FORD CAPRI

Guide to the 

FORD 

CAPRI 

100 

pages of 

pure Capri 

celebration 

All you need to know about 

RESTORING, BUYING 

& ENJOYING Britain’s 

favourite coupé 

Inside… 

Capri history explained 

MkI, II and III head to head 

Buying guides: MkI and MkIII 

Service guide: Fettling a Pinto engine 

Living with: Enjoying a MkII every day 

£6.99 

BUYING GUIDES 

ROAD TESTS 

RESTO TIPS

Group Test 

Capri MkIII 280 

EnginE 2792cc/V6/oHC 

PowEr 160bhp@5700rpm 

TorquE 162lb ft@4200rpm 

gEarbox 5-speed manual 

ToP sPEEd 127mph 

0-60mPh 7.9sec 

mPg 21 

LEngTh 171.3in (4351mm) 

widTh 67.0in (1702mm) 

wEighT 2620lb (1189.5kg) 

LaunCh PriCE £11,999 

now £2000-£12000 

Come 

on then! 

If you think you’re hard enough 

The Ford Capri is a Great British icon – to decide 

which version is best, PC puts MkI, MkII, and MkIII 

through challenges that match the spirit of the car 

14 

66 FORD JAxxxxY CAPRI GUIDE 2014 2015 // PRACTICAL // PRACTICAL CLASSICS CLASSICS 

www.practicalclassics.co.uk

Capri 3000GT 

XLR 

EnginE 2994cc/V6/oHC 



gEarbox 4-speed manual 


0-60mPh 10sec 

mPg 22 

LEngTh 167in (4232mm) 

widTh 64in (1626mm) 

wEighT 2370lb (1075kg) 

LaunCh PriCE £1372 

now £2500-£12,500 

Capri MkII Ghia 

Automatic 

EnginE 2994cc/V6/oHV 



gEarbox 3-speed Ford C3 

auto/4-speed manual 


0-60mPh 10.5sec (auto) 

9sec (manual) 

mPg 18 (auto) 22 (manual) 

LEngTh 168.8in (4288mm) 

widTh 66.9in (1698mm) 

wEighT 2580lb (1170kg) 

LaunCh PriCE £2609 

now £2000-£12,000 

Photos Mark Fagelson 

Essex. Metaphorically and literally it’s 

Ford Capri country: tough, good for 

pulling birds and handsome from certain 

angles. And, of course, UK-market 

Capris were built there. For most Ford fans, all the 

range-topping MkI, II and III Capris are special cars 

and reside in the best segment of all – the 

big-engined coupé. But each of the Mks also has 

its diehard fans – a MkI owner will insist in the 

strongest possible terms that his car is the purest 

of the breed, as will the owner of a MkII or MkIII 

Capri. That’s why we felt we had to put each car 

through the sort of tests that really matter 

to any aspiring Capri owner. 

First, we took each variant to Brands Hatch to 

see which could nail the fastest lap. We checked 

how much fuel each car burned under stress then 

took a casual blast past the pillars of Essex – 

Barking, Basildon and Billericay. We parked up in 

Pitsea and counted every head turn each got with 

stafers Gervais Seymour, Neil Campbell and 

Matt Jones in arm-out-of-the-window pose mode. 

Finally, we headed to Tesco to see how much 

Stella we could fit in the boot. The tests 

cemented utterly non-negotiable opinions on 

what we thought was the best Capri. Here lies 

each stafer’s attempt to shamelessly flog you 

the car you always promised yourself. 

➽ 

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PRACTICAL CLASSICS // FORD CAPRI GUIDE 2015 

15

CI5 Shootout 

The 

Profession 

Anarchy, terrorism, huge 

collars and smirks. To help 

combat it all we’ve assembled 

six special cars for a final 

showdown. Okay, sunshine? 

WORDS ANDREW ROBERTS INTERVIEWS 

DANNY HOPKINS PHOTOS MATT HOWELL 

F 

ifty minutes of airtime on the 

evening of December 30, 

1977, was all it took. The first 

episode of The Professionals 

redefined notions of what a British cop 

show could be. It was produced by Brian 

Clemens, the man behind The Avengers. 

Every script contained the words ‘malt 

Scotch’ and ‘sunshine’, and every edition 

saw William Bodie (Lewis Collins) and 

Ray Doyle (Martin Shaw), agents with 

C15 – Central Intelligence 5 – performing 

the finest handbrake turns and rearview 

mirror smirking in the history of ITV. 

Today we’ve drifted to a halt in the 

grounds of Harefield Grove Farm, CI5’s 

HQ in series one, and reassembled the 

six principal cars in The Professionals’ 

motor pool. The show used a variety of 

vehicles, including Vauxhall Carltons, 

Datsun 180B Bluebirds and a Suzuki 

SJ40. But with the iconic CI5 fleet, a 

single, simple question remains: which 

is the ultimate Professionals car? 

➽ 

24 

FORD CAPRI GUIDE 2015 // PRACTICAL CLASSICS 


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Buying 

Guide 

SUNROOF 

If the car you’re 

viewing has a sunroof, 

inspect the seals 

thoroughly. Water ingress 

will quickly make a mess 

of the interior, if 

left unchecked. 

1978-1986 

Ford 

SILLS 

Many Capris 

were ‘treated’ to 

bodged sill repairs 

back in the day, so 

examine them 

carefully. 

Capri MkIII 

One of the all-time cult cars, Ford’s MkIII 

Capri ofers Seventies glamour and 

performance galore for all budgets 

I 

f you were asked which car was 

advertised as ‘the diference between 

driving and just motoring’ when it 

debuted in March 1978 you’d probably 

be stuck. But if you were asked which car 

was badged as ‘the car you always promised 

yourself’, you’d probably not have to think 

too hard. Yet both slogans belonged to the 

same car, albeit the famous one to the MkI 

Capri of 1969 and the not so famous one to 

the MkIII, launched in 1978. 

In between the two came the MkII, which 

was actually little diferent from the MkIII 

we’re looking at here, as the development of 

the car took less than a year to complete. 

Its roots lay in a concept shown at the 

1976 Geneva motor show called the 

Modular Aerodynamic, which looked like a 

cross between a MkII Capri and a Vauxhall 

Droop Snoot. The following April a 

development programme began using the 

name Carla and in March 1978 the outcome 

was unveiled at the Geneva show – 

behold, the MkIII Capri. 

From the outset there was no shortage of 

engine choices, with units ranging from a 

weedy (57bhp) 1298cc four-pot to a much 

more tasty 2994cc V6 pushing out more 

than double that. In between there were 1.6 

and 2-litre engines. The bodyshell was much 

like the MkII’s, the main diferences being 

four headlamps instead of two, along with 

revised bumpers, spoilers and front grille. 

Top of the range was the 3.0 X-pack. 

Within just two years of the car’s launch, 

special edition fever took a hold with the 

1600L-based GT4 being introduced and in 

July 1981 the Calypso and Cameo derivatives 

arrived in the showrooms. But the car that 

overshadowed these models was the 2.8i, 

which ousted the 3.0 models. Developed by 

Ford’s Special Vehicle Operations, it can be 

picked up for as little as £2000 and is now a 

fantastic value performance car. 

Summer 1982 saw another limited edition 

in the shape of the Cabaret, but when the 

Tickford Capri was shown at the October 

1982 NEC Motor Show all the other Capris 

paled into insignificance. Here was a Capri 

with a turbocharged 2.8-litre engine that 

‘From the outset 

there was no 

shortage of 

engine choices’ 

64 



WINGS 

Check the front 

wings for filler 

around the headlamps 

and also closely inspect 

the edge that meets 

up with the 

front doors. 

Mint £6000-£12,000 Average £2500-£5000 Rough £500-£1500 

VALANCE 

Road rash from 

stone chips can make 

a mess of the front 

valance and spoli the 

clean lines. Get on your 

hands and knees to 

check for this! 

rot, it just makes it easier to fix. Or at 

least it would if panels were easy 

to come by, but in many cases 

they’re not. 

But rust isn’t the only enemy 

of the Capri. Accident damage 

is a strong possibility, with the 

newest Capri now 28 years old 

and probably a string of owners 

listed on the V5. The 3-litre cars were 

particularly tail-happy but front end damage 

is the most common result of an accident 

you’ll have to contend with. Open the bonnet 

to inspect the chassis rails to make sure 

they’re undamaged. 

The most likely area to find rust lurking is 

the front wings, so check for filler around the 

headlamps and along the edge that meets 

the front doors. Wings are welded on and 

original ones are very hard to track down – 

if you can find one you’ll pay up to £300. 

Repro wings are available for £100 each, 

better-fitting ones costing around £175. 

McPherson strut Fords are renowned for 

rot around the strut top mountings, although 

the MkIII Capri isn’t as badly aficted by this 

as earlier cars. But it’s worth checking 

anyway and while you’re at it take a look at 

the inner wings, inside edges of the bonnet 

and the area around the grille. The V6 cars 

have a triangular strengthening plate on the 

underside of the inner wing, but they rot so 

generated a storming 205bhp, allowing 

it to do a genuine 140mph. Disc brakes all 

round were part of the package, along with 

a limited-slip dif and revised rear axle 

location to help put the power down – but it 

didn’t go on sale for another year. 

Within a few months (in January 1983) a 

five-speed gearbox was made standard on 

the 2.8i and soon after on 2-litre cars as 

well. By the end of 1984 the only Capris on 

ofer were the Laser (in 1600 form), 2.8i 

Special (leather trim panels, a limited-slip 

dif and RS spoked alloy wheels) and 

the Tickford Capri. 

The last Capri was built on December 19, 

1986. Like all of the final 1038 Capris it was 

a Brooklands 280, which meant it had 

leather trim, metallic green paintwork and 

15-inch spoked alloy wheels. 

Why you want one 

With the benefit of 

hindsight it’s easy to be a bit 

superior about the Capri 

MkIII. Countless gibes about 

flufy dice, Carlos Fandango 

body kits and references to 

the Capri being something 

of a Basildon Bullet have 

been levelled at the pretty 

coupé over the years but 

history has become much 

fairer over the intervening 

decades. As a serious and 

ultimately successful 

attempt to combine the 

disciplines of sports car 

and family transport, the 

MkIII deserves credit. 

Bodywork 

The Capri’s construction is incredibly simple, 

almost to the point of being crude in some 

areas. But that doesn’t stop it being prone to 

➽ 


PRACTICAL CLASSICS // FORD CAPRI GUIDE 2015 65

Reader’s Restoration 

As delivered in August 2013. 

Beneath the new pattern wings 

Chris found rust. Lots of rust. 

This wasn’t going to be easy… 

AFTER 

BEFORE 

Against 

the odds 

WORDS NEIL CAMPBELL PHOTOS MATT HOWELL 

Acute arthritis and a 

garage barely wider 

than his 1974 Ford 

Capri GT wouldn’t 

stop Chris Wagstaff 

from completing his 

restoration dream. 

Fortuna Audeces Juvat. It’s not 

often that we open a feature with 

a Latin proverb, but the 

translation ‘fortune favours the 

brave’ seemed a fitting one, especially 

when talking about restorer Chris 

Wagstaf. When he was diagnosed with 

chronic arthritis of the spine, aged just 29, 

he decided to start looking for a project. 

‘I figured that if I didn’t start soon I may 

become too ill to complete my dream of 

restoring a classic, so I asked Jasmin, my 

partner, if she thought it was a good idea,’ 

he says. She didn’t say no thanks to being 

asleep at the time, so Chris began his 

search for the perfect classic car project 

to occupy him. 

He found this Capri 2000 GT in August 

2013. ‘It was on the internet for 99p ‘Buy It 

Now’ but the description said he wouldn’t 

let it go for less than ££££s, so I emailed 

asking what he wanted.’ Chris didn’t 

receive a reply, so he ofered £1000. 

He heard nothing back. ‘I thought ‘this is 

ridiculous’ so emailed again ofering 

£1650.’ This, combined with the assurance 

of instant payment and a next day 

collection, was enough for the reluctant 

vendor to phone him back. 

‘He wasn’t interested in the car at all. ➽ 

70 



The restorer 

Chris Wagstaf, 32, is a works foreman for a 

sealed unit window manufacturing 

company. He started working on 

cars young, helping his uncle 

Jim. Chris owned a string of 

cars before he was old 

enough to drive. After school 

he worked in garages then 

became an Vauxhall dealer 

apprentice. He’s owned around 

45 cars, mainly projects, but this 

is his first proper restoration. 

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Service Guide 

How to service your 

Ford Capri (Pinto) 

Get your 1.6 or 2.0 overhead cam Capri performing as it should 

TECH 

TIP 

The Pinto camshaft oil 

spray bar can become 

blocked. Remove the valve 

cover and rotor arm, crank 

the engine and look for a 

steady flow of oil along 

the camshaft. 

WORDS & PHOTOS KIM HENSON 

YOU WILL NEED… 

EQUIPMENT Trolley jack, axle stands, 

oil pan, metric spanners and socket set, 

screwdrivers, long steel bar, test lamp or 

multimeter, oil can. 

TIME 

(HRS) 

3 

MONEY 

DIFFICULTY RATING 

60 

(£)FROM 

THANKS TO Mark Aspden for enthusiastic 

help and the use of his 2-litre Capri MkIII. 

From its introduction in 1969, the Ford 

Capri appealed to buyers thanks to 

its good looks and sporting character. 

Ford cleverly built the car using its existing 

range of proven engines, drivetrains and 

running gear. In addition to providing 

economies of scale in production, this made 

the newcomer as straightforward to service 

and repair as a Cortina or Escort. 

This remains the case today, meaning 

that the Capri is as enjoyable to look after 

as it is to drive. Early four-cylinder Capris for 

the UK market were powered by the 

Crossflow Kent engine. But as the range 

developed, the overhead camshaft Pinto 

unit gained favour. This guide concentrates 

on the Pinto-powered cars produced during 

the Seventies and Eighties. 

All the spares required for maintenance 

and repair are readily available. The majority 

of key components can still be obtained 

locally from mainstream motor factors – and 

marque specialists can provide everything 

else. Track down a handbook or workshop 

manual for specific settings and capacities 

relating to your model. 

This also applies to… 

The steps that don’t relate to the engine 

generally apply to Kent and V6 Capris. 

The Pinto engine powered contemporary 

Cortinas, Transits and some Escorts. 

There are many running-gear similarities 

with the Cortina and Escort, too. 

Servicing intervals 

Every 3000 miles or 

annually. Variations 

that relate to specific 

components are 

identified in the steps. 

KIM HENSON TECHNICAL WRITER 

96 



Capri Pinto 

1 

Steering and suspension 

Scrutinise the Macpherson strut tops and 

inner wing structures from above and below. 

Check the shock absorbers for leaks and bounciness 

and the springs for deterioration or damage. 

Check bushes and ball-joints for play/deterioration. 

2 

Wheel bearings 

Spin the front wheels and feel for roughness, 

indicating bearing wear. Rock the wheels to check 

for play in the bearings – it should be just detectable. 

Adjust the bearings if it’s excessive. Prise of the dust 

cap and lubricate with wheel bearing grease. 

3 

Brake hydraulics 

Examine the master cylinder, fixed pipework 

and flexi-hoses for leaks, damage or deterioration. 

Make sure the servo’s working and that its vacuum 

hose is sound. Top up the brake fluid if necessary. 

Renew the fluid every two years or 24,000 miles. 

TECH 

TIP 

Look closely for 

corrosion around 

all suspension 

mounts. 

4 

Front brakes 

Inspect with the front wheels removed. 

Check the discs for warping, excessive grooving and 

corrosion, and the pads for wear. Investigate the 

cause of uneven wear. Renew ailing components in 

axle sets. Ensure the calipers are securely attached. 

5 

Rear suspension 

Examine the leaf springs for cracks, corrosion 

and sagging. Use a long bar to check for excessive 

play in the spring eye bushes. Inspect the rear shock 

absorbers for leaks and bounciness. Check the 

anti-roll bar and its bushes for deterioration. 

6 

Rear brakes 

Remove the brake drum (tap it against the 

hub with a copper mallet to free it of, if necessary). 

Peel back the cylinder dust seals to check for leaks 

or seized pistons. Check the shoes for wear and the 

drums for scoring. Investigate uneven wear. 

TECH 

TIP 

Early cars have 

handbrake adjusters 

on both the primary 

and transverse 

cables. 

7 Handbrake 

Sparingly apply brake lubricant or copper 

grease to the self-adjuster mechanism. 

Lubricate handbrake linkages with engine oil. 

Apply handbrake to operate the self-adjusters. 

Adjust cable so the brake is fully on after four clicks. 

8 

Gearbox oil 

Manual gearbox: top up to the base of the 

filler aperture with SAE 80 EP; drain and refill every 

24,000 miles if a drain plug is fitted. Capacities vary 

between models. Automatic gearbox: check fluid 

level (consult handbook); top up with ATF. 

Don’t forget 

9 

Steering rack 

and column 

Rock the wheel and check for play in the rack and 

track-rod ends. Inspect the track-rod and rack 

gaiters. Check the steering column supports and 

couplings for excessive movement. 

10 

Driveline mountings 

Assess the state of the engine and 

gearbox mounts, especially if they are 

oil-soaked (in which case, cure the leaks!). 

Renew any that are soft or split. 

11 

Fuel system 

Examine the tank, pipework and 

connectors for corrosion, insecurity and leaks. 

12 

Other aspects 

Lubricate all bodywork hinges and 

catches using engine oil or aerosol grease. 

Wipe of excess lubricant. Check the tracking. 

➽ 


PRACTICAL CLASSICS // FORD CAPRI GUIDE 2015 97

FORD CAPRI

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