Times of the Islands Spring 2015

TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2015 NO. 110
EPIC LAND & SEA ADVENTURE
Local charities benefit
PIRATES AND ROYALTY
Caicos Cays their common ground
A GREEN ECONOMY
Can TCI remain beautiful by nature?

PARALLEL23
THE COOL SIDE
OF CLASSIC
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WISH
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Sometimes you need
to
GET AWAY
GET TOGETHER
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Island Waterpark, complete with 10 waterslides and a surf simulator, while you can freely soak up the sun and relax on Grace Bay, voted one
of the world’s best beaches. At the end of the day, come together and recount the excitement over a delicious meal with drinks always on the
house at one of Beaches Turks & Caicos’ 20 gourmet restaurants. Best of all, at Beaches everything is unlimited and included—even the fun!
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Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is the affiliate of the worldwide representative of Beaches Resorts.

contents
Departments
10 From the Editor
15 Around the Islands
Sailing Like Johnny Depp
By Tim Cotroneo
20 Eco-Business
A Green Economy
Story & Photos By Kathleen Wood
75 Faces & Places
Valentine’s Day Cup 2014
Photos By Marisa Findlay Photography
76 The Sporting Life
A Celebration of Sports
By Kathy Borsuk ~
Photos By Ileana Ravasio, Attimi Photography
82 Shape Up
Bite into a Healthy Lifestyle
By Tamika Handfield
Breathe
By Edward Shearer
84 About the Islands/TCI Map
89 Where to Stay
91 Dining Out
94 Classified Ads/Subscription Form
Features
38 Sociable Shark Stanley
By Tina Randall & Jackie Walker
42 Operation SCOLP
By John Galleymore
Photos By Steve Passmore–Provo Pictures
57 The Cays, A Pirate, and A Countess
By Dr. Charlene Kozy
TIMES
OF THE
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2015 NO. 110
On the Cover
Steve Passmore of Provo Pictures
(www.provopictures.com) captured this action shot of
adventurer John Galleymore during his epic journey
from South Caicos to Providenciales. John walked over
land when possible, then piled his gear into an inflatable
cooler to swim the sea crossings. See the whole
story on page 42.
42
ISLANDS
Green Pages
28 Hidden Pillars of the Economy
By Emily Stokes & Heidi Hertler
32 Burn, Baby Burn
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco
36 Kew to Kew Connection
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco
Astrolabe
66 A Link to the Past
By Dr. Donald H. Keith
Photos By Mendel Peterson
70 Clandestine Fields
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco
STEVE PASSMORE–PROVO PICTURES
6 www.timespub.tc

Turks And Caicos
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Real Estate
Mandalay Villa
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Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
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o
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conveyancing, immigration, licensing, company
and trust formation and estate planning. In 2000
(“TCP”) taking the lead on sales and dividing
real estate business. Since then, based on
buyer) exceeding US$100 million. Her gross
experience and up-to-the-minute information
provides a platform for quality service that you
can count on every time.
TCP is the leading independent real estate
Grace Bay Rd., at Ocean Club West and at the
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TURKS & CAICOS PROPERTY
Boutique Real Estate Brokerage

THE
closer
YOU LOOK
AT WHAT WE INCLUDE FOR
COUPLES
THE
better
WE LOOK
SANDALS ® RESORTS INCLUDE: More land & water sports (even waterskiing) with complimentary instruction & equipment • Unlimited
rounds of golf • Unlimited scuba diving for certified divers • Unlimited Gourmet Discovery Dining at up to 16 restaurants per resort
• Exclusive dine-around program • Up to 9 bars per resort • Unlimited premium brand liquors and Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks wines
• Stay at one, play at any Sandals† • A Free Beautiful Beginnings wedding • Unique Love Nest Dream Suites • English Guild-trained
butlers & concierges for top-tier suites • Poolside & beachside cocktail valet service • Basic Wi-Fi • Long distance phone calls†
for Club Sandals guests • The Caribbean’s best beaches • Offshore island adventures • Tipping, transfers, government taxes & more
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS ON THE PLANET
The Luxury Included ® Vacation
1-888-SANDALS
SANDALS.COM
OR CALL YOUR TRAVEL AGENT
JAMAICA • ANTIGUA • SAINT LUCIA • BAHAMAS • GRENADA • BARBADOS
Amenities vary by resort. For Sandals, green fees may be additional at Sandals Emerald Bay. In Jamaica and Saint Lucia, caddies are mandatory, but not included.
For Beaches, transfers included from Beaches Ocho Rios only. Adult must accompany children under 16. †Conditions apply.

THE
closer
YOU LOOK
AT WHAT WE INCLUDE FOR
FAMILIES
THE
better
WE LOOK
TM/© 2015 Sesame Workshop
BEACHES ® RESORTS INCLUDE: More land & water sports (even waterskiing) with complimentary instruction & equipment • Unlimited scuba diving
for certified divers • Unlimited rounds of golf • Unlimited Gourmet Discovery Dining at up to 20 restaurants per resort • Up to 13 bars per resort
• Unlimited premium brand liquors and Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks wines • A Free Beautiful Beginnings wedding • English Guild-trained
butlers for top-tier suites • Poolside & beachside cocktail valet service • The Caribbean’s best beaches • Accredited nannies all day and
into the night for all ages • Spacious family-sized suites • Sesame Street ® characters • Kids camp and teen activities • Teen beach shack &
Liquid nightclub • Xbox Play Lounge • Spectacular waterparks with slides & surf simulator • Tipping, transfers, government taxes & more
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD
TURKS & CAICOS • JAMAICA
1-888-BEACHES
BEACHES.COM
OR CALL YOUR TRAVEL AGENT
A Beautiful Beginnings wedding is free with stays of 3 paid nights or more in all room categories. All weddings are subject to mandatory marriage officiant and government documentation fees, which vary by island.
All fees subject to change at any time without prior notice. Sandals ® and Beaches ® are registered trademarks. Unique Vacations, Inc. is the affiliate of the worldwide representative of Sandals and Beaches Resorts.

from the editor
MARTA MORTON
This lovely flower bursts with passion from a Turks Head cactus.
Passion!
Passion! That is the over-riding emotion brimming
from the pages of this issue. Each contributor has a passion
for some aspect of the Turks & Caicos Islands. Most
visible is adventurer John Galleymore’s goal to journey
from South Caicos to Providenciales unsupported (no aid
in transport, water, or food). Along the way, he gained
great appreciation for the Caicos Islanders who had no
choice but to make such trips in days past. He also used
the adventure to raise a lot of money for local charities.
Both Kathleen Wood and Naqqi Manco have demonstrated
their passion for the TCI environment for many,
many years. In this issue, Kathleen discusses the challenge
of keeping the country “Beautiful by Nature” in the
face of financial challenges. Naqqi’s work is typically
hands-on. He spends a lot of time in the wilds of the
Caicos Islands, and here documents local farming tradi-
tions, along with work on the all-important Caicos Pine
Recovery Project.
The passion of Dr. Donald Keith, president of the TCI
National Museum Foundation, is focused on local history—documenting,
describing, preserving. In this issue’s
Astrolabe, he shares some fascinating photos of a 1955
expedition to South Caicos. Dr. Charlene Kozy is another
long-time contributor who likes to dig into the past. She’s
outdone herself with a fascinating tale of pirates and royalty
on the Caicos Cays.
My passion is presenting the Turks & Caicos Islands
to readers of this magazine. There is so much to learn
and discover. Enjoy!
Kathy Borsuk, Editor
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788
10 www.timespub.tc

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Email: services@tcbc.tc • www.tcbc.tc
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At Sandals ® Resorts,
having the freedom
to do everything
gives you
the freedom to do
nothing at all.
JAMAICA ° ANTIGUA ° SAINT LUCIA ° BAHAMAS ° GRENADA ° BARBADOS

®
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN
ANY OTHER RESORTS ON THE PLANET
1-888-SANDALS ° SANDALS.COM
OR CALL YOUR TRAVEL AGENT
Sandals ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is the affiliate of the worldwide representative of Sandals Resorts.

RASHAWD ESIGNS.com
TIMES
MANAGING EDITOR
Kathy Borsuk
OF THE
ISLANDS
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Claire Parrish
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Amy Avenant, Kathy Borsuk, Tim Cotroneo,
John Galleymore, Tamika Handfield, Heidi Hertler,
Dr. Donald H. Keith, Dr. Charlene Kozy, B Naqqi Manco,
Tina Randall, Edward Shearer, Emily Stokes, Jackie Walker,
Candianne Williams, Kathleen Wood.
Love your home
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Janet Belisle, Marisa Findlay Photography, John Galleymore,
Heidi Hertler, Dr. Donald H. Keith, Dr. Charlene Kozy,
B Naqqi Manco, National Maritime Museum, Marta Morton,
Tina Randall, Paradise Photography,
Steve Passmore–Provo Pictures, Mendel Peterson,
Ileana Ravasio–Attimi Photography, David Stone,
Sun Charters, Turks & Caicos Sotheby’s International
Realty, David Volkert, Jackie Walker, Candianne Williams,
Katheen Wood.
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Wavey Line Publishing
PRINTING
Franklin-Dodd Communications, Hialeah, FL
Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is
published quarterly by Times Publications Ltd.
Copyright © 2015 by Times Publications Ltd. All rights reserved
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No part of this publication may be
reproduced without written permission.
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14 www.timespub.tc

around the islands
The 77-foot schooner Atabeyra offers visitors and residents a taste of TCI paradise.
Sailing Like Johnny Depp
A day on the water in a former rum runner.
By Tim Cotroneo ~ Photos Courtesy Sun Charters
It’s not every day you’re given the opportunity to sail on a rum runner in the Turks & Caicos Islands. The
mere thought of hopping aboard a 77-foot schooner in the heart of the Caribbean’s bluest waters conjures
images right out of a Johnny Depp movie. On a brilliant Sunday afternoon in Providenciales, twelve
adventurous souls did exactly that when they took off on Dave Douglas’ Atabeyra for a four-hour tour.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 15

When Dave Douglas moved from the Bahamas to
Providenciales in 1992, he began hauling rum, beer, and
who knows what else between Turks & Caicos and the
Dominican Republic. After keeping a close eye on the
surging Providenciales tourist trade, Douglas christened
Sun Charters tours in 1998 and started transporting wideeyed
tourists on sailing excursions full-time.
For the well-traveled sailor, the Atabeyra is a boat he
and his wife Jenny literally built with their bare hands. The
schooner’s two towering masts came from pine trees
grown in the forest just outside the Douglas’s former New
Orleans home.
Sun Charters is a diversion for vacationers flocking to
Providenciales’ Grace Bay Beach, a destination commonly
ranked as the most beautiful beach in the Caribbean.
When these beachcombers get restless and wish to see
one of the other islands and cays making up the Turks &
Caicos chain, that’s when they turn to Douglas and his
crew.
What many of these remote islands lack in refinement,
they make up for in sheer beauty. Enter the words
“most beautiful private Caribbean island” into a search
engine and this is exactly what Atabeyra passengers
experience during their snorkeling tour.
Beyond Grace Bay
Today’s version of the Douglas’s sailing business is running
full speed ahead. On most days during TCI’s high
season of November through June, the Atabeyra sails
twice per day. Its crew of Tibi Gula and Junior Relis operate
half-day snorkeling tours, sunset cruises, and private
charters. Twice a month and three days after a full moon,
Sun Charters also offers an excursion dubbed the Glow
Worm Sunset. This exotic tour features the phosphorescent
mating ritual of male and female worms floating on
the surface of the sea.
JoJo and happy juice
On today’s excursion, the dynamic duo of Tibi and Junior
explain to guests what to anticipate during the next four
hours. Junior concluded his talk by saying, “What makes
each excursion special is you should also expect the
unexpected.”
Almost on cue, a passenger pointed to a dark object
swimming 30 feet from the Atabeyra’s stern. Junior
exclaimed, “There’s JoJo and he’s got a girlfriend.” JoJo is
Turks & Caicos’ most famous mammal, a dolphin known
for swimming solo and loving the company of humans.
After four hours of enjoying TCI’s aqua seas and pristine beaches, Atabeyra guests change from strangers to friends.
16 www.timespub.tc

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Today, JoJo greeted the Atabeyra with a companion that
Junior determined was a female. Perhaps JoJo’s potential
romance had something to do with the Atabeyra name
which means the “Goddess of Fertility.”
The passengers feverishly shot photos of the congenial
JoJo until he submerged after 10 minutes of
frolicking. Junior felt this close encounter was reason to
celebrate. He suggested that the best way to honor JoJo’s
appearance was by sipping an orange rum concoction he
referred to as Happy Juice.
Pine Cay paradise
After another five minutes of sailing, Captain Tibi
anchored the boat and explained the ground rules for an
hour of optimum snorkeling. Passengers who chose to
plunge into the crystal clear sea witnessed a wealth of
coral and fish particular to this region of the Caribbean.
When the snorkelers hoisted themselves back on
deck, Tibi explained that the Atabeyra’s next stop would
be Pine Cay. Located about 30 minutes by boat from
Providenciales, this private island of powder white
beaches and calm turquoise waters is home to The
Meridian Club, a 13-room resort, and 38 private homes.
We luxuriated for an hour in Pine Cay’s shallow waters.
This serene departure could best be described as paradise
found.
Tradewinds Radio
104.5
FM
What would Johnny Depp do?
On the way back to Atabeyra’s home port at The Blue
Haven Resort and Marina, it was time for the passengers
to reflect. You didn’t need Happy Juice to keep from smiling
after a relaxing day of sailing, a JoJo sighting, and a
wonderful escape to the shores of Pine Cay.
Around 4:00 in the afternoon, the Atabeyra docked,
and passengers who began the day as strangers ended
their journey as friends. As the last guest stepped upon
the Blue Haven dock, the 1970s disco song “Good Times”
played softly from the Atabeyra sound system.
If you’re ever asked to sail on a rum runner in the
Turks & Caicos Islands, you’ll be missing a good time if
you say anything but “yes.” How many opportunities do
you get to star in a scene that usually headlines Johnny
Depp? ❁
tel 431.7527
The Sound
of the Tropics
claire@tradewindsradio.com
For more information, visit www.suncharters.tc
Tim Cotroneo is a freelance writer specializing in
Caribbean travel, business, and golf. Visit www.timcotroneo.com.
18 www.timespub.tc

Visit
THE CAICOS CONCH FARM
WE GROW
CONCH & FISH
Monday - Friday: 9am - 4pm
Saturday: 9am - 2.30pm
Closed: Sundays
Adults $12.00
Children $10.00
Leeward Highway, Leeward, Providenciales
Phone: (649) 946-5330

eco-business
Opposite page: The unassuming shores of West Caicos lie beside some of the country’s most spectacular wall diving.
Above: This curious yellow warbler flits through Salt Cay’s bush.
A Green Economy
Can the dream of sustainability become reality?
Story & Photos By Kathleen Wood
In November 2014, a two-day Green Economy workshop was held in order to identify environmental priorities
in TCI. Representatives from government, science, watersports, fisheries, local communities, and
tourism met to discuss what current policies are working well for TCI’s environment and what further work
is needed to foster sustainability.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 21

The people of the Turks & Caicos Islands (TCI) have a
vision for the country, and it is one in which its fragile
ecosystems are protected and cherished. Here is what
they see in the future, based on comments from workshop
participants:
“Beautiful by nature” is no longer just a brand but a clear
statement of our core values. We recognise the importance
of the natural environment for humans and nature
and understand its vulnerability. That knowledge is
embedded into society, the decisions we make and action
we take.”
“We depend on our local environment for many benefits
including food and clean water, cultural and economic
opportunities, and mental and physical wellbeing. These
benefits are enjoyed by all.”
“Our stunning natural beauty, wildlife and cultural heritage
is treasured, protected and enhanced. We have
beautiful clean beaches, wetlands teeming with wildlife
and a clean and healthy marine environment. Our protected
areas on land and sea are in great condition and
support a rich diversity of local plants and animals.”
“We have vibrant sustainable economic development and
communities guided by a Strategic Sustainable
Development Plan, strong environmental policies and a
clear planning framework. Each island has a unique identity
with any new development or change fitting in with its
character and surroundings.”
“Our values and action ensure permanent and thriving
tourism and low-density eco-tourism is bringing in new
visitors. All new tourism development is environmentally
sustainable and makes a significant contribution to the
local economy, local communities, local people and local
business.”
“We have transitioned to sustainable energy, water and
waste management and transport is low-carbon and efficient.
Locally produced food is enjoyed by the whole
community and there is a flourishing, well managed and
sustainable fishing industry benefiting local fishermen
and their communities.”
“A new TCI University enables further education in a
range of disciplines specifically geared towards TCI sustainable
development and tourism needs.”
From top: You know spring is near when the cacti dotting much of
TCI’s lush “bush” blooms. In November 2014, the first Green Economy
Workshop was held to identify environmental priorities and develop
action plans.
22 www.timespub.tc

The messages coming forth from the workshop and
stakeholders were clear and represented a consensus of
opinion. TCI’s economy is precipitously poised on maintaining
the country’s ecological assets, and as a country,
we must ensure the welfare of the environment is maintained
or face dire consequences. Limited natural
resources, poor topsoil, and scant rainfall limit TCI’s
potential for most industries; therefore, the natural
beauty of crystal-clear waters, white sand beaches, and
teeming coral reefs represent the country’s best saleable
commodities. Hotel and restaurant receipts alone directly
provide 34% of GDP, and indirect economic effects may
account for as much as 80% of the country’s economy
(Batas & Forbes, 2007).
Unfortunately, tourism and other development often
come with associated environmental costs. Resorts generate
solid waste and sewage effluents that can threaten
or kill marine organisms. Dredging for marinas can result
in physical destruction to and sedimentation of coral reefs
and seagrass beds, and rapid development can result in
the clear-cutting of pristine terrestrial habitats, resulting
in a loss of habitat for rare, threatened, endangered, and
endemic species. TCI is caught in a delicate balancing act
to foster economic development, while at the same time
ensuring that such activities do not compromise the environmental
values that underpin the entire economy.
TCI is not alone in this vulnerability. The United
Kingdom’s Overseas Territories (UKOTs) possess a staggering
94% of the UK’s endemic or unique species
(Churchyard et al., 2014), yet with few exceptions, these
small island states suffer from pandemic sustainable policy
failure (Mycoo, 2006). In order to address these
concerns, the UK’s Joint Nature Conservation Committee
(JNCC) launched an Environmental Mainstreaming or
“Green Economy” process in order to assist individual
UKOTs in identifying priority issues that would enable
countries to integrate environmental concerns into all
aspects of developmental decision-making.
In early 2014, the Ministry of Environment and Home
Affairs and Department of Environment and Maritime
Affairs (DEMA) expressed an interest in launching a TCI
Green Economy Project and were awarded permission to
do so. The process was fully funded by the UK Foreign
and Commonwealth Office (FCO), Department for Food
and Rural Affairs (Defra) and JNCC, and preliminary work
on the project commenced in October 2014.
Dialogue Matters, a U.K.-based company that aims to
transform the way people work together around the management
and use of the natural environment, was
FClxtÜá
Assisting domestic and international clients for over 30 years
Tel + 1 649 946 4602 • Fax + 1 649 946 4848
Email reception@savory-co.com • Website www.savory-co.com
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 23

awarded the contract for the project. Dialogue Matters
was established in 2000 and specializes in delivering the
best possible stakeholder dialogue, using a participatory
and user-friendly approach to research and reporting.
Their workshops are intended to inspire environmental
action and to foster momentum to transform how stakeholders
engage with one another as they steer towards
best practices.
The first order of business was an exhaustive review
of existing environmental research, legislation, and
capacity of government and non-government organizations.
A total of 42 documents were reviewed in this
process and a spreadsheet of environmental inventory
and gaps was developed.
Next, a project oversight group (POG) was appointed,
with members from key stakeholder groups, such as government,
the private sector, and non-governmental
organizations. In a separate workshop for POG members,
key environmental issues and stakeholders were identified.
Finally, a workshop with 32 attendees took place in
November. Through a series of hands-on activities and
discussion sessions, participants identified key environmental
priorities and developed action plans to
implement them. The priorities identified by workshop
participants included:
• Developing and implementing a sustainable
National Physical Development plan to inform island-specific
and national strategic development and spatial
planning;
• Implementing a programme for sustainable waste
management and recycling;
• Enhancing environmental understanding and education
at all levels;
• Procuring a sustainable source of funding, capacity,
knowledge, and skills to manage the natural
environment more effectively;
• Developing and implementing a sustainable behaviour
action plan;
• Implementing sustainable energy use; and
• Determining mechanisms for non-governmental
organizations (NGOs), government, and the private sector
to work together more effectively, including
establishing a new NGO to forward all environmental
objectives.
With these seven priorities clearly identified and
agreed upon, it is now up to the people of TCI to move
these matters forward. While some of the priorities will
involve identifying funding sources, work towards some
This lovely church overlooks vast Bottle Creek in North Caicos.
of the above initiatives is already underway. A Green
Economy Working Group (GEWG) was established and met
for the first time on January 29, 2015, and another meeting
took place on February 5 to commence work on
establishing a dedicated environmental NGO. Discussions
are underway to improve solid waste management in TCI,
including a discussion on banning plastic bags and
Styrofoam packaging. Some GEWG members are also
looking into how sustainable energy policy has been
implemented in other UKOTs.
A primary goal of the TCI Green Economy project is to
empower people from all walks of life to take ownership
of and responsibility for the environment that sustains us.
The ball is in our court. A green, beautiful by nature future
for TCI can be a reality. Workshop participants believe the
following can be achieved if we all work together:
“Providenciales is ‘Beautiful by nature, cared for by us.’
The island is well planned and managed with flourishing
low-density, high-end sustainable tourism. We have a
clean and well cared for environment with reduced waste,
pollution well managed, and renewable energy used both
in businesses and in homes. New development is low rise
and carefully planned and we have good drainage and
roads. Local people and communities are thriving and
24 www.timespub.tc

“On Middle Caicos the cultural heritage has been lovingly
and carefully preserved. Traditional crafts are
kept alive by local people who work together in community
based initiatives. Eco-tourism thrives with low
density accommodation and eco-lodges, all powered by
natural energy sources. Eco-trails thread through the
beautifully maintained landscape and the caves are well
looked after. The local people can sustain themselves
here on their island with no need to migrate for work.
Food is produced locally through agriculture and mariculture.”
Middle Caicos is well-known for its vast limestone cave system.
prosperous with better education, more small business,
and other employment opportunities. The Provo fishing
and fish farming cooperative brings economic benefit to
local people and communities. Native people have extensive
cultural and leisure facilities and good access to the
beaches. The natural and historic heritage of the island is
treasured, preserved and enjoyed by all.”
“South Caicos has a flourishing, sustainable, well protected,
and managed fishing industry. The fish
processing plant is owned cooperatively by fishermen
and provides for the domestic market. The combined
fishing and marine research and tourism centre protects
and monitors the marine and terrestrial
environment. The Salt Ponds are a key part of the
island’s tourism, attracting people to historical features
such as the salt pans and Boiling Hole, and there is clear
signage to explain and describe what is seen. The parks
around the salt ponds have nature trails with fabulous
bird-watching opportunities. There is also a thriving
watersport tourist industry on the island. Infrastructure
is good with the airport finished and upgraded and well
planned and well maintained waste and water management.
Schools and clinics enhance human wellbeing.”
“North Caicos is a lush green island and provides ‘the
agricultural heartbeat of TCI.’ The majority of the island
remains green and natural. There is flourishing agriculture
(including organic farms) that provide food for the
islands and reduce the need for fruit and vegetable
imports. An Agriculture Centre carries out research into
new techniques and supports the farmers. There is also
sustainable fish farming to take the pressure off the natural
areas. Education provides new opportunities in
agriculture and fishing. The heritage of the island is
showcased and cared for. Museums and national gardens
preserve and celebrate traditional skills (sisal production
and corn grinding) and the diversity of plants and wildlife
is celebrated in show gardens. The infrastructure such as
schools, roads, the airport, and clinic provide better quality
of life for local people. Tourism is low key, with
eco-tourism, boutique hotels, and guest houses.”
Saint George’s Parish Church on South Caicos is one of the Islands’
oldest buildings.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 25

“Grand Turk is a fitting
capital of the TCI with a
complete regeneration,
restoration, and rejuvenation.
The built areas are
well-maintained and welllandscaped
and historic
features restored, interpreted,
and treasured.
Grand Turk is clean and
garbage-free and the large
feral domestic animal population
is contained and
managed humanely. The
salt ponds and mangroves
are unpolluted and support
fish and bird life. Cruise ship and tourism tours are
conducted in an environmental way which shows and educates
people about the unique natural beauty and
heritage. The economy has diversified and provides long
term employment and business opportunities for local
people. Transport and energy is sustainable and low carbon,
based on alternative energy and electric vehicles,
walking, and cycling. Clean energy technology has been
incorporated into all commercial, public, and residential
property. Tourism is thriving with medium scale development
offering more tourism accommodation.”
“Salt Cay is an island which is promoted and known for its
heritage and historic and cultural tourism. All the historic
buildings and features have been refurbished and the
White House has been restored as a historic centre. Other
heritage buildings are used for arts, crafts, and cafes and
visitors can enjoy local foods like Salt Cay candies. The
salt pans and history are preserved and there are historic
walks which bring the heritage of the island to life for visitors.
Tourism is low key and of a ‘Martha’s Vineyard’
type providing employment for local people. Whale watching
draws in other tourists and is well regulated.”
A preliminary TCI Green Economy website has been
established at http://tcigreeneconomy.weebly.com. Any
person interested in participating in the TCI Green
Economy Working Group should contact Kathleen Wood
at kw@swa.tc in order to be added to the Working Group
mailing list. ❁
Sources Cited
Batas, M., & Forbes, K. (2007). National Accounts Statistics In D.
From top: Grand Turk’s historic Front Street and Salt Cay’s rugged
landscape reflect centuries of island history, from Colonial days to the
salt-raking era.
o. E. P. a. Statistics (Ed.), (pp. 80). Turks and Caicos Islands:
Statistical Office - Department of Economic Planning and
Statistics, Turks and Caicos Islands Government.
Churchyard, T., Eaton, M., Hall, J., Millett, J., Farr, A., Cuthbert, R.,
& Stringer, C. (2014). The UK's wildlife overseas: a stocktake of
nature in our Overseas Territories. In R. S. f. t. P. o. Birds (Ed.),
(pp. 76). Sandy, U.K.: Royal Society of the Protection of Birds.
Mycoo, M. (2006). Sustainable Tourism Using Regulations,
Market Mechanisms and Green Certification: A Case Study of
Barbados. Journal of Sustainable Tourism, 14(5), 489-411. doi:
10.2167/jost600.0
26 www.timespub.tc

green pages
newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
head office: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895
• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710
• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales
parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793
fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc
Healthy reef systems support millions of species of marine life.
Hidden Pillars
of the Economy
Studying, monitoring, and protecting TCI’s coral reefs.
By Emily Stokes and Heidi Hertler, School for Field Studies Center for Marine Resource Studies
Photos By Heidi Hertler
Coral reefs are among the most biologically diverse and highly productive ecosystems on Earth. Whilst
they cover a mere 1% of the Earth’s surface, their contribution to the global economy is estimated at
close to $10 billion/year in tourism and recreation, $9 billion/year in coastal protection and $6 billion/year
in both fisheries and biodiversity (http://coralreef.noaa.gov). Despite the ecological complexity
and high biodiversity of coral reefs and the ecosystems associated with them, they are particularly sensitive
to impacts from a series of phenomena (climate change, storms, current pattern changes) and
anthropogenic activities.
28 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
In the case of Caribbean reefs, the most significant
damage is attributed to coral diseases, hurricanes, mass
mortality of the herbivorous long-spine sea urchin
(Diadema antillarum), localized human impacts, recent
bleaching events, and climate change. These drivers of
change have caused dramatic phase shifts to systems
dominated by macroalgae and other nuisance species,
fields of unstable coral rubble, loss of three-dimensional
structure, and increases in abundance of shorter-lived
brooding corals such as Agaricia and Porites. In addition,
overfishing of exploitable reef species, sedimentation and
water pollution from on-shore development and population
growth, as well as global climate change combine with
natural phenomena to create a situation on a global scale
where near shore marine systems are under increasing
stress. As a result, coral reefs are at risk of a death by a
thousand cuts; therefore it is critical to establish comprehensive
coastal management plans to curtail and prevent
the destruction of these critical habitats, which are likely
irreplaceable.
Located at the southern tail of the Bahamian archipelago,
the Turks & Caicos Islands (TCI) are indeed “Beautiful
by Nature.” The TCI is comprised of four banks, of which
only two are inhabited, with eight main islands and numerous
tiny cays. The extensive reef system surrounding the
country not only protects adjacent shorelines from wave
action and prevents erosion and property damage, but
most importantly, supports the TCI economy directly and
indirectly, through fisheries—specifically spiny lobster
(Panulirus argus) and the queen conch (Strombus gigas),
which are the staples of the local fishing industry — and
tourism. Recognizing the critical importance of coastal
marine systems, the TCI has established an extensive network
of 34 protected areas, incorporating critical marine
habitats, such as reefs, mangroves, seagrass beds, and
sand banks, and the faunal communities they support.
On South Caicos, a unique opportunity to study and
monitor long-term environmental changes was seized
upon by The School for Field Studies’ Center for Marine
Resource Studies (SFS CMRS). The School for Field Studies
(SFS) is a US-based academic institution that provides mul-
SFS staff member Emily Stokes leads student survey teams.
tidisciplinary, field-based environmental study abroad
opportunities to undergraduate university students. Each
SFS program (nine in total) highlights a different region of
the world, with its own distinct cultural and ecological
characteristics and unique environmental challenges.
Faculty and students at the SFS CMRS on South Caicos
work in close cooperation with local partners including the
TCI’s Department of Environment and Maritime Affairs
(DEMA), TCReef Inc. (www.tcreef.org), and local fishermen
and processing plants to protect and enhance the management
of the island’s coral reefs and other marine
resources. SFS CMRS recognizes the importance of studying
climate change impacts on local ecosystems by
including related projects in program and research components.
Likely, and already observed, impacts of climate
change to marine and coastal ecosystems include those
linked to temperature change on organism metabolism,
water chemistry including carbonate cycle, precipitation
change on water balance, and wind and water circulation
pattern changes. Long term data collection is a crucial ele-
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 29

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
SFS research shows that the South Caicos reef system approaches 15% live coral cover, and is dominated by star corals (shown above), sea
rods and sheet corals.
ment of observing and understanding such impacts, beneficial
to stakeholders and essential to policy makers.
As it is, the effects of climate change increase the burden
on already stressed ecosystems. Ocean acidification,
a result of carbon dioxide (CO2) being absorbed by the
ocean and in turn altering the pH of the water, is slowing
hard corals’ ability to grow and leaving them more susceptible
to diseases. Sea surface temperatures have been
rising steadily over the past century (http://ocean.nationalgeographic.com/ocean/critical-issues-sea-temperatur
e-rise) placing additional stress on many coral species.
When corals become too stressed by the changes to their
surrounding environment, they expel an internal photosynthetic
alga called zooxanthellae, which deprives them
of their normal colors, a phenomenon commonly referred
to as coral bleaching. Coral bleaching itself is not fatal, as
it is possible for the corals to recover and reabsorb the
expelled zooxanthellae, but such reabsorption does not
always occur and bleaching leaves corals more vulnerable
to contract fatal diseases.
On South Caicos, SFS CMRS faculty and staff lead
teams of students to collect baseline data on the health of
the local reef system. Sites were permanently marked at
three depths in the Admiral Cockburn Land and Sea
National Park so they could be revisited. The research
team uses several methods to assess the overall condition
of the system. The methods include measuring species
composition (number of different organisms observed)
using the Atlantic and Gulf Rapid Reef Assessment protocol
(AGRRA – www.agrra.org), documenting and
recording fish species abundance (including the invasive
lionfish), and photographing and videoing the benthic
community for composition analysis using specialized
software. An increasingly important part of long term reef
studies is the assessment of coral bleaching. SFS CMRS
uses a method that is easily transferable to citizen scientists
(non-specialists) and could be replicated on other
islands. Coral bleaching is documented using the
CoralWatch card system (Siebeck et al. 2006), which allows
the researchers to record coral bleaching data quantitatively
for analysis and documentation.
The data collected as part of this project are promising,
as patterns are starting to emerge over time and
among sites. The benthic (sub-surface) community
30 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
SFS student uses photographs to document the sub-sea community.
approaches 15% live coral cover and is dominated by sea
rods (Pseudoplexaura spp.), star corals (Monastraea spp.),
and sheet corals (Agaricia spp.). In general, sites with
greater amounts of live coral have the greatest fish abundance
and sites surveyed closer to the main shipping
channel have the lowest live coral cover, suggesting an
anthropogenic impact in this area.
This research is producing exciting results and its continuation
through the five-year plan should provide even
stronger patterns of baseline data. The Center for Marine
Resource Studies on South Caicos is the only program currently
carrying out research on the reefs in this area; it is
imperative to continue collecting data to create a complete
picture of regional and global coral health. With such
promising results, this research approach could continue
beyond the five-year plan to create a long-term reef-monitoring
program.
Healthy reefs are crucial pillars of a healthy planet and
a healthy economy. Without them, fish stocks will continue
to decline, tourism will be negatively impacted, and other
ecosystems will be irreparably altered. The incentives for
a healthier ocean and a healthier earth are self-evident,
and it behooves us to continue studying and protecting
the species, such as coral reefs, that support our lives. ❁
To learn more about the SFS program, go to
http://www.fieldstudies.org/tci.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 31

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
This is a flourishing Caicos pine Pinus caribaea var. bahamensis with open and closed cones.
Burn, Baby Burn
Second controlled burn in Middle Caicos pineyard a success
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, Caicos Pine Recovery Project Manager
Following the excellent results of TCI’s first controlled burn in the Middle Caicos pineyard in May,
2012 (see Times of the Islands, Fall 2012 “A Burning Desire”), a second controlled burn was carried out
on December 9, 2014 as part of the Caicos Pine Recovery Project’s ongoing work.
32 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
The second controlled burn was conducted on an
area just under two acres in size, located several hundred
metres south of the first burn plot in an area of relatively
healthy pine trees. Despite the pine yard being severely
flooded from Hurricane Cristobal and subsequent rains,
the controlled burn went well — if supplying access challenges
— and the extra water will assist the pines in
recovering more quickly.
With oversight and training from the Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew’s United Kingdom Overseas Territories
Programme and the United States Forest Service, DEMA
team members learned valuable new skills and refreshed
past lessons.
Controlled burning is the deliberate use of fire on a
pre-determined and treated land area conducted for the
health of the pine forest. Controlled burning is done with
a strict Incident Command System in place, after the
selected site has been thoroughly prepared by the cutting
of firebreaks, analysis of fuels, and safety training.
Residents were alerted to the burn with radio announcements,
which proved effective.
The pine yards of North and Middle Caicos and Pine
Cay are part of a globally threatened habitat more widely
called pine rocklands, which only occur in Florida, the
Bahamas, and the Turks & Caicos Islands. They are firedependent
habitats dominated by one of a few species of
tropical pines, and they require periodical burning to
remain dominated by pine. Natural fires may be lightningignited,
but the history of humans in the Turks & Caicos
and Bahamas helped spread pine habitat, as the Lucayans
used fire to help them hunt game. The low-intensity fires
burn off pine needles and grasses, reducing the risk of
wildfire and replenishing important nutrients in the thin
soil, and the fire-adapted pine trees survive without difficulty.
Caicos pine, the National Tree of the Turks & Caicos
Islands, dominated the pine yards in North and Middle
Caicos and Pine Cay until an introduced invasive insect
called the pine tortoise scale killed over 95% of the pine
trees between 2005 and 2010. The controlled burn is part
of an effort to save the pine from extinction due to the
scale insect. (The Caicos pine Pinus caribaea variety
bahamensis should not be confused with the invasive
Australian pine or “cedar” Casuarina equisetifolia, which
is not a pine at all).
The December 2014 burn was conducted in a two-
From top: CPRP Nursery Maintenance Officer Junel “Flash” Blaise was
an expert ignition agent for the controlled burn, honing skills first
acquired in May 2012. Behind, volunteer Edgard Jean “holds the line,”
actively preventing the fire from crossing firebreak.
US Forest Service fire team makes their way through the flooded trail
to the new burn plot. The flood water went down just in time for the
burn, recharging the aquifer to allow the pines to recover from the
fire.
The fire team debriefs before the controlled burn. During this time, all
concerned government departments and medical services are notified,
while public is alerted by radio announcement.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 33

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
acre plot which contains some of the healthiest remaining
trees. The fire was held in by fire breaks and was overseen
by four experts who have over 50 combined years
and over one million combined acres of burn experience.
Some of these experts, Dr. Joe O’Brien and Ben Hornsby,
were on the team of the successful controlled burn in May
2012. Dr. Kevin Hiers and Thomas Walters of University of
the South joined the new burn event, bringing new perspectives
on fire management in TCI’s pine rockland
ecosystems.
Pine tree health improved markedly after the burn on
the 2012 site, with insect-stunted trees growing up
quickly, free from pests, and producing cones within a
year. The same is expected of the 2014 site. The fire was
ignited around noon on December 9 and was controlled
through the afternoon until it reached the firebreaks and
was extinguished. The following day, all remaining smouldering
material was doused.
The burn was used as a training and research opportunity.
Five people received training in controlled burning,
including three DEMA staff members, a DEMA intern, and
a Caicos Pine Recovery Project volunteer. Visiting
researchers took film of the fire, and recorded thermal
video images (revealing the burn temperatures averaging
700–800ºF and spiking to 1000ºF in sawgrass patches).
Time-lapse images are also being recorded over the next
six months to monitor the recovery of the burn plot.
Sapling trees were marked for post-fire survivorship tracking,
and work is ongoing to prepare new plots for further
controlled burns in May 2015. To allow interested persons,
tourists, and school groups to visit the area, a
hiking trail is currently being installed that will loop
through areas of former pine, several burn plots, and
adjacent broadleaf habitats. ❁
The controlled burn team includes members of the
Department of Environment and Maritime Affairs, Royal
Botanic Gardens, Kew, and the United States Forest
Service. Turks & Caicos Fire & Rescue, Environmental
Health Department, and Civil Aviation Department have
given their support of the exercise.
From top: Dr O’Brien captures temperature video of the fire behaviour,
which burned exactly as expected.
DEMA Intern Hoai Tran has a go at lighting a new fire line while ignition-experienced
Flash supervises.
The line of fire advances through the pine yard as prescribed.
For more information, visit the new Caicos pine exhibit at
the National Environmental Centre, Lower Bight Road,
Providenciales; also find the Caicos Pine Recovery Project
on Facebook and follow @KewUKOTs on Twitter.
34 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
Left: Just a few of the volunteers that turned for the World Wetlands Day, Wheeland Pond Clean-up on January, 31, 2015. Right: Never too
young or too old! These Grand Turk children are cleaning up their environment.
Working hand-in-hand to keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature”
By Amy Avenant, Environment Outreach Coordinator, DEMA
Robert Swan, the first person to walk both the North
and South Poles, said, “the greatest threat to our planet
is the belief that someone else will save it.” As this year
has been declared the “Year of the Environment,” here in
the TCI, the Department of Environment and Maritime
Affairs (DEMA), through the Community Conservation
Partnership Program, hopes to develop TCI’s own “green
consciousness” and get every member of the community
thinking about their action and impacts on the local
and regional environment.
In a time when “green consciousness” has become a
much-needed global trend, we still tend to take our natural
resources for granted, evident through the litter that
decorates our highways, algal growth on our coral reefs,
and our general complacency when faced with making
the “greener” choice. To keep these islands beautiful by
nature and to ensure rich biodiversity for the future we
need to save our planet. It is up to us, and only us.
DEMA will have a number of opportunities throughout
2015 for you and your friends and family to get
involved in conserving your environment. The first
event of the year, World Wetlands Day on February 2,
set the tone for an action-packed environmental calendar.
Together with the Turks & Caicos National Trust,
DEMA visited a number of schools in the Blue Hills area
to share the importance of wetlands to our islands.
Coupled with education, a much needed and well supported
wetland clean-up was held on January 31, 2015
at Wheeland Pond, in the heart of Blue Hills. The goal is
to ensure that it becomes an area of pride and interest
for the greater community.
Other opportunities to get involved include World
Planting Day (March 21, 2015), Earth Hour (March 28,
2015) and World Biodiversity Day (May 22, 2015) to
name a few. There is at least one activity each month
where you can make a difference to your environment
and be an example in your community.
If you would like to learn more about your environment
and conserving it, why not visit the National
Environmental Centre? Located on Lower Bight Road
across from the Bight Park, the centre is open to community
and school groups, tour operators and tourists.
We have loads of tips and information to share with you
about environmental consciousness and stewardship.
Opportunities to get involved are extended to our
family islands too, but it will take a community effort
to ensure that people understand the importance of
standing together to improve and conserve the Turks &
Caicos Islands’ natural heritage.
If you, your community group, or school would like
more information on how to get involved, or the full calendar
of activities for 2015, or if you would like to visit
the NEC or get in touch with a DEMA officer on your
island, please contact Amy Avenant (DEMA
Environmental Outreach Coordinator) on (649) 338
4176 or avenant.amy@gmail.com. Let’s change the
belief that someone else will save our islands and our
planet and begin to take matters into our own hands! ❁
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 35

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
TCI’s National Plant, the Turk’s head cacti, Melocactus intortus, produceds a lovely pink bloom.
Kew to Kew Connection
Native plant landscaping by world experts.
36 www.timespub.tc
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, Caicos Pine Recovery Project Manager
Kew, North Caicos takes its name from the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, in London — considered by
botanists to be the foremost botanical garden and plant research institution in the world. In December
2014, the Caicos Pine Recovery Project team included researchers from the United Kingdom Overseas
Territories Programme from Kew Gardens — all of whom had also graduated from Kew Gardens’ world
renowned Kew Diploma Course in Horticulture.

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
Though the Kew UKOTs team mostly carries out plant
conservation work in the 14 Overseas Territories of the
United Kingdom around the world, they retain their love
and expert knowledge of growing plants to please the
eye. Because native plants require less irrigation and fertilisation
and fewer pesticide treatments due to their
adaptation to the local conditions, a native plant garden
is both eye- and environmentally friendly, while providing
excellent local wildlife habitat.
The property of the old Social Welfare Rest House in
Kew, North Caicos, now the headquarters of the North
Caicos offices of DEMA, Department of Agriculture, and
the National Trust, had been falling into disrepair and was
becoming overrun by unkempt, pest-ridden ornamental
plants and invasive species. With design concepts from
their horticultural training, the Kew team led the removal
of invasive, overgrown, and diseased plants, replaced by
an ornamental garden comprising solely TCI native plants.
Installed were several hundred native plants, grown at the
DEMA Native Plant Biodiversity Conservation Nursery at
the Government Farm in North Caicos. These included
buccaneer palms Pseudophoenix sargentii, nakedback
Euphorbia gymnonota, and white powderpuff Zapoteca
formosa. The highlight of the landscape is several large
saplings of Caicos pine Pinus caribaea var. bahamensis,
TCI’s National Tree and the focus of the Caicos Pine
Recovery Project. The Caicos pines in this area can eventually
serve as the permanent living Christmas tree,
preventing the need to cut live trees from elsewhere. Also
included in the landscaping are several Turk’s head cacti
Melocactus intortus, TCI’s National Plant, and Turks &
Caicos heather Limonium bahamense, our National
Flower. Instead of mulch, the ground has been covered
by Caicos pine cones that were saved after three years of
seed collections.
Community response to the garden has been excellent
and it will serve as a model of native plant
landscaping in TCI. ❁
Selected native plants are available from DEMA’s Native
Plant Nursery at the Government Farm in Kew, North
Caicos.
Included in the Kew garden landscaping are several Turk’s head cacti,
Melocactus intortus.
DEMA’s Junel “Flash” Blaise and RBG Kew’s Marcella Corcoran plant
buccaneer palms.
The front garden features Caicos pine, pineyard plant wild coffee
Psychotria ligustrifolia, and the TCI endemic plant silvery silverbush
Argythamnia argentea.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 37

feature
DAVID VOLKERT
Healthy and biologically diverse shark populations are important to maintain the balance of marine life.
Sociable Shark Stanley
Swims to Turks & Caicos
Changing the perception of sharks one kid at a time.
By Tina Randall, BSc. Environmental Biology and
Jackie Walker, Master Conservation Biology, BSc. Marine Biology
It’s a bird! It’s a plane! It’s . . . Shark Stanley?!?! Do you have children in the Turks & Caicos school
system? If so, they might have shown you a self-colored picture of a cartoon shark named Stanley and
explained to you why healthy coral reefs need sharks. Or maybe you are visiting the TCI and would like
to know more about the creatures that live beneath these turquoise waters and what you can do to help
protect them. Either way, you should get acquainted with Shark Stanley and his island friends and learn
why sharks are important.
38 www.timespub.tc

Who exactly is Shark Stanley? Stanley is the face of
the global shark awareness campaign dedicated to creating
shark sanctuaries and supporting the proper
management of sharks and rays. Shark Stanley is the
brainchild of former Yale grad student Leah Meth and
shark conservationist Angelo Villagomez from The Pew
Charitable Trusts. They produced a book, The Adventures
of Shark Stanley and Friends, in which several shark characters
team up with kids to protect sharks. He has more
than a dozen friends, including a lemon shark from the
Turks & Caicos Islands! An updated version of the book is
being released in March 2015.
One of the big lessons Shark Stanley teaches is that
healthy reefs need sharks. What does a shark have to do
with coral reefs? Everything! Jackie Walker at Amanyara’s
Nature Discovery Center along with Amy Avenant at TCI’s
Department of Environment and Maritime Affairs (DEMA)
and other individuals are working with Stanley to increase
public awareness on why sharks are important to the
ocean and to The TCI.
Students at Oseta Jolly Primary School, Provo Primary
School, British West Indies Collegiate, TCI Middle School,
and the Edward Gartland Youth Centre have listened to
Stanley’s book and learned about sharks in TCI’s waters.
The student’s perception of sharks went from a fearful,
“sharks are scary, they eat humans,” to a more appreciative,
“sharks eat fish for balance, they save the ocean.” The
lessons also struck a chord with a teacher at Provo Primary
School who said afterwards, “As someone who is slowly
getting over a fear of the ocean and sharks in particular,
this is something I really want to get involved with.”
Shark Stanley has also been swimming about
Providenciales to various events and locations taking
“selfies” in the community. He has been to Long Bay, Blue
Hills, and even trick-or-treating! He handed out wristbands
and read his book to excited children with Santa. It
is not every day that you get the opportunity to hug a
happy hammerhead and tweet @tcisharks or instagram
#tcisharks.
Shark Stanley is trying to change the global perception
of sharks and to teach people to appreciate what
sharks do in an ocean that humans so heavily depend on.
Stanley also teaches us about the top predator’s key role
in the marine ecosystem. Sharks have been around for
450 million years and the ocean needs them. Healthy and
biologically diverse shark populations are important to
From top: After learning about the importance of sharks, students at
Oseta Jolly Primary School colored pictures of cartoon Shark Stanley.
They also listened to the book, The Adventures of Shark Stanley and
Friends, shown at bottom during the Christmas Art Fair in Saltmills.
jACKIE WALKER TINA RANDALL
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 39

DAVID STONE
Above: Reef sharks play a role in maintaining the biodiversity coral
reefs support.
Left: Shark Stanley travels with his message to many community
events, including this Maritime Heritage Festival in Blue Hills.
TINA RANDALL
maintain the balance of marine life, including commercially
important species that end up on our dinner plates.
Ecosystems function as a check and balance system;
things can get out of balance if you take out an important
piece of the puzzle. Sharks keep fish populations in
check, and with their varied diet help to maintain the biodiversity
coral reefs support. Algae would smother and
kill the coral reef if sharks didn’t control the food chain;
specifically both the carnivorous and herbivorous fish
below them. No tourist wants to snorkel or dive on a reef
overcome with algae, or one that is no longer alive.
Talking with marine biologists and experts in the field that have recently visited TCI, we have learned that many
places around the world are experiencing a decline in shark populations, including the TCI. We still see sharks on
almost every dive here, but their populations are a far cry from what they used to be. Scientists estimate that over
100 million sharks are killed every year in commercial fisheries. Nearly 30 percent of known shark species fully
assessed by scientists are threatened with extinction and another 26 percent are close to becoming threatened in the
near future. The global shark population decline is immense; before we know it we will no longer get to experience
these magnificent and humbling animals in our oceans and will be left with the consequences of an unbalanced
marine ecosystem.
The TCI has the opportunity to be a part of the global movement to save sharks. To date, nine countries and overseas
territories have created shark sanctuaries, ending the commercial fishing of sharks in their waters. Will you join
us? One way to get involved in shark conservation in TCI is to get inspired by international shark conservationist Rob
Stewart when he comes to Providenciales on March 26–28, 2015 for Shark Weekend. Rob is an award winning wildlife
photographer and director of the documentary “Sharkwater” (2007). This film is a visually stunning, eye-opening film
40 www.timespub.tc

that takes you on a journey to the most shark-rich waters
and exposes the exploitation and corruption surrounding
the marine reserves they belong to. The film has won 31
international awards and is a powerful piece that leads us
into the discussion of shark conservation for the future
of the oceans.
Rob will visit select local schools, partake in a community
conservation luncheon and exclusive documentary
screening at Amanyara, and go scuba diving with local
reef club student members to educate on community conservation
and involvement. Don’t miss Rob’s special
conservation presentation and screening of “Sharkwater”
on Saturday, March 28, 2015. It will be open to the public
at Brayton Hall at 7:00 PM. Tickets are available in
advance or at the door. What better way to celebrate Earth
Hour than to watch this film with the lights off and learn
about global conservation efforts to stop the decline of
sharks?
For more information on this Shark Weekend contact
jwalker@amanresorts.com. Shark weekend is supported
by DEMA, Amanyara Resort, BWIC, Edward Gartland Youth
Centre, Big Blue Unlimited, and The Pew Charitable Trusts.
You can get involved! To learn more about Shark
Stanley and his cause, visit SharkStanley.com or the
Facebook page Caribbean Shark Defenders. You can
Tweet @tcisharks and Instagram #tcisharks with selfies,
stories, or pictures of sharks. Write a support letter about
why you love sharks and why they need our help and send
it to tina@pacificu.edu. Keep an eye out for Shark Stanley
at schools and events and take the time to learn about
why you should care about sharks, why they are important
for everyone and how you can get involved in their
conservation. ❁
DISTRIBUTOR FOR EVINRUDE & MERCURY
OUTBOARDS, PURSUIT WORLD CLASS CAT,
SUNDANCE AND BOSTON WHALER BOATS
Lures and Live Bait
Marine Hardware & Gear
Fishing Gear & Supplies
Marine Paints & Varnish
Marine Batteries
Sebago Docksiders
& Sperry Topsiders Shoes
BLUE HILLS ROAD
PROVIDENCIALES
TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS, B.W.I.
PHONE: 649-946-4411
FAX: 649-946-4945
SHARK WEEKEND IS MARCH 26-28, 2015.
Don’t miss shark
conservationist Rob
Stewart’s special
presentation and
screening of
“Sharkwater” on
Saturday, March 28,
2015. It is open to
the public at
Brayton Hall at 7:00
PM. Tickets are
available in advance
or at the door.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 41

feature
Opposite page: Adventurer John Galleymore sets off on his unsupported walk from South Caicos to Providenciales — a TCI first!
Above: For the many water crossings in the journey, John had to put all of his gear in an inflatable cooler and swim with it from shore to shore.
Inset: This map shows the route of the 108 mile journey.
Operation SCOLP
A solo walk from South Caicos Over Land to Providenciales.
By John Galleymore
Photos by Steve Passmore, Provo Pictures
“Because it’s there . . .” was the reply given by George Mallory in the 1920s, when asked why he wanted
to be the first to climb Mt. Everest. That same answer could (and has been) used for almost anyone questioning
the seemingly impossible, or indeed plain crazy adventures undertaken by man. In all honesty, it
could, and should, be translated into “Because I want to be first,” as all adventurers and explorers have
that same selfish streak. That’s what drives us.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 43

When I first thought about undertaking the long solo
and unsupported walk from South Caicos to
Providenciales, I have to confess it was for purely personal
reasons. Although it makes sense that past generations
must have walked this route, this would be the first time
it would be documented. As the idea developed it became
apparent that the event could be used to raise funds for
local charities, increase awareness of the outer islands,
and give a glimpse of the hardship of life in a bygone era.
So, with a lot of help from Claire Parrish at Times
Publications/Tradewinds Radio, some very generous
sponsors, and a very understanding (yet notably worried)
wife, February 11, 2015 was set as the start of a four
night/five day adventure of a lifetime.
Day one (16 miles)
SUNRISE . . . at Providenciales International Airport. The
cleaners are still mopping but otherwise the place is
deserted. I have arrived with nearly 100 pounds of kit
packed into my Army Bergan and “hand luggage” of spare
water and food. Next to arrive is Steve Passmore of Provo
Pictures, who will be photographing, followed by Ralston
Humble of WIV-4, who will be filming, key moments of the
trip.
We are here to catch a private charter to South Caicos,
kindly provided by Caicos Express Airways. Operations
Manager Stephane Menelas has pulled out all the stops to
make this happen, including having the airport on South
open early to let us land!
We check in all our kit, supplies, and camera equipment
and wait for departure. On the short walk to the
plane, the sun is gently rising and I feel the four of us
should be walking in slow motion across the runway to
the sound of some Hollywood movie soundtrack.
Stephane has all the cargo holds opened so we can see
our kit is in place. All is good and it’s time to roll.
We bank over Grace Bay as our pilot caresses the controls
and lifts us ever so gently skyward. Steve and
Ralston shoot and film the passing scenery while I mentally
prepare for the challenge ahead.
In no time at all we are approaching South Caicos. It’s
such a short hop from Provo, it’s a wonder more people
don’t visit. I get my first glimpse of the tip of South and
the nearby cays and water crossings that I will soon be
facing. A gentle bump as we land brings back the reality
that we are here and this is actually happening!
A gleaming white Land Rover with a smiling Butch
Clare at the wheel is there to meet us. It’s a generous
courtesy ride compliments of the Sailrock development
From top: The walk required nearly 100 pounds of gear, food, and
water. It was all packed into the cargo hold for a private charter to
South Caicos provided by Caicos Express Airways. The charter was
expedited by Operations Manager Stephane Menelas, shown here (at
left) bidding John Galleymore farewell.
44 www.timespub.tc

Butch Clare (far right) of South Caicos’ premiere development,
Sailrock, transported John and his team (including videographer
Ralston Humble) to the start of the trip.
that will get us to the official start in no time at all. On
the short ride, Butch tells me about Sailrock and how this
private villa/resort development will benefit the local
economy. It’s already well under construction and ahead
of schedule. He points out the progress so far and it does
not distract from the rugged beauty of this island. Future
owners and guests will be truly blessed to be able to live
here.
We are soon at the tip of the island and Steve,
Ralston, and I are left alone. We set about our personal
sets of kit: Steve’s consists of lenses and a drone,
Ralston’s is movie camera and tripod and mine is water,
food, and a bright blue cooler! I have chosen this small
inflatable cooler to act as a raft for my backpack for the
water crossings. I will swim alongside it. And after some
pictures, filming, and a lot of puff to inflate my raft, it’s
time to go!
John assembles his kit at the tip of South Caicos for the first leg of the
journey to Plandon Cay.
I set off into the shallow inlet and actually head away
from the tip of Plandon Cay, which is my first stop. As the
tide is flowing out through the narrow cut into the ocean,
it’s important I make enough headway so that the tide carries
me toward my goal, not past it! After some walking
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 45

The start of the “walk” involved heading into the deep, fast-flowing channel towards Plandon Cay. Shortly afterwards, it required loading all
the gear into the raft to swim and tow.
in chest-deep water I put on my fins and launch into the
deep, fast-flowing channel and in a few minutes I land at
the tip of Plandon Cay. The beach I was headed for is actually
a huge pile of sun-bleached conch shells so I head for
some shallow water to rest and sort my kit.
I hoist my pack onto my back and put my “belt kit”
(spare water, etc.) into the raft and pull it through the
shallows. After a few minutes a small plane comes in very
low and I realize it’s the Caicos Express pilot on his return
to Provo, giving Steve and Ralston a fly-by! I wave vigorously
and walk on as they level off and fly away.
At the end of Plandon Cay is a large rock atop of
which is an osprey nest. I don’t believe it has a name but
it is near my next target — Middle Creek Cay. I am halfway
along Plandon when I spy an old wreck about 1,000 yards
“inland,” resting in the channel. The tide is flowing fast
out to sea so I wade almost to the wreck and again launch
into the channel, kicking ferociously with my fins. Some
20 minutes later I am edging closer, but more importantly,
past the “Rock” and onto Middle Creek Cay. I
clamber up the hill to take in the 360º views and the
amazingly calm ocean.
I walk the length of Middle Creek Cay without incident
and am soon faced with another channel. (This is why I
have stayed in my “wet kit” to avoid constantly changing
clothes.) The channel to McCartney Cay is fairly easy but
I still take the precaution of “horseshoeing” in a curve so
the tide carries me to where I want to be.
I walk and wade along the edge of McCartney Cay.
The rocks are stunning and it gives me a taste to return
some time and enjoy it fully. Ospreys fly overhead, while
large iguanas bask on sun warmed rocks.
This old structure on East Caicos looks like a cattle pen, likely a relic
of the late 1800s, when cattle ranching was tried on the island.
I am behind schedule but enjoying the tranquility.
The sun is shining; the ocean like a mill pond. I soon find
myself at a small inlet. It’s midafternoon and I’m about to
plant my feet on East Caicos!
jOHN GALLEYMORE
46 www.timespub.tc

After a short lunch, hot drink, and check-in by satellite
phone it’s time to change into “dry kit” which is my
walking kit. Now donning boots, long pants, and shirt, I
can make good progress over the rocks and brush along
the coastline. I have attached my “belt kit,” two pouches
on my belt holding all my need-to-get-to-items such as
water, snacks, camera, phone, hydration tablets, etc. This
means I can replenish on the go without the need to
remove my pack (which is not easy to get on and off!)
I set up off the coastline; the sea is still dead calm
and there is little wind. I find myself having to zig-zag
between walking the rocks along the coast and the few
donkey trails I find inland. It’s exhausting work. I find an
old structure which looks like a cattle pen and stop for a
rest.
I take stock of my water. I have yet to drink anywhere
near my daily allowance, but this is due to the time spent
in the water. The next few days walking will be another
story. I start to collect water bottles from the beach. These
discarded, half-empty bottles will supplement my supply.
Some are very old and the plastic is brittle so are ignored.
Others seem fine so I harvest these eagerly. This water
will assist in cooking, heating my food (while being boiled
in the process), then being used for a hot drink.
The day is drawing to a close and I am behind schedule.
It’s unlikely I will make my planned night stop which
is Drum Point. The sand here is very deep and soft and
given the amount of water crossings I have done it’s no
wonder I have not covered the miles I had hoped to. I
push on for a short time after sunset but don’t want to
risk a twisted knee or similar, so I stop above the high
tide line to set up camp.
Thirty seconds! That’s all it takes after putting on my
head-torch before I am attacked by swarms of sand flies
and other similar nasty bugs! I heave the pack off my back
and the blood rushes back into my aching muscles; I feel
I could lay here and sleep for a week! I decide to hang my
torch in a nearby bush and set up camp by means of a
cylume stick — the soft green glow give me enough light
to work by, but does not attract the bugs who are happily
attacking my torch 30 yards away.
There is little wind and the sea is calm. I eat under
the clearest of starry skies. Despite my tiredness, this
beats the finest restaurants in the world! I slip into my
tent, sip some water and, despite a brief thunderstorm, I
sleep like a baby.
Day two (24 miles)
I awake to another calm but overcast day. Satellite comms
John’s nightly shelter was simple and functional.
tell of huge swells about to hit the TCI so I am happy to
be walking and not swimming the cays! Breakfast is bacon
and beans mixed with whatever bugs are swarming
around me! (Protein is protein, right?) I break camp,
ensure I have left nothing, and heave the pack onto my
back. Although I have eaten two meals and had two bottles
of water why does it feel no lighter?
I set off again and I can feel the heat of the sun
already. I fear it will be a long, hot day (and will be proved
right.) I soon make Drum Point and kick myself for not
pushing on into last night. But I am still injury free so
must not complain. I still marvel at the utter beauty and
remoteness here and even my burning shoulders from the
pack cannot diminish my spirit today.
To my right the sea is calm but huge breakers now
crash on the reef. I decide to climb the ridge inland to my
left and I am rewarded with a gorgeous sight of inland
lakes teeming with flamingos. I sit, rest, and take in the
stunning scenery.
Time to push on. I head back and continue to switch
between donkey trails and the coast path. With no wind
and intense walking I find myself sipping more and more
water. I continue to seek out whatever I can find and am
rewarded with a bizarre sight — a beached construction
hard-hat full of last night’s rainfall! I eagerly drink it, leaving
only a little sand in the bottom and walk on refreshed.
My (very ambitious) plan is to get off East today and
try for Middle Caicos. It will be tough as I am struggling
between ironshore, deep sand, and donkey tracks that
lead me off route. It’s tough going and I am still hoisting
90 pounds and trying to stick to my schedule of a sip of
water every 30 minutes. Candy bars and Power-Gels give
me a kick, but it’s only a brief respite from the pain in my
jOHN GALLEYMORE
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 47

Above: Walking inland along the ridges of East Caicos offers marvelous,
though daunting, views.
At right: John finds a welcome pool of fresh water on East Caicos,
which he can drink through his filter straw.
back, shoulders, and now ankle. I feel for the generations
of Islanders who used to regularly make walks like this in
search for food and water, probably on a daily basis.
The huge swells out to sea are now coming ashore.
It’s bad enough that the beach is almost at a 45-foot gradient,
but now huge waves break right up to the high tide
line so walking the beach is impossible. It’s back fighting
through the meandering donkey trails and thick bush. I
often head inland up to the ridge; I am rewarded with
great views but also a reminder of how far I have to go. I
find some old ruins and stop for a rest but am constantly
aware that the day is getting on and I still have a long way
to go.
Just before I hit Lorimers Point, a small headland on
East Caicos, I find a pool of “fresh” water and eagerly drink
through my filter straw. It’s cold, fresh, and gives me the
lift I need. It’s so important that I don’t start “using” the
next day’s water ahead of schedule — that will spell disaster.
The sun is falling as I round the point and head down
the coast of East Caicos, home to the Jacksonville ruins. I
see many old structures but these will be investigated
another day; for now, I must push on before dark. Despite
the breakers on the reef which I guess are close to 50 feet
high, the inlet between East and Joe Grant Cay is calm so
I decide to go into the water early.
I get into my wet kit, inflate the raft, and am soon
wading between small breakers and heading for the line
of casaurina trees which stand along the beach. As I hit
sand, the sun is very low. It’s obvious Middle Caicos is out
of the equation for tonight but there is still a chance to
make the north beach of Joe Grant Cay to give me a good
start in the morning.
Decisions . . . to go round the bluff and past the ruins
jOHN GALLEYMORE
48 www.timespub.tc

or through the middle of the cay? I don’t have much time
so I decide on the shortest route of through the bush. It
is one I will regret. At first I find a trail and I stay in my
beach shoes and carry the raft. My GPS tells me it’s only
1/2 mile across so should not take too long. The sun is
setting and my pack is burning into my back after ten
hours of walking. Then the trail suddenly ends. I start
pushing through the bush but it’s getting thicker as I go.
I have to carry the raft on my head to avoid damaging it
on the sharp branches, but it’s still very slow going. It’s
almost dusk now so I stop to put on my boots, don my
GoreTex suit to protect me from the bush, and deflate the
raft. It’s now I notice the GPS had died on me — here I am
in failing light and surrounded on all sides my thick,
almost impenetrable, bush. Need to think quickly!
I know from my pace and time that I must have covered
about 500 hundred yards, so it’s better to push on
than risk going back. I need a navigation marker, and
quickly. Looking skywards, the sun has set enough for the
stars to make an appearance. I see what must be Venus
ahead of me and almost directly behind I guess is Jupiter,
both shining brightly enough to keep me on track.
I push on, constantly falling and tripping until I hit a
small clearing, inexplicably covered in grass. As I stop to
rest I hear waves gently breaking so I know I am close.
That’s enough for tonight so I set up camp, still wearing
my GoreTex suit to keep the bugs at bay, and sip what
remains of my daily water ration. I eat my rations cold as
I have little water to cook with. I have water rations but
refuse to be tempted to drink ahead of schedule. I also
have an emergency canteen of water on my belt, but this
is only for a life-or-death situation and although I am
parched, I’m not dying yet! As I settle in for what is a long,
miserable, and thirsty night, I again think of the early
Islanders who must have gone through this same situation
time and time again.
Day three (29 miles)
I awake, break camp, and treat myself to a hot breakfast
with the first of today’s water ration. I am in better spirits
and push on through the last of the bush. I can see casaurina
trees ahead which I know favor the beach line. Very
soon I burst onto the beach. I decide to indulge in a swim,
and soon the calm waters are nursing my cuts and bruises
from the previous day. I also notice skin starting to detach
from my feet so I dress, tape up my feet, and push onto
Wild Cow Run beach. Today will be a LONG day!
I finally come ashore on Middle Caicos. Already the
sun is climbing, closely followed by the temperature. I rest
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 49

jOHN GALLEYMORE
The beach at Lorimers is a typically “wild” and beautiful out-island treasure.
amongst the pines and set about fixing the GPS. I have a
paper map but never like to rely on one method alone.
After fresh batteries and some cleaning, the unit is functioning
again and I set off along the sand road which will
take me round to Haulover Point.
A few miles down the road I stop to check the map
and see I have two choices — either continue as I am and
walk the eight miles or so to Lorimers or swim across the
Lorimers inlet to the dock. I choose to swim! The water is
calm and fairly shallow so the crossing is uneventful. It’s
a relief to have the pack off my back for a while too.
I once spoke to Director of the National Trust Ethlyn
Gibbs who told me her father used to cross this water regularly,
in the same manner, and head for East Caicos in
search of cattle. Once again I am reminded that an adventure
for me is merely replicating the daily lives of
generations past. I asked her what he did for water and
she explained a once common technique for harvesting
rainwater by use of rock placement that stopped the water
being drunk by cattle or other animals. It seems sad that
such great skills and traditions have been lost very
quickly.
I pull ashore at Lorimers dock, much to the astonishment
of a local guy who has been watching me with great
curiosity! His name is Desmond and although he runs My
Dee's Restaurant in Bottle Creek, he has made the long
drive to Lorimers to hook up with a fishing buddy.
I use the shelter of the dock to lay out all my kit. Now
its evaluation time — what, if anything can go? I lay out
what needs to be dried and set about tending to my feet.
Desmond tries not to stare in astonishment as I pull a
scalpel from my trauma kit and start to burst blisters and
cut away dead skin from my feet. We are soon chatting
about everything from politics and the weather to lobsters
as I continue to kit-check my equipment and tend to my
feet. I could sit here all day chatting to this great guy but
must push on, as I am way behind schedule.
I finally leave at 3 PM. My feet have been treated and
taped up and I have lightened my load a little including
giving all but one of my emergency marine flares to
Desmond. I feel little difference in the weight as I set off
on the long paved road to my next goal — the causeway.
I set off at a good pace — taped feet and painkillers are
the order of the day. On paved roads I can average nearly
4 MPH, even with backpack, so if I can get into a steady
rhythm I may even make up some time.
Bambarra soon beckons and I decide to stay on the
paved road and not cut up the old Kings Road and past
the cell towers. Although there is a drinking pond on that
route I feel the speed I can make on the roads is more
beneficial. Few cars pass me. I stop every two miles for
water and a snack and also check in periodically by cell
and satellite phone. A few miles from Conch Bar and the
sun starts to set. The long road ahead is awash with a
50 www.timespub.tc

sunny haze as I get ready for the inevitable onslaught of
mosquitoes once the sun goes down.
I rest up briefly just before the old airstrip and force
down a packet of chili con carne and some water. My pace
is good and despite the weight of the pack I am in good
spirits. I slip through the small settlement of Conch Bar in
a quiet twilight. There is no wind, it’s deathly quiet, and I
see no living thing bar a few potcakes who ignore me. Just
past the airstrip are two old water wells and although I
have the equipment to probably risk drinking the water
in them, the unfortunate sight of garbage, old buckets,
and bottles at the bottom makes me decide to pass. I have
my daily rations and there will be other opportunities
along the way.
The causeway beckons below a night sky filled with
stars. On the water on either side there is not even a ripple
and the wind is non-existent. By some miracle there
are only a few bugs so I discard my head net.
When I have walked this route before, I always look
for a certain landmark to spur me on. I know that just
after the bend of the causeway, way up on the hill on the
right, at Bottle Creek you can see a blue and white house.
This always gives me a goal and although I can’t see it
now, I know it’s there — three more miles. That’s less
than an hour’s walk. I’ll be sleeping in North Caicos
tonight for sure!
So, finally, after nearly 30 miles since I awoke on Joe
Grant this morning, I set up camp and fall into a deep
sleep. Eighteen miles since Lorimers in six hours means I
have averaged three MPH. I hope I can repeat it tomorrow.
Day four (22 miles)
I awake to another clear and calm day. The road to Sandy
Point will be long and hot with no wind so I get going as
soon as I can.
My feet are OK yet the pack feels no lighter! Today is
the day I have saved for my iPod, so in go the buds and
on go the tunes and very soon I am pacing the tarmac at
a good speed. Halfway down Bottle Creek a truck stops
and it’s my dear friends Brenda and Ralph. These long
term residents of Bottle Creek have got up early to come
and cheer me on! It’s a great boost and we joke for a while
about a cooked breakfast and a hot shower but I have to
decline so they leave me to the open road.
I pass the airport and head onwards to Whitby. The
traffic has started to increase slightly as people start
heading down Bambarra for the Valentine’s Day Cup
model sailboat races. I wonder what they make of a crazy
guy with a huge backpack walking the road while playing
a air guitar! My iPod is helping distract me from the pain
and I keep up a good pace. I am also pleased to see the
huge smile of Mac the taxi driver as he passes me. Mac
has been instrumental in helping me to train for this event
and I wave as he heads past.
On my next rest stop a local guy says he recognizes
me from the newspaper and enquires as to my progress.
He also passes on his concerns about the bountiful
amount of sharks in the channels . . .
Onwards through Whitby and I start on the long road
up from the Hollywood Park. More cars pass on their way
to Bambarra and some stop to ask for pictures with me.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 51

Further up a chartered school bus passes and my good
friend Steve Thompson yells encouragement from the
window! This boost is multiplied by more good friends
Kathi and Mike, who stop for a quick chat.
Sandy Point beckons and I head past the marina to
check the tide. I decide to rest up for a while in the pine
trees before crossing. I take stock of my water; my concern
for the last few hours has been the large amounts of
blood in my urine. Not a good sign. I know that dehydration
alone is unlikely to cause this but bladder and kidney
infection is a strong contender. I am close to the last part
of this adventure and would hate to have to retire now. I
decide to rest up and drink plenty. I am at my scheduled
stop and it’s only 1 PM, so I have plenty of time.
I call Trevor, the security supervisor at Parrot Cay
which is a few hundreds yard swim from where I sit. He
arranges to meet me when I cross. Once again, the wet
kit goes on, the raft gets inflated, and I cross with no
issues. Trevor greets me while my buddy Nick snaps away
with his camera.
Parrot Cay is only a few miles long and in no time I am
at the hotel dock getting ready for the crossing to Dellis
Cay. Trevor sees me off safely and I appreciate his presence,
especially when I nearly get run down mid-channel
by a passing boat — and I thought it was sharks I had to
watch for!
I find an abandoned structure and set up camp. I eat
all my food (save one for breakfast) and set aside water
for tomorrow’s final leg, then drink the rest. My urine
blood has started to clear so I guess it’s just a case of
“march hematuria” which I have not had since my military
days and is caused by muscle trauma. It is common in
new recruits, ultra runners, or anyone who undertakes
hours of prolonged extreme and repetitive physical exercise.
The red blood cells break down and the hemoglobin
is released into the urine.
Day five (17 miles)
This is it . . . final day! I have three water crossings to go
and they are the largest of the entire trip. The waves still
crash on the reef and I hope the channels are calm. My
back and feet are in pain, so as well as taking some
painkillers I strip down all my kit — batteries can go (far
too heavy) as can head-torch, sleeping blanket, fuel
tablets, medical kit etc., etc. Anything I won’t need is
trashed to help reduce weight, not only for the walk but
the expansive water crossings too.
I walk to the edge of the cay and look across to Ft.
George Cay. The waves are crashing in through the cut in
The tired adventurer was welcomed with open arms by the staff and
guests at Pine Cay. This private island includes a small number of private
villas and The Meridian Club.
the reef and continue well into the channel. The wind is
whipping them into white caps. According to my charts
the tide should be slack, but the wind and waves makes
it look anything but that.
I call ahead as planned to John Patrick, head of security
on Pine Cay. We have never met but his voice tells me
immediately he is a true professional, and I guess ex-military.
I tell him I am on my way and he says my reservation
is waiting . . . if only!
I launch into the channel and grip my Bergan tightly
to the raft. I have on bright orange markers and I kick like
fury. Alternating between facing forward and looking
back, I can see the tide is indeed slack for I am neither
being carried in or out. I am, however, being pounded by
relentless waves, which may only be a few feet high but
seem mountainous when only your head is above water! I
cover the 1,000 yard swim quickly enough and I’m happy
to feel Ft. George Cay beneath my feet.
I quickly cross and set off again for Pine Cay. The
water is calmer here and I spot John and his crew in the
Pine Cay marine patrol boat. The plan is for me to head
for the resort dock. I have never been here but have been
told the residents value their privacy. The last thing I want
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to do is upset anyone by beaching in front of someone’s
home! Beverly, Wally, and Debbie who manage the island
have graciously allowed me to come ashore for a few
hours and I don’t want to abuse their kind hospitality.
The tide has other ideas. It has now started to flow
out and I have no chance of reaching the dock. John is
unfazed and tells me with a smile to “just end up where I
end up!” A few minutes later I am met on the beach outside
someone’s home by the smiling resort managers
Wally and Beverly with a cheery “welcome to Pine Cay!”
I explain it is my plan to rush through the resort with
minimal disturbance but the ever gracious Beverly has
other ideas. I am allowed to take as much time as I need
on the beach to change, sort my kit, and re-pack for the
day’s walking. John comes to meet me and we chat as he
drives his buggy along the hotel road I have been given
access to. He tells me he is an ex-police officer — and that
explains his professional competency. I decline his offer
of a buggy ride but do give him my garbage bag knowing
he will dispose of it thoughtfully.
I overhear a call to all the residents on John’s belt
radio about my arrival and saying what road I am walking.
I am unsure if I am being greeted like a VIP or very
good friend but I soon realize there is little difference on
Pine Cay.
As I approach the club house I am met by lovely
Debbie the island manager and she walks with me the
remainder of the way. Just after, I pass a row of homes
and the owners have come to encourage me on with
cheers and applause. Some come to the road, others
cheer from their decks. This is so much more than I could
have hoped for!
We pass the pond by the club house and I stop for a
drink. Most welcomed! I head into the club house where
a dozen or so owners, guests, and staff gather round and
shake my hand. They are so enthusiastic I end up giving
a short impromptu presentation of my kit and supplies,
then talk them through the journey so far.
It’s soon time to leave and I walk past the very tempting
swimming pool and onto the beach. Bizarrely my feet
and back don’t hurt and the backpack feels like it’s filled
with helium — the welcome I have received here has been
staggering and it’s given me such a boost I feel I could
run to Water Cay! I want to hug each and every one of
these well-wishers for the profound effect they have had
on me. I shall never forget this day.
The beach here is very wide, and arguably the best in
the TCI. Luckily for me the waves are fairly small, allowing
me plenty of compacted sand to walk on. I make good
At Little Water Cay, also known as “Iguana Island,” John was met by
National Trust Director Ethlyn Gibbs.
time along the cliffs of Water Cay. The scenery is stunning
and I enjoy the view as I sip water and work my way along
the island. I drop onto Half Moon Bay and get astonished
looks from a group of day-trippers enjoying the beach —
I must look quite a sight by now! I plan to cross the
Leeward channel from the jetty at Little Water Cay so I cut
across the scrub land so I am now opposite Donna Cay.
The tide is low and I marvel at the view as I walk the pathway
around to the welcome center.
I am pleasantly surprised to bump into Ethlyn Gibbs,
the National Trust director, and we catch up and take pictures.
I tell her I will be crossing shortly and she says she
will wave me off!
After a brief rest, I am further boosted when my wife
says she will meet me on Leeward Beach. She will be the
first person I see once I finish and I am keen to get started
but have to wait for the tide. Eventually I find myself loading
my kit into my raft next to the Welcome Center dock.
Ralston and Steve are in a boat filming and taking photos
and off I go.
It’s a tough swim, but being this near to the end only
spurs me on. A kick and paddle and I see my wife on the
beach. With a last push I feel the sand under me and grab
a handful. My wife embraces me and I have made it!!! I am
totally elated!
Although this is the “end,” I have vowed to push onto
Grace Bay for the official finish. Sally walks with me for a
while and has a flag for me to carry. She will go ahead to
the finish while I walk the last two miles. Once alone again
I drift lazily along the beach. Blisters, ankles, back —
nothing hurts now, it’s all pure euphoria.
I head around the last bend and see Rickie’s Flamingo
Cafe ahead. Rachel from the Flamingo Pharmacy has
kindly inflated a finish gate which adds to my excitement.
54 www.timespub.tc

SUCCESS! The TCI’s first solo, unsupported walk from South Caicos to Grace Bay was celebrated with a grand finale at Rickie’s Flamingo Café
on Grace Bay. Below: John Galleymore (center) was greeted by supporters (from left) Claire Parrish, Steve Thompson from Projetech, John’s
wife Sally, and Cally Affleck from Melt/Footprints on the Beach.
As I near, Sally once again appears and we hug again, then
it’s onto the finish.
All my friends and well-wishers are here to cheer me
home. I head through the gate and collapse onto my
knees. It’s all a blur of pictures, handshakes, and questions
and I find myself unable to talk, it’s all got to be too
much for me.
“South Caicos to Grace Bay. Solo and unsupported” —
JOB DONE! ❁
SCOLP STATS
February 11 to 15, 2015
Total miles — 108
16 island/cays crossed; 14 water crossings
Body Weight lost — 9 pounds
Funds raised — $5,300.
MAJOR SPONSORS:
Projetech
Melt
Caicos Express Airways
Sailrock
Flamingo Pharmacy
(23 sponsors total, including other generous island
businesses and individuals) THANK YOU!
CHARITIES SUPPORTED:
TCI National Trust
TCI Salvation Army
Edward C. Gartland Youth Center
TCSPCA
Schools on South, Middle, and North Caicos
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 55

PARADISE PHOTOGRAPHY

feature
PARADISE PHOTOGRAPHY
Opposite page: The tranquil waters lining Parrot Cay hold many a fascinating tale of the past.
Above: The Caicos Cays — including Pine Cay and Parrot Cay — boast some of the most beautiful and pristine beaches in the world.
The Cays, A Pirate,
and A Countess
A true-to-life tale that could only take place in the Islands.
Story & Historical Photos By Dr. Charlene Kozy, President Emerita, Cumberland University
Popular television shows such as Conquistadors, Black Sails, and Downton Abbey have their real-life
counterparts here in the Turks & Caicos Islands. The tiny cays just east of Providenciales attracted explorers,
pirates, and royalty to their shores, largely because of having fresh water, one of their greatest assets.
It is unfortunate that none of the main characters can see the Islands today. They would marvel at the
activity. It is no longer a stop for Spanish conquistadors or British Loyalists, nor a sanctuary for lawless
pirates. And it is probably too commercial to soothe the stresses of life as an Austrian count . . .
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 57

The cays
Pine Cay and Parrot Cay are part of the Turks & Caicos
chain. Pine Cay is located approximately three miles west
of the southwestern edge of North Caicos. Parrot Cay is
about one and a half miles northeast of Pine Cay and is
separated from the northwest edge of North Caicos by a
narrow cut which is less than 800 feet wide at the north
end, increasing to a half mile further south. Smaller cays
between the two larger ones are Fort St. George, Dellis,
Water, and Grouper.
Revolution drove hundreds of Loyalists out of America,
one of whom was recorded as being relocated on Parrot
Cay.
Loyalist Thomas Williamson was awarded 288 acres
on Parrot Key, described as “the same being a key called
Parrot key, situated on the north side of Grand Caicos,
one of our Bahama Islands, bounded on all sides by the
sea.” (Bahama Registry, B/1, 171, 18 December, 1789).
This parcel of land will play in the later history of Parrot
Cay.
Water was mentioned repeatedly in the logs of early
European ships describing the cays as having an abundant
supply for 50 ships. In the late 1950s and early
1960s, water will again be the major factor in the development
of Pine Cay and the recent resort development on
Parrot Cay.
A twist of fate born out of a war and a quasi-war
brought two women, first, a pirate and secondly, a countess,
to the largest Cays, Pine and Parrot Cay. Even though
the time span between their lives is approximately 140
years, they had some commonality. The pirate followed a
colorful outlaw in Nassau who was later hanged in Jamaica
and left her to beg for her life. The countess married an
Austrian count who fled Austria to New York during the
Nazi Anschluss in 1938 but died young and left her to
finish their dream.
Through the centuries, each has hosted several
inhabitants, but none were permanent until recent
decades. The earliest were the Arawak people who vanished
after the Spanish conquistadors plundered the
Islands. The first documented Europeans to record sighting
the Islands were Juan Ponce de Leon in 1512 and
Christopher Columbus who described Fort St. George as
a harbor with “two mouths.” This harbor would become
important in the defense of the Islands during the Haitian
Revolution and a threat of a French Invasion. The Islands
passed from Spanish, to French, to British ownership, but
no permanent settlement was made until the American
Anne Bonny — the pirate
Anne Bonny was born in Cork, Ireland around 1700 to a
lawyer and his maidservant after a scandalous affair. The
lawyer left Cork with the child and her mother and came
to the Carolinas in America. They settled in Charleston
where she grew up and her father practiced law and then
became a merchant. She was a spirited, tough girl who
did not run from a fight. She was expected to marry well
into the Charleston society. Instead, she married a penniless
sailor, James Bonny, which displeased her father. He
disinherited her and “cast them out.” She was about sixteen
at that time.
The Bonnys moved to New Providence to seek their
fortune. James made a meager living turning pirates in to
the new government established by Bahamas Governor
Woodes Rogers. Anne apparently lost respect for James
and began sleeping with men until she was later referred
to as a harlot.
A colorfully dressed pirate, John “Calico Jack”
Rackham, had accepted a pardon offered by the King and
was living in Nassau at this time. He met the fiery young
lady, Anne. They fell in love and wanted to marry, but she
58 www.timespub.tc

could not get an annulment or a divorce. Since they could
not get married, on the night of August 22, 1720,
Rackham, Bonny, six men and cross-dressing female,
Mary Read, stole William — a twelve-ton, six-gun sloop —
and began a new life of piracy.
They successfully recruited out-of-work sailors and
former pirates to join them. For the next months, they
chased and attacked any vessel they saw. Anne was an
excellent pirate. She cursed and drank like the men and
she and Mary Read dressed like a man when fighting
began. Sailors who had been captured by Rackham
reported that it was the women who urged more violence
and “greater acts of bloodshed.” In her later trial, some of
these sailors testified against her.
Nassau could no longer be used as a sanctuary and a
new haven was found off the western coast of North
Caicos, which was most certainly Pine Cay and Pirate Cay,
renamed Parrot Cay. One version of the origin of the name
“Turks” is that it came from a time 200 years before this
age of piracy when the Ottoman Empire dominated the
seas and halted European Atlantic shipping and cruised
the Caicos shores. Translated, “Turks” Islands became
“Pirate” Islands.
Business prospered. Bella Christina, a Spanish treasure
ship, was captured cruising the Caicos Passage and a
large booty and some captured seaman boosted their
enthusiasm. The capture of a slave ship swelled their
numbers into a small settlement which may have lasted
over two years.
Rackham continued his reckless pursuit of any vulnerable
vessel with Bahamas Governor Woodes-Rogers
offering bounties for his capture. While cruising the
shores of Jamaica, Captain Jonathan Barnet, a privateer,
chased Rackham into the night. It is believed that
Rackham’s men fell to drinking and could not defend their
ship. They were asked to surrender but refused, and the
men fled to the hold leaving Bonny and Read on deck to
fight. The women called for them to come up and fight
“like men” and when they did not, the women fired into
the hold, killing one and wounding others.
Barnet fired a broadside which caused the boom to
crash onto the deck. Barnet’s men stormed over the rails,
took all into custody, and delivered them to the military
officer on shore. Soon, Calico Jack, Anne Bonny, Mary
Read, and the crew found themselves in a Spanish Town
jail waiting to be tried.
Rackham and the other male pirates were swiftly
found guilty and were hanged at Gallows Point in Port
Royal, Jamaica on November 18, 1720. Anne was allowed
Anne Bonny was a colorful female pirate who likely spent time on
Parrot Cay with her lover, Calico Jack Rackham.
to see her lover, Calico Jack, before the hanging.
Reportedly, her last words to him were, “I’m sorry to see
you here, but if you had fought like a man you need not
have hanged like a dog.”
Bonny and Read were also found guilty and sentenced
to hang, but both “plead their bellies” and after finding
they were indeed pregnant, the execution was postponed.
Mary Read died in prison from a fever five months later.
Anne Bonny received a reprieve but what became of her is
not known; it is only known that she was not executed.
With the execution of ”Calico Jack” Rackham and other
pirates, the Golden Age of Piracy was all but over.
The Countess — Helen Czernin
Helen was an American girl born in Ohio to a professional
artist, was working in New York after World War II. She
met, fell in love with, and married Austrian Count
Ferdinand Czernin. He was the son of the last Prime
Minister for the Austro-Hungarian Empire and fled when
the Nazis invaded during World War II. After the war, he
too came to New York to work and live. He and his bride
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, GREENWICH, LONDON
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 59

honeymooned in Europe and made several other trips trying
to salvage anything of his family’s holdings.
Ferdinand published several books warning of the
Nazi threat. One, entitled Europe, Going, Going, Gone was
destroyed and rewritten while he was in exile in England.
Reportedly, Prime Minister Churchill asked his leaders to
read it as a harbinger of things to come. Ferdinand’s
dream was to see Austria as a free nation again.
Never lacking in acquaintances, the count visited a
friend on South Caicos in 1958. In a conversation aimed
at seeking a place to escape the stresses of a life in New
York, the island of Pine Cay was mentioned and described
as being uninhabited and having fresh water. A trip was
made to Pine Cay and it met all his expectations of a
peaceful little island and a sanctuary from the stresses of
city life.
Schooled in doing things the proper way, he needed
to find the owner of the island. Turks & Caicos was
annexed to Jamaica in 1848 and remained a dependency
until 1959, but the governor of Jamaica was also the governor
of Turks & Caicos until 1962. Therefore, it was the
Jamaican government who granted him a conditional
farming lease for five years and then extended it for a 90
year period. The requirements were that he build a residential
house and start a farming operation. Helen came
from New York to join the venture.
Hurricane Donna swept through in 1960 and
destroyed vegetation on all the Islands including Pine Cay.
An extension was given to the farming lease and
Ferdinand reopened his dream of a hideaway island and
a Pine Cay development possibility. The count died in
1966 of a heart attack. Helen attempted to continue the
legacy her husband had dreamed of.
Ownership and control of Pine Cay changed at the
death of Ferdinand. Helen, in the settlement, moved to
Parrot Cay. She remodeled the plantation home of Loyalist
Thomas Williamson. A second story was added and the
slave cabins were remodeled to serve as guest houses.
Helen was an accomplished artist and the house accommodated
a studio. One painting titled, “The Cook House,”
pictured the kitchen separate from the main house. This
writer spent some time there sleeping in a renovated slave
home, and is proud to own a painting of the “Cook House”
along with other of the countess’s island paintings.
Proposals for a marina and resort hotel on Parrot Cay
were made by the countess and associate Fritz Ludington.
They never materialized. The countess lived there until illness
necessitated a move to Grand Turk. She resided at
Corktree Beach until her death.
From top: Helen Czernin’s house on Parrot Cay was a reconstructed
Loyalist Plantation home. These original paintings by Helen Czernin,
“The Cook House” and “Conch Bar,” are the property of this article’s
author.
60 www.timespub.tc

Countess Helen Czernin became a part of Grand Turk
society. She was often a guest at the governor’s house for
parties and luncheons. One special invitation was to
Prince Phillip’s party on his yacht honoring the officials
on the island. She involved herself in the art of the island
and donated a mural for the newly founded National
Museum. She continued to paint pictures of the many
islands in the chain.
Her signature piece of art is the official Coat of Arms.
The original is held by a friend on Pine Cay. The Coat of
Arms is used as a pattern for a rug in the governor’s home
on Grand Turk. The shield with the cactus, conch, and lobster
adorns the official flag of Turks & Caicos.
Not only did Helen enjoy associating with the prominent
of Grand Turk, she knew and helped those not as
fortunate. One girl from the Dominican Republic who
worked for her was given a house in that country. The
young boys knew she would buy their shells if they
stopped and ask “Miss Helen” for a drink of water. The
animals were her friends too. A pet donkey, Pegasus, was
flown from Parrot Cay when she moved to Grand Turk,
and was then allowed to roam with the wild donkeys.
Water and food were always available for stray cats and
dogs. She could often be found buzzing the streets in her
golf cart or having lunch at Salt Raker Inn. She was truly
a citizen of the Island.
Countess Helen Czernin moved to Grand Turk in her later years and
resided at Corktree Beach until her death in 2004.
Helen’s benevolence was extended to college students
from Cumberland University who were working in
historical archaeology on the Caicos Islands. She wanted
to know them and opened her home to them, as well as
helping them financially and treating them to a dinner on
Grand Turk. She is kindly remembered by them today.
Daphne, a lovely lady who lives on Grand Turk,
became a special friend to Helen in her last days. Helen
died on February 11, 2004.
Kathryn Brown
Kathryn is a highly qualified, top listing/selling
broker, dedicated to her customers and clients.
Professionalism, integrity and work ethic are
Kathryn’s core values.
President of the Turks & Caicos Real Estate Association
2008 - 2013, Kathryn was vice president for three
years, and voted as their first ambassador in 2007.
Canadian-born, Kathryn's real estate career started
in the Cayman Islands in 1997. She moved to TCI in
2000 as manager of newly franchised ERA Coralie
Properties, becoming a shareholder and C.O.O.
Tel: 649 231 2329 Email: krbrown@era.tc
Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 61

COURTESY TURKS & CAICOS SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY
Count Ferdinand Czernin accurately foresaw the
future of Pine Cay. Today it is a private island with a limited
number of homes and an exclusive resort. The
countess did not get to participate and be a part of the
Pine Cay community. What she and Fritz saw as the future
of Parrot Cay has also materialized. A luxurious resort —
touted as a celebrity hideaway — has recently been
developed and a bit of the countess is still there in her
remodeled plantation home. After the sale to developers,
she never returned to Parrot Cay.
The Czernins had foresight and a drive that sparked
tourist development and changed the ambience of the
Islands from being unheard of and under-developed to a
coveted destination for the “rich and famous.”
Countess Helen Czernin retained her title in remembrance
of the man she had married. Rather than go back
to the United States, she chose to finish her life on the
Islands, living the life the count dreamed of. The countess
certainly left her footprints on the sands of the Caicos. ❁
Sources
Johnson, Charles. The General History of Pyrates.
This book gives most of the details of Anne Bonny’s early
life. Johnson did not give his sources and most of his work
cannot be verified with records; however, he wrote in
1724 which would be contemporary.
Woodard,Colin. The Republic of Pirates. Harcourt, Inc.,
2007.
From top: The Beach Houses are a luxurious new development
planned for Parrot Cay. Helen Czernin’s benevolence extended to students
from Cumberland University working in historical archaeology.
Her signature piece of art is TCI’s official Coat of Arms. It is used as
a pattern for a rug in the governor’s home on Grand Turk.
62 www.timespub.tc

Oliver’s Cove, Parrot Cay
Lucky House, Parrot Cay
Parrot Island Villa, Cay Parrot Cay
The Beach Houses, Parrot Cay
Pine Cay
Water Cay
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PARROT CAY TODAY
The longest established legal practice
in the Turks & Caicos Islands
Real Estate Investments
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1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97
Leeward Highway, Providenciales
Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564
E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc
Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70
Market Street, Grand Turk
Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758
E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc
Celebrating its 16th year of award-winning operation,
Parrot Cay by COMO remains the enduring favorite
Caribbean retreat, offering the perfect balance of
service, comfort, and exquisite natural beauty. Parrot
Cay is now in full bloom, the benchmark for personalized
service, iconic island style, and yoga and spa
retreats in the entire region.
Parrot Cay by COMO recently announced the
launch of a very limited offering of Beach Houses, in
conjunction with its partnership with Turks & Caicos
Sotheby’s International Realty as its exclusive agent
moving forward with the completion of its real estate
offerings.
The focal point for the master plan of the existing
Island Villas and the slated Beach Houses is the 2,500
feet of pristine north shore beach, located just west of
the main hotel. Set on the eastern portion of this
beach, the completed Island Villa 1101 (offered at
$10 million) exudes sophisticated simplicity. The
more relaxed, luxury three bedroom Beach Houses
will start at $6.5 Million.
According to Managing Director Crawford
Sherman, “Parrot Cay is in a stabilized and mature
place in its life cycle, making it an easy choice for
those seeking a truly extraordinary lifestyle investment.
We feel the timing is perfect for us to release
our new Beach House designs within a focused master
plan that optimizes the powerful potential of
Parrot Cay.” Turks & Caicos Sotheby’s International
Realty President Joe Zahm adds, “We are privileged to
be working with such an acclaimed resort and spa in
promoting a new era of private ownership at a time
when it is becoming increasingly hard to find what
Parrot Cay has to offer.” Vice President Nina
Siegenthaler says, “Even in its infancy, Parrot Cay was
years ahead of the curve in its delivery of understated
design, and details such as its healthful cuisine and
commitment to wellness programs. Parrot Cay continues
to improve year after year. It is rare to feature
prime new offerings in addition to excellent re-sale
opportunities opening up within an already established
world–class environment.”
For more information on Parrot Cay by COMO real
estate offerings, contact Nina Siegenthaler at 649 231
0707 or nina@tcsothebysrealty.com. ❁
64 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe
newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi
tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org
This newly discovered “time capsule” image was taken on South Caicos in 1955 during the “On the Trail of Columbus” Expedition.
“To Boldly Go . . . .”
Exploration and discovery have many forms.
MENDEL PETERSON
By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation
This issue is about exploration and discovery and the many forms it takes. Sometimes they are purposeful, sometimes
accidental—but always the result of seeing, not just looking, and making connections that others have missed.
The Arawak-speaking Native American Tainos were great explorers, paddling seagoing dugout canoes across 100
miles of open ocean to discover the Turks & Caicos Islands around 1,000 years ago. European explorers discovered
the Islands and their people 500 years later. Some historians believe that Columbus’s first landfall in 1492 was somewhere
in the Turks or Caicos Islands. Four hundred years later, underwater explorer Ed Link came here looking for
evidence to prove his theory that South Caicos was the place where Columbus first set foot in the New World. Only
weeks ago while exploring a dusty shelf, I made an accidental discovery of photographic negatives taken during the
Link expedition in 1955. They do not confirm the expedition’s conclusion that South Caicos was Columbus’s landfall,
but the images of life in the Islands are priceless.
TCI Naturalist B Naqqi Manco reveals another facet of exploration and discovery in “Clandestine Fields.” The
island environment with its thin alkaline soils, irregular rainfall, and devastating storms makes farming difficult. His
explorations and observations made over the last decade led to the discovery of the ingenious strategies of traditional
crop planting utilized by Islanders over the last 200 years, and perhaps even by the Lucayans before them. ❁
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 65

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This 1955 photo shows a boatload of dried conch headed out to native sloops at anchor in South Caicos.
A Link to the Past
Newly discovered photos document an intriguing 1955 expedition to South Caicos.
By Dr. Donald H. Keith ~ Photos By Mendel Peterson
On a dreary winter’s afternoon in January while rummaging around for something else, I found a small
box containing four rolls of black and white film marked “Air Shots, Turks and Caicos Islands 1955.” I
remembered receiving them many years ago from a colleague at the Smithsonian. No one there knew
anything about them so my colleague apparently “thought of you on the way to the dump” because he
knew I worked in the TCI.
66 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
I can’t say I was ecstatic to receive them. Dealing with
old film negatives is tedious to say the least—so I didn’t. I
had a brief glance at one of the rolls before putting the box
away on the “to be dealt with later when I have absolutely
nothing else to do” shelf. Years passed, during which I
would occasionally rediscover them, briefly consider tossing
them in the trash, and decide it was easier just to let
them lie. But this time my curiosity got the best of me and
I ended the suspense.
The four delicate, easily smudged 35 mm film strips
containing 36 frames each, were about four feet long.
After spending the last 60 years tightly wound up in aluminum
film cans (remember those?) they had taken a spiral
“set” and refused to lay flat, acting more like springs than
film strips. Donning white cotton gloves I fought them on
the light table, examining them frame by frame with a
magnifying loupe. The first several images were of the surface
of the sea obviously shot from a low-flying aircraft,
but there was nothing to indicate where they were taken.
The next few shots appeared to be taken from a boat and
were all of a nondescript, barren, rocky islet. Then came
images of a settlement with modest houses and animals
all around. Finally, there was a shot of a man standing in
front of a two-story building bearing a sign that read:
HUGH. R. SAUNDERS
LICENCED TO SELL SPIRITS
AND SPIRITUOUS LIQUORS
WHICH MAY BE CONSUMED ON
THE PREMISES
So this was South Caicos in 1955. And that, I decided, was
Mr. Saunders himself in front of his establishment.
Then came frames of people loading or unloading
native-built sloops in the harbor, donkey carts loaded with
salt, a huge iguana, people carrying strings of dried conch,
and the like. One photo in particular caught my eye: a middle
aged man, stripped to the waist, attending to some
kind of machine or instrument on the ground that
reminded me of an old-fashioned metal detector, to which
he was connected by a set of headphones—very strange
and out of place!
As I ran the negatives through my scanner to digitize
them I wondered who the photographer was, what on earth
he was doing on South Caicos in 1955, and what was his
connection to the Smithsonian? From the photos it was
clear that he was in the company of other people who
weren’t Islanders, had access to boats and aircraft and a
Best guess is that this is Mr. Hugh R. Saunders in South Caicos in 1955.
Can anyone confirm?
This 1955 shot shows an unidentified expedition member operating
a metal detector (?) somewhere on the east coast of the Caicos.
primitive, but nicely made metal detector. These clues took
me to the Ships of Discovery Library to look for a copy of
Sea Diver: A Quest for History Under the Sea by Marion
Clayton Link, published in 1958. The author was the wife
of the retired American inventor and industrialist Edwin
Link, and the book is her account of the adventures they
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This 1955 South Caicos image shows a convoy of donkey carts “ . . . little carts hitched behind small, patient donkeys.”
This photos depicts Ewing’s General Merchandise, South Caicos
had in the early 1950s aboard a 65-foot diesel trawler they
outfitted for diving and salvage in the Caribbean. The purpose
of the 1955 expedition was to settle the issue of
which island was Columbus’s first landfall in the New
World, and one of the investigators was Mendel Peterson,
then the Curator of Military History at the Smithsonian.
I began to compare the photographs with the chapter
in the book that dealt with the 1955 expedition “On the
Track of Columbus,” during which Sea Diver spent a considerable
time in the Turks & Caicos, particularly South
Caicos. I was surprised to find that some of the photographs
before me could have served as illustrations for
passages in the book. At one point the author lands on “a
rough coral runway” on South Caicos and describes some
of the scenes captured by the photos:
“As we drove into town, I was amazed to discover
that almost the entire community was built on
salt. The road itself was salt, and heaps of salt like
snowdrifts banked it on either side. As we neared
the docks, we passed large open sheds, inside
which black-skinned workers were attacking huge
piles of the white crystals with heavy shovels. As
they filled sturdy hempen bags, others loaded the
bags into little carts hitched behind small, patient
donkeys.”
Soon after she makes a statement that explains the
images of the rocky coast and people in the bush on shore:
“I found that Captain Weems was off on a trip in a
sailboat with two of the town fishermen, to investigate
at first hand the shores and inner waters
where Columbus might have preceded him. Pete
[Mendel Peterson] and Ed [Link] were in enthusiastic
agreement that Columbus might have landed
at South Caicos Island. In several trips between
Turks island and Caicos they had had every opportunity
to check the course which Columbus might
have pursued. And in a cruise to the northeast,
they had rounded the islands clear to the western
side, landing and inspecting various areas as they
went.”
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This photo shows the Turks Islands Salt Co. Ltd. building in South Caicos. Note the “heaps of salt like snowdrifts” in the left corner.
By this time it was apparent that the mysterious photographer
was the Smithsonian curator Mendel Peterson,
and the place was South Caicos during the Sea Diver
expedition of 1955. Mr. Peterson’s aerial and water-level
photos were meant to document the geography of South
Caicos so it could be compared with Columbus’s descriptions
of his first landfall in his Diario, (also called the
“Log” or “Journal” of Columbus). By the end of the expedition
Peterson and the Links decided that, indeed,
Columbus first set foot in the New World on South Caicos.
This conclusion is, of course, only one of many theories,
none of which have proven anything conclusively.
The problem is that Columbus’s original Diario was
lost long ago. Fortunately, we have a paraphrase/abstract
of the Diario composed around 37 years later by
Bartolome de las Casas. Unfortunately, las Casas did not
have access to the original Diario, but only to a copy (now
also lost) of Columbus’s original and possibly some additional
information from Columbus’s son, Fernando. The
version of the Diario, in las Casas’s handwriting that was
discovered in an archive centuries later, serves today as
the most reliable copy, but we have no idea how faithful
it is to the original. It is worth noting that las Casas complains
that parts of the copy of the presumably original
manuscript were illegible and that there are places where
distances expressed in leagues and miles are confused.
As a result there are many translations in different languages
of the Diario—many different interpretations.
Not surprisingly, the theory most popular in the
Turks & Caicos is that Grand Turk was the site of
Columbus’s first landing. In her narrative Marion Link visits
Grand Turk at one point during the 1955 expedition
and meets a Commander Redmond at the US Navy base
on the northern tip of the island, near the lighthouse. She
then makes reference to something I never heard of
before:
“On a neighboring hilltop is the tall shaft which
commemorates Columbus’s first landfall. I asked
Commander Redmond if we might stop there
before returning to Cockburntown. To my surprise
he told us that it was impossible to reach it
in the jeep, for there was no road part of the
way, and it would be necessary to take a boat
across one of the inland lakes. I wondered how
the monument had been built in the first place
back in 1891, and why the Chicago Herald had
selected such an inaccessible location for it.”
It’s funny how one unexpected discovery leads to
another. The mystery of the film cans is solved—but is
there really a long-forgotten monument to Columbus on
Grand Turk erected by the Chicago Herald in 1891? Let’s
go find out! ❁
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 69

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
It’s just waiting for harvest in the field — if the field can indeed be found!
Clandestine Fields
Swidden agriculture in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist
Visitors to the Turks & Caicos Islands: Try finding a traditional crop patch here — I dare you. It won’t
be an easy, straightforward search. In countries with mechanized, technology-driven agriculture, farms are
easy to recognise, even if they’re located in remote areas. Straight rows of single-variety crops, wellweeded
and irrigated, on thoroughly ploughed soil, dashed by irrigation water and protected by fences
— the breadbaskets of developed countries are usually very well-organised places.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Traditional Caicos Island crop patches — locally
called “fields” — are not the geometric monocultures
much of the world has come to expect from farms.
Relying traditionally on swidden (slash-and-burn) agriculture,
Caicos Islands farmers have had to adapt methods
for survival in the harsh environment, creating a unique
though hard-to-recognise crop cultivation arrangement.
Dig down more than a few inches in most of TCI, and
one hits bedrock. That bedrock is limestone — alkaline
and drying to plant roots, porous and unable to support
ponds or canals of fresh water for irrigation. With most of
the rain falling in just a few months of the year, and very
little of it falling in the coolest months when some crops
grow best, neatly-rowed gardens just won’t do here.
Traditionally around April and May, Caicos Islands
farmers will cut their fields. Using a cutlass (machete),
brush, trees, and shrubs are slashed, leaving only the tree
trunks in place on a plot anywhere up to several acres in
size. This cut vegetation is strategically placed and
allowed to dry, at which point it is set on fire around June,
releasing nutritive ash into the soil. By then the hurricaneseason
rains are threatening to begin and it is time to
plant. Caicos Island farmers use the same method that
supported the Lucayan Indians for centuries in TCI — the
“Three Sisters” method, where three crop species are
planted together to help one another grow.
The first crops planted are maize, sweet potatoes,
and bean vines along with pumpkin. The sweet potato
and pumpkin vines form a dense blanket of ground-covering
leaves, helping to choke out weeds and shade the
bare soil from drying sun and wind, preserving precious
moisture. The maize stalks provide climbing structures
for the bean vines, which soon scramble up the remaining
tree trunks too. The bean vines, using special bacteriahosting
root structures, fix nitrogen into the soil from the
air, effectively fertilising the other crops. These crops are
the “Three Sisters” of TCI, and crops planted later including
okra, guinea-corn (sorghum), pigeon peas, cassava,
and sugar cane.
Visiting Cuban crows drop papaya seeds that sprout
into fast-growing trees. Banana, plantain, and pompone
(a small, fat dessert banana) suckers are planted to fill in
gaps. Tomatoes, peppers, cabbages, and callaloo are
planted in the cooler months to provide table vegetables.
None of these crops are planted in rows — they are put in
wherever the soil is deep enough to contain their roots.
From top: This freshly slashed-and-burned field will be ready for planting
as the first wet-season rains arrive in May. Though large trees are
killed by the fire, the area will recover within several years.
Sweet potato vines shade the ground, preserving precious dry-season
moisture. On the right, sugar cane is grown in a fall, or low area. On
the left grows pompone, a local dessert banana, short and nearly
square in cross-section.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
From top: Cassava (foreground) of the sweet variety is grown in second-year
fields, such as this one that is going fallow. The large
pawpaw (wild papaya) trees in the background produce an edible, if
musky fruit, and grew from seeds deposited by Cuban crows in search
of green maize.
Sweet potato vines in a second-year dry season field begin clambering
up tree trunks killed in the original burning, replacing the bean vines
that were present in the first year.
Bean and pumpkin vines scramble for light across
other crop plants. Banana and cane stalks lean over lumps
of twining sweet potato vines. Pigeon peas arch out,
blooming red and yellow, while maize becomes all but
lost in the show. The result is a tangled jungle of crops
barely recognisable as deliberate cultivation — but it
works exceptionally well.
A recent loss survey carried out after Tropical Storm
Cristobal by the Department of Agriculture on North
Caicos revealed the importance of this subsistence agriculture
on the Caicos Islands. About one hundred
individual farmers rely directly upon these fields for their
families’ meals, and countless more depend on these
farmers to sell their extra for local consumption. The
intensity of the agriculture, without irrigation, pesticides,
or fertilisers, depletes the soil in just a few years. When
the last hauls of pigeon peas and cassava are pulled from
the ground, the field is permitted to lie fallow until it
reverts to limestone scrub. Another field patch is prepared
to replace it in a new location.
At the Caicos Heritage House on the Museum’s campus
in the Village at Grace Bay, I am developing such a
traditional field where seasonal local crops are being
grown adjacent to a garden of medicinal wild plants (bush
medicine was often collected along the “field-roads,” agricultural
access footpaths). While the aspect of burning has
to be left out for practical reasons, the area will be otherwise
authentic — and hopefully just as untidy as the
genuine article.
Slash-and-burn agriculture gets a bad rap from ecologists,
but when supporting a low population in an
ecosystem that tolerates wildfire exceptionally well (some
habitats, like the Caicos pine yard and fanner grass meadows,
even require periodical burning to stay healthy), it is
actually quite a workable system for subsistence farmers
to use. It doesn’t lend itself to mechanization and industrialisation,
but then neither does the geography of Caicos
farmland. It’s not a showcase of food security — outsiders
would be hard-pressed to identify a subsistence farm
patch at a glance. A makeshift scarecrow (occasionally,
doubling as a Guy Fawkes effigy!) and some charred
stumps will reveal a farm patch though. There will be food
under one’s feet, to one’s right and left, even over one’s
head. . . ❁
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Museum matters
Brass it out
Some visitors to the new “Golden Age of Grand Turk”
exhibit may have noticed that the clockwork in the lighthouse
exhibit is missing some of its cover plates and
hardware. We don’t know exactly how old the clockwork
is or when it was installed, but it could be original
equipment installed 163 years ago in 1852. So it isn’t
too surprising that some small parts were lost over that
time. All the critical parts were preserved, but four
brass plates designed to cover the bearings on which
the various shafts turned were missing, along with the
screws that held them in place. In addition, the tiny
“speed alarm” sensor had a bent driveshaft, two damaged
teeth on its bevel gear, and was missing one of its
contacts.
As you can well imagine, these are not items you
can find on Amazon or even eBay! The only alternative
was to figure out how to make new parts using old ones
for patterns. Even the screws were not available commercially
because the thread size, pitch, and even the
shape of the heads conformed to some kind of unusual
British standard abandoned long ago.
After casting about for months with no success, by
sheer coincidence I met Jeff Robison, an expert machinist
living in Santa Fe, New Mexico, who took an interest
in the Museum’s dilemma. When I took the pieces to
him I was amazed by the equipment he had in his home
workshop. It would be the envy of many a commercial
machine shop. I was also surprised when he showed no
reluctance to make the three different-size fasteners, as
well as the brass cover plates. Making screws is a
tedious, time-consuming process. The metal stock has
to be the right alloy: strong but not brittle, tough, but
workable. Each one has to be machined individually!
I cringed when I asked Jeff how long it would take
and what it would cost to do the whole project because
I knew it was going to be a big job. He just said, “Well,
let’s see what happens.” Jeff’s “day job” as a machinist
at Los Alamos National Laboratories meant that the only
time he had to work on the Museum’s project was
nights and weekends, so it took a few weeks. But in the
end, the 32 screws of different sizes and four brass
plates matched the patterns perfectly and the speed
Above: Three of the bearings on this side of the clockwork cabinet
have lost their brass covers and the screws that hold them in place.
Inset: The speed alarm sensor is surrounded by the reproduction
brass parts Jeff Robison made to repair the clockwork.
alarm sensor was better than new. He wouldn’t accept
any payment or tell me how many hours he put into it.
He said he just wanted to help the Museum and hoped
to visit Grand Turk one day to see what it was all about.
It’s this kind of generous donation of time and
expertise that keeps the Museum going. Thanks, Jeff! ❁
Story & Photos By Dr. Donald H. Keith
Hands-on learning about the Lucayans
The Grade Three class of The International School of the
Turks & Caicos Islands, accompanied by teachers
Tracey Nesbit and Irene Danics, were the first group of
students to visit the Museum’s Grace Bay Campus,
which is still in its developmental stage. The class is
studying the Lucayan Indians and attempted to produce
tools and jewelry referencing the Museum displays and
their text using materials found in the natural environment
like sticks and conch shells. We quickly found out
that it took great skill to make tools that were func-
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Museum matters continued . . .
Raising the roof
In January 2015 the Caicos Heritage House received a
facelift of sorts. It’s a tricky balance, trying to keep to
traditional styles in a modern world. The Caicos
Heritage House was uninsurable, due to the real
thatched roof which had no resistance to fire, pests,
thievery, or the elements.
Quixotic’s workmen install the faux thatch.
JANICE BELISLE
Students show off the Lucayan tools they made.
tional. However, this very creative group was up to the
challenge and succeeded in the end, having fun in the
process! We look forward to being a learning resource
to more groups in the future. ❁
Story & Photo By Museum Manager Candianne Williams
Back in the day . . .
The Museum recently received the donation of a number
of photographs taken on Providenciales “back in the day.”
Janice Belisle and her husband Edward started coming to
Provo in 1978. Of particular interest are color photos of
the Sapodilla Hill inscriptions, which help to fill out our
record of the degradation and disappearance of the
stones and their inscriptions over time. It is unfortunate
that they have suffered more damage in the last 10 years
than in the previous 200! Some are now displayed in the
Museum’s headquarters in the Village at Grace Bay, while
three dozen others are in safe storage. ❁
The “Palestine” inscription, one of the largest and best of the
Sapodilla stones, tells many stories.
Pat Saxton researched varied roofing products
before selecting a faux thatch manufactured by
AmaZulu out of Florida. Its realistic features include
imprints of the palm fronds on both the outside and
underside, adding a three-dimensional look when seen
from inside the Heritage House. The roof was installed
by Quixotic Limited, led by Chester Delancy. Neil Saxton
met with Mr. Delancy many times in Providenciales to
discuss the technical issues associated with installing a
new roofing product. Once installed, all parties agreed
. . . faux was the way to go! ❁
Join the Museum
Become a Member and receive a year’s subscription to
Times of the Islands (which includes Astrolabe), free
admission to the Museum, and a Members’ Discount in
the Museum Shop.
Senior (62+) $35 • Individual $50
Family 2 Adults/2 Children $90 • Friend (4 adults) $125
Sponsor $250• Contributor $500 • Partner $750
To join*, send name, address, email, and type of
membership, along with cheque or money order
payable to “Turks & Caicos National Museum” to:
Friends of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
39 Condesa Road
Santa Fe, NM 87508 USA
Or, visit:
www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/
*For U.S. residents, support of the Museum is tax-deductible via
Friends of the Turks & Caicos National Museum, Attn: Donald H.
Keith, 39 Condesa Road, Santa Fe NM 87508, our affiliated institution
and registered 501 (c) (3) in Corpus Christi, Texas.
CANDIANNE WILLIAMS
74 www.timespub.tc

faces and places
Valentine’s Day Cup 2015
Bambarra Beach on Middle Caicos was the place to be this Valentine’s Day, February 14. It was the site of one of the
TCI’s most-beloved cultural events, the model sailboat races. Starting with a half-dozen boats and a handful of friends
nearly 15 years ago, the Valentine’s Day Cup is now a national event, drawing residents and visitors. With over 25
boats in the Middle Caicos Sailboat Association fleet, plus over 10 boats coming in with their captains, the races are
more serious and skillful! The boats are traditionally built from large branches of the “gum elemi” tree, also known
as Gumbo Limbo. The sail plan reflects all the actual rigging found on a full-size sloop, and each boat has its weatherboard
to stabilize it as the wood is very light and there
is no weight in the keel.
This type of model boat was a common childhood
treasure in the Islands, with children and adults involved
in carving, building, and racing their sailboats. The boats
are sailed in shallow waters by running alongside to
adjust the tiller and trim the sails.
This not-for-profit event is organized each year by
Middle Caicos Co-op and Middle Caicos Co-op Services for
the Middle Caicos Sailing Organization. It is a full day of
fun for all ages, with music, dancing, native food and
drink, a number of races in various categories and an
awards ceremony.
Photos By Marisa Findlay Photography
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 75

the sporting life
Opposite page: Graceway Sports Centre’s new tennis professional Juergen Richter coaches a well-received Junior Tennis Academy.
Above: The fitness gym is the Islands’ largest and best-equipped; a cool, clean place to work out.
A Celebration of Sports
For 12 years, Graceway Sports Centre has served the sporting community.
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos By Ileana Ravasio, Attimi Photography
Whether a heavily padded hockey player weaving through the hall on roller blades, racket-wielding
sportster on the way to a game of tennis, impossibly lithe girl scampering to a gymnastics lesson, or
burly body builder lumbering into the gym, any given day at Graceway Sports Centre reflects a colorful
cross section of the TCI sporting community. It’s a joyful gathering of people of all ages, shapes, and
shades, eager to experience the fun and benefits that sports and exercise offer to all. Welcoming, clean,
safe, and well-equipped, the Graceway Sports Centre is the ideal venue to bring together this celebration
of sports.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 77

It’s hard to believe that the Graceway Sports Center
(GSC) will be a dozen years old this year. The large building
behind Graceway IGA and its surrounding courts and
fields have been richly serving the Providenciales sporting
community since September 2003. In recent years,
GSC has benefited from a solid management team, excellent
staff, and step-by-step revitalization that has made it
better than ever. The most recent improvement is the hiring
of a new tennis professional who is taking the tennis
program to a higher level.
Sports are key to maintaining healthy bodies and
minds, increasing self-esteem, enhancing social skills,
and fostering positive values such as perseverance and
dedication for people of all ages, but especially youth.
Prior to 2003, many of Provo’s best sports facilities were
“quarantined” within tourist resorts and not available to
the community.
Clive Stanbrook was a driving force among a group
of investors who, he says, “Conceived and built Graceway
Sports Centre to be a facility in which all Island residents
could join together for recreation and sporting activities.
In particular, the country’s youth will have an international
venue in which to develop their skills.” The twelve
founders provided the funds for the initial facility, and
from the design stages, local talent was used whenever
possible to bring the building from groundbreaking to
completion in less than a year.
Graceway Sports Centre is the largest free-standing
steel structure in the Islands, enclosing 24,000 square
feet. The fully air conditioned complex includes a custom-lit,
international standard indoor basketball court,
retractable bleacher seating for 600, and lockers, changing
rooms and showers for men and women. The split
second level is home to Provo’s largest and best equipped
gym and a 2,000 sq. ft. aerobics/dance/martial arts studio.
The lower level offers a concession stand, retail outlet
for sports equipment and children’s play area, with wireless
Internet available throughout.
The main hall can accommodate 300 people and is
suitable for a range of sporting activities and private
events. (It’s a special favorite for kid’s birthday parties.)
Currently it is home to the Provo Hockey League (indoor
ball hockey), and a venue for basketball, soccer, volleyball,
table tennis, and badminton. Graceway Sports Centre
also boasts the Islands’ only squash courts — two official
international courts with comfortable air-ride wood flooring,
kept air conditioned around the clock.
Outdoors, the building flanks the Turks & Caicos
Islands Football Association (TCIFA) football fields and
four professional tennis courts with lights for refreshing
night play.
Having been a dedicated member since its inception,
I have seen GSC grow and develop, most especially since
Adina Ciurar became the marketing and business manager
in 2011. A native of Romania, Adina brought to the
job extensive experience in business management, some
serious fitness skills, and a determination and perseverance
to see the center thrive. Under her leadership, the
Besides indoor soccer (shown here), Graceway Sports Centre’s huge arena is a venue for indoor ball hockey, basketball, volleyball, table tennis,
and badminton.
78 www.timespub.tc

New tennis program is a smash!
Juergen Richter is Graceway Sports Centre’s new tennis
professional, bringing a wealth of experience,
enthusiasm, and energy to the four top-quality courts.
Juergen is originally from Germany, has also coached all
over Europe, and, for the last 10 years, served as Tennis
Director at the prestigious Pacific Fitness Club in Hong
Kong. Here, he supervised six tennis coaches and 800+
members of the tennis club, organizing clinics, round
robins, tournaments, and other events.
Juergen is especially eager to bring together the
Islands’ far-flung tennis community of over 100 players
and create a league, where three to four clubs can collaborate
and compete in sponsored tournaments. He
says tennis is a “social sport,” and encourages players
to get to know each other, creating various levels of play
and official rankings. He plans a series of five to six tournaments
involving adults (tourists welcome) and kids,
with the first scheduled for Easter this year.
Since his arrival in Provo in mid-January 2015, he
has already started a Junior Tennis Academy for nearly
50 children on Saturday mornings, as well as afterschool
tennis classes. For this he utilizes many fun and
German-born Juergen Richter brings to TCI a wealth of experience,
encouraging training exercises, including a Mickey enthusiasm, and energy for coaching and organizing tennis clubs.
Mouse ball target for 3 to 6 year olds.
GSC has an adult tennis social club, open to everyone from beginners to advanced players, tourists and guests.
It meets on Saturday mornings for mixed social games, with both adult men and ladies social play on Monday and
Tuesday evenings, respectively.
Juergen utilizes his strong professional experience
to teach both one-on-one and group tennis
lessons, with very flexible hours to suit the learners’
schedules. He offers ladies and co-ed group lessons;
beginner and advanced classes. Juergen also plans to
open a tennis shop at GSC, where players can buy
shoes, balls, racquets, and other equipment, and benefit
from a re-stringing service.
What drew Juergen to the relatively slow-paced
life in Turks & Caicos from bustling Hong Kong?
Surprisingly, so far he says the weather is better here
and, in spite of his seemingly bottomless energy, he
claims to want to slow down a bit after the intense and
For the Junior Tennis Academy, Coach Juergen “serves up” fun and
encouraging training exercises.
fast-paced life in Hong Kong. ❁
An adult tennis membership is only $45/month ($450 annual); a junior membership is $30/month. Members
enjoy priority for booking tennis courts, discounted rates for private and group lessons; access to package offers
and class cards; and free tennis lessons, as bonuses to the packages.
For tennis inquiries, call 649 442 6350 or email tennis@gracewaysports.com.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 79

Among the many sporting activities at Graceway Sports Centre are
(from top): spinning classes, air-conditioned squash courts, and gymnastics
training for children.
gym membership has grown from 67 members to 300,
with the fitness gym doubling its pieces of Cybex equipment
to 52, enlarging the functional surface, and gaining
a clean, (cool!) well-maintained, and environmentally-conscious
aura. Adina is also a highly skilled personal trainer
and group fitness instructor and her friendly smile hides
a dogged determination to make you sweat! Weekly fitness
classes include step aerobics, tae-bo, cardio intervals,
boxercise, yoga, and spinning.
Adina’s husband Paul joined the team in 2012, where
he is using his qualifications as a fitness trainer to supervise
the gym and his vast experience as a Qwan-Ki-Do
black belt to teach martial arts. Here, the AM-DUONG Club
offers students of all experience levels the opportunity to
learn QWAN KI DO, a mixture of traditional Chinese and
Vietnamese Kung Fu. Besides teaching a variety of techniques
to his now over 30 students, Paul says his kid’s
program uses the art of Kung Fu to teach children respect
for self and others, diligence, effort, leadership, and
peace-keeping skills. For more information, visit
www.qwankido.tc.
I can think of many parents who owe a debt of gratitude
to Graceway Sports Centre’s acclaimed Kid’s Camps
— held during every major school holiday and the summer.
Qualified counselors supervise small groups (7 to 8
kids, divided into ages 5 to 8 and 9 to 12) as they rotate
through a six-hour daily program of sporting and nonsporting
activities that combine fun and learning in a very
safe environment. Activities during the 2014 Summer
Camp ranged from basketball, soccer, and volleyball
games to scavenger hunts, arts and crafts, squash, and
American football. Best of all, you can’t beat the price of
$20/day ($15 for additional siblings).
All year long, kids enjoy dance and gymnastics training
through the Breaking Free Dance Academy, offering
ballet, modern dance, and hip-hop lessons by local dance
professional Shara Goldsmith. Yoga classes are offered
once a week by TCI’s multi-talented Director of Culture
David Bowen and at only $10 per session, they are a steal.
Adina believes Graceway Sports Centre will remain
successful because it has a long history of giving back.
Besides supporting various charities, GSC offers free
access to Provo Primary School students for their Physical
Education classes, preferential rates to British West Indies
Collegiate students, and allows the International School
access to the indoor court at a discounted fee. During
January 2012 to December 2014, Adina has led free Boot
Camps to help local people get in shape.
Graceway Sports Centre is one of the most healthy,
wholesome places on the island. It is filled with the positive
energy of people who have a passion for the benefits
of fitness and sports. Check it out! ❁
For information on opening hours, memberships, and current
activities, visit www.gracewaysports.com or call
(649) 442 6348.
80 www.timespub.tc

EXPERIENCE TOTAL
TRANSFORMATION
REVIVE AND RESTORE WITH RESULTS-ORIENTED SPA THERAPIES
facials | massage | nails | waxing | thai stretch
FIND YOUR CORE IN OUR AWARD-WINNING FITNESS CLASSES
Core Fusion | barre | barre+cardio | yoga
Yoga | power | flow | chill
Visit exhalespa.com to begin your journey.
Grace Bay Beach, Providenciales, Turks + Caicos
649.941.7555 | exhalespa.com | gansevoorttc.com
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 81

shape up
Bite into a healthy lifestyle
By Tamika Handfield MS, RD, Nutrition in Demand
Every year, during the month of March, the
Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics (AND) celebrates
National Nutrition Month. The theme for this year’s celebration
is “Bite into a Healthy Lifestyle.” According to
AND, this theme is an easy reminder that achieving a
healthy lifestyle is not based on a particular food, drink,
or pill, nor is it achieved overnight. Instead, it is a lifelong
process of making good food choices, eating the
right amount of calories, and getting daily exercise.
1. Make good food choices
Maybe you have heard of “clean eating.” This is eating
foods that have very little or no saturated fats, added
sugars and sodium, but are high in fiber, vitamins and
minerals. Clean eating also refers to the method used to
prepare the foods — for example, baking instead frying.
The clean eating method encourages you to eat
whole foods such as fruits, vegetables, nuts, beans, and
high fiber, complex carbohydrates. Highly processed
foods such as hot dogs, spam, and bologna, to name a
few, are highly discouraged because they are so high in
fats, sodium, preservatives, and calories.
2. Eat the right amount of calories
Making good food choices helps with eating the right
amount of calories. Foods that are recommended when
eating clean are nutritionally dense foods. That is, they
give you lots of nutrition for fewer calories. Eating fewer
calories lead to better weight control, leading to better
overall health because your chances of developing a
chronic disease due to obesity are lowered.
Knowing your caloric budget depends on various
factors such as your height, weight, gender and age.
There is no “one size fits all” calorie amount. This is
where the expertise of a Registered Dietitian (RD) is critical;
an RD can help you determine the right amount of
calories for you and help you choose foods that meet
your individual nutrient needs.
diet!” That confirms to me
that getting daily exercise and
the benefits it brings are just
“icing on the cake.” (Yes, I
know it’s a bad analogy, but
you get the idea that it really
helps to round off a healthy lifestyle.)
Exercise is a stress buster, helps to control weight,
improves learning and concentration, protects the heart
. . . and the list goes on. A common question is what
type of exercise should I do and for how long? The
Center for Disease Control (CDC), recommends adults
get at least 2 1/2 hours of moderate-intensity aerobic
activity (i.e., brisk walking or light jog) every week and
muscle-strengthening activities on two or more days a
week. It is important to choose activities that you enjoy
so that it does not seem like a chore.
Of course, these are not the only habits that help
you to develop a healthy lifestyle. Drinking enough
water, getting enough sleep, and managing your stress
levels are all conducive to overall health. As you begin
to cultivate a healthy lifestyle, consider it a journey
instead of a destination. On a journey, there may be
falls and failures but you get back up and continue on.
So, as you start your journey, “Bite into a Healthy
M
Lifestyle” one food at a time! ❁
Nutrition in Demand, , a non profit raising awareness to
the importance of health and healthy eating
Motto: eating healthy today... living longer, better tomorrow
• Educational workshops for seniors, adults, children & teenagers
• Nutrition and physical activity summer camp
• Nutrition education and culinary class for children
• Weight loss support groups
• Nutrition education for mass media
To donate to our non profit or to one of our programs,
visit our website: www.nutritionindemand.com
Plan to run with us in paradise on Jan 9th 2016 for Move-a-thon TCI 2016
For individual Medical Nutrition Therapy counseling, corporate wellness
and lunch & learns, please contact Mrs. Tamika Handfeld MS, RD
Provo Plaza No.5, Leeward Highway
Cell: (649) 242-3978 or (649) 442-3978
3. Daily exercise
I’ve read somewhere that “You can’t out-train a bad
82 www.timespub.tc

shape up
Breathe
By Edward Shearer BSc(Hons)OM, MBAcC, Acupuncture TCI
Stop and breathe. Cliché? Inhaling is the first thing
we do when we are born and exhaling the final physical
activity when we expire. In life we seek and thrive on
inspiration, but depend on respiration. We can survive
weeks without food, days without water; but without air
our lives are measured in minutes. When planning a
new healthy lifestyle, diet, or fitness routine, we are too
often focused on external goals. We miss the most simple
and effective tool at our disposal that will actually
give us the health-foundation, energy, healing, mental
clarity, and motivation to achieve our goals.
Correct breathing is not about taking in more air or
just deep-breathing, it is about slowing down. In fact,
you want to take in less air. An unhealthy or sick person
breathes faster. By slowing our breathing down, we
actually simultaneously raise our CO 2 and O 2 levels.
This stimulates the parasympathetic nervous system
triggering all sorts of physiological changes such as pH
level, metabolism, heart rate, and blood pressure reduction,
which we experience as mood elevation and stress
reduction as our energy levels increase.
What is “correct” breathing? Just observe your
breath. This immediately changes how you breathe.
Nothing more is needed. Through breath observation
alone, correct breathing can be restored. The breath
becomes slow, quiet, long, and regular. Do not try and
control breath. Your body–mind has its own immeasurable
intelligence. Just stay out the way. There are
numerous breathing exercises from yogic (pranayama)
or Daoist (qigong) traditions but reconnection to basic
abdominal “natural” breathing is a prerequisite.
It is beneficial to understand the basic mechanism
of breathing. The lungs do not do the breathing. The
diaphragm, intercostal (ribs), and neck muscles do that.
In the resting state we want our breath to be predominantly
performed by the diaphragm, a dome-shaped
muscle separating our thoracic and abdominal cavities.
When the diaphragm contracts, it pulls down and
enlarges the thoracic cavity, thus creating a vacuum and
air fills the lungs. Exhalation is simply a matter of relaxing.
The air will leave on its own accord as the thoracic
cavity returns to neutral. So
many of us have forgotten
how to or hardly ever breath
in this way. Watch a child or
pet sleeping. It is efficient,
relaxed, effortless. On the
other hand superficial breathing is associated with
stress, anxiety, even panic, a state we find ourselves in
all too often and seek to escape by grasping for distractions.
Breath needs to be practiced. Bad habits unlearned.
Re-trained. I can almost hear you asking: if
breathing is natural and automatic, then why do I need
to train it? We are creatures of habit and our breathing
changes in response to our thoughts and emotions. Our
thoughts and emotions are also habitual and thus longterm
thought and emotional patterns lead to long-term
breathing habits. This is easy to prove — just observe
your or somebody else’s breathing as their emotions
change. Now, if your breathing fluctuates with your
thoughts and feelings, then why can’t you change what
you think and feel through breathing?
Breath is a gift. It is so simple. Why overlook something
so profoundly important to life just because it is
simple? ❁
Edward Shearer is an acupuncturist and avid Chinese
martial arts and qigong practitioner with 20 years of
experience. He is founder of Acupuncture TCI and Turks
& Caicos Tai Chi. He has a passionate interest in natural
health and well-being and wants to share this
knowledge through healthcare and education. He is
trained in traditional Chinese acupuncture specialising
in an array of complaints from the simple to the complex
such as pain relief, chronic conditions, sports
injuries and performance, stress related symptoms,
and facial rejuvenation. For more information, see
www.acupuncturetci.com, email ed@acupuncturetci.com,
or call (649) 244 7787.
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 83

about the Islands
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, the
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.
Where we are
The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast
of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — with
the Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and the
Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.
The country consists of two island groups separated
by the 22 mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are
the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To
the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s
population is approximately 32,000.
Getting here
There are international airports on Grand Turk, North
Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic
airports on all of the islands except East Caicos.
However, at this time all of the major international carriers
arrive and depart from Providenciales International
Airport. American Airlines flies twice daily from Miami and
from Dallas on Saturday. U.S. Airways offers daily service
from Charlotte and from Philadelphia on Saturday. JetBlue
Airways offers daily service from New York/JFK and a
Boston flight on Saturday. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta
and New York/JFK daily, and from Boston on Saturday.
United Airlines travels from Newark daily except Tuesday,
Wednesday, and Thursday.
West Jet travels from Toronto on Monday, Wednesday,
Friday and Saturday, and from Montreal on Friday and
Sunday. Air Canada offer flights from Toronto on daily
except Tuesday and Thursday, and from Montreal on
84 www.timespub.tc

Saturday. British Airways travels on Sunday from
London/Heathrow via Nassau.
Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Tuesday, Thursday, and
Sunday; Inter-caribbean Airways travels on Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday. Inter-caribbean Airways travels to
the Dominican Republic and Haiti daily, to Jamaica on
Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, and to Puerto
Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday. (Schedules are
current as of March 2014 and subject to change.)
Inter-island service is provided by Inter-caribbean
Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea
and air freight services operate from Florida.
Language
English.
Time zone
Eastern Standard Time/Daylight Savings Time observed.
Currency
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S. dollars
are widely accepted and other currency can be
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.
Climate
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The
hottest months are September and October, when the temperature
can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However, the
consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and keep
life comfortable.
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing
and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out
in the tropical sun.
Entry requirements
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.
Customs formalities
Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton
of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,
and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including
those charged with compressed air without prior
approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.
Island Auto Rentals & Sales is
committed to adding value to your
tropical vacation experience
by delivering excellent service
along with secure and reliable
transportation that will take you
where you need to go.
EXCELLENT SERVICE • GREAT VALUE
SECURE • RELIABLE TRANSPORTATION
Leeward Palms, Leeward, Providenciales
Telephone: (649) 246-0395 or 232-0933 or 946-2042
Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com or
philipgibson251@hotmail.com
Web: islandautorentals.tc
For Vehicle Rental in
Grand Turk call
232 0933 or 946 2042
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 85

about the Islands
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of merchandise
per person duty free. A duty of 10% to 60% is
charged on most imported goods along with a 7% customs
processing fee and forms a major source of government
revenue.
Transportation
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting
vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all rental
contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the left-hand
side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by roundabouts
at major junctions. Please don’t drink and drive!
Taxis are abundant throughout the Islands and many
resorts offer shuttle service between popular visitor areas.
Scooter, ATV, and bicycle rentals are also available.
Telecommunications
LIME Ltd. provides service on a totally digital 4G network,
including pre-paid phone cards, pre-paid cellular phones,
credit card, and calling card options. Broadband Internet
service, with speeds as fast as 8Mbps, connects the Islands
to the world. Most resorts offer wireless Internet connection
and there are several private Internet cafés. Digicel
and Islandcom Wireless operate GSM mobile networks,
with a full suite of 4G service. Islandcom is the local carrier
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon
and Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular
handsets and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can
arrange international roaming.
Electricity
120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.
Departure tax
US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in cash
or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into the cost of
your ticket.
Courier service
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is
limited to incoming delivery.
Postal service
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is
located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk, the
Post Office is on Front Street, with the Philatelic Bureau on
Church Folly. The Islands are known for their varied and
colorful stamp issues.
Media
Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S.
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air. Local
station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island EyeTV
on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally transmitted
television stations, along with local news and talk
shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of local
radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.
Medical services
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.
Both hospitals offer a full range of services including: 24/7
emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic imaging,
maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank, physiotherapy,
and dentistry.
In addition, several general practictioners operate in
the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along
with a number of private pharmacies.
Immigration
A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A
work permit and business license are also required to
work and/or establish a business. These are generally
granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications
not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given
to enterprises that will provide employment and training
for T&C Islanders.
Government/Legal system
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed
Governor, HE Peter Beckingham. He presides over an executive
council formed by the elected local government. PNP
Leader Dr. Rufus Ewing is the country’s premier.
The legal system is based upon English Common Law
and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court of
Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final
Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.
Taxes
There are currently no direct taxes on either income or
capital for individuals or companies. There are no
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs
86 www.timespub.tc

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,
restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline,
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.
Economy
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt.
Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry, and fishing
generate the most private sector income. The Islands’
main exports are lobster and conch, with the world’s first
commercial conch farm operating on Providenciales.
Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs are
imported.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an
important offshore financial centre, offering services such
as company formation, offshore insurance, banking,
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.
The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry
and spearheads the development of offshore legislation.
People
Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African
slaves who were brought to the Islands to work on the salt
ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large expatriate
population includes Canadians, Americans, Brits and
Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans, Dominicans,
Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.
Churches
Churches are the center of community life and there are
many faiths represented in the Islands, including:
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i, Baptist,
Catholic, Church of God of Prophecy, Episcopal, Faith
Tabernacle Church of God, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Methodist
and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.
Pets
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test
results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain clearance
from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal
Health Services.
National symbols
The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).
The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium
bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The National
Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var. bahamensis).
The National Costume consists of white cotton
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 87

dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts and
loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing
the various islands are displayed on the sleeves and bases.
Scarfs, sashes, and hat bands correspond to the color representing
the wearer’s island home. The National Song is
“This Land of Ours,” by Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and
Hominy (Grits) with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic
island fare.
Going green
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling services
through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,
glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading
a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.
Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible. Keep
TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!
Recreation
Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba
diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and beachcombing.
Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and
excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination.
Tennis and golf—there is an eighteen hole
championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.
The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in
thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,
and areas of historical interest. The National Trust provides
trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as guided
tours of major historical sites. There is an excellent
national museum on Grand Turk, with a future branch
planned for Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and a selection
of tour operators make it easy to take day trips to the
outer islands.
Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback
riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are
available to motivate you, working out of several fitness
centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment
services.
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music at
bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is a
casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic gaming
parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,
sports and beachwear, shells, and locally made handicrafts,
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free
outlets sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather
goods, crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name
clothing and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. ❁
88 www.timespub.tc

where to stay
Grand Turk
range of daily rates
US$ (subject to change)
number of units
major credit cards
restaurant
bar
air conditioning
phone in unit
television in unit
kitchen in unit
laundry service
pool
on the beach
H
The Arches of Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •
Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •
Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •
Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •
Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–185 8 • • • • • • •
Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •
Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •
Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •
Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •
White Sands Beach Resort – Tel 649 242 1991 • Web whitesandstci.com 130–150 16 • • • • • • • • •
Middle Caicos
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Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •
North Caicos
H
Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •
Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •
Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •
Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •
Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •
JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •
Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •
Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •
Pine Cay
H
The Meridian Club - Tel 649 946 7758/866 746 3229 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • •
Parrot Cay
H
Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 877 754 0726/649 946 7788 • Web www.parrotcay.como.bz 450–4370 65 • • • • • • • • • •
Providenciales
G
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Airport Inn - Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •
The Alexandra Resort & Spa - Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •
The Atrium Resort - Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.theatriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •
Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.amanresorts.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •
Aquamarine Beach Houses - Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •
Beaches Resort & Spa - Tel 800-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 453 • • • • • • • • •
Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •
Best View Villa – Tel 305 766 8336 – Web www.BestViewtci.com 1 • • • • • • •
Blue Haven Resort & Marina - Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •
Caribbean Paradise Inn - Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.paradise.tc 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •
Club Med Turkoise - Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •
Coral Gardens on Grace Bay - Tel 877 746 7800 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •
Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 877 774 3253/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •
Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5757 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 59 • • • • • • • • • •
Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •
Harbour Club Villas - Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •
Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.levele.tc 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •
La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •
Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •
Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •
Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5461 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •
Ocean Point Villas - Tel 649 941 5043 • Web www.oceanpointvillas.com 343–2071 10 • • • • • • • •
Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •
Point Grace - Tel 888 682 3705/649 946 5096 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •
Ports of Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.portsofcallresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 89

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where to stay
range of daily rates US$
(subject to change)
number of units
major credit cards
restaurant
bar
air conditioning
phone in unit
television in unit
kitchen in unit
laundry service
pool
on the beach
Providenciales (continued)
Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •
Reef Residences at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275–385 24 • • • • • • •
The Regent Grand – Tel 877 537 3314/649 941 7770 • Web www.TheRegentGrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •
Regent Palms – Tel 866 877 PALM • Web www.regentpalmstci.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •
Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •
The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.thesandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •
Seven Stars Resort – Tel 866 570 7777/649 941 7777 – Web www.SevenStarsResort.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •
Sibonné – Tel 800 528 1905/649 946 5547 • Web www.Sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •
The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 946 5900/877 887 5722 • Web www.TheSomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •
Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–180 30 • • • • • • • •
The Tuscany – Tel 649 941 4667 • Web www.thetuscanygracebay.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •
The Venetian Grace Bay – Tel 877 277 4793 • Web www.thevenetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •
Venetian Ridge Villas – Tel 649 341 8045 • Web www.VenetianRidgeVillas.com 99–149 16 • • • • •
Villa del Mar – Tel 877 238 4058/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •
Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitc.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •
Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •
The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •
Villa Tropidero – Tel 303 670 2628 • Web www.villatropidero.com 4500–6000W 3 • • • • • • •
West Bay Club – Tel 866 607 4156/649 946 8550 • Web www.TheWestBayClub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •
Windsong – Tel 649 941 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •
The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •
Salt Cay
Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •
Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •
Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •
Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •
Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •
Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •
The Villas of Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villasofsaltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •
South Caicos
South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219
Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •
H
G
Hotel & Tourism Association Member
Green Globe Certified • Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge
Contemporary Style with Bermudian Influences
This centrally located 4 bedroom/3.5 bathroom executive family home and an additional 1 bedroom/1 bathroom nanny suite is
4,545 square feet of open plan Caribbean living with exceptional breezes from its spectacular 75 feet of elevation. Located on .85
acres and surrounded by natural trees and vegetation, views of the Island and Ocean beyond can be enjoyed from every room.
Dee Agingu, Sales Executive
t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.231.3534
dee@tcsothebysrealty.com
Offered at $875,000 turksandcaicosSIR.com MLS# 1300629
Anna Richardson, Sales Associate
t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.232.7751
anna@tcsothebysrealty.com
90 www.timespub.tc

dining out – providenciales
Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet
cuisine for lunch and dinner with menu changing daily.
Anacaona — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Elegant beachfront
dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet Euro/Caribbean
cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge. Reservations required.
Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.
Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,
catering. Open daily 6:30 AM to 6 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.
Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-
3044. Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar.
Open for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly
from 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Carry-out available.
Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront
dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily
7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.
Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.
All-inclusive resort. A variety of restaurants and bars on premises.
Non-guests can purchase a pass.
Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:
946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Full bar and wine cellar. Indoor or
covered terrace seating above a tropical garden. Open daily for
dinner from 6 PM. Closed Sunday. Private catering available.
Big Al’s Island Grille — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide
selection of burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like
setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.
Blue Iguana Grill — Ports of Call. Tel: 339-8741. Fun, casual,
Caribbean-style restaurant and bar. Serving lunch and dinner
seven days.
Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. The
freshest seafood in Provo, conch prepared to order, rum, buckets
of beer, live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.
Bar open late.
Cabana Bar & Grille — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880 x 1104.
Casual island fare, pizza, burgers. Open daily from 7 AM to
9 PM. Tropical cocktails with a spectacular view of the sea.
Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Authentic French boulangerie.
Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,
pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.
Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.
Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining
on the deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.
Carambola Grill & Lounge — Airport Inn Plaza. Tel: 946-
8122. Generous portions of local and international fare at
moderate prices in a casual atmosphere. Catering available.
Chicken Chicken — Times Square, downtown Provo. Fast
food, fried chicken, native fare.
Chinson Jade Garden Pastries & Deli — Leeward Highway.
Tel: 941-3533. Caribbean pastries, fresh bakery and Jamaican
and Chinese cuisine. Lunch buffet/take-out. Open Monday to
Saturday, 7 AM to 8 PM; Sunday, 2 PM to 8 PM.
Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion of Asian
cuisines–light, healthy and delicious in a beautiful setting. Takeaway,
delivery, on-site dining. Open daily Noon to 3 PM and
5:30 to 10:30 PM. Closed Sunday.
Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive
resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in the evenings.
Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.
Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental
Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy of palms.
Serving dinner nightly from 6 PM. Closed Monday.
Corner Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724. Breakfast sandwiches,
specialty coffees, soups, salads, gourmet sandwiches
and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to 8:30 PM.
Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.
Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-
5186. Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private
tropical garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from
6 to 10 PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.
Catering, special events, private chef visits.
Crackpot Kitchen — The Village at Grace Bay. Tel: 941-3330.
Experience the Island feel, culture and the best of authentic
Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines with an International
twist. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Monday.
Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.
Island-fresh seafood from the ocean to your plate. Covered
beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.
Danny Buoy’s Irish Pub — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921.
Traditional Irish cuisine, standard American pub fare; imported
draught beers. Open for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.
Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs for sporting events.
The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining
and cocktails by the water’s edge. Open daily from Noon to 9:30
PM. Bonfire buffet on Sunday evenings. Live music nightly.
Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine
overlooking the “greens.” Open to all for lunch Monday to
Thursday and breakfast from 9 AM on Sunday. Friday Pub
Nights, Saturday BBQ.
Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.
Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and
cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.
Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Authentic
native cuisine, from seafood to soup. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM.
Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Authentic
Indian cuisine, including tandoori charcoal-oven specialties.
Open daily Noon to 3 PM, 5:30 PM to Midnight. Closed Tuesday.
Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports of Call. Tel:
946-5394. Cones, sundaes, shakes, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies
and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.
Gilley’s Cafe — At the airport. Tel: 946-4472. Burgers, sandwiches,
local food. Full bar. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.
Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.
Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.
Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under the stars or indoor
dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from 6
PM nightly. Reservations required. Weddings and receptions.
Greenbean — Harbour Town at Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-4830.
“Purveyors of fine java and greens.” Internet café, Starbucks®
coffee, salads, wraps, pizza, sandwiches, fresh bakery. Open
daily 7 AM to 6:30 PM.
The Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Casual
oceanfront poolside bistro, serving international bistro fare.
Cool cocktails at the swim-up bar. Open 7 AM to 9:30 PM daily.
Havana Club — Windsong Resort. Tel: 941-7700. Fine wine,
specialty coffees, decadent desserts, with comedy/magic shows
on Thursday, Friday and Saturday and music and sports nights.
Hemingways on the Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 91

941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,
pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by the pool.
Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.
Hole in the Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old
Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Authentic Jamaican/Island cuisine
where the locals go for jerk chicken. Full bar. Indoor A/C dining
or outdoors on the deck. Open 7 days from 8 AM. Cash only.
Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.
21 flavors of ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards
and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.
The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet
café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and coffee
delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.
Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports of Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place
for steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11
PM, (Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.
Kalooki’s Beach Restaurant & Bar — Blue Hills. Tel: 332-
3388. Caribbean-infused dishes in an oasis-like setting
overlooking the sea. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 AM to 10 PM;
Sunday 11 AM to 7 PM. Live music every Friday!
KItchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-
5800. Caribbean cuisine with hints of French and Asian fusion
and the chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10
PM daily.
Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.
Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.
Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.
Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Tuesday.
Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A
taste of Paris in TCI. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads,
tartines, tapas, nightly dinner specials. Open daily 7 AM to 10
PM. Closed Sunday.
Lemon 2 Go Coffee — Ventura House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:
941-4487. Gourmet coffeehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies,
croissants, yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to
7 PM, Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.
The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip
lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,
world music and the finest sunset location in Providenciales.
Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Authentic Italian “comfort
food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out ready-made
gourmet meals. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:
941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore
views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine
bar opens at 4 PM.
Mango Reef — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 946-8200. Beachfront
dining with International and Caribbean fare. Breakfast, lunch,
dinner daily from 8 AM to 10 PM. Sunset cocktails, live music.
Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet
coffees and teas, pizza, deli sandwiches, salads and fruits, grill
and rotisserie, groceries and sundries, wine, beer, and spirits.
Open daily from 7 AM to 8 PM.
Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.
Carefully crafted selection of sumptous and inspired sundaes,
with coffee, champagne and cocktails for the grown-ups! Open
Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.
Mother’s Pizza — Downtown Times Square. Tel: 941-4142.
Best pizza in the Turks & Caicos, available by the slice or the
island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on
Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.
Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight. Tel: 242-6780. Serving fresh
local seafood straight from the sea. Open daily 10 AM to 11 PM.
Noodle Bar + Kitchen — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550.
Delicious rice and noodle dishes and hearty staples with
uniquely Caribbean flavors and spices. Open for lunch and dinner
daily to 9:30 PM.
Opus — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885. Wine • Bar • Grill
International menu with Caribbean flair. Wine tastings. Serving
dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Closed Monday. Indoor/outdoor
dining. Conference facility, events, catering.
Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in
a setting of casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private
dining room available. Open for breakfast and dinner daily.
The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue
Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Authentic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18
flavors of Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.
Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Eric Wood
offers a global palate, interpreted locally. Lobster tank. Seafood
raw bar. Open daily for breakfast and dinner; Sunday Brunch.
Pelican Bay — Royal West Indies Resort. Tel: 941-2365.
Poolside restaurant and bar with French, Caribbean and Asian
fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.
Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-
8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily
11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.
Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club
Med. Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on the
beach. Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry
Fridays and Beach BBQ Saturdays.
Rickie’s The Wave Restaurant & Bar — La Vista Azul. Tel:
244-3231. Local fare, chicken, ribs, pasta. Sunset drinks. Dine
outdoors on the deck or in the air conditioned dining room.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront
restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11
PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.
Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.
Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking the marina.
Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local
flair. Open daily from 10 AM to 10 PM.
Seaside Café — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254. Casual fare,
burgers, salads, tropical drinks, served with panoramic views of
the ocean. Open daily from 8 AM to 10 PM. Kid-friendly.
Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary
cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Wednesday to
Saturday, 5:30 to 9:30 PM.
Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:
941-5090. Varied menu. Sports bar/game room with slots. Open
daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.
Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic
coffees and teas, sandwiches, salads and soup, pastries, as well
as gelato, sorbetto, smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM
to 7 PM.
Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:
941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on the beach.
Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.
Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 946-5746. Modern
Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6
to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ. Beach bar and grill
open for lunch 11:30 AM to 5 PM daily.
Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Authentic
92 www.timespub.tc

Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for
lunch and dinner daily.
Three Brothers Restaurant — Town Center Mall,
Downtown. Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Open
daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.
Three Queens Bar & Restaurant — Wheeland. Tel: 243-
5343. Oldest bar on Provo, serving Jamaican and Native dishes.
Serving lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.
Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Marina.
Tel: 941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black
Angus beef, pasta, pizzas and fresh fish. Wednesday chicken or
rib special. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Breakfast on weekends.
Via Veneto — Ports of Call. Tel: 941-2372. Authentic Italian
dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Serving lunch from
11:30 AM to 2 PM; snacks with wine and drinks from 5:30 PM
and dinner from 7:30 PM daily. Closed on Tuesday.
The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. Highend
cuisine and the finest wines in an inviting ambiance. Open
daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.
Yoshi’s Japanese Restaurant — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-
3374. Sushi bar menu plus Wagyu beef, Japanese curries. Open
daily Noon to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.
Zanzi Bar & Tapas Restaurant — Leeward Highway. Tel:
342-2472. Sophistication meets class at the new tapas eatery
and entertainment venue overlooking Grace Bay.
dining out – north caicos
Club Titters — Bottle Creek. Tel: 946-7316. Local dishes for
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Live music weekends.
Higgs’ Café — Sandy Point Marina. Tel: 242-9426 or 341-
9084. Local cuisine served daily from 7 AM.
Last Chance Bar & Grill Club — Bottle Creek. Tel: 232-
4141. Waterfront dining. American and Caribbean dishes. Open
10:30 AM for breakfast and lunch; dinner by reservation.
Pappa Grunt’s Seafood Restaurant — Whitby Plaza.
Tel/fax: 946-7301. Native & American cuisine daily.
Pelican Beach Hotel — Tel: 946-7112. Well known for native
conch, lobster, grouper and snapper dishes.
Silver Palm Restaurant — Whitby. Tel: 946-7113/244-4186.
Local seafood and international cuisine. Home-baked breads
and desserts. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Screened patio.
Super D Café — At airport. Tel: 946-7258. Local dishes.
dining out – south caicos
Eastern Inn Restaurant — Stamers Street. Tel: 946-3301.
Ocean & Beach Resort — Cockburn Harbour. Tel: 946 3219.
Native cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Pond View Restaurant — Tel: 946-3276. Native cuisine.
dining out – middle caicos
Daniel’s Restaurant — Conch Bar. Tel: 245-2298/232-6132.
Local seafood, homemade breads. Open Tuesday to Sunday. Call
ahead for groups and dinner reservations.
dining out – grand turk
Bird Cage Restaurant — Osprey Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-1453.
Full bar & restaurant. Lunch and dinner daily.
Guanahani — Bohio Resort. Tel: 946-2135. Gourmet menu of
French, Italian and Asian influence with a Caribbean twist. Open
daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The Inn Restaurant & Bar — Grand Turk Inn. Tel: 431-0466.
A taste of Asian fusions. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Closed on Tuesday.
Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville — Grand Turk Cruise Center.
High energy bar and restaurant. Swim-up pool bar and signature
menu of grilled favorites.
Sand Bar Restaurant — Manta House Beach. Tel: 946-1111.
Quinessential beach bar serving local seafood specialties. Open
for lunch and dinner, Sunday to Friday.
Secret Garden — Salt Raker Inn. Tel: 946-2260. Local &
American dishes in a garden courtyard. English breakfast.
Weekly BBQ and sing-alongs.
dining out –salt cay
Coral Reef Bar & Grill — Tel: 232-1009. Breakfast, lunch and
dinner daily on the beach. Full service bar.
Pat’s Place — Island-style garden restaurant in historic district.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Porter’s Island Thyme — Tel: 242-0325. Gourmet island
dining in open air dining room. Full bar. ❁
Harbour Club Villas
Turtle Tail Drive, Providenciales
Six one-bedroom villas.
Dive operators at our dock
Bonefishing in the lake.
Fabulous beaches nearby.
Ideal for couples or groups.
Trip Advisor
Travellers’ Choice
Awards Winner
E: harbourclub@tciway.tc
T: 1 649 941 5748
See our website
for details
www.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.com
PHONE:
2 4 1 . 3 2 9 7
2 4 4 . 9 0 9 0
3 4 4 . 9 4 0 3
2 4 4 . 6 1 9 1
SOUTH DOCK
ROAD, PROVO
Times of the Islands Spring 2015 93

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