CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CN DIGITAL STUDIO; ROGER CABELLO; JOHN MANNO; CN DIGITAL STUDIO; ROGER CABELLOlist of a few that sound intriguing.”Free apps like Givaudan’s iPerfumer orosMoz from Firmenich let you plug inyour favorite fragrances, then instantlygive you personalized suggestions forothers you might also like.Try them on for size. Start by inhalingfive or so contenders on blotting papers.“The first ten seconds are very important,”says Firmenich master perfumerOlivier Cresp. “That’s when you’ll smellthe top notes, and that will really helptell you whether you’re going to like thefragrance.” If you’re just “eh” about anyof them at this point, move on. Next,spray your favorites (but no more thanfour) on your wrists and inner elbowsto see if you like the scent on your skin.Then walk away. “A good perfume takestime to get to know, and it takes time forit to get to know you,” says Brosius.Score samples. If you can’t decide on afragrance, there’s no shame in askingfor some to take home. Many stores,such as Nordstrom and Sephora, offerfree samples of the fragrances they carryand will even create a sample if they’reout of something. Many online perfumestores offer trial sizes for a small fee thatis often then applied toward a purchase.LOVE LESSON #3:Wear It WellCreate a wardrobe. If you had to find onedress you liked enough to wear every singleday of the year, it would be an impossibletask. For that same reason, truefragrance lovers tend to have a collectionof at least five favorite scents. “Womenget caught up in the idea of having asignature fragrance, but I love having afragrance wardrobe,” says Ann Gugliottiof Blogdorf Goodman, a fragrance andbeauty blog. “Sometimes I want whisperyviolets; other times I want thickamber. The choice depends on everythingfrom mood, weather, clothing, toif I’m reading a Jane Austen novel.” Andof course, there’s another advantage tochanging things: “If you wear somethingevery day, eventually you can’t smell itanymore,” says Brosius. “That’s whythere are little old ladies you get a whiffof from three blocks away, because theystopped being able to smell their ownperfume in 1957.”Don’t make it an afterthought. Women usuallygive their (continued on page 299)All in the FamilyLast year, there were 760 new women’s scents, and that’s not counting thethousands already lining the display shelves. Where do you start? Narrow yourpreference to a single family —though be warned: The experts don’t always agree oncategorizations. If there’s a perfume you already love, it undoubtedly has variationson-a-themesiblings, cousins, and in-laws that may draw you in, too. —LINDSY VAN GELDERFreshThese are the lightest, sportiestsplashes, designed to smell likelemon slices (the citrus group),fresh herbs and mowed grass (thegreen group), or the ocean (themarine group).• IF YOU LIKE CALVIN KLEIN CK ONE:The citrus-and-green-tea scent that put cleancutunisex fragrances on the map in the ’90s.• THEN TRY DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE:Concocted to smell like the Mediterranean.ANNICK GOUTAL EAU D’HADRIEN: Analmost pure citrus and probably the mostsophisticated in its class.JO MALONE LIME BASIL & MANDARIN COLOGNE:A citrusy green unisex scent that’s like aninstant Caribbean rain forest.OrientalHeavy, sexy, spicy, and usuallywintry—with a whiff of MiddleEastern souk—these scentswere born to be dabbed on thecleavage.• IF YOU LIKE GUERLAIN SHALIMAR:Contains most of the vampy, genre-definingoriental artillery, including patchouli,sandalwood, and musk.• THEN TRY YVES SAINT LAURENT OPIUM: Anoriental carried to the incense-y ’80s max.EDITIONS DE PARFUMS FRÉDÉRIC MALLE NOIRÉPICES: More woody and less sweet thanmany of its spicy relatives.DONNA KARAN CASHMERE MIST: Lush and soft,with lily of the valley notes.BULGARI BLACK: The gritty urban cousin,it smells like a beautiful, intoxicating brewof tea, smoke, and rubber.SERGE LUTENS AMBRE SULTAN: Oftenmentioned by perfumers as their favoriteperfume, it smells like sex (no joke).FloralIn the eighteenth and nineteenthcenturies, almost all perfumes wereflorals. Like real flowers, there’s ahuge range, and they’re prone tointermarrying with other families,which is why you’ll hear about “floralgreens” and “florientals.”• IF YOU LIKE FRACAS DE ROBERT PIGUET:This has been a popular fragrance since the1940s and is rich and heady with tuberoseand jasmine.• THEN TRY CHANEL NO. 5: Perfumers mightquibble that this is not a true floral, since itincorporates the synthetic compoundsknown as aldehydes, but this icon is redolentof roses and jasmine.ESTÉE LAUDER BEAUTIFUL: Dreamy and pure, itcontains notes from more than 1,000 flowers,including rose, lily, tuberose, marigold,muguet, and jasmine.CLINIQUE HAPPY: Pink grapefruit meets orchidsand lilies in an effervescent fruity floral.TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY GIRL: Fresh andyoung, with apple blossoms and mint.DIOR MISS DIOR: The fragrance that, in 1947,launched Christian Dior as a perfumehouse as well. It is subtle and greenish.ISSEY MIYAKE L’EAU D’ISSEY: Not as lush asthe others, with sharp floral tones.GourmandPurists might scoff that thisnewish group of fragrancesdoesn’t deserve a category ofits own, but its growingpopularity speaks to the sensualconnection between smelland taste. They won’t make youlick your pulse points, but they havestrong hints of chocolate, vanilla, caramel,rum, and cotton candy.• IF YOU LIKE THIERRY MUGLER ANGEL: A bigfragrance that’s frequently called an oriental,with berry, chocolate, and vanilla notes.• THEN TRY COMPTOIR SUD PACIFIQUE VANILLEEXTREME: From a line of mostly gourmandfragrances, this one ratchets up the vanilla.BOND NO. 9 NEW HAARLEM: The headiestcoffee aroma this side of Starbucks.BY KILIAN LIAISONS DANGEUREUSES TYPICALME: Elegantly fruity, the Damascus plum isbacked up by prune and black currant.PRADA CANDY: A new arrival, bursting withcaramel and vanilla.Chypre“Chypre” means Cyprus in French,and it originally referred to theodd mix of scents of the island’svegetation: a bit of citrus, someamber, and a lot of the bitter nativemoss. People tend to love chypresfor their sensual complexity or hatethem for their mossy dankness. Newer chypresdepart from the mossiness.• IF YOU LIKE GUERLAIN MITSOUKO: Oneof the oldest chypres—it launched in 1919—and easily one of the most gorgeous,with lots of peach and rose notes on top ofthe mossy ones.• THEN TRY CHANEL 31 RUE CAMBON: Anupdated chypre that’s light, lean, and sheer,with extra patchouli and less moss.AMOUAGE JUBILATION 25: A modern chyprewith a bright bolt of citrus that still managesto please traditionalists.CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE: Anotherupdated chypre, and wildly popular, althoughpurists note that it does promiscuous leapsinto fruity, floral, and oriental territory.
BODY AND SOUL(Continued from page 147)for a few really down days, he did. “Itwas the best thing I could have done formyself,” Ricks says.Of course, Ricks was not withouther inhibitions. She recalls the first nightwith another man she became engagedto, an Argentinian named Armando. Hewas an MBA student and considerablyyounger; she met him playing tennis in theHamptons. “I wore a T-shirt to bed,” sherecalls. “The first time we were together,he took it off and said, ‘This is ridiculous,’and he kissed my scars.’ I never felt loveimmediately as I felt it for him.” They weretogether, on and off, for three years, butRicks ended the relationship in January.“He was young, he should have his ownchildren, and I couldn’t give him that.”In less than a year, Ricks will celebratefive years of being cancer-free. For a yearafter finishing chemotherapy, she wason Herceptin, a drug that interferes withHER2-receptor cells and is thought to stopthis particular form of cancer cell fromgrowing. Now she takes tamoxifen, a pillthat disrupts the effects of estrogen on thebody. Like many premenopausal womenon the drug, she continues to have her periodand none of the ill effects of estrogenreduction: Her skin is fine, and as far aslubrication and libido goes, as she says, “Iknow I sound like Rainbow Brite, but I’vehad no negative side effects down there.”Ricks has made some concessions toher cancer. She gets her blood drawnevery three months to check for cancermarkers, and she wants to have a fullbodyscan, though her oncologist doesn’tthink it’s necessary. “I still wake up in themiddle of the night,” she says. “Withoutthe distractions of my three full-timejobs—the business, the philanthropy,motherhood—the fears come back.”But right now, it’s daytime, it’s sunny,and Ricks is getting ready for a meetingat the Freeman Navigation Institute,of which she is now chairman. She isdressed in a formfitting yellow Missonioff-the-shoulder dress. Currently single,she wants women facing breast cancerto know this: “I love my breasts morethan before the reconstruction…and Iswear I’ve never felt so sexy in my life.”And that house in the Hamptons? “Itore it down,” she says. “I rebuilt everything.Now I have my dream home.” ◆BOTTLED SEDUCTION(Continued from page 263)daily spritz of perfume about as muchcare as their morning swipe of deodorant,but fragrance needs love, too. “Thinkabout what you’re going to be doingthat day and how you want to feel,” saysBrosius. “The right perfume makes a difference.”Fragrance shouldn’t be relegatedto the medicine cabinet or stuffed intoan overflowing drawer—get it out in theopen. “Seeing your favorite perfumes isfeminine and personal, and helps createa feeling of ritual,” says perfumer MandyAftel of Aftelier Perfumes. “The wholeexperience of perfume is enhanced by abeautiful bottle.”Spritz based on mood or occasion. “Iwouldn’t wear the same thing on a datethat I would to a business dinner, so I don’tchoose the same scent,” says Hennessey.“Fragrance can complement what you’rewearing—or how you’re feeling.” Whatworks for everyone can differ, but in general,citrusy and fruity fragrances are uplifting,spicy notes are energizing, and floralsare ideal if you’re feeling seductive, saysperfumer Jane Hendler, cofounder of AjnePure Botanical Academy. Says Meredith,“If I’m feeling dreamy or romantic, I’llchoose something with heliotrope, butif I need energy, I like a lot of cedar andherbs, like Le Labo Santal 33.” Fragrancealso has the ability to conjure powerfulmemories and emotions. Every year on heranniversary, Khoury wears Estée LauderPleasures, the fragrance she was developingwhen she met her husband. “It was thefirst thing he ever complimented me on,”she says. “I have such an emotional connectionto it.”Never go without. To perfume lovers,the thought of skipping scent is nearlyas unappealing as forgetting to wearshoes. “Fragrance is such an importantpart of my life, so I don’t feel fullydressed without it,” says Karen Adamsof Sniffapalooza, who carries rollerballsof her favorites in her bag. The diehardseven wear fragrance to sleep: Some switchto a sexy perfume that the husbandloves, others dab on coconut scents thatcall to mind a tropical vacation, and somesimply view the evening as an extra eighthours to spend with their favorites. “Ichoose fragrances that I want to smell allnight long,” says Meredith. “The rightperfume can lead to amazing dreams.” ◆Allure/October 2011 299