deliver development benefits to miners and <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
communities; <strong>the</strong> possible role <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> in <strong>the</strong> context <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r initiatives; key issues <strong>for</strong> standard development;<br />
and potential pilot sites.<br />
Work began at <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> 2008 16 . The research involved literature review, stakeholder consultation and observation<br />
through field work, interviews, participation in industry events and conferences 17 . Field trips were to South Africa,<br />
Sierra Leone and China, and desk-based case studies were conducted based on associates’ prior research in Botswana,<br />
Brazil, Guyana, and India. Five main research questions were asked <strong>of</strong> each case study organisation: is <strong>the</strong>re a business<br />
case <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> engagement from <strong>the</strong> perspectives <strong>of</strong> Transfair/FLO and <strong>the</strong> producer? Is <strong>the</strong>re a development<br />
case? Does <strong>the</strong> organisation have adequate capacity to engage? What are <strong>the</strong> contextual challenges? The research<br />
also looked at general feasibility, asking similar questions concerning <strong>the</strong> general global business and development<br />
cases <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond standard, and examining contextual challenges. It asked whe<strong>the</strong>r producer and<br />
manufacturing organisations have <strong>the</strong> capacity to produce <strong>the</strong> right type and quantity <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds<br />
demanded by retailers, and whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>re are potential opportunities <strong>for</strong> synergies and partnerships with existing<br />
initiatives.<br />
A TYPOLOGY OF PRODUCERS<br />
Typologies <strong>of</strong> producers and manufacturers were developed to ensure consistency <strong>of</strong> interpretation across <strong>the</strong> case<br />
studies and analysis. This divided producers into six groups on <strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> levels <strong>of</strong> organisation, <strong>for</strong>malisation and<br />
legality, ownership structure, and motivation as <strong>the</strong>se important distinctions will determine how <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> can and<br />
should engage in order to ensure it is benefitting <strong>the</strong> target group. See Table One 18 .<br />
Table One: A Typology <strong>of</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Producers, Part One<br />
Type <strong>of</strong> Organisation<br />
1. Subsistence artisanal<br />
miners<br />
Level <strong>of</strong><br />
Organisation<br />
Individuals<br />
Limited<br />
organisation<br />
(family groups,<br />
small gangs)<br />
19 Organised<br />
2. Micro-mining<br />
artisanal miners<br />
3. Locally owned<br />
small-scale mining<br />
companies / mines<br />
4. Foreign owned<br />
small-scale mining<br />
companies / mines<br />
5. Medium-scale mining<br />
companies / mines<br />
6. Large-scale mining<br />
companies / mines<br />
Organised<br />
Organised<br />
Organised<br />
Organised<br />
Level <strong>of</strong><br />
Pr<strong>of</strong>essionalism<br />
In<strong>for</strong>mal, Illegal<br />
Unpr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
In<strong>for</strong>mal, illegal<br />
Formal, Legal<br />
Semi-pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
Formal, Legal<br />
Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
Formal, Legal<br />
Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
corporate<br />
Formal, Legal<br />
Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
corporate<br />
Formal, Legal<br />
Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
corporate<br />
Owner-operator<br />
or hired labour<br />
Owner operator<br />
Supported labour<br />
Some casual hired<br />
labour<br />
Owner operator<br />
Supported labour<br />
Some hired labour<br />
Certificate<br />
holder<br />
Promoting<br />
Body (NGO,<br />
trader, etc.)<br />
Organisation<br />
Hired labour Mine Pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />
Hired labour Mine Pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />
Hired labour Mine Pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />
Owner’s<br />
Motivation<br />
Survival /<br />
Subsistence<br />
Survival /<br />
Subsistence<br />
Hired labour Mine Pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />
By Resource Consulting Services<br />
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
Table One: A Typology <strong>of</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Producers, Part Two<br />
Type <strong>of</strong> Organisation Capital Technology<br />
Assets
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
DIAMOND PRODUCERS<br />
SUBSISTENCE ARTISANAL MINERS<br />
Unorganised Subsistence Artisanal Miners (SAM) is not an appropriate sector <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> engagement in <strong>the</strong> shortterm<br />
due to <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> infrastructure at <strong>the</strong> business and development levels. Engagement with SAM would require<br />
<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> to find a body (NGO, exporter or buyer) ei<strong>the</strong>r to function as a buyer from a number <strong>of</strong> artisanal producers<br />
or to organise <strong>the</strong> miners. In relation to <strong>the</strong> first option, <strong>the</strong> difficulties include finding <strong>the</strong> right organisation, verifying<br />
<strong>the</strong> origin and legality <strong>of</strong> rough diamonds, auditing <strong>the</strong> activities <strong>of</strong> scores <strong>of</strong> individuals or small groups, and<br />
successfully entering buying markets given <strong>the</strong> cultures and risks <strong>of</strong> diamond buying in many countries. For example,<br />
building trust with miners and political authorities, providing ad-hoc ‘relief’ to <strong>the</strong> miners, and occasionally financing<br />
production are all hugely important in ensuring access to supply. On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, attempting to organise SAM into<br />
functional institutions has not been done successfully <strong>for</strong> diamonds (yet) 24 . Yet, if <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> wishes to benefit this<br />
most vulnerable group <strong>of</strong> miners, <strong>the</strong>n organising <strong>the</strong>m would be vital.<br />
MICRO-SCALE MINERS<br />
<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> business opportunities to engage with this sector are many, as miners are <strong>of</strong>ten looking <strong>for</strong> investment,<br />
assistance in improving productivity, and improved access to markets: <strong>the</strong>y need capitalisation. Yet, this sector is also<br />
relatively high risk and canny investors have lost money engaging with it 25 . Inadequate supply also means that,<br />
without <strong>the</strong> security <strong>of</strong> supply af<strong>for</strong>ded by a larger operator, partnerships with many micro-scale mining organisations<br />
would be necessary, increasing <strong>the</strong> costs <strong>of</strong> capacity building and oversight. However, development opportunities in<br />
this sector are substantial. These producers face many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> development issues present in artisanal mining<br />
communities. They are well embedded in <strong>the</strong> local community and many operate, or have ambitions to operate local<br />
development programs.<br />
<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could adopt a progressive approach to manage <strong>the</strong> risks <strong>of</strong> engaging with <strong>the</strong>se producer organisations. For<br />
example, some combine diamond mining with o<strong>the</strong>r economic activities. <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could engage with those that<br />
produce agricultural products and gold and use <strong>the</strong>se as ‘trial’ <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> commodities to build Cooperative values and<br />
functionality, be<strong>for</strong>e attempting <strong>the</strong> riskier business <strong>of</strong> diamond production.<br />
SMALL-SCALE MINING COMPANIES<br />
SSM companies enjoy some significant advantages over micro-miners from a business perspective. Most significant<br />
are <strong>the</strong>ir relatively watertight and captured supply chains, which reduce opportunities <strong>for</strong> interference, and <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
ability to produce more diamonds. SSM also have a greater social and environmental impact, which can be a good or a<br />
bad thing. This is especially <strong>the</strong> case <strong>for</strong> locally-owned SSM, whose owners will invest a greater proportion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
pr<strong>of</strong>its in <strong>the</strong> local and national economies than <strong>for</strong>eign-owned SSM 26 . From <strong>the</strong> SSM perspective, <strong>the</strong>re are pros and<br />
cons to working with <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>. The con is that <strong>the</strong>y tend to be less capitalised than LSM and so may find a hired<br />
labour standard costly and a burden. The pros, however, are that in this sense, <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could up <strong>the</strong> business case<br />
<strong>for</strong> SSM by helping <strong>the</strong>m access finance and secure buyers on <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir participation in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />
partnership. Their involvement with <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could also act as a type <strong>of</strong> guarantee to host governments <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir CR<br />
credentials, and so improve <strong>the</strong>ir competitiveness in securing desirable concessions. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, compared to microminers,<br />
<strong>the</strong> higher pr<strong>of</strong>ile <strong>of</strong> SSM within <strong>the</strong> local community requires a process <strong>of</strong> continual engagement to maintain<br />
good relations. <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could help with this and enhance community benefits through its <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> premium<br />
framework <strong>for</strong> ensuring community development in a way that is properly democratic and inclusive.<br />
MID- AND LARGE-SCALE MINING COMPANIES<br />
From a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> perspective, <strong>the</strong> business case is simply <strong>the</strong> potential supply from <strong>the</strong>se companies. Practically<br />
speaking, large-scale mines would have to be assessed and assured on a mine-by-mine basis, i.e. it is <strong>the</strong> Ekati mine,<br />
By Resource Consulting Services<br />
4
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
not BHP Billiton’s <strong>Diamond</strong> Arm that would be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified. However, <strong>the</strong>re is <strong>the</strong> potential <strong>of</strong> oversupply in<br />
fact, and, based on a number <strong>of</strong> key stakeholders’ shared view, <strong>the</strong>re are reputational risks <strong>for</strong> FLO in certifying this<br />
sector’s diamonds ei<strong>the</strong>r at all and certainly be<strong>for</strong>e artisanal or small-scale organisations are certified.<br />
The development case <strong>for</strong> engagement rests on <strong>the</strong> companies’ potential impact, and <strong>the</strong> additional empowerment<br />
benefit <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> structures would <strong>of</strong>fer both workers and communities beyond <strong>the</strong> CR frameworks <strong>the</strong>se companies<br />
already use. As partners and not development beneficiaries, <strong>the</strong>re must also be a business case from <strong>the</strong> perspective<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> parent mine or company. The general business case <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong>m has already been exemplified by <strong>the</strong> ef<strong>for</strong>ts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s biggest diamond companies to implement voluntary standards and CR strategies across all <strong>the</strong>ir major mining,<br />
sorting, sight-holder and manufacturing operations, and consequently to develop <strong>the</strong>ir own ‘brands’ to assure<br />
consumers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir ethical status. These standards and strategies cover a comprehensive scope <strong>of</strong> requirements,<br />
including many found in <strong>the</strong> FLO Hired Labour standard. They do not, however, all address <strong>the</strong> same issues and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are certainly some gaps between <strong>the</strong>se and <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s Hired Labour requirements, including <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s particular<br />
(and empowering) premium redistribution mechanism. Also, <strong>the</strong>y tend to be assured by second party auditors<br />
commissioned by <strong>the</strong> companies. Co-branding with <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could help raise <strong>the</strong> value <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se industry brands by<br />
making clear to consumers a greater independence in assurance and superior attention to <strong>the</strong> protection <strong>of</strong><br />
vulnerable groups and <strong>the</strong> delivery <strong>of</strong> development benefits. If <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> decides that engaging with this sector is<br />
necessary or desirable, <strong>the</strong>n advocacy may be required to encourage <strong>the</strong>ir involvement.<br />
THE CUTTING AND POLISHING SECTOR<br />
From <strong>the</strong> manufacturer’s perspective, <strong>the</strong> business case to cut and polish <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds is strong as it would not<br />
mean many adaptations, especially in <strong>the</strong> <strong>for</strong>mal, pr<strong>of</strong>essional sector, as many factories are accustomed to existing<br />
assurance systems. However, <strong>the</strong>re must be a commercial incentive in terms <strong>of</strong> greater competitiveness or income in<br />
return <strong>for</strong> participation. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>the</strong> factors that influence <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> production (US$ per carat) must be<br />
managed. To keep this as low as possible <strong>for</strong> any size <strong>of</strong> stone, and as a strategy <strong>for</strong> ensuring manufacturer interest,<br />
<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> will have to guarantee a regular supply <strong>of</strong> rough <strong>of</strong> sufficient quantity and appropriate size and quality.<br />
The decision on which manufacturers to work with depends upon <strong>the</strong> objectives <strong>of</strong> engagement with this supply chain<br />
segment, namely risk mitigation or development optimisation. If <strong>the</strong> principal objective is risk mitigation, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong><br />
highly organised, modern diamond processing units that use laser, semi-automated/automated, and planning<br />
technologies would be most suitable. Here, labour relations are fairly good, <strong>the</strong> diamonds are well tracked, and <strong>the</strong><br />
implementation <strong>of</strong> auditable requirements should not be so difficult. These factories could be part <strong>of</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />
supply chain as licensed operators without needing to develop a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard <strong>for</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Manufacturers.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, if <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> prioritised <strong>the</strong> provision <strong>of</strong> development benefits to manufacturers as a condition <strong>for</strong><br />
engagement, <strong>the</strong>n this would mean seeking ways to work with cottage manufacturers where more vulnerable<br />
individuals get work but where <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> production is lower, diamond tracking is less sophisticated, and labour<br />
issues are more serious. This would require actually developing a full <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard <strong>for</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Manufacturers.<br />
Based on stakeholders’ responses, this is <strong>the</strong> preferred option, and <strong>the</strong>re would be reputational issues <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> in<br />
not developing a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard <strong>for</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Manufacturers which rigorously assures process and production<br />
methods and associated management systems, whilst directly attempting to tackle some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sector’s development<br />
issues. Indeed, overall, it is clear from <strong>the</strong> health and safety problems in small-scale factories in India, <strong>the</strong> pressurised<br />
environment induced by Botswanan factories’ ‘incentive structures’, and <strong>the</strong> extant development-oriented and black<br />
empowerment practices <strong>of</strong> South Africa’s case study manufacturers, that <strong>the</strong>re is much to be achieved in this supply<br />
chain segment in terms <strong>of</strong> development through empowerment and protection <strong>of</strong> vulnerable groups.<br />
SUPPLY CHAIN MODELS AND PRICING STRUCTURES<br />
A breach in <strong>the</strong> supply chain was considered a serious threat to <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certification, according to survey<br />
respondents. This is a particular threat with micro and small scale operators. However, <strong>the</strong>se challenges are not<br />
By Resource Consulting Services<br />
5
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
insurmountable if due consideration is given to checks and balances in <strong>the</strong> system. Maintaining supply chain integrity<br />
at <strong>the</strong> point <strong>of</strong> manufacture will involve appropriate contractual terms, adapting requirements that encompass <strong>the</strong><br />
specific realities <strong>of</strong> each unit, building trust, and ensuring transparency. But perhaps more important is that a <strong>Fair</strong><br />
<strong>Trade</strong> certification scheme seeks to build long term partnerships with producers and o<strong>the</strong>r actors that are based on<br />
mutual trust, benefit, and loyalty.<br />
The report presented a number <strong>of</strong> examples <strong>of</strong> supply chain models and partnerships which are currently in operation<br />
in <strong>the</strong> diamond sector. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most viable ways to get a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond to market, is through vertically<br />
integrated supply chains, if large-scale mines and multinational diamond corporations participated in certification,<br />
and partially integrated supply chains <strong>for</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r coalitions <strong>of</strong> miners and buyers.<br />
MINES ROUGH TRADE/ MANUFACTURING POLISHED TRADE/ JEWELLERS<br />
SORTING<br />
SORTING<br />
One possible supply chain model currently used by Target Resources to Tiffany & Co., and De Beers to Finesse<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong>s<br />
There may be a place <strong>for</strong> an ‘ethical agent’ to directly insert <strong>the</strong>mselves into <strong>the</strong> supply chain to act as a dedicated<br />
buyer <strong>of</strong> diamonds from <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> mines, outsourcing C&P, and <strong>the</strong>n sorting and selling <strong>the</strong> diamonds to <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />
Jewellery Manufacturers with a view to facilitating this process ra<strong>the</strong>r than maximising pr<strong>of</strong>it 27 . The advantages are<br />
that it would help ensure greater control <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> chain <strong>of</strong> custody from mine to market and a portion <strong>of</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>its could be<br />
directly set aside <strong>for</strong> investment in bringing more mining organisations to compliance.<br />
In order to establish a fair price, it will be necessary to design a procedure <strong>for</strong> pricing <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds. This will<br />
need to be done by specialists alongside standard development.<br />
MANAGING INCOMPATIBLE SUPPLY AND DEMAND<br />
A serious complicating factor in making functioning, commercially viable supply chains is <strong>the</strong> possible incompatibility<br />
between <strong>the</strong> types <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds produced and those demanded by <strong>the</strong> market. This has implications <strong>for</strong><br />
what types <strong>of</strong> producer and manufacturers should be brought on board from a purely commercial standpoint.<br />
Alexander-Mohr indicated that <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> consumers would likely be from “<strong>the</strong> bridal market” 28 , which means that<br />
better stones would be demanded. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, marketing study respondents indicated that certifying anything<br />
under 10 or 25 points would be cost ineffective 29 . Yet <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> producers would benefit most from selling run-<strong>of</strong>mine,<br />
which means <strong>the</strong>re would be a large proportion <strong>of</strong> small, and semi-gem and industrial diamonds to deal with.<br />
<strong>Diamond</strong> quality and quantity were generally poor in most micro-scale case study organisations researched.<br />
In terms <strong>of</strong> manufacturing, pr<strong>of</strong>essional factories with higher costs tend to specialise in larger, better quality stones, as<br />
<strong>the</strong>y cannot glean a sufficient margin from <strong>the</strong> smaller stones as <strong>the</strong> cottage industry can. This suits <strong>the</strong> potential<br />
market, but not <strong>the</strong> potential supply. The ideal situation from <strong>the</strong> producers’ perspective would be that <strong>the</strong>y could sell<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir semi-gems as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>, and <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> manufacturers could manufacture <strong>the</strong>m economically, to provide a <strong>Fair</strong><br />
<strong>Trade</strong> market <strong>for</strong>, say, melee or fashion jewellery. However, ensuring <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> production is adequately low to keep<br />
<strong>the</strong>se diamonds competitive at ultimate retail point, whilst ensuring <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> requirements are met, would be<br />
challenging. In <strong>the</strong> short-term, if scoping studies confirm this preliminary conclusion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> likely quality <strong>of</strong> supply from<br />
<strong>the</strong> micro-producers, <strong>the</strong>n certifying a larger organisation to ensure consistency and appropriate quality <strong>of</strong> supply<br />
would seemingly be necessary to even enable a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> supply chain to exist.<br />
By Resource Consulting Services<br />
6
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
DEVELOPING THE STANDARD<br />
In any <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> supply chain, it is likely only <strong>the</strong> mine and possibly <strong>the</strong> manufacturer would be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified.<br />
For <strong>the</strong> sake <strong>of</strong> ensuring <strong>the</strong> integrity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> chain <strong>of</strong> custody and use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> label, all o<strong>the</strong>r supply chain<br />
operators would have to be audited and licensed as compliant with requirements set by FLO or FLO-Cert.<br />
We recommend universal principles <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds across all scales and geographies so as to maintain a<br />
universal meaning as to what goals a ‘<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond’ delivers on. However, we believe <strong>the</strong> requirements must be<br />
tailored to <strong>the</strong> differing capacities, realities and challenges <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> different types <strong>of</strong> operator, and differing ownership<br />
and decision-making structures at <strong>the</strong> different scales, in order to be achievable and productive. We <strong>the</strong>re<strong>for</strong>e<br />
recommend developing three standards based on scale:<br />
1. A Subsistence Miners’ Standard. It will not be possible <strong>for</strong> SAM to be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified as it is fundamental<br />
that <strong>the</strong> producer organisation be an organised, legal entity. However, <strong>the</strong>se are <strong>the</strong> most vulnerable<br />
producers who could benefit most from <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> arrangements. FLO’s Contract Labour standard provides a<br />
route <strong>for</strong> in<strong>for</strong>mal, unorganised producers to produce a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified product whilst <strong>the</strong>y organise,<br />
<strong>for</strong>malise, and build <strong>the</strong>ir capacity to comply with <strong>the</strong> Small Farmer Standard. Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, <strong>the</strong> absence or<br />
extremely limited choice <strong>of</strong> suitable Promoting Bodies in all countries investigated may mean that <strong>the</strong><br />
capacity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Promoting Body would have to be built first, even be<strong>for</strong>e <strong>the</strong> capacity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> miners could be<br />
attended to. This is not a short-term, or cheap, solution. Thus we think a Subsistence Miners’ Standard, based<br />
on FLO’s Contract Labour standard, could be developed in <strong>the</strong> mid-term.<br />
2. A Micro-scale Mining Organisations’ Standard. This would need extra requirements <strong>for</strong> hired labour<br />
(permanent and temporary), but would be based on FLO’s Small Farmer Standard and ARM’s Standard Zero,<br />
which adapts FLO’s Small Farmer Standard <strong>for</strong> artisanal gold miners 30 .<br />
3. A Corporate Mining Organisations’ Standard, <strong>for</strong> small-scale, mid- and large scale private and joint-venture<br />
mines. This would be based on FLO’s Hired Labour Standard, but would include requirements <strong>for</strong> local<br />
employment and management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Premium in <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> Joint Ventures. It would also take<br />
reference from CRJP’s and IRMA’s Standards in particular, which pull toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> principles and<br />
requirements <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> industry’s multiple CR standards, as set out below. If it is determined that developed<br />
country producers are <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> eligible <strong>for</strong> this product, we would recommend that a Technical Committee<br />
consider carefully <strong>the</strong> differing developmental potentials and operational risks <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> producers and<br />
vulnerabilities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mine communities in <strong>the</strong>se different contexts be<strong>for</strong>e deciding whe<strong>the</strong>r or not it would<br />
indeed be more fair to make requirements <strong>for</strong> mid- to large-scale producers in developed countries more<br />
rigorous or even different than <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir counterparts in developing countries.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> Cutting & Polishing level, we would recommend that Transfair develop <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Manufacturers’ Rules to<br />
allow factories be able to be licensed as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Manufacturers in <strong>the</strong> first instance, with a view to developing a <strong>Fair</strong><br />
<strong>Trade</strong> Cutting & Polishing Standard <strong>for</strong> achieving empowerment and development objectives in <strong>the</strong> medium-term. At<br />
<strong>the</strong> practical level, it is <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional factories that will be <strong>the</strong> first to be licensed. However, and in line with <strong>the</strong><br />
desires <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> stakeholders, it is recommended that any <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Standard developed <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Cutting &<br />
Polishing Level be oriented at <strong>the</strong> cottage industry segment too, where <strong>the</strong> empowerment impacts would likely be<br />
greater and <strong>the</strong> type <strong>of</strong> producer is more in line with <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> tradition.<br />
There will also need to be Rules <strong>for</strong> Rough and Polished Buyers to enable <strong>the</strong>m to be licensed as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Buyers.<br />
Supplementary requirements may need to be specified <strong>for</strong> different types <strong>of</strong> trading, e.g. free trade at auctions and<br />
bourses vs. pre-arranged contracted trade.<br />
By Resource Consulting Services<br />
7
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
POTENTIAL PARTNERS: PRODUCERS<br />
The report includes a number <strong>of</strong> case studies <strong>of</strong> potential partners in <strong>the</strong> production <strong>of</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond including<br />
cooperatives from South America and Sierra Leone, and businesses from South Africa, Botswana and Tanzania, and<br />
discusses <strong>the</strong> pros and cons <strong>of</strong> working with each respective organisation reviewed in terms <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> business case,<br />
development case, feasibility, key issues & risks, and time-frame <strong>for</strong> engagement. Some key observations and<br />
conclusions are:<br />
• Generally:<br />
o Good prospecting and proper cost benefit analyses are vital be<strong>for</strong>e a decision is made to engage a<br />
mining organisation as a potential <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> producer.<br />
o Importance <strong>of</strong> building trust and loyalty within <strong>the</strong> organisation and between <strong>the</strong> organisation and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> actors, including <strong>the</strong> buyer.<br />
o It is easy to raise hope and expectations amongst miners and mineworkers; initial engagement<br />
should be cautious and respectful <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> potential <strong>for</strong> people to plan <strong>the</strong>ir lives around a belief that<br />
<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> will come. <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> will also have to deal with cynicism from miners who have had<br />
expectations dashed previously by development or ethical buying interventions.<br />
• Guyana:<br />
o Guyana’s Subsistence Artisanal Miners (SAM) could reach <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certifiable standards with<br />
relatively little ef<strong>for</strong>t, save <strong>for</strong> those which relate to organisation.<br />
o The lack <strong>of</strong> institutionalisation <strong>of</strong> Guayanese mining gangs and <strong>the</strong> illegality <strong>of</strong> miners suggests that<br />
<strong>the</strong> FLO Contract Production Standard is <strong>the</strong> only suitable model <strong>for</strong> engagement. Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, <strong>the</strong><br />
lack <strong>of</strong> a suitable local partner makes this unworkable in <strong>the</strong> short term.<br />
o It is not clear that <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> could contribute to fairer financing as miners are not financed by<br />
dealers and so are free to shop <strong>the</strong>ir diamonds around. Financial backers have an interest in seeing<br />
that miners receive as much as possible <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> diamonds as <strong>the</strong>ir share depends on this price too.<br />
There would need to be o<strong>the</strong>r incentives <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> miners to decide that <strong>the</strong>y want to be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />
Producers.<br />
o Smuggling <strong>of</strong> Venezuelan diamonds into Guyana and <strong>the</strong> inability to ensure a relatively closed chain<br />
<strong>of</strong> custody would make it extremely difficult to prevent laundering <strong>of</strong> Venezuelan diamonds through<br />
<strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> supply chains.<br />
• Brazil:<br />
o<br />
o<br />
o<br />
The business case <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> is fairly good, with <strong>the</strong> Brazilian cooperatives demonstrating good<br />
management and good production (including large and valuable gems).<br />
The mechanised cooperatives are keen to market members’ diamonds directly to international<br />
buyers, suggesting a predisposition to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> concept.<br />
The use <strong>of</strong> hired labour but small size <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> operational units means that <strong>the</strong> certification system<br />
would need to accommodate hired labour in a way that would ensure <strong>the</strong> miners receive adequate<br />
protection and benefits, without being overly bureaucratic.<br />
• Sierra Leone:<br />
o The viability <strong>of</strong> building micro-scale <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> production in Sierra Leone is threatened by<br />
dematerialisation <strong>of</strong> traditional diamond producing areas and <strong>the</strong> consequential increase in cost <strong>of</strong><br />
production.<br />
o Concerted and ongoing training in business and operational management and democratic<br />
governance will be crucial to ensure producers are pr<strong>of</strong>itable and <strong>the</strong> distribution <strong>of</strong> benefits is fair.<br />
o The chances <strong>of</strong> successful engagement can be enhanced by engaging with cooperatives that have<br />
successfully participated in o<strong>the</strong>r programmes, such as FESS’s land reclamation project 31 .<br />
o In light <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> failings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> PDA cooperatives scheme 32 , <strong>the</strong> cooperatives’ work in mining gold and<br />
agriculture could provide a useful opportunity to do a phased approach to producing <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />
diamonds as a risk management strategy. These organisations could become <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified <strong>for</strong><br />
gold or cash crops as a route to promoting <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> to <strong>the</strong>m, ensuring <strong>the</strong>ir loyalty to <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>Fair</strong><br />
<strong>Trade</strong> partners and each o<strong>the</strong>r, and proving <strong>the</strong>ir ability to function as <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> producers be<strong>for</strong>e<br />
taking <strong>the</strong> much riskier and more expensive step <strong>of</strong> initiating <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond mining operations.<br />
By Resource Consulting Services<br />
8
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
o<br />
o<br />
Sandoh <strong>Development</strong> Corporation (SDC), which is a joint venture between Milestone Trading (Target<br />
Resources, plc) and <strong>the</strong> local chiefdom, could be a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> pilot project. However, <strong>the</strong> implications<br />
<strong>of</strong> operating under <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> principles would need to be entirely understood by <strong>the</strong> chiefdom<br />
partners so that <strong>the</strong>ir willingness to engage could be confirmed.<br />
SDC supplies Tiffany & Co., so this could be an interesting partially integrated model supply chain.<br />
• South Africa<br />
o There is potential <strong>for</strong> a complete South African FT supply chain through a number <strong>of</strong> manufacturers.<br />
o Potential supply is very large, but <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> production from micro-scale producers is seemingly<br />
poor. A larger operation would need to be brought on board to make in-country <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> supply<br />
chains viable.<br />
o There is potential to operate through a tender house to auction <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamonds to buyers.<br />
o <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> is already successful in <strong>the</strong> agricultural and horticultural sectors. Miners could learn from<br />
<strong>the</strong>se farmers’ experiences.<br />
o Black Economic Empowerment in South Africa can serve as a useful basis <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> promotion <strong>of</strong> <strong>Fair</strong><br />
<strong>Trade</strong> in South Africa.<br />
• Tanzania<br />
o The Mwadui Community <strong>Diamond</strong> Partnership (MCDP) was still in <strong>the</strong> planning phase and<br />
community engagement phase when De Beers sold its share in <strong>the</strong> Williamson <strong>Diamond</strong> Mine to<br />
Petra <strong>Diamond</strong>s in September 2008 33 . The future <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Partnership is uncertain.<br />
o Should Petra not take <strong>for</strong>ward <strong>the</strong> mantle, it may be possible <strong>for</strong> a local NGO to advance <strong>the</strong> project<br />
with external support, acting as a promoting body to ensure <strong>the</strong> MCDP’s objectives are realised.<br />
o The development <strong>of</strong> a standard <strong>for</strong> SAM might be necessary <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certification <strong>of</strong> Mwadui<br />
diamonds until <strong>the</strong>re were micro-scale organisations who could fulfil <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> requirements.<br />
o If <strong>the</strong> MCDP retains <strong>the</strong> support <strong>of</strong> Williamson <strong>Diamond</strong>s Limited and proves successful, it has<br />
potential not only to be a participant in a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Scheme, but to be a model project in how to<br />
organise SAM to be <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> micro-producers.<br />
• Botswana<br />
o Debswana could comply quickly.<br />
o As it is a joint venture with <strong>the</strong> Government <strong>of</strong> Botswana, it may be challenging to do <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> with<br />
Debswama as <strong>the</strong> Joint Body mechanism is designed to benefit workers and local communities. In<br />
keeping with standard practice in <strong>the</strong> industry, <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> corporate mining organisations might<br />
integrate workers’ representatives, company management, and community representatives into <strong>the</strong><br />
Joint Body.<br />
o As <strong>the</strong> research was conducted remotely, <strong>the</strong> interest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> owners in participating is not known.<br />
POTENTIAL PARTNERS: OTHER INITIATIVES<br />
There is a range <strong>of</strong> initiatives within <strong>the</strong> ‘ethical’ diamond sector spanning <strong>the</strong> interests <strong>of</strong> civil society, government<br />
and business, ranging from on-<strong>the</strong>-ground sustainable development projects to global councils <strong>for</strong> developing<br />
assurance standards. <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> standard development should build on lessons learned from <strong>the</strong>se initiatives’<br />
successes and failures, and avoid duplication <strong>of</strong> existing ef<strong>for</strong>ts by integrating with <strong>the</strong>se where possible 34 .<br />
Key organisations with whom <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> should build alliances are DDI, CASM, and ARM <strong>for</strong> working with artisanal and<br />
micro-miners, and CRJP and IRMA <strong>for</strong> working with corporate miners. The DDI has many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major industry<br />
stakeholders on its board or in its advisory committee, and is held by <strong>the</strong>m to be <strong>the</strong> principal institution <strong>for</strong> tackling<br />
development issues in <strong>the</strong> diamond sector, particularly relating to <strong>the</strong> artisanal segment. Close collaboration with DDI<br />
is advised if key players are to be supportive and not view <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s ef<strong>for</strong>ts as duplication.<br />
CRJP and IRMA have developed industry standards <strong>for</strong> assuring <strong>the</strong> ethical per<strong>for</strong>mance <strong>of</strong> large-scale diamond<br />
producers and manufacturers. FLO could improve <strong>the</strong>ir development impact through <strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> an<br />
‘empowerment’ component to append to <strong>the</strong>se standards to allow producers to use <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> label on <strong>the</strong><br />
product. This component would focus on control <strong>of</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Premium and protection and fuller inclusion <strong>of</strong><br />
vulnerable stakeholders.<br />
By Resource Consulting Services<br />
9
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
NEXT STEPS AND KEY CONSIDERATIONS<br />
So what are <strong>the</strong> next steps and key considerations, should <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> take <strong>the</strong> decision to go ahead with a diamond<br />
certification system?<br />
Key actions are:<br />
• Develop a business case and advocacy strategy <strong>for</strong> corporate miners, if working at this level is deemed<br />
desirable.<br />
• Develop draft standards <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Certified Producers, and <strong>the</strong> necessary supporting Supplements.<br />
• Develop Rules <strong>for</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> Licensed Manufacturers and Buyers.<br />
• Develop a Manufacturers’ standard in <strong>the</strong> mid-term.<br />
• Conduct scoping studies to identify potential pilot sites including, and in addition to, those identified herein.<br />
Include fuller capacity assessments <strong>of</strong> producer organisations, and cost-benefit analyses based on proven<br />
productivity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> land, cost <strong>of</strong> production, quality and volume <strong>of</strong> production, contextual challenges.<br />
• Establish a team <strong>of</strong> specialists to define how <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Price and Premium should be<br />
determined.<br />
In all cases, key considerations are:<br />
• Recognise <strong>the</strong> ‘lootability’ and extra ‘corruptability’ potential <strong>of</strong> diamonds given <strong>the</strong> huge value that<br />
something so small and concealable can have 35 . Acknowledge that this lootability means that <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> will<br />
need to have a greater presence on <strong>the</strong> ground <strong>for</strong> monitoring diamond producers, especially at <strong>the</strong><br />
subsistence and micro-scales and especially during <strong>the</strong> washing seasons, <strong>for</strong> a more extended period <strong>of</strong> than<br />
that a typical agricultural certification process may require.<br />
• Recognise <strong>the</strong> greater financial risk posed by diamond mining ventures as opposed to gold mining and<br />
agriculture; a strategy <strong>for</strong> managing financial risk is essential, through, <strong>for</strong> example, proper prospecting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
land, ensuring legal title is obtained <strong>for</strong> a sufficient length <strong>of</strong> time, providing training in business<br />
management, and so on.<br />
• The development potential <strong>of</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond supply chain will be generally determined by <strong>the</strong> type<br />
<strong>of</strong> mine and <strong>the</strong> supply chain model pursued. Different models have different ownership structures, which<br />
create different opportunities and paths <strong>for</strong> empowerment, in particular, and vest control in different<br />
decision-makers in terms <strong>of</strong> how <strong>the</strong>se opportunities are navigated. Thinking about <strong>the</strong> supply chains in <strong>the</strong>se<br />
terms can help ensure optimal development benefits are delivered.<br />
• Incorporate lessons learned from o<strong>the</strong>r initiatives in <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> and in <strong>the</strong> diamond industry<br />
o Embrace an adaptive management approach to increasing <strong>the</strong> commercial viability <strong>of</strong> micro-and<br />
small producers, to allow <strong>for</strong> inevitable failures and set-backs.<br />
o Develop a long term strategy in recognition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> distance that many micro-producers will need to<br />
travel to be productive and functional organisations.<br />
• Consider how to remedy any incompatibilities between producers’ and manufacturers’ supply and capacity<br />
potentials and needs.<br />
Certifying a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> diamond is feasible and <strong>the</strong>re is a strong case to make that it can be a successful business<br />
model, as well as a positive <strong>for</strong>ce <strong>for</strong> development within <strong>the</strong> sector. However, obtaining adequate quality and<br />
quantity <strong>of</strong> supply, keeping <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> production to competitive levels, ensuring <strong>the</strong> backing <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> industry-at-large,<br />
and finding micro and small-scale partners who are able to come to compliance quickly will be <strong>the</strong> main challenges in<br />
bringing <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> certified diamonds to market. Given <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s proven record in benefitting millions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s farmers, it may be <strong>the</strong> first system that could indeed invert <strong>the</strong> wretched resource curse into a resource cure<br />
that brings dignity and development to <strong>the</strong> world’s diamond miners and communities.<br />
By Resource Consulting Services<br />
10
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
ENDNOTES<br />
1 ICA 2008.<br />
2 IFC Per<strong>for</strong>mance Standard 5, p. 18.<br />
3 FLO 2007b.<br />
4 FLO 2005.<br />
5 ARM 2007.<br />
6 http://www.transfairusa.org/content/about/overview.php, Accessed 23 rd November, 2008.<br />
7 http://www.transfairusa.org/content/about/overview.php, Accessed 23 rd November, 2008.<br />
8 Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />
9 Paraphrased from Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />
10 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 2.<br />
11 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 2-3.<br />
12 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 3.<br />
13 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 3.<br />
14 Alexander-Mohr, 2008, p. 3.<br />
15 The research was designed in consultation with Alexander-Mohr, who was concluding her study as RCS began, so enabling RCS to<br />
consider some <strong>of</strong> her findings.<br />
16 The principal research team was Estelle Levin and Harrison Mitchell <strong>of</strong> RCS Ltd., and Senior Associate, Dr. Magnus Macfarlane.<br />
Some case studies were done by Shawn Blore (Guyana, Brazil), Laurent Cartier (India), and Henry Thompson (Botswana Cutting and<br />
Polishing). Editorial and writing contributions were given by Fay Warrilow, and statistical support was given by Alex Neumuller.<br />
Harrison Mitchell undertook Field Trips to Sierra Leone, South Africa and China. Dr. Macfarlane was responsible <strong>for</strong> LSM desk-work,<br />
Mwadui Case <strong>Study</strong>, and quality control. Estelle Levin was team leader. In total, over 100 people were interviewed or surveyed in<br />
<strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> doing <strong>the</strong> research.<br />
17 Various analytical and data collection tools were designed and employed and are presented as annexes to <strong>the</strong> report.<br />
18 Marine diamond mining and nationalised diamond operators were not considered.<br />
19 The ‘micro-mining’ sector here refers to artisanal, but organized, operations that work in a number <strong>of</strong> different <strong>for</strong>ms specific to<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir geographies and environments. Micro producers are distinguished from artisanal miners on <strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir operations being<br />
more mechanised, capital intensive, organised and altoge<strong>the</strong>r more pr<strong>of</strong>essional. None<strong>the</strong>less, where <strong>the</strong> report speaks <strong>of</strong><br />
‘artisanal miners’ it also includes those miners who may own or mine <strong>for</strong> micro producer organisations. Small-scale mines are<br />
distinguished from micro-mines given <strong>the</strong>ir greater pr<strong>of</strong>essionalism, capitalisation, and production capacity.<br />
20 Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />
21 Alexander-Mohr judged that a moderate increase in price <strong>of</strong> 5-10% is all <strong>the</strong> market could endure, (2008, pp. 5-6).<br />
22 A proviso, <strong>of</strong> course, is that <strong>the</strong> small or medium-scale producer would have to demonstrate a clear development case and be an<br />
appropriate partner based on <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> principles and objectives.<br />
23 However, <strong>the</strong>re is a danger in developing countries <strong>of</strong> creating enclaves <strong>of</strong> privilege around mines, which participate in<br />
certification schemes, and this could create conflict (Anonymous participant at BGR pre-conference workshop on Certified Trading<br />
Chains in Mineral Production at Fatal Transaction’s and BICC’s conference, Private Companies and Emerging Economies in Zones <strong>of</strong><br />
Conflict, Bonn, Germany, 20 th November, 2008. With regard to developed countries, a development case could be argued to work<br />
with large-scale mines which impact indigenous groups, where <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong>’s involvement could demonstrably empower <strong>the</strong>se<br />
groups. <strong>Diamond</strong> mining in Canada, Australia and Russia impacts on Indigenous Peoples. See Crate, 2008; Roberts, 2007; Hookimaw<br />
2008; Rio Tinto, 2008c.<br />
24 The exception here may be <strong>the</strong> ef<strong>for</strong>ts by <strong>the</strong> Groupe d’Appui aux Exploitants des Ressources Naturelles (GAERN) in DRC, which<br />
has been attempted to organise and support fifteen artisanal diamond Cooperatives since 2005. It is perhaps too early to judge in<br />
what ways <strong>the</strong>ir ef<strong>for</strong>ts have or have not been successful, but more attention is merited. (Hund, 2008).<br />
25 Cf. Levin & Gberie, 2006; Levin with Turay, 2008; Mitchell, Garrett & Levin, 2008.<br />
26 For general discussion on this point, see Auty, 1993.<br />
27 In partnership with <strong>the</strong> Shell Foundation, M&S has done such a thing to enable it to source from small cotton farmers in India.<br />
See Killigan, 2008.<br />
28 Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />
29 Alexander-Mohr, 2008.<br />
11
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY December 2008<br />
<strong>Feasibility</strong> <strong>Study</strong> <strong>for</strong> a <strong>Fair</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> Standard and Certification System<br />
30 See glossary. Note that ARM’s standard <strong>for</strong> artisanal gold would make an excellent starting point given <strong>the</strong> extensive consultation<br />
<strong>the</strong>y have done over a <strong>the</strong>re year period with artisanal and micro-miners, government <strong>of</strong>ficials, local authoritie, consultants, and<br />
academics.<br />
31 See www.fess-global.org/tiffany.cfm#MainBody<br />
32 See Levin with Turay, 2008; MSI, 2007; Temple, 2007; Tutushaus et al., 2007.<br />
33 De Beers and Petra <strong>Diamond</strong>s, 2008.<br />
34 For example, many have concentrated on <strong>the</strong> cooperative model. Evidence suggests that cooperatives are certainly viable, but<br />
must be carefully adapted from existing local structures and be developed with careful controls and a lot <strong>of</strong> capacity-building<br />
support if <strong>the</strong>y are not to fail. See Levin with Turay, Blore, 2008; Vlassenroot & Van Bockstael, 2008. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, prospecting and<br />
proper cost-benefit analyses are required to prevent commercial failure.<br />
35 Lujala et al., 2003; Le Billon, 2007; Reno, 1995.<br />
12