QUILTsocial | Issue 01 Fall 2014 Premiere Issue


Premiere issue of the FREE magazine for quilters! Follow our blog at www.QUILTsocial.com for daily tips, techniques, and patterns.



Diagram 2




…eat, sleep, quilt, repeat

Premiere Issue!




fall 2014


Perfect stitch quality.

*On average versus creative sensation model. Average

speed varies depending on hoop and type of embroidery.

PFAFF® exclusive

Perfect embroidery on a wide variety of

fabrics, even with novelty thread.

PFAFF ® exclusive ActivStitch technology

Perfect embroidery on a wide variety

of fabrics, even with novelty thread.

The Original IDT System

Absolutely even fabric feed from both

the top and the bottom.

The Original IDT System

Absolutely even fabric feed from

both the top and the bottom.

© 2013 KSIN Luxembourg II.S.ar.l. All rights reserved. All statements valid at time of printing. Printed on environmentally friendly paper. Patents protecting this product are listed on a label positioned underneath the Sewing Machine.


Realize your potential

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©2013 KSIN Luxembourg II.S.ar.l. All rights reserved. PFAFF, PERFECTION STARTS HERE, IDT,

expression line

www.husqvarnaviking.com/ca/en www.pfaff.com/ca/en

Available © 2014 at KSIN participating Luxembourg II.S.ar.l. All rights reserved. All statements valid at time of printing. PFAFF, PERFECTION STARTS HERE, IDT (image), EXPRESSION and QUILT EXPRESSION are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l.




SENSOR SYSTEM are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. HUSQVARNA and the ”H” Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB. All trademarks are used under license by VSM Group AB.

It is with great enthusiasm that we launch the first edition of QUILTsocial eMagazine.



When does an obsession become therapy?

It’s been said before, quilting was born

centuries ago out of sheer necessity, and

has become an obsessive hobby no one

wants to be cured of. For those of us

who quilt with every thread of our being,

quilting is what keeps us grounded,

ultimately soothed by the hum of the

sewing machine. So maybe we should

call it ‘therapy’ instead of - obsession.

If you’re like me, being obsessed

with quilting pushes us to further our

knowledge of it, ever-searching for

practical techniques, and learning

all about the best tools that help us

accomplish our favorite quilting projects

with little frustration.

And so QUILTsocial blog was created as

a daily dose of quilting.

QUILTsocial focuses on the very details

of quilting, the essential tools, the

sewing process, quilting techniques and

the finishing touches. It talks about the

tools of the trade, like unboxing sewing

machines and how they differ from one

to the next. I mean, how many of us

have actually read the manual in its entirety

before plugging it in? Why are there so

many sewing feet, and should we use

them all? Why are there so many rulers?

How many scissors and cutters do we

really need and why the big variety?

I’m just scratching the surface here, but

the same questions can be applied to

thread, stabilizers, and what I obsess

the most over…fabric! I get this floating

sensation when I come across awesome

fabric, then my head spins with ideas.

These are serious symptoms only a

sewing machine can cure.

This is a place where quilting knowledge

is readily available to all quilters and

hopefully inspire more to pick up the

therapy of quilting.

Consider QUILTsocial eZine as a book of

projects that reflect the topics covered in

the last three months including new ones!

Join me on this thrilling journey of

discovery across our quilting universe.





fall 2014





… for those who gather with thread and fabric to

‘eat, sleep, quilt, repeat’.


Carla A. Canonico



John De Fusco



John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico, Alessia De Fusco


Jennifer Houlden

Quilts by Jen

jennifer @ quiltsbyjen.ca


Nancy Devine

Heaven is Hand Made



Christine Baker





Elaine Theriault



Carla A. Canonico


Derek Goode


WEBSITE / BLOG : www.QUILTsocial.com

Like us on Facebook : QUILTsocial

Follow us on Twitter : @QUILTsocial


QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle

Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at


A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available for

purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your

local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription.


If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please

email john@QUILTsocial.com.


Designers and other contributors who would like to be considered

for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com with a

brief description of your work and your proposed project for the


Introducing! …


©2014 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue #1.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written

permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private,

non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by

their respective creators or owners.


daily blog


weekly bulletin


monthly newsletter


quarterly magazine


Facebook page


Pinterest page


ALL of the above!


4 ●

.com fall 2014



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Elaine’s Quilting Tech Tips!

Advertiser Index

60 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine

58 Business Directory

57 CreativFestival

11 Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby Royale

13 Inspira STUDIO by ClosetMaid

39 Oliso smartiron

2 Pfaff expression

59 Professional Appraisal Services

55 Ruby Pearl Quilts

55 Sew Fancy

55 The Quilt Store

49 WonderFil Specialty Threads

c o n t e n t s

Cheryl Stranges

Donna Housley

Lucy Garvin

Nancy Devine

Elaine Theriault

Nancy Devine

Jennifer Houlden

Christine Baker









The Vintage Postcard Handbag

Drunkard's Path...The Easy Way Quilt

We've Got You Covered!

Happy Hall-Whoo-Ween Door Quilt

Crazy about Zippered Pouches

The Doctor Travels from T-shirt to Quilted Art

On-the-Go Place-mat

The Back Porch Pillow




fall 2014






Husqvarna Viking® provided the following

materials to make the sample:

Designer Diamond deluxe sewing machine

HUSKYLOCK s25 serger

6D Embroidery Software with 6D Sketch & 6D

Stitch Creator

INSPIRA® Stabilizers

TrueCut cutting tools

Embroidery Design # 270 Vintage Postcard

Robison Anton Threads Sulky Blendable threads

Circular Attachment Tool

Extension Table

Hand dyed 100% Soya Silk thread provided by

Linda Palaisy for embroidered hand stitches


The Vintage Postcard

Handbag focuses on

many techniques that

are so enjoyable to stitch. Make

it in a color palette that gives

you a splash of bright color, a

soft palette or a very bold

one. Explore the many design

elements using the latest and

greatest sewing tools, threads

and stabilizers and of course 6D

Software. These embroideries,

the design placement and the

Crazy Patch Quilting techniques

are a personal choice and a

call to your creativity. z

Cheryl Stranges


6 UILT social


fall 2014

skill level intermediate

finished measurements

9¼" x 14½" [23.5 x 37cm]



Note: The ideal fabrics for this project

include: silk, cotton, linen. Otherwise, any

medium weight fabric will do. Other than

the fat quarters required for the project, this

is a great time to use leftover pieces.

2-3 Fat Quarters printed batik

1 silk Dupioni piece for hand stitch


1 solid cotton for swirl embroidery and

circular attachment

1 cotton tone on tone for texturing

1 piece of fabric solid for machine


1 piece of INSPIRA stabilizer

1 piece of INSPIRA Tear Away for machine


1 piece of INSPIRA Fabric Magic

sewing feet used

embroidery foot

¼" piecing foot with guide

zipper foot

seam allowance guide foot

general sewing foot

topstitching foot

multi-line decorative foot

decorative stitching foot

strap and belt loop foot serger

cutting tools

TrueCut rotary cutter

TrueCut cutting mat

TrueCut rulers

INSPIRA scissors

Circular Attachment

extension/quilting table for circular

attachment use


6D Software (6DStitch Editor Plus and


Embroidery Design Husqvarna Viking #

270 Vintage Postcard

Swirl design created in 6D software e.g.

6D Sketch to create swirl design using

morphing tool


INSPIRA cutwork needles for machine


New INSPIRA microtex needle size 80 or 90


Robison-Anton rayon threads

assortment 40wt

30wt Sulky Blendables Cotton for

stitching decorative stitches and

embroidery hand stitches

30wt Sulky Cotton solid used for piecing

multi-purpose thread assortment

hand dyed 100% Soya Silk thread by

Linda Palaisy for embroidered hand


60wt bobbin thread for machine



80mm x 80mm hoop for single design or

larger hoop if you are embroidering

multiple designs

marking tools

1 8" zipper

covered buttons, approx. 2" in diameter

1 strand of yarn for artistic oval


cutting instructions front & back

Cut all fabric pieces according to the list

below. The following measurements

are approximate and generous and

will be trimmed to size later.

1. upper band 4" x 11" [10 x 28cm] L cut 2

2. machine embroidery A – fonts &

wording 240mm x 150mm hoop size –

cut stabilizer same size

3. machine embroidery B – swirl design

80mmx 80mm hoop size – cut

stabilizer same size

4. machine embroidery C – hand

stitched look 260mm x 200mm

5. INSPIRA Fusible Fleece

6. circular attachment fabric 80mm x

80mm – cut stabilizer same size

7. textured piece 14" x 14" [35.5 x 35.5]

8. Fabric Magic larger oval felted piece

approx. 6" x 6" [15.5 x 15.5cm]

9. lining front and back cut 2 - 14½" x

11½" [37 x 29cm]

10. handbag back piece 14½" x 11½" [37 x


11. handbag front piece after crazy patch

work is completed 14½" x 11½" [37 x


Decorative threads

A special thank you to Betty

Biberdorf for her creative idea

using the INSPIRA® Fabric magic.

Materials used and yarn used for felting.




fall 2014


Creating yarn art felting and embroidery

Stitching using the circular attachment

Multi-line decorative foot

Fabric Magic

It’s important to use

stabilizer behind all of the

decorative and machine

embroidery stitches.

Audition each of the

technique pieces below to

explore the layout, of the

handbag. Determine how

you want to cut the crazy

patch pieces as you go.

felting techniques

1. Draw lines on the front fabric to

mark the placement of the yarn

strips using a marking tool, or be

creative freehand. These lines can

be drawn oval or circular. Place the

yarn on the fabric front.

2. This yarn strand can be machine

felted into position, or it can be

stitched down using a decorative

beading foot 2-3mm and invisible

thread using a small zigzag stitch

or decorative stitch to accommodate

the width of the yarn strand.

Remember have fun.

3. If the artistic oval piece is to be

felted, select rectangular cotton

print fabric, and machine felt yarn

right to the fabric. You’ll have the

opportunity to choose which side

you like the best after it has been

needle felted, front or back of fabric.

Cut the fabric to the shape desired.

In this case it’s oval, however

create any shape desired. Add this

to the front of your handbag after

all of front handbag is completely

assembled. Stitch this into place.

4. Felting fabric for covered buttons

can be done creatively using

assorted threads, wool pieces, or

yarns on the background fabric.

And the fabric used for these techniques

can also be from a great

selection of cotton, silk, linens and

any other natural fabric you can

think of. Remember, it’s easier to

shape it around the covered button

if the fabric is light to medium

weight. See manufacturer’s instructions

for covered buttons.

circular attachment techniques

1. Choose your fabric to be decoratively

stitched using your Circular Attachment.

As with most techniques it’s

advisable to always experiment and

have fun with stitches before going to

the project fabric. Select an assortment

of stitches to explore.

2. The top layer is your fabric, behind is

a tear away stabilizer or stabilizer of

choice. Select a decorative stitch. Determine

how large you would like the

circle by moving the measurement

guide to desired measurement.

3. Place your circular attachment in

place and push the special pin into

the fabric and through the stabilizer.

Place the push pin into the circular

attachment located along the measurement

guide. See manufacturer’s

instructions. Stitch decorative stitches

in circular motion or shape desired

using templates.

4. You may choose to use a portion of

this decorative stitching for the handbag,

or you may use the entire piece.

Cut to desired size. Remove excess


fabric texturing techniques

1. This technique was achieved by

placing Fabric Magic under the cotton

fabric for the front of the handbag –

red fabric in bottom right corner.

2. Cut the Fabric Magic larger than the

cotton fabric choice.

3. Use the multi-line decorative foot on

the sewing machine, select a stitch

and decorative stitch that will show

well on the surface.

4. Use the guidelines on the multi-line

decorative foot, stitch row after row

of decorative stitches. Create a grid

of stitches. Serpentine stitches work

well, zigzag, straight, and a variety of

others. Experiment.

5. When the stitches are complete, use

the burst of steam from a steam iron

and hover over top of your fabric

surface. The Fabric Magic will shrink

as will the cotton fabric with it. This

creates a wonderful textured surface.

Cut this to desired size for your crazy

patch design.


8 ●

.com fall 2014


machine embroidered techniques

Use 6D Embroidery Stitch Editor

Plus program. Draw stitch points

in desired pattern on the screen.

Photos 1 to 6 are a few examples

of the various stitches in the


Stitch Editor Plus A



decorative topstitching techniques

Use the decorative stitching foot and

select a decorative stitch that will best

suit the fabric design and stitch the

seams on the surface. A serpentine

stitch works well in combination with

Sulky Blendable thread.


Once this embroidery is completed, cut

the fabric to desired size for crazy

patch design. If you choose to create

additional embroideries, to make

covered buttons, cut the embroidered

fabric to desired button sizes and use

manufacturer’s instructions to create

these buttons. Or the alternative is

to use cutwork needles in Software

and incorporate this into your steps

to cut the fabric button out right after

embroidery is complete using either

scissors or cutwork needles. Explore.

free style design


Hand stitches in software

stitches that look hand-stitched using

the 6D embroidery sketch

INSPIRA fusible fleece was used under

the fabric and was hooped. For the

sample, a combination of Sulky 30wt

Blendable thread, and 100% Soya

Silk thread was used for this machine


1. Machine embroidery technique using

HUSQVARNA VIKING Design Card #270.

2. Select desired stabilizer and hoop

using appropriate hoop size for the

design card.

3. These embroideries were done using

40wt Robison Anton thread for embroidery


4. Load embroidery design onto the

screen, and embroider the design.

Once the embroidery is completed,

tear away excess stabilizer. Cut the embroidered

fabric design to desired size.

5. Audition this piece with all of the

other pieces to create your exquisite

handbag front. Once all of the pieces

have been auditioned for placement,

stitch them together using crazy patch

technique and a ¼" piecing foot with

guide. Stitch each placement and

press each one lightly on the surface.

spiral built-in design

new size



Covered buttons using felting, decorative topstitch

and machine embroidery techniques

80mm x 80 mm hoop

twirl morphed

Multiple embroideries




fall 2014


Pictures show the

evolution of the

creative process.

Audition pieces of

fabric, decorative

stitches, and sewing

notions to make

your handbag a


crazy patch quilting and piecing

This is an area of quilting that is totally amazing when it comes

to creating artistic pieces.

1. A background fabric or stabilizer, or quilt batting is


2. Start with a piece of embroidered fabric, and in this case it

was the embroidered handstitches.

3. Add piece by piece of embroidered swirls, circular

stitching, textured cotton and of course maximize the

embellishments to your heart’s desire.

4. Stitch one down at a time and flip, stitch another one down

and flip. Attach each fabric to the next fabric.

creative zipper

Use your zipper foot that's designed with a fairly wide opening

on each side, and select a quilting stitch to stitch down each

side of the zipper. Once the decorative stitching is complete,

stitch this zipper on your project anywhere you like as

embellishment using a straight stitch.

Make upper band for front and back in contrasting printed

cotton fabric.

shoulder strap

1. Cut fabric to desired length by 2" [5cm] wide to simply fold

and stitch tubular. Or use your Coverstitch wide.

2. Trim the end of the long strip on an angle. This will make

it easier to insert into the fabric strip into the foot. If you're

using a Coverstitch wide, determine the width for a strap

and belt loop foot and stitch down the strip. This foot

automatically folds the fabric around guides inside, and

makes a wonderful strap.

3. See Serger instructions for Coverstitch wide.

completing the bag

Back piece and batting 14½" x 11½" [37 x 29cm]

Front of handbag completed and crazy patched will also

measure 14½" x 11½" [37 x 29cm].

Shoulder Strap 1" or 2" x desired length

1. Fold upper band in half lengthwise, press and place upper

band on upper front piece right sides together. Stitch in

place. Repeat for the back piece.

2. Right sides together, sew fabric and lining. Fold so that

lining and front are wrong sides together. Repeat for back.

3. Determine location for strap and place each front and back

right sides together and serge using a 4 thread serge all around

except upper band area. Include the strap in the seams.


10 ●

.com fall 2014


4. Turn right side out.

Cheryl Stranges

Product & Event Specialist



The Love of a Lifetime

ve The The of Love a Love Lifetime The of of a Love Lifetime Lifetime of a Li



sewing and embroidery

machine is our heir to the

throne, a true princess. It

makes it easy and rewarding

to create anything your

heart desires!


• Experience more beautiful

embroidery than ever, even with

challenging metallic threads,

thanks to the innovative deLuxe

Stitch System.

• Use the first in the industry

Dimensional Stitches to add

appliqué fabric.

• The largest embroidery area

in its class*, allowing you to stitch

spectacular designs with just one


* Non-turnable; as compared to leading brands in

similar price range.

Great Financing Available

OAC. Ask for details!


© 2014 KSIN Luxembourg II. S.ar.l. All rights reserved. VIKING, DESIGNER RUBY ROYALE and DELUXE are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. HUSQVARNA and the “crowned H-mark” are trademarks of

Husqvarna AB. All trademarks are used under license by VSM Group AB.

© 2014 KSIN Luxembourg II. S.ar.l. All rights reserved. VIKING, DESIGNER RUBY ROYALE and DELUXE are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. HUSQVARNA and the “crowned H-mark” are trademarks of

Husqvarna AB. All trademarks are used under license by VSM Group AB.

© 2014 KSIN Luxembourg II. S.ar.l. All rights reserved. VIKING, DESIGNER RUBY ROYALE and DELUXE are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. HUSQVARNA and the “crowned H-mark” are trademarks of

Husqvarna AB. All trademarks are used under license by VSM Group AB.




sewing DESIGNER and embroidery RUBY Royale


machine is our heir to the

sewing sewing and embroidery and embroidery

throne, a true princess. It

machine machine is our heir is our to the heir to the

makes it easy and rewarding


to create

throne, a true princess.


a true


princess. It It


heart makes it easy and

desires! it easy rewarding and rewardin

to create anything your

to create anything your

heart EXCLUSIVE desires! FEATURES:

heart desires!

EXCLUSIVE • Experience FEATURES: more beautiful



than ever,


even with

• Experience challenging more metallic beautiful threads,

embroidery thanks • Experience to the than innovative ever, NEW!

more even deLuxe

with beautiful

challenging Stitch System.

metallic threads,

embroidery than ever, even with

thanks to the innovative deLuxe

• Use the first the industry

Stitch System. challenging metallic threads,

Dimensional Stitches to add

thanks to the innovative deLuxe

• Use appliqué the first fabric.

in the industry

Dimensional Stitch Stitches System.

to add

• The largest embroidery area

appliqué fabric.

in its • class*, Use the allowing first you in the to stitch industry

• The spectacular largest Dimensional embroidery designs with Stitches just area one to add

in hooping.

its class*, allowing you to stitch

appliqué fabric.

spectacular designs with just one

hooping. • The largest embroidery area

in its class*, allowing you to stitch

spectacular designs with just one


* Non-turnable; as compared to leading brands in

similar price range.

* Non-turnable; as compared to leading brands in

similar price range.



* Non-turnable; as compared to leading brands in

Available at participating Canadian Dealers. © 2013 KSIN Luxembourg II S.a.r.l. All rights reserved. VIKING, DESIGNER DIAMOND ROYALE, DELUXE, similar price SEWING range. ADVISOR, EMBROIDERY ADVISOR an

SENSOR SYSTEM are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. HUSQVARNA and the ”H” Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB. All trademarks are used under license by VSM Grou




at Financing Available Great Financing Available TRY THIS GEM AT YOUR LOCAL RETAILER!

OAC. Ask for details!

UILTsocial .com


TRY THIS GEM www.husqvarnaviking.com/ca/en



Available at participating www.husqvarnaviking.com

Canadian Dealers. © 2013 KSIN Luxembourg II S.a.r.l. All rights reserved. www.husqvarnaviking.com



C. Ask for details!

2013 KSIN SENSOR Luxembourg SYSTEM II S.a.r.l. are trademarks All rights of reserved. KSIN Luxembourg VIKING, II, DESIGNER S.ar.l. HUSQVARNA DIAMOND and ROYALE, the ”H” Crown DELUXE, Device SEWING are trademarks ADVISOR, of Husqvarna EMBROIDERY AB. All trademarks ADVISOR are and used EXCLUSIVE under license by VSM Group AB.




Visit our booth and:

View a display of banners by the

CHA Designers made for Charity Wings

(www.charitywings.org)for their outreach


Spend some time in the “Construction

Zone” where you can construct your

own Banner of Hope.

Banners of Hope

are small fabric banners with

inspirational messages that are

displayed in hospitals, shelters and

charity locations that greet members

of the public in times of challenge.



ed in




Learn how this project can be used in

your store or business to promote local

causes and encourage more

consumers to use fabric in their projects.

booth #1654


Coming to a craft show near you!

VIEW a display of banners by the CHA


ENJOY some time in the “Construction Zone”

where you can construct your own Banner of Hope.

Offered at some of our events.

LEARN how this project can be used in your store,

business, guild or community group to promote

local causes and encourage more consumers to use

fabric in their projects.

For more information on events in

2015 visit


Banners courtesy of Paula Jones, Ana Araujo, Kelly Goulder, Susan Pyrcz Weckesser.







Developed with ClosetMaid®, this system has exclusive features designed for the unique needs of sewers and crafters.

When tools and materials are organized and easy to find, you have more time, space and energy to create!

See the entire INSPIRA STUDIO collection at myinspirastudio.com.


















View product videos and discover what the

INSPIRA STUDIO collection can do for you at


INSPIRA STUDIO is a trademark of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. Trademark used under license by VSM Group AB. ©2014 KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. © ClosetMaid Corporation 2014.


Drunkard’s Path ...the Easy Way

Donna Housley


14 ●

.com fall 2014


skill level beginner

finished measurements

35" x 44" [89 x 1.12m]



circle and background fabrics 1yd [90cm]

x WOF each

inside border 10" [25cm] x WOF

outside border 16" [40cm] x WOF

backing 46" [1.17m] x WOF

binding 15" [40cm] x WOF

Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer Extra 1yd pkg fusible

quilt batting 36" x 46" [90cm x 1.17m]

40 wt rayon thread

Komfort Kut Rotary Cutter 18mm

Quilting Ruler 6" x 24"

Kai Scissors 9.0" (1000) series

Kai Scissors 4.5" (1000) series

Glass head pins

Clover Fabric Folding Pen

True Cut 360° Precision Circle Cutter

505 Temporary Spray Adhesive

Note: The sample was done using a 6"

[15.24cm] diameter circle. It’s encouraged to

play with this technique and make the blocks

whatever size desired. The quilt was made

with 6 red circles on a blue background and

6 blue circles on a red background.


1. Trace a 6" [15.24cm] circle onto the

back of a piece of Soft ‘n Sheer then

place fusible side to the right side of

the circle fabric. Pin in place and sew

directly on the line.

2. Trim seam with pinking shears to ¼"

[6mm]. With a pair of small sharp scissors

make a slit in the Soft ‘n Sheer. Run

Clover’s Fabric Folding Pen over the

stitches. Turn right side out through

the slit and finger press. Repeat 11

more times to get 6 red circles and 6

blue circles.

3. Cut 6 red and 6 blue squares 12"


4. Centre the circle on a square. Using a

medium hot iron fuse the circle into


Note: This is a great opportunity to play

with the decorative stitches on your sewing

machine. A variegated thread and a feather

type stitch. Playing with different weights of

thread is also a great idea, the heavier the

thread the bolder the stitching.

5. Stitch around the circle with half of the

decorative stitch on the circle and half

on the background square.

6. Use a ruler and rotary cutter to cut

each square into 4 pieces.

7. Square up each piece to 5½" [13.97cm]

square cut only the 2 sides of the outer

edges of the square.

8. Arrange the blocks in a design you

are happy with – this may take longer

than the sewing! Once the design is

decided on, carefully sew the blocks

together in rows with a ¼" [6mm]


9. Press the seams in Row 1 (and other

uneven numbered rows) to the left

then Row 2 (and other even numbered

rows) to the right. This will reduce the

bulk where the seams meet. Sew all

rows together.

10. Press all seams and square up finished



Cut 4 strips WOF 2½" [6.35cm] wide for

inside border.

Cut 2 strips to length of quilt and sew

to each side of the block using a

¼" [6mm] seam. Press seam toward


Cut 2 strips to width of quilt and sew to

top and bottom of block. Press seam

toward border.

Cut 4 strips WOF 3½" [8.89cm] wide for

outside border.

Cut 2 strips to length of quilt and using

a ¼" [6mm] seam, sew to each side of

the block. Press seam toward border.

Cut 2 strips to width of quilt and sew to

top and bottom of block. Press seam

toward border.


1. Layer the backing, batting and quilt


2. Secure with temporary spray adhesive

and pin to hold.

3. Quilt as desired.

Note: 40 wt rayon thread was used on top

and bottom and a feather stitch was used

along the seams.


1. Sew the 3" [8cm] binding strips together

to make one strip long enough to

go all around the table topper. Press

seams open.

2. Fold the binding strip in half lengthwise

with wrong sides together. Press.

3. Using a walking foot or even-feed foot,

sew on the binding using a scant ½"

[1.3cm] seam allowance.

4. Fold the binding over to the back and

hand-stitch in place. At each corner,

fold the binding to create a 45° mitred

corner. This can be stitched down or

not, as desired.




fall 2014


Embroidered Tablet and Journal Covers


e’ve Got

You overed!


Tablets and e-readers

are everywhere

these days and they

come in all shapes and

sizes. By following a few

simple instructions, you

can create a pattern for

any device. Glam up the

project by using free motion

embroidery on the front

panel. The richness of the

rayon and the shine of the

metallic combine to create

a stunning custom cover.

Lucy Garvin





fall 2014



skill level intermediate – advanced

finished measurements (closed)

iPad 8" x 10" [20.5 x 25.5cm]

Blackberry Playbook 8" x 5½" [20.5 x


Kobo Wireless 7½" x 5¼" [19 x 13.5cm]

Journal Variation 7" x 5½" [18 x 14cm]



11¾" [30cm] tone-on-tone navy fabric

11¾" [30cm] heavyweight non-woven

fusible interfacing

11¾" [30cm] thin fusible fleece – OR –

quilt batting

19½" [50cm] muslin or factory cotton


assorted WonderFil threads

Splendor (1166 Dark Punch, 5112

Dark Purple, 7118 Bright Rust, 3141

Pacific Blue, 4148 Dark Moss, 2120

Medium Gold)

Mirage (SD04 Mediterranean Blues)

Spotlite (8847 Burnished Gold)

Deco Bob (DB 301 Navy)


11¾" [30cm] ¾" wide grosgrain ribbon

1 pkg – 1" wide no roll elastic (black)

1 pkg – ½" wide braided elastic


basic sewing and rotary cutting


sewing machine with darning foot, ¼"

foot and zipper foot

#80 topstitch needle


brown paper for template

1 piece mat board 9" x 12" [23 x

30.5cm] or enough to cover both

sides of your tablet (if a mat board

is hard to find, book board or board

salvaged from old binders will


navy blue acrylic ink or fluid acrylic

1" [2.54cm] foam brush

small dish to mix ink

plastic to protect table

metal ruler

utility knife


ultrafine marker

parchment paper

Cutting the Inserts

1. Place tablet on the mat board and trace

around the device. Clean up the lines, and

then use a ruler and utility knife to cut the

mat board to size. Trim corners. Photo 1

2. Place insert against the device to

ensure accurate sizing and adjust

if necessary. Cut a second insert to


Preparing the Template

1. Place inserts side by side on a piece of

brown paper.

2. Put the tablet on the edge between

the inserts.

3. Mark outside corners of the inserts,

then use a ruler to square up the lines.

4. Place inserts and the tablet back on

the paper to check the dimensions.

5. Adjust sizing if necessary. Photo 2

6. Add 1" [2.5cm] to the length and 1½"

[4cm] to the width. Photo 3

Note: When using thicker boards and/or

battings, you may need to add an additional

¼" [6mm] to the width of the template.

TIP It’s strongly recommended to follow

the directions and make a test cover first.

This allows you to fine tune the fit and

make any adjustments necessary before

you cut into the embroidered fabric.

Preparing to Embroider

1. Fold template in half and place on the

interfacing. Cut interfacing larger than

the pattern piece, approximately 1"

[2.5cm] on all sides.

2. Place interfacing glue side down and

use a marker to draw around the

corners of the template.

3. Place interfacing on the circle

template, centering the design within

the drawn outline. Depending on the

size of the tablet, it might be necessary

to ‘fudge’ the position of the circles.

4. Draw in the circles. Photo 4

5. In a small container, place

approximately 6 drops of acrylic ink

and 1 teaspoon of water. Mix.

6. Place interfacing on a plastic sheet,

glue side down. Paint interfacing with

the thinned ink and set aside to dry.

Photo 5

cutting insert


creating pattern


template final


tracing circles


painting cover

Photos courtesy of Lucy Garvin.




fall 2014



color placement


FME circles


Embroidering the Cover

1. Cut muslin approximately 2" [5cm]

larger on all sides than the interfacing.

2. Fuse the two pieces together.

3. Prepare machine for free motion

embroidery. Use a top stitch needle

and a darning foot, set machine to

straight stitch, stitch length of 0 and

drop the feed dogs. Refer to photo for

color placement. Photo 6

4. Fill in the circles with free motion

embroidery. Photo 7

Note: As you go around the circles, the fabric

will draw up and cause some distortion.

5. Use Mirage in the needle, set machine

to zig zag (stitch width 3.5) and move

the piece forwards and backwards

to fill in the background. Try not to

stitch into the circles, aiming for a

loose but even coverage of the entire

background. Photo 8

6. Rotate piece 90º and repeat the zig

zag fill. Rotate piece 90º again and

repeat the zig zag fill. Work in layers

and rotate the piece each time, will

blend out the color changes in the

Mirage and give a dense background

fill. Photo 9

7. Dense stitching will draw up the fabric.

Check the piece against the folded

template and if necessary, add more

stitching to the outside edges.

8. Use metallic thread in the needle and

set the machine to straight stitch to

outline the circles. About five times

around the circle works well. Add rays

around the blue circles. Photo 10 & 11

9. Place embroidered fabric face down on

a towel and lightly press. Use the folded

template to cut the fabric to size.

Sewing the Front Cover

1. Lay out the full template on the fusible


2. Cut out the fleece, leaving an extra ½"

[13mm] on all sides.

3. Use parchment paper on top to fuse

the embroidered panel to the fleece,

lining up the right edge of the panel

with the right edge of the fleece.

4. Cut navy fabric larger than the

exposed fleece.

5. With right sides together, line up the

edge of the fabric with the left side of

the embroidered panel.

6. Sew using a ¼" [6mm] seam allowance,

then flip the fabric over and fuse it in


7. Quilt navy fabric as desired, and then

cut the cover to size.


embroidery gold highlight


embroidery finish



creating pattern





fall 2014

zig zag fill

cover with elastic


cutting lining


elastic corners


ribbon trim


pin lining

8. On the quilted side, mark the top and bottom

2½" [6.5cm] in from the edge. Cut a piece of

½" [13mm] braided elastic the same length

as the fabric. Pin the elastic in place and

machine baste. Photo 12

Preparing the Lining

1. Use the full template to cut one lining from

fusible fleece and one from the navy fabric.

Fuse the layers together and cut the lining in

half. Photo 13

2. On one lining piece, mark 2½" [6.5cm] in from

each corner. Cut the 1" [2.5cm] elastic into 4 –

4" [10cm] lengths.

3. Use the marks as a guide and pin the elastic

at 45º angles across the corners. Photo 14

4. Machine baste. Test the fit and adjust the

position of the elastic if necessary.

5. Trim off the excess elastic. This creates the

back lining.

6. Cut ribbon to size and pin along one edge of

the front lining, overlapping a scant ¼" [6mm].

Photo 15 Use a zipper foot to edge stitch in


Putting it all Together

1. Place front lining against the embroidered

panel right sides together and pin.

2. Pin back lining against the quilted panel.

Photo 16

3. Sew all around using a ¼" [6mm] seam


Note: Too generous a seam allowance and the inserts

will not fit. Too narrow and the inserts will move

around. Trim corners Photo 17 and turn right side out.

4. Insert mat boards into the pockets created

between the lining and the cover. Photo 18

5. To secure inserts in position, place the zipper

foot on the ribbon.

6. Sew layers together by sewing along the edge

of the inserts. Tie off the threads. Photo 19


trim corners


add insert


sew ribbon trim


Depending on the size, you may not be able

to fit the board between the needle and

the side of your machine. If it doesn’t fit,

insert the mat board into the back pocket

only. With the board to the left of the needle,

edge stitch on the fabric next to the board,

making sure to leave the ribbon free. Insert

the mat board into the front pocket and

sew hand tacking stitches next to the board,

going through all layers. To finish, hand sew

the edge of the ribbon to the fabric.




fall 2014




Halloween Door Quilt Greets Trick or Treaters

Nancy Devine





fall 2014


he days of colorful leaves and crisp fall air has arrived, and

that can mean only one thing: Halloween visitors knocking at

your door on the last night of October. Say hello to your callers

with this cheerful owl Halloween door quilt, which has strong

neodymium magnets sewn in the corners to adhere it to metal

doors. The design layout can also be used to decorate a trick or

treat bag that features light reflecting gross grain ribbon to help

make your little goblins more visible as they make their nighttime


You will need:

20 inch wide x 24 inch long quilting cotton in night sky color

14 inch wide x 20 inch long cotton batik in brown

fat quarter yellow or gold fabric

18 inch long x 20 inch wide piece of tear away stabilizer


HeatnBond Feather Lite iron on adhesive

appliqué press sheet

quilt batting

two black or amber colored buttons

embroidery floss

sewing machine threads: sew all and holographic embroidery

bobbin threads

basting spray

micro tweezer snips

Inkjet printer fabric

neodymium magnets (found at large craft stores or home

improvement stores)

Wash, dry and press all fabrics for this project.

The design layout is intended as a guide only. Feel free to make

the layout your own.

“By the pricking of my thumbs, Something wicked this way comes.

Open locks, Whoever knocks!” – – the second Witch, MacBeth, William Shakespeare

Preparing the fabric

1. Use the design layout as a guide to free-hand draw/or trace

the tree branch onto a piece of tear away stabilizer. Cut out

on the drawn line.

2. Place the wrong side of the tree branch fabric onto the

stabilizer. Pin or spray the fabric to the stabilizer. Cut out the

branch shape you have traced or drawn, adding 1⁄4 inch seam

allowance around the whole branch.

3. Leave the stabilizer paper in place and fold the edges of the

fabric crisply around the edge. Use a running stitch with

matching thread to baste all around the tree branch shape

and stabilizer.

4. When the whole shape is basted, thoroughly press it. Allow

it to cool and then tear away the stabilizer. Leave the basting

stitched in place, as they form part of the branch texture. Set

this aside for now.

5. With right sides together, pin the gold fabric to the same

amount of muslin. Use a large dinner plate to trace a circle

on the muslin.

6. Use a small machine stitch to sew the circle all around the

traced line. Cut out, ensuring you have a 1⁄4 seam allowance.

Clip curves every 1⁄2 inch.

7. Cut an X in the muslin. Turn the circle through this X.

8. Use a chop stick or similar to smooth the curves. Wiggle the

seams between your thumb and fore finger to ensure they

are smooth curves. Press.

9. Pin this moon to the night sky fabric, using the layout illustration

as a guide. Pin, and slip stitch to the night sky.

10. Add the branch to the scene. Pin and slip stitch to the night sky.

11. Load an inkjet fabric sheet into the printer, and print the

words onto the sheet.

12. Use the cloud template to trace the cloud shape around the

words. This is easier to do it you tape the word print out to a

sunny window or a light box.

13. As you did with the moon, match the inkjet printout with the

same amount of muslin. Sew along the traced shape of the

cloud. Cut out the cloud shape, clipping curves.

14. Use pinking shears, or a rotary cutter with a wave blade to

cut out the words. Place the words on the lower edge of the

moon. Use a tiny appliqué stitch to attach the word cloud to

the door quilt, overlapping the moon slightly.

Use stabilizer to help create crisp edges on the tree branch




fall 2014


4. Clip curves and turn the shapes through the X. When all the

shapes have nice smooth seams, press them well.

Use a seam ripper to make a slit in the muslin that backs the moon

appliqué. Turn to the right side through this opening.

Sewing it together

1. With right sides together, sew the muslin and the owl body

fabrics together. Use the same fabric for the face piece. Back

the eye and the wing pieces with muslin as well. (Remember

to reverse one of wing pieces.)

5. To make the beak and the feet, cut 1 1⁄2 squares from scrap fabrics.

Fold in half diagonally and then in half again. All raw edges

are on the long side of the triangle. Press each resulting triangle.

You'll be folding a gold colored triangle to create a beak.

6. Tack this triangle to the lower portion of the eye piece. Stitch

buttons to the eye piece. Stitch the eye/beak piece to the

face piece.

7. Use a brown or gold triangle for the owl's feet. Stitch these to

the bottom of the owl's body.

8. Fuse the owl tummy piece to the body, just under the chin

area. To protect your ironing surface, use an appliqué mat.

Do not use the steam function. Over time, steam breaks

down the Teflon surface of the mat, and ruins its antistick


9. Using dark brown embroidery floss, outline the tummy

piece, the wings and the eyes with a line of running stitches.

2. Trace all the shapes onto the muslin sides.

3. Machine sew around all the shapes, using a small stitch. Cut

out all the pieces, adding a 1⁄4 inch seam allowance around all

the pieces.


22 ●

.com fall 2014


10. Hand stitch the face to the body, ensuring the face covers

the tummy piece.

11. Press the owl element on the reserve side.

12. Attach the owl to the tree branch. Embroider the owl's legs

and feet from the body to the branch.

13. Our Halloween door quilt is taking on a cheerful – – and

almost spooky – – personality.

Adding some shimmerrrrrrr

What this picture needs is some texture! Coming right up, using

Sulky embroidery Holoshimmer embroidery threads. Technically,

these beauties are more like filaments, so some extra care must

be taken when using them.

1. Use a machine embroidery needle – – a new one for this

new project – – and a slightly loosened top tension in your

machine. It’s also important to change to a new bobbin,

filled with bobbin thread.

2. Switch to your machine's darning foot.

3. We're going to paint some bark onto the tree branches.

4. Drop your machine's feed dogs.

5. Place the door quilt top into a large embroidery hoop, but

rather than having the work sitting on top of the hoop like

a drum, reverse the installation so that the inner hoop is on

top of the quilt and flat to the machine bed.

6. Grip the sides of the hoop and move the tree area up and

down in a random way, "drawing”, as in free motion quilting,

some lines up and down the branch, to create the illusion of


7. Trim the threads away as you stop and start to get all the

branch areas covered. This is an easy task using 4 1⁄2 inch EZ

snips. The blades curve upwards, away from the work, and

the simple squeezing action is a perfect way to get a precise

snip without any hand fatigue. I love these little snips.

I've become a pretty big fan of the Holoshimmer threads. The

thread effect is quite subtle, but effective. It picks up just the

smallest bits of light and creates a noticeable shimmer. It's

just perfect for the spooking cheerfulness of our door quilt. It

reminds me of dewy spidery webs – – EEEK! I added some plain

black thread to the tree bark too.

9. Switch to your machine's clear embroidery foot, and engage

the feed dogs. Change to a yellow-gold Holoshimmer

thread. Select a decorative stitch and outline the moon. I

used a combination of two decorative stitches.

10. Cut 3 2 1⁄2 inch coordinating sashing strips. Attach them first

to the bottom edge and then to the sides, pressing the seam

inwards toward the dark sky fabric.

Our Halloween door quilt is looking spook-tac-ular!

We finished embellishing the Halloween door quilt with some

fancy threads and stitches. Our spooky little scene is ‘free-motion

quilting’ with some spooky air currents. After all, the wind

should always blow a little mystery into Halloween night.

1. Make a quilt sandwich with a backing, quilt batting, and the

quilt top. Spray baste and smooth the layers together.

Use a marking pen to create some swirls to suggest air currents.

This will be your free motion quilting motif. It helps to draw a few

strategically placed motifs on the quilt, then you can bust loose on

the wider areas of the quilt.

8. Remove the quilt top from the hoop and press on the

reverse side.




fall 2014


2. Cut 3 inch binding strips. Attach them first to the bottom

edge and then to the sides. I like to machine stitch the binding

to the front of the quilt, then fold the raw edges to just

the edge of the quilt. Press and then fold pressed strip to the

back. Press. Slip stitch the binding strip to the back of the


3. This quilt will stick to our steel door using super strong magnets

encased in four fabric pockets. Using an off cut from

the binding strips, right sides together, sew a four inch long

tube, turn right side out.

4. Cut four more or less equal squares from this sewn tube.

5. Slip a magnet into each pocket. Stitch closed, using a zigzag



1. Cut out the bag main pieces and the lining pieces.

2. Trace all the owl pieces onto the paper side of the HeatnBond

Feather Lite iron on adhesive. Protect your ironing

board with an appliqué mat.

3. Fuse the HeatnBond to the fabric scraps. Cut out the parts

and remove the backing paper, and iron them onto an 8 x

11 piece of night sky fabric. Use a zigzag stitch to attach the

appliquéd night sky fabric panel to one of the bag's main


4. Cut out triangles from the reflective tape.

5. Fuse a reflect tape triangle beak under the eyes.

6. Zigzag triangles onto the owl's eyes.

7. Outline the owl's eyes in decorative threads.

8. Outline the owl's wings in decorative threads.

This step is a bit tricky, because you're going to convince the

fabric to go through the feed dogs, even though the magnet

wants to stay put.

6. Tack the pockets to the corners of the door quilt.

Making the Loot Bag

Trick or treat is in the bag! Of all the loot bag ideas, our Halloween

loot bag is the most important fashion accessory for

October 31st. It uses up many scraps created from making this

week's Halloween door quilt.

Generally, trick or treat loot bags are often quite informal things.

They can range from cute little pumpkins to your very best

pillow cases. The little pumpkin doesn't hold much, and those

pillow cases aren't easy to replace, this is a good plan.

This is a sturdy bag that also features grosgrain ribbon with

reflective properties, which is great because Halloween activities

are fun, but they need to be safe too.

You will need:

canvas 18 inch wide x 20 inches long

lining fabric 18 inches wide by 20 inches long

fabric scraps

reflective tape

HeatnBond Feather Lite

applique mat

9. Sew reflective ribbon to the top of the bag front and back.

I used a strip of ribbon near the top of the front of the bag,

and three strips of the same ribbon on the back of the bag.

10. Sew the bag front to the back.


24 ●

.com fall 2014


15. Turn the bag through the lining opening and slip stitch the

opening closed. Press the top of the bag, and top stitch two

lines of stitching along the top to ensure the handles are

very secure.

Match the bag side and bottom seams and pin together. Measure

1 1/2 inches from the corners of the bag lining, and draw a line

straight across. Sew along the line and then cut 1/4 away from the

sewn line. Repeat with the main bag. That's a boxed corner, y'all.

11. Cut handles that are 4 inches x 8 inches. With right sides

together, sew two tubes and turn them right side out. Press

the tube so that the sewn seam is the center. Stitch the tube

ends closed.

12. On the right side of the bag, measure 3 inches from the

edge on both sides of the bag. Mark this and pin the handles

so that the center seam matches the mark.

13. Sew the lining pieces together, leaving a 5 inch gap at the

bottom for turning.

14. With right sides together, sew the lining to the bag top, taking

care ensure the bag handles are hanging straight down

inside the bag.

16. Give the whole bag a good press.

Wishing everyone a safe, happy, and candy filled

Halloween! z

Photos courtesy of Nancy Devine.




fall 2014


Word Cloud


26 ●

.com fall 2014


Owl body


Owl Tummy

Owl face

Owl wings

Owl eyes




fall 2014








Elaine Theriault

A zippered pouch can

contain anything we'd

like to carry around. It's a

relatively simple item to

sew up, but it gets more

interesting if we decide to

quilt it. Here are several

ideas on how to add flair to

this practical item and still

satisfy our love for quilting.




28 ●

.com fall 2014


Upholstery Samples

Once you’ve mastered the pattern basics for the zippered

pouches – the sky is the limit. You’ll be crazy about zippered

pouches too!

Change the size of the zippered pouch, choose a novelty print

that highlights a favorite hobby for friends and family, embellish

the pouches using some of the decorative stitches that can be

found on the Husqvarna Viking Opal 690Q.

Leftovers again?

You just finished the most amazing quilt ever and now you

have scraps. What to do with them? Piece them together and

make a zippered pouch. If the quilt is a gift for someone – then

you can always give them the pouch to match their quilt, or

keep the pouch for yourself.

While on a quilting retreat, I was working on a paper pieced

project. A friend took some of my scraps and made a cute

pouch which she lightly quilted instead of interfaced. A scrap of

fabric was used as a zipper pull. It now holds the letters for my

magnetic Scrabble board which goes on retreat with us!

Another friend of mine made a bargello quilt. When she finished

she was going to toss out the leftovers. Oh my! That won't do! I

took the scraps and rejigged them as necessary and made three

zippered pouches from the leftovers. When I was done – there

truly was nothing left. Even though the entire bag had seams – I

still made the bottom gusset and there was no problem with

the extra seams.

Orphans in the closet?

Everyone has orphan blocks. What are you going to do with

one or two orphan blocks? Make a small pouch the size of the

blocks or add some fabric to the sides to make the blocks into a

size that will work for a zippered pouch.

A friend of mine gave me a huge bag of orphan blocks which I

added to my orphan blocks. I dug through the bag and came

up with this pair of blocks that would be perfect for a zippered


I added a large piece to two sides of the block and a smaller

piece to the top and bottom. I trimmed both pieces so they

were the same size. You can have fun with colored zippers and

use up leftover fabric for the inside or a coordinating fabric.


Use up some of those upholstery samples. I seem to always

have some of them on hand and I grabbed one to make my

next zippered pouch.

Isn’t this a gorgeous bag. I cut off the top part of the bag where

the grommets were and used a section of that cut-off for the

ends of the zipper.

Size Matters!

Once you make your first zippered pouch, you will get an idea

of how the dimensions work out. Then you will be able to make

a bag that is custom fit for what you would like to put in it.

Think toiletries, school supplies, small electronic devices

and their accessories. toys, travel bags for the car

– there are limitless possibilities as to what and who you

can make a zippered pouch for. And let’s face it – the zippered

pouches are way more attractive than a Ziploc bag.

These zippered pouches are a breeze to make with the Husqvarna

Viking Opal 690Q. Make your customized ribbon tag using

one of the decorative stitches. The zipper foot makes the installation

of the zipper a breeze. But if you want to take it further

– why not decorate the outside of the bag with some of the

decorative stitches, try some crazy fabrics like denim or leather.

All you have to remember is to use the Exclusive Sewing Adviser

to make the necessary changes to stitch length and tension so

you don’t have to worry about that.

While I love making quilts, I find making these small projects

way more fun. They don't take long, they use up scraps and

you get to try out new techniques that you may never try on

a quilt. Plus you get to use more of the features on the sewing

machine! If only there were more time in the day – I have a lot

more ideas and no more time!

I am crazy about zippered pouches! I hope you enjoyed some

of the variations.

Here is the

original bag

that I made.

I started

with a 10

inch square.

Instruction photos by Elaine Theriault.




fall 2014





You can modify this pattern to make

any size pouch that fits your needs. It’s

so easy and there are so many fabric

options, that you’ll find yourself making a

customized one for each of your friends.


TWO – 10" x 8" rectangles of outer fabric

ONE – 2" x 4" rectangle of outer fabric

(for the zipper)

TWO – 10" x 8" rectangles for the lining

TWO – 10" x 8" rectangles of interfacing

ONE – 9 1⁄2" zipper

ONE – Fabric tag (that we made last time)

TIP I often have to use the hottest

setting on my iron in order to get the

interfacing to stick properly. Make sure

it is well adhered over the entire surface.

The interfacing gives the bag some body

and without it or without it being well

adhered, the bag can look wimpy.

Prepare the Zipper

Take the 2" x 4" piece of outer fabric

and fold in half lengthwise (wrong sides

together) and press.

Open the pressed edges and now take

the long raw edges and line them both

up to the center line and press.

Now one last fold – fold the piece in

half along the center fold. You now have

a long narrow unit. The raw edges are

tucked inside – the piece is four layers


Tuck the end of the zipper into one edge

of the folder unit. Top stitch along the

open end to secure the zipper in place.

Repeat the process on the other end of

the zipper. Be careful when you insert

the end with the zipper pull. Make sure

the two edges of the zipper are lined up.

Trim the ends of the zipper tabs so they

are flush with the edge of the zipper tape.

Insert the Zipper

Lay the zipper face down on the right

side along the 10" side of the outer

fabric. You may want to baste the zipper

in place. Take the lining and lay it

on top of the outer fabric – rights sides

together. The zipper will be sandwiched

in between the two layers. Make sure the

zipper is centered along that edge. Carefully

stitch through all three layers using

the zipper foot.

The zipper unit is placed face down on

the outer fabric. The lining will go on

top of these two pieces – right sides


Press the seam towards the outer fabric.


Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side

of the outer fabric. Alternatively you can

fuse the interfacing to the lining especially

if the outer fabric is pieced or is of a

heavier weight than quilting cotton.

If the ends of the zipper tape are too

long – simply cut them off before you

stitch the fabric tab to the end of the

zipper. If your zipper is too long, cut the

zipper at the length you want and sew

the zipper tab to the end. This will act as

a stopper.

Do the same for other end if it's also too


Lay the remaining edge of the zipper

face down on the right side of the last

piece of outer fabric. Baste the zipper if

you need. Take the lining and lay it on

top of the outer piece. Right sides are

together. The zipper is now sandwiched

between these two layers. Make sure the

zipper is centered along that edge and

that the raw edges of ALL four pieces are

lined up. Carefully stitch through all three

layers using the zipper foot.


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The unstitched edge of the zipper tape

is lined up with the edge of the second

outer fabric piece. Lay the other piece of

lining on top of these pieces with rights

sides together.

I like to do a very narrow row of top

stitching – very close to the edge of the

zipper. Gives it a much crisper look to the


Cut the Corners!

Cut out the spacing for the corners. This

will give you a nice flat bottom bag.

Mark the pouch top – I cut 1 1⁄4" from

each corner. Make sure you are cutting

through BOTH the pouch top and lining.

I marked with a pencil and used scissors

to make the cuts. Make sure you cut from

all FOUR corners of the pouch.

Turn the bag inside out

Turn the bag inside out and inspect your

handiwork. Is the tag in the right direction?

How did the matching go at the

zipper ends? If you are happy – there is

one last step.

Close the opening in the lining

While you could close the opening in the

lining by hand, it’s just as easy to use the

sewing machine to stitch that opening

closed. It’s in the bottom of the pouch

after all and will probably never be seen.

The Side Seams

Lay out the bag with the two outer layers

right sides together and the two lining

pieces right sides together. Stitch along

the four sides (but NOT into the corner

cuts). Leave an opening on the bottom

of the lining so you can turn the pouch

inside out.

If you made the personalized labels,

insert one into the side seam before you

sew them.

Carefully line up the center where the

zipper is. You want that intersection to

be nice and smooth.

NOTE: Open the zipper or you will not be

able to turn the pouch inside out.

The side seams are sewn, as well as the

top and bottom. Note there is a gap in

the lining material so you can turn the

bag inside out.

Stitch the corners

Bring the cut corners together – reversing

the side seams in the opposite direction.

Stitch across that seam. I reinforce

this seam by stitching it twice. Repeat for

all four corners.

Match up a side seam and the bottom

seam at the cut corner. Push the seam allowances

in opposite direction and stitch.

The FINISHED Zippered Fabric Pouch

Now wasn’t that easy? Get your materials

and make your own bag.

Remember you can modify the sizes

given to whatever size and shape you

want. This was so easy to make on the

Husqvarna Viking Opal 690Q. I used

many of its features.

This method of inserting a zipper

is fool proof and it looks good too!



ribbon tag

made on the


Viking Opal


I LOVE that tag!




fall 2014


Nancy Devine



...Travels from T-shirt to Quilted Art





fall 2014

Keep calm! There’s a way to preserve a special T-shirt.

Every July, it’s the same thing. We start gathering up the

things that we take to the cottage for vacation. These

essentials of life on the lake are tucked into the closets

during the long winter, emerging wrinkled and bedraggled,

hopeful of a summer of fun.

But sadly, they sometimes just don’t make the cut.Such was

the case for my son’s favorite Dr. Who T-shirt.

For those unfamiliar with Dr. Who, he is the title character in

a long-running British show about a time-travelling good

guy who takes mere mortals on fantastic adventures through

time and space. His spaceship is a vintage UK police call box

that has been retrofitted into the “Time And Relative Dimension

in Space” device, affectionately known as the TARDIS.

Although the TARDIS is bigger on the inside than it is on

the outside, the same cannot be said of the T-shirt: it has

become too small. But, it’s still precious to my boy. I know,

because I found it sort of folded on the chair in my studio.

He asked me to preserve it for all time in some way. I decided

to make it into wall art, in the same way that more ambitious

quilting mothers make T-shirt quilts for their children.

Let’s get started.

Begin by ironing the shirt. This is necessary because this is a quilt

project, and the edges need to be straight, not because I’ve

taken leave of my senses. I don’t usually iron T-shirts. This task

will be made much easier if you use an ironing spray like DYLON

EASY IRON. It isn’t a starch, but it helps smooth out those wrinkles

that have been buried in the closet since last September.

Line up the bottom edges of the shirt and give it a good shake.

Smooth it out on the ironing board. Give it a light spray with

DYLON EASY IRON and press. (Put a pressing cloth over the shirt

if the design has been ironed-on and not silk-screened. Most

T-shirts are silk-screened, so you should be okay).

When the shirt is more wrinkle-free than it has ever been before,

take it to the cutting mat. Line the ruler up to the sides, within

about three inches of either side of the design. Using a temporary

pencil, mark these lines.

Following the marked guides, slice off the shirt’s sides and arms.

Then, measure and mark about two inches from the top and

bottom of the design. Cut along the marked lines to remove the

neck and the bottom of the shirt. The back of the shirt will make

a nice dust cloth or cleaning rag, if you like that sort of thing.

Place what’s left of the shirt onto the fusible interfacing, so that

the fusible side is attached to the back side of the shirt. Take it to

the ironing board and fuse the interfacing to the shirt, following

the manufacturer’s instructions. Be sure to press, not iron back

and forth. You don’t want the shirt material to stretch.

Trim the interfaced design so that all the edges are straight. Use

a narrow zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish all the

edges. In the spirit of re-purposing, I tried out GUTERMANN’S

rPET RECYCLED thread. It worked wonderfully well. It’s made

from recycled plastic bottles, which is great, because this quilted

wall art will be made from a recycled shirt and re-purposed


Finish the edges with a zigzag stitch on the interfaced T-shirt design, as your

special shirt becomes wall art.

You will need:


505 Temporary Fabric Adhesive


Dylon Easy Iron


HeatnBond Feather Lite iron-on adhesive


Truecut rotary cutter and its ruler


Gutermann’s rPET recycled thread


six-color marking pen


free motion quilting gloves


very lightweight interfacing


quilt batting


iron and ironing board


safety pins


fabric glue stick


utility scissors


straight glass head pins


inkjet printer fabric


artist’s stretched canvas




fall 2014


Quilted Wall Art

Scrap Bin Diving Leads to Design

Those who love fabric have scraps.

Let’s dig out some scraps. If you love fabric, you have them,

it’s inevitable. In this quilted wallart – scrap bin diving leads to

design and creative endeavor.

I was sort of unsure how to proceed with this quilted (T-shirt)

wall art. I have one style, my son has another. I ended up putting

together a collection of scraps I believed would work with

the shirt design, and then let him have the final approval. I think

he chose well. They were a motley crew of random sizes, so I decided

on measuring them to fit a 14 x 20 stretched artist canvas

from the hobby store. For my canvas, they measure 3 1/2 inches

wide. The length will be determined largely by the side length

of the canvas used. As this is a scrappy project, it’s hard to be

precise. Just keep adding scraps of the same width until you

have enough to cover the sides.

Trim up the scraps to the desired width. Then play around with

the arrangement. It took me a few tries to get one I liked.

Then, pin the scraps together to make the bands that will frame

the shirt design.

Although quilters normally press the seam allowances to one

side, I opted to press the seams open so they were as flat as possible

to reduce the bulk around the frame. However, it will also

work if you use the traditional method.

Once you have the bands pieced together, sew the top and

bottom bands to the design first, and then trim them so they

are flush with the sides of the design. Next, sew the side bands

to the design. (I used GUTERMANN’S rPET RECYCLED thread

in this project. I like the notion of using threads made from

recycled pop bottles to upcycle a t shirt into wall art.)

Press the whole quilt very well, paying special attention to the

front of the design. Those seams need to be as flat as possible.

Free Motion Quilting

aka Free Mo is Preemo!

Press the seams as open and flat as possible.

Free motion quilting is indeed preemo, let’s discover


When we last left our too-small T-shirt, it was on its way to

a new life as a piece of quilted wall art. Today, let’s make a quilt

sandwich of well-pressed foundation fabric, batting and the

quilt top.

The foundation fabric can be simple quilter’s muslin or a large

piece of lightweight cotton. I like to use cotton quilt batting for

art projects because it’s relatively flat and can be quilted quite

closely without bunching.


There are several

ways to baste the

layers of the quilt

sandwich together

before you begin free

motion quilting.

Smooth out any wrinkles in the quilt sandwich and pin with

safety pins. You could do this with straight pins, but moving

them through the machine is a dangerous and painful plan. You

could also spray baste with 505 Temporary Fabric Adhesive to

baste the layers together, or use a fabric glue stick.

I tend to pin larger quilts and use temporary adhesives on

smaller projects. I like all the methods, but the safety pins might

be my favourite because you have to stop to remove them

now and then. It makes me a be a bit more careful when I am

machine quilting a design.

The wall art can be quilted in any method you choose. If you

want to use your machine’s quilting foot, install it according to

the directions and quilt in the ditch along the seam bands.

I decided to use free-motion quilting.

Free Mo gets a bad rap. It’s not that difficult, but it does take

some practice, and some familiarity with the accessories that

came with your machine. Once you get the hang of free mo,

you’ll think it’s preemo.

If you can drop the feed dogs on your machine, do that. If not,

look for the darning plate that came with the machine and

replace the plate according the sewing machine manual.

Now, install the darning foot on your machine, according to the

manual. Set your stitch length and width to 0. This is because

you are going to control both.

Pin a practice quilt sandwich together with safety pins — or

whatever basting method you like. Free Mo requires a good grip

on the fabric. Machine quilting gloves look a bit like gardening

gloves, and the ‘grippy’ material on the palms maintains good

control of the fabric.

Raise the darning foot and place the practice material under it.

Lower the foot. This seems weird because there’s so much room

under the foot, even when it is lowered. Do it anyway. Thread

issues will ensue if you don’t.

In Free Mo, the needle is moving fast, but you are moving the

material relatively slowly in a random pattern. This takes some

practice. You can do a meandering pattern, swirls, loops —

whatever strikes your fancy. You’ll have to stop to remove some

safety pins as you journey around your quilt top.

There are those who say you should never cross stitches and

loop back over them. I am not one of those people. For me, it’s

more about achieving a good stitch length and having fun.

If you’re comfortable with the idea of free motion quilting, go

ahead and rock out on that T-shirt quilt top. Pick a matching

thread, just in case you make a mistake. If the thread matches,

no one will notice.

Tools used in free motion quilting include quilting gloves to provide

a good grip on the fabric.

Do your practice run on remnant fabric. It matters when doing free motion





fall 2014



the Quilted Wall Art with

Computer Graphics


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Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to print graphics

on inkjet fabric. Bond them using HeatNBond Lite

Adhesive,then sew them after bonding.

Now that the T-shirt top is free motion quilted, it’s time to embellish

the quilted wall art with computer graphics. This can be

as simple as adding a date, a quote, or even a photograph.

For my project, the T-shirt refers to a set of characters in Doctor

Who called the weeping angels. They are truly frightening, but

they also have a lot of fan art and quotes associated with them.

So, I went on an Internet hunt and found a quote from the show

when the angels first appeared, as well as a bit of copyright-free

line art.

Copyright-free images can be found on several websites, but

my favorite is The Graphics Fairy. There are hundreds of images

there, and there’s a searchable database.

Iron on the images to the design. This little GO-IRON is the right

size for these types of jobs because you can see around it. It

heats up in a big way and creates a solid bond.

I created a file in my computer’s graphics program and played

around with shapes, lines, effects and filters until I got what I

wanted from these images. Then, I set my printer to “Best Quality”

and did a practice print on regular paper. Once I was happy

with that, I loaded the printer with a sheet of Inkjet Fabric. This

paper-backed fabric has been treated to accept inkjet printing,

and is colorfast. It’s fairly expensive, so if I have some extra room

on the page, I add random graphics I might need for future

projects, rather than waste space on the fabric sheet.

The printed fabric should be left alone for a few minutes to dry.

Then use decorative edge scissors to cut out the design. Do this

while the paper is still backing the fabric, since it’s almost impossible

to do once you remove the paper.

Remove the paper and apply Heat N Bond Iron-On Adhesive

to the wrong side of the design, following the manufacturer’s

directions. I used the FEATHER LITE version, which can also be

stitched through without gumming up the needle or adding

extra stiffness. (I used Rasor’s Edge Utility Scissors scissors to cut

the adhesive to fit the graphics. I didn’t want to cut paper with

my good fabric shears). Once the graphics are ironed on, you

can machine stitch them in place and/or use embroidery floss

to add the embellishments I elected to do both.

Aren’t you glad that

embellishing the

quilted wall art with

computer graphics

isn’t as hard as you

might have thought?

Pick DMC embroidery floss colors to enhance the graphic elements added to

the quilt.

To embellish around the graphic elements, I embroidered a line of running

stitches all around the element in one color…

Then weave a second color in and out of the running stitches.


A Power Tool

that is not a

Sewing Machine

Spray basting with 505 is the best way to

make this step work. It’ll keep the layers

from shifting as you staple the completed

quilt to the artist’s canvas.

This step requires time and patience

to keep the tension around the wall

quilt more or less even.


38 ●

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Ready to hang and enjoy. The shirt off his back is now on my son’s wall.

We finish up the T-shirt quilted wall art project

using some hardware not normally found in a

quilter’s studio: a staple gun.

Prepare your stretched canvas for the big frame

up by spraying the surface with 505 Temporary

Fabric Adhesive. Add a layer of quilt batting to

the top that has been cut to the exact dimensions

of the top. Press the batting down lightly

to make sure it has made contact with the

canvas below. Now, bring your quilt top to the

canvas and center it on the quilt batting. Use

straight glass head pins to pin the top to the

batting, just to keep it place. Turn the canvas

over so that you’re looking at the back. Staple

one corner, and then the one diagonal to it.

Repeat for the other side.

Gently pull some of the side fabric to the middle

of the canvas frame and staple. Repeat on the

other side. Repeat the process on the top and

bottom. Continue gently pulling and stapling

— each time repeating on the opposite sides of

the frame.

You can finish the back with a nice piece of fabric

if you like, or use brown craft paper as they

do in framing shops. Don’t forget to sign and

date the back.

Install framing hardware onto the back, and pick

a place to display your new up-cycled T-shirt. It

has now become quilted wall art to last through

time, and quite possibly, space.

enjoy the journey — where ever it takes you

and know that occasionally you can use a power

tool that is not a sewing machine for your quilting

project. z

Photos courtesy of Nancy Devine.




Jennifer Houlden

On-the-Go Quilted Place-mat all rolled up

The other day when I was meeting with

my kindred group we were about to have

lunch and one of the members rolled

out her on-the-go place-mat. I thought, ‘how

cool is that?!’ When I saw it I was thinking that

I needed an easy quilt pattern to take a short

break from my other bigger quilt project. I

always think of neat things to give as gifts and

thought of this placemat.

Everything you need for a picnic all rolled up

in one place. She had her utensils and napkin

right there at her fingertips. No searching for

these items when they are all neatly rolled into

one package.

The rolled up place-mat would also be great

to take along for a pot luck lunch at work, kid’s

birthday parties, to stash in the car or camper

when you stop at a roadside picnic area for

lunch on that long road trip or even to use at

home on your deck.

The choices of fabrics at your local quilt shop

means that you could individualize them for

each member of your family so that there’s no

squabbling over who gets which color. Perfect

as a gift for all the special people in your life as

well. The possibilities are endless.

I figured why not make one for myself and use

the Quilt Expression 4.2 from Pfaff to create

this neat little project. I can use many of the

cool features I highlighted on QUILTsocial.com

in June when I first got the machine. And who

knows maybe even discover some more.


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Selecting the Fabric

First things first, the fabric selection. If any of you have been to

my studio you know that I have a very large stash – well huge

in fact, so lots of fabrics to choose from. My criteria is that the

fabric had to be something fun, bright and summery.

I decided on this dragonfly fabric seeing how dragonflies are

only here in the summer. I had purchased it a couple of years

ago from one of my local quilt shops and the fabric has been

waiting to be used in that perfect project. It has a lovely shimmer

to it and I thought I need shimmery fabric to go with it. I

had also purchased a whole stack of fat quarters that were shimmery

from another shop and figured they would go perfectly

with the dragonfly fabric.

And they do, don’t you think?

My fabric selection

Easy Quilt Pattern Blocks

With so many shimmery fat quarters in awesome colors I

decided to create some blocks with them for the center of the

placemats. Nothing elaborate, just some fun playing with strips

and squares and curves. Since I hadn’t done a lot of piecing with

the Quilt Expression 4.2 I figured why not make a few blocks.

Strip Blocks

I used the green and yellow-green fabrics to create a set of

strips. Each fabric was cut a different width to give some variation

in the block. Using the IDT system with the quarter inch

foot on the Quilt Expression 4.2 makes for nice straight seams

and even feed of the fabric.

A good idea when sewing strips of fabric together, especially

longer ones, is to sew one set of strips in one direction and the

next set in the opposite direction. For example, if the one end

has the selvedge in place start at that end when sewing the two

strips together and then when adding on the next strip start at

the end without the selvedge. This just helps to ensure that the

whole piece ends up square without any twists or waves in it.

The 2 strip blocks look pretty good. I love the contrast between

the light and dark fabrics.

Six Patch Block

This time using a couple of the purple fabrics, a light and dark to

give some contrast within the block I cut up some 3 ½" squares.

Still with the quarter inch foot in place and the IDT system

engaged I made six pairs each with a light and dark square.

I pressed all the seams towards the dark fabric and by doing this

when I sewed the pairs together the seams butted together

perfectly as they were each going in the opposite direction. This

helps to reduce seam bulk where seams meet.

Just to be a bit different instead of the usual four patch or nine

patch block I made a six patch block which then created a rectangular

block rather than a square one. There really is no rule as

to how many squares you can sew together.

Two green striped blocks

Two six patch blocks

Photos courtesy of Jennifer Houlden.




fall 2014


Two curved blocks

Feature fabric with complementary coordinating fabrics.

Curved Block

And finally but definitely not least of the blocks I could create I

wanted to see how well the Quilt Expression 4.2 worked on a

curved seam. Curved seams are not nearly as hard as everyone

thinks they are. The key is to have a nice gentle wave.

Once again two contrasting fabrics are used in order to see the

curves. The key is to cut nice gentle curving lines in the layered

fabrics with a rotary cutter.

Once again I used the IDT system and a quarter inch foot with

the needle in down position to sew the curved pieces together.

They fed very well under the machine especially when the free

ends of the pieces are lifted up slightly off the sewing machine

bed. This just helps to guide the curves under the foot to maintain

that ¼" seam allowance.

When pressing curved seams I press with steam to make sure

that everything lies nice and smooth. Using steam to press

seams is usually a no-no as it does tend to distort fabric especially

cotton but because I usually make my curved blocks a bit

larger than needed I can square them off and all is good.

Voila! Two wonderful curved blocks.

Decisions, Decisions

Now with all of these blocks made in all these wonderful colors

and textures I have to decide how to use them in my placemats.

At least the fabrics have been picked, as that’s always half

the battle.

Sewing Decisions Made

I decided that I would use only two of the shimmery fabrics to

go with my feature fabric rather than the quilt blocks I made

yesterday. I figured it would be easier sewing the first one with

plain pieces of fabric rather than with the blocks so I’ll put them

aside for now.

The next decision was which shimmery fabrics do I use? It was a

tough decision but I picked my favorite complementary colors

of blue and orange to use for sewing this first on the go quilted


As well I needed to decide how big I wanted the place-mat to

be so that I knew what size to cut the pieces. I foolishly didn’t

measure my friend’s place-mat so decided to go with a size that

would work with a dinner plate. My finished size is 12 x 18 inches.

Cutting Instructions

All the measurements include the ¼" seam allowance.

From the feature fabric (dragonflies)

Piece A – cut one piece 9½" x 12" for the center of the place-mat

Piece F – cut one piece 14" x 20" for the back of the place-mat

Piece H – cut two strips 2¼" x WOF for the binding

From the coordinating fabric (blue)

Piece B – cut one piece 4½" x 12" for the left side of the place-mat

Piece C – cut one piece 5" x 12" for the right side of the place-mat

From the accent fabric (orange)

Piece D – cut one piece 6" x 5" for the utensil pocket

Piece E – cut two pieces 4" x 5" for the napkin holding bands

Piece G – cut two strips 2" x 18" for the ties

Double folded edge at top of utensil holder piece.


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Now that the pieces are cut, I can get on with sewing the pieces

into a place-mat. I’ll walk you through each step of the way and

this is a beginner project so anyone can do it.

Let’s get started!

Sewing The Utensil Holder

Step 1

Fold one end of the fabric over to the back about an inch and

press so that there is a very good crease. I use steam for this. You

may want to use a stylet of some sort so you do not burn your


Turn the piece over to the back and fold the one inch section

back over under itself so that no raw edge is showing. With

no raw edges showing the fabric will not fray. Press again with

steam. This will make a very nice edge on the utensil holder section

of the place-mat.

Step 2

Topstitch the folded over edge about an 1⁄8" from the edge of the

folded over piece. I sew with the wrong side of the fabric up so

that I can run the 1⁄8" mark of the quarter inch foot on my Pfaff

Quilt Expression 4.2, along the edge of the folded over bit. This

makes for a nice straight line of topstitching which is about 3⁄8"

from the top of the piece.

Note the placement of the fabric under the foot in the photo


Step 3

Pin piece D to the bottom of piece C matching up the raw edges.

The wrong side of piece D will be facing the right side of piece C.

My favorite pins for piecing are the flower headed pins from

Clover as they are long, sharp and easy to remove while sewing. I

always pin with the head of the pin coming out to the right of the

fabric. This makes it easy to grab them and remove before getting

to the foot and needle as you never want to sew over a pin. This

could result in an unplanned trip to the sewing machine doctor.

Sew the raw edges together with an 1⁄8" seam along the right

hand side and bottom of piece D. Most quarter inch feet do

have an 1⁄8" mark on them. The toe of this quarter inch foot is an

1⁄8" so that makes it very easy to sew this line of stitching.

Stop at the corner and pivot to sew in the other direction. Having

the needle in the needle down position is very helpful for this

and the foot hover makes it easy to turn the fabric under the foot.

At this point only 2 sides of piece D or the utensil holder are

sewn down.

I used a contrasting color of thread for this but matching thread

will work as well. Whatever you wish to use. I decided that I didn’t

want to be switching threads and am using the same thread for

the topstitching as well as the quilting.

In the photo below I even sewed the pieces together with this

thread which is not normal for me as I always use a neutral color

when piecing. The tension control, stitch length and quality of

stitching on the Quilt Expression 4.2 make it easy to use the

colored thread for piecing without it showing.

Sewing the topstitch line an 1⁄8" from the edge

Step 4

Pin the unit made in step 5 to piece A with right sides

together. Sew together with a ¼" seam allowance. Press the

seam towards piece A.

Utensil holder sewn to background fabric

Pieces A,C & D sewn together.




fall 2014


Sewing The Napkin Holders

Step 1

Fold the 2 piece E pieces in half with right sides together. Sew

a ¼" seam along the raw edge of each piece to create a tube.

Make sure to use a locking stitch at both ends to secure the

stitching. The Quilt Expression 4.2 comes with a locking stitch

function but if your machine doesn’t have this feature then

reverse sewing at the start and finish will lock the stitching in


Tube folded in half and topstitched together.

Step 4

Place the 2 bands made in step 3 evenly spaced on piece B. I

placed them at the 4 and 8 inch mark on the ruler. See photo

below. The band pieces will hang over the edge of piece B a bit.

Fabric sewn together to create a tube

Step 2

Turn the tube right sides out and press with the seam along the

center of the tube. Because a locking stitch was used at each

end of the seam the seam didn’t come apart as the fabric was

being manipulated to turn the tube.

Placement of napkin holder bands on background fabric

Step 5

Place the utensil holder unit which was made yesterday on top

of the pieces from step 4. Take care not to shift the band pieces

as you pin everything together. Once again I used my flower

headed pins to pin everything together as they are long and

sharp making it easy to go through the multi layers of fabric.

Sew the pieces together with a ¼" seam allowance. Press the

seam towards piece B.

Tube turned right side out and pressed with seam at the center.

Step 3

Fold the units made in step 2 in half along the seam line. Press

flat with a steam iron. Topstitch the pieces together where the

edges meet using an 1⁄8" seam.

Placemat top completed


I love the fabric combination.


44 ●

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Quilting the




Now that the placemat is all sewn together it’s time to do some

quilting. Some people love the piecing process of a quilt

while others prefer the quilting stage. I enjoy the whole process

and love to see how the piece changes as each step is completed.

I thought about how to quilt the place-mat and decided to keep

it nice and simple with straight lines using the IDT system which

is the built-in walking foot on the Pfaff Quilt Expression 4.2. I

acquired an open toe decorative foot for the machine which will

make it much easier to see my stitching lines and hopefully keep

me going in a straight line. This foot is great for applique and

decorative stitching since it has a large open area in which to see

your work and where you’re stitching. Definitely one of my favorite

feet and a must-have foot with any machine I use.

Sandwiching the Layers for Quilting

The Layers

It isn’t a real sandwich but in quilting it’s called a sandwich of

layers. Sandwich is kind of appropriate though considering this

project is made specifically for picnics and food events.

The layers include the quilt top, or place-mat top in this case, batting

and the backing. I am using a cotton batting which is nice

and thin and will lay flat when quilted. That will make it easier for a

plate to sit on the place-mat. Both the backing and batting need

to be at least an inch larger all the way around than the quilt top

for a small project like this and 2 inches larger all the way around

for a large project. This is just in case there is any movement of the

layers while quilting.

Basting Methods

To prevent movement of these layers when quilting it’s a good

idea to baste them together. I prefer to baste with curved safety

pins made specifically for this purpose and I usually place them

about a fist width apart. Yes, I use a lot of pins and I have a lot of

pins. The other methods that can be used are to spray baste with

a product such as 505 Spray Basting Glue or to hand baste with

thread, which I find is very time consuming.

Note how close together the safety pins are in the photo below.

Marking the Quilting Lines

Chalk Lines

I decided that I’d use lines 1½ inch apart on the quilt top. This will

hold everything in place nicely. There are many ways to mark the

lines on a quilt. One of my favourite marking tools is the Chaco

Liner from Clover. It’s easy to use, easy to see on the fabric and

easy to remove after the quilting is done. Because it’s chalk, it usually

disappears with the stitching.

Remember to always start quilting in the center of the quilt as this

will allow for any movement of fabric to go out towards the edges

and not create bunches in the middle. If it’s basted well there

should be very little movement of the fabric when quilting.

Layers basted with curved safety pins.

Using the guide to mark the quilting lines.

Chalk lines mark where the quilting will be.




fall 2014


Quilted place-mat with parallel lines.

Masking Tape

Another marking method that I often use is masking tape. It

comes in different widths and so I just use the desired width, lay

down on the quilt and stitch along the edge of it.

Note the amount of space the open toed decorative foot has

in the photo below – great for seeing what you’re stitching and

where you’re going.

Machine Guide

Finally most machines come with a guide that attaches to the

back of the presser foot shank on the machine. The Quilt Expression

4.2 is no exception and so I put it on and gave it a go. The

curved area lines up with the previous line or edge that you

wish to follow. Measure from the needle to the curved blade

area the length to which the quilting lines are to be apart and

tighten in place, then sew. As simple as that.

Quilting the Place-mat

There are three important items needed for successful quilting.


I used the same thread for quilting as I used for the topstitching

on the utensil holder and the napkin bands. It’s a thread from

WonderFil called Tutti. It’s a 100% cotton, 50 weight variegated

thread that works in the bobbin as well as on the top. This line

of thread has a huge array of fantastic colors. I love them all.


I made sure to replace my needle with a topstitch 90 needle

prior to quilting. Using the topstitch needle with the layers and

variegated thread will make a nicer stitch and help to prevent

any thread breakage. For further information about needles

check out the Schmetz needle guide – a very useful document.

Walking Foot

With the IDT system engaged, the open toed foot in place and

the needle in the down position I stitched the sandwich layers

together. I went right over top of the utensil holder so that three

individual spaces would be created for the utensils to slip into.

The middle one I made just slightly larger so it could accommodate

2 utensils.

Stitching along the masking tape.

Binding a Place-mat

is like Binding a Quilt

Binding a place-mat is like binding a quilt

just on a smaller scale unless of course

you’re into mini quilts. I personally have

never made a mini quilt but could be up to

the challenge with the right project.

First though before we talk about binding

we need to add some ties to the place-mat

so that it can be rolled up and ready to go

on a picnic. Hence the reason it’s called an

‘on-the-go place-mat’.





fall 2014

Making and Attaching the Ties

The ties require 2 strips of the accent fabric (piece G).

The easiest way I found to make the ties is with the Clover

Bias Tape Maker. The bias tape makers come in many different

sizes and I use the 1 inch one for the ties. The tape maker

is very simple to use and for some step by step instructions

check out my tutorial on making ties or drawstrings.

The strips in the blog are much longer than what is needed

for the ties. I made the strips 18 inches for this project. Once

the strips are made then the next step is to fold over the

fabric, press it well with steam and topstitch down the edge

just as we did with the napkin bands an 1⁄8" from the edge.

I zigzagged one end of the tie so that it wouldn’t fray. I had

no issue sewing a zigzag stitch on this tiny bit of material

using the IDT system and open toed decorative foot. To finish

off the ties I tied a little knot at the end of each tie. Now

they’re ready to be attached to the place-mat.

Attach the two ties to the back of the place-mat between

the napkin holders. Stitch them in place with an 1⁄8" seam.

When the binding is attached the ¼" seam will further secure

them in place.

Binding the Placemat

The binding requires two strips (Piece H) of which ever fabric

you want to bind it in, I used the dragonfly fabric.

Make and attach the binding using your favorite method. My

favorite method is to sew the binding on the front and then

hand sew it to the back. If you’d like some help with binding

you can check out these two tutorials on how to make binding

and how to attach binding to a quilt.

When I’m hand stitching the binding in place I use the red

Wonder Clips from Clover to keep the fabric in place. I love

these little red clips. Prior to finding these I never used anything

and now I don’t bind without them.

So the project is all done and dusted. Can you stop at just

one? I don’t think I can.

Ties sewn to the back of the place-mat.

Binding clipped in place for hand sewing to the back.

Using Up the Leftover Bits of Fabric

I made a coaster from the left over bits of fabric that I had

and quilted it with some decorative stitching. What a great

time I had playing with the decorative stitches on the Pfaff

Quilt Expression 4.2 – only 200 + to choose from. I have managed

to use a few stitches today and a few last month. The

bias binding was a bit tricky attaching the ends together due

to the size of the project but I was successful. Where there’s a

will there’s a way. The coaster folds in half and can be stowed

with the napkin.

Adding in the Easy Quilt Blocks

I was very excited about this little project and once I made

the first one with plain pieces of fabric I decided to use up

those easy quilt blocks that I made when I first started.

I cut them up and used them for the utensil holder, napkin

bands and coasters. It worked out just perfectly and I love

how the blocks add just a little bit of pizazz to the placemats.

Each one is definitely unique.

Leftover fabric with decorative stitching make a great coaster to

go with the on-the-go place-mat.




fall 2014


On-the-go place-mats and matching quilted table topper make

for a striking table setting!

Dragonflies appliqued onto the nine patch dragonfly table topper

to match the on-the-go place-mats!

Fun With Dragonflies

So I just couldn’t seem to stop myself and since I had some fabric left over

and not really enough to do much with I decided to make a nine patch

table topper and add in some applique. A few dragonflies flying in a circle.

The machine performed beautifully with the blanket stitch and doing the

stitching in black has certainly made the dragonflies standout.

This piece is 18 inches square which fits perfectly on the center tile of my

deck table.

What a great week I had making these on-the-go placemats and accessories

with the Pfaff Quilt Expression 4.2 machine. This machine has so

many great features that made the sewing, piecing, quilting, and finishing

of this easy quilting project a delight. I’ll be the envy of the neighborhood

with my fancy on-the-go placements ready for any picnic or outdoor eating


Binding a place-mat is like binding a quilt and now that the place-mats are

all bound I can set my picnic table in style. z

Happy Quilting



Back Porch Pillow

Christine Baker



Selecting the fabrics

Usually when I make a quilt, the last thing I

select is the thread, and I pick it to match

or contrast the fabrics in the finished quilt

top. Today, since I have a limited numbers of colors

of WonderFil threads to choose from, I’m working


I really love the blues and greens in my selection

of threads, so I picked those and started to select

fabrics to match. I wanted the quilting to stand out,

so I picked a white-on-white for the background

and a selection of dark blues, medium blues and

teals for my design.



50 ●

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The hexagons have it!

If you haven’t noticed yet – hexagons are EVERYWHERE!

From traditional grandmothers garden quilts to more modern

designs, hexagons are extremely versatile and are popular with

quilters who want to hand piece, machine piece or applique.

I’ve just recently delved into the world of hexagons and I have

to say, I really love the modern look that you can accomplish

using bright fabrics and neutrals like white, grey and black. Here

is a quilt that I’ve been working on for a little while.

Back Porch Pillow supplies list

If you’d like to make your own hexagon appliqued pillow, here

are the supplies that you’ll need.

White fabric for pillow front 19" x 19"

Lining fabric 21" x 21"

Batting 21" x 21"

Fabric for pillow back two pieces 15" x 19" each

Twelve scraps of fabric 5" x 5" each

Fusible web ¼m

505 Spray

16" pillow form

My hexagon quilt in progress.

Starting my back porch pillow

For my quilted pillow, I decided to do a hexagon design that is

appliqued using fusible web. I want to quilt the background

first, before I applique the hexagons, so the first thing I needed

to do was to make the quilt sandwich. The pillow top fabric,

batting and lining were layered and fused together with 505

Spray. For detailed directions on layering a quilt sandwich,

check out my post at this link.

Marking the quilting lines

Once the quilt sandwich was made, I needed to mark a line on

the top, to machine quilt using my walking foot. I wanted to do

a 2" grid across the entire top, so the first thing I did was to mark

a line on an angle across the top. I used my long rotary cutting

ruler and a mechanical pencil to lightly mark the quilt top.

Machine quilting with my WonderFil threads

Once the line was drawn, I used my walking foot to stitch along

the line using my FruittiFT22. I then used this line as a guide to

draw parallel lines 2" apart all across the top. I stitched along all

of these lines with the same color of Fruitti thread. Once all of

these were stitched, I drew one line the other direction, perpendicular

to the first lines. I stitched this line with FruittiFT23 and

then drew parallel lines to it, 2" apart all across the top. I stitched

the rest of the lines with the same color thread.

Marking the first quilting line across the pillow top.

Marking the second group of quilting lines perpendicular to the first set.




fall 2014


Pillow top with quilting lines completed.

Hexagon fusible applique template.

Trace onto paper side of fusible web.


After stitching one direction with the blue variegated Fruitti thread and

the other direction with the teal variegated Fruitti thread, my 2” grid of

quilting is all finished. Now I just need to prepare my fusible applique

hexagons and decide where to place them!

Placement 1 – scattered randomly across pillow top.

Preparing the fusible applique hexagons

To make your hexagons, trace the following template onto the dull side

of a square of fusible web, making sure to leave at least ¼” between each

of the shapes. Loosely cut each shape out, just outside the drawn lines.

Place these fusible web shapes onto the BACK side of the cotton fabrics

you’ve chosen and then iron. Once the fabric has cooled, cut along the

drawn lines and then peel off the backing paper. To see pictures of this

process, check out my blog post.

Deciding upon a design

Once all of your fusible applique shapes have been made, now comes

the fun part of deciding where to place them. I went through a few

different designs before I came up with the one I was most happy with.

Here are photos of different designs that you could use.

Placement 2 – most of hexagons lined up in one corner of

pillow top.

Placement 3 – hexagons lined up along left side of pillow top.


52 ●

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My fusible applique design finalist

Most of the time when I am designing, I like to rearrange things quite a

bit before I decide what design I like the best. Taking pictures of each version

helps with this process. It works well for fusible applique as well as

for rearranging blocks in a pieced top. The size of the photo helps too, as

the quilt image is smaller and sometimes design flaws will pop out at you

better in the photo than when you are looking at the actual quilt.

Sometimes looking at a design for a few days helps too. I especially like

to do this when I’m quilting quilts for other people. If a quilting design

doesn’t come to me as soon as I see the quilt, I’ll often drape the quilt top

over the bed of my quilting machine so that I can look at it for a few days

– eventually a quilting design will start to take shape in my mind and I’m

off to the races.

If you can’t decide what design you want to use for your back porch

pillow, leave your fusible applique hexagons placed on the pillow top

for the night, and you'll see it in a different way – you may decide that

you like it, or decide on a different design. That’s one of the great things

about fusible applique – it is VERY versatile!

When designing your own quilted top, playing with fabric and

threads has never been so much fun…

Hand blanket stitch diagram.


Although I liked all of the design versions that I came up with, when I

placed the appliques in a line down the side of the pillow, I was most

happy with the way it looked. Because the quilting lines were on an

angle, it was hard to make sure that the hexagons were lined up evenly,

so I used my long ruler and laid it along the left side of the pillow top

so that the 4½” line was along the edge of the pillow top. Then I placed

my hexagons down along the side of the ruler in one line. I then

placed a second line of hexagons beside the first as shown below.

Iron them down

Once you’re happy with how you’ve arranged the hexagons, follow

the manufacturer’s directions on your fusible web product and use a

hot iron to fuse them in place. To prevent the adhesive from marking

up your iron, you can use a Teflon pressing sheet in between your iron

and pillow top.

Machine applique using a blanket stitch

Once all of the hexagons were in place, I used the blanket stitch setting

on my machine to stitch along all of the raw edges. To do this on

your pillow, follow these steps:

1. Test your blanket stitch on a scrap fabric to adjust the length and

width until you find the setting that you like best.

2. Bring the bobbin thread up to the top and hold both top and bobbin

thread in your left hand as you start to stitch – this will prevent

the bobbin thread from bunching up on the back.

3. Do a couple small straight stitches on the side of the hexagon to

lock your stitches, then set your machine to blanket stitch and stitch

along one side until you get to the corner.

4. Use your “needle down setting” if you have it, or stop stitching

when the needle is down on the background fabric (just beside

the corner of the hexagon). Pivot and then keep stitching along the

next side. Repeat until you’re all the way around.

5. Do another couple straight stitches at the end to lock your stitches

then clip your top and bottom threads.

Final placement of the applique shapes.

Ironing down the hexagon appliques.

Machine blanket stitching the applique shapes – Put the

needle down at each corner and pivot.

Hand applique vs machine applique

If your sewing machine doesn’t have a nice blanket stitch or you’d just

prefer to do a hand blanket stitch around each hexagon, check out the

instructions on my blog post from last month.

The machine applique is all finished

I ended up using both the Fruitti and Spagetti threads to machine

applique my hexagons and I was really pleased with how nicely the

weight of the thread made the blanket stitches look. I’ve used that

stitch on my machine before and never really liked the result, but the

WonderFil thread makes them look ALMOST as nice as my hand blanket


Closeup of machine blanket stitch using

Fruitti thread by WonderFil.




fall 2014


Measure and trim

There are just a few more steps to do and then the sewing will be finished.

The first thing that we need to do is to measure the quilted pillow top. For

mine, the quilting has shrunk the top slightly and it is now 18½” square.

Next we need to trim the excess batting and backing from the pillow top.

Make the backing pieces

Cut the backing fabric into two rectangles 15" x width of the pillow. On

each of these rectangles fold over ½” along the long edge of one side.

Press, then fold the raw edge under the first fold and press again. Topstitch

along this edge.

Measure pillow top and trim off excess batting and lining.

Pin the backings to the pillow front

Lay pillow top on a hard surface with right side up. Place one of the backing

rectangles right side down, aligning the raw edges with the edge of

the pillow top.

Sewing the backings to the pillow front

Lay second backing on top, right side down, overlapping the two topstitched

edges and aligning the raw edges with the pillow front. Pin along

all of the raw edges. Sew ½” in along all of the edges of the pillow. Clip the

corners and then turn the pillow right side out. Press.

Fold over long edge of pillow backs and topstitch.

The finishing touch

Use the Spagetti thread to topstitch ½” in along all of the edges of the pillow.

Insert your pillow form and your pillow is complete. z

Layer the front and backs with right sides together.

Topstitch 1⁄2" from the edges of the finished pillow.

Finished edges of pillow backs are overlapped and then pinned

along all outside edges.


54 ●

.com fall 2014


Photos courtesy of Christine Baker.

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fall 2014


QUILTsocial bloggers

Jennifer Houlden

Quilts by Jen

jennifer @ quiltsbyjen.ca


Nancy Devine

Heaven is Hand Made



Christine Baker





Elaine Theriault


Jennifer runs Quilts by Jen, a fantastic educational

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the value of fabrics, pressing, building Bargello

runs, pinning, binding, sandwiching, couching,

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Nancy Devine is a devoted user and collector of

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Find more of her work and musings on her blog.

Christine has been designing and publishing

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You can see all her patterns on her website.

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when her daughter moved from a crib. The

rest is history – she now teaches several

days a week, makes quilts on commission

and quilts for others on the long-arm.





fall 2014


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staff. Cross stitch, canvaswork, needlepoint,

embroidery, counted thread, lace making and

more. Books, patterns, fabric, threads, tools.

Upper Canada Quiltworks

PO Box 64, Brockville, ON K6V 5T7

613.345.3956 Fax: 613.342.3327


Visit us online for a wide selection quilt patterns

and books. Techniques include felted wool,

fusible appliqué, punchneedle, rag quilting and

printing photos on fabric.



Mac® computer users have something to smile about with the recent release of TruEmbroidery3. This new embroidery

software is a fully featured embroidery system for use on Mac® OSX. Available in two packages you choose which level is

right for your creative needs.

With features like lace and appliqué tools - in addition to all the standard design creation tools you might need, TruE3

Create is a designer's dream. TruE3 Modify allows you the ability to edit existing embroidery designs with ease. Even

change existing cutwork designs to ones which use the Inspira Cutwork needles! Both of these modules are available in

TruEmbroidery 3 - Elite.

If you want to personalize an existing design go to TruE3 Studio which is available in both the TruEmbroidery 3 - Elite

or Elements packages. You can add text or extra embellishments with just a few clicks. There are over 145 fully adjustable

professional fonts and countless frames, flourishes and borders to pick from. Change thread colours using the Mac® colour

wheel tools or pick a specific colour from over 20,000 thread colours included.

With TruEmbroidery3 installed, use Finder to see your design before you send it to a USB stick and Spotlight will search for

designs by keywords (file names or notes). If you love your Mac® and you embroider, you can’t do without this software. Go

to www.truembroidery.com to see demos, link to the Learning Center or to locate your closest authorized retail location.

Professional Appraisal Services

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Dawn Hunt, ISA AM

Canmore, AB



Rosalie I. Tennison, ISA AM

Newmarket, ON






fall 2014


Get more quilting fun in


Visit www.ANPTmag.com to order!


Tumbling Waters











Fall 2014

L ife goes better with needlework!

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