Style variantfor Waistcoat with Decorative Back InsetSelect modelOpen My Label Software and open or recreate the desired model in the model drawer.Select styleIn the style drawer, under the heading ‘Blouses’, select the Waistcoat.o Open styleo Open WaistcoatAlter style propertieso Finished length: increase by 10cmo Hip height: increase by 12cmo Waist: reduce by 4cmPattern alteration via stitch placement.Detailed instructions for this can be found in the Appendix.Waist markingMark the waistline as a reference point for the following marking lines on the back, front,and side-front sections.
Fabric requirementFabric KeyFabric, right Fabric, wrongsidesideSymbols and Markings KeyCFCBB9Lining, rightsideLining, wrongsideInterfacingCentre FrontCentre BackSheetnumberingReference points – helpin combining theindividual sheetsGrainMarkingpoints onfront sectionsMarking pointson backsectionsPleating indirection ofarrowMarking of dart ends(1cm before the dartpoint in each case)ButtonmarkingThe illustration shows one way the pattern pieces can be laid out on a folded length offabric. Since the pattern pieces are created according to your own measurements andpreferences, they may differ in size and shape from the ones shown and may require adifferent layout from the one shown.Fabric 140cm wide, approx.150cmLining 140cm wide, approx.75cmCutting outOuter fabrico 2 x fronto 2 x side-front sectiono 2 x backo 1 x back inset to fabric foldo 2 x front facingLiningo 2 x fronto 2 x backo 1 x back inset to fabric foldInterfacingo 2 x front facing
Materials and miscellaneouso 2-3 closures, depending on sizeo Interfacingo About five different-coloured fraying fabric remnants for the edge decorationPreparationLay out paper-pattern pieces on fabric as per the pattern-layout picture. After cuttingout, transfer all markings onto the fabric.Sewing instructionsPreparing the pattern piecesIron interfacing onto front facing.Making and sewing on the decorative trimMeasure total length of outside edge of waistcoat (approx. 2m depending on size).Cut bias strips of at least 7.5cm width from 4-5 different light, readily fraying fabrics.Sew together bias strips per colour so as to yield five tapes approx. 2 m in length. Pressseams apart.Stack all the bias strips together and secure them.Stitch strips, first in the centre, then 2.5cm from the centre. Cut open strip between thelines of stitching without including the bottom-most layer of fabric. Using a wire brush,first rough up the edges to create a fringe, then cut open in the middle.
Sew back sectionSew together centre-back section with right sides facing. Press seam and topstitch.Sew back inset to back section with right sides facing. Press seam apart.Place decorative trim on right side of waistcoat in the centre over the inset seam andstitch on.Sew back darts with right sides together, including the decorative trim as you do so.Press darts to the side seam and topstitch.Tip: A velvet ironing mat may be useful, depending on type of fabric used.Sew front sectionsWith right sides facing, sew together front section and side-front section. Press seamsand topstitch as wished.Side seamsClose side seams with right sides facing and press apart.LiningSew centre-back together with right sides facing. Press seam apart.Sew on back inset with right sides facing. Press seam apart.Close back darts right sides together and iron to the side seam.Sew together front sections and facing and press.With right sides facing, close front and back sections along one side seam. Closesecond side seam 5cm at both armhole and hem.Sewing together waistcoat and liningPlace waistcoat and lining right sides together and pin.Sew together back neckline, armholes and outside edge, beginning and ending 2.5cmfrom the shoulder seam in each case.Trim seams and clip in the curves.Tip: The waistcoat edges lie more nicely if the seam allowances are pressed apartbefore the sewing together and turning.
Turn waistcoat through the side-seam opening. Press all edges, basting if necessary.Place both shoulder seams of the front and back sections (outer fabric) right sidesfacing and stitch together. Press seams apart.Pull a shoulder through each side-seam opening; close shoulder seam of lining andpress apart. Now close remaining seams of armhole- and neckline edges.Pull shoulder back through opening and press shoulder.Edge-stitch side seam closed.Decorate waistcoat edgeStitch on decorative tape approx. 1cm inside the waistcoat edge.The decorative strip can also be used to trim the armholes if wished.Sew on closuresCheck or redraw closure markings.Sew on closure sections.You’ll find further detailed information in your My Label program underHelp> Sewing techniques. This option offers detailed instructions on how to sew beltloops, collars, pockets, linings (and much more) properly. In addition, the basics ofsewing techniques are dealt with for newcomers.