*ON04 FINAL-2.indd - Wavelength Paddling Magazine

Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com1

2 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com3

EditorialEditorAlan WilsonAssistant EditorDiane CoussensEditorial AssistantDiana MumfordAssociate EditorLaurie MacBrideWebmasterTed LeatherAccountantChris SherwoodDistributorsAll Sports Marketing, CTM (Toronto),DRM Mailing, Herb Clark, Rajé HarwoodAssociatesHoward Stiff, Mercia SixtaADS & SUBSCRIPTIONS1-800-799-5602SUBMISSIONS 250-247-8858info@WaveLengthMagazine.comwww.WaveLengthMagazine.comPrinted in Vancouver, British ColumbiaCorrespondence should be sent to:2735 North Road, Gabriola IslandBritish Columbia, Canada V0R 1X7WAVELENGTH is an independent magazine, publishedbimonthly and available at 500 print distribution sites(paddling shops, outdoor stores, fi tness clubs, marinas,events, etc.) in North America—and on the web to theworld. Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome.Don’t miss an issue!NORTH AMERICAN SUBSCRIPTIONS6 issues per year$15/yr or $25/2 yrs* Canadians add GSTTo subscribe: 1-800-799-5602 orsubscribe@WaveLengthMagazine.comADVERTISING RATES AND WRITERSGUIDELINES AVAILABLE ON REQUESTDEADLINE IN PRINTAUG 20 OCT 1OCT 20 DEC 1DEC 20 FEB 1FEB 20 APR 1APR 20 JUN 1JUN 20 AUG 1ISSN 1188-5432Canadian Publications Mail AgreementNo. 40010666GST# 887432276SAFE PADDLING is an individual responsibility. Werecommend that inexperienced paddlers seek expertinstruction, advice about local conditions, have all therequired gear and know how to use it. The publishers ofthis magazine and its contributors are not responsible forhow the information in these pages is used by others.Published byWave-Length Communications Inc.© 2004. Copyright is retained on all material, text andgraphics, in this magazine. No reproduction is allowedof any material in any form, print or electronic, for anypurpose, except with the expressed permission ofWave-Length Communications Inc.Printed on Ancient Rainforest-Free PaperGETAWAYS—NORTH AND SOUTHWho wouldn’t love to paddle in tropical waters if given the chance?! And whatbetter time of year to go than when the weather at home is dark, wet and cold?So as usual each fall, we invite you to feed your winter getaway fantasies—this yearwith stories of lesser known spots in the South Pacific, Southeast Asia, the Caribbeanand Mexico. And we hope some of you manage to translate your fantasies into reality.After all, there’s really nothing quite like tropical paddling.But if, for whatever reason, you’re not going to be traveling overseas this year, and youstill want some sort of a winter paddling holiday, there are options closer to home.Autumn tends to be viewed as the end of the paddling season and the beginning ofwinter sports, but in the sheltered waters of the Pacific Northwest (Puget Sound andStrait of Georgia), there are good paddling days all year long.The weather tends to come in waves, with stretches of good and poor. So the secretis very simple: go when it’s good—and don’t when it isn’t.You also don’t have to camp in the off-season, especially not in the winter. Thereare waterfront B&Bs and resorts on all the islands (some even offer kayaks and guidingservices). If the weather isn’t cooperative, you can just hang out in a hot tub.Another secret: these waters are practically empty of boaters in the off-season, sowhen it’s calm, the water assumes its ancient, mirror face.Day paddling on calm winter days can be truly sublime, especially in the warmestpart of the day. But don’t forget that off-season paddling requires all-weather clothing,good safety gear, etc. And be sure to check the weather forecast. The key is not to tryto go too far or take risks.Whatever paddling you’re thinking about this winter—southern or northern—weencourage you to check out the various ads in this issue for a lot more informationon the options. If you download the on-line PDF of the magazine (www.WaveLength-Magazine.com), you can click on any of the ads and go directly to websites repletewith gorgeous photos of what’s on offer, information, maps, etc.You can also click on our special on-line ‘Winter Getaways Directory’ at our homepage. It’s a great resource for planning your holiday—whether north or south.Happy paddling—all year long.Alan WilsonNote: We urge all US citizens, whether you live in the US or abroad, to make sure youregister to vote, then get out to vote for the Environment. Remember, the entire worldwill be affected by the outcome, so in one of the most important elections ever, you’llbe speaking for the rest of us who don’t have a say—and wish we could.Volume 14 Number 3INSIDEWaveLength is a member of the Trade Association of Paddlesports www.gopaddle.org 360-352-07645 Paddling the Other Side of the WorldAARON REEDY7 Paddling Tenacatita BayTONY SHERIDAN10 Kiwi KayakingBARB ROY13 The Wilderness of Bustard HeadSTEPHANIE JACKSON15 Kayaking the Dominican RepublicBARBARA GAIL S. WARDEN18 X-Sitement in ThailandROD TAIT20 Tropical Wildlife WatchingBRYAN NICHOLS—COLUMN22 Paddling the Virgin IslandsELLE ANDRA-WARNER26 Dear Simone, I know we talked...MARIKA WILSON—COLUMNCOVER PHOTO: Rochelle in Baja28 Off-Season: Nootka and KyuquotCRISTINA LEPORE29 Pirates PaddleALAN WILSON—COLUMN32 A Cozy Winter RetreatDAN LEWIS—COLUMN34 Necky Chatham/Holey SolesALEX MATTHEWS—COLUMN35 Foiled FishROSELLA STOESZ & DEB LEACH—COLUMN36 Books & VideosDIANA MUMFORD—COLUMN38 Great Gear & Kayaks39 News44 Unclassifi edsby Alex MatthewsAlexandra Morton will be back next issue.Bringing people to paddling since 19914 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

Paddling the Other Side of the WorldThe boy watching me affix my sprayskirt to my cockpit can hardly believehis eyes. Not many outsiders passthrough this village and even fewer pullkayaks out of oversized backpacks. Heand his small gang of friends have stoodcompletely awestruck for the entire hourit has taken me and my wife, Sarah, toassemble our Feathercraft kayaks andload them with the gear for our 3-daypaddle. Now, as we launch into the sparklingwater, the boy is spellbound. So am I.Our kayaks are loaded with gear andwe are paddling in paradise. Beneathmy boat the water is so clear that it inducesvertigo looking through it to thesandy bottom 15 meters below. Ourkayaks are flying rather than floating.Undine Bay is teeming with dolphins,giant sea turtles, and tropical fish of everystripe and color. Small schools of metallicBlue Sprat leap towards the boat. It feels likea welcoming gesture. In the distance, thelush hills of the volcanically formed islandsrise sharply towards a wide open sky. Coconutpalms dot the shores. The wholescene is framed by powder-fine, whitesand beaches. You couldn’t paint a picturethis pretty. You can, however, paddle it.Vanuatu sits quietly in the South Pacific,2400 kilometers east of NorthernAustralia. Its capital, Port Vila, receivesregular flights from several cities in Australiaand New Zealand. But until the Americanreality TV show Survivor decided that itwould be a great place to film, you hadprobably never heard of Vanuatu. Becauseof that, Vanuatu doesn’t attract the hordesof tourists that neighboring Fiji does. Whatthe crowds don’t know is that this islandnation has alluring beaches that rival thoseof its better-known Melanesian neighbor.For independent and skilled paddlersthere are almost endless paddling optionsamong Vanuatu’s 83 inhabited islands.It is possible for even novice paddlersto have a first rate kayaking adventurerelatively easily from the main island ofEfate. Although the waters of the SouthSeas islands can be notoriously rough andwindy, North Efate’s Undine Bay and HavannahHarbor are reasonably sheltered.Sarah and I have come to Undine Bay,on the north side of the island, oppositePort Vila, in the back of an open markettruck. This is the cheapest way to get outof town with a folding kayak. Markettrucks leave for North Efate daily fromdowntown Port Vila. If you don’t mindriding with mounds of unsold produceSarah paddling in the warm shallows.and sometimes irritable livestock, thetruck ride can be an adventure all its own.On our first day we put in on a late afternoonhigh tide and paddle only a shortsix kilometers to nearby Pele Island. Thereception we get from the villagers there iswarm and welcoming. They are extremelyinterested in our boats and are quick toinvite us to make camp on their beach.This becomes a common theme at everyvillage where we land. Through theseencounters we get a glimpse of the simpleisland life. Most islanders make their livingby subsistence farming and fishing,Story andphotos byAaron Reedyas they have since their ancestors arrivedin sailing canoes during the great Pacificmigrations 3,000 years ago. They live insmall villages and still build houses of bambooand thatch. In most places the wordof local chiefs is still the law of the land.As the sun sinks lower on the horizon,we stop in at the northernmost village onPele. A local chief announces his title andpromptly shows us to a beautiful sandypoint on the north of the island just acrossthe channel from neighboring Nguna Island—perfectfor making camp. The Melanesiansare famous for their hospitality. ➝Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com5

Our boats having a siesta.While washing the dinner dishes in the surf, we are approachedby a quiet local boy in his late teens. He shyly introduces himselfas Kennedy. We ask him about snorkeling spots and he points out atthe water and gives descriptions of sections of the reef as if I couldclearly see them. He proudly tells me about his work with the twoyear old Nguna-Pele Marine Protected Area. It is home to a pristinereef and a giant clam sanctuary. Its biggest draw, however, is that thechannel between Nguna and Pele is frequently traveled by dolphinsand, on occasion, by humpback whales. Kennedy tells me that thedolphins usually move through here in the mornings.His knowledge of marine mammals proves to be accurate; thenext morning a large pod of Pacific Spinner dolphins gathers just beyondthe fringing reef. Their dorsal fins and acrobatic games are visibleall morning as we cook pancakes on the beach. They even stayaround long enoughfor me to launch mykayak. I am mesmerizedas they comeup around me, andthe sound of theirbreathing surroundsme until they eventuallyvanish.Traveling northalong the west coast of Nguna Island, I am continually awed withthe tropical landscape of water and islands. At one point I am ableto count six islands visible in the panorama. It is a spectacularbeauty that is not seen by many outsiders. I feel lucky to be in onthe secret.As we paddle back over the coastal reef to mainland Efate weapproach three boys in a dugout canoe. They are immediatelycurious. Our kayaks are different from the small wooden outriggerswith which they are so familiar. They are especially interested inthe rudder. They aren’t quite sure of its purpose until I move it sideto side by pushing on the foot pedals. At that moment one boyexclaims in Bislama, Vanuatu’s national language, that it works“olsem tel blong fis” (like a fish’s tail). I am struck by his comparison.There still are places in the world where young boys aremore familiar with the mechanics of a fish than those of a rudder.I am spellbound by the idyllic splendor of these islands. Theyare the absolute picture of paddling paradise. After a few days inthese warm and friendly waters I am convinced that there is nobetter way to explore this archipelago than by kayak. The openseas here are challenging,but the offshore islandsof North Efate offerrelative protection andas a result, these islandswelcome paddlers of anyAustraliaVanuatuPaddling is a way of life in Vanuatu.skill level. The paddlingalone is worth the trip. Yetbeyond the paddling, it isthe people and their wayof life that make this littlecorner of the globe unlikeanywhere else on earth. ❏© Aaron Reedy is a US Peace Corps Volunteer and has beenliving and working in Vanuatu since October 2001.NATURAL HIGHNEW ZEALANDSeakayak & Cycle Tours & Rentalswww.SeakayakNewZealand.comwww.CycleNewZealand.comadventure@natural-high.co.nz64-3-546693664-3-5466954 fax6 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

Paddling Tenacatita Baywalk along La Manzanilla’s hot, dustyI main street that runs behind a mix ofpalapa restaurants, stores, a few gringohouses and vacant lots overgrown withweeds and plastic. At the end of the street,a few meters beyond the pool hall thumpingwith Mexican rock music, a wooden fenceoverlooks a muddy lagoon. The hoodedeyes of a giant crocodile glower menacinglyup at me. I shudder. Is this kayakingterritory? With a sudden swoosh of his tail,the croc swims away to where several of hismates are basking in the sun. The fencedlagoon is a protected haven for crocodiles.A path leads from the lagoon onto thebeach. A hundred or so meters further on,a rack of yellow kayaks stand beside a hutmade of palm fronds. This is ImmersionAdventures.“Is it safe to paddle around here?” I askthe proprietor, Dave Collins.“The crocs stay in their lagoon,” he assuresme. “I’ve been kayaking here for fouryears. It’s safe.”We get to talking and Dave tells mehe started whitewater kayaking in Wyomingwhen he was twenty. After acouple of seasons of competitive freestyle,he took up guiding in YellowstonePark, then after finishing university inMexico, he started Immersion Adventures.His passion is guiding students onweek-long ecological study trips, but hisbread and butter is day tours and rentals.The next morning I rent a kayakfrom Dave to check out the rockyshore along the south side of the bay.Launching off the beach between waves,I’m soon gliding over clear water, likegently undulating glass sparkling in themorning sun. I find the sit-on-top kayakstable and relatively manoeuvrable andsoon slip into an easy paddling rhythm,serenaded by the rippling bow wave.In the distance, some porpoises breachbut disappear. Two blue footed boobiesstanding on a rocky outcrop gaze aroundnonchalantly as I paddle past them towardsthe towering cliffs, alive with seabirds. Agentle onshore breeze ripples the still water.I cruise into a small bay with a few beachumbrellas in front of towering palms. It’s a$400 per night gated resort with a manicuredgolf course abutting the beach. Notwanting to go where I’m not welcome, Ipaddle out towards the headland, where thePacific swells turn into raging white foamas they crash onto jagged cliffs. I weavemy way through a myriad of rocky islets,revelling in the drama of sea meeting land. ➝Heading to the entrance to the mangrove swamps.Story and photos by Tony SheridanEverything you need forSea Kayaking in Bajawww.villasdeloreto.com011-52-613-135-0586Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com7

I want to stay longer, but the afternoon thermal breeze is buildingand I turn for home before the sea becomes rough. In the distance,the village of La Manzanilla lies nestled into the hills at the southend of the beach. At the north end is an RV park. In between is afive kilometer stretch of almost deserted beach backed by swayingpalm trees. As I near the beach, it seems as if I’m under attack aspelicans dive out of the sky to feast on a shoal of fish beneath me.A couple of days later I join a group of five others for a tour withDave through the mangroves. Dave and his assistant Paco load thekayaks onto a trailer then drive us out to Tenacatita beach at thenorth-western tip of the bay. After launching, we paddle past a sleekhundred-foot yacht, our images dancing on her polished blue hull.“Did you see the whales?” asks one of the crew, pointing to thehorizon. We didn’t. Sometimes it pays to be higher off the water.We pass by red sandstone cliffs to a small cove where DaveDave Collins and the author’s wife Stephanie don wetsuitsto go snorkeling.Adventures in the Kingdom of TongaWhaleDiscoveriesKayak the Vava’u and Ha’apai Islands. Experience Polynesianculture, natural history, exquisite snorkelling, idyllic beachcamps & fine cuisine. Whale watch aboard MV Tropic Bird!www.fikco.com • www.whalediscoveries.comguides us ashore amid white foam swirling on the rocks. Hespreads out a mid-morning snack on a small beach while Pacoexplains that the base of coral reefs, formed when the oceancovered the isthmus that is now Central America, is the sameas in the Atlantic. The coral that grew later is unique to the Pacific.We don snorkle gear to check out what we’ve learned.After a half hour swim, we resume paddling, rounding a pointinto a bay that is an anchorage for about thirty cruising yachtsand the entrance to the mangroves. The tide is ebbing so we haveto carry our kayaks through the shallow delta to where the waterdeepens. Faced with a one to two knot adverse current in the twentymeter-wide waterway, we paddle hard. Gradually the mangrovesLogo Design Final 1close in on us and we paddle through shadowy tunnels well oversix meters high, our blades grazing the myriad tentacle-like roots.Suddenly we burst into bright sunlight and open water. We havecome full circle. The mangroves have wound their way behindthe hills and we are in a lagoon, with no crocs, directly behindthe beach from which we left. Before Dave drives us back to LaManzanilla, we sit around a table in a beach restaurant with jugsof fresh lemonade, eating fish rolls (a local delicacy made of anassortment of seafood wrapped in a tortilla and bacon) and reminisceabout our day.IF YOU GOThe village of La Manzinilla is a forty-five minute taxi ride($45US) north from Manzanillo International Airport (there are nobuses from the airport), or a three and a half hour bus ride southfrom Puerto Vallarta. Accommodation in the village ranges from ➝We know Baja like no one else!Twenty years offering small groups great trips.Paddling South 800 398-6200TourBaja.cominfo@tourbaja.com8 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

MEXICOLa Manzanilla(Tenacatita Bay)$500US per week (2003-04 prices) fora luxury one bedroom apartment on thebeach, to just a few dollars to camp underthe palm trees adjacent to the village. Formore information on La Manzanilla, checkwww.costalegra.ca/la_manzanilla.htmDay tours with Immersion Adventuresrange from $65US to $110US. Rentinga single kayak costs $30US a day or$150US a week. For more information,check www.immersionadventures.com. ❏MULTIDAYADVENTURESSINCE 1994Belize, Cuba, Costa Rica, Panama1-800-781-2269Cabo San Lucas• Mazatlan© Tony Sheridan is a freelance writer who livesin Victoria where he can always be near thesea, if not always paddling or sailing.info@seakunga.comwww.seakunga.comPuerto Vallarta •(airport)La Manzanilla •Manzanillo •(airport)Check out our onlineWinterGetawaysDirectoryTO THE SOUTHFlorida, Cuba, Mexico,Belize, Honduras, CostaRica, Panama, Hawaii,New Zealand, Fiji, Tonga,Thailand, Vietnam,Myanmar, Philippines,and more...TO THE NORTHBritish ColumbiaWashington StateJust CLICK on theDIRECTORY atWaveLengthMagazine.comBAJA MEXICO KAYAK TOURSBAJA MEXICO KAYAK TOURSTHREE ROUTES:• Islands• South Islands• Coastal• 7 days from LoretoCdn$795—US$650• 6 daysCdn$735—US$595LOW COST, SELF-CATERED, 17 YEARS IN BUSINESS• 10 days, Loreto to La PazCdn$1095—US$795ExperienceBaja!See itineraries at www.gck.caA D V E N T U R EO U T F I T T E R SAlso 2–9 day summer trips to:• Johnstone Strait/Knight Inlet• Queen Charlottes• Clayoquot Sound• Nootka Island• Broken Group• or Gulf Islands Weekendsinfo@gck.cawww.gck.ca910 Clarendon Rd., Gabriola Island, BC CANADA V0R 1X1PH: 250-247-8277 FAX: 250-247-9788Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com9

Kiwi KayakingTUTUKAKA COASTAfter loading lunch, snorkeling gear,camera accessories and other survivalessentials into a sleek two-personsea kayak, my guide Kea and I bid stableground farewell. I took the front seat inorder to acquire some good shots alongthe northeastern side of New Zealand’sNorth Island. My camera was held onmy lap for easy access, safe in a dry-bag.“All set up there?” asked Kea, whowas on loan from Paradise CoastKayaking, a local outfit offering dailyor multi-day kayaking excursions.Kea certainly wasn’t lacking confidenceand was fueled by a great enthusiasm.As we went, he explained about NewZealand’s colorful past, its marine reserves,and the country’s plans to keep wildlifeparks pristine. Enthralled by the narrative,I was equally in awe of the scenery. Weglided past numerous species of shorebirds, over countless beds of kelp withoverlapping fronds and through cave-likeformations eroded into an outstretchedshoreline. Steep, jagged cliffs and ancientlava flows, now softened by time, laybefore us. I found it amazing that a pastest.1985SEA KAYAK➝COSTA RICA18 th year in paradise!Osa PeninsulaRemote rainforest paddlingin comfort. Small groups.Weekly departures Dec–Apr.Also, the sunny Gulf Islands ofBritish Columbia all year!END OF SEASON SALENeckyNimbusSeawardCurrent Designs250-539-2442www.seakayak.cakayak@gulfislands.comDaily Guided ToursWESTPEAKINNSea kayak trips amid tropicalcoral reefs & white sand beachesof a Caribbean wilderness isle.Tel: 831-786-0406wpi@vena.comwww.westpeakinn.comStory and photos by Barb RoyKea prepares to start “Tea” (our snack) at North Gable on the North Island.of such turmoil could now produce somuch relaxation and tranquility. Otherplaces were thick with native trees orlush in valleys of rolling green meadows.“Ready for some whitewater?” askedKea as we cleared the protection of anotherbay. The ocean swells became morepronounced as they rolled over shallowreefs, producing pools of swirling, foamy,whitewater.A curious seal popped its head up fora closer look. Before long, two moreheads were up. What I wouldn’t giveto be in the water with them, I thought,peering down into the clear depths.A vivid selection of invertebrate lifedecorated the reef below, intertwinedwith multi-colored varieties of sponge.Landing, we hiked a trail up KukutauwhaoIsland for a spectacular viewof the surrounding area, had lunch on asecluded sandy beach and I was able tophotograph the wildlife. Later in the day,Shane Orchard, the owner of the companyand a marine biologist, joined us. Together,the three of us checked out a calm estuarywhere the water was pea-green andlined with a profusion of foliage and trees.The next day we visited the Poor Knights,volcanic islands situated some 24 kilometersoffshore, transporting the kayaksout and back by boat from Tutukaka. Thewater temperature was 21 degrees Celsiusand the weather sunny (this was March).Protected by Marine Reserve status, thewaters below are nourished by subtropicalcurrents, attracting an assortment of fish,eels, rays, soft corals, nudibranchs andsponges, drawing divers from around theworld to visit the islands. The local Ngatiwaipeople have worked with the Departmentof Conservation to manage the islandsand marine reserve, ensuring the environ-10 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

ment will remain unspoiled.Access to the islands is restricted.Several rare and exclusive islandresidents include the redcrownedparakeet, the tuatara(ancient reptile), and the giantwetas (looks like a grasshopper).BAY OF ISLANDSPaihia was my next destinationand gateway to the Bay of Islands.The town itself was boomingwith tourism activity. I foundkayaks readily available alongthe main beach and a selectionof tasty seafood restaurants. Aftera full day of kayaking throughoutthe islands (quite similar to theGulf Islands), I attended a soundand light cultural show. A cast ofyoung Maori students performedthe Treaty of Waitangi, tellingthe story of New Zealand’sdiscovery.PICTONI arrived in Picton on the SouthIsland just in time for a twilightpaddle with MarlboroughSounds Adventure Company.Leaving the harbor, we paddledout into Queen Charlotte Sound View from Kukutauwhao on the North Island.and headed towards an island tosee if we could catch a glimpseof the blue penguin colony coming out of the water and returningto land for the evening. A golden hue highlighted the shore as wewent. Mountains towered all around, outlining the Sound.Patiently we waited near an exit area for the tiny penguins.The sun was almost down, urging a hasty retreat. Just as I put mycamera away, I saw the first head appear. Then another, and another.Scurrying up the bank like little toy soldiers they went.tropical water. Sound familiar?After snorkeling with a playfulcolony of sea lions, and havingwild dolphins come to checkout the group of us, I decided Iwould have to return to Kaikourafor more on a future trip.Birding, caving, diving, kayaking,wildlife watching: NewZealand has it all. I have neverexperienced so many marineencounters in one place. Kayaksare easy to rent, as was divingequipment. For tours, most of theoperations provided everythingneeded.GETTING THEREAir New Zealand flies nonstopinto Auckland (North Island)and from Sidney in Australia,www.airnewzealand.com.I found Air New Zealand’sBusiness Class service enjoyable,especially during a 12-hour flight. www.newzealand.com and www.tourisminfo.govt.nz are great sites for moreinformation.The water is safe to drink,people are extremely friendlyand helpful, and the value ofNew Zealand dollar is similar ➝KAIKOURAKaikoura, on the northeastern side of the South Island, was myfinal site of exploration in this amazing country. Several miles offshoreon a charter boat, I photographed an albatross, the world’slargest seabird (page 12). This mighty giant looked like an overgrownseagull, and I noticed it had to fold its wings in a specialway to tuck them in.Sperm whales were next. The charter boat stayed a respectfuldistance while visitors photographed the young males asthey rested on the surface before a dive to deep canyons severalhundred meters down. It turns out the females prefer the warmerCall us now toregister for yourFREE BROCHUREGuided multi activity adventures—hike, bike & kayak in New Zealandwith the experts800-661-9073www.activenewzealand.com/waveOct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com11

to the Canadian dollar. Their seasons areopposite of ours, and the two main islandsare very different.Bay of IslandsTutukaka CoastCONTACTS• Dive Tutukakawww.diving.co.nz, 0800 288 882• Paradise Coast Kayaking Co.0800 2 PARADISEwww.nzseakayaking.co.nzinfo@nzseakayaking.co.nz• Dolphin Encounter Kaikouriwww.dolphin.co.nz, 03 319 6777Auckland •Picton• WellingtonKaikouraLuxury accommodationand gourmet meals afloatat Hotsprings CoveClayoquot Sound, BC.An albatross off the coast ofKaikoura on the South Island.NEW ZEALANDwww.innchanter.com250-670-1149• Marlborough Sounds Adventure Co.0800 283 283www.marlboroughsounds.co.nzadventure@marlboroughsounds.co.nz• Whale Watch Kaikoura: 03 319 5509• Tourism NZ: www.tourisminfo,govt.nz• Air NZ: www.airnewzealand.com• Active New Zealand: 800-661-9073www.activenewzealand.com/wave• Southern Exposure (Abel Tasman Park)info@southern-exposure.co.nzwww.southern-exposure.co.nz• Natural High Seakayak & Cyclewww.SeakayakNewZealand.comwww.CycleNewZealand.comadventure@natural-high.co.nz64-3-5466936 ❏© Barb Roy is a frequent contributorto WaveLength who lives in Surrey, BC.SATURNA LODGEis an elegant yet casual country innwith individually appointed roomsfeaturing water and garden views,private decks and ensuite baths, aswell as a superb restaurant, spaciousdeck overlooking Boot Cove, loungeand private dining or conference area,with fireplace, sofas and satellite TV.Open mid-March to December 31st1-888-539-8800innkeeper@saturna.cawww.saturna.ca12 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

The Wilderness of Bustard HeadPaddle along any river, lake, or meanderingstream and you’re sure to seegreat scenery and perhaps some interestingwildlife. And with a dash of luck youmight find an idyllic place to camp, or asecluded beach or a cave to explore. Butat Bustard Head, near the Queenslandtown with the curious name of ‘1770’,there is a sub-tropical wilderness that hasall of nature’s most glorious characteristics.Explorer Captain James Cook, takinghis first steps on the soil of what is nowthe state of Queensland, was the first Europeanto explore an area that, in manyrespects, has seen little change since hisarrival in 1770—the year that is now commemoratedby the town’s unusual name.With its vast forested national parks populatedby kangaroos, dingoes and emus,and with access to both the calm waters ofa wide creek and the wild Pacific Ocean,the region is a haven for bird life. And withdolphins, gigantic turtles, stingrays andlarge shoals of other fish easily spottedfrom a kayak or canoe, there can be fewmore stunning destinations for a paddlerwith an appreciation of the natural world.Although Bustard Head—a forestedoutcrop of land that at high tide becomesan island—is only 12 nautical miles fromthe town of 1770, it seems a million milesfrom human existence. There is no accessby road, and access from the sea ishazardous due to treacherous tides andsandbars. With only one tour operator inthe area, a paddler is almost guaranteedto be the region’s sole human visitor.Secluded sandy bays await rare visitors.Although it may resemble paradise, thisplace has hidden demons. Sharks may lurkin the inviting waters of Jenny Lind Creekthat wraps itself around the headland.Venomous stone fish may be camouflagedamong fringing rocks, and strong tides mayattempt to drag unwary paddlers out to sea.But the welcoming green and gold complexionof this vast wilderness where forests,waterways, beaches, and ocean merge,ensures that thoughts of danger are fleeting.Birds congest the forested headlandand the tangled mass of low shrubs thatcower before the ocean’s winds on BustardHead’s eastern face. Beyond, a steep trailslices across windswept grasslands freckledwith golden daisies. Forests sprawl up tothe summit to envelop the 19th centuryStory and photos byStephanie Jacksonlighthouse and graves of those whose liveswere claimed by this rugged wilderness.Patience may be required to see thebirds of the forest, but the inhabitantsof Jenny Lind Creek are less reluctant toshow themselves. Large shoals of fish rushthrough water so clear that on a still dayit seems you are skimming across the surfaceof some great aquarium. Striped fish,silver fish, sting rays that fly through thewater like graceful airborne kites, giganticturtles in their flowing robes of greenalgae, and sedentary sea cucumbers areall conspicuous residents of the wide andwinding waterway fringed with mangroves.Sheltered by the headland, the creek isa place of silence, where curlews probeexposed sandbars for tiny crustaceans, ➝Experience Island TranquilityFully furnishedoceanfrontcondos nearNanaimo BC.Weekly-monthlyoccupancy.INN OF THE SEA VACATIONSwww.innof theseavacations.com1-877-384-3456Some of thebest kayakingin BC.Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com13

View from the top of the headland, showing inner and outer paddling options.sea eagles soar overhead, cormorants dive, and egrets, crestedterns, red-capped plovers and oystercatchers march throughthe shallows as swarms of blue soldier crabs scurry for safety.The headland can be circumnavigated by paddling up thecreek, through a narrow, almost hidden channel slicing throughthe mangrove forest, into a wide bay, and out to the oceanside of the headland to the wild side of Bustard Head. Herethe ocean roars into eroded caves and secluded sandy bayshuddled among boulders decorated with pandanus palms, andit threatens to claim any inexperienced paddler as the victim ofanother “shipwreck” to add to those she has already claimed.Struggling to negotiate the maze of rocks and wild seas,we finally paddle through the estuary to the tranquility of thecreek and return to our campsite. Meanwhile, dolphins danceamong white ripples on the sapphire ocean; terns sway tothe hypnotic rhythm of waves; and pelicans drift silently past.Here, wild water and calm, an abundance of wildlife, stunningscenery, and a hefty serving of solitude all combine to create agreat paddling opportunity which is just waiting for your personaldiscovery. ❏© Stephanie Jackson is a freelance journalist and travel writer,and a regular contributor to several Australian publications.Take a tour of her photographs at www.photographsofaustralia.com.Bustard Head• BrisbaneGUIDED KAYAK TOURS • BIRDINGKAYAK & CANOE SALES & RENTALSBICYCLE SALES & SERVICE14 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

Kayaking the Dominican RepublicFor even the savviest adventurers, thenorth coast of the Dominican Republicis still a relatively unknown quantity.But rocky coastline, whitewater rapids,and friendly locals in thatched-roof hutsmake the Dominican Republic a paddler’sdelight—and since recent flood damagedropped the peso to an all-time low,it’s a budget traveler’s delight as well.Sailing down to the Dominican Republicin an antique ketch, my boyfriendand I acquire two inexpensive, usedkayaks, more or less on a whim. Relativenovices, we buy them for fun and goodexercise. As it turns out, thanks to theimpulse buy, we end up kayak-campingmuch of the north coast of the country.Photos and story byBarbara Gail S. WardenCRUISING THE COVESWe venture out from Luperon, a small villagebest known as a haven for long-rangesailboaters from the US and Canada, andspend a day exploring the rocky shoresand coves of the natural harbors of PuertoBlanca. Paddling lazily along the shelteredmangroves, cliffs and tiny secluded beaches,every minute brings another perfect spotfor a picnic, rock climbing, or late afternoonfishing (always good for entertainment inthe kayak, especially when you hook abig one). On a beach just big enough tohold us, the kayaks, and a campfire, wedine luxuriously on fresh-caught broiledsnapper, then gentle waves lull us to sleepunder brilliant, far-from-the-lights-of-civilizationstars.The author’s mothership ketch at anchor in the Dominican Republic.strong paddling take us safely to the leeof Puerto Isabella—the site of Columbus’sfirst settlement in the New World—beforethe wind begins howling outside our ➝TO PUERTO ISABELLAAt dawn the next morning, we’re upand re-packing the kayaks to avoid theformidable afternoon winds along thecoast (most days, a deafening and hairtangling20-30 miles an hour). As the sun’sfirst rays touch our backs, a few hours ofVictoria: 250 383-2100Nanaimo: 250 729-9500Kelowna: 250 762-2110TOLL FREE 1-800-667-1032Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com15

esorts. We wander though the village,stopping for fresh chinola juice. Therewe meet Juan, a tiny, ancient man with aseamed, leathery face brown as a nut. Juanoffers us horses at 100 pesos a day. That’saround three dollars. At hotels, a ride canbe as little as twenty dollars, so this is ano-brainer. We canter along the beach,surf splashing around us, hair blowing inthe wind. Then up the ubiquitous windingdirt roads, where we pass men on burroswith fresh-cut sugar cane, and women withenormous bowls of fruit on their heads.The author’s sit-on-top brought a whole new realm to her boating experience.new shelter. Our ride-on-top kayaks, sosoothing in calm waters, are squirrellyin the waves, rolling and twisting as wetraverse the surf along the exposed coast.In Puerto Isabella, Columbus built tinyhouses (the foundations remain) for his mento live in while he sailed back to Spain foradditional funds. During his absence, thesailors managed to accomplish what centuriesof effort had failed to achieve: unitingthe warring tribes of the island. The Spanishmen treated the natives so brutally thatthe enemy tribes joined forces, attackedthe settlement, and massacred every one.HORSES ON THE BEACHOver the next few days we make it toPunta Rusia, a stunning coastal area filledwith beaches and coves where a localvillage sits cheek-by-jowl with upscaleWHITEWATERWe also take a quick trip by guagua (localvans that carry passengers and chickensfor $1-2 each—if inclined, you can go allover the country this way) into the interiorof the country for whitewater kayaking inJarabacoa. Here we choose from Class II-IIIrapids or III-IV. We pick the Rio Yaque, thelongest river in the Caribbean, which offersboth challenges and easy stretches. Whenwe confess to only one whitewater kayaktrip in our pasts, they provide a quickrefresher and we’re off. We have a feelingthings would be less casual elsewhere. It’sa great and terrifying time getting throughcute features like ‘Mike Tyson’, a 12-footvertical drop, where we both end uphanging head down in the pool below thewaterfall and have to be rescued by ourguide. We bounce off boulders in ‘TheCemetery’, a stretch of rocks sticking uplike tombstones, and gratefully reach somemeandering curves of calmer water foreasy drifting. Fortunately November isn’tfull rainy season, or we’d really have beensurprised.2004 RENTAL FLEET ON SALE NOW16 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

FloridaCubaSantoDomingoEditor’s Note: In a few of the ‘southern waters’ photos and ads in thisissue, paddlers are not wearing lifejackets. Clearly, warmer water lessensthe risks to some degree. Nevertheless, wearing a lifejacket is the firststep in taking responsibility for one’s own safety and we urge you towear one at all times.DominicanRepublicThis is as far as we make it, but in Jarabacoa, you can also signup for waterfall-climbing (complete with guide, wetsuit, harnessand lines and lessons for hauling yourself up against the currentand rappelling back down), and mountain climbing nearby PicoDuarte, the second highest mountain in the Caribbean. So we’llbe back next year.With service from major airlines—United, USAir, Jet-Blue—the Dominican Republic is just a few hours fromNorth America, and with a smattering of Spanish (or agood phrase book), it can offer the adventure of a lifetime.RESOURCESwww.dominicanrepublic.comwww.thedominicanrepublic.netADVENTURES• Rancho Baiguate: 809-574-4940, kayaking or rafting $95/day,waterfall $65/day, mountain trek $400/person for three days (alsooffers pleasant rooms for $35/night)• Franz Lang Adventures: 809-574-2669, kayaking $65/day, waterfall$45/day, mountain trek $300/person for three days• Colonial Tour Rafting: 809-688-5285, rafting $95/day, waterfall$45/day• Iguana Mama: 809-571-0908, kayaking or rafting $85/day,waterfall $55/day. ❏© Barbara Gail S. Warden is a US freelance writer who is on asailing adventure in the Caribbean with her partner.Enjoy FallPaddling!We have a greatselection of Neckymodels in the mostpopular colors!Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com17

X-Sitement in ThailandWe were three weeks into our threemonthbackpacking adventurein south-east Asia, which would see ustravel through Thailand, Malaysia, Borneo,then north through Laos, Viet Namand back to Thailand via Cambodia.After spending one week on busy KoPha-Ngan in the Gulf of Thailand (Komeans island in Thai), my wife Jo-Annand I were looking for an opportunity torelax in an isolated spot and enjoy somepaddling.We’d heard about Hat Jao Mai (City ofWaves), a relatively undiscovered jewelon the southwestern coast of Thailand.With limited services and only two optionsfor accommodations, the town’smain industries are commercial fishing,diving expeditions and island hopping.We decided to make our way there onour own rather than booking through atour, hoping for some solitude.We caught the train in Surat Thani, onthe west coast of Thailand and took itto the end of the line—the small fishingvillage of Katang. From the train stationit was a short walk in the midday heatthrough town, where staff at a bank kindly directed us to the smallriver ferry. On the other side of the river we ate a simple lunch at aOn Lao Liang, an island in the Andaman Sea.Photos and story by Rod Taitroadside stall while we waited for twohours for the local mini-bus to take usto Hat Jao Mai—gateway to Hat JaoMai National Park and hundreds ofpristine islands in the Andaman Sea.A newly formed company, X-site Divinghad recently been granted access toone of the islands for tourism purposeson the proviso that there be no environmentalimpact. They transported us tothe small island of Lao Liang, some 30kms from Hat Jao Mai, where we wereassigned our tent on the beach, a lavishtwo room abode complete with electricityfrom a generator. It was Thailand’sversion of an all-inclusive Club Med,but without all the frills.All the water was bottled or wasrainwater collected from high atop thelimestone cliffs. Structures on the islandwere temporary and everything had tobe brought in by boat and replenishedweekly. But that did not prevent thechefs from preparing exquisite mealsfresh from the sea. And since the companywas new, the patrons were mostlylocals looking for a two to three dayget-away, so being the only foreigners on the island meant we weretreated like royalty by the hospitable staff.www.automarine.cainfo@automarine.caAverage time of assembly18 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

Limestone islets in crystal clear water.During our three nights and four days,we snorkeled, ate a lot, relaxed in ourhammocks and for one full day we signedourselves up to do a kayak trip around afew of the islands. From the comfort of oursit-on-top double we explored several of thelimestone islets that rise majestically fromthe crystal clear, azure sea.Cliffs rise straight from the depths withlittle or no vegetation except on the verytop. These islands are famous for the birdnests used in Chinese cuisine, as evidencedby the long ropes hanging from the cliffs;harvesting had gone on for years before thebirds and their nests became protected. Thearea is also home to the rare and endangeredblack-necked stork and the sea cowor manatee. Surprisingly, there were veryfew waterfowl present. Most of the life inand around the islands is found beneath thewater’s surface, so we snorkeled directlyfrom our kayak. Jo-Ann was particularlyexcited to see many of the fish that werefeatured in the movie Finding Nemo includingNemo himself. The local name forNemo is ‘cartoon fish’.Although the islands are protected,there are squatters who make a meagerexistence by shellfish harvesting. The crab,shrimp, snails and clams mostly find theirway to the restaurant tables in Bangkok.The paddle to several of the nearby islandswas pleasurable, calm and hot. Withlittle or no shade, hats and sunscreen werea must. Villagers were excited to see visitorsand proudly displayed their catch of the day.Back at camp and with the sun movingto the western side of the island,there was ample time to relax in ourhammocks in the cool shade, enjoy alocal beer and wait for the evening’s standardfour-course dinner of Thai delights.On the morning of our final day, wellrested and relaxed, our porter (yes, porter!)assisted us in packing our things and loadingup the long-tail boat for the trip backto the mainland. Back in Hat Jao Mai, thehelpful staff went the extra mile and assistedus with our transportation plans south aswe mapped our route onwards to Malaysia.We can honestly say that of all theamazing places we visited on our journey,X-Site on Ko Loa Liang was the mostpeaceful and relaxing four days of any.For more information on X-Site , visittheir web site at www.Xsitediving.com. ❏THAILANDBangkokHat Jao MaiNational Park© Rod and Jo-Ann Tait own and operate OrcaCanoes and Kayaks Ltd, designers and buildersof Orca Boats. They can be reached at604-312-4784 or through theirwebsite at www.orcaboats.ca.Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com19

Know Your Neighbors—Bryan NicholsTropical Wildlife WatchingWhether you head south regularlyor the brochures and drizzle havefinally convinced you to go this year, youmight be wondering about seeing tropicalwildlife from a kayak. Last issue we lookedat ways to watch the Northwest’s amazingwildlife while paddling—are things anydifferent down south?Well, yes and no. But mostly yes. If you’rethe pessimistic type, you might think tropicalwildlife is all about lurking crocodiles,hungry sharks and man o’war jellies. Ifyou’re the optimistic sort, you might counton seeing nothing but pink flamingosand friendly manatees from your kayak.And if you’re just plain drizzle-weary,maybe you haven’t even considered wildlifewatching—warm water, sunshine andlocal rum might be all you’re hoping for.Well cheer up, all of you—the tropicsare vast and there’s something for everyone.If all you want is sunshine, choosethe season between cold fronts and hurricanesand head for one of the manyresorts which offer sit-on-top kayaks. IfWhitewater Kayak!ToursWith Chilliwack River RaftingNo experience necessary.Inflatable kayaks on class 2 to 3Easy skills transfer from Ocean kayakingDaily departures.Call 1-800-410-7238 or visitwww.dowco.com/chilliwackraftingyou want tropical birds or friendly mammals,some research and luck will giveyou a good chance. And even though thevast majority of crocs and sharks are verywell behaved towards kayakers, there area few spots left where bold kayakers stillhave to be wary of scales and pointy teeth.SO WHAT’S DIFFERENT?Remember last issue’s checklist? (If not,it’s online at www.WaveLengthMagazine.com.) You seasoned Northwest wildlifewatchers can pretty much forget aboutfour items on that list. For instance, shoremammals. Unless you get up into rivers,you are unlikely to see much in the wayof tropical shore mammals other than theoccasional raccoon, nutria or coati. Lions,tigers, bears and moose are generally notso fond of tropical coasts or small islands.Speaking of mammals, don’t bother lookingfor seals and sea lions—they are fewand far between in warm water. The lastCaribbean monk seal was seen in 1952(Hawaii and the Mediterranean each havea surviving monk seal species, but both areendangered). Of course, maybe the onlyhauled out mammals you’re interested inseeing will be the ones wearing thongs!It’s not just the mammals that are differentthough. Recall all that glorious kelpwe have up here—well, forest-sized kelpis a cold water phenomena. Seaweeds inthe tropics tend to be much more modestin size—the closest thing to a kelp bedwould be a big mat of Sargasso weed, theonly large seaweed that drifts the open sea.Finally, there are those intertidal cliffswe know and love. Although volcanicislands have cliffs, much tropical paddlingoccurs around low-lying limestoneislands, often fringed by seagrass beds,mangroves—or condominiums. Combinethat with relentless sunshine and relativelyminiscule tides (say, 30 cm insteadof four meters), and you have an intertidalzone that is so small and harsh you oftenwon’t see more than a few periwinkles.BUT THE GOOD NEWS IS…Now that you know what NOT toexpect (which is a good reminder ofwhy we love paddling in the PacificNorthwest), what can you look forwardto in the way of tropical wildlife?First, coral reefs deserve special mention.They are truly amazing, and judgingfrom brochures and television shows you’dthink they were everywhere. Unfortunatelyhealthy coral reefs are increasingly difficultto find. In some spots they are many kilometersoffshore—in others, formerly healthyreefs have been degraded by destructivefishing, pollution or even bleaching thatmay be due to climate change. Throughoutthe world they’re disappearing, whichmakes paddling one an increasingly rareprivilege your children may never experience.As an ecotourist, do your part tosupport communities and companies thatprotect their reefs (www.reefrelief.org).If you do find some good coral, the nextthing you’ll probably notice is the clarityof the warer. Corals thrive in clear waterbecause they can make their own foodfrom sunlight—we northerners are used toan ocean that is much richer in nutrientsand therefore murkier. Clear, nutrient-poorwater doesn’t always mean beautiful coralsthough—many areas have nothing but sand.Closer to shore, in estuaries and mangroveswamps, you’ll find lots of nutrients. Herethe water will be shallow and murky, andoften rich in wildlife. As tourist maps areunlikely to tell you which environments arenearby, you’ll have to ask the locals.If you do plan to get away from it all thiswinter, peruse this checklist for some wildlifewatching ideas. My other winter getawaychecklists can all be found online—together, they should give you something todo in between tequila shots, dive trips andburning your naughty bits on the beach.© Biologist Bryan Nicholsis currently at the BamfieldMarine Station on VancouverIsland, watching bearson shore and listening forrockfish.20 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

TROPICAL WILDLIFE WATCHING FROM YOUR KAYAKFLOATING JELLIESKayaks are the best way to seejellies anywhere in the world, andthe tropics are no different. You’ll beamazed at how pretty a Portugeseman of war can be up close—from your kayak. Just remember,tropical jellies are much more likely to give you a nasty sting, andyour skin is much more likely to be exposed and vulnerable.UNDER YOUR BUTTThough warm water invertebrates (1999Oct) aren’t as big or abundant as they are inthe Pacific Northwest, there are at least tworedeeming factors. One is the water itself—inmany areas it’s so clear you can see crittersmany meters below, and you have to love that.Also, although they might be tiny as individuals,reef-building corals (2001 Oct) manage tobuild boulders, patches, islands and even barrier reefs you can seefrom space! Remember though, hands off—corals are fragile andlike other tropical critters, they are more likely to have poisonousdefenses, especially the Pacific varieties.HEADING UPRIVER—ESTUARIESThe Northwest is an active coast—mountains dip right into the ocean. Butthroughout much of the tropics you willbe paddling passive coasts, where eonsof erosion have worn things down to sealevel. On passive coasts the estuariestend to be larger and a sea kayaker can paddle for kilometersupriver. Ask around locally and you might find some of the bestwildlife watching along the banks of rivers that meander slowlyto the sea.FOR THE BIRDSSince many of our own bird speciesmigrate south, adding to the numerousyear-round residents, the tropics have a lotof birds (2003 Oct). Shoreline birds are adelight and all that shallow water makes fora ton of waders, including brochure favoriteslike ibises and flamingos. Up in the air you’llsee pelicans, frigate birds and boobies—you’d be amazed at howmany people go south for the quality birdwatching.TROPICAL FISHOne activity where the tropics really kicksNorthwest butt is fishwatching from yourkayak (2000 Oct). If you can manage topaddle a decent coral reef, the combinationof clear water and big, colorful fish is impossibleto beat. Parrot, damsel and angel fishare all so appealing they’ll probably lure you out of your kayakfor some snorkeling.SHARKS & RAYSThese cartilaginous fish might not lureyou into the water, but you’ll find themfascinating from a kayak. You’re morelikely to see them in shallow bays whereyou wouldn’t be swimming anyway—big rays and (usually)small sharks venture into very shallow water and a kayak is agreat way to see them.KAYAK DIVEMost divers don’t need to be convincedcoral reefs are remarkableplaces to visit, but few have triedkayak diving, which is actually prettycool in the warm water. In an industrywhich is sadly catering ever more tothe wealthy ‘pampered’ diver, kayak diving is a way to regainyour independence and sense of serene adventure. It’s not foreverybody or every spot, but if you’ve got nearshore reefs anda yen to mix some paddling and scuba diving, kayak diving isa fascinating combination of oceanic activities.KAYAK SNORKELOf course, you don’t have to be scuba-certifiedto hear those colorful fishescalling you down. Almost any paddleron a coral reef will feel an irresistibleurge to don mask, snorkel and fins andhop in. Tow your kayak behind you andfloat amidst a world very different fromour own, where the wildlife is brightlycolored and out in the open. It’s easierthan you think to hop in and out of most kayaks, especially siton-topswhich are appearing all over the tropics.DOLPHINS & MANATEESOK, all that warm shallow waterisn’t filled with seals, sea lions, ottersor whales, like in the Northwest. Butthe tropics often have shallow watermarine mammals—dolphins andmanatees (or dugongs in the Pacific).Paddling with dolphins is a delight, especially if the water isclear. Paddling with manatees typically happens in more murkywater, but you might get lucky near a reef or in a spring-fedestuary. Both critters can be curious enough to approach you,and they’ll appreciate the fact you don’t make a lot of noiseand won’t run them down at high speed.WARM WATER & COLD BLOODThis final item of tropical wildlifewatching has no comparison up north,since reptiles cannot live long in chillyseawater. Close to tropical shores, especiallyon night paddles near swamps,you might come across the glowingeyes of a crocodile. There are a number of species throughoutthe world, a couple of which get alarmingly big, but encountersare very rare. Most are endangered. And fortunately Caribbeancrocs are very mild mannered. You’re much more likely to spotthe other reptiles, whopping big sea turtles. Kayakers see them asthey come up for a breath or laze about near the surface—sometimesthey’ll be spooked but other times they’ll just eye youcautiously before sinking slowly into the clear water. ❏© 2004. Text and photos by Bryan Nichols. No reproduction without permission.Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com21

Paddling the Virgin Islandswinter paddling getaway in the US Virgin Islands (USVI) meansA paddling in postcard-perfect scenery, white sand beaches,with unique cuisine (conch fritters are delicious), dramatic history,and a choice ofaccommodation thatranges from luxuryresorts to free lodgingin an award-winningeco-resort.Of the three islands,St. John is the smallestand lushest. Overtwo-thirds of it is a nationalpark including22 hiking trails, windingthrough plantationruins and along panoramicocean views.No dangerous wildlifelives here, though youmight come acrossthe wild donkeys thatroam the island freely.St. Thomas is famousas a cruise-ship destinationand noted forits shopping (duty-freeNew Phone:250-752-8432Extreme Interface presentslightspeed kayaks‘Quantum’—Performance Single 19’10” x 21”‘Evolution’—Single 16’10” x 23”The Quantum and Evolution join our proven touring kayaks,the Photon, Phoenix and Phantom, all featuring our uniqueSporttrek performance rudder system, sealed day hatch, andgenerous cargo capacity. All but the Photon can be fi tted withour Squall Sail Kit.www.extremeinterface.comElle Andra-Warnerfor Americans), fine dining and legendary landmarks (like pirateBluebeard’s Castle). And the diverse St. Croix (where Columbuslanded in 1493) has historic 17 th -18 th century Danish towns, charmingshops and a greatgolf course.Our first islandstop was St. John,first settled in 1717by Danes, Dutchmenand slaves fromthe Danish colonyon the neighboringSt. Thomas. Withina decade, the islandhad 88 working estatesor ‘plantages’producing rum andmolasses, thrivingonly because of extensiveuse of slavelabor. The demise ofthe plantations cameafter the freedom ofthe slaves here inPaddling the north shore of St John at Honeymoon Beach in the Virgin IslandsNational Park.© Steve Simonsen1848.St. John is an idealplace for kayakers ofall levels—the watersare usually calm and there are plenty of sheltered coves andbays. Most hotels and resorts provide complimentary kayaks totheir guests. We stayed at the Caneel Bay Resort built on the formerDurloo Plantation, and with seven white sand beaches on the resort,there were plenty of paddling destinations.But it was a surreal kind of experience kayaking around thebeaches. The technicolour tropical landscape seemed too perfect—itwas like we had stumbled onto some exotic painted movie set.Those postcard images of the clear turquoise waters lapping upon crystal white sand beaches, really do exist. The most famousbeach areas of St. John’s include Trunk Bay (the most photographedbay on island), Hawksnest Beach, Caneel Bay and Cinnamon Bay.For more serious exploring, several companies offer rentalkayaks and a variety of guided kayak tours through companieslike Arawak Expeditions Inc. You can book half-day and full-daytours, to week-long kayaking and camping expeditions, as wellLEADERSHIP COURSESin Tofi no, BCwith Dan Lewis & Bonny Glambeckof Rainforest Kayak AdventuresASSISTANT GUIDES COURSESAND DAY GUIDE COURSESVisit our new HILLIERS PLAZA factory outlet—Pacifi c RimHighway 4 (4.4 km west of Qualicum Beach exit 60). Checkout our Onda 11’ recreational sit-on-top and new Enigma9.5’ thermoformed recreational kayak, plus gear from Brooks,Salus, North Water, Simon River Sports, Ritchie.Call for our 2005 dates.Plan ahead!Call toll-free 1-877-422-WILDwww.rainforestkayak.com22 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

More of the north shore of Virgin Islands National Park.as sit-on-top kayak rentals (they don’trent touring kayaks without a guide).Arawak’s half-day trips are designed forthe beginner and include complete instructionon the beach before setting out. Youleave from Cruz Bay, paddle along thenorth shore of St. John and make a stopat Honeymoon Beach for a quick swim.Then you paddle out to Henley Cay, asmall uninhabited island which is part ofthe National Park, where you stop for someexcellent snorkelling before paddling backto Cruz Bay.Though kayaking is a great way to see St.John, there’s also a lot to explore on land.To understand St. John’s past, a must-seeis the Annaberg Sugar Mill, dating backto 1780. A walking tour of the ruins takes© Steve Simonsenyou past the old slave quarters, their village,the large stone windmill, circular horse mill(which produced 300-500 gallons of juicean hour from the sugar canes), and evena dungeon.And visiting St. John isn’t complete unlessyou visit the island’s culinary seaside landmark,Miss Lucy’s Restaurant at Coral Bay.It is where the locals dine, have full moonparties and play traditional calypso quebbemusic. The menu items are Caribbean foodlike kallallou soup (crab base with okra,spinach and spices), conch fritters, okrafungi, pigeon peas and rice.If you have the time, it is well worth theexpense to hop over to do some paddlingon the other two islands, St. Croix andSt. Thomas. On St. Croix, you can take a ➝Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com23

Virgin IslandsPuerto RicoPicture postcard perfect days.© Arawak Expeditionsguided kayak tour, or rent a kayak to paddle the protected watersof the Salt River National Historical Park. Along the river there arered and black mangrove forests, snowy egrets and iguanas. Youcan paddle to Columbus Landing, where Columbus landed on SaltRiver Bay on November 14, 1493 and met with the Carib people,who had already been on the island for over 800 years.Offshore about 1.5 miles from St. Croix’s capital, Christiansted,is the uninhabited Buck Island, home of the famous Turtle Beach,voted one of the world’s most beautiful beaches by NationalGeographic. We took a sailing charter to the island, which is aprotected national park with 880 acres, 176 on land (nature trailsand white coral sand beaches) and 704 in a water and coral reefsystem. The underwater trail (one of three in United States) weavesthrough coral grottoes and coral patch reefs and is world-famous for24 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

snorkelling. It was my first time snorkelling—an amazing adventureI’ll always remember.On the cosmopolitan island of St. Thomas, guided kayak toursare available to the St. Thomas Marine Sanctuary and MangroveLagoon. I didn’t have a chance to try this tour—but it is on my listfor next time.And oh yes… the free accommodations on St. John? Visit thewebsite of Maho Bay Camps (www.maho.org) and click on WorkPrograms to learn more about a working vacation; in exchange forfree lodging and free use of floats and chairs, Maho Bay asks fora work exchange commitment that averages out to 4 hours a day.(If interested, program applications are accepted only online fromDecember 15 to April 15). ❏Photos provided by:• Arawak Expeditions: www.arawakexp.com, St. John, USVI,1-800-238-8687, arawakexp@attglobal.net• Steve Simonsen, Marine Scenes: www.stevesimonsen.vi© Elle Andra-Warner is a freelance writer living in Thunder Bay, Ontario.Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com25

The Reluctant Kayaker—Marika WilsonDear Simone, I know we talked...Put OurFootwearBetweenYouand theWaterZIPPERED BOOTSDear Simone,I know we talked about going kayakingsomewhere tropical this winter, but I’mjust not excited about a long flight, vaccinations,the cost, etc. I think we’d both have abetter time if we stayed a bit closer to home.We could spend some time in BC,or south of the border in WashingtonState. There are lots of places alongthe coast that I’ve been meaning to seebut I’ve been way too busy with work.Sure, a tropical beach would be nice, butwinters here aren’t really that cold—do youknow the ocean only drops a few degrees? Itkeeps the land temperature quite moderate.I talked to Richard Antonchuk, owner ofAlberni Outpost, the main paddling centerhere in Nanaimo. He said he does most ofhis personal paddling in the wintertime,because that’s when things are less busyfor him. He says there are actually lotsof nice off-season days to be had—youjust have to go when the weather is good.Did you know that Victoria’s averagemonthly rainfall in winter is just 5cm (2inches)? The winter climate there is alsoone of the mildest in all of Canada, with•TofinoNanaimo•Victoria •SanJuansan average of 44 degrees Fahrenheit inDecember and January. That’s a lot warmerthan where you’re from, and it rarely snows.Did you know that the scuba divers whocome here from around the world actuallyprefer winter for the clarity of the water?!Kim Crosby of Wild Heart Adventuressays that there’s much more bird life in theNEWT BOOTSwww.harbourlynx.comEasy access toVancouver IslandToll Free: 1-866-206-LYNX (5969)AMPHIBIAN BOOTSTake the first stepto quality gear and check outour wide selection of paddlingaccessories and footwear.Give cold water the bootwith Brooks!Brooks Wetsuits Ltd.Toll Free 1-888-986-3441Fax: (604) 986-3443e-mail: info@brookspaddlegear.comwww.brookspaddlegear.comVALUE–ADDED! ALL BOOTS NOWPACKED IN RE-USABLE MESH BAGS.26 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

winter and early spring. The herring spawn,he says, brings eagles and sea lions out,and there’s hardly any traffic on the water.The best part is that we can keep costslow because hotels are cheaper in the winter,and you won’t have to pay peak airfareto get here. Plus, places won’t be crowded.Here are some of the options:NANAIMOOnce you get to Vancouver, you couldtake the HarbourLynx, a new passengeronlyferry service which goes direct fromDowntown Vancouver to DowntownNanaimo. Then we could rent kayaks andgear locally and do day trips from here. Isuppose we could stay in my little apartmentbut I’d prefer something a bit morespecial for our holiday. Diane told meabout the Inn of the Sea at Yellowpoint,which I could look into if you want.Then of course there’s Gabriola, wherewhere Dad lives. It’s just a 20 minute ferryride from Nanaimo and we could staywith him (at least we wouldn’t have to rentkayaks and gear that way since we couldborrow his). There’s good paddling therein the winter.SAN JUAN ISLANDSI’ve never been to the San Juans, but I hear they’re just as nice as the Gulf Islands...pretty much the same chain of islands, even though the border separates them. Dadmentioned that the Willows Inn offers accommodation all year long. And fromthere we could paddle or hook up with a whale watching boat to see the orcas.Anyway, Simone, let me know your thoughts on all of this. I’m getting excited to thinkof taking some time off. Can’t wait to see you.Love, Marika. ❏© Marika Wilson is a recent grad in tourism. She’s shownhere at her student job in downtown Nanaimo. For info onaccommodations or kayaking services available in the areasshe covers in her column, see the ads throughout this issue.She can be reached at Marika@WaveLengthMagazine.com.TOFINOWe could go storm-watching in Tofinoon the west coast, or whale watching. Afriend also told me about the hotspringsout there. We could stay on the Innchanter,a converted boat which is anchored nearthe hotsprings. Then there’s surf kayakingat Long Beach—apparently the winter isthe best time for surf. We could paddle ifit’s nice, or curl up with a book if it’s wet.VICTORIAIn summer, Victoria has tourists fromall over the world, but winter is anotherstory. We could rent kayaks at the kayakshops downtown and paddle the GorgeWaterway or the Inner Harbour. Thereare lots of good places to stay (and lotsof good restaurants!) or we could headout to Sooke for something more isolated.Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com27

Off-Season—Nootka and KyuquotThe west coast of Vancouver Island is agreat place to paddle in the off-season,especially if you are interested in followingthe cycles of wildlife, plants and intertidal life.The light is softer than the harsh glare of midsummer,few if any other paddlers are around,and the often mild temperatures contribute toa pleasant outdoor experience.After the first big rains of late Septemberand up to mid-November, one can paddlethe estuaries of the Zeballos and Kaouk Riversand witness the still-spectacular salmonruns and black bears feeding along the riverbank. The chum salmon run is of particularimportance to local Nuu-cha-nulth tribes.As explained by Victoria Wells of EhattesahtTribe: “It often meant the survivalor starvation of our people during winter.Because this salmon has a lower fat content,it keeps better during the winter, eitherdried or smoked.” Today, when paddlingalong Zeballos and Espinoza Inlet duringDog salmon moon (Sept.) or Cutting fishmoon (Oct.) a paddler is still greeted bythe scent of salmon being smoked in cedarsmokehouses near the shore.Mid-fall sees the arrival of overwinteringwater fowl such as trumpeter swans, divingbirds, and various ducks and geese whichjoin the resident blue herons, kingfishersKyuquotSoundNootkaSound• ZeballosCristina LeporeVancouverIslandand eagles. Fall also brings chanterelle andpine mushroom picking—you can stretchyour legs and your menu options at thesame time! The slanting late season rays ofsunshine bring out the colors of lichens andmosses on the rocks and the bright red hipsof the Nootka Rose. This native rose is infragrant bloom later in spring where it followsfawn lilies clothing the dark volcanicrocks in bright shades of pink.During the fall and winter months, thewater becomes much clearer than in thesummer and you can look at the colorfulsea stars, sea urchins and anemones growingon the rocks below. In the Nuchatlitazarea, rafts of sea otters move back to theshelter of reefs after staying offshore duringthe summer, and may treat you to a visit.Whales have been coming to these watersmore often in recent years—humpbacksin the fall and early winter, and orcas sporadicallythroughout the year. Gray whalesshow up around April.The brighter days of February and Marchbring some of the best wildlife viewing opportunitiesof the year, with blizzards of seabirds after the herring, huge groups of sealions, and hundreds of bald eagles—sometoo full to fly. Nuchatlitz and at the headsof Fair Harbour, Little Espinoza and PortLangford are the most accessible and livelyspots to watch local feeding frenzies.During March (Spawning moon) the bigevent of the new year for First Nations takesplace, bringing feasts of herring roe, the firstfresh food after a long winter. Nuchatlitzand Hesquiat were both well known forthe eel grass beds where herring spawnedon the blades. Today the roe is collected onhemlock branches—this flavor is preferredby many to that of the commercially importantroe-on-kelp.If you decide to paddle here in the offseason,bring good rain gear and warmclothes including weatherproof headgear,and make sure you have a VHF radio. ❏© Cristina Lepore, BSc is co-owner of ZeballosExpeditions: www.zeballoskayaks.com.28 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

Mothership Meandering—Alan WilsonPirates PaddleIn the Pacific Northwest, the boating season is intense in thesummer months—but only then. The rest of the year, eight ornine months, multitudes of power and sailboats spend their timequietly at the dock.Cooler, wetter weather is the main deterrent. But there must bemore to it than that, since even quite lovely stretches of weatherelicit little boating activity. Despite all the sophisticated navigationalequipment and seaworthiness of modern power and sailboats,paradoxically, it’s often the smallest of vessels you’ll see on thewater in the off-season—sea kayaks.The spread of ‘mothership kayaking’ may somewhat reverse thistrend as boaters find the combination appropriate for the off-season.The real secret is that you don’t have to go far afield. You can evenleave your mothership at the dock and use it as a kayak launchingplatform for day paddles on nice days.‘Go when it’s good’, is our motto. Wait for a weather windowand be prepared to go. In mid-winter, the warmest time of dayNanaimoVancouver IslandDoddNarrowsGabriola Island2MudgeLink3GEORGIA STRAITDeCourcyStuart Channel4Photos by Alan Wilsonand Laurie MacBride1PiratesCoveRuxtonPylades ChannelLaunch Options:1: Degnen Bay2: El Verano Drive3. Cedar-by-the-Sea4. Inn of the Sea orBlue Heron ParkSilva BayGabriola PassageValdez IslandOr, if conditions look favorable and the forecast is ok, you cantake your bigger boat out for a few nights. Certainly for boaters inthe Pacific Northwest, there are many sheltered spots within fairlyeasy reach of Seattle and Vancouver, such as those in the San Juan-Gulf Islands archipelago.Alan off the west side of Link Island.is usually the early afternoon. You’re low to the water, where thebreeze is least, and tucked into your cockpit, with snug sprayskirt,maybe gloves, a warm and dry paddling jacket—for some even adrysuit. It can be pretty toasty!Just launch off your big boat at the dock and poke your nose intothe many nooks and crannies near where you tie up, areas you probablynever see from the big boat. Get in close, explore the shallows,enjoy the rocks you fear when steering the big boat.Explore the Western Edgeof Vancouver Island!PIRATES COVEPirates Cove Marine Park on DeCourcy Island in the Gulf Islandchain is one of BC’s busier marine parks in summer, but in the offseasonit’s usually quiet. So one weekend in February, when fineweather dawned, we decided to take a complete break and get outon the water for the weekend. We quickly gathered our gear andprovisions (a little too quickly, as it turned out) and headed downto our boat in nearby Silva Bay, to catch the tide in the Pass.The water was mirror still as we motored away from the dock,save for the ripple from the canoe stern of our double-ender. Makingour way out of the Bay, we rounded into the waters protectedby Breakwater Island, passing Drumbeg Park on our right. GabriolaPassage was early in the flood and we made our way through easily,past fleets of scoters, into the calmer waters of Pylades Channel.Here our eyes were drawn south, along the shore of Valdez Island,to the white slash of beach at Blackberry Point (one of the primepaddling campsites in the Gulf Islands), and beyond to the bluehumps of the islands mounding in the distance. To the west of us,our gaze swept up the rising green slopes of Vancouver Island. Inthe foreground, our destination, Pirates Cove.➝POPEYE’SMarine & Kayak CenterKayak Nuchatlitz & KyuquotRentals Tours TransportWater Taxi to Nootka Trail250-761-4137www.zeballoskayaks.comMason’s LodgeA Haven for PaddlersRooms & Restaurant250-761 4044www.masonslodge.zeballos.bc.ca814 13th Street, Everett WAOn the Waterfront at Everett Marina425-339-9479 www.popeyesmarine.comOct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com29

As we neared the entry, we slowed, confirming adequate depthover the shallows at the end of the reef. No problem today for our4’ draft.Luck was also with us—no one else was anchored in the cove.We were able to simply drop our anchor in the center (in summer,stern ties are all but mandatory).Engine stilled, the quiet enclosed us. I launched our kayaks andgeared up while Laurie packed us a picnic. Then we were off,paddling along the Pylades side of DeCourcy, through clam andoyster-studded shallows, past summer cabins empty for the winterand around rocky islets. Now and then the slick heads of harborseals popped up, eyes silently watching, then descending to feaston hordes of little fish flooding under our hulls.To our left a tiny passage opened where DeCourcy butted up toLink Island. ‘Boat Passage’, as it’s known locally, is only suitable forshallow draft vessels, like runabouts or kayaks, and it dries at lowertides. So check your tide guide or be prepared for the possibility ofa short, crunchy, intertidal portage.That day we had enough water and slipped through the narrowopening, marvelling as always at the rocky southwestern shoresof Link Island, sculpted by wind, rain, sea and sun into fantasticshapes.The sandstone shoreline of both Link and DeCourcy is sensuouslyeroded with smooth curves, hollows and hillocks, and in somespots, elaborate honeycomb patterns. The sheer artistry of natureamazes us every time we see it.And then we noticed the eagles. There they sat in the hundreds,perched like so many white candles among the branches, alongthe whole forested west side of the island. Undoubtedly the herringwere running to draw such a congregation.Regrettably, in our rush to leave home that morning, we’d leftbehind our cameras, so instead of seeing through our cameraMiddletonsʼ Specialty BoatsSALES • RENTALS • INSTRUCTIONPh: 604-240-0503This imposing sandstone overhang dwarfs Laurie.COME VISIT OUR NEW STORE!1851 WELCH STREET, NORTH VANCOUVER, BCKAYAKS, CANOES, GEARDagger, Formula, Necky, Perception, Pacific KayaksNew Lashlock system holds and locks your boatdavid@middletonsboats.comwww.middletonsboats.com30 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

Paddling through nature’s art gallery.lenses, we drank in the scene as we driftedby (fortunately we had taken photos onprevious paddles so we are able to illustratethis column!).Some of the great birds soared circlesabove us, others uttered their piercing,whistling calls. But most were mute observers,turning their powerful eyes and hookedbeaks towards us for a long chilling stareas we passed.Link Island ends at Mudge Island, with alovely stretch of sand between them whichis covered at highest tides, but today itprovided us ample beach. Pulling ashore,we stripped off our sprayskirts and paddlingjackets, popped our kayak hatches to getour grub, and soon were sitting back cozilyagainst a drift log, enjoying the surprisingwarmth of the late winter sun, our sandaledfeet making depressions in the sand.After lunch we wandered about checkingthe tideline for anything interesting thatmight have washed up. We were carefulnot to intrude onto Link Island beyond thehigh tide level. This private island is keptin a beautifully undeveloped state by itsowners.We did walk some way up the publicroad on Mudge Island, and with moretime we could have hiked the length of theisland to overlook furiously flowing DoddNarrows at the north end (up to 8 knots),but today we returned to our boats after juststretching our legs a bit.We relaunched into shallows on thePylades side (at low tide you can be in fora long carry over muddy tidal flats) andpaddled away from the beach, past a cutelittle islet. This islet has been mentionedby several writers in the past, includingmyself, as ‘crown land’ and open to kayakcampers. And it’s been used infrequentlyfor many years for just this purpose, withminimal impact. But as Mary Ann Snowdensays in the latest version of her Gulf Islandguidebook (Sea Kayak the Gulf Islands,Rocky Mountain Books, 2004), this is in factprivate and unavailable for paddlers.We paddled along the Pylades side ofLink and passed through Boat Passageagain so we could have another look at theamazing eagle display. Then we paddledthe west side of DeCourcy, past scoter andpigeon guillemot roosts in the sandstonecliffs, along shores as remarkably sculptedas those of Link.Rounding the southern end of DeCourcywe paddled toward Ruxton Pass, betweenDeCourcy and neighboring Ruxton Island.On our left was the south side of PiratesCove Marine Park, itself a good anchoragein a northwest wind, and the beach wherepaddlers land. Opposite this, on the Ruxtonside, is Herring Bay, a good anchorage insoutheast winds, but boaters have to watchtheir charts carefully to avoid the reefs atthe entry. The same reefs are a delight topaddle among at low water.Rushing through the passage with theflood, we now rounded the peninsular tip ofthe Park and re-entered Pirates Cove properwhere we saw that we’d been joined by asailboat from Seattle. With some pleasureI saw they had kayaks strung from theirlifelines.What a perfect spot for an off-seasonmothership trip, we said to one another aswe arrived back at our boat. We soon hadour oilstove going, the boat warming upnicely, dinner in mind, looking forward toa rare winter night on the water.NOTE:The paddle described here is probablyonly around 10 km, but we managed tospin it out quite happily into several hours,following the shoreline’s ins and outs andenjoying the wildlife encounters. Experienceshows us that the slower we go, themore we see.For those interested in pursuing thefascinating subject of sandstone weathering,check out the latest issue of the ShaleJournal, with lots of photographs, fascinatinginformation and technicalspeculations. See www.island.net/~gm_chin/shale.html oremail nickdoe@island.net. ❏© Alan WilsonOct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com31

From the Rainforest—Dan LewisA Cozy Winter Retreatfew winters back I ran into my friendA Mark Hobson in town. I was gettinginto watercolor painting, and had enjoyeda few of his incredible painting workshops.“You should come up the inlet and paintwith me this week,” he said. “I just needto get a diver to check the flotation undermy floathouse, and I’m heading backtomorrow.”The next day I decided to drop everythingand head on up. Mark rarely invitespeople up to paint. The only problem wasthat we were in the middle of a huge,mid-February storm. I waited all day forthe storm to abate, but the 4 pm weatherforecast continued to call for storm forcewinds.But I was all ready to go and it wasn’t far.Mark’s retreat is tucked in a protected coveup an inlet which is usually flat calm, evenwhen the winds are howling everywhereelse. The only tricky part would be gettingto the mouth of the inlet. I had an hour ofdaylight left.Sure enough, it was a tough slog as Ipounded straight into the wind. But I madeit, and turned the corner. Suddenly it felt asif the wind speed picked up significantly, anobservation later confirmed by Bonny, whowas sitting at homeby the woodstove.Huge swathsof white came atme—squalls comingdown off themountain slopesas the southeastwinds blasted overthe ridge top. Theylooked scary. Asthe first one approached, I braced myself,leaning into the anticipated force. The windhit me square on the beam, and I had adefinite sense that I could easily be knockedover. I buried my paddle in the water on theupwind side of the boat, shuffling my gripon the shaft to give me a four foot wide lowbrace, with not much left downwind for thewind to grab. The rain pelted down—I wasglad to be warm and dry under my trustysou’wester hat.It was time to get to the east side of theinlet, fast—I didn’t want to endure manymore gusts like that. I paddled hard, bracingwhenever I saw another squall coming,hunkering down as it passed, screamingimpromptu prayers to any gods who werelistening.I eventually made it across the inlet,where the winds were being channelednorth by the steep mountain slopes. Thewind whipped up three foot waves in notime. I caught each one, getting fantasticMark’s retreat is tucked in a protectedcove up an inlet which is usuallyflat calm, even when the winds arehowling everywhere else. The onlytricky part would be getting to themouth of the inlet. I had an hour ofdaylight left.Be Part of the Solution!Small changes in our recreational practices canmake a BIG difference for SPECIES AT RISK.Georgia Strait Alliancewww.GeorgiaStrait.org250-753-3459rides. Many times had I guided total beginnersthrough mill pond conditions in thesewaters, never dreaming I would one daybe surfing here!I pushed on, reflecting on how nice itwould be to arrive at Mark’s and not haveto go through the chores of opening up,lighting the fire and waiting for the placeto heat up. It occurred to me that he wouldbe glad to see me, as no-one would wantto spend a night alone on a floathouse insuch a tempest.A s I f i n a l l yrounded the pointinto his cove, therewas a definite lackof light from thewindows. As I approached,I confirmeda similarabsence of smokefrom the chimney,and realized that his motorboat, whichshould have been tied up alongside, wasn’tthere.My timing had been a little tight, and Icertainly hadn’t planned for this contingency.There was no way I was going to paddlefurther into that storm, in the dark, not evenback to his nearest neighbor’s. No way—Iwas here, gods be thanked, and it was hereI would be spending the night.I lit the lamps and started a fire. We wereexperiencing a bit of a cold snap, and therewas rare snow on the roof, so it took longerthan usual to warm the place up. I triedhis cell phone, but could not get out to letBonny know I was okay.The floathouse also seemed to be on abit of a tilt, and I began to wonder if thatwas why Mark wasn’t there. Perhaps he hadfailed to get a diver up to inspect the floats,and didn’t want to endure a long, dark nighton a sinking floathouse in a storm?There was nothing I could do. After sup-Mention this ad for a FREE membership.32 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

per I immersed myself in Mark’s collectionof natural history books. The only work I didon paintings was to run about picking uphis unfinished masterpieces as they toppledover periodically with a dramatic crash.I read late into the night, and slept fitfullyto the cacophony of squalls hittingthe house broadside, punctuated by fallingpaintings, with a background of rattlingrigging on the sailboat tied up alongside.It was tied on the side that was sinking—Iwasn’t sure if it was the cause of the house’stilt, or if in fact it was the only thing keepingme afloat.By morning, the storm had abated. Thehouse had warmed up, and it was hardto tear myself away from his cozy retreat.Besides, I was deeply immersed in a bookabout the beaks of Darwin’s finches. AndMark would be back today, surely.By afternoon, the weather began tochange, and I could tell a storm was buildingfast. I sure didn’t want to paddle southinto a building storm, so I sat tight. By 4pm it became obvious that Mark was notcoming, and that I would be reliving thelast night’s ordeal if I didn’t get moving.Reluctantly, I put my wetsuit back on. Thestorm wasn’t quite as furious this time—Ipounded home in a couple of hours, exhausted,and happy to arrive at the warmcabin where Bonny had just cooked supperin case I was silly enough to paddle home!EPILOG: I ran into Mark a few days later.He explained that the diver had been unableto get up in the storm. Mark returnedthe day after I left. The snow had melted,and the house’s tilt had vanished with it! ❏© Dan Lewis and BonnyGlambeck operate RainforestKayak Adventures in ClayoquotSound. 1-877-422-WILD,mail@rainforestkayak.com,www.rainforestkayak.com.Mark Hobson photoAlert Bay, BCthe friendliest little island in Johnstone StraitSee tall totems, visit the world famousU’Mista First Nations museum, enjoyhistoric landmarks, browse gift shops,stroll boardwalks and nature trails.250-974-5403 250-974-5024umista@island.net info@village.alertbay.bc.caPAGE’S RESORT MARINASilva Bay—Gabriola Island, BCCottages, Campground, Fuel, Moorage,Laundromat, Showers, Diveshop,Artwork, Charts, Books andPRIME PADDLING!Flat Top Islands andDrumbeg Provincial Park.Established 1943Call 250-247-8931www.pagesresort.comOct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com33

Gear Locker—Alex MatthewsNecky Chatham 16The Chatham 16 is a relatively lowvolume sea kayak very much in theBritish style. Eschewing a rudder in favorof a drop skeg and employing 3rubber hatches and 3 bulkheads, itssleek lines reflect classic Greenland designswith an upswept bow and stern.The 16 is available in three materials:polyethylene, fiberglass or carbon.Necky has overhauled their compositefabrication methods and a sophisticatedinfusion process is now used instead oftheir long-standing open layup. The resultis a more optimal cloth-to-resin ratio,meaning lighter, stronger parts without thebrittleness associated with excess resin.Our test kayak was fiberglass. Thequality of the layup was excellent andthe seams extremely neat. This is an impressivelystiff boat. There is very littleflex anywhere and the boat feels solidlybuilt, weighting in at about fifty pounds.The kayak is 16’5” long. The beamis 22”. The cross-sectional shape midshipis rectangular, displaying a distincthard chine and a full, vertical side-wall.The rocker is also quite pronounced.Afloat, the boat feels very stable for itswidth. It is highly maneuverable, respondingnicely to edging and lean turns, virtuallyspinning on an extreme lean. It’s athome in wind and waves, as well as tightplaces like rocky micro-bays or sea caves.It’s great for rock gardens or tidal rips,excelling in agility and quick response.Volume has been carried quite far out tothe bow and stern. This buoyancy doesn’tcreate the finest entry. In fact, it reducesglide when driving the boat forward. Butit does provide lots of reserve buoyancy,keeping the bow on the surface and makingthe Chatham very capable in roughwater and surf. This really is an easy boat toKayak Repair & RefitVancouver Island Southpaddle in challenging situations, instillingconfidence with handling that was reassuringin all conditions encountered.The Chatham deals with wind well.Decks are low, reducing windage andmaking layback rolls comfortable. Decklayout is simple and effective, with wellplacedbungies, recessed deck fittings andperimeter lines.The drop skeg did its job, but it’s a littlefloppy when deployed, and the unionwhere the skeg cable entered the skeg box,in the stern hatch, leaked after 3 weeks ofheavy use.Three neatly installed bulkheads dividethe cargo compartments. Hatches are theValley Canoe Product (VCP) rubber type,and all are tethered against accidentalStructural RepairsKeel Line RebuildsGel Coat Refi nishingComponent ReplacementsText by Alex MatthewsPhotos by Alex Matthewsand Rochelle Relyealoss. Ovals are used at the bow and stern,providing good access to the limited spaceinside. A smaller 7.5” round unit is used forthe day hatch.The main factor relative to fit is the widthof the cockpit and seat. Some 200 poundpaddlers were definitely not happy, whileothers liked the snug fit. At 150 pounds, Iliked it a lot. The foam seat pan is not themost comfortable I’ve encountered, butthe underside of the deck and the excellentthigh hooks allowed me to dial in agreat interface with the boat. The uniquealloy thigh hooks adjust back and forth aswell as up and down for a snug, customfit. A backband does a good job of supplyingback support and is easily adjustedvia snowboard style ratchets located onthe inside of the cockpit coaming. Theseunits started to show minor signs of rust,but worked well throughout testing. Footpedals are rock solid.Once adjusted, this kayak feels like anextension of your body—a boat that youwear, not one that you simply sit in. Rolling,edging and all other maneuvers dependingon good fit, were easy.I really enjoyed this kayak. It’s a forgivingpackage that rewards good paddling skillswith zippy maneuverability and great roughwater performance. The 16 is clearly moreplayboat than flat-water cruiser. It‘s not aspeed machine, but does hold a comfortabletouring pace reasonably well. Cargospace is limited so paddlers will have topack carefully for multi-day trips. TheChatham 16 is all about poise in roughconditions. And when it comes to playingin rapids, surfing waves or paddling in reallygnarly, challenging waters, this kayak woulddefinitely be one of my first choices.Length: 16’ 5”Width: 22”Weight: 49 lbs Fiberglass, 45 lbs Carbon,58 lbs PolyethyleneManufacturer’s suggested price:Fiberglass—$3,399 Cdn / $2,699 USCarbon—$3,999 Cdn / $3,199 USPolyethylene—$1,999 Cdn / $1,449 USNecky Kayaks2460 Salashan LoopFerndale, WA, 98248866-NECKY-87www.necky.com2072 Henry Ave. West,Sidney BC. (250) 654-005234 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

Holey SolesSometimes it seems as if gear reviewsinvariably focus on the latest,greatest, and most expensiveproducts available. Enter Holey Soles.These slightly goofy looking slip-onshoes have quickly become my firstchoice in footwear for just about everything.And at $23 Canadian, it’sawfully hard to resist trying a pair!The shoe itself is a classic clog shape,with a roomy toe box and a texturedfoot-bed. A low back makes slipping them on and off really easy.The outer sole has decent tread and provides surprisingly good grip.Large holes in the toe box area provide venting, shed water andallow sand and other debris to flush out of the shoe. But it’s HoleySoles’ clever injected molded foam construction that makes thesedeceptively simple clogs so great. They are amazingly light, andbecause each shoe is simply one solid piece of foam, there are noseams to fail, no glued pieces to delaminate, or buckles to break.They are beautifully simple and surprisingly durable. And yes, theyfloat too! And now they are also available in a version with a backstrap which can be flipped up across the instep for true slip-onfunction, or worn across the back of the foot to keep the shoe onin more dynamic situations.Holey Soles rule at the beach or in a boat. They rinse clean ofsand better than any sport sandal I’ve ever tried and provide farmore sun protection. They dry really fast, unlike the straps on sportsandals that seem to stay wet forever.I’ve even completed a 2-hour hike in mine. Holey Soles are perfectfor standing long days on hard surfaces, while still being easyto flip on and off for impromptu foot stretches. There isn’t muchthat I haven’t done with these cushy foam clogs. They were prettymuch the only shoes that I wore on a 3-week kayak trip last month.I wear them paddling, I wear them to work, I wear them travelling(great for flights, especially when security want your shoes off!),I’ve even worn them to fine restaurants…Hmm, I wonder whenthe opera is in town?Black, Navy Blue, Pacific Blue, Purple, Pink, Red,Orange, Lime, Tan.Sizes: XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, XXLPrice: $23 CdnHoley Soles Holdings Ltd.Vancouver, BC604-263-5527www.holeysoles.com ❏© Alex Matthews is atmatthewsalex@hotmail.com.Paddle Meals—Debbie LeachFoiled FishCentered over the ball with one eye on the balloon attached tothe wicket. A quick whack of the mallet sends the ball scootingacross Great Slave Lake.April is a good time to play croquet on the frozen surface anddream about paddling again when Back Bay is ice-free—an adventureoption if you live in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories likeRosella Stoesz, who has made it her home for 24 years. She paddleswith her mid-sized dog Ruby poised in the cockpit of her kayak.If you’re in Yellowknife between July and September, you couldget out paddling with a little help from Narwal Paddling Adventuresor Overlander Sports.For baking fish packets: preheat the oven or BBQ to 450°F orburn the campfire to coals. Prepare a double thickness of foil 12x 24 inches and brush the center with oil. Each packet will holdtwo firm fish fillets (5 or 6 ounces each).ASIAN FISH1 cup cooked rice2 cups coarsely chopped bok choy2 scallions, chopped2 fish fillets1 small can water chestnuts (drained)or 1 cup match-stick pieces of daikon—a white radish1 tablespoon vegetable oil1 teaspoon grated ginger1 clove garlic, crushed2 teaspoons soy sauce2 teaspoons dark sesame oilsplash of chili oilFold over foil to make an airtight parcel.Bake 20 minutes.GREEK FISH1 cup thinly sliced fennel1 small tomato, sliced8 thin slices red onion2 fish fillets2 tablespoons olive oiljuice of 1 lemon1 tablespoon chopped fresh dilldash of salt and pepperBake airtight foil packet for 20 minutes.Rosella Stoesz withDebbie LeachORANGETTI FISHPierce one spaghetti squash several times with a large fork. Placein baking dish and cook at 375°F for approximately one hour, untilflesh is tender. Scoop out as much of the ‘spaghetti’ onto the foilsheets as desired. Top with fish. Sprinkle with fish sauce and ½ cupshredded carrots. Bake packet for 20 minutes. ❏© Debbie Leach started her Arcticadventures in March and is currentlyworking and paddling out of RankinInlet, Nunavut.Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com35

Books & Videos—Diana MumfordSailing With Vancouverby Sam McKinney, TouchWood Editions, 2004ISBN 1-894898-12-5, 224 pp, bibliography,$17.96 Cdn, www.touchwoodeditions.comIn 1792, Captain George Vancouver and thecrews aboard the sailing ships Discovery andChatham, explored the inland waters of presentday Washington and BC—from Puget Sound toQueen Charlotte Strait. Two hundred years later,alone in his 25 foot sailboat Kea, , American Sam McKinney tracedthe route of the explorers’ expedition with copies of Vancouver’sjournal and chart to lead the way. The result is a well written storythat will be of great interest to sailors, paddlers and history buffs.Needing an adventure to foil the effects of aging, McKinneybought Kea as a present for himself on his 70th birthday. His interestin early maritime exploration and a desire to experience the InlandSea in a purposeful way rather than in “a high-speed run from onemarina to another,” led him to follow Vancouver’s route.McKinney experienced many of the same physical conditions oftides, currents, winds and rocks, and the emotional costs of being atsea far from home, as did his predecessors. McKinney’s observationsof the coast today and his reflections on the daily activities,personalities and motivations of the early explorers alongside quotesfrom Vancouver’s journal, make for fascinating reading.Kayak Across the Atlanticby Pete BrayPolperro Heritage Press, 2004ISBN 0-9544233-4-8176 pp, color photos, £9.95 UKwww.polperropress.co.ukKayak Across the Atlantic is the story of anindomitable man’s determination to take himselfacross one of the most inhospitable oceans inthe world. This first-ever, single-handed, self propelled crossingof the North Atlantic was first attempted by Pete Bray in 2000 ina 27 foot kayak. That first attempt was soon scuttled by a leakingboat. On his second attempt a year later, the 2000 mile trip fromNewfoundland to Ireland was accomplished in 76 days of extremeweather, despite debilitating fatigue and nearly disastrous gearfailure. Bray tells his amazing story with self deprecating humor andand humility. The reader, safe and comfortable at home, can onlywonder at the resolve that kept Pete Bray paddling towards his goal.Wilderness Paddling - 2005 CalendarPhotos by Gary and Joanie McGuffinFirefly Books, 2004ISBN 1-55297-208-9$14.99 Cdn, $13.99 USwww.fireflybooks.comNot a book, but a great gift ideafor someone who loves to paddle.This is a large format wall calendar (14 in. x 24 in. open) withtwelve magnificent photographs of fabulous wilderness paddlingdestinations, mostly in Ontario, but also including Greenlandand Baja. The peace and tranquility of wilderness landscapes willfollow you throughout the year with these images above your desk!Kayaking in South Western BC28 mins. VHS (DVD—V125HU)$24.95 Cdn (plus $5 shipping)www.ecofilms.bc.ca250-247-9967This video will interest those thinking of getting into kayaking.Neophytes will learn what they can expect when they sign upfor an introductory paddle, with commentary provided by two ofBC’s top guides, Peter Marcus and Jim Demler, both of GabriolaIsland. Scenic shots demonstrate what it’s like to paddle in thewaters around Gabriola, the Broken Islands and Clayoquot Soundwith a great soundtrack by Ken Hamm! $5.00 from each copyordered online will be donated to the Georgia Strait Alliance.36 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

The UltimateGuide toWhitewaterKayakingby Ken Whitingand Kevin VaretteThe HeliconiaPress, 2004288 pp, b/wphotos/illust.$29.95 Cdn$22.95 USISBN 1-896980-12-0, www.helipress.comWith the 1997/98 World Freestyle KayakingChampionship and five Canadian Championshipsunder his belt, Ken Whiting isa recognized authority and enthusiasticpromoter of whitewater paddling. Heand Kevin Varette, one of Canada’s foremostkayak instructors and also a repeatmember of Canada’s National FreestyleTeam, have collaborated to produce thisguide to whitewater kayaking—a valuableaddition to the collection of instructionalmaterials available to whitewater kayakersand wannabes. The authors’ combined experienceand knowledge provide a wealthof information, presented clearly withaccompanying photos and illustrations toappeal to the visual learner. With severalcontributions by other kayaking experts,the guide speaks authoritatively about everyaspect of whitewater kayaking, from choosingequipment and preparing yourself, torolling and rescues.Riversenseproduced by Kate GeisThe Heliconia PressISBN 1-896980-15-5DVD, 78 min., $22.95 USwww.riversense.comwww.helipress.comRiversense is an award winning tary profile of five whitewater paddlers anddocumen-their lives both on and off the water. Withstunning footage of river padding, greatmusic and interviews with people at differentages and stages in their lives, this isan entertaining and revealing glimpse intothe lives of people who are passionate aboutrivers and paddling. Featured are Katie andBJ Johnson, extreme paddlers learning howto fit parenthood into their life; T.R. Yon, a15-year-old playboater trying to fit into theworld of competitive paddling; the late WilliamNealy, author and cartoonist, reflectingon his life and marriage; and Dunbar Hardy,recovering from a drop over a waterfall thatbroke his back. Riversense gives us a briefbut intimate introduction to extraordinarypeople who have chosen an exhilaratingsport as a focus for their lives.Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.comChattooga:Descending into theMyth of DeliveranceRiverby John LaneThe University ofGeorgia Press, 2004ISBN 0-8203-2611-9224 pp, hardcover$29.95 USwww.ugapress.orgDefying classification as any particulargenre, John Lane’s Chattooga is a personalmeditation on the river itself, on the movieDeliverance (1972), on the novel thatinspired the movie (1970), and on peoplewho have been touched by the river.Fascinated by the Chattooga after seeingthe movie and reading the novel, Lanedidn’t actually experience it himself untilhe began whitewater paddling in the earlyeighties under the influence of psychologyprofessor and paddling enthusiast, JohnPilley. Twenty years later, having witnessedthe transformation of whitewater paddlingfrom wilderness adventure enjoyed by afew pioneers to a much more mainstreamcommercial tourism activity, he chronicledhis own paddling trips down the Chattooga,remembering conversations with paddlingcompanions and interweaving the strands ofhis experiences with the images and wordsof others who have a deep connectionwith the river. This personal narrativewill probably be most enjoyed by thosewho have seen the movie and/or shareLane’s fascination with the Chattooga,but anyone who has an affinity for riverswill recognize and appreciate this profile.➝The Wild Edge:Clayoquot, LongBeach and BarkleySoundby Jacqueline WindhHarbour PublishingAvailable Nov. 2004ISBN 1-55017-350-2color photos, 160 pphardcover, $34.95Cdn, www.harbourpublishing.comSome of Canada’s most spectacular coastlinefor sea-kayaking—Vancouver Island’srugged outer shores—are shown in abeautiful new photographic study by JacquelineWindh, a frequent contributorto WaveLength. She has spent ten yearsphotographing the Clayoquot–Pacific Rimin all its seasons and moods, studying itshistory and getting to know its people.In The Wild Edge she shares her findingsin images and words, supplementing herscenic photographs with a light-heartedbut informative text that blends history andscience with essential visitor guidance.Jackie writes: “I hope that this bookwill give you some idea of the complexityand allure of the wild west coast—thesavage beauty, its fascinating history, andthe people who make their home here.And I hope to inspire you to help protectthem so that this ancient and venerableland and its traditional inhabitants willbe here for all future generations.” ❏To have your Books or Videosconsidered for review, contactDianaMumford@WaveLengthMagazine.comor call 1-800-799-560237

GREAT GEAR & KAYAKSQUINSAM PADDLENimbus Paddles have retooled all of their top end compressionmoulded paddles. The Quinsam is 6.5” wide, available in lengthsfrom 215 cm to 255 cm, weighs 29 ounces in fiberglass, 24.5ounces in graphite (at 220 cm length). Suggested retail is $260($210 US) in glass; $399 ($307US) graphite. “We are finding thatpaddlers with a low stroke angle like this paddle,” says Dave Bainof Nimbus. www.nimbuspaddles.com, info@nimbuspaddles.com,250-862-8049. Editor’s Note: I tried out this paddle on the first dayof our summer holidays and ended up using it for the rest of the trip.KAYAK STORAGE SOLUTIONSMartin Creek has made kayak storage simple, safe, and convenient.The KSR-1600 is made from powder-coated aluminum and holdsmost kayaks on the market, while giving you easy access anytime.The side storage of the KSR-1600 eliminates hull distortion. Getyour kayak out of harms way and stored safely. $59US. For moreinformation: Martin Creek Kayak Storage Solutions: 7015 WellsHwy Seneca, SC 29678. 1-888-9851031. www.MartinCreek.com.SRS ‘SHARK’ WING PADDLESimon River Sports’ carbon fibre, high performance wing paddleis feather-light, and the easily stowed 5-piece design is thenumber one choice for versatility and portability. The Shark canbe used for training, touring, competing, whitewater, flatwaterand adventure racing. Suggested retail price for a Shark (mediumblade) 5-piece, carbon shaft is $495Cdn/$360US. All WaveLengthsubscribers have a chance to win this great paddle. Check outthe subscription form on page 43 of this issue, or call 1-800-799-5602, or subscribe online at www.WaveLengthMagazine.com.To list your Great Gear & Kayakscontact Diane@WaveLengthMagazine.comor call 1-800-799-560238 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

NEWSPUERTO RICO MARINE RESERVEPuerto Rican Governor Sila M. CalderónSerra has endorsed a bill to create“Reserva Marina Tres Palmas de Rincón”in Puerto Rico. The law will establish amarine reserve in the Tres Palmas areaof Rincón and devote $100,000 for thedevelopment of a management plan.Long renowned for its beautiful beaches,excellent surfing and abundant sea life,Tres Palmas also supports one of the lasthealthy populations of elkhorn coral in theCaribbean.In a textbook example of grassroots activism,the Surfrider Foundation worked withseveral other groups and collected over7,000 local signatures and over 35,000international signatures in support of thecampaign to win the reserve.For more information on the SurfriderFoundation’s efforts in Rincón, Puerto Rico,go to www.surfrider.org/rinconGREAT BARRIER REEF PROTECTEDA fishing ban on over one-third ofAustralia’s Great Barrier Reef will make itthe world’s best protected marine environment.The Australian government has shown itrecognizes that the value of tourism outweighsthat of the commercial fishery andthat a profusion of fish is key to the area’scontinuing popularity.However, the reef is still threatened byrising sea temperatures that cause coralbleaching. Runoff of soil and minerals,washed down rivers from farms near thecoast of northeastern Australia, is smotheringsome areas of the reef.For more, see the BBC NEWS website:http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/3566901.stmOIL LEAKING FROM WWII WRECKSThe islands of the South Pacific arethreatened with oil which has started leakingfrom sunken World War II warships.Sea Kayak Association of BCTrips, training, monthly meetings,newsletters, paddling contactswww.skabc.orgThe wreckage of US and Japanese aircraftcarriers, battleships and oil tankers is scatteredthrough the region.In 2001, oil started leaking from the USSMississinewa, a US navy oil tanker sunk in1944 in Micronesia.The Navy has since pumped out millionsof liters of oil from the wreck. But authoritieshave carried out a survey that charted857 wartime wrecks, all disintegrating andcollectively capable of spewing enormousquantities of oil.None of island countries have equipmentto clean up marine spills.PRIZE WINNERSThe winners of the Georgia Strait Allianceraffle drawn in September were:• Aurora Discover Kayak by Seaward:V. Sattmann, Whitehorse, Yukon.• Brentwood Bay Lodge Adventure Package:Terry Dheensaw, Shawnigan Lake, BC• Dolphin Spirit Jewellery:Heather Florence, Ladysmith, BC.ADVENTURE TOURISM DIPLOMAA new 2-year Adventure Tourism Diploma(AT Diploma) at North Island College ofVancouver Island will prepare participantsfor management and lead guiding positionsin the adventure tourism industry.This innovative program combines thestrengths of NIC’s well-received 5-monthCoastal Adventure Tourism Certificate(CAT Certificate) and their establishedTourism and Hospitality Diploma courses.The Adventure Tourism Diploma includestraining in advanced guidingskills, and entrepreneurial and businessmanagement skills. This includes coursesin organizational leadership, marketing,accounting, risk management, and environmentaland cross-cultural considerations,plus a co-op work term and manyother courses. Advanced guiding skillstraining will be customised to meet eachstudent’s professional guiding aspirations.Students can begin the Adventure TourismDiploma in September or January. Thepopular Coastal Adventure Tourism Certificatestill runs from January to May, andcan be taken alone or as part of this newDiploma. For keeners, the AT Diploma willhave transfer credit into adventure tourismdegree programs elsewhere in BC. www.nic.bc.ca/tourism, or contact David Pinel atdpinel@nic.bc.ca, or questions@nic.bc.ca,or call 250-830-0948.COASTAL MAPPINGJohn Harper, of Coastal & Ocean ResourcesInc., wrote to tell us about thecoastal mapping they are doing in Alaska.One of the by-products is that they placethe coastal imagery on the web. They haveimaged about 8,000 km of the coast (allat low tide) over the past three years andall is web accessible at www.CoastAlaska.net. There is a 5-10 minute imagery tutorialand numerous kayakers have used thesite for trip planning. He notes they will bere-flying the Gulf Islands and hope to beposting that imagery in the very near futurealso. john@coastalandoceans.com, www.coastalandoceans.com.SEAGRASS CONSERVATIONThe Seagrass Conservation Group (SCG)is a network of community groups andrepresentatives from government agenciesalong the BC Coast working to locate, mapand monitor eelgrass habitat. This habitat ➝ODYSSEY KAYAKINGTours • Rentals • LessonsLocated in Port Hardy, Vancouver Island, BCServing Port Hardy, Port McNeill and Telegraph Covemembership@skabc.org604-290-9653Box 751, Stn. A,Vancouver, BC V6C 2N6© Photo Chris Jacksa250-902-05651-888-792-3366www.odysseykayaking.comodyssey@island.netOct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com39

is critical for unique species like the ancestralseahorse (the Bay Pipefish), theGreat Blue Heron, and the Pacific Herring.Please visit the SKGABC website (www.skgabc.com) for details on how you canhelp out with this research, and PDF of thedatasheet.REPAIR CLINICOct. 16, Saturday: the first in a series ofrepair and maintenance clinics by ExtremeInterface, at Hilliers on Vancouver Island,BC. Designer-manufacturer Barry Bezairewill show kayakers how to look after anddo small repairs to their craft. Participantsmust bring their own boats. Advanceregistration is required at 250-752-8432.SPEEDSTROKE AT ATHENSSpeedStroke by KayakPro was chosenas the official kayaking ergometer to the2004 Athens Olympic Games. KayakProowner Grayson Bourne, five-time Olympianand World Champion sprint kayaker,says that “SpeedStroke offers every levelof paddler the ultimate in indoor kayaktraining.” Hailed by many Olympic andWorld Champions as the top kayakingergometer on the market, SpeedStrokegives the user the most precise kayakingsimulation available today. The newlyupgraded machine offers a downloadableprogram (available on the KayakProwebsite) that can be linked to Speedstroketo show a detailed graph displaying realtimedistance covered, speed, and time.Sports physiologists have discovered thatit is essential to replicate sports-specificmovements while training in the off-seasonto maintain performance levels. Speed-© David Wiwchar photoFirst Nations canoeists come ashore in Chemainus during Tribal Journeys 2004.Stroke gives this opportunity year round.Previously only available to top-levelathletes, SpeedStroke is now available forwidespread distribution in the US andabroad. www.kayakpro.com or www.speedstroke.com.ANTI-THRILL CRAFT CAMPAIGNRichard Roshon, a paddler who lives inLahaina, Maui, is working on a campaignto exclude ‘thrill craft’ (jet skis and parasailers)from the shallow protected offshorewaters of West and South Maui, the primemating area for North Pacific HumpbackWhales.He says: “With the introduction of thrillcraft, the offshore waters of Maui cameunder an everyday assault of continuousnoise and fuel pollution. Whales and othermarine mammals are 20 times as sensitiveto sound as humans. And the world’soceans are the largest echo chamber, wheresound travels 5 times farther than it doesin our atmosphere.” rroshon@gmail.com,www.hawaiiwhalesrus.com.TRIBAL JOURNEYS 2004Some 50 large native canoes fromthroughout BC and Washington State linedup along the Kulleet Bay beach on Wednesday,August 4th. Onboard the canoes,pullers represented all Pacific Northwesttribal groups, and numerous traditionalsongs were sung as the paddlers asked forpermission to land in Chemainus territory.Nuu-chah-nulth canoes started theirlong journey from Kyuquot, leaving theircommunity on July 17th, and meetingMowachaht / Muchalaht canoes in GoldRiver on July 18th. Those canoes then traveledto Hot Springs Cove, where Hesquiahtcanoes joined and paddled to Ahousahtand Tla-o-qui-aht territories where morejoined. They paddled into Port Albernion July 31st before trucking the canoesover to Comox for their journey downthe east coast of the island to Kulleet Bay.In Nanoose, canoes from the Nuu-chahnulthResidential School Project as well asthe Sna-naw-as and Snu-ney-muxw FirstNation joined the group, which paddledthrough rough seas into Nanaimo for a feastand campout on Newcastle Island.On the final day of the journey, thepullers battled their way through whirlpool-pockedDodd Narrows before joiningdozens of canoes from Washington Stateand the lower mainland on the final paddleinto Kulleet Bay.The line of 50 canoes circled single-filearound the bay, past hundreds of spectators,before approaching the shore andfollowing ancient protocols. Each canoeskipper spoke about where they came fromand the journey they had made, and askedpermission to come ashore into Chemainusterritory.Paddlers rested on Thursday, with hundredspitching tents on front yards andgrassy knolls around the Bay, enjoyinga feast put on by the Maakulshoot Nation.40 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

On Friday morning paddlers sang sunnysongs as they paddled into a downpour enroute to Ladysmith, where the townshipwas hosting its 100th anniversary celebrations.Canoes landed at Transfer Beach at 10am to the cheers of hundreds of rain-soakedresidents who had come down to welcomethe paddlers ashore.“The whole canoe journey has just beenunbelievable,” said Vina Robinson, organizerand paddler on the Nuu-chah-nulthHealing Project canoe. “For the past fiveyears we’ve talked about the role of the canoeas a metaphor for healing,” she said.“It was a spiritual healing. I could reallyfeel our ancestors with us,” said RosalieBrown from Tla-o-qui-aht. “We sang inrough times and we sang in happy times,and even though we were all from differentNations, we sang the same songs andour voices were one,” she said. “It wasfabulous.”On Sunday, after a weekend full of culturaldisplays and ceremonies, paddlerspacked up and headed back to their homecommunities, already planning for nextyear’s Tribal Journey event south of the borderto Lower Elwa (near Port Angeles).Thanks to David Wiwchar.ECO-NORTH CONFERENCENovember 24—27, 2004, ValhallaInn, Thunder Bay, Ontario. Sponsored byFedNor and supported by a consortiumof tourism and community organizations.Learn how to tap into Northern Ontario’snature-based tourism market. For fulldetails and to register today, visit www.eco-north2004.ca or call Pat Forrest, ProjectCoordinator toll free 1-888-259-9167or email info@eco-north2004eco-nord.ca.ANCIENT RAINFOREST-FREEWaveLength is one of a vanguard ofmagazine and book publishers that havemade a public commitment to conservingthe world’s ancient and endangeredforests through strategic purchasing anduse of environmentally friendly paper.These publishers have made a pledgeto use paper with as much post-consumerrecycled content and AncientForest Friendly tree fiber as possible.They are also looking at options such asagricultural residues such as wheat andflax straw as new technologies emerge.As major paper users, magazine publishersshare a responsibility and opportunityto minimize their impact on the globalenvironment. We all depend upon originalwild forests to regulate climate, purify ourwater, sustain wildlife, and provide thebiodiversity required by humans and natureto adapt to new conditions and challenges.Forest conservation requires the participationof all those who use forest productssuch as paper and wood.For more information on this AncientForest Friendly initiative, please go to www.marketsinitiative.org.EARTHDIVE INITIATIVESnorkellers and scuba divers across theglobe are being enlisted to help save theworld’s oceans and seas. A new initiative,called Earthdive, is being launched inwhich professional and amateur divers areurged to record the health of the marine environmentincluding coral reefs, mangroveswamps and coastal waters.The scheme is being supported by theUnited Nations Environment Programme(UNEP) through its World ConservationMonitoring Centre in Cambridge, England.The key feature centers on encouragingmembers to record findings from theirdives on the Earthdive website (www.earthdive.com). By doing this, they will becontributing scientific data on key indicatorspecies to build a Global Dive Log (GDL).This Global Dive Log is sponsored by thePeninsular and Oriental Steam NavigationCompany (P&O).Members also sign an internationalpetition, demanding action to protect theoceans, which will be delivered to theUnited Nations in 2005.PLASTIC POLLUTIONCheck out www.mindfully.org/Plastic/Ocean/Moore-Trashed-PacificNov03.htmfor new info on plastic polymers in theocean environment. It demonstrates to thenecessity of proper recycling and stronglitter enforcement laws internationally.Entanglement and indigestion are not theworst problems caused by the ubiquitousplastic pollution. Hideshige Takada, anenvironmental geochemist at Tokyo University,and his colleagues have discoveredthat floating plastic fragments accumulatehydrophobic—that is, non-water-soluble—toxicchemicals. Plastic polymers,it turns out, are sponges for DDT, PCBs,and other oily pollutants. The Japaneseinvestigators found that plastic resin pelletsconcentrate such poisons to levels ashigh as a million times their concentrationsin the water as free-floating substances.The potential scope of the problem isstaggering. Every year some 5.5 quadrillion(5.5 x 1015) plastic pellets—about250 billion pounds of them—are producedworldwide for use in the manufacture ofplastic products. When those pellets orproducts degrade, break into fragments,and disperse, the pieces may also becomeconcentrators and transporters of toxicchemicals in the marine environment. Thusan astronomical number of vectors forsome of the most toxic pollutants knownare being released into an ecosystem dominatedby the most efficient natural vacuumcleaners nature ever invented: the jelliesand salps living in the ocean. After thoseorganisms ingest the toxins, they are eatenin turn by fish, and so the poisons pass intothe food web that leads, in some cases, tohuman beings. Farmers can grow pesticide-freeorganic produce, but can naturestill produce a pollutant-free organic fish? ➝North Island Kayak Rentals & ToursTwo Locations:Telegraph Cove and thePort Hardy Adventure Center1-6 day Guided Trips & RentalsToll Free 877-949-7707nikayak@island.netwww.KayakBC.caOct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com41

POLLUTING GIANTS SUEDThe states of California, Connecticut,Iowa, New Jersey, New York, Rhode Island,Vermont and Wisconsin, along with theCity of New York, have filed suit againstthe five largest global warming pollutersin the United States. It is the first time USstate and local governments have suedprivate companies to require reductionsin the heat-trapping carbon dioxide emissionsthat scientists say pose serious threatsto our health, economy and environment.Companies sued in this action own oroperate 174 fossil fuel burning power plantsin 20 states that emit some 650 milliontons of carbon dioxide each year—almosta quarter of the US utility industry’s annualcarbon dioxide emissions and about 10percent of the nation’s total. The action callson the companies to reduce their pollution,and does not seek monetary damages.Readily available solutions to reducecarbon dioxide pollution include increasedefficiency of coal-burning plants; switchingfrom coal to cleaner-burning fuels;greater use of biomass energy derivedfrom plants; investment in energy conservation;and use of clean energy sourceslike wind and solar power. Cleaner coaltechnologies also are emerging that allowcarbon dioxide to be removed fromcoal-fired power plant smokestacks.Federal studies indicate that electricpower producers, the largest global warmingpolluters, present the best opportunityfor significant and cost-effective reductionsof carbon dioxide pollution. Scientists saythat since carbon dioxide accumulatesin the atmosphere, the longer the delaybefore significant cuts are made, thesharper and deeper they will need to be.CARDS FOR KAYAKERSEnvironmental Defense (www.environmentaldefense.org/action),has launchedan Undo Global Warming campaign. Theyhave produced a cool kayaking postcardwith a global warming educational message(“There are things we can’t undo.Global Warming we can.”) They’re tryingto identify kayak enthusiasts willing to putthese free postcards out to help spread theword. Take a look at a sample online: www.undoit.org/kayak. Thanks to Ben Smith.PRECAUTIONARY PRINCIPLEFor a great ‘primer’ on the precautionaryprinciple, see www.mindfully.org/Precaution/Precautionary-Myers-Raffensperger.htm. The Mindfully site is a great resourcefor all sorts of information: www.mindfully.org.WEST COAST EXPEDITIONSEducational Nature Tours since 1974Sea Kayaking in the Kyuquot Wilderness, BCwww.WestCoastExpeditions.comToll Free 800-665-3040• Basecamp comforts• Educational focus• Cultural contact• Family oriented• All-inclusiveKEEP OIL OUTThe Greater Victoria Harbour Authority,Georgia Strait Alliance, and the Sierra Clubof Canada (Victoria Group) have teamed upto help boaters keep the Victoria harbourclean. Together they have initiated a programto distribute packages of oil absorbentpads to boaters when they register for moorageat GVHA docks. The GVHA is pleasedand proud to provide significant financialsupport for this important harbour initiative.Called “Keeping Oil Out of our Harbour”the program is designed to reduce pollutionby oil and gas that is pumped into the harbouras boats pump their bilge water. Thepackages contain two oil absorbent padsand will be distributed by GVHA staff free ofcharge along with information on their use.“Georgia Strait Alliance’s Green BoatingProgram informs boaters about easy actionsthey can take to make a significantdifference in our impact on the Strait,”says Sarah Verstegen of GSA. “In thiscase we would like to be sure that boatersknow that the old trick of puttingdish soap on an oil or gas sheen makesthings worse, and that bilge oil pollutionis preventable. When boaters are aware,it’s easier for them to change their habits”.Dish soap contains surfactants. Surfactantslower the surface tension of the petroleumproducts which makes them seemto disappear. They actually sink, where theyaffect benthic invertebrates living in the harbour’ssea floor. They also attach to the gillsof fish and destroy their ability to breathe.Victoria Harbour is home to many speciesof wildlife including marine birdsand river otters. When seabirds come intocontact with even a drop of oil, it matstheir feathers and allows frigid seawater topenetrate the waterproof external feathers,causing death by hypothermia. Otters, too,depend on clean fur to keep them warmand dry.For more information contact Sarah at250-381-8321 or sarah@georgiastrait.org.PROTECT THE WHALESNatural Resources Defense Council(NRDC) has launched a campaign to protectthe world’s whales against the Navy’suse of dangerous mid-frequency sonar.New scientific evidence shows that intenseblasts of mid-frequency sonar, at 235decibels or more, can cause a whale’s organsto fatally hemorrhage. And a growingnumber of whale strandings and die-offs—from the Canary Islands to the Bahamas toJapan—have coincided with the military’suse of these high-intensity sonar systems.Please help put a stop to this senselesskilling by going to www.savebiogems.org/watchlist/takeaction.asp?camp=31&step=2&item=52240 right now and sendingthe Secretary of the Navy a messageurging him to take common-sense steps toprotect whales.A major victory for the whales camelast year when a federal court blocked theNavy’s global deployment of a different,long-range sonar system—called LFA—becauseits ear-splitting noise could threaten42 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

the very survival of endangered populationsof whales.Now the issue is the Navy’s mid-frequencysonar, which is a much more widely usedclass of systems for detecting submarines.There are very simple ways for the Navy toprotect whales that will not interfere withmilitary readiness.The International Whaling Commissionrecently declared that the evidence nowappears “overwhelming” that military sonaris causing mass strandings of whales.And the scientific journal Nature reportsthat mid-frequency sonar can cause gasbubbles to form in the blood vessels ofpanicked whales, tearing holes in theirinternal organs. Such injuries no doubtcause intense pain.Such suffering is avoidable—if the Navywould only take simple measures likeavoiding areas where whales are known tomigrate and raise their young. But the Navyis unlikely to take such steps unless it hearsan outcry from millions of Americans.Please send a message telling the Navy tostop needlessly harming and killing whales.BioGems: Saving Endangered WildPlaces, A project of the Natural ResourcesDefense Council: www.savebiogems.org.ACTION ALERT!The recent approval of the first salmonfarm on BC’s north coast has conservationgroups and fishing communitieson both sides of the Canada-US borderconcerned about impacts to wild salmon.The Coastal Alliance for AquacultureReform (CAAR) is calling on the federaland provincial governments to keep BC’snorth coast free of salmon farms. Sendan email to government officials and tellthem to stop this unsustainable industryfrom damaging more of BC’s coastline.See www.farmedanddangerous.org.GREENPEACE LEADS PROTESTGreenpeace activists, joined by FirstNations from Canada and Alaska, led aflotilla of protest boats through the BroughtonArchipelago in August demanding anend to open net-cage fish farm expansionalong the west coast of North America.“Alaska stands resolutely opposed to fishfarm operations, while British Columbiais expanding aquaculture toward Alaska,a reckless move that heedlessly threatenswild salmon stocks in both countries,”said Jeremy Paster of Greenpeace US.Greenpeace activists and First Nationsfrom Canada and the US laid a 20-metrefloating banner with the message “KeepIt Wild—No Fish Farms” next to fish farmpens in the Broughton Archipelago, one ofthe most besieged and concentrated areasof fish farms in the world.Native leaders are demanding the removalof all open net-cage fish farms intheir traditional territories in and aroundthe Broughton.In 2002, close to 4 million wild pinksalmon died after contracting lethal levelsof sea lice near fish farms in the Broughton—oneof the largest collapses of a fisheryin BC’s history, as noted by respectedsources like the Pacific Fisheries ResourceConservation Council. At the end of Aprilof this year, juvenile pinks were seen withdeadly numbers of sea lice, higher than in2002. Many of these tiny fish had more than60 lice on them.“What’s happening in the Broughton—theeradication of a major wild salmon run—isbound to happen on the north coast towardAlaska where the BC and federal governmentsare now expanding fish farms,” saidCatherine Stewart, Greenpeace Canada’swestcoast campaigner.Official applications have been made forSUBSCRIBE TO WAVELENGTHOR RENEW YOUR SUBSCRIPTIONand you will be entered in a draw for aSRS ‘Shark’ Wing PaddleWinner of the Navarro Jacket and Pants set wasValerie Van Veen of White Rock, BC. Congratulations!three sites on BC’s north coast. One nearthe Alaskan border at Anger Anchorage hasbeen approved, and the others, at PetrelPoint and Azimuth Island, are pendingreview by the Canadian EnvironmentalAssessment Act. For info see www.farmedanddangerous.org.COUSTEAU SPEAKS OUTRenowned underwater explorer andfilmmaker Jean-Michel Cousteau says BCsalmon are among the most importantstocks worldwide and has called on FisheriesMinister Geoff Regan to move quicklyto protect pink salmon that in the past fouryears have been devastated by outbreaksof sea lice in an area with an abundanceof salmon farms.To obtain a copy of Mr. Cousteau’s letterto Minister Regan, please contact LynnHunter at hunterlynn@shaw.ca or 250-479-0937. ❏Win a feather-light, 5-piece,carbon fibre wing paddle fromSimon River Sports.$495 Cdn/$360 US1 entry for 1 year sub2 entries for 2 year subDEADLINE: Jan 15, 2005.www.simonriversports.comSubscriptions: $15/yr or $25/2 yrs in North America (Canadians add GST)To start your sub today call 1-800-799-5602Clip or photocopy this form—or subscribe on-line at WaveLengthMagazine.com—and mail with a check to: WaveLength Magazine, 2735 North Road, Gabriola Island,BC Canada V0R 1X7. Subscription information is protected by our privacy policy.NAME__________________________________________________________ADDRESS______________________________________________________PROV/STATE_________________ POSTAL/ZIP CODE __________________$15—1 YR (6 ISSUES) $25—2 YRS (12 ISSUES) *CANADIANS ADD GSTGIFT SUBSCRIPTION: “From ____________________________________________________”Print your name here if you wish us to send a GIFT CARD to your friend or relative.AS04Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com43

Ph/Fax: 250-539-5553RENTALS, TOURS, LESSONSrbruce@gulfislands.com121 Boot Cove Rd.Saturna Island, BC V0N 2Y0Eco-Adventures in Costa Rica & BC’s beautifulGulf Islands since 1991. Spectacular scenery,bird/wildlife watching, hotsprings, waterfalls...Customized itineraries offer kayaking, sailing,hiking, climbing, snorkeling, surfing... B&B/CottageGetaways on charismatic Salt Spring Island.1-888-529-2567 or 250-537-2553www.islandescapades.com escapades@saltspring.comAWESOME KAYAKING—FREE CAMPINGWe Simply Offer a Better Experience!!Excellent equipment, superior servicesince 1991. Sechelt, BC(at Tillicum Bay Marina).SEA KAYAK & CANOE RENTALS, SALES, LESSONS, TOURSinfo@pedalspaddles.com www.pedalspaddles.comBOOK AHEAD: 1-866-885-6440 or (604)885-6440BED & BREAKFAST ON THE BEACHGabriolaʼs south coast paradise.Beachfront. Wildlife. Hot tub.Gabriola Island, BC• KAYAK RENTALS •Ph/Fax: 250/247-9824www.island.net/~casablanCATALA KAYAKINGLocated “on the bay” in Port Hardy BCToll Free 800-515-5511Rentals & TransportationBed & Breakfastwww.catalacharters.netinfo@catalacharters.netDenman HornbyCanoes and Kayaks Ltd.FamilyOriented B&BDiscover awesome scenery and why this area isso safe for the beginner paddler. Take day tripsfrom here, use us for a base to go camping orpaddle right up. Lessons, Tours, Rentals.Please call 250-335-0079www.DenmanPaddling.caNever lift those boats again!www.tonystrailers.comSouthern ExposureAbel Tasman National Park specialists,NEW ZEALAND. Sea Kayak, GuidedTours, Rentals, Backpackers, Water Taxi.Sandy Bay, RD2, Motueka, 7160, NZ.info@southern-exposure.co.nzwww.southern-exposure.co.nzEcotourism TrainingNatural and Cultural HistoryEco Interpretation CertificateFront Line Skills & KnowledgeSoft Adventure Site DevelopmentBold Point Centre, Quadra Island, BCbpc@connected.bc.ca 250 285-2272If youʼre planning a paddling trip nearNorthern Vancouver Island or theCentral Coast, RENT from us.ODYSSEY KAYAKING LTD.Toll free 1-888-792-3366250-902-0565odyssey@island.netwww.odysseykayaking.comCairns Bay B&BBeach • Kayaking • Hot tub • ViewThe Sunshine Coast—Sechelt, BCwww.cairnsbay.com604 885-8896vclarke@telus.netYour home basefor ExceptionalGULF ISLANDSPaddling!Kayak Rentals, Lessons and Guided Tours.Accommodation/Kayaking packages available.www.bluevistaresort.com1-877-535-2424SOUTHEAST EXPOSUREKetchikan, Alaska6 Day Guided TripsMisty Fjords National Monument907-225-8829www.southeastexposure.comMAYNE ISLAND KAYAK & CANOE RENTALS INC.KAYAKING AT ITS BEST!Rentals/Marine Tours/Lessons/Sales/BicyclesComplimentary Ferry pick-up. Open year round.A variety of accommodations available.C-54 Miners Bay, Mayne Island, BCCanada V0N 2J0Tel/Fax: 250 539-5599maynekayak@gulfislands.comwww.maynekayak.cominfo@queencharlottekayaking.comwww.queencharlottekayaking.com44 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

1-800-889-7644VARGAS ISLAND INNAffordable Wilderness Resort accommodation inClayoquot Sound on Vargas Island beachfront.• 5k N.W. Tofino • Ideal for kayakers • Inn &cabins • All self-catering • Passenger & kayaktransport from Tofino available • Lots to do!CALL 250-725-3309NEW ZEALANDSeakayak & Cycle Tours & RentalsNatural High, Adrenalin DealersWWW.SeakayakNewZealand.comWWW.CycleNewZealand.comadventure@natural-high.co.nz64-3-546693664-3-5466954 faxWhitewater Kayak! ToursChilliwack River Rafting. No experiencenecessary. Inflatable kayaks on class2 to 3. Easy skills transfer from Oceankayaking. Daily departures.Call 1-800-410-7238www.dowco.com/chilliwackraftingAboriginal Orca Adventureswith Village Island ToursAll-inclusive multi-day trips• Experience native culture• Sleep in a native big house• Enjoy seafood feasts & hot showers• Paddle with orcas• Whale encounters guaranteedwww.villageisland.com1-877-282-8294FOR SALEMust sell 2 VCP Skerray kayaks,17’-23” beam, deck lines,forward and aft hatch, day hatch,built-in pump and compass.$1750 and $1950, both like new.Everett, Wa. 425-349-4441FOR SALESeaward Navigator (2001) KevlarKayak: $2995. Also fitted sprayskirt,touring clothing, wetsuit, dry bags.Call for pricing. Mike Slade:604-294-0223 weekdays.Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.comNORTH ISLAND KAYAKPort Hardy & Telegraph CoveRentals & 1–6 Day Guided TripsToll Free 1-877-949-7707www.KayakBC.canikayak@island.netBaja Sea Kayak Adventureswith Nahanni Wilderness AdventuresExplore Bajaʼs beautiful desertislands in the Sea of Cortez.Local guides/interpreters.Based at Villas de Loreto.Call Toll Free: (ph/fax)1-888-897-5223Email: adventures@nahanniwild.comWebsite: www.nahanniwild.comSea kayak trips amid tropicalcoral reefs & white sand beachesof a Caribbean wilderness isle.Tel: 831-786-0406wpi@vena.comwww.westpeakinn.comEverything you need forSea Kayaking BajaCome stay in our Mexican waterfrontresort. English spoken. Swimmingpool. Restaurant. Great paddling atyour doorstep!Ph: 011-52-613-135-0586www.villasdeloreto.comGALIANO ISLAND KAYAKINGBC’S BEST SPRING KAYAKING.Daily Guided Tours.Costa Rica Sea Kayaking since 1987.Ph/Fax: 250-539-2442kayak@gulfislands.comwww.seakayak.caSALTSPRING KAYAK & CYCLE• Tours • Rentals • SalesLocated on the wharf at Fulford Harbournext to the ferry terminal. Walk off theferry and step into a kayak or rental bike!Toll Free: 866-341-0007“Gateway to the Southern Marine Parks”sskayak@saltspring.com www.saltspringkayaking.comSea Kayak GuidesAlliance of BCwww.skgabc.comFall Guides ExchangeOctober 1-2, 2004Miracle BeachWWW. AGM SKGABC.COMOct 3, Royston2004-05 ASSISTANT GUIDEand LEAD GUIDE EXAMSPlease check www.skgabcfor updates.The Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BCis a non-profit society which upholdshigh standards for professional sea kayakguides and operators in BC. Throughon-going professional development andcertification, the Alliance strives to ensuresafe practices on an industry-wide basis.SKGABC EXECUTIVEPRESIDENTBlake Johnson: blake@batstar.comVICE PRESIDENTKerry Orchard: kolokayaks@shaw.caIan Ross: ikross@telus.netSECRETARY/TREASURERTracy Morben: majestic@island.netCOORDINATING DIRECTORSue Handel: sue_handel@yahoo.caMEMBERS AT LARGEChris Sanderson: csanders@telus.netAndrew Jones: andrew.jones@kingfisheradventures.comMatt Bowes: mathewbowes71@yahoo.caSKGABC MembershipTo become a member of the Alliance, mailthis form and a cheque to the address below.___ Company Membership—$100/year___ Individual Membership—$35/year___ Associate Membership—$25/yearName__________________________Address______________________________________________________Phone_________________________Email__________________________Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BCP.O. Box 1005, Station A,Nanaimo BC, V9R 5Z2info@skgabc.com45

The December-January issueof WaveLength will feature‘WHAT’S NEW IN PADDLING?’Available December 1stWe’ll look at new kayaks, new gear,new services, new destinations,new courses, events and races,new books and videos, and more.Companies should contact us nowto be included in our specialGear & Gadgets section.Commercial listings are alsoavailable in our on-line‘What’s New Directory’.DEADLINE: October 20thThe following issue,‘Cruising With Kayaks’will hit the streets Feb. 1st,focusing on mothership paddling.DEADLINE December 20th.For WaveLength ads, subs,or bulk orders: 1-800-799-5602Info@WaveLengthMagazine.com46 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004

Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com47

48 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com Oct/Nov 2004