POV, NAPA VALLEY ~ 2007 - Robert Sinskey Vineyards

POV, NAPA VALLEY ~ 2007

Well, you’re right, I’m left,
and she’s gone!
Wine Wars in the New World...
Rob Sinskey
Why are some people threatened by the convictions of others? Almost every day,
the media exposes us to extremist spawned hostilities in far off lands. The nature of
the “us versus them, all or nothing” attitude foments a type of intolerance that I find
difficult to comprehend. Though we are fortunate to live in a country that allows healthy
debate, we are not immune to the wrath of the extremist.
Though some people, particularly the French, might consider wine a religious
experience worth fighting for, in this case I am not alluding to religious intolerance, but
rather why some people are threatened by the way other people farm or make wine. Is
it worth the energy to denigrate others in order to make oneself feel superior or is the
real threat financial in nature?
Recently, a winemaker created a blog titled “Biodynamics is a Hoax.” Predictably,
its purpose is to attack or mock the rituals of Biodynamic farmers. I have to say, we
might make easy targets, but do we deserve vitriol from a fellow winemaker who
claims to be a sustainable farmer? What does he have to gain by putting others down?
The wine industry is at a tipping point. It does not know how to define, or
redefine, itself. Many believe that fine wine should be artisanal; however, many
New World wines abandoned authenticity in favor of technological proficiency.
As the technician replaced the artisan, more wines achieved a level of competency
that emulated highly rated wines. Initially, these wines enjoyed success, but now
these “manufactured for market” wines are struggling to differentiate themselves, no
longer unique enough to command a price premium. If technology can assist a wine in
emulating the best of the recent past, what differentiates modern wine?
Not too long ago, place, conditions, and a bit of luck determined wine quality.
Some places, by the nature of climate, soil as well as favorable environmental conditions
during the fermentation process, consistently produced expressive and elegant wines.
These site-specific wines came to define quality. A good wine was pure, it was right
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We know we have the ability to replicate
the style of wine a critic will respond to,
but the question is how do you make a
wine that is true and authentic?
and it had a sense of place. In a nutshell, a good
wine was authentic.
Then came the competition with a
technological toolbox of herbicides, pesticides,
fertilizers, spinning cones, micro-oxygenation
units, enzymes, color additives and on and on.
Suddenly place mattered less and more mattered
more... along with a high score.
Now we have come full circle. We know we
have the ability to replicate the style of wine a
critic will respond to, but the question is how
do you make a wine that is true and authentic?
As winemakers define the future, they are
becoming Balkanized into hierarchical tribes,
complete with bickering sub-factions. There is
a growing perception, and for some a growing
fear, that this hierarchy will become established
in the mind of the consumer, leaving some to slug
it out on the discount battlefield. The tribes, as
currently perceived in ascending order, are:
• Conventional
• Sustainable (with various sub-factions including
Napa Green/Fish Friendly Farming)
• Organic (with its sub-faction of “Natural”)
• Biodynamic
If you are in one camp and another is
capturing the public’s imagination, it is in your
best competitive interest to belittle those
outside your tribe and confuse the consuming
public. Conventional farmers claim that organic is
elitist and their product is just as good, yet
cheaper. Sustainable farmers claim they are

We wonder which is whackier — applying herbicides pesticides, salt based
fertilizers and synthesized chemical products on grapes ... or working with
nature while applying a little horn manure on the land?
Winemaking Tribes and Sub-Factions
Biodynamic
Organic
“Natural” sub-faction
Sustainable
Napa Green/Fish Friendly Farming sub-faction
Conventional
farming organically but they don’t
want to do the paperwork or pay the
membership fees and besides, they say,
organic certification has been diluted to
where it does not mean anything anyway.
Some organic farmers claim Biodynamic
farmers are engaged in a cult, performing
whacky rituals. And Biodynamic farmers...
we wonder which is whackier, applying
herbicides, pesticides, salt based fertilizers
and any number of synthesized chemical
products on grapes, replete with residue,
or working with nature while applying a
little horn manure on the land?
I must admit that this diatribe is a
little self serving... and perhaps I am
perpetuating the feud. However, when
people ask if Organic or Biodynamic
methods make better wine, I have to say
they both help, but having a distinct Point
of View creates even better or, at least,
more unique wines.

Tasting Notes
eric sothern
The color is a high-gloss, deep,
ruby-tinged purple, nearly opaque
at its core. Dense and intense aromas
escape the glass, and elicit
an immediate Pavlovian response
with suggestions of ripe plums
and blueberries. But oh, there is
so much more: a blast of wild fennel,
a dash of vanilla, a touch of
violet! The aromas find substance
with a sip, resplendent on the luxurious,
high thread count texture woven
by dense, ripe tannins. Impressive
structure underpins the flavors, inviting
culinary suitors and hinting of the
possibilities of a long-term relationship,
at least until the end of dinner.
Shockingly delicious. Impossible to
stop at one glass.
POV, NAPA VALLEY ~ 2007 | 5

Winegrowing Notes
Rob Sinskey
You can’t accomplish much without a point of view. At RSV, we pursue wine
as the craft we believe it was meant to be. From the beginning, we found
our own unique - some would say contrarian - way to do things. We learned
early that if we chased wine scores, we’d become blind to the unique
character of our own vineyards. Instead, we developed a few mantras:
• Follow nature and craft wines that are true to place.
• Learn over time and plant varieties, clones or selections
that maximize the natural potential of the place.
• Make wine with techniques that respect the purity and
quality of the fruit without overwhelming it.
• Wine shouldn’t hurt! It should be elegant and delicious
and make a fine dining companion.
Almost 30 years ago, RSV wagered that the cool, maritime climate of the
Carneros would allow Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc) to thrive, with slow, gentle ripening, creating balanced,
expressive fruit. It really was not a great leap of faith as, viticulturally
speaking, the Carneros has similarities with Pomerol and St. Emilion in that
they both share clay based soils and a similar annual heat summation.
POV chronicles the interaction of site, variety and vintner that occurs every
vintage on RSV’s certified organic and Biodynamic Carneros vineyards,
illustrating the concept of interrelationships as each variety complements
the other, making for a wine that transcends its individual components.
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Born of necessity...
The ritual of making an authentic Bolognese is one I love.
Especially since labor’s reward is a warm, rustic and comforting
meal. There are hundreds, perhaps thousands, of ways to make
Bolognese. Ask any passionate Italian cook and they are sure to
give up a recipe of their own. Like many long-simmered dishes, it
was born of necessity to make not very much into a lot more.
You’d hardly think that something this delicious was rooted in
poverty. The juices of this sauce are smooth and silky, kissed
with just enough acid from the tomato and wine to balance the
rich, tender chunks of meat.
This play of acid and richness make a lively partner for the bright
plum and berry fruit of POV. The moderate tannins and balanced
acidity of this youthful fruit-forward blend, cut through the rich
sauce, allowing you to take another bite and another sip until
your plate, and glass, are empty.
I like to serve this sauce with Canule pasta. The long twisted
strands keep the sauce in place. If you can’t find Canule, make
the dish more traditional with Fettucine. Take time out to make
this sauce on a weekend or a stolen afternoon. Then sit with
your family and friends and enjoy with a glass of POV.
Until the next wine…
— Maria

Bolognese Authentic Style
Nothing beats the flavor of this slowly simmered sauce. Its starts with the “holy trinity” of
vegetables - carrot, celery and onion - that are finely chopped and sauteed until tender to
make a soffritto. The soffritto is the classic flavoring base for many Italian sauces. Plan on
using about 3 pounds of bone-in cuts and 3/4 pound of boneless meat. The ratio of beef,
veal and pork is up to you. Make up to 3 days in advance. This sauce freezes exceptionally
well and can be made 3 months in advance and stored, tightly sealed, in the freezer.
— Serves 4 to 6
3/4 pound beef stew meat
1 1/2 pounds veal shank
1 1/2 pounds pork spare ribs
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 cup finely chopped carrot
1/4 cup finely chopped celery
1/2 cup finely diced pancetta
1/4 cup tomato paste
1 cup water or chicken stock
1 cup white wine
1 cup whole milk
1 small bay leaf
1 - 4 inch strip orange zest
1 pound Canule Pasta or Fettucine
1/4 cup finely chopped flat leaf parsley
Grated Parmesan, optional
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1. Season the meat on both sides with salt
and pepper.
2. Heat a large Dutch oven or stockpot over
medium high heat. Add the oil and then brown
the meat on both sides for 4 to 5 minutes per
side. Remove the meat to a plate.
3. Add the pancetta to the pan and sauté for 3
minutes. Add the onion, carrot and celery to the
pan and saute until golden and tender to make
the soffritto. Add the tomato paste and sauté
for 1 minute until bubbling. Add the wine and
simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the water or
stock, milk and bay leaf and orange zest. Do
not be concerned if the milk looks curdled. It
will cook into a silky sauce.
4. Add the meat back to the pan and bring
the sauce to a boil. Reduce the heat to low.
Cover the pot and slow cook for 1 1/2 hours.
Occasionally give the sauce a stir and make
sure the pan isn’t drying out. Add water 1/2
cup at a time if the liquid looks low.
5. After 1 1/2 hours, remove the meat with
a slotted spoon from the sauce. Cool enough
to handle. Pick the meat off the bones and
remove fat, cartilage and anything else that you
wouldn’t want to eat. Put the picked meat on
a plate and break the large chunks up into 1/2
inch pieces. Add the meat back to the sauce
and discard the bones and gristle.
6. Add 1/2 cup water to the pot and bring
the sauce to a boil. Reduce the heat to low
and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir occasionally.
Cover and keep warm while you cook the pasta.
7. Cook the pasta according to the package
instructions. Drain and reserve 1 cup of pasta
cooking water. Add the pasta to the sauce and
toss. If the sauce thickens, thin with a little of
the reserved pasta water. Transfer to a serving
dish. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Top with
grated Parmesan if desired.

POV, NAPA VALLEY ~ 2007
One Wine ~ 3 Labels
The labels on POV were created using
Rob Sinskey’s original photography of wine
and agriculture. Each new vintage of POV
will be adorned with three new images.
Winemaker: Jeff Virnig
Recipes: Maria Helm Sinskey
Photos and Text: Rob Sinskey
Tasting Notes: Eric Sothern
Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum
Editing: RSV Group Effort
R o b e r t S i n s k e y V i N E Y A R d s
N a p a , C a l i f o r n i a
Fine Wines from Organic Vines
6320 Silverado Trail Napa, CA 94558 ~ tel 707.944.9090 or 800.869.2030
www.RobertSinskey.com
Printed on100% recycled paper using soy based ink